ISSUE 26 | NOVEMBER 2011 SCOTTISH EDITION | FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
W IN A MICHE L
STARRE IN D ESCAPE
Valentine Warner gets passionate in the kitchen
GINO D’ACAMPO Try his Italian baking secrets
40 RECIPES and top chefs Aggie MacKenzie Lorraine Pascale Angela Hartnett Sophie Grigson Dominic Jack
MICHELIN STARS • CHRISTMAS GETAWAYS • COOKING WITH KIDS
Shining stars Published by the Media Company Publications Ltd 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh EH3 6TL Tel: 0131 226 7766 Fax: 0131 225 4567 www.foodiesmagazine.com
EDITORIAL Editor Sue Hitchen Design Nicola Flynn Digital Imaging Malcolm Irving Production Editor Caroline Whitham Production Nicola Flynn
ADVERTISING Sales Manager Bill Mackay Liam Johnston Business Development Matthew Magee Liam Johnston Liam Johnston Liam Johnston Liam Johnston Liam Johnston
Front cover image from The Good Table by Valentine Warner, Mitchell Beazley, £25
ichelin fever has come early, with the early publication of the Great Britain and Ireland guide, and there are three new glittering stars in the Scottish constellation. Castle Terrace in Edinburgh, A MICH Glenapp Castle in Ayrshire and Martin Wishart at EL STARRE INLoch Lomond all picked up that all-important mark SCOTTISD H of quality, along with the acclaim and additional BREAK income that usually goes along with it. To celebrate the new stars, we’ve teamed up with two of them to bring you the best of Scottish cooking. Dominic Jack, chef-patron of Castle Terrace, has shared a delicious crab recipe, while Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond has teamed up with Cameron House to offer one lucky reader and a friend the chance to experience Michelin magic for themselves. Turn to page 16 to find out how you can win this great prize. We also have deliciously spiced dishes from Sophie Grigson, favourites from Valentine Warner, Italian home baking with Gino D’Acampo and How Clean is Your House’s Aggie MacKenzie putting away the feather duster to share her other passion – cooking. So whether you’re a galloping gourmet or a kitchen goddess, we have something for everyone to love in this issue. Sue Hitchen, Editor
Gino D’Acampo is the master of modern Italian cooking. He regularly appears on TV and is resident on ITV’s This Morning.
Aggie MacKenzie is the star of How Clean is Your House? and the former head of the Good Housekeeping Institute.
Lorraine Pascale Lorraine Pascale is a supermodel turned patisserie chef, and is the presenter of Home Cooking Made Easy.
Valentine Warner trained in top London restaurants before setting up his own catering company. He presents a number of BBC TV series. foodies | 3
MICHELIN STARS 10 A round up of all Scotland’s newest stars as well as some old favourites. Plus, try Dominic Jack’s crab recipe WIN A MICHELIN GETAWAY 16 A chance to stay at Cameron House and eat at Michelin-starred Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond
BOOKS, TV AND EVENTS
VALENTINE WARNER 23 His passion for seasonal ingredients SOPHIE GRIGSON 28 Spicing up some favourite dishes GINO D’ACAMPO 34 Indulging in his beloved Italian baking AGGIE MACKENZIE 40 The How Clean is Your House? guru is also a whizz in the kitchen
GLUTEN-FREE CAKES 45 Enjoy delicate lemon butterfly cakes IN SEASON: TRUFFLES 46 The Perthshire school that struck white gold in its vegetable patch COOKING WITH KIDS 50 Bonfire Night recipes from Lorraine Pascale, Levi Roots and Edd Kimber
EN COCOTTE Little pots with big flavour
KITCHEN DESIGN 58 Vintage styling creates character REVIEW: STOBO CASTLE
REVIEW: CAFÉ FISH
69 foodies | 5
DRINKS & RESTAURANT NEWS 71 CHRISTMAS GETAWAYS
TRAVEL: HERMITAGE HOTEL
RECIPES LIGHT BITES Pheasant terrine Pumpkin and walnut bread Quatro staggione pizza Eggy bread with fudgy plums Brioche with camembert
33 35 37 43 55
MEAT Quails with fino and ham Red cooked lamb Truffle and madeira sauce Hoppinâ€™ toad-in-the-hole Duck with lemon and sage
23 25 48 53 56
VEGETARIAN Winter squash salad with mint Chestnut and truffle risotto
FISH & SEAFOOD Crab in shell Tuna tostada
DESSERTS & BAKING Orange pudding Panna cotta with amaretto No-Fuss Queen of Puddings Gluten-free butterfly cakes Nutella and banana bites Grafitti cake Totally chocolate
27 39 43 45 50 51 56
DRINKS & COCKTAILS Blue blazer Old-fashioned Smoky martini Disaronno stardust Mint 500
65 67 67 71 73
LOG ON TO WWW.FOODIES-MAGAZINE.COM FOR MORE NEWS AND RECIPES 6 | foodies
They’ve cracked it Young science students from Sherborne Girls in Dorset have discovered what makes the perfect boiled egg and soldiers – and the secret is to cook the egg for six minutes and use margarine instead of butter for stronger soldiers. Led by Professor Hal Sosabowski of Brighton University, a team of twelve girls conducted the experiment. It remains to be seen whether the nation is ready to change from the traditional four-minute egg. www.sherborne.com
MEET THE CO-OP
Celtic champion Chef-patron of Edinburgh’s Ondine, Roy Brett has triumphed in the first annual Celtic Cook-Off competition. The chef, who specialises in sustainable seafood, picked up the prize at the Taste of West Cork festival in Ireland. He faced off against chefs from Wales, Ireland, the Isle of Man, Cornwall and Brittany, with his hot seafood platter impressing the judges. www.ondinerestaurant.co.uk
No, not the supermarket, we’re talking about the Dunbar Community Bakery, a local cooperative that came together to fill the need for fresh bread on the town’s high street. Go to thebakerydunbar.org to find out how to get involved.
Fairly good If you love chocolate but want to make sure no one is unfairly treated in its production, you could try Organic Seed & Bean. The company has just become the only UK chocolate company to be awarded 100% ethical status by The Good Shopping Guide, adding to its two Great Taste Awards. www.seedandbean.co.uk
Relish the challenge The winners of the Hairy Bikers’ Cook Off, in which British families went head to head to find the best family cooks, have created their own range of relishes. The Raman family, headed by Priya and Geetha, used their traditional skills combined with a modern approach to make the six relishes, which include exotic Aubergine, tangy Apple & Carrot and rich Beetroot. www.ramans.co.uk
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FOODIE FOCUS MICHELIN STARS
Three more Scottish restaurants can count themselves amongst the prestigious ranks of the Michelin stars this year. Words Rachael McConnell
From top: Kinloch Lodge, Gleneagles, Glenapp Castle
cotland can now add a few more shiny stars to its Michelin galaxy with the release of the Michelin Restaurant Guide to Great Britain and Ireland 2012. This year the guide’s publication was brought forward to the start of October to bring it in line with Michelin’s other European guides. Scotland’s newest dazzlers are Glenapp Castle, Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond and Castle Terrace in Edinburgh, each gaining one star. The east of the country still leads the way, specifically the Edinburgh area. Last year’s new stars Kinloch Lodge, The Peat Inn and 21212 all retained their stars, while Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles retains its two stars. Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles It comes as no surprise that the menu at this two-starred Michelin restaurant is French with a Scottish twist, considering chef Andrew Fairlie trained in south-west France. Boasting a signature dish of Scottish lobster smoked over old whisky barrels and a seasonal Menu Du Marché foodies | 11
FOODIE FOCUS MICHELIN STARS
with poached quince and toffee apple ice cream, the restaurant is far from overshadowed by its stunning setting. Tel: 01764 662231 www.gleneagles.com Glenapp Castle, Ballantrae, South Ayrshire Head Chef Adam Stokes runs the restaurant at the sumptuous Glenapp Castle Hotel. Lovely views over Ailsa Craig and the Ayrshire coastline accompany your roast scallops with crackling and Ayrshire lamb with Scottish girolles. Tel: 01465 831212 www.glenappcastle.com Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond, Cameron House, Balloch Head Chef Stewart Boyles leads the team at Martin Wishart’s lochside restaurant, serving up seasonal, modern menus that showcase ingredients such as braised cheek of Ross-shire beef, and the signature dish of haggis bon bons. Tel: 01389 722504 www.martinwishartlochlomond.co.uk Castle Terrace, Edinburgh Castle Terrace offers a tantalising menu based on a mixture of modern British cuisine with the French cooking techniques of Chef Patron Dominic Jack. The result is spelt risotto with crispy ox tongue and veal heart confit and stuffed saddle of lamb à la rogonnade. Tel: 0131 229 1222 www.castleterracerestaurant.com 12 | foodies
Sangster’s, Elie, Fife Bruce and Jackie Sangster's intimate restaurant prides itself on its homely atmosphere and outstanding seasonal food. Bruce aims to satisfy every taste with his crispy quail eggs and black pudding crumble and seared monkfish with butterbean, basil and tomato stew. Tel: 01333 331001 www.sangsters.co.uk
Castle Terrace, Sangster’s, Kinloch, Martin Wishart, Glenapp
Kinloch Lodge, Isle of Skye This seventeenth-century hunting lodge is the backdrop for Head Chef Marcello Tully's island-inspired menu of organic salmon with caramelised banana, or Mallaig hake, courgette rösti, roast cherry tomatoes and Drumfean mussels. Lady Claire Macdonald’s unique luxury hotel is an antique-filled retreat. Tel: 01471 833214 www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk ●
Try Dominic Jack of Castle Terrace’s crab recipe overleaf, win a trip to Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond on page 16, and look out for more stars next month.
RECIPE OF THE MONTH DOMINIC JACK
CRAB IN THE SHELL Freshly picked brown crab from Singal’s Cave served with hazelnut, apple and lilliput capers.
DOMINIC JACK CASTLE TERRACE 33-35 Castle Terrace Edinburgh EH1 2EL Tel: 0131 229 1222 www.castleterrace restaurant.com Dominic Jack, chef-patron of the newly Michelinstarred Castle Terrace, honed his skills at Gleneagles before moving to Paris at 21 to work at three-Michelinstarred l’Arpège. He returned to Edinburgh in 2008 to work alongside his friend Tom Kitchin at The Kitchin, before opening Castle Terrace.
