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the jacket - the creation processproduct development

1


2


-technical specification packfront view back view details non colour/colour- options technical drawing pantone reference/colour balance /fabric samples fabrics and trimmings

4 5 6 7 8 10 11

-toile development and experimentation-

12

-production management reportthe final in motion

20 22

-master pattern-final patterns (envelope)-

3


Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12

Factory: CR

Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1

Pattern: J-001

margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3

View: front 11.5cm

8cm 1,5cm inner draw cord channel 8cm 6cm

19cm

7cm from Front Neck Drop

5cm length dart

1,5 cm Welt pocket 15cm length

9cm length welt pocket

2cm from CF 24.5cm 10cm 12.5cm Ribbing cuff 17cm 4cm visible hand warmer

5cm 7cm Ribbing band

67cm 2 ways open zip No. 6 on CF

Stitch Type Cover stitch

Used section -see drawing-

Main Materials Schoeller WB-400

Sub Material

5.5cm

Thread Colour matching colour

Item No. 5807-299/74960

Used section Main body

Item No.

Ribbing

Used section

Reflective Pipping

Waist band, cuffs, hand warmers Arms (back)

2 ways open zip No. 6

CF

Plastic zips

Pockets

press fasteners

hood- collar

Item No.

Aditional Draw cord Reflective strap

Notes

2cm Zipped Welt pocket

Used section Inner Hood CB, Chest pocket

Size Chest (at armhole lower point) Waist Shoulder to shoulder (back) Front Lenght (without collar) Centre Back Lenght Front Arm Hole Sleeve Length (from crown) Cuff Opening Hood Hight at CF Hood Depth Stand Collar

114cm 88cm 47cm 61.5cm 76cm 27cm 67cm 29cm 35cm 21cm 5cm

Care Label Info Schoeller WB-400:

40

Schoeller WB-400 properties: . 4 ways stretch . water repellent . breathable . wind repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling

4

f

w


Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12

Factory: CR

Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1

Pattern: J-001

margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3

View: back

5 panels hood

Twin Needle at collar

7cm 4cm

5cm length dart

Box Pleat 35cm openning

16 cm Reflective strap

13cm

Back pocket: 17cm openning with zip

Stitch Type Cover stitch

Used section -see drawing-

Main Materials Schoeller WB-400

Sub Material

Thread Colour matching colour

Item No. 5807-299/74960

Used section Main body

Item No.

Ribbing

Used section

Reflective Pipping

Waist band, cuffs, hand warmers Arms (back)

2 ways open zip No. 6

CF

Plastic zips

Pockets

press fasteners

hood- collar

Item No.

Aditional Draw cord Reflective strap

Notes

Used section Inner Hood CB, Chest pocket

Size Chest (at armhole lower point) Waist Shoulder to shoulder (back) Front Lenght (without collar) Centre Back Lenght Front Arm Hole Sleeve Length (from crown) Cuff Opening Hood Hight at CF Hood Depth Stand Collar

5

88cm 47cm 61.5cm 76cm 27cm 67cm 29cm 35cm 21cm 5cm

Care Label Info Schoeller WB-400:

40

Schoeller WB-400 properties: . 4 ways stretch . water repellent . breathable . wind repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling

114cm

f

w


Brand: Vertical

Factory: CR

Style No: 001

Season: A/W 12

Style Name: Masc jack o1

Pattern: J-001

margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3

View: Hood and Collar removable system

1,5cm inner draw cord channel

Reflective Pipping

press fasteners

Hood attatches to collar through metallic

Twin Needle

6


Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12

Factory: CR

Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1

View: n/c, colour ways

7

Pattern: J-001

margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3


Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12

Factory: CR

Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1

Pattern: J-001

margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3

View: technicalities- front

Reflective piping

Detachable hood

Drawcord adjustable hood High protective collar zip guard

2 ways opening CF zip

Zipped chest pocket with headphones’ internal access system.

