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by MALALAN

I NT E RV JU I NT E RV I E W

PUTOPI S T R AVELO GUE

U R A R OV D N EVN IK W AT CH MAKER’S DIARY

Jure & Peter Malalan

U srcu zemlje smaragda

Ručni satovi i voda

Into the Heart of the Emerald Land

Wristwatches and Water


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CHANEL .COM THE CHANEL MOMENT - THE J12 WATCH


Peter Malalan direktor/CEO

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Vjerovali ili ne, kada sam bio jako mlad mislio sam da ću svoje talente razvijati na području elektrotehnike. Iako sam u obiteljskoj tvrtki bio okružen umjetnošću nakita i urarstva, toliko su me oduševljavale tehnologije budućnosti da sam im bio spreman posvetiti svoj život. Tijekom vremena koje sam provodio za pultom naše trgovine u Opicini, polako me obuzela ljubav koju su moji roditelji gajili prema starim ručnim zanatima. Kasnije sam se odlučio obučiti za majstora zlatarstva u Pijemontu, no ljubav prema modernim tehnologijama i dalje živi u meni. Desetljeće ili dva nakon toga, moje je troje djece pronašlo svoje mjesto unutar Draguljarne Malalan u Ljubljani: svatko od njih sa svojom vlastitom osobnošću, željama i ambicijama. Kreativna Tjaša od malih je nogu naginjala k likovnoj umjetnosti, Jure je slobodno vrijeme provodio slažući i bojeći figurice, dok je najmlađa Ivana bila pravi knjiški crv, s tim da je posebno voljela knjige o pripravljanju raznih slastica. Svi bi se tijekom ljetnih praznika na tjedan ili dva našli u obiteljskoj tvrtki i pomagali u različitim poslovima: od prodaje, ispomoći urarima ili zlatarima pa do manje zahtjevnih administrativnih zadataka. Tijekom tog vremena snažno smo se povezali kao obitelj, a svatko od njih dobio je priliku za razvijanje vlastitih interesa. Tjaša i Jure danas su važan dio naše rastuće ekipe, dok Ivana stječe vještine u izradi slastica u jednoj od najpriznatijih francuskih škola. Prisutnost mladih u tvrtki i rad s njima ne samo da me ispunjava zadovoljstvom kada pogledam naš uspješan kolektiv već ona za mene predstavlja i ostvarenje dječačkog sna: primjenom najnovijih pristupa u izradi nakita i njegova održavanja vraćam se k svojoj ljubavi prema tehnologiji, dok istovremeno spoznajem da se stari zanati zlatarstva i draguljarstva nevjerojatno dobro povezuju s brojnim tehnološkim inovacijama. Stoga je veći dio ove publikacije posvećen draguljarskom ateljeu i urarskoj radionici u koje je, pored raznih vrsta vještina, utkana bogata povijest naše obitelji.

Believe it or not, when I was very young I thought I’d be developing my talents in the field of electrical engineering. Although, in my home company, I was surrounded by the art of jewellery and watchmaking, I was so thrilled by the technologies of the future that I was prepared to devote my life to them. In the time I spent behind the counter of our store in Opicina, I was quietly overtaken by the love my parents had for the ancient handicrafts. Later, I decided to train for a goldsmith master in Piemonte, but the love of modern technologies remains with me until today. A decade or two later, my three children found their way into the premises of Draguljarna Malalan in Ljubljana: each of them with their own personality, desires, and ambitions. Creative Tjaša has since the early age been inclined towards the fine arts, Jure spent his free time assembling and colouring figurines, while the youngest, Ivana, was a true book-worm: especially fond of those discussing the preparation of various desserts. All of them ended up in the home company during the summer break for at least a week or two and helped in various departments: from sales, helping watchmakers or jewellers, to less demanding administrative tasks. During this time, we bonded profoundly as a family and each of them got the chance to start developing their own interests. Tjaša and Jure are today an important part of our ever-growing team, while Ivana is mastering her skills in one of the renowned French schools for confectionary. The presence of young people in the company and working with them does not only bring me pleasure when I look at our successful team, for me it is also the realisation of childhood dreams: with the implementation of the latest approaches in jewellery-making and maintenance I return to my love of technology, but simultaneously I discover that the ancient crafts of goldsmithing and jewellery-making connect incredibly with many technological innovations. Therefore, the major part of this publication is devoted to the jewellery-making atelier and the watch-making workshop in which, in addition to many types of skills, the rich history of our family is intertwined.


BLACK BAY BRONZE

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Sadržaj Contents

izdavač publisher Malalan d.o.o. Mestni trg 21 1000 Ljubljana Slovenija Tel.: +386 1 421 77 40 koncept i koordinacija concept and coordination Nejc Puš Tjaša Malalan obrada design Matej Ramšak tekstovi text Nejc Puš Tjaša Malalan Karmen Malalan Peter Malalan Maja Mežan Desa Muck lektura i prijevod proof-reading and translation Peresce.si naslovna fotografija cover photo Nejc Puš

Svi predstavljeni brendovi i proizvodi dostupni su u Ljubljani, dok neki od njih možda neće biti dostupni u Zagrebu. Presented brands and products are available in Ljubljana and not necessarily in Zagreb.

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MALALAN

Prošlost, sadašnjost i budućnost The Past, Present, and Future P U T O P I S T R AV E LO GU E

U srcu zemlje smaragda Into the Heart of the Emerald Land N A K I T J E W E L L E RY

Bulgari I N T E R VJ U I N T E RV I E W

Jure & Peter Malalan U R A R O V D N E V N I K WAT C H M A K E R’ S D I A RY

Ručni satovi i voda Wristwatches and Water D R A G U L J A R O V D N E V N I K J E W E L L E R’ S D I A RY

Briga o nakitu u našim radionicama Care for Jewellery in Our Workshops R U Č N I S AT O V I I N A K I T WAT C H E S A N D J E W E L L E RY

Novosti Novelties F O T O - P R I Č A PH O T O - S T O RY

Trenuci koji vrijede Moments that Count KO L U M N A C O LU M N

Desa Muck: Bakin nakit Desa Muck: Grandma’s Jewellery S T I L Ž I V O TA L I F E S T Y L E

Vješti tesar i La Dolce Vita A Skilful Carpenter and La Dolce Vita MALALAN

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Spomini, Gaea i Romantika: prošlost, sadašnjost i budućnost Spomini, Gaea, and Romantika: the Past, Present, and Future

Nakit s potpisom Malalan ima svoj šarm koji mnogi povezuju s bogatom obiteljskom tradicijom. Generacije, koje su desetljećima ugrađivale snove u komade nakita, usavršile su se u bezvremenskom isprepletanju starih vještina, suptilnosti trenutka sadašnjosti i domišljatosti zakritom velom šarene budućnosti. Pod budnim dizajnerskim okom Petra i Tjaše Malalan, majstori zlatari kuju vaše snove u vječnost sa skulpturama kojima započinje tradicija obiteljskog nakita ili obogaćivanjem kutije nakita koja godinama prelazi s naraštaja na naraštaj.

Jewellery signed by Malalan has its charm that is by many people connected to the rich family tradition. Generations that have been embodying dreams in the form of jewellery pieces for many decades mastered themselves in the timeless interlacement of ancient mastery, subtlety of the present moment, and the wit with the veil of the dappled future. Master goldsmiths have been forging your dreams into eternity under the watchful designing eyes of Peter and Tjaša Malalan with sculptures that start the tradition of family jewellery or enrich the jewellery box which has been passed on through generations.

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Gaea, ogledalo sviju nas Gaea, the Mirror to Us All

Kamo god da pođemo okruženi smo brojnim oblicima majke prirode, koji su toliko savršeni upravo zbog svojih nepravilnosti i divljenja vrijedni u različitim dimenzijama, od velikog kanjona do male školjke na dnu rijeke ili mora. Ta nezaustavljiva snaga svugdje je oko nas i ponekad može biti uistinu strašna, dok istovremeno može biti jako osjećajna pa čak i utješna. Osjećaj oblutka u ruci i shvaćanje da priroda odražava sve ono što radimo, potakli su Tjašu Malalan da dizajnira osnovni element kolekcije Gaea. Na prvi se pogled taj element doima vrlo jednostavno pa, ipak, skriva toliko različitih priča, kao što ih skriva i oblutak koji je rijeka oblikovala prenoseći ga po svom koritu tijekom mnogo dugih godina. Na neki način kolekcija Gaea simbolizira čovjeka kojeg su životno iskustvo i ljudi koje susreće oblikovali u jedinstvenu i neponovljivu osobnost. Podsjeća nas svaki dan da se sve mijenja i da je i za najmanju promjenu često potrebno vrijeme te, iznad svega, blizina drugih oblutaka. Jezgra svakog obujma u kolekciji Gaea jest ogledalo od bijeloga zlata okruženo različitim uzorcima perforiranima na ljusci od crvenoga zlata. Ta je ljuska, baš kao što je slučaj i s ljudima, uvijek pomalo različita, a njezin se vanjski uzorak odražava na unutrašnjem ogledalu. Na određen način to simbolizira ljudsku bit i način na koji na nju utječu život i blizina drugih ljudi. Gotovo da je poput ogledala duše, koje u prostor odražava okruženje, dio sebe i svoje jedinstvene priče, baš kao što često nesvjesno rade i njihovi ponosni vlasnici.

Everywhere we go, we are surrounded by numerous shapes of Mother Nature which are so perfect precisely due to their irregularities and are worth admiring in various dimensions, spanning from a huge gorge to a tiny shell at the bottom of a river or sea. This unstoppable force is all around us and can be at times truly terrifying, while being at the same time so sensitive and even comforting. It was the feeling of a pebble in her hand and the realisation that nature reflects everything we do that encouraged Tjaša Malalan to design the basic element of the Gaea Collection. At first glance, this element seems very simple, yet it hides so many different stories as does for example a pebble that has been shaped by the river carrying it along its bed for so many years. In a way, through its basic form the Gaea Collection thus symbolizes a man shaped by life, experience, and people he or she meets into a unique and one of a kind personality. It reminds us every single day that everything changes and that even the smallest of change frequently needs time and, above all, the vicinity of other pebbles. The nucleus of every volume in the Gaea Collection is the mirror made of white gold which is surrounded by a shell of rose gold perforated by different patterns. This shell is, just as it is in people, always a bit different and its pattern is reflected on the outside in the mirror on the inside. In a way, this symbolizes the human essence and the way it is influenced by life and the vicinity of other people. It is almost like a mirror of the soul that reflects the surroundings and a part of itself and its unique story into space just as is often unknowingly done by their proud owners. moments 13


Život je slagalica sjećanja Life is a puzzle of Memories

Naše poimanje života oblikovano je sjećanjima koje svatko od nas gaji na sebi svojstven način. Sjećanja se isprepleću s pričama nama bliskih ljudi ili pak potpunih stranaca, dijele se i jačaju u razgovoru s obitelji i prijateljima, dok se ona bolna pohranjuju u obliku upozorenja da život nije bajka. Ideja o kolekciji Spomini proizlazi iz razgovora o prekrasnim trenucima iz djetinjstva. To su oni koje su Tjaša i Peter Malalan htjeli okovječiti s dragocjenim simbolima kao dijelovima života koje svaka osoba može sastavljati u posve jedinstvenu cjelinu i kombinirati u skladu s pričom koju njihov vlasnik taj dan želi nositi na sebi. Dame mogu birati među prstenjem od crvenog, žutog i bijelog zlata, koje može biti posuto i dijamantima, a posebna posveta može biti skrivena uz pomoć gravure. Kolekcija Spomini nije namijenjena isključivo ženama. Gospoda mogu nanizati svoju priču posebnih trenutaka na narukvici koja na jedinstven način upotpunjuje njihov pomno birani ručni sat.

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Our perception of life is shaped by memories assembled by each of us in our own unique way. Memories are intertwined with stories of our loved ones or complete strangers, they are shared and strengthened in conversations with family and friends, while the painful ones are eternalised into a warning that life is not a fairy-tale. The idea for the Spomini Collection originates from the conversation about beautiful childhood moments. These were the ones Tjaša and Peter Malalan wanted to eternalise with precious symbols of parts of life that can by each person be assembled into a completely unique entity and combined according to the story the owner wants to wear that particular day. Ladies can choose from among rings made of rose, yellow, and white gold and which can be frosted with diamonds, while a very special inscription can also be hidden within the ring with the help of engraving. The Spomini Collection is not meant exclusively for ladies; gentlemen can string their story of special moments on a bracelet which uniquely supplements their carefully chosen wristwatch.


Vječna Romantika Eternal Romance

Romantika je u suštini vrlo jednostavna: ona je trenutak uživanja sadašnjeg trenutka uz prekrasnu ideju o budućnosti. Besmrtna je i mogla bi se nazvati pravim klasikom jer romantični momenti mogu postati vječni uz jedno jednostavno pitanje koje je često popraćeno dijamantom. To su bile ideje vodilje u dizajniranju linije ove kolekcije koja je, prikladno u tu svrhu, nazvana Romantika. Ideja o bezvremenosti uhvaćena je u simbolu cvijeta, čije latice obgrljuju dijamant te predstavljaju trostruko obavijeni simbol beskonačnosti, dok se u njima isprepleću obiteljske vrijednosti, tradicija i ljepota koja leži u prenošenju nakita s jedne na drugu generaciju. Dizajnerski cilj Tjaše Malalan jest taj da svaki pojedini komad iz kolekcije Romantika, unatoč elegantnoj osnovi, čistim linijama i diskretnim izgledom, nadopuni svakodnevni izgled moderne žene bez obzira na njezinu dob.

