Alison Lou's JEWEL BOX
10 T H I N G S T O L OV E ABOUT
Issue No. 38 MARCH 2014
ÂŠ 2014 Target Brands, Inc. The Bullseye Design is a registered trademark of Target Brands, Inc. 034302
Style glowS under the Starlight. Live with what you love. The Nate Berkus collection from 12.99.
MARC H 2014
I S S U E N o. 38
THE MATCHBOOK GIRL TR AVELS THE WORLD WITH HER CAMER A . PL AYS TUNES WHILE SHE WORKS. IS NEVER TOO OLD TO PL AY DRESS UP. LOVES A GOOD FRINGE. PR AC TICES HER PENMANSHIP. APPRECIATES A CLEVER EMOTICON. WORSHIPS WES ANDERSON. HAS AN APPETITE FOR ADVENTURE.
COVER: ALISON LOU
at her midtown Manhattan showroom, wearing Stella McCartney and Alison Lou jewelry Photography by Carol Dronsfield
C O NT E N T S
STAPLES 12 DATE BOOK 10 NOTE FROM
K ATIE + JANE
8 MONTH IN REVIEW 14 EDITOR’S WISH LISTS
Brooklyn Bound On the Fringe Home on the Range
82 JUST MARRIED 86 ODDS & ENDS
22 10 THINGS YOU DIDN'T KNOW ABOUT...
24 KINDRED SPIRIT
CONTE NT S
LIVING 14 CULTURE CLUB
Wes Anderson's The Grand Budapest Hotel
20 10 THINGS WE
LOVE ABOUT SPRING
FEATURES 26 THE MODERN ATELIER
Nedenia Hutton Craig and Stephanie Brag, cofounders of Dee Hutton
44 NIB AND INK
At home in Charlottesville, VA with artist Stephanie Fishwick
66 CHEEKY CHIC
A visit with Alison Chemla, founder of Alison Lou, at her new showroom
A L O O K BAC K AT T H E M AT C H B O O K G I R L ' S F E B R UA RY
FOLLOW ALONG ON OUR INSTAGRAM ADVENTURES!
DINED WITH FRIENDS AT THE DESIGN DARLING BRUNCH
@matchbookmag @jane_lilly @katiearmour
SNOWY STROLL IN CENTRAL PARK
QUICK TRIP HOME TO CALIFORNIA
GALLERY HOPPING IN CHELSEA
A NIGHT AT THE BALLET!
HEADED UP TO HARLEM TO HEAR SOME JAZZ
METALLICS ON THE TRACY REESE RUNWAY
MATCHBOXES ON SET WITH ALISON LOU – OUR KIND OF GAL!
LOVE THE SELECTION AT BIRD IN WILLIAMSBURG
ALWAYS STOP FOR FRESH BLOOMS!
BOOKS UPON BOOKS. LET THE PACKING BEGIN!
N O T E FROM
Katie + Jane
AT LONG LAST IT'S MARCH, AND BOY, DOES IT FEEL GOOD!
We're counting down the days until we can officially spring forward into sunnier evenings with daffodils in bloom. In celebration of spring and its promise of a fresh start, we've decided to celebrate four inspiring women that have thrown themselves into exciting new endeavors. Nedenia Hutton Craig and Stephanie Brag, of the luxury made-toorder label Dee Hutton, launched just last year and have already hit 10
their stride. They aim to bring some glamour back into the shopping experience, and judging by the champagne offered upon entering their showroom, they're right on track. After a long career in graphic design, calligrapher Stephanie Fishwick decided to refocus on more personal creative pursuits. Today she's the proud owner of her own studio offering calligraphy, lettering, illustration, and design. We fell in love with her cozy Virginia abode and have a feeling you will too.
Last but not least, cover girl Alison Chemla of Alison Lou is putting her own spin on fine jewelry. Her playful first collection was inspired by emoticons (it's okay to smile, we did too),and her second features nature-inspired motifs, such as lovers' tree trunk carvings. We can't get enough of Alison's tongue-in-chic designs and can't wait to see what she comes up with for collection three. We hope you walk away from this issue inspired to try something new! KATIE + JANE
Photographer Charlottesville, VA
Photographer New York, NY
THE MATCHBOOK TEAM K ATIE ARMOUR
co-founder editorial director
JANE LILLY WARREN
co-founder creative director
global sales firstname.lastname@example.org CATHY HIGGERSON
JORDAN BL ASER
DA T E2 014 BOOK
HAPPY WOMEN’S HISTORY MONTH!
IT’S OSCAR NIGHT!
QUEEN ELIZABETH KNIGHTED CHARLIE CHAPLIN. (1975)
POET ELIZABETH BARRETT BROWNING WAS BORN IN DURHAM, ENGL AND. (1806)
WES ANDERSON’S THE GRAND BUDAPEST HOTEL HITS THEATERS TODAY!
IN FRANCE, BARONESS DE L AROCHE BECAME THE FIRST WOMAN TO OBTAIN A PILOT’S LICENSE. (1910)
SPRING FORWARD – IT’S DAYLIGHT SAVINGS!
