Seeing you through the next century: Manero ChronoPerpetual.
Perpetual calendar, every possible date complication, ďŹ‚yback chronograph function and tachymeter scale â€“ the complexity and functionality of the Manero ChronoPerpetual are hard to match. An impressive timepiece, whose date will require no correction until the year 2100, when the Gregorian calendar calls for the omission of a leap year. www.carl-f-bucherer.com
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Publisher : Publiscope Publishing Director : Grégory Ayoun Editor in Chief : Laure Delvigo Art Director : Yvan Babillon Cinema : Jean-Pascal Grosso Beauty : Fiona Ayoun Fashion : Yvo Deprelle, Karine Martins, Daud Widjaja Lifestyle : Vincent Mazoué, Léa Borie Correspondant US : Frank Rousseau Art &Culture : Nicolas Berger Jewellery : Laure Delvigo People : Eleonore Menile Contributing Photographers : Thibault Breton, Sandra Fourqui, Ron Contarsy & Seth Karecha Traduction : Samantha King Printing : Brailly Publisher : Publiscope Managing Director : Christian-Jules Ayoun Assistant Director : Camille Sejallon Advertising and Editorial Offices : EUROPE BLUSH Dream 4, rue de Genève case postale 390 - 1225 CHÊNE-BOURG GENÈVE SUISSE Tel : 00 41 79 872 75 22 FRANCE Chemin des Cuers - BP65 - 69132 Ecully cedex. Tel : 00 33 4 78 24 22 73 - Fax : 00 33 4 78 24 56 18 email@example.com
MIDDLE EAST Dubaï UAE USA USA P.O Box 398984 Miami Beach, FL 33239 SOUTH AFRICA / MAURITIUS ISLAND Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa Wolmar, Mauritius Tel : (230) 403 1500 - Fax : (230) 453 5555 Diffusion : K.D. - 14, rue des messageries 75010 Paris Tel : 0033 (0) 1 42 46 02 20 - Fax : 0033 (0) 1 42 46 10 08 www.kdpresse.com - firstname.lastname@example.org Distribution Export: Pineapple Media Publiscope - TechnoPark- Chemin des Cuers - BP65 - 69132 Ecully cedex BLUSH Dream is diffused in Paris, Monaco, Cannes, Geneva, New-York, London, Dubaï, Jeddah, Doha, Hong-kong, Taïwan, Seoul, Kuala Lumpur, Melbourne, Miami, Las Vegas and Los Angeles. Special thanks to Sanjiv Ramdanee, Eric Molle, Jérôme Rigaud and Véronique Babet. BLUSH Dream is published by Publiscope. BLUSH Dream declines responsibility for any unpublished texts, illustrations or photos it receives. Reproduction of texts, drawings and pictures published in this magazine remains the property of Blush Dream, owned by Publiscope, which reserves the right of reproduction and translation in the whole world. Publiscope accepts no responsibility for the published documents. ISSN in progress. Dépôt légal à parution.
Credit Cover : Sandra Fourqui
« Pierre Jaquet Droz fait œuvre de pionnier et installe en 1784 la première Manufacture horlogère jamais établie à Genève. »
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table of contents
P 24 The Maradiva, An Indian Ocean pearl. Nestled between palm trees, sandy beaches and lush gardens, this little piece of Heaven on earth created by the Ramdanee family is full of appeal. P 32 Sanjiv Ramdanee, One step ahead. Sanjiv Ramdanee, crowned with success, is carrying on the family business by developing the Maradiva Hotel complex of which he is Executive Director. Roll tape. P 36 The Scent Of Travel. An Encounter With Blaise Mautin P 40
P 42 Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger. From the Neroli classics to an original twist. P 44
The tale of a fairy is…
P 46 Diane Kruger. Unfiltered Blonde. P 48 Charlize Theron. A meeting with a radiant being whom the word star suits so well. P 52 Lana Del Rey’s. Admired or criticised, Lana Del Rey leaves no-one indifferent. P 54 Saint Laurent Forever! What better time to look back on a legendary name that has been revolutionising women’s wardrobes since 1955? The story of YSL. P 56 "Artists, Lovers, Decadence"By Jitrois. For this season, long-time collaborator Rankin turns his lens upon four mischievous heroes at sophisticated play. P 58
ups and downs.
P 62 François-Paul JOURNE. A meeting with a fascinated and fascinating character! P 64 Hublot and A story of rock ‘n’ love!
P 66 Fabergé,Les Saisons Russes. The new high jewellery collection by Fabergé evoking the rhythms of the Russian seasons. P 68 Vhernier, Bejewelled temptation. Stones, sparkles and the glint of metal – welcome to the Garden of Eden! P 70 Freddy Tschumi, Gentleman watchmaker. Founder of the luxury watchmakers TF Est. 1968, Freddy Tschumi has cleverly extended his passion for timepieces into a complete line of accessories for today’s man-about-town. And he told us all about it. P 72 Rémi Tessier. Design in its purest form
P 74 Sebastian Gem lover.
P 76 THE GILDED AGE By Ron Contarsy & Seth Karecha P 86 XX by Thibault Breton P 98 XX by SANDRA FOURQUI P 108 everybody wants to be holly wood Get ready for a dream trip in the heart of the city of Angels. P 114 Mauritius, Not just a pretty Everyone has their own idea of a dream holiday.
P 118 YU LOUNGE. The very best in world class facilities for those travelling either by private jets or commercial flights. P 120 Emirates Palace. The "must see" of the Middle East. P 124 Le Bar du Bristol, The final New top spot on the Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré.
P 126 Valerie Chandler, The key to your dreams. Not far from Brigit Bardot’s La Madrague, the lady with the key to many a dream let Blush in on a few of her secrets! P 128 Stéphane Benhamou, Sensitive We caught up with a man for whom time is not only money! P 130-132
P 134 All in the imagination. A most desirable art of living. P 136 Dalí or the brilliance Touring a Dalian labyrinth.
P 138 LindA Horn’s. Wonderful worlds. P 140 Maison Deyrolle. Home to the super natural! P 142 Impact Deco. And the dream comes true. P 144 FalL under the spell! Whether delightful or disturbing, raise a glass to the enchantment of Art in every form. Dream away! P 146
P 152-152 P 154
PEOPLE - backstages.
Villeret Collection Quantième Complet Demi-Savonnette
Complete calendar, half-hunter Patented under-lug correctors Secured calendar and moon-phases mechanism Ref. 6664-3642-55B
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Slow down and draw breath. It is on the west of the island that you can fully savour your stay, by setting down your suitcases in our five-star Maradiva. Our 65 suites, of 163 m2 each, nestle between exotic gardens and white sand to welcome Maradiva guests eager for a change of scene, to get away from it all and to find some peace and quiet. From your own personal haven of peace - the dĂŠcor shades of white and beige and equipped with the latest technology - you can enjoy your own private beach, soothed by the turquoise of the Indian Ocean, or let yourself be tempted by the superb pool in blue mosaic. Discover the chefâ€™s culinary delights in either of our two restaurants or in your villa and then try the kaleidoscopic cocktails on offer in our two bars. Or perhaps you want to try surfing, followed in the evening by a massage in the spa. This rare and secret address will render your stay on Mauritius truly enchanting. Welcome to your home.
Sanjiv Ramdanee Executive Director
The Maradiva An Indian Ocean pearl
auritius, an island made famous in the Jacques-Henri Bernardin de Saint-Pierre novel Paul and Virginie is bursting with wonders and the Maradiva is one of them. Nestled between palm trees, sandy beaches and lush gardens, this little piece of Heaven on earth created by the Ramdanee family is full of appeal. Both the location and the service make the Maradiva unique and set it apart from the impersonal hotels you may come across during your stay. The staff includes Russian Prime Minister Dimitry Medvedevâ€™s former chef and several faces that have arrived here via the Crillon and other celebrated Monte Carlo addresses. Hollywood stars are already regulars while many French celebrities come here to restore both mind and body. By Laure Delvigo
Lunch with a view at Coast2Coast terrace
lending beautifully into the Wolmar landscape on the west of the island, the Maradiva enjoys an exceptional setting surrounded by luxuriant vegetation, with the Indian Ocean stretching away as far as the eye can see. Here nature is treasured and at the Maradiva they tend it every day as if paying homage to the very best Earth has to offer. The hotel’s 65 villas are arranged in the heart of this fabulous countryside. The atmosphere is warm and the style colonial. A delicate blend of luxury and tradition, the Maradiva is an exceptional journey in itself; a place where the senses find harmony. Each villa, topped with sculpted wood, has been cleverly immersed in its surroundings to avoid overlooking. The layout draws heavily on an indooroutdoor design so that guests feel closer to nature. Large windows, a huge dressing room, a marble bathroom with Blaise Mautin products (the perfumer for Bristol Hotels among others), a shower opening onto the garden-patio and a private pool in anthracite; closer
to nature yes but without forgoing the luxury and spaciousness required for a dream stay. Between excursions you will doubtless love the beautiful spa which completes this magnificent luxury complex. Voted best 2010 spa in the world by the readers of Britain’s Sunday Times newspaper, this temple to well-being offers something of a spiritual retreat, enabling you to better appreciate the surrounding calm. Whatever you desire, you will emerge feeling renewed, like a breath of fresh air. You can explore a wonderful Indian ritual of your choice or a purifying treatment such as Ayurveda or Shodhana or other types of yoga to help you rebalance. The spa is big enough (1,200 m²) for you to feel unique and privileged. A yoga and meditation pavilion welcomes those in search of harmony and serenity while a doctor specialised in customised treatments is on hand for private consultations. In this way each guest is able to follow a suitable and regenerative therapy.
Spa Room with outdoor space
Maradiva Spa - Rose petal bath
Cilantro Dining room
While some relax at the spa, sportier guests delight in the Boat House located on Maradiva’s beach where they can try their hand at kitesurfing, catamaran sailing, diving, swimming with dolphins and much more. We recommend the catamaran trip to the nearby Bénitier Island. In addition, the sports club and gym are fitted with all the latest equipment. Aided by experienced coaches, you can keep up with your cardio and body-building routines at the Maradiva, while a Thai boxing champion is on hand to coach those who feel like trying something new!
The Maradiva makes it a point of honour to offer the best service possible to guests and this is evident too when trying the delicious cuisine bursting with flavour just a couple of steps from the hotel’s botanical gardens. In charge is the young and likeable Jérôme Rigaud, head chef at the Kremlin when Medvedev was Russia’s president. Rigaud has brought the passion for excellence and taste he learned at the Balthus and the famous Trois Gros restaurant to the Maradiva. Under his leadership, the Cilantro and the Coast2Coast delight even the most demanding diners.
Beachfront Luxury Suite Villa
Luxury Suite Villa - Bedroom
With a panoramic view of the ocean, the Coast2Coast offers a chance to discover the produce of the island and both Mauritian and international flavours. Food-lovers with swoon over the succulent Carry and other the delicious fish caught that very morning while the delicious cheeseburger made with Argentinean beef will leave children speechless. Meanwhile the Cilantro spices things up a little. With elegance and discretion, the restaurant reveals all the finesse of the new Indian and pan-Asian cuisine. The exquisite spot offers an original and refined menu, completed by a selection of international fine wines. Close by, the Teppanyaki bar run by a sushi master offers the chance to enjoy some of the most spectacular Japanese dishes. We recommend a kaleidoscope cocktail day or night at the Breakers bar with its infinity pool â€“ a waking dream. So say goodbye to stress and gloom: head for the Maradiva for an unforgettable break.
Luxury Suite Villa - Bathroom
Inside is 125 years’ worth of dedication, safety knowledge and engineering. All the things you’ll forget about the moment you see it. The CLS. DISTRONIC PLUS can help keep you at a safe distance from the vehicle ahead. Sensuality and sense.
8988 ONE CALL - WWW.IFRAMAC.MU
Dinner under the white tent
- Limousine and helicopter transfer - Butler service - Wi-Fi access - Resident Air Mauritius bureau for flight check-ins World Travel Awards 2010 Mauritius Leading Resort Best Spa in the World by Sunday Times UK readers Recommended by the Conde Nast Johanssen 2010 guide World Travel Awards 2010 Worldâ€™s Leading Island Resort Recommended by Quintessentially Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa Wolmar, Flic en Flac, Mauritius Reservations: Tel. (230) 403 1500 Fax. (230) 453 5555 www.maradiva.com
Ramdanee One step ahead
A member of the Mauritian high society, Sanjiv Ramdanee, a young entrepreneur crowned with success, is carrying on the family business by developing the Maradiva Hotel complex of which he is Executive Director. Roll tape. By Eleonore Menile
hy did you choose to go into the field of luxury hotels?
My father is behind our development in the luxury hotel business. A pharmacist by trade, he launched the island’s first IATA travel agency in the 1960s before opening the first traditional Mauritian restaurant on the island in 1976, “La Bonne Marmite”. At the time, there was nowhere for people to go that served typically Mauritian dishes made from our vegetables, our produce. Its strategic location along with a fresh and colourful cuisine won over politicians and businessmen. There was the island’s first British pub, “The Rocking Boat Pub” on the same site and a hotel was the logical next step. So the Sands Resort & Spa was inaugurated in August 2001. Tell us about the Sands Resort & Spa In the mid 1980s we renovated “La Bonne Marmite” with the architect Maurice Giraud, who knew how to interpret the traditional spirit of Mauritius with teak for the stairs and ceramic tiles typical of a colonial house at the coffee bar. You see the Maurice Giraud touch at the Sands Resort & Spa, our first hotel. Built on a half-moon bay, the Sands Resort & Spa offered a view of the Morne Brabant Mountain with no over-looking. The beach was of fine sand and swimming was possible all day long which is not always the case in Mauritius. All this meant the spot had great potential for a luxury hotel. Despite numerous difficulties encountered in buying this outstanding site, we obtained a lease in 1999. We marked ourselves out as different from the start with spacious rooms and suites of at least 55m2. My father was always a visionary and a pioneer in exceeding oneself and going beyond the dream. So thanks to the great friendship and mutual respect between him and Maurice Giraud, we were able to ask the architect to draw up plans for the Sands Resort & Spa.
Then came the Maradiva, an exceptional hotel
Why the private villas concept?
In 2002-2003, the concept of villas with pools was unheard of on Mauritius. In 2003 we met Mr Tata, the owner of the Tata Group and the famous Taj Hotels. It took 14 months to build. Once again we worked with Maurice Giraud on this Taj Exotica project because of his ability to give every project a soul. After the 14 months of building, the Maradiva emerged with a unique “staggered villas” design. Staying at the Maradiva is like staying at a home from home. In 2009, we renamed the hotel “Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa” so as to take over its management. After four years under the banner of an international group, the takeover by the Ramdanee family enhanced the Mauritian spirit of the hotel.
We wanted to offer an outstanding product that was different from any other. Besides, the “private club” aspect was very popular with a certain type of clientele. And wherever they come from, all our clients are treated in the same manner. Little matter whether they come from the Middle East, Russia or Great Britain; our clients expect a tailor-made experience at the Maradiva. Two elements are important to us: space and time. There are no time constraints. For example, if you want to order breakfast at 2 in the afternoon or lobster at 8 in the morning, it’s not going to cause an international incident!
It is true that it is difficult for big groups to adapt! We try to explain this to our partners. Some clients stay at the Maradiva for two months so you can imagine they expect something other than the “standard service”. At the moment we have clients who are here for 17 days simply for the spa and the yoga. Is your clientele mostly European or do your clients come from emerging countries such as Russia and China? Our clientele is currently mainly European and Russian. Thanks to our representative in Russia, and our various partners, Russians have been coming here for the last few years and they adore it. Also our chef Jérôme Rigaud is a plus for the Maradiva regarding the Russian market as he used to work at the Kremlin for then President Medvedev. Switzerland is in third place where most of the clients find out about us through word of mouth but we also have the backing of some partners there. Then comes the Middle East followed by South Korea ahead of China with where we have had contacts for two years. How does the Maradiva adapt to this multicultural clientele? On Mauritius we grew up with all communities. We know the customs, the cuisine, the celebrations. Once you have already assimilated that, it is easy and natural. Our clients are like our friends. In addition, our representative in Shanghai is of Mauritian origin and his father is Chinese. We are very close friends. People talk a lot about the Russians in France, especially in Courchevel. Does this sought after clientele have particular expectations of the Maradiva? Most book at the last minute and sometimes the hotel is full when they call! Last year we had seven private jets coming from Russia. We also celebrate the Russian New Year every year. The menus in our restaurants are translated into Russian and our recep-
tionist speaks Russian. So perhaps we have a certain added value on the Russian side.
You are partners with the famous Golden Globes in L.A. Can you tell us more about this?
You won the World Travel Award in 2010, were voted Best Luxury Hotel in Germany, are recommended by the latest Condé Nast Johanssen; what is your secret for maintaining this outstanding level?
We wanted to unite a spirit around Mauritius; make Hollywood directors want to come and film here because the landscape and the services are endless. There are wonderful beaches, mountains, Hindu temples in very Bollywood colours, pagodas and mosques side by side and there are also Ferrari, Aston Martin and Harley Davidson concessions as well as other top brands on Mauritius. And we have had the privilege of welcoming Hollywood VIPs.
We have a very good team. Recruiting is crucial. At the Maradiva we offer our staff the chance to grow. After three years of operating as the Maradiva, we are lucky to have the “right people” with autonomous managers such as Fabrice Collot, Managing Director and Eric Molle, Deputy Managing Director, who have worked the world over – at the Kempinski in Saint Petersburg and the Crillon in Paris. Furthermore, Francis Longeuve, our first manager, was manager of the Hôtel de Paris for seven years.
What are your next plans? Besides the construction of a few “Family” style villas on undeveloped land at the Maradiva, we want to improve our services. After the botanical gardens, we are going to create a wine cellar where our clients can come and discover rare wines and vintages.
