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The FREE Magazine of the Ashford, Folkestone & Romney Marsh Branch of CAMRA

Old Dairy Brewery Wins The Round The French champagne house, Vranken-Pommery Monopole, has lost the tribunal to prevent Old Dairy Brewery from selling their Red Top best bitter that the French claimed as infringement of their trademark. The French claimed that they had the rights to the name as they have been selling Heinsdeck & Co Monopole Red Top champagne for some time. Perhaps the remnants of the Milk Marketing Board should have taken the French to Court for infringement of an accepted name for a bottle of milk that has been sold for nearly 100 years as a non-alcoholic drink.!! Whilst Red Top can be obtained in a bottle and on draught, (I’ve also seen milk dispensed from a keg font), there must be something wrong with the society if a drinker, of any nationality, cannot tell the difference between a bottle of beer, a bottle of milk or bottle of champagne, even with the price difference!! Enjoy a bottle or a pint of Red Top over Christmas and not a magnum!

Winter 2011


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On a sunny Saturday Keith and I, who have provisionally taken over the editorship of Marsh Mash, decided to have an away day in Brighton Keith and his wife Shirley down for a long weekend and Siri and I by train, an easy journey with only one change at Ashford International.

Victory, an old Tamplin’s house with the original tiled façade, where we both tried the House Bitter, Brighton Best, brewed exclusively for the pub by W J King’s of Horsham at £3.55/pint.

We decided to meet up at the Evening Star, a regular entry in the GBG and I started with a pint of Waen Brewery’s Blackberry Stout at 3.8% abv from Powys whilst waiting for Keith. It was very tasty but more like a mild than a stout and at £3.00/pint not a bad price for Brighton and close to the railway station compared with £3.60 at the Queens Head that I had paid the previous Tuesday. When Keith arrived he joined me with a pint of Blackberry Stout whilst we considered which baguettes to order. The Evening Star has a simple philosophy for baguettes with or without salad. The choices were cheddar or brie cheese, ham, salami or tuna. Prices were from £3.00 for one filling and an extra 50p for an additional filling (the salad was optional and free, although the management frown upon those who order salad and do not eat it). Food ordered, we moved on to Dark Star’s Hophead at £2.90/ pint, which since the Evening Star was Dark Star’s first pub it would have been rude not to try one of their beers. My final beer was Old Moor Porter from the Acorn brewery at £3.10/pint. The girls by then were in need of some retail therapy so they wandered off and Keith and I explored some more GBG pubs in Brighton. After wandering aimlessly around the Lanes, I had left my map at home and Keith was still familiarising himself with his new iPhone, we eventually stumbled upon the

After a pint we decided to move on and we found the Pump House, with a little help from a local taxi driver. I had a pint of Twaites “Nutty Black” at 3.3% and Keith tried a pint of Brain’s SA, both at £3.25/ pint. With the Government introducing a lower tax on beers with an abv below 2.8%, I hope that those brewed to the lower abv have more flavour that the Nutty Slack, which to my palate, was more like coloured water. The girls by then had finished their retail therapy and phoned to establish our whereabouts, so we met for a quick pint at the Lord Nelson, another regular GBG entry and a Harvey’s house that usually has all the Harvey’s range on offer. Keith tried Star of Eastbourne at 5.5% and I had a pint of Hadlow Bitter at 3.5%, the two costing Keith £7.25. We met up with the girls and returned to the Evening Star, to find the pub very busy and a complete change of beers on offer. I had a couple of pints of Camden Town Bitter at £3/pint, whilst Keith tried some of Dark Star’s Saison. With a return railway ticket from Folkestone only £19.10, it proved an excellent way to spend a Saturday, except for the price of beer in some pubs. Bob the Beer

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Shirley’s Christmas Beery Cake Ingredients: ½ pint/10fl oz. (285ml) Bishops Finger Ale (take from a 500ml bottle and drink the rest) 3oz (85g) Butter/Margarine/Spread (i.e. Olive Oil/Sunflower Spread/Utterly Buttery) 3oz (85g) Soft Moist Brown Sugar 5oz (140g) Dried Mixed Fruit 1 Extra Large Egg (or 2 small ones) 10oz (240g) Self Raising Flour 1 tsp. Mixed Spice 1 level tsp. Bicarbonate of Soda

Method: 1.

2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Put beer, fat, sugar and fruit into a saucepan and gently bring to the boil, stirring all the time. Turn off the heat and cool for 20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. Grease and line an 8” (20cm) round cake tin (or use a round cake tin liner, available from most supermarkets) Sieve all of the dry ingredients together into a fairly large mixing bowl. Beat egg/s and add to beer mix, stir well to mix. Add liquid mix to dried ingredients and beat well until combined. Pour mixture into prepared cake tin, smooth over and make a well in the centre (to allow for rising). Bake in pre-heated oven at 195°C/390°F/Gas 5 for 45 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 185°C/360°F/Gas 4 and bake for a further 20-40 minutes until a skewer/thin bladed knife comes out clean.

Note: To make a more economical cake with a crumbly texture, replace the fat with lard and omit the egg. Recipe by Shirley Johnson

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Marsh Mash Information Produced by the Ashford, Folkestone and Romney Marsh Branch of the Campaign for Real Ale Ltd. (CAMRA) Circulation 1800 Editors: Bob Martin & Keith Johnson Email: marsh.mash@camra-afrm.org.uk Telephone: 0845 388 1062 Contributors: Bob Martin, Nigel North, Peter Chamberlain, Chris Ubee, Chris Excell, Michael Line, Shirley & Keith Johnson. Contributions, letters, pub reports and news are always welcome. Please write to Marsh Mash at: The Cottage, The Green, Saltwood, Hythe, Kent CT21 4PS, or E-mail bob@camra-afrm.org.uk Views expressed are not necessary those of the editors, CAMRA Ltd. , or the Branch. The existence of this publication in a particular outlet does not imply an endorsement of it by AF&RM CAMRA.

