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24 LALE DIRECTORY LALE FEATURES 04 TRAVEL waltzing through Austria; Travel Tips 12 GOURMET Marriott Pastry Chef Ercan Egi 16 NEIGHBOURHOOD Stunning Sirkeci 26 ART Artist Caroline Gaujour; 12th Edition of Printemps


des Artistes



54 SUSTAINABILITY The benefits of art 58 BOOKS Ann Patchett’s Commonwealth 60 TRIVIA Get to know the tulip



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Adres/ Address: Esentepe Mahallesi, Büyükdere Caddesi, Ecza Sokak. Pol Center No: 4/1, Levent, Istanbul – TURKEY Telephone: 0212 705 6215 Dergi Adı / Magazine Name: Lale, Monthly Programme of the International Women of İstanbul

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Sorumlu Yazı İşleri Müdürü / Responsible Editor: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul

Basım Tarihi: 24.08.2017 Sayı: 89 Official Facebook page: Instagram account @iwistanbul

Yayın Türü / Issue Type: Yerel Süreli

Cover photo: PixaBay

Yayını Yapan / Publisher: IWI International Women of İstanbul, Dernek Kod: 34-64/027




Mums N Kids Coordinator

Business Networking Administrator

Vice Chairwoman

Newcomers Coordinator (Asian Side)

Social Responsibility Administrator

Treasurer Secretary Business Networking Coordinator Communications Coordinator Community Coordinator Events Coordinator Lale Editor

Newcomers Coordinator (European Side) Online Marketing Coordinator Programs Coordinator Social Responsibility Coordinator Sponsorship Coordinator Volunteers Coordinator

Membership Coordinator LALE MAGAZINE is the bi-monthly publication of the International Women of Istanbul. Our aim is to connect international women living in and around Istanbul, to share information, and to help the city feel like home. We cover a range of topics from the arts, business networking, culture, food, health, travel, social responsibility, style, and more! For more information, visit

Program Team Members Sponsor Support Administrator Venue Administrator LALE MAGAZINE TEAM Advertising Coordinator Lale Deputy Editor Art Director Photo Editor

I LI KE TO JOKE T H AT I H AV E regular feng shui attacks, which means that I am constantly reorganizing, rearranging and getting rid of things that perhaps I really need to hold on to. As I look around my spare apartment, devoid of knickknacks that undoubtedly saves me time dusting and cleaning, it is probably the reason why after two and half years here, that my house still does not feel like a home.

I’m not one to get too attached to possessions, but there are two things I had to leave behind upon moving to Turkey, that I still wonder about. One was a gigantic armoire made with ancient Indian doors that I adored, but was a beast of burden. Nobody, except for weightlifters could move this thing, and it damaged lot of walls and doors in the process. The other was a painting. On a visit to my ancestral home in India, we visited a local artist who painted beautiful depictions of stories from Hindu mythology. It was the first time I was buying “real” art, from the artist himself, and it was an event that made me feel like an adult. As I look back, buying it felt like an act of kinship because it was something I had that was representative of my culture and heritage. I took care to have it framed beautifully, and in the disposable culture I lived in, was one of the few things that followed me wherever I moved. When we relocated to Turkey, I pragmatically gave 99% of what we owned to charity, friends and family. The picture was given to


art forms, from poetry to painting to dance. I also loved talking about art with my mother, who always encouraged these types of discussions. When I would say, “Oh, I like that,” she would reply, “Why?” as if challenging my opinion. Articulating your feelings is difficult at any age, of course; but for a child it can be a real challenge. When I was unable to express my thoughts in words I would quote Robert Frost, one of my favorite poets as a child: “And of course there must be something wrong in wanting to silence any song.” My mother would laugh. In a way, it was our little joke. Even today, I often challenge myself with that question “Why?”, even knowing that I may not have the answer. I also know it is okay not to know, as long as you strive to find the solution. With the International Women of Istanbul (IWI), I may not have all of the answers. In fact, I often wonder if I really know what the questions are. But I do have a great network of support from

my cousin, and I don’t know if it has survived his cross-country move. Even if he’s not enjoying it, I hope someone else is. In spite of my minimalist aesthetic, the arts play an important role in my life, and in all of our lives. Art adds colour and texture, evokes time and place, and provides us with a common language when we find ourselves away from “home.” I hope you enjoy our SpringyIST Arts issue, which features immensely talented and thoughtful creators who are shaping our world, and hopefully inspiring us to do the same. MO N I S H A K AR

Lale Editor

other members, the IWI Board, and our community. Over the last two years, I have seen how important this organization’s long history of support has been to Istanbul; and I am proud to be a part of it. Along with her great history, Istanbul has many talented artists (past and present). Every spring, Printemps Des Artistes holds their annual exhibition which introduces brilliant new artists based in Istanbul. We have a sneak peek into this year’s exhibit on pages 30 – 40. I know, as I stroll through the exhibition I will hear my mother’s voice challenging me with “Why?”, which ultimately will make me smile. Warmest Regards, AN N A I LH AN

IWI Chairwoman


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Feature and Photography



ravel presents elements of old and new. I find this combination so invigorating. It gives me the opportunity to have the eyes of a child again, to look upon a land, object or opportunity for the first time. And while my eye sparkles with novelty, I realize that what is new to my eye, has indeed been there for tens, hundreds maybe even thousands of years. This magical recipe of new and old makes travel a personally addicting potion. To me, to travel is about looking for the modern and traditional. What in history has made this place significant? And what characteristics describe life there now? I have had the immense pleasure of travelling to dozens of countries, and with that pleasure often comes the repeated question, “Which country has been your favorite?” I can’t bring myself to answer the question as directly as it beckons, because every place I go to becomes a part of me somehow. Although, if I had to recommend one European country to tour, Austria would be among the top contenders. Not many countries can waltz like Austria, seamlessly dancing between city life and countryside. This versatility is one of the main reasons I love it. There is untouched natural beauty to marvel at throughout the countryside and impressive, wellpreserved history to appreciate in the city. The Austrian Alps practically beg for winter sports to be enjoyed throughout their slopes. Numerous locations in Austria consistently top lists for the best skiing, snowboarding, and sledding in Europe. If you’re not a snow bunny, other outdoor activities such as mountain biking and hiking call from the Alps as well. Or simply

skip sports altogether and trade skis for pumps, as Austria is renowned for palaces and museums. Lose yourself in baroque architecture, grandiose palaces, clifftop fortresses and enviable art collections. Stomp around the city all day, stopping only momentarily to fuel with a street-sold bratwurst. Still craving for more? Then end your day on a high by putting on your finest attire for delectable dining and world-famous opera.

WHEN TO GO Austria is a perfect spring getaway. High season for travel is April through October. I suggest traveling in the Spring; everything will be blooming, and you’ll be able to enjoy the country just before the crowds get too high. I went in late April. The weather was nice and sunny during the day, but evening required a light jacket. High season for skiing is mid-December to March.

WHERE TO GO Salzburg If you grew up watching the film The Sound of Music, you will be well versed with the World Heritage City of Salzburg; located on Austria’s western side, just shy of the German border. The metropolis’ population is small, in comparison to the country’s capital city, Vienna, but no less intriguing. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born in Salzburg on January 27, 1756. The city beams with pride of their celebrated son, even producing specialized chocolate in his honour. Mozart


PRECEDING PAGE Facade in Graben, Old Quarter Vienna THIS PAGE Top Lake District Bottom Vienna city center at evening OPPOSITE Beaulieu Cafe, Vienna NEXT SPREAD Left Hallstatt Palace, Vienna Right Salzburg Lake District

chocolates (Mozartkugeln) are pistachio marzipan-centered treats hand-dipped in dark chocolate nougant, sold all around town. Getreidegasse is the neighborhood of Mozart’s birthplace. His newborn digs are just one of two museums in Salzburg dedicated to the musical genius. Across the Salzach River is the home in which Mozart’s family lived from 1773 to 1781. This famous house, in the area of Staatsbrucke, is also a modern-day museum, displaying childhood instruments of the composer. If the Mozart chocolates gave your taste buds any sort of inkling, you’ll be delighted to know Salzburg hogs more Michelin stars than any other city in the country. Thirty-one Michelin honours are contained within the city’s limits, so the hunt for good food need not be tireless. If I could recommend anything to do in Salzburg, reserve a day for The Sound of Music Tour. Let Panorama Tours take you through the city and countryside landscapes, to where scenes of the award-winning film and musical was filmed.


Mirabell Palace and Gardens commence the trip. The gardens are peaceful and showcase flowers manicured to pristine conditions. Sound of Music’s “Do-Re-Mi” scene was filmed on the steps near the Pegasus Fountain in the gardens. Even if you can’t commit to the tour, enjoy a coffee, read a good book, or walk in these royal gardens. Idyllically situated Schloss Leopoldskron is the next stop on the tour, where the film portrayed the Captain’s backyard and private palace gardens. The estate is grounded on small, beautiful Lake Leopoldskron; picturesque, to say the least. One of my favorite songs from the film was, “16 going on 17.” The romantic scene took place at a gazebo that is still available to dance in today. I took advantage of this opportunity and tried my best to reenact the scene at Hellbrunn Palace. Across from the gazebo is a massive flower field that beckons to be frolicked in. Nonberg Abbey and the wedding chapel in Mondsee are also pit stops along the guided journey, but the halt in Salzburg’s Lake District Area was that of a postcard. Panoramic shots of the film’s picnic scenes took place here. The landscape will make you feel as if you can sing just like Julie Andrews. I encourage you to try.

your incline walking capabilities with a steep fifteen-minute climb to Hohensalzburg or enjoy a ride up in the glass Festungsbahn funicular. I enjoyed a coffee break at the top, soaking up the majestic view. If you have extra time, do as the locals; picnic, read a book or just people watch by the Salzburg river. Horse drawn carriage rides cater to tourists throughout the Old City.

Hallstatt Hallstatt is straight out of a fairytale and my favorite place in Austria. Populated with just over 700 people, the town is small and can be explored in a day. It is so idyllic that China attempted to build a full-scale replica. Accessible only by ferry, Hallstatt sits on the edge of a beautiful lake (Hallstätter See) framed by the Dachstein mountains (a mountain range in the Northern Limestone Alps). The village is Austria’s oldest and is recognized for holding the world’s first known salt mine, but the sheer beauty of the borough is such that it has risen to photogenic fame. Hallstatt can be walked end to end in under half an hour, but I doubt you can take more than a few steps without stopping for a photograph.

If The Sound of Music Tour doesn’t tickle your fancy, walk down Getreidgasse. This is the city’s main shopping lane and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stroll the street as you make your way to the structure that sits above the entire city.

You can spend a day in Hallstatt or stay the night. Either way I recommend travelling to Hallstatt by train. From the SalzburgHauptbanhof, ride a train to Attnang-Puchheim, then switch to a train to Hallstatt. Once in Hallstatt station, ride the ferry to the old town. The short ferry ride is absolute magic; your boat is surrounded 360 degrees by Alpine peaks, allowing only the town of Hallstatt to steal some of the show.

Hohensalzburg Castle is said to be Europe’s best-preserved fortress. Complete with a torture chamber, the nine-hundredyear-old walls offer panoramic views of the Salzach river, rooftop dwellings and the snow-capped Austrian Alps. Test

I find it hard to believe you could grow tired of wandering the tiny cobbled streets, lined with pastel colored baroque buildings and decorated with greenery and flowers. But if you need more, “World Heritage” views are available from the



Skywalk. If you wear walking shoes, I suggest hiking to the top. Charming paths house secret waterfalls along the way, and each rise in altitude offers a different photo perspective of lake, mountains and town below. Treat yourself with a glass of beer or wine at Rudolfsturm restaurant once you reach the summit.

Vienna Take the express train from Salzburg to the capital city and arrive in under three hours. Vienna is a city rich in art, a historical hub of famous musicians, keeper of Imperial Palaces and host of some crazy delicious street food. Composed of 23 districts, I recommend starting in Vienna’s District 1, home of St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The 12th centurybuilt church is the symbol of Vienna and a gothic marvel. Continue to District 2 where you can travel back in time to the age of empires. The Imperial Palace, Hofburg, is one of the largest palace complexes in the world. Tour the imperial apartments, museums, treasury and even a Spanish Riding school inside. Any big city tends to have great, international food choices but true travelling is indulging in the local cuisine. Austrian food is so much more than a schnitzel; sausages, schnapps and strudels are just a few of the traditional delicacies. Try a Wurstelstand; citizens claim that Wurstelstands are much more than street food kiosks. They are a part of Vienna’s identity and where myth says, politicians have allegedly solved world problems. Drumroll, please: the UNESCO-dubbed national treature and world-famous Schloss Schonbrunn (Schonbrunn Palace) should not be missed on your tour of Vienna. The premier palace and gardens are considered by many the most impressive and well-kept baroque structures of its kind, in all

of Europe. You can easily spend an entire day on the palace grounds, wandering through the many gardens when the weather is kind. It’s hard to believe this was a single-family residence. In the 17th century family. For the Habsburgs. If you can’t score tickets to a show at the Vienna State Opera House, take a tour of the ornately decorated interior. Meander Albertina Museum from Monet to Picasso and be inspired by some of the greatest art pieces in the world. Bonus points if you enjoy the fantastic view to the Vienna Opera House from the Albertinaplatz. Don’t go home without applying yourself to the apfelstrudel (apple strudel). I noticed many Viennese ordering apfelstrudel and espresso before going in to the office. Make it a point to eat a pastry at Demel; the famous pastry shop and chocolaterie won’t disappoint. The cities of Austria are enthralling but the countryside is what makes it truly unique. I can’t wait to return and enjoy more of the Lake Region and the hiking opportunities it offers. I may even take part in the exhilarating winter sports found there.

Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller. Ibn Battuta AUSTRIA Practical Tips Language German European emergency number 112 Time zone Central European Currency Euro


TRIED &TRUE “If we were meant to stay in one place, we’d have roots instead of feet, he said.” Rachel Wolchin I’m not one easily satisfied with routine, and that’s a good thing, because the expat life I live is anything but scheduled. Packing life into six or less suitcases, onto a transatlantic flight, has become the norm for my little family. I’d like to think that I’ve also become somewhat of an expert, through trial, error, experience and success. Whether for work, family holiday, or a bucket list vacation, here are a few of my tips and tricks Seize the day Tuesdays and Wednesdays are traditionally the least expensive days for air travel. Flights before eight in the morning tend to be cheaper. Flex Flights can vary in price significantly just by changing your trip dates by a few days. If your schedule permits, play around with your departure and arrival days. Keep your eyes peeled for long layovers while searching for flights. Last winter I spent an entire day in Paris without buying a ticket to France! Third-party booking sites Convenient, as they list all different airlines and prices, to and from your destination. You can also save money using these websites when combining hotel and/or car rental with your flight purchase. Check the airlines own website for their prices. I’ve saved significant dollars by purchasing my flight from as opposed to Expedia. Loyalty is not lost Airline credit cards, membership and rewards programs can save you major money in the long run. Location, Location, Location Before reserving a room with a view on, ask yourself, “How much am I going to be in my hotel room?” If your plan is to be poolside at an all-inclusive resort, comfy accommodation will be a priority on your list.


For adventurous or sightseeing vacations, five-star hotels are wasted money, but a good location could allow me to walk to more places and save money on transportation. Airbnb offers a more unique experience and saves you hotel taxes, staff tips and city tax. Go public Look up public transportation! Most big cities have great metros/tubes. If you’re planning to spend multiple days in one city, consider looking into their city card Hotels sometimes offer shuttle services. Meals and activities Your concierge is your friend. Use wisely and well. Don’t be afraid to use blogs or Instagram to help you plan. Packing Most flights limit your checked bag to fifty pounds. Weigh your bag before arriving to the airport. Put together full outfits before packing. Also, pack layers, no matter the destination, Mother Nature is unpredictable. Pack separate small bags for your shoes, lingerie and dirty laundry. Charge your devices the night before. bring an extra battery and SD card for your camera. If you anticipate a long travel day, invest in a portable charger. Hit the ground running! If check-in isn’t until late afternoon, most hotels will allow you to stow your suitcase with them. Rent a car and use Google Maps to pin locations and maximize your sightseeing time. . Lastly, enjoy it! And take a few photos. “A photograph is a return ticket to a moment otherwise gone.”

Ä°stanbul / Toronto Come explore with us!





T T E N D E E S O F I W I ’ S P O P U L A R baking classes at

the Marriott Hotel will recognize head pastry chef Ercan Egi. His passion for learning and innovation in the kitchen makes him a standout in the hospitality industry. When you attend a meeting at the Marriott Şişli, you can rest assured that you will leave well-fed. Since 2014, pastry chef Ercan Egi has been elevating the traditional coffee breaks to an artform. As the Marriott is a business hotel, they host many business meetings and events, which means lots of coffee breaks during the day. Ercan Bey has reconceptulised the theme and made them more memorable, creative and enjoyable for his guests. Say you are having waffles for breakfast, rather than merely serving it on a platter in a conventional way, it may be part of an elaborate display, attached to a rope, that you have to cut. In fact, the team was preparing for a business meeting for a construction company as I interviewed them. They were setting up a pizza station using an infrastructure concept which involved cranes and pulleys and industrial shelving set up. In his eyes, According to Egi “being talented isn’t enough – it is more important to be creative.”

The artistically arranged dish of cookies that were presented to me were made primarily with hazelnut, almond and pistachio nut flours instead of wheat flour. Whether you are watching your weight, or have allergies – it is this type of attention to detail and adapting recipes and concepts for clients that makes Egi’s creations so special. An important part of their planning is understanding who their clients are, in which industry they operate, and what the goals and activities of their meeting are. This process ensures that that guests have a customized experience. For multi-day events, he makes sure that there is something new or unique presented to them. If you have cookies for one break, perhaps at the next there will be a variety of seasoned popcorn in which to indulge the next time. While it may not occur to people that these special touches make a difference, in fact, by turning the traditional coffee break concept on its head, it actually encourages more networking, and more interactive discussions and options for the guests. So how did Egi start on the path to becoming a pastry chef? He hails from Tekirdağ in northwestern Turkey, well-known for its buffalo yogurt, rakı, cheeses and olive oil.


In school, they would experiment and do workshops every day, and there he realized he was talented and passionate about desserts as they provided an outlet for creative artistry. At the age of 16, he was interested in working in the hotel industry, so he chose a school with a strong culinary arts programme. While still in school, he started his career as an intern at the Radisson in the pastry kitchen. He was so excited about working, that upon graduating from school on Friday, he was immediately at work the next Monday. When he was working on that, he knew he had to press on with his education and attended Istanbul University to complete his program. He continued to work at the Radisson. “It was a huge hotel with a small pastry kitchen – so the team had to do everything by hand – nothing was produced outside of the hotel. In the hotel industry, quite a few of the food items are supplied from external vendors – but this wasn’t the case at the Radisson, we did everything from scratch. Because there was a small staff in the pastry kitchen, it put a lot of pressure on us, and it meant much more work and effort for me.” That pressure helped him grow skill-wise and made him a better chef. While he was working and studying, he participated in many competitions and has won numerous awards and championships for his creations. “Competition is so important to improve yourself – it helps to push your limits and test your creativity and talents. You have to prove and challenge yourself constantly.” To this day, he is still active in these competitions and continues to learn and improve his technique. Another important aspect of continuous growth and learning is to change organsations. “It is important to change hotels – if you stay in the same place for a long time, it becomes stagnant – and you have to adapt yourself to different kitchens, styles, teams, expectations, standards.” Regardless of your career path and interests, he recommends on the job training and continuous learning for everyone.


“I will never give up my passion for learning. If you are young, you are more willing to learn – you are like an empty box. As you age – your box is full, and your capacity is limited, and you tend to become more selective.” So, after two and a half years in the Radisson, he went to the Ramada, and continuously worked his way up and around the hotel industry in Istanbul. He joined the Marriott in 2014, and is currently the head Pastry Chef. “I love the work here because it feels like it is home. It is the place where I can make my dreams come true.” And that brings us to the subject of bread — a staple in many households across the city. “What makes my pastry kitchen unique is the baking. In other restaurants and hotels, they do not bake their own bread.” According to Ercan Bey, bread is the most essential element of your day because you can serve it at breakfast, lunch and dinner. The kitchen decided to make a big change to their selections and offer more international options. They also happen to sell their bread to the general public two days a week, on Tuesdays and Fridays. You don’t have to be a hotel guest to buy the bread - you can order it in advance and ask for dinkel bread, sourdough bread, or red pumpernickel bread, as well as other baked goods such as muffins, bagels. They even sell their breads to other hotels! This is a big innovation for Marriott. The many calls, thank-you notes and overwhelmingly positive feedback they receive keep Egi’s team motivated to continually improve and create It makes Egi happy that people feel happy when they eat the work of his hands. He decided to teach people how to prepare and bake his specialties. The most important thing about the local and international breads is that the ingredients are sourced appropriately. “How you make your bread is important, but it is much more essential to have the right ingredients. If we are making a dinkel bread, the flour is coming from Germany. For Turkish breads, the flour is coming from Anatolia.”

Ercan Bey added that since we eat with all of our senses, there is a fine balance to maintain between presentation and taste. “Some people use these additional ingredients to make desserts appear more beautiful, but when you eat these items – because of these additional ingredients – the taste has been altered for the worse.” He is trying to keep a balance between sight and taste and tries not to use anything that would change the taste. And he’s always one to push himself! His current challenge is chocolate because it’s very hard to do well. “Chocolate is a challenge because it is much more niche – you need to be involved one-one-on with it. You cannot walk away from it, or leave it.” If you are working with dough, you can leave it for five to 10 minutes and work on another project. With chocolate, you need to be with the chocolate for tempering, shaping and glazing. It can take six to seven hours to create a chocolate project and thus requires more time and effort. And, since Egi is the head of the pastry kitchen, he needs to pay attention to every aspect of the kitchen. He is determined to master the art of chocolate though, and says, “I am fighting with the chocolate, but I will win!”

As for his personal and professional goals – he says he will be in the pasty kitchen until the end! He is most fulfilled when he has a lot of projects, and a dream of his is to start his own corporation with his wife (who happens to be a chef), that specializes in chocolate, pastries, bread and other baked goods. Ultimately, his work is to make people happy, and to inspire them. No matter how difficult the task, if it results in something beautiful and enjoyable, he is happy. If you’d like to put an end to boring breakfasts, you can place your order for handmade specialty pastries and breads with the Marriott. Call 90 212 375 0100 or e-mail info.marriottsisli@ Baked items are available every Tuesday and Friday, and can be picked up at My Bar between 1 and 11pm. Please order at least one day in advance of pick-up.







IRK EC I I S O N E O F I S TAN B U L’ S oldest quarters. With its several interesting

small museums it makes an ideal walking tour any time of the year, especially in March and April when the tulips start to bloom in Gülhane Park.

Once the main business centre of Istanbul, Sirkeci isn’t frequently visited by locals, yet its distinctive architecture and proximity to the Golden Horn is worth your time. Turkish neighbourhood names have fascinating etymology and English translations and the name ‘Sirkeci’ doesn’t disappoint. Meaning “vinegar-maker/seller” in Turkish, the neighbourhood, which is located in the Fatih district of the city, is a combination of small shops, hans, offices, and known for its boutique hotels and traditional Turkish restaurants. It’s probably best known for its historic train station, Sirkeci Gar, which was the eastern terminus of the famous Orient Express train line, which brought many notable passengers to the cosmopolitan Istanbul. As a result, many hotels popped up to accommodate these travellers and it continues to be a popular place for travellers to stay to this day.





While the old Sirkeci Gar is no longer operational, you can still catch glimpses of its former glory, old trains, and even dine in the Orient Express Cafe. Today, the area remains a major transportation hub for residents of Istanbul. The neighbourhood is also home to many historic sites – one of them being the Turkish Republic’s first bank, founded by Kemal Ataturk; the impressive Işbank building now exhibits oil paintings owned by previous bank directors, as well as objects and machines linked to stories of the new, post-Ottoman, economy. Of particular interest are the old, ledger books, original typewriters and calculators. Another exciting feature is walking into the vaults and safety deposit rooms. Leaving the 18th century building onto a slightly newer one, to visit the very elegant Post Office museum, completed in 1909 by Vedat Tek in First Turkish National architectural style. The architectural movement was pioneered by Tek and brought back classical Ottoman elements from the 16th

century such as two-colour stone workmanship and Islamic geometric patterns incorporating them into modern buildings. It’s powerful art nouveau staircase and high-ceilinged offices form a wonderful backdrop to the old photographs and curious machines, bathed in streams of light. Continuing down the street, you may notice the tomb of several Ottoman Princes, a small and interesting shrine which could easily be missed as you pass by. If you are getting hungry, be sure to stop for a hot Turkish coffee or tea and a sweet at a traditional pudding shop before continuing up to the beautiful Gülhane (Rose House) Park. Sitting on the grounds of Topkapı Palace, it is the oldest and one of the most expansive parks in Istanbul. As you walk through, you will see the Goths’ column (Gotlar Sütunu) which dates from Roman times and commemorates a Roman victory over the Goths. On the outer walls of the park is the Alay Kosku, now the Tanpınar Museum, dedicated to Turkish literature and playing host to frequent poetry readings and other literary events. The 16th



century building, used as a library, has a round room covered with frescos and a lovely view through its tall windows into the Park below. Time permitting, you can stop by the The Museum of The History of Science and Technology in Islam is located in the former stables of Topkapı Palace, on the western edge of the park. The museum features 140 replicas of inventions of the 8th to 16th centuries, from astronomy, geography, chemistry, surveying, optics, medicine, architecture, physics and warfare. And of course, don’t forget to stop and smell the roses! IWI partner Monica Fritz leads photography walks exploring Sirkeci and other less-known neighborhoods of Istanbul. Originally from New York, Monica is a professional photographer who has been exploring Istanbul’s back streets, rooftops, passageways and much more for over 20 years. Monica’s walks are unique and fun.