Per person 1 brown crab 1 Granny Smith apple 1 red pepper 10 hazelnuts 20g Lilliput capers 10g chives 20g rocket 1 red pepper Vegetable oil Homemade hazelnut mayonnaise (see www.foodies-magazine.com for recipe) ● To cook the crab, bring a pot of salted water to the boil and place the crab into the pot. Bring back to the boil and remove from the heat. Allow to cool. Remove the crab from the water and crack open the shell, taking the crab meat out. Pick through the meat to check for crab shell. ● To cook the red pepper, place it on a
tray and lightly cover with vegetable oil. Cover the whole tray with tin foil and place in a pre-heated oven at 180ºC for approximately 30 minutes. Take out of the oven, place in a bowl and cover with cling film. Leave for approximately 20 minutes. Peel the skin and remove the seeds, then cut into 3cm stripes. ● Roast the hazelnuts in a pre-heated oven at 180ºC for approximately 10 minutes. Roll the hazelnuts inside a dry cloth to remove the skins. Chop half the hazelnuts into quarters and dice the other half. ● Cut half an apple into batons and dice the other half. Mix the crab, chives, mayonnaise and chopped hazelnuts together, season to taste. Spoon on to the plate and place the apple batons on the top, with the red pepper, capers and hazelnuts. Finally garnish with some rocket leaves.
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CO M PE TI TI O N
WIN a Michelin-starred dining experience at Cameron House
o celebrate the award of a coveted Michelin Star to its in-house fine dining restaurant, Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond, Cameron House has teamed up with Foodies magazine and Martin Wishart to offer one lucky reader an overnight stay for two with dinner in one of Scotland’s newest Michelinstarred restaurants. Luxury five-star Cameron House Resort on the banks of Loch Lomond has been home to Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond for three years and is celebrating its recent recognition in the Michelin Guide 2011. The lucky winner and their friend will sample seasonal dishes such as Orkney scallop baked in the shell, wild mushroom, bellota ham, truffle sauce and fillet of scrabster halibut, pomme boulangère, spinach,
white turnip, red wine sauce created by talented head chef Stewart Boyles in partnership with Wishart. For those not lucky enough to win, Cameron House is offering two nights’ bed and breakfast in a loch view room, with a three course a la carte dinner on the first night in Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond. The break also includes dinner on the second evening in a resort restaurant and full Scottish breakfast each morning. Prices start from £568 per room, available until the end of November 2011. Offer excludes Mondays and Tuesdays. ●
To book please telephone Cameron House on 0845 375 2808 quoting ref MWP. www.cameronhouse.co.uk www.martin-wishart.co.uk
TO ENTER: For your chance to win this great prize, simply answer the following question:
Beside which loch would you find Cameron House? Send your answer and contact details on a postcard to Foodies, 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh EH3 6TL, email firstname.lastname@example.org or enter online at www.foodiesmagazine.com
Terms and conditions: The winner will be the first correct entry drawn on 1st December 20111. The prize is subject to availability, excludes Monday and Tuesdays and holiday periods. Prize must be booked in advance and taken before June 2012. There is no cash alternative and the editor’s decision is final. 16 | foodies
Italian Cooking In The Bag, £20, Jamie At Home, michelleliston @btinternet.com
Marmite Teapot, £12, Tesco, www.tesco.com
Bring a bit of fun into the kitchen with these quirky ideas that will always raise a smile
The Kuhn Rikon Ulu knife, £8.95 small, £11.95 large www.kuhnrikon.co.uk Koziol Luigi Spoon Rest, £18.50, Red Candy, www.redcandy.co.uk
Birdhouse Egg Timers, £8.75 each, Berry Red, www.berryred.co.uk
Lunch Bunch Box, £9.25, Jamie At Home, michelleliston @btinternet.com
Vintage Pool Drinks Set, £35, The Old Cinema, www.theold cinema.co.uk
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BOOKS, TV AND WHAT’S ON
COOKING THE BOOKS La Famiglia Alvaro Maccioni, Palazzo Editions, £25 Owner of the celebrated La Famiglia restaurant in Chelsea, Alvaro Maccioni shares the authentic Tuscan recipes that his family enjoyed when he was growing up. Flash Cooking Laura Santtini, Quadrille, £20 Doyenne of flavour Laura Santtini encourages us to think about food in a new, healthier way, without compromising on taste or spending ages in the kitchen. Cook with Kids Rob Kirby, Absolute Press, £9.99 With all the proceeds going to Great Ormond Street Hospital, this fun cookbook will get the kids into the kitchen and also help out a good cause.
Party on Tis the season to start planning those festive parties, and thankfully the Good Food Channel have come up with a series showing you how to (and maybe how not to) achieve the perfect knees-up. A Very British Party – made by Firecracker Films, the makers of Big Fat Gypsy Weddings –follows people from different cultures, races and religions as they throw the ultimate party – from the planning stages right through to the event itself. 10pm Tuesdays from 1st November, Good Food Channel
WHAT’S ON SHETLAND FOOD FESTIVAL 5 November, Lerwick Shetland showcases some of its wonderful food – exceptional lamb, fine beef, superbly fresh fish and shellfish and some more unusual specialities such as seawater oatcakes, Shetland Black potatoes and moreish fudge! Highlights include cookery demonstrations with Neil Forbes (Scottish Chef of the Year) and a chance to make your own cheese for Christmas. www.shetlandfoodfestival.co.uk
20 | foodies
COUNTRY LIVING CHRISTMAS FAIR 17 November, Glasgow Homewares and kitchen products with that rustic touch will be on offer from Country Living magazine’s annual Christmas Fair at the SECC, Glasgow. Food and drink will also be available to buy for the gourmet in your life. Visitors to Foodies Festivals will be pleased to see regular exhibitors Garlic Twist, Debbie & Andrews Sausages, Holly Cupcakes, Gift of Oil and Spencerfield Spirit Co. www.countrylivingfair.com
DRAMBUSTERS WHISKY FESTIVAL 26 November, Dumfries A grand day out for whisky lovers, as Drambusters offers visitors the chance to meet around 20 distilleries and to try different malts from each. There will be masterclasses from Glen Garioch and Springbank, and the £16 entry price includes a dramming glass. Other exhibitors include Douglas Laing & Co, Ardbeg, Glenmorangie and Glengoyne. www.drambusters.com
MEET THE CHEF VALENTINE WARNER
Falling in love again TV chef and dedicated foodie Valentine Warner is back in the kitchen and continuing his passionate affair with seasonal food
like my food to have a sense of its roots, a kind of doffing of the hat to all that came before. I prefer my steak and onion pudding to be served with violent English mustard, and my lapin a la moutarde with a bronchial-clearing Dijon. Call me boring, but I don’t want mango in a crumble. Mixed with condensed milk and ice, it teleports me straight to Delhi. The rhythms of nature, too, dictate my menu, and it is precisely because the pigeon likes to raid the pea plant or the blackcurrant bush that these ingredients sit cheerily alongside one another on a plate. Cooking like this also helps to build a food logic, a language of the cuisine with which you have decided to engage. An egg pickled in balsamic vinegar would be a wrong turn – show me an Italian pub. This idea of geography, people and produce brings into play the enjoyable pursuit of cooking and eating seasonally. Sometimes I can’t resist reaching for a pineapple, aubergine or chipotle chilli, but on the whole eating this way is a gentle dictatorship I happily follow. Autumn and winter are for the friendship of roots, the iron strike of brassicas and fresh shellfish. A berry pavlova in December is as unwanted to me as a suet pudding in summer. Greeting produce seasonally not only makes the year a succession of 22 | foodies
Valentine hopes to revive the fashion for eating seasonally
treats but feeds us the very things we need according to the time of year and subsequent climate. Lots of foods have vanished since World War II and the geared-up mechanisation of food production, and this is a shame, as many of them are cheap and certainly delicious. Maybe 15 long years of rationing saw to it that rabbit stew or turnips became associated with hard times, and the need to banish difficult memories bred a picky dislike that was inherited by the next generation. Personally, I love the calming smell of rabbit stew. Take the quince, for example. It cannot be grabbed from the barrow, tossed in the
On the whole, eating with the seasons is a happily follow gentle dictatorship I
Try Valentine’s recipes opposite & overleaf
air and then crunched with a big, juicy bite. No, it is obstinate and hard, its juice withering the mouth dry, and it requires cooking. Once tackled, though, its secret is unlocked. There, bathed in a deep bronze syrup, is a joyous fruit quite unlike anything a cooked apple or pear can confess. It’s not a convenient ingredient, but what’s the rush? ●
RECIPES VALENTINE WARNER
QUAILS WITH FINO & HAM
From The Good Table by Valentine Warner, Mitchell Beazley, £25
Serves 3-6 6 quails 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for oiling Flaked sea salt Cloves from 1⁄2 garlic bulb, peeled 100g jamón (Spanish ham), roughly chopped into 1cm-wide ribbons 1 medium onion, finely sliced 4 bay leaves 1 heaped tsp plain flour 250ml fino sherry 2 tbsp roughly chopped Flat-leaf parsley
● Preheat the oven to 200°C. Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut out the spines of the quails by holding each one cupped in one hand with the back up. ● Put each quail breast-side up on a chopping board. Put the heel of your hand on the breastbone and squash the bird flat. You should hear the breastbone break. Make sure the quails are dry; if not, wipe off any moisture with kitchen paper. Rub the birds with a little oil and season with salt. ● In a shallow metal casserole or an ovenproof frying pan that can borrow a lid, sear the oiled quails over a mediumhigh heat, browning them all over. This will take around 4 minutes. Do not cook them for too long – this stage should be brief if the pan is hot enough. Remove the birds from the pan to a large plate. In the same cooking vessel, fry the garlic cloves with the jamón in most of the oil over a medium-high heat until nicely coloured (about 2-3 minutes). Add the onion and bay leaves, then cook for another 7 minutes or so, stirring regularly, until softened (but the onions should not colour). Scatter over the flour and stir it into the onions for 30 seconds or so, to cook out the raw taste. ● Add the remaining oil to the casserole or pan then return the quails to it. Stand back and add the fino. If you are cooking with a gas hob, it is easy to flame them as you do this: tip the pan towards the gas and, as the vapours ignite, swirl the flame around the pan until the fire goes out (but flaming isn’t necessary). Immediately transfer the cooking vessel to the oven for 12 minutes. When it is cooked, remove the birds briefly from the pan. Swirl the sauce to make sure the flour thickens it properly and scatter in the parsley. Put the birds back and serve in the middle of the table, straight from the pan, perhaps with some good bread or sautéed potatoes.
