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Instruction Booklet for the 2 pleat cap

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I have used a remnant of 55cm long to make this hat and it’s lining pieces. I have cut out the side wall on the fold of the fabric and the lining sidewall on the fold

This pattern also has a video link on how to construct it - cut and paste the link into your browser

I have used tailors tacks to make the folds on the sidewall, so that I can sew in the pleats on the sidewall. You can also use an awl to pierce through the pattern and make small holes, to iron along, to get the pleat. Some people use chalk as well to mark the lines

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Tailor tacks are marked here in red thread

Tailor tacks are marked here in red thread

I then iron along the solid line to make a line with the iron, on the top line where the tailor tacks were. I then sew 1/2� away from this folded line, which will make it to a 1/2� pleat.

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sew pleats 1/2� away from the folded edge to get a 1/2� pleat. Sew the top pleat 1st, then the 2nd pleat underneath.

2nd pleat ironed down ready for sewing

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sewing the 2nd pleat. I double threaded the needle, so that I got a sadle stitched effect on the finished hat.

ironed and folded sewn pleats

outside of pleats

backside of pleats

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Next step is to iron the back seam flat

The hat now looks like this on the outside

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Crown pattern piece will now be ironed into quarters, so that it can be attached to the hat at right location, so that it sews together smoothly

Firstly fold the crown into quarters, making sure that it is evenly folded.

Iron in the quarters, can you see in this photo the iron marks, and I have also marked these quarters with pins

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Now with the sidewall, fold it in half from the back seam to the centre front and iron a centre front mark, then match that centre mark to the back seam, which will give you the sides, and iron them. In other words fold the sidewall into quarters, and iron marks in the same as you did with the crown, and these quarter marks get matched to the quarter marks in the crown, and then the whole thing is sewn together smoothly

Match the pins on the sidewall and the crown, at the quarter marks where you have pinned it.

Pin the crown to the sidewall, and sew the two pieces together following the seam allowance.

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Can you see where the quarter mark pins were matched together

On the inside I will iron the seam downwards towards the sidewall, to have a smoother looking crown on the outside. I assist my hat making by having made this ironing ham, in the shape of a kidney, and it’s helpful when ironing the inside and outside of the hat and being kidney shaped it’s easy to hold in your hand, and you can use the large or small sized edges.

I cut out two pieces of fusible iron on interfacing because I want to have a firmer brim, then iron it on to the backside of the fabric

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I cut out two pieces of fusible iron on interfacing because I want to have a firmer brim, then iron it on to the backside of the fabric

sew the lower edge of the peak together a machine foot width, or 6mm away from the edge

Turn to the right side out and iron flat

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This is how the hat looks at this stage. I iron the brim flat now in preparation for topstitiching

I have put the first row of stitching one machine foot width away from the edge of the brim. I then followed on and put another two rows of stitching again a machine foot width away from the edge, and next will sew at the top edge to secure the two edges together.

Sewn together at the top edge to secure the two edges together.

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Now the brim piece is being prepared to be sewn to the main hat. Fold the peak in half, and you iron or pin the half mark. Do the same with the brim, fold it in half, from the back seam, and make a mark which will make it the centre front of the hat, then pin the hat together, matching the centre marks.

Stitch the peak to the hat a 1/4� away from the edge.

The hat looks like this at this stage.

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Now the crown will be sewn to the sidewall, using the same method that was used for the hat above. by folding the quarters and matching them, and pinning and sewing together. The only difference is that an opening needs to be left in the back seam, where the pins are marked below. This hole will be used to turn the hat right side out, when it’s ready for completition.

Use the same method that was used for the hat above. by folding the quarters and matching them, and pinning and sewing together.

Pin and sew together following the seam allowance given on the pattern.

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Now the lining piece gets pinned and then sewn to the main hat. I use the quarter method again to sew the hat together. Iron the quarter marks in the main hat and lining piece. then pin the hat together, firstly matching the back seams rightsides of fabric together, then match the pins together.

Pin all around the hat, then it gets sewn up, and later turned to the right side through the hole in the back seam, which then gets slipped stitched together

Sew the lining to the main hat. I use a generous machine foot width away from the edge, a couple of millimetres over the 1/4� or 6mm allowance given, so that it incorporates where the brim was sewn on, and you dont see the stitching on the outside.

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The hat is turned to the right side out through the hole in the back inside seam of the hat.

Can you see the hole in the back seam of the hat

this hole gets slipped stitched up or machine stitched closed.

Finished hat

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Instruction Booklet 2 pleat hat