Articulated elbows

Zipped pocket on inner sleevecuff for small essentials

Front zipped pockets

Hand warmers with thumb opening

Schoeller WB-400 properties: . 4 ways stretch . water repellent . breathable . wind repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling

8


Brand: Vertical

Factory: CR

Style No: 001

Season: A/W 12

Style Name: Masc jack o1

Pattern: J-001

margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3

View: technicalities- back

Detachable hood

structured fit Box pleat for freedom of movement

Reflective piping for easy recognition on cycling posture

Articulated elbows

Reachable zipped back pocket

Reflective stripe

Longer back for comfort on the bike

Schoeller WB-400 properties: . 4 ways stretch . water repellent . breathable . wind repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling

9


Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12

Factory: CR

Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1

Pattern: J-001

margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3

View: pantone reference- colour balance - fabric samples

a

b

c

d

e

-Pantone reference- a: 4985c/ b: 7503c/ c: 430c/ d: black c/ e: 7503c/ f: 411c

-fabric samples10

f


Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12

Factory: CR

Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1

margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3

View: fabrics and trimmings

a

h e

d f

g

c

k

i

b

j

a- Schoeller WB-400 b- linning c- linning d- Ribbing e- 2 ways open zip No. 6 f- Brown plastic zip g- Red plastic zip h- press fasteners i- Reflective strap j- Draw cord with stopper k- Reflective Pipping 11

Pattern: J-001


-toile development and experimentation-

12


the evolution step by step

13


the jacket- modifications

14


analysis: existing cycling performance jacket

the details . cycling features -reflective line on the back -across back and arms for visibility when cycling- shape- longer back for protection-reflective detail on collar-Ventilation openings on back- removable hood with reflective details- hood’s adaptability system: poppers elastic to modify face shape- inner pocket with headphone system for accessibility.

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1- the sleeve

Engineering the sleeve: -4 darts on elbow line for articulation and shape Hand warmers and cuff: started as a 5 pieces sleeve where the hand warmer was locked with the lining. It was developed to a 3 pieces sleeve with hand warmer coming from the cuff joining line. This modification does not compromise the lining behavior.

2- the shape

Noticed: box pleat on the back is essential to allow movement during cycling body posture.

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3- the details

Applying the pockets and experimenting with pockets sizes and types In the first design – draft- the jacket has front envelope pocketsIt was noticed that these elements changed the balance of the front jacket. Fully zipped welt pocket were applied to the design maintaining the balance of the elements on the overall garment

4- the balance

Re-shaping the collar. Modifying the toile’s size and angle based on existing products characteristics.

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5- the pockets

Box pleat on CB should have a security top stitch in both sides - beginning and end- to control the pleat’s opening and to avoid the box pleats’ back layer to get out of place.

6- the hood

Engineering the hood for maximum comfort for cycling performance

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7- final toile

Moving zip guard and facing to keep verticality on CF line.

... in motion

Fitting- confirming shape, size, pockets (sizes, place and reach ability), box pleat opening, longer back and hood for comfort during cycling body posture

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8- the prototype production management report This stage had the advantage of having assistance from a college’s Technician. After having everything cut, organized and ready for production, the technician collaborated during the completion of the product. The process lasted two and a half days and the finalized product was beautifully made. As the final toile and technical drawings were clear due to previous intensive experimentation, the jackets’ manufacture process was straightforward and few decisions had to be taken. It was noticed that the best system to be applied to the chest pocket with internal opening for headphones was to open a bottom hole locking the lining and the pocket bag together. This system would connect the pocket bag with the inner jacket through a small jet pocket placed on the jacket’s inner facing. The technicians’ experience and ability contributed to develop and finalize this important and elaborated stage of the garment with no delay. New ways to connect layers were noticed during this highly collaborative experience. The experience of the stage: working with technicians is important for the effectiveness of the product.

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9- final in motion

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product develpment- the jacket  

the creation process

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