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RECIPES VALENTINE WARNER
TUNA TOSTADA Serves 6 1 large ripe Hass avocado, stoned, peeled and roughly diced Juice of 1 lime Small handful coriander leaves, chopped, plus extra to serve Flaked sea salt 6 large or 12 small corn tortillas, for frying Sunflower oil, for frying 1 medium red onion, halved and very finely sliced 300g very fresh sustainable yellow fin tuna (in a block, not cut into steaks) Small pinch dried oregano
● First make the chipotle mayonnaise. Cut the stalk from the chillies, then open them up and de-seed. Pour over enough boiled water to cover them and leave to rehydrate for at least an hour or two. ● Discard the water and use a blender to purée them finely with the vinegar, tomato purée, cumin and mayonnaise. The cumin should only be the faintest suggestion and not overwhelming. ● Mash the avocado with the lime juice and most of the coriander, then season well with salt and leave to one side. Trim the tortillas, cutting around a template so that they are about 8cm in diameter. This seems a wasteful shame, but they are better served small and snack-like. You can use the trimmings to thicken Mexican soups, or deep-fry them and serve with guacamole. ● Heat a pan filled with 5cm oil to 180°C (do not allow the oil to overheat). Fry the tortillas in it for about 40 seconds on each side until they are a rich gold, then
drain on kitchen paper. Your fried tortilla is now a tostada. Carefully fry the onion slices in the oil for 6 minutes, stirring every now and again, until they are golden brown all over. Transfer them quickly to some kitchen paper to drain. ● Slice the tuna thinly (about 3mm) across the grain of the meat, as you would a fillet of beef. ● Take six plates and lay two tostadas on each one. Smear a good dessertspoon of the avocado mixture evenly over each tostada. Lay three or four slices of tuna on top, slightly overlapping the pieces. Season the raw tuna with a good pinch of salt. Artfully dribble a couple of teaspoons of the chipotle mayonnaise over the fish. Sprinkle over some of the crispy onions followed by a tiny pinch of dried oregano. Finish with a few pert coriander leaves. Remember that every bite should be the sum of all parts. ● Eat immediately with a bottle of ice-cold beer
For the chipotle mayonnaise 4 chipotle chillies (smoked jalapeños) 2 good tsp tomato purée Generous pinch ground cumin 1 tsp cider vinegar 2 generous tbsp mayonnaise
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RECIPES VALENTINE WARNER
ORANGE PUDDING Serves 6-8 2 small unwaxed oranges 225g butter, plus extra for greasing 125g dark muscovado sugar 100g caster sugar 265g self-raising flour 4 large free-range eggs 100g walnut halves, roughly broken Double cream, for serving 2 small oranges, skins left on, finely sliced
Butter a 1.7-litre pudding basin and line the base with a small circle of baking paper. ● Finely grate the zest from one of the oranges. Slice one end off each orange and place on a chopping board, flat-side-down. Using a small knife, cut off the peel and pith all the way round. Next, cut between the membranes to release the segments. Cut each into three pieces and put in a sieve over a bowl to drain off the juice. ● Put the butter, sugars, flour, eggs and orange zest in a food processor. Blitz on the pulse setting until smooth and thick. You may need to remove the lid and push the mixture down a couple of times with a spatula. ● Transfer to a large mixing bowl. Stir in the broken walnuts and reserved orange segments until thoroughly mixed. Drink any juice from the bowl. Choose the best slices of the softened orange and arrange around the inside of the pudding basin. ● Spoon the batter into the prepared basin and smooth over the surface. Cover the dish with a large circle of baking paper, with a pleat in the middle to allow for expansion. Cover the paper with a circle of foil, again with a pleat. Tie both tightly in place with string. Create a handle by taking the excess string across the top of the basin and tying to the string on the other side – this will help you lift the pudding once it’s cooked. ● Place the basin on an upturned heatproof saucer or small trivet in a large, deep saucepan and add enough just-boiled water to come halfway up the side of the basin. (Alternatively, cook in a hob-top steamer.) Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and place
over a medium heat. Allow to steam in simmering water for 2 hours, adding more water if necessary. ● When the pudding is done, turn off the heat and carefully lift the basin from the water. Stand for 5 minutes. Reheat the sauce if necessary. ● Cut the string, foil and paper off the basin. Loosen the side of the pudding with a roundended knife and invert on to a deep plate. Remove the lining paper. Serve in generous wedges with butterscotch. foodies | 27
MEET THE CHEF SOPHIE GRIGSON
All spiced up Autumn is the time of year to make the most of warming spices such as juniper, star anise and cinnamon, says Sophie Grigson
he sheer, gorgeous magic of spices lies predominantly in the essential oils they contain. An essential oil is a volatile oil that carries the characteristic scent of the plant it comes from, and that volatility, in other words the tendency to evaporate swiftly, is both a gift and a curse. It means that as we grind spices, their aroma is released, perfuming the air around us and the food it is added to. The downside is that these beautifulsmelling oils don’t hang around for long once they are unleashed. The art of cooking with spices is capturing their essence before it flees into the ether, dissipating and disappearing almost without trace. In order to do this, you will need to buy whole spices wherever possible, and grind them only when you need them. It’s easy enough to do. Whole spices guard the essential oils inside, and they last almost indefinitely if stored properly. The hoards of spices found in Tutankhamun’s tomb are proof enough of that, retaining traces of scents for over 3,000 years. Although buying ready-ground spices may seem the easier option, in the longer term you lose out. Each time you open the lid an invisible cloud of aroma escapes, reducing the potency of the powdered spice inside. After three or four uses it will
28 | foodies
have already paled to a shadow of its former proud self. Soon there is nothing for it but to throw out what’s left, unless you are willing to put up with the dull, lifeless traces of scent left behind. What’s the point of that? As ever, there are exceptions, or rather the occasional lack of options. The three most obvious instances are cinnamon, ginger and turmeric. Whole cinnamon sticks are hard to grind to a fine powder, so it makes sense to lay in a small stock of ground cinnamon. Luckily, this is a spice you are likely to use up fairly quickly in sweet dishes as well as savoury. Similarly, whole chunks of dried ginger are rock-like, making ground ginger welcome for baking
Sophie Grigson is one of the UK’s best-loved chefs
The hoards of spices in Tutenkhamun’s ts for 3,000 years tomb kept their scen
Try Sophie’s recipes opposite & overleaf
or in Moroccan recipes. Replace it regularly if you don’t want your gingernuts to lose their snap. Although it is possible to track down fresh or dried turmeric, it’s not so easy. Again, buy it ground, change it often. Whatever the state of the spices you buy, the mantra has to be: buy little, buy often. ●
RECIPES SOPHIE GRIGSON
WINTER SQUASH SALAD WITH MINT AND CINNAMON This is a great winter favourite of mine, inspired by Italian ways of cooking orangefleshed winter squash, but given a North American flavour with the addition of cinnamon and pomegranate molasses.
From Spices by Sophie Grigson, published by Quadrille, £20 Images: David Loftus
Serves 4 500g winter squash, such as butternut or onion squash 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped Handful mint leaves 1 tsp ground cinnamon 2-3 tsp pomegranate molasses Salt and freshly ground black pepper
● Peel, deseed and slice the squash thinly. Fry in two batches: heat half the olive oil in a wide frying pan over a brisk heat and fry half the squash slices evenly on both sides, turning as they brown. When almost done, add one of the chopped garlic cloves to cook for a minute or two. Transfer to a shallow serving dish. Repeat to cook the second batch. ● Set aside a few mint leaves for garnish. Chop the rest roughly and scatter over the squash while still warm. Sprinkle with the cinnamon, add the pomegranate molasses and season with salt and pepper to taste. Turn so that everything is evenly mixed, then leave to cool. Serve the salad at room temperature, with the remaining mint scattered over.
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RECIPES SOPHIE GRIGSON
RED COOKED LAMB Red cooking is a classic Chinese way of cooking meat, simmered gently in a broth flavoured with star anise, soy sauce, shaoxing wine and other aromatics. The cooked lamb can be eaten hot or cold, thinly sliced to make the most of it. I like it steaming hot with Chinese greens… so satisfying. Serves 6 1.7kg shoulder of lamb 5cm piece fresh root ginger, peeled & sliced 4 garlic cloves, peeled & sliced 2 strips dried tangerine peel 1 cinnamon stick 2 star anise 4 tbsp dark muscovado sugar 1 tbsp rice vinegar or cider vinegar 6 tbsp shaoxing wine (or dry sherry) 5 tbsp soy sauce
● Put the lamb into a large heavy-based saucepan and cover with water. Bring up to the boil and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Take the lamb out and discard the liquid. ● Rinse out the pan and return the lamb to it. Add all the remaining ingredients and pour on enough water to cover. Bring up to the boil again, then reduce the heat and simmer very gently for 2-2 1⁄2 hours until the lamb is very, very tender, topping up the liquid level with more boiling water as
needed to keep the lamb covered. ● If not eating immediately, turn off the heat and leave the lamb to cool in the broth. Cover and transfer to the fridge. The next day, lift the fat from the surface and discard. ● Take out the lamb and slice thinly. Strain the broth and return to the pan. Bring up to the boil, add the pak choi and simmer for 2 minutes. ● Divide between individual bowls, add the sliced lamb and top with spring onions and coriander leaves to serve.
To serve 3 pak choi, quartered lengthways 3 spring onions, trimmed and sliced Handful coriander leaves
TOP TIP To serve the lamb cold, boil the cooking liquid hard to reduce by half, then cool. Arrange the lamb on a plate with batons of cucumber, spoon over a little reduced sauce and serve.
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RECIPES SOPHIE GRIGSON
PHEASANT TERRINE A polite waft of juniper permeates this game pâté, making it a total treat for autumn or winter. Creating terrines and pâtés is much simpler than most people think. Buy the meats from a good butcher, so that they can mince them for you. If they are game dealers as well, they will skin the pheasant and remove the breasts too. Serves 6-8 1 plump pheasant, including livers if available 2 tbsp brandy 300g belly pork, minced 180g veal, minced 10 juniper berries, crushed Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 2 shallots, peeled and very finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled and very finely chopped 2 tsp thyme leaves 2 tbsp chopped parsley 1 egg 6 tbsp dry white wine Salt and freshly ground black pepper, About 220g sheet pork back fat, 3mm thick, or thinly sliced streaky bacon 6 or 7 bay leaves
● Skin the pheasant, then remove the breasts and cut these into slices, about 1cm thick. Place the slices in a bowl, add the brandy and marinate for 2 hours. ● Strip as much of the remaining flesh as you can from the pheasant, discarding tendons and sinews. Chop the meat finely. Mix with the remaining ingredients, except the pork back fat and bay leaves, seasoning with salt and pepper. Drain off the juices from the breast pieces. ● Fry a small knob of the mixture in a small pan and then taste to check the seasoning. Adjust accordingly. ● Preheat the oven to 170ºC and put the kettle on to boil. Line a 1 litre terrine with the pork back fat.
