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ISSUE NUMBER 21 • May 2013

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Not so fast food with Tommy and Nicky Pippa Mattei makes homemade tortellini Win a gourmet cooking course in Tuscany OVER

25ES

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RECIP INSIDE


La Barca offers a complete dining experience with the best mix of service, ambience and exquisite food. The restaurant boasts a wide range of fresh fish dishes, meat dishes, pasta and traditional Maltese Food from the Ă  la carte menu. Whatever the occasion. La Barca is the ideal place for that delightful meal while admiring the picturesque views of Mellieha Bay. La Barca is also the perfect venue for engagement parties and small scale weddings. Open Daily for Dinner & Sunday Lunch Bookings on 21521332 www.tunnynet.com Join us on Facebook


May 2013

gourmet today

3 Homecooks go Asian 11 Burger perfection with New York Best’s Tommy and Nicky Diacono 17 Pippa Mattei makes homemade tortellini 23 Make use of the last of the strawberries in strawberry shortcake 23 Win a table for two at P.Cutajar’s Wine and Dine event 24 Win a Gourmet Weekend cooking course in Tuscany 26 Beer is not just for drinking. Try some incredible Cisk recipes 28 Oatilicious recipes from Tom Devenish 33 Michael Diacono makes an easy meal to wow guests at home 39 Salvino’s – A new favourite in the heart of Valletta 42 Summer musthaves for your kitchen 46 Take a trip to Barbera to discover some underappreciated Italian wines

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Editor’s note

33

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24

Bon appétit!

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Vjal ir-Riħan, San Ġwann SGN 9016 Malta Tel: +356 2138 2741 Fax: +356 2138 1992 www.maltatoday.com.mt

Spring is in the air, chirping birds, longer daylight hours, warmer temperatures and of course a myriad of spring vegetables. Spring is one of my favourite months with regards to food. The bright colours of the fruit and vegetables now in season not only make your dishes taste great but look as beautiful as they taste with brightly coloured ingredients. And of course, spring marks the start of al fresco dining, barbeques and making use of outdoor spaces. Gaby Holland makes some Vietnam inspired fresh spring rolls, full of colourful peppers, spring onions, carrots, cucumber and prawns served with a delicious peanut and hoisin dressing. Janet Grech sticks to the Asian flavour as she adds a ginger glaze to her roasted pork belly and Sandra Dimech uses the last of the season’s strawberries to top a delicious and original brownie cheesecake. Pippa Mattei recently returned from Bologna, equipped with expertise and enthusiasm to make homemade tortellini. Though they are a lot a work, they are absolutely delicious, unlike any packeted ones you can get from the supermarket and well worth the effort. May is national burger month in the USA – any excuse for a burger. Tommy and Nicky Diacono strive for fast food perfection and put together the ultimate in fresh burgers with an array of condiments that make their dish truly local – fresh gbejniet, ful imgiddem and deep fried zucchini flowers. Every day should be a cheat day! This is also a great month to win great prizes. Win a Gourmet Weekend course in Tuscany with celebrity chef Paolo Teverini and a stay at the beautiful Villa Cassia (pg 24). Be in with the chance to win a five-course meal for two at P. Cutajar’s Wine and Dine event on 19 June at Pane e Olio (pg 23). We hope you enjoy this issue of Gourmet Today and look forward to receiving your comments and suggestions.

Managing Editor: Saviour Balzan Editor: Rachel Zammit Cutajar gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt

Design: Kevin Grech Photography: Ray Attard, Nicky Scicluna and Michael Calleja Head of sales: Adriana Farrugia Contact for advertising: Chris Sacco – 21382741 ext: 122

Cover: Tommy and Nicky Diacono Cover photo by Nicky Scicluna Printed at: Print It Printing Services


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HOME COOKS

Spring brings with it longer daylight hours, warmer temperatures and a vast array of colourful vegetables that make the kitchen a delightful place. Gaby Holland makes use of these fresh ingredients, together with just a few prawns to make some fresh Vietnamese spring rolls, which work just as well as a light meal as they do as a starter. For main course Janet Grech prepares a roasted pork belly with a ginger glaze and a sweet potato puree. And for dessert, chocolate brownies or cheesecake? Sandra Dimech combines the two in a delicious chocolate brownie based cheesecake topped with strawberries

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photography by Ray Attard

May 2013


May 2013

gourmet today

HOM

E CO 5 OKS

Fresh Vietnamese spring rolls Serves 8 (as a starter)

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • •

25g rice vermicelli noodles 8 x 22cm round rice papers (available in the Asian section of large supermarkets) 12 prawns About 25 fresh mint leaves Bunch of fresh coriander sprigs About 25 fresh basil leaves 50g unsalted roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped 1 medium carrot ¼ cucumber Few stalks chopped spring onions 1 little gem lettuce, leaves finely shredded 1 red bell pepper

For the dipping sauce • • •

• • • • • •

1 garlic clove, very finely chopped 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 red chili, deseeded and finely chopped 1 tbsp light soft brown sugar 2 tbsp Thai fish sauce 2 tbsp lime juice 3 tbsp crunchy peanut butter 1 tbsp hoisin sauce Some warm water to loosen the sauce

Method

1. Put the vermicelli noodles into a heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water and leave for 5 mins to soften. Drain and set aside. 2. Cook the prawns in boiling water for a few minutes until they change colour, being careful not to overcook them as they become rubbery.

3. Shell and devein the prawns reserving the heads and shells for a stock for later. Slice prawns in half. 4. Julienne the vegetables so that they are all the same size (the same length you want your spring roll to be). 5. Submerge a rice paper wrapper in a shallow bowl of warm water for around 5 seconds to soften. 6. Remove and lay on a clean tea towel. 7. Starting placing filling to one side of the wrapper. Alternate 3 halves of the prawns (cut side up) with mint and basil leaves. 8. Place some noodles over them followed by, peanuts, carrot, cucumber, peppers and spring onions and lastly but the chopped lettuce and coriander. Don’t put too much on, or it will be impossible to roll. 9. Start rolling the short end of the wrapper tucking and folding in the sides as you go along. Roll up tightly to make a neat parcel. (Same as you would to make a normal wrap). 10. Set aside on a serving plate and repeat with the remaining papers being careful not to let the ready spring rolls touch as they stick together. 11. Cover with a damp tea towel while you make the dipping sauce. If you are not

eating immediately, place in fridge for up to a couple of hours. 12. To make the dipping sauce, grind the garlic, chilli and sugar in a pestle and mortar to a coarse paste or chop finely. 13. Heat the sesame oil and fry the paste. 14. Stir in the rest of the ingredients and stir over a low heat until the sugar is dissolved. Loosen with some warm water if necessary. 15. Divide among individual dipping saucers. Uncover the rolls and serve with the sauce.

Suggested wine: Peter Lehmann Reisling Delicate green, gold in colour with vibrant, fresh floral notes and a hint of citrus. The palate shows great purity of fruit with a soft, moderately dry finish. This wine is made in a refreshing style that bursts into the mouth with a gentle touch of sweetness lending it to countless occasions.

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Malta - Attard & Co. Foodstuffs Ltd. Tel: 21 237555 Gozo - Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd. Tel: 21 563231


May 2013

gourmet today

Roasted pork belly with a ginger glaze

HOM

7

E CO

OKS

Ingredients • • • •

1.5kg whole piece of pork belly, boneless 2 large onions or 6 shallots, minced 4 sage leaves, minced Coarse salt

Ginger glaze • • •

2 tbsp ginger, minced 1 tbsp honey Water

Method

1. Make sure the butcher leaves the pork belly whole and ask him to score the skin. 2. Cover the skin with coarse sea or rock salt. 3. Mince the onions, sage leaves and pour mixture into the base of an oven proof dish. 4. Heat the oven to full and when very hot place the pork, fat up, into the oven and roast for 20 mins on the bottom shelf. 5. When the fat is crisp lower the temperature to 100 – 1500C and cook slowly until the meat is soft and cooked through – approx 1½ hours to 2 hours. 6. For the ginger glaze simply mince the ginger and add the honey adding some hot water to obtain a loose consistency and glaze pork before serving.

Sweet potato puree Ingredients • • • •

2 large sweet potatoes 2 large carrots 2 tbsp cider vinegar (to taste) Salt and pepper

Method

1. Boil the sweet potatoes and carrots together until softened. 2. Strain and add the cider vinegar. 3. Season and mash to form a puree.

