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Pip Squeak Baby Name Quilts

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Name Garlands


Diaper Bags, Diaper € / Wipes Quick Totes, Binky Bags € / Changing Pads


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Baby Girl Name Announcement Quilts

Soft Blocks

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Baby Boy Name Announcement Quilts

Soft Blocks


Sweet Baby Organizer Gift Totes

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Sweet Baby Stitcheries

BY N a n c y H alvorsen 32552 00532


W in so m e B a b y Designs by Nancy Halvorsen Table o f Contents General In stru ctio n s........................................ 2 m p Squeak Baby Nam e Quilts .......................... 3,14-24 Nam e G a rla n d .................................................. 5,16-24 D iaper B a g .........................................................6, 25 Changing P a d ................................................... 7, 25 Binky B a g s ......................................................... 8, 26 D iaper & W ipes Quick Totes ............................9,27-28 D ribble Bibs ..................................................... 10, 29-31 Baby Announcement Q u ilts ..............................10, 32-33 Soft B lo ck s.........................................................11, 34-35 Sweet Baby O rganizer Gift T o t e s .................... 12, 36 Sweet Baby Stitcheries .................... ............... 13, 36 \lsit A rt to H eart on the w eb at: www.arttoheart-com A hahy is a \issfrom heaven! I'm a grandma now and I'm in love with babies even more. Ma\e something w o^erful for your baby, grandbdby or a friend with these 17 sweet projects. They are made using my new "V/insome" fabric line for Benartex. Kisses to my two new grandbabies...Will and Bree! A spedal thanks to "Babinski's Gkiod Stuff for Baby" for the baby furniture in the photos. FindthematBabinskis.com. And to Baby Heirlooms for some of the baby accessories. www.babyheirlooms.com, 1'800'340'8838

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© 2007 Nancy H[alvorsen All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced mechanically, electroni­ cally or by any other means, including photocopsring, without the written permission of Art to Heart. The information presented in this book is presented in good faitii, but no guarantee is given due to the fact that we have no control over techniques and materials used. Classes based on patterns in this book must require every student to purchase their own book. It is illegal for teachers to copy or rewrite these instructions in any way for distrlbutipn to students. Finished projects created from these patterns may be sold up to 10 times each without permission from Art to Heart.

A r t -t o H EA R T Nancy Halvorsen » P.O. Box 1004 ¥ Layton UT 84041-1004 ¥ (801)544'5511 fex (801)544'3632


General Instructions Read all instructions completely before beginning your project and before begin­ ning each step. Purchase 100% cotton fabric. Prewash and iron all fabrics. All seams are an exact 1/4”. The mea­ surements given already include the seam allowance. Press each seam as you go.

Fusible Applique V Fusible applique is shown although you may use other applique methods i f desired. AU o f the applique designs in the book are reversed so they will face the correct direction when ironed onto your projecL The applique shapes are overlapped as they are positioned in each project. Special hints are given on the applique pages to help trace and position the applique pieces. Trace all pieces o f the design to the paper side o f the fusible web. Hint: When you have many small sim­ ilar pieces to applique, the pieces are numbered. Write the number o f each piece and don't peel the paper backing until you’re ready to applique. Trace the embroidery lines to aU applique pieces and the eyes and noses onto the face pieces.

Arrange pieces onto your quilt block, positioning background pieces first, then work forward overlap­ ping pieces as shown. Fuse with your iron follow­ ing manufacturers instructions. Finish edges with a machine blanket stitch or a hand running stitch if desired. Hint: I like to use the AppKque Pressing Sheet™ by Bear Thread Designs. You can easily position the applique pieces and fuse them together before you fuse them to your project. (Available from Besr Thread Designs, product #206, 281-462-0661.)

Transferring verses and em broidery lines V Transfer embroidery lines on applique pieces fol­ lowing the instructions for Fusible Applique. To transfer the embroidered words or lines to a backgroimd piece, you can lay the backgrotmd over the verse or embroidery lines and trace with a light fine pencil line (use a mechanical pencil) or a dis­ appearing ink marking pen. Use a light colored marking pencil for dark fabrics. Holding the fabric up to a window, or using a light table, will help you to trace the lines if the fabric is too opaque. You can also transfer the lines with washable non permanent transfer paper.

Em broidery Stitches V

Cut out the pieces leaving approximately 1/4” around the shapes. (See figure 1) b a c k s t it d i Iron the fusible web pieces, paper side up, onto the wrong side of selected fabrics follow­ ing manufacturers directions. Let cool. Cut pieces out directly on the tracing lines. (See figure 2) Transfer the eyes and embroi­ dery lines to the front o f the fabric with a light, fine pencil line or marking pen. Hint: If there are cheeks that need to be blushed, I like to do it now so I don’t get blush anywhere but on the cheeks. Use a dry stencil brush and Delta Antique Rose acrylic paint to stipple the cheeks. Blot the brush on a paper towel until the paint is almost worn off but transfers smoothly, not blotchy. Fuse the design together.

running stitch

blanket stitch

M aking a Tem plate V Make a template for pattern pieces that require one by tracing the pattern piece onto template plastic, or trace the piece to fusible web. Cut out the piece leaving approximate^ 1/4” around the shape and iron the fusible web to a piece of poster board or heavy card stock. Cut along traced lines. Use these templates to trace the patterns to the wrong side of your fabrics.


