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Marvelous Mode Derby Season Kentucky Derby Royal Ascot Epsom Derby Grand Prix de Paris

It’s In the Hat Ellen Christine Couture Mil inery Tops N NYC

Put on Your Finest No Gloom In June Lady Like Fashion

Marti Heil Spidee’s Mom Fables of Jeweled Tales

May/June 2012 #2

Table of Contents Features Designers Ellen Christine Couture Milliner

Pages 5 - 9

Marti Heil Fables In The Air

Pages 24 - 30

Cover Heather Sonrisa Hat & Hair Bow Fascinator Heather Sonrisa Millinery at Etsy Dress Heather Sonrisa Teacup Charm Necklace Fables In The Air Makeup Coty & Revlon

Articles Kentucky Derby


10 - 12

Royal Ascot


13 - 14

Epsom Derby


15 - 16

Grand Prix de Paris


17 - 18

Editor Heather Sonrisa copywright ads and info email follow us on Twitter MarvelousMode

Letter from the Editor And Their Off...... It is that time of year for the beginning of Horse Racing Season. A time when women and men attend grand functions dressed in their finest. May and June are also a time when Spring is at its fullest and summer is approaching. There are many Horse races that take place starting in Spring through Early Fall all over the globe. Since I grew up in Kentucky, the Kentucky Derby holds a special place in my heart for the pinnacle of the season. However, while attending college at the University of Kentucky in Lexington, KY, I often attended Horse Races at Keeneland which is Lexington’s version of Churchill Downs. The chance to see such amazing animals and of course dress up and wear a hat where a thrill for me. This issue is dedicated to the fashions of the Horsey Set. Coco Chanel was a great designer and horsewoman. She attended many horse races and the grand fashions of the early 20th Century is what inspired her to create something more pristine but simple. Whether you like a simple boater or a big picture hat for your outfit just make it your own. Be an individual with style. That is timeless and chic. Editor in Chief, Heather Sonrisa

Horse Racing Horse racing has it’s foundations throughout history. Modern day races were founded in England and faned out from there. The royal family has always had a tradition of being horsepeople. There are different types of horses that race but the one that is featured in the top races is the Thoroughbred. Colts and phillies race in this prestigous sport for title and money. The race season generally begins in early spring and ends in early fall. There is alot of pomp and circumstance at these horse derbies which encourages the formal and outlandish fashions that site seers and race enthusiasts wear. So no matter if you attend the actual event at the race track or just attend a viewing party dress up; by all means, dress up and wear those hats when you go to the horse races.


New York Milliner is Tops Ellen Christine Couture Millinery

The Lady

Ellen’s Shop in Chelsea

Ellen & Stephen Jones


New York Milliner is Tops Ellen Christine Couture Millinery New York City is the Fashion Capital of the US and some would argue of the world. Hats have always been a mainstay in the European wardrobe and in todays trends the hat and headwear has made a tremendous comeback so to speak. There are many wonderful milliners in New York but one stands out amoung the crowd of Mad Hatters and her name is Ellen Christine. MM: How would you describe your esthetic/design style? EC: Lost in time MM: How would you describe your hats? EC: Tiny confections, or over the top concoctions that reflect a mood, a moment, or a dream MM: Why headwear? EC: It’s easier than ballgowns. If you think of the amount of fittings that we do for our headpieces, certainly it's as complicated as making a ballgown; but the timeframe in couture millinery is still less than that of couture apparel. So, it's a bit of instant gratification, without the instant. MM: Who would you say is your core customer? EC: Someone who loves hats and has no fear MM: I noticed that you have a Couture line, describe this line? EC: Our couture line stems from our seasonal collaboration with The Metropolitan Opera in New York. The line is based on their productions and visions swirl and in turn a collection emerges. We make everything in NYC. The couture line is usually made to order, of course. MM: How does living in New York factor into your designs? EC: It's the center of the universe for many, so we have daily sporadic flashes that intrigue, inspire, and bounce ideas off the walls of the city. It's where we make our flowers, with Victorian machinery, and where we manufacture, when necessary, in Albrizio's factory in midtown. The hands that work with me come from the multi-leveled world of the theater, and where else is the theatre such a vital part of everyone's day-to-day reality? Certainly, inspiration and talented assistants are out there in the world as well, but we've made our base here in NYC for the last 30 some years. MM: How long have you been creating and designing hats? EC: I've only been doing hats since the 1980's MM: What VIP’s have you hatted? EC: Don't like to kiss and tell, but we just did a "normal" hat for Gaga MM: Who would you like to hat? EC: The less than intrepid, to help them breach the gap


