World The
Summer 2010
Focus on Taiwan
ofTea
- Taiwan’s Major Teas and Tea Ware - Tea Culture and Ceremonies - History of Tea in Taiwan - How to make Pouchong and Oriental Beauty
Taiwan Tea Map TRES
Dadaocheng
CHINA FUJIAN PROVINCE Anxi
Rueifang
n sha Wen Pinglin Muzha Yingge
Yangmei
Longtan
HSINCHU
Tea Museum
TAIPEI
TRES
Ceramics Town
Kuansi
Jhunan
Tea Museum
Taipei City
TAOYUAN Tea Museum
TAIWAN
Danshuei Port
Tea Museum
YILAN
Wuyi
MIAOLI Birthplace of Bubble Tea
an
h Lis
TAICHUNG
Taiwan Strait
TRES
Taichung Yuchih Sun Moon Lake
CHANGHUA NANTOU YUNLIN
s
Tea Museum
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ou
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o
HUALIEN TRES
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ain
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n Do
Lugu n ai
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Tropic of Cancer TAINAN
KAOHSIUNG
TAITUNG
Anping Port
PINGTUNG
Kaohsiung Port
2 TheWorldofTea.com
Luye TRES
ofTea
World The
Summer 2010
Summer 2010 - Focus on Taiwan Taiwan’s Teas
Tea Culture and History
05 Camellia sinensis
16 Pouchong Paper Wrapping
19 Green Leaf-Hopper
29 Tea Culture and Tea Ceremonies
06 Taiwan’s Major Teas 09 Tea Plucking
24 Roasted and Aged Teas 28 Suan-Gang Tea
32 Ready to drink Teas (rtd) 38 Tea Factory Equipment
43 Cold Steeping vs. Iced Teas 46 GaBa Tea
48 Bubble Tea
25 Taiwan Tea Ware
33 History of Tea in Taiwan 39 Taipei’s Old Tea District 44 Tea Museums
Resources
52 Taiwan’s Five Branches of TRES 56 Tea Study Tours
56 Tea Publications
50 Lei Cha
57 Tea Associations in Taiwan
51 Tea and Food
Featured How to make:
Pouchong tea
18 Hakka Tea Culture
10
58 Tea words in Chinese & English
Oriental Beauty
20
22
Bird’s Nest Tea – tuo cha
TheWorldofTea.com 3
The World of Tea®
A Cup with the Editor
TheWorldofTea.com
I hope you have a good cup of tea next to you when you are reading this. So first, ‘cheers in tea!” The fact that The World of Tea® is in your hands is a dream come true. As a tea educator and lover of anything tea I have often felt that there wasn’t enough time to share the wonderful experiences in the world of tea. This publication is meant to help us share our passion for tea.
Last summer, I had the first opportunity to go all the way back to the
beginning of a cup of tea: On a
“In search of the perfect cup of tea … in Taiwan”
tea trip to the beautiful island of Taiwan I was part of a group of ten tea enthusiasts who were guided through amazing explorations of tea fields, tea manufacturing,
tea
tastings,
tea museums and anything else related to tea by Taiwan’s tea ambassador,
Thomas Shu of ABC Tea, and his wonderful wife and tour organizer, Josephine Pan of Organic Teas Only. The trip was sponsored by the Taiwan
Tea Manufacturers Association and every day we had at least three highly
experienced tea masters available for any questions on tea. In a week we learned – hands on - to make four different types of tea: Taiwan’s famous pouchong tea, honey green tea, Oriental Beauty (the champagne of tea), and tuo cha – our own compressed bird’s tea nest. A picture tells a thousand words.
I
publication plethora
of
hope
–
with
photos
this a
–
dedicated to Taiwan and its wonderful teas - will be an inspiration in your exploration of the world of tea.
Yours in Tea,
Kirsten PS. You may be surprised to see so many Kristensen’s behind this
publication. My daughter Maj Kristina (20) has been the graphic designer for my company Tea 4 U, LLC since it was founded in 2005 and her sister Lin
(18) has grown into a stunning photographer. Both girls are valuable assets without whom this publication would not have been possible.
4 TheWorldofTea.com
Editor in Chief Kirsten H. Kristensen Kirsten@tea4u.com
Layout and Graphic Design Maj Kristina Kristensen majkristina.com Photo Editor Lin Pernille Kristensen linpernillephotography.com
Writing contributors for this issue: Kirsten Kristensen Thomas Shu Photo contributors for this issue: Kirsten Kristensen Josephine Pan Publisher Tea 4 U, LLC (888) Tea4U-1-2 info@tea4u.com Subscription MagCloud.com
CONTACT US Do you have questions, comments, or ideas? Please call 1-888-Tea4U-1-2 or email us at info@tea4u.com. Visit us at www.theworldoftea.com Facebook.com/theworldoftea or follow us on Twitter.com/theworldoftea
© The World of Tea® All Rights Reserved. All rights of photos, writing, design and copyrights are the property of respective owners, and no assumption of ownership is made by this publication or the distributor. All photos, writing, and/or design may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from The World of Tea® and respective contributors.
Coverpage Kirsten Kristensen exploring the tea garden at the Taiwan Research and Extension Station in Wenshan, Taiwan member of
To save trees this publication is printed on demand on FSC-ceritifed paper (responsibly managed forests and verified recycled sources). Please pass it on or recycle.
Camellia sinensis Camellia sinensis is the species of the plant whose leaves are used for tea making. It is native to China and was first discovered some five thousand years ago. Today the tea plant is cultivated all over the world in
tropical and subtropical areas with at least 50 inches of rain annually.
The name Camellia origins from the 18th century when Carl Linnaeus (Carl von LinnĂŠ), the famous Swedish
botanist and father of taxonomy, named the plant to
honor Rev. Georg Kamel’s contributions to science. Kamel was also known as Camellus, a Czech-born Jesuit priest and botanist who wrote Herbarium aliarumque stirpium in insula Luzone Philippinarum (Herbs and
Medicinal Plants in the island of Luzon, Philippines). The name sinensis means Chinese in Latin.
The tea plant is an evergreen shrub but will grow into
a small tree unless pruned into waist-height bushes to ease harvest of the leaves.
Camellia sinensis has two varieties (or jats), Camellia
sinensis sinensis (the China jat) and Camellia sinensis assamica (native to Assam in India).
The flowers have white petals with a yellow center.
According to Chinese symbolic it means everlasting love, I admire you, or you are perfect in every way. Since
the old days young people have used the flowers as a way to express their love and devotion to each other.
The seeds of Camellia sinensis can be planted for new growth but can also be pressed into tea oil, used for seasoning and cooking.
Taiwan’s Major Teas About 16,000 households in Taiwan are occupied in tea (baozhong) teas from the Wenshan area. The central growing. Most of the tea fields are cultivated by private mountain range near the Sun Moon Lake in Nantou farmers with approximately one hectare per family. High County is home for the famous Dong Ding oolongs, and production costs from such small-scale Chiayi County is recognized for farming have encouraged farmers to high-mountain Alishan and jade TAIWAN’S TAIPEI pursue high-end oolong teas instead oolongs. In the northwest of the MAJOR TEA GROWING of competing in the mass export island Hsinchu and Miaoli Counties HSINAREAS CHU market for mid-range teas. Oolong specialize in the famous Oriental MIAOLI teas are semi-oxidized and grouped Beauty (pom fong cha) white tip by the Chinese as qīng chá, which oolong tea. means clear tea and fall between Although Taiwan might have had NANTOU green and black teas. Oolong (wū indigenous wild tea plants in the lóng) means black dragon that refers 17th century, the tea produced CHIAYI to an ancient tribute tea with its dark, today has its origin from two long and curly dry leaves. Another varietals brought by the Chinese theory refers oolong to a man from immigrants from Fujian Province Anxi in China called Wulong (Wuliang) in the mid 1800s. The Wuyi varietal who accidentally discovered semiwas mainly planted in central oxidation when he got distracted and Taiwan and the Anxi varietal in the let the fresh tea leaves partly oxidize. north. Over the last hundred years Almost all counties in Taiwan produce research and development, assisted some kind of tea, however, the major tea producing areas by the Taiwan Research and Extension Station (TRES), are Nantou, Chiayi, and Taipei Counties. The northern have resulted in numerous varietals that are cultivated Taipei County is known for their fragrant pouchong around the island.
The five major Taiwanese cultivars are 1. Chin sin oolong/Tender Heart (used for pouchong and jade oolongs) 2. Chin sin dah pan used for Oriental Beauty 3. Jin shuan /Golden Lily (TRES #12) used for high-mountain and jade oolong teas 4. Tsui yu/Kingfisher Jade (TRES #13), used for Dong-Ding and Alishan oolongs 5. Si chi chun/Four Season Spring often used for jade oolongs
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Pouchong
Pouchong (baozhong) is the lightest of Taiwan’s oolong teas with an oxidation of about 10-20%. The leaves are grown in the northeastern part of Taiwan in Taipei County in Pinglin Township in the Mount Wen (Wenshan) area. Pouchongs are sometimes displayed together with green teas due to the similarity to the Chinese green Pi Lo Chun teas and their very light oxidation. The processed leaves are long, dark and twisted. The infusion is light with a fragrant, floral aroma and a lightly sweet and long aftertaste. The liquor is light golden-green.
Dong Ding
Dong Ding (Tung Ting) means frozen summit or ice peak and refers to the mountains in Nantou County in central Taiwan at an elevation of 16002600 feet. Lu Gu Township (deer valley) is world famous for its Dong Ding oolong teas which have been made there since the 1860’s when scholar Ling Fong Chi is said to have planted mother plants from Wuyi mountains in Fujian Province, China. Experiments at the Taiwan Research and Extension Station in the area have created the Tsui-yu cultivar (TRES #13) also known as the Kingfisher Jade, which is used for Dong Ding jade oolong teas today. With more than 8,000 hectares of tea plantations Nantou is the most productive tea county in Taiwan. Although Dong Ding oolong tea signifies the area, black tea is also produced in Yuchih near the Sun Moon Lake. The Dong Ding Mountains are covered with fog and mist most of the year resulting in tender and flavorful tea leaves. The processed tea leaves are tightly rolled into balls which is the most common shape of Taiwan high mountain oolong teas. Dong Ding oolong is 20-30% oxidized, smooth with a medium body and a lingering sweet aftertaste. It is less baked than Tie Guan Yin and typically has the more greenish, jade oolong style.
Alishan
Tea plants at the Ali Mountains grow in Chiayi County at an elevation of 3300-4600 feet. Teas grown at an elevation of 3200 feet or higher are considered high-mountain teas. Like Dong Ding oolongs the leaves for Alishan oolongs are typically of the Tsui-yu cultivar with large rolled leaves and a purple-green appearance as dry leaves. With only a short period of strong sun during the growing season Alishan oolongs have a sweeter and less astringent flavor. The liquor is golden yellow, with a fruity aroma.
Lishan
Teas from the Li (pear) Mountains in north-central Taiwan in Taichung County are similar in appearance to Alishan oolongs. They are grown at an elevation of 5,200-8,500 feet in some of the highest tea plantations in the world, ideal for tea growing with their cool, moist, subtropical climate. Dayuling, Lishan, and Fusou regions are the most recognized areas for Lishan oolongs. Lishan oolongs are known as the “King of Teas” and are highly prized for their superior quality and limited quantities with only two harvests per year.
TheWorldofTea.com 7
Tie Guan Yin
Tie Guan Yin (Iron Goddess of Mercy) is Taiwan’s local version of the oolong with the same name in Anxi, Fujian Province, China. This tea is produced in Taipei County in the Muzha area. It is made either from the Tie Guan Yin or Chin sin cultivar. The leaves are slightly roasted, then repeatedly rolled in cloth bags by hand into ball-shapes, and roasted over a bamboo roaster. The oxidation is 35-40%. Tie Guan Yin is a rich, flavorful tea with a sweet, lingering aftertaste and an orange-yellow liquor.
White Tip Oolong (Oriental Beauty)
White Tip Oolong or Oriental Beauty is the most unique and prominent of all Taiwan teas and named by Queen Victoria for its beauty. With its white or golden tips and five colors of the dried leaves this is a well deserved honor. The leaves for Oriental Beauty are from the Chin sin dah pan cultivar and are grown in the low, warm hills of Hsinchu and Miaoli Counties in northwest Taiwan. They are picked in midsummer, mid- to late June, after the green leaf-hoppers (Jacobiasca formosana Paoli) have visited the leaves. These tiny cicadas feast on the buds and top leaves and their bites and saliva change the chemicals in the leaves which results in a honey sweet flavor in the leaves. Oriental Beauty is 70-80% oxidized and presents a medium-bodied bright red liquor with a fruity and floral, almost perfumed, elegant aroma and an intense, complex and supple flavor with a rich aftertaste of honey and peaches. Words to describe the aroma are lilacs, violets, osmanthus, citrus, and peaches. Other names of this famous tea are Eastern Beauty, Dong Fang Mei Ren (Oriental Beauty), Bai Hao Wulong (White Tip Oolong), Bragger’s Tea or Puff Tea (Pong Fong or Pom Fong Cha), and Five-Color Oolong (Wu Se Cha).