Wilted Swiss chard Ingredients • • •

Large handful Swiss chard 1 clove garlic Olive oil

Method

1. Wash the chard leaves and remove any of the tough parts of the stalks. 2. Fry the garlic in olive oil until softened. 3. Add the chard a little a time and stir until just wilted. 4. Serve immediately.

Suggested wine: Peter lehmann clancy Crimson brick red in colour with a bouquet of ripe plums, some blackcurrant and violets with just a hint of dusted chocolate. A softly textured, smooth and approachable wine, filled with ripe plum, mulberry and full berry flavours, overlayed by smooth velvety tannins, with hints of black pepper on the back palate.

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May 2013

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Brownie based cheesecake Ingredients Brownie Base • • • • • •

100g butter, chopped 150g dark chocolate, chopped 1 egg 150g caster sugar 110g plain flour 35g self-raising flour

Cheesecake topping • • • • • • •

400g cream cheese, softened, chopped (at room temperature) 1½ tsp vanilla extract 120g caster sugar 200ml fresh cream 2 tbsp lemon juice 1 egg plus 1 egg yolk Fresh strawberries or grated chocolate to garnish

Method

1. Preheat oven to 180°C, 160°C fan oven . 2. Grease a 23cm springform tin and line the base with baking paper. 3. Place the butter and chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water; stir until melted. 4. Beat the egg and sugar in a small bowl with an electric mixer, until thick and creamy. 5. Gradually stir in the chocolate mixture and sifted flours.

6. Spread mixture into prepared tin and bake for about 10 mins or until just firm to touch. 7. To make the cheesecake topping, add the lemon juice to the fresh cream and put aside. 8. In a bowl beat the cream cheese, vanilla extract and sugar with an electric mixer until smooth, add the fresh cream and lemon mixture and beat until thick. 9. Add the egg and egg yolk and beat until just combined. (Do not overbeat) 10. Pour the cheesecake topping over the brownie base and bake for a further 40 mins or until set being careful not to overcook as it continues to firm up in the fridge. 11. Allow to cool in the tin. When cool carefully remove from tin, place on serving plate and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Decorate with strawberries or with grated chocolate.

HOM

E CO 9 OKS


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A love of food runs through the veins of the Diacono family. For Tommy and Nicky Diacono fast food doesn’t have to be unhealthy, artery-clogging fare. Owners of New York Best, the brothers spend their day making simple burgers, hotdogs and pizzas using the best local ingredients to provide a fast food option that is genuine and above all tasty. In their free time they love experimenting in the kitchen, trying to out-do each other with even better burgers. This is by no means fast food. They mince their own beef, par-boil and twice fry their chips and marinate their buffalo wings in beer and spices. Surprise your guests with their recipes for not-so-fast food.

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photography by Nicky scicluna

Not so fast food


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Gourmet burger with perfect fries

Food is always better when it is local and in season. Just because we’re making burgers doesn’t mean you should ever break this rule. Use fresh beef for the patty and use fresh local ingredients for condiments. Fresh gbejna, fried local zucchini flowers, broad beans and local tomatoes on a crispy fresh ciabatta give your burgers a local touch.

The burger Ingredients

(per burger) • 1 ciabatta • 1 beef burger patty • 2 thick slices tomato • A few thin slices onion • 1 tbsp ful imgiddem • ½ fresh gbejna, sliced horizontally • 1 large fried zucchini flower • 2 tbsp marjoram mayo

Method

1. Once the preparation is complete its time for assembly. 2. Cook the beef patty on a hot grill pan for a few minutes on each side until medium. The perfect burger should have a pink centre. 3. Crisp the ciabatta in a hot oven. 4. Smear the marjarom mayo on the bottom of the ciabatta. 5. Top with tomato, onion and the beef patty. 6. Top with ful imgiddem, fresh

gbejna and a crispy fried zucchini flower. 7. Serve with a side of fries.

The patty

(makes approx 8 120g burgers) • •

1kg fresh beef knuckle chunks 15 g salt

Method

1. Cut the beef into even 3 inch chunks. 2. Place the beef in the freezer for 2030 mins just enough to cool right down to -2°C or until just firm to the touch. It is very important to freeze just until firm not frozen as it helps the meat to be ground properly and evenly. 3. Salt the beef and mix well in a bowl with a metal spoon. 4. Place into a cold fridge at 2-3°C and allow to sit with a lid (not tight fitting) for 12 hours. 5. Although I mince the beef myself, if

you don’t have a mincing machine you can always get the butcher to do it for you. Buy the chunks of beef knuckle and ask him to mince it rather than going for ready minced meat. Go for a ratio of 4:1 meat to white, marbled fat. 6. Shape a 120g beef patty or any size you want, though any less than 100g won’t work as the ciabatta is such bold bread.

Ful imgiddem

Zucchini flowers

• • • • • •

• • • •

Ingredients

Marjoram mayo Ingredients • • • • •

100 g mayo Small sprig of fresh marjoram Pinch of pepper Juice and zest of half a lemon 1 clove garlic

Method 1. 2. 3. 4.

Finely chop the garlic. Zest the lemon. Finely chop marjoram. Mix all ingredients together.

2kg fava beans 4 cloves garlic Splash white vinegar 100ml olive oil Pinch chilli flakes Just cover with water (depending on the dimensions of the pot) Salt and pepper

Method 1. Peel the fava beans. 2. Cook garlic olive oil and beans for around 5 mins on a medium heat 3. Add chilli flakes seasoning and just cover with water. 4. Cover with a lid and cook gently until beans or soft yet slightly al dente. 5. When still warm add a splash of white vinegar.

Ingredients

2 fresh zucchini flowers 100g cornflour 1 tbsp white vinegar 50-100ml sparkling water (adjust for consistency) Pinch white pepper and salt

Method 1. Cut flowers lengthwise in half and wash properly (bugs love to hide within the flower). 2. Mix cornflour, white vinegar, water and seasoning together in a bowl, adjusting the consistency with water until you have a creamy batter. 3. Roll flowers gently in seasoned flour. 4. Dip and submerge flowers in batter and deep fry until golden brown. 5. Place on a kitchen towel and add salt.


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Ingredients

Bacon jam

440g boneless skinless streaky bacon • 1 medium white onion • 50g brown sugar • 50g maple syrup • 180ml brewed black coffee (usin g 3 tbsp coffee) • 60ml balsamic vinegar • 100ml bourbon ��� 1 tsp nutmeg • 1 tsp white pepper

If you’re bored of your usual burgers, try adding this bacon jam – bacon makes everything better. Make a big batch and use the rest on crostini or warm bread, for an indulgent treat.

Method

1. Cook chopped bacon on a med ium heat for 10 mins, rendering most fat into the pot. 2. Remove bacon and sweat onion s in bacon fat until translucent and soft. 3. Return bacon to pot and cook on a high heat until slightly brown. 4. Deglaze pot with vinegar and bourbon, constantly scraping bottom of pot with wooden spoon is a must whilst deglazing. 5. Add remaining ingredients and turn down heat to low. 6. Cook slowly for up to 45 mins or until jam reaches a thick consistency. Note: When the jam cools a thick layer of white fat on top. It protects the jam underneath acting as a natural seal.

Buffalo wings

Perfect fries The perfect chip is by no means “fast”. Start by choosing the perfect potato - the ghajn hamra, sourced from Mellieha and now in season, blanch it until almost breaking and twice fry the potato in good quality oil to achieve a crispy outer chip with a soft fluffy inside and season with Gozo’s best sea salt.

Ingredients • • •

2 large ghajna hamra potatoes Good quality fryer oil Gozitan sea salt

Method

1. Wash and cut the potatoes (skin on) into 1.5 cm thick fries and run under cold water for 3 mins to remove some of the extra starch.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil (10g salt per litre) 3. Place fries in boiling water when water returns to boiling point turn down and simmer gently (important to be gentle not to break the fries). 4. Cook until fries they are almost breaking apart this is the most crucial part so stay with it. 5. Place on a wire rack and refrigerate until cold. 6. When cold cook in fryer at a cool 130°C until they look dry and slightly coloured. 7. Cool again right through in the fridge. 8. Cook for the last time at 190°C until golden brown for approx 8-10 mins. 9. Drain off excess fat and salt with crushed Gozitan sea salt.