LEVI STRAUSS STARTED SELLING BELL-BOTTOM JEANS. (1969)
NATIONAL PL ANT A FLOWER DAY
PHOTOGRAPHER DIANE ARBUS WAS BORN IN NEW YORK. (1923)
MY FAIR L ADY STARRING JULIE ANDREWS OPENED ON BROADWAY. (1956)
HAPPY ST. PATRICK’S DAY!
THE FIRST MASTERS GOLF TOURNAMENT TOOK PL ACE IN AUGUSTA, GEORGIA. (1934)
ARETHA FRANKLIN, THE QUEEN OF SOUL, WAS BORN IN MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE. (1942)
PL AYWRIGHT TENNESSEE WILLIAMS WAS BORN IN COLUMBUS, MISSISSIPPI. (1911)
EIGHTIES POP ICON CYNDI L AUPER RELEASED “TIME AFTER TIME.” (1984)
PHIL ANTHROPIST BROOKE ASTOR WAS BORN IN PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE. (1902)
THE EIFFEL TOWER OFFICIALLY OPENED. (1889)
C U LT U R E C L U B
welcome to the REPUBLIC OF ZUBROWKA! In celebration of Wes Anderson's new film, The Grand Budapest Hotel, we thought we'd share the inside scoop on our favorite fictional country. See you in theaters on March 7th! •
WES ANDERSON MADE UP HIS NEW STORY WITH THE HELP OF HIS FRIEND, HUGO GUINNESS. A BROOKLYN-BASED ARTIST, WE’VE LONG BEEN FANS OF HUGO’S CLEVER PRINTS.
ANDERSON’S FILM IS SET IN A FICTIONAL EUROPEAN NATION NAMED ZUBROWKA.
• THE ENTIRE MOVIE WAS FILMED IN THE
SMALL EAST GERMAN CITY OF GÖRLITZ (POPULATION 54,000) ON THE CZECH/ POLISH BORDER.
• THE HOTEL IN THE MOVIE WAS INSPIRED BY THE GRANDHOTEL PUPP IN KARLOVY VARY, CZECH REPUBLIC.
• ANDERSON’S OPULENT HOTEL WAS
CREATED IN A FORMER DEPARTMENT STORE CALLED GÖRLITZER WARENHAUS THAT HAD SEEN BETTER DAYS. HIS TEAM MOVED THEIR PRODUCTION HEADQUARTERS INTO THE UPSTAIRS OFFICES AND THE DOWNSTAIRS WAS TRANSFORMED INTO A GRAND MOVIE SET. WES HAD DISCOVERED THE HOTEL HIMSELF ON A SOLO SCOUTING TRIP.
• WES TRAVELED FROM LOCATION TO
LOCATION ON A GOLF CART AND COULD
OFTEN BE SEEN SPEEDING THROUGH GÖRLITZ’S SNOW-COVERED STREETS.
• FOR DESIGN REFERENCES, ANDERSON AND
HIS TEAM REFERRED TO PHOTOCHROM IMAGES FROM 1895 TO 1910 IN THE US LIBRARY OF CONGRESS ARCHIVES.
BROOKLYN BOUND K ATIE ARMOUR , E DITORIAL DIREC TOR
Prime pieces for my move across the East River. 2 4
5 6 3
1. Cashmere Concert Tee, Steven Alan, $1952. Mast Brothers Stumptown Coffee Chocolate Bar, Dean & Deluca, $10 3. Stacking Wood Trays, Anthropologie, $128 4. Arc Cuff, Lady Grey, $265 5. Fig Mason Jar Candle, Steven Alan, $80 6. Alix Peep-Toe Bootie, Loeffler Randall, $350 7. Reilly Sunglasses, Warby Parker, $95 8. John Derian Brooklyn Bridge Decoupage Tray, Neiman Marcus, $106 9. Swirled Geode Knob, Anthropologie, $18 10. Monogrammed Necklace, Blanca Monr贸s G贸mez, $620
E D I TOR'S
w i sh li st
1. Design Brooklyn by Anne Hellman, Anthropolgie, $40 2. Potted Hoya Plant, The Sill, $38 3. Signature Tote Bag, Catbird, $10 4. Throw Pillow, Rebecca Atwood, $2005. Excel Desk Lamp, Roll & Hill, $390 6. Green Tufted Velvet Round Ottoman, Cost Plus World Market, $71 7. Brooklyn Nets Hat, The Nets Store, $26 8. 2013 Willow 3, Brooklyn Bicycle Co., $579 9. Russian Imperial Crimson Anemone Earrings, The Met Store, $85 10. Ikat Pillow, Jayson Home, $150
ON THE FRINGE
JANE LILLY WARRE N , CRE ATIVE DIREC TOR
Textured edges give a hint of playfulness for spring.