Pip Squeak Baby Name Quilts

Block 8:

(1) 1-1/2" X 3-1/2" center (2) 2" X 3-1/2" first border sides (2) 2" X 4-1/2" first top and bottom (2) 1-1/2” X 6-1/2" second border sides (2) 1-1/2" X 6-1/2" second top and bottom

Block 9:

(1) 1-1/2" x 4-1/2" center (2) 2-1/2" X 4-1/2" first border sides (2) 2-1/2" X 5-1/2" first top and bottom (2) 1-1/2" X 8-1/2" second border sides (2) 1-1/2" X 7-1/2" second top and bottom

Approxim ate size: 40" x 52" Quilts were charmingly quilted by Catherine Timmons of Cat’s Attic guilting, Bountiful, UT.

Materials Needed V V 1/4 yard or fat quarters o f several assorted fabrics for quilt blocks (choose light color fabrics for the cen­ ter blocks that have words appUqued or embroidered) r 1/4 yard or fat quarter for name applique »1 / 4 yard for inside border V 1 yard for outside border and bias binding r 1-5/8 yard for backing ¥ 44" X 56" batting Vfusible web V DMC floss #936 (green)

Cutttng: V Block 1:

Block 2:

Block 3: Block 4:

(1) 3-1/2" x 4-1/2" center (2) 1-1/2" x 4-1/2" first border sides (2) 1-1/2" X 5-1/2" first top and bottom (2) 2-1/2" X 6-1/2" second border sides (2) 2-1/2" X 9-1/2" second top and bottom (1) 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" center (2) 2" x 5-1/2" first border sides (2] 2" X 4-1/2" first top and bottom (2) 1-1/2" X 8-1/2" second border sides (2) 1-1/2" X 6-1/2" second top and bottom (1) 3-1/2" X 11-1/2" (1) 3-1 /2” x 7-1 /2" center (2) 2-1/2" x 3-1/2" border sides (2) 2-1/2" X 11-1/2" top and bottom

Blocks 5 & 11:

Block 6:

Block 7:

(1) 2-1/2" x 10-1/2" center (2) 2-1/2" x 10-1/2" border sides (2) 2-1/2" X 6-1/2" top and bottom

(1) 2-1/2" x 8-1/2" center (2) 2-1/2" X 8-1/2" border sides (2) 2-1/2" X 6-1/2" top and bottom (1) 4-1 /2” x 12-1 /2" center (2) 2-1/2" X 4-1/2" first border sides (2) 2-1/2" X 16-1/2" first top and bottom (2) 1-1/2" X 8-1/2" second border sides (2) 1-1/2" X 18-1/2" secx)nd top and bottom (2) 1-1 /2" X 10-1 /2" third bonier sides (2) 1-1/2" X 20-1/2" third top and bottom

Block 10: (1) 2-1/2” x 3-1/2" center (2) 2" X 3-1 /2" first border (2) 2" X 5-1/2" first border (2) 2-1/2" X 6-1/2" second (2) 2-1/2" X 9-1/2" second

sides top and bottom border sides top and bottom

Block 12: (1) 2-1/2" x 5-1/2" center (2) 3" X 2-1/2" border sides (2) 3" X 10-1/2" border top and bottom Block 13: (1) 2-1/2" x 7-1/2" center (2) 2" X 7-1/2" first border sides (2) 2" X 5-1/2” first top and bottom (2) 1-1/2" X 10-1/2" second border sides (2) 1-1/2" X 7-1/2" second top and bottom Block 14: (1) 1-1/2" x 6-1/2" center (2) 2” X 6-1/2" border top and bottom (2) 2" X 4-1/2" border sides Block 15: (1) 2-1/2" x 7-1/2" center (2) 2" X 2-1/2" border sides (2) 2" X 10-1/2" border top and bottom Block 16: (1) 2-1/2" x 9-1/2" center (2) 2-1/2" X 2-1/2" first border sides (2) 2-1/2" X 13-1/2" first top and bottom (2) 1-1/2" X 6-1/2" second border sides (2) 1-1/2" X 15-1/2" second top/bottom Block 17: (1) 4-1/2" X 4-1/2" center (2) 1-1/2" X 4-1/2" first border sides (2) 1-1/2" X 6-1/2" first top and bottom (2) 2-1/2" X 6-1/2" second border sides (2) 2-1/2" X 10-1/2" second top/bottom

BORDERS Note: If the border strip measurement is wider than the fabric, cut two strips, piece them togeth­ er and cut to the length indicated. Inside Border cut: (2) 1-1/2" x 44-1/2" border sides (2) 1-1/2" X 34-1/2" top and bottom


Outside border cut: (2) 3-1/2” x 46-1/2" sides (2) 3-1/2" X 40-1/2" top and bottom

block unit to the right side of the block #9/13 unit as shown in figure 4. This will be unit D.

For binding cut: 2" bias strips from outside border fabric to measure 190"

Sew block #12 to the top of block #15, and block #17 to the bottom o f block #15 as shown in figure 5. This will be unit E.