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Copy date for next issue is 2nd March 2012

Members Notice Board Those members who attended the Branch meeting at the County Hotel, Ashford in November short-listed 33 pubs for consideration for inclusion in the 2013 Good Beer Guide. The final selection will be made at the Branch meeting to be held at the County Hotel, Ashford at 19:30 on 15th February 2012. If as a CAMRA Member you wish to have an input to the next GBG entries please email bob@camra-afrm.org.uk with your membership number and a voting form will be forwarded to you.

Branch Contacts Chairman: Paul Meredith Treasurer: Stephen Rawlings Secretary: Bob Martin Membership Secretary: Virginia Hodge Branch Contact: Stephen Rawlings Telephone: 07885 218972 Branch Webmaster: Keith Johnson Pubs Officer: Justin Nelson Advertising: Bob Martin Website: www.camra-afrm.org.uk Yahoo Group : For all branch members http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/AFRM_Camra © Campaign for Real Ale 2011 CAMRA 230 Hatfield Road, St Albans AL1 4LW Telephone: 01727 867201 www.camra.org.uk

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Pub News Ashford Area

Folkestone Area

Richard and Karen took over the tenancy of the British Volunteer in August and have tidied and cleaned up the pub, which was very welcoming when a group of us visited in October. The lease on the George Hotel is reportedly for sale at £145,000. Enterprise Inns have recently put the Swan, Little Chart, an ex Whitbread pub on the market. There must have been parking problems in Bethersden as the George has applied to install pay and display meters in the car park, hopefully there will be an arrangement for genuine customers to park for free when visiting the pub!!

The 3-day Leas Cliff Beer Festival in September proved more of a success than the earlier one in February with all the beer being sold by Saturday evening leaving no beer available for the Sunday session according to their web site.

How many spotted the typo in relation to Queens Head, Kingsnorth. The original asking price for the lease was £75,000 and not £750,000. It has now been reduced to £59,000 with a rent of £54,000 pa. The Locomotive has been selling Samphire from Abigale, which is brewed just down the road. Whilst on a CAMRA initiated walk around Ashford town centre we found Cottage Brewery, Lord Nelson, and Skinner’s Keel Over at the Swan.

The Ship, Sandgate has been complementing the offerings from Greene King beers recently with beers from other Kentish Breweries and Dark Star from Sussex.

A Sunday afternoon stroll around three of the GBG listed pubs, British Lion, Guildhall and the Pullman found a selection of well travelled beers, Elsie Mo from Castle Rock Brewery, Nottinghamshire, Trelawney Ale from St The Oak, Charing has been reported to have a Austell, Cornwall and Golden Sheep from the House Beer “Charing Ale” brewed by the Black Sheep Brewery in Yorkshire. The Nelson Brewery from Chatham Dockyard. nearest local ale was Harvey’s from Sussex. The Swan, next door to the Hoodeners Horse in Great Chart closed, with a “To Let” sign shortly after the beer festival was held at the Hoodeners. I wonder whether there is a connection although I believe Punch own one pub and the other owned by Enterprise. No prizes for which is which.!!

On a casual Friday afternoon we decided to meet in the Samuel Peto, the local Wetherspoons pub, before visiting other pubs in Folkestone in preparation of making decisions on what pubs should be considered for the 2013 GBG. After waiting 15 minutes to be served with staff running all over the

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place I eventually ordered a pint of Whitstable Neame pubs in the area, was on offer. Debbie EPA which was very good, I also sampled a pint is negotiating to be able to return to offering of Whitstable Oyster Stout, in excellent local ales in the New Year. condition. A third local beer was available, The Marsh and the Hills Wantsum Mores Head alongside the usual Ruddles Best and Abbot, both brewed by Greene King. Further on in our travels beer was costing either £3.40 or £3.50/pint for average strength beer, whereas in the Samuel Peto both beers we tried were £1.90/pint.

Hythe Area The White Hart continues to support local breweries by promoting their products. The new local brewery “Hop Fuzz” which, with much celebration on October 1st, launched their Golden Ale and Mango Ale, a beer infused with mangos. Mango Ale was developed based upon experience gained by Daryl, the brewer, when he was travelling in Australia, which was a little too sweet for my palette. The Carousel Lounge provided me with my first taste of a 2.8% abv beer, which was brewed by Greene King. Whilst I don’t really approve of the National Brewers trading with brewery names that they have closed, I must admit that the Tolly English Ale was very flavoursome for a low gravity beer at £2.10/pint reflecting the 50p reduction in duty being passed on to the customer. The Three Mariners continues to be very popular and offering a wide range of good quality beers. Henry and Jude have now acquired Bar Vasa on the seafront at Sandgate. After considerable amount of refurbishing they have renamed the establishment Vasa which is more of a young persons bar and restaurant. They are considering introducing a cask ale and cider since recently quite a few young customers have commented on the lack of a suitable cask beer. Who says that cask ale is an old mans’ drink !!! The Red Lion continues to offer good food with their beer. When I last visited, Sharp’s Doombar at £2.50/pint and Spitfire at £3.35/ pint, cheaper than some of the Shepherd

Doris and Kate of the Red Lion Snargate celebrated 100 years of the pub being in the same family in October. This unspoilt Marsh pub, which appears in the CAMRA National Inventory, has not changed significantly since I first visited it in the 60’s. All the beers, including a mild, are supplied straight from the barrel and generally feature beers from local breweries. The Jolly Fisherman, Greatstone has now changed management. The Wilmot’s had been running the pub for some 17 years, but Enterprise Inns then performed their usual trick on successful tenants of raising the rent to an unsustainable level, making the business untenable and causing them to leave this friendly local. The Seahorse, also in Greatstone, another Enterprise Inn, is on the market although still open. The Ship, Dymchurch, was offering Harvey’s Sussex Best, Adnam’s Broadside and Sharp’s Doombar on a recent visit. The Star, St Mary in the Marsh, has recently installed another hand pump to serve draught cider. On a visit in October Thatcher’s Heritage was on offer and reported to be excellent from a regular cider drinker. The Pilot, Dungeness, better known for its fish and chips, was selling Harvey’s Sussex Best on a visit in October.

