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cute & crafty

neW wave

PATTERNS TO HOOK NOW!

Glam up winter wear Bee my baby

Super sweet hexie blanket

Crochet + Cross stitch

Combine crafts for stunning home makes


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N AT U R A L S

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Pewter 838

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FOR MORE INFORMATION AND YOUR NEAREST STOCKIST VISIT

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Looking for your first 2018 project? Your search is officially over. Try on-trend cross stitch home makes, a cosy lace cardigan, or bright hats and accessories. We’ll be making this sweet honeycomb blanket. It’s the perfect choice for brand new arrivals, or you could just keep it for yourself… Bees are having a bit of a moment, after all.


Clementine mandala, p85 ISSUE SIXTY-FIVE

CONTENTS

26

Psst

DarLing DraPe

Hook a lacy cadi with a stunning bode

StyLish Home P20

ExcIting CroChet IdeAs to InsPire you 14 CROSS STITCH HOMEWARES 25 PUFF STITCH MITTS 26 WATERFALL CARDI 36 AMIGURUMI LION 41 EMBELLISH AN OUTFIT 44 SCALLOPED EDGE SWEATER

win

check out ou Tun to page 59 and u could deigne challenge – yo win DY Choice yan!

51 CHEVRON HAT & SCARF 54 BABY BEE BLANKET 56 BARGELLO BAG 59 HOOK TO HOOK 65 BRAIDED HAT 81 PARTY BAG 85 MAKE A MANDALA

TweEd YarNs P74


56

41

65 braiDed haT

44

25

54 Good ReaDs

09 HOOKED 48 PROFILE: KIRSTEN BALLERING 68 MAKING IT MINDFUL 76 SHOW US YOURS! 98 MY HOOKY TREASURE

King of the jungle, p36

how to...

74 YARN REVIEWS Sumptuous tweedy yarns

78 THE WORKSHOP Attaching a purse clasp

87 THE GUIDE Essential step-by-steps for you

93 CHARTS

The pefect paty bag p81

PerFect Pots P20

51 chic chevRons


Hooky New Year! Commissioning Editor Sara Huntington Art Editor Kimberly Saunders Technical Assistant Cara Medus Production Editor Becca Parker Digital Editors Kate Evans, Matthew Spiers Cover Photography Phil Sowels Photography Philip Sowels, Jesse Wild, Dave Caudery

This issue we’re taking pause before launching into 2018 by hooking up gorgeous accessories to decorate our homes – with this chilly weather, we’re spending a lot more time indoors, so we can appreciate them! If you haven’t tried combining crafts before, we thoroughly recommend a bit of cross stitch. Easy, chic and oh-so effective (see page 20). Then, turn to page 68 and take stock with our feature on mindfulness – it seems us crocheters already have a headstart… And, of course, we wish you a happy, hooky new year!

Group Art Editor Louise Bambridge Editor-in-Chief Debora Bradley Group Senior Editor Julie Taylor

AdvErTisInG

Call 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes Account Sales Manager Rachael Hawkins Brand Sales Executive Alexandra Johnson

MarKeTing & SubScRipTions

Direct Marketing Executive Kate Jones

ConTrIbuTors

CirCuLatIon

A big thank you to everyone who pitched in…

Head of Newstrade Marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade Marketing Manager Janine Smith International Account Manager Juliette Winyard

ProDuCtiOn

Production Co ordinator Sarah Greenhalgh Production Manager Emma McGuinness / Siân Rodgers Production Director Sarah Powell

BuyIng Team

Paul Torre, Karen Flannigan, Corinne Mellerup

LicEnSing

Senior Licensing & Syndication Manager Tim Hudson

“CRO CHET IS MY ART, MY CRAFT AND MY TIME” KATE ALINARI

Kate designed one of the beautiful shawls in Hook to Hook this month, inspired by bougainvillea flowers. And you can find out more about Kate on page 98.

“I CAN IMMERSE MYSELF IN CROCHET FOR DAYS!”