Quilt Blocks y

Sew unit A to the top of unit B. Sew unit C to the right side of unit A/B.

Sew each block's borders to each center block follow­ ing the cutting instructions. I sew the side borders on first, with the exception o f block #14, Press each seam toward the borders. Complete all 17 blocks. Follow the general instructions for fusible applique and fuse the name onto block #7. If the name is so long that it has to overlap some onto other blocks, wait until you sew the block units together to applique the name. You can also overlap the letters if you need to on a long name as shown below.

Sew unit D to the left side of unit E.

Em broidery V Finish the embroideiy detail using three strands of floss and a backstitch.

Fitiishitig V Sew the A/B/C quilt units to the top of the D/E quUt units. Sew the inside border strips to each side of the quilt, and the Inside border strips to the top and bottom.

Hand or machine finish the edges of the applique with a blanket stitch. Follow the general Instructions for transferring the embroidery lines and transfer the words to the center of blocks #4, #5, #6, #13, #15 and #16. I like to use an embroideiy hoop when I do my embroidery, so I wait until I have sewn together some of the block units to make the hooping easier. I will indicate when to embroider the words.

Sew the outside border strips to each side of the quUt, and the outside border strips to the top and bottom. This is the finished quilt top as shown in figure 6. Place backing right side down. Place batting down next and center the quilt top down last, right side up. Pin together and quilt as desired. Trim batting and backing to the same size as the quilt top. Bind the quilt in your favorite method.

Quilt Top V Press each seam as you sew. The blocks will be sewn into 5 units, as illustrated, and then the units will be sewn together. Sew block # 1 to the left side of block #2. Sew block #3 to the top of block #4. Sew these to block units together as shown in figure 1. This will be unit A.

u Sew block #6 to the left side of block #7 as shown in figure 2. This wHl be unit B. Sew block #5 to the top of block #8 as shown in fig­ ure 3. This will be unit C. Sew block #9 to the top of block #13. Sew block #10 to the top of block #14. Sew block #11 to the right side of the block #10/14 unit. Sew block number 16 to the bottom of the block #10/14/11 unit. Sew this

figure 1

unit A


Name Garland Approxim ate size p er block: 4-1/2" x 6-1/2" Materials Needed v 促1/4 yard or fat quarters for each background block fabric V 1/4 yard or fat quarter for letter appliques V lightweight batting or fleece V fusible web V 3 yards 7/8" ribbon

figure 3 unit C

Cutting V Cut (2) background blocks 5" x 7" for each letter in the name Cut (1) piece batting 5" x 7" for each letter in the name

G arland Construction V Follow the general instructions for fusible applique and fuse a letter onto one o f each o f the background block fabrics. figure 5 u n itE

Place a batting piece behind each letter block and machine or hand finish the edges o f the applique with a blanket stitch. Pin the block front to the back piece with right sides together. Sew all of the way around, leaving an open足 ing to turn. Clip comers, turn and press. Edge stitch a scant 1/4" away firom the block edge all the way around the edge. This will close the opening. QuUt around the letters.

Finishing V Tie a loop knot in the end o f the ribbon with the loop approximately 3" long and a 5" tail. Tie the next knot about 6" from the loop knot. ^ Pin the ribbon to the back o f the first letter 1/8" from the top edge and next to the knot. Tie the next knot on the other side of the block and pin the ribbon to the back of the next let足 ter. There should be approximately 1-1/4" between the blocks. Continue tying knots and pinning the let足 ter blocks in place untH all o f the letters are pinned to the ribbon. Tie a knot after the last block and then a loop knot 6" away. Trim excess ribbon.

figure 6

Stitch the ribbon to each block at the side edges along the edge stitch Une.


Diaper Bag Approxim ate size: 17" x 13" x 6" These fun and easy bags are fully lined with three bottle pockets, a cell phone pocket and a pen pocket.

Materials Needed V »1 / 4 yard bag top and tab closure fabric ¥ 1/2 yard bag trim stripe and tab closure bias binding fabric ¥ 2/3 yard for bag bottom and handles ¥ 5/8 yeird for bag lining ¥ 1 yard heavy weight non-woven interfacing ¥ 3/8 yard inside pocket fabric ¥2-1/4" of 1-1/2" wide velcro tape

Place the bag pocket pieces right sides together. Pin. Sew together and leave an opening for turning. Clip corners, turn and press. Edge stitch 1/8" away from the pocket edge all the way around the sides. This will close the opening and add stability to the pocket edges. Center the bag interfacing piece on the wrong side of the bag lining piece and pin. Turn the lining piece over so the lining front is facing up. Place the pocket piece centered on top of the lining piece right side as shown in flgiire 8. Pin. bag lining

3-1/2"

6-1/4"

Cutting V Cut (2) bag top pieces 18-1/2" x 5-1/2" Cut (1) one bag bottom piece 18-1/2" x 20-1/2" Cut (2) bag trim stripe pieces 18-1/2" x 1-1/2" Cut (2) bag closure tab pieces 3-1/2" x 7-1/2" Cut (1) lining piece 18-1/2" x 32-1/2" Cut (2) bag handle pieces 27" x 4” Cut (2) pocket pieces 12” x 20-1/2" Cut (1) bag interfacing piece 18-1/4" x 32-1/4" Cut (2) handle interfacing pieces 27" x 1" Cut (1) bag closure tab Interfacing piece 3-1/2" x 7-1/2" Cut (1) bias binding strip 1-3/4" x 17" for tab closure

figure 8 With a fine pencil or marking pen, mark the pocket stitching lines as shown in figure 9.