1. Gold Tassel Key Chain, Design Darling, $30 2. Fringed Denizen Drops, Anthropologie, $448 3. Deepa Gurnani Fringed Layered Necklace, Shopbop, $298 4. Strappy Fringed Cami, Topshop, $52 5. Jute Border Rug in Metallic Silver, Serena & Lily, $48 6. Glacial Fringe Pouf, Anthropologie, $298 7. Leslie Fringe Tote, Calypso St. Barth, $495 8. Ash Nolita Bootie in Neutral, Bergdorf Goodman, $250 16
E D I TOR'S
w i sh li st 2
1. Ro Sham Beaux Monica Table Lamp, Zinc Door, $527 2. PCH Laundered Linen Coral Decorative Pillow, Zinc Door, $132 3. Tory Burch Tassel Charm Bracelet, Nordstrom, $125 4. Milly Embellished Stretch-Knit Top, Net-a-Porter, $340 5. Riviera Throw, Barneys, $295 6. Tory Burch Thea Crossbody Bag, Saks Fifth Avenue, $435 7. Daybed at Dawn Sleep Shorts in Ivory, Modcloth, $35 8. Visconti & Du Reau Maui Thong Sandal, Barneys, $350 9. Fringed Ponte Pencil Skirt, Anthropologie, $168 matchbook 17
HOME ON THE RANGE
J ORDAN B L A S E R , DES IG N INTE RN
Timeless pizzazz, inspired by my Utah roots. 6 5
1. Givenchy Small Double Cone Shark earring in faux turquoise, Net-A-Porter, $470 2. Studded Velvet Pillow Cover in Horseradish, West Elm, $31 3. The Beat of Your Art Dress, Modcloth, $50 4. La Mer Collections Studded Wrap Watch, Shopbop, $97 5. Dior Hypnotic Poison, Sephora, $750 6. Kotur Morley Snakeskin Clutch, Neiman Marcus, $595 7. The Kings County Distillery Guide to Urban Moonshining, Amazon, $16 8. Hank Bookends, Jayson Home, $150 9. rag & bone Newbury Bootie,
E D I TOR'S
w i sh li st
1. Rapid City Blues Jacket, Modcloth, $60 2. Denim Western Shirt in Pale Indigo, J.Crew, $78 3. Admirable Angles Necklace, Modcloth, $15 4. Horn Ice Bucket, Jayson Home, $195 5. Rio Concho Saddle Blanket, Pendleton, $149 6. Leather and Fur Sling Chair, West Elm, $899 7. Reclaimed Wood Side Table, Anthropologie, $298 8. Alisa Bobzien Somewhere With You Art Print, Urban Outfitters, $24 9. Deer Head Hook, Urban
T H I N G S W E L OV E A B O U T
BASEBALL SEASON Catch your home team at the ballpark. NY Yankees Cap, MLB Shop, $30
LIGHTER LAYERS Hang up your wool coat and invest in a light-weight cardigan. We’re crazy about pattern this spring.
Luxlight StripedCardigan, Gap, $50
OPEN-TOED SHOES Be pedicure prepared!
BARE LEGS It’s almost time to kiss those tights goodbye!
Deborah Lippmann Nail Color in Blue Orchid Nordstrom, $18 Jude Scallop Sandal , Loeffler Randall, $195
Scallop Hem Shorts, Topshop, $64
SUBTLE SCENTS Swap out your winter perfume for something light and airy. We love floral or citrus. 20
Tory Burch Eau de Parfum Nordstrom, $60
Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau de Toillette, Nordstrom, $75
DAYLIGHT SAVINGS Spring forward on March 9 and savor the evening sunlight.
Petite Alarm Clock, Ballard Designs, $59
SPRING CLEANING Dust off those winter blues – it’s time for a fresh start!
Feather Duster, Brook Farm General Store, $45
FLOWER POWER Spruce up your home or jewelry box with a fresh floral motif.
Jenny Boudoir Sham, Biscuit Home, $55 Kate Spade Mod Flora Stud Earrings, Nordstrom, $58
DINING ALFRESCO Stock up your picnic basket with savory treats. Verlaine Chair, Industry West, $175 Picnic Basket, Williams-Sonoma, $100
FRESH BLOOMS Can you smell the cherry blossoms? Gardens will soon be back in bloom.
Spanish Lavender, Terrain, $58 All-Purpose PrunerTerrain, $48
PORTRAIT OF A L ADY
1 0 T H I N G S YO U D I D N ' T K N OW A B O U T. . .
LEE MILLER American photographer and fashion model Elizabeth “Lee” Miller (1907– 1977) lived life fearlessly. A small-town girl from Poughkeepsie, New York, Miller went on to travel the globe, documenting wars and creating art. Though well-known as the model, muse, and lover of Man Ray, Miller was a major contributor to the Surrealist movement in her own right. Read on for an intimate look at the adventurous Matchbook girl.
Miller’s young life was plagued by tragedy. At only seven years old, she was raped by a family friend and contracted a venereal disease. Her recovery was long and painful.
In 1927 she was discovered by Condé Nast himself when he pulled her from the path of an oncoming car. That March an illustration of the blond-haired, blueeyed Miller graced the cover of Vogue magazine.
In Paris she walked into Man Ray’s
studio and announced, “I’m your new student.” He made an exception to his rule of no apprentices.
Miller starred in Jean Cocteau's film The Blood of a Poet (1930). In it she played an armless statue.
On July 19, 1934, she married Aziz Eloui Bey, a well-to-do Egyptian, and moved to Cairo. It was in Egypt that she photographed her masterpiece, Portrait of Space (1937), taken in the Western Desert.
During her 1942 travels in Romania, she was massaged by a bear. She’d sought out a bear hotel and had her friend capture the incident on her Rolleiflex. While she was lying down on a carpet the bear walked up and down Miller’s back on all fours. “It was crushing and exhilarating,” she later wrote.