New York Milliner is Tops Ellen Christine Couture Millinery MM: Why do you think hat wearing is so much more popular in England? EC: Not on an everyday basis. But they do have the Queen. All commoners, royalty, and wannabees will always want to imitate the Queen. And so it has been for centuries. MM: Where do you see the hat industry in the USA going? EC: Hopefully, through the roof! More and more people are wearing hats, albeit the imports. But there used to be a flourishing industry in the States, and a few factories are still out there. Hopefully, we can all stand by the American brand and help each other build a new fashion trend. MM: What is a Kentucky Derby hat and why are hats so important at this event? EC: A Derby hat is typically a wide brim, decorated hat that brings to mind lush Southern evenings on a verandah: Gone With The Wind and elegance. When this country was much younger, and we were copying the habits of the English, (whom we had just decked in War, but still longed to be), we had our horse races. Because at Ascot, the custom has always been to wear a hat ( in honor, and again, mimicry of the Queen), so went the ways of the new ex-Colony. The Derby is our Ascot, and although a bit more rowdy, perhaps, we do try to put on the dog, as they say. MM: Have you had hats at any other Derbies like Epsom or Royal Ascot? EC: We do hats for breeders, and horse people around the world. Dubai Ascot is among the races our hats attend. MM: How has social network and online built your business? EC: Not sure about building, but it certainly helps us to meet new writers and keeps the fanbase going. MM: How important do you think accessorizing an outfit plays in a woman’s everyday wardrobe? EC: For an American, not very. We tend to slap on a cardigan and call it a day. Scarves? nope. Hats? Oh, Dear! Let's not get carried away. But accessories, as any Continental knows builds, expands, and compliments the wardrobe. Hats are the easiest, fastest and most fetching of all accessories and they simplify a quick change. MM: What does the future hold for you and Ellen Christine Couture Millinery? EC: We're in the midst of a few projects that are happening with the blessing of the UN and Italian Vogue. Helping women of the poorer nations bring food to their tables through fashion. Our long-term goal is to ferment the establishment of a fashion design school in Puerto Rico, so that the Caribbean, and South American countries have a link to the States. For Ellen Christine Couture, we are building our newly formed wholesale division, and expanding our market. We hope to continue to play a part in the millinery trends of the future and carry on!

Ellen Christine at 255 West 18th Street in NYC &


Ellen Christine Couture Millinery

Rebecca Romijn at KY Derby

Hats on stands Photos: Tom Bloom photographer

Ellen Christine Couture Millinery

Photos: Model ZJ and Sandy Ramirez photographer

Kentucky Derby The Kentucky Derby is the most well known and covered horse racing event in the United States every year. I grew up in Kentucky and even though I never got to attend the event I watch it every year. Watching the horses being escorted to the gates gives me chills every time. When they sing “My Ole Kentucky Home� tears come to my eyes. This is not just a sport but a tradition that started in the beginnings of the foundation of Lousiville, Kentucky. Central Kentucky has been thoroughbred horse country since the foundation of the state which was a branch of the original colony at Virginia. Horse racing originally began in Lexington, Ky and then moved to Lousiville where Churchill Downs holds the Kentucky Derby every year. However, Lexington has a Grand Horse Race Track, Keeneland where many Derby contestants run every year. The founder of Churchill Downs Merriwether Lewis Clark, Jr. a direct descendant of William Clark of Lewis and Clark had visited Europe and wanted a horse racing event like those at Epsom Derby in England and the Grand Prix in France. So, on May 17, 1875 the first Kentucky Derby was held and Aristides was the winner. A tradition was established. There are many things that add to the tradition and the fashions are definitely a standout and especially the Kentucky Derby Hat. Since the beginning of the Derby it has been tradition to dress up in formal day wear like they did in Europe at their races. Women have traditionally wore formal day dresses or skirt with jackets. The traditional hat is a big brim topper with either bows or flowers.