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Glen at the Cinque Ports Arms, New Romney, continues to change the beers on offer but usually has one from the Old Dairy Brewery. For the pubs beer festival, the brewery produced a house beer “Cinque Top” for the occasion, which sold very well.

The Downs The Dukes Head, Sellinge, appears to be more adventurous with the selection of ales and on a recent visit the offering was, Wychwood Hobgoblin and Hopback Summer Pride. The Tiger, Stowting, seems to be majoring on local beers, on a recent visit, Canterbury Ales “Millers Tale”, Old Dairy “Red Top”, Gadd’s “Seaside” and Adnam’s “Old” at the reduced strength of 4.2%, in addition to a Biddenden cider on hand pump.

became unviable in the current economic climate with 4 other pubs within walking distance. Shepherd Neame praised Sally recently for offering some of the extensive grounds to be used by locals as allotments and supporting the local community. One day the accountants will learn that they should be understanding the business and operating environment and not the bottom line on a balance sheet!! The number of times that I have heard of the rent being increased to an unacceptable level by the leaseholder and the tenant leaving only for the brewery or pubco to then install a new tenant at a lower rent and ruin the business is more times than I can count on my fingers (and thumbs) on both hands. The Five Bells, East Brabourne, continues to serve Kentish beers usually from Goacher’s, Whitstable Brewery or Hopdaemon, together with a barrel of Biddenden cider on stillage at the end of the bar.

Tenterden area The Bull, Rolvenden, in addition to now selling cask ales, has applied for planning permission to convert the out buildings into 4 en-suite bedrooms and other external alterations.

The Bowl, Hastingleigh, is now only offering Kentish beers, recently from Wantsum, Hopdaemon and Gadd’s, but beers from other local breweries can be expected in this rural but friendly pub. During their regular August Bank Holiday beer festival the pub raised in excess of £1,000 for a Programmable Investigation Unit to be installed in Kings College Hospital. One day the powers to be will realise that local pubs not only serve the community as a focal point but also raise a significant amount of money for charitable causes. The Plough, Brabourne Lees, will shortly be loosing their friendly pub management as a result of Shepherd Neame raising their rent to an unacceptable level that made the business

The Worlds Wonder, Warehorne, has been offering beers from the Cottage Brewery and reported to be sold in good condition along with a house beer “Wonder Brew”. Ray at the Six Bells, Woodchurch, continues to provide excellent beers and reasonably priced baguettes. Beers that have been available recently include Hopdaemon Golden Braid, Timothy Taylor Landlord and Gales ESB, plus many more at the pub’s regular beer festivals. Thank you to all who have provided information to enable me to compile pub news. If there is anything interesting, however small, about local pubs, please let us know and then I will not be chastised for not including it in the next Pub News.

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CAMRA AF&RM Meetings Wednesday 25th January @19:30 The Star, Rolvenden Wednesday 15th February @19:30 2013 Good Beer Guide Selection County Hotel, Ashford CAMRA members only Wednesday 14th March @ 19:30 Pullman, Folkestone Wednesday 18th April @ 19:30 Locomotive, Ashford Wednesday 16th May @19:30 William Caxton, Tenterden For further details on meetings, socials and beer festivals check out WHAT’S BREWING, the branch website www.camra-afrm.org.uk or by joining our new Yahoo Group AFRM_Camra

CAMRA AF&RM Socials Saturday 12th December @ 12:00 Red Lion, Snargate Presentation to take place during the afternoon to commemorate the Red Lion being in the same family for 100 years. Thursday 29th December @ 12:00 The Foundry, Canterbury Christmas Lunch & Brewery Trip Pre booking with Paul Meredith essential

Saturday 7th January @11:30 A mini bus tour of the pubs nominated to be our 2012 Pub of the Year leaving from Ashford Domestic Railway Station . £7 / head Pre booking with Paul Meredith essential Friday 17th February Six Bells Woodchurch Visit the Beer Festival - 18:30 onwards Saturday 31st March Maidstone Pub Crawl Meet Ashford Station, check website for timings Saturday 5th May Mini Bus Trip Check website for timings and cost

Beer and Cider Festivals Friday 3rd & Saturday 4th February 2012 19th White Cliffs Festival of Winter Ales Maison Dieu (Town Hall) - Dover, CT16 1DL Friday 17th - Saturday 19th February Six Bells Beer Festival Woodchurch, TN26 3QQ Friday 6th & Saturday 7th April 7th Planet Thanet Easter Beer Festival Winter Gardens - Margate, CT9 1HX Thursday 12th - Saturday14th April Bexley Beer Festival Sidcup Sports Club, DA14 6RA Saturday 16th June 4th Kent & East Sussex Railway Real Ale & Cider Festival Tenterden Town Station, TN30 6HE

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Local Brewery News Another new Brewery opened at the beginning of October, Hop Fuzz, based in West Hythe, bringing the total of breweries in our area to 4. Abigale Brewery Ashford, Kent, TN24 8DE 01233 661310 07734 342278

Old Forge Brewery (Farriers Arms) Mersham, Kent, TN25 6NU 01233 720444 After brewing a Summer Ale, the brewery is now producing an Autumn Ale “Harvest Plenty” clocking in at 4.2% abv, in addition to 1606 and their Christmas Ale at 5.2%.

The current range of beers, all brewed on a constant basis, are:

Ridgeway Pale Ale, 3.8% ABV, using Bramling Cross and Willamette hops. Samphire Bitter, 4.1% ABV, using Challenger, www.thefarriersarms.com Northdown, and East Kent Golding hops. Nailbourne Bitter, 4.5%, Best Bitter, brewed with Admiral and WGV hops. Old Dairy Brewery Bramling Ale brewed on an occasional basis only.