D iaper B ag Construction V Sew a bag trim stripe piece to one side o f a bag top piece. Sew the bag bottom piece to the other side of the trim stripe. Sew the second trim stripe piece to the other end of the bag bottom piece. Sew the second bag top piece to the other side of the second trim stripe. Se,e figure 7.

figure 7

figure 9 Stitch the pocket lines in figure 10 as indicated, sewing the pocket to the lining and interfacing. Do not sew the two center lines or in between them at this point, they will be sewn down later.

figure 10


Follow the genera] Instructions for making a template and make the tab closure template on page 25. Trace the template to the tab fabric pieces and the interfac­ ing. Cut out the tab pieces.

Position the bag Hning/pocket right sides together over the bag front. Pin. Sew together leaving an opening for turning along the long side. Clip comers and turn right side out. Press well.

Pin one fabric tab piece to the interfacing, wrong sides together. Pin the loop piece of the velcro to the tab, centered 1/2" from the curved end with the short side of the velcro at the curved end. Zig zag the vel­ cro to the tab back and Interfacing. Layer the two tab closure fabric pieces with right sides out. Pin.

With thread that matches the bag bottom, sew the two marked center lines on the pocket. This will secure the lining and pocket to the bag.

Fold the bias binding piece in half, wrong sides together and press. Pin the binding to the edges of the closure tab, raw edges together, easing around the curves. Sew the binding to the tab, trim excess binding. See figure 11. Fold the binding to the back and hand or machine stitch.

Pin the hook pifece of the velcro on the bag front. Center it on the bag end opposite the closure tab and 1-1/2" from the top. The velcro should be positioned in the opposite direction from the tab velcro, with the long end of the velcro parallel to the top, because it makes it easier to catch the velcro pieces when clos­ ing the bag. Zig zag the velcro to the bag front.

Finishing V Fold the bag in half with the outside together, match­ ing the seam lines on the bag front to the bag back, along the line shown in figure 12. Sew down each side of the bag.

figure 11 To make the handles, with the wrong side inside, fold the handle strips in half lengthwise and press. Open the strips and fold each edge to the center fold line and press. Tuck the handle interfacing strip next to the center fold and under the outside fold. Fold the handle in half again along the first fold line and press. (The interfacing is now encased inside of the handle fabric.) Sew along each edge of the handle through all layers to secure. Pin the handles to the bag front 4-1/2” in from each side and extending beyond the top o f the bag 1". Pin the tab, velcro side up, centered along one edge o f the bag top extending beyond the top of the bag 1". (This helps to strengthen the top edge o f the bag so it stands up nicely.) See figure 12.

To form the bottom comers of the bag, pull the fabric so the side seam and the bot­ tom fold line match, and the corners form a point. Measure In 3" from the point and stitch across the point. Make sure that''you don't catch the pocket edges in the seam. Repeat for the other comer. See figure 13. Press the side seams open. Turn the bag right side out. Tuck the corner points under the pocket flap on each side to hold them flat to the bottom o f the bag. Edge stitch around the top edge of the bag to reinforce the han­ dles and the tab closure.

Changing: Pad Approxim ate size: 14" x 23" This changing pad is stylish, soft and wateiprooi

Materials Needed ¥ '*\ I1 yard fabric for changing pad V 1/2 yard fabric backed vinyl (I found it being sold as “mattress protector”


V lightweight batting or fleece V 1/2 yard for bias binding and closure tab ¥ 1" of 5/8" velcro tape

Cutting V Cut Cut Cut Cut Cut

(1) changing pad fabric piece 14" x 23" (1) fabric backed vinyl piece 14" x 23" 2" bias binding strips to measure 75" (2) closure tabs 4" x 5" (1) batting piece l4 " x 23" and (1) 2" x 5"

Changing Pad Construction ¥ Follow the general instructions for making a template and make the com er template on page 25. Trace the template to each corner of the changing pad. Pin together the changing pad fabric and vinyl, right sides out, with the batting in the middle and cut out the rounded corners. Fold the bias binding piece in half, wrong sides together and press. Starting along a straight side, pin the binding to the edge o f the'changing pad, raw edges even, easing in the fullness around the curves. Stitch around binding until you are within 5" of where you started. Trim the binding 1" longer than the starting point. Turn under the end of the binding and fìnger press. Overlap your starting point -with the folded end of the binding. Turn the binding to the back o f the changing pad, press and hand or machine stitch. Fold the closure tab in half, right sides together along the 4" side. Pin the batting strip to the back. Stitch the edge opposite the fold and across one end. Clip comers, turn and press. Edge stitch around the tab's three edges. Center the loop side of the velcro tape 1/4" from the end o f the closure tab, -with the short side of the velcro at the end. Sew around the velcro tape to secure to the tab.

Binky Bag /^proxim ate size: 3" x 2-3/4" This cute binky bag buttons onto your diaper bag, stroller or belt loop! It holds three pacifiers.