Date: May 5, 2012 Location: Churchill Downs Louisville, KY

Churchill Downs 1901


Kentucky Derby Traditions

During the last part of April and first part of May the state of Kentucky celebrates it’s horse industry. The old horse families hold parties and the Kentucky Derby Jockey Associations hold their events as well. There is even a Kentucky Derby Festival that last for two weeks up until the race on the first weekend in May. There are many traditions that follow The Derby. Food is of course a must and Kentucky Burgoo is the Derby cuisine. The singing of Stephen Foster’s “My Ole Kentucky Home” before the start of the race. Wearing that Hat that will get you noticed and turn heads. And last but not least the Mint Julep. The Mint Julep is a cold liquor drink that has grand tradition in the Bourbon Industry in Kentucky. The only place in the world where true Bourbon is created is in Central Kentucky. There are many brands to choose from for your Julep. I was forwarded this lovely blog with their version of the drink.

Ellie KY Burgoo


Kentucky Derby

Diane Lane (Actress Secretariat) Attending KY Derby

Churchill Downs

KY Derby Attendee CourtesanMacabre Blogspot

Actress Zoe Saldana Attending KY Derby

KY Derby Attendee 12

Secratariat Legendary Triple Crown Winner

Royal Ascot The Royal Ascot is by far the most prestigous of all the Horse Racing Events throughout the season. It is held at The Ascot Racecourse which is located near Windsor Castle in Ascot, Berkshire, England. So deemed the Royal Ascot because for 5 days England’s Royal Family Attends the races and a number of the races are named after them. The idea for Horse Racing in England and as a sport was the brain trust of Queen Anne of England in 1711. The present day Queen Elizabeth holds the tradition for 5 days in June. I believe this is the grandest hat wearing event of the year the world over. There are different enclosures for viewing at the Racecourse. The most coveted is the Royal Enclosure. There is a strict dress code for the Royal Enclosure and all other viewing areas. Dates: June 19 - 23, 2012 Location: Ascot Racecourse Windsor Great Park, United Kingdom near Windsor Castle Dress Code: Very Strict

Queen Anne


Royal Ascot

Jackie St. Claire

Top Milliner Stephen Jones at Ascot

Sophia Loren at Ascot

Ascot 1914


Epsom Derby

In a town that was originally known for it’s healing waters, a horse racing tradition arose. The Epsom Derby is to me the second most prestigous racing event of the year. The Kentucky Derby and the Grand Prix de Paris were formed in the tradition of this race. So started by the 12th Earl of Derby hence the term Derby. The first official running was in 1780. The Royal Family does attend. Date: June 1 & 2 Location: Epsom Downs Racecourse, Surrey, United Kingdom Dress Codes: They are enforced so put on the ritz and follow tradition 12th Earl of Derby


Epsom Derby

Epsom Attendee Epsom Attendee

Her Majetsy Queen Elizabeth & The Royal Family

Erin O’Connor Model


Grand Prix de Paris France has a long tradition of horse racing as one of the most popular social events every year. Coco Chanel began her adult life riding and learning to train horses. Her first boyfriend Etienne Balsan was a well known horse owner and he took Coco to all the grand horses races. It was at these races that she decided that the over grandiose fashions that the women wore were to much. However, it was in 1863 before Coco that France decided to have a grand derby like the Epsom. There are many horse races all year around in France but The Grand Prix and the Prix Diane in Chantil y which is the running of phil y thoroughbreds that brings out the ritz. Grand Prix de Paris Date: July 14, 2012 Bastille Day Location: Longchamps Racecourse France Prix de Diane Longines Date: June 17, 2012 Location: Chantilly Racecourse France


