floors of the lunchroom of yore are still intact, the dining room has been gussied up with a coat of shocking pink paint, and the walls and tabletops are decorated with images of notable women. Many are Marylanders like Gertrude Stein, Emily Post, and Billie Holiday. “Teachers, poets, writers, athletes, musicians all nourish us,” says Smith. And she nourishes us too, with her menu of comfort foods that include that famous tomato aspic and chicken salad, along with a few modern touches. Irene's soups are legendary, and in the summertime there's usually a version of gazpacho using whatever vegetables Irene has picked up from local farmers that week. “Farming, locally sourced foods, work, waitressing, cooking, history—they are all valuable. Our legacy can't be microwaved dinners.”
CHARLOTTE RUSSE (SERVES 8)
It is said that the French chef Antonin Carême made the first Charlotte Russe to honor both the daughter of a former employer (Princess Charlotte of Wales) and his current employer (Czar Alexander, a Russian). All we know is that it's a fairly classic icebox-type cake, with a filling of flavored whipped cream within a mold lined with ladyfingers and topped with fresh fruit—and delicious.
For the ladyfingers: ½ cup unsalted butter 1 cup white sugar ½ cup heavy whipping cream 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1¾ cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon baking powder
For the filling: ⅓cup unflavored gelatin powder ¼ cup milk, at room temperature 2½ cups heavy cream 1½ cups sugar 2 tablespoons vanilla extract 7 egg whites
For assembly: Fresh berries To make the ladyfingers: Cream the butter, sugar, cream, and vanilla until fluffy and light. Sift the flour and baking powder together. Add the flour mixture to the creamed butter with a spatula.