Romance is essentially very simple: it is the enjoyment of the present moment with the marvellous idea of the future. It is immortal and could be called a true classic, for romantic moments can become eternal with a simple question often accompanied by a diamond. These are the ideas that are followed by the designing lines of the collection which is, suitably for the purpose, called Romantika. The idea of timelessness was captured in the symbol of a flower, the petals of which embrace a diamond and represent the triply-wound symbol of infinity, while within them family values, tradition, and beauty of passing the jewellery from one generation to another interlace. The designing goal of Tjaša Malalan is for each and every piece from the Romantika Collection, despite its elegant basis, purified lines, and discrete appearance, to supplement the every-day appearance of the modern woman regardless of her age.

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K A R M EN & P ETER M A LA L AN

U srcu zemlje smaragda Into the Heart of the Emerald Land

Unatoč tome što je zadnjih godina Kolumbija postala jedna od destinacija koju turisti sve više posjećuju, mi tamo nisu otišli kao ljubitelji serijala Narcos niti da bismo obišli ostatke vladavine Escobara. Uputili smo se u Južnu Ameriku kako bismo posjetili rudnike smaragda u kojima se nalazi najljepše drago kamenje na svijetu, a Kolumbija je zemlja iz koje dolazi 55 % ukupnog svjetskog iskopa tih željenih dragulja.

Even though Columbia has become an increasingly visited tourist destination in recent years, we weren’t there as fans of the popular Narcos series or to tour the remains of Escobar’s rule. We headed for South America to visit the emerald mines, where the most beautiful gems on the planet are found, and Columbia is the location where 55% of all world’s excavation of these desired gems comes from.

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Polazišna točka našeg putovanja bila je prijestolnica Kolumbije, Bogotá, iz koje smo se spustili gotovo 2000 metara u grad Muzo. Taj se grad nalazi na nadmorskoj visini od 700 metara uz istoimeni i ujedno najpoznatiji rudnik smaragda na svijetu. Nad prijestolnicom smaragda uzdižu se vrhovi stijena Fure i Tene, nazvanih tako prema mitološkom vladaru i njegovoj ženi koji su, zbog nesretne ljubavi, pretvoreni u kamen. Legenda kaže da je u poganska vremena područjem oko današnjeg Muzoa zajedno sa suprugom vladala prekrasna Fura koju je, radi njezinih posjeda i bogatstva, zaveo iznimno lijepi, ali neiskreni pridošlica Chisgo. Fura je svojim preljubom naljutila jednog od bogova koji ju je pretvorio u kamen. Tena, koji je i dalje bio ludo zaljubljen u Furu, želio je zauvijek ostati uz nju, pa je bog uslišao njegovu želju te i njega pretvorio u kamen. Nesretnu Furu taj je čin toliko ožalostio da je, unatoč tome što je bila okamenjena, počela lijevati suze koje su njezino tijelo polako pretvorile u smaragd. Potpuno je stoga razumljivo da su dva najzanimljivija draga kamena pronađena na tom području nazvana upravo po njima. Fura je drugi najveći smaragd pronađen do danas te teži 11 000 karata ili 2,2 kilograma, dok Tena ima „svega” 2000 karata, ali je zbog svoje neusporedive boje i čistoće danas najcjenjeniji smaragd na svijetu. Boyaca, područje oko grada Muzoa, generalno je poznata po smaragdima iznimne čistoće i intenziteta boje, što je posljedica

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The starting-point of our trip was the Columbian capital Bogotá, from where we descended almost 2,000 metres to the town of Muzo. It is located at 700 metres above sea level, along the most famous emerald mine in the world bearing the same name. The peaks of Fura and Tena watch over the capital of emeralds, which were named after a mythological ruler and his wife who were supposedly turned into stone due to their tragic love. A legend says that in pagan times, beautiful Fura ruled the area around present-day Mozo together with her husband. She was seduced by an extremely handsome but devious newcomer Chisgo who only wanted her estates and wealth. Since she cheated on her husband she made one of the gods angry and he turned her into stone. Tena, still madly in love with Fura, wanted to stay with her for eternity and the god granted his wish: he was turned into stone as well. Miserable Fura was so devastated by this that despite being petrified she started shedding tears which slowly turned her body into an emerald. It is thus totally appropriate that the two most interesting gems found in this area were named after them. Fura is the second biggest emerald found until today and weighs 11,000 carats or 2.2 kilograms, while Tena with »only« 2,000 carats but unparalleled colour and purity is the most precious emerald in the world until today.


brojnih tektonskih kretanja u prošlosti te jedinstvenog sastava tla čiji su ključni sastojci krom, vanadij i željezo. Tipična tamnozelena boja najpoželjnija je boja kod smaragda i može se reći da se nigdje drugdje na svijetu ne može pronaći toliko intenzivna zelena boja kao kod smaragda iz najdubljih rudnika u Kolumbiji. Ipak, zeleni kristali berila ne nalaze se samo u velikim dubinama rudnika već ih po brdovitom terenu nosi i Rio Minero, rijeka rudara. U tri desetljeća otkako je Peter zadnji put bio ovdje, gotovo da se ništa nije promijenilo. Brojni domaći stanovnici pretražuju po koritu rijeke manje kristale i zatim ih prodaju na tržnici. Klečeći u vodi, jedan od njih nam govori kako u zadnja tri mjeseca nije pronašao ništa. Slična je situacija i na napuštenom odlagalištu materijala iz rudnika kamo nezaposlene osobe svakodnevno besplatno prevoze općinski kamioni. „Bilo kako bilo, ovo je ipak prilika za

Boyaca, the area around the town of Muzo, is generally known for emeralds with exceptional purity and colour intensity, which is the result of numerous tectonic shifts in the past and the unique soil composition, the crucial parts of which are chrome, vanadium, and iron. The typical dark green colour is most desired in emeralds, and it could be said that nowhere else in nature can such an intensely green be found than in the emeralds from the deepest mines in Columbia. Nevertheless, the green crystals of beryl are not found only in the great depths of mines but are also carried along the hilly land by the Rio Minero, the miners’ river. In the three decades since Peter was last here, almost nothing has changed. Many locals search the riverbed for smaller crystals and then sell them at the market. Knee-high in water, one of them told us that he hasn’t found anything in the last three months. The situation is similar at the abandoned dumping site for the minerals from the mine where the unemployed are taken every day on free trucks provided by the authorities. »In any case, this is a better opportunity for some earning than being completely out of work,« was the idea of one of three friends who have been searching for emeralds there for a few decades. We also visited a mine that was opened not long ago, where the excavations began a year ago. Despite the fact that prior to its opening a lot of time was devoted to geological research, they have not yet made it to the calcite vein in which emeralds would be found. The owners were optimistic and believed the deposit would be found a few months after our visit. During our trip we continually conveyed our enthusiasm about the emeralds back to our jewellery atelier where upon our return we were awaited by a few sketches of timeless jewels in which the most beautiful shades of emerald green prevail: this colour was used by ancient Greeks and Romans to treat eye diseases, in Egypt it was connected with eternal youth, while in the Middle Ages it was used to test the sincerity of the vow made between newlyweds. Today, emeralds are associated with the freshness of spring and are given as gifts on various occasions. We are convinced that one of our new creations will find its way into your jewellery box, too.

kakvu-takvu zaradu, bolja je nego biti bez ikakva posla”, ideja je jednog od trojice prijatelja koji već nekoliko desetljeća traže smaragde. Posjetili smo i nedavno otvoreni rudnik u kojem su iskopi počeli prije godinu dana. Unatoč tome što su prije njegova otvaranja puno vremena posvetili geološkom ispitivanju, još uvijek nisu stigli do kalcitne žile u kojoj bi trebali pronaći smaragde. Vlasnici su bili optimistični i izrazili vjerovanje da će nekoliko mjeseci nakon našeg obilaska doći do nalazišta. Tijekom putovanja stalno nas je vodio entuzijazam prema smaragdima u našem ateljeu nakita u kojem nas je po povratku čekalo nekoliko nacrta bezvremenskih dragulja u kojima prevladavaju najljepše nijanse smaragdno zelene boje. Tu su boju stari Grci i Rimljani upotrebljavali za liječenje očnih bolesti, u Egiptu su je povezivali s vječnom mladošću, dok su se u srednjem vijeku s njom koristili za ispitivanje iskrenosti zavjeta između mladenaca. Danas se smaragdi povezuju sa svježinom proljeća i daruju u različitim prigodama. Uvjereni smo da će jedna od naših kreacija pronaći svoj put i do vaše kutijice nakita.

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Zenith watches are only availalble at Malalan Ljubljana, Slovenia 20 moments


ZENITH, THE FUTURE OF SWISS WATCHMAKING DEFY I El Primero 21 1/100th of a second chronograph

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BU LGA R I

Bulgari

Od udaljenog seoskog mjesta do vrha svijeta From a Remote Village to the Top of the World Serpente, talijanska riječ za zmiju, savršeno sažima bît jedne od najnevjerojatnijih kolekcija nakita u zadnjem stoljeću: Bvlgari Serpenti. Prestižni komadi nakita koji, ukrašeni raznobojnim dragim kamenjem, nježno obavijaju dijelove ženskog tijela postali su ikona za ljubitelje estetike dragog kamenja. Međutim, nevjerojatne se stvari nikada ne dogode same od sebe. Tijekom svojih početaka začetnik obiteljskog obrta Bulgari usredotočio se više na to da ne bude stalno iznova meta pljačkaša, nego na povijesno značenje zmija.

Serpente, the Italian word for a snake, perfectly summarizes the essence of one of the most exceptional jewelry collections in the last century: Bvlgari Serpenti. The prestigious pieces of jewelry that, decorated with multicolored precious stones, softly wrap around the parts of the female body, have become the icon for the lovers of gem aesthetics. However, exceptional things never happen on their own— the beginner of the Bulgari family craft has focused more on not being robbed again and again during the beginning stages than on the historical significance of snakes.

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Skromni počeci u Grčkoj

The modest beginnings in Greece

Dječak imena Sotirios Boulgaris rodio se 1857. u grčkom selu Paramythia. U to je vrijeme dio Grčke bio pod Osmanlijama, koji su odlučili spaliti rodno selo obitelji Boulgaris. Obiteljska trgovina sa proizvodima od srebra uništena je pa je Georgi, otac obitelji, zajedno s malim Sotiriosom napustio selo. Nekoliko su godina vodili gotovo nomadski život i nigdje se nisu zadržavali više od mjesec dana. Kada mu je bilo devetnaest godina, Sotiriosa su tijekom transporta srebrnine opljačkali, pa je s ocem počeo razmišljati o preseljenju. Godinu dana poslije toga dvojac je bio prisiljen preseliti se na Krf, gdje su otvorili malu radionicu.

In the Greek village of Paramythia, a boy named Sotirios Boulgaris was born in 1857. At that time, a part of Greece was ruled by the Ottomans, who decided that the native village of the Boulgaris family was to be burned. The family’s shop with silver products was destroyed, so father Georgi, together with little Sotirios, left the village. For a few years, they led an almost nomadic life — they did not stop anywhere for more than a month. When he was nineteen years old, Sotirios was robbed during a silverware transport, and he and his father started to think about moving. A year later the duo was forced to travel to Corfu, where they opened a small workshop.

Put do Italije

The road to Italy

Nekoliko godina kasnije, Sotirios je s obiteljskim prijateljem otvorio trgovinu u Napulju, najvećem gradu južne Italije. Živjeli su od prodaje ručno izrađenih srebrnih predmeta sve dok im, za vrijeme njihova odsustva u pauzi za ručak, provalnici nisu obili trgovinu i odnijeli gotovo sve što su u njoj pronašli. Nakon jedva godinu dana od dolaska, bili su prisiljeni napustiti Napulj i zaputiti se u Rim. Unatoč nedostatku novca, marljivim su radom uspjeli kupiti nešto srebra te ponovno započeti s proizvodnjom i prodajom srebrnine. Uskoro su upoznali grčkog trgovca koji je prodavao spužve. On im je prepustio dio svoga izloga kako bi mogli izložiti srebrninu. Prodaja je krenula i nedugo nakon toga otvorili su vlastitu

A few years later, Sotirios opened a store with a family friend in the largest city of Southern Italy — Naples. They made a living by selling silver handicraft works, until, in their absence during a lunch break, their store was broken into, and the robbers took away almost everything they had. Barely a year after their arrival they were forced to leave Naples and left for Rome. Despite the money shortage, they worked hard and managed to buy some silver, and again began producing and selling silverware. They soon met a Greek merchant who sold sponges, and he ceded them a part of his display window so they could display their silverware. The sales took off and shortly after, they opened their very own store, where

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trgovinu u kojoj su uspješno prodavali svoju robu, ponajviše stranim kupcima. Poslovni uspjeh uzeo je, međutim, danak njihovom prijateljstvu, pa se mladi i ambiciozni Sotirios odlučio samostalno okušati kao srebrnar.

they sold their merchandise successfully, primarily to foreign customers. The business success took a toll on their relationship, and the young and ambitious Sotirios decided to embark on an independent path as a silversmith.