Grand Prix de Paris & Prix Diane

Chantilly Racecourse home of Prix de Diane Longchamps home of Grand Prix de Paris

Juddmonte Grand Prix de Paris Aishwarya Rai-Bachchan at Longines Prix de Diane

Prix de Diane attendee

Horse Racing Fashion

Magaschoni Boucle Jacket

Victoria Beckham Paradis Shift Dress

Day Dress & Peep Toe

Pinup Couture Josephine Dress Hybrid Dress

Bettie Page Collection

Worth Paris 19

Hat Makers

Eric Javits

Donna Vinci Couture Hats

Sylvia Fletcher Millinery (Duchess of Camebridge milliner) Locke & Co.

ffortissimoon hats


Heather Sonrisa Millinery

Hat Makers

Stephen Jones Millinery

Orizu Boater

Heather Sonrisa Millinery

Christine King Millinery &

A new site has emerged as a leader in a go to for high end Hat Designers. It is This site is tops for getting a great hat for Derbies or special occasions. You can even upload a pic of yourself and try a hat on your head. Splendid!!!!

Phillip Treacy Gina Foster

Yvette Jelfs


Men’s Hatters

Fabriano Boater

North Beach Panama Hats Prague Top Hat

Anthony Peto

Silk Top Hat 23

Fables by Marti Heil Jeweled Tales


Fables by Marti Heil Jeweled Tales By day Marti Heil is a Jewelry Designer and by night super mom to Spiderman (Reeve Carney), Zane Carney musician, and Paris Carney singer/ songwriter. I met Marti many years ago while working for Betsey Johnson. She is the warmest person I have ever met and tremendously talented. She is a bicoastal creative woman who tells tall tales through her fashion accessory line. MM: How would you describe your esthetic/design style? MH: The memory has always fascinated me--the way we are able to access an exact moment through reflection and have it be palpable. Have you ever walked by a garden and had a familiar scent take you back to an ice cream truck by the beach with rose-covered cottages? My jewelry design is fueled by that concept. Articles of everyday life each have their stories. That, combined with a life-long love of charms and charm bracelets inspire me to create pieces which, I hope, make women connect to their own "stories". I love hearing back from customers about the amount of comments made on one of my designs. If it makes my customer feel special and beautiful, I am happy. I never follow trends and I don't do seasonal lines. I do what I do and I attempt to make pieces which are timeless. MM: How would you describe your jewelry? MH: I describe my jewelry as "Tongue-in-chic". It is whimsical and sometimes surprising. People will look and look again when they realize that the John Lennon Glasses, for example, are actually an over the jacket pocket pin. My jewelry is designed to make people smile and think. I sometimes juxtapose symbols--such as my twist on RenÊ Descartes' "I think, therefore, I am". One of my key pieces is a lace-trimmed heart simply engraved "GRATEFUL". Another is a teacup engraved "a cup of kindness" (which Marti gave me for my birthday and I cherish it). I also have an open pocket watch which says quiet "enough". As with a song-writer, I would rather have the observer decide what I am trying to convey, rather than explain my motivation. This makes my jewelry personal to the wearer and they become part of the artistic process. MM: Who would you say is your core customer? MH: Anyone who thinks outside the box, has an active imagination, loves fashion, dares to be different, longs to be different. MM: Why jewelry? MH: one's ever asked me that. I think I design jewelry because it is the most personal and, usually, the finishing touch to any outfit one puts together. I like to think of the word accessory in the purest sense of the "b" definition: "an object or device not essential in itself but adding to the beauty, convenience, or effectiveness of something else". I also love the tactility of jewelry and, in particular, bringing my ideas to life in Sterling silver and gold, which takes them into a more permanent sphere and out of the "costume jewelry" realm. MM: What VIP’s have you bejeweled? MH: I have been blessed to have had my jewelry on a lot of celebrities Let's just say that:) I will say that Michael Jackson owned a ring of mine. MM: Who would you like to bejewel? MH: I have never thought about that. That answer may be for an addendum to this interview! :)