Ingredients For the buffalo sauce • • • • • • • •

1 small onion 1 tsp cayenne for mild, 2 for moderate and 3 for hot 1 tsp white pepper 2 tbsp butter 1 tsp salt ½ pint lager 200ml ketchup 1 tbsp BBQ sauce

Blue cheese dip

• •

100g blue cheese 50g mayo

Method

1. Pick out 7 large chicken wings from your butcher and ask him to prepare them for you. He will need to cut off the winglet and cut the wing in two from the joint. 2. Saute the onion in butter, cayenne, salt and white pepper for about 7 mins or until soft and slightly brown. 3. Add remaining ingredients, bring to the boil and turn down heat to low. 4. Cook gently for about 10 mins or

until thick and set aside. 5. To make the dipping sauce, blend the blue cheese with the mayo and refrigerate. 6. Coat wings in seasoned flour and deep fry at 160°C for 5 mins. 7. Place buffalo sauce in a pan and bring to a gentle simmer. 8. Add wings to pan and simmer whilst tossing for a further 2-3 mins (depending on the size of the wings). 9. Serve in a basket with a small tub of blue cheese dip.

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May 2013

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New York Best veggie burger Most fast food is centred around different kinds of meat, so the vegetarian often loses out. After numerous requests for a vegetarian option at New York Best, Tommy and Nicky experimented for months to cup with an option that does not mimick a beef burger but one that accentuates the flavours of their chosen vegetables. It has been so successful that even the meat-eaters are queuing for more. No patties for this burger, it is made up of grilled aubergines and zucchini, Provolone dolce, crispy onions and a spiced ketchup.

New York Best

Esperanto Street, Msida T: 27282899 www.newyorkbest.com.mt www.facebook/newyorkbest


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On a recent trip to Bologna Italy, together with my husband John and sister-in-law Diana we attended a cooking lesson at La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese cooking school owned and run by Alessandra Spisni of La Prova del Cuoco fame on Rai TV. On arrival, we were given an apron and cap, and were introduced to our teacher for the day. He explained that we were going to learn how to make La Sfoglia – the pasta dough, which in turn we would then make into tortellini - to be stuffed with a meat filling, and served in a meat broth (brodo) and tortelloni that is bigger ‘parcels’ to be stuffed with ricotta, cheese, egg and parsley. Here are the recipes we learnt, and although quite time consuming, the difference between shop-bought and homemade is worth the effort.

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photography by ray attard

Homemade tortellini


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La sfoglia Ingredients • •

300g 00 flour 3 very fresh eggs

Method

clean surface (we 1. Put the flour in a ‘ring’ on a fully breaking care and d) boar en wood had a the centre of the into them your three eggs, put circle. r fold the flour 2. With your hands or a pastry slice mass. over the eggs, mixing them into a the flour all ng mixi s hand your with 3. Continue ball. a form into the eggs till you of your hands for 4. Knead this ball with the palm and elastic. To th smoo is it till a good 10 mins enough, cut the it ded ensure that you have knea ce of the cut surfa the if see and half in h doug kneading, more s need it h roug part is smooth. If together otherwise, put the two halves back place your into a ball and taking a plastic bag, the corners smooth dough into this, folding all Put into fridge so no air can get into the dough. t broth. mea and g fillin the while you prepare

The filling for the tortellini Ingredients • • •

• • • • • •

100g minced fresh pork 30g butter chios or 100g Italian mortadella with no pista additions 100g Parma ham 50g freshly grated Parmesan 1 egg Salt/pepper Nutmeg t broth, or A dash of wine, and a cup of mea stock

Method

epan and add the 1. Melt butter in a medium sauc tes till meat minu few a minced pork, cook for r. colou ges chan orate, then add 2. Add the wine and let this evap tes longer till the stock and cook for a few minu ed. cook well meat is add the finely 3. Put this into a mixing bowl and ped Parma chop y finel and la adel mort ped chop . finer e mak to ess proc or ham. Mix well pepper and 4. Add the egg, Parmesan, salt, nutmeg. 5. Set aside till needed.

gourmet today

May 2013


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The meat broth for the tortellini Ingredients

• 500g fresh beef for brodo • Some beef bones • 1 part of chicken • 1 celery stalk • 1 onion • Pinch rock salt /pepper • 1 carrot • 2 beef cubes

Method

1. Put water into a large pot, add piece of beef, the chicken, the vegetables left whole and the salt and some pepper. 2. Bring to the boil, lower temperatu re and simmer for a good two hours or more, till all the flavour from the meat, bones and vegetables has gone into this broth. 3. Taste for seasoning and if not tasty enough, add a beef cube or more seasoning. 4. Strain the broth keeping the liqui d and putting the meat and vegetables aside (These can be eaten with olive oil, fresh garlic and parsley). 5. Keep the broth in which to cook your tortellini.

The tortellini Ingredients

• •

Some semolina A plant spray with drinkable water

Method

1. Bring your pasta dough to room temperature, and on a lightly floured surface roll out your dough with a long rolling pin. 2. Continue rolling, pressing down the rolling pin with your palms and pushing from the centre outwards, turning the rolled dough as you go along. 3. Continue like this until you have a large circle of thin pasta dough. 4. With a knife or the special torte llini cutting tool, cut down and across till you have lots of smal l squares measuring 38mm x 38mm. Also to prevent doug h drying out while you make the tortellini, lightly spray water from a plant sprayer 5. Bring your tortellini filling to the work table, and taking each square one by one, slightly stret ch the square with your hands, place a small amount of the filling in the middle, bring two corners together to form a triangle and press all sides together, then fold the two corners around your thumb until they meet, press them together firmly and form a crescent. 6. Carefully place these tortellini on a tray lightly dusted with semolina and continue until all your dough is used up. 7. When all your tortellini are mad e, either open freeze them till ready to use,-once frozen you can put them in a freezer bag or box, or place tray in front of a fan and allow to dry till you want to cook them. Alternativ ely if your broth is ready and you are ready to serve them cook the tortellini freshly made. 8. To cook your tortellini, bring the prepared broth to the boil, and when simmering, add the torte llini and cook until they rise to the surface and the colour is lighter. 9. Check one to make sure they are cooked through, and when ready, ladle a good amount of tortellini and broth into a soup tureen or individual soup plate s, and serve at once. Note : If freezing the tortellini, do not thaw when you are ready to cook them, but put into the simmering broth while still frozen .

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RIBENA is a registered trade mark of the GlaxoSmithKline group of companies


May 2013

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The Tortelloni To make the tortelloni, make another amount of the pasta dough possibly using 500g flour and 5 eggs (as the Tortelloni are larger than the Tortellini and you eat more as they are served with a sauce not in a soup). This time after rolling the dough, cut out squares measuring 55mm x 55mm.

RIBENA is a registered trade mark of the GlaxoSmithKline group of companies

The tortelloni filling Ingredients • • • • • •

½ kilo fresh ricotta 100g freshly grated Parmesan Handful of finely chopped parsley 1 egg, beaten. Salt and pepper Pinch nutmeg

• •

2 tbsp fresh cream 1 tbsp semolina

Method

1. Mix altogether till well blended, set aside while making pasta dough etc 2. When you have rolled out your pasta dough, cut out large squares, and continue as before filling the squares with the ricotta filling and folding into large crescents. Set aside. 3. These tortelloni can be served with a simple fresh tomato sauce, or also with a white sauce.

Simple fresh tomato sauce Ingredients • • • • • •

1kg fresh tomatoes blanched in boiling water, peeled and chopped, seeds squeezed away. 4 tbsp tomato purée (kunserva) 6 cloves garlic peeled and chopped 4 tbsp oil 2 tbsp butter Handful of fresh basil leaves

• Rock salt, freshly ground pepper • 2 tbsp sugar

Method

1. Heat olive oil and butter in pan, add garlic and cook till golden. 2. Add chopped tomatoes and tomato purée mashing with a fork or potato masher. 3. Cook for a while till thicked, add salt, pepper and sugar. 4. Continue to cook until thick and creamy. 5. Set aside till ready to serve with your tortelloni. You can also serve tortelloni with this creamy Alfredo sauce

Sauce ‘Alfredo’ Ingredients • • • •

100g butter 150ml fresh cream 100g Parmesan, grated ½ chicken stock cube

• • • • •

2 tbsp corn flour 100ml milk or more if needed Some finely chopped parsley Grated nutmeg (optional) Salt and freshly ground black or white pepper

Method

1. Put butter into medium saucepan over a low heat. 2. When melted add the corn flour and mix to a roux, then add the chicken stock cube and cream, stirring all the time. 3. Season with a pinch of salt and lots of pepper and the nutmeg if desired. 4. Mix vigorously until all the ingredients are blended and the sauce thickens. 5. Add enough milk to make a thick creamy consistency – whisk well. 6. When your tortelloni are cooked, mix them carefully into this sauce, adding the grated Parmesan and parsley if using. 7. Pass round the pepper mill and extra Parmesan.