Rolvenden, Kent, TN17 4JD

www.abigalebrewing.co.uk Hop Fuzz

01580 243185

West Hythe, Kent, CT21 4NB 07850 441267 The first two beers, Golden Ale and Mango Ale (Golden Ale infused with Mango) were launched at the beginning of October, with a new beer English Ale being introduced at the beginning of November. Daryl, the brewer, is still experimenting with recipes and currently planning an American IPA. www.hopfuzz.co.uk

A lager “Czech Mate” has been added to the regular brews and was available at the Tenterden Folk Festival in October. A Russian Stout, Tsar Top, won the Silver medal in the South Eastern division of the SIBA awards, premium/strong beers section and has been reported to have been available on draught in Ramsgate and in bottles at oneonetwo wines in Hythe. www.olddairybrewery.com

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Unfined Beer v Fined Beer Several members of the branch attended the West Somerset Railway Beer Festival, held in conjunction with Somerset CAMRA in September. Their reports are quite interesting and hence we have prepared this article for you and local brewers to consider. The article is based upon the brewery’s documentation and those who sampled the fined and unfined versions of the same beer. The Moor Beer Company who brew in Somerset produce as much unfined beer as possible and believe it is the better for us the drinkers. All their bottled beers, keg beers (all kegconditioned!), and dark beers are unfined.

to the bottom of the cask. Why is beer fined? Left undisturbed, beer will clear naturally on its own over a period of time, you may remember from the days when you brewed from kits at home. Isinglass finings merely accelerate the clearing time. Is cloudy beer bad? In the latter half of the 20th century real ale went into decline and people were often served beer that had stood in cellars too long, not been looked after properly and had gone off. British beer drinkers began to associate cloudy beer with bad beer, when in actual fact the cloudiness was the symptom rather than the cause. As all other countries abandoned cask for keg and bottle, the linkage was never made between cloudy beer and bad beer. In other countries cloudiness is actually a mark of quality, for example:

Unfortunately it is not possible at the moment for them to ship their beer unfined outside their local area  as prejudice and ignorance is rampant in the pub industry, but things are changing – and you can be part of it! Below is a brief description of what we mean by unfined beer.

Germany – Hefe Weizen is served cloudy and the yeast is intentionally poured into the beer. People incorrectly believe it is cloudy because it is a wheat beer, when it is the yeast that makes the beer cloudy. You can order Kristall Weizen, which is the same beer without the yeast, and it is clear. However, it is considered an inferior product and rarely consumed. USA – Proper IPAs have a ‘hop haze’, and often have residual yeast. IPAs served too clear are often accused of not containing enough hops.

 Belgium – Most Belgian beers are What are cask finings? They are an acidified naturally conditioned, containing live aqueous suspension of collagen derived from yeast and are very often served cloudy. the swim bladder of certain fish, along with  Czech Republic – Yeast Beers are also sodium metabisulphite. Does it sound like something you want added to your beer? The naturally conditioned with live yeast finings flocculate the live yeast in the beer into and are served in varying degrees of a jelly-like mass, which settles to the bottom of cloudiness. They are considered the the cask. Finings have a positive charge which best examples of fresh beer. attracts negatively charged particles, mostly Is clear beer necessary? Cask beer went yeast, causing them to clump together and fall Marsh Mash Winter 2011 Page 12


through a slump decades ago, during which time British consumers were generally justified in linking clarity with quality. Those conditions are no longer valid. Most breweries today are producing quality beers and most beers are being turned over quickly enough and looked after properly. With higher hopping rates and international beer styles becoming more prevalent in cask ale, we need to take a more modern approach to the way in which it is served and marketed. As consumers are looking for more natural and flavourful beers, we can satisfy their needs with unfined beer. Younger drinkers in particular are unconcerned about clarity. If you make comparisons with the cider category, you can liken unfined beer to scrumpy cider, where cloudiness is a positive selling attribute of a more natural product. Benefits of unfined beer to the landlord:

Less wastage – You may yield more beer per cask.

More movements – Finings stop working after a handful of movements. With unfined beer you can move it as often as needed (prior to service).

Less temperature sensitive – Finings are very temperature sensitive. We would never suggest storing beer in anything other than a cooled environment; however, unfined beer will be more forgiving to temperature variations.

Easier cellar management – Beers that can be more stubborn to drop when fined can be served quicker as the haze factor is removed from the equation.

Fewer complaints – consumers do complain about fined beer that appears with even a minor haze, even though the beer smells and tastes good. As unfined beer is meant to be served with a haze you are removing a cause for complaint.

were extremely impressed with the improvement in taste and smell of the unfined beer that they tried compared with the fined version and would like to see some of the local Kentish brewers promote unfined beer in our local pubs. They claimed that the beer smelt, tasted, and felt brighter and fuller as more components of the beer such as hop oil and yeast remain in suspension. Also, there are no fish products or preservatives present to interfere with the beer. Hoppiness was improved. There will need to be a transition period required to educate everyone as to the merits of unfined beer. Some may be reluctant, especially more traditional ale drinkers as there are decades of belief and prejudice to overcome relating to cloudy beer. However, Moor Beer have found that with the right education, more than 90% of their customers prefer unfined beer and have found that where presented well has attracted new customers eager to drink unfined beer and not fish guts. Extracts taken from Moor Beer Company website, www.moorbeer.co.uk At the Minehead Beer Festival, Unfined Southern Star was voted ‘Somerset Beer of the Festival’. The voting is done by the consumers, not beer judges. Fined Southern Star was presented next to Unfined Southern Star and consumers voted overwhelmingly not only for Southern Star, but for the unfined version specifically. I think that says it all, especially considering the variety and quality of beer on offer at the festival.

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A pub in Bath subsequently found the idea interesting and put Unfined Revival next to Revival at their festival, and also voted Unfined Revival best.


