ILLUSTRATION BY CATHERINE GRINSTEAD
The past will always be a part of the present. Memories that donâ€™t last, will always last longer to us. Masentle Dlamini
obos is a fanzine that identifies itself with the seventies era visually through styling and by referencing aesthetics from seventies subcultures. However, our content is very much in the present as we work with new upcoming fun creative individuals within today’s fashion industry. It is very important that we don’t just reflect our brand when producing content, but also reflect everyone that is involved in a way that expresses their personal journey and stay true to what they represent. This first issue of Hobos is about identity in terms of fashion. Often in identity, the past and present tend to interlink to create a new definition of authenticity and meaning. Resulting in new prospective of self being.
“Identity is important to everyone because we are socialized to recognise its impact in our everyday lives. How we dress and talk, the kind of lifestyle we have, where we come from, and where we are going..” Williams, J. P (2011). SUBCULTURAL THEORY . Cambridge, UK: Polity Press. p126. Masentle Dlamini
“Into The Wild” 6
Designer one: Aleana Lewis Trousers: CONT’D online Photographer: Aaron Price Hair and Make up: Julia Edwards Stylist: Masentle Dlamini Shoes: Stylist’s own
“We, are the infection” T
he initial concept for my Graduate collection came from ‘Into The Wild’ written by Jon Krakauer, which follows the true story of a young man, Chris McCandless and his escape from society into the Alaskan wilderness. The main themes recurring through the book explore survival instincts, rejection of materialism along with the promise of living off the land. However, this book creates an idea that going back to nature is an easy adventure, that nature is always inviting to the life that shares the earth with it - but is a host inviting to a parasite? The collection developed and the relationship between nature and society was explored society contaminates nature, strip it for all of its use and destroy it for the growth and development of man - society and nature can never be in harmony. We, are the infection.
created by society itself. The design of the garments if very simple, the collection - design wise - is easy to wear, comfortable and has pieces that can be easily thrown together however with the fabrics used, the garments are transformed into something that feels awkward and un-wearable.
filled with exotic animals, incredible coral reefs and untouched rain forests. The tourist business is raking in the millions as we explore the country for its rich experiences and untouched surroundings - we go there to go back to our roots, and live in mud huts, leave your internet connection at the airport and live life the way it was meant to be lived. Yet, even in that country we destroy the rain forests we hold so dear for Palm Oil plantations. I think society knows what it is doing to the land and nature itself, but yet it lies to itself to seek acceptance and free itself from guilt from the destruction it spreads. This is why the fabric choices in the collection have been chosen this way - it is a stark reality check - the plastic feels so unnatural as fabric for clothing but this is the way society is leading - everything we do is unnatural.
The idea of escaping to nature to find oneself is commonly advertised in modern society and an idea that can be perceived as nature holding the key to ones identity. Rejecting society and going back to nature and interacting with pure, untouched surroundings and the wildlife that inhibits it without causing disturbance is meant to help us find peace and serenity with ourselves and with nature itself. Do we long for this acceptance because we know that we are the one thing on this earth that threatens it? I think that we, as man The focus of the communication of this and society create excuses for ourselves Words by Aleana Lewis concept in the collection is through and our actions towards nature, and fabric choices - nothing is natural and thus feel the need to interact with it in its pure form. The wools used have on raw level. It is ironic that these plastic and metal fibres woven through places on earth that we venture out to it, the cottons and linens are coated in ‘find ourselves’ and the same places a synthetic layer, and the plastics are we destroy for personal gain - take used to show the infection in its purest the rain forests for example. ‘Malaysia form, the complete lack of nature - Truly Asia’ an 8invitation to a land
Designer: Fenella Walker Model: Ovilver Whiting Photographer: Sarah Beasley 12 Stylist: Masentle Dlamini
Made in Stone You, are like a stone statue. A great stare, strong jawline, Royal, holy like, a warrior.. Of some sorts. You, are admired by all, Looked up to, praised, All the time with an eyebrow raised, Because that’s just you. And you’re set in stone And will never change. You, have all the traits, Of the stone statue I speak of, For they hold no emotion, no, No meaningful smiles, frowns, No ‘I love you’s’ or thank you’s… You, are like a stone statue, And how I wish to break you, To see what is really inside, But instead, in that cold stone shell, You hide. Words by Alice O’Connell
â€œI suppose society will only accept you, once you accept yourselfâ€? T
he following is an interview with current drag act Shaun Smith from Nottingham. It gives us an insight into a different cultural identity and explores image in terms of one's self and how society views subcultures in terms of sexuality.