Miller disobeyed the U.S. Embassy’s request to return stateside upon the outbreak of WWII. Instead, she fearlessly followed the Allied troops as a war correspondent for Vogue.
Her reportage included everything from the front line to the concentration camps.
In 1945, after Munich surrendered to the Americans, Miller and her friend David Scherman, a Life magazine photographer, were among the first to arrive at Hitler’s private apartment. That night she slept in Hitler’s bed and was photographed bathing in his bathtub, a now iconic WWII image.
Pablo Picasso was a friend and lover. He painted Miller several times and in return, she would photograph him.
Her later life was spent on Farley Farm in East Sussex, England, with her second husband, artist and biographer Sir Roland Penrose. She packed up her cameras – why, no one is certain – and focused her efforts on becoming a gourmet cook. matchbook
LEE reim agined fo r a new age
APARTMENT AND WARDROBE
1. Oscar de la Renta Drop Earrings, Shopbop, $275 2. Equipment Lucinda Dress, Neta-Porter, $290 3. Diane von Furstenberg iPhone Cover, Net-a-Porter, $504. Fujifilm Instax Mini 90 Neo Classic Camera, Urban Outfitters, $200 5. Kate Spade Luggage Tag, Nordstrom, $58 6. Skipping Through the City Flat, ModCloth, $55 7. Clare V Large Duffle,
Net-a-Porter, $630 8. Faux-Straw Cloche, Orvis, $39 9. Classic Trench, Gap, $128 10. Vogue Cover, January 1947, Art.com, $157 11. EstĂŠe Lauder Modern Muse, Nordstrom, $58 12. Elizabeth and James Velde Ring, Shopbop, $125 13. Flatiron Nylon Davie, Kate Spade, $60 14. World Travel Journal, Graphic Image, $60 15. Curiosity Vase, Kelly Wearstler, $1,125 16. Lee Miller in Fashion by Becky E. Conekin, Amazon, $32 matchbook
ATEL IE R THE MODERN
EDENIA HUTTON CRAIG HAD ALWAYS KNOWN SHE WANTED TO LAUNCH A FASHION BRAND, BUT IT WASN'T UNTIL SHE MET HER BEST FRIEND, STEPHANIE BRAG, THAT SHE FOUND HER PERFECT PARTNER-IN-CRIME. LAST YEAR, THE TWO FORMER
BROWN UNIVERSITY CLASSMATES LAUNCHED DEE HUTTON, A MODERN TAKE ON OLD-WORLD ATELIERS FOR TODAY'S TRENDSETTER. UNLIKE BUYING OFF THE RACK, DEE HUTTON'S LUXURY MADE-TO-ORDER PIECES ARE TAILORED SPECIFICALLY FOR EACH CUSTOMER AND CAN BE MADE IN A VARIETY OF COLORS AND FABRICS. FROM BOLD COCKTAIL DRESSES TO GLAMOROUS FLOOR-LENGTH GOWNS, EACH PIECE IS PRODUCED ENTIRELY IN NEW YORK CITY. NEDENIA, THE GREAT-GRANDDAUGHTER OF SOCIETY ICON MARJORIE MERRIWEATHER POST, SERVES AS THE COLLECTION DESIGNER, WHILE STEPHANIE USES HER BACKGROUND IN COMMUNICATIONS TO OVERSEE OPERATIONS. THE MATCHBOOK TEAM CAUGHT UP WITH THE TWO STYLISH ENTREPRENEURS IN THEIR UNION SQUARE SHOWROOM TO SEE WHERE THE MAGIC HAPPENS.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROL DRONSFIELD
When did you two decide to go into business together?
What inspired you to start a fashion line?
N: My family is dressNedenia: I always knew up obsessed. My greatgrandmother used that I would someday to throw outrageous start my own fashion costume balls, and my company, but I also grandmother saved knew that to do so, many of the gowns. I would need to find This love of dressing up my perfect business is truly what inspired partner, the yin to my the idea behind Dee yang. By the end of Hutton â€“ creating a f reshman year, I had company where I get to my eye on Stephanie. From making sure that design pieces not just I got to class on time to for my customers, but with them. Our madebeing the first and last to-order business model person on the dance allows me to play dress floor with me every night, I knew that I had up with fantastic ladies all day. found my "yin."
the family who taught me about standing out through one-of-a-kind pieces. S: My grandmother, who is one of the most elegant and impeccably dressed women I know. How does the Dee Hutton experience differ from shopping at other labels?
N: I used to go on appointments with my mother and grandmother to designers' studios, back when made-to-order was more prevalent. It's such a luxury to actually work with the designer to customize to your taste and specification â€“ trying S: Having had a career things on and working Stephanie: By the in public relations with fabrics and color end of junior year the and marketing, I was combinations. You have seed had been planted, always interested in champagne, laugh, and get but we both knew building a business inspired. I wanted to offer that we needed to do f rom the ground up. that to my contemporaries, our own thing first. Being able to manage but with a more youthful, After Brown, I spent and influence every fun take on the traditional four years working in part of this business is process. I can't tell you communications at amazing. It's crazy at how many events I have Bono's AIDS charity, times, but if it gets too been to where the same (RED). I knew the only serious, Nedenia has me beautiful dress is worn way I would ever leave try something on with by two or more guests. would be for the perfect a funny hat and post it Spending thousands of opportunity â€“ where I on Instagram. dollars to look exactly the could build something same makes me sad. f rom scratch with Who in your life has someone extremely talented. Of course, it's influenced your personal Who is your dream client? style? an added bonus when N: I hate to narrow the that person is your best N: My mother. She's field with age or size. If f riend! the fashion renegade of I had to choose, Allison matchbook
Williams wears everything beautifully. And Aerin Lauder is a girl crush.