PubLiShiNg

Craft Publishing Director Kerry Lawrence Managing Director Bristol Andy Marshall Chief Executive Officer Tom Bureau

KIRSTEN BALLERING

Kirsten has an instinctive eye for colour, and relishes designing in rainbow brights. She reined her colours in for her own exquisite bridal shawl, however! Find out more on page 48.

SubScRipTions

Call 03330 162 146 or subscribe online at www.buysubscriptions.com/craft

Need to get in TouCh?

EDITORIAL TEAM simplycrochet@immediate.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS TEAM simplycrochet@buysubscriptions.com 03330 162 146

Next IssUe on Sale ThuRsday 28 DecEmber 2017 No gift included? Ask your newsagent. Covergift may be unavailable overseas.

“THE RIGHT YARN CAN MAKE ALL THE DIFFE RENCE” FRAN MORGAN

Not only does Fran have an enviable eye for colour, but she’s also a dab hand at inventing brand new stitches. Check out her peephole chevron stitch hat and scarf on page 51.

“I’M HA PPI EST WITH A CRO HO OK IN MY HA ND ” CHET AMANDA CRAWFORD

As a full-time crocheter and knitter, Amanda is never happier than when she’s seeking out inspiration for her designs. She designed our beautiful waterfall lace cardi on page 26.

OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Ilaria Caliri, Lucy Croft, Esme Crick, Hannah Cross, Judy Darley, Anne Egan, Vicky Guerrero, Bryony Hitchcock, Megan Hocking, Catherine Hood, Jenny May Forsyth, Esther Newman, Becca Parker, Becky Skuse, Pat Strong, Michelle Westlund

Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered office of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage.

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Andre the Crochet Alpaca Pattern 9081

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from everyone at King Cole

01756703670 • enquiries@kingcole.com • kingcole.com For every King Cole pattern you buy, a donation will be made to the Pink Ribbon Foundation.


Unravel your creativity Rico Creative Cotton aran

www.rico-design.co.uk


Ideas

Inspiration

Accessories

Websites

Events

Stuff

Snuggle up! Don’t let those frosty mornings get you down – seriously snuggly, this oversized jumper with a cosy neckline is like wearing your duvet to work. Go wild and give your winter coat the day off. Wool and the Gang’s Heart of Mine jumper crochet kit includes the divinely soft and chunky Crazy Sexy Wool in a choice of stylish colours, including Lipstick Red (pictured) and a happily bright Big Bird Yellow. Go to www.woolandthegang.com for details. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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GET HOOKED Want to brush up W

on your hooking skills? Or looking for a last-minute Christmas gift for a newbie hookster? Baa Ram Ewe’s crochet workshops for beginners teach you the basic techniques, plus how to make granny squares. Workshops are at the Chapel Allerton shop, Leeds, and the next one is 10am to 3pm on 20 January 2018. www.baaramewe. co.uk

HAPPY FEET

N

ew yarn to make socks for (almost) every day of the month, you say? Yes please! Paintbox Yarns’ Socks yarn is available in four colour stories, each with seven shades. Choose from Zebra, Fairisle, Stripes and Pixel, in a cosy 4ply 75% superwash wool, with 25% polyamide for durability. £8.89 per 100g ball, www.paintboxyarns.com.

Trend alert

We Love... Scarf weather is well and truly here and we are loving it, especially when we get to hook up some of the gorgeous creations from Wool Couture – these chunky numbers are to die for. Take your pick from the uber-stylish Turtle Snood (bottom left), the classically casual Layla Scarf (top left) and the chic Boston Harbour Scarf (top right). All three come in kits which include a hook, instructions and fabulously soft merino yarn. While you’re over at Wool Couture, if you have a pampered feline in your life, you may wish to investigate the Barry Cat Bed pattern – purrfect for Sir Fluffington to snuggle up cosy and warm. Head on over to www.wool couturecompany.com to find out more.