Hey Shaun, can you let us know a bit about who you are? I’m Shaun, I am turning 27 next month. I am a hair salon owner, and have been for about for 6 years now. It’s only a quaint little place, but I do have many happy and regular clients whom I think highly of. I am the soon-to-be husband of my partner of seven years! We have a little dog Theo, three cats, and live a fairly normal life. I would say I fall into the typical “housewife” role, doing all of the cooking, cleaning, washing, ironing; sometimes even with the pinny and a duster, much like the 50’s style adds you would see. I also have another side, or persona as it may be seen. I’m a drag queen or “female illusionist,” although this becomes fairly apparent after seeing me walking round in all my attire. Scarlett Tiara is my drag persona, actually turning 5 years old tomorrow on Easter Sunday, although I often say that’s like 50 years in drag terms! I worked in a bar for around 3 years hosting and also meeting and greeting. These days I advertise myself for weddings, parties and corporate events and I’m hoping to do much more of that over the coming year. You’ve got to bring out the old pinny and duster every now and then right?! Oh wow, you’re a busy man, when is the big day?
sonality is more or less the side of myself I can’t be on a regular, daily basis. A little bigger, better and more sparkly than myself! And what actually made you get into drag? I was always a feminine teen, and after leaving school was the kind of boy who often wore make-up on a daily basis. I always had a passion for fashion and obviously, hair. I used to go out dressed in all sorts, despite sometimes getting abuse walking through town for it. Which to me was painful as I grew up with that through school. But once secluded in a bar I was comfortable with myself, and being surrounded by people like myself I was happy, and felt free. I often watched drag artists, one in particular who I’m now friends with. I was amazed at the confidence that they had, and the costumes and make up were great as well. what with going out so often at that time, I started getting to know people and I was always told “you would make a great drag queen” or “you should be up there”. So it started the cogs turning in my mind, and I just did it one night. How did you feel being on stage? Wow! I was amazed at the people who complimented me and wanted pictures, it made me feel amazing. I wanted to do it every weekend, and so I did!
Next February the on the 8th! I hope you enjoy the planning of it all, even if it’s a little stressful! I will be waiting for my invite in the post of course! So let’s talk about Scarlet Tiara, who is she? Scarlett is fairly glamorous, and can do both comedy and showgirl mime routines, and I would say her per-
How did your gig come about? Through getting to know the gay community, and making friends, I was spotted and offered a job as the hostess, which I happily took. What is the difference between Shaun and Scarlett? 27
I suppose in male form I’m more manly these days, Scarlett gives me the passion for all the other things I enjoyed enough for me to tone down the male side of my personality. Which also pleased my partner, not that he ever complained, and also got less hassle walking down the street. How did the name Scarlet come about? Any story behind it? The name Scarlett Tiara oddly enough came to me because of my mum. I knew I didn’t want a comedy or tacky name, I wanted to be glam, but also knew it needed to be memorable. My mum being the flawless beauty she is, was never keen on fancy dress and when asked to do it, always declined, except one new years eve party she was told she had to dress up, as a character from years ago. She tried on every costume the shops had to offer and hated them all; she just wasn’t comfortable making a fool of herself, or looking silly. Until she came across the outfit of Scarlett O’hara. It was red velvet, with black lace, and feathers, and surprisingly she liked it, said it wasn’t too over the top and would wear it. When the night arrived, she looked pretty amazing in the costume despite it being a fancy dress party and I always remember that night. I took the name Scarlett O’hara, exchanged O’hara for Tiara for a bit of extra glamour, and there she was born. Glamorous, sophisticated and also a little bit flirty, much as the mistress of the night was now herself. I have seen some of your pictures as Scarlett and they really fit with the name and identity. Really glamorous and your hair is also stunning might I add! Do you do your makeup and hair yourself? I do all my own hair and makeup yes, there is a page for Scarlett Ti-