Ruby Black Tea
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Ruby black tea, Ruby Jade (hong yu) or Ruby 18, is a cross between a Burmese large leaf Assam strain and a Taiwanese wild mountain strain. It was created by the Taiwan Research and Extension Station (TRES) under the research name TRES#18. It is a strong bush with thick leathery leaves and a purplish shine. It has a spicy flavor with a hint of honey and a rich sweet taste and a slight aftertaste of mint and cinnamon. The liquor is bright and ruby. It took more than 50 years for TRES to develop the Ruby black tea. It was first produced in the summer of 2003, on the centenary anniversary of TRES. Ruby 18 is believed to be one of the truly unique quality black teas in the world.
Tea Plucking In Taiwan tea leaves are plucked in spring, summer and
autumn. For finer teas, such as the Oriental Beauty, the first two leaves and the bud are hand plucked in June and only by
the most experienced (and therefore often older) tea pluckers.
For other teas, three leaves and the bud are plucked, and for some even four leaves and the bud. In the morning, the tea
master will decide on the plucking standard and from which area of the tea garden the leaves will be plucked.
A good tea plucker (often women) can pluck around 18 kg or 40 pounds a day which will result in 4.5 to 5 kg or 10 pounds of processed tea leaves.
To prevent the sun from burning heads and skin, the tea pluckers cover themselves with hats and special long
sleeves. The fingers get sore from nipping the flushes (the new shoots) and experienced pluckers get creative with
duct tape and razorblades. The shoots are plucked with the middle finger and thumb. The tea gardens are often on steep
hills and require a good physical condition of the pluckers to maneuver.
How to make
Pouchong tea
Pouchong tea (baozhong cha) is a historic tea from
Taiwan known already during the Qing Dynasty (17761820). It is produced in the north-east mountain areas of
Taipei County mainly in the Pinglin, Shidin and Hsientien
districts of the Wenshan (Mount Wen) region. It is a lightly oxidized tea (10-20%) and is sometimes sold next to green teas, although the oxidization classifies pouchong as part of the oolong family. Pouchong teas are known for their floral
fragrance, golden-green color, and mild, sweet, smooth taste with a hint of melon. Pouchong dry leaves are curly
and twisted with a dark green color and an oily shine. The
cultivar that is used for pouchong is Tender Heart (Chin sin).
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‘Baozhong’ means ‘the wrapped kind’ which refers
to the white paper the tea leaves used to be wrapped in when the tea was ready for sale. The paper wrapping would help keep the tea fresh, especially the natural luscious
aroma which pouchong teas are famous for. In the old days
tea leaves were packed bulk directly in wooden chests for
export. Only pouchong tea would be skillfully wrapped in four Taiwan ounce packages (150 g) and then stacked in the master wooden chest for storing and export. Today most fine teas are vacuum-packed in foil pouches that preserve the
freshness and aroma and prevent humidity and light from destroying the fine tea.
FRESH TEA LEAVES
1 This pouchong tea
OUTDOOR WITHERING
4
The tea
was made on June 22, 2009 at the Wenshan Branch of the
leaves are weighed into batches of 2 kg (4.4 lbs) per person
Manufacturers Association (TTMA) for the participants in the
of water contents in the tea leaves. 2 kg (4.4 lbs) leaves will
Tea Research & Extension Station (TRES) in Pinglin. The
pouchong tea making day was arranged by the Taiwan Tea Taiwan Tea Study Tour June 2009. Tea Masters Mr. Peng and
Mr. Hsu guided us through the tea manufacturing process. The indoor temperature at the factory was 24˚C (75˚F) with
a humidity of 88%, outdoor temperature 31˚C (88˚F). The
tea leaves were plucked by machine in the Wenshan area, approx 500 m (1650 ft) altitude, earlier in the morning and arrived at 10:50 am.
2
The leaves here are of the Chin sin
cultivar that is usually used for pouchong; four leaves and a bud, machine plucked. 3 The tea leaves have an invigorating aroma and freshness, and the leaves are crisp and stout.
divided onto bamboo trays. 11 am: Each person brings out
his/her share for outdoor sun withering to speed evaporation turn into 500 g (1.1 lb) dried tea when it is totally processed.
5
The leaves are divided into two trays. The leaves are
carefully tossed and fluffed to agitate and promote an even oxidation. The leaves are left to wither for 10-20 minutes,
which will bring down the moisture content in the leaves from 72% to about 60%. After a second tossing, the leaves rest another 15-20 minutes. The purpose of sun withering
is to raise the temperature in the leaves. This changes the chemicals in the live leaves and decreases the moisture by
approximately 10%. Outdoor withering in the sun is quicker
2
1
4
5
3
than indoor withering but more uneven. Outdoor withering with shading will make it a more even wither.
INDOOR WITHERING
6
After about
30 minutes the two bamboo trays are brought inside for indoor withering. 11:30 pm: The leaves on the two
trays are divided into four trays and carefully spread out for indoor withering.
7
The indoor withering is
controlled by air conditioners that constantly regulate and adjust the temperature and humidity.
Withering
happens when the leaves are resting and losing moisture.
8
12 pm: After 30 minutes of withering the leaves are
“folded” to the middle. From the fragrance of the leaves the tea master can estimate the moisture content and calculate withering time. The leaves are touched with the whole hand,
with no fingers or nails touching the leaves. The pile of leaves is gently turned three times and sets for a couple of hours.
11
• Sun withering is quick but The tea leaves
on the stems are beginning to wilt, hang
down
uneven. • Shading and inside withering make it more even.
and
• Withering happens when
it is important that
• Oxidation happens when
get soft. When the
leaves are tossed the leaves are not broken. This will
give the tea a bitter taste.
Because of
increased sunlight in
the
summer
leaves lie still. They lose moisture. leaves are shaken. Motion brings out enzymes that stimulate oxidation. • High temperature kills enzymes and stops oxidation.
fields, crops
tend to have higher
levels of polyphenols and be a little morea astringent. April is usually the best month for pouchong teas.
Pouchong tea processing: fresh tea leaves
outdoor withering
panning
rolling
9 2:30 pm: There is now a very fragrant aroma in the withering room. The four trays are combined into two and the leaves
are gently lifted and spread out, but this time closer to the
middle. They are left to rest for about half an hour. 3 pm: The leaves are gently tossed to get air and lifted up in a larger pile
eight times. When the leaves are tossed, cell walls are broken
down. This brings out the enzymes that promote oxidation. The leaves are spread out evenly again and left to rest.
10
4:30 pm:
Tea leaves from the two bamboo trays
are combined into one and this time the leaves are lifted
or fluffed upwards with both hands (no flipping of the leaves, more a gentle shake). The leaves are formed into
a donut shaped pile about four inches from the edge that is now tossed for about 12 rounds. The moisture that is leaving the leaves will seek towards the center and evaporate. The leaves are laid out again to set.
12 TheWorldofTea.com
indoor withering/resting, tossing drying
packaging finished products
PANNING 12 6:30 pm: After half an hour outdoor and seven hours of indoor withering the leaves are piled
together on bamboo trays and brought to the processing room.
13 The panning oven is warmed up to 240-300˚C
(~460-570˚F) and the withered tea leaves are fed to the panning oven.
14 The leaves are steamed or fired for about
four minutes by turning them around in the hot metal tunnel
through which hot steam is blown. The tea master checks that steaming is in process. It is important that oxidation is stopped at the right moment to capture the special fragrance and aroma from the tea leaves. Pan firing (or stir-frying in a large wok) kills the enzymes that provoke the oxidation.
15
Yes, it is indeed steaming! Tour leader Thomas Shu got too close. 16 After panning the steamed tea leaves are poured back on a bamboo tray. Loss of moisture is about 30-40% at this point.
6
7
8
9
10
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13
12 14
15 16
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18
19 20
21 22 23
ROLLING
17
The steamed tea
leaves are brought to the rolling machine.
Rolling ruptures the cells and breaks down
the structure of the leaf. Rolling also reduces the volume of the tea and gives it a curling
appearance. The leaves are rolled, shaped,
and crushed for about 5-7 minutes in the moon type rolling machine.
It is possible that the Chinese characters for Bao-Zhong could have been Se-Zhong. In the old days when tea plants or tea seeds were transported from Fujian, China to Taiwan, they did not always know what specific cultivar the tea plants originated from. If it wasn’t e.g. a Tie Guan Yin, they would just name it Se-Zhong. The Chinese characters for “Bao” and “Se” are very close. So maybe the farmers have carried the wrong information about BaoZhong (wrapped kind) instead of “unidentified kind” through generations.
18 Withered,
content of the tea leaves is now 3% and the tea looks like the
pan-fired, and rolled wet tea leaves!
well-known pouchong tea, with its curled,
DRYING 19 The rolled leaves are now
dark green leaves.
23 The Taiwan Tea Study
gently fed to the drying machine.The drying
Tour
machine is set to a temperature of 100-110˚C (212-230˚F).
20
making.
2 kg (4.4 lbs) fresh tea leaves
During
became 4 x 125 g (4.4
the first drying process
oz) dried tea. To
the leaves loose moisture
enjoy
from about 45-35% to 23-
this
pouchong
17%, which is half dried and
tea,
half of what is needed to finish.
22 The second drying proces is
use
fresh water
that is about
much slower (about two hours) and is
done at 80-90˚C (175-195˚F). The moisture
TRES
very educational day of tea
conveyer belt and are
21
left
at 7 pm after a long and
The
leaves run through the slowly dried.
group
l teas, college professors in the Recently, as a way of promoting loca hong tea leaves in a tray at the Wenshan district have prepared pouc ents take with a spoon and fill entrance before finals which the stud the sachet to the student into a sachet. The professor will hand luck”. The luscious aroma from accompanied by kind wishes of “good to refresh their brains, so now the fresh pouchong tea is believed to be successful or “to hit the “Bao-Zhong” (包種) can also mean target right in the center” (包中).
80°C (175°F) and about
1½ tablespoon (3 grams) of tea
per 150 ml (5 oz) of water. Steep the
leaves for about 3 minutes. If you use more tea leaves for gong fu style tea, steep it less, 1-2 min. A good pouchong tea
can be re-steeped several times. Make sure to keep the dry tea leaves in an airtight container in a dry and cool place.
Pouchong tea will lose the fragrant aroma the more it is exposed to air and sunlight.
Machine Plucking The tea leaves for this pouchong were machine plucked. This is most likely why this pouchong is lacking some of the typical invigorating fragrance. The machine is much rougher and cannot avoid damaged leaves and cannot
pluck only the best sprouts that the human eye can select.
TheWorldofTea.com 15
Demonstration of
Pouchong
Paper Wrapping 1
2
3
4
5
6
By Thomas Shu | Photos by Josephine Pan Tea Master Wang is from the family of Wang’s who moved from Anxi in Fujian, China more than a century ago. Master Wang retired a long time ago, and now his son, Mr. Wonderful Wang (this is his English name for Wang Der Hou) is in
charge of the tea business, Jing-Hou Tea Company in Taipei’s old tea district. Master Wang used to export large volumes
of Taiwan pouchong to Southeast Asia (Singapore, Thailand and Malaysia). He remembers that during its peak time, there were at least 200 women at the plant busy wrapping pouchong tea the famous pouchong paper wrapping way.
The Chinese word for pouchong is ‘Baozhong’ which means ‘the wrapped kind.’ It refers
to the white paper the tea leaves used to be wrapped in when they were ready for sale.
The paper wrapping would help keep the tea fresh, especially the natural luscious aroma which pouchong teas are famous for. In the
old days tea leaves were packed bulk directly in wooden chests for export. Only pouchong
tea would be skillfully wrapped in 4 Taiwanoz packages (150 g) and then stacked in the
master wooden chest for storing and export. Today most fine teas are vacuum-packed in
foil pouches that preserve the freshness and aroma and prevent humidity and light from destroying the fine tea.
“
Many osmanthus trees with their creamy-white fragrant
flowers are planted around the tea fields in the Wenshan
area. The small osmanthus blossoms open up in the evening and send out a penetrating perfume scent that is picked up by the tea leaves that have finished oxidation outside. This is the reason why some pouchong teas can have a more
Today, Pouchong teas are vacuum-packed in foil pouches to preserve freshness and aroma.
mysterious and flowery aroma.
”
Hakka Tea Culture Hakka people origin from the Han Chinese and are believed to have migrated from Northern and Central China about two thousand years
ago to the Southern provinces of Guangdong,
Fujian, and Jiangxi. Some settled in Sichuan and some in Taiwan. Hakka villages can be found in
many areas of Taiwan and the Hakka people are
noted for their strong cultural characteristics and
heritage which are seen in their spoken language, customs, and foods.