N: Fabric inspiration plays a huge role, as does color. I add pieces to my collection all the time. My process S: I'd choose our allows me the f reedom mothers' stylish f riends. to develop pieces when And Olivia Palermo. I want and when the mood strikes. I am What inspired your not bound by specific second collection? seasons, as I don't wholesale. I show when N: It was inspired by the collection is ready. 1960s sporty and retro Our clients don't need American glamour â€“ to wait four to six effortless, yet dramatic. months between the time a collection shows What is your design and when it ships. process like, from start to There's only a three f inish? to four week window f rom the time a piece is 34
ordered to the time it is shipped, and it could be less time, depending on how intricate the customizaton is. Spring is just around the corner. What are you most looking forward to wearing? N: My Gianvito Rossi blue metallic pumps and my new blush leather Dee Hutton jacket.
S: I can't wait to wear my new Dee Hutton Bella Dress in this novelty metallic suede that I found with Nedenia, when I tagged along on a sourcing trip. And I'm looking forward to ditching my tights! Your showroom is such a fun place. Do you have a favorite decorating f ind? N: Most of my favorite things in the showroom are made by us â€“ our gold antler chandeliers, which I painted and adorned with gold chain, and the picture with the pressed flower petals that I made f rom the sunflower Stephanie gave me on the day we launched. What are your dreams for Dee Hutton? S: Our dreams for Dee Hutton are coming true, and we are only launching our second collection! We are so blessed to have great f riends and clients who keep us busy. N: I'm just hoping to keep our showroom as buzzing as it is right now. And to continue to make a living doing what we love.
Matchbook Questionnaire Tea or coffee? Red Bull I collect… Jewelry
Favorite city? New York
Spring or fall? Fall
Bloom of choice? Yellow roses Style icon? My mom
China pattern? Herend Cornucopia
I ’m lusting after… A giant Nick Brandt photograph and cronuts
Most prized possession? My dress up collection Girl crush? Chelsea Handler and Doutzen Kroes Boy crush? Tom Ford
On weekends… I get inspired.
Matchbook Questionnaire Tea or coffee? Coffee
I collect… Antique perfume bottles Favorite city? Paris
Spring or fall? Spring
Bloom of choice? Bougainvillea
Style icon? Kate Middleton
China pattern? Sincerely Yours by Gloria Vanderbilt I ’m lusting after… Cajun chicken f rom Le Bilboquet
Most prized possession? A diamond and ruby ring that was passed down to me f rom four generations Girl crush? Charlotte Casiraghi Boy crush? Armie Hammer
On weekends… I like to recharge or play sports. matchbook
FO L LOW DEE HUT T O N Facebook • Twitter • Instagram • Pinterest 42
nib and ink Photography by Andrea Hubbell
One glance at Stephanie Fishwick's lyrical penmanship and we were smitten. The Charlottesville-based artist runs her own multi-disciplinar y studio where she specializes in calligraphy, illustration, lettering, and design. A new mom, she treasures being able to work f rom home with her baby boy nearby and her favorite vinyl spinning on the turntable. From custom wedding suites to whimsical watercolors, Stephanie's work always showcases her trademark off-beat flair. Matchbook visited the calligrapher in the charming English cottage she and her husband call home for a peek at Stephanie's inspirations, aspirations, and all the lovely details in between. matchbook
Have you always been drawn to art and design? Definitely. I started drawing and painting as soon as I could. My paternal grandmother was a painter and illustrator. My maternal grandfather was a painter and playwright, and I inherited his drafting table. Growing up, I spent hours mulling over their enormous, leather portfolios in our basement, staring at their work on reams of thick watercolor papers and drawing pads. I inherited my grandmotherâ€™s enormous portfolio and art bin full of supplies. We have framed a lot of her work, so itâ€™s all over our house, which is cool. I still use a few of her 48
calligraphy pens to this day! Growing up, who encouraged you to pursue a creative profession? My parents were very supportive; I think it was just assumed that I would always be in the arts. Although I considered the fine arts a career, I ultimately graduated from art school with a degree in graphic design and worked in the field for eight years. I always worked with pen and ink in my spare time, and incorporated illustration and bookmaking or collage into my design when I could. Two years ago, my calligraphy work eclipsed the design work and I was able to transition completely to calligraphy and illustration.