CHINESE PORTRAIT If you were a painting? Just like Mauritius I would be a mix of many influences: Picasso, Klimt, Van Gogh. A collage where many small things make up a whole. If you were music? My mother is a soprano. My father is fond of classical Indian music. Our culture is open to different styles. I grew up among musical cousins. So it would be either classical, funk, jazz or Bollywood depending on the mood! If you were a book? Philosophy; I’m not very into fiction. I like to know why life is like it is, why we are here and where we are going. I try to understand nature, the human and the world. Hinduism expresses a collective of thoughts. If you were a scent? Light, sweet and lemony.
The Scent Of Travel
An Encounter With Blaise Mautin
he perfumer Blaise Mautin, already renowned for the made-to-measure scents he creates for his clients, is now going a step further by creating fragrances for hotels.. After working with the Bristol and the Park Hyatt in Paris, Blaise Mautin gave Blush an exclusive preview of his new olfactory line: Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa, a delicate, floral journey through Mauritius.
By Vincent MazouĂŠ.
How did your collaboration with Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa come about?
It is quite unusual to create a perfume for a place. How do you go about it?
I was contacted by the Executive Director, Sanjiv Ramdanee. Sanjeev knew my work well and was very keen on us doing something together. We were able to organise my trip out there very quickly. I knew the Reunion Island but not Mauritius. It was an extraordinary discovery! The welcome and the quality of service of the Maradiva with all it has to offer were quite simply exceptional.
I always work on the idea of memory whether it is a place or a person. The idea when wearing the fragrance is to say: "That scent, I discovered it in such a place, I was with so-and-so and what joy to have been there! " With the Maradiva, it's a way of prolonging the stay, of reliving a place and time; a day by the sea, a nap on the beach. It is a concentrate of memories in a little bottle.
What products are effectively obligatory when you create fragrances for hotels?
Is there one spot in the world that inspires you more than any other when it comes to olfactory ambiances?
In general I offer a turnkey service. It is better for the hotel to make one brand, one universe its own. So at the Maradiva you will find all the classic products: shampoo, conditioner, shower gel and body lotion. I also offer two soaps; one in a box available in the rooms and one on a rope if you prefer showering outside. I also created candles, ambience sprays and reed diffusers. The star product of the range is of course the Maradiva perfume. Could you describe it for us? It is an extremely dynamic perfume, very much about water and air. I wanted a really green, floral accord. What's interesting at the Maradiva is the work carried out in the gardens with the plants. There is also this green colour of the bottom of the swimming pools which are made from volcanic rock. It creates a very particular reflection in the water. The result is a scent that is quite sunny at the outset with Bergamot and lemon, and then evolves into a heart of pink jasmine which gives a richness and an elegance that finishes with a maritime note. I didn't want a too powerful signature but rather an ambiance that matched a stay at the Maradiva, intimate and discreet.
There are so many! Wherever I am I always try to interpret my universe in terms of scents and perfumes. Everything can evoke olfactory and fragrance interpretations. One of the spots that struck me the most was a traditional tea room in Kyoto in the middle of a bamboo forest where there was a temple. It was raining and I felt such intense emotion as I absorbed this smell of wet earth mixed with that of traditional Japanese tea. It's an unforgettable memory. Other than hotels, do you have clients who ask you for perfumes for even more unusual places? Absolutely. A yacht-owner recently asked me to create a fragrance for his boat! He want to offer his clients and friends a souvenir of their stay on board. Another, in Los Angeles, got me to create a perfume for the helicopter he uses every day to avoid the traffic jams. You could see these people as a little bizarre or superficial, but on the contrary they are very cultivated people, true connoisseurs. I also love my job as a perfumer because of these encounters that are so passionate and enriching from a creative view point.
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This cosy treatment provides serenity, smoothness, as well as all necessary elements to maintain the ideal moisture balance of the epidermis. With an exclusive anti-aging complex based on Coenzyme Q10 and polypeptids, and ﬁrming shea butter, to allow your skin to take the utmost advantage of your sleep. You will have a dazzling look in the morning ! FOR NORMAL TO DRY SKIN
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Benefit - So jet set!
Armani - Future Hit!
Benefit’s star products are brought together in this fun box set "She's so jetset". Mini mascara, lip gloss, blusher and eye-shadow for outrageously glamorous elegance, to slip into your luggage. But better be quick, this first class trip comes in a limited edition!
Giorgio Armani Cosmetics is launching a revolutionary mat lipstick: Lip Maestro is the first matt lipstick to combine intense shine with an impeccable matt texture for a sophisticated look worthy of a new generation seductress. It brightens up and fills the lips with its velvety colour.
37€ exclusive to Séphora and at www.sephora.fr
Nars - Ethnic-Chic Nars has an elegant choice of colours for a refined and sophisticated look. The ‘‘Rouge Tribal’’, a metallic burgundy lip gloss, deserves a special mention for its long-lasting and highly seductive colour. 25€ - 6 ml. Exclusive to SEPHORA and Au Bon Marché.
30€ On sale in France from January 13, 2013 at various outlets and at www.sephora.fr and www.armanibeauty.fr.
Ciaté - Caviar for my nails The growing British brand Ciaté, founded by Charlotte Knight, is attracting much attention with its unusual “Caviar” nail range. Its pearly tex-
ture enables you to create 3D nails! The so sexy Pussycat Dolls now swear by the Caviar manicure, inspired by the catwalks, as does the elegant Kate Winslet. The most audacious will love designing their own patterns for a very London style. Blush adores this and is straight off to Séphora to place an order! Available in three colour combinations: Black Pearls, Mother of Pearl and Rainbow. Exclusive to Séphora and at www.sephora.fr. Readers’ phone number: +33 (0) 892 70 70 70
YSL - “Make-up as a game”! Yves Saint Laurent really is getting us into the festive mood with its HOLIDAY LOOK collection – in fact you could say the intense and pearly colours will light up our sky!
The “Northern Lights” palette is like going on a journey with its fascinating hot and polar shades. Haute couture nails, stunning evening lashes, a pearly complexion, contrasting lips and a golden gloss: now you are dressed! And don’t forget the secret of expert Lloyd Simmonds: for him make-up is a game! Limited edition. From 21 €. On sale exclusively at the Espaces Beauté Yves Saint Laurent, via http://www.ysl-parfums.fr/ and at Yves Saint Laurent Conseil accredited perfumeries: + 33 (0) 1 49 64 82 00
By Fiona Ayoun
Yves Saint Laurent lover of women A declaration to the women of the world, an everlasting promise. Manifesto is a fragrance of absolute femininity, aimed at enchanting women who are passionate about love and the 1001 joys of life. She says “yes” to spontaneity, daring and originality. Jessica Châstain is her heroine and it is through her that each and every one will interpret an olfactory emotion. Manifesto subtly blends the mystery of Jasmine, the freshness of Lily-ofthe-Valley, the lightness of blackcurrant and the sensuality of vanilla to carry us off in a deep purple whirl. You will be swept off your feet! Eau de parfum - 30ml: 54€ - 50ml: 77 EUR - 90ml: 101€
Miss Gaga is driving us wild Atypical, daring, unpredictable, original of course and so surprising – the woman of a thousand faces is spreading her empire further with an eponymous perfume. LADY GAGA FAME is thus non-conformism personified, a new exalting and innovative form of eccentricity. The first surprise is its colour: black (don’t worry, it becomes transparent on application!). The “push-pull” technology of the bottle also astounds us while this ebony juice exudes a luxuriant essence of flowery fruit. It is a duel between a floral world and the dark side inspired by a devilishly naughty
streak: Deadly Nightshade. Hat’s off to Miss GAGA!
Eau de Parfum 100 ml / 70€ (Also available in 30 ml / 29€ - 50 ml / 39€) Exclusive to Séphora
of completeness. Ginger, red pepper, magnolia, Heliotrope, myrrh, musk and benzoin are the notes that make this delightful bottle dance.
By Kilian FORBIDDEN GAMES
Haute Couture ARMANI CRYSTAL EDITION
Forbidden Games is the incarnation of the quintessence of temptation, that which leads to total abandon. Created by perfumer Calice Becker for By Kilian, Forbidden Games opens with a fruit paste – apple, peach and plum – spiced with Laotian cinnamon. Then the perfume evolves with a luxuriantly floral heart – Rose from Turkey, Geranium from Egypt and Sambac Jasmine – before finishing with an enchantingly sugary note of Madagascar vanilla, Laotian honey and Opopanax. A fruit nectar forbidden to mere mortals. Giving in to temptation has never been so exciting.
Giorgio Armani wraps a generous garland of flowers around a traditional Cyprus note. A corolla of narcissus, Jasmine, rose petals, sandalwood and patchouli burst from this smart, black Art Deco bottle. The perfume of tuberose, fresh, delicate and heady, arises. It demonstrates the fragile balance between masculine and feminine, the designer’s powerful trademark. Carrying the demand for luxury through, Haute Couture, fine fragrances and the best crystal work are combined here to produce a unique, emblematic object of their know-how.
Olivier Durbano Olivier Durbano, talented designer of flower-jewellery, has been back at work. This time he draws on the Heliotrope or Bloodstone, for the eighth of his “stone poem jewels” fragrances. Heliotrope was used in magic for three centuries in ancient Babylon. Priests called on it to explain the oracles and keep enemies at bay. The Aztecs employed it to regulate blood flow. Today the Heliotrope is ground into a powder for use in medicines in parts of India. The number eight is universally known as the number of cosmic balance, a symbol
100 numbered pieces, available only from the Giorgio Armani boutique at Avenue Montaigne in Paris. Luxury box set with two 30ml refills: 5,000€
Oriental Dream LANCÔME - L’AUTRE ÔUD
It is decorated with the most symbolic image of the House of Lancôme: the door at 29 Rue du Faubourg St Honoré. L’Autre Ôud symbolises a corridor between tradition and a desire to be elsewhere, inspired by a trip to the Orient. Decorated with a fine jewellery version of an intriguing moucharaby, L’Autre Ôud presents Agarwood in a new light. An icon of this precious essence, the leathery, animal note is
wrapped in a profusion of rich and smooth roses. A perfect reflection of a subliminal Agarwood, a dream of opulence, of rarity and of mystery. Available from January 2013 at a selection of outlets and on www.lancome.fr Recommended price: 120€ for 75ml.
GUCCI - Guilty The ultimate object of desire, Gucci Guilty reveals a strikingly warm oriental floral fragrance with natural extracts of mandarin, pink pepper, lily, peach and patchouli, the distinctive trademark of Gucci perfumes which sends out an instant message of power and seduction. 75 ml. 90 €
Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme Just like its haute couture collection – the star of this season - Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme conjures the perfect synthesis of tradition and modernity. Sicilian by essence, this is a classic fragrance in which orange, green mandarin, Jasmine, Heliotrope, sandalwood and mallow notes are reborn. It is divinely incarnated by Laetitia Casta, the quintessential Dolce & Gabbana woman: sensual, passionate and maternal. The perfume personifies the style of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, revealing Mediterranean beauty in all its forms and contrasts. The entire Dolce & Gabbana spirit concentrated in one small bottle. By Léa Borie 41
Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger From the Neroli classics To an original twist
ollowing on from the huge success of its gorgeous Néroli Blanc range, Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger has sprung a new surprise by launching a collection of five precious fragrances: les Inédits. From elegant classics to contemporary excellence!
By Nicolas Berger
The origins of the bitter orange sound like something from a fairy tale. The tree can be traced back to southern China and is mentioned in the oldest writings on perfumery. During the Roman era, the bitter orange spread through all Mediterranean countries. As its blossom was a symbol of virginity, our ancestors made garlands of them for newly-weds and this tradition continues today in the Grasse region for those who get married when the trees are in blossom, in other words April and May. They say that in around 1680 the Princess of Nerola in Italy loved the scent so much she filled her bath with the flowers so as to perfume her body. She also used huge quantities of blossom to perfume her clothes, her gloves and the drapes of her Roman palace! The fashion soon caught on throughout Rome and it was at that point that the word “Neroli” began to be used for orange blossom. When Virginie and Antoine Roux founded their luxury perfume company in Provence, they could not but wish to pay homage to this very essence of the south. With the help of composer Jean-Claude Gigodot, they launched the delicate Néroli
Blanc range which includes an eau de Cologne, a perfume, an intense perfume (both available in solid perfume form to be applied directly to the skin) and even a scented candle – something for everyone! But not being ones to rest on their laurels, Virginie and Antoine have chosen to extend their olfactory universe even further by creating a line of exceptional scents entitled “Les Inédits”. In chic designer bottles these five perfumes will delight fans of unusual fragrances: Figue fruitée, Lavande ombrée, Jasmin rêvé, Tubéreuse rosée and Bergamote boisée (fig, lavender, Jasmine, tuberose and bergamot). The common thread running through the collection is a typically southern note, combined with other rare ingredients to ensure the end product is one of distinction and modernity. Bergamote boisée (woody bergamot) for example, begins with the fizzy freshness of grapefruit and bergamot, and continues its seduction with a mid-note of white flowers, magnified by cedar and rockrose. The ensemble is wonderfully rounded off with an exquisite base of musk, honey and patchouli. In short, five authentic elixirs to discover at Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger!
The tale of a fairy is…
...an integral part of the collective imagination. Fairies have come down through the ages,dazzling young and old with the same dream of a poetic and alternative reality. With a shake of their magic wand they take us up and away into a marvellous world! By Nicolas Berger
t a time when society is more and more electronic, where room for the imagination seems to be shrinking every day, one cannot help but notice that the supernatural is galloping back on the white charger of legends. Take for example the huge success of sagas like Harry Potter or Lord of the Rings. Fairies have been quick to make the most of this return to fashion and continue to enchant us. But who are these fascinating yet elusive creatures?
Tales of the past... Arising from popular belief and ancient mythology, from literature inspired by folklore and Celtic tales as well as ancient pagan gods, fairies are a creation of Western medieval times. Their roles were as varied as their representations. This is what the great 13th century novel, Lancelot of the Lake, had to say: “At the time, we called women who were knowledgeable in charms and enchantments fairies (...). The book of histories says they know the power of words and the properties of stones and herbs, thanks to which they have preserved their youth and beauty and have as many riches at their disposal as they wish.” We can see that in the thinking of the Middle Ages the fairy had absolutely nothing in common with the trite modern-day image. For example Viviane, the famous Lady in the Lake, did not hesitate in locking Merlin up in a tower "of neither walls nor iron”. As for Morgane le Fay, she invented the Valley of No Return, a place where she imprisoned unfaithful lovers! Often depicted as Femmes Fatales, they are seen as an extension of the nymphs and goddesses of antiquity. Knights in search of adventure came across these Venuses with strange powers in deep, dark forests but also in the castles they visited on their travels. The latter decades of the 19th century were particularly prolific regarding those with fairy powers, great or small. Victorian “fairy painting”, anchored firmly in romanticism, became 44
hugely fashionable in Britain, and fairies were also evident in the literary and theatrical culture of the time. Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night's Dream and The Tempest were a major influence. At the same time the Pre-Raphaelites also took to painting women of an effervescent beauty, appearing to come from another world, on both canvas and glass. The effect was evident in France too with the impact of Symbolism. Gustave Moreau – whose ambiguous characters would fascinate everyone from Salvador Dalí to Serge Gainsbourg – delighted in painting the Fairy with Griffons and ladies with unicorns. In the same vein, the dandy and mystic Joséphin Péladan wrote an essay with the provocative title: How to become a fairy (1893). It includes the following: “The fairy is a sister who helps and saves when she loves; or a muse who influences and inspires when she is loved.” At a time when splendour and fantasy were often intertwined, many women wanted to be considered fairies. Baroness Deslandes was one. A novelist in her spare time and a true aesthete, she created her own “Fairy Land”, a splendid residence where all was a harmony of whites, punctuated by mythical animals in bronze (some of which were later bought by Coco Chanel). In this never land the Baroness appeared without a corset, in long wraps of pale silk! A few years later, James Matthew Barrie created the character of Peter Pan and that of the jealous Tinker Bell. Reinterpreted by Walt Disney and other film makers, in 2010 the little fairy earned her place in cinema history by being awarded the 2418th star on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame.
... to ladies of the present After that quick panorama, one may wonder why these imaginary creatures still fascinate us so much today. Several authors including Alfred Maury, Sanford Schreiber and Walter Evans-Wentz, have undertaken in-depth research into the symbolism of fairies. Freud was the first to uncover the hidden
side of fairytales in his Interpretation of Dreams (1900), explaining they offered the child a way of thinking that corresponded with his representation of himself. The fairy is, therefore, the image of the child developing in a world of adults and capable of powers of transformation through imagination. Bruno Bettelheim offered a psychoanalytical version of fairytales in which he showed the fairy is either a positive (good fairy) or negative (bad fairy) representation of the mother. For Marie Louise von Franz, the main heir to Jung, the fairytale allegorises the process which enables the personality to build itself in a harmonious way. The young fairy is the incarnation of the most private and intuitive part of the woman, she who is still close to inner nature while for Jung, the character of the old fairy represents the archetypal Grandmother, a mythical projection of the feminine experience in all civilisations. That perhaps gives us a better understanding of the current impact of the enchantress! The worlds of fashion and luxury have certainly got the message, frequently drawing on this image of an almost excess of femininity. In 1940, Louis Arpels, a lover of the ballet, reproduced the gracefulness of the magical shape of dancers. From that point on the fairy was part of the fine jewellery heritage of Van Cleef & Arpels. In 2008 the brand took the logical step of following up with a perfume named Féerie. As for designer Lolita Lempicka, she creates a world full of princesses in sumptuous gowns, taking inspiration from the tales of Charles Perrault. In 1997 she brought out her first fragrance, Lolita Lempicka; the shape of the bottle was reminiscent of an apple and the advert included a pre-Raphaelite fairy. And in September a new advertising campaign by the talented Yoann Lemoine shows Elle Fanning skipping through a forest like a modernday Melusine! Because in the end, who better than these creatures of dreams to symbolise a fantastical world that will always start over?
