R E C I P E
HAKE WITH CHANTERELLES, FINO, GARLIC AND JAMON
INGREDIENTS extra virgin olive oil 800g (approx) hake fillet 6 very large handful of chanterelles (they will shrink!) large knob of butter 4 large garlic cloves, finely copped 2 spring onions, finely sliced 150ml Fino, plus a little to finish the dish (drink the rest whilst you cook!) 250ml chicken stock (preferably made with a pig’s trotter as well) 2 tsp chives, chopped 2 tsp flat leaf parsley, finely chopped small handful serrano ham or pata negra, finely chopped
LIDO’S FREDDY BIRD MIXES THE FLAVOURS OF EARTH AND SEA, PAIRING THIS MONTH’S HERO WITH HAKE... I USED TO have a lot more time to go mushroom picking. I’d find wax caps on the Mendips, chanterelles, ceps, wood blewits, amethyst deceivers, hedgehogs, millers and the humble (but delicious) field mushroom over the bridge near Chepstow. I’ve even found a few boletus on the Downs before! I no longer have the time to pick mushrooms for the restaurant, but luckily have a fantastic forager who does, picking them only hours before we serve them. The difference in flavour is incomparable – if you want the tastiest wild mushrooms, pick them and eat them as soon as possible! Too often, wild mushrooms are shipped halfway across the continent, only to end up tasteless by the time you get them into your pan. If you don’t pick your own or aren’t confident in identifying them, try and buy when they are in season in the UK. If you do know what you are looking for, chanterelles are most commonly found in mature forests where oak, pine, birch and beech are predominant. Their colour can make them tricky to spot, though, in the fallen autumn leaves! This dish is utterly simple and relies on the freshest of chanterelles...
METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7. 2 Heat a little oil in an oven-proof frying pan and, once it’s hot, place the fish in, skin side down. Cook on the skin side for 2 minutes (do not be tempted to move the fish once in the pan), then transfer to the oven for around a further 6 minutes, or until cooked through. 3 Meanwhile, in a very hot pan, fry the mushrooms in a little extra virgin olive oil. Use the biggest pan you have – you don’t want to crowd the pan, as you want them to fry and colour, not stew. If necessary, cook them in small batches. 4 Once coloured all over, season the mushrooms well with salt and black pepper. Add a knob of butter and the garlic, followed by the spring onions. 5 Pour in the Fino to deglaze the pan, then leave over the heat to reduce by ⅔. Add the chicken stock and reduce again by about ⅓. 6 Next, chuck in the rest of the butter and agitate the pan until it has emulsified in the sauce. Add the chives and parsley, and lastly the jamon, along with a tiny splash more of Fino. 7 Serve in a shallow bowl or deep rimmed plate, with the fish sitting on top.
Lido, Oakfield Place, Bristol BS8 2BJ; 0117 933 9530; lidobristol.com