Where did you learn calligraphy? I found a master calligrapher – now painter – in my town, who studied under two of the most prominent calligraphers of her generation. She wasn’t taking any students, so I basically had to talk her into giving me a month of private lessons, which she finally agreed to after much begging. She taught me Italic, a style of calligraphy written with a broad nib. I needed more instruction in pointed pen, so I also joined the Washington Calligraphers Guild and signed up for workshops. One of my favorites was solely about inks and paper. The most 50
significant workshop I took was a Copperplate intensive weekend with Pat Blair, the White House Chief Calligrapher and Master Penman. Tell us about your trip to Mélodies Graphiques in Paris. In 2009 my husband and I were in Paris for a week to celebrate our first anniversary. We went to Le Marais to shop at Papier Plus, a paper shop that sells French handmade sketchbooks and portfolios. I was just continuing to dabble in calligraphy at that point. It was fate that we stumbled upon Mélodies Grafiques, and because it was across the street
from Papier Plus, I had to go in! I just about cried over the beauty in that little shop. It is filled with gorgeous paper, pens, nibs, inks, hand-bound books, cards, and more. Visiting there was an incredibly important experience for me. I was hooked! Calligraphy is so tactile; I think the process of calligraphy is what has brought me back to this medium over and over. It’s relaxing. The feel of the inks and paper, the sound of the nib scratching across the page – all of that came together while sitting on the side of the Seine, as I tested out my purchases from Mélodies Graphiques.
What was it like to learn from the White House Chief Calligrapher Pat Blair? I learned Copperplate from Pat at a two-day intensive workshop at an arts studio in Virginia. It was a serious and focused class. She is a Master Penman, so her work is flawless. She is also a great teacher, particularly when it comes to dispensing and clarifying the type of minutiae involved in drawing letterforms. I showed her some of my work during lunch one day while we were chatting. I could tell she wasn’t into some of it. But she was so kind about it, critiquing the tightness of some of my spirals and swirls and explaining how the eye wants to see
a flourish. Taking that workshop was fundamental for me. I finally had a handle on Copperplate and felt that I was ready to take my own scripts to another level and refine them based on her reaction. I have taken her advice by opening up some of my flourishes, but I don’t think I will ever completely leave those crazy scribbles behind! How many different styles can you write and how did you come to your signature style? I can write in lots of different styles – maybe 20. Too many if you ask me! I have tried to hone the three that I’m best at, and that clients seem to love, with pointed pen. But I have other styles I do with different types of nibs and ruling pens. I have written in a distinct style since I began learning calligraphy. Meanwhile I was looking at favorite influences, Saul Steinberg and early matchbook
Andy Warhol, who both incorporated a messy style of calligraphy into their work, and Bernard Maisner and Elvis Swift. Emily Snyder and Maybelle Imasa-Stukuls have been doing modern calligraphy for a long time before me, and their work paved the way for, and has influenced, mine. What have been some of your favorite projects? One of my all-time favorite projects was for the DJ JAZ, who does these totally outerlimits cosmic disco and italo edits! For his latest twelve-inch he commissioned the B-side label to have a crest that depicts him as an astronaut with his name, the label’s name, little lions, loafers with his initials, antelope supporters, and a fleur-de-lis – it's epic! Another favorite project was penning matching tattoos for a couple’s tenyear wedding anniversary. I’m also really excited about an upcoming matchbook
collaboration with One King’s Lane. Do you have a favorite part of the creative process? My favorite part of my work is turning up the music in my studio and going into a whirlwind of making – exploring different ideas I have had floating around, drawings, sketches, or trying out new styles. It's my playtime. I just turn off the critical mind and go with whatever I want to make that day! Sometimes there is a eureka moment; sometimes I throw everything away after I'm done. Either way, I think that’s the most fun part about calligraphy! Where do you look for inspiration? I am inspired by anything chic but also left field. I need that weird factor. Work that speaks to tradition but has romance and darkness. Mono no aware. I am inspired by artists like: Saul 62
distance, and he just had to leave the city life. I was falling in love with Charlottesville, too! We both came here from big cities. He lived here in high school but didnâ€™t see the charm then. He hated it here! He came back a couple of years before I did, thinking How long have you been the move was temporary, living in Charlottesville? but the place got under What do you love about it? his skin. We love how I moved here in 2008; Charlottesville has the my now husband and amenities of small town I were dating longlife with the cultural Steinberg, Paula Scher, Bernard Maisner, RenĂŠ Gruau, Maira Kalman, and Ludwig Bemelmans. Music inspires me day in and day out. I often get ideas for things to calligraph from songs. The more cathartic the tunes the better!
vibe of a bigger city. We love being able to walk everywhere, work from home, the slower pace, and the downtown charm with the countryside surrounding the town. You have quite the record collection. What do you listen to while you work? My husband and I are both huge music people, and yeah, music is such a part of our life. When I am working, matchbook
I tend toward a more moody vibe. Erik Satie is a favorite. Every spring I revisit old Shoegaze playlists – this week I’ve been listening to a lot of Medicine, Slowdive, Lush, Ride, Cocteau Twins, and Kitchens of Distinction. I have been really getting into Mac Demarco recently and am looking forward to his new album coming out. I am most proud of my huge collection of '60s and '70s French pop and Bollywood and Filmi music. Your baby boy is darling. How has being a mother influenced, inspired, or changed you? He is, isn’t he! I think having my son was the biggest catalyst to taking my calligraphy seriously two years ago. During maternity leave, I thought a lot about my vocation and maximizing work time and what I wanted to do next. His constant curiosity and wonderment with the world is infectious. I’m also inspired to one day become as awesome a dancer as he is! 64
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S t e ph a n ie's M a tchb ook Q u e st i o n n a ire
TEA OR COFFEE? Coffee I COLLECT...