Tea Farming Songs
Traditional Hakka folk songs are called ‘hill
songs’ or ‘tea farming songs’ because of their
origin from Hakka pioneers working in the tea fields or around their hilltop settlements. The
songs were used as a form of communication. In the Northern tea fields where only the finest tea
leaves are plucked for the famous Oriental Beauty you may still be lucky to hear hill songs sung by the experienced old tea-plucking ladies. Hakka hill songs are known for their wide variety of
melodies described as “nine accents and eighteen
tune patterns”. The hill songs have a high pitch so they can be heard by tea pluckers far away in the mountains. The Hakka folk songs are also used in Hakka operas that are performed on special occasions around Taiwan. They are known as
“three-part tea-picking” opera, which is based
on the adventures of tea plucker Zhang San-lang when he leaves home to sell tea. Grand opera
themes also include historical events and Hakka anecdotes. The musical instruments used in the
Hakka opera are northern pipes (bei guan) played on reeded-trumpets (shao na), gongs, and drums. There are still at least a dozen opera troupes
mainly located in the northern part of Taiwan in Taoyuan, Hsinchu, and Miaoli.
To read more about Hakka culture in Taiwan, see: www.gio.gov.tw/taiwan-website/5-gp/culture/hakkaint/ and www.gio.gov.tw/taiwan-website/5-gp/yearbook/2005/p294. html
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Delightful Rain (天公落水) ! Oh, heavenly God, it is raining! hat strolls to the tea A young man wearing bamboo
garden. the branches are full The tea bushes are green, and leaves. of young buds and new tender of snacks strolls to A young girl carrying a bucket
the tea garden. sweet smiles, Looking at her lover with big they both are hoping: our fine tea will bring We will have a good crop, and us a fortune!! ! Oh, Heavenly God, it is raining!
Hakka tea farming song translated by Thomas Shu of ABC Teas, “These farmers are waiting anxiously for the delightful rain in the spring time. A cup of fine tea is indeed filled with love and gratitude. Salute to these diligent tea farmers!” says Thomas Shu who is proud of his own Hakka background.
oriental beauty and the Green Leaf-Hopper
Oriental Beauty as the prominent name indicates – is the champagne of tea in Taiwan and is regarded the best oolong tea in the world. The name “Oriental Beauty” is said to have been given by Queen Elizabeth II of England when she was introduced to the tea and compared the colorful leaves to a beautiful lady. The dry leaves of Oriental Beauty are curly and twisted of dark purplish and brown color with white hairy tips. The more tips, the finer the quality. The name “wu se cha” (tea with five colors) is given for the multi-colored appearance of the dry leaves. June is the best time for harvesting leaves for Oriental Beauty. The cultivar is the Chin sin da pan which is grown in the low, warm hills of Hsinchu and Miaoli Counties in northwest Taiwan. At that time the leaves have been visited by the tiny green leaf-hoppers or cicadas (Jacobiasca formosana paoli, cha xiao lu chan, 茶小绿蟬) whose bites or saliva create a natural oxidization of the leaves that reduces the astringency and results in a desirable sweet honey flavor. Studies have shown that leaves that have been visited by the green leaf-hoppers have a higher content of gallate-catechin (polyphenols) and caffeine than other tea leaves. It is believed that wounded plants naturally accumulate polyphenols to protect wounds and infections. The tea bushes have to be organically grown for the cicadas to want to bite on the leaves. To make the best quality tea the tender leaves, two leaves and a bud, have to be handplucked by experienced pluckers on the right day and at the right time in the morning after the morning dew has evaporated. The leaves have a pleasant natural fruity aroma. Oriental Beauty is 70-80% oxidized. The infused tea has a dark yellow-orange-bright red liquor with a sweet, mellow taste of ripe fruit (peach) with a touch of honey and a velvety mouth feel.
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how to make:
1. Tea garden in Hsinchu County, North-Western Taiwan, 1100 feet elevation
2. Experienced Hakka people pluck the tea leaves for Oriental Beauty
3. Two leaves and a hairy silver bud, Chin sin dah pan cultivar
4. Leaves at factory: 2 kg, 88˚F, 60% humidity, 10:45 am
5. Leaves are gently spread onto trays for outdoor withering
6. Shading on and off – when the trays get too hot from the sun
7. Indoor withering – gently ‘fluffing’ of leaves for aeration
8. Indoor withering on racks
9. Withered leaves
10. Panning at 212° F, 2-3 minutes
11. Cover to hold moisture
12. Steamed leaves
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14. Slow panning at low heat
15. More resting of leaves
16. Rolling in cloth to preserve moisture
17. Another slow panning
18. Gathering leaves in cloth
19. Skillfully kneading the leaves – several times by expert tea masters
20. Drying of leaves
21. Enjoying a pot of White Tip Oolong, Oriental Beauty made in Longtan on June 26, 2009
oriental beauty
13. Resting leaves
A significant tea with many names: Oriental Beauty (Dong Fang Mei Ren Cha, 東方美人茶 ) is also called Eastern Beauty, Silver Tip Oolong, Silver Tip Formosa, White Tip oolong tea (bai hao wulong cha, 白毫 烏龍茶 ), Five Color Oolong (wu se cha), “Puff Tea” or Pong Fong Cha or Pom Fong Cha (bragger’s tea) in Hakka Chinese dialect which is still prevalent in Hsinchu County, North-Western Taiwan, one of the few places where this highly valued tea is made. As a rule of thumb the name “Pong Fong Cha” or “Oriental Beauty” is used for the fine grades of this tea, White Tip Oolong for the mediocre grades, and Formosa Oolong for the lower grades.
TheWorldofTea.com 21
e k a m o how t a e t t s e n s ’ d r i b ) a h c o (tu
hapes d other s n a s c is d blocks, re the essed into hina befo r C p m in o s c a a te Te to store se or mon way tored loo m s o e c r a a s s a a w ly pu’erh ay most te asty. Tod teas, main n y w D fe g a in r, M ve different gs. Howe molds of in tea ba to d e in h s d e u s r s c dy prog compre ow alrea still bein h e f r o a , n s o a ti te emonstra to a bird’s ere is a d ressed in H p . s m e o c p a is h s green tea hole-leaf . cessed w (tuo cha) owl tea” b “ teamed r o a ves are s a nest te le a te e e) of loos poured ndard siz re being ta s fo ( e g B 0 r. e 0 d 1 ark in a cylin or tradem minutes te o w n fe d a te r in fo , an impr show the at it will eese cloth h th c o a s to p in to ried. placed on ed and d is s s i) e r fe i p e is n ticket ( tuo cha when the a te e th f origin o
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1 3 22 TheWorldofTea.com
6 5
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Roasting An oolong tea may be roasted to refresh the aroma in a stale
tea or to lower the moisture content, so that it can be preserved and will keep the aroma and taste for a longer time. The moisture content should not be
higher than 3-4%; otherwise the tea can be spoiled by bacterial or fungal growth. Roasting can also help the tea get rid of undesired smells such as ‘grassiness’ from a poor frying during manufacturing.
When the oolong tea is roasted at a high temperature certain chemical reactions occur in the leaves. One is called the “Mailliard Reaction” where a group of sugars react with the amino
acids. The other is called “Caramelization” which oxidizes certain sugars or proteins in the leaves. Both reactions turn the leaves
brown and create an aromatic change. The infusion of a roasted tea will have an ambercolored liquor with a complex aroma. A well
roasted oolong can offer a roasted flavor with a soft sweetness and notes of nuts and pine needles. Generally, the lighter the
oxidization of the oolong tea (e.g. pouchong) is, the shorter the roasting time should be. Darker roasted oolongs (e.g. Tie Guan Yin) can undergo multi-step roasting over several
days, sometimes even weeks or months to
create the optimal robust and complex flavor profile.
Roasting an oolong to perfection takes skill,
practice, and patience but it is possible to play around with it at home with a small
bamboo roaster. Small do-it-yourself roasters
Roasted and Aged Oolongs While a fresh spring pouchong or high mountain jade oolong tea provides a light, refreshing and fragrant cup of tea, a roasted or aged oolong can provide depth and wisdom. The whole family of oolong teas – from the fragrant Wenshan pouchong to the high mountain Alishan jade oolong and to the famous Oriental Beauty white tip oolong - are all oxidized somewhere between 10% to 80%. The leaves of oolongs are tossed or fluffed by hand during manufacturing to promote oxidation. For oolongs three major qualities are important: aroma, liquor (color of the infused tea), and taste. Sometimes a tea may not have enough of the three values, and a roasting can be beneficial to create a tea that is more desirable.
are available from Taiwanese suppliers. It is
a good idea to get a roster with a temperature control (a timer) so that the tea won’t be burnt if you forget it. The roasters can also be used for drying herbs.
Aged Oolongs Aged oolongs are not just oolongs that have been kept to be old. The aging process requires knowledge and care. An aged oolong has been carefully selected, roasted to preserve the flavor and aroma and stored in
a suitable canister (unglazed earthenware or porcelain) or in a sealed vacuum bag. During the years the aroma and flavor may improve if stored properly in
a cool dark place, but the tea might have to be roasted regularly every 12-18
months to age properly. When stored, the container should be full to avoid oxygen, and the lid carefully sealed.
A superior aged oolong has a robust, rich, full-bodied, mellow mouth feel with a smoked, nutty flavor, sometimes with a hint of toasted almonds, chestnuts,
cocoa, raisins, dates, figs, or light charcoal. The liquor will be a rich, deep red-
brown color. Since roasting reduces the level of caffeine in tea, the aged tea will have considerably lower caffeine than the young oolong. To fully enjoy
the aged oolong infuse it with almost boiling water (195-202˚F) 1-2 minutes for the first steeping. Increase steeping time for consecutive infusions.
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Taiwan Tea Ware To create an elegant tea experience for the body and soul you will need tea, water, people and culture. An important part of this culture is the tea ware. Although tea ware can be found in teashops all over Taiwan the town Yingge southwest of Taipei is known world-wide as Taiwan’s ceramics town. The right tea ware can bring out the best in good tea, but aesthetics also play a major role. The Taiwanese culture of gong fu tea (preparing tea with great skill) is known as “Taiwan tea art appreciation.”
Yixing zisha clay
Yixing zisha teapots are made from the rare lead-free purple sand clay (zisha) discovered in the mountains of the Yixing Province in China during the Ming Dynasty. Traditionally they are small teapots used for the gung fu style tea serving and are found in all kinds of shapes, generally divided into geometric/plain ware, nature-inspired/flower ware, and veined types. For tea brewing in Yixing clay pots it is recommended to use a specific pot for each type of tea you serve, since the clay pot will season or pick up the flavor of the tea liquid over time and enhance that particular type of tea. If you are lucky to ever find or try tea from an ancient Yixing teapot, chances are that you will have a much better experience than tea made in some of the stunningly beautiful teapots available today. They are great works of art – and that is what they are; made by artists who have studied long and practiced hard to optimize the work with clay and form. Sadly they are not necessarily tea lovers and do not prioritize the liquid. The functionality of the artistic teapot can often be a problem and the spout may drip or pour irregularly. Before buying a pot, if you can, fill the pot with some water and press a finger on the hole in the lid. Pour the water out. If nothing comes out, the lid fits tightly. Then test if the water pours smoothly and doesn’t drip from the spout. Lift the teapot to see if it has a good balance. The shape of the pot should also work well with the tea leaves. Teapots from artists who also have a deep understanding and appreciation of tea may be the best choice.
Porcelain
To enjoy the aroma of the teas porcelain tea ware (ju ware) is preferred for non-oxidized, lightly or medium oxidized teas such as green teas, pouchong and jade oolong teas. According to Li Lian Chun, former head of the Chinese Art of Tea Craft Union and an artist of high quality porcelain tea ware, it is important that the decoration on fine china tea ware has a flowing shape, is fine and accurate, and that the glaze is well applied. The shape of even a small tea cup should have an aesthetic feel and a smooth outline so that the tea drinker can appreciate the beauty while enjoying the tea. Sometimes a light, shady blue color is added to the glaze to highlight the tea liquor and make it appear more beautiful.
Celadon
Celadon (qing ci) is a form of ceramics that refers both to the type of glaze and to the specific jade color. Celadon was invented during the Song Dynasty (960-1126 AD) in ancient China in the Zhejiang Province, but skilled Taiwanese artists have picked up this challenging, difficult, and time consuming art and have created beautiful tea ware to complement great tea drinking. Celadon contains minute amounts of iron oxide which turn into blue, bluish/green, or jade-colors when fired. The glaze can be crackled and cracked intentionally. When used for tea, the cracks will eventually be stained by the tea, giving the celadon piece an antique look. Because of the thick, soft glaze that helps keep the temperature of the liquid, celadon cups are particularly good for pu’erh teas, especially young sheng pu’erh.