A Review of Sandgate Pubs Having read “More Tales from the Tap Room” ably researched by Martin Easton and Eamonn Rooney, members of the local branch decided to review the few remaining pubs in Sandgate and mourn the loss of so many that appeared in the book. We started at the Earl of Clarendon, named after George William Frederick Villiers 4th Earl of Clarendon. Originally the Clarendon Inn locally referred to as “The Clarry”. This ex Mackeson and Shepherd Neame house became a free house on Brewers Hill when Ron and Angela took over the pub in October 2009. Brewers Hill, formally Camp Road, was the original main route from the beach to & from Shorncliffe Camp. The pub now serves four rotating beers from around the country and has had over 400 different beers in the last two years. Recent beers have been from Hopdaemon, Harviestoun, Gadds, Whitstable, Brains and Old Dairy. The pub has appeared in the GBG (Good Beer Guide) some 12 times in the last 33 years. Food is served 12-3 and 6-9 every day, except Sunday evening. There’s sport on TV and a bar billiards table. From the Clarendon we went to the Royal Norfolk Hotel (GBG 1974), at the bottom of Sandgate Hill, which has held a licence since 1804 and was rebuilt in 1902. Originally called the Ship Inn, the name was changed in honour of the Duchess of Norfolk who stayed at the Ship Inn in 1901. The hotel still provides accommodation with fine views over the sea. Shepherd Neame Master Brew and Sharps Doombar beers were available on our visit. Pub food is available every day with an excellent carvery on Sundays from 1 to 5 p.m. The Providence Inne, just along the High Street, was a George Beer of Canterbury Beer House until the brewery merged with Rigdens of Dover in 1922. In 1948 wine was added to the licence and in 1949 the pub became a Fremlins House after the acquisition by the Faversham brewer of George Beer and

Rigdens. The pub was granted a full licence in 1955 and extended the premises by expanding into the former Sea Breeze café next door. John and Marg Latchford developed the business in the 1970’s, a friendly, welcoming hostelry and is now run by their son John. The pub is part of the Punch Taverns Pub Co and was serving three different beers from Wells/ Youngs and Sharps when we visited. At the Folkestone Rowing Club, on the seafront, visitors can be signed in to sample the two hand pumped beers, usually Old Speckled Hen and a changing guest. It is planned that their regular Open Days will include a beer festival in future, the first was in October with more planned for 2012. Finally we reached the Ship Inn (17 times in GBG in last 26 years), which stretches from its traditional gabled front on the main road to the new restaurant and upper deck (opened in 2010) overlooking the sea. The original 1798 alehouse was in the middle (now the back bar), visited by the Time Team in 2007. The pub expanded into an old manor house on Sandgate Road in the 1860s. The pub has had only three landlords since 1932, with Stuart and Wendy taking over on the 16th April 1985. The range of 3 or 4 Greene King beers has long been supplemented by Hopdaemon Incubus, Hopback Summer Lightning, Biddenden ciders (dry and medium) and Harvey’s Old during the Winter months. From Summer 2011, Crazy Goat cider, and a beer from Dark Star in Sussex, have been added to the regular offerings. Martin Easton and Eamonn Rooney listed 32 pubs and a brewery in “More Tales from the Tap Room” (which must have been a problem for the military at Shorncliffe during the wars), but the remaining pubs and club was enough to visit on a single evening. Sandgate Drinkers

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Find the 12 Pub Names in the Wordsearch Please return this completed page to:

( a photocopy is acceptable)

CAMRA AF&RM Winter Competition, The Cottage, The Green, Saltwood, Kent CT21 4PS by 24 February 2012 and the first drawn correct entry will receive a mystery prize. Name: Address:

Postcode: Telephone: The lucky winner of the Autumn Sudoku competition was Chris Excell from Ashford who won some Real Ale (in a bottle). Marsh Mash Winter 2011 Page 16


Book Review KENTISH BREWERS AND THE BREWERS OF KENT A Historical Directory of Kent Brewers by Peter Moynihan, introduction by Bobby Neame, President of Shepherd Neame Kent, sir - everybody knows Kent - apples, cherries, hops, and women”

The Pickwick Papers, Charles Dickens This recently published book represents over 30 years of careful and painstaking research by Peter Moynihan into the brewing firms that operated in the county. The book attempts to list all the brewing firms that existed in Kent over the last 300 years. Some of the early brewers were just producing beer for their own domestic purposes, while others were brewing for the local ale house or tavern. Regardless of their origins, Peter traces each enterprise so that a complete history of each firm is presented. There are 144 towns, villages and hamlets recorded in the book and the index runs to over 1,300 entries showing how influential the industry was in the county. Some of these were small but others extremely large and influential. Peter tracks each one showing dates and presenting well researched facts. Many of the individual histories are illustrated with adverts, labels and photographs, some in colour. You can find out about many of the names still familiar to us today such as Fremlins, Mackesons, and of course Shepherd Neame. Learn how “Sheps” came to be the “Oldest Brewery in Britain”, as well finding out about how so many of those companies fell beside the wayside.

by the Jutes and West Kent by the Saxons. The Jutes felt themselves to be nobler than the Saxons and right down to this day those born east of the Medway are Men (or Maids) of Kent whilst those born west of the river Medway are mere Kentish Men (or Maids)!” Peter was born in Croydon, Surrey, and began his beer drinking career in a Charringtons’ pub. Whilst his friends drank the IPA bitter, he preferred their dark mild fresh from the hand-pump. A move to Kent in the early 1970s introduced him to the hoppy delights of Shepherd Neame and Fremlins and when the “real ale” movement started in earnest he joined CAMRA and remains a Life Member. Having a keen interest in history, he also began to research the brewing companies that had disappeared over the years. He soon discovered, and joined, the Brewery History Society, taking an active part in the Society’s affairs, for many years; he served as the editor of its newsletter, helping to turn it into a Journal which has become well respected in the worlds of both business history and brewing. An essential book for all those interested in brewing, beer and all things Kentish.

Entries are in chronological order under a place heading with the story of each brewing site continuing to its conclusion, be that closure, takeover or modern day trading.

Published and available from:The Brewery History Society (reference AFRM) 102 Ayelands, New Ash Green, LONGFIELD, Kent DA3 8JW price £18.95 plus £3.50 p&p or by e-mail knsmi522@aol.com and a Paypal invoice will be issued.

