Lale july august 2017

Page 1



LIGHTS,CAMERA, ACTION! Cinema in the city

Pearl of the Mediterranean


Getting your Turkish Driving Licence

Explore the port city of Mersin

Celebrating Nature’s Bounty Learn How to Make Aşure




4 SOCIETY Good Friday, Bread Making Class, Make-Up at Beyman, Zumba, Wine Tasting, Places of Worship, Summer Lunch 16 BUSINESS NETWORKING Communicating in the Workplace

18 SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Grantmaking Process 22 LEGAL Getting Your Driving Licence 23 TRIVIA Lost in Translation




22 INTERVIEW Pegah Moshfeghi shares her talent and culture through gorgeous jewellery designs 24 HANDMADE Hanneke Potters takes a new spin on classic Iznik technique 34 CULTURE A journey to Aya Yorgi 36 LIFE Catharine Bayer discusses the intersection of culture and craft

38 CITY A walkabout with Hiking Istanbul 52 REGION Eski Doğanbey with International Women’s

Association of Izmir


32 CINEMA Review of 3 Generations and Cinemas around the city

41 BOOKS Year in review and Museum of Innocence 42 TRAVEL Photo Club Istanbul captures Mersin 45 GOURMET Making Aşure 46 MUSIC Find your beat at the Istanbul Jazz Festival 48 ART New exhibits at the Pera Museum and a visit to Sadberk Hanım Museum

58 MUMS ‘N KIDS An Interview with Kids Friendly

40 48

LALE BOARD INFORMATION IWI Office Hours: First Wednesday of the month, 10:30am to 1:00pm. Answering service available every working day Adres/ Address: Esentepe Mahallesi, Büyükdere Caddesi, Ecza Sokak. Pol Center No: 4/1, Levent, Istanbul – TURKEY Telephone: 0212 705 6215 Dergi Adı / Magazine Name: Lale, Monthly Programme of the International Women of İstanbul Yayını Yapan / Publisher: IWI International Women of İstanbul, Dernek Kod: 34-64/027 İrtibat Adresi / Address: Esentepe Mahallesi, Büyükdere Caddesi, Ecza Sokak. Pol Center No: 4/1, Levent, Istanbul – TURKEY İmtiyaz Sahibi / Licensee: Yasemin Kunze Adres/ Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Sorumlu Yazı İşleri Müdürü / Responsible Editor: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Yayın Türü / Issue Type: Yerel Süreli Tasarım / Design: Marlet Corporate Publications +90 216 386 32 16 Matbaa / Printer: Marlet Print Solutions Fener Kalamış Caddesi: No:30 Kalamış / İstanbul +90 216 386 32 16 Basım Tarihi: 24.06.2017 Sayı: 88 Official Facebook page: Instagram account @iwistanbul Cover picture by: Merike Estna


Anna Ilhan

Vice Chairwoman



Leen Saket


Jeanette von AlvenslebenNiethammer

Membership Coordinator

Elena Sklyarskaya

Lale Editor

Monisha Kar

Advertising Coordinator

Leyla Stang

Sponsorship Coordinator

Gülşen Şahin

Neighbourhood Community Coordinator

Maria Eroğlu

Newcomers Coordinator (European side)

Ayşe Yücel

newcomerseurope@iwi-tr. org

Newcomers Coordinator (Asian side)

Gabriele Sailer

Events Coordinator


Social Responsibility Coordinator

Wendy Chan

Programmes Coordinator

Fiona Slay

Marketing Coordinator

Nadine Opitz

Communications Coordinator Sibele Valsani

Business Networking Coordinator

Halima Hodzic

Schools Liaison Coordinator

Maria Eroğlu

Volunteers Coordinator

Anna Mozejko

Mums N’ Kids Coordinator

Lyubov Gürler

Venue Coordinator

Merle Klehn

Advertising Administrator


Newsletter Administrator

Suzy Kaluti


Website Administrator

Marketing Team

Social Media Administrator

Marketing Team

Lale Deputy Editor

Ruth Terry

Programmes Team Members

Olga Dundar, Kathleen di Giacomo, Alexis Harvey

Sponsor Support Administrator

Ginatare Nemanyte

Social Responsibility Administrator

Dusty Kara

Business Networking Administrator

Julia Bayram

Further vacant positions can be found on page 56



A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR One of my favourite memories of summertime was getting on my bike and exploring the neighbourhood for what felt like hours on end. I lived in a rural area and the woods were my backyard. I have this nostalgia for walking through the tree cover, shaded by the sun and I was always in search of a running stream, little creatures, or a secret hiding place like what I would read about in books. And speaking of books, I looked forward to trips to the library, and hiding amongst the shelves - being transported to a fantasy world of wizards and knights, or living the life of a young girl from a farming family in the deep southern United States, or reading fashion magazines, imagining my life would be that glamorous when I grew up! As an adult, my summers have taken on a different tenor, so this year, I’m hoping to recreate that laid-back pace of my youth. My primary goal: to have fun. Istanbul is already a happening place, but it really comes alive in the summer months. If you are looking for something to do, you can go to Uniq in Maslak and watch a movie in the park under the stars (page 33); or you can visit various landmarks around the city as they transform to a concert stage for the 24th Jazz Festival (page 46). There are countless art exhibits and galleries to stimulate you creatively and intellectually, and you can read about two of them at the Pera Museum on page 48. If you need to escape the big city and commune with nature, check out the weekly hikes that Hiking Istanbul organises in the outskirts of the city (page 38). And, for a weekend getaway, take a cue from the Photo Club, whose members recently took a trip to the southern port city of Mersin (page 42), or from the International Women of Izmir Association who spent a day in Eski Doğanbey, a lovely village located on the south side of the Dilek Peninsula National Park, near Kuşadaşı, outside of Izmir (page 52). I hope you have a wonderful summer, however you spend it. See you back in the Fall!


A LETTER FROM THE CHAIR As I sat down to compose my bi-monthly Lale letter, my eightyear old niece, Sara, touches my arm and asks, “what are you doing?” I said, “I am writing a letter to the IWI Community. For our magazine called Lale which means tulip in Turkish.” “What is IWI?”, Sara asked. “It is a group of international women living in Istanbul. IWI stands for the International Women of Istanbul.” “Oh. What do they do?” “We help each other, like a network of friends; and we try to help other organisations too.” “So, it is a support community?” I smiled at Sara and laughed, “Yes! That is exactly what it is.” Sara laughed and gives me a hug then runs off as she has lost interest in our conversation (as young girls do).

A support community is exactly what IWI stands for. Supporting our members; supporting our community; and supporting our business partners. To further strengthen this message, we have combined the Schools Coordinator and NCM Coordinator roles into a Community Coordinator position. Maria Eroğlu has graciously taken on this position. She may be reached at We hope these changes will further strengthen our efforts with ‘Support’. As always, we would love to hear from you; so, don’t hesitate to let us know your thoughts. Warmest Regards, Anna ILHAN IWI Chairwoman





Our IWI partner, the local insider and photographer Monica Fritz, organised a very special Good Friday walk with IWI members Istanbul’s old city along the Golden Horn was for many years the center of the Greek community, and still today it remains the home of the spiritual leader of the worldwide Orthodox Church. Each year, the small community celebrates Good Friday by opening its churches’ doors to worshippers and to guests, giving us the opportunity to enter the small, dearly-loved churches on an important festival when they are filled with atmosphere, flowers and ancient icons. Each church in the area is visited in person by Patriarch Barthlomew during Holy Week; he scatters symbolic Laurel leaves and blesses this ancient community remaining here from the days of Constantinople. Monica Fritz, a photographer and 20-year Istanbul resident conducts unique walks at, open to all




BREAD MAKING CLASS Whether you’re new or a long-timer here in Istanbul, you probably love the fact that warm, fresh, wonderful-tasting bread, in endless varieties, can be bought at any time of day throughout our city. Members had the opportunity to go behind the scenes in the Marriott Şişli kitchen to learn more about the skills utilised to make our daily bread. Participants were treated to freshbaked treats, while Ercan, the master of flour blending, and his team taught the group specialised skills required to produce bread. They also got hands-on experience making three very different products including: Sour Dough ‘German’ bread, high in fibre, made with half rye and half white flour, and very little yeast; Dinkel Bread – made from spelt, a wheat which has been cultivated since around 5000BC and is now considered to be a health food; and pretzels




FRENCH BAKING CLASS Following the success of our over-booked event in March, we were very pleased to offer a second opportunity with Sylvie, a French free-lance baker, to try out some French baking in the cosy home environment of a professional baker. Sylvie has lived and worked in several countries, supplying restaurants and private clients with the beautiful, traditional French pastries, celebration cakes, speciality breads and salty aperitif bites. You might even have come across her work in some of the well-known restaurants in Istanbul! For the last seven years, she has also been enjoying sharing her talents with others through running baking classes France is famous for its delicious, and stunning, patisserie offerings and Sylvie happily shared her secrets, and her passion, to let us find our way to making some wonderful creations of our own. Guests made: Paris-Brest: French specialty made of vanilla cream and homemade pralines inside a choux pastry; Nutella Brioche: sweet and soft bread perfect for breakfast or tea time; and Cannelés: a French specialty from Bordeaux that is crunchy outside and soft inside with a pinch of brown rum. You can check out Sylvie’s work on Facebook/symphonie.bysylvie’




YVES SAINT LAURENT MAKE-UP SESSION AT BEYMAN We all know that when we look great, we also feel great. Yves Saint Laurent makeup at Beyman Zorlu Center hosted the IWI ladies for a morning of beauty and pampering. Guests were treated to breakfast in the airy Morini restaurant while they received expert tuorial in the art and science of make-up application, learned about the latest products and trends and how best to apply make-up to suit their skin type and face shape. Participants were treated to a makeover afterwards and a discount on any products they purchased that day




MUMS N’ KIDS ZUMBA IWI Mums got an early Mothers’ Day present with a complimentary Saturday morning Zumba session with certified professional Zumba instructor Ajda Canberk. Mums and Kids were invited to get their groove on while learning some fun steps. Later on, the kids got to take a break and watch their moms work up a sweat. If you would like more information on her upcoming classes, you can find Ajda’s profile on Facebook and Instagram: zumbajda


PORCELAIN LAMINATE VENEERS Dr Kerem Adalet from DENTGROUP, the largest chain of dental clinics in Turkey, presents:

With recent advances in modern dentistry, perfecting your smile is now easier than ever. Founding Partner and Esthetic Dentist of DentGroup Ataşehir, Dr. Kerem Adalet answers frequently asked questions about porcelain veneers What are laminate veneers? “Lamina” means leaf in Latin. Porcelain laminate veneers are wafer-thin, custom-made shells of tooth-coloured material designed to cover the front surface of teeth to improve their appearance In which circumstances are porcelain laminate veneers applied? • To teeth with excessive discoloration where bleaching would not be effective • To teeth which are not in a good structural form or shape, • To close the gaps between separated teeth (diastema closure), • To restore cracked or corroded teeth, • To refine old fillings which have lost their colour or shape, • To adjust crowded and uneven teeth (as an alternative to orthodontic treatment), it can be an almost perfect cosmetic alternative Who are candidates for porcelain laminate veneers treatment? Laminate treatment can be applied to almost everybody. Are there circumstances in which porcelain laminate veneer treatment cannot be applied? If there is excessive gingival recession due to jaw defects, nail biting, or pencil biting, etc., then laminate veneers could not be applied. How many sessions does porcelain laminate veneer treatment take? If there is no need for treatment or esthetical operation on your gums, you could have your new smile within a week – in as few as two or three sessions. What does porcelain laminate veneer treatment involve? In your first session, impressions of your teeth are taken, and a design is made on the model. Next, your teeth are trimmed and impressions are taken again. At the following appointment, the porcelain laminate veneers are fitted to your teeth.

Does laminate fall off? No. The adhesive qualities of today’s adhesive technologies are remarkably high. If your dentist performs according to the technical sensitiveness, you can use your porcelain laminate veneers as if they are your natural teeth. How long is its life-span? With proper oral care, porcelain laminate veneers can be used for years. The reason being is that they are produced from porcelain, which has superior qualities compared to other restoration systems. They are more resistant to stains and corrosion. Special emphasis must be put on oral care to increase their life-span. Moreover, you should abstain from biting hard-shelled foods and habits such as nail biting. What are the advantages of porcelain laminate veneers? With minimal intervention, a healthy and natural appearance can be achieved in a very short time. They are produced from durable, discoloration-resistant, and long-lasting materials Using only laminate, it is possible for your teeth to attain the esthetical qualities that you want, without any structural defects. Positive results can be obtained with little to no modification made on the teeth. The layer lifted from the teeth is limited to 0.3 – 0.5 mm. Hence, there will be no need for any teeth to be cut (made smaller). A design can be made based on your natural teeth. In other words, we can show you a prototype of the expected change before we perform any procedure Because its porcelain surface is highly smooth, it decreases the possibility of plaque accumulation and stains due to smoking, coffee, tea and cigarettes, etc. It is also highly resistant to corrosion. Porcelain laminate veneers are one of the most popular and preferred treatment options in cosmetic dentistry. What are the disadvantages of porcelain laminate veneers? Since they have medical and aesthetic superiority over other restoration procedures, it is a little costlier than other options. It is a delicate technique and requires a comparatively good clinic and laboratory performance. Dentists and dental technicians are required to have sufficient technical artistic abilities and knowledge of this specialty. For more information, contact: Ebru Wagenheim - International Sales Specialist +90 542 263 5434 Barbaros Mahallesi Halk Caddesi No. 63: Ataşehir/Istanbul




WINE TASTING AFTERNOON WITH SUVLA It can be tough to find Turkish wines that live up to our favourites back home. So we planned an afternoon to help you discover some Turkish wines and stock up your wine cellar. Our first wine tasting event took place on the beautiful open terrace at the Suvla Bistro-Wine Bar at Kanyon. Guests tasted nine different wines from the Suvla range, a family-owned wine estate in Çanakkale. Though it is a young brand launched only in 2012, Suvla has been awarded 120 medals in several national and international wine contests. Participants enjoyed a talk about the estate, the wine-making process, the story of Suvla and tasting terminology





Istanbul has always been a cosmopolitan and tolerant city. The three main religions — Islam, Judaism and Christianity — and their many sects, have co-existed for hundreds of years, influencing each other slightly, and having great respect each other’s beliefs and traditions. Thanks to our IWI partner Monica Fritz, we were able to see many contrasting places of religion, some that are not normally open for visiting. Starting in the quarter formerly known as Pera, our first visit was to the onion-domed Ashkenazi synagogue built in 1900. The synagogue was opened especially for us to see around this special place, together with a member of the faith, representing the now tiny minority group of Ashkenazi Jews of our city. The group then went on to the attractive Christian (Anglican) Crimean Church, with its contrasting Baroque architecture and modern frescos painted by a Scottish resident artist 15 years ago. The Irish Canon (priest) is well-known in the city and provides shelter to many refugees, as well as lending a home to ducks in the garden. Next, we visited another very different place of worship: a Russian church hidden away in the top floor of an apartment building. The contrasts continued when we looked into a very old and unique “Turkish Orthodox” church with an interesting story. Then, tucked away around the corner, we found the oldest Armenian church in Istanbul Monica Fritz, a photographer and 20-year Istanbul resident conducts unique walks at, open to all




IWI SUMMER LUNCH AT TOPAZ The IWI summer lunch signals the end of another season, and Topaz Restaurant was the scene of IWI’s capstone event for the year. This elegant restaurant, located in Gumuşsuyu, is undoubtedly one of Istanbul’s finest and lived up to its reputation. It has won several awards for its food and its wine, and boasts a wonderful Bosphorus view and ambiance. Guests feasted on a fabulous four-course menu and luxuriated on a warm summer day in each other’s company


BOSPHOROUS DIP AND DINE you make your reservation. At lunchtime, we will share the contributions of the participants, so please bring along a dish of your choice. Tea and water will be provided with the tour. After lunch, we will have the opportunity to take a leisurely swim in the warm waters of a secluded corner of our iconic waterway, or just sunbathe in style on the deck of the boat. There will be a changing area and simple shower facilities available on board.

The IWI has organised some legendary summer boat trips over the last few years, and we’re going to keep the winning formula going this year. When the weather is hot and nothing seems to be going on in the city, join with friends old and new for a private sea-borne excursion to enjoy the Bosphorous at our leisure. We will join our own private hire boat at either Kandili (Asia) or Tarabya (Europe) Iskele in the morning, and sail up towards the Black Sea where you can view the impressive third bridge. Please confirm which point you wish to join at when

On the trip back, we will pass by some of the most famous buildings on the shoreline, providing some fabulous, close-up views of this wonderful city and its iconic architecture. Don’t miss out! This is a fun day out, a chance to let your hair down, top up your suntan, and glide along as we enjoy each other’s company. Date

24 July 2017


10.00am/10.30am-5:00pm, (to be confirmed to participants)


Boarding at Kandili or Tarabya Iskelesi


75 TL


Minimum: 18, Maximum: 30


Online at





COMMUNICATION IN THE WORKPLACE Effective communication is a key component to success not only in our personal lives, but also in the workplace. Executive coach Ayla Akın shares her tips


hen it comes to corporate culture, Ayla Akın has seen it all. A native of Bosnia, she came to Turkey in 1992 after the war in her home country broke out. She began her career in the IT sector — starting as a programmer, moving to project management, then consulting, and she finished her corporate career, spending 15 years in sales. In 2010, she decided to quit her job, and established a consultancy in IT. From there, she moved into leadership coaching and development which is what she does now. “Companies select a certain set of skills they would like to see improved – maybe it is related to time management, delegation, communication improvement, organisation skills, or strategic thinking. Companies hire me to work with their managers – and there could be a variety of things they need my help to solve. Sometimes I am asked to help managers further develop communication skills with their clients. Other times, I help them build their Emotional Intelligence and advise them how to manage their team well”. In Akın’s experience, there are several areas where managers could use guidance. “You see managers upset and shouting at employees, and they can be very harsh. They are not aware of the effect their behaviour has on employees. I think that aspect is an area where they could improve. Even the notion that they should manage their emotions is not wellunderstood”.

There are some common challenges that employees face in the workplace and Akın shared her insights on how to approach these situations. Let’s say you are working on a project where a teammate is not completing their tasks in a timely or thorough manner, which is affecting your ability to complete your work. How do you address this with your colleague? “Generally, it is rare that you would get feedback here – you get it superficially – and any feedback perceived as negative is given rarely or freely. People are afraid to offend you if they say anything slightly negative. In other countries, it might be normal to give feedback to a friend or colleague if you see something that could be valuable to yourself or another person. Even if you ask for feedback when you are making mistakes – people don’t want to offend you. Knowing that, when you work in a business environment, people will not tell you even if you ask them for feedback, and they will never do that in public. So, when we want to give this type of feedback, take care to give it in private”.