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WOODLAND WONDER

New Year’s resolutions are all about more hooking for us, so Lucy at Attic24’s gorgeous new CAL is perfect timing. Lucy’s striped Woodland Blanket CAL is worked using a curvy feather-and-fan type ripple. It starts on 5 January and runs for eight weeks. Visit www.attic24.typepad.com/weblog/ woodland-blanket.html to find out more.


HOOKED

INSPIRING BOOKS LITTLE HAPPY CIRCUS

TINE NIELSEN (£14.99, Sewandso)

Roll up, roll up… the circus is coming to town with this latest book by Tine Nielsen. You can crochet your own parade of amigurumi circus characters, with 12 patterns to choose from, including a clown, a strongman, an elephant, a walrus… even some popcorn. They’re great toys to hook up for children’s birthdays.

mini profile

CROCHET BIRDIE Kerryn, aka New Zealand blogger Crochet Birdie, admits to being a “devoted hooker”. She told us more: “My love of crochet began with a YouTube tutorial from Johnny Vasquez of New Stitch a Day. That hook and my hands just seemed to be in love from day one. I love the constant flow; it’s my way to find a bit of bliss every day, to just be. “I find inspiration everywhere, it’s kind of distracting! I especially love the angles and sudden colour changes of architecture and interior objects. I’m always trying to look at crochet differently. I like to keep it simple while giving it a ‘wow, is that crochet?’ edge. “A triumph in the early days was acheiving perfectly finished baby bootees. Those little suckers are tricky but when made right they are stunning. Now I am most proud of teaching people to crochet. When I started hosting workshops, I realised most people thought crochet was very difficult. I love the journey my Hookers go on – from confusion and frustration at the beginning to realising that they can actually do this!

COWLING AROUND

VALERIE BRACEGIRDLE (£10, Wheatsheaf Print)

“My biggest triumph, however, is on its way in the form of a bricks-and-mortar yarn store here in Gore, in the deep south of New Zealand. It will focus on New Zealand-made natural fibre yarns – a slow craft creative hub and my design headquarters. “I have to confess, I get bored very quickly! And the result... tons of unfinished projects! But I listened to my Mum when I was younger and get my homework finished, eventually.” Find Kerryn at www.crochetbirdie.co.nz and on Instagram as @crochetbirdie

SUBS STARS! Every month, three subscribers win a prize as a thank you for their loyalty. This month, the winners (below) will each receive Lily Sugar ‘n Cream cotton yarn, plus the crochet pattern for a trio of pretty and practical baskets to make! Mrs Karen Norfolk, Rainham Miss Andrea Mills, Wellingborough Mrs Sharon Hendrie, Nantwich Immediate Media Company, publishers of Simply Crochet, Subs Stars giveaway terms and conditions. Prizes were dispatched before the on sale date of this issue. There are no cash alternatives. Three winning entries will be chosen at random from all current subscribers. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Get your cowl on with this fab collection of nine crochet designs by inspirational designer Valerie Bracegirdle. From boho granny squares to stylish snowflake hexagonals, these designs are super-stylish, statement pieces. Valerie gives you plenty of tips on working the cowl patterns as well as ideas to make them your own.

BEETLES, BUGS AND BUTTERFLIES

LYDIA TRESSELT (£16.99, Sewandso)

Get ready to go on a bug hunt with this unique collection of super cute critters to crochet from Lydia Tresselt, creator of the lalylala brand. As well as the amigurumi patterns for tiny bugs, beetles, snails and butterflies, Lydia has created a charming story about growing up, accepting change and the power of dreams. It’s a magical book.

MACRAME FOR BEGINNERS AND BEYOND

AMY MULLINS AND MARNIA RYAN-RAISON (£14.99, F&W Publications)

Bring on the boho with this collection of 24 stylish macramé projects. All the basics are included in a comprehensive knot library, so you’ll have it covered, whether you’re trying a wall hanging or bag from the beginners’ projects, or you’re tackling something from the ‘And Beyond’ makes, like a clutch purse.