OPENING SPREAD Rustem Pasa Cami, Iznik tiles Is Bank Museum 2nd SPREAD Is Bank Museum, antique business machines Vlora Han, Art Nouveau facade Vlora Han, spiral staircase 3rd SPREAD Is Bank Museum, digital corridor Is Bank Museum, sleeping cat FINAL SPREAD Is Bank Museum, teller window Sirkeci street scene






I D D E N O N A Q U I E T STRE E T in the colourful

Tom-Tom area of Beyoğlu is the charming restaurant Jash Istanbul. The first thing that grabs you is the warmth of the welcome you receive from Mari, the owner of this delightful Armenian-inspired restaurant. In many ways I felt like I was an old friend of hers who has come over to her house for dinner. The antique decorations, family photographs and clever, almost whimsical artwork definitely gives you that feel-good homey vibe. Mari takes her time to provide recommendations from the menu, asks our thoughts about the selections and cheerfully goes from table to table making sure everyone feels at home. The accordion player makes his rounds a little later in the evening, amplifying the cozy ambience. Jash, which means ‘food’ in Armenian, offers a wide variety delicious salads, starters and entrees. Choosing from all the great dishes is the hard part. For starters, we opted for the paçanga böreğı (pastry roll with pastırma, tomatoes and cheese); topik (chickpea and potato purée with onions, tahini and currants); and lakerda (pickled bonito fish). Then came the cığer tava (sautéed lamb liver) and beyin salatası (yes, you are reading that correctly…brain salad). We finished with the uskumru dolma (stuffed mackerel); which is a well-known Armenian speciality. We accompanied our meal with a recent discovered of Beylerbeyi Raki; and knew it would be perfect with our meal.

Photography Courtesy of JASH ISTANBUL

I highly recommend the topik, cığer tava and uskumru dolma. Topik is a classic Armenian starter; and this version was superb. My favourite of the evening was the uskumru dolma; perfectly cooked with a crispy crust and flavourful stuffing. My husband really enjoyed the beyin salatası and I admit it was good; however, I appreciated the lakerda more. Overall, we had a lovely evening; and we look forward to returning to Jash with our “gang” of friends to enjoy the homestyle Armenian cuisine with a Turkish twist. PROS

The ambiance is incredible. It is a perfect location for a romantic dinner or for a fun evening with close friends and family. CONS

The price point is on the high side; however, the quality of the service, food and atmosphere make it worth it. THINGS TO KNOW

Make a reservation, as this is quite a popular spot. Though the restaurant is popular, taxi drivers don’t necessarily know where it is, so be prepared to give a few helpful directions. Jash İstanbul Pürtelaş Hasan Efendi Mahallesi Cihangir Cd. No:9 34427 Beyoğlu/İstanbul






S TH E N EXT INS TALLATIO N of Printemps des Artistes fast approaches, we caught up with the illustrator of this year’s exhibit poster, the talented Caroline Gaujour.

For expats, a certain level of unpredictability goes with the territory. French illustrator Caroline Gaujour understands this well, having spent the last 13 years in Mexico, the United States and lately Turkey. Her move to Istanbul prompted her foray into a new career in illustration.

“I was not in an artistic field before [I ventured into illustration]. I studied agronomic engineering – food science and distribution. I worked for a vegetable seed company in the United States. When we moved here, I was told that it was almost impossible to find a job if you are following your husband because there was only one work permit, and also, I was a little bit tired of having to quit my job whenever we moved. When I arrived, I became a stay at home mom, which I didn’t mind, but it was not really my thing. I had always loved drawing, but I did not go to an art school. So, I decided I would use my time here to take classes, and started drawing my life here,” Gaujour noted. She launched a blog in 2015, using the medium to write articles about being an expat woman with kids and a life in Istanbul, and accompanied her writing with illustrations that conveyed her feelings in humorous way. After two months, she set a goal to publish a book that included parts of the blog and drawings. She presented the project and launched a crowdfunding campaign to fund it, and in 2016, she published Ma Vie d’Expat Destination Istanbul. “After that, people started contacting me to work with them. I started working as a freelance illustrator, for posters, book covers, websites, and I also create little comic strips to present a product or service for companies. Last summer, I got a contract with the French newspaper Le Figaro and I illustrated a book of French culinary expressions for them which was released last November. Now I am working on the next book!”

While Gaujour’s talents extend to water color and portraits, her trademark is comic illustrations. These describe the universal incongruities in people’s lives, presenting life’s idiosyncrasies with humor and wit. “I like to talk about my life as a mother. Motherhood is considered so sacred and is held in such high regard. It’s supposed to be the most interesting thing about you as a woman, your greatest accomplishment in your life! Your career comes second. Since I have been following my husband, I feel that women sacrifice themselves more easily than men. I just want to point out the aspects of motherhood that are funny, and the things that are not so funny. Sometimes, we are ashamed of talking about our issues as moms, and I like to talk about them and put words to how we feel.” She shares an example of being pregnant for the first time – everything is dreamy and you have these ideals on what you will do. Once you have your second baby, you don’t have a minute to think about yourself, you don’t feel glamorous, and you have no idea how far along you are in your pregnancy. “I like talking about the ups and downs of being a mom, an expatriate, or working. I am sharing things that I believe other people are also going through. I like to share things in a funny way, but with empathy. By doing it in a humorous way, people don’t feel offended and it’s easier to reflect on the truth. People write to me and tell me, “You’ve found the right words,” or “I feel like that!” or “Are you reading my thoughts?” If someone is feeling bad out there or has had a similar problem, I hope they’ll see my work and laugh and feel better. That’s what I am trying to do.” Turn the page to see Caroline’s work. Caroline’s favourite places in Istanbul: “I like Ortaköy. Sometimes I like to take a walk outside, especially in summertime. I like the Minoa café. It’s one of the places I like to work because I like the books and it’s easy to access. I like Sarıyer and any walk along the Bosphorus – like in Arnavutköy. I like the streets.”







he Printemps des Artistes (PDA) is an initiative of Istanbul Accueil, an important French association for the French-speaking community in Istanbul. The PDA is a yearly charitable art exhibition, which takes place every spring: The exhibition has been organized together with Sainte Pulchérie school for the last 12 years. The aim of the event is twofold: to unveil artists residing in Istanbul, and to raise funds in order to support charity initiatives. Over the years, PDA has become a cultural meeting point for the French speaking and international expat community, as well as for Francophiles and artistic Turkish circles. The 12th edition of the Printemps des Artistes will exhibit the works of 12 selected artists. Among them are eight painters, two sculptors and two photographers. The show opens Thursday, 12th April 2018 at 19.00. It will continue through 19th April, every day from 2pm to 7pm. Workshops for children will gake place the weekend of 14th and 15th April. Registration: Wr9UrVIlEefm4XDpjtLW LOCATION Galerie Od’A-Ouvroir d’Art Lycée Sainte Pulchérie Çukurluçesme Sok. 7 Beyoğlu – Istanbul ISTANBUL ACCUEIL Le Printemps Des Artistes (PDA) Email: Wesbsite: Facebook: @LePrintempsDesArtistesIstanbul

with psychiatric disorders. It is still run by the Sisters of Charity and operates exclusively thanks to private donations. Sainte Pulchérie school was also founded by the Sisters of Charity in 1846 and is therefore happy to help its sister institution. DARÜŞŞAFAKA Turkey’s first non-governmental educational organization changes lives by providing quality education to underprivileged students, who have lost (at least) one of their parents. It is guided by the mission of Changing Lives through Education, and since 1863 it has provided a modern education for thousands of students at Darüşşafaka Schools. This association operates exclusively thanks to private donations. THE ARTISTS A range of established and promising artists, both Turkish and foreign, has been selected for the 12th edition of the Printemps des Artistes. Visitors will discover a variety of unique paintings, illustrations, sculptures and photographs. Canan AYDOĞAN - Painter Canan has been an Art Director for the last 20 years. Her intuition and free spirit have led her to work on projects in different fields such as dance, music and movies. Through her exuberant paintings, the multifaceted Canan, seeks to de-pict a more contemporary image of Istanbul and movement in her whirling dervishes.

All exhibited artworks will be for sale; with 30% of the proceeds donated to two charities, the Lape Hospital and Darüşşafaka.

Diana PAGE – Painter Diana is a South African painter and a multi-disciplinary artist. Her art embraces an awareness of shifting urban landscapes and geographies. Her paintings reflect an abstract style, suggesting rather than de-scribing.

LAPE HOSPITAL (Fransız Lape Hastanesi) Lape Hospital has been operating in Istanbul since 1857. The hospital was donated to the Sisters of Saint Vincent in 1902 by Sultan Abdul Hamid II. Its main purpose is to treat patients

Erhan CIHANGIROĞLU - Painter Erhan studied Visual Communication Design and GraphicDesign and worked with Devrim Erbil, one of the most famous contemporary Turkish artists.



OPENING SPREAD Diana Page THIS SPREAD Left, Berna Canok Right top, Kenan Isik Right bottom, Catherine Barbaroux



His colourful illustration work are characterized by a childlike innocence and imagination. Hülya ÖZDEMIR - Painter The women depicted by Hulya are beautiful, solitary and strong at the same time.They are immersed in their surroundings, mostly natural setting. Often they are accompanied by animals. Her colorful portraits will immediately attract your attention. Kenan IŞIK - Painter Kenan is a Fine Arts graduate. He participates in numerous socio-cultural projects, teaching visual and plastic arts. His work depicts Istanbul’s dynamic life, its confusion, but also the beauty behind its concrete jungle. His art is a reflection of his own vision of Istanbul. Rana et Berna CANOK - Sculptors Rana and Berna are twins. They studied fashion design and sculpture at the school of Fine Arts. After creating a clothing brand, they continued their careers as sculptors. Berna, who dreamt of becoming a ballerina, now works in bronze, creating

sculptures that represent figures in different ballet positions. Rana focuses on colourful ceramic figures. Serhan DEVRAN - Analogue Photographer Serhan first became interested in photography in San Francisco, but it was when he returned to Istanbul that he discovered his passion for analog photography. From then on he decided to focus exclusively on film photography and film developing. Today he shares his passion through his vision of the streets of Istanbul. Let his unique images with a little bit of an antiquarian touch seduce you! Véronique MARGANNE POLAT - Illustrator Véronique is a French-Belgian artist. She worked as a fashion designer in Istanbul for 20 years, then devoted herself to teaching fashion illustration and drawing in schools and universities. Her watercolour panoramas show us an alternate vision of Istanbul, depicting the contrast between the old and the modern city. She walks the city with her equipment and paints eclectic landscapes, cafes and streets revisited by taggers.


PRECEDING SPREAD Left, Hulya Ozdemir Right, Mustafa Albayrak THIS SPREAD Left top, Canan Aydogan Left bottom, Veronique Marganne Polat Right, Erhan Cihangiroglu




Yasemin KUZUCU - Photographer Yasemin is a nurse, but some years ago decided to follow her childhood dream of becoming a photographer. This led her to study photography at university. Her work reveals the importance of reflections and symmetries. Catherine BARBAROUX - Painter Catherine is a French-Mexican artist who first studied graphic design before entering the school of Fine Arts. For this exhibition, Catherine has selected a series of very colorful caftans representing the luxurious clothes that were worn during the Ottoman empire. She uses different sorts of fabric on which she paints several layers of colors that intertwine. Mustafa ALBAYRAK - Painter Mustafa attended the University of Fine Arts. His paintings show us the loneliness and the loss of identity prevailing in today’s busy society. He paints people in the crowded streets of Istanbul in a flawed manner, in order to accentuate their individualism. OPPOSITE Yasemin Kuzucu THIS PAGE Left, Rana Canok Right, Serhan Devran


Illustration for official poster for Printemps des Artistes, 12th edition Caroline Gaujour




March 2018


























Craft Materials Tour 5

Coffee and Culture Kandilli



Women’s Walkathon

Inside Galata and Karaköy 12



Asian Side Coffee Morning 19

European Side Coffee Morning



Mimar Sinan Tour

Square Hugs Screening




Easter Cooking Workshop


Easter Egg Hunt

April 2018






Sunday 1


















Coffee and Culture – Hidiv Kasrı 9

Underground Istanbul

Taste of Syria 10 Lunch


Printemps des Artistes Opening Night

Asian Side Coffe Morning



Photo Walk



Thai Food Tasting Workshop 24


European Side Coffe Morning 25


Coffee and Culture Beylerbeyi


programs Discovering Craft Supplies in the Old City THE BAZ AAR D I S TRICTS O F ISTANBUL’S Old City are a treasure trove, not only for handcrafted goods, but for the supplies with which to create them. The myriad hans, courtyard buildings which have over the centuries hosted hundreds of artisan guilds supported by the Ottomans and often directly by the royal ladies of the Harem, to this day house nearly every element needed for any craft. Catherine Salter Bayar uses decades of experience in design, sourcing and manufacturing to guide her guests through the maze of Eminönü backstreets to find the best of supplies on offer, from textiles to gemstones to leather and more. According to the interests of the registrants, our excursion will include: Jewellery-making, Fibre arts (knitting, crochet, felting, embroidery), Block Printing, Leather-making. Come with ideas of what you want to make or find. Catherine can also help connect her guests with workshops by craft, conducted by local artisans and helpful for furthering skills and meeting others who share the same crafting obsessions. We will spend about 4 hours together hunting out the best supplies for the participants, stopping for a simple lunch in a favourite lokanta.

craft artisans, both professional and amateur, with a love of handmade art.