ara I think if you look it will pop up. I style the wigs as I would anyone’s hair and just make it bigger. As for makeup, well! Practice, practice and more practice! As I said before, I’ve worn it as a man for years so played with colour and foundations then. With regards to your mum, how did she feel about you doing drag? My mum was okay, at first I think she had the initial “ you don’t want to be a woman do you” but when I explained it’s more about showmanship and entertaining people, she started to understand and agreed she had always seen a side of me that enjoyed dancing, and doing things to make people laugh. And I think she understands that I love makeup, hair and clothes, so this is a way I can have them all to myself, for one night only. Now she supports me fully, we have even shared a few dresses due to both being a size 10, and she comes every year to Pride to support and watch me. She cries every time I’m on stage and tells me how proud she is of me, and could not wish for a better Son. I’ve grown up idolising my mum, and have always watched her do her makeup and hair and choose outfits. She always looks great, and I suppose Scarlett is almost like an over the top mimic of my mum in a strange way. That’s so sweet, and a touching sentiment! I have heard about Gay Pride in Nottingham, I will definitely have to come check out your act soon. You have briefly mentioned that sometimes people give you abuse about your image. How was life for you in Nottingham as a openly out homosexual? You should definitely come to Pride! It’s a strange one, Gay Pride in Nottingham, as I think there is not much support behind the gay community,
and they’re losing money. Being in Nottingham as a gay guy is much better than being brought up in Yorkshire, it’s why I moved here at 16. A lot of my family is here and my parents originally come from Nottingham. It’s an okay city for acceptance, but maybe not as open as it could be. The gay scene is small and far spread compared to cities such as Birmingham and Manchester. And I feel a lot of Nottingham clubbers and scene queens go to these places. I did get abuse shouted at me down the street many times; puff, faggot, cock sucker, all the usual and more! It’s not nice, you have to rise above it but I suppose you do sometimes wonder if they will come up behind you and hit you over the head. I’ve heard stories and once or twice actually witnessed a few incidents of beatings, just because of people’s sexuality. I do wonder why people can’t just get on with their lives and just let me, and the community I feel at home in get on with ours. I suppose people are afraid of change or being faced with something different.
I agree completely. Lastly, when can people catch you in Nottingham, do you have any shows/ events planned or coming up in the near future? The next thing I’m doing is a pride charity fundraiser on Saturday 3rd of May, me with a list of other queens who will be performing a few numbers each to bring in the crowds in. We will have donations boxes going around all night long. I also have a few weddings to perform for towards the end of the year. If there is a Pride this year, we will have to see if they ask me to do anything. Interview by: Masentle Dlamini Interviewee: Shaun Smith
Do you have any advice for boys dreaming of being queens one day, but are maybe held back because of the society or environment that they are growing up in? I guess my advise would be that you must follow your dreams; life is too short to not do at least one thing out of the ordinary. Society will only accept you once you accept yourself, you need to believe in the person staring back at you in the mirror and once you have done that you can step out with pride and confidence. Nothing is ever easy in life, least of all showing the true you, as we all have barriers that we build up for ourselves. You’ve just got to learn to use these barriers to your advantage and stop using them as an excuse. 28
Illustration by Catherine Grinstead
Strictly speaking, true androgyny would involve a melding or muting of gender-specific items of apparel and appearance so thorough as to obliterate anything beyond a biological "reading" of a person's sex" Davis, F (1992). Fashion, Culture, and Identity. Chicago & London: The University of Chicago. p36.
Rings: Bernadette Ojo Bracelet: Maria Le達o Make up: Julia Edwards
Ring one: Esme Parsons Ring: Amber Needham Necklace: Esme Parsons
recently caught up with unisex jewellery in Bernadette Ojo in Rochester, Kent to get a sense oh what her collection is about. The contemporary jeweller and fashion accessories designer who specialises in editorial looks certainly blurs the lines of gender and caters to an androgyny affiliated audience. Her rings specifically are eye catching and play around with texture colour and silhouette. In a conversation with the designer, she state that her current collection focused on sexual communication and its perception to individuals depending on the individuals gender or childhood. This is a very interesting topic, especially in the sense of identity within ones self rather than externally. Our conversation focuses on the influences that result in how androgyny is expressed in terms of fashion.
Androgyny is a recurring theme in my project as I enjoy making unisex pieces of work. I also believe that the traditional gender roles have been blurred to almost being close to each other yet, still having issues of conflict like equal pay and sexual freedom. How do you as an individual relate to androgyny? I identify with androgyny because I that feel both men and women can possess masculine and feminine characteristics, behaviours and features. Yet society likes to pull and separate what they don’t understand, this idea of focusing on what is seen as weird and unheard of in both sexes and pinpointing the familiar is the focus and helps to unify people and not sexes.
What inspired this collection?