Fables by Marti Heil Jeweled Tales MM: I noticed that you have a Carney line, describe this line? MH: It's actually more of a CARNEY "Collection"--and was born out of my having been the costume designer for the CARNEY "Love Me Chase Me" video--and, though, yes, Reeve and Zane Carney are my sons and wear my jewelry, it wasn't, as it might appear, that they wear it by decree...but more out of rooting through my samples and taking pieces randomly as their own signature wear. The video features primarily my own extensive vintage clothing collection, by sheer coincidence that the kinds of pieces I own mirror the ethereal and yet sensual vision of the brilliant young director, TImothy Garrett. When Tim and I had our first meeting, he told me he'd like to incorporate my jewelry into the video--and asked if I would be okay with that. I was honored. He decided which pieces and I had no idea till I saw the final video, that several "fables" were actually featured! The Carney Collection was a way for people who were coming to through viewing "Love Me Chase Me" or through the kids' music to find an easy route to the pieces they saw within. The pieces Zane and Reeve gravitate to have a gritty other-world-era-gone-by flavor and they often get the first pieces of new designs, as does my daughter, Paris, also a singer-songwriter. MM: Why the name Fables In The Air? MH: My company, in NYC, was originally Fables and, since it has always suggested a whimsical story, it made sense to me to try to create an actual "place" in the air/internet, which is designed to provide a respite from the seriousness of the world down here. There are two entrances to my site. will take you to an antique French circus of has flash and bells and whistles and even a slot machine you can actually, well..VIRTUALLY, play to bide your time. You can get to the store by clicking on the middle tent of the circus..."store" and we created for solely a store site, with no flash, so that customers using their mobile phones would have easy access. I retained the Edyth Piaf song and other fun customizations to the online store. MM: How long have you been creating and designing jewelry? MH: I studied silver-smithing while pregnant with Reeve (Carney) and showed my first collection to Norma Kamali (who ordered for her flagship store on 56th Street) while pregnant with Zane (Carney) and by the time I was pregant with Paris, I had the best rep in NYC and was in about 350 stores all over the world and was being quoted in Women's Wear Daily. I took a long break to raise the children, much of that time as a single mother--because I had left modeling after Reeve was born because of the amount of time it took me away from him...and suddenly my jewelry business was taking me away even more! It was the right decision and I never stopped designing,and, for some miraculous reason, it was if no time had passed and I've had some wonderful breaks, including my "Scissorhand" Cuff having been featured by Julie Taymor in "The Tempest" and that same cuff was chosen by as a featured pick! MM: You are now venturing into vintage on Fables In the air. Why vintage and how is this going to grow your business? MH: Vintage seemed like a natural fit for the nod to the past which is fablesintheair. People are always asking me about clothing I wear, so it will give me a chance to share some of the wealth of my shopping jaunts, at reasonable prices...and it was, again, born out of having designed the whole look of the "Love Me Chase Me" video. If people want to have that look for themselves, Fables Vintage will be the perfect spot to shop. 25 Late in the Spring, expect Fables Vintage to explode with wonderful finds!