Najuglednija kuća nakita

The most reputable jewelry house

Nedugo nakon toga, Sotirios Boulgaris odlučio se prilagoditi novom okruženju i pojednostavnio svoje prezime u Bulgari. Pročelje njegove trgovine u Rimu bilo je ukrašeno natpisom S. Bulgari. Manji broj kupaca u ljetnim mjesecima potaknuo ga je da privremeno premjesti svoje zalihe srebrnine u renomirano švicarsko ljetovalište St. Moritz u kojem je njegov posao doslovce procvjetao. U narednim se godinama Sotirios dokazao kao vrstan biznismen. Otvorio je nekoliko trgovina u Italiji i Švicarskoj u kojima je uglavnom zapošljavao svoju rodbinu iz Grčke. U Rimu je trgovinu premjestio na ugledniju lokaciju i, u želji da privuče najvećim dijelom bogate posjetitelje iz Velike Britanije i Amerike, nazvao je „The old curiosity shop” („Trgovina starih kurioziteta”). Nakon njegove smrti, njegovi su sinovi nastavili uspješno voditi posao. Već 1940., u dokumentu fašističkog registra tvrtki, Bulgari je označen kao vodeća trgovina nakita u Italiji čiji dizajn plemenitih metala imitira većina talijanskih majstora izrade nakita, a navodi se i da kuća Bulgari ima isti utjecaj kao Cartier u inozemstvu. Stariji sin Constantino, s radnim opusom koji još uvijek nitko nije premašio, priskrbio je sebi poziciju među vodećim svjetskim

Sotirios Boulgaris soon decided to adjust to the new environment and simplified his last name to Bulgari. The façade of his shop in Rome was adorned by the inscription S.Bulgari. A smaller number of customers during the summer months gave him the incentive to temporarily transfer his stock of silverware to the renowned Swiss summer resort of St. Moritz, where his business really blossomed. In the following years, Sotirios proved to be an outstanding businessman. He opened several stores in Italy and Switzerland, where he mostly employed his relatives from Greece. In Rome, he moved his store to a more prestigious location and named it “The old curiosity shop”, wanting to attract mainly the wealthy visitors from Britain and America. After his death, his sons successfully continued to conduct business. As early as 1940, in a document of the fascist business register, Bulgari was labeled as the leading jewelry store in Italy, whose design of precious metals was mimicked by the majority of Italian jewelry masters, stating also that the Bulgari house had the same influence as Cartier had abroad. The older son Constantino, with a catalogue that has yet to be surpassed, secured himself a place among

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poznavateljima zanata, dok je mlađi Giorgio, kojeg su zahvaljujući njegovu nevjerojatnom umijeću smatrali kraljem zlatara, ime Bulgari učinio globalno poznatim simbolom za prestiž. Tijekom bogate povijesti kuće njezin su nakit odabirali poznati glumci, umjetnici, glazbene zvijezde, režiseri, pa čak i osobe iz svijeta politike. Andy Warhol, osnivač pokreta pop art, trgovinu Bulgarija u Rimu nazvao je „najboljom izložbom suvremene umjetnosti”. Ipak, osoba koja je bila od presudne važnosti za odraz tvrtke Bulgari u sami svjetski vrh bila je Elizabeth Taylor sa svojom ulogom u filmu Kleopatra. S obzirom na to da je bila velika zaljubljenica u dragulje, nije joj dugo trebalo da se za vrijeme snimanja u Rimu nađe u Bulgarijevoj trgovini nakita iz koje je izašla s posebnom narukvicom koja joj je, prošarana dijamantima, obavijala zapešće poput zmije. Uskoro se našla pred objektivom jednog od fotografa i zanimanje za Bulgari poraslo je kao nikada dotad. Od tog je događaja čest posjetitelj trgovine bio i njezin suprug Richard Burton koji je jednom prilikom šaljivo rekao da je glumica od talijanskog uspjela naučiti samo jednu riječ: Bulgari.

the world’s greatest connoisseurs of the craft, while the younger Giorgio, due to his exceptional craftsmanship, was considered to be the king of jewelers and made the name Bulgari global — as a synonym for prestige. Through its rich history, many important actors, artists, music stars, directors and even the political community took a liking to the Italian jewelry house. The founder of the Pop Art movement, Andy Warhol, named the Bulgari store in Rome as “the best exhibition of contemporary art”. However, the person who was truly important in the Bulgari company’s leap onto the world’s top was Elizabeth Taylor with her role in the film Cleopatra. During her filming in Rome, due to her love of gemstones, she soon found herself in their jewelry store and left it with a really special bracelet, which wrapped around the wrist like a snake, sprinkled with diamonds. She soon found herself in front of the camera of one of the photographers, and the interest in Bulgari grew as never before. After that, her husband Richard Burton also often visited the store, and he jokingly stated that she managed to learn one single word in Italian: Bulgari.

Bulgari Serpenti i čar mitologije

Bulgari Serpenti and the magic of mythology

Zmija je kao važan simbol prisutna još od davnih vremena: ona utjelovljuje vodu i zemlju, znanje i plodnost, besmrtnost i ponovno rađanje. U različitim kontekstima zmija se kao motiv pojavljuje i u modernoj umjetnosti. U grčkoj mitologiji zmija povezuje Grčku i Rim, kao motiv može je se naći i na zapešću božice Afrodite, nosila

The snake has been present as an important symbol since the ancient times: it embodies water and earth, knowledge and fertility, immortality and rebirth. In different contexts, the snake motif also appears in modern art. In Greek mythology, the snake connects Greece and Rome, the motif can be found on the wrists of the goddess

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ju je Cezarova ljubavnica Kleopatra, a kao glavni motiv zmija se pojavljuje i na zaručničkom prstenu kraljice Viktorije. Zmijska figura, simbol vječne mladosti, okosnica je Bulgarijeve estetike. Već 1932. Bulgari je predstavio kolekciju imena Tubogas. Bile su to savitljive narukvice s mekim, oblim rubovima koje su se obavijale oko zapešća poput opruge i spajale bez varenja. Nakon nešto više od desetljeća, kolekciji su dodani ručni satovi te je dobila novo, dojmljivije ime – Bulgari Serpenti. Zadržali su ideju spajanja nakita bez njegova varenja uz dodatak karakterističnog izgleda ljuski i stavljanje motiva zmije u središte pozornosti. Ljuske se postupno povećavaju od repa prema glavi zmije, a prekrivene su raznobojnim dragim kamenjem ili prekrasno oslikane emajlom. U 21. stoljeću simbolom zmije Bulgari se vraća čaru mitoloških simbola. Iza senzualnih oblika dugog, valovitog, cilindričnog tijela izlaze na vidjelo duh vremena i težnja za savladavanjem prepreka koje vrijeme predstavlja, a koje Bulgari svojim dizajnerskim pristupom uvijek uspješno nadilazi. Zmija predstavlja sposobnost stalne prilagodbe i vještinu isticanja jedinstvenim stilom, čime u potpunosti utjelovljuje kult našeg vremena – potragu za samim sobom.

Aphrodite, it was worn by Caesar’s lover Cleopatra, and the snake even appeared as the main motif on Queen Victoria’s engagement ring. The figure of a snake, the symbol of eternal youth, forms the core of the Bulgari aesthetics. As early as 1932, they presented a collection called Tubogas —  flexible bracelets with soft, rounded edges, which were wound around the wrist like a spring and assembled without welding. After a little more than a decade, wristwatches were added to the collection and it got a new, imposing name — Bulgari Serpenti. They maintained the idea of assembling the jewelry without welding, adding the typical appearance of scales and putting the snake motif into the limelight. The scales gradually increase in size from the tail to the head of the snake, and they are covered with multicolored precious stones or wonderful enamel paintings. In the twenty-first century, they are returning to the magic of mythological symbols with the symbol of the snake. Behind the sensual forms of the long, undulated, cylindrical body, the spirit of the time and the tendency to overcome the barriers of time, which Bulgari always exceeds with their design approach, are revealed. The snake symbolizes the ability of continuous adaptation and the skill of standing out with a unique style, thus fully epitomizing the cult of our time: the search for oneself.

Za modernu ženu sa snažnim osjećajem za estetiku Vrlo zahtjevne te nadasve dugotrajne tehnike oblikovanja plemenitih metala, zajedno s pomnim istraživanjem materijala, dovele su majstore do nevjerojatnih kombinacija različitih kovina. Tako je prepletanje čelika i zlata jedan od prepoznatljivih motiva kolekcije Serpenti. Pokretni dijelovi nakita pridonose ugodnom nošenju i osiguravaju besprijekoran oblik na različitim dijelovima tijela, dok modularna kompozicija omogućuje zapravo neograničen broj dijelova od kojih se mogu sastojati prsten, narukvica ili ogrlica. Na taj način dame mogu nositi motiv zmije na bezbrojno mnogo načina i u bezbrojnim kombinacijama nijansi zlata, dragog kamenja i emajlom obrađenih površina. Nakit Bulgari pristaje strastvenim ženama koje se žele istaknuti profinjenošću. Strast za raznobojnim dragim i poludragim kamenjem, poimanje nepravilnosti kao načina isticanja opće ljepote te senzualnost linija definiraju modernu ženu snažnog osjećaja za estetiku.

For the modern woman with a strong sense of aesthetics The very demanding, and above all, time consuming design techniques of precious metals, along with a detailed research of materials, brought the masters to exceptional combinations of different metals — the intertwinement of steel and gold is one of the recognizable motifs of the Serpenti collection. The movable parts of the jewelry contribute to comfortable wearing and ensure the perfect form on different parts of the body, while the modular composition allows for a virtually unlimited number of parts, which compose either a ring, a bracelet or a necklace. This way, ladies can wear the snake motif in countless ways and in countless combinations of the shades of gold, precious stones and enamel treated surfaces. The Bulgari jewelry suits passionate women who want to stand out in a sophisticated manner. The passion for multicolored precious and semi-precious stones, the perception of irregularities as accents to the overall beauty, and the sensuality of lines define the modern woman with a strong sense of aesthetics.

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I NTE RV JU I NT ERV IEW

Jure & Peter Malalan

N A P IS A LA W O R DS

F OTO GR A F IJ E PH OTO GR AP HS

MA J A M EŽA N

N EJ C P U Š

Svaka ideja u svoje vrijeme Every Idea Takes Its Time Vrijeme je razlog zbog kojeg tri generacije obitelji Malalan dijele slogan „Vaše snove kujemo u vječnost”. Ljubav prema ručnim satovima, koju je njihov djed gajio dok je još živio u Trstu, prenijela se preko oca Petera na mladoga Juru, koji danas vodi obiteljsku trgovinu u Zagrebu, a certificiran je i za popravljanje prestižnih Rolexovih satova. Razgovor s njima dvojicom otvara nam vrata u jedinstvenu obiteljsku priču o stalnom unapređenju i iskrenoj potrazi za savršenstvom.

Timing is why three generations of the Malalan family share the slogan “We Forge Your Dreams into Eternity”. The love of wristwatches, which was nurtured by their grandfather who lived near Trieste, transferred through father Peter to young Jure, who is today the head of the family’s store in Zagreb and is also certified for repairs of prestigious timepieces signed by Rolex. Talking to them both opens the door to the unique family story of constant improvement and a sincere search for perfection.

Jure, kao dijete ste sastavljali figurice. Biste li rekli da je to utjecalo na vaše zanimanje za urarstvo? jj — Kod sastavljanja figurica morate posvetiti pažnju svakoj pojedinoj sitnici, od sjenčanja do boja. Taj mi je proces zasigurno dao osjećaj za detalje koji mi je i danas koristan.

Jure, as a child you used to assemble figurines. Would you say that influenced your interest in horology? jj — When assembling figurines, you have to devote your attention to each and every little detail, from shading to the choice of colours. This process definitely gave me a feeling for detail which I still find useful today.

Vjerojatno se još uvijek sjećate ljubavi svoga djeda prema popravljanju mehanizama? jj — I predobro! To mi je jedno od najdražih sjećanja iz djetinjstva i upravo me on nadahnuo da postanem urar. Peter, priča se da je vaš otac popravljao satove po cijele dane. Kako je bilo živjeti s njim? pp — Da, moj je otac stalno popravljao satove i radio je to na vrlo poseban način. Budući da bi tijekom dana stalno primao klijente, u trgovini bi satove uspijevao samo otvoriti i očistiti. Navečer bi doma sjeo za svoj stol, slušao radio i ponovno ih sastavljao. Vaši počeci nakon preseljenja iz Opicine u Ljubljanu bili su dosta zanimljivi, zar ne? pp — Za trgovinu u Ljubljani prvih se godina moglo reći da je bila izlog naše trgovine u

You probably still remember your grandfather’s love for movement repairs? jj — All too well! This is one of my favourite childhood memories and it was him who inspired me to become a watchmaker. Peter, I hear that your father repaired wristwatches all day long every day. What was living with him like? pp — Yes, my father constantly repaired watches and he did this in a very special way. In the shop, when he was constantly receiving customers during the day, he only managed to take the watches apart and clean them. In the evening, he would sit by his desk, listen to the radio, and put them back together. Your beginnings, when you moved from Opicina to Ljubljana were rather moments 29