California native Catherine Salter Bayar weaves decades of experience in textile and interior design in the US, Europe and the Far East with insider knowledge gained through 10 years’ residence in Istanbul, and 20+ in Turkey. Concerned that handcrafts are a dying art in Turkey, Catherine founded a Facebook group, Handmade Istanbul, to identify and connect

Friday, 02 March 2018, 10.00 – 14.00

Meet at Çemberlitaş (details to be provided) Cost: 90 TL Basic and Honorary members, 80 TL Classic and Business members, 100 TL Guests Participants: Minimum 2, Maximum: 4 Register online at by Tuesday, 27 February 2018 Contact

Inside Galata and Karakoy: Art and Religion GU ID E D BY MONICA FRITZ, THIS WA LK will be an adventure through the older parts of Galata and Karaköy with a visit to some of its more interesting and hidden places of worship. We will start at the Anglican church with its unusual icons painted by contemporary Scottish artist Mungo McCosh. This unusual and beautiful church has served the Anglican community since 1582. Canon Ian Sherwood has opened the door to all and hosts refugees. A small garden, home to several ducks, is unseen from the busy street above. There is only a small minority of Ashkenazi Jews in Istanbul but their synagogue is grand. We will have a private opportunity to visit this lovely building which is not open to the public. Afterwards, we continue to visit a small but important Russian church hidden away on the top floor of a century-old apartment building in Karaköy’s back streets. This small church is frequented by the Russian community of Istanbul and has been a stopover for pilgrims going to Mt. Athos in the past. Lastly, we have been invited to a stunning 15th century caravansary that has been partly converted into artist and craft studios. An interesting mixture of young and old, traditional and modern art forms. Lunch will be at Ali Ocak grill overlooking the old city and the Golden Horn.

Tuesday, 06 March 2018, 10.00 – 14.00Time

Please note that names, nationalities and passport numbers will be requested upon registration as these must be provided to the synagogue security before our visit.

Register online at by by Saturday, 3 March 2018


Galata Tower meeting point

Cost: 85 TL Basic and Honorary members, 75 TL Classic and Business members, 100 TL Guests Participants: Minimum 10, Maximum: 20


Discovering Architect Sinan and Street Food In this four- to five-hour tour, you will dive into the life of Sinan and explore two of his important works in Istanbul, visiting the magnificent Süleymaniye and Sehzade Mosques. While you are visiting these places, you’ll enjoy explore the backstreets of Süleymaniye neighbourhood. This is a cultural, historical and culinary walking tour of one of Istanbul’s most delicious and historic neighbourhoods. On this tour, you will escape the tourist crowds and taste the best of what the city offers. The experience helps you understand the contemporary life, history and culture of the city. We will make a stop for boza (traditional drink) and a lunch stop at a very traditional beans and rice (fasuliye ve pilav) restaurant. After lunch, we will admire a dramatic view of the city from a rooftop terrace.

ISTANBUL IS ONE OF THE MOST UNIQUE cities in the world, where one can observe diverse daily life in a setting of ancient history and natural beauty. In the history of Istanbul many important people have lived and contributed to the beauty of Istanbul. There is no doubt that one of the most important historical figures in the history of istanbul was Architect Sinan (Mimar Sinan). He was the chief Ottoman architect and civil engineer for three sultans: Suleyman the Magnificent, Selim II, and Murad III. Sinan was in charge of the construction of more than 300 major structures. His apprentices would later design the Sultan Ahmed Mosque in Istanbul, Stari Most in Mostar, and help design the Taj Mahal in the Mughal Empire.

The Program: Şehzade Mosque, Bozdoğan (Valens) Aqueduct, Vefa Boza shop, Suleymaniye Mosque & Complex, lunch in the Suleymaniye neighborhood, terrace and view, street food tastings. Entrance costs, CIP Events informative pamphlets and maps, and a tour guide audio system are included in the price; boza, lunch and tea break are not included. Tuesday, 20 March 2018, 10.00–14.30

Meet at Vezneciler metro station (details to be provided) Cost: 135 TL Basic and Honorary members, 125 TL Classic and Business members, 150 TL Guests Participants: Minimum 12, Maximum: 22 Register online at by by Saturday 17 March 2018 Contact

Easter Cooking Workshop Menu Quinoa-crusted brie cheese on steamed green apple and asparagus, mint pesto Beef wellington, sweet potato puree, smoked tomato coulis Strawberry carrot on Malibu coffee mousse pot 1 glass red or white wine or 2 glasses soft drink, coffee or tea

Tuesday, 27 March 2018, 11.00–14.30 Grand Hyatt Hotel, Şişli

EASTER IS TRADITIONALLY A TIME for families to come together and share a special meal. Chef Murat Dağlıoğlu has been serving as Executive Chef at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Istanbul since 2012. Under his guidance we will learn to prepare some new dishes in this workshop that reflect the season. Using this knowledge we will together prepare our own special lunch before sitting down to share a wonderful meal.

Cost: 160 TL Basic and Honorary members, 150 TL Classic and Business members, 175 TL Guests Participants: Minimum 20, Maximum: 20 Register online at by Saturday, 24 March 2018



programs Thai Food Tasting Workshop THE MARRIOTT ’S THAI CHEF will prepare Marriott’s best recipes and reveal their secret spices for a Chef’s table feast. especially for IWI. At the Chefs Table is an event like no other. Here you will taste alluring dishes prepared just for you and presented by the chef. This exclusive experience for private groups of connoisseurs takes you behind the scenes for a dinner in the heart of a true Thai kitchen, giving you rare insight into the art of innovative Thai cuisine. The menu features up-to-the-minute creations from starters to spiced main courses to desserts. The dishes are a marriage of the highest quality Royal Thai cuisine and western influences, harmoniously combined into a unique Thai taste. Join us as chefs from Thailand share their craft and creativity. THE 5-COURSE CHEFS TABLE MENU Appetisers

Spicy grilled beef salad Asian-style (nam tok nue yang) Deep fried marinated minced chicken spring roll (popia kua kling gai)

Soup Main Course


Spicy marinated chicken in coconut milk and galangal (tom kha gai)

Tuesday, 18 April 2018, 11.00–14.00 Marriott Hotel, Şişli

Green curry with chicken (gaeng kiew wan gai)

Cost: 145 TL Basic and Honorary members, 135 TL Classic and Business members, 160 TL Guests

Stir-fried fish with black pepper and oyster sauce (pla nor mai farang hed hom)

Register online at by Saturday, 15 April 2018

Thai-style roasted custard egg (mor geang khai)

Participants: Minimum 8, Maximum: 15


Coffee and Culture - Hidiv Kasrı for Lale Bayram S P R IN G TIME IN IS TA NBUL IS BEAUTIFUL and our April walk is designed with that in mind. We will explore the lovely Asian-side neighbourhood of Kanlıca, where Ottoman nobility and the wealthy constructed waterfront mansions, and combine this with a visit to Hidiv Kasrı and its tulip gardens – spectacular during the time of the Lale Bayram. Kanlıca, a pretty area with some beautiful and historic wooden mansions, has the Bülbül (Nightingale) Creek running into the Bosphorus at Kanlıca Bay, and a small nature park to the south. Across the Kanlıca Pier lies the İskender Pasha Mosque, built by master architect Mimar Sinan in 1559–60. Kanlica is famous in Istanbul for its yogurt, which we will sample in a local café. We will then stroll up the hill to Hidiv Kasrı, passing attractive old houses, many of them renovated. Hidiv Kasrı is a mini-palace that once belonged to the last ruler of the autonomous vassal states of Egypt and Sudan; seeking good relations with the Ottoman Empire, he visited Istanbul several times, ultimately appointing an Italian architect to build a residence. We’ll enjoy its magnificent view over the upper Bosphorus by climbing up the little tower, and on the upper floor we’ll reflect on the way of life of a Hidiv, a high-ranking official in the Ottoman Empire. Hidiv Kasrı’s park is beautifully landscaped and planted (and a favourite for wedding photos!), and our visit should show us to see the tulip gardens at their best. Inside the palace we can celebrate the Lale Bayram together with tea or lunch.


Thursday, 05 April 2018, 10.30 –13:00 Kanlica (details to be provided)

Cost: 15 TL Basic and Honorary members, 10 TL Classic and Business members, 20 TL Guests Participants: Minimum 5, Maximum: 15 Register online at by Monday, 02 April 2018


Underground Istanbul – What Lies Beneath as we go back and investigate more, and in the course of recent construction projects, new discoveries are being made constantly, and long-lost traces of previous occupants of the city are being uncovered. History is being re-written. This tour will surprise even long-time residents of İstanbul with many unknown and unexpected ruins beneath the city. In the company of Şerif Yenen, from IWI partner CIP Events, we can experience the feeling of discovery and privilege of seeing many artefacts, which millions of people living here ‘above ground’ are unfamiliar with. The program will include visits to several cisterns, palace ruins, some sub-structures, storage rooms and vaulted rooms. We will make a lunch stop (not included in the price) at a restaurant with good local food.

FOL LOW IN G E XCELLENT FEEDBACK from this tour in the fall, we are very pleased to be able to offer this event for those who couldn’t make it last time.

The price of the tour includes entrance fees, a coffee, CIP Events informative pamphlets and maps, and a tour guide audio system. Monday, 09 April 2018, 10.00–15.00

Istanbul, as the capital of three great empires – the Roman, Byzantine and the Ottoman – has a very diverse and rich history. It is one of the most unique cities in the world and we are privileged to live here. There is much to discover.

Sultanahmet, ending Beyazit

Over the centuries, sometimes out of ignorance or lack of appreciation, sometimes in haste or to meet urgent needs, newer buildings have been built over older ones. Today,

Register online at by by Friday, 06 April 2018

Cost: 140 TL Basic and Honorary members, 130 TL Classic and Business members, 150 TL Guests Participants: Minimum 12, Maximum: 22


Coffee and Culture - Beylerbeyi Palace and District reception hall, and the gilded and painted sultan’s apartment are key features of the interior. Outside separate men’s and women’s marble bathing pavilions overlook the Bosphorus. The palace has some interesting stories – France’s Empress Eugenie had her face slapped upon entering, but nevertheless was so impressed by the guestroom window that she had it copied for the Tuileries Palace in Paris. Later, Beylerbeyi Palace held captive Sultan Abdulhamid II, the 34th and last Sultan to exert effective autocratic control over the fracturing state, after he was deposed by the revolutionary Young Turks.

OUR POPULAR SERIES OF MEMBER-LED exploratory tours of our city continues with a visit the Beylerbeyi Palace, followed by a stroll through the district of Beylerbeyi. The Palace was commissioned by Sultan Abdülazziz as his summer residence and place of welcome for foreign royalty and dignitaries – its opulence was designed to impress. Built in 1865 by the brother of the architect of the Dolmabahçe Palace, its name means “Lord of Lords.” We will see beautiful naval frescoes, Ming vases, French Baccarat chandeliers and Hereke carpets. The huge marble cooling pool and fountain in the

Strolling the Beylerbeyi neighbourhood offers views of the various pavilions (or kiosks) in the area and at the seaside. Some of the wealthiest people in Turkey own homes in the neighbourhood, including several members of the Sabancı family. We can visit the waterside Beylerbeyi Mosque (1778). The little main square has options for taking coffee as well as for browsing boutiques. Tour price includes the entrance fee to the Palace, which comes with a guided tour. Thursday, 24 April 2018, 10:30 Beylerbeyi

Cost: 10 TL Basic, Honorary, Classic and Business members, 150 TL Guests; PLUS 30TL Palace entry fee Participants: Minimum 8, Maximum 15 Register online at by Monday, 21 April 2018



programs Documentary Screening: Square Hugs COME AN D WAT CH A N INS PIRING documentary video over tea, coffee, and light refreshments, while learning about a grassroots charity with considerable social impact. Square Hugs is the amazing story of Dianne Jones, a British expat living in Kuşadası, who started a nonprofit charity called “Lily” – Love In the Language of Yarn. The organization supports destitute Syrian refugees. Lily’s primary objective is to provide blankets for Syrian refugee children in camps in Turkey. ‘Lily’ also gives winter warmers to orphanages throughout Turkey, and when possible helps to re-home Syrian families, taking them off the streets and out of squats and camps. ‘Lily’ is supported by businesses and individuals in Turkey and abroad. Support includes donation of funds, as well as yarn, knitting and crocheting, and transport of completed blankets. ‘Lily’ has no paid employees. All the good work is done on a strictly volunteer basis. Square Hugs was filmed, photographed, and produced by IWI members Linda Caldwell and Katherine Baker to help support ‘Lily’. At this screening Linda and Katherine will introduce the documentary and conduct a question-and-answer session after the video. For more information on “Lily” – Love In the Language of Yarn visit their facebook page @LilyLoveInTheLanguageOfYarn.