“The hierarchal style of management is still present in many companies – it is very common to give orders and expect that everybody is supposed to do whatever you ask them to. On the one hand, people are scared to express themselves, on the other hand, people haven’t learned the techniques to express themselves in a different way”, she added.

“Start the conversation by stating what is important to you. Outline the situation and make your feelings known — you shouldn’t say “you are late with your task, so I cannot finish mine”. Instead, soften your expression and tone and articulate your feelings in a different way. For example, you could say, “I want to talk to you about the deadline on this project, because I might be late, and I am not sure where you are on this task – could you let me know your status?” If you share your feelings, you open up and then can ask what is going on with the other person. However, when you open up the space, you should listen to what the other person has to say”.

In the last five years, companies have been hiring coaches to work with employees. It isn’t very common that individual employees come to coaches directly, but coaching is definitely catching on in the corporate world.

Another pointer is to avoid “you” language which could be perceived as judging the person. Focus on the process – not the person. Instead of telling someone ‘you are always late’, you could say, ‘I am worried that you are overloaded/have


other priorities and that you might not finish on time’. By using language such as ‘I really need your help, or ‘what do you think we can do to improve this situation?’ it provides a safe zone. You are the manager of a team of people and one of your team members is not meeting expectations regarding work quality or time management. How do you address this? “If it isn’t a very serious issue, don’t go to the person directly. You praise someone else for the behaviour when the other person can hear. If someone is late to a meeting, and the manager wants to make them aware that it is an issue, they can praise the people who came on time. When giving feedback for something more critical, again, give it one on one. Praise the person’s positive behaviours and skills. Then mention that you would like to talk about some behaviours that should change. Be very specific about the behaviour and give the example. Generalities do not work. For example, you could say ‘I overheard you talking to this client on the phone yesterday, and you used this language which caused the client to be upset and they called to complain.’ “First state the behaviour in a situation and what the consequence of the behaviour is to the person, the manager and the company. State it in a non-judgmental way. And then ask them what they think about the feedback. Use some mirroring techniques and listen closely. You don’t have to accept the reason they give, but you should listen. Whatever suggestion you give subsequently they will be more open to. Usually, if you listen well enough and ask questions to understand their behaviour, you might find out that you had some assumptions about this person and it can help you better understand the root of the problem and work together to correct the behaviour. More often than not, they will accept the feedback and then propose a solution”. Depending on your management style, you may find that different styles and approaches work with your team. Akın finds that communicating leadership priorities and putting some rules and expectations in writing goes a long way to encouraging positive behaviours. “It might take a lot of time to enforce and follow up, but if I decide time management is important, for me, there is always the rule that no one will be late for a customer meeting. In the past, I have said that ‘I don’t care if this isn’t a concern in Turkey, but this is important.’ You have to decide what is important to you, and once you decide, give immediate feedback. Don’t let too much time pass – just give quick feedback regularly. For performance or serious behaviour issues – set aside 30 minutes to have a conversation, and again, you should address it immediately”. Akın’s advice on giving feedback and communication can be applied universally – whether in the workplace or in personal interactions. “We need to be hyper-aware of our own assumptions and thinking what is ‘normal’ for how business should be conducted or how to communicate with each other. Very often we believe that the way we are used to working or communicating is the universal truth. For example – what does it mean to be on time? If one person is late, it could be that the person is not honouring your time, and you might be offended, because you have a formula in your mind of what this indicates. In Turkey, it is totally OK to be late, and there is nothing attached to that – it is very normal. When we give feedback, we should try to see the situation from the other person’s point of view and understand the context they are coming from”.

You need to address behaviour of your boss or provide upward feedback. What is your approach? “It isn’t very common to give manager feedback. Some companies and clients have done this for mid-management or below, but if people believe that they will be discovered, they can’t be objective. But, it depends on your relationship with your manager. There is this ‘Agabey’ (big brother) culture – it isn’t very healthy, because people are willing to go the extra mile for the job to get extra treatment. However, if the manager manages this way, they won’t be able to use their authority when needed. On the other hand, if this relationship between the manager and employee exists, then employees might feel comfortable giving feedback”. Some level of office gossip is to be expected no matter where you work, how do you handle this? “It is important to participate in water cooler chat – because this is when people are talking about themselves. It is important to have small talk with people during the day – to talk about personal lives, and sometimes you hear more than you want to know. But, if you want people to trust you – you need to be interested in them on some minimum level.” “If I am in a situation where somebody is gossiping, I wouldn’t actively participate. That can be managed — nobody forces you to gossip. Sometimes people come to you to tell you something, but you shouldn’t share that. If you really want to learn anything about anybody, you can always ask them questions that steer the conversation in a different direction — you don’t have to talk about the subject they are discussing”. “What I have learned and experienced in the last seven to eight years, is that communication skills and Emotional Intelligence are important not just when it comes to different cultures, but in our day-to-day interactions inside and outside of the home. Generally, we aren’t good at communicating within the workplace or with our spouses and children. We are not aware how our actions and words affect other people. We are not aware of how different we all are, that we have different priorities and values, so all that affects our communication skills. I think communicating effectively is one of the more important skills in order to have a happy life and successful career. If people want to improve, and learn more about this, I can offer some help”. Ayla Akın runs ArteVis, a professional coaching company. Her focus is leadership/executive coaching as well as life coaching. She lives in Istanbul with her husband and daughter. For more information about her and her company, you can visit her website at or email her at:



HELPING OUR COMMUNITY: IWI 2017-2018 GRANTMAKING PROCESS IWI has a long history of supporting local non-profit organisations within Istanbul and Turkey. Every spring, there is a call for project proposals and a process for selecting grantees for the coming year is completed. Social Responsibility Coordinator Wendy Chan explains


WI connects women from all over the world living in Istanbul through social activities that foster friendships and build support networks. But did you know that IWI also assists non-profit organisations registered in Turkey through an annual grantmaking program? Providing help for causes important to members has always been a priority.

History Through the generosity of its members, IWI has supported an array of causes over the years. The Little Sisters of the Poor order of the Catholic Church in Istanbul was the first recipient of IWI charitable funds and is a long-standing grantee. IWI funds have helped the Sisters in operating their elder care facility Fransız Fakirhanesi in Bomonti where residents are primarily women with extremely limited financial resources and no family nearby. Other causes supported by IWI through its history included relief efforts after the devastating Izmit earthquake in 1999, and more recently IWI’s support for Okmeydanı Hospital contributed to the building of their Children’s Leukaemia Unit and their Breast Cancer Unit. Indeed, IWI’s charitable donations have always prioritised issues affecting women and children in ways that have a direct and lasting impact. Today, IWI’s charitable giving largely happens through an annual grant-making program kicked off every spring with a Call for Proposals to receive applications from local non-profits that work in areas important to IWI members.

Social Responsibility Fund Where do the funds come from? Funding for IWI’s social responsibility grants come from several sources including annual membership dues, fees paid by members to attend activities, as well as profits from large-scale events like the Christmas Festival. Taken together, these proceeds form a Social Responsibility Fund that is used to make grants to non-profits every year. Grants typically average 8.000 TL to 10.000 TL in size. Last year, a total of 70.000TL was awarded to eight grantee projects and in the prior year a total of 75.000 TL was awarded to nine grantees.


LALE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Separately, from time to time IWI also makes charitable contributions outside of the annual grant-making process. For example, all proceeds raised from the March 2017 Women’s Day Walkathon event were donated to Europa Donna Turkey to support breast cancer awareness and prevention efforts.

When the Call for Proposals period ends, a committee of IWI Board members reviews all applications in May. Each application is assessed against IWI’s priorities and criteria, and sometimes meetings are requested to gather more detailed information.

Priority Areas and Eligibility Criteria It is important that grant-making efforts reflect issues that resonate with IWI members. As such, a survey was conducted in the autumn of 2014 to gauge support for IWI’s social responsibility initiatives and identify issues valued by members.

After careful review and discussion, the committee aligns on which projects, and at what funding levels, to propose. These recommendations are then presented to the Board at the June monthly meeting. The Board makes the final decisions on which projects to support.

The survey revealed that members felt a financial contribution would be the most impactful way for IWI to help non-profits, followed closely by helping non-profits recruit volunteers to carry out their work. In terms of what themes to support, issues affecting women and children were highest priority for members, educationrelated causes were second highest, and tied for third were support for organisations dealing with domestic violence and assisting Syrian refugees. Based on the survey results, five areas of priority were defined. These priorities are used to guide the annual grantmaking process: 1. Women and girls’ leadership 2. Women and girls’ economic development 3. Women’s rights (including issues like domestic violence, gender equality, and health) 4. Childhood development and motherhood 5. Syrian / refugee and migrant support In addition to these priorities, IWI also assesses applications against a set of eligibility criteria to ensure that funds have as much impact as possible: • Applications must be from non-profit organisations registered in Turkey • Applications must be for a specific project as IWI does not fund general operating expenses • Organisations must be small in size with annual operating budgets below 350.000TL per year in order to maximise the impact of grants • The proposed project should have a clear multiplier effect such that a large number of people benefit directly and/or the project has a lasting effect and is able to reach many people over time

Once decisions are made, applicants are notified and funds are dispersed to grantees usually by the end of June or beginning of July. Grantees are expected to begin their projects during the summer and complete them by the following spring. Grantee Follow Ups and Final Results IWI strives to build lasting relationships with grantees and also provide support beyond project funding. This means that grantees are often highlighted in Lale magazine to raise awareness of their work. Also, grantee initiatives like fundraising drives are promoted through IWI channels like its website, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and eNewsletter to members. And, grantees are encouraged to participate at key IWI events such as the Christmas Festival. In return, grantees provide IWI members with opportunities to volunteer their time and skills. Members get to know people from a diverse backgrounds and circumstances living in Istanbul, and learn about important issues affecting local communities. Between summer and spring, IWI keeps in close touch with grantees to stay abreast of progress and ensure projects are running smoothly. Regular site visits are made and project updates are obtained. At the end of IWI’s grant cycle in the spring, grantees submit a final report detailing the use of funds and the outcomes from the projects. These results are shared at IWI’s Annual General Meeting in May. And the cycle begins again. And This Year’s Grantees Are…. At the time of this article’s writing, the 2017-2018 grantmaking cycle was underway but not yet complete. Stay tuned for profiles of the new grantees and their projects in the September / October issue of Lale magazine!

Call for Proposals and Review Process In the spring, usually in April, IWI opens its Call for Proposals to accept requests for funding. Applicants have approximately one month to submit completed application forms. All details are made available through the IWI website. IWI communicates the Call for Proposals through a variety of channels including its website, Facebook page, Instagram, Twitter, the biweekly eNewsletter, as well as through email notifications to current and past grant recipients. Also, IWI members are strongly encouraged to recommend organisations that fit the priorities at any time during the year by sending an email to Wendy Chan, IWI’s Social Responsibility Coordinator, at, and also to share the Call for Proposals information with their networks in the spring.



Apparently, our sun protection habits... 10 MOST COMMON SUN PROTECTION MISTAKES


Applying sunscreen on the beach... Choosing a random product... Forgetting the feet and ears...

These habits are just a few of the mistakes we make thinking that we are protecting ourselves from the sun. Although the sun has many positive effects on our lives, many important issues such as sunburn, premature skin aging, skin blemishes and skin cancer are inevitable if we are not properly protected from harmful ultraviolet rays. But what mistakes do we make when trying to protect ourselves from the sun? What are those wrong habits that we think right? Dermatologist Funda Güneri from Acıbadem Kadıköy Hospital highlighted the most common mistakes we make when we protect ourselves from the sun and straightened out them.


1. Applying sunscreen on the beach One of the most common mistakes we make while trying to protect ourselves from the sun is applying sunscreen on the beach. This is because an average of 30 minutes is needed until the cream is absorbed by the skin and its protective properties begin. For this reason, ideally, you should apply the sunscreen 20-30 minutes before going out, if possible, in front of the mirror and before getting dressed. Take care in using enough sunscreen. When using spray products, do not inhale them and choose a cream or lotion for the face and body.



2. Choosing random sunscreens Sunscreens have three different types; physical, chemical and both. Physical sunscreens create a barrier to skin. They are preferred on allergic or sensitive skin, for children and pregnant women when they have to be in the sun for too long. People with acne problems should use water-based sunscreen products as oil-based products can block the pores and cause new pimples. Those who have dry skin should prefer cream forms for their moisture needs at the same time. Those who have skin blemishes can prefer special skin color SPF 50 foundation-style dermo-cosmetic products with intensive concealing effects. Those who spend a long time in the sea and in the pool, those who exercise outdoors and who are tend to sweat should use waterproof sunscreens. This is because these products can keep their protective effects for 40-80 minutes when they are immersed or soaked in water. A sunscreen containing SPF 30 blocks 97 percent of the rays while SPF 50 blocks 98 percent. Therefore, it is not necessary to choose a sunscreen over SPF 50, as it does not extend the protection period.

3 4 5 6 7

3 4 5 6 7

3. Not applying sunscreen at regular intervals One of the most common mistakes is to think that a sunscreen put on in the morning lasts all day long. Sunblocks, however, need to be put on every 2 hours from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm when ultraviolet rays are intense. Also, in the pool or the sea, you should not wait for this time and reapply the sunscreen.

4. Not using a special product around the eyes and lips Contrary to what we think, other parts of our body are affected by ultraviolet rays, such as the lips and eyes. “The lip is not as self-preserving by getting darker as it is in our skin, and if the creams applied are not lip balm with SPF, they quickly become ineffective.” says Dermatologist Funda Güneri and adds “Since the lip area is more vulnerable, sunscreens need to be repeated more frequently compared to the body. The eye area has a very sensitive texture, so this area needs to be protected with special stick-like products. Otherwise, the cream may evaporate and lose its effect, or it may cause skin burning or eye-watering with perspiration, or dryness and sensitivity in the skin and around the eyes.

5. Forgetting feet, armpits, nape and ears

In sun protection, feet, underarms, nape and ears are tend to be neglected. However, these areas also need to be sunscreened. In case of hair loss, a spray-style, transparent sunscreen will be appropriate to apply; these products do not create an uncomfortable cream layer and do not cause the skin to get oily. As skin blemishes and wrinkles give away the age, applying sunscreen on hands occasionally should not be forgotten.“

6. Using the opened sunscreens for many years The sunscreens must be consumed within 3 years if the packages are opened. If you have opened the creams or lotions that you have kept under proper conditions, you should consume them at least the following year. Also, do not leave the products in the car or in the beach bag under the sun as their effects will reduce with heat.

7. Not wearing sunscreen products at home or in the car The ultraviolet waves A of the sun rays pass through windows, curtains and car glasses. For this reason, we are also affected in indoor environments in terms of skin cancer development related to skin aging. Dermatology Specialist Dr. Funda Güneri stated that a product with SPF 15 will be enough indoors and added, “However, the product should have UVA protection as well. Products that have been developed with different technology and that last for as long as 8 hours can be used as we do not get sweaty or get into water at home”.

Even though we are under an umbrella, we are exposed to 34% the rays reflected from the sand at the beach, from the water it the sea and the pool. Even though we do not see the sun in cloudy weather, 80 percent of harmful UV rays pass through the clouds affecting our skin.

9. Stopping using the sunscreen when we get a tan

One of the mistakes that we make in the sun is to stop using the sunscreen when we get a tan… Another important mistake is that people with darker skin do not put on sunscreen. Although skin cancers are less common in darker skin, you should still use protective products and you should not take that risk. This is because tanning or having a dark skin will not prevent sunburn, the effects of rays also chronically wear off the skin and speed up the aging process.

10. Using body sunscreen on your face

The sunscreen products used for the face are developed in a non-irritating form. The oil rate in them does not cause acne. “If you have a skin prone to acne or allergies, you should not use your body products on the face.” says Dermatologist Funda Güneri, “This is because alcohol-containing spray-style protectors dry face skin and can cause eczema or irritation. So if your skin is dry, you should choose cream, and if you have oily skin, you should use lotion and water-based sunscreens.“

Only using sunscreen is not enough BOX INFORMATION

8 9 10

8. Thinking using sunscreen in the shade is not necessary

• The ultraviolet A is having a much more place in skin aging and skin cancer, as it penetrates deeper into the skin and we are constantly exposed to it throughout the year and day. Highlighting that ultraviolet B affects the skin more during summer and especially from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm, Dermatologist Funda Güneri says “SPF ratio in sunscreens shows ultraviolet B protection, so we need to check if there is UVA protection on the cream as well.” • No sunscreen blocks all wave lengths of ultraviolet rays, providing hundred percent protection. So, it is very important for us to take additional precautions such as wearing protective clothing, hats and glasses, and having window protectors on sunny days.