Opicini. Naime, u Ljubljani smo samo izlagali kolekcije koje smo prodavali, a onda bismo naše klijente upućivali u Opicinu gdje su ih mogli i kupiti. U to sam vrijeme shvatio da će našim klijentima u Ljubljani trebati sve više naših usluga pa sam zaposlio Juru Jenka, tada devetnaestogodišnjaka, a danas certificiranog urara za Rolexove satove, koji je još uvijek dio našega tima. Danas je vaša trgovina ovlašteni servis za mnoge prestižne urarske kuće. Kako vam je to uspjelo? pp — Kada od urara kupujete sat, očekujete da vam ponudi cjelokupnu paletu usluga. To zahtijevaju i poznati brandovi, pa je bilo sasvim prirodno da krenemo u tom smjeru. Naš asortiman prestižnih urarskih kuća gradili smo postupno i s ponosom mogu reći da smo ove godine u postupku dobivanja certifikata kuće Omega, a također smo i u dogovorima s Cartierom, gigantom u svijetu satova i nakita. Jure, vi ste drugi certificirani urar za Rolexove satove u tvrtki Malalan. Kako je izgledao postupak stjecanja certifikata? jj — Trotjedni postupak certifikacije u Švicarskoj bio je nevjerojatno iskustvo. Naime, Rolex se u to kratko vrijeme ne fokusira samo na popravke satova, već predstavlja cjelokupnu filozofiju svoje tvrtke i svih svojih procesa. Osobno mi se jako svidjela rigoroznost u pogledu sveobuhvatnosti servisa satova, uključujući sve od preciznosti rada pa do postupaka servisa. Oboje dijelite iskustvo rada s prestižnim satovima i nakitom u potpuno novom okruženju u novome gradu. Peteru se to dogodilo prije nekoliko desetljeća u Ljubljani, a Juri odnedavno u Zagrebu. U čemu pronalazite sličnosti? Koje su razlike? pp — U Ljubljani smo relativno brzo upoznali ljude i integrirali se u život grada, dok je Zagreb znatno veći, pa je potrebno malo više vremena da tamo zaživimo s obzirom na to da smo na tržištu prisutni tek godinu dana. jj — Sličnosti se prije svega vide u količini uloženog napora. U Zagrebu, kao i u Ljubljani, želimo uspostaviti iste poslovne standarde i stalno unaprjeđivati kvalitetu naših usluga, za što je potrebno puno vremena. Vjerojatno dosta surađujete u pogledu pozicioniranja svoje trgovine u glavnom 30 moments

interesting, weren’t they? pp — In its first years, the store in Ljubljana could have been described as the exhibition window for our store in Opicina. Namely, in Ljubljana we only showcased the collections we sold and then referred our customers to Opicina where they were able to purchase this jewellery. During that time, I discovered that our customers in Ljubljana would need more and more of our services and so I hired the then 19-year old, and now certified Rolex watchmaker Jure Jenko, who is still part of our team. Today, your store is the official service outlet for many prestigious watchmaking brands. How did you get here? pp — When buying a watch at the watchmaker’s a person expects to be offered the comprehensive range of services. This is also required by famous brands and it was completely natural to head in this direction. Our selection of prestigious watchmaking companies was thus built gradually and I can proudly say that this year we’re in the process of acquiring the Omega certificate, while we’re also making arrangements with the watchmaking and jewellery giant Cartier. Jure, you are the second certified Rolex watchmaker in the Malalan company. What was acquiring the certificate like? jj — The three-week certification in Switzerland was an incredible experience. In fact, during this short time Rolex doesn’t only focus on watch repairs but also introduces its entire company philosophy and all of their processes. I personally loved the rigorousness regarding the comprehensive watch service, which includes everything from the work precision to service procedures. You both share the experience of working with prestigious watches and jewellery in the totally new surroundings of a new city. Peter a few decades ago in Ljubljana and Jure recently in Zagreb. Where do you find similarities, what are the differences? pp — In Ljubljana, we have gotten to know the people relatively quickly and incorporated ourselves into the life of the city, while Zagreb is significantly bigger and needs a little more time since we’ve been present on their market for only a year now. jj — Here the similarities are primarily revealed in the amount of invested effort. Both in Zagreb and in Ljubljana we want to establish the same standards of business and constantly improve the quality of our


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gradu Hrvatske. Kako izgleda ta suradnja? pp — Jure je zadužen za cjelokupnu organizaciju te usmjerava razvoj tvrtke, a ja mu pokušavam biti uz bok. Mislim da je dobro da se ne uplićem previše, no mora biti jasno da mi se u bilo kojem trenutku može obratiti. jj — Apsolutno, bez njegova bi znanja sve bilo puno teže. Stalno komuniciramo, izmjenjujemo ideje i tražimo zajednička rješenja za sve moguće izazove. Jure, kakav je bio prvi mjesec vašeg samostalnog vođenja tvrtke? jj — Iskreno? Početak je bio uistinu zanimljiv, ne zato što nisam znao što radim već zato što su u trgovini bili radovi, pa sam tako bio više voditelj gradilišta, nego prodaje.

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services, which takes a lot of work. You two probably collaborate a lot in the positioning of your store in the Croatian capital. What is this cooperation like? pp — Jure is in charge of the entire organisation and he also directs the development of the company, and I try to be there for him. I think it’s the right thing for me to not interfere too much, but it must also be completely clear that he can come to me anytime. jj — Absolutely, it would be much harder doing everything without his knowledge. We’re constantly in communication, we exchange ideas, and search for joint solutions to any challenges that arise. Jure, what was the first month of your independent leadership of the company like? jj — Honestly? The start was really interesting,


Oboje svakodnevno radite s različitim profilima ljudi. Što mislite koja karakterna osobina definira dobrog menadžera ili prodavatelja? pp — Mislim da se glavna osobina dobrog menadžera očituje u razumijevanju, slušanju i poštovanju prema cijelome timu. Mora znati kako od svakog pojedinca izvući ono najbolje te imati strpljenja kako bi izgradio tim koje svoje zadatke obavlja s ljubavlju. jj — Mislim da se kod prodavatelja očituje u velikom znanju te razumijevanju kupaca i njihovih želja. Jedan je od vas odrastao s dva brata, drugi s dvije sestre. Kakvo je bilo vaše djetinjstvo? pp — Ja sam najmlađi od trojice braće i, zbog velike razlike u godinama, bio sam bliži sa srednjim bratom Milkom, s kojim sam dijelio i motocikl Harley Davidson 125. Kad je

not because I didn’t know what I was doing but mostly because our store was still under construction and I had to be the construction manager more than I was heading the store. You both have to work with different people on daily basis. Which do you think is the character trait that defines a good leader or salesperson? pp — I think that the main trait of a good leader is revealed through understanding, listening to, and respect towards the entire team. They have to know how to get the best from every individual and have a lot of patience to create a team which performs its tasks with love. jj — J: For salespeople I think it is the profound knowledge and understanding of customers and their wishes. moments 33


Peter, koji je glavni savjet koji dajete Juri u pogledu vođenja trgovine? pp — Prije svega taj da o svemu trebamo dobro razmisliti te da je za sve potrebno vrijeme. Ništa ne možete prisiliti da odmah djeluje samo od sebe; svaki projekt i ideja moraju sazrijeti.

One of you grew up with two brothers, the other one with two sisters. What was your childhood like? pp — I’m the youngest of three brothers and due to the big age difference I was closer to the second son in the family, my brother Milko, with whom I also shared a motorbike, a Harley Davidson 125. When he studied in Tuscany, I drove to him across the Apennines the first day I got my driving licence. jj — When I was a child, I wasn’t just surrounded by my two sisters but also with a number of cousins, while our primary connection was our grandmother. We were driven to school by our grandfather who had a truly tiny car, nevertheless, as many of us had to be at school at the same time, we still crowded in. Since we’re of a similar age, at least one Malalan was in every grade at that time.

Jure, koja je bila najbolja uputa koju ste dobili od oca? jj — Bez daljnjega želja za sveukupnom izvrsnošću tvrtke: od ponude vrhunske kvalitete i sofisticiranog ambijenta do tima ljudi koji u tom ambijentu predstavljaju svijet tvrtke Malalan.

Peter, what is the basic advice you have given Jure about running the store? pp — Primarily, it’s that we should do everything after careful consideration and that everything needs time. You can’t force anything to work immediately and by itself, every project and every idea has to mature.

Peter, tradicija obiteljskog nakita u vama je vrlo snažna. Uključuje li to i ručne satove? pp — U našoj obitelji čuvamo dva sata. Jedan je zidni sat Zenith, koji su moji roditelji kupili u Švicarskoj dok je moj brat tamo studirao, a drugi je sat IWC Da Vinci s trajnim kalendarom, koji smo mi sinovi poklonili

Jure, what was the best instruction you got from your father? jj — Above all, he gave me the desire for the comprehensive excellence of the company: from top-quality products and a sophisticated ambience to the team which in this case stands for the universe of the Malalan company.

studirao u Toskani, odvezao sam se k njemu preko Apenina isti dan kada sam dobio vozačku. jj — U djetinjstvu sam pored sebe imao ne samo sestre već i cijeli niz bratića i sestrični, a baka je bila naša glavna poveznica. U školu nas je sve vozio djed koji je imao jako mali automobil. Unatoč tome, svi koji smo trebali ići na nastavu stisnuli bi se nekako u njegov sićušni automobil. Budući da smo svi slične dobi, u svakom je razredu bio najmanje jedan Malalan.

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ocu nakon umirovljenja. Oba imaju veliku sentimentalnu vrijednost za sve nas. Biste li rekli da se slogan „Vaše snove kujemo u vječnost” ne odnosi samo na nakit, već i na ručne satove? pp — Svakako. Preko satova želimo našem ubrzanom stilu života dati vrijednost i čuvamo ih kao nositelje sjećanja koje prenosimo s jedne generacije na drugu. jj — Volim to objasniti preko situacije u kojoj je otac sinu želio pokloniti sat za koji sin u početku nije uopće mario. Ali kada sam mladiću objasnio kako sat radi, koliko je njegov mehanizam poseban i otvorio sat pred njim, trenutačno se zaljubio u sat i sada ga nosi svaki dan kako bi ga podsjećao na oca.

Peter, the tradition of family jewellery is very strong with you. Does this also include wristwatches? pp — Our family preserves in our possession two timepieces. One is the wall clock by Zenith, which was bought by my parents in Switzerland when my brother studied there, while the second, an IWC Da Vinci perpetual calendar watch was given to my father upon his retirement by his sons. They both carry a great sentimental value for all of us. Could you say that the slogan “We Forge Your Dreams into Eternity” does not only refer to jewellery but also to wristwatches? pp — Absolutely. With watches we want to add our fast lifestyle value and cherish them as the carriers of memories that are preserved from one generation to another. jj — I like to explain this with using the situation when a father wanted to give his son a timepiece for which the son at first didn’t care in the slightest. Yet when I explained to the young man how the watch works, how specific its mechanism is and opened the watch in front of him, he instantly fell in love with it and wears it every single day now to remind him of his father. moments 35


UR A ROV DNE V NI K

W ATC HM AK E R’ S DI ARY

Ručni satovi i voda Wristwatches and Water

U urarskoj radionici Malalan često se susrećemo sa satovima koji zbog oštećenja brtve, koje je posljedica udaraca ili neredovitog održavanja, imaju oslabljenu vodootpornost ili su je posve izgubili. Mnogi nisu svjesni važnosti učinkovite vodootpornosti, a voda je jedan od čimbenika koji mogu snažno oštetiti sat ili u potpunosti uništiti brojčanik, kazaljke i osjetljivi mehanizam ručnoga sata. Mehanizam je od vanjskih utjecaja zaštićen kućištem, a najveći dio površine kroz koji voda može prodrijeti u unutrašnjost sata jesu dva dijela u kojima središnje kućište dodiruje staklo i poklopac mehanizma. Dijelovi koji pokrećemo tijekom rada sa satom također su jako izloženi: krunica za navijanje i gumbi kronografa. Često su pritegnuti za kućište kako bi se osigurala navedena vodootpornost. Mnogi se pitaju zašto ne možemo plivati sa satom koji bi trebao biti vodootporan do, primjerice, tlaka vode od 3 bara. Odgovor na to pitanje zahtijeva razumijevanje osnovnih zakona fizike. U urarskim tvornicama i radionicama ispitivanje vodootpornosti izvodi se pod statičnim tlakom i jednoličnoj temperaturi, no kada skočimo u more voda iznenada udari o kućište. Kada plivamo krećemo se u vodi određenom brzinom pa, unatoč maloj

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In the Malalan watchmaking workshop we often get wristwatches which due to gasket damage, often the result of blows or irregular maintenance, have had their water-resistance diminished or have even lost it. Many people are not aware of the importance of efficient water-resistance, nevertheless, water is one of the factors which can cause severe damage to or completely destroy the dial, hands, and the sensitive movement of a wristwatch. The movement is protected from external influences by the case and the greatest part of the surface where water can penetrate the interior of the watch are the two parts where the central case touches the glass and the caseback. The parts that are moved during the operation of the watch are also very exposed: the winding crown and the chronograph pushers. These are often screwed to the case to ensure the marked water-resistance. Many people wonder why we cannot swim with a watch which is supposed to be water-resistant to, for example, 3 bars of water pressure. The answer demands an understanding of the basic laws of physics. In watchmaking factories and


Oznake vodootpornosti i njihovo značenje  Water-resistance marks and their meaning Bez oznake No mark

Voda može prodrijeti u kućište čak i za vrijeme rose ili slabe kiše. Water can penetrate the case even upon drizzle or light rain.

Vodootporno Water-Resistant

Kućište je zaštićeno od male količine vode, a sat pri pranju ruku moramo skinuti sa zapešća. The case is protected from a small amount of water, the watch needs to be taken off the wrist when washing hands.

30 m (3 BAR)

Sat se može nositi za vrijeme pranja ruku ili tuširanja, ali ne i dok plivamo. The watch can be worn when washing hands or showering, but not when swimming.

50 m (5 BAR)

Sat se može nositi za vrijeme plivanja, ali nije prikladan za skakanje u vodu ili ronjenje. The watch can be worn when swimming but is not suitable for jumping into the water or diving.

100 m (10 BAR)

Sat je prikladan za površinsko ronjenje, ali ne i za skakanje u vodu. The watch is suitable for snorkelling, but not for jumping into the water.

200 m (20 BAR)

Sat je prikladan za sve vodene sportove, osim za ronjenje kod kojeg zrak u spremniku sadrži helij. The watch is suitable for all water sports, except for diving where the air in the tank contains helium.

300 m (30 BAR)

Satovi koji su vodootporni do 300 metara mogu se upotrebljavati i za ronjenje s bocama. Watches that are water-resistant to 300 meters and more can be used also for saturation diving.