Tuesday, 22 March 2018, 10.30–12.30 Beyoğlu / Şişhane

Cost: 20 TL Basic and Honorary members, 20 TL Classic and Business members, 20 TL Guests Participants: Maximum 25

Register online at by Monday, 19 March 2018


Night Photography Tour S TA RTIN G IN E MINO NU BEHIND THE Spice Bazaar, we will slowly take in the atmosphere of the marketplace, its back streets and caravansaries. We’ll make a short visit to one of the oldest Hans, once a point of distribution of Egyptian honey. We’ll venture into the lively “Kücük pazar” with its unusual admixture of shops selling candy, weights and scales, spices and colognes. Here interesting architecture abounds. Later we will see the ancient aqueduct and explore a residential area with a different atmosphere, where men sit under the old aqueduct and families gather in outdoor Kurdish restaurants. We’ll witness a very local nightlife in the street called Kadınlar Bazaar or Siirt Bazaar. The Fatih mosque is usually closed at night but the complex around it and the building itself is impressive. Neraby the cemetery and the square offer a central meeting place for members of the Syrian community that have made their homes nearby and there is lots to observe and take in. Interesting faces and opportunities to capture arresting compositions offer a rich environment for those interested in photographing people. This walk will conclude with a wonderful dinner in a Syrian restaurant nearby in a street that has become Istanbul’s “Little Syria”. There will be lots of good photographic opportunities. The streets are well lit. There is no need for tripods but they are also welcome.

Thursday, 17 April 2018, time TBA depending on the sunset

Meeting point Eminönü, Spice Market main door facing the water

Cost: 85 TL Basic and Honorary members, 75 TL Classic and Business members, 95 TL Guests Participants: Minimum 6, Maximum: 13 Register online at Monday, 14 April 2018



Taste of Syria Lunch and treats. And if weather and time permits, we will take a walk along the walls of the old city. At this event, you will also have an opportunity to see products created by Small Projects Istanbul’s women’s craft collective, including earrings, tote bags, shirts and scarves. Their Women’s Skills Development Program transfers personal and professional skills through training. The beautifully designed, eco-conscious lifestyle brands Muhra and Drop Earrings Not Bombs are run by 80+ women and now sold around the world. IWI’s support has helped the collective reach this stage. Small Projects Istanbul supports migrants from conflict regions in the Middle East and North Africa, operating over 20 volunteer-run programs per week for more than 200 families. The center facilitates community-building, skills development, livelihood support, and integration into Turkish society. EX PE RIE N C E A SCRUMPTIO US LUNCH O F authentic Syrian dishes lovingly prepared by the Syrian women at Small Projects Istanbul, one of IWI’s 2017 Social Responsibility Fund grant recipients. We will meet centrally in Beyoğlu and ride the tram together to Çapa where we will take a short walk through the local streets on a bustling local bazaar day, to the Small Projects Istanbul community center nestled near the historic Walls of Constantinople. For a few hours we will enjoy a tour of the 5-story community center, browse their beautiful selection of products, see the workshop in action, and sit down to eat delicious Syrian dishes like mandi, kebseh, makloubeh and mutabbal. You can take part in a dialogue as you sample authentic, traditional home cooking from different parts of Syria, followed by delicate tea

In 2017, IWI supported the expansion of Small Projects Istanbul’s women’s craft collective project, enabling more women to participate in the social enterprise. The collective provides skills training to enable participants to earn income to support their families, as well as opportunities to take on leadership roles in the enterprise. *The menu is vegetarian friendly! Tuesday, 10 April 2018, 10.00–14.00

Meet in Beyoğlu to go together by tram to Çapa, Fatih Cost: 80 TL all

Participants: Minimum 10, Maximum: 20 Register online at by by Saturday, 03 April 2018 Contact

JOIN THE IWI BOOK CLUB If you are interested in good reading and are available during the day, consider joining our IWI book club. We meet one morning (usually the third Tuesday) each month to discuss that month’s pick. We welcome new members to spark our discussions and widen our perspectives. One of the great joys of belonging to the club is being introduced to books that one would not otherwise be acquainted with or read. Recommendations are encouraged from every member. The 2018 list includes fiction and non-fiction, current works and older ones, authors and subjects of various nationalities – hopefully much that will appeal to all. Anyone interested in joining the club should get in touch with Mary Akgüner at


In the Midst of Winter Isabel Allende A Gentleman in Moscow Amor Towles


social responsibility


MEMBER FEEDBACK IS CRITICAL to our success as an organization. Social Responsibility Coordinator Wendy Chan shares results of a recent survey of how members want to prioritize fundraising initiatives and build awareness. “ F R O M W O M E N F O R W O M E N ” is IWI’s mantra. And while IWI’s main purpose is to facilitate friendship and social connections, at the core of IWI’s culture also lies a deep responsibility to engage with the local community and help improve the quality of life for those less fortunate in Turkey. Key elements of IWI’s social responsibility involvement are grant funding for carefully selected local non-governmental organisations (NGOs), as well as raising awareness of important social issues, shining a light on inspirational nonprofit work, and promoting volunteerism.

responsibility are understood and reflected. For this reason, a survey was emailed to all active members in November 2017 to solicit feedback in three main areas: Awareness of IWI’s involvement in activities with social impact Focus of the target audience and major priority areas for grant making Interest in volunteering with IWI in areas related to social responsibility The results of the survey confirmed that the main focus areas of IWI support are still in keeping with member interests. Nonetheless, there is also opportunity to fine-tune the priorities to directly reflect those of highest importance based on this survey.

IWI social responsibility support is built on the generosity of members and local Istanbullus who help raise funds for IWI’s Social Responsibility Fund through membership fees and the net proceeds of large-scale events like the annual Winter Festival.

1. Awareness Respondents clearly indicated that they are aware of IWI’s involvement in endeavors with social impact. Although IWI’s emphasis on social responsibility is not a driving reason for membership with IWI, it is seen as a positive aspect of being a part of the organization.

This Social Responsibility Fund provides small grants to projects and causes that are important to members. In 2017 for example, some of the grants went to help marginalized populations integrate into the local community through education and small-scale enterprise. Another grant helped economically disadvantaged women obtain breast health information and cancer screenings. And with IWI’s help, more young university women from poor families will be part of a leadership program that develops self-confidence, builds career skills, and expands their future opportunities.

2. Target Audience and Priority Areas For several years, IWI’s grant-making focused on women and children only. This survey revealed a majority of respondents (60%) still feel that the target audience for IWI’s social responsibility support should be women and children, but a significant proportion (40%) also thinks support should be directed to all economically disadvantaged people, including men. This presents an opportunity to engage a wider target audience in assessing projects, while still emphasizing women in upcoming grant-making rounds.

SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY SURVEY RESULTS It is very important to IWI that member interests in social

In general, the feedback indicated that the top five priorities for IWI’s funding have shifted somewhat from the areas IWI


has focused over the past few years. The following table compares the five most important priorities indicated by survey respondents, alongside the areas used from 2015 to 2017 that were based on member feedback obtained in 2014. top 5 priority areas from current survey

Education Women’s Leadership Domestic Violence Women’s Economic Development Childhood Development

priority areas from 2015-2017

Women’s Rights Migrants and Refugees Childhood Development & Motherhood Gender Equality Migrants and Refugees 3. Volunteering The remaining questions of the survey focused on asking members about their interest in volunteering to help shape IWI’s social responsibility activities and supporting grant recipients. Members interested in either area provided their contact information and received information about ways to get involved.

Moving Forward Overall the survey confirmed that IWI’s social responsibility ethos is a good reflection of member wishes. Moving forward, the survey results will be used to broaden the target audience of IWI social responsibility project funding to include all disadvantaged people in Turkey. And the top five priority areas identified in the survey will be updated for the grant-making cycle for 2018-2019. For survey questions and results, go to IWI is a proud community of global women committed to supporting endeavors with positive social impact in Turkey. Members are encouraged to help spread the word about IWI’s annual Call for Proposals for grant applications in April 2018. The full details, and application form, will be available at the end of March 2018. The deadline for application submission will be Friday, 27 April 2018. In the meantime, if you would like to learn more IWI’s social responsibility initiatives, including information about grant recipients and the grant process, see the Social Responsibility section of the IWI website at Members are always welcome to participate in IWI social responsibility activities. For more information please email Wendy Chan, the Social Responsibility Coordinator, at charity@


business networking

Feature MONISHA KAR Photography courtesy of BARBERA HOTEL

WHAT IS IT LIKE TO OPEN a hotel in the heart of old Istanbul? Business Member Jenna Hughes-Anlar shares her experience taking a former automotive parts business and transforming it into a beautiful boutique hotel. Spring means better weather, school vacations, and more visitors to Istanbul. After sustaining a considerable hit to tourism, early indicators are that the city will start to see more people returning to enjoy Turkish hospitality. IWI business member Jenna Hughes-Anlar is among those who cater to tourists wanting a high-quality experience of Istanbul marked by supreme comfort and distinctive style. She originally came to Turkey in 2010 for work and never expected to live here. But she now knows the city so well that she has developed an enviable talent that would put any taxi driver in the city to shame: “I can drive anywhere in the city – I know every shortcut, and even my Turkish husband jokes, ‘Jenna knows the roads better than I do!’” Hughes-Anlar grew up in Vail, Colorado in the United States. Vail is a town famous for its skiing, winter sports, and the numerous summertime festivals that draw tourists, culture-seekers and outdoor enthusiasts to the area. Her parents owned a jewellery shop in town which meant regular interaction with tourists. Her previous career in high fashion had her travelling regularly around the world and staying in many different hotels, so she is no stranger to the hospitality industry. However, deciding to build a hotel from the ground up and run it was an altogether different venture.


The hotel is located in Sirkeci, in what is considered ‘old Istanbul’. Sirkeci, Karaköy and Galata used to be the main business centre of the city. It is where all the dealerships were, including where you could find old car parts, and get your car repaired. In fact, the hotel used to be where her father-in-law would run his automotive business from. “Sirkeci is a really neat area that not too many locals come to. The area is in a transition period – you see really old buildings next to beautiful new architecture, and the old wall, with old stones right next to metro – it is developing every day. Right behind the hotel is the old Orient Express Station – Sirkeci Gar – and you can see old train cars. We are also right behind Gülhane Park. Everything is walking distance, and that is one of the reasons why we love this location.” Whether you are getting your residence permit, or opening and operating a new business in Turkey, it is an exercise in patience, and often defies logic. When they decided to open a hotel on her father-in-law’s property, it had been empty for 10 years. Even though it is in a prime location, new regulations regarding building demolition and renovations were hamstringing property owners from selling or making upgrades. Hughes-Anlar acknowledges that their decision to build there went hand in hand with a lot of challenges and still does. They decided to completely tear the building down and buy buildings on either side of the property. However, many buildings are passed down through generations, owners are not willing to sell them. If they do sell, the prices are completely inflated. To make matter more complicated, you can only zone two buildings together. Even if they wanted to buy a third property,

they wouldn’t be able to combine them. Nevertheless, they began demolition and totally tore down the existing property. In doing so, they lost a floor. Fatih Belediye had put a new rule in place whereby, properties closest to sea could only be 2 floors. Properties one street back could have three floors, and as you moved further away from the seaside, you could have additional floors in your buildings as to maintain the views. Due to these new restrictions, you now see many vacant buildings in the surrounding area. When it came to designing the interior, Hughes-Anlar worked with a known architect to bring her vision of a modern, clean fresh design to life. In total, it took two years from idea to having a fully operational hotel; six months to one year of just putting together ideas, looking at photos and doing research, and another year for the actual construction. Despite having a clear plan about what they wanted, invariably there were differences of opinions which made it very difficult to work with the Turkish architect, the builders, and the technicians. “I would not recommend building a business if you are just one person. You should have someone next to you who you trust, and that person should speak very good Turkish, otherwise you will get ripped off, and pay too much for mistakes or materials.” She and her husband were on-site, every day for the year of the hotel construction. “I learned a lot through the process, and my second hotel will be even better. Don’t expect that you will be able to leave anything alone and that it will be completed the way you imagined. Stay on top of everything!” In the last six months prior to opening for business was when they started to hire and train staff, purchase products and amenities, finish the website, and list the hotel with the major booking sites. “Booking sites are the biggest partners for boutique hotels since boutique hotels don’t tend to sell to groups or work with special travel agencies. From there, you

start to develop a presence and reputation, through word of mouth and online reviews.” One of the biggest struggles in managing the business is recruiting and retaining staff. “It is challenging to find responsible staff who want to work. Everything works differently in Turkey. In the hospitality industry, it is quite common to start your job search a week in advance. If someone puts in their application online, they get hired immediately. So, it is a quick process, and you see that whether you go to the dentist or want to get a haircut — it isn’t really necessary to have appointments in advance. So, compared to other places, they don’t plan ahead as much. Also, the salary doesn’t vary much from one receptionist position to another, so people don’t care if they leave a job because they think they can find another job right away.” Hughes-Anlar added, “Part of a larger systemic problem is that the salaries for workers are too low, but the taxes for businesses are very high. So, as a business owner, you have to watch expenses from month to month.” Like many people who make their living in tourism, HughesAnlar and the Barbera have been affected by the slump in this sector. “We opened in May 2015 – we had a couple of months learning and trying to get things settled. Then the bombs started and that had a quick halt to business. Most of the boutique hotels who had 30,000-50,000 TL/month rents had to close. We were lucky because my father-in-law owned the building and we didn’t have a huge rent to pay. However, we had to cut expenses. I had 15 staff members for 14 rooms, and we went from 1 staff member per room to just 5 people for the whole hotel. You can imagine what a huge impact it had - lots of people lost jobs.” For the last year, she has had a great team in place, and is looking forward to the summer busy season.