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May 2013

Strawberry shortcake

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ways of using one is always looking for different With so many strawberries around, it filled and biscu half cake half a , rites my favou this wonderful fruit. Here is one of cream. Yummy! topped with lots of strawberries and in a preheated oven at 190°C for 20 out Ingredients mins or until golden and firm. Turn cool. to • 225g self-raising flour leave and onto a rack hull • 1 level tsp baking powder 7. To prepare the filling, wash and for few a rve • ¼ tsp salt Rese es. berri straw the a • 75g butter or margarine decoration and crush the rest with n beate • 1 egg, fork. Sprinkle them with 2-3 level tbsp • 1-2 tbsp milk (optional) of sugar. ining • 75g sugar 8. Whip up the cream with the rema ing r. Fill suga cold, • 600g strawberries 9. When the shortcake is almost ly, • 4 level tbsp caster sugar split very carefully in half, horizontal cream . fresh l knife • 150m with a long 10. Put the bottom half on a serving ed platter and spread half of the crush Method it. wich tin. over sand es h) berri (8inc straw cm 20.5 a se Grea 1. on salt 11. Place the other half of the cake 2. Sift the flour, baking powder and the of rest the d sprea and top of this into a bowl. over this. es berri straw ed in. rub crush and fat the 3. Add of the 12. Top with the whipped cream and 4. Stir in the sugar and add a little decorate with the reserved whole egg at a time, mixing well until it is . ssary nece if milk little strawberries. a blended. Use Knead lightly. d in your This and similar recipes can be foun 5. Lightly flour a surface and turn festa’ a’s ‘Pipp d book ing roun a winn d into awar Pippa’s dough onto this. Form and a available at all leading books shops with your hands and then roll out to online. 20.5cm (8inch) circle. bake 6. Press it into the prepared tin and

Wine and Dine with P. Cutajar & Co. Ltd Win a table for two worth €100 and experience one of the popular P.Cutajar Wine and Dine events which will take place on 19 June at Pane e Olio. A five- co urse meal with a dish paired to a different wine from Fazio of Erice in Sicily will be the highlight of th e evening

This year P.Cutajar & Co Ltd launches a new concept which will give wine lovers more than one opportunity in which to sample it’s extensive wine list and learn more about wine. Rather than putting all its bottles into one casket and holding the annual P.Cutajar wine experience, usually held in June, the company has decided to target wine lovers more specifically through a series of small select and intimate wine events which will be held at various top restaurants around Malta and Gozo. Through these intimate dining events P.Cutajar will be giving prominence to each brand of wine from its vast portfolio against a relevant background of food and ambience. This way wine aficionados will also have more than one opportunity to sample P.Cutajar wines and learn about their regions and

provenance. “We felt it was time to evolve and move away from one large event providing wine lovers with a unique opportunity to enjoy a great meal paired with the right wines in the right ambience. Through our international contacts we also plan to invite wine experts to attend these evenings to talk about their wine providing an interesting and entertaining element to what promises to be a great evening out” said Matthew Cuomo, P.Cutajar’s resident wine expert. The price of the dinner is €50 per person and includes the full menu, wines, coffee and water. For more information find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/WineClubMalta

What wines are cultivated in the terrior of Enice?

Send in your answers to gourmet@mediatoday.co m.mt by 10 June and be in with a chance to win. For more information vis it P.Cutajar Wine Club Malt a


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gourmet today

Under the Tuscan sun

May 2013

The idyllic break at Villa Cassia

Hi, Allow us to introduce you to Vil la century as an olive mil . It can Cassia, built originally in the 16th be countryside, surrounded by fie found in the heart of the Arno val ey lds of sunflowers, vineyards, cy and olive groves. press The villa consists of 13 beautif ul suites, fully managed, south fa ly furnished one and two bedroom cin and full size swimming pool. Th g building with landscaped gardens e apartments are available for rentals. holiday The villa is perfectly located at the growing area. It is easy to get eastern edge of the Chianti wine to to enjoy the Tuscan countrysid and makes a great base from which e. road built by the Roman Empe Originally built on Cassia Vetus, the ror Cassio, Villa Cassia stil pro cel ent access to the north and vid south. It is just 50 minutes aw es exFlorence and 20 minutes from ay from the the airports of Pisa and Bologn old city wal s of Arezzo, Siena, and a are just two hours away.

For more informatio n visit www.villaca ssiadibaccano.it or contact us by emai l on jdegiorgio@gia npula.com or rdegiorgio@gianpul a.com.

A presto, Roger & Josianne de Giorgio

Villa Cassia lies in the heart of Tuscany, the region that brought the world the renaissance, close to Ponte Buriano, the backdrop used by Leonardo da Vinci in his famous ‘Mona Lisa’. Originally built in the sixteenth century as an olive mill by the Capponi family, one of Tuscany’s most famous families, Villa Cassia can be found in the heart of the Arno valley countryside, surrounded by fields of sunflowers, vineyards, cypess and olive groves on the Strada del vino leading to Arezzo. Of course when you think of Tuscany, thoughts immediately go to food, traditional dishes and flavours which are known and admired throughout the world. The Italians pay painstaking attention to quality and flavour and

Tuscany is surely one of the greatest spots to pick up some tasty dishes. To get the best experience of the food, why not embark upon a cooking course with one of Tuscany’s most famous chefs, Paolo Teverini. Having grown up between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna, Teverini has been a Michelin starred chef since 1983 and will take you on a culinary journey from the market, where you can source your own ingredients, through the kitchen processes and right up to the enjoyment of the meal together with some of Tuscany’s finest wines. But Tuscany isn’t only about food. There is a great list of other things to do. For those seeking relaxation and well-being, get a massage or join a yoga or


May 2013

meditation class. The rolling hills and classic scenery are sure to chase away any stress the outside world has imposed on you. For the more active travellers, try hiking, horseriding or cycling. Outdoor-lovers will find a number of solutions to make their stay dynamic and full of emotion. Florence and the best of Tuscany is within easy reach of Villa Cassia. Siena with its architectural beauty and its no holds-barred Palio horse race, San Gimignano, the most easily recognisable Tuscan town with its fourteen towers, Lucca with its perfectly preserved sixteenth century walls and Montalcino famous for its Brunello di Montalcino wines are all within a two hour radius of Villa Cassia.

gourmet today

Not far to the south is Corton, where Under the Tuscan Sun, from the name of the same book was filmed. The perfect base to enjoy the best of what Tuscany has to offer Villa Cassia. The Villa offers just 13 suites, each furnished to a particular level of refinement, which have been professionally interior-designed. Each spectacular one or two-bedroomed suite is south facing and enjoys views of the landscaped gardens and full sized swimming pool. Muted colours, stylish accessories and classic furnishings all set the tone for a luxury holiday. Simple kitchens suit the Tuscan way of life while particular attention is reserved for the luxury bathrooms, a place where

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travellers can truly unwind and pamper themselves. How to get there The airports of Pisa and Bologna with direct flights to and from Malta are just two hours drive away from Villa Cassia. The resort is just off the A1 motorway, one hour from Florence. Whatever the reason for a break from life’s daily routine, Tuscany is the perfect spot to revive yourself and seek the inspiration you’ve been lacking.


