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The chef and cookbook author Simon Hopkinson recently said that, “Rachel Roddy describing how to boil potatoes would inspire me”, which is high praise indeed. And completely justified too, for Roddy is a unique voice in food writing and the closest we’ve had to Elizabeth David since the legendary food writer herself. For the past decade, Roddy has immersed herself in the culture of Italian cooking – mainly from Rome but also Sicily, where her partner is from. Splitting time between the two places, Roddy cooks family meals and sticks religiously to the seasons. This zesty chicken dish is from her latest cookbook, Two Kitchens: Family Recipes from Sicily and Rome.
ORANGES AND LEMONS GET YOUR CITRUS HIT FOR THE DAY WITH THIS ITALIAN-INSPIRED DISH FROM RACHEL RODDY
CHICKEN WITH CITRUS AND OLIVES SERVES 4
INGREDIENTS 2 unwaxed oranges 1 unwaxed lemon 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing 1 clove garlic 1 free-range chicken, jointed, or 8 thighs 100g green olives a sprig of fresh oregano or marjoram METHOD 1 In a bowl, whisk together the zest and juice of 1 orange and the juice of the lemon with the oil, and season with salt and pepper. 2 Crush the garlic gently with the back of a knife so that it remains whole and add to the marinade, along with the chicken, making sure each piece is covered. Cover with cling film and leave it for 4 hours, or overnight, in the fridge. 3 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. 4 Brush with oil an ovenproof dish or roasting tin that will hold the chicken in a single layer, add the chicken and pour over the marinade, which will come about halfway up the chicken. Add the olives and oregano, then slice the remaining orange and tuck the slices in between the chicken. Roast for 45 minutes. If the tops look as if they are browning too fast, cover the dish loosely with foil. 5 Once the chicken is cooked, assess the amount of liquid that remains. If there is a lot, lift out the chicken pieces and reduce the liquid to a thicker sauce in the roasting tin, or tip it into a pan and boil it hard until it is as thick as you would like, then pour it back over the chicken. I sometimes return the chicken to the oven while the sauce reduces to give colour to the undersides.
Two Kitchens: Family Recipes from Sicily and Rome by Rachel Roddy is published by Headline Home, £25; headline.co.uk
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