When asked about the title Peter confirmed that “The people of Kent have long memories and they remember 1,500 years ago when East Kent was colonised ISBN 1 873966 18 0 282pp A4 colour softback

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Real Cider area that sell at least one “real� cider throughout the Real cider is a longyear by providing them with an appropriate door established drink, sticker, see below: which is produced naturally from apples and is neither carbonated nor pasteurised. However real cider is in a similar situation to that which faced real ale some 40 years ago with the number of outlets for real cider diminishing even in Kent. The situation with perry (which is made from pears) is even worse, as it is rarely available away from the farm gate. It is unfortunate that many of the most well known ciders in the UK are cold, fizzy keg products, which have been produced artificially rather than naturally. It is well worth tracking down some real ciders and perries as more and more people are discovering for themselves how deliciously mellow, aromatic and intoxicating the flavours of naturally produced real cider can be. As a result of the difficulties facing real cider, CAMRA set up a cider and perry committee within CAMRA to inform customers about the choice of real cider and perry available and to encourage the producers to continue production. Kent is now home of some 15 good cider producers (they are not all in the West Country) and our members have been busy visiting pubs in the branch

The pubs in our branch area displaying this sticker are listed below: Black Lion - Appledore Five Bells - Brabourne Shepherd and Crook - Burmarsh British Lion - Folkestone Chambers - Folkestone East Cliff Tavern - Folkestone Hoodeners Horse - Great Chart Dukes Head - Hythe Three Mariners - Hythe Bell Inn - Ivychurch

Farriers Arms - Mersham Black Horse - Monks Horton Rose and Crown - Old Romney Ship - Sandgate Red Lion - Snargate Crown - St Michaels , Tenterden Swan - Wittersham Cinque Ports Arms - New Romney Star Inn - St Mary in the Marsh

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Kent Cider Producers Badgers Hill Farm, Chilham (01227 730573) Biddenden Cider, Biddenden (01580 291726) Castle Cider Company, Chiddingstone (01732 455977) Double Vision Cider, Boughton Monchelsea (01622 746633) Johnson’s Farmhouse Cider, Isle of Sheppey (01795 665203) Pawley Farm Cider, Painters Forstal (01795 532043) Rough Old Wife Cider, Old Wives Lees (01227 700757 or 07768 364353) Broomfield Orchard, Herne Bay 01227 362279 Big Tree Cider, Hartley, (01474 705221 or 07973 677123) Kent Cider Company, Faversham (07738 573818) Core Fruit Products Ltd, Mystole, Canterbury, (01227 730589 or 07885 800826) East Stour Cider Co , Mersham (07880 923398) Merry Moon, Mersham (07707 309041) North Downs Cider (07747 343892) Pine Trees Farm Doddington, (01795 886266)

Point to Ponder When I first started to buy pints in the pub they were approximately half the price of a measure of whisky or gin. I don’t remember anybody drinking vodka although rum was quite common. In those days the standard measure was 1/5 of a gill, about 23ml in new money. Today a measure in pubs is 25ml, with some 35ml and the price about two thirds of a pint. If the government were to increase the tax on spirits to reflect the differential to that of the 60s, when the purchase of alcohol was supervised by “responsible” pub or off-licence staff, the additional tax revenue would most likely significantly reduce the countries debt, or more likely, reduce the amount of young drunkenness in the street.

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As I progress deeper into old age, it seems that the authorities are increasingly out to persecute me using nonsensical rules to pile their misery on. Is it not enough that they class me as a binge drinker because about once a week I like to relax over 4 pints of moderate strength beer (around 4%) or that the Council have introduced unintelligible rules that mean I am not allowed to catch a bus after 11pm unless it is on a Saturday or Sunday. But now as I creep towards another milestone in only a couple of years (the magic age of 65) they have come up with the daftest edict you have ever seen and I am judging that by their own barmy standards!

recommendations come from and the flimsiest way they are researched and put together.

The report recommends that GPs screen everyone over 65 for excessive drinking and if they persist in ignoring this new “safe limit” treat them for addiction. Minette Martin summed this up well in the Sunday Times when she said, “This is heartlessly silly. One can only gasp at the mindset of the people who dreamt it up. For its lack of perspective, lack of human understanding, lack of common sense, and lack of political realism, this must be up there with the pronouncements of the Archbishop of Canterbury!” She adds, “No doubt there are geriatric problem drinkers. No doubt old The Royal College of Psychiatrists has people metabolise alcohol less efficiently than produced a report, imaginatively entitled “Our the young. No doubt booze interferes with Invisible Addicts” that recommends that people pills. No doubt there are old people who over 65 years restrict themselves to a small drown their loneliness in booze, but none of glass of wine for women or a pint of average that justifies this puritanical mass bullying.” strength beer for men each day! It doesn’t The report recommends that General explain the sexism of only recommending wine for ladies and beer for men but we will let that Practitioners should screen every person over 65 years of age for substance misuse as part of pass as the whole document is so appallingly a routine health check, using tools such as the put together for an academic document, with Michigan Alcoholism Screening Test – Geriatric bizarre recommendations seemingly picked version (SMAST-G). Well this can be from thin air, few sensible recommendations downloaded from the Internet: here in its and illogical conclusions drawn from little entirety. It can only take a couple of minutes so apparent research. The report can be see how you score. downloaded from the Internet via a straightforward Google search and is worth a Scores YES=1; NO=0 look just to see where crass Government

1. 2.

When talking with others, do you ever underestimate how much you actually drink?

3.

Does having a few drinks help decrease your shakiness or tremors?

4.

Does alcohol sometimes make it hard for you to remember parts of the day or night?

5.

Do you usually take a drink to relax or calm your nerves?

After a few drinks, have you sometimes not eaten or been able to skip a meal because you do not feel hungry?

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6.

Do you drink to take your mind of problems?

7.

Have you increased your drinking after experiencing a loss in your life?

8.

Has a doctor of nurse ever said that they were worried about your drinking?

9.

Have you ever made rules to manage your drinking?

10.

When you feel lonely, does having a drink help?