“It is just starting to turn around, and while we don’t really know how it will be this summer, we hope it will be back to normal. We are getting a lot of inquiries from Europeans, Chinese, Russians and Australians. Hopefully we’ll also see more Americans coming back.”

tastings. “We collect unique wines from all over the world – it is a big interest of ours. So we chose the name ‘Barbera’ because we wanted to have some type of grape/wine theme at the hotel. And, the name is easy to say regardless of what language our customers speak.”

With many options to choose from in the old city, Barbera stands out in several ways. “I always wanted to run the hotel with a high priority on quality and customer service. One reason a lot of the staff was excited to work with me was they got to learn a different way of doing business – and they got to practice their English! We definitely personalize the experience for each customer, and can really take the time to help each guest with any detail or request they have. I would say we are sophisticated yet relaxed.”

Not just for out-of-town guests, locals are welcome to stop by for breakfast, which is served until noon in their cosy and stylish Tazé Tapas restaurant. It is also a nice place to stop, sit on the patio, and take a coffee or tea break. “While most of our customers are foreign, we do occasionally have Turkish people and other locals visit us for social events, and we are more than happy to host something – whether it’s a book club, or afternoon or evening event with wine and mezze!”

The rooms also offer the highest standard in amenities. In doing her research, she met with a big hotel chain in the area to learn about which companies to work with, how to choose specific products; how to place orders, how to evaluate the right quantities of product to order, and so on. The hotel has a distinctive design style using wood, marble and metal mixed with concrete-like modern surfaces. Instead of the standard minibar refrigerators, the Italian furnishings include retro Smeg mini refrigerators that add a pop of colour to the rooms. The bathrooms have multi-functional rain showers and heated towel racks. They use custom quality mattresses and the bedding is done with luxurious high thread count Turkish cotton linens. Additionally, Hughes-Anlar is keen about marrying design with environmental consciousness and supporting small businesses who create handmade products. For example, you will find organic cotton bathrobes and towels in the room, which you don’t find in other hotels. Another important touch there is no plastic in the rooms – only glass bottles. Another way in which they customize their guest’s experience, is by serving a gourmet a la carte breakfast instead of a buffet. This allows the staff to cater to people’s tastes or preferences. The hotel’s wine tastings are also quite popular. They work Turkish food blogger, Beyaz Yakali Gurme, to host wine


If you happen to be in Gülhane Park while the tulips are blooming this April, be sure to stop by the Barbera Hotel for a visit. Hocapaşa Mah. Nöbethane Cd. Darüssaade Sk. No: 17-19 Sirkeci-Fatih, Istanbul 34110 Turkey Tram stops: Sirkeci or Gülhane Telephone: +90 (212) 526 83 83 Fax: +90 (212) 526 83 84 Email: Website: Facebook: @barberahotel Instagram: barberahotel Jenna’s favourite things: “One of my favourite things to do is to be on the water in the summer. Last year, we got a motor yacht – called the Barberawhen we have free time we like to go to the Princes Islands. You can really get away from the big city, traffic and pollution. It feels like Istanbul from 100 years ago. My favourite restaurant is Kalpazankaya. It is on the back side of Burgazada island and has great local fish and mezze style appetizers. It is a great thing to do on summer nights.”

In Your Words Beykoz Hamam – it is a neighbourhood hamam – and the lady there is outstanding! Olga, Russia

Gülhane Park in the spring is heaven on earth! Sharon, USA

If you love books, visit the Book Exchange, and Little Sister of the Poor’s Kermes, which happens twice a year. You can find books and other items at very low prices. Linda, USA

Use the restroom before you cross the bridge! Sandra, USA

O U R N EW C OLUMN SHA RE S the collective wisdom of the group. In every issue, we will pose a question and get your feedback. Whether you’ve been here forever or are new to the city, what advice do you have about living in Istanbul? Never tip a cab driver. Make sure the meter is on and always know where you need to go, as they never do. Use Google! If you ask for directions, you will get willing help, but the information is unlikely to be right, as the lovely Turkish people, never admit they don’t know the answer! Trudie, Scotland

Go to Hidiv Kasrı, and if you ask the right person, they will take you upstairs to the roof, there is actually a tunnel in a wardrobe that goes from that room down to the Bosphorus (it is cool insider thing to know). Visit Suna’nın Yeri restaurant at the Kandıllı boat dock. It has great fish and meze and it appeared on the Kedi film! Jennifer, Turkey

I like going to the Horhor Pazar in Aksaray– it is 5 floors of antiques, and it is nice to go with someone who speaks Turkish. Then, we wandered into a Uighur restaurant and just had noodles – we didn’t know where we were going, but our organizing principle was to go there and find our way.

Don’t assume that just because the light is green, that you can walk (or drive) – look 360 degrees around you, then proceed! Deanna, USA

I like going to Kumkapı, the Belediye has a photography museum, and walked towards Yenikapı, and there are a couple of streets, full of people from all over the world. Nevette, USA

Pedestrians don’t have the right of way – just because you have a crosswalk doesn’t mean that cars will stop. Be careful – people have been killed!

Find your place to chill. There are nice countryside, cliffs, parks and beaches, make sure you have your escape planned for the day when the hustle and bustle gets to you.

When you are driving, you can’t turn right on a red light Vicky, USA

Get to like çay. It is a social invitation from which all business relationships and friendships stem – turn it down and you will miss out. Fiona, UK

Always carry a mix of smaller denomination bills (e.g. 10, 20 and 50 lira notes) and pay attention to what bills you give to a taxi driver to pay your fare. There are shady drivers who will pretend you gave them the wrong bill. For example, a driver might insist you gave him a 5 lira note instead of 50 liras, and get you to give him more money. Wendy, Canada

For ikat fabric, visit Deregözü in Sultanahmet. For copper items, visit Hakart in Beylikdüzü and go to the floor where they have antiques – they are quite expensive, but you can find unique pieces.

If you are not an animal person, GET OUT OF ISTANBUL! Just kidding, but please STAY ALERT! Istanbul street cats love to sneak out everywhere. For example, in your car, on top of your car, under your car, in your home, on your bed, under your legs, begging to be pet, and even inside the metro stations. So just be careful and take the necessary measures. Furthermore, DON´T YOU EVER try to give food to a street dog. They won´t eat it, and you are just going to waste your last piece of “Köfte” (Turkish famous meat ball, delicious!). Street dogs are very well fed in Istanbul. Natalia, Mexico



absolutely EVERYTHING! ART IS OFTEN PERCEIVED AS AN ACTIVITY that a few partake in, a very few make money from and merely a sprinkling are famous for. So let’s dig a bit deeper. What is art? Art is a culmination of imagination and skill, expressed and implemented, often the result of years of practice, but sometimes spontaneous and naive, sometimes representing the thoughts and desires of the creator and sometimes the patience and expertise. Where can we find it? Art, in its forms can be found everywhere: parks, buildings, films, fashion, food, products, murals, music, rhetoric, prose, dance... ad infinitum. It is a manifestation of self and society everywhere and in everything. While it is seen to be indicative of levels of evolution and wealth it is also a means to speak to and from the spirit and the conscious self. Art is another dimension beyond the world we know. How do we see (or otherwise perceive) it? We are genetically designed to perceive beauty in that which functions well and is healthy. This is often signified in nature by symmetry, order and organisation which we can find in every living organism from a leaf to the human body. (1) We notice and find this in many forms of art whether it be in music, construction, paintings, poetry or in any physical expression such as ballet. Our senses are triggered by stimulus and art manipulates this fact by design (or chance). What good does art do society? Research shows that even without an art education, looking at art involves areas of the brain that process emotion,



prompts contemplation and activates our pleasure and reward systems. (2) It fuels emotional response such as when architecture affects the psychology of the space users who may find themselves enticed to shop, or pass by quickly, or eat, or revere, or feel national fervour and many other responses which are sometimes even the inadvertent result of the application. Different genre and form can soothe and inspire or challenge and provoke. Art is a powerful tool that can incite societal and ethical change yet is tragically underused in terms of invoking a positive society. For instance, art manifest in music and film is often the vehicle for expression of extreme violence to the point that we find multiple shooting and stabbings normal, whereas the sight of nurturing affection or the nude form is a rarity. This portrayal fuels our perverted perception of fundamental human nature, this can be reversed. Transcending the barriers between us and even time, art can divulge a deeper understanding of each other and the past. What good does art do the artist? Science proves that creating art induces mental clarity, enhances problem solving capacity, improves long term memory and psychological health and it prompts the release of dopamine; it actually makes us happy! During my artistic process whether a painting, sketch or a spatial design I become an arm, an eye, a creator, I connect in a way that makes me more than an observer. I seem to open up, absorb and transmit. The sensation is of a totally legal and productive form of high! If an artist can achieve a state of Flow (3), a high level of productivity and happiness can be reached. Time becomes irrelevant and it is as if an inner eye of clarity emerges along with a sense of control and a lack of self-consciousness.


According to research, those that achieve this level of Flow are often found to carry the trait of being persistent and minimally self-centred or neurotic; they are also motivated, curious and are inclined to be highly conscientious. Art: for oneself and the greater good Maslow’s Hierarchy of Human Needs states that our foundation requirements are physiological, shelter and security, (Basic Needs) then comes social aspects such as being loved and belonging, then satisfaction of our self-esteem and at the top is Self-Actualisation (the gratification of our capacity for development and creativity). It was put to me that this should be flipped upside down (4). Indeed, art is an intrinsic part of Flow and Self Actualisation which are seen as end goals; however, without these functioning at our core we lack the vital motivations and characteristics needed to repair the broken perception of our Basic Needs. This, far from altruism is elementary to the healthy survival of the whole and the birth of Nurture Culture. (5) Art is not a luxury of society but an essential key stone! How can we justify allocating time? The many benefits aside, the process of creating art also affects our perception of time, but let’s ponder deeper; what if time itself can be reconceptualised? Beyond simply valuing quality over quantity, maybe a creative, nurturing connectivity can enable us to transcend time and space as we presently know it. (Doesn’t such ponderance tickle your brain?) What about the pain of creating art? Having waxed lyrical about the upsides of art I can’t deny the excruciating, torturous frustrations suffered at times by we perpetrators. A painting or design stuck in quagmire causes the darkest of moods. Obstreperous outbursts and emotional volatility are often constants in the repertoire of us artists. We are not always the best company while in our creative zones. Cooking food that feeds or doing work that earns makes elementary sense, yet most artists struggle to allocate the time that our disciplines require. Art often seems too decadent and too elitist, and those of us who advocate art as an essential part of humanity as well as the main cog in all kinds of progress have to yell (or paint large canvasses!) to be heard. Cross-pollination The arts, design, sciences, philosophy and all forms of creative thinking are intrinsic to each other. Many vocations share a foundation in the artistic process and any contemplation that takes someone outside of an existing box and beyond knowledge parameters to new concepts has its roots in art. If I pick some of the greats in their field at random; Einstein, Darwin, Socrates, Gandhi, Martin Luther King we can see that each is a creative genius in their own right and able to step beyond existing limitations because of freedom within their essence. I can’t verify that these people practiced art per se, but I’m sure that their creativity is a form of art. Why is art not more prevalent? How can it not be despite proven facts such as schools allocating extra time to music and drama induce spectacular improvement in academic achievements? One can only speculate that the present system prefers we keep consuming, remain passive and lack means to excel. It is no coincidence that oppressive regimes eliminate the arts at the outset. It is through art that people expand, express themselves, connect and find ways to break through the boundaries of the present. Art is both instinctive and cognitive; it communicates, heals and is the essence of our collective and individual human experience. So enough said; let’s get on with some!