Purion
Purion teapots are made of a mixture of mineral ore and pottery clay. Purion was created and introduced by Lin’s Ceramics Studio in 2006 as a way to connect with nature. Since the studio was set up in 1983 founder, Mr. Lin Rong Guo, worked determinedly to move away from the zisha pots and designed different tea are for different types of teas in order to help bring out the best in each tea. Because of the natural materials used for purion tea ware each item comes out individually with its own rustic colors. Purion tea ware is good for medium and heavily oxidized or fermented teas, such as aged tea, black tea, pu’erh tea, and heavily oxidized oolongs. Purion softens the taste of water and will help deepen and mellow the flavor of the tea.
Earthenware
Earthenware is good for semi-oxidized oolong teas, such as jade oolongs, Dung Ding and Tie Guan Yin oolongs and helps bring out both the aroma and flavor.
Glass
In recent years glass ware has become popular because of its translucency that allows the tea drinker to enjoy the unfolding of the tealeaves and to observe the color of the liquor.
Taiwanese Tea Sets
The economic development in the 1970s created a demand for special tea ware in Taiwan. Tea lovers began collecting tea sets not only based on functionality but also on aesthetics with matching items, and in the 1980s the concept of a complete integrated set of tea ware had become popular among avid tea drinkers.
The Teapot
The typical Taiwanese teapot is a small teapot known as “one pot many cups”. It refers to the gung fu style tea making where the teapot is filled with a good amount of tea that is steeped for a short time several times.
The Pitcher
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In the 1970s the British style creamers became popular as pitchers in the Taiwan tea art appreciation or gong fu serving. Gong fu tea is also called “lao ren cha” (old gentlemen’s tea or old folk’s tea) after senior citizens playing chess in parks while enjoying tea gong fu style. The pitcher solved a problem many had while pouring directly from a teapot that spilled and was hard to measure from. In the 1980s pitchers without handles became a new trend. Today pitchers are found with or without handles and sometimes
with a lid. While the teapot is used for brewing the tea, the pitcher or serving pot (gong dao bei) is used for pouring the tea. It is also called the “fairness cup” (cha hai) for its ability to even out the consistency of the tea liquor and to give it a uniform color. Where the British use two teapots, one to brew in and one to keep the strained tea for serving, the Taiwanese have a pitcher to hold the strained tea and to serve from. The pitcher helps the tea settle and cool down a bit before being served. It also prevents tea leaves from getting into the serving cups which may happen if poured directly from the teapot.
The Aroma and Sipping Cups
In Taiwan three important factors are considered while enjoying tea: the aroma, color and taste. One of the unique features of the Taiwanese tea art is “the twin cup tea appreciation.” The freshly brewed tea is poured into a long narrow aroma (fragrance or sniffer) cup (wen xiang bei). The guest puts a sipping (or tasting) cup (cha bei) on top of it, carefully swirls the tea, and turns it around. While the tea is now in the sipping cup, the aroma cup holds the concentrated aroma from the tea and will awaken the olfactory sense and fill the nostrils for some time. It is believed that the first aroma cups were inspired from tall cups used in the ritual of worship and Japanese ceramic sake cups in the mid 1970s when Taiwanese tea art began its popularization with the economic growth, urbanization and leisure time for tea appreciation. In the 1980s Taiwan oolong teas reached a golden height and were considered among the best in the world. Aroma cups supported the appreciation of the aroma. There are two types of aroma cups: one with a broader mouth and shorter body and one with a narrow mouth and tall body, the latter being the most popular shape. The aroma cup is usually used only for the first three infusions. The remaining cups are poured directly into the sipping cups.
Tea Tray
The tea tray (da wan gong), tea stand, or tea sink (cha pan) is used for washing and preparing the tea. It is found in many types of material such as two layered porcelain, clay or stone. In the 1990s refined versions in laminated bamboo or elegantly sculptured and finely polished wood became popular for the tea enthusiasts. It usually has a slotted top layer and a bottom compartment to hold excess water during the tea making process. Some have a drainage outlet for easy cleaning.
Kettle and Stove
Kettle and stove sets are used to hold the hot water for tea brewing. They can be small electric kettles, ceramic sets, or even thermos for picnic sets. The stove can be electric, charcoal, gas or an alcohol burner.
Other Utensils
Many other tea utensils have been developed to support the tea art appreciation. Artistic tea scoops and strainers of porcelain, bamboo or wood enhance the appreciation at any tea ceremony, just make sure they are not stained or painted with materials that may harm the tea such as varnish, lacquer and paint. Bamboo may be stained (cooked) with black tea, which complements the experience and is chemical free. The utensils may also be naturally tainted with the color from the teas during years of use.
Tea Jar for use.
An airtight tea jar or canister is used to hold and preserve the tea that is ready
Gaiwan
The Chinese ‘gai wan’ means covered or lidded bowl. It is used for making single servings of tea using the bowl for both brewing and drinking. Just tip the lid and drink or pour into a drinking cup, lift the lid and enjoy the aroma. The leaves can easily be re-steeped in the gai wan.
Mugs
In today’s business world Taiwanese people use modern tea mugs at work, at conferences and at home for convenience. Many variations are available, some with builtin or fitted strainers. Resources: The Art of Tea Magazine, #3, 4, 6, 7, 8 | Featured tea ware and catalogues available from: Lin’s Ceramics Studio, www.aurlia.com.tw | San She Ceramic Co., Ltd., www.sanshe.com.tw
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Bao-Chu Fan and son, William Cheng-Wei Huang, of Fu Yuan Tea Manufactory Ltd. in Lin Yun Village, Longtan, Taoyuan County
Suan-Gang Tea (citrus tea)
Suan-gang is a large citrus fruit that looks appealing
the fruit open at the top, put tealeaves inside and slowly
as a decorative piece on the table used for worshipping
ten years. The longer the Suan-Gang is stored, the tastier
with its deep and shiny orange-red color; however, it is extremely sour in taste. It is therefore often used
Gods and ancestors or to display good fortune and prosperity especially around the Chinese Lunar New Year.
Instead of wasting this beautiful fruit that is not suitable for human consumption, the Hakka people in Taiwan
invented a way to make good use of the fruit. They cut
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bake them until the color of the fruit turns charcoal black. It is now Suan-Gang tea and can be preserved for up to
it becomes. The tea picks up the citrus flavor and aroma
and makes a soothing and refreshing cup that is said to be excellent to fight a luring cold. Before brewing, the black dried fruit is chopped into smaller pieces of fruit and tea
that is infused with boiling water. Photo credit: Taiwan
Travel Net, TT News, reporter Tsai, Cong-Ting.
Taiwanese Tea Culture Gung fu tea (功夫茶) is a Chinese tea ceremony that means preparing tea with great skill. The origin can be traced back to Lu Yu’s writings in the 8th century “The Classic of Tea” with the focus on how to prepare, serve and enjoy the best cup of tea. For a Taiwanese three senses – smell, sight, and taste - have to be pleased when making good tea. This means that a cup of tea is evaluated for the aroma, color, and flavor. With the development of the economy in Taiwan in the 1970-1980s people got more leisure time and more money to spend. Traditionally decorated tea houses popped up and offered a place to relax and enjoy quality tea gong fu style. In today’s modern world western inspired tea rooms have also entered Taiwan especially in the major cities. Tea is a significant part of the Taiwanese culture and you don’t need to go far to find a place to enjoy a cup – hot or cold. A typical Taiwanese family owns at least one set of tea ware including a small Yixing teapot at home and many collect tea ware as a hobby. With the growing focus on tea taking the interest for learning proper ways to make and serve tea traditionally has created a demand for tea education.
& Tea Ceremonies
At a traditional Taiwanese wedding it is customary that the bride prepares tea for her new in-laws and the elderly members of the family to show them respect and gratitude. The marrying couple will kneel in front of the parents and honor the parents for raising them. Drinking the tea symbolizes that they are now a united family.
Lu Yu Tea Culture Institute
In 1970 the Lu Yu Tea Institute was established by the Taiwanese Ten Ren Tea company with the goal to develop and refine Chinese tea culture. The Lu Yu Tea Institute, based on the third floor in the Ten Ren building at 64, Heng-Yang Road in Taipei, has been a leader in research, systemization, and development of tea equipment and tea brewing techniques. During the last forty years the institute has educated tea drinkers - especially house wives, students and young adults - in Taiwan, Japan, Korea, and
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The Seven Principles of the Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony 1. Seating is randomly chosen. There are no priority seats, no social status, all are equal. 2. Tea is served to the left and received from the right. No reward is expected. 3. Everyone accepts and appreciates the different teas without bias. 4. Tea is brewed to the best of the participant’s ability no matter at which level he/she is. Concentration and improvement are the only guidelines. 5. There is no director or leader. Everyone follows the public announcement. 6. All are silent during brewing with the purpose of creating group rhythm and harmony. A smile or bow is accepted when receiving tea. 7. There is no specific tea brewing manner, school or region.
China in the proper methods and techniques of Chinese tea culture. After a thorough examination, both written and practical, the students are certified as Tea Masters from the Lu Yu Tea Institute.
The Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony
One of the concepts the Lu Yu Tea Institute teaches is the WuWo Tea Ceremony (無我茶). The Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony was founded about twenty years ago by Grand Master Tsai, Rong Tsang, director of the Lu Yu Tea Culture Institute. The tea ceremony focuses on establishing a sense of equality among all participants without prejudice to knowledge, wealth and appearance or to class, status or social difference. The Chinese word “wu” means void or emptiness in the mind. “Wo” means mine, self or state of being. Combined the words seem contradictory, but the philosophy is to create a state
in the mind where the person just “is” without focusing on anything physical, mental or emotional. The idea is to pursue peace, sharing, simplicity and naturalness. The participants gather in a circle and everyone brews, serves, and drinks tea. Participants bring their own tea ware and water, and there is no requirement to tea school, tea ware or tea that is served. There is no leader; all participants follow the seven basic rules and serves tea to the left. The symbolic logo for the Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony is a circular rainbow with seven basic colors that mixed together will transform into a blank white light, the “wu”/void. The first International Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony was held in Taipei in 1980. Since then ceremonies have been held annually in China, Japan, Korea, or Singapore. The 12th was held in California in October, 2009. For the Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony, photo and text permission by Steven R. Jones, http://teaarts.blogspot.com.
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ready to drink
(rtd)
teas
Uni-President Enterprises Corp., one of the largest food and beverage companies in Taiwan, is believed to have started the trend towards ready-to-drink (RTD) products with their “Mine Shine” black tea in the 1980s, although it might have been more like a tea-flavored drink. In 1990 Sinn Si Industrial Co. Ltd. launched its Kaisi Oolong Tea which was heavily marketed on TV as being a part of Taiwanese culture. In 1991 Kaisi Oolong Tea sales totaled US$181million (83%) out of total teasector sales of US$218 million. In 1993 total sales were US$351 million and have continued to grow with the development of new trendy tea drinks. Although the RTD market started with black teas, the trend quickly turned to oolong teas, floral teas, milk teas, and with the influence from Japan, to green teas. Consumers’ attention to health and wellness turned the interest towards non-sweetened green and oolong teas and to sugar-free or low sugar choices with no artificial flavoring. Today the Taiwanese tea beverage market of ready-to-drink teas is highly competitive and drinks with specialization such as ‘slimming functions’ or special origin using Japanese leaves is one of the trends, as well as unsweetened teas. Convenience stores in Taiwan have more than 50% of the market share for chilled beverages which include coffee, juice and teas. In 2006 Uni-President had a market share of 45% with sales totaling US$293 million. In 2007 three out of the company’s seven tea brands were among the country’s top ten brands. Health orientation is one of the fundamental concepts that are considered when developing new products. In 2006 Taiwan’s total beverage market was worth US$1.5 billion. With 42% of the total market, tea was the most popular section with sales of more than US$600 million. 32 beverage manufacturers launched new products focused on tea. A company like YES has brought Japanese technology to Taiwan and uses infrared rays to treat the tea leaves at 68˚C (154˚F). The lower temperature helps overcome problems associated with traditional tea producing technologies and thus preserves 100% of the tea’s polyphenols and 100% of its aroma. This makes the teas healthier and taste better. With continuously busy lifestyles many consumers lack the time for sports and exercise but still enjoy traditional heavy meals. Marketing campaigns have been successful in promoting RTD teas to complement meals and to help remove sensation of oiliness from heavy food.
[ ] History of Tea in Taiwan
Taiwan is an island approximately the size of Maryland and Delaware combined, separated from China by the Taiwan Strait. Nearest mainland is Fujian Province in China. The mountainous island is 245 miles long and 89 miles wide and spans across the Tropic of Cancer providing both a tropical and subtropical climate.