Materials Needed V V 1/8 yard or a fat quarter for bag front and handle »1 / 8 yard or fat quarter for bag lining V 1/8 yard or scraps heavy weight non-woven interfacing y 1/8 yard or scraps of fabrics for the applique design pieces V fusible web V 1" o f 5/8" velcro tape ¥ one 3/4" sage green button for handle** V one 7/8" petal pink button for pos}^* (**See buying “Details” for kits on page 13 )

Cutting V Cut (1) handle piece 3-1/2" x 9"

B ag Construction V Follow the general instructions for making a template and make the binky bag templates on page 26. Cut a bag front from fabric, lining and batting. Cut two bag side pieces from fabric, lining and Interfacing. Follow the general instmctions for fusible applique and fuse the posy or dragonfly to the curved end of the bag flap. Pin the bag fabric to the batting and fin­ ish the edges o f the applique with a hand or machine blanket stitch.

Fold the changing pad in half along the length 'mith the vinyl side in. Fold the changing pad again in thirds. Center the closure tab 'with the raw edge 11/2" from the bound ends of the folded pad. (See pho­ tos.) Malce sure the tab is velcro side up. Pin. Unfold the pad and stitch across the open edge of the tab through all layers. (Don't stitch off the tab.) Flip the tab over to conceal the raw edge, press, and topstitch across the flap to secure.

Baste the bag side to the side mterfaclng piece. Pin the bag front to the bag side with right sides togeth­ er, matching the side top ■with the large dot on the bag template. You -will have to clip the straight sides of the bag front and batting to ease around the side curves. Stitch. Trim seams and clip corners and curves. Repeat for the other side.

Re-fold the changing pad and mark where the velcro tape needs to be placed on the back side o f the chang­ ing pad to hold it closed. Pin the hook side of the vel­ cro tape to the changing pad. Unfold the changing pad and zig zag around the edges of the velcro tape to secure.

To make the handle, fold under 1/2" on one end and press. With the wrong side inside, fold the handle strip In half lengthwise and press. Open the strip and fold each long edge to the center fold line and press. Fold the handle in half again along the first fold line and press. Edge stitch across the end and down one side to secvire the folds. Sew a button hole for a 3/4" button in the finished end of the handle, 5/8" from

8


the end. Fold the hemdle in half lengthwise again and pin. Edge stitch from the raw end to 1-3/4" from the buttonhole end and stop. See figure 14.

¥one 1/2" and one 7/16" dark pine button for frog** ¥ 1-1/4" of 5/8" velcro tape (**See buying “Details” for kits on page 13 )

1- 3 / 4 " 5 / 8'

Cutting V figure 14

Cut (1) grab handle 3" x 7"

Pin the loop piece o f the velcro to the right side of the bag lining, positioned 5/8" from the curved end. Zig zag around the velcro tape to secure to the lining.

Follow the general instructions for making a template and make the quick tote front and back templates. Cut one each from front fabric, lining and batting.

Sew the bag Lining sides to the bag lining, repeating the same steps as the bag front (without batting or interfacing). Turn right side out.

Tote Construction ¥

Pin the handle right sides together to the top edge of the side of the bag, raw edges even. (Tuck the rest of the handle down inside of the bag.)

Follow the general instructions for fusible applique and fuse the applique designs to the tote front and the back flap. Place the batting pieces on the back of those pieces and finish the edges of the applique designs with a hand or machine blanket stitch.

Position the bag and lining right sides together. Sew the bag to the lining all the way around the top edges catching the handle in the seam and leaving an open­ ing to turn along the straight side of the flap. Clip cor­ ners and curves. (The more you clip, the smoother the curve.) Turn to the right side through the opening. Press. Stitch the opening closed. On the flap, quilt around the appUque pieces through all layers. Sew the button to the side of the bag, cen­ tered 1/4" from the top edge. Sew the button on the posy. Sew the hook piece o f the velcro to the front of the bag, centered and 3/4" from the front top edge.

Diaper & Wipes Quick Tote Approxim ate size: 7" x 10" Organize diapers & wipes in your diaper bag, or grab the tote for a qiiick trip when you don't need the whole diaper bag! The bag holds wipes & two diapers.

Materials Needed v Y 1/4 yard or fat quarter for bag outside fabric & grab handle y 1/4 yard or fat quarter for Uning Vlightweight batting or fleece ¥ 1/8 yard or scraps for the applique designs (1/4 yard for frog's body) ¥ one 1/2" and one 7/16" sage green button for p o ^ *

Hand or machine quilt around the frog and the posy stem and leaves. (Don't quilt around the dragonfly or posy flower at this point.) Sew the buttons to the frog and posy. Sew the tote front, right sides together, to the tote back around the side seam. Clip curves. (The more you clip, the smoother the curve.) Sew the loop piece o f the velcro to the right side of the lining flap, centered and 3/4" from the flap curve. Sew the Uning front to "the lining back, right sides together around the side seam, leaving a 2" opening for turning on one straight side. Clip curves. Turn right side out. Position the tote and lining with right sides together. Sew the tote to the Uning all the way around the top edge and flap. Clip com ers and curves. Turn right side out through the lining. Stitch up the opening. Press. Hand or machine quilt aroimd the dragonfly and posy through all layers. Sew the hook piece of the velcro tape centered and 1-7/8" down from the front edge. To m^ake the grab handle, press under 1/2" on each end of the handle strip. With the wrong side inside, fold the handle strip in half lengthwise and press. Open the strips and fold each edge to the center fold line and press. Fold the handle in half again along the first fold Hne and press. Sew along each edge of the handle through all layers to secure. Pin the handle to the back o f the tote, centered and even with the front edge. Stitch a small square at each end of the handle to secure to the tote.