Fables by Marti Heil Jeweled Tales MM: You use to be a model, how has this influenced your fashion sense? MH: I think that my having sewn and designed clothing for myself for most of my life (including making my Barbie and actual pink velveteen wing back chair when I was in grade school) and having had a mother who was a designer (and model) had a great influence on my fashion sense. I was always the daring girl who was teased because of my fashion choices and then copied, so had to continuously think of NEW ideas... to still maintain that little off-center look. I was the first person I knew who wore lingerie as outerwear...started that in the 70's. I was a top lingerie model and had access to some of the most beautiful underwear of "the day" favorite was a company called "Poirette", not sure if they are still in existence, but I still own a few of their pieces. Would wear a lace corset with boning as a cinch belt, layered petticoats as skirts, camisoles with vintage wool jackets, suede buckled slippers as flats when I was 16. Some people would say there is no "sense" to my fashion:) MM: You also were and are a professional singer. How does this influence your designs? MH: Ahhh...true. My degree (BFA) is actually from The Cincinnati College-Conservatory of Music. I also went to a performing arts high school in Miami, Florida and played the violin. I was also a model and commercial actress in London and New York City. The influence, I believe, is that, more often than not, that artistic vein is the jugular. If we have it, we create. And whether it is music, drama, cooking, decorating, design... it is not a choice, it is like breathing, right? MM: Where is that you have traveled and worked that you enjoyed the most? MH: I lived briefly in London, and loved it--felt as if I had come "home", which makes sense, since my primary heritage is English, though I have a German last name. I finally went to Paris a few years ago when I was coming back to jewelry design full force and was invited by Workshop Boutique to be part of one of their shows there. I actually wept when I saw the Eiffel Tower for the first time--through evening lights and snowflakes, from the hotel which housed Workshop Salon's exhibits. That won me favor with the Parisians with whom I was working, but my tears were spontaneous. I was so moved and so thrilled to finally be in Paris. That having been said...I am in love with Prague. It has to be the most romantic city in the Universe. And, if I ever remarry, I want to honeymoon there. Powerful connection to that fairytale world of ancient castles AND it has grasses in 17 shades of lush green! The St. Charles Bridge, with its poets and puppet-makers reminds me of Greenwich Village in the 60's. Last year I went to Brugge and an alarm should have gone off when I left, for there were far less chocolates there upon my departure! I love EVERYWHERE I go. I guess I should be grateful for that, eh? That, no matter where I am, I always want to be there and imagine myself living there. I have more than a little "Pollyanna" in me. MM: How has social network and online built your business? MH: Tremendously! Social media has removed the 3rd wall and suddenly, we all have a little more in common with Kevin Bacon. MM: How important do you think accessorizing an outfit plays in a woman’s everyday wardrobe? MH: As I said earlier, VERY important...because accessories set us apart and tell the world a little more about us. Are we conservative-with a little graduated pearl necklace? Are we funky, with a leather studded bracelet? Are we regal, or perhaps, sassy, with a fascinator? Are we mysterious, and possibly a little "Janus Joplin", with a floppy hat and big sunglasses? Are we funky and curious with a set of various sterling silver keys on varied lengths of chains and ribbons and cords? Are we romantic, with crystal drop earrings and a heart necklace? The combinations are infinite. I, personally, think we are ALL of these things and that is the fun of accessorizing. We take our childhood dress-up game and turn it into a fine art. We are all many facets and what makes us live healthy, full lives, I the ability and freedom to express all of the facets of ourselves.26 MM: What does the future hold for you and Fables in the air? MH: That remains to be seen...but I am excited to discover.

Fables by Marti Heil Jeweled Tales Carney Collection

Carney Love Me Chase Me Video Fables Necklace on Reeve Carney

Paris Carney Battles of You Video Fables Necklace

Edward Scissorhand Cuff


Fables by Marti Heil Jeweled Tales The Veronicas for Fables by Marti Heil

29 Fables Couture

Boater Pin Gumball Rings Fred & Ginger Bolo

Top Hat Pin

Mad Hatter Necklace

Hair Roller Pin


Letter from the Editor Closing Statements

I so enjoyed putting together this issue. For me as a milliner this time of year is extra special. I love the grandeur of these events. I grew up around horses in Kentucky and I graduated from the University of Kentucky. My family has Quarter Horses and Thorougbreds. These animals are so majestic and down right Marvelous. So when you are out and about this Spring go to see the horses race at a track near you. And please dress up. I truly wish that the KY Derby would install Dress Codes as does Epsom and Ascot. These events are so prestigous and should be kept as such. I hope you enjoy these collections of fashions and information to inspire your derby and spring season. Stay tuned for the July/August Issue which will be combos of Bridal and Summer Lovin...... Editrix at Large Heather Sonrisa


May June The Derby Issue  
May June The Derby Issue  

This issue of MM is about Horse Racing Season and the Fashion. Also great articles with jewelry designers and milliners.