LIFE IN THE FAST LANE: GETTING A DRIVING LICENCE IN TURKEY Before you get behind the wheel, read on to make sure you take the necessary steps to stay in compliance with the law. Ayşe Ergen explains all you need to know whether you are exchanging your non-Turkish licence or applying for a new one Exchanging non-Turkish driving licences: New regulations came into force on the 1 January 2016 regarding the use of non-Turkish driving licences. Those holding non-Turkish driving licences are only able to use their licences for up to six months upon arrival to Turkey. Driving licences from countries which are not members of the Convention on Road Traffic and where a reciprocal agreement regarding recognition and change of driving licences does not exist, cannot be exchanged for a Turkish driving licence. A full list of countries can be found at If you have been in Turkey for more than six months and driving with a non-Turkish licence, then you are breaking the law. If you are caught with a non-Turkish driving licence you will be fined 343TL. If your foreign licence has expired it will be confiscated and sent back to the issuing body. If you are stopped by the police and asked to produce your licence, chances are if you still have your foreign licence they will also ask to see your passport. So where do you stand if you are an occasional driver? Occasional drivers are also required to convert their licences. Rental car companies have said that they will not accept licences which are not valid. They have indicated that if a foreigner has been in Turkey for six months and over, and have failed to complete the conversion process, then they will treat this as an invalid licence. Converting your driving licence: Conversion procedure (Converting a foreign driving licence to a Turkish driving licence) Documents/Steps Required: (ADDITIONAL documents may be required) 1. Foreign driving licence and photocopy 2. Turkish translation legalised by a notary or a Turkish consulate 3. Driving licence form (form to be obtained from the local Chamber of Drivers/Şoförler Odası) 4. Passport and residence permit (or birth certificate) 5. Health report for drivers (eye test) 6. Receipt confirming payment of the driving licence card fee, driving licence valuable paper fee and driving licence service fee (foundation share) to the tax office or an authorised bank 7. Two passport-sized photos (5x6 dimensions white background bio-metric) 8. Blood group card or written declaration of blood group 9. Education certificate (minimum educational requirements 10. Book appointment with the traffic police 11. Pay 572TL to the traffic police and show receipt at appointment


Once you have completed the process of exchanging your foreign driving licence for a Turkish one, the authorities will retain your foreign driving licence and send it back to the issuing authority/country. What happens when you leave Turkey and you want to have your driving licence converted back?: You need to apply to the drivers’ licence issuing authority of your country for a conversion or renewal. The fee will be the same as a renewal. You are unable to keep both your foreign licence and Turkish licence. Applying for a Turkish driving licence from scratch: As of 1 January 2016, Turkey came in line with the Convention on Road & Traffic. This means that the rules are the same as those in Europe. In order to obtain a licence, you must take both a written and practical test. These tests are regulated by the Ministry for Education and carried out in strict exam conditions. As a foreign learner driver, you will be allowed to take an interpreter into both exams. The learner driver must enrol with a driving school. The driving school will require all documents are completed before they will allow you to join the course. The cost for the course is in the region of 1,500TL. Exam fees are separate from the fee paid to the school and will need to be paid directly to the government using government banks. The fee for the written test is 70TL, and 80TL for the practical exam. The driving school will require the following documents from you when enrolling: 1. Passport and residence permit, (or birth certificate) 2. Health report for drivers (eye test) 3. Two passport sized photos (5x6 dimensions white background bio-metric) 4. Blood group card or written declaration of blood group 5. Education certificate (minimum educational requirements) 6. Once you have passed both tests then you must pay 572TL to the traffic police as an administration fee in order to obtain your licence. You will need to produce receipt of payment at your appointment with the traffic police If you need any further advice and guidance please contact us at


HEARD AROUND THE WORLD Mastering the basics of a new language can be hard enough, but then throw in some slang or proverbs into the mix and ‘you will be as lost as last year’s easter egg’ (you will be confused). See if you can uncover the meanings of some of these international idioms!

BOSNIAN Ispeci pa reci Translation: Bake it, then say it Meaning: Think before you speak ARABIC Transliteration: 3ala 'add liHaafak midd regleik Translation: Stretch your legs as per the size of your blanket Meaning: Don't spend more than you can afford KOREAN 낮말은 새가 듣고 밤말은 쥐가 듣는다. Transliteration:Natmaleun saega deudgo bammaleun juiga deudneunda. Translation: Birds listen to day-words and rats listen to night-words Meaning: The walls have ears/What you say may be overheard JAPANESE Transliteration: Nito wo ou mono wa itto mo ezu Translation: A man who chases two rabbits, doesn’t deserve one Meaning: To be successful, focus on one thing at a time/Don’t be greedy RUSSIAN Transliteration: Proletet' kak fanera nad Parizhem Translation: Fly like a plywood sheet over Paris Meaning: Get nothing FRENCH CANADIAN J'ai des croûtes à manger Translation: I have crusts to eat Meaning: I need to gain more experience

GERMAN Da haben wir den Salat. Translation: Now we have the salad Meaning: Something unpleasant happened/We blew this DANISH To fluer med et smæk Translation: Two flies with one smack Meaning: To kill two birds with one stone HINDI

नाच न जाने आंगन टेढ़ा

Transliteration: Naach na jane angan tedha Translation: Someone who can’t dance claims that the stage is tilted Meaning: Said of a person without skill who blames his failure on other things ROMANIAN Se arunca ca broasca-n beton Translation: Leap like a frog into concrete Meaning: Jumping the gun BRAZILIAN PORTUGUESE Não é a minha praia Translation: It’s not my beach Meaning: It’s not my cup of tea – something I don’t like to do

CHINESE 鸡毛蒜皮 Transliteration: jīmáosuànpí Translation: Sort chicken feathers and garlic skins Meaning: Splitting hairs – To argue about trivial aspects of an issue SPANISH (MEXICO) ¡Ya nos cayó el chahuiztle! Translation: The chahuiztle (parasites/ fungus that infect crops) is upon us! Meaning: Our problems are going from bad to worse, and everything will soon go to hell SPANISH (SPAIN) Se le ve el plumero Translation: Your feather duster is showing Meaning: You are lying TURKISH Ciğermimin köşesi Translation: The corner of my liver Meaning: To describe someone very dear to you GREEK Έφαγα τον κόσμο να σε βρω

ITALIAN Avere le mani in pasta Translation: To have hands in dough Meaning: A metaphor for being well connected socially, to be capable of pulling strings to get things done

Transliteration: Éfaga ton kósmo na se vro Translation: I ate the whole world to find you Meaning: an exaggerated way of saying “I tore this place apart looking for you

BULGARIAN Ne e tsvete za mirisane (nay eh tsve-te za mee-ree-sah-nay) Translation: He is not a flower to sniff Meaning: When someone is not a good person in general or is notorious for his bad habits and qualities, you say that he is not a flower to sniff

DUTCH Haar op der tanden hebben Translation: To have hair on one’s teeth Meaning: To be very strong SWAHILI Pilipili usiyoila yakuwashiani? Translation: How come the pepper you are not eating is too hot for you? Meaning: Mind your own business






It was the visits to the Topkapı Palace and Rustem Paşa Mosque that motivated Dutch native Hanneke Potters to learn the İznik tile technique. With her background as an artist and biologist focusing on botany, flowers play an important role in her designs Combining these influences, she has created a new hybrid that she is sharing with the community


t is a common story amongst expat women: leaving your home country and career and learning to reinvent yourself. Yet, this theme of renewal never gets old. It’s a testament to the resilience and resourcefulness we all have within — to take our talents and to continue to create something of meaning and value. Hanneke Potters has demonstrated this time and again as her travels have taken her from the Netherlands, to the rainforests of Guyana, to Barcelona and now Turkey. “As a child, I was very interested in Biology, and in flowers. My mother and grandfather both used to teach me a lot about the field, and I had a very good Biology teacher in school, so for me, it was a natural process to study Biology. I went to university, got my degrees, and got the opportunity to do field work in a tropical rain forest. It was a fantastic experience. You prepared one year before and had to know all the plants and how to determine them – the old-fashioned way – you collect the flowers. Most botanists don’t want to do this because you have to go all the way through the forest, and it is hard to determine where the beginning and end of the land area is. For me, I saw it as a challenge, so I went there with the university in cooperation with Georgetown, Guyana. Deep down in the rain forest, I did research with my companion. The habitat had already been destroyed by the locals from harvesting lumber. So, we had to go further in and build our own camp – 25km down in the forest. It was an amazing experience. And, when I returned, I had to draw all these flowers and cross-sections, to determine what they were. We found new species and were real pioneers in the field”.


“Afterwards, I taught Biology for a teacher training class in the Netherlands. And, later on, we moved to Spain, and then the financial crisis hit. At first, I tried to find a project at a university, and worked with one for a while and published some articles, but they didn’t want to pay me and it became all volunteer work, and I got fed up. So, I was thinking about what was next for me. I had always worked so hard, and now as an expat woman, I felt stuck. I always liked drawing, so I went to a class in Barcelona, and took art classes – in both drawing and painting. I also learned about the theory of colour, how to use it, and enjoyed it. I really liked flamenco, so before I knew it, I became an artist; I made drawings and I was dancing flamenco. I then returned to the Netherlands and stayed there for one year, taking drawing classes. And then, I moved to Turkey”. “The first thing I did after moving, was look for classes, I found one in Karaköy and there I continued, despite them only speaking Turkish, and me not speaking any Turkish at all. I learned first about the colours and mosques and houses. Then I decided to go back to my roots in Biology to make paintings of some of the flowers and plants I had found during my research in the rain forest. From there, I got interested in the culture – there was a painting I actually saw in Sabancı museum and I painted it with a different background. The background is Eastern, and it is a Western women – which is how I feel in Istanbul — like a woman between East and West. So, this was the inspiration”. “At first, I looked at all the beautiful architecture and motifs and tried to paint them. But people said: ‘you need to do these for tiles, it isn’t meant for canvas’. I didn’t think I could do it, so a mentor helped me to find the supplies, and then I met somebody in a shop who told me about somebody who makes İznik tiles. I then met her and she invited me to her atölye in Üsküdar to learn how to do it. I realised it was very different technique from painting”.

LALE HANDMADE Potters noted that the colour you apply is not what you would use in a painting. You initially use a special oxidant which creates a chemical process, and it is after applying a glaze and firing your tile for a second time where colours come out more intensely. Even individual colours have their own stories and personalities. It took scientists years to discover the particular red used in İznik tiles, and even now, it has to be applied three times to really pop. Blue paint has a tendency to bleed, which is why it is so important to first draw your contours using transfer paper and then paint the outline with black before you start applying colours. History of İznik Ceramics What makes the İznik Ceramics so special is the process. The word for ceramics, “Cini”, meaning ‘from China’ is used to describe tiles and tableware containing 85% quartz. The tiles, are covered with a hard, white coating, and it is this glassy coating that gives the depth to the colours and the motifs, while shielding the tile against the elements, such as acid rain, UV light, etc. The glaze is called “sır”, which in Turkish means ‘secret’ – indicating that the formula had never been written down by ancient masters. The İznik Foundation approached this mystery scientifically and collaborated with various institutions on experiments until the formula was rediscovered. After the application of the glaze, the handmade tiles are fired for the second time at more than 930° C for at least 12 hours. This allows the first layer of liquid quartz coating, the colours, and the glaze to bind, creating a robust tile that will endure all exterior conditions, including dust, freezing, humidity and rain. That’s why we can still admire these tiles at Topkapı Palace. “I was really interested in the İznik style and started researching it more, and in the beginning, I started by copying patterns of Turkish motifs. Then I started experimenting and my biology background came out – I painted a flower I found on the coast road. I also have a very special painting of Ortaköy – from 15 July — I was there, and I was inspired to paint the story I saw. I think it is important to develop my own style”. “When you live in a country as a foreigner, you have to adapt to your new home country but you have to keep your own identity. In this respect, you can always learn something new. I try to understand historical and cultural

aspects of the people and places I have visited in Turkey, and several people have offered to teach me the İznik Technique of painting and at the same time, I have done research to improve my knowledge of the art of İznik.”

“Because I was a teacher for so many years, the next step for me was to give workshops. So that is what I have been doing now for more than a year. I think that transferring this knowledge to others is important so I invite people to my home; and initially they believe the technique is too hard, but they come and they make little dishes or tile. I have a lot of examples of Turkish motifs, and I enjoy telling them more about the history of İznik, but, for example, I have an Irish friend who had just moved and she wanted a tile that said ‘Welcome’ in Irish with the symbols on her front door.

So, I encourage people to do their own thing – not to copy this or that. It is your work, and I want to help stimulate that creativity in people”. Potters has received positive feedback from foreigners as well as Turkish people who are interested in learning the technique and about the history. “It so happened that I got a call from someone I met on the bus who was interested to come to my home to learn, and it turns out that her great grandparents were from İznik, so it can be surprising to people to learn that as a Dutch woman I am learning their cultural arts. So, I have to be careful – I don’t claim to be an expert because I am still learning. One of my ideas is to plan a cultural excursion to a place, for example, there happens to be a nice museum on the Bosphorus close to the Black Sea (Sadberk Hanım Muzesi has a notable ceramic collection) and they had an expedition which I attended. So this is a nice concept, that we could combine, and then later on, do a workshop”.

Potters is also giving back to the community through volunteering. She teaches English as well as tilemaking to refugees. “I am continuing to do workshops so that refugee woman can make and sell products and keep the proceeds. I did a lot for Christmas Markets making items with the text ‘Peace at Aleppo’ or writing ‘peace’ in different languages. I’ve done workshops with refugees at home and they were so happy to do something by themselves. As an expat woman, it makes me feel good to do this — it is good for my ‘corazon’”. For more information about Hanneke and her workshops, you can contact her at





ewellery designer Pegah Moshfeghi is making waves with her dazzling creations – inspired by her home country of Iran and her adopted country, Turkey, she is gaining the attention of notable cultural institutions like the Sakıp Sabancı Museum and local celebrities. Monisha Kar spoke to this up-and-coming talent





n electronics engineer by trade, Pegah Moshfeghi studied and worked in Iran for 10 years. After moving to Turkey, she continued working as an engineer, but she had to work six days a week. With two young children, she was looking for something that offered her more work-lifebalance. In the meantime, she started exploring hobbies as a way to unwind from work. Initially, she looked for painting courses in different atölyes, but the first time she entered a jewellery atölye, she was hooked and she knew designing jewellery was her calling. “From a young age, I was convinced that painting and drawing was a way for me to convey my feelings and portray my culture in concrete terms. However, it had always been just a hobby for me. After moving to Turkey, I became more

curious about drawing and painting. The lines in my dreams always directed me to the workshops around the city. When I first set foot in a jewellery atölye, the magical atmosphere convinced me that I could turn the drawings in my dreams into a reality. I thought jewellery was the perfect way to convey and share my feelings with others. I decided that my lifelong goal was to be a jewellery designer”. After exhaustive research, Moshfeghi signed up for a course in Sultanahmet with several other women. She attended class once a month, for three years. In the first three months, she gathered all the necessary tools and equipment so that she could practice and learn at home. She continued to work six days a week at her engineering job, and simultaneously did her training at home, often staying up until 2 or 3 a.m.


LALE INTERVIEW “After one year, something happened. I realised that this could be more than a hobby. People loved what I produced, and I felt that I could make a living from this. For the remaining two years of my study, I went to another atölye to learn different techniques. I finished my education in three years, and established my brand and atölye”.

Her journey included practical training with many mentors and masters. She studied lapidary and different jewellery techniques at the workshop of Şenay Akin. She learned enamelling and the study of contemporary art from Tuba Atman at Mahreç Art House. She has since created the Pegah Jewellery brand and has established a workshop with two designer friends named “Workshop of Happiness”, where they continue to dream together and give life to their drawings.

One of the keys to her success is her determination and the extra steps she has taken to master the craft. “There are some universities that teach technical jewellery design, but the people who graduate don’t produce in the same way that I could. They would have to take an apprenticeship or courses in Sultanahmet or Kapalıçarşı. There are so many experienced and advanced producers and designers, and they want to teach and share what they have learned. This experience helps you understand the entire process of designing and manufacturing and selling. The area around Sultanahmet and Kapalıçarşı are full of small atölyes – and in each atölye, you learn some different techniques from an old usta. It is up to the individual to pursue and develop these relationships. If you are passionate about learning, the doors will open up to you. I love what I do and I wanted to do this professionally. It is not just a hobby for me. After just six years, I was able to create a new job for myself. Even if I move countries, I can take this skill and business with me”.

For many people, switching professions mid-career would be a daunting proposition. While Moshfeghi’s success may look like a case of luck, it required planning, saving, long hours and having a support network in place. “The lessons and courses as well as the tools are an investment; since I was working beforehand and during this time, I was able to finance my education and training. Additionally, my husband was supportive of me and my efforts. After I established my brand and store in Nişantaşı, I was able to earn money and I am now able to do everything myself. If you want to pursue this field, it is important that you save money and are able to pay for your own education and materials”.

Running the Business To be a successful designer, having the artistic talent and ability to create a new product is just one part of the equation. Understanding the business of jewellery and design is another skillset. Anyone who creates art or designs for a living is aware that it is difficult to safeguard your work from being appropriated and sold by others. When asked if this was a concern, Moshfeghi said that patenting her designs is a lengthy and expensive process (For her Aşk and Hiç collections alone, she has more than 50 designs). If anyone had it in their mind to copy her work, all they would have to do is change something minor and it could be considered a different product. Instead, her focus is to keep designing and producing new, unique collections and showcasing them. As she has become a more permanent fixture in Turkish and Iranian jewellery shows, people increasingly recognise her and her designs. Like clothing designers, jewellery designers also have to renew their products according to the seasons and especially for holidays like Valentine’s Day, Mothers’ Day and New Year. That can make for a demanding schedule. “I think it is a long journey from something that happens in your mind to the point when you can create a finished product. From the first day, six years ago when I started my jewellery design course, I was thinking about how to make my Aşk and Hiç designs into a collection. Once I started my atölye, I collected all my ideas and then produced this collection. You have to be


thoughtful about how many product lines and products you want to make. Some designs you can do by hand, in the atölye, with raw materials. But for others, you may have to use computer programs or other technology to develop a model of how the final product would look. I keep a notebook and jot down ideas”. “I start with a small collection and then build from there. Since styles and preferences change, I want to get feedback from customers, and I try to test my designs with all of them to make sure there is interest. For this reason, I chose to participate in the IWI Christmas Bazaar and other exhibitions and shows because you have customers from all over the world, and without any reference or knowledge of the meanings of the symbols or handwriting used in my designs, people liked the calligraphy, and appreciated that the words had a special meaning.”

“For the latest collection which is based on Persepolis, (the capital of the Achaemenid Empire), I did research on Iranian history and was careful to be honest with the culture and past while putting a modern spin on the design. It’s a risky proposition. I started several months ago, and I think now it has been finalised. I have been selling the Aşk and Hiç collection for over a year now, and many people know about me and my work. If people started to copy my collection, I have something new and different to share with them. Living as an Iranian in Turkey — I can pull from Turkish culture, foreign friends and Iranian culture and combine these aspects into something new and unique. I can also experiment with different combinations of metal. Many people know that my designs are special because they don’t see them anywhere else. Many people call themselves designers, and they may have an atölye in cooperation with them, and a presence online, but they are not designers, or producers; they are actually selling a “brand” – so it is difficult to establish and distinguish your value in this landscape. But, you do find people who appreciate

the design. Long-time customers might have something in mind for a special occasion, and they call me to collaborate – and this is important for me – that people come to me not as a seller, but as a designer.”

