Crumbs Devon – Issue 25

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S T A R T E R S

That all sounds exciting, especially the stuff about the UK's growing wine industry. Are there any vineyards or wines that stand out for you? British wine has a very bright future, and has already shown that bottles produced here can compete at a very high level in terms of quality, particularly the sparkling wines. There are stunning examples from Nyetimber, which probably leads the field, along with Gusbourne. There’s also some great quality coming from Ridge View, Camel Valley, Chapel Down, Hambledon, Hattingley and Lyme Bay. In fact, there are a whole raft of exceptional wines and, if we have more great growing seasons like this year, we should see prices drop to a point where they become more accessible to a wider audience here in the UK. There seems to be a growing trend for natural and biodynamic wines. What does this mean, and are there real benefits? The reduction of pesticides, herbicides, fertilisers and additives used in the production of wine from the vineyard to the bottle can only be a good thing. However, there is some confusion about the differences between conventional, organic, and biodynamic wines, not to mention the new trend for natural wines. Conventional practices may use everything available to winemakers in order to maximise yields in the vineyard and in the winery during the winemaking process. Organic production does not allow the use of any chemicals in the vineyard, but it stops there, with no other guidelines. Biodynamic takes organics to the next level and, as well as no chemicals, the production takes a more holistic and intensive approach. With grape-growing, for example, natural fertilisers are produced on-site. Stems, skins and pips are composted and returned to the vineyard, so that everything that is taken out is then returned to assist with soil management. Biodynamics have been embraced by a growing number of vineyards in recent years, and are very beneficial to the environment. Natural wines are just what they say, with minimal intervention in the vineyard and no additives to the wine. However, this can lead to some volatility with wine production, as well as some bottle variation. Natural wines can, but don’t always, exhibit discolouration, oxidation and yeasty flavours, which are meant to be there – some find this appealing, and some do not. Good to know! What about region? Which countries should we be watching? Wine regions to look out for are the Alentejo and Dão in Portugal for both the reds, which are concentrated and full of fruit, and the whites, which can be wonderfully aromatic, fresh and balanced. In France, look away from the more classic regions and go to the south

TOP TIPPLES

Say we were stocking up for a big party or seasonal celebration, Steve. What wines should we be going for? Here are my recommendations for the wine rack... Champagne: Charles Heidsieck NV, France Sparkling: Nyetimber Classic Cuvée, Sussex, England Lighter, crisp, fruity style white: Lagar de Cervera Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain Richer, aromatic style white: Mattias Riccitelli Pinot Gris, Mendoza, Argentina Lighter style red: Emperor's Prize Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Australia Spicy, full bodied red: Tenuta Rapitalà Nero d’Avola, Sicily, Italy Dessert wine: Royal Tokaji Late Harvest, Hungary Blended Pedro Ximénez and Old Oloroso Sherry: Lustau East India Solera Sherry, Spain Fine aged Port: Graham’s 20-year-old Tawny, Portugal

west for the myriad of appellations within the Languedoc, whether it’s a crisp, sparkling Blanquette de Limoux, one of the incredible, luscious, amber-coloured sweet wines from Rivesaltes, or one of the rich, intensely flavoured reds from Minervois – all of which can be exceptional value for money. In New Zealand, venture away from Marlborough and seek out the wines from Central Otago, particularly the very challenging Pinot Noir, where some world-class examples can be found, and also to Hawke’s Bay on the North Island, where you can find rich but elegant reds produced from Syrah and Cabernet. Are people becoming braver with their wine choices? If so, what are they opting for? Customers on the high street and in restaurants have become braver, mainly due to the extensive choice available today. Also, there’s so much more information about wine available, verbally and online and in magazines, than there’s ever been. At Lympstone Manor, we’re very lucky to have six state of the art Wine Emotion machines, which allow us to sell wines by the glass and keep them in top condition for an extended period of time. For white wine we still see lots of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio sold, but also other interesting

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CRUMBSMAG.COM

single varietals, like Viognier, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Albariño, as well as a wider selection of blended whites that are receiving equal attention. The usual red wine suspects, like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Shiraz and Pinot Noir are now joined by Barbera, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Zinfandel and a raft of other exciting varietals and blends. Not going to lie, choosing wine can be an intimidating business for the nonoenophiles among us. What three tips would you give someone new to browsing the wine shelves? Firstly, always trade up if you can afford to. We have become a nation of deal junkies. The price of a pint of beer in a bar can reach £5 or more these days, so why not spend more on a whole bottle of wine? Secondly, spend a little more time selecting your wine, and not just always going for the particular wine style or brand that you are familiar with; try something different. Lastly, if you’re choosing wine for a special occasion or celebration, try to consider the food element when making your selection. A good food and wine pairing can enhance your meal experience considerably, whether you are at home or eating in a restaurant. lympstonemanor.co.uk


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