The test then decrees that answering “Yes” to two or more questions is indicative of an alcohol problem! It would seem likely then that this test could well result in a high number of drinkers requiring treatment; can the NHS cope with such a surge in new patients and what the cost? It seems that every NHS appointment these days includes an interrogation on how much alcohol you drink, often with the information logged on your record. The current recommended drinking limits for everyone are 21 units a week for men and 14 units a week for women. Yet it has been recognised that these figures were pulled out of the air and have no medical base. Richard Smith, a member of the Royal College of Physicians Working Party, recommended safe limits back in 1987 who said “I remembered the epidemiologist on the working party saying that we couldn’t produce safe limits because we didn’t have enough evidence. But the feeling of the working party was that we should come up with something. So we combined the data we had with the centuries of experience of doctors and came up with 21 units for men and 14 units for women.” He also said, “It’s probable that several of those on the working party drank more than that, but, clearly when recommending what will be safe you want to be cautious.” In other words, it was a bit of guesswork, an arbitrary figure but guesswork that somehow became entrenched as statement of fact. “Problem drinking is only a problem for those with a problem, whether you drink heavily or

lightly, beer can be good for you and is an enjoyable and legal pastime, so enjoy it!” Since 1987 there has been some evidence that recommended limits should be raised, indeed if the whole process had some basic common sense applied to it and utilised levels that were clearly more believable, it might start to become more useful and drinkers might accept the guidance and start to change their lifestyle appropriately. But so strong is the anti -alcohol lobby that this isn’t going to happen and so we will be stuck with the current discredited advice that will be mainly ignored, aggravated by further stupid declarations like this latest one on the over-65s So thanks to this heartless report, be prepared to continue to read “advice” that suggests anyone over 65 who drinks more than a cupful of alcohol needs medical help and watch as old people are now bullied about their modest drinking and shamed out of one of the few remaining pleasures of old age. When I was younger we were taught to respect our elders, now we seem happy to treat them with patronizing contempt. Well I for one am not putting up with it, I am having a beer when I fancy one and will drink as much of it as I like and if they don’t like it they can shove it where the sun doesn’t shine! Steve Westby, Nottingham Drinker (CAMRA’s Nottingham Branch Newsletter)

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Marsh Mash Winter 2011 Page 22


Another Point to Ponder Are we being fooled!! On 1st October the Government introduced a lower duty rate of 50p/pint on beers under 2.8% abv. So far I have found Tolly English Ale, brewed by Greene King in a Free House at 50p/pint under the price of the remaining beers available. The other day I realised that Mann’s Brown Ale, now brewed by Refresh a subsidiary of Marstons, is also 2.8%abv. Has anyone seen a reduction of 25p/bottle in pubs?

Marsh Mash Winter 2011 Page 23


Spa Valley Railway Beer Festival One of our neighbouring branches, West Kent, has taken a leaf from our book and held a beer festival in conjunction with a heritage railway, this time the Spa Valley Railway based in Tunbridge Wells. The Spa Valley Railway run heritage steam and diesel trains along a 5 mile route through the Kent and Sussex Weald from Tunbridge Wells via High Rocks, Groombridge to Eridge for connections with the National Rail, Southern Trains that run between Uckfield and London. In October, this was the first CAMRA Beer Festival held in conjunction with the Spa Valley Railway and was a smaller scale version of our festival held in June with the K&ESR and was held in the engine shed at Tunbridge Wells West station.

driver, 2-pint containers were available for taking beer home and also bottle containers for the Moodley's bottled beers. Based upon a e-mail from a local CAMRA member Peter Chamberlain.

In addition to about 20 beers and 5 ciders that were available in the engine shed, there were two beers on each of the trains. Additional beers were also available at each of the intermediate stations, providing a choice of about 30 beers from local and national breweries, all found to be in “good nick”. Four of the 20 beers and 3 of the five ciders had run out by 3pm on the Sunday. The festival did not provide any musical entertainment except for Morris Dancers and the other beer drinker’s favourite pastime steam trains. Is this why most railway junctions were named after pubs? For those who used private transport and did not have a tolerant Marsh Mash Winter 2011 Page 24


Marsh Mash Winter 2011 Page 25


White Cliffs Festival of Winter Ales Friday 3rd & Saturday 4th February 2012 The Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) Deal, Dover, Sandwich and District branch is proud to announce the 19th White Cliffs Festival of Winter Ales.

so please do not drink and drive! A local cider is also on offer. This is the 19th year the Festival of Winter Ales has been held at the oldest and most historic venue for a beer festival in the country. See the superb stained glass windows, the collection of arms and the official portraits of the Lord Wardens of the Cinque Ports.

The White Cliffs Festival of Winter Ales has been hosted by the Deal Dover and Sandwich Branch of CAMRA every year since 1994. The event is held in Dover's Town Hall and each year people enjoy a range of around 75 winter Location: & strong ales, none less than 5% ABV, mostly Maison Dieu (Town Hall), Biggin Street, Dover, from small independents and micro-breweries - Kent, CT16 1DL Date & Time: Friday 3rd February 2012 from 1pm to 11pm Saturday 4th February 2012 from 10.30am to 6pm (unless the beer runs out) Admission: ÂŁ5.00 on Friday, ÂŁ2.00 on Saturday. Free to card-carrying CAMRA members. Admission will be refunded if you join CAMRA at the beer festival.

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Beers: All beers are ÂŁ2.50 a pint and will be available from Friday, subject to condition. Glasses: Souvenir glasses are available for ÂŁ3.00. Refunds will be given if returned intact Food: Food is available at the venue, however no food or drink may be brought in and consumed at the festival Wheelchair Access: Please contact staff on arrival or in advance telephone (01304) 201200 Families: Families with well-behaved children are especially welcome on Saturday afternoon Seating: Plenty of seating is available in the Connaught Hall Entertainment: CAMRA stall, Tombola, etc. Music on Friday evening and Saturday afternoon Accommodation: There are plenty of Bed & Breakfast facilities available in Dover . Volunteers: Our Beer Festival is run and staffed by unpaid volunteers and we always need more volunteer staff. Please do not think that you have to work behind a bar, there are plenty of other jobs to be done.

Now in its 39th edition, CAMRA's Good Beer Guide 2012 is fully revised and updated, with details of more than 4,500 pubs across the country serving the best real ale.

You don't have to give up a whole day or a whole evening, just tell us when you think you can help and what you think you can do.