What jewellery designer inspired African culture and my experiences you for this collection? of how me being a woman and felling like it was wrong to express Elie Top the jewellery designer for how I can be open up and be Lanvin has inspired me because of expressive about sexuality in general. the mix of fabrics and materials in his collection. He is also a versatile As a result of this, how does your designer in style, which I appreciate. current reflection reflect you as Ted Noten has also inspired me as and your style? he witty humour in his work and used colours that clash and material My collection reflects my own style as that keeps you wondering what it is. it is based on complementary colours and holograms as seen in the materials A lot of my inspirations for the in my collection. I am slightly obsessed collection also came from an artist with the pairing of blue and orange called FKA twigs, more specifically which is very apparent in my pieces. from the single “papi pacify”. It really highlighted the power of being How did androgyny come into it? submissive in sexual communication
without being overexerted. In addition to this, women such as Eryakah Badu and Kelis who are sexual in appearance but not vulgar yet seen to have a unisex look also inspire me when it comes to producing my work. How did you make the rings? The rings are made using an acrylic sheet that has been laminated and heated to shape and the coloured film is a material I have made that has been heated prior with a heat gun. Are you able to express your sexuality today? I am able to express my sexuality but I will always be judged which, is very unfair. As a black female, I feel that often society deems us as sexual objects. Hobos takes inspiration from the seventies through its visual content. Out of curiosity, do you have any thoughts about the seventies? When I think of the 70s I think of colour and Afros the mix of colours and diversity in patterns is very aspiring as this is reflected thought the freedoms of that time. Interviewer: Masentle Dlamini Interviewee: Bernadette Ojo
Ring one: Abi Organ Ring two: Tazin Rahman 36
Ring: Gabriellw Callender 37
Designer: Natasha Spokes Model: Lilly Wood Make up: Malita Harradine Photograper and stylist: Masentle Dlamini
The inspiration for this collection centres around a carefree woman, nostalgic and longing for her childhood again, she is living in a dream world; a pink dream world. Pink is central to the collection as the colour conjures up somewhat hazy memories of childhoodâ€?. Words by Natasha Spokes
THAT 70â€™s SHOW Clothing by: Asos Model: Beki Kellett Stylist: Charlotte Rodgers Make-up and hair: Bernadette Ojo Photography: Masentle Dlamini
BOOGIE HOUSE M
ost part of growing up in the seventies was rather bland, nothing was really happening, and as a black person, acceptance was no00t really there. I mean, the Osmond’s and the Jackson Five all seemed the same and everyone was quit comfortable with being in the middle of the road. And then the late seventies punk came along. It really woke up the seventies at the time, as I said it was a very bland time at the time, very much like the sky outside right now. Punk brought colour into the mix. People that saw themselves as just being “English” became more “British” and it felt like a fresh start. Fashion became more distinctive. Especially when it came to going out to places like Boogie House, you would dress up to the point where your clothing could be deemed as offensive to the older generation, it was just a nice time to start to feel who you are.
a jacket for £120, which, at the time was quite a lot of money. And then a few weeks went by and I was really completely disappointed because Topshop brought out something similar. But instead of where the leather was on the jacket I had, they replaced it with plastic leather. They reduced my jacket to look like something really cheap and nasty. And at the time, Topshop wasn't as cool as it is today. So when I saw people wearing my jacket, I decided that I had to cut the sleeves out so that it looked completely different. It just wasn't the same. I remember there was a really cool place in along Kings road called Jones’. Because I lived in Norfolk, Story by John Westhrop there weren’t many cool fashion shops to buy clothes in. And towards the end of punk, people wanted to get an individual style. I got bored of Junks and Trembles in Norwich, so I decided to head to King's road. There was a store called Jones', where I purchased It was a time where everything felt free, fashion wise, everything was okay, not dissimilar to now, you could buy clothes from Oxfam, or the thrift store as it is called now, or if you wanted really good fashion, you would go to Kings road or mainly Camden market or Hyper hyper in Kensington, and that’s where the fashion hipsters would hang out, bought and made clothes. Bands were also brilliant; tickets to see them were reasonably priced, it was a great time.
With thanks to: Aleana Lewis Alice O’Connell Bernadette Ojo Catherine Grinstead Natasha Spokes Sarah Beasley Shaun Smith
ssue two of Hobos will focus on seventies lifestyle. More specifically we will be focusing on the word “wistful”. To be wistful is to long for something or seriously reflect in fact almost wondering “if only”.
To contribute to issue two, please contact info@Hoboszine.co.uk 52