Beyond Borders Moshfeghi is working hard to promote her brand globally. In addition to working on her designs, she stays busy traveling to attend jewellery shows, festivals, or expositions around the world. She has also collaborated with Sakıp Sabancı Museum and has designed special collections for their handwriting and Feyhaman Duran exhibits, which can be found exclusively in their gift shop. Her talents are getting her noticed around the region. “We have a website, Instagram and Facebook accounts. These days, even having a presence on YouTube is so important. We started to loan jewellery to actors and actresses — it is a good marketing tool since public relations is necessary in our field. So, we try to establish and maintain contact with celebrities to be our brand ambassadors. My point of view is that I should go step-by-step, I don’t want to rely on my husband, and I want to go to bigger markets, but I am not in a rush. I don’t plan too far ahead. Ten years ago, I would never have thought that I would have a new job. I love being in Turkey, and I love my job — it is a big opportunity for me!”

You can follow Pegah at pegahjewellery. com, and on Facebook and Instagram @ pegahjewellery


Registration for 5th Grade PREP CLASS in English or French is still open at the Çamlıca Campus!

Established by Keystone International Schools

Registration for

PRIMARY DUAL Turkish/English

program is still open at the Dragos campus!


Çamlıca - Dragos - Erenköy - Acarkent - Sabancı - Toronto Özel Kilittaşı Okulları Preschool & Primary & Secondary School +90 (216) 370 49 51

Ä°stanbul / Toronto Come explore with us!




3 GENERATIONS: IN THIS FAMILY, CHANGE IS RELATIVE The film 3 Generations had its world premiere at the 2015 Toronto International Film Festival under its original title About Ray. The film is a comedy/drama that will be broadcast in cinemas around Istanbul starting 7 July 2017. The director of the film is Gaby Dellal and the cast includes famous actors Elle Fanning, Naomi Watts, Tate Donovan and Susan Sarandon


he movie 3 Generations tells the story of a teenager named Ray, who was born in a female body and realised at an early age that he wants to make the transition from female to male. Ray lives with his mother Maggie (Naomi Watts), his grandmother Dolly (Susan Sarandon) and his grandmother’s lesbian partner—all sharing the same house in New York City. The movie starts with a declaration from Ray, who at 16, says that his biggest wish in life is to finally become a boy and to find his genuine identity. As a matter of fact, he already dresses and behaves like a boy, and is waiting to begin his hormonal treatment. The only problem is that he is underaged and needs the legal consent of his father whom he has not seen since childhood. While Ray’s mother Maggie accepts his decision to transition and helps to obtain the necessary signatures to commence the hormonal treatment, she is conflicted about Ray’s choice and often has second thoughts. Through a series of flashbacks interspersed with present day, we see Ray’s perspective from behind the lens. As a child, his mom wanted him to dress up like a princess or Cinderella, while his desire was to act like an astronaut or a cowboy. Hence, we see how his mother projected her own inner wishes over her child — never giving him freedom to choose, nor ever asking him what he really wanted. This is a classic struggle – the lack of communication between parent and child, and the desire of the parent to impose his/her own beliefs on the child. Parents often try to shape their kids, forgetting that they should have their own identity. In contrast to Ray’s mother, his grandmother is decidedly against Ray’s wishes. One might have expected more tolerance from his grandmother Dolly, who is a lesbian, yet, she bullies him at the beginning, saying that he should be a lesbian instead, and not understanding why he should be “anti-feminist”. The film puts emphasis on the life and struggle of the mother Maggie, who in her youth had a love affair both with her child’s father and his uncle, and supersedes Ray’s transition


to a person with a different gender and identity. Even if on the surface the story presents Ray’s strides to change from female to male, the actual focus is on Maggie who has a lot of melodramatic revelations. Another criticism is about Dolly who is not able to state a firm opinion about what’s happening. This is one of the biggest drawbacks of the movie. T SPOILER ALER When Ray realises that his father Craig (Tate Donovan) will not sign the papers for his hormone treatment, he decides to ask for his father’s consent and signature in person. Craig lives with his new family and three young children outside of town, in the suburbs. A funny but clichéd scene is introduced in the movie when Maggie, worried about Ray’s lengthy absence from home, decides to go after him. She is accompanied by Dolly and her lesbian partner, driving an old car. On the way, they stop at a gas station and Maggie takes the car leaving her two moms there in astonishment. In the end, Ray gets his father’s written consent but in the process, he discovers that his real father is in fact the man he thought was his uncle, Mathew, with whom his mom had a short sexual relationship. Ultimately, Ray welcomes all these people into his new life, and the last scene of the movie ends by showing everyone — his mom, his grandmother, her lesbian partner, his father on paper with his own family, and his biological father — over dinner in a Japanese restaurant. Everybody seems to be happy, and got what they really wanted. The film could be considered a vehicle to educate people about the difficult process of navigating transgender identity and the affect it has on the individual and those close to them. However, the plot and subject should have been more focused on that aspect of the story and lived experience, and less so on the life story and revelations of Maggie. Although the movie is called About Ray, it seems to be more about Maggie, who must put her complicated romantic past in order. The dialogue has some shortcomings, and sometimes one has the feeling of watching a soap opera instead of an artistic movie. Aside from Ray, the characters are not fully developed. To learn to accept change and become more understanding, all the characters in the film should confront their own identities and lives and that was a missed opportunity. All-in-all, the movie is worth watching — if not because of the transgender plot itself, which is not given the attention it deserved — but because of the strong casting and the feeling of hope that arises from the film.



CINEMAS OF ISTANBUL Is cinema an art that copies life or is the film industry just a big money-making machine? Nevertheless, going to the movies and watching a good film can be a very pleasant experience as one can find in it a whole world waiting to be explored


ost cities around the world have cinemas where one can spend two hours or so watching local or foreign movies. This is also the case in Istanbul, which offers a large variety of movie theatres that span from those located in brand new shopping centres to the old, nostalgic and historical ones in Beyoğlu. Grand Pera Beyoğlu Cinema resides in a historical building that was erected in 1884 for Abraham Paşa, by the architect Alexander Vallaury and was called Circle d’Orient. Not limited to just movies, it will also feature classical concerts and opera performances. Inside, one can also enjoy new shops and cafes. This is one more reason to visit the venue. For more information, visit Movies can also be watched at the private Pera Museum, founded by Suna and Inan Kıraç Foundation in the year of 2005. Inside the museum there are temporary and permanent exhibitions, a small bookstore, a nice café and of course, the cinema. In fact, the building hosting the museum was first meant to function as Bristol hotel, and was designed by the architect Achille Manoussos. More information about the current movies and exhibitions can be obtained at

more. For more information about Uniq and its activities, you can visit their web site at If you are tired of watching commercial movies, local institutions regularly host international film festivals throughout the year. Recently, Akbank Sanat Beyoğlu hosted the Nordic Film Days, which typically occurs every June. This event was made with the help of the Istanbul Swedish Consulate, Sweden Institute, Finland Film Foundation, Denmark Film Institute and Norway Institute. During the Nordic Films festival at Akbank Sanat one could watch movies from Sweden, Norway, Finland and Denmark with Turkish subtitles. For more information on this and future events, you can visit

Looking ahead, the 5th International Bosphorus Film Festival will take place this year in the period of 17-26 of November and the venue chosen for screening the movies is Atlas cinema in Beyoğlu. The aim of the festival is to support young producers and directors and to promote the Turkish cinema both in Turkey and abroad. There are so many choices for cinema in Istanbul, you can find what you are looking for whether the setting is new and modern, or nostalgic in old Istanbul. The most important thing, in my opinion, is to choose the right movie and watch it in a good company.

Another important cinema in the Beyoğlu is Atlas cinema, which is considered one of the largest and most historic cinemas in Istanbul. It was built in 1870 during the time of Sultan Abdülaziz, by the Armenian business man Agop Köçeyan, and intended to be used as a winter house. On the weekends, the French Cultural Institute in Taksim shows French and the occasional American movie with Turkish subtitles. It is a cosy and pretty theatre, and is frankly one of my favourites, as the movies you watch are so different from the big-budget commercial ones. Additionally, there are no advertisements at the beginning of the movie, and no break in the middle of the movie. The Institute itself is a quiet and charming place so close to the bustle of Istiklal Boulevard, but so far from the madding crowd. There is an open yard and a nice café inside, and a library where you can borrow French-language books. For more information about the schedule of movies visit And what could be more enjoyable than watching a movie in the open? Yes, we can do that during the summer months at Uniq Istanbul in Maslak. In fact, Uniq Istanbul is a place where one can find everything from shops, restaurants, cafes, outdoor recreation, a concert hall, photography exhibits and




BÜYÜKADA PILGRIMAGE April 23 has the distinction of being not only Turkey’s National Sovereignty and Youth Day, but also St George’s Day (Aya Yorgi). Born in Turkey, St. George is the patron saint of many cities and countries globally, and pilgrims from around the world make their way to Büyükada to visit the monastery built in his name. Fiona Slay joined the crowds for a unique excursion to the ‘big island’


he boat trip out from Istanbul to Büyükada is always a delight, in any weather, but there was a special air of festive excitement that day; I didn’t dare to calculate whether there were enough lifejackets on board for the hordes of people that had crowded onto the ferry. Instead, I relaxed into the holiday spirit along with the Turkish families, for this was no ordinary touristic day out. Turkey’s National Sovereignty and Youth Day falls on 23 April, but my fellow travellers were celebrating in a very different tradition. This date is also St George’s Day, and the crowd was heading out to make a pilgrimage to the monastery of Aya Yorgi (as St George is known here), sited atop the steep hill at the centre of Büyükada. The island was once home to a large Greek Orthodox population, but the monastery (and a fascinating museum) remain as testament to the strength of their former community. Muslims as well and Christians join together in a journey that starts early in the morning with the boat ride across to this beautiful island. On arrival at the little ferry terminal, and heading up towards the pretty meydan, we were greeted by countless stalls and happy sellers crying out their wares. Today it’s not just delicious fresh simit that’s on offer, today’s the day to make your pilgrimage and seek your wish…. “What do you wish for...?” I was asked, many times, in strange ways…! “Health, love, children, exam success, marriage, money, a car...?!” According to my answer, I would be sold the correct colour of a small piece of ribbon, affixed to a pin, or a candle, or a ball of thread…. Equipped with my new knowledge and the necessary paraphernalia for pilgrimage, I joined the line waiting for a horse-drawn phaeton carriage to ease the next stage of the journey. At the head of the queue, the “phaeton adam” was helpfully organising passengers into parties of four to fill each carriage – the horses were being worked hard that day. We shared our ride with a delightful Turkish lady, a veteran of many years of pilgrimage, who made sure that we knew her to be a Christian. After about 20 minutes, at the point where the road reaches the middle of the ridgeline and the eastern shore of the island comes into view, the phaetons unload and race back


to collect new passengers. From here, you’re on foot for the remainder of the ascent. But first, you tie one end of your coloured thread onto a tree, and start to unravel it as you ascend the hill… if you can make it to the monastery without breaking the thread, your wish will come true. (And if the thread is a little short, there will be more available to purchase on the way…)

LALE CULTURE are getting along fine these days, but we found it surprising and moving to experience the quiet, public proselytising of Christian faith believers. Ladies in headscarves, some wearing flower garlands on top, mingled freely and easily with robed gentlemen speaking from the Bible. When our unwinding thread ran out (oh dear!), we pinned our little ribbons to a tree and made our fervent wishes. Shortly after, we arrived at the summit and saw the monastery for the first time. Security was tight, but the sight of heavily armed police was not going to spoil anyone’s happy mood.

The solid, cobbled pathway was already strewn with multicoloured threads by mid-morning, giving the forested trail a rather mystical feel, somewhat contemporary art look. Along the way, you could have your hands painted with henna whilst listening to a reading from the Bible (in Turkish). A group of friendly musicians, playing various instruments and singing gospel songs, invited us to join their live performance on You Tube - we declined the offer, but were swept along and upwards on the wave of goodwill. Romanians, French, Dutch, and British folks were offering good wishes for the path ahead, and would happily discuss their faith, if that was right for you.

It is believed that people have been making this pilgrimage for at least two centuries, and probably considerably more. Our experience in Istanbul has been that Muslims and Christians

Inside the entrance porch, the coloured candles were now being lit and reverently placed beside a painting of St George. From there, pilgrims entered the richly decorated chapel, resplendent with ornate chandeliers, where icons were being gently touched as prayers were offered. Some were raising their hands in the Islamic gesture of prayer, whilst alongside them others pressed their palms together in the Christian way. There was little space to move but even so, strangers pushed sugar cubes into our hands… uncertain as to the meaning of this, we accepted the gifts and curiously expressed our thanks.

Exiting the chapel into the monastery’s walled garden, people were now pressing their sugar cubes in between the stones of the walls, and quietly praying to make their wishes come true – so, with nothing to lose, we followed suit. Restored by the handily available çay and simit, we set off on our descent, glad of heart and not too worried that our thread had run out before we had reached the monastery. Our luck is to be living here, to be welcomed by the warm Turkish people into sharing traditional experiences – what else could we wish for?




REWORKING THREADS Knitwear designer Catherine Bayar reflects on the intersections of craft and culture, globalisation and activism she’s experienced in her 20 years plus in Turkey


he last few years have been challenging: for Americans and Turks, for Istanbul expats and locals, and globally, for women. Two decades observing the ebb and flow of Turkish tourism, the seismic swings of the political pendulum in Turkey—and in the US—have been a rollercoaster ride of the unexpected and unprecedented. But as things play out on the macro stage, I also see a quiet handmade revolution unfolding. I see women knitting pussy hats in political protest, undercutting fast fashion with slow making, and challenging us-versus-them narratives with the simple act of gathering with other women to talk, laugh and create. Against this turbulent backdrop, I feel like I’ve come full circle. I first visited Istanbul in the early ‘90s, while working as a design director for a big California-based clothing manufacturer, looking for quality cotton t-shirts at a cheap price. Fast fashion had yet to take hold of the industry, but department stores were pushing suppliers to provide merchandise at a price to compete with more direct lines of production, like the GAP. At that time I worked in about 40 countries but unlike most, Turkey was more pleasure than drudgery, with competent professionals who also took incredible care to showcase their country to us visitors. They urged me to see more than just its most famous megacity, so after many work visits, I took a month long solo tour in 1998. I had been contemplating relocation to a country in the Mediterranean region but was most definitely not looking for a romantic relationship. Kismet had other plans of course, and placed a carpetselling, textile-hunting man in my path. Smitten, we moved in together, with surprisingly no objection from his relatively conservative Muslim family. We married four years later and settled in Selçuk, a lovely Aegean town filled with GrecoRoman and Byzantine ruins, tourists and 30,000 inhabitants. There were other expats around but I hadn’t moved to Turkey to cling to my culturally American quirks and remain an


outsider. But until I learned Turkish and Kurdish, how could I connect with my many new female, headscarf-wearing relatives, none of whom spoke English? They were all wonderful home keepers and cooks, baking their own bread, making every meal from scratch using nothing store-bought, skills I appreciated but had no time for with a new business: a kilim and carpet shop in the center of town and, later, a café and wine bar called Mosaik. Needles and yarn were things I always had time for. Knitting was a favorite talent and compulsion for keeping my hands and mind busy while I grappled with finding my place in a family that accepted me, but had grown up in such a different culture than mine. Yet one fact struck me: every woman in our household was a knitter. Knitting was a lifeline I grabbed with gusto. My mom and grandmother had shown me how to knit as a child but I’m left-handed, so their English style instruction didn’t stick. In my 20s, I picked up the needles again, this time in Denmark on a trip with my knitwear design mentor. His non-English-speaking mom showed me how to take the luscious handspun wool available everywhere and knit Continental style—tensioning the working yarn with the left hand—which suited my ambidextrous tendencies perfectly. I couldn’t yet tell my new relatives much about myself, but I could show them me. How I put together colors and patterns by making a hat for a nephew, how I played with scale and texture in a dress for a niece. In turn, they showed me how they knit intricate multi-needle jacquard slippers that kept our feet so warm. We dreamed up hats, scarves and socks to sell in our vintage textile shop. At the time, cruise ship travelers rarely got beyond the high-pressure shops of the port town Kuşadası so Selçuk got a quirky mix of academics and backpackers. But that suited me fine, trading travel stories and tales of Turkish daily life in our shop by day and café by night. If shoppers weren’t interested in hand woven kilims and carpets, they’d snap up our hand knits instead.

LALE LIFE But these women didn’t just knit. They excelled in a variety of traditional Turkish crafts. They embroidered towels, crocheted bath scrubbers and oya, the decorative floral trim that adorned their headscarves, painted ceramics and wet-felted small rugs. They no longer had time for weaving large projects like they did when my mother-in-law was a girl, when women gathered after the farming, cooking and other house chores were complete, to show their daughters how to make the items they would need for their dowry. As Turkey has modernized, the ease of buying mass-produced goods has increased. None of my husband’s six sisters needed to learn to weave. It was far more affordable and far less time consuming to buy from the big box stores cropping up all over Izmir province. People preferred machine made, synthetic fiber rugs for ‘easy care’ to the painstakingly woven carpets that took months to create. The only women in our town still weaving in traditional wool, silk and cotton worked for “carpet villages”, commercialized stops for the bus tour groups to demonstrate traditional Turkish fiber crafts. These weavers were paid a daily rate and insurance benefits, but the weaving they did was mainly for show. But clearly the women of our town retained the timeless urge to create beautiful things by hand, if on a smaller scale than their mothers and grandmothers. Tourism had turned weaving into a commodity that had to compete with global pricing, so the most of the goods actually sold were predominately made in cheaper labor countries farther to the east. That wasn’t its only effect: As tour group visits became restricted by town halls competing for gate fees, small businesses like ours struggled, a main reason we decided to move to Sultanahmet in 2010. Though Istanbul was a huge place, we both felt firmly at home in the maze of the bazaar district. In contrast to my ‘90s visits, I could see those imported mass-produced items overtaking Turkish culture, especially in the fiber trades. Where streets had traditionally been arranged by product sold—one lane for scarves, another for slippers—shops now displayed the same Chinese made products. When admiring a sparkling hand woven silk, a shop owner would woo me with tales of weavers in small Anatolian villages, and feign indignation when I told him I knew the saris had been woven in India. The number of textile shops and carpet wholesalers I trust to have Turkish goods, and those with authentic vintage and antique weavings and embroideries, has dwindled considerably.

birthplace, and back to Selçuk, bringing a culturally diverse range of Turkish women and textile intrigued foreigners together so they can communicate directly themselves. But I didn’t want our dialogue to involve only tourists to Turkey. In 2014, as the flow of tourists began to slow as a result of protests and damaging media coverage, I started a Facebook group called Handmade Istanbul, to connect with other craftivists of Istanbul, whether native born or foreigners like me. I’ve been dismayed at the number of traditional artisans struggling to survive—particularly women who relocated to Istanbul from rural Anatolia so their men could find work, or refugees escaping war along our border—but heartened to meet educated Istanbullular savvy enough to sell their handcrafted goods online. I wanted to offer these artisans the opportunity to earn through their crafting skills. Handmade Istanbul’s seasonal markets are in part a response to this, in that they raise visibility of traditional and contemporary local artisans and provide an opportunity to sell. In 2017, we eternal optimists are recovering from the rollercoaster ride of the past several years and patiently wait for tourists to return to Sultanahmet. We offer workshops in our streetside garden shop just south of the Cemberlitaş tram stop, to examine various traditional handcrafts, with the goals of reinterpreting them into modern uses, and to use craft to raise awareness of social issues. We also host Stitch ‘n Bitch meetups most Sunday afternoons, with a wide variety of small handmade projects, fiber or otherwise, shared and admired. We may not speak the same languages, but we do share a common language of craft. I'm fascinated to hear what new conversations will transpire in our gatherings. As a writer, I also look forward to documenting the stories we share over busy hands and steaming cups of tea, creating a place for bridging cultures, discovering the universal characteristics that compel us to create. I hope you will join us. Visit Facebook/bazaar.bayar to connect with Catherine or learn more about her business. A version of this article was published by Hand/Eye magazine in October 2010. This article was adapted and reprinted with permission from the author, with contributions from Ruth Terry.