Wire insects, Steve Keene paintings, blue and white porcelain dishes, and vintage cocktail glasses FAVORITE CITY? Paris SPRING OR FALL? Spring BLOOM OF CHOICE? Orchids
(We had orchids everywhere in our wedding.) STYLE ICON?
Jane Birkin and
Eclectic chinoiserie I’M LUSTING AFTER...
A ‘79 MG convertible to drive around the country roads MOST PRIZED POSSESSION?
engagement ring GIRL CRUSH?
BOY CRUSH? Ian
McCulloch, Dave Gahan, and my husband, of course! I'm dreaming of warm Saturdays at the farmers market, strolling around drinking coffee and eating tacos. ON WEEKENDS...
C H EE K Y C H IC P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y CAROL DRONSFIELD
for her inaugural jewelry collection came from one of the least expected places – her text messages. The New York native realized emoticons were able to communicate something in a fun and playful way that she admired – why not wear them? Smiles in hand, Alison Lou was launched in 2013 with a seriously chic lookbook starring family friend and HBOGirls star Jemima Kirke. The clever line was immediately picked up by hip boutiques, like uptown’s Fivestory New York, and has been flourishing ever since. We paid a visit to the sweet-as-pie designer in her new showroom to get the inside scoop. 68
YOU GREW UP HERE IN NEW YORK. HOW DID THE CIT Y S H A P E Y O U C R E AT I V E LY ?
Growing up in New York comes with access to some of the best museums, restaurants, theater, and fashion in the world. The people watching in this city has also been incredibly influential in shaping me creatively. I still remember seeing a vintage locket on a stranger at The Met that came scream70
ing back to me when I first started sketching. The city is constantly evolving, while always staying true to itself – a key attribute I hope is evident in my collection as it grows. W H E R E D I D Y O U G O T O U ND E R G R A D A N D W H AT D I D YOU STUDY?
I went to Bard College and studied art history. It was such a stark contrast to the way I grew up – the exposure to nature I had on a
day-to-day basis is definitely evident in my collection. WHEN DID YOU DREAM UP THE IDEA TO L AUNCH A JEWELRY LINE?
Jewelry has always been an important part of the way I express myself, but it wasn’t until I came up with something I believed to be fresh and unique that I considered pursuing it as a career. Prior to Alison Lou, I was working in marketing and often found myself us
ing emoticons. It was quick and to the point, but more importantly, it was lighthearted. It was only a matter of time before I came up with the idea to combine emoticons and jewelry –two subjects that were seemingly unrelated, but worked so well together. I started my collection with six large pendants and ended up launching with ninety pieces! CAN YOU TELL US A BIT ABOUT Y O U R L A U N C H PA R T Y ?
I launched my company on November 28, 2012, right after the worst of Hurricane Sandy was over. I had been planning the party for months, and it was meant to be on the roof at The Jane hotel. Due to the storm, the elevators stopped working, so with two days notice I had to come up with an entirely different venue. I moved the party to my godmother’s townhouse on Tenth Street, and it ended up being more perfect than I could ever have imagined. It was beautiful, and most importantly, intimate and filled with family. W H O I N Y O U R L I F E H A S FA B U L O U S TA S T E I N J E W E L R Y ?
My mother. From a young age, she taught me to make classic yet fun choices when accessorizing. Complementing effortless outfits with statement pieces was advice I was given since I first discovered my love of jewelry. Statement pieces didn’t have to mean incredibly loud, flashy items that took over my identity, but could be subtle and highlight how I was feeling at any given time. I have learned that the key to style
is to add something special taste with theirs. For my to something simple. second collection, once I H O W D O Y O U G O A B O U T came up with the concept, F I N D I N G I N S P I R AT I O N F O R I went to the Marché aux EACH COLLECTION? Puces in Paris and shopped For my first collection, I all of the vintage jewelry went straight to my Black- shops. I think this collecberry (back in 2011), and tion effectively balances as a start, took the most new and old world. There commonly used emoti- are clear classic influences, cons, and sketched them in but through the eyes of a a variety of ways to ensure modern girl. they would translate well W H O I S Y O U R D R E A M A L Iinto jewelry. I worked with S O N L O U–S P O R T I N G G I R L ? feedback from the client Beyonce. She’s flawless. and tried to balance my
W H AT J E W E L R Y P I E C E S D O Y O U W E A R O N A D A I LY B A SIS?
That’s a difficult question! I am almost always wearing my watch, which was a gift from my parents for my twenty-fifth birthday. Alison Lou–wise, it is constantly changing. I wear at least two necklaces, six rings, two bracelets, and five earrings, comprised of both collections. They mix subtly together so it doesn’t feel like too much. Getting feedback from friends or even strangers on what I am wearing has been an incredibly important research tool for me, and has shaped a lot of what I have developed as a result. There is no such thing as wearing too much Alison Lou! W H AT I N S P I R E D T H E I D E A TO DESIGN S TAT I O N E R Y ALONG WITH YOUR JEWELS?