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gourmet today

May 2013

Quaker Oats make it taste just right

a breakfast cereal. st ju an th e or m h uc m Oats are so into me simple ingredients Tom Devenish turns so chy Quaker texture at un cr at th th wi ls ea m fantastic ty at’s cheese with an oa go ed fri – a m ie Sl in ’s Fresco g ble with an oaty toppin um cr ar pe h ric a d an r batte th crème anglaise. and a silky warm smoo

Quaker Oats are imported and distributed by Quintano Foods. Tel: 2381 4556, Email: info@quintanofoods.com

www.facebook.com/GoHealthyMT


May 2013

gourmet today

Fresh goat’s cheese with Quaker oats and walnuts

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Ingredients

• 1 fresh goat’ s cheese • 100g Quaker oats • 50g walnuts • 1 egg • Flour (to du st) • 1 tbsp hone y

Onion jam

• • • •

1 onion 15g butter 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 tsp sugar

Method

1. Crush walnu ts and combine with oats. 2. Dust the goat’ s cheese in flour and coat wi th the whisked egg, oats and nut mix and shallow fry until golden. 3. For the jam, slice the onion and sauté in the butter until soft. 4. Add the vineg ar and sugar and reduce until sticky. 5. Arrange on a fresh rocket salad with crushed walnuts.

Serves 4

Ingredients • • • •

6 semi ripe pears 40g brown sugar ¼ cinnamon stick 100ml white wine

Quaker oat topping • • • •

70g Quaker oats 20g unsalted butter 30g flour 10g brown sugar

Crème anglaise • • • • •

2 egg yolks 100g caster sugar 100ml cream 50ml milk 1 vanilla pod

Method

1. Peel, core and dice pears. 2. Bring wine to the boil with the sugar. 3. Add pears and cinnamon and simmer

for 10 mins or until soft. 4. Combine all ingredients for the topping and work between the fingers, rubbing until butter is well mixed and a crumbly texture is achieved. 5. For the sauce whisk eggs and sugar with vanilla pod and over a low heat 6. Add the milk and cream slowly until a thin custard is formed. 7. Press pears into individual rings, add crumble mix on top and gently press it down. 8. Add to a preheated oven at 185°C for 10 mins or until golden on top. 9. Serve with the warm sauce.

photography by Michael Calleja

Pear cr umble with crème anglaise


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gourmet today

May 2013

Phoenicia’s executive chef builds a kitchen concept around fresh ingredients Phoenicia’s executive chef Saul Halevi has brought a new concept to the kitchens of the Phoenicia, all centred around fresh ingredients. He says Malta is one of the best places in the world for fish and has built a menu that incorporates the fresh fare our seas have to offer alongside vegetables grown in the Phoenicia’s own gardens. The new Mediterranean kitchen is being brought to life at Phoenicia Hotel by Executive Chef Saul Halevi. His kitchen garden, 4,000 square metres of the Phoenicia’s own gardens are the birthplace of some of the ingredients that end up on the menu at Pegasus. The Maltese have gained a vast awareness of what constitutes good food, both from a flavour point of view and also from a health perspective. Yet many feel to harried to hunt down the freshness, quality and technical know-how that is the signature of Halevi’s Mediterranean dishes. Chef Halevi’s kitchen garden will provide food for 80% of the meals at Pegasus and form part of display dinners. Its most important role will be to change the culinary culture to a natural kitchen and make a statement about healthy, locally grown fruit and vegetables at a time when obesity and diabetes have become a national concern in Malta. Phoenicia’s kitchen garden currently contains broccoli, two different types of tomatoes, red cabbage, onions, various herbs, lettuce and assorted watermelons, all on a three-month cycle. Saul brings his light touch from Central Italy and Sardinia, where he has been working for discerning clients who appreciate better flavour, good living and the best of health. Saul Halevi is a highly creative international chef who has held executive positions at Forte Village in Sardinia, Italy, as well as with the Sheraton in Spain, Unilever in Greece and in his native Israel, where he specialised in consulting and cooking for openings of new outlets. Halevi is paired with Phoenicia’s new Food & Beverage Manager Francesco Perricone. Prior to his appointment in Malta’s longest-established 5-star hotel, Perricone was at the Parc Hotel Paradiso & Golf Hotel in Italy, was Food & Beverage Director at the Hua Hin Mariott in Thailand, and Assistant Food & Beverage Director at the Shangri-La Mactan Resort & Spa in the Philippines and previously at the Grand Hyatt in Dubai.

Halevi says that, “eating well means enjoying a good business meal, celebration dinner, or a nice night out, and knowing at the back of your mind that what you are eating is good for your body, good for your health.” He is very excited at the prospect of preparing fresh dishes in Malta, where culinary traditions combine with the short distances that fresh ingredients have to travel so they pack more flavour and nutrients. “Now our clients can enjoy succulent seafood, fresh salads straight from our garden 200 metres from the kitchen, and delightful desserts where all the materials are sourced here - fresh, just like the beautiful fresh fish that comes up daily from Marsaxxlokk, St. Paul’s Bay or Gozo, this fish is just as good as anything we had in Sardinia, Malta is one of the best places in the world for fish – even Japanese even come to buy their tuna here – so we have built our entire kitchen concept around that.” “I love to cook,” he continues, “to think about a dish, sourcing the highest quality raw materials, cooking and serving and then watching the client take the first bite. “We are also blessed with a spectacular panoramic view of the Mediterranean and 7.5 acres of lush gardens. Among the best reasons to come and experience Pegasus now is the fresh local bounty, some of which is grown in our very own herb garden and showcased in virtually every menu item.” “While remaining true to basic culinary principles, the culinary team at Pegasus pursues out-of-the-box techniques, presentations, flavour sensations, tastes and textures - with display cooking happening next to your table a lot of the time.” Halevi is defining a cuisine that is truly rooted in Malta, innovating local dishes, such as creating a mousse with traditional helwa tat-tork to serve with his desserts. Built in 1939, Phoenicia was Malta’s first five-star hotel, giving it a wealth of history and a unique charm standing proudly on the doorstep to Valletta. The recently refurbished interior harbours an imposing Art Deco influence sustaining 128 bedrooms and 8 suites, afford-

Phoenicia’s Executive Chef Saul Halevi and Francesco Perricone, Food & Beverage Manager, put an accent on fresh ingredients - pictured in the hotel’s new 4000 square metre kitchen garden.

ing some truly majestic panoramic views from most rooms and terraces. The stunning seven and a half acre garden allows guests to stroll through a tropical array of lush plants, flowers and trees on the way to the hotel’s magnificent pool nestled within the Valletta bastions. Visitors and guests can wine and dine in a splendid choice of settings, whether it’s haute cuisine at the Phoenix restaurant, an indulgent afternoon tea in The Palm Court Lounge, a cooling cocktail at in the comfortable Club Bar, or a flambé dinner at the Pegasus. For further information see www.phoeniciamalta.com or www.facebook.com/phoeniciahotel


May 2013

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gourmet today

Entertaining at home this usually being the starter, while the mains would just need finishing off and the dessert ready in the fridge. Rule number 2: Plan your menu ahead and write it down and try to stick to it. Buy your stuff early and do not leave everything for the last day. Rule number 3: Set the table the day before – one headache less. Rule number 4: Try to relax and enjoy yourself otherwise it is really not worth all the work. The following three dishes are great and tick all the right boxes and follow the rules to the letter.

Michael Diacono is chef patron at Giuseppi’s in Mellieha and Rubino in Valletta. Please call him on 99493579 regarding functions over the festive season.

Fresh ravioli with broad beans and pecorino (serves 4)

Ingredients

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

300g plain white flour, sifted 3 whole eggs 1 egg yolk Pinch of salt 1 tbs olive oil 500 g broad beans (ful), shelled from both skins 150g grated pecorino 2 cups fresh breadcrumbs Freshly ground pepper A handful of chopped parsley 1 egg Melted butter or extra virgin olive oil to serve Fresh mint

Method

1. To prepare the pasta place all the ingredients in a food processor and blend till the pastry forms a ball. Do not overwork. Wrap in clingfilm and leave to rest in the fridge for not less than 1 hour . 2. Place a pot of water on the heat and bring to the boil. Season with some salt then blanch the beans for just 3 mins then drain and refresh in cold water. 3. Drain well and blitz in the proc essor till chopped coarsley but do not puree. 4. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and the grated cheese, breadcrumbs, pepper and parsley and mix well. Bind with the egg. 5. Roll pastry out till quite thin and fill with the bean mix. Form ravioli shapes and seal well. Place the ravioli on a flat tray and freeze. Keep in the freezer till needed.