DARE TO DREAM
Boatworld Office, Kapu Kai Complex, Royal Road, Grand-Baie, Mauritius - Tel: (+230) 234 4922 - Fax: (+230) 234 4743 Email: email@example.com - Website: www.legend-boats.com
Diane Kruger Unfiltered Blonde
he has just been a big hit alongside Dany Boon in Un Plan Parfait, one of the rare comedies in which this actress – whose Hitchcockian demeanour can be mistaken for coldness – has appeared. At 36, Diane Kruger has a screen career to be proud of, easily moving from her ex-husband, Guillaume Canet’s caustic Mon Idole to Quentin Tarantino’s Dantean Inglourious Basterds, while managing to stick by Nicolas Cage’s side in National Treasure. A profile of an actress who just keeps getting it right. By Jean-Pascal Grosso
he has been in turn a dancer, a model, a muse for Dolce & Gabbana, a student at the highly acclaimed Cours Florent, the wife of Guillaume Canet, an aspiring actress and is now one of the brightest stars whose shine has reached all the way to Hollywood. She may only be 36, but Diane Kruger, née Heidkrueger, seems to have lived several lives already. “If I chose to be an actress, a profession full of ups and downs; it is because I wanted to flee boredom in any form.” But as an adolescent, Kruger’s dreams were focused more on ballet dancing. She left her native Germany at the age of 13 to study at the prestigious Royal Ballet School in London. It was a dream come true for a young girl – until it was shattered by an accident. A serious knee injury ended her hopes of a career in dance. Although at the time she thought she would “die of despair”, Diane bounced back, signed up for modelling classes and within a few years her face – angular, feline and frosty – had designers the world over clamouring for her. Frosty, incidentally, is a word that seems to follow the artist around like a shadow; almost a curse. “It’s because of my upbringing,” Kruger explains. “I wasn’t to show too much emotion or my feelings.” And she adds: “It also helps protect you from people trying to chat you up and in my professional life it creates a distance which encourages people to think twice before just suggesting any old thing!” And then again, Diane Kruger also has character. She is a woman who does not hide her melancholy or nostalgia for those “first times” she will never live again, who dreams of a family and children but refuses to imagine herself “sitting down with her partner to plan his life”.
Her career is just like Kruger herself: rich, subtle and elusive. She played the lascivious wife of a cynical television presenter in Guillaume Canet’s Mon Idole (the couple married in September 2011 but are now separated). It was a funny, piquant, and wild role and Kruger was stunning in it. She followed up with the worthy Michel Vaillant (Need for Speed), adapted from the comic strip of the same name, then joined an all-star casting (Brad Pitt, Eric Bana, Orlando Bloom etc) for the blockbuster Troy before becoming Nicolas Cage’s faithful side kick in the Benjamin Gates franchise. And all the while she kept up her French career with the likes of Anything for Her, Forces Spéciales and Farewell My Queen. Talking of her latest role with Dany Boon in Un Plan Parfait she admitted: “I’m not necessarily a comedian by nature but he really helped me loosen up.” Diane Kruger is now one of the upper crust of international cinema. She appears on talk shows and at festivals around the world alongside the greatest stars. And we will see her again soon as the step-mother of Abraham Lincoln in The Green Blade Rises, from the cult director Terrence Malick, and in The Host, a sci-fi flick slated to be directed by Andrew Niccol. “I don’t like programming anything,” Kruger insists. “That’s what attracted me to the script of Un Plan Parfait: a simple encounter can completely blow away a settled life.” Unpredictable and passionate, this admirer of Romy Schneider – “The sadness in her eyes in her last films just kills me,” – isn’t ready to shift to a lower, more stay-at-home gear yet when it comes to choosing her roles. One thing is certain: with Diane Kruger, the best is yet to come!
La convergence de L’écLat.
Her beauty is so surreal she appears like a Martian amongst us mere mortals. A meeting with a radiant being whom the word star suits so well. Interview by Frank Rousseau
ou claim when you were little you were an ugly duckling. Were you joking?
I had no hair until I was four years old. I was a fat baby with a disproportionate head. In some ways I was an “alien” baby. And to make matters worse I didn’t get all my teeth until I was 11! I had an illness that stopped my teeth coming through normally. In short I looked very strange. What’s more I was very tall with very pale skin and I wore glasses – you can imagine what I looked like! Set our minds at rest, you don’t doubt your sex appeal nowadays do you? Since I became one of the faces of Dior as well as the wicked Queen in Snow White and the Huntsman, everyone has been asking me how I get on with my mirror! I’m just like everyone else. There are good days and bad days. There are days when I feel I look good and other days when I doubt myself and my appeal. People like to think my dressing room resembles Ali Baba’s cave with miles of dresses, skirts, blouses and furs (which I loathe by the way). I don’t like any kind of excess; it’s my African side. I appreciate moderation. I don’t see the point of “collecting”, having piles of stuff. I don’t see the point in having 2,000 pairs of shoes – after all, we’ve only got two feet! And then you get the feeling your clothes are taking you over and that makes me feel uncomfortable so I have clear outs. Except for my jeans which I keep for years! How would you define luxury? For me, luxury isn’t something material, like jewellery or a beautiful sports car or a wardrobe packed with haute-couture dresses. For me the supreme luxury is for a start being able to say I will do what I like, when I like! What kind of an environment did you grow up in? My parents had a farm. At an age when most girls were still playing with their Barbie dolls, I knew how to take apart shock absorbers and change the carburettor on a car! And that’s when I wasn’t changing the
gearbox oil. Now you understand why I have such respect for blue-collar workers. That’s where I come from. My values are simple; I’m not a social climber. The other day my mother told me she got up at 6 am to milk the cows. These are the things that stay with you. I think humility is passed on in the genes! What was the first film that you saw that made you want to become an actress? The first film that we rented as a video and watched at home was Splash with Tom Hanks. I was nine. I probably watched the film a hundred times. I saw myself as Daryl Hannah alias the mermaid to such a point I locked myself in the bathroom for hours. My dream was to see my legs metamorphose into a mermaid’s tail. It didn’t matter how long I soaked in the bath, nothing happened! Given the lake of convincing evidence, I fell back on Dirty Dancing. I trained myself in Patrick Swayze’s dance steps by watching the tape over and over and over again. I think I kept it at home for nearly a year. The rental guy was so furious I didn’t bring it back he began harassing my mum on the phone! Tell us how you came to Hollywood, this Promised Land. It was my mother who pushed me to leave Benoni and forced the hand of fate. At the airport nearest our home I asked the hostess for a single to Hollywood. The girl behind the counter burst out laughing and said: “Hah, you mean Los Angeles? Hollywood is a suburb of L.A. Surely you don’t think the pilot’s just going to land his Boeing in the middle of Sunset Boulevard?” I was just a country bumpkin, barely out of the sticks! In the end I landed in the City of Angels with US$400 in my pocket. It was just enough for a room in a cheap motel. In the evenings, to pass the time and improve my English (I spoke with a Boer accent) I repeated the dialogues on Love Boat or Dynasty in front of the television, making sure to pronounce every word correctly. You wouldn’t believe how much Joan Collins helped me!
Joan Collins had her beauty secrets, what are yours? Sleeping! And drinking lots of water. I eat six small meals with proteins, very little starch. Fruit and vegetables. As for cakes, hamburgers and pizzas, I eat a quarter portion so as not to get frustrated. It’s well known frustration makes you put on weight! As a general rule I watch what I eat very closely! When I shop, even if it’s only for a pound of tomatoes, I spend time reading the label. It’s what I call the “self-preservation routine”. You were a model before becoming an actress. What are your memories of that experience? It was horrible. The girls on the catwalk with me didn’t even realise they were being exploited. The only thing they worried about was losing 10 pounds and being “shot” by photographers like Bruce Weber! Having been a model was a handicap when I first started in film. You are branded. Directors see you as “easy” or a "bimbo". Basically you aren’t credible in the eyes of some studios. What would we find in Charlize Theron’s bag? A water atomiser, the lead from one of my dogs, my purse, mints. I’m not a gadget freak! I’m not interested in having the very latest mobile phone. I’m not very Facebook either. I do tweet but I don’t use it for personal business. It’s simply a tool that allows 50
me to pass on messages for the charity groups I am involved in. You will never see tweets from me saying something like: “Hi! I’m on the terrace of such and such café at the moment.” Or: “I just bought a skirt!” Frankly who cares? If you had to confess one of your guilty pleasures? To unwind I splash out on good French wines. I don’t hold back – I pay what they’re worth. And I also love Croque Madames. They are so easy to make and so astounding. And I love butter croissants too. Between you and me, I’m a little addicted to butter! I also love going for a stroll around the Eiffel Tower in the summer and shopping in the Marais. Other than that, I can’t resist a plate of pickled fish, a South African specialty. Some local restaurants cook the dish in the Hangi style, a Polynesian technique which consists of cooking the food with hot stones placed in a dirt oven. What can you not tolerate? People who still buy fur coats when they know they can get really beautiful fake fur nowadays. If you knew the conditions in which mink, silver foxes and chinchillas are assassinated in, it’s shameful! They cut them up while they’re still alive. All that for “appearance” to be “in fashion”. When will women who wear furs realise it’s out-dated?
If you had to explore one place you have never been to, where would you choose? I would like to go trekking around the Machu Picchu. The problem is every time I decide to make the trip it’s the rainy season! I just visited the most beautiful Maya site: a childhood dream that finally came true! And one day I would really love to climb a mountain like the Kilimanjaro. But before tackling that I would like to do a face of the Mont Blanc! (Laughs). And if someone asked me to take a look at a planet in the Solar System tomorrow honestly I’d go for it. The only condition would be that it wouldn’t take too long and a guarantee I would get back to earth safe and sound! I admit teleporting would be cool: a lunchtime picnic on Mars, a hike around the lunar craters in the afternoon and then camping out on Saturn - fantastic! What phobia do you not like admitting to? Taking a plane, particularly the take-off and landing. It’s really practical but it’s against nature’s laws! Us human beings are ground people! But I don’t have any choice but to use this means of transport. Travelling by boat or train simply isn’t compatible with my line of business!
Lana Del Rey’s Video games
he is the musical revelation of the year. Her Video Games video has been viewed 15 million times on YouTube! With her stunning looks, smooth voice and captivating melodies, she cultivates an enigmatic and offbeat universe somewhere between James Elroy’s L.A. Confidential and the surreal films of David Lynch. Admired or criticised, Lana Del Rey leaves no-one indifferent. We take a closer look at this enchanting character as we await a new album. Let the magic take over! By Yvo Deprelle
winging in the backyard, Pull up in your fast car, Whistling my name, Open up a beer, And you take it over here, And play a video game..." You could hardly have missed this wonderful song. It has been everywhere this year, on the radio, TV and Internet. The deep enchanting voice and the imaginative Super 8 format video and you were immediately transported. And then she did it again with Blue Jeans, and then National Anthem and finally the album Born to Die. A picture begins to emerge and within a matter of months a star is born! Singer, songwriter and composer all in one and just 26 years old. But who is Lana Del Rey?
From Lizzy to Lana First of all, Lana Del Rey is a pseudonym, like a vintage character from a 1950s film noir. Lana is a tribute to the Hollywood star Lana Turner and Del Rey is after the famous Ford car. It’s all a long way from the birth of Elizabeth - Lizzy – Grant in 1986 in New York. That was where she grew up and studied aside a brief period in Connecticut. She was soon singing in church and the schools of her childhood and her uncle taught her to play guitar. In 2008 she put out two records under her real name but with limited success. Then came the avalanche of Born to Die. Released in 2012, it reached Number One in several countries. She lists among her influences Nirvana, Elvis Presley, Sinatra, Britney Spears, Eminem and Anthony and the Johnsons; a multitude of genres who are all to be found in her music which is at once soul and rock with just a touch of hip hop for a very trip hop 2012 sound. Some have criticised her looks but this superb young woman with a very glamorous 1950s style has been taken on by Next, one of the biggest modelling agencies there is, so that should quieten a few tongues!
From James Elroy’s L.A. Confidential to the surreal films of David Lynch, the videos conjure a disturbing, mysterious and captivating atmosphere. The backdrop is somewhere between the 1950s and 1990s, between Puritanism, the American dream and disappointment. She filmed Video Games herself, creating a collage of amateur videos and Super 8 films. Youngsters flee boredom on their skateboards while drunken, 50s-style starlets stumble on Hollywood Boulevard’s red carpets. In Blue Jeans, shot in black and white, her lover drowns in a crocodile-infested swimming pool. And Lana herself dies in a horrific car crash in the Born to Die video which greatly resembles Lynch’s Lost Highway. Her characters seem disillusioned, caught between a golden youth and a lost generation. The girls are sadly beautiful and their deceptively knowing smiles seem to hide terrible secrets. Love unrequited can lead to suicide (Summertime Sadness). There are numerous patriotic references and the American flag makes frequent appearances in the videos. In National Anthem she re-enacts the famous scene in May 1962 when Marilyn Monroe sang "Happy birthday, Mister President" to John F Kennedy. Then she plays a decidedly Jackie O-style sixties First Lady on the arm of a black president (a nod to Barack Obama?) until he dies in the same way as JFK in the Dallas shooting of November 22, 1964. Finally, her magnificent cover of Bobby Vinton’s Blue Velvet takes her 100 per cent into the Lynch
universe. In a kind of sanatorium, a strange public made up of lookalikes and secretaries listen to her singing in fake playback as an angry dwarf pulls the plug! Her unusual and incredibly voice covers a great range, reaching high notes and deep, always disturbing, a whispered chant. As for the music, it is like a breath of fresh air, a new 2012 version of trip hop, a blend of scratch and sampling, and sixties guitar and string arrangements (violin, harp etc).
What now? Naturally such talent and success has provoked jealousy. Many have begun criticising Del Rey, labelling her televised appearances weak or accusing her of plagiarism. At one point she even considered ending her career. Fortunately she changed her mind! A new version of the Born to Die album has just been released (Paradise Edition) with several new tracks including the famous Blue Velvet cover for an H&M ad. In fact the Swedish ready-to-wear giant asked Del Rey to design an exclusive new collection for the autumn. With a pale pink jumper and black leggings, Lana makes her look of a smart young girl, a sixties baby doll in black eyeliner, available to everyone. Voted singer of the year by GQ magazine, Del Rey now has the cinema in her sights. But her many, many fans can rest assured – she is also working on a new album. We can’t wait!
The enigmatic Lana has been staking out a territory in Los Angeles between Hollywood and Mulholland Drive, Sunset Boulevard and Melrose Avenue. Film noir and fiction noir references are voluntarily recurrent in her work, cleverly done and completely fitting.
©: Nicole Nodland
From Marilyn to David Lynch, a tortured look
ÂŠ: Nicole Nodland
Saint Laurent Forever!
t was the event of the last fashion week not to be missed under any pretext: Hedi Slimane’s first ready-to-wear women’s collection for YSL, now renamed Saint Laurent Paris. Only a handpicked lucky few were admitted and accreditation was ultra-strict. The show was hailed a unanimous success and that, combined with the secrecy surrounding it have propelled the label back to the summit of fashion once more! What better time to look back on a legendary name that has been revolutionising women’s wardrobes since 1955? The story of YSL. By Yvo Deprelle
Paris, Monday October 1, 8 pm. The Grand Palais is unrecognisable, disguised as it is as a strange black lacquered box. People speak in hushed tones as they struggle to find their seat. The tension is at its height. Because this is a major event: Heidi Slimane marks his return to the fashion world at Saint Laurent for his first women’s collection. All the great names are there: Alber Elbaz, Marc Jacobs, Peter Dundas, Azzedine Alaïa, Vivienne Westwood, Diane Von Furstenberg and of course François Pinault, the head of the group with his wife, the actress Salma Hayek. And then the first models appear, nonchalant, all wearing wide-brimmed hats, to the sound of Junior Kimbrough remixed by Daft Punk. The models are elegant, lean and very tenebrous. The ensemble has a rock chic look about it, a touch of skimpy 70's with a dash of gypsy, somewhere between Woodstock and Marrakesh creating 2012 backstage glamour. It is as if it has all been designed for Kate Moss, the rock muse par excellence, who incidentally has a front row seat! Slimane reworks the Saint Laurent code and its iconic staples - the tux, the floppy necktie, black muslin, transparency – and brings them firmly up to date. The tuxedos are teamed up not with trousers but with black leather leggings. The capes and the muslin dresses are lengthened,
the blouses are decorated with flounces and the legendary safari suit becomes a djellaba. Slimane’s dark rock world meets the chic galaxy of Saint Laurent – and it works! This great tribute is a complete success! Even Pierre Bergé, Yves Saint Laurent’s partner, is delighted. "It’s a wonderful and extraordinary collection. The best show I have seen since the death of Saint Laurent," he says. Slimane has pulled it off and the adventure can head in a new direction.
The Dior years It all started in 1953 with a competition by the International Wool Secretariat sponsored by Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior. And out of it came two young prodigies; Yves Henri Donat Mathieu Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld. Saint Laurent won the first and the third prize; that of the dress, and his career was underway! Born in Algeria in 1936 to a large, bourgeois family, young Yves thus found himself in Paris at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. By 1955, he was Dior’s assistant and took over as head of the prestigious label when Dior died two years later. And he was still only 21! His first collection, the “Trapeze” line, was a huge success. Then,
First Smoking, 1966 - © Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent
his provocative side already showing, he launched the beatnik and the black jacket looks – a major first in the hushed world of Haute Couture at the time! But then came his military service in 1960. Saint Laurent fell into a depression and ended up in the Val de Grâce hospital. While he was ill Dior fired him, appointing his colleague, the young Marc Bohan in his place. In 1962 Saint Laurent decided to launch his own label with his partner, Pierre Bergé, who he had met two years earlier. "Dior taught me my trade. Thanks to Chanel I found my style,” he would later say.