In this world-class city, I missed the exchange I had with the women of our former small town, so I started new dialogues. I saw craft as a tool of economic empowerment but also a subtle tool of education, particularly for travelers flocking to Istanbul in the early 2010s when Istanbul was a European Culture Capital. Visitors were especially curious about the perceived “Islamisation” of this country. As I helped visitors navigate the narrow lanes of the bazaars, I was often the only native English speaker they met during their trip to Turkey. They showered me with questions, especially about women’s roles and customs. We’ve hosted knit retreats for artisan travelers who have come to see historical sites and experience another culture hands-on, through shared sessions of knitting, crochet, embroidery and wet felting. We’ve also travelled with groups beyond our Old City walls to Mardin, my husband’s




TRAILBLAZING WITH HIKING ISTANBUL In this ever-expanding concrete jungle, it is still possible to quite literally go off the beaten path. With no clear tradition of self-organised hiking around the city, several Brits took it upon themselves to create a means to make this accessible for the public and has since given rise to an awareness of the value of green space for the mental and physical well-being of the city’s residents


n a city as big as Istanbul, you can’t help but do a lot of walking. Its traffic so notorious, you may find that hoofing it gets you to your destination faster than driving. Yet, for all the walking we do, it is primarily considered a way of getting from point A to point B, and not a lifestyle choice. Hiking Istanbul was born out of a desire to explore the natural surroundings and make that publicly available. The organisers of Hiking Istanbul are Nick Hobbs, who works in the music business, and Caroline Swicegood, an Ottoman historian. Nick and Caroline met through a mutual friend, Kate Clow, who is behind the Culture Routes Society and Lycian Way guidebook — whose mission is to make and preserve long distance walking, biking and horse-riding routes in Turkey. Over the Hills and Through the Woods Coming from Western Europe, where there is a fairly strong tradition of walking, and where there is public access to many long-distance trails and footpaths, it was a strange experience for Nick Hobbs to arrive in Istanbul and find that was not the case. “Generally speaking, for locals, there is not much culture of walking – long walking/hiking. What there is a culture of when I arrived was group trekking – which I did quite a few. You have a guide, you pay them and you go off somewhere – which is weird for me, because I never did that in all my life in Western Europe. I would go on my own somewhere, or with my friends and I would self-organise. I might stay in youth hostels, I might camp, but I didn’t need a guide. The guide was the maps. You could figure out pretty well where you could go, you could read about it, one way or another it wasn’t a big deal to plan a walking holiday. It didn’t really occur to me that I could do something about it myself”, Hobbs said. In the last several years, more attention has been given to public space, and what value you give it, and by extension, what value you give to nature.


“It is a bit like the same discourse on what value we give to the heating up of the climate, or the quality of the air we breathe or the quality of the water we swim in. Shouldn’t there be a value given to the quality of the air? Socially, it is a problem because it affects peoples’ health, their wellbeing, and it should have a cost, if you look at things in brutal economic terms. You should put a cost on that and it should be factored into the price of consuming petrol, or cars, etc.”. “That seems to me a discourse most people would understand on the theoretical level even if they don’t put it into practice. And then you look at Istanbul, which is right at the bottom of statistics for public space in Europe for a major city – it has the lowest ratio of public space per person. So, you feel in Istanbul, the value given to public space is very low compared to what its social value is. Of course, the social value is rather intangible – how do you measure it? You are talking about recreation, well-being, and psychology, which is tremendously important but hard to give an economic value to. Logically, you would give a value to it because if people are happy in a city, they will be more productive there will be less crime, less antisocial behaviour, and fewer people would be depressed. If the air is better, people will have better health, if they walk or cycle they will have better health. You think that is understandable”. “Our focus was what we could do as our contribution to this discourse. There was no tradition of self-hiking – choosing where to go – and no information, maps or books, no marked routes, no public footpaths, so that is an enormous block for people. That sustains a non-culture. Because it is difficult and there is no information that makes it easier not to do anything. So that is what we felt we could address, and we started the project in late 2013. The parameters that we set for ourselves were, we only use public transport, which if you are going to do a green project, makes sense. Also, you want to encourage the average person – who may not have much money – to be able to walk/hike. We decided that the hikes should be day hikes, not short walks, but if you want to make shorter versions, you can. The hikes normally last between six

LALE CITY to eight hours and average about 20 km, maybe more. That happens to be a quite practical distance in Istanbul hinterland because the distance between villages tends to be about 10 km. By the time you check where the buses go through, you don’t have much variation, in fact. The routes need to be that length, otherwise they don’t work. The other parameter that I set myself was to use technology that everyone has on their smartphone which is GPS technology – you don’t need a dedicated GPS device, you can use an app for navigation and information. After a certain amount of experimentation, I settled on an app which I use for routing the hikes and recording the hikes. We started to build our own app, which we will then diffuse to the public. It is not quite ready, but pretty advanced. We set out to create a book, app and dedicated website. Those were our three targets”. Since their inception, they have completed 95 hikes and over 600km of routes. In fact, you could walk almost all of those 600km without crossing your previous paths. In addition to their day hikes, they have linked some of these to make a long-distance route, whereby if you link them, it would create a seven-day, 300km route in which you could traverse the whole city. Birds, and Bees, Flowers and the Trees Organising the hikes, writing the blog of the hike, annotating the map to indicate parts that need to be reworked, recording challenges and notable features, and then photographing the hike for the website is no small feat. All-in-all, it is probably two days a week of Hobbs’ time – which is quite a lot considering he has a full-time job and other obligations, but he has no complaints. “There has been a process of discovery and exploration of landscapes – from farming land, pasture, many kinds of forests, rivers, coasts, cliffs, gorges, and a lot of industrial landscapes like reservoirs, dams and quarries – which produce their own environments. The land around Istanbul is remarkably rich – if you just drive through it, you wouldn’t know how rich it was. There is a huge variety of landscapes, incredible flora– literally hundreds of kinds of flowers, including exotic and rare ones. There are lots of birds, such as storks, and hundreds of feral dogs who often join us on the hikes. They are really a pleasure to have on hikes, but can also be a handful because they are not under anyone’s

control. They break everyone’s heart because we abandon them somewhere – they follow us for 20 km and then we have to leave them. There are also a lot of villages that are a bus ride from Istanbul – they are not like suburbia in any form. They have an agricultural economy, and are generally friendly and welcoming, and have their own community and history to different degrees. Caroline is strong on the historical aspects – particularly the villages – but also on other structures like the Osman aqueducts, dams, and fortresses. There are quite a lot of fortresses, especially on the coast”.

Rediscovering the Land From Hobbs perspective, the hikes should be interesting, but they are also an opportunity to increase consciousness of caring for the environment, and encouraging partnerships to preserve it. “A good hike for me is that in 20km or a day, you go through different landscapes, you might spend an hour or so in a forest, you might spend an hour or so on the crest of a hill. You might go past a quarry, or you might get to the Black Sea, or go through a couple of villages. We avoid roads like the plague and minimize any time walking on asphalt. The hikes should be as legal as possible so we are not walking through peoples’ gardens or crops, trying to respect whatever is around us as much as possible. Istanbul and Turkey is quite strange for this; you’ll have an army base where three-quarters is fenced off, but one-quarter isn’t – and that is because the one-quarter is a forest. You could just walk into it – and there are no signs to say you are suddenly in an army base – but you just explain – and that has never been a big deal. It is the same with ISKI, the water authority. A lot of places are ostensibly owned by the water authority, and they like to fence things off, but their fences are always broken because the locals break them – the shepherds break them, the picnickers break them, the anglers break them – you can see you are on ISKI land, but, you take a measured view. If you can see there is a tradition of access and you don’t have to do anything which is obviously trespassing, then we include it in our hike”. “We do make it very clear that the people who come on our hike are not to litter – in fact, whether it is the Forestry Board, or ISKI – I would like to inform where we found litter or had dumped rubbish to find out who did it and have that kind of dialog. It would be nice to be part of encouraging a consciousness of caring about the environment – not dumping, not littering, not throwing your plastic bottles away, not polluting the rivers and reservoirs. It would seem to me there is a common interest with the landowners to encourage hiking because hikers don’t do that. There is enormous room for increased awareness and respect for the countryside


LALE CITY and farmers and forestry and for rivers, for waterways, in Turkey. I think hiking groups should very much be a part of that. Our aspiration is to be a kind of catalyst for a cultural shift where people give value to public space, to nature and have people get to know nature, and venture out and experience it for themselves”. Adventures and Misadventures When you join a hike, it won’t be an ‘extreme’ adventure, but don’t expect an afternoon stroll in the park either. For a six to eight-hour hike that could span 20km, you need to come prepared and expect the unexpected.

being run over – it had escaped the field and wandered into the road, so I put it back in the field”. As far as preparation, Hobbs recommends plenty of water to ward against dehydration – a half litre in the winter is usually enough, but in the heat of summer, it could be three litres. As you may be hiking in open spaces for extended periods, sun cream to protect from sunburn is essential. At times, parts of the hike can be quite muddy, but very rarely is the mud an issue. Some of the hikes are technical; people may find themselves on the side of a reservoir, or cliff walking. If people feel a little insecure, there is usually an

extend – it might open up some places that are a bit difficult to access – it will make it easier to get further east”. Barring sickness, travel or inclement weather, you can expect to see Hobbs on a trek every Saturday that he is in Istanbul. At some point, he and the organisers would like to establish the group as an association with an official constitution so that the groundwork they have built is sustained.

option they can take to avoid those. But overall, the hikes do not require a high level or athleticism.

early 20s to people in their 70s. We even have a mother and her nine-year old who come on our hikes. We are very inclusive. If someone has a particular problem – maybe they are disabled, or wants to bring dogs, or kids – we can talk and figure out how to do it”.

In fact, the group has attracted a diverse group of individuals. “Now our hikes are 50/50 Turks/Non-Turks; 50/50 Men/Women, and the age spread is very broad, ranging from people in their

“We invite you to come along, we are companions for the day and we will do our best to look after you and inform you, but we are not taking responsibility for you. We have a disclaimer to protect ourselves, because we don’t charge for the hikes and we are not professional guides. We don’t guarantee that nothing will go wrong. I typically give notice if I think the weather is going to be bad – I tell people how long the hike is, and the degree of difficulty. The hikes usually have bailing points where people can take a bus back at one of the villages, but most people stick with it”. “We’ve had misadventures, but nothing serious. You have to be careful of tick bites – we had a hiking companion who got Lyme’s disease from a tick bite which got cured with antibiotics. There is a risk of snakebites, but it has never happened. We’ve seen snakes, but they slither away. Unfortunately, there is quite a bit of hunting around Istanbul, and there shouldn’t be. So, we’ve seen lots of boar hunters who tend to be surly and unfriendly – but never a boar. We have run into military and gendarme and they are always friendly. They seem bemused by us”. “We have a few enemies – one of them is brambles. I’ve become an expert on knowing when the brambles are too much and to reroute the hike. A lot of the paths are overgrown; if people actually walk the paths, the brambles wouldn’t be there. Heather is an early invader and the path may be entirely thick with heather, and it can be quite an experience because it flowers for a long time and the pollen is quite heavy and affects your breathing. There is always a risk of spraining your ankle or breaking your leg so far, out of over 90 hikes and a few 100 people, nothing has happened. I carry a medical kit so that I am half-prepared. We did find a goat with a broken leg that we tried to rescue. Recently, I saved a cow from


Future Plans The group has all the material for a book, they have re-walked all their hikes several times to iron out most of the kinks, so they can confidently tell people this works. They also have a well-maintained website and Facebook site which contains the most up-todate source of information on what is happening locally. Their aspirations are to develop the project further and expand to two-day hikes which will take them out of the city to places like Şile or Çatalca. That means hikers would have to get into accommodation in the villages – which might be nice for the villages so they have a stake in the hikes, which is part of the Cultural Routes concept. “There is not much more we can do in the Istanbul region because we have covered just about everywhere that is accessible. As public transport links

“It is a fantastic project and it is not over yet. In fact, it can never be over, but we can get it to a point where we can take stock and decide how to move forward. It has been a fantastic adventure and I discovered so much that I would never have known existed”.

For more information on Hiking Istanbul visit: Facebook/hikingistanbul Instagram/hikingistanbul Twitter/hikingistanbul



In this issue, IWI Book Club leaders Lesley Tahtakılıç shares a year in review, and Mary Akgüner writes about Orhan Pamuk’s The Museum of Innocence IWI Book Club 1: The Year 2016 – 2017

IWI Book Club 2: The Museum of Innocence


his book club year we’ve spent time in Vietnam, France, Italy, the USA, Uganda, Iraq, Iran, the UK, Germany, New Guinea and Neanderthal Europe vicariously through our reading. Among others we’ve met an intrepid English explorer (Queen of the Desert), an undercover communist spy (The Sympathizer), an Ethiopian immigrant (All Our Lives), pioneer anthropologists (Euphoria), an Iranian writer (Things I’ve Been Silent About), and a Cro-Magnon child (The Clan of the Cave Bear). We’ve experienced the art auction world of London, tribal life in the steamy jungles of New Guinea, hot summer days in the English countryside, the Islamic Revolution in Iran, small town life in the American Midwest, the end of the Vietnam War, growing up in poverty in Naples and the cave life of the Neanderthals.


Our aim is to read widely the best fiction and non-fiction we can find, whether newly published or classics. This year for book club we read nine novels, one biography and one memoir. After a thorough discussion of the book in question we rate it on a five-point scale Amazon-style. It’s very rare that a book will receive a 5* rating as there is always a range of views among the participants – in fact generally the wider the range, the more lively the discussion. This year the books which received the widest range were Euphoria and Madonna in a Fur Coat, both receiving ratings ranging from 5* to 2.5*.

She is an 18-year old shopgirl and he a 27-year-old distant relative when he first seduces her and she passionately complies. Despite being completely enamoured with Füsun, Kemal goes through with his engagement to Sibel. To avoid disgrace, Füsun's family moves. Kemal, totally forlorn, manages to find her only to learn that she has married another.

Besides our local members, we also have several overseas participants, women who have moved back to their home countries but who still keep in touch by email. Their comments and ratings are included in our discussions. Here are this year’s books with their ratings: The Charterhouse of Parma – Stendhal ?* My Brilliant Friend – Elena Ferrante 4* The Sympathizer – Viet Thanh Nguyen 4* Madonna in a Fur Coat – Sabahattin Ali 4* Queen of the Desert – Georgina Howell 4* All Our Names – Dinaw Mengistu 2.5* The Past – Tessa Hadley 3* Euphoria – Lily King 3.5* The Improbability of Love – Hannah Rothschild 4* Things I’ve Been Silent About – Azar Nafisi 3* The Clan of the Cave Bear – Jean Auel 4* We wound up the year with our last discussion in a Kandilli garden, followed by a jovial lunch in the local fish restaurant looking out at the most amazingly turquoise Bosphorus.

he Museum of Innocence by Orhan Pamuk serves as a guide to the museum of the same name located on the back streets of Galatasaray; each chapter in the book corresponds to an identically numbered display case in the museum. The items in the museum relate to the relationship between Kemal, the scion of a wealthy family and the beautiful Füsun.

For 10 years and over 600 more pages, Kemal waxes melancholic, mooning over Füsun, pilfering items from her home where he becomes a frequent dinner guest, and dreaming of the day that Füsun will be his again. The length and strength of his obsession sometimes seem too much. One interesting character in the novel is Orhan Pamuk himself. He and his family attend Kemal's engagement party where Orhan too, is captivated by Füsun. Kemal later commissions Orhan to write the story of his and Füsun's tragic romance. The Museum of Innocence examines the sexual mores and class bigotry of the 70s and early 80s in Istanbul with its strong prohibitions against premarital sex. The major political events of the day interact with the story (i.e., the violence leading up to the coup). Both the novel and the Museum itself attest to the creative genius of Orhan Pamuk. Mary Akgüner

Lesley Tahtakılıç





A TRIP THROUGH NATURE AND HISTORY Both Maureen Jones-Ergün and Nancy Habbas used to live in Istanbul and were active members of the Photo Club of Istanbul (PCI). Despite now living in Mersin, they have maintained their ties with the club. Recently, they generously invited the Istanbul members for a photo trek in their neck of the woods and six of them were very happy to accept!


ccupying the eastern-most stretch of the Mediterranean Sea, Mersin is a city that is often overshadowed by its better-known, resort-filled neighbours to the west. This has perhaps helped it maintain an authentic local charm that combined with its numerous historical and natural sights enchanted the Photo Club of Istanbul during their recent visit there. From the closest airport in Adana, it’s an easy one-hour drive to Mersin. However, a stop can be made at the halfway point to stretch one’s legs in the historic city of Tarsus whose most notable resident is perhaps Saint Paul. What remains of his home and the well where he drank are surrounded by a lovely rose garden well-worth a quick visit. A short walk through the historic neighbourhood and across the street will take you to the 40 Spoons Bazaar (Kırkkaşık Bedesteni).

Tarsus Old Town – Claudia Turgut Similar in style to the Grand Bazaar but a fraction of the size, the 18 shops inside offer souvenirs and handmade goods. It also has a number of cafes for a çay and some people-watching. If you’ve developed an appetite from all the history you’re taking in, it’s worth driving over to the Tarsus Waterfalls, the famous şelale, for a meal with a view.