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dubini često, utječemo na sat sa znatno većim tlakom od 3 bara, koji se uglavnom bilježi na dubini od 30 metara. Ne treba zanemariti ni ekspanziju materijala pri različitim temperaturama kada, primjerice, kućište ugrijano na suncu uronimo u ugodno svježu morsku vodu. Dakle, izvan laboratorija uvjeti nisu idealni pa kada u jednadžbu dodamo i ljudski faktor, vjerojatnost prodiranja vode u kućište značajno se povećava. Taj problem može biti uzrokovan nepravilno pritegnutom krunicom, dok je drugi učestali razlog oštećenje pokretnih dijelova do kojeg dolazi zbog udaraca koji mijenjaju prianjanje brtvi i tako slabe njihovu funkcionalnost. Još jedan važan faktor u pogledu brtvi jest i vrijeme: s godinama one postaju manje fleksibilne pa stoga i manje učinkovite. Za one koji svoje satove ne izlažu vodi, starenje brtvi uglavnom predstavlja tek potencijalu prijetnju, dok ih oni koji svoje satove nose stalno, čak i dok plivaju, mogu u potpunosti uništiti ako ih ne održavaju. Naime, nakon što slana vode prodre u kućište, osjetljive komponente mehanizma mogu se učinkovito popraviti samo nekoliko dana nakon nezgode. Zbog svega navedenoga uputno je, čak i samo preventivno, redovito provjeravati kod ovlaštenih servisa stanje brtvi u kućištu ručnoga sata.

workshops the water-resistance test is performed with static pressure and even temperature, but when we jump into the sea the water suddenly hits the case. When we swim, we move through the water at a certain speed and so we often influence the wristwatch despite the small depth with a significantly higher pressure than 3 bars, which is generally measured at a depth of 30 meters. The temperature expansion of materials should also not be neglected when, for example, we sink the case heated by the sun into the pleasantly cold seawater. Therefore, outside laboratories the conditions are not ideal and when we add the human factor to the equation, the probability of water penetration into the case increases significantly. This problem can be caused by an incorrectly screwed-in crown, while another frequent reason is the damage done to the movable parts due to blows which change the fitting of the gasket and thus weaken their functioning. Another important factor with the gaskets is also time: with the years these become less flexible and consequently less efficient. For those who do not expose their timepieces to water, the aging of gaskets mostly only presents a potential threat, while those people who wear their watches constantly, even when

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Bilo bi idealno kada bi vlasnici koji svoj sat redovito izlažu vodi dali sat provjeriti u ovlašteni servis jednom godišnje i to prije početka sezone plivanja. Tako se cjenovno prihvatljivim pregledima izbjegavaju zahtjevne sanacije oksidiranih dijelova ili čak zamjena cijeloga sata. Preventivni pregled vodootpornosti sata sastoji se suhe provjere u zračnoj komori nakon koje se provjerava stanje brtvi: ako su otvrdnule ili napukle, potrebno ih je zamijeniti. Svakih pet godina, kada naši urari obavljaju redovito održavanje vašega sata, jedan od najvažnijih postupaka jest zamjena svih brtvi u kućištu i sustavno ispitivanje kvalitete brtvi s posebnim strojevima za tu svrhu. Njima se simulira djelovanje podtlaka na prazno kućište, nastanak kondenzacije u kućištu zbog temperaturnih promjena, a kod profesionalnih satova i reakcija brtve pri tlaku usporedivom s onim na nekoliko stotina metara dubine. Tek kada smo potpuno sigurni da je kućište vodootporno prema standardima proizvođača, postavljamo mehanizam i jamčimo vlasniku odgovarajuću vodootpornost te da će ga ručni sat pratiti u svakom izazovu.

swimming, can totally destroy their timepiece if they do not service it. Namely, after the salty water penetrates the case, the sensitive components of the movement can efficiently be repaired only a few days after the incident. Due to all this it is recommended, if only preventively, that you regularly check the state of the gaskets in the case of the wristwatch at official service outlets. Ideally, those owners who expose their watch to water regularly, should have it checked at the official service centres once a year, prior to the swimming season. Thus, the affordable check-up avoids the demanding restoration of the oxidised movement or even the replacement of the entire timepiece. The preventive inspection of the wristwatch water-resistance consists of a dry test in the air chamber, after which the condition of the gaskets is checked: if they are hardened or cracked, they have to be replaced. Every 5 years, when our watchmaking workshop performs the regular maintenance service of your timepiece, one of the most important procedures is to replace all the gaskets in the case and then systematically test the quality of the sealing with machines specially intended for this purpose. They simulate the influence of negative pressure on the empty case, the creation of condensation within the case due to temperature changes, and with professional watches also the sealing upon pressure comparable to several hundred meters of depth. Only when we are completely certain that the case is water-resistant according to the standards of the manufacturer, we replace the movement and guarantee its owner the appropriate water-resistance and see to it that the wristwatch is their companion upon every challenge.

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D RA G ULJAR OV DNE V NI K

JEW E L L E R’ S DI ARY

Briga o nakitu u našim radionicama Care for Jewellery in Our Workshops

Ako je mnoštvo pokretnih dijelova u ručnim satovima ono što nas potiče da razmislimo o njihovom redovitom održavanju, kod nakita je priča ipak malo drugačija. Unatoč tome što su komadi nakita često remek-djela ručne izrade, načinjena od plemenitih metala te dragog i poludragog kamenja bez pokretnih dijelova, redovito održavanje i pažljiva uporaba podjednako su nužni kao i kod ručnih satova. Kada u suradnji s vama izrađujemo novi nakit uglavnom smo vrlo pažljivi kod postavljanja dragulja jer moraju biti estetski privlačni, a istodobno služiti svojoj osnovnoj svrsi. Dragulji moraju ostati na svom mjestu, ne smiju se pomicati ili ispasti iz nakita. Kada mi zlatari izrađujemo nakit, suočavamo se s izazovima u pogledu usklađivanja manjih odstupanja u besprijekornu cjelinu. To često znači da se sjedište mora malo prilagoditi kamenu, za što je potrebno puno osjećaja i sabranosti te posebno puno finih mehaničkih vještina. Baš kao i ljudi, i nakit je živa stvar koja se nošenjem prilagođava svome vlasniku. Nakon mjeseci ili godina nošenja on polako mijenja svoj oblik, dok osjetljivi spojevi mekših dragulja mogu popustiti zbog različitih vanjskih čimbenika. To je posebice izraženo kod

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If the plethora of movable parts in wristwatches is what encourages us to consider regular maintenance, the story is slightly different with jewellery. Despite the fact that these pieces are often craftsmanship masterpieces made of precious metals and precious as well as semi-precious stones without movable parts, regular maintenance and careful use are just as necessary as with wristwatches. When we create new jewellery in collaboration with you, we are frequently very careful how we set the gems since they have to be aesthetically attractive and serve their basic purpose at the same time. The gemstones have to stay in place, they should not move or fall out of jewellery pieces. While goldsmiths make the jewellery, we face the challenges of synchronising small deviations into a perfect whole. This often means that the seating has to be slightly adjusted to the gems, which takes a lot of feeling, concentration, and especially a lot of fine mechanical skills. Just like people, jewellery is a living thing and by being worn it gets adapted to its owner. After months or years, it changes form slightly, while the delicate grips of softer gems can get loosened due to various external factors. This is especially noticeable


prstenja kod kojih se ponekad dogodi da se zbog njihove konstantne upotrebe dragulji počnu micati, a spojevi olabave ili se istroše. Dame često kombiniraju nekoliko komada nakita koji se međusobno dodiruju tijekom višegodišnjeg nošenja. To može dovesti do ogrebotina na plemenitim metalima zbog njihova međusobnog luženja, postupnog habanja spojeva ili čak oštećenja mekšeg kamenja kada ono dođe u kontakt s tvrđim materijalima. Da biste to izbjegli, preporučujemo da šest mjeseci nakon kupnje novog komada nakita posjetite jednu od naših trgovina radi preventivnog pregleda nakita. To radimo na sljedeći način: nakit prvo očistimo ultrazvukom, a zatim pod povećalom kontroliramo sve spojeve te provjeravamo je li zbog nošenja došlo do kakvog oštećenja. Eventualne olabavljene spojeve pritegnemo, a zlatne površine oživljavamo nježnim poliranjem. Na taj se način dame ne moraju brinuti da će izgubiti dragocjeno kamenje i svake godine osiguravaju sebi svjež i blistavi nakit. Oštećenje spojeva na dragom kamenju vrlo se rijetko događa, dok je potpuno uobičajeno da nakit lagano promjeni boju ili izgubi sjaj zbog mehaničkog trošenja galvanske prevlake na površini nakita ili zbog posve prirodne pojave oksidacije. Iako plemeniti

with rings where it occasionally happens that gemstones move due to constant use and grips slightly loosen or wear out. Ladies often mix and match several pieces of jewellery which touch one another during the years they are worn; this can lead to scratches on precious metals due to corrosion, slow wearing of grips or even damage to softer gems if they come into contact with harder materials. To avoid all this, we recommend that six months after you purchase a new piece of jewellery you visit one of our stores and have your jewellery preventively checked. This is done in the following way: jewellery is first cleaned with the ultrasound, then all grips are checked under high magnification and inspected to check if any damage has occurred due to wearing. Any loosened grips are refastened and gold surfaces are freshened by soft polishing: thus, ladies do not have to worry about losing precious stones and they ensure themselves freshly glittering jewellery every year. Damage to gem grips is very rare, while it is completely normal that jewellery slightly changes colour or loses its shine due to mechanical wear of the galvanic coating on the surface of the jewellery or a completely natural occurrence of oxidation. Even though precious metals do not react with other chemical elements,

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metali ne reagiraju s drugim kemijskim elementima, dodajemo im se malu količinu drugih legura kako bismo im promijenili boju. Te legure pridonose većoj otpornosti nakita na mehanička oštećenja, ali su sklonije oksidaciji. Postoji, dakle, nekoliko razloga zašto nakit mijenja boju ili sjaj. Najčešći razlog jest mehaničko oštećenje, zbog čega može biti nužna potpuna restauracija nakita u zlatarskom ateljeu. Ponekad do oksidacije dolazi zbog kiselosti ili lužnatosti kože njegova vlasnika ili pak zraka u okolišu. Do gubitka sjaja može doći zbog česte izloženosti kremama i jakim sredstvima za pranje, na što su posebno osjetljivi biseri, koralji, opali i slični materijali. Kreme, na primjer, ispunjavaju otvore u nakitu i smanjuju površinsku refleksiju koja inače stvara sjaj. Postupak obnove takvog nakita brz je i jednostavan te ga našim klijentima nudimo besplatno. Prilikom sljedeće posjete našim trgovinama upitajte osoblje za uslugu čišćenja nakita i sa zadovoljstvom će vam pomoći.

a small amount of other alloys is added to them to change their colour. These alloys contribute to greater resistance to mechanical damage in jewellery but are more prone to oxidation. Hence, there are several reasons why jewellery changes colour or shine: the most frequent is mechanical damage, which may demand a complete renovation in the jewellery atelier. Occasionally oxidation occurs in jewellery which is caused by the acidity or alkalinity of the owner’s skin or even the air in the environment. The shine can disappear due to frequent exposure to creams and strong cleaning fluids, to which pearls, corals, opals, and similar materials are especially sensitive to. Creams, for example, fill in the openings in jewellery and reduce the surface reflection which creates the shine. The restoration procedure of such jewellery is simple and fast, and it’s free of charge for our clients. Upon your next visit to one of our stores, ask the personnel for the jewellery cleaning service and they will be glad to help you.

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Novosti Novelties

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ROL E X

Cosmograph Daytona — 40 mm

ME HAN I ZA M MOVEMENT

REMEN BR ACELET

Mehanički, samonavijajući kalibar 4130, vlastite izrade, Superlative Chronometer. Rezerva snage: otprilike 72 sata. Frekvencija nemirnice: 4 Hz.

Oyster s plosnatim trodijelnim člancima od 18-karatnog Everose zlata i sigurnosnom preklopnom kopčom Oysterlock.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre 4130, Manufacture Rolex, Superlative Chronometer. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz.

Oyster with flat three-piece links in 18-ct Everose gold and folding Oysterlock safety clasp.

K U ĆIŠTE CASE

18-karatno Everose zlato s papučicama optočenima dijamantima, obruč ukrašen s 36 safira baguette reza u duginim bojama, vodootporno do 100 metara. 18-ct Everose gold with lugs set with diamonds, bezel set with 36 baguette-cut sapphires in a rainbow gradation, waterproof to 100 meters. B R OJČANIK DIAL

Crni i zlatni kristali s ugrađenih 11 safira baguette reza u duginim bojama. Black and Gold Crystals set with 11 baguettecut, rainbow-coloured sapphires.

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FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralna satna i minutna kazaljka, male sekunde iznad broja 6, 30-minutni mali brojač kod oznake za 3 sata i mali 12-satni brojač kod oznake za 9 sati, pokazivač sekundi s mogućnošću zaustavljanja radi preciznog podešavanja vremena. Centre hour and minute hands, small seconds hand at 6 o’clock Chronograph, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock. Stop-seconds for precise time setting.


RO L E X

GMT-Master II — 40 mm M EHA NIZA M MOVEMENT

Mehanički, samonavijajući kalibar 3285, vlastite izrade, Superlative Chronometer. Rezerva snage: otprilike 70 sati. Frekvencija nemirnice: 4 Hz. Mechanical, self-winding calibre 3285, Manufacture Rolex, Superlative Chronometer. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz. KUĆ IŠTE CASE

Čelik 904L, navojni poklopac kućišta i krunica za navijanje, safirno staklo otporno na ogrebotine, Cyclops povećalo iznad datuma, dvosmjerno rotirajući obruč s dvobojnim plavo-crvenim Cerachrom keramičkim umetkom, ugraviranim brojkama i oznakama, vodootporno do 100 metara. 904L steel, screw-down case back and winding crown, scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date, bidirectional rotatable bezel. Two-colour red and blue Cerachrom insert in ceramic, engraved numerals and graduations, waterproof to 100 metres.

BRO J ČA NIK DIAL

Crni. Black. REMEN BR ACELET

Jubilee remen s petodijelnim člancima i sigurnosnom preklopnom kopčom Oysterlock s proširivim člankom Easylink od 5 mm za dodatnu udobnost. Jubilee with five-piece links and folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link. FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralne kazaljke za sate, minute i sekunde. 24-satni prikaz sata. Druga vremenska zona sa samostalnim brzim postavljanjem kazaljke za sat. Neposredni prikaz datuma. Sekundna kazaljka s mogućnošću zaustavljanja za precizno namještanje vremena. Centre hour, minute, and seconds hands. 24-hour display. Second time zone with independent rapid-setting of the hour hand. Instantaneous date. Stop-seconds for precise time setting.

