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International Fashion Markets: Japan and Korea Mary McLeod, Austin McDonnell, Jessica Meli


History of Japanese Fashion • Cult of beauty • City of Edo • Opening up Japan • WWII • American influence


History of Japanese Fashion • Wafuku • Yofuku • Kimono – Suppression of women – Obi – Silk, wool, cotton, synthetic material – Tabi (socks) – Zori (shoes) – Meanings of Kimono

“It has prevented free expression and impeded natural growth. When women finally removed their kimono, they burst in the shackles of feudalism. But now the silky insinuating voice of kimono is heard again, seeking to confine women to the dim and cramped backstage of life.” –Murakami Nobuhiko


Kimono


Zoku Taiyozoku (Sun Tribe) • Taiyo no Kietsu (season of the sun) • Aloha shirts • Shorts • Sunglasses

Other Influential Tribes • Kaminarizoku • Miyukizoku (Miyuki Tribe) • Hipiezoku (Hippie Tribe) • Bosozoku (Speed Tribe) • Body Con • Shibukaji (Shibuya Casual)


Zoku


Transitioning from Zoku to Kei • Kei- Geneology • Gal-Kei- girls who wear sexy and cute fashion • Onee-Kei- “older sister”, more adult • Female subcultures more prominent than Male


Modern Subcultures Ko-Gal (immature) • Long hair dyed brown • Skin tanned • Mini-skirts • Loose socks • School uniform skirts • Influenced by African American culture


Modern Subcultures Ganguro (Face-Black) • • • • •

Yamamba Folktale Extreme tans White makeup White, ultra-blonde, brown, pink hair • Mini skirts • Boots


Modern Subcultures Lolita • Frilly dresses over panniers or crinolines • Very girly • Obsession with Cuteness • Angelic Pretty


Modern Subcultures Goth-Loli • Deviation from Lolita • Girlishness and darkness • Cute but disturbing


Modern Subcultures Cosplay • Fan culture in which participants put on costumes • Make-up • Wigs


Popular Brands In Japan Luxury Brands • Japan Consumes 41% of the world’s luxury goods • • • • • • • • • • •

Buccarat 35% Bulgari 26 % Burberry 36% Coach 22% Hermes 25% Gucci Group 27% LVMH Group 15% Louis Vuitton +30% Salvatore Ferragamo 27% Tiffany & Co. 20% Van Cleef and Arpels 33%

Street Brands • Onitsuka Tiger • The Bathing Ape • WTAPS • KIKS TYO • N. Hollywood • Cecil McBee • Samantha Thavasa • Angelic Pretty • Skull Jeans


1.

Onitsuka Tiger 2. The Bathing Ape 3. WTAPS 4. KIKS TYO 5. Cecil McBee 6. Samantha Thavasa


Key Designers • • • •

Issey Miyake Yohji Yamamoto Rei Kawakubo Kenzo Takada


Kansai Yamamoto • Inspired by Kabuki and pop art


Kenzo Takada • • • •

Jungle Jap Youthful and Fun Ethnic elements African and Japanese textiles


Fashion Epicenter:

Tokyo

Ginza

Shinjuku

Roppongi

Shibuya Odaiba

Harajuku


Market Figures


International Influence • • • •

Known for quality Trend setters Innovation Gwen Stefani



Japan