First Caban, 1962
During the Sixties and Seventies, Yves Saint Laurent was to revolutionise women’s wardrobes, designing clothes that appeared scandalous at first but rapidly became legendary and then standards. In doing to, he created the wardrobe of the modern woman as we still know it today. The first shock wave came with the lady’s tux, launched in 1966. It was banned in numerous Parisian establishments! That was followed by suit trousers, the safari suit, the jump suit and the see-through blouses at a time when it was unthinkable for a woman to wear the trousers in a figurative sense! It was also unthinkable for her to reveal her breasts – and thus her sexuality - in a see-through blouse. One of Saint Laurent’s touches of genius was to take traditionally male items such as the trench coat and the car coat and adapt them for women. Like Chanel in her time, he was one of the first to empower women by giving them confidence and assurance while glorifying their femininity. He was in demand from all the young stars of the time such as Françoise Hardy, Catherine Deneuve and Paloma Picasso and they all became his friends. Flanked by two beautiful muses, Betty Catroux and Loulou de la Falaise, Saint Laurent burned the candle at both ends; attending the best night clubs and enjoying exotic trips to Marrakesh. He found his inspiration in the street and he inspired the street in return. He took an interest in everyone. He wanted to dress all women, not just the rich and famous who could access couture. That is why in 1966 he became the first haute couture designer to open
a ready-to-wear boutique aside from his salon: Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. His designs were enormously successful for 20 years. He often found inspiration in art and paid homage to numerous artists with his Mondrian collection, his Pop Art dresses, and his African collection. He paid homage too to Picasso, Matisse, Braque and Van Gogh. But by the mid 1980s Saint Laurent was tired. He stopped designing and stopped going out. Weakened, he preferred solitude. He was no longer interested in the street and it showed in his creations. He preferred to rework the classics although he continued to produce beautiful evening gowns. In 1998, 300 models paraded in the Stade de France for the football World Cup finals in a massive tribute to his career. In 2002 he announced his retirement and he died six years later in 2008 at the age of 72. A genius passed away. "I participated in the creation of my time. I did it through clothes which is doubtless less important than music, architecture, painting and many other arts,” he said of himself.
After Yves In 1993, Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé decided to sell the label to the Elf-Sanofi group. From 1998, Alber Elbaz took over women’s ready-to-wear well before he went to Lanvin, and a young Hedi Slimane looked after the men’s collection. Saint Laurent retained control of couture. The situation soon changed though as just a year later Sanofi sold the label to billionaire François Pinault’s luxury group PPR. At this point Tom Ford was placed in charge of all ready-towear and in 2002 Saint Laurent retired from Haute Couture. Texan Ford tried to apply the same winning formula he had used at Gucci, i.e. porno chic, with sexy and refined outfits but it failed and Saint Laurent was furious. Stefano Pilati took over in 2004 while Pierre Bergé launched the Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent Foundation and agreed the sale by auction of their joint art collection. 2012 is the year of the triumphant return of Hedi Slimane at Rive Gauche. Pierre Bergé along with all the fashion intelligentsia fell under his charm. With this success, a new chapter can begin in the YSL story because as Saint Laurent put it so succinctly: "Fashions fade, style is eternal.”
© Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent
Decadence" By Jitrois
For this season, long-time collaborator Rankin turns his lens upon four mischievous heroes at sophisticated play.
his game of seduction, an idea at the heart of the D.N.A. of Jitrois, is played out by a selection of characters evoking a 1920s country house mystery tale of the like of Agatha Christie: Masha Voronina, a listless Socialite; Chris Doe, a manipulative Narcissus; Tuuli Shipster, a Charming Blonde feigning innocence but playing Judas. The enigmatic Artist, Nadine Ponce, cuts an insouciant and androgynous figure, bringing a wave of modernity and sparking a dark, romantic revolution.
With the arrival of The Artist comes a new, enlightened mood, more Bloomsbury Group than 'Bright Young Things'. With modern self-awareness comes an irresistible, fluid power of seduction. Standing against bourgeois rituals and for shared ideas and shared love, the revolution shakes up the house of carefully laid-out cards, and some are revealed to be as intrinsically still and cold as the statues around them. Our characters move through a labyrinthine mansion, a formidable character in itself played excellently by Aynhoe Park. Filled with objects and curios, this esoteric setting harks back to the age of Le Grand Tour and represents the conservative moral and artistic codes of the last two millennia. In juxtaposition, dramatic tableaux of lovers are cast in the Orangerie. Rich tones of ruby noir and midnight purple create a sumptuous, jewel-like colour palette, while smocked leather, crochet detailing and golden embroideries evoke a textural tapestry. Both complement the eccentric and diverse fabric of this incredible environ. Around the piano, hyper-feminine stretch leather evening gowns are juxtaposed against the androgynous tailoring favoured by The Artist. The latter, imbibed with a devastating power of seduction, dominates any love triangle. In Jitrois, three is a beautiful crowd.
Icons of the World U N IQU E T I M EPI E CE â€“ MOSC OW
A manufacture movement, hand-wound, double barrel, 28,800 vib/h, 45 jewels, 72-hour power reserve with an original gong-striking alarm, evoking the characteristic cadence of a mountain chapel bell.
ups and downs
By Vincent Mazoué
UPS Cinema: Happy birthday Mr Bond! A box set including every one of the films, a magnificent book entitled The James Bond Archives published by Taschen, not forgetting the video games, fragrance and even cake figurines! Any excuse for celebrating 50 years of the most famous of secret agents. The award for good taste goes to Bollinger champagne which has brought out a special box set for the occasion: Bollinger 002 for 007. The presentation box is in the shape of a silencer for James Bond’s Walter PPK. And just to make sure the message gets through, you will need to put in the code 007 and click on a pistol-shaped logo to open the box and taste the 2002 vintage, the most exceptional year of the decade according to the company. Cheers! Fashion: a right “Royal” winter You will have to get used to it, especially if you prefer solid colours and discretion is your general rule. Wallpaper patterns are the in thing for this winter! They have been spotted at Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino and Barbara Bui among others. Great tapestry-style flowers and oriental embroiders of all
DOWNS Music: Who’s afraid of Nicki Minaj? Could success be going to the head of the fluorescent diva? It looks like it might be the case given her regular escapades which have the celebrity world quaking in its boots. After having allegedly issued a death threat against Mariah Carey during the taping of American Idol, Nicki Minaj is now making headlines in the UK. Not content with revealing a breast on stage at Nottingham (she says it was an accident and we would so love to believe her!), the rap artist quite simply slammed the door in the face of Mario Balotelli in Manchester. The football star was hyper-excited at the idea of meeting his idol but was refused entry into Minaj’s dressing room – the singer pleaded sudden exhaustion and opted for a chicken take-away over a meeting with Mario. Now that is really classy! Japan: Down with romanticism! Fragile and romantic men are definitely out of favour with women in Japan. According to the daily Japan Times, Japanese women are no longer impressed by
kind are all in this year. Our advice is to wear just one pattern (but beware of unfortunate combinations) with simple boots or heels and ideally match with chunky knitwear. Apparently the thicker the material, the thinner you look so go for it! Music: Frank Ocean This is the disc you just have to have to set the mood for those long winter nights: Channel Orange (Def Jam - Universal) by Frank Ocean will really bring the house down as they say! A warm and sensuous voice, poignant and well-honed lyrics, this 25-year-old singer songwriter is following in the footsteps of Stevie Wonder and Marvin Gaye. The album has even more impact when you learn the rising star came out right after it was released. A brave move given the latent homophobia in the hip hop scene. Since then Ocean has received messages of support from Busta Rhymes and Solange Knowles, Beyonce’s little sister. We’re with you Frank! Travel: three unusual destinations Do you feel like a change of scene? A whole range of new destinations are emerging, most definitely off the beaten track. If you want to breathe in pure,
sensitive beauties. Instead they are giving all their attention to “nikushokukei danshi”, in other words “carnivores”. The check list says the guy must be fresh and “ripped” (i.e. nicely muscled but not musclebound!). What young Japanese girls are looking for in this ideal is: “A reliable man, capable of making a decision. That’s what Japan needs in these uncertain times.” Something to think about! Diets: A robot to help you lose weight Anything goes in the US when it comes to fighting the obesity epidemic. Inventors have now come up with a robot to help people who want to lose weight. It is slightly disconcerting when you realise the machine called “Autom” has facial recognition abilities, gives out advice and can hold your look. In short, it is designed to ensure a guilt trip when you sneak a little ice cream to enjoy in front of the TV of an evening! Your best plastic friend (38 cm) will be hot on your calorie trail: its data base includes 75,000 food items. It will even give you advice before you go out to a restaurant! How demoralizing… Fashion: Enough sports shoes on the red carpet! It is the fashion faux-pas that’s been grabbing the most headlines lately. At the premiere for Twilight 4
fresh air and enjoy a Zen break then try Bhutan, a little enclave nestled in the heart of the Himalayas. Tourist access is still limited which makes this one of the most well-preserved spots on the planet. Ukraine, an unimaginable destination just a few years ago, is gradually opening up as well. Visit it to discover the splendid Byzantine architecture and drink in the sunsets over the Black Sea. Finally Taiwan, for the beauty of its breath-taking mountainous landscape and the crazy energy of Taipei, the trendy capital, home to the 101 tower, one of the highest in the world rising to 508 metres. Lingerie: Caliente the Cruz sisters! When two sisters renowned for their faultless figures work hand in hand with a lingerie company, the result is likely to be a success! Penelope and Monica Cruz have just formalised their collaboration with “Agent Provocateur”, the underwear line founded by Vivienne Westwood’s son, Joe Corre. The soberly named “L’Agent” range will go on sale from August 2013 in major outlets only. Few details have been revealed as yet, the designs are still being worked on. We just know that prices should be comparatively reasonable, around theUS$65 mark.
(Part One), the heroine Kristen Stewart was snapped in a black dress …. And trainers! The reason given was that the actress finds it harder and harder to wear high heels at these events. Drop-jawed fashion journalists and bloggers have put such an unforgivable error down to the actress’s youth. While her onagain/off-again relationship with Robert Pattinson keeps media attention focussed sharply on her, she seems to be taking it all in her Converse-clad stride and who knows – she could even start a new fashion. Keep watching … Books: Should you read Fifty Shades of Grey? To describe Fifty Shades of Grey as a failure would hardly be fair given the 40 million copies sold around the world since its release. The first volume of the trilogy dubbed “Mummy porn” relates the adventures of the very attractive and very rich Christian Grey whose sole passion is to tie up and spank his young lover Ana Steele as they make love. The book is a worldwide bestseller but the critics are unanimous: the style is poor, the writing repetitive and the plot would fit onto the back of a postage stamp. But it isn’t over yet. As well as the follow-ups Fifty Shades Darker and Fifty Shades Freed, screenwriters are working on a film adaptation in Hollywood…
Black Splash By Laure Delvigo
1.DIOR Mise en Dior plastron necklace - 2.Goyard Comores handbag small size in yellow canvas and leather - 3.DIOR Mitzah ring - 4.DIOR Miss Dior bag in Mink, Tweed And Beige Lurex - 5.Elie Saab MinaudiĂ¨re in bronze python - 6.dior Platform Courtshoe In Crepe De Chine And Black Satin 7.Versace Black suede knee high boots with nappa leather cross encrusted with yellow rhinestones - 8.Louboutin Diplonana 120 calf lame Mekong 9.Gucci Leather and gold metal choker - 10.dior Mitzah river earrings - 11.gucci Horsebit Cocktail ring in yellow gold and smoky quartz 12.Versace Black velvet zipped handbag with cross print 13.gucci Lady Stirrup bag in suede and leather - 14.gucci Suede and leather ankle boots 15.louboutin Crazy Fur 120 Lady Glitter Vison. 61
Journe E Timely excellence
nthralled by the golden age of fine watch-making, François-Paul Journe has built up a reputation as an expert on the subject over the years, a worthy heir to the masters of the Age of Enlightenment. A meeting with a fascinated and fascinating character! By Nicolas Berger
François-Paul, how did your passion for watchmaking come about? After studying watch-making in Marseille and the Paris, I began working with my uncle, a leading restorer of pocket watches and antique time pieces, and discovered the art of the great masters of the 18th century; Antide Janvier, Abraham-Louis Breguet and everything they managed to do with the limited means of their age. I enjoyed going over the intellectual and philosophical progression of their designers: men of science, inventors or master watch-makers, delving into the mechanical hearts of exceptional pieces which still make my own heart race! It was in 1977, when I saw the watch George Daniels had made for the great collector Sam Clutton that my path became definitively clear and so I decided to make a tourbillon watch myself. After having made several unique pieces with complications for leading collectors in my workshop in Rue de Verneuil, Paris, I began getting more and more orders coming from prestigious Swiss watch-makers and collectors. So I decided to stop working for others and concentrate full time on my own creations. You know the rest! Why did you choose the motto Invenit et Fecit (I invented it and I made it)? The brand Invenit et Fecit certifies and guarantees that every exclusive F. P. Journe movement is a manufacture calibre entirely invented and created in our Manufacture workshops in the centre of Geneva. This inspiration can also be found in the 17th century, on time-pieces created by great French watch-makers when they were declared original watches by the Royal Academy of Sciences. This brand is the personal stamp of our label and goes far beyond “Swiss Made” or even the Geneva stamp. In September you inaugurated a 2,600 m² horology cluster, the Cadraniers and Boîtiers de Genève: was this a personal challenge? This new prestige horology cluster brings together the ensemble of watch case production under one, 2,600 m² roof. The challenge, I should say the obligation, was to give equal value to and demand the same craftsmanship in the creation of top-of-therange cases and faces as is applied to the manufacture of F. P. Journe calibres. With this same authenticity as in my own watch case workshops, I no longer
have any boundaries on creation. And we offer a complete watch mounting service for other brands as we only produce some 900 F. P. Journe watches per year, and that is not a high enough production rate to keep the workshops in business.
What is your favourite among your countless models? I would have to say all of them as each model that I have created grew from a particular story, but perhaps the Sonnerie Souveraine because this exceptional piece is the most complicated of all the horology creations. It is also the most complete grand strike model to have ever been made. Previously, there was always a risk in using a strike watch. The slightest error – for example adjusting the time during striking – damaged the precious mechanisms. So the first challenge I set myself in the specifications of this watch was that an eight-year-old child should be able to use it without causing any damage: the greatest challenge of my career! In order to meet this standard, I had to build a movement on new mechanical principles. That is why there are six patents bearing witness to the “Invenit” side of this work and as for the “Fecit”, well that took me six years. The Sonnerie Souveraine is equipped with every possible safety mechanism, ensuring it is protected from its user. You can wear it every day and in Grand Strike mode it will chime all on its own 35’040 times per year. Finally, what would be your dream watch? The watches that interest me are unfortunately not from our time, but without doubt it would be a watch made by Abraham-Louis Breguet. For more information www.fpjourne.com
Hublot and Chronopassion A story of rock ‘n’ love!
ell-known to all those who love exceptional time-pieces, the Chronopassion boutique in the Rue Saint-Honoré was where the new watch from Hublot made its world premiere. And the so “à la mode” Skull Bang design was the Swiss company’s way of indulging the store’s owner, Laurent Picciotto! By Nicolas Berger
Clock! Sinister god, frightening, impassive.” Hublot’s Skull Bang echoes the famous poem by Baudelaire – in a certain macabre way at least! The Skull Bang - 45mm case, watertight to a depth of 50 metres - is a time-piece made entirely from black ceramic, and boasts a designer skull on the face. Limited to just 100 pieces, this gothic rarity is only available from the Chronopassion boutique! Such exclusivity does not come by chance. Laurent Picciotto was one of the first to have faith in Hublot when he opened the Swiss company’s first boutique in the world in 2007. A fan of rock and guitars, he could not have wished for a more fitting tribute to
their collaboration. This watch can also be seen as a contemporary vanity, a memento mori, a work of art reminding us of the ephemeral nature of existence – and the appetite with which it should be devoured! Once again, Laurent Picciotto proves himself to be a man of the times with this rock star bijou. Chronopassion 271, rue Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris, France Phone: +33 (0) 1 42 60 50 72
© Photo: Stéphane de Bourgies
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Fabergé Les Saisons Russes The new high jewellery collection by Fabergé evoking the rhythms of the Russian seasons.
ara, the charmed world of Les Saisons Russes is inhabited by the lively gem-encrusted dancing, skating female figures of the Lara clippendants. Each enchanting figure is dressed in a costume inspired by the richness of traditional embroidered and embellished Russian costumes, set with diamonds, rose diamonds, pearls and coloured stones. The girls dance and skate on wintry lakes, wrapped in gemcovered costumes, hats and mittens, or draped in a shawl of intricately woven light and colour. Exploring Peter Carl Fabergé’s world in turn-of-the-century Russia, with its compelling mix of nostalgia and joy, its revelry in Old Russian traditions, crafts, fable and folklore, pagan or Slavic in origin, this poetic contemporary High Jewellery by Fabergé focuses on the well-defined seasons of the year, each with its own celebrations and rituals, an ode to the rhythms of nature that shaped the Russian lifestyle, the leisured luxury of country estates, the glittering splendour of winter balls. The jewels, in true Fabergé style, demonstrate an intuitive interplay of rare coloured precious gems, diamonds and pearls with superlative hand artisanship, to capture and reflect the changing light, colours and atmossphere of each season.