VOTE TO WIN! WThe British Craft

WOOLLY WOW

P

lans are afoot for 2018’s Wonderwool Wales, at the Royal Welsh Showground on 28 and 29 April. Alongside inspiring Woolschools, there are stalls, demos and the Sheepwalk (a woolly take on the catwalk) to look forward to. The centre point of the show this year will be a massive commemorative WW1 installation, a Curtain of Poppies, which will become a travelling exhibition to raise funds for the Royal British Legion. www.wonderwoolwales.co.uk.

Awards celebrate the very best that the craft industry has to offer. Voting for the British Craft Awards 2018 is open until 17 December, so get your skates on and vote for all your favourite designers and companies in 30 categories across crochet, stitch, knitting, craft, quilting and sewing. Once you’ve voted you can enter our prize draw to win a £100 Amazon voucher. Go to www.britishcraft awards.com.

WORKSHOPS

To dye for FanCy FooTwork

Prepare to put your best foot forward at the Waltham Abbey Wool Show’s Best Funky Footwear competition. You can enter any type of footwear, including socks, slippers or leg warmers – so hook up something for trend-setting trotters and sock it to ‘em! The show is on 21 January 2018, 10am-4pm, and judging is at 12.30pm by VIP guest the Sockmatician, aka Nathan Taylor (above). www.walthamabbeywoolshow.co.uk 12 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Had enough of Christmas already and need some quality crochet time? Escape to the Yarn Crochet Retreat with Dedri Uys of Look At What I Made, and spend a weekend learning how to dye your own yarn and making a project designed by Dedri. It all takes place in a fabulous house in Lyme Regis, just minutes from the seafront. How lovely. 23-25 Feb 2018, www.devonsunyarns.co.uk

BRIGHTBATIK

These exquisite throw and bolster with jewel-bright accents are from rising crochet design star Annelies Bae, and they’re a seriously cool living room update. Annelies comes from the Netherlands and lives in Belgium where she is a designer and teacher. She created this duo, and a whole range of other stunning co-ordinating interior accessories, for Stylecraft in Batik DK and Batik Elements yarns (pattern 9448). Find stockists at www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk.


HOOKED

MADE IN BRITAIN

West Yorkshire Spinners’ new Illustrious Naturals range is at the top of our wishlist. It’s a blend of 70% Falkland wool and 30% British alpaca and comes in six awesome natural shades. We’re thinking warm sweaters and snuggly cowls. Grab a hank for £10.95 per 100g, www.wyspinners.com

5 FAB FINDS Get New Year fabulous Start 2018 with some happy, healthy crochet.

1

WINDING DOWN This splendidly colourful Jane Crowfoot Mystical Lanterns crochet blanket is perfect for cosying up for savasana at the end of a yoga session. Find the pattern and wool packs at www.deramores.com. Namaste…

2

BRAG BAG Just the right size for crocheting on the go – plus you get to show off about the size of your stash! www.kellyconnor designs.com

out & about

Make FrienDs This little fella looks like he’s just begging to be hooked up and given to a loving home. Designed by Oekimoekie for Hoooked, he’s 20cm tall and comes ready-to-make in kit form. The kit includes a 6mm bamboo crochet hook, pattern and 200g of Hoooked Milano Eco barbante cotton yarn in Spring (shown), or choose from 9 other colours. Who could resist? £8.89 plus p&p, www.hoooked.co.uk

Skills, shows & events DEC16 Christmas Crochet with Katie, £35, 9 Caledonian Road, London, 020 7278 4335, www.katiejonesknit.co.uk/workshops

DEC16 Crochet with Beads, £25, 3-5 Hitchin Street, Baldock, Hertfordshire, 01462 612889, www.wool-n-things.co.uk

FRUITY BEAUTIES These juicy coasters of the watermelon variety are ideal to pop under a green tea, smoothie, or healthy mocktail. Go to www.how-store. com for the pattern.