Easy ways to get art and creativity into your life: Make time and don’t fear creating art: it can be music, poetry, pottery, or collage. Attend local workshops! Instead of just following people on Instagram or Pinterest give yourself 30 minutes to sweep through the projects and ideas you’ve saved then screenshot the one(s) you pick (and unless you can control your urge to peruse more of other people’s endeavours, try deleting the apps!) then enjoy doing some art and crafts of your own. Involve kids. Help them to enjoy and express themselves through art. Keep it sustainable. Upcycle and recycle so art can be good for the environment and affordable. For instance, instead of buying a new plastic mermaid doll we chose to upcycle an old one. We created a tail using tin foil around the legs and some metallic tape. My child has stopped pestering me for a plastic toy castle since we made our own; she experienced all the fun of creating three-dimensional art and was allowed free rein with my acrylic paints. You can make modifications to any of your kids toys to satisfy their temporary phases and interests and though this is not fine art it is certainly a foray in to the realm of creativity. Combine art with whatever makes you happy. I combine nature by both capturing it in my paintings (whether it be the human form, trees, the historic skyline, the sea...) and also, I collect found objects like shells and pebbles and incorporate them into my paintings and my home decoration. Support artists: buy art and crafts. Go to live performances (theatre, concerts etc): Share the experience with the performers and the audience. Listen to music at home: let it inspire you. Pay for films and music illegal downloads are draining creativity from the system. Visit galleries make life extra dimensional. Petition for art to be installed in our common areas such as parks and malls. Good luck with bringing art into your life and making the world a better place in doing so! END NOTES (1) Brian Goodwing, Scientist The “principle of maximum efficiency and least effort” (2) Oshin Vartanian, Neuroscientist This is Your Brain on Art (3) Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi Flow: the Psychology of Optimal Experience. (4) Millard J. Melnyk, Patternist and Provocateur (5) Nurture Culture



COMMONWEALTH by Ann Patchett Review by Lesley Tahtakilic

All happy families are alike, but each unhappy family is unhappy in its own way. Leo Tolstoy, Anna Karenina Replace ‘unhappy’ with ‘dysfunctional’ and you have a word to describe the families in our January book, Commonwealth by. This novel concerns two American families, the Keatings and the Cousins, and the damage that one man causes them. We are introduced to that man, Albert Cousins, in the first line of the book, when he turns up alone and uninvited with a large bottle of gin to a christening party at the Keating house. Albert Cousins is a father who can only cope with his children when they are asleep so on this Sunday he makes an excuse to his wife, escapes and crashes a party he’s only heard about. There he meets and becomes entangled with Beverly Keating, the beautiful mother of the baby being celebrated. The short- and long-term results of this liaison are the subject of the rest of the novel. Though our discussions are normally unstructured, we decided to try a more formal approach for this book using the following points: plot, characterization, setting and theme. Of these, the two areas generating the most discussion were character and theme. The general consensus was that this novel was character-driven and that there were too many of them! As the two families became more and more entangled, many of us found it difficult to process who was married to whom and where the children belonged. Although the characters were well-drawn – ‘no black and white characters’- we learn learned little from them and did not care about them’. Albert and Beverly seemed particularly selfish and irresponsible. Most of us agreed the underlying themes concerned people reaching out to form family relationships despite the damage caused by bad parenting. Finally, we spent time discussing

the book’s title. Why was it called Commonwealth? Was it somehow connected to the fact that part of the setting was the Commonwealth of Virginia? This theory was not conclusive because the book was also set in California. Reactions to this novel were mixed among those taking part in the discussion. Our American members felt a certain sense of nostalgia for life in suburban America with its ‘do-ityourself’ attitude. Those of us who remembered how much we had enjoyed Patchett’s earlier book, Bel Canto, were disappointed with Commonwealth. Ratings ranged from 4.5* down to 2*; the average was 3*. NOT RE ADY TO GIVE UP ON ANN PATCHET T? Ann Patchett is the author of seven novels: The Patron Saint of Liars, Taft, The Magician’s Assistant, Bel Canto, Run, State of Wonder, and Commonwealth. She was the editor of Best American Short Stories in 2006, and has written three books of nonfiction: Truth & Beauty, a memoir of her friendship with the writer Lucy Grealy; What Now? an expansion of her graduation address at Sarah Lawrence College; and This is the Story of a Happy Marriage, a collection of essays examining the theme of commitment. Patchett’s numerous awards and fellowships include England’s Orange Prize, the PEN/Faulkner Award, the Harold D. Vursell Memorial Award of the American Academy of Arts and Letters, a coveted Guggenheim Fellowship, the Chicago Tribune’s Heartland Prize, The Governor’s Award for Excellence in the Arts, the American Bookseller’s Association’s Most Engaging Author Award, and the Women’s National Book Association’s Award. Her books have been both New York Times Notable Books and New York Times bestsellers. Her work has been translated into more than thirty languages.




B E FORE ARRI V I NG IN TURKE Y, if someone mentioned the word ‘tulip’ you likely associated it with ‘Holland.’ While the Dutch hold the world’s mindshare when it comes to this spring-blooming perennial, tulips are indigenous to Turkey. Long before they were introduced to Europe, tulips were cultivated and revered in Turkey and the Ottoman Empire. COME APRIL IN IS TA NBUL the hills will be alive with the sight of tulips. Millions of tulips are planted around the city by the municipality, and people come out in droves to marvel at their vibrant colours, and the artistic installations around the city. The most popular places to enjoy them are in Emirgan Park on the Bosphorus, past the second bridge, in Gülhane Park in the Old City just off the Gülhane tram stop, and in close proximity to Ayasofia and Topkapı Palace. Referred to as lale in Turkish, the word tulip is thought to be derived from the Persian word ‘tulbend’ which means turbaned in a nod to its resemblance. Originally, tulips were found in a band stretching from Southern Europe to Central Asia, and likely brought to Istanbul by the Persians. In their natural state they are adapted to steppes and mountainous areas with temperate climates. There are over 3,000 registered varieties of tulips, divided into 15 groups, based on flower type, size and blooming period. Tulips play an interesting role in Turkish history. The years between 1718-1730 are called the “Tulip Era”, under the reign of Sultan Ahmed III, known as a period of peace, prosperity, and cultural innovation. During this time, tulips became a prevalent motif in the textiles, tiles, ceramics, architecture, art, folklore, and in daily life. They are considered a symbol of abundance


and indulgence. In modern times, they are representative of fame and perfect love. It is widely believed that a Dutch ambassador for Emperor Ferdinand I to Suleiman The Magnificent brought the tulip back to the Netherlands, however, French Botanist Carolus Clusius is credited for the spread of tulip bulbs throughout northwestern Europe. The tulip gained such popularity that it triggered what is considered to be the first economic bubble known as ‘tulip mania’. Tulip bulbs became so expensive that they were treated as a form of currency, and were known to exceed even the price of a house. However, by the winter of 1637, the bubble had popped sending the Dutch economy into a downward spiral and resulted in an economic depression that lasted for several years. Nevertheless, tulips had a lasting impact on the country. It spawned the creation of the ceramic tulipiere which was devised for the display of cut flowers stem by stem, and often depicted in Dutch still-life painting. Today, The Netherlands are the largest producer and exporter of tulips worldwide, growing and exporting nearly three billion bulbs each year. At one point in Holland’s history, tulips were its fourth biggest export, behind cheese, gin and herring. Beyond the aesthetic appeal of the flower, it has been used in cooking. Tulips, similar to many other flowers are edible. During World War II, tulips were often eaten by those who couldn’t afford other foods, due to famine conditions. Prepared properly (typically removing the centre of the bulb), the flowers can be used to replace onions in many recipes and are even used to make wine and to flavour specialty Dutch vodka.



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IWI Members Discount: 25% discount on all treatments Located in Çengelköy - Anatolian Side. All treatments with 25% discount to IWI members. Address: Albay Hüsamettin Ertürk Cad. No: 4 D: 23, Çengelköy-Üsküdar. Mobile: 0536 357 9808. Email:


IWI Member Discount: 15% discount at restaurants, High Tea and spa treatments Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus has several gourmet restaurants, lounges and a Spa. Tel: 0 (212) 315 60 00 Email: RS


IULC offers discounts for IWI members. IULC, in the light of modern developments in foreign language education, by benefiting from the academic branches of our university in teaching foreign languages (English, French, German, Russian, Arabic, Spanish, Greek, Portuguese etc.) especially “Turkish as a Foreign Language”, is in the status of Istanbul University’s opening window to the world. For more İnformation, please see: or call: +90 212 243 67 29.


IWI Member Discount: 20% discount Indulge in a day of relaxation and pampering at our luxury spa. We offer a wide range of massage and beauty treatments, guaranteed to refresh and renew you. IWI members receive 20% discount. Appointment is required, Phone: +90 212 3750100 ext. 3695


IWI Member Discount: 20% discount on full price prenatal yoga and birthing classes, workshops, massages and mother-baby yoga classes Momma Zen & Annezen is a centre which specialises in yoga, massage and aromatherapy for the pregnant woman, baby yoga and baby massage workshops and kid’s yoga. We also offer a doula service and breastfeeding workshops, as well as massage and yoga for non-pregnant women. Momma Zen also teaches HypnoBirthing classes in English and runs workshops on making natural skincare products. For IWI members we are pleased to offer a 20% discount on the full price of prenatal yoga and birth classes, workshops, massages and motherbaby yoga classes. Momma Zen/Annezen, Kordon Yolu Sokak 8/1, Kordon Apt, Kalamiş, Istanbul. Tel: 0216 345 0866. or www.


Shandra Day SPA, Bebek, the Skincare Specialists Our Skincare Specialists are professional and experienced estheticians who will recognize and meet all the needs of your skin. Your skin is unique, so we use the sophisticated cosmetic brand Darphin, with CACI Non-Surgical Face Lift & LED Light Therapy to bring youth and vitality to your skin. IWI members receive special discounts: 15% discount for all treatments; 20% discount for a series of treatments. For the further information and the whole treatment list visit: https://, Contact phone: 05443235081.


IWI Member Discount: 20% discount For Kids and Adults of all skill levels. Located in Istanbul, we specialize in coaching all skill levels. We’ve got you covered. Our classes focus on rapid development while being affordable and fun. We offer 20% discount to IWI members. Mert Ozgenc: Certified tennis trainer, more than 12 years coaching experience. Mobile: 0532 602 3883, Email:


IWI Member Discount: 20% discount on all services Swiss Centerdent Dental Clinic is located in Zorlu Center Shopping Mall, İstanbul and Sihlcity Shopping Mall Zürich, Switzerland. Our experienced team of specialists offers you Swiss excellence and standards in dental health care. Our clinic offers the entire spectrum of dentistry, with the use of state of the art technology. We strive to create a practice climate that is beneficial, soothing and inviting. Our services: Implantology, Orthodontics, Paediatric Dentristry, Prostethics and much more: We offer a 20% discount on all services for all IWI members. Swiss CENTERDENT, Zorlu Center, Teras Evler, T0, Daire 35, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, 0212/ 353 63 83 www.


IWI Member Discount: 25% discount on subscriptions Time Out Istanbul in English is offering a 25% discount on subscriptions for IWI members. Make Time Out your monthly go-to guide for the city. Find out how you may get your free issue by contacting: Omer Karanis, omer@; www.timeoutistanbul. com


Katerina Tenezou is an accredited Clinical Psychologist and certified Psychodynamic and Cognitive- Behavioral Psychotherapist who provides individual, couples’ and group psychotherapy to Englishspeaking expats. Her expertise is in treating mental disorders, addictions and relational problems. IWI members receive a 20% discount on the session fee. For more information, visit: www. drayhankalyoncu. com Office Tel/ WhapsApp: +90 533 340 98 81, GSM: +90 543 836 97 82


Since 1953, Nazaryan Kundura is offering exclusive handmade genuine leather shoes to Women. IWI members benefit from a 20% discount on readymade and made-to-order shoes. Zülfü Yılmaz, Rumeli Cad. Zafer Sk. No: 38/A Nişantaşı/ İstanbul, Tel.: (0212) 241 39 24 Gsm: (0535) 429 87 98


Ahmet ve Bilge Kadıoğlu are following their family’s 130 year old business tradition in selling spices, teas, nuts and fruits as well as herbal cosmetics. IWI members are being offered a 10% discount on the websites www.hayfene. com and for not discounted products. The promo-code is “iwistanbul”. Also, get a 10% discount at their shop in Mısır Çarşısı No 51. For more information:


Lingua Istanbul teaches Turkish at every level, to foreigners living in Turkey. Lingua Istanbul offers 20% discount for all IWI members in private tuition and group classes. For detailed information and contact:, info@, 0 (542) 636 39 89


EKRIA is a timeless, contemporary jewellery brand for men and women. The future is its endless inspiration. It rejects all notion of unnecessary flourishes, finding the ultimate sophistication in subtle design where strength is key. With a minimalist approach, it offers a universal take on luxury accessories, defined through a capability of constantly edging ahead of the curve. Londonbased EKRIA consists of one eternal collection. The Timeless Collection, serving as a central point for the two additional season collections. Each EKRIA piece is 1 micron Gold Plated Sterling Silver, crafted with laser-cut precision. To benefit from a 40£ equivalent voucher on any of your purchases, enter EKRIAFORIWI code on www. to visit us at the showroom in Istanbul; Vali Konagi Cad./ Kodaman Sk. No. 9; Mim Plaza, A Blok, 5th floor, office 83, Nisantasi Phone: +90 212 230 9110


Make Wednesday night jazz night at Summit Bar & Terrace at the Conrad Istanbul Bosphorus. Savour the smooth sounds, trio performances and breathtaking views of the Bosphorus every Wednesday between 8:30pm-11:30pm. IWI Members receive a 15% discount for WednesdayVibes. For further information or a reservation, you may call 90 212 310 2525 or email Conrad_ 63



MEETINGS AND PLAYGROUPS IWI has weekly playgroups organised according to children’s ages. These are usually hosted by our members at their homes, meet-ups at parks or walks along the Bosphorus coast IWI GROUPS These playgroups are free of charge for IWI members. This is an opportunity to meet other parents of infants or toddlers, as well as share the joys and trials of motherhood while creating a support network. Please contact the Mums ‘n Kids Coordinator Lyubov Gürler at if you have any questions or suggestions.