Spring: The long-awaited awakening of the earth, a burst of new light and life, represented by the collection of the first contemporary Fabergé High Jewellery and Fine Jewellery Egg pendants, Les Fameux de Fabergé and Les Frissons de Fabergé. Summer: Dappled sunlight in summer gardens, the enchantment of White Nights settling over St Petersburg. Delices d’Eté, an effusion of brilliant candy-coloured gems, vivacious and sun-kissed, echoing the strong colours of traditional Russian floral cloisonné work. Dentelle D’Eté, inspired by the exquisite lace, muslins and embroideries of summer gowns, pearl and diamond mosaics centred with blue saphires, vibrant as a summer sky. Winter: The sparkling stillness of a long, white Russian winter, the silence of snowdrifts, Troikas and bells, ice palaces, the romance of winter balls. Zhivago, dazzling ice-white compositions of delicate, crisp snowflakes falling softly onto rows of diamonds and pearls. Imperial, glistening snow-covered diamond cupolas, aristocratic crests, the penchant for precious pearls, worn with exquisite white gowns at lavish candlelit winter parties. Autumn: Mellow warmth, russet, golden tones and lingering shadows. Kokoshnik, the traditional high arched Russian headdress, wrapped around a wide cuff bangle, set with rare Alexandrites, the Russian gem, with its changing depths of green and purple. Sarafan, intense, fiery rubies contrast with diamonds, noble and elegant, to recall the richness of traditional red and white Russian textiles. www.faberge.com
hernier offers more in the way of luxury Italian craftsmanship than its distinctive jewellery sets: it also has wonderful silverwork pieces from De Vecchi. Stones, sparkles and the glint of metal – welcome to the Garden of Eden! By Nicolas Berger
Vhernier is synonymous with style and elegance and so was naturally drawn to the know-how and excellence of De Vecchi. This silversmiths was founded in 1935 by Piero De Vecchi, a sculptor and engraver who was an adept of the futurist movement in his youth. He exhibited his work at the Milan Triennale, and was awarded numerous prizes including an honorary degree in 1947 for an aluminium thermos which was later bought by New York’s Museum of Modern Art! In 1962 Piero’s son Gabriele, once an eminent representative of the kinetic and programmatic art move-
ment, took over as company chief. He invested in research into the reflective qualities of silver and studied the relationship between an object and its environment. This is what gave rise to the De Vecchi style, now recognised and admired the world over. Sharing the same taste for style and exceptional craftsmanship, Vhernier acquired De Vecchi in October 2010, giving the company fresh impetus and a new dimension. One example of this refined art can be seen in Phoemina/Diana, a pair of solid silver vases, only 99 of which are made each year. The three-dimensional profiles
reveal an embrace of changing reflections, the Adam and Eve of a timeless era. Precisely as if to prolong this legend, Vhernier has just added the serpent of temptation to its fabulous collection of animal brooches. Coiled on white gold, the body is delicately sculpted in matt jet which you just want to stroke while the head and the tip of the tail are delicately studded with 278 diamonds. How can you resist! And there is more good news for Oriental fans: Vhernier has just opened a brand new boutique in Dubai, in the prestigious Jumeirah Emirates Towers’ shopping Boulevard!
Founder of the luxury watchmakers TF Est. 1968, Freddy Tschumi has cleverly extended his passion for timepieces into a complete line of accessories for today’s man-about-town. And he told us all about it. By Nicolas Berger
Freddy, what drew you to the universe of making watches? I have always loved things that go “tick tock”! Given that, I could either have become a terrorist which isn’t really up my street, or a watchmaker. Being a watchmaker seemed more than good enough for me! Also, the beauty of watches as well as the complications of their various movements have always fascinated and attracted me. Can you explain your company’s name, TF Est. 1968? “T” is for Tschumi and “F” is for Freddy. “Est.” means established in English and as for 1968, it is the year I was born. I’m proud to have been born in 1968, a year which made history around the world! Besides watches, you also create pens, cufflinks and leather goods. Was it important for you to diversify? TF Est. 1968 is a lifestyle label specialising in essentially male accessories, which is why it was
essential to create an “environment” and a TF Est. 1968 identity. This range has enabled us to open 450 very prestigious points of sale around the world in less than two years! Besides, I’m creative and I like to innovate with one-off articles that are fun and unusual, always manufactured with the finest materials to guarantee top-of-the-range quality but at an affordable price! What projects do you have in the pipeline? When you are an entrepreneur, especially in a field where creativity is no limit, your head is full of projects such as strengthening the position of TF Est. 1968 and developing other fun items connected to watches like marketing the first collection of watch jewellery for women, and other surprises! Finally, given you are a key figure in fine watchmaking, what is your relationship with time? Without measuring time, watchmaking would not exist and saving time can be considered a positive thing because this pushes us to be creative and exceed ourselves every second!
by michel roth
Hôtel Président Wilson
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Design in its purest form A talented creator, Rémi Tessier designs yachts and planes for wealthy clients from the four corners of the world. An interview with a man full of inspiration and plans. Interviewed by Quitterie Pasquesoone
How did you get started in design? I am completely self-taught! In fact I started at the age of 15 as a trainee cabinetmaker with the "Compagnons du Devoir" [an association that helps young people find a vocation]. That experience lasted eight years after which I naturally turned towards design. I had to take out a bank loan to start my own business. It was a success: we are celebrating its 20th anniversary this year! I am very much a self-made man. Why did you choose design? Because I only like beautiful things. Design corresponds perfectly to my frame of mind. How would you describe your style? I would say it is purist, elegant, comfortable, sensual, natural and sophisticated all at once. Who are you designing for today? My clientele is exclusively made up of international business leaders and billionaires (English, American, Swiss, Italian....). I design yachts and planes for them and also private residences. My reputation in this field is well known because each of my projects is exclusive and unique. Every project reflects the personality of my client. In fact it is Haute Couture! Haute Couture? Yes! I always incorporate the necessary sophistication into each creation with great sobriety. All the textures of the materials are sensual too, and natural. Each time it is as if the sun, sea and sand had been hard at work for years. It is timeless! I am the only one who works in such detail and with such great purity. 72
What are your main sources of inspiration?
What are you dreams for tomorrow?
I am enormously inspired by the elements of nature, by emotions, by contemporary art and life in general. Of course I am also tuned in to the inner personality of my clients.
They are simple! To go further, higher, with more strength and more purity.... That says it all!
What in your mind makes a work a success? For me, for a work to be a success, it must have both accuracy and balance. And above all, it must have a “soul”.
Sebastian Danton Gem lover
Director of Adamas jewellers and heir to a long line of diamond pioneers; Sebastian Danton perpetuates a dazzling art in the enchanted setting of the island of Mauritius. Sharing secrets amid sparkles! By Nicolas Berger
e bastian, the relationship between your family and precious stones could be described as a long love story.
In effect, my family has been involved in this universe since the 19th century! In the 1900s, my ancestor moved to Africa to be as close to the diamond mines as possible. Then in the 1970s my grandfather set up a diamond-cutting operation on Mauritius. Finally, making the most of the tourism boom of the 1980s, we opened our first boutique. That was in 1987. At first we concentrated on gold and diamonds but our range has diversified a great deal, largely thanks to the importation of finished products. Besides jewellery, we now offer Mont Blanc creations and a vast choice of luxury watches. Is it still a family business? Yes. My closest collaborators are my father, my mother and my sister! And I believe it is very important to maintain this family spirit. Four generations of diamond cutters and two of jewellers: it is history in the making and we have to keep making it!
Why did you choose the name Adamas? As you know, it comes from the Greek and Latin origins of the word â€œdiamondâ€?. It is a mark of the origins of our business even if we have diversified. What do you see as the specificities of your business on Mauritius? Firstly a wide variety of ranges of diamond. Also, because of our geographical position we work directly with Africa and Asia, the main suppliers of gems. We also have close ties with Europe and the United States so we can follow the trends. Our prices are also very attractive: 25 to 40% cheaper than in Europe! Lastly, given our clientele consists mainly of tourists, we are capable of producing tailor-made pieces in 48 hours! Finally, what is your favourite stone? It wouldnâ€™t be a stone but a fine pearl. Real pearls, not cultured ones, offer an incredible diversity of colours and quality of mother-of-pearl. They are ever rarer and still make us dream!
Gold textured wool dress and boots by LANVIN, black beaded leggings by REEM ACRA,belt by OSCAR DE LA RENTA Earrings and ring by TOM BINNS, necklace and cuffs by HERVE VAN DER STRAETEN
AGE THE GILDED
Photographed By Contarsy-Karecha Styled By Daud Widjaja Hair: Gianluca Mandelli @ INTRO Artists Make Up: Hazuki Matshushita @ INTRO Artists Manicure: Kelly Barber for Kiss @DeFacto Model: Quirine Engel @DNA Models Photographic Assistance: Rodin Banica Fashion Assistance: Bobby Warden Photographed at LINDA HORN Madison Ave @ 93rd St., New York City www.lindahorn.com
Fur print cashmere cape and beaded velvet pouf dress by ROBERTO CAVALLI, beaded tulle leggings by REEM ACRA Earrings cuff and ring (on left hand) by DELFINA DELETTREZ, ring (on right hand) by TOM BINNS and handbag by DOLCE & GABBANA
Gold embroidered wool military jacket and velvet long skirt by JASON WU,earrings by HERVE VAN DER STRAETEN Ring by FALLON, belt by OSCAR DE LA RENTA and boots by VERSACE
Paisley print wool crepe strapless gown and tulle crop long sleeve top by ETRO, necklace by FALLON and cuff by ALEXIS BITTAR.
Gold textured wool dress and boots by LANVIN, black beaded leggings by REEM ACRA, belt by OSCAR DE LA RENTA Earrings and ring by TOM BINNS, necklace and cuffs by HERVE VAN DER STRAETEN
Fan pleated tulle gown with gold embroideries by MARCHESA Earrings by TOM BINNS and cuff by PAMELA LOVE
Gold embroidered tulle corset, matching wool skirt, earrings and satin bra by DOLCE & GABBANA, beaded tulle leggings by REEM ACRA, necklace and cuff by TOM BINNS.
Gold embroidered leather biker jacket by RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION, silk mix print dress with bullion embroideries by ALTUZARRA Beaded tulle leggings by REEM ACRA, earrings and necklaces by PAMELA LOVE
SCHREINER Haute Joaillerie : Handmade unique Diamond Pendant Necklace Mod. "Diva", Manufactured in White Gold 750 / 38,40 Grams with 127 round F colour vvs clarity Diamonds with a weight of 4,35 Carats and 1 Solitaire Diamond F vvs clarity with a weight of 0,18 Carats, 1 Solitaire Diamond F colour vvs clarity with a weight of 0,23 Carats, 1 IGI certified Diamond G colour vvs1 clarity with a weight of 0,51 Carats with Rep.Nr. 22553 and 1 IGI certified Solitaire Diamond G colour vvs2 clarity with a weight of 0,52 Carats with Rep. Nr. 22550 and 50 pearshape Diamonds F colour vvs clarity with a total weight of 14,31 Carats.
"five for silver, six for gold " Photography and Art Direction By Thibault Breton - www.dkler.com Styled By Laure Delvigo Assistants : Sylvie Neves - Aurélie Laurent Post-production : Jocelyn Guillon Hand Model : Romy Making off : Aurélie Laurent Birds : Boutique Deyrolle www.deyrolle.fr Special thanks to : Jocelyn Adèle Phelouzat-Lombardo Julie Sudreau
CASPITA: Necklace Cravate « 7 Chakras » Yellow gold 18 carat and diamonds.
ARTUR SCHOLL : Ring 18k Pink Gold, diamond 0,92 and citrine 18,20 ct and topaze (london blue) 5,74 ct
ADLER : Necklace in 18kt white gold set with Sri Lankan sapphires 58.75cts and diamonds 81.82 cts.
DIOR JOAILLERIE : Bracelet « Bois De Rose », White Gold Diamonds.
DIOR JOAILLERIE : Ring White gold diamonds aquamarine. CASPITA : Ring 7 « Chakras Tourbillon » White gold 18 carat with diamonds. ROBERTO COIN : « Frog » ring in 18kt rose gold with tzavorites, brown and colourless diamonds. ARTUR SCHOLL : Ring 18k Pink Gold - diamond 1,67 with amethyst 10,70 and garnet 5,00 ct. DIOR JOAILLERIE - Ring red gold fancy pink diamonds.
EDOUARD NAHUM : Long necklace white gold diamonds.
DIOR JOAILLERIE : Bracelet « Bois De Rose », White Gold Diamonds & Ring Yellow Gold Diamonds Paraïba Tourmalines Pink Sapphires Yellow Sapphires Tsavorite Garnets Lacquer.
ROBERTO COIN « Bull »-Limited Edition bracelet in 18kt rose gold with rubies, black and colourless diamonds. « Octopus » ring in 18kt rose gold with citrines, brown and colourless diamonds. « Fantasia » White-black collar white gold with diamonds (1.8 ct) and black saphirs (20.458 ct). Nail Varnish Christian Drillien.
Evening Dress Denis Durand Couture - Bracelet Olivier Durbano.
Star Light Photographer : Sandra Fourqui www.sandrafourqui.com Art Direction : Laure Delvigo Stylist : Karine Martins Make-up : Aziza Badaoui Hair-Stylist : Olivier Schawalder Photographer Assistant : Benjamin Torres Model: Kriss c/o Karin Models Special Thanks to Le Bristol
Schreiner Haute Joaillerie Handmade pearshape Diamond Suite Collection “ Copacabana” with Necklace, Earrings and ring in White Gold, Christian Drillien Nail varnish “Fabio”.
Top Jitrois, Rings Dior Joaillerie.
Top and skirt Gucci, Luggages “Majordome” Goyard, Ring Dior Joaillerie, Bracelet Roberto Coin, Shoes Nando Muzi for Eric Tibusch.
Top & trousers Jitrois, Shoes Azzedine Alaia, Rings Dior Joaillerie.
Dress Basil Soda, Shoes L.K Bennett, Hat Eric Tibusch, Ring Roberto Coin.
Dress Escada, Necklace Olivier Durbano.
Whether it’s organic Pasadena, yuppie Downtown, bohemian Silver Lake, neo-hippie Venice, “enhanced” Hollywood or designer Beverly Hills - L.A. never ceases to surprise us. Fashionable hotels where it is good to be seen flourish under a perma-sun. The latest arrival is the W Hollywood Hotel & Residences. With all the style and luxury you could wish for and a spectacular view over the legendary hills, you bump into all the stars here - Jennifer Lopez, Pink, Nicole Richie are just some of the in vogue celebrities who have sunk their stilettos into the red carpet of the W Hollywood. Get ready for a dream trip in the heart of the city of Angels. By Laure Delvigo. Photo © W Hollywood
arely have we landed than we’re off again. We head for Hollywood Boulevard and wander “Mulholland Drive” style in our open-top cabriolet. Our destination is a contemporary luxury hotel decorated with five stars. And the view on the way there is star-studded too, from the famous Hollywood letters to the slender outline of the Downtown sky scrapers. We arrive at W Hollywood, the “new kid on the block”. With a red carpet (oh yes, just like for the
Golden Globes), ultra bright smiles and a so-now Bliss spa, there is no doubting, this really is Hollywood! Once inside the immaculate design punctuated with flaming red instantly grabs the visitor’s attention. Outsize walls, floors and ceilings shine brilliant white while a spectacular staircase conjures up the idea of an L.A. version of Basic Instinct 2.
that will make W Hollywood the coolest place in town.” The breathtaking view of the Hollywood skyline and the legendary Capital Records from the sliding door window in my room makes my head spin. And so does the budget for W Hollywood - a dizzying 350 million euros.
Opening in Hollywood, the epicentre of pop culture, marks a true milestone in W’s global expansion into the world’s most exciting and vibrant destinations,” said Eva Ziegler, Global Brand Leader, W Hotels Worldwide and Le Méridien. “W Hollywood further demonstrates our passion for entertainment as well as our leadership in cutting-edge design, which sets the stage for W’s unique lifestyle programming
I had opted for the appropriately-named “Cool Corner” suite over the “Wonderful”, “Spectacular”, “Fabulous” and others. Besides its oh-so “Nip/Tuck” 360° panoramic view, everything oozes luxury. The very latest in high tech equipment is matched by an elegant and chic design with a typically Californian feel.
or the ultimate luxury stay we would gladly have fallen for the “Extreme WOW” suite, a successful reinvention of the Presidential Suite that all too often looks a little has-been these days. This place is devoted to pleasure - luxury and sensuality reign supreme over
some 155m². There is a sinuous sofa, crocodile prints, large Ottoman-style tables, python-like divans, leather bed heads, sheets with a 350 thread count, black marble baths, majestic sliding door windows - this suite, reserved for the elite, is a jewel in its own right.
the Pacific Ocean? You could almost think you were Elizabeth Berkley, alias Nomi Malone, in Showgirls.
n the morning there is nothing better than lazing on the rooftop WET Deck with its spectacular view over L.A. The cameras are never far away - LG is filming an advert just around the corner. Snuggle down in a comfy sofa surrounded by floaty curtains with a café latte, a few home made brownies (just fabulous) and the Los Angeles Times to flick through. Then dive into the crystalline waters of the pool! Who needs
As for the highly select Sunday pool parties, you haven’t been to Hollywood until you have experienced this. Make sure you are on the guest list by contacting Drai’s Hollywood and join in an unforgettable experience.
hat better than brunch on the boulevard to fill an idle weekend morning? Under the Californian sun, the Delphine Brasserie is the perfect blend of the talents of chef Sascha Lyons and New York designer Mark Zeff. Everything is freshly
made and delicious, like the seafood pancakes at the bar. You can even enjoy the best of French culture via a vintage Bordeaux in front of a huge 56mÂ˛ drop-down cinema-style screen!
focus on manicures and pedicures, facials, waxing, and skincare services as well as Bliss signature massages. Seven treatment rooms and Bliss trademark touches such as rhythm & blues tunes, a retail beauty boutique, and legendary brownie buffet make Bliss Hollywood the ultimate destination for styl-
taying in the W for the afternoon, we slip off to the Bliss Hollywood Spa, well know to celebrities who are addsicted to treatments such as Ginger Rub and Triple Oxygen. This is the first Bliss Spa in Hollywood, with more than 560mÂ˛ of tension-fighting facilities with a
ish jet setters and spa and beauty-loving locals. W Hollywood guests and residents receive BIP (Bliss Important Person) status for priority reservations and exclusive in-room sampling, while sought-after sink side Bliss amenities are provided in all guest rooms and suites. A must!