6. To serve, simply boil from froze n and serve in either melted butter or warmed extra virgi n olive oil infused with a few mint leaves.

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photography by Ray Attard

Having people over is a great way of socialising and relaxing in the comfort of your home without the hassle of driving and trying to find a place to park. Another great plus is being able to have rowdy conversations and discussions without the disapproving looks of surrounding people at other tables in a restaurant, and best of all, should one have an extra drink or two, the bed is just up the stairs and not miles away. The down sides are obviously that one has to provide food and clean up after. The answer is careful planning and rules. Rule number 1: Only have one dish that needs cooking when the guests are home,


May 2013

gourmet today

Quail with a pistachio an d spinach filling

35

(serves 4)

Ingredients

• • • • • • • • • • • •

4 boneless quails 8 rashers of streaky bacon 400g cooked spinach (you may use frozen spinach leaves) 175g shelled pistachio nuts, roug hly chopped 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs 1 clove garlic, finely chopped Salt and pepper Some grated nutmeg Seasoned flour Oil for frying 1 onion, finely chopped 400ml Port or good red wine

Method

1. Drain the spinach well and pres s out as much of the moisture as possible. 2. Transfer to a mixing bowl and add the nuts. 3. Mix in the breadcrumbs and garlic then season with grated nutmeg, salt and pepper. 4. Place the quail flat on a boar d and season. 5. Fill with the spinach and roll up well. 6. Wrap with the bacon rashers and secure with toothpicks. 7. Heat some olive oil in a fryin g pan. Roll the quail in the flour and fry for a few mins till browned all over. 8. Add the chopped onion and cook for a few minutes till softened then douse carefully with the Port . 9. Reduce for 5 mins then trans fer to a baking dish covered with foil for reheating later . 10. To serve, heat oven to 200°C and place quail in the oven for 20 mins only. You may cut them down the middle before serving.

Roast baby new potatoes

Ingredients

• • • • •

Baby new potatoes Olive oil Coarse sea salt Sprig of fresh rosemary Cracked black pepper

Method

1. Wash the potatoes well then make several cuts with a sharp knife but never cutting right through so that the potatoes remain whole. 2. Place into a mixing bowl and drizzle with olive oil and coarse sea salt flakes. 3. Add some rosemary leaves and cracked pepper. 4. Transfer to a shallow baking tray and cover with foil. 5. Keep in the fridge till needed. 6. Cook at 200°C, uncovered for 45 mins.

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May 2013

gourmet today

Baked honey cheesecake Serves 8 to 10

Ingredients

• • • • • • • • •

480g honey 150ml fresh cream 110g brown sugar 350g cream cheese 70g white sugar 3 eggs 1 vanilla pod 680g mascarpone 120g cantuccini or other hard biscuits, coarsely crushed

Method

1. You will need one 27cm spring form tin which seals well and a larger baking tin to act as a Bain Marie. 2. Heat the honey and reduce by half then add the fresh cream. Mix well and keep aside. 3. Grease the spring form tin with butter and sprinkle the brown sugar all over to coat the base and sides. 4. Preheat oven to 180°C. 5. Whisk the cream cheese with the white sugar till well

amalgamated then add the eggs one at a time. 6. Split the vanilla pod length wise and scrape out the seeds. Add to the cream cheese. 7. Whisk in the mascarpone, but only till all the lumps are worked out. Do not over beat. 8. Mix in half the amount of the honey cream. 9. Pour into the prepared tin and flatten the top. 10. Place into the larger baking tin and fill with hot water till halfway up. Cover with foil. 11. Bake for 45 mins then remove the foil and reduce oven temperature to 170°C. 12. Cook for a further 30 mins. Turn off the heat and leave to cool. 13. When ready to serve loosen the sides with a sharp knife and warm the base lightly with a warm cloth to release the bottom. 14. Serve topped with the crushed cantuccini and the remaining honey cream.

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May 2013

gourmet today

39

resto review

photography by ray attard

Salvino’s

New favourites in the heart of the city Valletta’s seen a bit of a revival with more and more restaurants, cafés and bars opening up, giving life to the ghost town our capital city becomes at night. Salvino’s has recently changed hands and since 4 April has been run under Steve Mamo, who transformed the place into what has become my new favourite restaurant. I had heard a lot of good things about Salvino’s before I went there. For a mid-week break from life’s monotony, we trundled off to Valletta ready for a fantastic meal to come. Salvino’s has always been a dark and dingy place, that always looked like it could use a visit from Kim Woodburn and Aggie MacKenzie from the UK television programme How Clean is Your House? When we got there it seems like, they’ve had more than the cleaners in and

given the place a proper revamp. Built by the knights the restaurant served as a bomb shelter during the war and as a prison later on. After its revamp, I can’t imagine anyone being too unhappy about a sentence to Salvino’s! The beautiful old stone has been treated, so it’s no longer peeling off the ceiling and falling into your plate. The dark colours have been replaced with bright whites and better lighting gives the place a cleaner, airier feel that is still warm and cosy. One thing they have kept at the new Salvino’s is the bright and bubbly Samira at front of house. With a warm smile and friendly attitude she knows the score and is happy to have a chat and recommend her favourites. The menu is short – as it should be with a balance of a few starters, pasta dishes, salads, meats, fish and desserts to ensure that everything remains fresh. There is also a specials board with dishes that change daily depending

on what fresh ingredients are available at the market that day. What is most impressive about the menu is the flavour and texture combinations that Steve puts into the menus – pasta with vongole and truffle oil, octopus with a chickpea purée, carpaccio of beef with horseradish icecream, banana tarte tatin with bacon and peanut butter ice-cream (more raving about this ice-cream to come later). Every bite seems to be so tender and juicy it is unbelievable. Talking to Steve later in the evening, he explains why. Almost every item on the menu is cooked sousvide – a French method of cooking whereby ingredients – meat and vegetables – are placed into an air-tight plastic bag and cooked in a water bath for long periods of time at an accurately regulated, lower than normal temperature. The idea is that food is cooked evenly and the outside does not get done before the inside resulting in juicier meats. For starters we went for the beef carpaccio served with roasted beetroots and a horseradish ice-cream and octopus salad with chickpea purée. While beef and horseradish are normally associated together, the ice-cream adds a texture that is truly unique – and simply delicious. I wasn’t very excited about the octopus salad until I took

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Salvino’s

40

gourmet today

the first bite. The flavours really do go very well and the octopus has to have been the most tender I have ever eaten. A quick in-between of linguine with vongole and truffle oil and another pasta dish with asparagus, ricotta, mushrooms and more truffle oil were simply divine. Though getting quite full by this stage it seems impossible to stop eating to leave room for what is still to come. For mains we had pork cheeks, served with a deep fried pork fillet in panko breadcrumbs and some beautifully sautéed julienne vegetables. The pork cheeks were so tender and juicy you could cut them with a fork and the fillet was such a perfect combination of juicy meat and crispy breadcrumbs. And then there’s dessert. This was by far my favourite – a banana tarte tatin served with bacon and peanut butter ice-cream. I’ve always been a fan of salt in my desserts and bacon makes everything better. A recipe of chocolate covered bacon earned me three marriage proposals in 20 minutes at one party I attended last summer but this is icecream is as original as it is spectacular. There are no words to explain how truly yummy this is. My only advice is to swing by and try it. This dish really is a testament to Steve’s creativity in the kitchen. This was a dish he created at the last minute on opening night as he thought the menu needed another dessert. I, for one, am certainly glad he did! The verdict of the place? This has to be my new favourite restaurant. So much so that I booked the entire restaurant the following week to celebrate my birthday with friends. If you haven’t already tried it, then what are you waiting for?