Saint Paul’s Well – Katherine Baker


Tarsus Waterfalls – Nancy Habbas

LALE TRAVEL Tarsus Waterfalls – Linda Caldwell The caves of Cennet – Cehennem (Heaven and Hell) are surrounded by history, mythology and local flora. Hell is an easy visit, but it is a good idea to have sturdy shoes for the descent into Heaven to see the Church of the Virgin Mary and the open-mouthed cave. If you’re interested in a more immersive cave experience, go up the road to the Asthma Cave to get up close and personal with impressive stalagmites and stalactites. Be prepared for lots of stairs though.

Back onto the highway and you’re in Mersin before you know it. It’s a small, modern city with all the amenities but it is really the Marina that the locals flock to. Flanked on both sides by the kilometre-long pedestrian-friendly coast, the Marina is the place to go and enjoy a meal at any of the restaurants with abundant outdoor seating. You can take advantage of Mersin’s year-round sunny weather and relax beside the sea. It is to the west of Mersin city centre that you find the combination of crystal-clear waters and endless ancient ruins. Narlıkuyu is a mere one-hour drive away and we highly recommend waiting and having your breakfast there to start your day with a bang. The hill ascending to the Cennet – Cehennem caves has dozens of restaurants to choose from, each serving an excellent village breakfast, but our group stopped at the last one from the top – Ünlü Kafeterya. They fill your table with so much food that the trays groan under the weight of it all. Once you start hiking, you won’t regret having enjoyed this sumptuous breakfast! It really is a feast!

Cennet/heaven –Nancy Habbas

Claudia Turgut – Asthma Cave All that time spent underground is best remedied with a light lunch overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Head back down the hill into the tiny village of Narlıkuyu. There are numerous fish restaurants all located so close to the water, you could dip you toes in while you wait. If you have a sweet tooth, the lokmacı is at the ready to take your order and prepare you a fresh batch.

Breakfast – Claudia Turgut


LALE TRAVEL It is usually back to Mersin at this point for most visitors and with good reason. Because the city is not frequented by foreign tourists in quite the same numbers as some other coastal cities, the local cuisine has remained authentic and the prices are still fair. Tantuni is a common fast food, but grilled fish, liver and of course kebap reign supreme. A southeastern take on hummus, served piping hot and with baked pastırma on top is an appetizer that shouldn't be missed, washed down with locally produced salgam suyu, a spicy drink made from turnip juice. Our photo club had only scratched the surface of what there is to see and we hadn’t even explored Adana yet! The fourth largest city in Turkey has a lovely riverside park and the impressive Sabancı Mosque provides a nice backdrop reminiscent of Sultanahmet in Istanbul. As the airport isn’t far, it’s nice to take one last relaxing walk before the flight back to Sabiha Gökçen to rejoin the hustle and bustle of Istanbul.

Maureen Jones Ergün – Narlıkuyu The day is still young and a Maiden awaits your visit. Heading back in the direction of Mersin, 150 metres out at sea sits Kız Kalesi or the Maiden’s Castle. Built in 1104, she has survived the centuries in the mighty Mediterranean; your boat ride there and back will only cost you 10TL.

Linda Caldwell – Sabancı Mosque, Adana

Nancy Habbas – Kız Kalesi


Maureen Jones Ergün – Kız Kalesi boat



AŞURE: NOAH’S PUDDING Recently, one of the Neighbourhood Community Meetups met for a workshop at Ganime Dönmez’s home to learn how to prepare the traditional Turkish dessert aşure. Rich in history and cultural significance, it is a special treat that is made and shared with community as a sign of peace and a bright future


shura is a holiday celebrated annually in parts of the Muslim world. It signifies many events for Muslims, amongst the most significant being the day Noah’s Ark set on dry land. The monthlong festivities centre on promoting friendship, good relations between neighbours and universal peace and understanding. The story goes that Noah’s Ark was running low on rations when it went aground on Mount Ararat. While they were waiting for the water from the flood to recede, they gathered whatever was left – primarily grains and dried fruits, and, mixed them, forming a pudding which is called “Noah’s Pudding”, or aşure. Since that day, Muslims cook it every year on the month of Muharram according to the Islamic calendar in remembrance of what Noah and his people went through. The making of aşure is a common practice among Muslim and Christian people in the Middle East. Christian communities throughout the Middle East prepare a similar sweet wheat dish, called hedik, amah or qamhiyeh. Generally, people who prepare aşure eat very little of it, and instead, send a cup to each of the neighbours in their building. As tradition goes the residents of 40 houses to your east, west, north and south are considered neighbours. The symbolism behind this act is that sharing these ‘blessings’ helps strengthen community ties and instils a gratitude for the abundance provided by nature. Recipes for aşure vary widely, as it can be driven by what available harvest there is that year, regional tastes and preferences, and family traditions. Here is a sample recipe, but feel free to experiment with any grains, fruits, or nuts that you prefer. Other popular additions include pomegranate, sesame seeds and orange peel. Afıyet Olsun!

Recipe for Noah’s Pudding (makes 30 servings) Ingredients 1 cup wheat 1 cup white beans 1 cup garbanzo beans 1 cup raisins 1 cup almonds 3/4 cup peanuts 12 dried apricots 5 1/2 cups sugar water (enough to cover) Topping: walnuts, cinnamon Preparation: 1. Soak wheat, white beans, garbanzo beans and almonds in water overnight 2. Boil the above ingredients, remove the outer shell or skin 3. Soak the raisins in boiling water until they soften 4. Put all the ingredients above (steps 1-3) in a large pot and boil. Add peanuts and almonds (peeled and cut in half) at this point 5. Chop the apricot into small pieces, add to mixture along with sugar 6. Boil for 10-15 minutes and add toppings of your choice





LALE MUSIC Organised by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts (İKSV), the 24th Istanbul Jazz Festival will be take place this year under the sponsorship of Garanti Bank. The 24th Istanbul Jazz Festival will host leading names and new discoveries from the world of jazz as well as the stars of contemporary music


oming off the heels of İSKV’s Music Festival in May and June, music lovers can continue to explore a range of jazz, funk, world music, blues and rock performances at this year’s Jazz Festival. The festival will feature more than 200 names in 20 different venues around Istanbul between 4-20 July 2017. Highlights include: “Beyond The Memory” concert where famous stars will pay tribute to the cult flamenco guitarist and composer Paco De Lucia, the young star of vocal jazz Kandance Springs, masters Jacky Terrasson & Stephane Belmondo, one of the legendary names of European jazz Nik Bärtsch, and two delightful voices from Africa Fatoumata Diawara and Hindi Zahra. The “JUNUN” project, which had been initially led by Radiohead’s guitarist Jonny Greenwood, is among the guests at this year’s festival. This year’s festival will feature a remarkable innovation titled “ViTRin”: Showcase for Contemporary Music from Turkey. Held for the first time this year under the sponsorship of SOCAR Turkey, the series will focus on successful musicians and ensembles from the local scene and provide them with a new opportunity to reach a wider international audience. The rapid development of music production and the multitude of recently emerging musicians has led to new projects not only in Turkey, but also in the international arena. Because of increased interest and demand, the Istanbul Jazz Festival, has created an international platform for emerging artists. “ViTRin”, which takes its inspiration from similar international showcase events, is aimed to become an event that embraces the musical productions in Turkey and neighbouring countries and promote them to contribute to the universal culture and art. The series will feature more than 30 successful contemporary music and jazz artists and ensembles from Turkey. The concerts, to be held between 5-8 July, will be attended by prominent representatives of the international music industry, in addition to the festival audience.

The music marathon “Night Out” and the free-of-charge, open air event “Jazz in the Parks” will be held on the Asian side of Istanbul as part of the festival programme. The festival will feature “A Childlike Day”, a special event that includes performances and workshops for children. DIFFERENT EXPERIENCES IN DIVERSE VENUES The 24th Istanbul Jazz Festival concerts will be held in different locations around the city, and continue to provide a new experience for guests by turning unconventional spots into concert venues. Among the 20 venues that will host the festival this year are the enchanting Marmara Esma Sultan Mansion, which returns as a festival venue after a short break; the lush garden of the French Palace in Beyoğlu, the historical Sultan Park area of Swissôtel The Bosphorus, and with its Cote d’Azur-like atmosphere, the Panorama Terrace of The Grand Tarabya will also serve as festival venues for the first time. Other festival venues include Beykoz Kundura, Fenerbahçe Khalkedon, Austrian Cultural Office Garden, Sabancı University Sakıp Sabancı Museum, Salon İKSV, Uniq Open-Air Theatre, Zorlu PSM Main Theatre and Zorlu PSM Drama Theatre. Night Out programme will take place in Kadıköy’s

most beloved venues All Saints Moda Church, Club Quartier, Dorock XL, Kadıköy Sahne, KargART, Living Room, Moda Sahnesi and Zor. FESTIVAL TICKETS Tickets for the 24th Istanbul Jazz Festival are available from Biletix sales points, and from the İKSV main box office (every day from 10:00-18:00 except Sundays) where there is no service charge. Discounted tickets for students are available for all concerts. FOLLOW THE FESTIVAL ON SOCIAL MEDIA You can follow the Istanbul Jazz Festival social media accounts for full details on the festival, as well as video presentations about the musicians and instant updates regarding events. Facebook/istanbulcazfestivali The festival programme is announced on the official festival website, caz. and the İKSV Mobil app. The playlists created from the songs of the artists included in the festival programme can be followed on the 24th Istanbul Jazz Festival Spotify account: istanbulkutursanatvakfi.




IN THE PERA MUSEUM The Pera Museum has recently added several thought-provoking temporary exhibitions: “Doublethink - Doublevision” by various artists, and “Erotic Nature” by José Sancho. Verena Ringe recently visited and shares her impressions The Pera Museum is presently hosting two new exhibitions. Their themes are in no way connected, but both are worth a visit and are on display until the 6 August 2017


he exhibitions are “Doublethink - Doublevision” by various artists, and “Erotic Nature” by José Sancho. Both exhibitions at the Pera Museum are worth a separate visit, but as the entrance fee covers both, my suggestion is to take a coffee-break at the museum café to settle the eyes and mind before advancing to view the other show — to look afresh with no automatic comparison, as they are not comparable.

“Doublethink - Doublevision” The exhibition “Doublethink-Doublevision” explores alternative ways of thinking; suggesting that reading does not always refer to texts, and that we should simultaneously develop our sense of thinking and seeing at different levels. The introduction of new technologies demands new ways of thinking and art. Our minds have been conditioned by education, philosophies and cultures to recognise the written word as the true way of perceiving, as a guide to reasoning, and has forced us to rigorously conform our minds and ideas within the boundaries of letters.

But the ability to think on many different levels is a requirement in our new world of ever-changing media and images. Even something as mundane as the news takes on a new way of understanding the world. The same facts undergo a different level of interpretation and importance, depending on where and who you are. This exhibition challenges us not to assume that we understand what we observe around us as the truth, and to try and see on different levels at once. It is a very demanding but exciting new concept. Some artists,

a selection of which is presented to us at the Pera museum, have already taken this walk on quicksand and they offer the viewer a small path into the future of art through their interpretations. The viewer might not agree with this rethinking of what we believe was the only logical and absolute way of seeing, reading and observing. But these images are very compelling and most will find the chance to restructure the place of art and texts an interesting exercise or even a release of an imprisoned mind.

Texts as images have been with us for a very long time. Cartoons are not a new concept, as storytelling on walls are known to us from the caves of Alta Mira, as well as from very old churches where text was recorded in pictures for the illiterate. They were decoration and story at the same time. Visually and mentally, this exhibition guides us along new waves, as does the possibility of simultaneous levels of communication and understanding in the media. The range of participating artists is wide, as are their interpretations of these new processes of observation and expression. In Russia, a new school of thinking along these lines seems to develop fast, but many other artists from all over the world experiment along these new lines. What you see can hides as much as it reveals. Art has always been the means to point the viewer to truths and new ways of understanding the world. This exhibition is just the tentative beginning of art forms the viewer will be confronted with


more in the future. The explanatory texts in this exhibition give much to think about. All-in-all, it is a wonderful and intellectual show.

José Sancho “Erotic Nature” José Sancho is not a name branded about in Europe, but is an almost secret joy to those who follow Latin-American art. Unfortunately, Puerto Rico does not immediately conjure up images of modern art, yet, it is exactly the mental pictures we have of Puerto Rico — of lush vegetation and exotic animals — which we recognise in the art of José Sancho. This exhibition introduces us to the wide range of José Sanchoʼs work. He is a master in many mediums, including marble, stone, metal and wood. He turns these materials into the shapes of animals, human bodies and plants — and not just the recognisable images of say, armadillos, sloths, snakes or birds, no — they are honed down to their essence. The feel of their individuality, their very core of being is turned into the abstract of form, but stays true to its nature. This sensitivity towards his art subjects makes José Sancho the great artist that he is. Every single exhibit invites the viewer to take time taking in the life of the art displayed. A feeling of timelessness creeps into one’s soul, wishing to become one with the object. As simple as the art appears, it is difficult to wrest the gaze away, only to become entranced with the next object in line.

You see a sloth, hanging by its feet with universal time to give or slowly climbing whilst looking into your eyes, or a curved snake in sinuous, elegant arches or birds in flight whose metal consistency seems weightless itself. Whole groups of abstract animals are arranged to convey images of puffins or owls or penguins and in their collective stillness even a group of people seems a possibility. To visit this exhibition once means to return to fill our yearning for nature in its essence. Not only are animals or plants on show, the human torso in stark simplicity is also present. Many surprising elements make this exhibition a very personal experience. Often the viewer has to do a double-take to see the natural shapes in the strong abstracts. José Sancho did not come to his art at an early age. He studied economics and worked successfully in his field in the USA, South America and Europe. Yet, as a child of humble beginnings, he soaked in the atmosphere of the family carpentry workshop and became adept at working tools, especially for wood. At first, this remained a mere hobby, but his talent was quickly apparent and in his middle years he devoted all his time to his career as a sculptor. In his country, José Sanchoʼs often vast sculptures adorn many public spaces and parks. Even though his awardwinning works have been shown in many countries, it is the first time we are able to see his art in this country.

The title of this exhibition plays with the fact that all nature has an erotic element, often of natural elegance as the wondrous beauty of birds mating fully illustrates this.



THE SADBERK HANIM MUSEUM A visit to this little known private museum on the shore of the Bosphorus early ceramics from Iznik. There are beautifully decorated plates and tiles of an astounding quality. The public ceramics museum owns no better. These cabinets continue with vases and cups, dating through the ages


he Sadberk Hanɪm Museum in Sariyer is a privately owned museum, founded and owed by the Koç family. The wooden building, at the edge of the shore of the Bosphorus with an open view to the Black Sea, was built in the late 19th century and was later acquired by Vehbi Koç and his wife Sadberk Hanɪm and used as a summer residence. The museum was named after Sadberk who had a passion for traditional craftwork and was a great collector marvellous artefacts, rarely to be seen elsewhere. The museum opened in her honour in 1980. The H. Kocabaş collection of archaeological and pre-Islamic objects was later added and housed in a separate building, which nevertheless, forms a pleasing unit with the original building.

from the 14th century onwards and are a joy to behold. Anyone with in interest in ceramics and porcelain will be fascinated by the diversity on offer. Also to be found is Chinese blue and white porcelain from the 14th to the 19th century. More modern pieces from Kütahya of the 18th century and Çanakkale pottery of the 20th century are also present. The collection even incorporates pieces of Meissen porcelain of the 19th century made for the Turkish market. The visitor is led next to Islamic military items from as early as the 9th century and Anatolian figurines of the 11th

The atmosphere of the main building still gives the feeling of gracious living through the large rooms, high decorated ceilings and wide staircases.

most visited displays are the rooms which are fitted for a ceremony with all the customary trimmings and costumes of the old Turkish home life.

What draws the visitor’s immediate attention is the well-lit displays of

century. The top floor is taken over by beautifully designed and woven fabrics. Heavily embroidered kaftans and European style silk dresses for the Turkish ladies of fashion in the 19th century. And exquisite shoes, embellished with beads and lace. The implements of a


visit to the hamam are also on display from ridiculously high clogs, overlaid with silver to mirrors and embroidered towels. Unfortunately only a few examples of the beautiful old traditional headscarves are shown. One of the

Decorated beds are traditionally used in circumcision ceremonies.

Several showcases are filled with pots and flasks of black pottery of around 3000 BC and the Greek black and red ware is also present. A highlight are the showcases with jewellery, showing fine examples of rings, golden diadems and

The pre-Islamic collection is mainly an archaeological collection and is housed separately and consists of artefacts beginning with the Neolithic age around 6000 BC with clay pots and even figurines.

Some marble statues and bronze figurines of the roman period and a few byzantine artefacts complete the tour of an very interesting and well-stocked archaeological museum.

necklaces, mainly from the Hellenistic time. Some of the remarkable arrays of earrings look as if taken from a modern shop window. Well-lit showcases also show a fine diversity of ancient glass vessels.

Before leaving, a visit on the ground floor to the gift and bookshop may be rounded off with the museum brochures and books. There is a cafe, inside and out in the sloped garden for a peaceful rest. This museum is well worth a visit. The museum is closed on Wednesdays and the first day of religious holidays, from 10 am to 5 pm.





As members of IWI, we are lucky to have several sister organisations throughout Turkey, and as we move and travel around the country and the world, it is nice to know you can reach out to them when you are in the ‘neighbourhood’. In this issue, the International Women’s Association of Izmir brings us news from the sunny Aegean coast


hat do you get when you mix a group of women from all over the world with perfect Aegean springtime weather, a dash of history and a lovely lunch by the sea? Pure fun! In late April, friends and soon-to-be friends from the International Women’s Association Izmir took a trip outside of Izmir. Twenty-four women rode the bus from Izmir (six others joined by car) to Eski Doğanbey, a lovely village located on the south side of the Dilek Peninsula National Park, near Kuşadaşı. When the ladies arrived, they took in the beautiful surroundings of the tranquil, stone-homed hamlet, overlooking the delta of the Büyük Menderes (Great Meander) River. Located at the foot of the Samsun Mountain, Eski Doğanbey was originally known as Domatia (meaning “rooms” in Greek), a Greek settlement in the late 19th century. In 1924, during the population exchange, the Greek inhabitants moved to Thessaloniki, and the new arrivals came to Domatia from Albania, Bosnia, and Greece. It was an uphill battle as the


new residents struggled with barren land, wind, mountains, fires and floods. Eventually the renamed “Doğanbey” became largely deserted. A new settlement was located less than a kilometre away around 1985 called Yeni Doğanbey (New Doğanbey) as a more modern hub, with the original then being known as “Eski Doğanbey” (Old Doğanbey). However, in the 1990s Eski Doğanbey caught the eyes of artists, explorers and those interested in restoring and celebrating Turkish and Greek architecture and culture. Today the village is a natural beauty and is growing with a few boutique hotels, cafes, coffee shops and museums. While enjoying the atmosphere of the village itself, the women were treated to a tour of an Ottoman Costume Museum, said to be one of the most important ethnographic collections in Turkey.