IP evening. This is surely one of the hottest spots in L.A. At Drai’s you can expect to run into established film stars such as Jamie Foxx or rocksters Avril Lavigne and Pink, or even the curvaceous Jennifer Lopez and her husband Marc Anthony. For the record, Victor Drai is a legendary French entrepreneur, film producer and lifestyle magnate who transformed his own Hollywood life into a brand with his successful restaurant, Drai’s on La Cienega. After leaving Hollywood for Las Vegas in 1997, Drai forever changed the world’s nightclub scene with the opening of Drai’s on the Strip. The club’s 1 a.m. to early morning schedule helped make it the first after-hours venue in Sin City and still remains a night life staple. Drai partnered with Cy and Jesse Waits, two of the club world’s rising stars and opened two of the most successful nightclubs ever Tryst and XS in Las Vegas. Drai and the Waits twins’ newest venture, Drai’s Hollywood, provides a first class night life destination to the entertainment capital of the world.
Take note, simply staying at the hotel is not enough to ensure entry to Drai’s Hollywood. Our advice if you don’t have a black card then get out your 12 cm Louboutins, plaster on your best smile and your natural charm will do the rest! While the W Hollywood definitely adds to the contemporary dimension of L.A., it is also environmentally aware and has just been awarded the first LEED Silver Certification in California from the U.S. Green Building Council. “The idea of blending a modern lifestyle with a sustainable, green footprint truly resonates with today’s forward thinking hotel guest” says Jim McPartlin, W Hollywood’s General Manager. “W Hollywood has become a leader in the area of sustainability, and green practices have become a seamless part of our guests’ overall experience, which is extremely rewarding for us.” In addition to LEED Certification, W Hollywood has also received recognition from the design and envi-
ronmental community for its sustainability efforts, including the prestigious Millennium Award presented by Global Green USA and the Los Angeles Business Council’s Green Building Award. These are evidence that the property is setting a new precedent for refined luxury within an eco-conscious lifestyle. With all this added value, the W Hollywood has lost no time in creating a name for itself as a new mustsee in the city. It is a hotel that suits Hollywood down to the ground. We waved goodbye to L.A. but promised ourselves it was just a “see you again soon” for the W! W Hollywood and The Residences at W Hollywood 6250 Hollywood Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90028 Reservations: Tel: (+1 888) 625-4955 firstname.lastname@example.org www.whotels.com/hollywood
Mauritius Not just a pretty beach
veryone has their own idea of a dream holiday. For many, the image that springs to mind is of a tropical island where a white sandy beach leads down to crystal-clear waters as palm trees provide some welcome shade from the glorious sun – and of course in the background lies a world class hotel complete with cordon bleu chefs, a barman who knows your favourite cocktail and a great spa. But for others that kind of Paradise begins to lose its appeal very quickly and that is where Mauritius comes into its own.
By Samantha King
he motto of Mauritius is “Stella Clavisque Maris Indici” which translates as “Star and Key of the Indian Ocean” and this group of islands some 2,000 kilometres of the south east coast of Africa certainly does its best to live up to that motto. Since it was first discovered by Arab sailors in the Middle Ages, Mauritius has attracted the Portuguese, the Dutch, the French under Napoleon and then the British before finally gaining independence in 1968. The result is a nation of many languages (including French, English and Creole) and even more ethnicities and this wonderfully rich and welcoming blend of people and cultures is part of its attraction. Mauritius has been a luxury destination for years due to its top class hotels and high levels of service as well as fantastic landscapes and seascapes. It is not for nothing that at the World Travel Awards in January 2012 it received awards for the leading island destination for the third time and the beast beach. But it really is worth tearing yourself away from your sunlounger and doing some exploring. A good place to start is at a rum distillery such as the Rhumerie de Chamarel, one of the most renowned on the whole of Mauritius. Rum distilling is an industry that goes back centuries and is part of the island’s history and heritage. The Rhumerie de Chamarel is located on the south west of the island in the midst of fantastic scenery that makes the trip alone something to remember. And once you arrive you won’t be disappointed either. You will doubtless miss the dawn harvest. But within four hours the sugar cane is back at the mills. Experienced
guides will talk and walk you through the rummaking process, ending with the copper stills and cellars where the rum ages in barrels – the perfect setting for sampling products such as the “Coeur de Chauffe” and the Chamarel Liquors. Local architect Maurice Giraud has created a peaceful ambience in harmony with nature. It is all part of the philosophy at the Rhumerie de Chamarel where nothing
goes to waste. Fibrous residue becomes energy, ash becomes fertiliser and steam is collected for watering. Finally the Alchimiste restaurant offers an interesting and original menu based on the estate’s produce while the wine menu draws heavily on the island’s French past.
You can explore the island’s history further with a visit to the Château de Labourdonnais. This 150-year-old neoclassical Italian style former estate was completely renovated in 2006 and now offers visitors a glimpse of colonial Mauritius. From the majestic tree-lined avenue to the double doors leading into the grand hallway, one almost expects to see Scarlett O’Hara skipping down the stairs on her way to meet her beau in the fabulous grounds. The guided tour takes in the vast dining room decorated with hand-painted wallpaper while the pantry includes a magnificent display of vintage china and silverware. The drawing room contains numerous items of period furniture while on the first floor the master bedroom is a homage to Victorian style. The exhibition halls provide further insight into the development of the island and the history of the estate and the Wiehe family which has owned it for three generations. And the gardens, with their orchards planted with hundred-year-old mango trees, spice trees such as nutmeg and clove, as well as several exotic fruit trees such as the pomme jacot, sapote, jamalac and Kythira plum, are just as fascinating. These orchards are not just for decoration. In fact, together with some 400 acres of sugar cane, the estate yields around one thousand tons of produce per year and in 2008 it began distilling rum once more. The guided tour ends with a trip to the distillery and a chance to taste some of the varied products of the estate. And if that has whetted your appetite then try La Table du Château. The menu at Labourdonnais’ restaurant is full of seasonal home-grown produce presented in contemporary and refined surroundings.
erhaps after indulging in such earthly pleasures it is time for a little spirituality. One of the most unusual sites has to be the Hindu temples and lake in an extinct volcano crater in a secluded mountainous area in south eastern Mauritius. Known as the Ganga Talao or the Grand Bassin, it is the holiest Hindu site on the island. According to believers, Shiva visited the spot carrying water from the sacred River Ganges. But he was so moved by the natural beauty he spilt some of the water and it fell into the mountain. Since then, the Ganges has been said to flow in the lake. That is why Hindus from all over Mauritius make their way there during the Shivaratri festival and bathe in the holy waters. Temples and shrines surround the lake, watched over by a 30-metre tall statue of Shiva. Outside festival dates there are usually few visitors, giving you the impression of uncovering a secret treasure. The lake lies at about 700 metres above sea level and is often cloaked in fog, which, together with the silence, adds to the mysterious and mystical aura of the site. The temples are open to visitors although you are requested to take off your shoes before entering. Even when it comes to beaches, Mauritius is full of variety. Most smart hotels are centred on the northern and eastern coasts around the shimmering turquoise lagoon usually featured in brochures. But keen surfers head to the south west where the Morne Brabant cliff tumbles from 550 metres high down to the sea. This is where the best surfing is to be had while the west coast offers gentler waves for beginners or kite surfers. In fact if you feel like a little physical exertion then Mauritius is brimming with ideas. For a start there are countless hiking itineraries through the stunning scenery of national parks such as the Black River Gorges and plenty of opportunities for canyoning, kayaking and mountain biking.
But if that sounds a little too energetic then why not get an overview of the situation with a ride in a helicopter, seaplane or light aircraft? Having picked your ideal spot, you can then hire a speed boat to take you there. A popular choice is the ĂŽle aux Cerfs (also known as Deer Island). It is just a short trip away and includes some incredibly beautiful beaches and the Touessrok Hotelâ€™s magnificent 18-hole golf course (one of the top ten in the world according to Golf World magazine). You will need to contact the hotel though to book a round but the club house, Langerâ€™s Grill, is open to all and promises succulent dishes with local and international flavours. Or the Paul et Virginie restaurant on the beach is also very fashionable.
ith so much going on you are unlikely to have much time for retail therapy but a stroll through the various markets and malls in the capital St Louis and other main towns is a fascinating experience. The huge range of items for sale reflects the ethnic mix of the island. The textile industry is important to the Mauritian economy and labels such as Ralph Lauren and Billabong have factories there which explains the bargain prices of polo shirts and cashmere knitwear! As you would expect, there are numerous bars and clubs on the island offering the latest cocktails and some great music in wonderful surroundings. But for a more intimate evening for up to eight you can hire a private launch to take you on a three hour cruise around Mauritius. The 1929-built vessel has been completely restored to provide a truly memorable experience, starting with a welcome cocktail and stopping en route to serve a three-course meal tailored to your taste. What a perfect way to round off a trip to Paradise on earth!
More informations : MTPA Tourism office www.tourism-mauritius.mu
The YU Lounge
endlessly for border control formalities or baggage handling and airline checking. DISCRETE LUXURY Inspired with a soothing and relaxing ambience in mind, the YU Lounge blends contemporary design with luxurious materials where every single detail was catered to make your moment with us as memorable as possible.
Enjoy the finger food gourmet snacks freshly prepared by our in house Chef while sipping our finest wines and beverages selection. Our concierge can also arrange and facilitate your transfer either by limousine or helicopter. YU, it’s all about YOU… For any further information photographs or illustrations please contact:
EXCLUSIVITY Whether you travel with private jets or commercial flights, our customer centric values revolve around Comfort, Exclusivity and Personalised service, with no crowd, no queues and no noise in a relaxed atmosphere, while being catered by the YU Lounge’s attentive concierges offering you an unobtrusive service.
ocated at SSR International Airport, Mauritius, and built by General Aviation (Mauritius) Ltd, the YU Lounge is a private terminal and most importantly, the very best in world class facilities for those travelling either by private jets or commercial flights. HISTORY Opened late 2008, the YU Lounge continues to delight its guests with over 5,000 passengers in 2012, while handling nearly 250 private aircraft in the same year. A WORLD APART Away from the stress of a public terminal, the YU Lounge’s unprecedented 5-star refined and personalised services welcome you on arrivals and steers you through departures, without the need to queue
COMFORT With everything within proximity in a peaceful environment, the YU Lounge offers you the latest in technology such as Bose Dolby sound, Apple iMacs, power trays charging station from Power Kiss and Wi-Fi accessibility. You can access international news via our large magazines and newspapers selection or by scrolling through the channels on our flat screen TVs. The YU Lounge’s luxurious showers and restroom are at your disposal, if you feel like freshening up. Additionally, the exclusive exhibit of Patrick Mavros’ beautiful silver craftsmanship and Chamarel Mauritian rum offers opportunities for additional gifts you may purchase at the YU Lounge in addition to the, on site, duty free shop.
YU LOUNGE by General Aviation(Mauritius) Ltd SSR International Airport Plaine Magnien, Republic of Mauritius Tel: +230 603 6666/67 Fax: +230 603 6677 email@example.com - firstname.lastname@example.org www.yulounge.com
Est. 1968 Genève Suisse
Geneva • Paris • London • New York • Los Angeles • Hong Kong • Dubai and many more .... T F Est. 1968 P.O. Box 1473 12 Avenue Industrielle CH -1211 Geneva 26 Switzerland Ph. : +41 (0)22 301 52 72 Mail: www.tfest1968.com
The "must see" of the Middle East
ith the exception of the magnificent Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, the Emirates Palace has the most beautiful façade in Abu Dhabi. After splashing out an initial US$3 billion, this sumptuous residence designed by Wimberley Allison Tong & Goo requires no less than five kilos of solid gold per year to keep the splendour of its architecture up to its seven-star standard. With its out-size rooms, its Arabian décor and its 24/7 butler service it is simply majestic. Not surprisingly, the Emirates Palace appeals to everyone from French ministers to American stars when they stop by at the new cultural capital of the Persian Gulf. Just marvellous. By Laure Delvigo
The Emirates Palace has all the pedigree of an Arabian thoroughbred and all the vibrant colours that are so characteristic of Arabo-Moorish architecture. As soon as you step into the imperial lobby you are transported into another dimension. The Emirates Palace has taken the very best of Middle Eastern architecture, recreating the splendour of a palace worthy of A Thousand and One Nights. The ochre and sand façades are moulded into enchanted curves, pointed arches and soaring domes. All the wonder of the Persian Gulf is echoed here. Its 394 exquisite rooms and suites, with a view of the sea or the gardens, blend into a beautifully orchestrated harmonious universe. Sandy tones evoke the desert dunes. The precious wood, embroidered fabrics and majestic doors along with the generous chaiseslongues lead to marble baths decorated with gold leaf and showers made from mosaic. The paradisical gardens at the Emirates Palace are dotted with fountains and perfumed patios. In this oasis of luxury, run by the Kempinski Group, youngsters cannot but delight in the West Pool waterfalls with their multitude of water games, while tranquillity is the byword for the wonderful East Pool which resembles a private beach.
Emirates Palace Exterior
nd the wonderful sounds of the Anantara Spa provide surely the sweetest echo of the entire establishment. A true haven of well-being, the spa is a favourite spot for both Arab princesses and beauty fans the world over. The wellheeled play at Cleopatra for a day, swooning in front of a milky bath of rose petals which leaves you with skin as soft as silk and an unforgettable memory. As for getting into shape, there are two gyms, five jogging circuits and four tennis courts, besides the golf course and many nautical activities such as wakeboarding or sailing on offer. New yoga sessions are now also available. We recommend the 90-minute lessons combining Vinyasa and Hatha yoga, together with Pranayama (breathing exercises) and an introduction to meditation. Anantara Spa Hammam
Suite Master Bedroom
hen it comes to dining, the Emirates Palace boasts nine restaurants covering three continents. A trio of Arabian, Mediterranean and Asian flavours can be enjoyed in the open air by the sea or indoors. The Hakkasan merits a special mention. Its service, like its Michelinstarred contemporary Asian cuisine, will leave you speechless. And the Etoiles, with its barocco décor, attracts the Abu Dhabi elite. At tea time, the magic of the Emirates Palace is too much to resist and so you find yourself at "Le Café", enjoying the cool of great rooms reminiscent of colonial India, while fine cigar-lovers gather at the Havana Club, a glass of vintage cognac in hand. With its Coutts Polo, its exclusive Butler Service and its new marina with mooring for yachts over 120 metres, the Emirates Palace is quite simply exceptional. Emirates Palace West Corniche Road P.O.Box - 39999 Tel :+971 2 690 9000 Fax: +971 2 690 9999 email@example.com www.kempinski.com/en/abudhabi From 300 € per night, low season.
Haute Horology & Exquisite Jewellery
2 Marylebone High Street , London , W1U 4NF / Tel: 020 7487 5628 / E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org / www.newcavendishjewellers.com
Le Bar du Bristol The final touch
he final leg of the 100 million euro renovation of Le Bristol Paris was completed with the official opening of "Le Bar du Bristol", marking the arrival of a new top spot on the Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré for Parisians to enjoy a drink.
By Samantha King
Like the hotel’s spa, it is the work of Pierre-Yves Rochon and Mrs Maja Oetker. Their aim was to create a “place of timeless excellence pulsating to the rhythm of the very trendiest Parisian evening haunts”. The décor is both classical and modern. The mural fresco by French artist Thierry Bruet was specially commissioned for the Bar du Bristol and complements the authentic Aubusson tapestry dating back to 1740. The atmosphere is evocative of an English club, while many of the furnishings come from Italy including the marble fireplace, the wall seats and the Giacometti stools. The quality of the décor is matched by that of
the food and drink thanks to an exceptional team. As Best Barman and Craftsman in France in 2011, head barman Maxime Hoerth brings his youth, dynamism, competence and excellent interpersonal skills to the bar. He selects the beverages that fill the purposemade bottle holder and creates his own cocktails such as Bristol Old Fashioned N°1, or Heartbreaker, a long thirst-quenching drink sure to delight cocktail lovers. As for the assorted tapas, they are all validated by Le Bristol’s threeMichelin star Chef Eric Frechon. Maki rolls with spicy ketchup, tartines of duck foie gras and gambas tempura are just some of the
delicacies on offer to accompany cocktail drinks. As if that was not enough, the Bar du Bristol also features a contemporary art programme which changes every month, and an extensive musical programme too. A selection of DJs add their touch from Thursday to Saturday evenings from 9.30 p.m. to 1.30 a.m. Lighting and musical programmes are carefully combined to create a "lounge" or "party" atmosphere with a surprising combination of electronic sounds and vintage moods. Le Bar du Bristol, open seven days a week from 5.30 p.m. to 2 a.m. www.lebristolparis.com
Un domicile d’exception pour des exigences toutes particulières.
Prenez rendez-vous ! Ils sont fin prêts : les chalets de luxe du Golf & Ski Parc Rhodania. Situés au cœur de Crans, entre le centre-ville et le terrain de golf, ils vous réservent une vue époustouflante et des services haut de gamme. L’un des appartements qui nous restent encore pourraient devenir le vôtre. Nous vous attendons.
Marc Lindner Lindner Hotels (Suisse) S.A. Rue du Rhodania 7, CP 63 CH - 3963 Crans-Montana 2
Fixe +41 27 486 92 92 Mobile +41 78 696 30 32 email@example.com
The key to your dreams
er name is held in awe in the hushed world of prestige real estate - Valérie Chandler, she who can hunt out the finest properties on the Saint Tropez peninsula. Not far from Brigit Bardot’s La Madrague, the lady with the key to many a dream let Blush in on a few of her secrets!
By Nicolas Berger.
Valérie, what brought you to real estate? A true attraction for beautiful properties in magical settings combined with the great satisfaction to contribute to my clients’ happiness once we find their dream property. What sets your agency apart from all the others? I am a true multi lingual multi-national French American, therefore I am able to understand the sellers as well as the needs of the buyers. In addition, I pride myself in being a true professional strong with a legal background, a perfect knowledge of the market and a full understanding of local planning rules, real estate tax implications for foreigners. Lastly, my dynamic approach has proven efficient both on the ground and through latest technologies to connect immediately with buyers. Do you think the Real Estate market has evolved over the last few years? In Saint Tropez the market never stops evolving especially in the last decade since International buyers have pretty much cornered the market. Also new technologies have modified our way of working in a significant way. Transactions are now born on the Internet. A serious buyer can short-list a selection of properties in his office in London before actually coming to view. Agencies have to adapt to this new business environment. And now, despite the Saint Tropez market standing up amazingly well to the crisis, some buyers choose the “wait-and-see” approach, betting on an increase in property portfolios leading to a possible but not certain drop in prices!