From country inns to urban style bars and backstreet boozers, all selected and reviewed by over 125,000 CAMRA members, this is your definitive guide to finding the perfect pint! .

Note: Please bring your CAMRA membership card with you when you register to work at the beer festival, if you do not have it, you may not be allowed to help.

Also available as an E-Book, Mobile App and for your Sat Nav device.

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12 Ales for Christmas by Shirley Johnson On the first day of Christmas, my true love gave to me.....

A pint of Naylor’s Christmas Lights

On the second day of Christmas, my true love gave to me.....

2 pints of Conwy’s Hoppy Christmas and a Naylor’s Christmas Lights

On the third day of Christmas, my true love gave to me..... 3 pints of Ridgeway’s Bad Elf, 2 Conwy’s Hoppy Christmas and a Naylor’s Christmas Lights

On the fourth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me..... 4 pints of Oakleaf’s Reindeer’s Delight, 3 Ridgeway’s Bad Elf, 2 Conwy’s Hoppy Christmas and a Naylor’s Christmas Lights

On the fifth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me..... 5 pints of Cheddar Ales Festive Totty..... 4 Oakleaf’s Reindeer’s Delight, 3 Ridgeway’s Bad Elf, 2 Conwy’s Hoppy Christmas and a Naylor’s Christmas Lights

On the sixth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me..... 6 pints of Cotleigh’s Red Nosed Reinbeer 5 Cheddar’s Festive Totty’s 4 Oakleaf’s Reindeer’s Delight, 3 Ridgeway’s Bad Elf, 2 Conwy’s Hoppy Christmas and a Naylor’s Christmas Lights

On the seventh day of Christmas, my true love gave to me..... 7 pints of Bath Ales Festivity, 6 Cotleigh’s Red Nosed Reinbeer 5 Cheddar Ales’ Festive Totty’s 4 Oakleaf’s Reindeer’s Delight, 3 Ridgeway’s Bad Elf, 2 Conwy’s Hoppy Christmas and a Naylor’s Christmas Lights

Marsh Mash Winter 2011 Page 28


On the eighth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me.....

On the eleventh day of Christmas, my true love gave to me.....

8 pints of Hook Norton Twelve Days, 7 Bath Ales Festivity, 6 Cotleigh’s Red Nosed Reinbeer 5 Cheddar’s Festive Totty’s 4 Oakleaf’s Reindeer’s Delight, 3 Ridgeway’s Bad Elf, 2 Conwy’s Hoppy Christmas and a Naylor’s Christmas Lights

11 pints of Elgood’s Wenceslas Winter Warmer 10 Teignworthy Christmas Cracker, 9 Hopback’s Pickled Santa, 8 Hook Norton Twelve Days, 7 Bath Ales Festivity, 6 Cotleigh’s Red Nosed Reinbeer 5 Cheddar’s Festive Totty’s 4 Oakleaf’s Reindeer’s Delight, On the ninth day of Christmas, my true love 3 Ridgeway’s Bad Elf, gave to me..... 2 Conwy’s Hoppy Christmas and a Naylor’s Christmas Lights 9 pints of Hopback’s Pickled Santa, 8 Hook Norton Twelve Days, On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true 7 Bath Ales Festivity, love gave to me..... 6 Cotleigh’s Red Nosed Reinbeer 5 Cheddar’s Festive Totty’s 12 pints of Harveys Christmas Ale, 4 Oakleaf’s Reindeer’s Delight, 11 Elgood’s Wenceslas Winter Warmer, 3 Ridgeway’s Bad Elf, 10 Teignworthy Christmas Cracker, 2 Conwy’s Hoppy Christmas 9 Hopback’s Pickled Santa, and a Naylor’s Christmas Lights 8 Hook Norton Twelve Days, 7 Bath Ales Festivity, 6 Cotleigh’s Red Nosed Reinbeer On the tenth day of Christmas, my true love 5 Cheddar’s Festive gave to me..... Totty’s 4 Oakleaf’s 10 pints of Teignworthy Christmas Cracker, Reindeer’s Delight, 9 Hopback’s Pickled Santa, 3 Ridgeway’s Bad Elf, 8 Hook Norton Twelve Days, 2 Conwy’s Hoppy 7 Bath Ales Christmas Festivity, and a Naylor’s 6 Cotleigh’s Red Christmas Lights Nosed Reinbeer 5 Cheddar’s Festive Totty’s There was no thirteenth day as 4 Oakleaf’s Reindeer’s Delight, boy, was I hammered !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 3 Ridgeway’s Bad Elf, 2 Conwy’s Hoppy Christmas and a Naylor’s Christmas Lights Marsh Mash Winter 2011 Page 29


Since the last edition of Marsh Mash two other pubs have agreed to provide a Locally brewed ale, The Britannia, Hythe and the White Hart also in Hythe If your local pub regularly serves beers brewed within 30 miles of your pub, please let us know and we will consider them for LocAle accreditation and help with the environment The following are the current pubs that have been accredited :Brabourne

Five Bells

Elham

Kings Arms

Folkestone

Chambers

Hastingleigh

Bowl

Hythe

Three Mariners

Hythe

Britannia

Hythe

White Hart

Mersham

Farriers Arms

Monks Horton

Black Horse

New Romney

Cinque Port Arms

Rolvenden

Star

Sandgate

Ship

Snargate

Red Lion

Wittersham

Swan

Woodchurch

Six Bells

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Nice thought but… With the restriction of not being able to use my bus pass after closing time and the threat of further cut backs in rural bus routes, this photograph was sent to me with the suggestion of build your own pub. The only problem that I see is being able to drink a firkin of ale within 3 days and to conform to the medical advice of a pint a day (discussed elsewhere) now that I’m over 65 - plus my garden isn’t large enough!!! Also any “free loaders” wouldn’t be able to get home because there are no late night buses and my house is too small to accommodate them.

Still it was a nice thought!! Marsh Mash Winter 2011 Page 31


Marsh Mash Winter 2011  

The FREE Magazine of the Ashford, Folkestone & Romney Marsh Branch of CAMRA

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