● Spread one-third of the meat mixture over the base of the lined terrine, then arrange half of the marinated pheasant breast slices over that. Repeat these layers, then dollop on the rest of the pâté. Smooth firmly, mounding it up. Arrange strips of pork fat and bay leaves on top. ● Cover the dish with a rectangle of greased foil. Stand in a roasting tin, and pour enough hot water around the dish to come about 2.5cm up the sides. Cook in the oven for 1 1⁄2 - 2 hours until the pâté is just firm to the touch and shrinking away from the sides of the dish, removing the foil for the last 20 minutes so that the top can brown a little. ● Allow to cool before serving.
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FOODIE FOCUS GINO D’ACAMPO
Our daily bread Baked treats are a staple of the Italian table, so who better to show you how to whip up a batch of walnut bread or a few pizzas than top Italian chef Gino D’Acampo?
visited a fantastic antique wood oven in Altamura, Puglia, where focaccia and other breads and baked goods are still baked in the centuries-old tradition. A fire is built in the centre of the oven, and, when the wood burns down to embers, it is moved to one side and the bread placed in the centre using a long paddle. The bread of Altamura is the most famous bread in Europe and is made from semolina. Because it uses a starter dough or biga it has a tangy taste similar to sourdough. Originally these loaves were made to a size of 5kg to feed an entire family for a week, with the unique shape keeping the inside fresh. These days, people eat less bread than they used to and the loaves are a more manageable 1kg. The baker gave me a lesson in cooking bread and focaccia, which in that region is cooked with tomatoes, oregano and salt. Focaccia is most certainly the ancestor of the pizza. Naples is seen as the birthplace of pizza in its current form, as the peasants and working class of the city appreciated the way it allowed them to use up yesterday’s leftovers, and the fact that it could be eaten without utensils. The renowned pizza alla Napoletana was the favoured fast food on the streets of 34 | foodies
Gino travelled all over Italy learning more about Italian baking
Try Gino’s recipes opposite & overleaf
19th century Naples, and while you can find variations all over the world, Neapolitans take great pride in the authentic version, with its topping of San Marzano tomatoes, garlic, fresh oregano or basil, salt and olive oil. There are no hard and fast rules with Italian baking. Different bakers, including my friend Dino who helped me to develop these recipes, will prefer to use certain flours over others. I use strong white flour for making breads and pizza bases, and plain or self-raising for cakes and biscuits. Strong white flour is made from hard wheat, which has a high protein content and therefore contains extra gluten. This enables the dough to stretch as the yeast acts, making this type of flour particularly good for bread-making. It is also sometimes labelled as ‘bread flour.’ ●
HOW TO KNEAD DOUGH It’s best to work your bread in a warm place. Dust your working area with flour and rub some olive oil on your hands. Gather the dough into a ball shape, transfer to your surface and fold in half. Using the palm of your hand push the dough away from you a couple of times. Give the dough a quarter turn, fold in half and repeat. Continue to knead until the texture is elastic and smooth, around 10-15 minutes. If it’s ready, it should feel like your earlobe.
RECIPES GINO D’ACAMPO
PUMPKIN AND WALNUT BREAD This loaf has to be served with a cheese platter – the walnuts in the soft, creamy dough texture are so tasty and served with any cheese this is just to die for.
From Italian Home Baking by Gino D'Acampo, Kyle Cathie, £18.99
Makes 1 loaf 500g pumpkin (unprepared weight) 50g salted butter, melted, plus extra 60g caster sugar 1 ⁄2 tsp grated nutmeg 3 medium eggs, lightly beaten 350g strong white flour 2 tsp baking powder 1 ⁄2 tsp salt 100g walnuts, roughly chopped
● Peel the pumpkin and discard the seeds. Cut the flesh into small chunks and place in a medium saucepan. Cover with water and bring to the boil. Put the lid on, lower the heat and simmer for 25 minutes. Drain well and blitz in a food processor until you have a smooth purée. Leave to cool. ● Grease a 22x11cm loaf tin with a little butter. Line the base and sides of the tin with greaseproof paper. Preheat the oven to 180ºC. ● Weigh 280g of the pumpkin purée into a large bowl. Add the butter, sugar, nutmeg and eggs and mix all the ingredients together. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a second large bowl and make a well in the centre. Pour the pumpkin mixture into the well and with the help of a wooden spoon, stir everything together until smooth. Finally fold in the walnuts. ● Pour the mixture into the loaf tin and bake in the middle of the oven for one hour. Once cooked the loaf will be golden and shrink from the sides of the tin. ● Allow the loaf to rest for 3 minutes out of the oven before turning it out on to a wire rack to cool.
TOP TIP You can omit the pumpkin seeds if you prefer but please keep the walnuts in – it really does make all the difference.
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RECIPES GINO D’ACAMPO
QUATTRO STAGIONI Artichoke hearts are essential on this pizza, as they work beautifully with the ham, mushrooms and olives. Serves 2 200g strong white flour plus extra for dusting 7g fast action dried yeast Pinch salt 140ml water, warm 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil plus extra for brushing 80g chestnut mushrooms, sliced 200g passata 2 mozarella balls, drained and cut into small cubes 100g pitted Kalamata olives, quartered 80g sliced cooked ham, cut into strips 6 artichoke hearts in oil, drained and quartered Salt and pepper, to taste
TOP TIP I have tried making this pizza with rocket leaves instead of mushrooms and it’s just as good.
● Prepare two baking trays by pouring 1 tbsp olive oil in each tray and spread it with your fingers or a pastry brush. Brush the insides of a large bowl with oil. ● To prepare the topping, heat the oil in a large frying pan over a high heat and fry the mushrooms for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Season with salt, leave to cool and set aside. ● To prepare the dough, place the flour, yeast and salt into a large bowl, make a well in the centre and pour in the water with 1 tbsp oil. Use a wooden spoon to mix everything together to create a wet dough. ● Turn out the dough on to a well-floured surface. Roll 4 little pieces of dough into 22cm-long strings, and set them aside.
Divide the remaining dough into two equal halves. Use your hands to push each one out from the centre to create 2 discs about 22cm in diameter, reserving some dough for the crosses. Gently lift the pizza bases on to oiled baking trays. ● Spread the passata evenly over the bases using the back of a tablespoon and season with salt and pepper. Scatter the mozzarella cheese on top. ● Use 2 dough strings per pizza to make a cross on top of each. Press the ends of the strings on to the edge of the base to secure. Fill one triangle of each pizza with olives, one with ham, one with artichokes and the last with mushrooms. ● Cook in the middle of the oven for 18 minutes until golden brown. foodies | 37
RECIPES GINO D’ACAMPO
PANNA COTTA WITH AMARETTO If you love Italian food, you simply must learn how to make a good panna cotta. 1.2 litres double cream Zest of two unwaxed oranges 140g caster sugar 2 tsp vanilla extract 120ml skimmed milk 4 gelatine leaves 80ml amaretto liqueur ● Pour 800ml of the cream into a saucepan with the orange zest, caster sugar and vanilla extract. Bring to the boil then simmer until the mixture is reduced by a third. ● Meanwhile pour the milk into a small saucepan and soak the gelatine leaves for 5 minutes in the cold milk. After this time, remove the leaves and reserve on a plate. Place the pan with the milk over a low heat and gently warm it through.
Once ready, return the gelatine to the milk and stir to dissolve. Stir the milk into the warm cream mixture, pass through a sieve into a large bowl and leave to cool. ● Lightly whip the remaining cream in another large bowl and gently fold into the setting mixture, together with the amaretto liqueur. Pour the cooled mixture into 6 dariole moulds and place in the fridge to set for at least 4 hours. ● To serve, remove the panna cotta from the fridge and run a knife around the edges to loosen. Place a plate over the top and invert. Remove the moulds and enjoy the panna cotta with fresh fruit.
TOP TIP If you find your panna cotta a little too soft, the next time you make it add an extra gelatine leaf.
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MEET THE CHEF AGGIE MACKENZIE
Clean and simple An evening cooking class led to How Clean is Your House’s Aggie MacKenzie falling in love with food for the first time
here is nothing in this world that makes me happier than cooking for my family – both immediate and extended – and special pals. Eating together and enjoying shared food made with love and good ingredients forms the basis of a life worth living. I came to cooking quite late. Because I passed my 11-plus, I did Latin instead of domestic science at secondary school and so never had the opportunity to learn to cook. Mum ran a tight ship in her very small kitchen, turning out lunches and dinners for six people every day. While I and my three sisters were growing up, we weren’t really welcome in the kitchen, as little ones mucking in would not only slow up, but mess up the process. I didn’t properly appreciate her broths, stews and scones until I left home. Although none of us sisters growing up had much of a clue about how to get a meal on the table, we all inherited a sound culinary code: if you want your body to work well for you, don’t stuff it full of rubbish. When I came to work in London in the mid-1970s, aged 20, I realised that if I wanted to enjoy the standard of food I grew up with I would have to learn how to bring ingredients together to form a meal. I enrolled at a local authority haute cuisine (it was the 1970s, remember!) 40 | foodies
Aggie was the head of the Good Housekeeping Institute in London
evening class around the corner from where I lived in south London. The teacher, Mrs K, had worked in Claridge’s during the war as a pastry chef and her knowledge and experience were truly inspiring. That evening class became the highlight of my week; Mrs K became my mentor and I was teacher’s pet. She showed us how to make pasta, bone a whole chicken, prepare crab, turn out perfect choux. It was like falling in love. There’s nothing like attending a class or course to renew your interest in cooking. I’ve attended a fair few over the years and I’d say every time I’ve felt inspired and invigorated. No matter how experienced a cook you are, there are always new things
There’s nothing like attending a class or course erest in cooking to invigorate your int
Try Aggie’s recipes opposite and overleaf
to learn. The key is to nail your special interest, whether it’s pasta, or breadmaking or fish cookery, then seek out a specialist course and treat yourself. Lots of cookery schools sell gift vouchers so make a note to put some on your Christmas list. You will come away with new knowledge and a fresh perspective. ●
RECIPES AGGIE MACKENZIE
MY WINNING ‘F-WORD’ TRIFLE I couldn’t believe it when I beat Gordon Ramsay on The F-Word with this. If you have any leftover sponge cake, you can use that instead of trifle sponges. Makes 4-6 For the topping Vegetable oil 25g flaked almonds 35g golden icing sugar, plus 1 extra tbsp 150ml double cream
For the custard 300ml single cream 1 vanilla pod, split lengthways 4 medium egg yolks 50g golden caster sugar
● Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Line a baking sheet with foil and brush with vegetable oil. ● Put the flaked almonds into a sieve and rinse under cold water. Tip into a bowl and mix with the icing sugar. Spread out on the foil and bake in the oven for 10 minutes until caramelized. Cool. ● Make the custard: pour the single cream into a small pan and add the vanilla pod. Bring it just to the boil – it’s ready when small bubbles appear on the edge. Remove the pod. Beat together the egg yolks and sugar, then gradually pour the cream on top, stirring all the time. Rinse out the pan, then return the
mixture to the pan and heat gently until it has thickened and coats the back of the spoon. Set aside to cool a little. ● Slice the trifle sponges through the middle and spread each base with jam. Put back together and use to line a trifle bowl. Sprinkle over the raspberries and banana, then douse everything in the sherry. ● Spoon the custard over the top, then chill until cold. Pour the double cream into a bowl and add the remaining tbsp of icing sugar. Whip just until it’s soft and floppy. Spoon on top of the custard. Break up the caramelized almonds and scatter over the top.