Why do you think the Saint Tropez peninsula has managed to maintain its legendary aura? Saint Tropez remains a very sought after destination. It’s a label, a brand, and for some a place you simply have to be part of. It draws a high-level foreign clientele looking for exceptional properties. They like the Saint Tropez peninsula for its wonderful beaches but above all for the lifestyle, chic and natural, an urbane take on a village spirit. Nowhere in the world can you find in the same location: a beautiful old village by the sea, a Provencal market, night
clubs, fashionable restaurants and the trendiest boutiques on the planet. Finally, what advice do you have for future buyers? The Saint Tropez Real Estate market can seem complex for an International buyer. Today, more than ever, the buyer needs to select a true Real Estate professional with work ethic, an understanding of local zoning rules, extensive network and a large portfolio of properties. www.valeriechandlerproperties.com
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Эксклюзивный дистрибьютор в России SWM Distribution, (495) 697 0857, 745 4082 www.swmd.ru www.francvila.com / firstname.lastname@example.org
Sensitive capital Who said financiers were austere and forbidding? Stéphane Benhamou, the founder and CEO of Hérios Finance, proves to be a far cry from the cliché. In fact he is both sensitive and accessible. We caught up with a man for whom time is not only money! By Nicolas Berger.
téphane, how did you get to where you are today? After studying at a business school, I decided to specialise in market finance with several international companies. Then in 2005 I founded Hérios Finance. I have always been fascinated by the world of finance because for me it is one of the pillars of the global economy. It is also a fascinating job, the perpetual motion of which gives me a real dynamism, as does being in very close contact with our clients. That is very important to me. You also have to be very reactive and constantly rethink things: the innovative factor is key. In addition, the success of a project in this field is particularly great – the thrill of something real! I believe your wife shares your interests. Sandrine, my wife, is indeed my closest partner. She has a diploma from Lyon business school
and has also worked internationally, especially in Australia as well as for the L’Oréal group. She has a very keen mind for entrepreneurship and development. As Administrative Finance Director she provides an external viewpoint on each market development, an expertise and above all unfailing support! The innovative character of your company is also evident in your choice of office. Is this important to you? We couldn’t find premises that met our requirements and needs so we had an Argentinean architect design our own building. I think it is very important that there is a correlation between our premises and the image of our business. Everything is customised here, just like our services! The space has been designed around transparency and circulation, in a convivial, almost family atmosphere.
What projects do you have coming up? Thanks to Private Placement, our international clientele is growing more and more. As a result we are going to need to open branch offices to be nearer our clients - in Switzerland of course but also in the United States, Russia, China and Dubai. What are your interests besides finance? I am passionate about fine watchmaking and exceptional timepieces. They are jewels and I find their mastery of time reassuring! Also, as you can see by looking round our offices, I really like contemporary art, especially the works of Julie Botton and Carah. One of the works evokes the development of our business in an abstract style. For me Art is a necessity that makes you grow!
By Léa Borie
In the year since it opened its doors, the Corinthia Hotel London has certainly made a name for itself. It stands out majestically, not least because of its striking Victorian architecture, emblematic of the British Empire. Located between Trafalgar Square and Westminster, the building is the ultimate in royal grandeur with a contemporary twist. The post-renovation Corinthia is typical of the best of London hotels, rich in cultural traditions such as the legendary tea time. The Bassoon Bar designed by David Collin Studio and the gorgeous spa with its fairy-like Baccarat chandeliers are just some of the facilities on offer during your stay in an establishment where opulence and attention to detail are all just part of the service. Whitehall Place, London SW1A 2BD, United Kingdom Reservations: email@example.com Tel: +44 (0)20 7930 8181 www.corinthia.com/en/London
Uma By Como
The Lobby Lounge
A new addition to the Como Hotel & Resorts, Uma By Como is the group’s second hotel in Bhutan in southern Asia. This wonderful property is perched on a hillside in the luxuriant Punakha valley, a cultural region whose incredible landscape is making headlines. The understated elegance of the hotel is the work of Malaysian architect Cheong Yew Kwan. The Bukhari bar lounge and the open-plan restaurant offer delicious cuisine flavoured with local produce and Bhutan specialties. Relaxation and health take pride of place here thanks to the well-being facilities which offer a range of treatments. The divine Como Shambhala massage merits a special mention and should ideally be enjoyed after a traditional hot stone bath. A made-to-measure experience to meet the needs and desires of every guest as they explore this exceptional spot. Punakha Valley, Bhutan. Reservation: firstname.lastname@example.org Tel: + 975 8 271597 www.comohotels.com/umapunakha View Room
Radisson Blue Hotel - Nantes This exceptional establishment has reinvented the idea of a luxury hotel. The building itself arouses much curiosity and envy: the only conversion in Europe of a former court of law into a splendid, four-star hotel under the Radisson Blu banner. After 27 months of work, the result is the most beautiful historic hotel in a contemporary style in Europe. In the heart of the 19th century building, the rooms are full of contrasts, bright and richly coloured. The bedrooms, decorated in a chiaroscuro theme, were designed individually by Jean-Philippe Nuel. The restaurant “L’Assise” is appropriately named as it is in the former Assizes courtroom. Here you will find a fusion between Breton traditions, French know-how and Japanese inspiration. The most unusual surroundings are completed by a spa. This really is a perfect dialogue between past and present. Radisson Blu Hotel, Nantes, 12, place Aristide Briand, 44000 Nantes France www.radissonblu.fr/hotel-nantes
Dream houses, spectacular countryside and unique experiences from Marrakesh to Courchevel for a winter on the latitude of luxury.
Vice Versa The Vice Versa is like a secret entrance into an enchanting, multi-faceted universe. This new concept hotel was created by Chantal Thomass. An icon of “sexy-chic” lingerie, this audacious designer decorated the establishment from floor to ceiling. The project, in partnership with the Bagatelle hotel group, has created quite a stir in Paris’s 15th arrondissement, not far from the Porte de Versailles. What stands out is the glamorous chic straight from a jewellery box which provides the setting for the theme of the seven cardinal sins. Like hidden treasure, each area has been thought through down to the last detail, providing a haven from the frenzy the French capital – a place to snuggle up in comfort. We love the fifties ambience of the breakfast, full of armchairs and cupcakes, a wonderful lazy way to enjoy delicious food. How can you resist? 213, rue de la Croix Nivert, 75015 PARIS, France + 33 (0)1 55 76 55 55 www.viceversahotel.com
Breakfast - Photo François Le Prat
Montmartre Mon Amour Paris is the destination for a romantic trip and nowhere more so than in the heart of Montmartre. It is an exquisite spot in the middle of which is nestled this boutique hotel, right by the Sacré Coeur. The 24 rooms have been sensuously decorated by the “atmospherist” Sandrine Alouf, in an ode to love. As you enter the hotel, you are carried away by the romantic setting in which each room is like the pages of a novel full of characters such as Guillaume Apollinaire and Louise de Coligny-Châtillon, Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir and Edith Piaf and Marcel Cerdan. All these legendary couples are illustrated in four variations, “Montmartre Mon Amour”, “Paris Mon Amour”, “Baisers Voles” (stolen kisses) and “Secret d’Amour” (secrets of love). We loved losing ourselves in the tales hidden inside the hotel, stepping inside the poets’ shoes, imagining Paris in bygone days. The subtlety is carried through all the way to the wallpaper, created exclusively by the British company Maraspec. The heart-shaped waffles delight the lovers of beauty and fine food. Montmartre Mon Amour, or my divine idyll?
Suite Paul et Arthur - Photo Christophe Bielsa
7 rue Paul Albert - 75018 Paris –France TEL: +33 (0)1 46 06 03 03 Reservations: email@example.com www.hotelmontmartremonamour.com
Legend A wonderful hotel full of magical tales, in a dreamlike setting on the Left Bank. This universe of Celtic legend inspired by the chivalrous Knights of the Round Table is the work of Virginie Cauet, an interior designer with a mischievous imagination. The 34 rooms have been decorated with understated taste, blending fine materials and sophisticated lighting. The Legend, Narcisse and Echo rooms as well as the majestic Dreamcatcher suite envelop the guest in a mysterious atmosphere, swathed in voluptuousness. Inspired by the grace of nymphs, Legend is an elegant illustration of this fairy-like spot. 151 Rue de Rennes 75006 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 97 38 www.legendhotelparis.com/fr
Suite Dreamcatcher - Photo: SergeRamelli
the imagination 5.
aced with a world where everything is standardised, we prefer exuberance over minimalism. The old, the new and the contemporary all have their place in a quirky lifestyle. Archetypal and molecular shapes refer back to the elements: earth, wind, fire and water. A mix of light and heavy, strength and transparency, force and fluidity â€“ a new generation of objects are an invitation to daydream. A most desirable art of living. By Laure Delvigo
9. 6. 7. 8.
1.Leone Villari - Limited Editions : new colors 2.Jaune de Chrome - Vase célèbes or extra mat 3.MARIO CIONI & C. - GOMITOLO'S VASE 4.MARIO CIONI & C. - LUXE' BOWL 5.Jean-Claude CARDIET - LUSTRE PAMPILLE 6.Jean BOGGIO - Pomegranate Teapot 7.NIKKO - Blossom Goldline 8.DUPONT BERLIN 9.JEAN BOGGIO FOR FRANZ - Collection "Luxury, Calm and voluptuousness" 10.tittot - Montagne 11.Alexander Pelikan - Element(s) 12.HAVILAND - matignon 135
or the brilliance of genius
unning through to March 25, the Pompidou Centre is paying homage to one of the most complex and prolific artists of the 20th century: Salvador Dalí. The aim of this major retrospective is to focus on how the works reveal his personality; the signs of genius as well as the excesses. Touring a Dalian labyrinth. By Nicolas Berger.
Salvador Dalí, Étude pour « Le Miel est plus douce que la sang » [sic], 1926, Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, Figueres © Salvador Dalí, Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí /Adagp, Figueres, Paris 2012
Salvador Dalí, Aurore, midi, après-midi et crépuscule, 1979, Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, Figueres © Salvador Dalí, Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí / Adagp Paris 2012
hat do we remember when we think of the divine Dalí remembered at the beginning of the 21st century? His famous moustaches, his love of money (André Breton nicknamed him “Avida Dollars”) his repeated provocations? Some still like to pigeon-hole him in this caricature of an eccentric surrealist. And yet...
The living work In one of his incendiary essays Salvador Dalí wrote: “Since childhood, I always had this turn of mind in that I considered myself different from common mortals.” The Spaniard never stopped exploring this feeling of being different, this overdevelopment of self, in his paintings of course but also in his famous Diary of a Genius which covers the years 1952 to 1963. But to this narcissistic explorer should be added true and completely protean creative vision, and this exhibition perfectly captures that. More than 200 works (paintings, sculptures and drawings) are displayed in a chrono-thematic way, building a dialogue between the eye and the mind of the painter and the spectator; Dalí, pioneer of performance art, author of ephemeral works, manipulator of the media considering art a form of global communication, the interrogation of the figure of the artist facing tradition. In fact, Dalí constantly “walks” the spectator between two infinities, from the infinitely small to the infinitely big, the contraction and dilation which polarise: the minute Flemish precision (a reference to Vermeer) and the spectacular baroque of old paintings which he uses in his Museum Theatre in Figueres. This oscillation is based on a general questioning of identity in a world of doubles: his dead brother, also called Salvador, the dream-reality duo, hermaphroditism. This “between-two” attitude is also a moment in history for a generation: between two wars, the rise of totalitarianism, ideological confrontations, migrations, crossovers on the artistic scene (Paris/Barcelona/New York).
Among the masterpieces on display there are some iconic works of the 1930s – The Persistence of Memory (Melting Clocks), The Great Masturbator, The Spectre of Sex Appeal and Endless Enigma. There are also hundreds of works on paper, objects and ideas for the theatre or cinema, films, photographs and clips from television shows which portray the intensity of the “human spectacle” that Dalí also represents. The exhibition also includes numerous ephemeral works carried out by Dalí in front of a camera revealing him to be a pioneer in the field of performance art and happenings!
© Photo by Philippe Halsman © Halsman Archive / Magnum Photos. Image rights of Salvador Dali reserved. Fundacio Gala-Salvador Dalí, Figueres, 2012.
Paranoid-critic The young Dalí was passionate about the latest developments in psychoanalysis in which he looked for a scientific base for his pictorial research into fantasy and madness. He boasted at one point of
taking part in theoretical research and published some papers. He made great efforts to meet Sigmund Freud, something that was finally made possible through a mutual friend Stefan Zweig in London in 1938. Dalí gives a humorous account of the meeting in which he attempts to present his scientific work to an ageing and ailing Freud who is only interested in Dalí’s appearance. Freud later tells Zweig: "I have never seen a more complete example of a Spaniard. What a fanatic!" This interest in inner power led to his adherence to surrealism and, therefore, to his first blasphemous works: a revolt against the authority of the father, an identity crisis and allusions to coprophagy. The paranoid-critic method transforms and subverts the world. Dalí suggests substituting surrealism for passive automatism (automatic drawing, exquisite corpses, rubbings etc.) an active method based on the madness of paranoid interpretation. In one sense, the Dalian method anticipated the publication of Jacques Lacan’s thesis on paranoia by several years. The most famous example of the process remains Angelus of Millet: Dalí turns art historian and goes in search of scientific verification of his interpretation on canvas. We know the rest. Thanks to this wonderful retrospective, the Pompidou Centre allows us to reconsider, if need be, the Dalí as an artist and a man; his incredible modernity which reaches far beyond surrealism or the clichés to which he is sometimes limited today. Especially in this sadly conformist time, we should not forget the master’s famous declaration in May 1968: “Where the Cultural Revolution goes, the fantastic should sprout up.” Now that’s a motto! DALÍ Until March 25, 2013 Pompidou Centre Place Georges Pompidou 75004 Paris France
o u have doubtless fallen in love with Ralph Lauren’s New York window display. It is in part due to Linda Horn and the amazing antiques of her boutique! Which she lends them for their windows. Drop-bead chandeliers, bronze scent vaporizers, rococo sculptures and lacquered screens, her Manhattan store is a waking dream, a timeless baroque boudoir packed with curiosities and antiques from all over the world. A renowned interior designer and collector, Linda used to work in film variously as director, producer and behind the camera. She was even editor-in-chief of a fashion magazine. The common thread linking all these activities is her passion for beautiful things of course. And somehow it is no surprise when she as a young girl, she studied ballet under George Balanchine, one of the greatest choreographers of the last century! Linda Horn’s home and store are a stunning mix of unique and wonderful items, old and new, picked up from around the world, which combine to produce a coherent and refined ensemble. They are also a testimony to her unfailing eye and reliable taste. Two words sum up the ambiance: eclectic and chic! If you ask Linda where she learned all this she will tell you – smilingly - it was at the school of hard knocks and that there is no better training than that in the art of survival. “You listen, you absorb, you learn and you create,” she says. And now this passionate beauty-lover lets you in on her secrets. By Yvo Deprelle
The photographer Ron Contarsy took some superb shots of your New York showroom: screens, scent burners, chandeliers, sculptures, you have some magnificent items! Would you agree your universe seems very baroque? I feel that my universe is constantly changing. I’d like to think that I’m not stuck in one period. I am constantly evolving. I’ll see a tree in a meadow… and it gives me an idea about some shape or design. I have always loved the 19th century decorative period. But I also like the simplicity of the Modern period. When I walk into an environment, I am influenced by its shape and design…the bones of it…that is what I am interested in. Then it is important to see the people who are living in this environment… how they see, feel, how they live, what their needs are for their surroundings. Do you travel the world over to find these treasures? Absolutely…there is no other way I know to find one-of-a-kind and fascinating objects! You may find a couple of things in France, then another item in England…you are constantly going all over. It is only when I sit in my store and gaze at the incredible assortment that has come together from all over the world…that I realize what an amazing thing…people from all generations have created these miraculous treasures! I’ve always wanted to write a book about the artists and unsung heroes…all those amazing artists…items unsigned…that created specific pieces…in silver, ceramic, mirror, marble…in marquetry and bamboo…along with many, many sparkling crystal chandeliers.
What are your influences? My background…being one of dance and fashion…I find that I’m always influenced when I’m in the fashion capitols of the world…the colors, the shapes, the retro designs, the most far out contemporary things imaginable. I think that there is no question that what is the current fashion has a definite influence on décor and home design…both in periods, shapes and colors.” The 1950s, 60s and 70s regularly come back in fashion in interior design. What do you think of this trend? I, myself, do not have any love for this period: the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s. To me they are sort of transit periods that passed thru our lives and did not make a big impression on mine. I think that some of the things coming from the new young designers that use that period are interesting… and I like some of the new work. I do like the 30’s and 40’s design more.
You travel a great deal around the world; Europe, Asia and Africa. What is your favorite place? My favorite place changes from moment to moment…from time to time…it’s governed by the experiences…visual and emotional…that surround you at the time!. You have worked in television and for the fashion press. Is there any other career you would have liked to have had? I would have liked to have been an architect. I’ve designed and built many small buildings…just sketched things out as I sat at my kitchen table. I’ve used natural elements from the land…stone, logs, branches. My latest projects include creating stone waterfalls…and follies…natural wood bridges. Using stone from the property, I designed a small stone house with an undulating wood shingled roof to resemble an old English cottage. I love where my life has taken me so far…but I can’t wait for my next adventure!
Home to the super natural!