Dribble Bibs Approxim ate siate: 8" x 12" These bibs are fun, quick to sew and waterproof!

Materials Needed p e r b ib V »1 / 4 yard for bib frortt and back V 1/4 yard fabric backed vinyl (I found it being sold as “mattress protector” V 1/8 yard or scraps of several fabrics for the applique design pieces y fusible web ¥ 1" o f 5/8" velcro tape ¥ for “don't bug me” DMC floss in #936 (green), #3830 (coral) and one small side view lady bug but­ ton* ¥ for “I've had it” DMC floss in #936 (green), #434 (brown), #310 (black) and #3768 (blue) ¥ for “spit happens” DMC floss in #936 (green) and two dark forest "teeny weeny" buttons** (* **See buying “Details” for kits on page 13 )

For spit happens: backstitch the words with #936. Trace the stitching line template to the back of the bib backing piece. Lay the vinyl bib piece down first witli the vinyl side up. Next, place the bib front with right side up and then the bib back with right side down. Pin. Stitch around the stitching line leaving an opening to turn on the straighter side. Clip curves, (the more you clip, the smoother the curves when you turn the bib) and turn right side out. Press. Edge stitch around the bib edge, closing the opening. With a small zig zag stitch, sew the loop piece o f the velcro to the end of the neck piece of the bib, and the hook piece to the top right front o f the bib. Securely sew the eye buttons on the “spit happens” bib, and the ladybug button on the “don't bug me” bib.

Baby Aimoiiiicement Quilts Approxim ate size: 12" x 17"

Cutting V Follow the general instructions for making a template and msLke two bib templates, one for the cutting line, and one for the stitching line. Cut out a front and back bib from the bib fabric and one from the vinyl. Note: The stitching line goes inside the neck hole, not the cutting line.

Bib Construction V Follow the general instructions for fusible applique and fuse the applique designs to the bib front. Finish the edges of the applique designs with a hand or machine blanket stitch. Follow the general instructions for transferring embroidery lines, and transfer the words and embroi­ dery lines to the bib. Use three strands o f floss unless noted. For don't bug me: backstitch the words with #936. Backstitch the antermae with #3830. Use one strand o f #936 and a running stitch for the dragonfly line. For I've had it!: backstitch the words with two strands and #936. Backstitch the baby's curl and the buggy wheels with #434. Backstitch the buggy's han­ dle, the legs and wheel spokes with #3768. French knot the eyes with #310.

Materials Needed V ¥ 1/4 yard or fat quarter for block background fabric ¥ 1/2 yard for the inside and outside borders, back­ ing and hang tabs ¥1/4 yard for the middle border ¥ 1/8 yard or scraps of assorted fabrics for the applique designs ¥ fusible web ¥ 13" X 18" piece lightweight batting ¥two 7/8" buttons for hang tabs, night flower for the girl quilt and storm blue for the boy quilt** ¥ four 5/8" sage green buttons for the girl quilt ¥DMC floss in #936 (green) for both and #730 (green) for the gfrl quilt ¥one 15" 3-heart holder w/dowel*** (** *** See buying “Details” for kits on page 13)

Cutting V Cut backgrovmd block 11" x 6" Cut (2) inside border strips 3/4" x 6" Cut (2) inside border strips 3/4" x 11-1/2" Cut (2) middle border strips 2-1/2" x 6-1/2" Cut (2) middle border strips 2-1/2" x 15-1/2" Cut (2) outside border strips 1-1/2" x 10-1/2" Cut (2) outside border strips 1-1/2" x 17-1/2"


Cut (1) backing piece 12-1/2" x 17-1/2" Cut (2) hang tabs 3" x 4"

Soft Blocks Approxim ate size: 6" x 6" x 6"

Quilt Top V Sew a 3/4” x 6" border to each side o f the background block. Press. Sew a 3/4" x 11-1/2" border to the top and bottom. Press. Sew a 2-1/2" x 6-1/2” border to each side of the background block. Press. Sew a 2-1/2" x 15-1/2" border to the top and bottom. Press. Sew a 1-1/2" x 10-1/2" border to each side o f the background block. Press. Sew a 1-1/2" x 17-1/2” border to the top and bottom. Press. Follow the general instructions for fusible applique. Cut the center of the fusible out of the name and date block, leaving about 1/4" around the edges, before you fuse it to the block fabric. This makes it easier to embroider on and less stiff. Follow the general Instructions for transferring embroidery lines, and transfer the name, date, and weight and length information to the name and date block before you fuse it to the quilt. Arrange and fuse the applique design pieces to the quilt top.