For the base 4 trifle sponges Raspberry jam 150g raspberries 1 large banana, sliced 2-3 tbsp sweet sherry
All recipes taken from Aggie’s Family Cookbook, by Aggie MacKenzie, published by Pavilion, £20. You can buy a copy of the book for only £15.00 including free UK p&p. Call 0870 787 1724 and quote reference CH1545. foodies | 41
RECIPES AGGIE MACKENZIE
EGGY BREAD WITH FUDGEY PLUMS Serves 4 3 medium eggs 2 tbsp golden caster sugar 8 small slices of bread A little butter and drizzle of vegetable oil, plus extra if needed
For the plums 75g butter 4 plums, halved and pitted Juice of 1 orange 75g soft light brown sugar 150-200ml double cream 1 tsp vanilla extract Beat the eggs in a shallow dish with the sugar. Add the bread slices in batches and allow each to soak up some of the eggy mixture. ● For the plums, melt the butter in a large pan. Add the fruit, cut-side down, pour over the juice and cook gently for around 5 minutes until softened, turning over halfway. Remove the plums from the pan and reserve. Add the sugar, cream and vanilla to the pan and cook until caramelised and saucy. ● While the sauce is cooking, heat the butter and oil in a large frying pan. Cook the soaked and drained bread in batches until golden on each side, adding more butter or oil if the pan’s looking dry. ● Divide the slices between four plates, top with two plum halves and drizzle a little of the sauce over each.
NO-FUSS QUEEN OF PUDDINGS This is one of those dishes that goes in and out of fashion, but it’s always on my list of favourites- so simple and with nothing special to be bought.
Serves 4 For the base Butter, for greasing 140ml full-fat milk Finely grated zest of 1 large unwaxed lemon 40g golden caster sugar 90g good-quality white breadcrumbs 1 ⁄2 vanilla pod, split along the length 3 large egg yolks 3 tbsp good-quality seedless raspberry jam
For the meringue 3 large egg whites 150g golden caster sugar, plus a little extra to sprinkle over
● Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Butter a fairly shallow 1.2ltr ovenproof dish. Make the base: in a saucepan bring the milk to just below the boil. Stir in the lemon zest and sugar. Add the breadcrumbs and vanilla. ● Allow to cool a little, then beat in the egg yolks. Remove the pod and pour the mixture into the prepared dish. Bake for around 20 minutes until set (but not rigid). Put to one side and turn up the oven to 190ºC. Melt the jam and spread over the base. ● For the meringue, beat the whites with an electric whisk until fairly stiff. Continue whisking and gradually add the sugar, a tablespoon at a time at first, then increase as the meringue bulks up. Pile it over the base, using the back of the spoon to make it look beautiful and swirly. Sprinkle the meringue with a little sugar and stick it back in the oven for about 12-15 minutes until nicely coloured. Serve warm rather than hot.
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GLUTEN-FREE RECIPE JULIA THOMAS
GLUTEN-FREE LEMON BUTTERFLY CAKES These butterfly cakes are quite grown up and are filled with deliciously tangy lemon curd that melts in the mouth.
Julia Thomas is a lifelong baker and cake lover, who established the gluten- and dairyfree bakery Cake Angels in Hereford. From Cake Angels by Julia Thomas, Collins, £16.99
Serves 12 200g dairy-free spread 200g caster sugar Grated zest of 1 lemon 4 large eggs, beaten 200g wheat- and gluten-free selfraising flour 2 tsp xanthan gum Icing sugar
For the lemon curd 3 large eggs 100g runny honey Grated zest of 1 lemon 175g coconut oil 110ml lemon juice 50g dairy-free spread
● First make the lemon curd. In a medium-sized saucepan off the heat, use a large balloon whisk to combine the eggs, honey and lemon zest. Add coconut oil in small pieces, then add lemon juice. Whisk all together over a medium heat until the oil has melted and the mixture thickens and starts to bubble. Sieve over a mixing bowl and gradually whisk in the spread until combined. Thicken in the fridge for one hour. ● To make the cakes, preheat the oven to 180ºC. Line a 12-hole muffin tin with cases. Use a mixer on a high setting to cream together the spread, sugar and lemon zest for about 3 minutes until light and fluffy. ● Gradually add the beaten eggs on a medium setting, mixing well between each addition. Don’t worry if the mixture curdles slightly, just turn the mixer back to high for a couple of seconds and it will become smooth again. Fold in the sifted flour and xanthan gum using a metal spoon so you don’t knock the air out. ● Divide the mixture evenly between the cases, filling each 3⁄4 full. Level with the back of a teaspoon. ● Bake in the middle of the oven for 20-25 minutes or until the cakes are well risen and golden. Remove from the oven and leave to cool in the tins for 5 minutes before transferring to a metal cooling rack. ● Once the cakes have cooled use a small, sharp knife to cut a cone shape out of the centre of each cake. Cut the cones in half to make the wings. ● Either pipe or spoon the chilled lemon curd into the hollowed-out cone shape, then finish with the two cone halves on top. Dust with icing sugar to finish.
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IN SEASON TRUFFLES
Striking gold Whether white or black, finding a hoard of truffles in your vegetable patch is like stumbling upon hidden treasure, as one school in Perthshire discovered. Words Caroline Whitham
hen Moncrieffe Primary School in Perthshire linked up with top local chef Graeme Pallister to set up a vegetable patch, they expected to learn more about healthy eating and growing their own food, but they weren’t expecting something magical to happen. When the pupils came to harvest their veg, they discovered some rather odd looking fungii in the earth alongside them. Luckily Pallister, who owns and runs the restaurant 63 Tay Street in Perth, immediately recognised the lumpy growths as rare truffles, the first of their kind to be found in Scotland.“They had the savvy to say ‘what’s this?’” says the chef.“The smell was so pungent that luckily they didn’t throw them away.” The truffles are an edible variety of white truffle, called tuber maculatum,
Rare white truffles are worth a lot of money
Try truffle recipes opposite and overleaf
and have been identified and verified by truffle experts in Montpellier, who conducted a full DNA report. The school intends to spend any money that the truffles raise on their ongoing campaign to build a teaching kitchen, to give the pupils even more of a chance to learn about food and healthy eating.“We need the extra funds to put towards the kitchen,” says Pallister,“ and they have found an absolute treasure.” Karen Young, the headmistress at the school, went out with the kids on another truffle hunt, and they have since found more. Because the truffles have an incredibly short shelf life, the school is hoping to keep them in the ground as long as possible, and the search is on for someone to buy the truffles. ●
MARY CONTINI ON ALBA TRUFFLES “Every year, in a wave of optimism, we buy fresh Alba truffles. They are fabulously expensive, so we don’t sell a lot! However, we do enjoy putting them on the menu in the Caffè Bar just for the fun of it. Our best customers for them are Clarissa Dickson Wright and her lunch partner, Isabel Rutherford. We freeze truffles that don’t sell so we can shave them from frozen for Clarissa until they are all used up. We get truffles from the most unusual sources. Summer black truffles have even been found on some of our Funghi Forays in East Lothian, but not often, I have to admit. From Valvona & Crolla by Mary Contini, Ebury Press, £25 46 | foodies
IN SEASON TRUFFLES
CHESTNUT AND TRUFFLE RISOTTO Colin Buchan put this on the lunch menu at the York and Albany and it’s one of the best risottos I’ve ever tasted. If you don’t have a truffle, finish the risotto with a drizzle of truffle oil instead. Angela Hartnett is the best-loved and most successful female chef in the UK today. From A Taste of Home by Angela Hartnett, Ebury Press, £25 Image: Jonathan Lovekin
Serves 4 2 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion, chopped 350g risotto rice 200ml white wine, About 850ml hot vegetable stock 250g cooked chestnuts (vacuumpacked are fine) 200g cold butter, diced 50g grated Parmesan or Pecorino 1 tbsp chopped flatleaf parsley 1 truffle, finely chopped, or 1 tbsp truffle oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper
● Heat the oil in a large pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until soft and translucent, about 2 minutes. Stir in the rice and cook for a further 2 minutes. Turn up the heat and add the wine – it should sizzle as it hits the pan. Cook for about 2 minutes to evaporate the alcohol. ● Once the liquid has reduced, begin adding the hot stock a ladleful at a time over a medium heat, allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding the next, and stirring continuously. The rice should always be moist but not swimming in liquid. The process of adding and stirring should take about 18 minutes. ● Crumble 200g of the chestnuts and add them to the risotto for the last 4 minutes of the cooking time. Finely slice the remaining 50g of chestnuts. ● When the risotto is done, remove it from the heat and stir in the cold butter. Finish with the Parmesan and parsley, then season well and serve garnished with some sliced chestnuts. Finish with a sprinkling of truffle or a drizzle of truffle oil.
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IN SEASON TRUFFLES
TOP TIP If truffles are not available, morels will do equally well.