RO L E X

Datejust 31 — 31 mm M EHA NIZA M MOVEMENT

BRO J ČA NIK DIAL

Mehanički, samonavijajući kalibar 2236, vlastite izrade, Superlative Chronometer. Rezerva snage: otprilike 55 sati. Frekvencija nemirnice: 4 Hz.

White mother-of-pearl set with diamonds.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre 2236, Manufacture Rolex, Superlative Chronometer. Power reserve: approximately 55 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz. KUĆ IŠTE CASE

18-karatno bijelo zlato, navojni poklopac kućišta i krunica za navijanje, safirno staklo otporno na ogrebotine, vodootporno do 100 metara. 18-ct white gold, screw-down case back and winding crown, scratch-resistant sapphire glass, waterproof to 100 metres.

Sedefasti s dijamantnim oznakama sati.

REMEN BR ACELET

President, polukružni trodijelni članci sa sakrivenom preklopnom kopčom s krunom. President, semi-circular three-piece links with concealed folding Crownclasp. FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Središnje kazaljke za sate, minute i sekunde, trenutni datum, opcija zaustavljanja kazaljke za sekunde radi preciznog podešavanja vremena. Centre hour, minute, and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting.

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BRE I T L I NG

Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph — 43 mm

ME HAN IZA M MOVEMENT

BRO J ČA NIK DIAL

Mehanički kronograf, samonavijajući, kalibar Breitling 01, vlastite izrade. Rezerva snage: otprilike 70 sati. Frekvencija nemirnice: 4 Hz.

Black.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre Breitling 01, mechanical chronograph, Manufacture Breitling. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz. K U ĆI ŠTE CASE

Čelik, navojna krunica, vodootporan do 100 metara, safirno staklo otporno na ogrebotine iznad brojčanika i na poleđini kućišta. Steel, screw-locked winding crown, water-resistant to 100m, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass on top and caseback.  

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Crni.

REMEN STR AP

Krokodilska koža ili Professional III. Croco or Professional III. FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Kronograf, sati, minute, male sekunde, datum. Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, date.


B RE I T L I NG

Superocean Heritage II B01 — 44 mm M EHA NIZA M MOVEMENT

Mehanički, samonavijajući kalibar B01, vlastite izrade. Rezerva snage: otprilike 70 sati. Frekvencija nemirnice: 4 Hz.

BRO J ČA NIK DIAL

Modri. Blue.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre B01, Manufacture Breitling. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz.

Rubber Aero Classic or Ocean Classic.

KUĆ IŠTE CASE

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Čelik obruč koji se može okretati u jednom smjeru, navojna krunica, vodootporno do 200 m, safirno staklo otporno na ogrebotine.

Kronograf, ure, minute, male sekunde, datum.

Steel with unidirectional bezel, screw-down crown, water-resistant to 200m, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass.

REMEN STR AP

Gumeni Aero Classic ili Ocean Classic.

Kronograf, sati, minute, male sekunde, datum.

B RE I T L I NG

Chronomat B01 Chronograph — 44 mm M EHA NIZA M MOVEMENT

Mehanički, samonavijajući kalibar B01, vlastite izrade. Rezerva snage: otprilike 70 sati. Frekvencija nemirnice: 4 Hz.

BRO J ČA NIK DIAL

Modri. Blue.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre B01, Manufacture Breitling. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz.

Kožni ili Pilot.

KUĆ IŠTE CASE

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Čelik obruč koji se može okretati u jednom smjeru, navojna krunica, vodootporno do 500 m, safirno staklo otporno na ogrebotine.

Kronograf, sati, minute, male sekunde, datum.

Steel with unidirectional bezel, screwdown crown, water-resistant to 500m, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass.

REMEN BR ACELET

Leather or Pilot.

Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, date.

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TUDOR

Black Bay GMT — 41 mm

ME HAN IZA M MOVEMENT

BRO J ČA NIK DIAL

Mehanički kalibar MT5652 vlastite izrade, samonavijajući, COSC certifikat. Rezerva snage: otprilike 70 sati. Frekvencija nemirnice: 4 Hz.

Black.

Mechanical, manufacture Tudor selfwinding calibre MT5652, COSC certificated. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz. K U ĆI ŠTE CASE

Čelik polirane i satenske završne obrade, navojni poklopac kućišta i navojna krunica. Dvosmjerno rotirajući čelični obruč s 24-satnim anodiziranim aluminijskim diskom u mat crvenoj i modroj boji, safirno staklo otporno na ogrebotine, vodootporno do 200 metara. Steel with polished and satin finish, screwdown case back and winding crown. Bidirectional rotatable bezel in steel with 24-hour graduated anodised aluminium disc in matt burgundy and blue, scratch-resistant sapphire glass, waterproof to 200 metres.

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Crni.

REMEN BR ACELET

Čelik polirane i satenske završne obrade sa zakovicama, smeđi kožni remen „Terra di Siena” s preklopnom kopčom i sigurnosnim zatvaračem ili crni tekstilni remen s crvenom linijom i kopčom. Riveted steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, “Terra di Siena” brown leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with burgundy band and buckle. FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

GMT, centralne kazaljke za sate, minute i sekunde, datum. GMT, centre hour, minute, and second hands, date.


T UD OR

Tudor 1926 — 41, 39, 36 & 28 mm

M EHA NIZA M MOVEMENT

Mehanički, samonavijajući, kalibar 2824. Rezerva snage: otprilike 38 sati. Frekvencija nemirnice: 4 Hz. Mechanical, self-winding calibre 2824. Power reserve: approximately 38 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz. KUĆ IŠTE CASE

Polirani čelik, navojni poklopac kućišta i krunica za navijanje, safirno staklo otporno na ogrebotine, vodootporno do 100 metara. Steel with polished finish, screw-down case back and winding crown, scratch-resistant sapphire glass, waterproof to 100 metres.

BRO J ČA NIK DIAL

Crni, opalin ili srebrni. Black, opaline or silver. REMEN BR ACELET

Čelični ili čelični s crvenim zlatom, 7 linija, satenski polirani vanjski članci, polirani središnji članci, s preklopnom kopčom i sigurnosnim zatvaračem. Steel or steel and rose gold bracelet, 7 rows, satin-brushed external links, polished centre links, with folding clasp and safety catch. FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralne kazaljke za sate, minute i sekunde, datum. Centre hour, minute, and second hands, date.

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BU L G ARI

Lvcea Tubogas — 28 & 33 mm

Lvcea je prvi put predstavljena s kultnom narukvicom Tubogas koja nas podsjeća na Bvlgarijevo zlatarsko nasljeđe. Pet novih modela Lvcea Tubogas miluje zapešće pružajući iznimnu ugodu te unose svakodnevnu suvremenost u svijet Lvcee. Članci narukvice Tubogas, koji se doimaju poput opruge, pružaju ugodnu simetričnost u kontrastu sa savršeno okruglim licem Lvcee. Prozorčić za datum nalazi se na poziciji 3 sata, praktični kvarcni mehanizam napaja modele od 28 mm, dok 33-milimetarske inačice imaju mehanički kalibar s automatskim navijanjem. Svih pet satova Lvcea Tubogas ima dijamantne oznake za sate i ružičasti dragi kamen u obliku kabošona postavljen u krunicu. For the first time, Lvcea is presented with the iconic Tubogas bracelet, reminding us of Bvlgari’s heritage as a jeweller. Caressing the wrist with exquisite comfort, five new Lvcea Tubogas models bring an everyday modernity to the Lvcea universe. The slinky links of the Tubogas bracelet add a pleasing symmetry when contrasted with the perfectly round face of the Lvcea. With a date window at 3 o’clock, a practical quartz movement powers the 28mm models while the 33mm versions boast a mechanical automatic-winding caliber. All five new Lvcea Tubogas watches have diamond hour markers and a pink cabochon-cut gemstone set into the crown.

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B UL G ARI

Serpenti Tubogas

Ove godine Bvlgari predstavlja inačicu Tubogas kombiniranjem triju klasičnih boja zlata: bijelu, crvenu i žutu. Riječ je o željno iščekivanom povratku interpretacije koja daje suvremeni izričaj trobojnim kreacijama predstavljenima 60-ih godina prošlog stoljeća. Sat, u obliku zmijske glave, napravljen je od crvenog zlata. Njegova je silueta naglašena s 38 dijamanata, a krunica za navijanje ukrašena je ružičastim rubelitom u obliku kabošona. Brojčanik elegantno krasi crna podloga od opalina, fino obogaćena nježnim „guilloché” uzorkom i istaknuta satnim oznakama od crvenog zlata. This year Bvlgari is introducing a Tubogas version combining the three classic gold colours: white, rose and yellow. An eagerly anticipated comeback for an interpretation offering a contemporary take on the tricolour creations introduced in the 1960s. The watch, shaped like a snake head, is in rose gold. Its outline is accentuated by a setting of 38 diamonds and its winding crown is adorned with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite. The dial is elegantly attired with a black opaline base graced with a subtle guilloché motif and enhanced by rose gold hour-markers.

B UL G ARI

Octo Finissimo — 40 mm

Žive, svijetle boje izražene su kroz matirani efekt kojim se čuva kromatski sjaj metala. Sat Octo Finissimo Automatic vraća se na glavnu pozornicu s dvije nove interpretacije: u crvenom zlatu i čeliku presvučenom rodijem. Obje verzije pogoni najtanji mehanički samonavijajući mehanizam na svijetu: samonavijajući kalibar vlastite proizvodnje BVL 138 Finissimo. Ukrašen motivom Côtes de Genève i koncentričnim kružnim uzorkom, napaja ga mikrorotor od platine te ima rezervu snage od 60 sati. Vivid, luminous colours expressed through a matt-type approach preserving the chromatic gleam of the metal: Octo Finissimo Automatic returns to centre stage with two new interpretations in rose gold and rhodium-plated steel. Both versions are driven by the world’s thinnest mechanical self-winding movement: Manufacture self-winding Calibre BVL 138 Finissimo. Adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif and circular-grained, powered by a platinum micro-rotor, it delivers a 60-hour power reserve.

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CHA NE L

J12

ME HAN IZA M MOVEMENT

BRO J ČA NIK DIAL

Mehanički, automatski mehanizam.

Ružičasti sedef s 12 dijamantnih oznaka sata.

Mechanical, automatic movement. K U ĆI ŠTE CASE

Bijela, visokotehnološka keramika i čelik, vodootporno do 200 metara. White high-tech ceramic and steel, waterproof to 200m.

Pink mother-of-pearl dial with 12 diamond indicators. REMEN BR ACELET

Bijela, visokotehnološka keramika, čelična kopča s trostrukim preklapanjem. White high-tech ceramic, steel triple-folding buckle. FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Sati, minute, sekunde. Hours, minutes, seconds.

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LU M I N O R S U B M E R S I B L E 1 9 50 CA R B OT EC H T M 3 D AYS A U TO M AT I C - 4 7 M M ( R E F. 6 1 6 )

PA N E R A I . C O M

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PASQUA L E B RUN I

Stelle in fiore Očaranost noćnim zvijezdama i ljepota dnevnih cvijetova stvorile su Stelle in fiore, kolekciju inspiriranu plesom listova koji poput zvijezda padalica putuju najljepšim noćima, osvjetljujući svojom toplinom prvo dnevno svjetlo u proljetnim vrtovima. Contrarié zvijezda u cvijetu stvara zagrljaje svjetla između cvijeća i zvijezda, svjetla koje obavija i slobodno prelijeće preko kože u obliku ogrlica, narukvica, prstenja i naušnica. Bijelo zlato isprepleće se s bijelim i crnim dijamantima poput ljubavnika u noći. Crveno zlato obasjano je bijelim i champagne dijamantima na senzualnom svjetlu zore. It is the enchantment of the night’s stars and the beauty of the day’s flowers that have created Stelle in fiore, the collection inspired by a dance of leaves which travel like shooting stars in the most precious nights, lighting up with their warmth the first light of dawn in spring gardens. The contrarié of stars in blossom create embraces of light between flowers and stars, a light that becomes enveloping and free to fly over the skin, with necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings. White gold weaves white diamonds and black diamonds, like lovers in the night. Rose gold is illuminated by white and champagne diamonds in the sensual light of the dawn.

PAS Q UA L E B RUN I

Ton Joli Femme Ahat i sedef stapaju se u cvijet od ružičastoga zlata, obavijen listom bijelih i champagne dijamanata. Svilenkasti sjaj bijelog ahata sljubljuje se s lunarnom iridiscencijom sedefa kao da želi stvoriti zaštitnu auru oko žene. U izradi se zadržavaju nježne fasete reza taglio Bon Ton, ekskluzivne kreacije Pasqualea Brunija. Agate and mother-of-pearl blend into a gold rose flower, wrapped into a leaf of white and champagne diamonds. The silk-like glow of the white agate marries with the lunar iridescence of the mother-of-pearl, as if to create an aura of protection around the woman. The creation maintains the delicate faceting of the taglio Bon Ton, an exclusive Pasquale Bruni creation. .

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FOPE.COM

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POME L L ATO

Iconica Senzualna kolekcija Iconica pripovijeda o dvjema suprotnostima koje se sjedinjuju i međusobno nadopunjuju prepoznatljivim Pomellatovim stilom: jasnim nenametljivim milanskim oblikom i raskošnim izričajem u razigranim kombinacijama. The sensual Iconica Collection narrates two opposites that converge and complete each other with the distinctive touch of Pomellato: the unequivocally Milanese understated form and the exuberant expression when playfully combined.

