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Entry #1  Women’s  Wear  Daily  –  November  15,  2011     http://www.wwd.com/beauty-­‐industry-­‐news/color-­‐cosmetics/dolce-­‐gabbana-­‐ animal-­‐instincts-­‐3619772  

Dolce & Gabbana: Animal Instincts

May 20,  2011 By Kerry Olsen

  MILAN  —  Dolce & Gabbana is out to prove it’s no wild card in the color cosmetic sector as it launches a new trend-led makeup line called Animalier, fueling consumers’ appetites for runway-inspired makeup. Leveraging high-voltage leopard prints from its fashion line and channeling them into makeup, the designers are pushing a runway to makeup message synonymous with the label’s brand of glam chic. “Absolutely, it’s an accessible way for everyone to buy into a must-have new season collection and can also be a clever way to preview the new musthave color, creating a waiting list before it’s even available,” said Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director at Harrods when asked if integrating the runway into makeup


boosts sales. “The cosmetics market, especially brands that are derivatives of fashion labels, thrive on coherence.” “A successful interpretation of the runway collection is key…colors, images, quality and design must recall in the consumer’s mind the ready-to-wear collections,” said Simone De Stefanis, director of buying for La Rinascente beauty and cosmetics. Luigi Feola, vice president of Procter & Gamble Prestige, noted, “Our makeup key consumers are really interested in trend-led products that stand out in the marketplace, in a way that is exclusively Dolce & Gabbana.” In a telephone interview from his Milan office Wednesday, Stefano Gabbana said he saw no separation between makeup and the Dolce & Gabbana fashion line. “We always take inspiration from our fashion collection for the makeup; we’re pushing a lifestyle. The ideas are the same whether we’re working on makeup, a perfume, or a bag,” he said. The new line’s hero product, dubbed Animalier bronzer, takes its cues from the Italian house’s signature leopard prints that also feature on dresses, bags and a line of sunglasses. The limited edition gold metal compact will retail for $50 and contains a face powder embellished with a leopard print design alongside existing items from the Dolce & Gabbana makeup collection, including its Classic Cream lipstick in Ultra 190 ($30), Precision lip liner in Ultra 7 ($30), Smooth Eye Color Duo eye shadow in Stromboli ($36), Crayon Intense eyeliner in Stromboli ($29) and its Intense Nail Lacquer in Red ($20). The Animalier collection is rolling out now in the U.S, U.K, Italy, Russia, the Middle East and Greece. Feola underlined company plans to maintain a tight rein on the business, sticking to a selective distribution model. According to Gabbana, the bronzer took more than 18 months to formulate. He said that the designers were keen to invent something new. “After functionality, the visual aspect of a product is very important to us,” he explained. “We wanted to create an object that a woman would bring out of her handbag, and instantly someone compliments her on it and asks her where she got it from.” “Our consumer is buying into products that look as good in their handbag as the clothes that they wear,” said McKee from Harrods. La Rinascente’s De Stefanis added, “Expressing a fashion trend through a makeup palette or lipstick needs to be well interpreted and represented through its advertising campaign and merchandising elements in-store. If the consumer can feel the same emotion as they do from the runway though…the sale is guaranteed.” P&G Prestige’s Feola noted the company has reported strong interest from the consumer for limited edition and hero pieces, and believes these items can drive category growth. From January to June this year, Dolce & Gabbana’s color cosmetic business has grown threefold compared to the same period in 2009. Dolce & Gabbana makeup is carried in 49 doors globally, including Saks Fifth Avenue in the U.S., Harrods in the U.K. and La Rinascente in Italy, and is on track to hit 70 doors


by the end of June, according to Feola. Its stockkeeping units have strengthened from an initial 100 units to 213 sku’s since its debut. McKee credited growth to its must-have fashion items that capture the essence of the Dolce & Gabbana brand such as its new Animalier collection and last season’s Jewel Compact, a lipstick palette. Gabbana said he’s very focused on the makeup line’s development. “I visit stores, not only ours, but department stores too. I watch the behavior of women when selecting items, it’s something that really interests me.” He added that he also asks friends to test new products. As an avid user of Twitter, he said he also was surprised to see makeup news being tweeted so much. It’s a consideration not lost on the industry. Chanel has closely aligned its makeup with runway collections for some time, as has Dior. Burberry’s color line, launched last July, takes its overall inspiration from the trenchcoat. However, McKee pointed out translating the runway to cosmetics is not a magic bullet. “The biggest challenge is making them wearable. What looks eye-catching on the catwalk or a music video doesn’t necessarily look good in everyday life. The key element is to find an iconic product that suits all skin tones and skin types.”       This  article  from  Women’s  Wear  Daily  talks  about  how  Dolce  and  Gabbana   have  expanded  their  business  into  cosmetics.  The  article  tells  us  that  the  make-­‐up  is   based  on  the  exquisite  and  daring  make-­‐up  that  is  shown  on  today’s  runways.   According  to  interviews  the  make-­‐up,  clothes  and  accessories  that  Dolce  and   Gabbana  design  and  create,  for  consumers,  all  flow  together  like  once  piece.  Stating   that  this  way  everyone  can  have  the  musts  for  the  season  with  one  stop  saying  that   make-­‐up  brands  thrive  on  coherence.  Another  way  the  designers  are  looking  at  it  is   that  with  make-­‐up  they  can  set  color  trends  before  anyone  else  and  basically  create   a  waitlist  for  other  goods,  based  on  one  color  palate  from  their  make-­‐up.  But,  the   two  designers  plan  on  keeping  their  make-­‐up  almost  exactly  the  same  as  their   clothing,  so  consumers  know  what  and  who  it  is  with  a  glance.    The  line  is  only   available  in  49  stores  and  plans  to  have  70  stores  open  in  June.  But,  the  designers   have  said  that  the  biggest  challenge  is  making  sure  the  make-­‐up  looks  good   transferring  from  the  runway  into  real  life.       I  think  that  as  a  business  the  two  designers  are  making  a  smart  move.  Just   based  on  the  brand  name  the  make-­‐up  will  sell  it’s  self.  I  don’t  think  anyone  is   questioning  if  the  make-­‐up  will  be  good,  but  they  will  be  asking  where  they  can  get  it   and  which  outfit  of  Dolce  and  Gabbana’s  will  look  the  best  with  it.  Expanding  a   business  is  a  good  move  if  you  already  have  a  clientele  that  is  in  need  of  that   product.  Dolce  and  Gabbana’s  clients  are  women  who  wear  clothing    off  the  runway,   therefore  they  need  (or  at  least  think  they  need)  runway  make-­‐up  to  complete  the   look.    

Jounal #1  

Fashion Journal

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