TRUFFLE AND MADEIRA SAUCE This sauce will add a note of great festivity and richness to beef and lamb. You can use a fine dry white wine instead of madeira, but you will lose that special flavour which marries so well with the truffles. Albert Roux grew up and trained as a chef in France before opening Le Gavroche and The Waterside Inn in the UK with his brother Michel. From French Country Cooking, by Michel and Albert Roux, Quadrille, £25
48 | foodies
Serves 6 50g butter 2 medium shallots, finely sliced 125g button mushrooms, peeled or washed and thinly sliced 600ml veal stock 100ml top-quality madeira 100g truffles, preferably fresh and raw Salt and freshly ground pepper ● Heat half the butter in a saucepan, then add the shallots and mushrooms and sweat for 2 minutes. Add the veal stock and reduce by half over a gentle heat.
Pour in the madeira and cook gently for 5 minutes, then pass the sauce through a conical sieve and keep hot. ● Peel the truffles and cut into small dice or thin rings. Heat the rest of the butter in a small saucepan, put in the truffles and sweat for 2 or 3 minutes. ● Tip the truffles into the sauce, stir with a spatula and season to taste. Cover the pan and leave to infuse for several minutes. ● Coat the meat you are serving with the hot sauce, or serve it separately in a sauceboat.
COOKING WITH KIDS
Burning bright After all the excitement of the bonfire and fireworks, the kids will love to come home to this inventive food that they can help to make
EDD KIMBER’S NUTELLA AND BANANA BITES Edd Kimber left his unfulfilling office job to win last year’s The Great British Bake Off. Makes about 20 squares Vegetable oil, for greasing 3 tbsp butter 140g mini marshmallows 75g Rice Krispies 100g milk chocolate, broken into pieces 275g Nutella 2 large bananas Press a piece of foil into the base and up the sides of a 20cm square baking tin and very lightly grease it with vegetable oil. ● Melt the butter in a pan over a medium heat. Add the marshmallows and stir until melted. Remove from the heat and add the Rice Krispies. Stir to coat evenly. ● Using a large, lightly oiled spoon, press the mixture firmly and evenly into the tin. ● For the topping, melt the chocolate and Nutella in a microwave or a heatproof bowl over gently simmering water, making sure the base of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Once melted, remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. ● Meanwhile, slice the bananas thinly and spread in an even layer across the base. Pour the Nutella mixture over and use a spatula to level it. Put the tray in the fridge until set, then cut into squares. ●
50 | foodies
The Boy Who Bakes by Edd Kimber, Kyle Cathie, £16.99. Image: Yuki Sugiura
RECIPES COOKING WITH KIDS
LORRAINE PASCALE’S GRAFFITI CAKE Lorraine Pascale is a former supermodel turned leading patisserie chef, and the presenter of the BBC’s Baking Made Easy and Home Cooking Made Easy. 2 sponge cakes brushed with sugar syrup [see www.foodies-magazine.com for recipe]
From Home Cooking Made Easy by Lorraine Pascale, HarperCollins, £20
For the buttercream 400g butter, softened Seeds of 1⁄2 vanilla pod 800g icing sugar For the graffiti writing 250g granulated sugar 130ml water 130ml golden syrup Red food colouring Few drops vanilla extract
● Put the cakes into the freezer for 20 mins while you make the buttercream. Put the butter and vanilla in a large bowl and beat well with a wooden spoon until it goes light and creamy. Gradually add the icing sugar and beat together until the mixture becomes lighter. Set aside. ● Dollop some buttercream on to a cake board then take one of the cakes and place it on top. Spread with buttercream and place the other cake on top. Spread lots of buttercream over the top and sides of the cake, smoothing it well. Chill. ● While the cake is chilling, make the graffiti. Line a couple of baking trays with baking parchment. Have handy a jug and a spoon in a cup of cold water. ● Put the sugar into a heavy-based pan with the water and golden syrup. Swirl a little rather than stirring. Once the sugar has dissolved, turn up the heat and boil. ● Take the spoon and dip it in, carefully scooping out some mixture, then put the spoon back into the cup and leave it to cool for a minute. Feel the sugar mixture on the end of the spoon. When the sugar is ready it will be rock hard. The mixture in the pan will start to turn light brown. ● Turn off the heat and add the colouring and flavouring, stirring a little. Being extremely careful, pour the mixture into a jug. Use oven gloves, as hot sugar can spit and burn you. Leave to cool for a minute or two, then drizzle a long band of squiggle shapes on the parchment. Use a hairdryer to keep the mixture pliable if necessary. The graffiti needs to be at least as high as your cake. Once you are satisfied you have enough (always make extra, as the sugar will break), wait a few moments for the sugar to harden. ● Remove the cake from the fridge. When the graffiti is firm but still pliable, carefully peel off the back of the baking parchment and stick the graffiti around the cake.
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RECIPES COOKING WITH KIDS
LEVI ROOTS’ HOPPIN’ TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE Star of Dragons’ Den Levi Roots is the creator of Reggae Reggae Sauce and Britain’s best-loved Caribbean cook.
From Spice it Up! by Levi Roots, Mitchell Beazley, £18.99. Image: Chris Terry
Serves 4 2 tbsp sunflower oil 8 meat or veggie sausages (ideally chilli ones) 2 red peppers, cored, deseeded and cut into 10 slices
For the batter 125g plain flour 1-2 tsp chilli powder, or 1 ⁄2 red chilli (ideally Scotch Bonnet), deseeded and finely chopped 1 ⁄4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg Large pinch salt 2 large eggs 150ml milk 150ml water
● For the batter, put the flour into a large bowl and stir in the chilli, nutmeg and salt. Whisk the eggs with the milk and water. Make a well in the centre of the seasoned flour and pour in the liquid. Gradually draw the dry ingredients into the liquid to make a smooth batter, beating hard to remove any lumps. (Alternatively, you can make this in a food processor by adding all the ingredients and whizzing using the pulse button until you have a smooth batter.) Cover and leave to rest in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. ● Preheat the oven to 220ºC. Heat 1
tablespoon of the oil in a frying pan over a high heat, add the sausages and cook on one side for about 5 minutes until browned. Meanwhile, put the remaining tablespoon of oil into a roasting tin and place in the oven to get good and hot. ● Transfer the sausages to the hot oil in the roasting tin, browned-side down. Pour the batter over the sausages, scatter the pepper pieces evenly around, skin side-up, and cook in the oven for 35-40 minutes until the batter is well risen and the sausages cooked through. Serve immediately. foodies | 53
RECIPES COOKING EN COCOTTE
Pots of fun
Cooking in little pots, or cocottes, is a lovely way to brighten up an autumn dinner party or even a family meal
BRIOCHE WITH CAMEMBERT AND REDCURRANT JELLY Makes 6-8 18-20 brioche slices 2 Camembert, thinly sliced Freshly ground black pepper 500ml single cream 1 jar redcurrant jelly, to serve
From Cooking en Cocotte by Jose Marechal, Simon & Schuster, £7.99
● Trim the brioche slices so that they are roughly the same shape and size as the cocottes. ● Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place a slice of brioche in the bottom of each cocotte, add some Camembert and a little pepper. Continue until the cocottes are half filled. Press down firmly and finish with 1 or 2 slices of Camembert. Cover with the cream and cook for 15 minutes. ● Serve warm with the redcurrant jelly.
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RECIPES COOKING EN COCOTTE
DUCK WITH LEMON AND SAGE Serves 6-8 4 lemons, cut into sixths 200g caster sugar 5-6 duck legs 100g breadcrumbs 30g butter, at room temperature 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Small bunch of fresh sage, a few leaves reserved for decoration and the remainder finely chopped
TOTALLY CHOCOLATE Serves 4-6 200g dark chocolate, broken into small pieces 125g butter, cubed, plus 50g for greasing, softened 60g plain flour 20g potato flour 20g cocoa powder 125g caster sugar 3 eggs
● Melt the chocolate and butter in a bowl placed over a pan of simmering water. ● Mix the two flours and cocoa powder together. Add the sugar to the melted chocolate then add the eggs and whisk vigorously together. Add the flour mixture to the chocolate and mix together until you have a smooth paste. ● Grease the insides of the cocottes with the softened butter. Divide the chocolate mixture between the cocottes and put in the fridge for at least 30 minutes (overnight would be even better). ● Preheat the oven to 200°C. Cook for 7-8 minutes. Serve immediately.
TOP TIP Potato flour is available from health food shops.
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● Place the lemons, sugar and 1 litre of water in a saucepan over a medium heat and leave to cook until the liquid has almost entirely evaporated (about 40 minutes). Set aside at room temperature. (To save time you could do this in advance.) ● Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the duck legs in a roasting tray and cook for about 15 minutes to remove as much fat as possible. ● Mix the breadcrumbs, butter, garlic and a few chopped sage leaves together and knead with your fingertips. ● Remove the bones from the duck legs, taking care to keep the flesh in large pieces, and share the meat between the cocottes. Cut a few of the lemons into smaller pieces and add to the cocottes with the bigger slices. Sprinkle with the breadcrumb mixture and cook for around 15 minutes. ● Remove from the oven, add a few sage leaves for decoration and serve immediately.