The tea bush, Camellia sinensis, is native to Taiwan and was most likely used as a medicinal plant by the aboriginal inhabitants of the island long before we knew about tea in the Western world. However, immigrants, many of
them Hakka Chinese, mainly from Guangdong and Fujian Provinces in China are believed to have brought their
own tea plants which they cultivated into tea bushes and tea gardens. It is not really clear when exactly this tea came to Taiwan. Some sources state that it was brought to Taiwan from the Jiangsu and Fujian provinces in China
during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing Dynasties (16441912). Others indicate that the first tea plants were brought in by immigrant workers from Fujian sometime
between 1790 and 1820. A third source mentions 1810
as the year tea was brought to Taiwan by Chinese merchants.
So it is likely that tea cultivation in Taiwan, the way we know it as an infused hot beverage, began sometime during the mid-Qing Dynasties.
Portuguese sailors came by Taiwan in 1544 and named the
island “Ilha Formosa” which means Beautiful Island. For many years Taiwan was known in the Western world as
Formosa because of the name “Formosa Tea” which was
used to distinguish Taiwan teas from Chinese teas. The Dutch occupied and colonized Taiwan from 1624 to 1662 using the
island as a center for trade with Japan and China. Records show that in 1636 the Dutch East India Company in Taiwan
imported tea from Amoy (Xiamen, in Southeastern Fujian, China) to re-export to Persia, India, and Europe through Batavia (now Jakarta, Indonesia). In 1645 the Governor of Batavia is said to have reported the discovery of indigenous
wild tea plants by the Dutch in Taiwan. Even though the Dutch are the first to have brought tea to Europe and
America (New Amsterdam) in the early 1600s, no records show that they promoted a serious cultivation of tea
on the island of Taiwan. The more than 20,000 Chinese immigrants who worked on tenure for the Dutch to develop agricultural crops might have brought their own
seedlings with them to grow on their own properties, but most tea was imported from Fujian at that time. The
Chinese did, however, bring their tea know-how and tea culture with them, not only as a daily beverage but also
for ceremonies such as weddings, funerals and to offer for gods through family worships.
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Crudely or roughly processed tea leaves (mao cha) from the countryside arrives at the tea processing company and are weighed and inspected. The photo is from the Baker Lib. collection, HBS, circa 1885 on display at the tea museum at TRES, Yangmei.
The period between the Dutch occupation and “The Treaty
of Tientsin” (1662-1858) was busy for tea trade between
Taiwan and China. Tea from Fujian was imported, for local
consumption, some plants were imported and in 1861 a substantial quantity of Taiwan tea is recorded to have been
shipped to Amoy from Danshuei, Taipei County in northern Taiwan.
In 1858 the “Treaty of Tientsin” ended the Second Opium
War between the Chinese and British. In 1862 the Qing
government opened two major ports in Taiwan – Danshuei,
(Taipei, north) and Anping (Tainan, southwest). The ports opened for international trade and among camphor, sulfur,
coal, and opium, tea quickly became a valued commodity for export. In 1866 British tea traders convinced English speaking
Chinese merchant Li Qunsheng (Lee Chun Sheng) to import
merchants rushed to Taiwan to establish trade companies
on the hills of northern Taiwan near Rueifang. Li Qunsheng
capital of Taiwan. Exports of tea grew significantly. By the
tea seedlings from Mount Wuyi in Fujian, China and they provided loans to local farmers to encourage them to grow tea was link
an
important
between
the
Chinese and foreign tea a
merchants
pioneer
in
and
the
Taiwanese tea trade. Around 1865 a scholar
named Ling Fong Chi is said to have returned from studies in Fujian
with 36 tea plants of the Chin sin cultivar.
They were planted on the Dong Ding Mountains (Lugu
Township, Nantou County) and are the mother plants of today’s Dong Ding oolong tea. In 1868 an oolong processing
factory was established and in 1869 the Englishman John Dodd of Dodd & Co. loaded 213,000 catties (127.86 tons) of “Formosa Tea” to be exported by ship directly to New York,
making it the first export of oolong tea from Taiwan (a catty is a Taiwanese unit of measurement equivalent to 600 gram, also called a jin). The teas were well received and foreign
in the Dadaocheng settlement along the Danshuei River, the
residential area for foreign traders, now a part of Taipei, the 1880s Taiwan had achieved a world-wide reputation for its
high quality oolong teas. Pouchong tea was first exported in 1881 and was often scented with jasmine. In 1895 tea exports were 14 times larger than in 1870 and covered 54% of Taiwan’s total annual revenue. In 1902 85% of all exports from Taiwan were teas.
Taiwan was occupied by Japan from 1895-1945. The Japanese established an infrastructure that positively contributed to
the development of Taiwan. The tea manufacturing industry was organized to boost production, and a new industry policy
prohibited tea manufacturers from owning their own tea gardens. Tea growing was for farmers who were encouraged to engage themselves in professional tea growing, whereas
manufacturers would specialize in processing the tea. Taiwan
teas were successfully promoted at world fairs. During the 50 years of Japanese occupation tea was an important export article in Taiwan.
In 1911 the Taipei Tea Merchants Association won the first prize at the Universal Tea Exposition in Torino Italy. In 1915 at the Panama Pacific International Exposition held by the United States to celebrate the completion of the Panama Canal, a gold medal was awarded to the pouchong tea produced by the Taipei Tea Merchants Association.
The Japanese favored green tea but also experimented with
black teas from seedlings that were imported from Assam, India and from Thailand. In 1903 the Japanese established a professional testing and research institute with facilities
in strategic areas of Taiwan and started cloning varietals In 1900 oolong tea produced by the Taipei Tea Merchants Association (established in 1889) won a grand prize in the World Exposition held in Paris, France.
of the Camellia sinensis tea plant. These testing stations,
known as TRES (Tea Research & Extension Station) were established in Yangmei (Taoyuan County), and later in
Yuchih (Nantou County), Pinglin (Taipei County), Luye (Taitung County) and Luga (Nantou County) and are still in
TheWorldofTea.com 35
existence today. The Japanese brought in advanced cultivation
and processing methods and experimental plantations were
set up in Yuchih, Nantou County and in Caonanpo (today Pusin, east of Yangmei, Taoyuan County) to promote black
tea production. Black tea was exported to Russia and Turkey in 1908. Major targets for black teas were the American and European markets.
1918 sat the highest record at that
time with total sales of 8,800 tons
of oolong tea. In 1937 5,800 tons of black tea was recorded to have been exported to mainly Japan,
the U.S., England, Hong Kong,
and Northeast China. In 1944 an
export record of 7,800 tons of pouchong tea was reached. Until 1948 pouchong exports continued to increase due to
demands from northern and northeastern China. In 1949 black tea exports reached a peak of 6,800 tons – 48% of Taiwan’s total tea exports – but declined thereafter.
When the Japanese gave up control of Taiwan in 1945 tea
manufacturing became influenced by the Chinese. In 1949 Shanghai tea exporter and merchant Mr. Tang Ji-shan
introduced the pan-firing method of making green tea to
the Taiwanese farmers and this became the majority of tea
To assist the private tea enterprises and merchants the government encouraged the establishment of tea
organizations. The Taiwan Tea Exporters Association
was founded in 1951 and the Taiwan Tea Manufacturers’ Association in 1954. These organizations still work to promote common benefits for its members and to support them in developing quality, innovation and international competitiveness.
exported for the next 30 years. Black and green tea exports
In the 1970s and 1980s labor and land costs increased
tea was first exported to Morocco, Libya, Algeria, Tunisia,
outputs. In 1974 green tea export sales decreased and Taiwan
amounted to 75-85% of Taiwan’s total tea production reaching more than 60 countries. In 1963 pan-fired green and Afghanistan and became very popular in North Africa in
the 1970s. Oolong tea was produced in smaller amounts and was mainly consumed by the domestic market. In 1965 the Japanese method of
steaming green tea was introduced by
Sha Keng Tea Manufactory (ABC Tea) in Taiwan and at the peak of Taiwan’s tea exports in 1973 12,000 tons sencha style green tea was exported to Japan, more than half of all tea exports.
and the high-tech industrialization and economic boom in Taiwan made it difficult to maintain competitive agricultural
felt tough competition from other major tea producing countries such as India and Sri Lanka. More attention was
therefore given to the development of the domestic tea
market and tea growers switched their focus from black and
Annual tea consumption per capita in Taiwan
1980
0.344 kilograms 0.757 pounds
1998 1.3 kilograms 2.9 pounds
source: Taiwan Tea Manufacturer’s Association
36 TheWorldofTea.com
2007 1.54 kilograms 3.4 pounds
green tea to high-grade
In 2000 Taiwan produced 21,000 tons and imported 20,000
annual consumption of
methods of cultivation and manufacturing make it possible
semi-oxidized pouchong
and oolong teas. The tea per capita increased
Tea rolling, circa 1850. On display at the Formosa Black Tea Co. Ltd museum in Kuanshi, Hsinchu.
from
0.344
kilograms
(0.757 lbs) in 1980 to
tons of tea while exports had declined to about 2,000 tons. Currently 21,000 hectares are cultivated with tea. Advanced for the country to produce over 19,500 tons annually.
1.54 kilograms (3.4 lbs) in 2007, a 78% increase.
1983 was a year of
fundamental change in the Taiwan tea industry.
The government revised the Japanese tea industry policy so
that tea farmers were allowed to now also manufacture tea, and the tea industry focused more on the domestic market than on exports. The first packaged barley-flavored black
tea beverage “Mine Shine” by Uni-President hit the market
in 1983, although the popularity of Ready-to-Drink teas (RTD – bottled, canned, or in cartons) did not set in until the
1990s (see page 32). To support the increasing demand for
The Taiwanese tea culture has been passed on through
India, Indonesia, and Sri Lanka. In 2007 RTD teas accounted
and education and through the many teahouses that are
lower grade black and green tea for RTDs and bubble teas, it became necessary to import teas from China, Vietnam, for one third of the non-carbonated beverage market with
a value of NT$15 billion (US$463 million). 1983 is also the
year the Chun Shui Tang teahouse owned by Liu Han-chieh in Taichung (south Taiwan) introduced ‘bubble tea’ – shaken
generations and plays a dominant role in the tea market. It
is kept alive through organizations dedicated to tea research
always eager to discuss tea production and serve cups of their best teas of high quality.
cold black tea with a fine foam on the top - and soon after ‘milk
Sources and further reading:
pearl tea’, a cold sweet tea beverage with milk and tapioca
balls (see page 49). Before 1983 the Taiwanese people had
TeaFromTaiwan.com
bought their chilled and sweetened ready-to-drink black tea
*
“One Town One Product”
at roadside stalls.
MOEA (Ministry of Economic Affairs), Small and Medium Enterprise Administration, http://otop.moeasmea.gov. tw/storypage.php?id=106326, http://otop.tw/storypage. php?id=102544
Tea cultivation and consumption in Taiwan
*
Taiwan Review Vol. 59, No. 5 May, 2009 www.taiwanreview.nat.gov.tw *
The Art of Tea www.gio.gov.tw
Tea Cultivation (hectares)
Tea Production (metric tons)
Tea Imports (metric tons)
Tea Exports (metric tons)
1997
21,199
23,505
7,692
2,918
2007
16,256
17,502
25,000
2,004
Image courtesy The Taipei Tea Merchant’s Association, Taipei, and The Formosa Black Tea Co., Ltd., Kuanshi, Taiwan
Source: Council of Agriculture, Taiwan
TheWorldofTea.com 37
Withering
Rolling Panning
Tea Factory Equipment
Drying
Walking tour
in Taipei’s old tea district For a tea history enthusiast Taipei’s old tea district Dadaocheng offers a tour back in history and plenty of old teashops to explore for exquisite Taiwan teas.
When the Qing government opened the port of Danshuei in 1862 for international trade, the tea
activity blossomed along the Danshuei River and in what is today known as Taiwan’s capital, Taipei
City. Dadaocheng harbor at the end of MinSheng West Road was a busy place for ships to load tons of
Entrance to Dadaocheng Wharf. The wall painting to the right brings back memories of the past.
Picturing the Dadaocheng Wharf Riverside Park along the Blue Highway and Huan He North Road. Formosa tea for exports to foreign countries. Da dao cheng
means a large courtyard for sun-baking harvested crops and during the middle of the Qing Dynasty (18th century)
the area was farm land. Today Dadaocheng Wharf Riverside Park offers a place to walk or sit and watch the sunset while reflecting on what was once a thriving place in the history of tea.
The gigantic and once spectacular mansion near the end of
GuiDe Street towards MinSheng West Road used to belong to the Taipei Tea Merchants Association that was founded in 1889 (see page 57). In the 19th century GuiDe Street was the first street along the river when you entered by boat.
Where HuanHe North Road is today was water at that time. The Taipei Tea Merchants Association was one of the first buildings the Chinese immigrants and foreign merchants would be met by when they came to
The junk is a replica of those used in the 19th century, and was used as trademark on tea packages during the Japanese occupation. market boomed and the Dadaocheng district became a congested area with lack of space for parking and expansion.
Many companies moved away from the area. DiHua Street, however, is still a specialist wholesale street for traders in tea, herbs, Chinese medicines and other traditional goods.