Materials Needed Per BlockV ¥ 1/4 yard or fat eighths for each o f the six block sides V 1/3 yard heavy weight non-woven interfacing »stu ffing y 1/8 yard or scraps of several fabrics for applique designs (1/4 yard for dinosaur and frog) ¥ fusible web ¥ Embroideiy floss in DMC #310 (black) for bumble bee, #936 (green) for butterfly ¥ two dark forest “teeny weeny” buttons for elephant** ¥ two dark forest “teeny v/eeny" buttons for biamble bee** ¥ two dark forest “itsy bitsy” buttons for dinosaur**

Note:

I also used the bird applique from the “Baby Announcement Quilts", the posy, dragonfly and frog applique from the “Diaper & Wipes Quick Totes”. The materials for those applique designs are listed under their projects.

(** See “Details” on page 13 )

CutdmgV Follow the general instructions for transferring embroideiy lines, and transfer the embroidei^'^ lines to the quilt top. Machine or hand finish the edges of the applique pieces with a blanket stitch. Pin the quilt top to the batting. (This gives you some bulk to embroider through.) Complete the embroidery using two strands of floss. Backstitch and french knot the words with #936. Backstitch the bird's heart ribbons with #730 on the girl's qu ilt

Fin is h in g V Fold the hang tabs in half, right sides together, along the 4" side. Stitch the edge opposite the fold and across one end. Clip corners and turn right side out. Pin each tab 2-1 /4” in from the top comers, top raw edges even. Trim the batting even with the quHt top. Position the quilt top and backing fabric right sides together. Pin. Sew together and leave an opening for turning. Clip comers, turn, press and stitch up the opening. Hand or machine quilt around the borders and the applique pieces as desired. Sew on the buttons. Secure the hang tabs by sewing the buttons on thjrou^ all layers.

Cut (6) assorted blocks 6-1/2" x 6-1/2" Cut (6) interfacing blocks 6-1/4” x 6-1/4" FoUow the general instructions for making a template and make the templates for the bumble bee's wing, the butterfly's wings, the elephant's ear and the dinosaur's teeth. Cut two pieces o f fabric that are big enough for each template with at least 1/4" allowance around the edges.

Block Construction V Trace the template shape to the wrong side of one of the fabric pieces. Pin the fabric pieces with right sides together and sew on the traced line. Trim the seam to a generous 1/8" and cHp curves. (The more you clip, the smoother the curve.) The bee's wing, ele­ phant's ear and the dinosaur's teeth will be turned through the open side. For the but­ terfly wings, cut a small slit through only one layer o f fabric. See fig­ ure 15. Turn the wings through the sUt. Press. Follow the general instmctions for transfi>rrificr thf»

p m h ro id p rv

figure 15


lines and transfer the lines and sewing markings. Sew the wing lines on Uie wings. Follow the general instructions for fusible applique and fuse the applique designs to the block back­ grounds. Importeint: Place the wings, ears and teeth under the applique pieces before you fuse the design to the block background. (Refer to the photos.) Center each block over a block o f interfacing and pin. (The Interfacing Is 1/4" smaller so that it doesn't have to be trimmed after sewing.) Finish the edges of the applique by hand or machine with a blanket stitch. Embroider the bee's flight line with a running stitch and 3 strands of #310. Backstitch the butterfly antennae with #936. Sew on the eye buttons.

Finishing V Always start the seam 1/4" from the edge and end the seam 1/4" from the other edge.

y 1/3 yard or fat quarter each for two sides ¥ 7/8 yard heavy weight non-woven interfacing ¥1/8 yard or fat eighth for handles ¥ 1/S yard or scraps o f several fabrics for applique designs ¥ fusible web ¥ one baby bottle and one baby rattle button* ¥ Embroidery floss in DMC #310 (black), #936 (green) for girl, #3768 (blue) for boy (** See “Details” on page 13 )

Cutting V Cut (1) center block 7-1/2" x 7-1/2" Cut (2) strips 1-3/4" X 7-1/2" for side borders Cut (1) strip 1-1/2" X 10" for top border Cut (1) block 10" X 19-1/2" for bottom and back Cut (2) side blocks 10" x 9-3/4" Cut (1) lining piece 10" x 27-1/2" Cut (2) lining pieces 10" x 9-3/4" Cut (1) interfacing piece 9-3/4" x 27-1/4" Cut (2) Interfacing pieces 9-3/4" x 9-1/2" Cut (2) handle pieces 4" x 8" Cut (2) handle interfacing pieces 1” x 7"

Tote Construction V Sew the side border strips to the center block. Sew the top border strip and the bottom block to the cen­ ter block. Follow the general instructions for fusible applique and fuse on the applique design. Finish the edges of the applique design with a hand or machine blanket stitch.

With the right sides together, sew four blocks together as shown in figure 16. Add two more blocks to the sides of one of the center blocks as shown in figure 17. figure 17

Sew the side seams together, making sure to start and stop the seam 1/4" from the edge. Keep the seam allowances from other seams out of the seam. Continue sewing until the last side, leaving a 3" opening to turn. Trim the interfac­ ing, along the opening, to the seam line. Turn the block and stuff lightly. (If you stuff it too Srmly, It becomes a ball instead of a cube!) Stitch up the opening.