FOODIE FOCUS KITCHEN DESIGN
Kitchen suppers When planning your kitchen, remember to leave space to enjoy dinner around the table with friends and family. Words Christina Strutt
real working kitchen should combine cooking utensils and foodstuffs in its decoration – gleaming saucepans, wooden spoons, eggs, herbs, oils and wines, all in view and within easy and inspiring access. There is always something a little suspicious about a clean and sparse kitchen, with acres of granite and steel and not a jar or a spice or a spoon to be seen. How on earth can you prepare a meal when all the ingredients and tools have been hidden away? To me, the simple beauty of a bowl of eggs, or elegant bottles of the finest olive oil steeped with herbs, or mounds of brightly coloured citrus fruits, is testament to the fact that the owner of that kitchen appreciates fine food. Furnished organically with functional pots, pans, and foodstuffs as well as more unexpected items like grand paintings and prints, the eclectic style of a countryhouse kitchen makes it the most welcoming room in the house. I love the informality of eating in the kitchen rather than in a separate dining room: warm and cosy, with delicious smells filling the room, the atmosphere is wonderfully relaxed. It’s also a lovely way of making guests feel part of your family: when everyone’s in the kitchen, caught up in the hustle and 58 | foodies
From Cabbages & Roses: Vintage Chic, Christina Strutt, published by CICO Books, £19.99
bustle of food preparation, no one needs to be stuffy and formal. The one drawback, of course, is that the cooking inevitably creates chaos and clutter – and if you’re not a very confident cook, you have to be prepared to put up with people peering over your shoulder offering “helpful” advice. It’s such a shame that very few houses nowadays have the luxury of an old-fashioned scullery, where dirty pots and pans can be stowed out of sight – but what price a little untidiness compared with the pleasure of breaking bread with family and friends? Country kitchens tend to work best when very simply decorated, with plain
Eating in the kitchen is a lovely way of l part of your family making your guests fee
Call 01256-302699 quoting GLR6JF to purchase a copy at the special price of £17.99 including free p&p. Visit www.cicobooks.co.uk
white or neutral-coloured walls. Stone flags or wooden boards (either left in their natural state or painted with a light colourwash) are the most obvious choices of flooring. Well-placed rugs make a warm and welcoming sight, though choose ones that can be easily cleaned as spillages are inevitable, no matter how
FOODIE FOCUS KITCHEN DESIGN
careful you are. Vintage-style cotton and rag rugs are readily available; you may even be lucky enough to come across them in an antique shop or fleamarket. If space allows, it’s lovely to dedicate an area of the kitchen to the children. Scaleddown children’s furniture is perfect for youngsters who want to invite their friends to a tea party, while budding chefs will love being able to carry out simple tasks like cutting cookies or spreading icing on cakes. Using fabric is a wonderful way of transforming a workmanlike kitchen table into an informal dining area. For a kitchen dining table that is used for cooking as well as for eating, oilcloth is a good choice. As well as being a practical choice in a kitchen, printed oilcloth can be every bit as beautiful as a traditional cotton cloth; its wipe-clean surface makes life so much simpler as a tablecloth often lasts for no more than one sitting before a spillage of red wine or tomato ketchup ruins its pristine state. Fabric can be used to soften other utilitarian areas in the kitchen, too. Instead of smooth cupboard doors, why not hang a simple gingham curtain over the opening to hide away little-used kitchen equipment or even the rubbish bin. 60 | foodies
Use fabric to soften utilitarian areas such as shelves and tables
Rooms that are set aside for dining only and furnished with heavy, formal furniture seem to me to be rather sad and neglected places. They are usually used only for grand occasions and I am filled with dread at the thought of having to spend an entire evening imprisoned at the table, making polite conversation and counting the minutes until I can make my escape. If you treat it carefully, however, a dining room need not be oppressive and grand: avoid the traditional, dark furniture and austere, serious paintings. Opt instead for pale-coloured and pretty tablecloths, upholstery, and window treatments; bring in mirrors and elegant candlesticks to enhance the sense of light in the room; arrange cut flowers in white china or unfussy glass containers; and the whole mood changes from being gloomy and rather foreboding to airy and carefree. When a dining room has a dual purpose- if it’s also used as, say, a study or a library- it immediately has a less formal atmosphere. Instead of being a room that one enters only occasionally, it becomes one that people use on a daily basis. It feels lived-in and loved, and has much more of the occupant’s personal stamp on it. ●
FOODIE SPAS STOBO
Stobo Castle Opulence is the order of the day in Stobo’s high-tech Cashmere Suite. Walls adorned with rich cashmere feature integrated hisand-hers plasma TV screens at the bottom of two four-poster beds. Another plasma faces the breathtaking bath, which was handcrafted from a single slab of limestone, and yet another is set in the library-inspired sitting room with its Zeigler rug! The spa is a wonderful escape from everyday stress, featuring Scotland’s only 25m ozone pool and an aromatic steam room, a laconium, a hydrospa and a full range of treatments. Try the exclusive Haute Couture body treatment, with an exfoliation and wrap followed by an aromatherapy massage – absolute bliss! Dinner featured homemade cream of wild mushroom soup, fillet of trout served with apple sauce a variety of homemade desserts and a great selection of cheese. www.stobocastle.co.uk
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Smoke on the water Warm the places other cocktails canâ€™t reach this Bonfire Night with one of these smoky whisky treats
BLUE BLAZER A spectacular drink to serve but one that is best practiced in the safe confines of the kitchen before trying it in front of an audience. Another tip for those of you who are itching to light up your favourite pewter tankards: unless they have heat resistant handles, burnt fingers may be the result! 1 sugar cube 50ml boiling water 50ml whisky Glass: rocks Garnish: grated nutmeg Warm two small metal tankards. In one, dissolve the sugar in the boiling water. Pour the whisky into the other. Set the whisky on fire, and, as it burns, pour the liquid into the first tumbler and back, from one to the other, creating a continuous stream of fire. Once the flame has died down, pour the mixture into a warmed rocks glass and garnish with a sprinkling of grated nutmeg. foodies | 65
OLD FASHIONED The classic old fashioned is a drink that demands attention from its maker. Despite the relative simplicity of its ingredients, neglect the detail of its preparation at your peril. The delicate mixture of sugar and orange zest will bring to life whichever bourbon you choose to use.
From Easy Cocktails, Ryland, Peters & Small, ÂŁ8.99
1 sugar cube 2 dashes orange bitters 50ml bourbon Glass: rocks Garnish: orange zest
Place the sugar cube soaked in orange bitters into a rocks glass, muddle the mixture with a barspoon and add a dash of bourbon and a couple of ice cubes. Keep adding ice and bourbon and keep muddling until the full 50ml has been added to the glass (ensuring the sugar has dissolved). Rim the glass with a zest of orange and drop it into the glass.
SMOKY MARTINI Try using a very smoky malt, such as Talisker, or a peated one, such as Laphroaig, for interesting results. 50ml gin Dash dry vermouth Dash whisky Glass: martini Garnish: lemon twist Add all the ingredients to a shaker filled with ice. Shake sharply and strain into a chilled martini glass with a lemon zested rim.
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RESTAURANT REVIEW CAFÉ FISH
CAFÉ FISH WORDS: SUE HITCHEN
oused in a classic Georgian building in Stockbridge, this family-run fish restaurant has left its former site in Leith behind to make a welcome addition to New Town dining. Stripped back to the old bank’s stunning art deco interiors, the restaurant is airy and light with wooden parquet floors and panelling, aluminium tables and a feature New York-style oyster bar which welcomes the locals who come in “for their tea”. Owner Richard Muir is passionate about sustainability, and talks affectionately about his suppliers. I ordered Inverawe smoked trout, which sat on a bed of capers and gherkins, dressed with quails’ eggs and cress. This colourful and beautifully-presented dish was delicious – the tartness of the relish a perfect balance to the smokiness of the trout. My companion ordered scallops with smoked apple, celeriac and black truffle purée and declared the scallops to be perfectly cooked and the sauce a welcome accompaniment. We shared a smoked salmon pate, rich with chunks of juicy salmon and chives. My main course of sea bream with basmati rice and aubergines had a
£22 per person for two courses on the set menu at dinner
CAFÉ FISH 15 North West Circus Place, Edinburgh EH3 6SX Tel: 0131 225 4431 cafefish.net
delightful kick of chilli to it, while my partner’s fish and chips with mushy peas was a meaty hake in a very light batter. We loved the vinegar pourer – a stylish white enamel open-mouthed fish – a collectors item, apparently! Fellow diners raved about the mussels, served in brightly-coloured mussel pots – apparently a favourite dish for sharing at the bar. For dessert, the ginger sponge with ginger butterscotch sauce and ginger ice cream was a masterpiece – light melt-in-the-mouth sponge with a wonderful hot sauce contrasting with the chill of the ice cream – every mouthful was to die for and the ice cream, full of ginger, chunks we agreed was the best we’d ever tasted. The kitchen is brought into the restaurant with chef Stuart Lynch cooking in full view of diners. Staff, proudly attired in Café Fish T-shirts with striking fish bone logos, are friendly and efficient, offering a good knowledge of the menu and wine list. Owners Richard and Mary and son Murray are very much in evidence, and you feel that on your next visit you’ll be greeted by name and made to feel even more welcome. ● foodies | 69
“ Fans expect us
DISARONNO STARDUST 50ml Disaronno 25ml vodka 25ml strawberry liqueur Prosecco, to finish Glass: champagne flute Garnish: none Pop the champagne flutes into the freezer for a few minutes before you pour the cocktail into them, to ensure your cocktails are deliciously cold. Pour all the ingredients into a flute glass, and top with Prosecco.
Celtic twist If you’re looking for an unusual Christmas present, Celtic Marches’ new gift set could be just the thing. Each giftpack includes a bottle each of their Bloody Furlong Brandy, Apple & Maple liqueur and their Number Nine Brandy, Apple & Blackcurrent liqueur, as well as a distinctive hip flask with a celtic design on the front. Single liqueur sets are also available. www.celticmarches.com
all to be dressed up all the time. Everyone assumes we’re always going to have a cocktail and a cigarette in hand.” Christina Hendricks
TEAPOT STILL Until the early 1980s, Glengoyne workers were given three drams of whisky every day. If someone didn’t want one of their drams they would pour it into an old copper teapot, and the others would help themselves. The Teapot Dram was created to celebrate this. Five first-fill sherry casks between eight and 11 years old are bottled at cask strength to create a young, fresh, sherried and smooth whisky. www.glengoyne.com
Go pop! Champagne Pommery has collaborated with an acclaimed artist to produce a collection of limited edition bottles printed with real works of art. Chilean Federica Matta, who is renowned for both her painting and sculpture work, was commissioned by Pommery to create a series of six colourful illustrations for its innovative POP range. Each bottle in the POP Art collection depicts a fantasy scene conceived by Matta, featuring mermaids, flying hearts and smiling suns. The POP Art Collector set is priced £52. www.justerinis.com.
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TRIED AND TREW RESTAURANTS & BARS WORDS JONATHAN TREW
Raising the bar COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH: MINT 500
Laughing TIP Andi Osh along with lights on o at High7 to Café Nov? Pop dry, wittyHula for a H Chardoneywood n 2005 firsay t
Glass: martini; Garnish: basil leaf 50ml Hendrick’s Gin; 12.5ml lime juice; Dash elderflower cordial; 12.5ml apple juice; 6 mint leaves; 2 basil leaves; 8 dashes peach bitters; 20ml vanilla gomme syrup; Dash pasteurised egg white
ANDI OSHO IMAGE: IDIL SUKAN
Place all the ingredients into a shaker and ‘dry’ shake. Then fill the shaker with ice and shake vigorously again. Double strain and garnish with a cupped basil leaf.