Salvino’s is open from Monday to Friday for lunch and Wednesday to Saturday for dinner. 32, Archbishop Street, Valletta 21246437 facebook.com/salvinosrestaurant Edward Di liberto, Samira Al Tumi and Steve Mamo, the new team behind Salvino’s

roasted beetroots Beef capaccio with cream and horseradish iceSer ves 2

Ingredients

• 250g fillet of beef ee • 20g roasted ground coff e thym of ig Spr • • Sprig of rosemary per • Salt and crushed black pep oil e oliv l • 50m

Beetroots

• 2 beetroots • 100ml balsamic vinegar • 50g dark brown sugar • Sprig of rosemary • Salt and pepper

Horseradish ice-cream Makes 2 litres ice-cream

• 1 litre milk • 200g glucose syrup • 150ml double cream • 10 egg yolks • 100g sugar • ¾ tsp gelatine • 400g horseradish sauce • Juice of 1 lemon • Salt and pepper

Method

rosemary, 1. Place the beef, coffee, per in thyme, olive oil, salt and pep k at coo and bag led sea a vacuum 56°C for 45 mins. hot grill 2. Sear the fillet on a very slice for 1 min on each side and thinly. ts and 3. Peel and quarter beetroo place in a roasting tin with mary, balsamic vinegar, sugar, rose salt and pepper. t for approx 4. Cover with foil and roas er. tend il unt s min 1 hour 15 put the 5. To make the ice-cream m, milk, glucose, double crea ce in gelatine and horseradish sau . a pot and bring to a simmer the egg 6. In a separate bowl whisk the yolks and sugar and pour into . ture mix milk hot an 7. Allow to cool and put into w the ice-cream machine and follo . ions ruct inst r’s ture manufac f with 8. Serve thin slices of bee and a et rock t, troo bee ted roas cream. iceish erad scoop of hors

May 2013


41

gourmet today

Glazed pork cheeks with crispy pork fillet Ser ves 2

Ingredients Pork cheeks

• 4 pork cheeks, cleaned and trimmed • 1 medium onion • 2 celery sticks • 1 carrot • 1 clove garlic • 25g tomato paste (kunserv a) • 50g honey • 100ml cider • 500ml chicken stock • Spring of thyme • Salt and pepper

Pork fillet

• 400g pork fillet • 2 tsp English mustard • Sprig of thyme • Salt and pepper • Panko breadcrumbs • Vegetable oil, for deep fryin g • Flour • 1 egg

ith bacon Banana tarte tatin w e-cream and peanut butter ic r over the remaining Ser ves 2

Ingredients

• 2 bananas • 400g sugar • 1 vanilla pod • 50ml spiced rum • 50g butter • Sheet puff pastry

Bacon ice-cream

• 500ml double cream • 3 egg yolks • 70g sugar • 2 vanilla beans • 100g pancetta • 2 tbsp maple syrup • 1 tbsp peanut butter

Method

1. Place the sugar in a pan over low heat until it starts to caramelise then add the split vanilla bean. 2. Add the rum and butter and set aside. rox 3. Slice the bananas app 2cm thick and toss them in the hot caramel. and 4. Place in a tart mould

pou caramel. 5. Cover with puff pastry and bake at 200°C until golden, then flip out of the mould. 6. To make the bacon icecream place the bacon in a pan over low heat and render the fat. Cook till

crispy. 7. Add the maple syrup and set aside. m 8. Place the double crea and vanilla pod in a pot and bring to a simmer, then set aside. sk 9. In a separate bowl whi the egg yolks and sugar, then add the hot cream while whisking. 10. Allow to cool then add the bacon and peanut butter and place in an ice-cream machine and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. n 11. Serve the hot tarte tati with a scoop of bacon and peanut butter ice-cream.

Method

1. Seal the pork cheeks in a hot pan with some oil. 2. Roughly chop the veg and sweat in a pot. 3. Add the sealed cheeks with the tomato paste and thyme and cook for a couple of mins. 4. Add the honey, cider and chicken stock and cook until tender and glazed. 5. Place the pork, mustard , thyme, salt and pepper in a vacuum-sealed bag and cook at 64°C for 45 mins. 6. Remove from the bag and pat dry. 7. Roll in flour, egg and breadcrumbs and deep fry at 180°C until golden. 8. Serve the cheeks and fillet of pork with julienned vegetables.

Salvino’s

May 2013


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May 2013

gourmet today

The heart of your home

Your kitchen is the heart of your home and what makes it really yours are the individual items you put in it – your favourite crockery, glassware and even that coffee machine you just couldn’t start your day without. Check out some of this summer’s must-haves.

Kant stools Designed by renown designer Karim Rashid and produced by Casamania. Kant is the stool inspired by the words of the philosopher, that blurs the lines between art and nature. Produced in recyclable reinforced polypropylene, Kant has a carrying capacity of up to 200 kg/440 lbs. of weight despite its characteristic cantilevered construction. In the fixed version, the seat’s independence from the structure also allows interchange ability between the various colours. Suitable for indoor and outdoor use. www.loft.com.mt

Kulsan Thermoset Tableware

Kulsan Thermoset Tableware, a revolutionary line of highly hygienic tableware made from melamine. This tableware is ultra break resistant, excellent for outdoor use - even more durable than Porcelain, Ceramic, Stoneware and Opal Glass. Knife scratches are practically invisible, even when scratched. This line of crockery is ultra safe with food, suitable for both hot and cold foods, no cadmium or lead may be found in the material and it preserves its anti-

bacterial & hygienic structure even when the plates do get scratched. All the range of Kulsan Thermoset is dishwasher safe and heat resistant. Food temperature is also preserved for a long time, temperatures may vary from 20 C to + 120 C degrees. Tested and approved by International laboratories. Kulsan Thermoset Tableware is found exclusively at CoseCasa, Balzan. Tel: 21447672 or visit www.cosecasa.com.

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Get the real Italian espresso experience with Lavazza a Modo Mio Cappuccino and latte macchiato are the most beloved symbols of the Italian Cafeteria tradition. From today you can finally enjoy them in the comfort of your own home thanks to the new Lavazza A Modo Mio Favola Cappuccino. The guarantee of a perfect result is given by the superior quality and authentic taste of A Modo Mio espresso, and Lavazza’s patented Click’n Cappuccino technology, which combines a steam jet action (at the optimum temperature) with the movement of the frother, which simulates the gesture of the most expert of Italian baristas.

Offer starts @ €149

The A Modo Mio coffee machine is now available in Malta only from The Store at P.Cutajar & Co. Ltd. in San Gwann. www.pcutajar.com.mt, facebook.com/AModoMioMalta.

Stackable metal wine rack

Polycarbonate clear glassware Polycarbonate clear glassware ideal for outdoor entertainment at home or on boats. Polycarbonate glassware is virtually unbreakable and dishwasher safe too. Price from € 5.50 Gifts & More Level 1 Topline Centre, St. Andrew’s road St. Andrew ’s (opposite Luxol ) www.giftsandmore.com.mt Tel : 21372256

Wine Rack – A free standing, stackable metal wine rack that interlock onto each other to grow with your wine collection. Also available in black & white : Price €32.00 from Gifts & More Level 1 Topline Centre St. Andrew’s road St. Andrew ’s (opposite Luxol ) www.giftsandmore.com.mt Tel : 21372256


May 2013

Cisk Chill Cisk Chill is a lemon-flavoured lager beer with 4% alcohol and makes an ideal refreshing summery tasting product, just great for chilling out and relaxing at the end of a hot summer’s day. Cisk Chill is a further extension to the Cisk family which also includes Cisk Lager, Cisk Export Premium Lager, Cisk Excel Low-Carb Lager and Cisk Extra Strong Lager. Available in leading outlets across Malta and Gozo. Become a Facebook Fan: www.facebook.com/ciskchill

gourmet today

See yourself on a Kinnie Billboard! Have you ever wanted to be the star of an advertising campaign? Now, you and your friends can see yourselves on large electronic billboards around Malta as part of the new Kinnie advertising campaign. For your image to feature just go to www.facebook.com/ kinnie.mt<http://www.facebook.com/kinnie.mt>, click on the ‘Kinnie Billboard’ application, and follow the instructions. Throughout July and August, Kinnie will be selecting the best images received and including them in its digital advertising campaign. If your image is picked, Kinnie will let you know so you can make sure you and all your friends enjoy your moment of fame.