Sweet Baby Organizer Gift Totes Approxim ate size: 9" x 9" x 9" Materials Needed V V I /4 yard or fat eighth for the center block ¥ 1./3 yard for borders, bottom and back

Follow the general instructions for transferring embroideiy hnes and transfer the Unes. Backstitch the word “sweet” with three strands of #936 for the girl, or #3768 for the boy. French knot the eyes with #310. Place the tote front and lining right sides together, with the Interfacing centered on the back. (The inter­ facing is cut 1/4" smaller so that it doesn't have to be trimmed.) Sew around the edges leaving an opening to turn. Clip comers, turn, press and stitch up the open­ ing. Quilt through all layers aroimd the center block and the applique pieces. Sew on the buttons. Place the tote side blocks and lining right sides together with the interfacing centered on the back. Sew around the edges leaving an opening to turn. Clip comers, turn, press and stitch up the opening. To make the handles, press under 1/2" on each end of the handle strip. With the wrong side inside, fold the handle strip in half lengthwise and press. Open the strips and fold each edge to the center fold line and press. Tuck the handle interfacing strip next to the center fold and under the outside fold. Fold the


handle in half again along the first fold line and press. Sew along each edge o f the handle through all layers to secure. Sew the handles 1-1/2" down 6*0111 the top edge of the tote side, and 1-1/2" in from each side. {The long side of the side block is the top edge.) On the tote front, measure in 9" from each end and

sew across the tote through all layers. See figure 18. Thiese lines will be where the tote front bends. Pin the front to a side block along the shorter side of the block, with the top edges even and the seam to the outside. {See photos.) Stitch to 1/4” from the bottom edge. Pin the other side of the side block to the back of the tote, top edges even, and stitch to 1/4" from the bottom edge. Stitch across the bottom edge of the tote side. Repeat for the other side.

Sweet Baby Stitclieries

Quilt Top V Sew a 5-1/2" border strip to each side of the quilt block. Press. Sew a 7-1/2" border strip to the top and bottom of the quilt. Press. Follow the general instructions for transferring embroidery Lines, and transfer all of the words and embroidery Unes^^to the quilt top. Pin the quilt top to the batting. (This gives you some bulk to embroider through.) Complete the embroidery using three strands of floss unless noted. For girl quilt: Backstitch “baby” letters in #730. Backstitch the face and hand with #3778. French knot the eyes with #310. Backstitch the hafr with #434. Backstitch the sleeper with #3328. Backstitch the cheeks with one strand of #223. Backstitch “sweet” with #3830. For boy quilt: Backstitch “baby” letters in #3768. Backstitch the face and haind with #3778. French knot the eyes with #310. Backstitch the hair with #434. Backstitch the sleeper with #932. Backstitch the cheeks with one strand of #223. Backstitch “sweet” with #730.

Finishing V

Materials Needed V

Fold the hang tabs in half, right sides together along the 3" side. Stitch the edge opposite the fold and across one end. Clip com ers and turn. Pin each tab 1-1/4” in from the top edge, raw edges even.

V 1/4 yard for background block V 1/4 yard for border and backing ¥ 1/8 yard or scraps for hang tabs ¥ lightweight batting or fleece ¥ one baby bottle and one baby rattle button* ¥ 6 " heart holder w/dowel hanger***

Position the quilt top and backing fabric right sides together. Pin. Sew together and leave an opening for turning. Clip comers, turn and press. Stitch up the opening. Quilt around the border if desfred. Sew on the buttons. Secure the hang tabs by sewing the but­ tons on through all layers.

Approxim ate size: 7" x 7"

For girl quilt: ¥DMC embroidery floss #730 {green), #3778 {flesh), #310 {black), #434 {brown), #3328 {pink), #223 (mauve), #3830 (pink) ¥two petal pink 5/8" buttons** For boy quilt: ¥DMC embroidery floss #3768 (blue), .#3778 (flesh), #310 (black), #434 (brown), #932 (blue), #223 (pink), #730 (green) ¥ two storm blue 5/8" buttons**

Cutdng V Cut Cut Cut Cut Cut

the background block 5-1/2" x 5-1/2" (2) borders 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" (2) borders 1-1/2" x 7-1/2" a backing and batting piece 7-1/2" x 7-1/2" two hang tabs 2" x 3"

Details V * The specialty buttons shown in the photographs-are made by “Just Another Button Company”. They can be purchased at your local quilt shop or from Art to Heart. Phone or fax “Just Another Button Company” at 618-667-8531 for a list of stores near you or phone Art to Heart, fax, write, or check our web page at www.arttoheart.com for current prices and ordering information. ** The hand dyed buttons are “Theresa's Hand Dyed Buttons from HiUcreek Designs”. Check your local quUt shop for the button Mts, or go to www.hlllcreekdesigns.com or call them at 619-562-5799, fax 619-562-2515 or write 10159 Buena Vista Ave., Santee, CA 92071. ***The stained dowel wire hangers are available from your local quilt shop or from Acfcfeld Manufacturing. Call or write P.O. Box 539, Reesdpring, MO 65737, phone 888-2723135 or 417-272-3135, fex 417-272-3160, or visit www.adkfddwire.com.


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26


Diaper Wipes Quick Totes


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Baby Announcement Quilts

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Winsome Baby  

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