One of the famous tea families who immigrated from Anxi in Fujian, China more than a century ago is the Wang Xio-
jin family. In 1907 Mr. Wang Xio-jin, second generation of Wang You-ji Tea Company in Xiamen, set up Wang’s Tea
Refinery Factory on ChongQing North Road (No. 26, Lane 64,
set up a life or business in Taiwan and the association would offer
help and assistance of all kinds,
such as temporary lodging, job placement and medical assistance.
The association was therefore often referred to as the “Tea Merchant’s Sea Goddess.”
In the 1950 and 1960 the wholesale
40 TheWorldofTea.com
LEFT: One of the Wang family’s tea stores on Di Hua Street. RIGHT: Wang De Chuan, Fine Chinese Tea since 1862. One of the many Wang tea stores with the eye-catching red tea canisters. This store is at the basement of Taipei 101.
Sec. 2). Today Wangs’ Tea
enjoys
world
recognition established by
third
generation
Mr. Wang Qin-jun who Jackson Huang, President of ABC Tea and former chairman of the Taiwan Tea Manufacturer’s Association, is guiding the tour and points to what was once the Danshuei River. “Now you can only close your eyes and remember the past” says Huang.
dedicated his life to his passion for tea. Wangs’
Tea Enterprise Co. on
ChongQing North Road is still run by the Wang
family. The second floor,
which used to be where the
female
workers
The old tea district in Taipei (courtesy of Taipei Tea Merchants Association)
separated the tea, is now
a cultural studio and the company welcomes guided tours to show the history of tea through interaction and displays
of the company’s artifacts. Several other members of the Wang family have tea stores in Taipei.
Other old tea houses to look for in the old Dadaocheng tea
district are the Jing Hou Teashop on Chongqing North Road
fold the papers for the old way of wrapping Pouchong teas (“Demonstration of Pouchong Paper Wrapping,” page 16). At
Hui Mei Shou Teashop on the northern part of NingXia Road (115) you may meet Mr. Jackson Huang who is an influential
and the spacious Xinfangchun Teashop on MinSheng West Road guided by Senior Tea Master Wang Guozhong. On the
corner of MinSheng West Road and HuanHe North Road is the old Wang Jin-jhen Teashop. At the Jing Hou Tea Store near NingXia Road you can be lucky to find retired Tea Master Wang who would be delighted to show you how to skillfully
LEFT: Li Qunsheng Memorial Church. Merchant Li Quncheng was an important figure in the Taiwan tea industry and after his death the customs house on GuiDe Street was made into a memorial church for him.
ABOVE: Although it is congested, Di Hua Street is still a specialist wholesale street for traders in tea, herbs, Chinese medicines and other traditional goods. BELOW: One of the wholesale/retail stores on Di Hua Street.
English-speaking tea merchant and senior tea
master with a wealth of knowledge about tea in Taiwan. Mr. Huang is a senior advisor to the Taiwan Tea Manufacturers Association and has been involved in the family tea business for a life-time.
While you are on Chong Qing North Road make sure to visit the Chaoiang Tealeaf Park between Lane 64 and 70, Sec. 2. The park used to be a
warehouse in Dadaocheng where tea traders
would store the raw tea they just bought. In 2003
Taipei City established the first tea industry theme park in Taipei. It has marble pathways in the park with carved tea producing flows. The park is in a beautiful environment with parking
in the basement and many teashops on both sides.
Wherever you go in the old Dadaocheng tea
district you will find a plethora of teashops and tea stores old and new among each other.
Taiwanese people are very proud of their teas and the owners will be happy to have you sit and taste a cup of their teas.
Taipei Tea Heritage Walking Tours are offered by the Taipei Tea Merchants Association;
www.taipeitea.org.tw/promote0511/index. html, tel. 886-2-2555-7598.
Above and Right: In the late 1800s the Taipei Tea Merchants Association’s building was a gigantic and spectacular mansion and the first stop for many immigrants and foreign merchants.
42 TheWorldofTea.com
Cold Steeping vs. Iced Tea Cold steeping is not an invention that the Taiwanese have come up with recently, although they may have popularized cold tea steeping again. The 1884 Boston Cooking School Cook Book by Mrs. D.A. Lincoln explains that, “If cold or lukewarm water be used in making tea, the thein [today known as caffeine], or nitrogenous substance, will not be obtained.” So Mrs. Lincoln knew 125 years ago that if she wanted a cup with less caffeine, she would cold brew it. Cold brewing is very easy. Add a teaspoon of tea leaves per cup in a jar and fill it with filtered water. Leave it in the fridge for 2-4 hours. Strain before serving. Many good quality teas can be re-steeped, although the consecutive steepings may be a little lighter in flavor. It is recommended to give the tealeaves a quick rinse before leaving them in the fridge. It will wash away tea dust and any impurities. In 1860 a writer for Horace Greely’s Tribune, Solon Robinson,
In today’s society where healthy living is in focus, studies
tea iced, and really thought it better than when hot.” An
caffeine in a cup of tea. A study by Yang et al. in Taichung,
published a small volume, How to Live. In it appeared the sentence, “Last summer we got in the habit of taking the article in the Herald of Health published in New York in
1869 pessimistically revealed that, “Iced tea is now coming
into use in the hot summer months; but this is an eccentric innovation, not likely very soon to become a common custom.”
have been made on hot vs. cold steeping methods in order to disclose which method holds the most antioxidants and
Taiwan, July 2007 reveals that tea prepared with cold water (77°F for 2 hours or 39°F for 4 hours) contains lower amounts
of caffeine, reduced bitterness, and higher aroma. An Italian
study by Venditti et al from
September 2009 indicates
Cook books from the 1870s
that whether tea (white,
published recipes about iced tea
green, oolong or black)
– green or black, although the
is steeped in hot or cold
New York Times claims in 1961
(room temperature) water
that iced tea was first served in
the total phenol content
1904 at the St. Louis World Fair
and antioxidant activity are
by Richard Blechynden at the
not significantly different,
East India pavilion. Even earlier,
except for cold steeping of
in the 1840s, iced tea was popular
Pai Mu Tan (white peony
in Russia, where travelers to St.
the way the Russians cooled all
their drinks – water, wine, beer and tea, “substituting for
a lump of sugar a similar portion of ice” as distinguished travel-writer Johann Georg Kohl quoted in 1842. Russian tea – hot or iced with sugar and lemon slices - called “Tea a la Russe” was popular among Americans in the 1870s.
The brewing method for iced tea at that time was to hot brew a strong tea, store it at a cool place and add ice cubes
when served; or alternatively hot brew it and immediately after pour it over ice cubes. In recent years, especially in
the summer, cold water steeping has become a new popular method in Taiwan for tea making.
higher values with cold steeping.
So for health
reasons it doesn’t really matter how the tea is steeped. But, if you are looking for a cup with less caffeine, higher aroma and less bitterness, cold steeping is a good choice.
ResourceS
Petersburg were fascinated by
tea) which has significantly
“Effects of different steeping methods and storage on caffeine, catechins and gallic acid in bag tea infusions,” Yang DJ, Hwang LS, Lin JT, Department of Health Diet and Restaurant Management, Chung Shan Medical University, Taichung, Taiwan, Journal of Chromatography Jul. 13, 2007 Vol. 1156(1-2) pp. 312-20. “Hot vs. cold water steeping of different teas: Do they affect antioxidant activity?” Elisabetta Venditti, Tiziana Bacchetti, Luca Tiano, Patricia Carloni, Lucedio Grechi, Elisabetta Damiani, Italy, Food Chemistry 119 (2010) 15971604 The Boston Cooking School Cook Book, Mrs. D.A. Lincoln, 1884, p. 112.
TheWorldofTea.com 43
Tea Museums in Taiwan The Pinglin Tea Industry Museum The tea museum in Pinglin is named the World’s Largest Tea Museum. It opened in January 1997 after eight years of creation and is located in the green hills along the Peishih Stream in Pinglin, Taipei County just about an hour from Taipei City. Pinglin is located in the Wen Mountains where the famous fragrant Wenshan pouchong tea is harvested. The museum houses an exhibition hall, a theme hall, a multimedia hall, a tea art hall, and a promotion center. The exhibition hall displays traditional tea producing equipment and exhibits show the varieties of tea and how they are processed. On its 2.7 hectares of exhibits the museum incorporates live demonstrations and 3-D simulations of traditional tea processing covering the thousand year history of tea making and the different types of tea through the dynasties. The museum’s tea house offers tastings of the local pouchong teas. The museum also has a Chinese style garden with traditional Chinese buildings. The museum offers a pamphlet in English and usually an English speaking guide, however, it is recommended to call in advance - (02) 665-7251 (Admission fee). Pinglin is surrounded by forested hills and is so small that most of its commerce is found on one main road where small factories oxidize, dry and package the fragrant and precious pouchong tea which is sold by neighboring tea shops to tea enthusiastic visitors. Each shop offers a variety of tea utensils and accessories to properly brew cups of excellent Taiwan teas and you may find specialties such as tea candy, moji (a Japanese tea flavored sweet meat), and tea oil, a concentrate from tea seeds with a rich and subtle flavor used for special dishes.
Lu Gu Township Tea Culture Museum
Lu Gu Township is located in Nantou County, the only county in Taiwan not bordering the sea. This county is the most productive tea county in Taiwan with more than 8,000 hectares of tea plantations. Lu Gu is famous for the production of Dong Ding oolong tea and has been producing tea since the 1850s. Lu Gu means ‘deer valley’ named after its many Taiwanese deer in earlier times. Lu Gu is the largest tea producing township in Taiwan and welcomes tea tourists to stay in resorts while learning about tea at seminars and at tours through
44 TheWorldofTea.com
the tea plantations. Many of the old buildings are preserved and this is one of the only areas in Taiwan where you can still find traditional home-style tea houses. The Tea Culture Museum is operated by The Farmer’s Association of Lu Gu township. It displays the history of tea and the development of the tea industry in Taiwan. The Farmer’s Association also arranges tea competitions among the local tea farmers.
Tea Museum in Kuansi
The Ten Ren Tea Culture Museum was established in June 2006 by the Ten Ren Group with the purpose of increasing awareness about Taiwan’s precious tea culture and high quality tea manufacturing. The museum has more than 6,000 square feet that display the interactive learning concept, “Discovering Taiwan’s Uniqueness,” through sight, sound, touch and taste. Adjacent to the museum is the Ten Ren Tea Garden, the Ten Ren Retail Store, the Ten Ren Tea Factory, and the restaurant “Cha For Tea.” Exhibits teach about tea drinking customs among different Chinese cultures throughout history. The Ten Ren Tea Culture Museum is located at the boundary where Hsinchu City and Miaoli County meet at 422 Zhonghua Road in Jhunan Township, Miaoli County and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 6 pm. Admission is free. Tel. (037) 696-718.
Museum section of TRES in Yangmei
Ten Ren Tea Culture Museum
This museum is located inside The Formosa Black Tea Co., Ltd. on 73 Chung-Shan (Jhongshan) Road, Kuansi (Guansi) in Hsinchu County. The company has been in existence since 1937 and Managing director, Mr. ChingShih Lou proudly gives tours through the artifacts from the company’s history. They have a special collection of stencils that were used to mark the tea crates for export. Tel: (03) 587-2018. The Taiwan Research & Extension Station (TRES) in Yangmei, Taoyuan has a great collection of old tea machinery and other artifacts from the tea industry in Taiwan. Posters and exhibit counters are arranged to teach visitors about the developments in the tea manufacturing industry throughout Taiwan’s history of tea. TRES is located at 324, Chung-Hsing Road, Yangmei, Taoyuan County. Tel. (03)482-4723.
The Taiwanese tea farmers and manufacturers are proud of the history of manufacturing teas through their many years of hard work and special care for the tea bushes and for what they have today. They gladly show you artifacts of old machinery and tools from the family heritage. While traveling through the island of Taiwan you will also be able to visit a few museums that are specially designated to tea.
National Palace Museum in Taipei
If you are interested in tea ware and porcelain, the National Palace Museum in Taipei is worth a visit. 221 Chih-Shan Rd, Sec. 2, Shih-Lin, Taipei. Tel. (02) 2881-2021. Resources: www.sinica.edu.tw/tit/museums/0397_Tea.html www.teafromtaiwan.com/LuGu_Township.htm www.tenren.com.tw/museum www.npm.gov.tw
TheWorldofTea.com 45
GaBa Tea
– a Japanese and Taiwanese Health Secret? Just when you thought you knew all about
the various teas, there is yet another one to explore. GaBa tea is not about the leaves or origin,
but about the processing
to enhance the gamma-
body to inhibit the firing of
amino butyric acid by
neurons to the brain. GaBa
exposing tea leaves to
sends slow down messages
nitrogen gas during the
to the brain, heart, spinal
oxidation process. In the
cord, lungs, and kidneys.