4

OFF THE HOOK A crochet hook featuring the mantra we swear by – eat, sleep, crochet, repeat. Frankly, what else is there? Find it at www.noths.com

HAPPY DAYS A lovely big mug for your morning latte, or, more to the point, the perfect size for storing your crochet hooks. Visit TheGiftedFoxShop at www.etsy.com

5

JAN 13 Beginners Crochet, £30, Norfolk Yarn, Norwich, 01603 927034, www.norfolkyarn.co.uk

JAN 21 Crochet For Beginners, £14.50, Beautiful Swagger, St Neots, 07912 494760, www.beautifulswagger.com

JAN22 Crochet workshop, £25, The Balloon Tree, York 07947 779542, www.auriolcrochet.co.uk

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3

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CROSS STITCH IDEAS

It’s a stitch up Combine your crochet skills with a little easy cross stitch and give your living space a brand new look.


SmoKiN’ Pots New plant pot covers are a simple and effective way to give your shelves a bit of pizazz. The Aztec-style cross stitch here is super stylish, while the colour scheme is simply chic.

Just an IllUsion Ah, crochet blankets. You can never have too many. This one may look really tricky but it’s merely an illusion – bend your mind around a combo of front and back loop stitches and sit back and wait for the applause.


CROSS STITCH IDEAS

ThiRties DraMa The angular pattern on this beauty gives it a distinctive Art Deco feel – position artfully on a plain sofa or chair and think of Ingrid Bergman. You’ll need to concentrate on the cross stitch, but the background is a double crochet fest, so you can break out the subtitles.

Make an EntRance Keep your home freeflow with this dinky diamond pattern doorstop. We adore the little red highlights – oh-so understated. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 17


CROSS STITCH IDEAS

BolStEred up Diamonds are forever on this smooshy softie. Sharp, geometric pattern? Check. Cross stitch? Check. Nods to the latest trends complete. Tassels too? Why, yes, don’t mind if we do.

BerRyLicIous Teeny tiny tree berries in co-ordinating colours: the sort of accessory you didn’t know you needed until you saw them. Hook them up in minutes for a dramatic interior update. 18 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM


HOME IDEAS

Plant pOT COVERS

Brighten your shelves or desk with these funky plant pot covers by Hannah Cross. Q Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170g/288m), 1 ball of each: Off White (9702), Black (9727), small amount of Harvest Red (9763) Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook

TENSION 17 sts and 20 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over dc

MEASUREMENTS

TO FINISH Sew short seam together and place over pot. Using the Charts on p93, cross stitch the details onto each Cover working on Rows 18-30.

illusion blanket

“This was inspired by the artist Bridget Riley,” says designer Anne Egan. Q Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170g/288m), 3 balls of each: Off White (9702), Black (9727), small amount of Harvest Red (9763) Q A 6mm (US J/10) hook

To fit a 15cm (6in) diameter pot

TENSION COVER (MAKE 3) Make 2 in White and 1 in Black. Ch61. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. [60 dc] Rows 2-16 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [60 dc] Row 17 Ch1, *dc in next 9 sts, 2dc in next st; repeat from * 5 more times. [66 dc] Rows 18-30 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [66 dc] Fasten off.

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15 dc and 15 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over dc

MEASUREMENTS 110x110cm (43x43in) excluding fringe

ABBREVIATIONS Standing dc Place slip knot on the hook leaving a 25cm tail, insert hook in first st, yrh and pull through st, (2 loops on hook), yrh and pull through both loops.