Jason Scott at Bramble Bar & Lounge came up with this delicious cocktail using Hendrick’s Gin, www.hendricksgin.com Bramble Bar & Lounge, 16A Queen Street, Edinburgh, Scotland, EH2 1JE, Tel: 0131 226 6343, www.bramblebar.co.uk
EDINBURGH KANPAI A thirty second stroll from the Royal Lyceum, this new sushi restaurant is a spin-off from Dalry’s well-established Sushiya restaurant. Beautifully presented sushi and sashimi feature prominently, but there is also a selection of less well-known dishes such as deep-fried oysters and octopus balls. As well as wines and beers, there are four different types of sake to help it all go down. You can see why they named it after the Japanese for ‘Cheers!’ 8 Grindlay Street, Edinburgh Tel: 0131 228 1602 www.kanpaisushi.co.uk GLASGOW VIVA BRAZIL A samba band and exotically clad dancers recently marked the arrival in town of this new Brazilian restaurant. It’s a churrascaria which is Portuguese for “carnivores will love this”. Essentially,
fifteen different cuts of chargrilled lamb, beef, pork and chicken are presented to diners at each table for them to pick what they want. Diners hold up a green flag if they want the passador waiters to keep coming and a red flag if their belt has reached bursting point. The caipirinha cocktails are punchy. 87-91 Bothwell Street, Glasgow Tel: 0141 204 0240 www.vivabrazilrestaurants.com GLASGOW VESPBAR ‘Farewell O’Henry’s. Long live Vespbar!’ is the cry on Drury Street where a new, but retrostyled, Italian caffe bar has sprung up. Everything from breakfast rolls to pizza via coffee and draught prosecco is on the menu. James McLaughlin, aka DJ Jim Da Best, is at the steering wheel so expect groovy tunes from the man who has looked after the music everywhere from The Tunnel to The Buff Club. 12-14 Drury Street, Glasgow www.vespbar.com
UNUSUAL WINES Rude Mechanicals Definite Article 2010 £9.95 A big, full bodied, fruit driven blast. Millton Crazy by Nature Dry Flint Chenin Blanc, Gisborne 2009 £11.50 A fresh, fruit-driven chenin blanc with lively mineral notes. Douro Tinto ‘Drink Me’, Niepoort 2008 £10.50 An easy-drinking red with Douro depth.
From Drinkmonger, 11 Bruntsfield Pl, Edinburgh EH10 4HN Tel: 0131 229 2205 foodies | 73
FOODIE FOCUS CHRISTMAS GETAWAYS
Escape the stress and the washing up this Christmas with a festive break at one of Scotland’s most romantic country house hotels. Words Caroline Whitham
ATHOLL ESTATES Blair Atholl, Perthshire Tel: 01796 481355 www.atholl-estates.co.uk Imagine a Christmas holiday hideaway buried deep in a Scottish glen, or set amidst the splendour of the lower Strathtay, or perhaps located within Blair Castle’s historic landscape.At Atholl Estates, you can take a break in one of six fully-equipped selfcatering lodges, each with its own character and magnificent surroundings. Blair Castle will be splendidly decorated, and children can delight in a magical trip to Santa’s Grotto, in the castle grounds.Weekly lets over Christmas are priced from £680 £3410 per lodge. HILTON COYLUMBRIDGE Aviemore, Inverness-shire PH22 1QN Tel: 01479 810661 www.hilton.co.uk/coylumbridge Hilton Coylumbridge offers spectacular Highland scenery; the perfect snowy backdrop to ensure a Christmas to remember. The hotel is offering a range
of packages including the two-night Christmas package (from £133.60 per night) offering a piper upon arrival, torchlight procession to the nearby church and a fireworks display on Christmas Eve. On Christmas morning, Santa Claus and his reindeer will drop by. Later in the day, enjoy a traditional Christmas dinner.
Above: Christmas decorations at Atholl Estates
HILTON DUNKELD HOUSE Dunkeld Perthshire PH8 0HX Tel: 01350 727771 www.hiltondunkeld.co.uk With unique views of the River Tay and a picturesque garden, Dunkeld House is the perfect setting for a rural Christmas. Christmas Day celebrations begin with a Bucks Fizz breakfast and guests can chose from a range of activities for all ages, such as a children’s Christmas party, a storyteller, and clay shooting or archery. Guests will also be treated to the finest food and entertainment, including a traditional Scottish ceilidh dinner. Various packages are available, including two- or three-night breaks from £299 or £399. foodies | 75
FOODIE FOCUS CHRISTMAS GETAWAYS
KNOCK CASTLE HOTEL AND SPA Drummond Terrace, Crieff PH7 4AN Tel: 01764 650088 www.knockcastle.com The team of highly-trained chefs at Knock Castle will provide you with a home-cooked Christmas dinner, without the burden of cleaning up afterwards! The festive package offers three nights’ dinner, bed and breakfast, mince pies and mulled wine and lunch on Boxing Day, from £500 each.
malt whisky to enjoy beside glowing fires. Three nights’ dinner, bed and breakfast including Christmas lunch and a light buffet on the 25th are priced from £295. LOCH MELFORT HOTEL & RESTAURANT Arduaine, by Oban, Argyll PA34 4XG Tel: 01852 200233 www.lochmelfort.co.uk All of the rooms at Loch Melfort have balconies enjoying breathtaking views over Asknish Bay towards Jura, Shuna and Scarba. Relax by a roaring fire with a dram, take brisk walks to enjoy the scenery, or watch Highland cattle and sheep through the window of the cosy lounge.
KNOCKINAAM LODGE Dumfries and Galloway DG9 9AD Tel: 01776 810471 www.knockinaamlodge.com Michelin-starred Knockinaam Lodge is the perfect destination for a country house break. Festive breaks, including three nights’ dinner, bed and breakfast, plus Christmas lunch, are priced from £530. LOCH KINORD HOTEL Ballater Rd, Dinnet AB34 5JY Tel: 013398 85229 www.lochkinord.com Loch Kinord Hotel is guaranteeing their guests a white Christmas – or they’ll refund £50 per full paying customer! The hotel, which is tucked away in Royal Deeside, has excellent food, wines and
Knockinaam Lodge, Roman Camp, Loch Melfort, Loch Kinord
THE ROMAN CAMP HOTEL Off Main Street, Perthshire FK17 8BG Tel 01877 330003 www.romancamphotel.co.uk The Roman Camp Hotel’s exclusive Christmas Escape package includes afternoon tea, sherry, carol singers, champagne and a superb tasting menu on Christmas Eve, breakfast in bed, a five-course lunch, mulled wine and a buffet supper on Christmas Day, and a late breakfast and tasting menu at dinner on Boxing Day. ● foodies | 77
FOODIE TRAVEL MARBELLA
Hotel Hermitage We escaped from the heat of Marbella to the quiet rural setting of Hotel Hermitage on the road to Casares. This beautiful boutique hotel has just seven double rooms and eight suites. A swim in the freshwater pool is delightfully refreshing and it’s off to pick olives. Chef Roderic Williams uses the best local produce to create exotic and Mediterranean flavours; try scallops with bacon, beetroot and hazelnut, or rabbit tagine. The Christmas and New Year menu starts at ¤60 per person, with rooms from ¤77. www.hotelhermitage.es
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FOODIES FOCUS PRETHEATRE
Fairytale food You know that Christmas is on its way when pantomime posters start popping up. If buying gifts and stocking the pantry has you exhausted, treating the family to a pre-theatre meal and a show will put the fun back into the festive season. Oh yes it will… Words Rachael McConnell
ere’s our guide to the best shows around Glasgow, as well as some more unusual family restaurant suggestions for those who just can’t face any more roast turkey.
although the Japanese, Cantonese and Thai restaurant upstairs may provide a wider selection for younger kids. Yen Rotunda, 28 Tunnel Street, G3 8HL, Tel: 0141 847 0110, www.yenrotunda.com
The Magical Adventures of Peter Pan Glasgow Pavilion Theatre, Wed 30 Nov - Sat 21 Jan Tel: 0141 332 1846 www.paviliontheatre.co.uk Peter Pan would be glad to hear that kids are always welcome in DiMaggios Theatreland. This popular Italian restaurant chain offers all the usual favourites, with an extensive children’s menu. Kids get two courses and a drink for £5.95, and can fly around the indoor play area or enjoy a spot of colouring in. Di Maggio’s Theatreland, 7163 West Nile Street, G1 2RL, Tel: 0141 333 4999, www.dimaggios.co.uk
Sleeping Beauty King’s Theatre, Fri 2 Dec - Sun 8 Jan Tel: 0141 240 1122, www.atgtickets.com Forget the wintry weather outside when you step into the Andalucían atmosphere of Torres on Sauchiehall Street, an easy walking distance from the King’s Theatre. Smaller dishes make it easy for fussy kids to pick and choose, and a lighter supper means your little beauties are less likely to fall asleep in the theatre. Torres, 327 Sauchiehall Street, G2 3HU, Tel: 0141 332 6789, www.torrestapas.com
Robinson Crusoe and the Caribbean Pirates Clyde Auditorium, Sat 17 Dec - Sat 7 Jan Tel: 0844 395 4000 www.ticketsoup.com Before you sail the Caribbean seas with John Barrowman in Robinson Crusoe, pay a visit to the opposite side of the globe at Yen Rotunda. You have the choice of a dramatic teppanyaki restaurant on the ground floor, with flames and flying food, 80 | foodies
From top: Robinson Crusoe, Yen Rotunda, Di Maggios, Nur
Hansel and Gretel Citizens Theatre, Sat 3 Dec - Wed 7 Jan Tel: 0141 429 0022, www.citz.co.uk Although more suited to Aladdin’s Eastern setting, Middle Eastern restaurant Nur is a great pre-theatre and child-friendly venue for a visit to the Citizens: the menu includes a wide range of grill, tagine and pasta options. Learn from Hansel and Gretel and resist the temptation of the witch’s gingerbread house by filling up on some homemade baklava. Nur, 22 Bridge Street, G5 9HR, Tel: 0141 418 0990, www.nur-restaurant.co.uk
FOODIES OUT AND ABOUT
Out and about
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NATIONAL NUT DAY Fairtrade company Liberation Foods celebrated in typically nutty fashion
VIVA BRAZIL LAUNCH Glasgow got a taste of Rio’s carnival atmosphere at this carnivorous new restaurant
HOTEL MISSONI TRUFFLE MENU Giorgio Locatelli was on hand to guide his protégé Mattia Camorani 82 | foodies