POM E L L ATO

M’ama non m’ama U živahnoj igri kombiniranja i spajanja različitih elemenata kolekcije M’ama non m’ama („voli me, ne voli me”), bojama je moguće izraziti jedan potpuno novi svijet osjećaja, odražavajući uistinu jedinstven i prilagodljiv stil nadahnut modom i emocijama. In a lively game of stack and tell, mixing and matching different M’ama non m’ama (He loves me, he loves me not) colours can express a whole new world of emotions, reflecting a truly unique and changeable style inspired by fashion and feeling.

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MARCO BIC E GO

Jaipur Colour Marco Bicego u svakom komadu spaja tamnoplave nijanse London topaza i zavodljivu toplinu ručno graviranog žutog zlata. Svaki dragi kamen vješto je ručno ugrađen u 18-karatno žuto zlato, stvarajući besprijekoran kontrast između tame i svjetla, hladnog i toplog. Svaki dragulj obrađen je briljantnim rezom obojene prizme dok je površina elemenata od zlata potpisana bulino tehnikom Marca Bicega. Marco Bicego brings the dark blue hues of London Topaz and the seducing warmth of hand engraved yellow gold together in each piece. Every gemstone is skillfully hand set within 18 carat yellow gold, creating the perfect contrast between dark and light, cool and warm. Each gemstone is sculpted into a brilliantly coloured prism cut, whilst the golden elements have been textured with Marco Bicego’s signature bulino technique.

FOPE

Flex'it Solo Kolekcija Solo donosi novi suvremeni pravac u Unicu, kultno obilježje branda devedesetih godina. Zlatna mreža narukvice sada je savitljiva, nešto manjih proporcija od debljih lanaca svojevremeno u modi, a postoje i brojne nove verzije sa zlatnim petljama, biserima i dijamantima različitih karata. Koordinirani komplet uključuje i kratke ogrlice, ogrlice od lanca i s resama, naušnice i prstenje. The Solo collection brings a new contemporary slant to Unica, the brand’s iconic range in the Nineties. The bracelet’s gold mesh is now flexible, the proportions are slightly smaller than the thicker chains in vogue at the time, and there are numerous new versions with gold loops, pearls and diamonds in different carats. The matching set also includes chokers, chain and tassel necklaces, earrings and rings.

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DODO

My True Love Postoji li veća ljubav od ljubavi koju osjećamo prema svom kućnom ljubimcu? Nikako. My True Love, jedan privjesak u obliku mačke i šest privjesaka u obliku psa od crvenog zlata za vas i od čelika za vašeg ljubimca. Otkrijte liniju My True Love: privjesci od crvenog zlata za vas te od čelika za vašeg ljubimca. Bit ćete nerazdvojni! Is there any love greater than the love for your pet? Absolutely not. My True Love, one cat and six dog-shaped charms, available in rose gold for you and steel for your pet. Discover My True Love: charms in rose gold for you and in steel for your pet. You’ll be inseparable!

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NEROUNO

Available at Montegrappa boutiques and authorised dealers worldwide moments 65


F OTO -PR I ÄŒA

PHOTO - ST O RY

Trenuci koji vrijede Moments that Count

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Vrijeme koje provodimo na Krasu, između Tršćanksog zaljeva i Vipavske doline, ono je koje nas ujedinjuje na vrlo poseban način. Sunčani dani, tek s vremena na vrijeme uzburkani naletima tipičnog vjetra bure, mirisi začina i cvijeća u cvatu te slikoviti krajolik, stvaraju sjećanja koja zauvijek ostaju u nama. Kras nas povezuje kada bosonogi trčimo kroz majčine vrtove i gledamo jedinstveni zalazak sunca. Kada smo na Krasu, stvari koje često ne primjećujemo ponovno dobivaju svoju pravu vrijednost: tada se mamin nakit sjaji kao nigdje drugdje, a tata je gleda s onim posebnim sjajem u očima. On tek povremeno baci pogled na svoj ručni sat i to samo da bi se prisjetio sličnih trenutaka koje je proveo s mojim djedom i bakom. Za njega se u tom trenutku vrijeme zaustavlja, kao da ne primjećuje kretanje kazaljki.

The time we spent at Kras, between the Bay of Trieste and the Vipava Valley, is what brings us together in a rather special way. Sunny days, only occasionally stirred up by gusts of the typical bura wind, the smell of spices and blooming flowers, and the picturesque landscape create memories that stay with us forever. Kras connects us when we run barefoot through our mother’s gardens and watch the one-of-a-kind sunsets. When we are at Kras, things we often miss regain their true value: at those times my mother’s jewellery shines like nowhere else, while my father watches her with that special sparkle in his eyes. He only glances at his wristwatch from time to time and even than only to remind himself of the similar moments he spent with my grandparents. For him, time stops, as if he does not notice the moving hands.

F OTO G R AFI JE

M ODEL I MOD ELS

Š M IN K ER ICA

PHOTO G R APHS

A JDA ROTA R URA NKAR

MAKE -U P ARTIST

NE J C PUŠ

DAVID URA NKAR

S A N D R A B EGIĆ

L IA M URA NKAR

O D J E ĆA CLOT HE S

CIPEL E S H OES

AU TO M O B ILI C ARS

LO K A CIJ A LO C ATIO N

E M P OR I UM

T RANSPORT ER

PORSCHE KLUB SLOVENIJA

Villa Fabiani

BA N A NA R E PUB LI C

BIRKENSTOCK

Kobdilj, Slovenija

GAP

TOM M Y HIL F IGER

katarina.malgaj@malgaj.com +386 41 784 674

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Ona: prsteni i ogrlica Malalan Gaea, vjenčani prsten Malalan, ručni sat Rolex Pearlmaster 34. . Her: rings and necklace Malalan Gaea, wedding ring Malalan, wristwatch Rolex Pearlmaster 34.

On: ručni sat Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, narukvica Meister. . Him: wristwatch Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, bracelet Meister.

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Ona: ruÄ?ni sat Zenith Elite Lady Moonphase, nakit sa safirima: Malalan i Leo Pizzo. Her: wristwatch Zenith Elite Lady Moonphase, jewellery with sapphires: Malalan and Leo Pizzo.

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On: ruÄ?ni sat Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback, prsten Malalan Spomini: Emona, prsten Meister. .

Him: wristwatch Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback, ring Malalan Spomini: Emona, ring Meister.


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Ona: nakit s dijamantima Malalan. Her: jewellery with diamonds Malalan.

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On: ruÄ?ni sat Panerai Luminor Due, prsten Meister. .

Him: wristwatch Panerai Luminor Due, ring Meister.


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MARCOBICEGO.COM

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KOLUMNA

COLUMN

Bakin nakit

Grandma’s Jewellery

N A P IS A LA W O R DS D ES A M U CK

Imala sam dvije bake koje međusobno nisu mogle biti više različite. Kao dijete živjela sam u malom proleterskom stanu s maminom mamom koja je bila jednostavna, zapravo prilično siromašna, ali vrijedna i mudra žena, topla poput proljetnog sunca. Očeva je majka živjela je u velikoj buržujskoj kući uz rijeku Ljubljanicu i voljela nas je podsjećati na to kako osobno poznaje poznate stanovnike Ljubljane, posebice one ispred čijih su se imena nalazile poduže profesionalne titule. Na mjedenoj pločici na njihovim ulaznim vratima i imenu mojega djeda prethodile su brojne titule i kao dijete nisam ih mogla sve niti zapamtiti. Kada bi me netko pitao što moj djed radi, ponosno bih rekla: „On je univdiplprof, ali inače se bavi izradom papirnatih kapica, stavlja ih na prste i pretvara se da su ljudi.” Bio je divan drug maloj djeci u igri. Baka s majčine strane nije naravno imala obiteljski nakit, osim vjenčanog prstena s kojim je pokopana i nešto malo zlata namijenjenoga za popravke zuba, kojeg je pomno čuvala, za slučaj da zatreba nekom od nas, i dugo nakon što se takvi postupci više nisu radili. Kada je umrla, bilo mi je jako drago što sam dobila njezine skromne ukrase za božićno drvce. I danas čuvam njezinu šalicu za kavu koja nije ništa posebno, jednu od onih u kojima su u kantinama posluživali čaj, te tri jednostavna staklena tanjura za kolače. Čuvam ih kao najveće blago jer je moja baka obiteljske dragulje nosila u

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I had two grandmothers who couldn’t have been more different. As a child, I lived in a tiny proletarian apartment with my mother’s mother, who was simple, in fact quite poor, but hard-working, wise, and as warm as the sun in spring. My father’s mother lived in a big bourgeois house along the Ljubljanica and she liked to remind us that she was a personal acquaintance of famous residents of Ljubljana, especially those whose names were appended with long professional titles. My grandfather’s name on the brass plate on their door also had to be prefixed with so many titles that as a child I couldn’t even remember them all. If I was asked what my grandfather did for a living, I would say proudly: “He is an EnginGradProfessoring, but otherwise he makes paper hats, places them on his fingers and makes believe that they’re people.” He was a marvellous companion to young children at playtime. My maternal grandmother, naturally, did not possess any family jewellery, except for her wedding ring with which she was buried and a small amount of gold intended for tooth repairs, which she kept a close watch on in case any of us needed it long after these procedures were no longer done. After she died, I was so glad to receive her modest Christmas tree decorations. And until this day, I have kept her coffee mug, which is nothing special, like the ones in which they used to serve tea in canteens, and three simple glass


FOTO P H OT O ANA IZA SA JKO

svom srcu. Nosila je po jedan za svaku suzu koju je za nas prolila, za svaku nježnost s kojom nas je darovala. Možda ju je to bogatstvo stajalo i života s obzirom na to da ju je na kraju izdalo srce. Baka s očeve strane imala je, pak, puno nakita koji je obožavala. Redovito ga je davala kod zlatara na čišćenje i sada bi pucala od ponosa da zna da pišem ovaj članak za tako prestižnu draguljarnicu. Na ruci je uvijek, ali uvijek, osim vjenčanog prstena nosila još dodatna dva prstena, mali zlatni sat i ogrlicu oko vrata koja bi bila usklađena s haljinom koju je nosila taj dan, a uglavnom bi se radilo o niski biserja. U to je vrijeme broš bio neizostavan detalj. Budući da ih i sama često volim nositi, tim sam bila još sretnija s finom kreacijom Tjaše Malalan koju sam dobila kao ovogodišnja dobitnica nagrade Ona 365. Moja je baka svoj nakit posebno voljela nositi u ljubljanskom dramskom kazalištu u kojem je bila redoviti posjetitelj. Uvijek dotjerana, odlučna dama s prekrasnom kosom srebrne boje najčešće je za pratnju imala mene, s obzirom da nas je spajala zajednička ljubav prema teatru. Imala je više unuka, puno istaknutijih i vrednijih od mene, tako da nisam očekivala da bi meni ostavila išta od svog nakita. Često je govorila: „Tebi neću ostaviti ništa od nakita jer ćeš ionako sve izgubiti!” Bila je u pravu. Naime, kao dijete i kasnije kao tinejdžerka, izgubila bih sve što bi mi došlo u ruke.

plates for pastry. I keep them as my biggest treasure, because my grandma carried her jewels in her heart. For every tear she shed for us, for every kindness she bestowed upon us, she carried one. It could be that this treasury cost her her life since she died of a heart failure. My paternal grandmother, on the other hand, had lots of jewellery which she adored. She had it cleaned regularly at the jeweller’s and she would burst from pride if she knew that I was writing this piece for the most prestigious jewellery store in Ljubljana. On her hand she always, always wore two other rings in addition to her wedding ring, a small gold watch, and a necklace around her neck which matched the dress she wore that day, usually this would be a string of pearls. In those times, a brooch was a must. Since I often like to wear brooches myself, I was all the happier to receive the subtle masterpiece by Tjaša Malalan, which was my gift as this year’s winner of Ona 365. My grandmother particularly loved to wear her jewels to the Ljubljana Drama Theatre, where she was a regular. Always a dressed-up, determined lady with lovely silver hair and, most frequently, accompanied by me who shared her love of theatre. She had many granddaughters, many much more prominent and diligent than me, so I never expected her to leave me any jewellery. She was in the habit of saying: “I won’t leave any jewellery to you, you’d lose it all!”

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Uvijek sam bila u nekom svom svijetu, možete zamisliti... No, ispalo je da me na kraju ipak nije ostavila praznih ruku. Imala je nekoliko prekrasnih, dragocjenih komada o kojima se posebno brinula. Ja sam dobila par srebrnih, jako lijepih naušnica s pripadajućom ogrlicom, pored dvije vrlo duge ogrlice od jantra s velikim dragim kamenjem. Mora da se sjećala kako bih kao dijete sjedila u njezinom krilu i okretala ogrlice prema svjetlu dugo im se diveći. Za mene je jantar predstavljao najljepši kaleidoskop. Čula sam da je napravila detaljan popis točno određujući tko treba dobiti koji komad njezina nakita. To je zasad sve moje iskustvo s obiteljskim nakitom. Kada je lani umrla moja majka, sve što je imala dala sam svojim kćerima, onako kako je ona to željela. Kada gledam romantični film, baš kao i svakoj drugoj ženi, dođu mi suze na oči i srce mi jače zakuca kada na scenu stupi zaručnički prsten. Ako tome još slijede nježne riječi glavnog glumca: „Ovo je prsten moje bake. Morao sam joj obećati da ću ga dati ženi za koju ću biti siguran da s njom želim provesti ostatak svog života!”, onda će mi zasigurno i poteći koja suza niz obraz. I nemoguće je da se to događa samo meni. Jer, koji veći dokaz predanosti i ljubavi može postojati u bilo kojoj romantičnoj priči?