Asian world GaBa tea is
This human enzyme is
reduce anxiety, lower
relaxing and
calming abilities.
The method of producing
GaBa tea was accidentally discovered by Japanese scientists in 1987 while they were researching
for a natural method to preserve food products. from
their
research indicated that
tea leaves that are exposed to
nitrogen
anaerobic
46 TheWorldofTea.com
believed to naturally
a
Results
Acid
that has been processed
produced by the human
GaBa tea’s inhibitory function causes the muscles that line the blood vessels to relax, while the blood flow is increased and may therefore decrease high blood pressure and prevent hypertension. Increasing the alpha brain waves may help reduce anxiety, phobias and fears, relief stress, and calm you down. It is believed to stimulate mental alertness and help you focus. GaBa tea may also help against motion sickness (by sea, air, or car), hangover, improve learning performance and memory, and improve sleep quality.*
Butyric
cha in Chinese) is a tea
amino acid that is naturally
its anti-stress, anti-anxiety,
Amino
in Japanese, jin bai long
Amino Butyric Acid. It is an
natural tranquilizer with
the naturally occurring amino acid, Gamma-
GaBa tea (Gabaron cha
GaBa is short for Gamma-
considered
process dramatically increase the level of (GaBa).
method.
therefore
instead of oxygen/fresh air during the drying
(under
conditions)
blood-pressure, and to improve the blood
flow aiding athletic performance.*
GaBa tea is still most popular in Japan and is used as part of a healthy diet. Some schools
serve GaBa tea to students to stimulate mental alertness. No side effects are known and the tea seems to be non-addictive.
In Taiwan the Japanese Gabaron method is used to make GaBa Oolong tea by exposing the fresh tea leaves to a nitrogen rich environment before oxidizing the tea. GaBa tea can technically be made of any tea but is mostly seen as GaBa jade or fancy oolong tea or GaBa pouchong tea.
GaBa tea is usually made with high grade
Suggested health benefits of GaBa tea* tea which has a higher glutamic acid level
found that GaBa tea
• Helps you slow down
into GaBa, the leaves on the tea bushes are
GaBa but a lower
• Increases mental alertness
epigallocatechin
• Prevents hypertension
to possible health
• Improves sleep quality
between both GaBa
• Avoid GaBa-tea if you are pregnant (first three
than lower grade teas. To further increase the glutamic acid level, which is what is converted
shaded for ten to fifteen days before harvest. Since a high level of GaBa is found in the stems, these should also be included.
The freshly plucked tea leaves are placed in stainless steel vacuum drums and the oxygen is removed and replaced with nitrogen (a
molecular inert gas) to which the leaves are
exposed for about eight to ten hours. The temperature should be kept above 40˚C (104˚F)
and the pH environment at 5.8 to produce the highest concentration of natural GaBa.
While GaBa tea is almost unknown in the Western world, Taiwan is an important supplier of GaBa tea to Japan.
Since the discovery of GaBa tea in 1987 other studies have been made to explain the effects
of GaBa tea. In the 2000s several studies on
health benefits of green tea have discussed
that one of the unique components in tea, the amino acid L-theanine, in combination with
natural caffeine in tea, stimulate the production of alpha brain waves, relax the nerves and
produce a calming and soothing sensation while helping you focus. The added nitrogen process, which is said to increase the natural
levels of GaBa up to ten times and thereby
increasing the alpha brain waves accordingly,
may be why GaBa tea has such an increased effect on the stimulation and relaxation. A
Taiwanese study published in Food Chemistry in July 2006 by Wang et al compared the
bioactive components in GaBa to green tea and
had a significantly
• Relieves stress
amount of catechins
• Helps you stay focused and concentrated
gallate).
• Helps against motion sickness
higher amount of
• Reduces anxiety, phobias and fears
(epicatechin
• Decreases blood pressure
and
Since
catechins are linked
• Improves learning performance and memory
be wise to alternate
reduces hangovers
benefits of tea, it may
• Reduces alcohol intoxication and prevents/
and green tea.*
months), have kidney failure or hypotension
Japanese standards require 100 gram of
GaBa tea to contain at least 150 mg GaBa.
The original Japanese GaBa study can be found
in Agric. Biol. Chem., 51 (11), 2865~2871, 1987. The research paper is titled, “Conversion of Glutamic Acid to y-Aminobutyric Acid in Tea
Leaves under Anaerobic Conditions” by Tojiro Tsushida and Toshinobu Murai at the National
Research Institute of Tea, Kanaya, Haibara, Shizuoka 428, Japan, dated March 30, 1987.
* These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. Products mentioned are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any diseases.
References:
GaBa Tea – The Japanese Secret, by Paul Dickson, www.articlegarden.com/Article/GABA-Tea--The-Japanese-Secret/15480. Comparison of bioactive components in GABA tea and green tea produced in Taiwan, by Wang, Hsueh Fang, Tsai, Yung Sheng, Lin, Mu Lien, and Ou, Andi Shau-mei, smou@dragon.nchu.edu. tw, Food Chemistry; Jul2006, Vol. 96 Issue 4, p648-653, 6p. GaBa Tea Helps Sleep by Tsun-Chi Cheng, Jui-Feng Tsai, The Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine, July 2009 (15(7): 697-698. Old age’s mental slowdown may be reversible, by Shaoni Bhattacharva, New Scientist, May 2003 (vol 300, p 812).
TheWorldofTea.com 47
How to make pearl bubble milk tea: Step 1: brown sugar syrup 2 parts white sugar, 1 part brown sugar and 3 parts water. Bring the water to a boil in a sauce pan and add sugars. Let the sugars dissolve at low heat. Remove from heat and let cool.
Step 2: tapioca pearls
(Dried tapioca pearls can be found in Asian supermarkets.)
Pour dried tapioca pearls into boiling water in a pot on the stove while constantly stirring. (The pearls expand during cooking, so use plenty of water.) When the pearls rise to the surface, cover the pot and let them cook on low heat for 20-30 min, stirring
occasionally. Turn off the heat and let the pearls rest in the hot water for another 20-30 min. Stir occasionally. Pour the pearls through a colander and rinse with cool water until the water
runs clearly. Gently shake off excess water and pour pearls into a bowl. Add enough brown sugar syrup to cover the pearls. Gently stir to coat the pearls. Use immediately in pearl bubble milk tea, or keep covered in refrigerator for a few days.
Step 3: pearl bubble milk tea 3 oz tapioca pearls Brown sugar syrup (according to taste) 1 cup brewed tea (black, green, or oolong) 1 cup milk Ice cubes Let the tea cool. Mix syrup, tea, milk and ice cubes in a cocktail shaker (or blender) and shake well. Pour tapioca pearls into a tall serving glass and add shaken mixture. Serve pearl bubble milk tea with a thick straw.
bubble tea When you walk in the busy streets of Taipei you will see interesting small colorful stores offering cold drinks, called bubble tea or pearl milk tea. They look nothing like the old-fashioned tea houses or wholesale tea stores, but are more similar to a fast food or convenience store. Bubble tea is to a Taiwanese what Starbucks or Dunkin Donuts is to an American. And it is not just in Taiwan that bubble tea stores are popping up. They have rapidly spread in Asia to Mainland China, Hong Kong, Macao, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam, and
the Philippines and to Australia, Canada and the U.S. Just in California more than a hundred places serve bubble tea, and New York City already has several bubble tea shops. The first bubble tea was officially served in 1983 – the same year as the first packaged tea beverage was introduced in Taiwan (see page 32). At a teahouse in Taichung in west-central Taiwan called Chun Shui Tang a new tea experiment called bubble tea immediately became very popular among its customers. It was a cold black tea drink sweetened with brown sugar syrup. The drink was mixed in a shaker which created fine foam on the top, hence the name bubble tea. The founder of the teahouse, Liu Han-chieh got the inspiration to the bubble tea from tea study travels in Osaka, Japan where he saw cold coffee made in cocktail shakers. The following year Liu added chilled oolong tea to the menu and was the first teahouse in Taiwan to serve iced tea drinks from black, oolong, green, and pu’erh teas. Liu encouraged his staff to be creative with the drinks and in the mid1980s Lin Hsiu-hui, a manager of one of the Chun Sui Tang teahouses, added fen yuan – small black chewy balls or pearls from tapioca (starch from the cassava root) – into a cold tea drink with milk. The response from the customers was positive and in 1987 the teahouse officially launched a new product called “pearl bubble milk tea.” The popular bubble tea has many names and can be found as Boba tea/ drink/iced tea, zhen zhou nai cha (pearl milk tea), pearl tea/shake, tapioca ball tea, and QQ (which means chewy in Taiwanese). The name bubble tea originates from the bubbles on the top of the drink after shaking it; pearl tea is from the tapioca pearls/balls (boba) that are added. Bubble tea is very popular among young people. To make the drinks appealing, different flavors and colors of syrup is used as well as colorful cups and unique fat straws to suck up the tapioca pearls with.
TheWorldofTea.com 49
Lei cha
photos by Jackson Ver Steeg jackson.typepad.com
Lei cha means pounded tea and is a traditional Hakka
beverage based on tea and a mix of other ingredients. Dry tea leaves are ground – or pounded – together with roasted nuts, seeds, and grains. It is a savory drink but sugar or salt can be added for taste. Lei cha is enjoyed for breakfast or on
cold winter days for its healthy benefits. Although lei cha
can be bought commercially pre-packaged it is traditionally made from scratch right before consumed.
Any tea can be used for lei cha, but mostly oolong
or green tea leaves are used. Matcha (green tea powder) is sometimes used for convenience. Traditional ingredients are roasted peanuts, mung beans, and sesame, but other
ingredients such as cooked or puffed rice, roasted soybeans,
lentils, lotus seeds, pine nuts, pumpkin or sunflower seeds, wheat, mint leaves and other herbs e.g. coriander and basil are also used for lei cha.
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The ingredients are pounded with a wooden pestle
in a ceramic mortar (or ground in a food processor or blender) until the all ingredients are reduced to a powder. The powder is mixed with hot water and stirred until it
becomes a soup like, nourishing beverage. Lei cha is often served with rice and cooked vegetables.
The legend about lei cha dates back to the war
time of the Qing Dynasty. Troops were engaged in long fights and were hit by the plague. An old herbal medicine
practitioner taught the soldiers to collect herbs from the area, grind them with nuts, grains, tea and ginger and cook
them into a concoction that was taken with rice. The story tells that the beverage did wonders and revived the soldiers to eventually win the war.
Tea and Food
The wonderful aroma of oolong teas makes a great addition to many foods. Tea leaves or tea liquor can be added to soups, stews, stir fries, and baked dishes. Some of the famous tea delicacies in Taiwan are the marbled tea eggs and tea jelly which both make great snacks or appetizers.
Marbled Tea Eggs 12 eggs 5 g black tea leaves, e.g. Assam (~4 tsp) 5 g oolong tea leaves, e.g. Fancy Oolong (~8 tsp) 2 whole star anise or 1 tsp anise seeds 1 stick cinnamon 1 tsp black pepper 2 tsp salt (4 tbsp soy sauce – optional) 3 cups of water for the spice mix Hard boil the eggs (approx 6 min. if added to boiling water) and set a them aside (do not peel them). Combine all the other ingredients in saucepan and bring the mix to a full boil. Add the boiled eggs. Gently tap each egg with the back of a metal spoon until they are cracked all over (the more cracks, the more marbled the eggs will be). Bring to a
boil and let the eggs simmer in the mix for about 30 min. Drain and peel the eggs. Serve them hot or cold. (PS. The used tea mix and egg shells can be used in your compost for organic and sustainable living.)
Oolong Tea Jelly Tea jelly is easily made and can be a refreshing snack on a hot day. Depending on the gelatin available, prepare the jelly according to the recipe on the package. Use unflavored gelatin and half the amount of gelatin used for fruit juice blocks. Use a good tasting oolong and brew it with a bit more tea leaves than for drinking the tea.
2 envelopes unflavored (KNOX) gelatin (1/2 oz, 14 g) 1 cup cold water 3 cups hot brewed oolong tea (use a bit more tealeaves than for drinking, infuse 3-4 min.) Add a little sugar, honey or agave nectar according to taste - optional. (Tea jelly made with good tea can be very nice unsweetened) Sprinkle the gelatin powder over the cold water in a large bowl or 4+ cup jar and let it stand a minute. Add the hot oolong tea and stir thoroughly until the gelatin is completely dissolved. Add sweetener if desired. Pour the mix into serving cups and refrigerate until the jelly is firm (2-3 hours).
Taiwan’s Five Branches of the
Tea Research and Extension Station Taiwan’s only tea research institute, the
Tea Research and Extension Station (TRES)
was founded by the Japanese in 1903 during
the Japanese colonial time. It was named
Tea Manufacture Experiment Station and was
governed by the Production Bureau of the Formosa
Governor-General’s Office. The institute continued
to operate after the Republic of China government
took over in 1945. In 1968 it was reorganized as
Taiwan Tea Experiment Station (TTES) and four
branches, Wenshan, Yuchih, Taitung, and Dung Ding
were added. The institute was reorganized again in
1999 and became an institute under the governmental
Council of Agriculture (COA). In 2003, 100 years after its
foundation, the institute was renamed the Tea Research and Extension Station (TRES).