The coordinators will add you to the group’s mailing list to keep you updated about future events. Pregnant and infants (0-12 months) Coordinator: Candice

Toddlers (2+) Coordinator: Merle Asian Side Playgroup (for all ages) Coordinator: Need a Volunteer

Walkers – Younger Toddlers (1-2 years) Coordinator: Tanya

PLAYGROUPS AT SCHOOLS Bosphorus International PreSchool, Emirgan Teacher-organised activity, song and circle time, garden play (weatherpermitting). Coffee, tea, milk and cookies provided. When: Fridays Time: 10am-11:30am Cost: FREE Age group: 0-3 years Please contact Ms Collette LaffanPersembe at or telephone at 0212 277 8444. *Note: please call on Thursdays to reserve. There are only 10 openings every week. Please only ONE known adult per child.

British International School, Zekeriyaköy

Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Yeniköy, Istanbul

Indoor and outdoor play (weatherpermitting), followed by snack and music time. A known adult must stay and supervise the child.

Baby Playgroup for Boys and Girls

Zekeriyaköy (Tuesdays and Fridays) / Etiler (Wednesdays and Fridays) Time: 9am-11am (both campuses) Cost: 10TL per session Age: 0-2.5 years of age Please contact Mrs Amanda Ilhan, Preschool and Primary Deputy Director at or telephone at 0212 202 7027 ext 116

When: Thursdays Time: 9:30am-11:30am Cost: 50TL per session, (no blockbooking required) Age: 0-3 years Where: Ballet Studio, Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Güzelce Ali Paşa Cad. No. 50, Yeniköy, İstanbul Bring: Soft slippers for little feet Please contact Karen Holyoak Çiftçi, Director at director@ or telephone 0212 262 4302

Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Tarabya, Istanbul

Kindermusik at Play to Learn Pre-School

KidsAloud British Culture International Preschool

Mother and Toddler Music and Movement Class. Parents and guardians can come along for fun singing and dancing with their little ones.

On the European side in Akatlar, Nişantaşı and Koç University Rumelifeneri Campus and on the Asian side in Ataşehir, offering different music classes.

Summer School Age 2-6 and playgroup activitiıes Emirgan, Istanbul, www. ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer Song & Circle Time, Daytime Activities (art, dance, drama, sport, outdoor play) An adult to stay and supervise child

When: Tuesdays and Thursdays Time: 9:30-12:00 Cost: 30TL per class or 50TL for two classes per week Age: 6-23 months Where: Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Sumer Korusu, Altuncu Sk, No 5, Tarabya, Istanbul Please contact Maresa Shahnooshi, Teacher and Preschool Coordinator at or by telephone on 0212 299 3906.


My Time Programme: 18-30 months ABC, Music and Me Programme: 2-4 years of age Please contact Ms Ozlem Hun at info@ or telephone at 0212 352 3031 or 0532 237 2272.

Time: 10:30am - 12:00pm Wednesdays Cost: FREE for IWI members Bring: soft slippers Where: Kids Aloud British Culture Preschool, Emirgan Mah. Şirin Sok. No. 32, Emirgan, Istanbul Please contact Mrs Sevgi Doğan or Carroll Ibramihov Tan Telephone: 0532 361 4427 / 212 229 3776, or *Note: please call on Fridays or Mondays to reserve (within the quota) We offer a 50% discount for IWI members for the summer school and 2016 September term. www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer

MUMS ’N KIDS The Mums ’n Kids Team is a volunteer group that organises activities for you and your children to enjoy. Please take responsibility for your own child’s safety. IWI is not liable for any injury or loss incurred

OTHER ACTIVITIES AND PROVIDERS Fotini Café - Arnavutkoy, Beşiktaş

A café with a playroom dedicated to babies and toddlers up to three years old, Fotini Café is located along the Bosphorus coast and offers a comfortable area for you and your child to unwind and have fun at the same time. IWI members enjoy a waiver on the 8TL entrance fee to the playroom. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount. Please contact Lena at or telephone 0533 093 9992. Francalaci Cd. No.26, Arnavutkoy, 34345 Istanbul, Turkey

Gymboree Play and Music

15% discount for IWI members on Play and Learn classes in the Ortaköy branch. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount. Gymboree Play and Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0-5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in 30 countries, making Gymboree the global leader in early childhood development programmes. Designed by experts, the age-appropriate activities help develop the cognitive, physical and social skills of children as they play. The programmes are also recognised for their unique approach to parent involvement, which encourages participation in and understanding of each child’s development. Cost: 1,020TL for 12 classes (after IWI discount applied) Gymboree members can also enjoy complimentary free-play times during the week. For non-Gymboree members, IWI members these cost 30TL per hour. School Skills programme (drop-off) for the 2-3 year olds or 3-4 year olds. 10% discount on full-year School Skills programme for IWI members.

Music and Art classes are also available. Limited offer for IWI members: 12 classes for the price of eight. Birthday parties for 1-7 year olds (20% discount for weekday bookings) Please contact Esra Taşar at or telephone 212 275 8787.

Hotpot Café - Şişli, Istanbul

Merkez Mah. Perihan Sk. Erbil Apt. No 71-73B, Şişli – Istanbul Located centrally in Şişli, with just a short walk from the metro station, Hotpot café offers playgroups (baby/toddler), yoga (prenatal, yoga, adults), dance and drama classes and other fun activities for both kids and mums. There is a 10% discount for IWI members. Please present your IWI membership card to claim. Please contact Melissa at or telephone 0212 343 5353.

Full Circle Healing Doula List

There are doulas on both the European and Asian side. Doulas may be willing to travel to your location. For more detailed information about each doula, and on how a doula can support you, visit


Specialising in pregnancy and childbirth, providing education and counselling services to expecting parents and bringing together experts who believe in a natural approach.

Our House

Our House is located in Cihangir as a center for children and families. The aim of the organisation is to generate curiosity, creativity ad awareness for children at all stages of development.



Have a particular passion or want to learn one? There are IWI social clubs and other associations to get involved with in Istanbul. It is a great way to expand your community, make new friends and find support!

BOOK CLUB For details, contact Mary Akgüner:


Bridge group meets on Fridays at 10:30. All levels welcome! For details, contact Sandra: 0 (532) 483 5319.


Mahjong group meets every Monday at 10:30 - 16:00. No previous experience required! For details, contact Gesa Horna – 537 362 4912 Mimo – 5362732489

RUNNING GROUP Running Group is a monthly membership. Thursdays 19:00 & Sundays 8:00, Caddebostan sahil. Contact Marina Khonina: or 0 (534) 982 83 07



This is an Asian-side meet-up. Bikes can be rented, but bring your own rollerblades. It’s lots of fun. For details, contact Gabriele Sailer:

Tennis Group takes place at Istanbul Tennis Academy (ISTA) in Istinye. All levels are welcome! For details, contact IWI Sports Coordinator, Olga:



Friends of ARIT, was established to support the ARIT (American Research Institute of Turkey) in Turkey; and runs a year-round programme of tours and lectures for members and guests. Membership is open to all interested residents of Istanbul. Contact: 0 (212) 257 81 11.

The photo club, a group of international members of varying skill levels (basic to semi-professional), and share the common desire to capture the world in a photograph and explore Istanbul while doing so. Contact Katherine Baker:



International Women’s Bible Study group meets Tuesdays from 10:00 until 12:30. Contact Vicki Günay: 0 (532) 314 1134.

Union Church of Istanbul is an international, interdenominational church that offers services in English. Contact:




Boy Scouts & Cub Scouts of America are youth programmes for character development and leadership training. All boys holding a foreign passport are welcome. Cub Scouts: boys ages 6-10. Boy Scouts: boy ages 11- 18. Contact Vicki Günay: 0 (532) 314 11 34 or

Girl Scouts is dedicated to helping girls build leadership skills through the development of strong values, social conscience and conviction about their own potential and self-worth. Girls ages five and up are welcome. Contact Kat Bekham: 0 (542) 300 24 92 or

Speech Bubbles Theatre, is a drama group composed of amateur and professional dancers, singers/musicians from the international community; which also runs a part-time school of performing arts for children and adults on Saturday mornings. Contact:


For details, contact Gaye Hiçdönmez: or 0 (532) 700 0693







The Asian Ladies of Istanbul is a nonprofit social group for ladies from East Asia living in Istanbul. Contact Kim Cakirkaya: or 0 (533) 463 69 30

AWI is a social network open to American and Canadian citizens in Istanbul. Contact Monisha Kar or Sia Israfil;


The Belgian Friends of Istanbul gather every month for social (such as drinks, brunch, or dinner) and cultural activities. Contact:


National Continued

CHICAS (Spanish Women of Istanbul) CIRCOLO ROMA (Comunità italiana) DIE BRÜCKE Die Brücke, a platform for the German-speaking community, organises social activities and provides information on education and immigration.

CHICAS unite Latin Americans, Spaniards and others Spanish speakers to socialise and help from each other in a friendly environment. Contact:

The Italian Association organises social activities, Italian/Turkish conversation classes, and much more. Visit our website for more information: www.

DNSI (Dutch School of Istanbul)


DNSI provides Dutch language and cultural lessons to students (3-16 years old); and a one-week Dutch summer school. Visit our website for more information:

Friends of India Association (FOIA) connects Indians in Istanbul through various social events. Contact foia.

NVI (Dutch Community of Istanbul)

SWEA (Swedish Women Edu.. Assoc.) LUSO BRASILEIRO

Dutch Club Istanbul keeps typical Dutch festivities alive and organises activities for Dutch-speaking community. Contact Lisette Ruygrok: i

SWEA, a world-wide network for Swedish-speaking women, organises events and activities; and welcomes everyone who speaks Swedish. Contact:

Istanbul Accueil provides the French speaking community in Istanbul information on events and activities. Contact: or Website:

Portuguese speaking group. Isabel Ponte Gulpan: 0 (532) 274 16 53

SOUTH AFRICANS IN ISTANBUL For information please contact:


INTERNATIONS InterNations is where globally minded people have the opportunity to network and exchange valuable tips and topics regarding expatriate subjects. For information visit our website:

PAWI (Profn’l American Women of Ist.) PAWI is a network of American and Canadian women living in Istanbul that strives to empower and support members by promoting personal and professional growth. Contact:

TOASTMASTERS INT’L ISTANBUL The English-speaking Istanbul Toastmasters Club helps members improve their communication and leadership skills in a supportive environment. Contact:




Rugby Club in Istanbul has coaching for children and teenagers. Turkish, English, French and Spanish are spoken.

Players of all ages (17+) and all levels of fitness are welcome. We practise Saturday 16:00-18:00, except on game days.

An Expat Football Community of amateurs who enjoy playing and learning football. Ages, skills and experience welcome. Facebook: @iTeamFootball


ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS & AL-ANON For more information and a full listing of all English-speaking AA meetings in Turkey with local contacts can be found on the AA Europe website:

C@RMA C@rma is a social initiative promoting dialogue between professionals and NGOs. We have volunteer opportunities that require various skill set on our platform,, and also organise events where NGOs present their projects and brainstorm with other professionals. For more information, contact

FRANSIZ FAKIRHANESI LITTLE SISTERS OF THE POOR Contact Mother Mary:. psdptr@gmail. com or 0 (212) 296 46 08 SUPPORT GROUP FOR PARENTS OF CHILDREN WITH SPECIAL NEEDS Looking for the support of other parents of children with special needs; and additional resources for your child? Contact Carol Crous: 0 (533) 730 71 48


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Your Neighbourhood Community Meetup (NCM) administrator organizes meet-ups and activities in your area. This is a great opportunity to connect with other women and discover what IWI has to offer. Unsure what area you are in and who to contact? Ask us at

MACENTA (Beşıktaş, Levent)

PEMBE (Bebek)

SARI (Sarıyer)

BEYAZ (Ortaköy)


MOR (Nişantaşı, Beyoğlu) Vacancy,

TURKUAZ (İstinye)

MAVİ (Göktürk)

YEŞİL (Yesilköy, Bakirköy)

TURUNCU (Çengelköy)


KIRMIZI (Kadıköy, Üsküdar)

New To Istanbul? Every month we hold Newcomer Coffee Mornings where you can learn more about IWI and Istanbul. Contact us to find out more. EUROPEAN SIDE 68


MEF International Schools Istanbul Campus Ulus Mah. Öztopuz Cad. Leylak Sok. 34340 Ulus Beşiktaş, İstanbul, Türkiye T. +90 212 362 26 33 F. +90 212 257 82 25

Lale March April 2018  
Lale March April 2018