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She was right; as a child and later as a teenager I lost everything put in my arms. I was constantly in a world of my own, you can imagine… But it turned out that she didn’t leave me empty-handed after all. She had a few marvellous, precious pieces she took special care of; I was given a pair of silver, but very lovely earrings and a matching necklace, in addition to two very long necklaces made of amber with big gemstones. She must have remembered that as a child I used to sit in her lap and turn the necklaces towards the light, admiring them for a long time. For me, amber was the most incredible kaleidoscope. I heard she made a detailed list precisely determining who was to get which piece of her jewellery collection. This is all the experience I have so far with family jewellery. When my mother died last year, I gave all she had to my daughters, as she wanted. But when I watch a romantic film, just like every other woman I get a tear in my eye and my heart leaps when an engagement ring enters the scene. If this is followed by the gentle words of a manly actor: “This is my grandmother’s ring. She made me swear I’d give it to the woman I was certain I wanted to spend the rest of my life with!” Well, this is guaranteed to send a tear down my cheek. I can’t be the only one — for what greater proof of commitment and love is there in any romantic story?


P u r e l u x u r y. S i n c e 1 9 2 1.

T h e C o l l i e r C o l l e c t i o n . W i t h t h e g e n u i n e 18 - c a r a t g o l d s i g n e t . N e c k l a c e s : Ta h i t i - a n d S o u t h S e a c u l t u r e dmoments p e a r l s . 85 www.schoef fel -pearl.com


P H OTO S : M AR U Å A P U H EK

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STI L ŽI VOTA

L I F E ST YL E

Riva

Vješti tesar i La Dolce Vita

A Skilful Carpenter and La Dolce Vita

Kada se 1842. rijeka Oglio prelila preko svoje obale i opustošila područje oko jezera Iseo na sjeveru Italije, u popravljanju barki lokalnim ribarima u pomoć su pritekli prijatelji izbliza i izdaleka. Drvodjelac Pietro Riva odazvao se na poziv čovjeka kojeg je poznavao i uputio se u Sarnico s gotovo 100 kilometara udaljenog jezera Como. Nedugo nakon toga, zahvaljujući svojim iznimnim vještinama, dobio je prvu narudžbu da izgradi dva broda. Počeo je tako ispisivati povijest tvrtke koja do današnjih dana nosi ime obitelji Riva. Pietro Riva osnovao je svoju vlastitu radionicu plovila koju je kasnije nadogradio i proširio njegov sin Ernesto, koji je započeo s gradnjom motornih transportnih brodova. S tim je brodovima počeo organizirati izlete po jezeru Iseo te se, pored proizvodnje plovila, obitelj počela baviti i turizmom. Početak 20. stoljeća obilježila je Ernestova tragična smrt, pa je uzde tvrtke preuzeo njegov trećerođeni sin Serafino. On je iskoristio razvoj unutrašnjih brodskih motora i tvrtku usmjerio prema izgradnji sportskih plovila i plovila za slobodno vrijeme. Uslijedilo je razdoblje razvitka potpuno novih pristupa u brodogradnji, koje je na neko vrijeme omeo Prvi svjetski rat, da bi ga onda, po završetku rata, potaknula propaganda fašističke vlade u dvadesetim i tridesetim godinama prošloga stoljeća. Trkaći brodovi postali su zaštitno obilježje tvrtke. Zahvaljujući Serafinu njima su upravljali najpoznatiji piloti toga vremena pa se ugled brodova s Rivinim potpisom proširio i puno dalje od obala jezera Iseo. Nastupila su desetljeća razvoja kao i nastojanja da se tvrtka probije među najzanimljivije svjetske proizvođače plovila. Najprepoznatljiviji model tvrtke do danas je ostao Aquarama. Nadahnuće za njegovo ime dolazi od izraza „cineramas”, naziva za američke eksperimentalne filmove, dok su unutrašnjost i kormilo preuzeti iz klasičnih američkih automobila toga vremena. U Italiji su šezdesete godine prošlog stoljeća bile obilježene ekstravagancijom aristokratskih nasljednika i filmskih glumaca koji su se besramno po cijele noći zabavljali na francuskoj rivijeri, a jutra i dane provodili na prestižnim gliserima i jahtama koje su često nosile potpis Riva. Carlo Riva, Serafinov sin, u suradnji s arhitektima i dizajnerima učinio je od branda najveće dizajnersko postignuće toga vremena pa su se Talijanima u Saint-Tropezu često divili zbog njegovih brodova, razne ljepotice pokušavale su ih zavesti, dok su im mnogi jako zavidjeli zbog njihova raskošna života.

When in 1842 the Oglio River spilled over its banks and caused a havoc around the Lake Iseo in northern Italy, fishermen of the area received help in repairing their boats from friends near and far. The carpenter Pietro Riva answered the plea of a man he knew and headed for Sarnico from almost 100 kilometres distant Lake Como. Due to his exceptional skills he here soon received his first order to build two new boats: thus, he started to write the history of a company that has carried the name of the Riva family until this day. Pietro Riva established his own workshop for vessels which was later upgraded and enlarged by his son Ernesto and who started building motor transport boats. In these boats, he started organizing trips on the Lake Iseo and in addition to vessel manufacturing the family started working in tourism. The beginning of the 20th century was marked by Ernesto’s tragic death and the reins of the company were taken over by his third-born son Serafino. He took advantage of the development of inboard motors and directed the company into the construction of sport and leisure vessels. What followed was the period of development of completely new approaches to the building of boats, which was for some time hindered by the Great War, while after that it was stimulated by the propaganda of the Fascist government in the 1920s and 1930s.

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P H OTO S : M AR U Š A P U H EK

Vješta izrada, kvaliteta kojoj nema premca te inovativni i primjenjivi dizajn postali su zaštitni znak tvrtke Riva i, sve do danas, svaki pojedini brod, bez obzira na veličinu, i dalje obilježava osobnost nadahnuta njegovim imenom. Danas su ta nevjerojatna plovila čista oblikom, elegantna te, iznad svega, bezvremenska više nego ikada prije. Važna komponenta u svemu tome jest snažna poveznica između tradicije i dizajnerskog perfekcionizma kao i bezuvjetna preciznost pa tako duh Pietra Rive, mladog brodograditelja, i dalje živi dok Riva nastavlja stvarati brodove koje nitko drugi ne bi mogao stvoriti.

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Racing boats became the hallmark of the company, thanks to Serafino they were raced by the most famous pilots of the time and the reputation of the boats signed by Riva spread far beyond the banks of the Lake Iseo. Decades of development followed as well as of striving to get among the most interesting vessel manufacturers in the world. Until today, Aquarama has remained the most recognisable model of the company. The inspiration for its name were “cineramas”, the American experimental films, while the interior and the helm were adopted from the classic American cars of the time. The 1960s in Italy were marked by the extravagance of aristocratic heirs and film actors who shamelessly partied all nights along the French Riviera while spending their mornings and days on prestigious speedboats and yachts which were frequently signed by Riva. Carlo Riva, Serafino’s son, in collaboration with architects and designers established the brand as the greatest designing achievement of the time and Italians were in Saint-Tropez frequently admired for his boats, beauties of all kinds tried to seduce them, and many envied them tremendously for their luxury. Craftsmanship, unparalleled quality, and innovative and applicative design became the trademark of Riva and until today every single boat, regardless of its dimensions, has remained marked by the personality inspired by its name. Today, these incredible vessels are purified in their design, elegant, and above all, timewless more than ever before. An important constituent of all this is the strong bond between tradition and designing perfectionism as well as the unconditional precision; thus, the spirit of Pietro Riva, a young boatman, lives on, while Riva continues to create boats that could be built by nobody else.


# W A T C H B E Y O N D

BR 03-92 NIGHTLUM

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Vijesti News

Menadžerski koncert

Managerial Concert

Menadžerski koncert jedna je od rijetkih tradicija u Sloveniji koje održavaju sponu između umjetnika i onih koji donose odluke i rade u gospodarstvu. Nekoliko generacija slovenskih umjetnika uživalo je u pažnji i podršci sudionika ovog veličanstvenog godišnjeg događanja na kojem smo prisutni kao jedan od pokrovitelja. Gallusova dvorana Cankarjeva doma bila je i ovom prilikom dupkom puna, a simfonijski orkestar pod palicom Georgea Pehlivaniana bio je pratnja mezzosopranu Ireni Yebuah Tiran, sopranima Mojci Bitenc i Ani Berus, tenoru Marku Brajniku i baritonu Luki Brajniku.

The Managerial Concert is one of the few traditions in Slovenia that maintains the connection between artistes and those who make decisions and work in business world. Several generations of Slovenian artistes have received the attention and support of the participants of this magnificent annual event, at which we have been present as one of the patrons for many years. The Gallus’ Hall in the Cankarjev dom was once again completely full, while the symphony orchestra conducted by George Pehlivanian accompanied mezzo-soprano Irena Yebuah Tiran, sopranos Mojca Bitenc and Ana Berus, tenor Marko Brajnik, and baritone Luka Brajnik.

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Rolex Submariner u Ljubljani i Zagrebu U suradnji s vodećim urarskim brandom Rolex krajem 2017. priredili smo, kao prvi u Sloveniji i Hrvatskoj, informativnu izložbu o povijesti i razvoju kultnog sata Rolex Submariner. Na događajima u Ljubljani i Zagrebu pridružili su nam se brojni ljubitelji urarstva i kolekcionari, kao i oni koji se tek počinju upoznavati sa švicarskim remek-djelima. Predstavili smo povijest ronilačkih ručnih satova, osnove vodootpornosti i različita izdanja jednog od najpoželjnijih Rolexovih ručnih satova. Izložba je u obje prijestolnice bila otvorena više od mjesec dana, a posjetilo ju je preko tisuću zaljubljenika u satove.

Rolex Submariner in Ljubljana and Zagreb At the end of 2017, in cooperation with the leading watchmaking brand Rolex we prepared, as the first in Slovenia and Croatia, an informative exhibition about the history and development of the iconic timepiece the Rolex Submariner. At the events in Ljubljana and Zagreb we were joined by many horological enthusiasts and collectors as well as those who are just getting to know the Swiss masterpieces. We presented the history of divers’ wristwatches, the basics of waterproofness, and various editions of one of the most desired wristwatches signed by Rolex. In both capitals together, the exhibition was open for over a month and was visited by over a thousand horological enthusiasts.

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Broš Ona365 otišao je u ruke Desi Muck Časopis Onaplus organizirao je događaj Ona 365 u čast izvanrednim ženama koje svojim stavovima i predanošću svom poslanju ostvaruju vrijedna, prava i važna dostignuća. Prema mišljenju stručne komisije od 12 nominiranih nagradu Ona 365 zaslužila je Desa Muck, najčitanija slovenska književnica koja publiku oduševljava i kao glumica, televizijska voditeljica, scenaristica i kolumnistica. Generacije su odrasle čitajući Desina djela, a krug njezinih obožavatelja svake je godine sve širi. To ne iznenađuje jer Desa Muck svojom osobnošću i opusom jednostavno djeluje blagotvorno. Kao pobjednica dobila je priznanje i poklon – vješto izrađeni broš koji je dizajnirala Tjaša Malalan.

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Brooch Ona365 to Desa Muck The Onaplus magazine has organised the Ona 365 event to honour exceptional women who reach the valuable, the right, and the important with their mien and commitment to their mission. The winner of the title Ona 365 for 2017 from among 12 nominees was in the opinion of expert committee Desa Muck, the most widely read Slovenian author, who also thrills her audience as an actress, TV host, screenwriter, and columnist. Generations have been growing up reading Desa’s work and the circle of her fans widens every year. And not surprisingly: with her personality and opus Desa Muck affects people simply beneficently. As the winner she received an award and a gift, the skilfully made brooch designed by Tjaša Malalan.


Projekt Mladi junaci Početkom godine priključili smo se projektu Mladi junaci koji, pod pokroviteljstvom organizacije Global Shapers i u suradnji sa slovenskom udrugom Zveza prijateljev mladine, pomaže talentiranim i prije svega motiviranim mladim ljudima da ostvare svoje karijerne i životne ciljeve. Nakon uspostave stipendijskog fonda Mladi junaci, u suradnji s brandom Pesavento izradili smo vrlo poseban komad nakita. Ograničeno izdanje narukvica, od čije će prodaje dio zarade ići u fond, bit će dostupno do rujna 2018. u trgovini Mladi Malalan.

The Young Heroes Project In the beginning of the year, we joined The Young Heroes Project, which under the wing of the Global Shapers organization and in collaboration with the Slovenian Association of Friends of Youth helps talented, and above all motivated young people to achieve their career and life goals. Upon the establishment of the Young Heroes scholarship fund we have created a very special piece of jewellery together with the Pesavento brand. The limited edition of bracelets, from which a part of earnings will go into the fund, is going to be available until September 2018 at the Mladi Malalan store.

Dobrodošli su i bitcoini Nove tehnologije važne su nam u draguljarstvu i urarstvu podjednako kao i na blagajni prodajnoga mjesta. Vjerujemo da će razvoj kriptovaluta snažno utjecati na naše razumijevanje novca i stoga smo među prvima u regiji svojim klijentima omogućili plaćanje u najrasprostranjenijoj kriptovaluti – bitcoinu. Za više pojedinosti obratite se našem osoblju u Ljubljani i Zagrebu.

Bitcoins also Welcome New technologies are just as important to us in jewellery and watchmaking as they are at our store cashier. We believe that the development of crypto currencies will strongly influence our understanding of money and that is why we are among the first in the region who enable their customers to pay with the most widely used crypto currency: the Bitcoin. For more detail please contact our staff in Ljubljana and Zagreb.

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LAND

NAVITIMER 8

AIR

SEA

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Moments by Malalan #7 CRO/ANG  

A bi-annual magazine by a Slovenian high-end watch and jewellery retailer Malalan d.o.o. Project management, Editor-in-Chief: Nejc Puš Desig...

Moments by Malalan #7 CRO/ANG  

A bi-annual magazine by a Slovenian high-end watch and jewellery retailer Malalan d.o.o. Project management, Editor-in-Chief: Nejc Puš Desig...

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