Research and Extension Achievements Reported by TRES, Yangmei (http://kminter.ttes.gov.tw/teais/internet/interneteng/main.jsp)
1. 18 registered tea cultivars released and extended to farmers Station is located in Pusin near Yangmei, covering an area of 2. Genetic characteristics and survey of distribution and ecology of Taiwan wild tea trees 20 hectares. This is one of the major tea growing regions in 3. Introduced, improved and established mechanical Taiwan. The station is responsible for research, development, and plucking techniques promotion of Taiwan tea, as well as providing education, training 4. Improved nursery systems for tea cuttings 5. Developed biological control techniques, and pest & and information to local tea farmers. The station is equipped with pesticide residue monitoring systems excellent research and farming facilities and organizes regular 6. Ecological approach to organic tea management training programs, lectures, workshops, demonstrations, and 7. Establishment of slope land conservation demonstration tea farm in the TRES to strengthen tea growers’ soil & water conservation concepts to upgrade farmers’ related techniques in tea farm conservation 8. Development of tea manufacturing machinery and automatic refining equipments 9. R & D on techniques of tea extraction, concentration, freezing granulation and anticaking effect of instant tea 10. R & D on the extracting technique of crude catechins 11. R & D and extension of diverse tea products 12. Periodically conducting training and workshops on production and marketing to increase tea quality. Conducting tea fairs, tea art and cultural activities to promote tea sales, trying to increase farmers’ incomes
The Taoyuan County branch of the Tea Research and Extension
for
tea
exhibitions
growers.
The
Professional Tea Assessment Master Examination is
one of the educational programs offered by TRES to local
farmers. The station also promotes organic farming, soil
and water conservation and environmentally sound pest
control techniques to protect the environment and assure
the safety of local tea products. It is the only professional
institution dedicated to the testing and study of tea in Taiwan
and is well-known to leading tea production regions throughout the world.
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In order to attract more visitors and to promote the local
tourism industry, the station is planning to construct a tea museum in which both local visitors and those from overseas will be introduced to teas from different regions
of the island. Some tea artifacts are already on display in the basement of the main building (see page 45).
The TRES, Yuchih Branch is located at the northern edge of scenic Sun Moon Lake on the Maolan Mountain at an
elevation of 1,020 meters (3,346 ft). Inside the research station is an old wooden building that used to be a teaprocessing plant back in the Japanese occupation. There are also some old Japanese-style houses that were used as dormitories for the station. They are designated as a historic site by the county government.
The TRES, Dung Ding is a smaller branch located in Lugu and specializes in helping the farmers in the Dung Ding district and Minjien (Sunpokeng) district.
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Tea Research and Extension Station, Yangmei Branch 324, Chung-Hsing Road, Yangmei, Taoyuan County, Taiwan Tel: 886-(03)482-4723, email: ttes18@gsn.gov.tw Tea Research and Extension Station, Yuchih Branch No.13, Lane 270, Jhongshan Rd., Yuchih Township, Nantou County, Taiwan Tea Research and Extension Station, Wenshan Branch Pinglin, Wenshan, Taipei County, Taiwan, tres503@ttes.gov.tw Tea Research and Extension Station, Taitung Branch 66, Beier Road, Longtian Village, Luye Township, Taitung County, Taiwan, Tel: 89-551446, taitung004@ttes.gov.tw Tea Research and Extension Station, Dung Ding Branch
Resources and further readings: Taiwan Review, Vol. 59, No. 5 May, 2009 http://taiwanreview.nat.gov.tw http://en.swcb.gov.tw/07outdoor/outdoor_01.asp?id=93 www.sunmoonlake.gov.tw/EN/03000574.aspx
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Taiwan Oolong Study Tours For any tea enthusiast the possibility of visiting a country of origin – a tea growing country – is a dream come true. Ambassador of Taiwan tea, Thomas Shu, owner of ABC Tea in Baldwin Park, CA and his wife, Josephine Pan, founder of Organic Teas Only, San Marino, CA have made it possible to study oolong teas in depth during study tours supported by the Taiwan Tea Manufacturers Association in Taiwan. During the study tours students learn hands-on how to actually process teas from leaf on the bush to sipping in the cup. The first study tour took place in October 2008; the second from which much of this publication is based was in June 2009, and a third tour is scheduled for October 2010.
Participants in the 2009 study tour:
Kirsten Kristensen, Tea 4 U, LLC (Ocean, NJ, USA) Robert Krul, CTC Brewt Corporation (Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada) Cory Krul, Cornelia Bean Ltd. (Winnipeg, MB, Canada) Ken Rudee, Barnes & Watson Fine Teas (Mercer Island, WA, USA) Richard and Richy Sakuma, Sakuma Bros. Farms Inc., (Burlington, WA, USA) Greg Smith, Student (Carrboro, NC. USA) Elise Scott, Pearl Fine Teas (Washington D.C. USA) Josephine Pan, Organic Teas Only, Inc. (San Marino, CA. USA) Thomas Shu, ABC Tea, (Baldwin Park, CA. USA)
Sponsor: Taiwan Tea Manufacturers Association (TTMA) Representatives from TTMA: Norman Shu, Chairman Ted Fan, Secretary General Jackson Huang, Senior Advisor David Liao, Advisor
I would like to thank the representatives of TTM A for providing us with such a wealth of tea knowledge and all the participants for great cam araderie and for sharing the mo st wonderful and unforgettable experie nces – in search for the perfect cup of tea! Kirsten
Tea 4 U, LLC The World of Tea, editor
For more information about the Taiwan Oolong Study Tours, please contact Josephine Pan at jpanjpan@gmail.com, tel. (626) 793-8588.
Tea Publications related to Taiwan Tea The Art of Tea Published by Wu-Shing Books 4 F-1, No. 66 Jioucyuan St., Datong District, Taipei City 103, Taiwan ROC Tel. 886.2.2596.0486, Fax. 886.2.2585.7658 Available in the U.S. at TEAroma, www.tearoma.us, asktearoma@gmail.com
Chinese-English Tea Studies Terminology In January, 2010 the Lu-Yu Tea Culture Institute Publications Department published the ”Chinese-English Tea Terminology” edited by Tsai, Rong-Tsang and Steven R. Jones. In order to correctly translate tea studies terminology it is important that the translator has the fundamental knowledge of both languages and tea. Since 2005 the editors have worked diligently together to properly define the terminology. Copies of the publication are available at The Lu Yu Tea Culture Institute, luyutea@ms59.hinet.net or contact Steven Jones, icetea8@gmail.com for more information. Photo and text permission by Steven R. Jones, http://teaarts.blogspot.com/2010/02/title-chinese-english-tea-studies.html
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Taiwan Tea Manufacturers Association (TTMA) 10F, 165 Nanking West Road, Taipei, Taiwan Tel. 886-2-2558-6251 www.taiwantea.org.tw Email: twtea@ms65.hinet.net Chairman: Norman C. Shu Secretary: Ted Fan
The Taiwan Tea Manufacturers Association was founded in 1954 with the mission to assist its members in marketing their products and to organize missions to attend overseas trade shows, mainly in Japan and the U.S., to promote Taiwan teas. Together with the Council of Agriculture (COA) TTMA arranges the annual Taiwan International Tea Expo in Taipei with the purpose to introduce Taiwan tea culture and domestically produced teas, and other related products. TTMA publishes a monthly magazine to keep its members up to date with the latest trends in the tea industry.
Tea associations in Taiwan Taipei Tea Merchants Association 6F, 24 Gangu Street, Taipei City Tel: 886 -2- 2555-7598 www.taipeitea.org.tw Email: taitea@ms32.hinet.net
Lu Yu Tea Culture Institute Ten Ren Building, 3rd floor 64, Heng-Yang Road Tel 02.2331.6636, ext 9
Ask for Steven R. Jones (瓊斯史迪芬), Tea Master (English speaking)
The Lu Yu Tea Culture Institute was founded in Taipei in 1980 by Professor Tsai Rong-Tsang to promote education about various aspects of cha dao (the way of tea) and to refine the Chinese tea culture. The institute has been a leader in research, systemization and development of tea equipment and tea brewing techniques. It is located on the third floor of the Ten Ren Tea company building. The institute administers the Lu Yu Tea Master examination that includes both a practical skills test and a written test. For the written test a passing grade of 70% is required and students must demonstrate comprehensive knowledge of teas, tea ware and tea lore. In the practical 12-parts skills test students must demonstrate their ability to brew a variety of teas in different quantities and identify teas by color, aroma and flavor.
Director General Mr. Fan De-guang Opening Hours: Every 2nd & 4th Saturday 9:00 am ~12:00 pm.
Taipei Tea Merchants Association was established in 1889 and is the oldest association in Taiwan that witnessed the historic prime time of Taiwan tea exports. The association possesses many precious historical documents of Taiwan’s tea era, such as the international first prize awards won at the World Expositions at the beginning of the 1900s for export of Taiwan oolong tea. The association is devoted to promote tea culture.
Taiwan Tea Exporters Association (TTE) 24 Kanku Street, Taipei 103, Taiwan Tel.: +882-2-2555-2962 Email: taitea@ms32.hinet.net
The Taiwan Tea Exporters Association was established in 1951 with the mission to promote common benefits for its members and to support them in developing quality, innovation and international competitiveness. Today TTE has more than 79 industry members, many of which are well established and reputable Taiwan manufacturers. TTE has recorded significant achievements from its many years of research and development, focusing on product quality, packaging, and design. Moreover, traditional Taiwan teas have been given a modern, new life thanks to reinvention, industry research, and innovation. TTE assists its members in attending international tea shows, and helps finding new international markets while strengthening ties with industry counterparts.
Tea words in Chinese & English pronunciation
Chinese pronunciation (pinyin)
Chinese characters
Taiwan
taiwan
臺灣 or 台灣
Formosa
福爾摩沙
Tea
chá
茶
Green tea
lyù chá
绿茶
Pouchong (wrapped kind)
bāozhòng
包種
Oolong (black dragon)
wūlóng
烏龍
Red oolong tea
hóng wūlóng chá
紅烏龍茶
Black tea (Chinese: red tea)
hóng chá
紅茶
White tip oolong (white hair)
bai hao wūlóng
白毫烏龍
Oriental Beauty
dōng fāng meǐ rén
東方美人
“Tea with 5 colors” (Oriental Beauty)
wu se chá
五色茶
Bragger’s Tea or Puff Tea
pong fong cha or pom fong cha
椪風茶 or 膨風茶
Jade
yu
翠玉
Linxi mountain Dong Ding (Tung Ting) (frozen summit or ice peak) Mount ali
shan lin xi
杉林溪
dòng dǐng
凍頂 or 冻顶
ali shan
阿里山
Mount li (pear’s mountain)
li shan
梨山
Rueifang
rueifang
瑞芳
Muzha
muzha, mucha, mujha
木柵
Taipei
taipei
台北
Mount wen
wenshan
文山
Spring green snail tea
pi lo chun chá
碧螺春茶
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use this glossary to read tea packages -can you read these?
English Pounded tea
léi chá
擂茶
Iron Goddess of Mercy (cultivar)
tiě guān yīn, ti kuan yin
鐵觀音
Tender Heart (cultivar)
chin sin, shin sin, qing xin jin shuan, jin xuan, chin hsuan, gin suan, jin hsuen tsui yu szjichun, se ji chun, si ji chun, si chi chun fo shou hóng chá, da yeh wūlóng
青心
hóng yui chá
紅玉茶
High mountain tea
gao shan chá (kao shan chá)
高山茶
Roasted oolong
hong pei
炭焙烏龍
Aged oolong
lao wūlóng
陳年烏龍
Tea brick
zhūan chá
磚茶 or 砖茶
Bird’s nest
tuó chá
沱茶
Compressed tea
jǐnyā chá
緊壓茶 or 紧压茶
Bubble (milk) tea
boba nai chá
波霸奶茶
Bubble tea (w. black tea)
pào mò hóng chá
泡沫紅茶
Bubble tea (w. green tea)
pào mò lyù chá
泡沫綠茶
Pearl milk tea
zhen zhu nai chá
珍珠奶茶
Pounded tea
lei chá
擂茶
Citrus tea
suan gang tea
酸柑茶
Jasmine tea
moli chá gabaron chá (Japanese) jin bai long chá (Chinese) or jia yeh
莉花茶
Golden Lily (cultivar) Kingfisher Jade (cultivar) Four Seasons Spring (cultivar) Buddha’s Palm, Big Leaf oolong (cultivar) “Ruby” black tea (cultivar)
GaBa tea
金萱 翠玉 四季春 佛手
佳葉龍茶
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