The museum isn’t easy to find, but it’s worth it once you get there. It was opened in 2015 within one of the restored buildings in the village. Displaying Ottoman costumes, clothes, goods, headwear and period pieces collected from various parts of Turkey from the 19th and 20th centuries, it is said to be the second largest of its kind in Turkey. The proprietor of the museum is Emel Aksoy, granddaughter of Şakir Pasha, one of the two Grand Viziers of the Ottoman Sultan Abdülhamid II. With her timeless beauty she looked like she could have been modelling the traditional Ottoman costumes herself – and it turns out that she has! She has hosted fashion shows all over the world to share the lovely artform of Ottoman women’s wear. The International Women’s Association visitors enjoyed hearing stories about the


The bus ride back to Izmir was lively as the friends excitedly recounted their experiences, comparing notes and photos. The day was hot and long, but rewarding in so many ways. The only question the women had left at the end of the day was, “When is our next excursion?!” For more information about The International Women’s Association of Izmir, visit our website at: Ann Gogerty is an American expat living with her TurkishGerman husband on an olive farm outside of Izmir, Turkey. Catie Funk is an American expat living with her American husband learning Turkish and writing for Lisa Theiss is a German expat enjoying Turkish culture with her German husband in Izmir, Turkey.

Ottoman styles as well as spending time getting to know oneanother even better. On the meandering, narrow stone streets of the village, the women enjoyed playing with neighbourhood kittens and puppies, inhaling the fresh spring scents of the flora and discussing how they might afford some of the vacation homes that are for sale in the village! Appetites were strong after spending the morning exploring and walking about, so the next stop was lunch by the seaside. Sea bass, fresh mezes, dessert and drinks were served at Karina Restaurant overlooking the Aegean Sea. It was the perfect spot to rest, rejuvenate and continue conversations about the wonderful, magical hidden gem in the hills we had just visited. After lunch, we proceeded to the ancient site of Priene. This Greek city of Ionia was founded in the 8th century BC, but as with many historical places in the region, the location of the original city still remains unknown. In the 5th and 6th centuries AD Priene became a Christian city. In the 13th century AD Priene was the seat of the Byzantine local prince, Sabas Asidenos, until later that same century it passed into Muslim control. We enjoyed touring the sites and taking photos of ourselves in the “royal seats” in the very well-maintained ancient theatre.



MEETINGS AND PLAYGROUPS IWI has weekly playgroups organised according to children’s ages. These are usually hosted by our members at their homes, meet-ups at parks or walks along the Bosphorus coast IWI GROUPS These playgroups are free of charge for IWI members. This is an opportunity to meet other parents of infants or toddlers, as well as share the joys and trials of motherhood while creating a support network. Please contact the Mums ‘n Kids Coordinator Lyubov Gürler at if you have any questions or suggestions. The coordinators will add you to the group’s mailing list to keep you updated about future events. Pregnant and infants (0-12 months) Coordinator: Ayşe Walkers – Younger Toddlers (1-2 years) Coordinator: Merle Toddlers (2+) Coordinator: Joanna Asian Side Playgroup (for all ages) Coordinator: Aida

PLAYGROUPS AT SCHOOLS Bosphorus International PreSchool, Emirgan Teacher-organised activity, song and circle time, garden play (weatherpermitting). Coffee, tea, milk and cookies provided. When: Fridays Time: 10am-11:30am Cost: FREE Age group: 0-3 years Please contact Ms Collette LaffanPersembe at or telephone at 0212 277 8444. *Note: please call on Thursdays to reserve. There are only 10 openings every week. Please only ONE known adult per child.


British International School, Zekeriyaköy

Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Yeniköy, Istanbul

Indoor and outdoor play (weatherpermitting), followed by snack and music time. A known adult must stay and supervise the child.

Baby Playgroup for Boys and Girls

Zekeriyaköy (Tuesdays and Fridays) / Etiler (Wednesdays and Fridays) Time: 9am-11am (both campuses) Cost: 10TL per session Age: 0-2.5 years of age Please contact Mrs Amanda Ilhan, Preschool and Primary Deputy Director at or telephone at 0212 202 7027 ext 116

When: Thursdays Time: 9:30am-11:30am Cost: 50TL per session, (no blockbooking required) Age: 0-3 years Where: Ballet Studio, Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Güzelce Ali Paşa Cad. No. 50, Yeniköy, İstanbul Bring: Soft slippers for little feet Please contact Karen Holyoak Çiftçi, Director at director@ or telephone 0212 262 4302

MUMS ’N KIDS Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Tarabya, Istanbul Mother and Toddler Music and Movement Class. Parents and guardians can come along for fun singing and dancing with their little ones. When: Tuesdays and Thursdays Time: 9:30-12:00 Cost: 30TL per class or 50TL for two classes per week Age: 6-23 months Where: Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Sumer Korusu, Altuncu Sk, No 5, Tarabya, Istanbul Please contact Maresa Shahnooshi, Teacher and Preschool Coordinator at or by telephone on 0212 299 3906.

Kindermusik at Play to Learn Pre-School

KidsAloud British Culture International Preschool

On the European side in Akatlar, Nişantaşı and Koç University Rumelifeneri Campus and on the Asian side in Ataşehir, offering different music classes.

Summer School Age 2-6 and playgroup activitiıes Emirgan, Istanbul, www. ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer Song & Circle Time, Daytime Activities (art, dance, drama, sport, outdoor play) An adult to stay and supervise child

My Time Programme: 18-30 months ABC, Music and Me Programme: 2-4 years of age Please contact Ms Ozlem Hun at info@ or telephone at 0212 352 3031 or 0532 237 2272.

Time: 10:30am - 12:00pm Wednesdays Cost: FREE for IWI members Bring: soft slippers Where: Kids Aloud British Culture Preschool, Emirgan Mah. Şirin Sok. No. 32, Emirgan, Istanbul Please contact Mrs Sevgi Doğan or Carroll Ibramihov Tan Telephone: 0532 361 4427 / 212 229 3776, or *Note: please call on Fridays or Mondays to reserve (within the quota) We offer a 50% discount for IWI members for the summer school and 2016 September term. www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer

The Mums ’n Kids Team is a volunteer group that organises activities for you and your children to enjoy. Please take responsibility for your own child’s safety. IWI is not liable for any injury or loss incurred

OTHER ACTIVITIES AND PROVIDERS Fotini Café - Arnavutkoy, Besiktas

Full Circle Healing Doula List

IWI members enjoy a waiver on the 8TL entrance fee to the playroom. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount. Please contact Lena at or telephone 0533 093 9992. Francalaci Cd. No.26, Arnavutkoy, 34345 Istanbul, Turkey


Gymboree Play and Music

LOLA (Lots of Lovely Art)

Gymboree Play and Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0-5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in 30 countries, making Gymboree the global leader in early childhood development programmes. Designed by experts, the age-appropriate activities help develop the cognitive, physical and social skills of children as they play. The programmes are also recognised for their unique approach to parent involvement, which encourages participation in and understanding of each child’s development. Cost: 1,020TL for 12 classes (after IWI discount applied) Gymboree members can also enjoy complimentary free-play times during the week. For non-Gymboree members, IWI members these cost 30TL per hour. School Skills programme (drop-off) for the 2-3 year olds or 3-4 year olds. 10% discount on full-year School Skills programme for IWI members. Music and Art classes are also available. Limited offer for IWI members: 12 classes for the price of eight. Birthday parties for 1-7 year olds (20% discount for weekday bookings) Please contact Esra Taşar at or telephone 212 275 8787.

Our House

A café with a playroom dedicated to babies and toddlers up to three years old, Fotini Café is located along the Bosphorus coast and offers a comfortable area for you and your child to unwind and have fun at the same time.

15% discount for IWI members on Play and Learn classes in the Ortaköy branch. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount.

Hotpot Café - Şişli, Istanbul

Merkez Mah. Perihan Sk. Erbil Apt. No 71-73B, Şişli – Istanbul Located centrally in Şişli, with just a short walk from the metro station, Hotpot café offers playgroups (baby/toddler), yoga (prenatal, yoga, adults), dance and drama classes and other fun activities for both kids and mums. There is a 10% discount for IWI members. Please present your IWI membership card to claim. Please contact Melissa at or telephone 0212 343 5353.

There are doulas on both the European and Asian side. Doulas may be willing to travel to your location. For more detailed information about each doula, and on how a doula can support you, visit Specialising in pregnancy and childbirth, providing education and counselling services to expecting parents and bringing together experts who believe in a natural approach. After-school workshops, toddler art, kinder art, weekend workshops, holiday camps, themed birthday parties. Our House is located in Cihangir as a center for children and families. The aim of the organisation is to generate curiosity, creativity ad awareness for children at all stages of development.

Atölye Hippo - Your Art Studio in Yenikoy

A brand new kids’ space in Yeniköy – Istanbul! Arts & crafts workshops (ages 6-14), walk-in studio alternatives, mommy & me groups, play groups, movies nights, karaoke parties, Go sessions, Zumba dance… At Atölye Hippo, we want your kids to spend quality time, discovering, creating and designing. Whether you want to exploit those after school idle times, or schedule your weekends with exciting countless workshop alternatives, Atölye Hippo is the right place. Alternatively, Atölye Hippo workshops may also be offered at your premises, be it a special corporate event, a compound gathering, special parties, birthdays or celebrations at your homes… We are proud to announce that, we very recently started going to schools as an after-school may run into us at your school:) Contacts us at: 0542 521 21 30





Have you got vital skills you could be sharing with us? If so, we want to hear from you. We have the following positions available on the board or supporting the board. All enquiries to chairwoman@iwi-tr. org Events Coordinator

Lead teams to coordinate fun, fundraising events (approximately four per year, including the Christmas Festival). You need proven experience in Event or Project Management and be able to manage events from initiation through to lessons learned


Advertising Administrator

Works with the Advertising Coordinator and Lale Editor to attract new advertisers, and ensure that current advertisers are receiving the promotional support they signed up to. Good administration and people skills required

Asian-side Mums ‘N Kids Playgroup Organiser

Works with the Mums ‘N Kids Administrator to organise playgroups on the Asian side; help with the organisation of larger children-focused events. This is a great way to meet other mothers and be a part of a fun team.


t e g s ’ t e L Together Your Neighbourhood Community Meetup (NCM) administrator organizes meet-ups and activities in your area. This is a great chance to connect with other women and discover what IWI has to offer.

Unsure what area you are in and who to contact? Ask Maria Eroğlu at

MACENTA (Beşıktaş, Levent) Leen Saket,

PEMBE (Bebek)

Olga Treve,

SARI (Sarıyer)

Szilvia Nagy,

BEYAZ (Ortaköy)

Wendy Serter,

MOR (Nişantaşı, Beyoğlu) Anna Mozejko,

TURKUAZ (İstinye)

MAVİ (Göktürk)

Anke Tamer,

YEŞİL (Yesilköy, Bakirköy) Lida Rowhani,

TURUNCU (Çengelköy)

Gaye Hiçdönmez,


Skaidrite Dzene,

KIRMIZI (Kadıköy, Üsküdar) Gabriele Sailer,

Szilvia Nagy,

New To Istanbul?

Every month we hold Newcomer Coffee Mornings where you can learn more about IWI and Istanbul. Contact us to find out more.


Ayşe Yücel,


Gabriele Sailer,





Have you ever been in the situation where you need to entertain the kids while you work, or just need to occupy their time in a creative and constructive way? Businesswomen Elia Kourtesiadou and Yulia Zulfikari have teamed up to create a new family-friendly solution called Kids Friendly. Lyubov Gürler spoke to Elia about this new concept Tell us about yourselves, and what brought you to Istanbul. My name is Elia Kourtesiadou and I come from Thessaloniki in Greece where I spent most of my life. I studied International Relations and Public Management in Athens and later got an MBA in Finance and Investments in New York. I worked at an Investment Bank in NY and London for 10 years before my husband and I decided to start a family, at which time I quit my job and decided to major in motherhood! I met my Turkish husband while we were both working in NY and decided to move to Istanbul shortly after the birth of our first daughter, almost 7 years ago.

My partner Yulia Zulfikari is from Moscow in Russia. She studied Journalism, Marketing and Public Relations and worked as a brand manager for 10 years before she became a full-time mother. Yulia arrived in Istanbul about a year before me, after meeting her Turkish husband, and has since published two great books. We now have two kids each; Daphne, 7 and Melina, 3 are my daughters: Emir Ali, 7 and Emin, 4 are Yulia’s sons. When did you start the company? Our husbands were high school classmates which is how Yulia and I met and became friends. About a year after the birth of our second kids, we ran into each other at a shopping mall and we sat to drink a cup of coffee. It was almost two years ago when the first seed of our company was planted.


How did you get the idea to start the company? Why was this important to you both? What are your goals and objectives for the company and for your customers? As mothers raising our kids in a big, impersonal city, we were constantly on the look-out for family and kids-friendly places that had fun things to do. So naturally when we started thinking about going back to work, we were thinking around kids’ brands and children’s spaces. I was dreaming of a place where mothers can drink their coffee or read a book / surf the internet while kids play under supervision in the same place — a model that works great back in my country.

Yulia’s idea was a centrally managed network of spaces within restaurants where kids are occupied by educated personnel. And so, it started, by combining ideas, brainstorming, dreaming and planning. We created the Kids Friendly brand whose aim is to create professionally managed and uniquely designed kid-friendly spaces that creatively entertain kids between the ages of three and 10. These spaces can be within restaurants, cafes, shopping malls, airports, even stores or event/exhibition areas. They can be fixed in the shape of a dedicated room or flexible like an island that can be assembled and taken apart as needed. They are filled with stylish furniture, specially designed toys, hand-picked games, books and non-toxic craft materials. The people who engage the kids are fourth-year university students, or graduates in Teaching or Children Psychology programmes, who have received additional, specialised training by our company. Our small guests can freely draw, read books, play board games or participate in our craft

MUMS ’N KIDS any colour can be chosen and it can be decorated with the child’s name, picture of their favourite character, dots, stars, musical notes, hearts - you name it! It is specially designed and produced in Istanbul. Another characteristic that makes it unique is that it can be comfortably ridden by kids until the age of 10. It makes a great gift and it is a piece of Kids Friendly that our small friends can take home with them! Where can we get information on upcoming activities you will be holding? Our website is coming up any day. For now, you can follow us on instagram @kidsfriendly. What type of feedback have you gotten? What have you learned in the initial stages of your company and workshops and how has that helped improve what you do? Mothers everywhere have been asking us where we are going to set up shop next. We hear the same thing from everyone’s mouth: this is something that was missing from our city and our lives. Everyone is more than eager to participate, follow and support us. What are your future plans for the company? Our plan is to make this great city Kids Friendly and then move on to other cities and do the same there! Our wish is to make parents happy and relaxed. Our joy is to see kids entertained and excited! activities. Our goal is to keep the whole family happy. We want the kids to be engaged in playing, drawing or reading while their parents are busy enjoying their meal, working on their laptops or just chatting. Our logo and symbol is a rocking horse, and you will also see it present in our Kids Friendly spaces. Kids love riding it! It’s made from wood or a combination of cardboard and plywood, and it can be customised for purchase according to the wishes of our small customers and/or their mothers:


GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS Have a particular passion or want to learn one? IWI has various social clubs and affiliated groups in which to get involved. It is a great way to expand your community and make new friends!