I was approached about doing a collaboration with Dempsey and Carroll and I was so excited! Stationery is something that I have always collected. I think it is incredibly important to write handwritten notes – something a bit lost on our generation. I could not
wait to put my designs onto paper, literally. It came out so beautifully and I could not have been happier. W E L O V E T H E S PA C E . H O W DID YOU APPROACH THE D E C O R AT I O N O F Y O U R F I R S T SHOWROOM?
I called my mother. She has an incredibly keen eye for decorating and I knew she would have the perfect vision to make the space both cozy and functional. Our inspiration was French boudoir – I wanted my clients to walk in and feel at ease. As for the office in the back, I got to fulfill my organizational fantasy and go a bit crazy at The Container Store.
W H AT ’ S U P N E X T F O R A L I S O N LOU?
I have a very exciting small capsule collection coming out in early summer, as well as a whole new collection coming out in the fall. If I told you anymore though, I would have to kill you.
Alison’s Matchbook Questionnaire
TEA OR COFFEE? a.m.
Stickers, stationery, and notebooks FAVORITE CITY? New
SPRING OR FALL? Spring! BLOOM OF CHOICE? Long-stem
I’M LUSTING AFTER...
Fendi Monster Eyes Peekaboo Clutch MOST PRIZED POSSESSION?
My bling rings GIRL CRUSH?
Jay Z...Sorry B.
I love to go to brunch and walk around the city to find inspiration. Sometimes I’ll take a trip up to Bard to visit my little sister for some thrift shopping and antiquing in the Hudson Valley. ON WEEKENDS...
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ERIN SIMON & JOHN WOLOSZ YN
THE LOCATION... The ceremony
was at Henry Wright Selsed Vineyard, followed by a reception at the Maryland Club. WE MET... In middle school, at
THE PROPOSAL... Was on the
beach in Delaware. It was a rather cold and windy February day. MY DRESS… Was a Lazaro
bridesmaid dress that I ordered in ivory.
IT FELT VERY "US" BECAUSE…
It was more of a party with crab cake, sushi stations, and a rock band. WE HONEYMOONED IN…At
home, so we could be in town for Preakness the following weekend.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY DEPUTY
SHEIL A C ALL AHAN & BR ADLE Y JA MES WHITE
THE LOCATION... Friday
evening, Brad's parents hosted a fiesta themed welcome dinner at the Four Seasons Resort, The Biltmore, in Santa Barbara. The next day, we held our ceremony at Our Lady of Mount Carmel Catholic Church. Our reception was down the street at the Montecito Country Club. WE MET... Through my maid
of honor, Britainy, ten years ago, when I intentionally gave Brad the wrong phone number. He called my friend to get my correct one. Once we had dinner, we were smitten.
IT FELT VERY "US" BECAUSE…
We took dance lessons and our band learned our first dance song, "You Can't Hurry Love" (the Phil Collins version). It was a fun, peppy moment and perfectly captured our ten years together. Our guests found it hilarious. WE HONEYMOONED IN…At
the Ventana Inn in Big Sur, where we got massages, hiked along the ocean, and dined at Post Ranch. We are taking a longer honeymoon in Italy this summer.
THE PROPOSAL... Was the
day before I ran my first half marathon. He had my ring made with a diamond of my mother's and two diamonds he added. MY DRESS… Was made by
Alvina Valenta. I worked with an amazing seamstress to create a cathedral length veil using pieces of lace from my grandmother's wedding dress. 84
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKI AND SONJA PHOTOGRAPHY
ODDS & ENDS
share their latest obsessions... SPINA, 107 FRANKLIN STREET, BROOKLYN
"Loved discovering this gorgeous cafe and flower shop in Greenpoint."
GOLD BRUSH VASE, WAITING ON MARTHA, $75
"For stashing spring buds or watercolor brushes alike." JANE
RODIN OLIO LUSSO PERFUME, BARNEYS, $220 "Linda
Rodin's scent is as chic as she is." KATIE
UNTITLED (ICE CREAM SANDWICH) BY TOM SLAUGHTER, EXHIBITION A, $100 "This cute
print celebrates a classic, and my all-time favorite dessert." JANE
LOEFFLER RANDALL MARA STUDDED ESPADRILLE, NEIMAN MARCUS, $225
"An urban take on the beachy espadrille." KATIE 86
DOLCE & GABANA NAIL LACQUER IN ROSE PETAL PINK, SEPHORA, $25
THE LAST DAYS OF CALIFORNIA: A NOVEL BY MARY MILLER, AMAZON, $16 "An entertaining
read that showcases the cross-country family roadtrip in a whole new light." JANE
"I'm all about simple pleasures for spring, and this rose petal polish is speaking to me." JANE SLEEVELESS TENNIS DRESS BY MINNIE MORTIMER FOR BOAST, TUCKERNUCK, $98
"I'm counting down the days till tennis weather!" JANE
EVE SLEEP UNDIES, SLEEPY JONES, $54
ALEX KATZ DESSERT PLATE, MOMA STORE, $125 "Fabulous plates for my favorite course." KATIE
"Who knew polka dots could be sexy?" KATIE matchbook
See you next month!
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