Kinnie – Taste Life

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gourmet today

May 2013

Barbera - The wine Italy never talks about

Barbera wine is the third most grown red wine type in Italy. Overshadowed for years by more popular Italian reds, this type of red wine is now making a name for itself. Plantings are increasing as other red wine regions also want to see how successfully it grows in their own region. Barbera has long filled-in the low slopes and valleys of Northern Italy. It’s considered a lesser wine to Nebbiolo and, therefore, By John doesn’t earn the best grape-growing real estate (such as South-facing slopes on hills above the ‘nebbia’ or fog). Despite its lowly position, Barbera is the quintessential “wine of the people”, it’s meant to be enjoyed young and it’s inexpensive! This wine grape grows best in warmer climates. The Barbera grapes also ripen later in the season than most other types of red wine grapes. Most Barbera is made to be enjoyed young and appreciated for its distinctive cherry flavours and refreshing acidity. Try these wines on warm days with lighter fare. Barbera lacks deep tannin, and with too much age, wines can be prone to oxidation and will develop a brownish hue. This is not to say that wines made from Barbera are overly simple. Rather, they possess an honesty that is a welcome change from the complexity of many other red varietals. 1000 years older than Cabernet Sauvignon? Ampholographers suspect the origin of Barbera goes as far back as the 7th century. Compare that to the more popular Cabernet Sauvignon that has only been around since the 17th century.

Bubbly Barbera – Only in Italy The Colli Piacentini DOC in Emilia-Romagna Northern Italy have several lightly sparkling Barberas that have a similar freshness to Lambrusco or Beaujolais. They are very rare found outside of Italy. Smaller clusters make better Barbera Barbera is a very vigorous grape variety that can produce high yields (up to 10 tons/ hectare) and grows well in sandy soils. The zahra best Barberas, however, tend to be from wellpruned vineyards and smaller grape clusters. More Oak? There is a move to spend a little more money on oak aging wine. This technique is commonly practiced in Amador and Sierra Foothills in California. Barbera wines from this area verge on jammy with rich vanilla and spice flavours. Guide to Barbera Wine A Barbera Wine Profile for aficionados would be the following: • Fruit aromas and flavours: Dark cherry, dried strawberry, plum, blackberry • Other aromas and flavours : Violet, lavender, dried leaves, incense, vanilla, nutmeg, anise • Oak: Yes. Large but neutral oak casks. • Tannin: Low • Acidity: High • Ageability: Traditionally enjoyed within 2-4 years from bottling. Synonyms & Regional Names: Barbare, Barbera d’Alba, Barbera d’Aosta, Barbera Sarda, Barbera d’Asti, Barbera del Monferrato Barbera Wine Regions – 25,454 hectares worldwide but the major sources of production are: • Italy (21,287ha) Alba, Aosta, Asti, Monferrato, Puglia, Sardinia • United States (2832ha) Sierra Foothills, Central Valley, Santa Barbara • Australia (809ha) Mudgee, McClaren Vale, Adelaide Hills • Argentina (526ha) San Juan, Mendoza The Taste of Barbera Wine A mish-mash of flavour, somehow Barbera wine tastes both rich and light-bodied. Why is that you would ask? Well, one reason is that it has dark staining pigments that dye the wine to near-black. However, the taste of Barbera has notes of strawberry and sour cherry: flavours synonymous with light-bodied wines. Light tannin and high acidity make it taste “juicy”. Most of the Barbera you’ll

find is from Italy which leans towards more herbaceous flavours. Serve this wine slightly below room temperature at around 15° to 17° C. Barbera Food Pairing Complementary Pairing Wines and foods that are single-noted can be made whole when put together. With Barbera wines try rich dark meats, mushrooms, herbs, herbaceous cheeses like blue cheese, higher tannin foods like root vegetables & braised greens. The idea here is that the bright acidity in the wine will make a rich fatty or high tannin dish complete. Congruent Pairing Match the flavours within Barbera to make them stand out. Try sour cherry, sage, anise, cinnamon, white pepper, nutmeg, citrus and the Moroccan spice blend called Ras el Hanout. For the less adventurous I would suggest Barbera with our own traditional fried rabbit! Regional Pairing Monferrato’s regional dishes include: tajarin pasta, guinea fowl and porcini stew and carne all’albese (a Piemontese version of steak tartare with Parmesan, olive oil and rocket). Discover this unique little grape and never again feel like you have to revert to ‘Chianti’ when looking for a great valued Italian wine. I always suggest sensible consumption of wine…. to enjoy the wine! Until next time… Cheers, Evviva, Santé, Salud! John M. Zahra Wine Educator vinum@go.net.mt


May 2013

gourmet today

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Michelle Lungaro wins a hamper of Irish goodies Michelle Lungaro won the competition featured in the last issue of Gourmet magazine. The competition was held by the Irish Embassy and the Irish Food Board in collaboration with Gourmet Today. The prize included a variety of Irish goodies including cheeses, dried meats, biscuits, fudge and chocolates among others. For more information visit www.ireland.com The Irish Ambassador Jim Hennessy with winner of the hamper of Irish goodies, Michelle Lungaro (centre) Right, Rachel Zammit Cutajar; left Giulia De Cesaris.

Seafood spaghetti Serves 4

Ingredients • • • • • • •

500g spaghetti 400g clams 400g mussels Borges Olive Oil Garlic Salt Pepper

Method:

1. Bring water with salt to the boil. Add clams until they open themselves and then remove. 2. Repeat the process with mussels. 3. Heat the oil in a wok or large frying pan, add garlic until they brown and then take them out. 4. Bring spaghetti to boil (time indicated in pasta packaging) 5. Mix the pasta with clams, mussels, olive oil and put the browned garlic on top.


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May 2013

gourmet today - events

events

Glengoyne whisky tasting The last bottle of the Glengoyne Limited Edition Forty Years Old Single Malt Whisky, was purchased by a Maltese avid collector. This special bottle was handdelivered by Yvonne Granger, and Arthur MacFarlane from Glengoyne distillery during several whisky tasting events held in Malta recently. Glengoyne Distillery is represented in Malta by NM Arrigo Ltd

Arthur MacFarlane addresses a captivated audience

Glengoyne whisky range

Arthur MacFarlane

Glengoyne whisky range

Gourmet Today recipe index Starters Vietnamese fresh spring rolls........................5 Broad bean ravioli..........................................33 Beef carpaccio with beetroot and horseradish ice-cream...................................40 Oat and goat’s cheese salad ........................28 Mains Roasted pork belly ..........................................6 Gourmet burger.............................................12 Veggie burger...................................................15 Pasta dough ....................................................18 Meat tortellini..................................................18 Ricotta tortelloni ...........................................21 Fresh tomato sauce........................................21 Sauce ‘Alfredo’ ................................................21 Mussels in beer...............................................27 Pork and ale stew ..........................................27 Pistachio stuffed quail . ................................35

Pork cheeks with crispy pork fillet............41 Dessert Brownie cheesecake .......................................9 Strawberry shortcake....................................23 Honey baked cheesecake.............................36 Banana tarte tatin with bacon ice-cream.............................................41 Pear and oat crumble ...................................28 Accompaniments Perfect fries......................................................12 Bacon jam.........................................................13 Buffalo wings...................................................13 Marjoram mayo . ...........................................12 Ful imgiddem...................................................12 Deep fried zucchini flowers........................12 Crunchy roasted potatoes...........................35


Now that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve set the date for your big day, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got one thing left... Our Congratulations! James Caterers is an established market leader in event catering, specialising in weddings, outside catering & private functions.

Velleran Street, Fgura / Tel: 2189 6290 / Web: www.james-caterers.com / eMail: events@james-caterers.com


Win a Tuscan cuisine course with Celebrity Chef Paolo Teverini Be in with the chance to win a Tuscan cuisine course with Celebrity Chef Paolo Teverini, Michelin star chef since 1983 and a four-night stay at Villa Cassia. The prize includes three nights at Villa Cassia along with a Tuscan cooking course from 7 October 2013 to 10 October. Day 1: Meet with the Chef and his staff for an aperitif and an introduction of the course. Day 2: Start the day with a visit to a local market to purchase raw materials, followed by a session in the kitchen learning about tools and kitchen accessories. In the afternoon try your hand at home-made pasta. Day 3: Spend the day cooking, preparing some great Tuscan lunches.

Simply answer the following question and send it in to MediaToday before 15 June 2013 and be in with the chance to win this fantastic prize.

What is PICI and from which Tuscan town does it owe its origin? NAME: _________________________________________________________ ADDRESS:_______________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ PHONE NUMBER:___________________ ID CARD NUMBER:__________________ EMAIL ADDRESS:_________________________________________________________ Send your answers to Under the Tuscan sun competition, MediaToday, Vjal ir-Rihan, San Gwann or email gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt

PRIZES EXCLUDE FLIGHTS AND TRANSFERS


Gourmet Today Issue 21