Alcoholics Anonymous/Al-Anon Open AA (Alcoholics Anonymous) meetings in English are held in the Union Han building on Istiklal Caddesi, Tünel, next to the Swedish Consulate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 6.45pm (contact 0533 626 5724 ). There is an Alanon meeting at 6.30pm on Thursdays in the same location. On Sundays, there is an open AA meeting at 4,15pm in Harbiye (contact 0539 606 0123). On the Asian side in Kadikoy, there are meetings at 6pm on Thursdays and at 5.30pm on Saturdays (contact 0537 433 8368). A full listing of all English-speaking AA meetings in Turkey with local contacts can be found on the AA Europe website: Asian Ladies of Istanbul The Asian Ladies of Istanbul is a non-profit social group established over 20 years ago for ladies from East Asia living in Istanbul to come together. A members-only Facebook page provıdes news of the monthly lunches, news, events, photographs and useful information. Please contact Kim Cakirkaya at or 0533 463 6930 for further information. ARIT (American Research Institute of Turkey) The Friends of ARIT Istanbul, with branches in North America and Ankara, was established to support the ARIT in Turkey. The Istanbul Friends run a yearround programme of tours and lectures for members and guests. Membership is open to all interested residents of Istanbul. For further information call 0212 257 8111. AWl (American Women of Istanbul) AWI is a social network open to Americans, Canadians and spouses of US or Canadian citizens in Istanbul. AWI offers social programmes from special-interest groups to charities. If you’re a newcomer to Istanbul please contact our newcomers committee. Email Monisha Kar or Sia Israfil at Belgian Friends of Istanbul The Belgian Friends of Istanbul gathers every month for drinks, brunch, dinner, a walk or a cultural activity. We also offer activities such as the annual St Nicholas party for children or New Year’s dinner. Our Facebook page allows members to exchange information about job opportunities, housing, babysitting, Belgian cultural events in Istanbul, where to find Belgian products, etc. Email


Book Club There are two IWI book clubs. Book Club 1 is currently over-subscribed, but Book Club 2 is open to new members. Contact: Mary Akgüner (Book Club 2) Boy Scouts/Cub Scouts The Boy Scouts and Cub Scouts of America is a youth programme for character development and valuesbased leadership training. All boys in grades one to five (ages six to 10) holding a foreign passport are welcome to join Cubs. Older boys (ages 1118) are welcome to join Boy Scouts. Activities include hiking and camping. Email Vicki Gunay graygunay@gmail. com or 0532 314 11 34. Bridge Group Our bridge group meets on Fridays at 10.30am - all levels welcome. Playing bridge in our group is a way to spend a pleasant Friday. Please contact Sandra on 212 257 9781 or 0532 483 5319. C@rma C@rma is a social initiative promoting dialogue between professionals and NGOs. We have opportunities to volunteer with your specific skills on a pro-bono basis through our platform,, and we also organise events every two months at which NGOs can present their activites or brainstorm around their problem with professional volunteers. Our website and activities are in Turkish and English. For more information, contact CHICAS Spanish Speaking Women of Istanbul Today with more than 200 members, this group was created 36 years ago by women who lived, live and will live in Istanbul. Created to unite Latin American, Spaniards and others who know our language and want to practice, know each other, help each other, learn, have fun and share in this, our life in Istanbul. Email: Facebook: Chicas Estambul CIRCOLO ROMA (Comunità italiana) The Italian Association organises activities, such as cooking classes, dinners, parties, Italian and Turkish conversation classes, piano lessons, zumba, tamurriata, Italian cinema, medieval fencing, painting on porcelain, capoiera, singing and activities for children. The wonderful liberty hall can also be hired for private parties and conferences. Email Armanda Campaner or Elsa Zambonini, tel 0212 244 17 59 or visit our website

IWI Craft Group Contact Gaye Hiçdönmez at or 0532 700 0693. Die Bruecke Die Bruecke, founded ın 1989, is a platform for the German-speaking community. It is open to everyone who speaks German. Die Bruecke issues a monthly newsletter. Different gatherings, charities, information concerning everyday life, bi-national education, help with bureaucracy and immigration laws in Turkey are covered. Website, email info@ DNSI - The Dutch School of Istanbul We provide Dutch language and cultural lessons to students aged between three and 16 with at least one parent with Dutch nationality. We also provide lessons to students aged three to 13, who would like to learn Dutch as a foreign language. We also offer a oneweek Dutch summer school. Please check our website or email Fransız Fakirhanesi – Little Sisters of the Poor Email Mother Mary or phone 0212 296 4608. Friends of India Association (FOIA) The Friends of India Association (FOIA) aims to connect Indians in Istanbul through social events. Our aim is to keep the spirit of India and Indian culture alive by organising festivals and activities. If you would like to know more, email any of the following: Jugnu Saglik:, Diya: We are also on Facebook as Istanbul Indian community (FOIA). Girl Scouts The Girl Scouts is dedicated to helping girls everywhere build character and gain skills for success. İn a nurturing environment, and in with committed volunteers, girls develop strong values, leadership skills, social conscience and conviction about their own potential and self-worth. Girls aged fıve and up are welcome. Email Kat Bekham or phone 054 2300 24 92. InterNations InterNations is an organisation where globally minded people have the opportunity to network and exchange valuable tips and topics regarding expatriate subjects. We organise events and provide opportunities for our members to meet and network twice a month. For further information please see our website


International Women’s Bible Study This group meets Tuesdays from 10am until 12.30pm. Contact Vicki Günay on 0532 314 1134.

Besiktas (directions available at www. Players of all ages (17+) and all levels of fitness are welcome.

Istanbul Accueil Welcomes French speaking newcomers in Istanbul. We publish a weekly newsletter listing many events and activities. All French-speaking people are welcome! Email istaccueil@ or visit our website www.

Mahjong Club Our Mahjong group meets every Monday at 10.30am in each others’ home where we are served a light lunch. We usually finish by 4pm

iTeam You are invited to the Expat Football Community. We are amateurs who enjoy playing and learning football. Age, skills and experience do not matter. All that matters is that you wish to play. We offer special training just for ladies and co-ed matches with men. We use Turkish (our Coach, Mehmet Sabri is Turkish). In Europe, Şişli - Ferikoy every Monday from 20:00 till 22:00. On Asian side - in Bostanci on Thursdays, from 20:00 till 21:00. If you have any questions, please contact us on our FB Page

IWI Tennis Group If you enjoy playing tennis please join our group. The IWI Tennis Group takes place at Istanbul Tennis Academy (ISTA) in Istinye. We welcome all players from beginners to advanced. Please contact Kenan Dundar at 0535 390 4983 or email You can also contact IWI Sports Events Coordinator Olga at 0531 945 2588 or email Luso Brasileiro Portuguese speaking group. Contact Isabel Ponte Gulpan 0212 669 4943 or 0532 274 1653. Istanbul International Rugby Center Founded in 2007, this is the only Rugby Club in Istanbul with coaching for children and teenagers. Turkish, English, French and Spanish all spoken. The club has coached over 400 international children aged fıve to 16. Rugby training is every Saturday 12.30 - 2pm at Dilikitaş Sport Club in Beşiktaş. Contact Club President Gülseren Gomez or Technical Director Mr Luis Gomez on 0538 642 4513 or see our website: Istanbul Ottomans Rugby Football Club We practise every Saturday afternoon between 4pm and 6pm, except on days when there are official fixtures, at the Dikilitaş Spor Kulübü in

Mahjong is a Chinese game played in different ways, but our group plays the international way. It is a brick game, quite easy to learn. Previous experience is not required, and we will teach you how to play. If you are interested please contact Tuya Cooke: 05385551528;

NVI – Dutch speaking people of Istanbul The Dutch Club Istanbul aıms to keep typical Dutch festivities alive, for people who have a connection to Holland, who like to meet up with Dutch-speaking people. For further information check our website ( or contact Lisette Ruygrok at secretariaat@ PAWI The Professional American Women of Istanbul is a network of American/ Canadian women and spouses of Americans/Canadians living in Istanbul. PAWI strives to empower and support members by promoting personal and professional growth. Each monthly PAWI meeting features a guest speaker, and locations alternate between the European and Asian sides. Contact or visit Photography Club The photo club is a group of international members whose skill levels vary from very basic to semiprofessional – but who all share the desire to capture the world in a photograph and to explore Istanbul while doing so. The group discussion includes all current event information, bi-weekly photo challenges, tips and tricks, and general photography topics. Contact: Katherıne Baker at IWI Rollerblading Biking Group Asian-side meetup. Bikes can be rented, bring your own rollerblades. Contact Gabriele Sailer for more information IWI Running Group The programme will run on a rolling basis, with membership renewable every month. If members need to travel, members may rejoin the group upon return. New members can join anytime.

Thursdays at 7pm, Sundays at 8am Caddebostan sahil. 120 USD per month. Contact Marina Khonina at or 0534 9828307

Speech Bubbles Speech Bubbles Theatre is a drama group established in 1988 aiming to perform high-quality English language musical theatre and donating proceeds to charities supporting children and education. Speech Bubbles is composed of amateur and professional dancers, singers and musicians from the international community. We also run a part-time school of performing arts for young people over 10 years of age and adults for three hours on Saturday mornings. Email tom@speechbubbles. org or South Africans in Istanbul Please contact if you are interested in forming an informal group of expatriate South Africans. SWEA (Swedish Women Educational Association) SWEA is a world-wide network for Swedish-speaking women with a chapter in Istanbul. We organise events and activities and welcome everyone who speaks Swedish. If you would like to know more, please contact istanbul@ Support Group for Parents of Children with Special Needs Looking for the support of other parents of children with special needs and additional resources for your child? Please contact Carol Crous for more information on 0533 730 7148 or 0212 223 9700. Toastmasters International – Istanbul Chapter The English speaking Istanbul Toastmasters Club is the first Istanbul branch of Toastmasters International, an organisation that helps its members improve their communication and leadership skills in a supportive environment. ITM meets on the first and third Wednesday of each month from 7.30pm to 9.30pm at the Gönen Hotel in Taksim. Guests are welcome to attend two meetings free of charge. Email or

Union Church of Istanbul We are an international, interdenominational church that offers services in English. Please visit for more information.



Long-term rental available August 2017. Semi-detached, two-level furnished house in central Istanbul, close to public transport. Features spacious living room, dining room with garden entrance, double bedroom, a garret attic double bedroom and a single bedroom. Front and rear gardens and driveway parking for one car. Ganime Donmez +9005322577608.


I give private piano lessons starting 4 years old. Our lessons can be in English or Turkish. I live in Ortakoy/Ulus area. Lessons can take place in my house as well as in the student’s house. I organise a piano recital at the end of the school year. I can prepare kids for London College of Music exams where they receive an internationally recognised certificate. Hope to meet you! Sandra 0532 422 0413


I can come to your house... Pregnancy massage, cellulite massage, relaxing massage, full body massage, osho rebalancing, massage or wax. Call me for more information: Hatice Yildrim Tirli 0532 260 4118 or 0542 434 1932.


Selin is an IWI Member, TV-Personality and public figure She can help you with: relationship problems, break-ups, divorce, helping to find the ideal spouse, family issues, jealousy, dealing with difficult relatives, getting your kids to listen. Call to make an appointment/or order her book: 0212 257 3617


PRIVATE AND CONVERSATIONAL For ladies and men, group or one to one lessons, at your home or workplace, from an experienced native teacher fluent in English and French. Adjustable to your needs and time schedule. Please call 0530 310 21 32 or email for full information.


Information technology coach ( Apple and Social Media) - Strategy consulting of digital information, social media strategy, optimization of communication - Consulting and training on Apple computers - Repair, maintain, installation, for individual and society - Installation Apple and PC compatible networks - Community management and social media strategy specialist Please call : 05394838469 Mail:


With 15 years’ experience in expat living, I am ready to assist you during your transition period. I am a certified Life Coach, Intercultural Trainer and MBTI Specialist. I speak German and English fluently. I would be happy to offer a 20% discount to IWI members. Ozlem Hersek: 0532 616 5045


Dilek & Ozgun are two yoga instructors who have started weekly yoga classes in their home studio. The studio is a 5-7 minute walk from the Şişli Metro. Please make a reservation as it is limited to 8-10 participants maximum. Classes are suitable for every level of practitioner. IWI members receive a 25% discount. Contact them through Facebook at /DilekOzgunYoga, email: dilekozgunyoga@gmail. com or text 0530 394 6431.


Asya Tömer in Mecidiyeköy offers a 10% discount to the IWI members and their direct families for general Turkish courses, evening course and Turkish summer course program (July-August 2017). Members only have to show their membership card to get the discount. More information:, facebook (Asya Tomer) or Phone: 0553 799 1713.


EKRIA is a timeless, contemporary jewellery brand for men and women. The future is its endless inspiration. It rejects all notion of unnecessary flourishes, finding the ultimate sophistication in subtle design where strength is key. With a minimalist approach, it offers a universal take on luxury accessories, defined through a capability of constantly edging ahead of the curve. London-based EKRIA was founded in 2013 by Esra Karadeniz, a designer from Turkey with a keen eye and unstoppable talent. EKRIA consists of one eternal collection, The Timeless Collection, serving as a central point for the two additional seasonal collections. Each EKRIA piece is 1 Micron Gold Plated Sterling Silver, crafted with laser cut precision. To benefit from a 40£ equivalent voucher on any of your purchase, enter the EKRIAFORIWI code on Come to visit us at the showroom in Istanbul: Vali KonağıCad/Kodaman Sk no: 9, Mim Plaza, A Blok, 5th floor, office 83, Nişantaşı, Istanbul. Phone: +90 212 230 91 10


IWI PARTNER OFFERS In order to take advantage of these offers, you must show your IWI membership card HILTON ISTANBUL BOSPHORUS SPECIAL OFFERS

Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus, Turkey’s first 5-star International hotel, is pleased to offer a 15% special discount to IWI members for several services at their hotel, including breakfast, lunch and dinner at one of their many restaurants; High Tea at the Lobby Lounge; and on their spa treatments. They also offer different family-friendly packages with special access to children’s pools and playgrounds. For IWI members, they can also organise special weekend children’s activities in the hotel. For more information or a reservation, you may call 0090 212 315 6000 or email


Located in the heart of Etiler, Concept Languages is offering free Turkish conversation classes to any IWI member presenting their card. Classes will take place twice a month between 14:30-15:30. For information and reservations, please contact: Başak Toksoy 0212 351 1840 or


Time Out Istanbul in English is offering a 25% discount on subscriptions for IWI members. Make Time Out your monthly go-to guide for the city. Find out how you may get your free issue by contacting: Omer Karanis,


Momma Zen & Annezen is a centre which specialises in yoga, massage and aromatherapy. We offer many types of services, classes and workshops for all women, especially expectant mothers, babies and children. We also offer a doula service and breastfeeding workshops, as well as massage and yoga for non-pregnant women. Momma Zen also teaches HypnoBirthing classes in English and runs workshops on making natural skincare products. For IWI members we are pleased to offer a 20% discount on the full price of prenatal yoga and birthing classes, workshops, massages and mother-baby yoga classes. Momma Zen/ Annezen, Kordon Yolu Sokak 8/1, Kordon Apt, Kalamiş, Istanbul. Tel: 0216 345 0866. or


Located in Çengelköy - Anatolian Side. We offer IWI members a 25% discount on all treatments. Address: Albay Hüsamettin Ertürk Cad. No: 4 D: 23, Çengelköy-Üsküdar. Mobile: 0536 357 9808. Email: bhtgoff@


Swiss Centerdent Dental Clinic is located in Zorlu Center Shopping Mall, Istanbul and Sihlcity Shopping Mall Zürich, Switzerland. Our experienced team of specialists offers you Swiss excellence and standards in dental health care. Our clinic offers the entire spectrum of dentistry, with the use of state of the art technology. We strive to create a practice climate that is beneficial, soothing and inviting. Our services: Implantology, Orthodontics, Paediatric Dentristry, Prostethics and much more: We offer a 20% discount on all services for IWI members. Swiss CENTERDENT, Zorlu Center, Teras Evler, T0, Daire 35, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, 0212 353 6383


Istanbul University Language Center is a department of Istanbul University offering foreign languages education (English, French, German, Russian, Arabic, Spanish, Greek, Portuguese etc.) in addition to Turkish as a Foreign Language, in the light of up-todate developments in education and with the help of the academic background of Istanbul University. IULC is offering a discount on language lessons to members of IWI. For more information, visit: or call: 0212 243 6729.


Indulge in a day of relaxation and pampering at our luxury spa. We offer a wide range of massage and beauty treatments, guaranteed to refresh and renew you. IWI members receive a 20% discount. Appointments are required, Phone: 0212 375 0100 ext. 3695


Have you been looking for somewhere to have a relaxing and holistic facial? Try the Skincare Specialists at Shandra Spa, Bebek. Friendly, experienced and results-oriented. For more details and to book an appointment visit: IWI members receive 20% discount on treatments and 10% discount on products.


British salon owner, Ann Marie Sabuncu is offering IWI members a 15% discount on all treatments and package programs. Chill Out Spa is a small boutique spa using quality products from Decleor and the latest in technology. LPG body treatments and reflexology are just some of the treatments available. For more information, please contact Ann Marie at 0212 231 1159.


The established PLUS SIZE BRAND for Women in Turkey since 1985 – C.C.C. is happy to offer a special 10% discount on all purchases by IWI Members. The discount is valid in the C.C.C. Shops in Kadıköy, Profilo AVM and Bağdat Caddesi. Please check our website for our new collection: C.C.C. Kadıköy: Osmanağa Mah. Süleymanpaşa Sk. No:5, Kadıköy, Phone: 0216 450 5939, C.C.C. Profilo AVM: B Kapısı Girişi Zemin Kat No:04 Mecidiyeköy, Phone: 0212 212 5752, C.C.C. Saskinbakkal: Bağdat Caddesi No: 372 Suadiye, Phone: 0216 411 7596


For kids and adults. Located in Istanbul, we specialize in coaching all skill levels. We’ve got you covered. Our classes focus on rapid development while being affordable and fun. We offer a 20% discount to IWI members. Mert Ozgenc: Certified tennis trainer with more than 12 years coaching experience. Mobile: 0532 602 3883, Email:


Fotini Cafe is offering IWI Members a 10% discount. Francalacı cad. 26/1, Arnavutköy/Istanbul.Tel: 0533 093 99 92: www.


Ada Suites believes that each guest has unique needs and expectations, and we know our hospitality will make you feel special. Located in the heart of Nişantaşı, you are minutes away from the hippest luxury shopping in İstanbul, and the best restaurants and cafes in the city. Ada Suites is also walking distance from major health centers like American Hospital and Acıbadem Hospital. We are happy to offer a 20% discount to IWI Members, and wish you a peaceful stay (Code number is IWIADA20).

Make Wednesday night jazz night at Summit Bar & Terrace at the at Conrad Istanbul Bosphorus. Savour the smooth sounds, trio performances and breath-taking views of the Bosphorus every Wednesday between 8:30 pm and 11:30 pm. IWI Members receive a 15% discount for Wednesday Vibes until May 31, 2017. For further information or a reservation, you may call 0090 212 310 2525 or email


IWI POLICIES Membership Directory Membership information is only available online in the members only area of the website at present, but depending on sponsorship availability, may again be printed in the future as it was in the past. Whether online or in print, any and all member information is provided to IWI members in strictest confidentiality. Provision of member information to third parties contravenes IWI policy


Membership is open to all women who hold a Non-Turkish passport. For application details, please visit our website Membership registration is also available at our Newcomers meetings, held each month on both the European and Asian sides. Please refer to the Newcomers page in this Lale magazine for details of timing and location. Changing Address? Don’t forget to give us your new address (postal and/or e-mail) to avoid delays to the delivery of Lale magazine or for up-to-date IWI member information. Contact our Membership Coordinator by e-mail at

If your Lale magazine doesn’t arrive, please contact the Membership Coordinator


To place an advertisement please contact us at Advertisements must be confirmed through signed contract before any payment is accepted. Classified ads: Restricted to 50 words. Member cost: 1-3 FREE in our online publications (Non-Commercial Ads) Non-Member cost: $60 plus 18% VAT. All advertising costs are payable by bank transfer. No cash payments accepted. A copy of the payment transfer (dekont) should be sent via email: Only paid advertisements can be included in Lale.

DISCLAIMER Lale Content The IWI as an organisation and the IWI Board members act within the laws of Turkey pertaining to publishing but they do not accept any liability regarding the accuracy or content of the contributions supplied by our advertisers or members’ articles. In order to comply with these laws or publishing standards the IWI reserve the right to reject or edit any submission to Lale. Furthermore, the IWI does not accept any responsibility for any of the services rendered by any of our advertisers. Programmes Cancellation of a programme reservation after the deadline remains fully payable. Please refer to our website for up to date details, last minute additions or programme changes. The IWI reserves the right to cancel programmes due to insufficient numbers. You are responsible for both you and your child’s safety and the IWI cannot accept responsibility for injury or extra cost incurred during any activity organised by the IWI, or advertised in Lale.


Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.