If ever there was a curiosity shop then this is it. For those looking for something out of the ordinary to do in Paris, Maison Deyrolle is just as fascinating now as it was when it was founded in 1831. Step into another world. By Nicolas Berger Photos Marc Dantan
There is something surprising, mysterious, almost magical, about the building itself. For more than 150 years, the Deyrolle boutique has been an obligatory stop for any self-respecting naturalist, entomologist or anatomist. But not just for them. In fact, with its animals which seem more alive than dead and its other peculiarities, Deyrolle attracts a wide spectrum of visitors. Painters such as Bernard Buffet, Mathieu, surrealists such as Dali or Breton, writers like Louise de Vilmorin or philosophers including Théodore Monod have all been regulars. You could almost say the building has something mythical about it; a cross between a museum of the imaginary and a vast cabinet of curiosities. Indeed, it is in the very spirit of these premises where curious travellers and Nature collectors accu-
mulated all kinds of riches – that one can find at Deyrolle’s an astonishing mix of mineral collections, mounted ostrich eggs, precious objects or paintings, collages of butterfly wings, strange stuffed or naturalised birds, segmented insects mounted under glass globes as they were in the 19th century, osteological pieces, faunal antiquities and much more … And there are also unique pieces such as sea stars and spiders’ neural systems. While Deyrolle handed them out liberally in the past, they are now considered museum pieces. It was in 1888 that the Deyrolle Company, under the management of the founder’s grandson, finally settled on the left bank in a town house built for the son of one of Louis XIV’s bankers. The clientele was never just one of enthusiasts or hunters. Deyrolle aimed above all at teachers. Other than scientific material (collections of minerals, shells, butterflies and insects, herbariums, microscopic slides and a number of specialised works) the company was soon supplying all the schools and universities in France with pedagogical boards and wall maps which would be used by generations of teachers to illustrate their lessons. In 2001, Prince Louis-Albert de Broglie became the new owner of Deyrolle. It is hardly
surprising given how many Broglies have been scientists – one is even a Nobel Prize winner – and that the Prince is the creator of the “Prince Jardinier” store, now a byword for elegance in the art of the garden. The Maison suffered devastating damage during a fire in 2008 and literally millions of exhibits were destroyed. While many feared it was the end of an extraordinary tale, but a Christie’s auction helped raise the necessary funds to restore the building and replace the antique glass display cabinets which now house new exhibits. Maison Deyrolle now hosts several artistic installations every year in recognition of all those who helped save the “wonder rooms”, exhibiting works it feels are close to its universe.
Opening hours Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 7pm. Boutique Deyrolle 46, rue du Bac 75007 Paris Tel: +33 (0)1 42 22 30 07 141
Impact Deco And the dream comes true
ylvie Bussière, the designer of the Aix-enProvence-based Impact Déco brand, opens the doors to an enchanting and wonderful universe inhabited by a surprising collection of life-sized ornaments. From mice to hippopotamuses via the iconic Marilyn Monroe, your favourite beauties rub shoulders with all sorts of beasts, real and imaginary, all just waiting to add that original touch to your home or garden. Each customisable piece is made in ultra-strong fibreglass resin. And given imagination has no limits, cows come in leopard skin while zebras are adorned with dozens of kaleidoscopic flowers. Let your imagination run wild and give free rein to your ideas. Impact Déco will take care of everything!
Impact déco Contact : Sylvie Bussière Tél. : 00 33 4 82 53 38 94 Tél. : 00 33 6 20 55 06 77 www.impactdeco.fr Distribution exclusive Saint-Tropez Les pépinières Saint- Anne Route des Plages 83 350 Ramatuelle Tél. : 00 33 4 94 96 95 01 Portable : 00 33 6 15 58 63 36
Fall under the spell!
In these rather morose times, nothing boosts morale or lifts the spirit like a venture back into the magical world of fairytales. Whether delightful or disturbing, raise a glass to the enchantment of Art in every form. Dream away! By Nicolas Berger.
© The British Museum, Londres, Dist. RMN / The Trustees of the British Museum
Le Cantique des oiseaux d’‘Attâr illustrated by Eastern Islam painting
New translation in verse by Leili Anvar Diane de Selliers, 195 euros until January 31, 2013 then 230 euros Written in Persian at the end of the 12th century, Le Cantique des Oiseaux (The Conference of the Birds) really is a mystical epic. These magnificent writings recount the journey of thousands of birds – metaphors for the soul – towards the Supreme Being, Sîmorgh. Leili Anvar, a Professor in Persian literature, took on the huge task of translating the alexandrine rhythms
of the 9,448 verses of the poem. It took four years to complete the task, four years during which she lavished learning and love on a work that came to inhabit and transform her. The result is wonderful, faithful to the letter and spirit of d''Attâr, illustrated with 207 Turkish, Afghan and Indo-Pakistani miniatures from the 14th to the 17th century, kept safe in private collections, libraries and museums around the world. Michael Barry provides erudite commentary on this precious iconography. The art historian is a specialist in Oriental civilisations. A treasure as beautiful as it is spiritual!
By Amélie Nothomb Albin Michel, 16.50 euros Reinterpreting the famous tale by Charles Perrault, the fantastical Belgian writer is on better form than ever. In this contemporary version of Blue Beard, her verve and delicious black humour shines through in a face-to-face, the intensity of which is reminiscent of her first work, Hygiene and the Assassin. Here we are confronted with Don Elemirio, a Spanish grandee and
a true pervert, and his intrepid housemate, Saturnine. The setting for the intrigue is a sumptuous Parisian residence, the lair of this modern-day Jean Des Esseintes whose obsessions are troubling to say the least. Will Saturnine become his ninth victim? Despite a rather hasty conclusion, Nothomb remains the queen of decadence and enigmas.
Les bijoux de Chanel By Patrick Mauriès La Martinière, 80 euros
We all know the Gabrielle Chanel of the suit, the little black number, the severe lines, the sober fabrics, the rigour and the black and white. But we are less familiar with Coco of the baroque, of golden wood, of shiny gloss, of rococo mirrors and sparkling jewellery, the fun and wild Coco, full of contrasts. In this book Patrick Mauriès brings to life this little known side of the legendary designer by revealing the numerous pieces of
jewellery she created throughout her life. From the “fantasy jewellery” that she managed to impose on everybody, to luxurious and refined jewellery, this work includes all the creations of Chanel, who liked to say they should be considered “with innocence, with naivety just as you delight at an apple tree in blossom at the side of the road as you rush by in a car”.
Tim Walker, Story Teller By Robin Muir Thames & Hudson, 60 euros.
One of the most exciting photographers working today, Tim Walker transforms fashion shoots into real fairytales. We contemplate the ogres, skeletons, giant wasps, robots, dolls, headless bodies and outsize owls that people his dreamlike universe with a mixture of delight and awe. All these accessories are carefully chosen to sublimate key figures of contemporary
culture such as Alber Elbaz, Alexander McQueen, Helena Bonham Carter, Vivienne Westwood, David Lynch, Stella Tennant and Tilda Swinton. Kate Bush provides the foreword and the work includes an introduction by Robin Muir and an epilogue by Walker himself, who also adds a few personal comments on photography throughout the book. Fascinating!
Les Charmeurs de pierres By Brigitte Fontaine Flammarion, 17 euros
As well as being the quirky singer we all know, Brigitte Fontaine is also a wonderful author as Charmeurs de pierres (The Stone Charmer) shows. Exploring her Breton roots, here she offers a fairy-like Celtic novel, pure phantasmagoria, as she knows so well how to do. Spectators in a strange theatre, she tells of the loves and adventures and the exploits and trials of Bedjaïa
and Ivor. Backstage we find the mystic concerns of the writer and the text can be read as a quest for transcendence. But the golden legend she weaves with her words blends ancient myths with intended anachronism, ancient custom with a certain eroticism. A punk poet, Brigitte Fontaine surprises and enchants us once more.
Love looks not with the eyes, Lee Alexander McQueen By Anne Deniau La Martinière, 60 euros
Fashion’s enfant terrible, Alexander McQueen (1969-2010) combined aesthetic vision, emotional power, and extraordinary craft. He was especially known for staging provocative shows that were as much performances as venues to display his designs. Charged with energy, informed by history and culture, and filled with fresh concepts, they have become leg-
ends not only of fashion but also of art. The only photographer allowed backstage, Anne Deniau documented these shows for 13 years, capturing the designer at work and those around him including Kate Moss. This marvellous work reflects the work of McQueen as closely as possible and invites the reader into the designer’s inner circle and pays vibrant homage to this fiercely rock artist.
Les départs exemplaires By Gabrielle Wittkop Verticales, 17.90 euros
A gentleman spy disappears in the Malaysian jungle taking his secrets with him. A young woman from a good family lies dying at the top of a tumbledown tower overlooking the Rhine. Alcohol gets the better of a dark-eyed writer in an alley in Baltimore. An insignificant salesman ends his days a tramp in the bowels of New York. Hermaphrodite twins of noble
background are cold-bloodedly assassinated in their carriage. A mix of dark romanticism, gothic expressionism and sadistic delectation, these five tales – two of which are new – are the latest example of Gabrielle Wittkop’s poisonous charm. Her macabre and refined prose is invaluable and caustic – writing to send a velvet shiver down your spine!
Gustav Klimt: The Complete Paintings By Tobias G. Natter Taschen, 150 euros
During his lifetime, Klimt was a controversial artist who made passions run high; he stood for Modernism but he also embodied tradition. His pictures polarized and divided the art-loving world. Journalists and general public alike were split over the question: For or against Klimt? The present publication therefore places particular emphasis upon the voices of Klimt's contemporaries via a series of essays examining reactions to his
work throughout his career, from his portraits of women to the landscapes he painted in the later stages. The theory that Gustav Klimt was a man of few words is severely challenged: no less than 179 letters, cards and other writings — making up almost the entirety of known Klimt correspondence — are included in this monograph. An unparalleled work that transports us to our delight to Vienna 1900. 145
Pan-fried fillet of Turbot Pumpkin purée
Fillet of Turbot: 180gr Pumpkin Gnocchi: 60gr Pumpkin purée: 30 gr Peeled tomato: 1 Chopped onion: 1 Cherry tomato: 1 Créole sauce: 20gr Thyme: 3gr Beetroot wafer: 1 Olive oil: 8 gr Mascarpone: 10gr Beetroot: 1pcs Parsley: 2 gr Fresh ginger: 1gr Butter: 40gr
By Jérôme Rigaud, Chef, Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa, Mauritius.
an-fry the Turbot on both sides and place in the oven. Make the pumpkin purée and add the mascarpone. Fry the gnocchi, onions, tomatoes and chopped parsley in the olive oil. Dress the plate with the pumpkin purée then the gnocchi before placing the Turbot on top and finally the beetroot wafer. Decorate with the cherry tomatoes and herbs. Make a beurre blanc with the ginger and spoon over the Turbot.
Inaugurates its Place Vendôme boutique On the eve of celebrating the 180th anniversary of its Manufacture, Jaeger-LeCoultre set a rendezvous with fine watchmaking lovers at No. 7, Place Vendôme, the new flagship boutique covering an impressive 500 m2. Jérôme Lambert, Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO, inaugurated this exceptional venue that reflects the prestige of the House. Joining him in cutting the ribbon were Diane Kruger - a friend of Jaeger-LeCoultre and the face of its ladies’ collection - and Guillain Maspetiol, JaegerLeCoultre Brand Manager for France. There were more than 800 guests, including Catherine Deneuve, Carmen Chaplin, Isabelle Huppert, Inès de la Fressange, Vincent Perez, José Luis Rebordinos, Olga Sorokina, and Marina Hands. They received a warm welcome at the Place Vendôme and celebrated the occasion at the Grand Hotel where the evening continued with cocktails and a show including circus performers and an equestrian display.
4. 3. 6.
16. 1.Nathalie Duchene, Elodie Yung, Caroline Tillette - 2. Diane Kruger (C), Guillain Maspetiol (L), Director General France of Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Jerome Lambert, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre. - 3. Arnault Lemaire - 4. Actor Patrick Timsit, fashion designer Barbara Bui and Raphael Mezrahi. - 5. Gregory Fitoussi - 6. Diana Gartner and Manuel de Dietrich - 7. Alexis Mabille et Marie Beltrami - 8. Priscilla de Laforcade - 9. Diane Kruger - 10. Thierry Neuvic - 11. Alexandra Golovanoff - 12. Frederic Neefs and Isabelle de Sejournet (d'Hauteville) - 13. Ariane Massenet - 14. Inès De La Fressange - 15. Isabelle Huppert, Catherine Deneuve, Diane Kruger and Jerome Lambert - 16. Vincent Perez - 17. Priscilla De Laforcade. 150
TogeTher we’ll creaTe a legend. If you’ve ever had the desire to own a truly unique boat, a hand-crafted, sleek and beautiful piece of functional sculpture, built to your own design, specifications and budget, a vessel that will never be duplicated or copied, come and talk to Legend.
If you can dream it, we can build it. FROM BLuEpRInT TO adREnaLIn. our craftsmen start by personally living your dream; our portfolio of original work often leading and guiding the project. we then perfect the designs and plans with your input along the way, before building the ultimate statement in customised luxury.
It’s an experience everyone should have at least once in their life; however, it will always remain a rare and exclusive privilege. If such thoughts set your pulse racing, a call to our chief designer could be the start of an adventure that will never end.
Boatworld Office, Kapu Kai Complex, Royal Road, Grand-Baie, Mauritius - Tel: (+230) 234 4922 - Fax: (+230) 234 4743 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org - Website: www.legend-boats.com
“Star light” Backstage It is at Le Bristol that photographer Sandra Fourqui captured the feline look of the sublime Kriss from Karin Models. Couture gowns and precious stilettos and even Fa-Raon, the luxury hotel’s famous cat joined the Blush team for a fashion shoot where glamour reigned!
Sandra Fourqui Photo Shoot in the Bristol Bar
Photos by Léa Borie.
Kriss, Laure Delvigo ( Blush ) and the Fa-Raon cat ( Bristol )
Thibault Series An expert in fine jewellery and other luxury settings, Thibault Breton has come up with a fantastical series for Blush in which Magpies swoop on the most beautiful safes from Paris to Munich via Geneva and carry their treasures off to an enchanted forest. A fairy tale secret is told to you in pictures.
Photos by Aurélie Laurent.
w w w. b r m - m a nu fa c t u re . c o m For stockist enquiries please telephone +33 (0)1 61 02 00 25
Your Horoscope By Mister Mystery
Aries (March 21 – April 20)
Taurus (April 21 – May 21)
Gemini (May 22 – June 21)
Cancer (June 22 – July 22)
A minor family conflict risks sapping your morale and worrying you more than it should do from the end of November. The fact is, you take things very much to heart and, under the Moon's influence, you tend to let your emotions get the better of you. Fortunately, the invigorating effect of Mars, your planet, will give you a boost from January and you will rediscover your strengths and your ability to rationalise.
This autumn you will find yourself taking a particular interest in your friends and your social networks. Indeed, it is through them that you may receive an interesting proposition or simply enjoy some very pleasant moments. Unexpected invitations will come thicker and faster than usual at the beginning of December. Make sure, however, you find time for a little peace and quiet.
Construction, both professional and personal, will be very much the focus of the coming months in your case. From November it will be time to start setting up projects and turning ideas into reality. You will have the support of Jupiter in this. The planet's powerful rays will protect you right up until mid-February. Make the most of this auspicious time - go for it!
Uranus arrives in your sign from the end of December, bringing a real breath of fresh air. You will feel extremely at ease with yourself and will be delighted to note that this increases your influence on your entourage. Until then, autumn should be relatively peaceful, with the focus remaining on those projects that mean the most to you. However, make sure you don't turn into a hermit!
Leo (July 23 – August 23)
Virgo (August 24 – September 23)
Libra (September 24 – October 22)
Scorpio (October 23 – November 22)
Jupiter will soon fill your sign with all its beneficial properties. From midDecember you will also be under the influence of Pluto, synonymous with deep fulfilment and a lasting psychological reinforcement. You will be in a position of strength both on a personal and a professional level. Pluto's influence could also indicate the beginning of a radical change or development.
This winter you will show real determination: nothing and no-one will manage to change your mind and some people will hold this against you. But stubbornness is a double-edged sword that can sometimes be useful but may also work against you. You need to weigh up the pros and cons! On the sentimental front, single Virgos may find something to smile about in February which could well bring an unexpected, and pleasant, encounter.
The coming months will be full of excitement for you. Many of you will become passionate about a certain person, a cause or something in the news. You will think of nothing else and you will live this moment intensely. The influx of Venus on your sign could lead to a winter of sentimental osmosis - tenderness by the fireside. Seize the moment and express your feelings!
From January a certain hyper-sensitivity will mean you react to the slightest provocation, especially those born after November 6. Your relationships will sometimes be explosive, but matters shouldn't get too out of hand as your bursts of temper will be shortlived and they will be over as quickly as they started. What's more, your creative powers will be tenfold.
Capricorn (December 22 – January 20)
Aquarius (January 21 – February 18)
Pisces (February 19 – March 20)
Issues of power, rivalry and jealousy will be on the agenda, particularly around December 20. Watch out for low blows and betrayals. In fact it could be that someone is trying to trip you up. Fortunately on the sentimental front the person you cherish the most will be looking out for you, especially those born in the second decan.
This Autumn Saturn will encourage you to take a step back and think about your true aspirations. It might be time to call time on certain relationships that do you more harm than good - especially as the stars point to an unexpected encounter at the end of December, just as the Sun enters your sign. At work you will feel the need to reorganise things and your bosses will support you in this.
Your amiability and flexibility will help you achieve pretty much everything you set your heart on in the coming months! Negotiation, mediation and conciliation - not usually your strong points - should work out in your favour and to your satisfaction, especially for those born in the month of February. In short, success is on its way and in matters of the heart as well!
You will expend a phenomenal amount of energy taking care of those you hold dear. This is especially true of Pisceans born in the first decan. You probably won't notice it but you will systematically put the happiness of others before your own! It is very honourable of you to pamper loved ones but be wary of it becoming automatic, above all as the influx of Jupiter could well bring a promotion which will require a great deal of energy.
Hublot Classico Ultra-Thin Skeleton King Gold. Mécanique ultra-fine réalisée dans un nouvel alliage unique, le King Gold. Cadran squelette. Bracelet en caoutchouc et alligator noir.
10, Place Vendôme • 271, rue Saint-Honoré twitter.com/hublot •