NOTES The blanket is made up of rows of dc alternating Black and Off White. The image on the blanket is made by working into the back loop or the front loop only in some of the stitches. The red accent colour is added after the blanket is finished by stitching cross stitches across some of the rows. BLANKET With Black, ch2, leaving a 25cm tail. Row 1 (WS) Fdc into 2nd ch from hook, fdc in previous fdc 162 times. Fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. [163 fdc] Row 2 (RS) Join Off White in first st with a standing dc, dc in next st, (dc in bl of next 9 sts, dc in next st) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. [16 pattern repeats] Row 3 Join Black in first st with a standing dc, dc in fl of next st, (dc in each of next 9 sts, dc in fl of next st) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. [16 pattern repeats] Row 4 Join Off White in first st with a standing dc, dc in next st, (dc in bl of next 9 sts, dc in next st) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. [16 pattern repeats] Rows 5-10 Repeat Rows 3-4 three more times. Row 11 Join Black in first st with a standing dc, dc in fl of next st, (dc in fl of next st, dc in each of next 7 sts, dc in fl of next 2 sts) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. Row 12 Join Off White in first st with a standing dc, dc in next st, (dc in next st, dc in bl of next 7 sts, dc in each of next 2 sts) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. Rows 13-18 Repeat Rows 11-12 three more times. Row 19 Join Black in first st with a standing dc, dc in fl of next st, (dc in fl of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 5 sts, dc in fl of next 3 sts) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. Row 20 Join Off White in first st with a standing dc, dc in next st, (dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in bl of next 5 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. Rows 21-26 Repeat Rows 19-20 three more times. Row 27 Join Black in first st with a standing dc, dc in fl of next st, (dc in fl of next 3 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts, dc in fl of next


HOME IDEAS

4 sts) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. Row 28 Join Off White in first st with a standing dc, dc in next st, (dc in each of next 3 sts, dc in bl of next 3 sts, dc in each of next 4 sts) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. Rows 29-34 Repeat Rows 27-28 three more times. Row 35 Join Black in first st with a standing dc, dc in fl of next st, (dc in fl of next 4 sts, dc in next st, dc in fl of next 5 sts) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. Row 36 Join Off White in first st with a standing dc, dc in next st, (dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in bl of next st, dc in each of next 5 sts) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. Rows 37-52 Repeat Rows 35-36 eight more times. Rows 53-60 Repeat Rows 27-34. Rows 61-68 Repeat Rows 19-26. Rows 69-76 Repeat Rows 11-18. Rows 77-84 Repeat Rows 3-10. Rows 85-86 Repeat Rows 3-4. Rows 87-169 Repeat Rows 3-85 once more.

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FRINGE Beginning at one end of the Blanket, knot the tails together in groups of 4 (the last will be a group of 5). TO FINISH With RS facing and, using Harvest Red, work a cross stitch over each Off White dc that has only had its front loop worked into on Rows 14, 72, 96 and 156.

Criss-cross cUSHION

across, turn. [80 dc] Rows 2-99 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn. [80 dc] Fasten off. TO FINISH Using the Charts, cross stitch the details to the Front and Back of the Cushion Cover. Join front and back together with Off White and a dc seam, adding the cushion pad before completing the last side seam.

Aztec influences abound in this comfy cushion by Hannah Cross. Q Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170g/288m), 4 balls of Off White (9702), 1 ball of Black (9727), small amount of Harvest Red (9763) Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q A 50x50cm (20x20in) cushion pad

TENSION 17 sts and 20 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over dc CUSHION COVER Using Off White, ch81. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 21


HOME IDEAS

Doorstop block

A funky functional doorstop with flashes of scarlet. Designed by Bryony Hitchock. Q Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170g/288m), 1 ball of Off White (9702), small amounts of each: Black (9727), Harvest Red (9763) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook Q A 13x13cm (5x5in) doorstop cube Q 450g (1lb) sand, plus clingfilm Q Small amount of wadding

TENSION 17 sts and 20 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over dc

MEASUREMENTS Approx 13x13x13cm (5x5x5in) CUBE SIDES (MAKE 6) With Off White, ch23. Row 1 Dc in 2nd chain from hook and each ch across to end, turn. [22 dc] Rows 2-26 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across. [22 dc] Fasten off.

to join. [92 dc] Add cross stitch to each piece, using the Chart on page 96.

JOINING Using Black, work a ss seam to join the 6 sides into a cube. TO FINISH Wrap the sand in the clingfilm, stuff it inside the doorstop, shape it into a ball shape, then pad it all round with the wadding. Insert this into the Doorstop.

tree berrieS

“Make as many as you like and hang them on small branches,” says designer Anne Egan. Q Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170g/288m), small amounts of each: Off White (9702), Black (9727), Harvest Red (9763) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook

MEASUREMENTS Each berry measures approx 2.5x1.5cm (1x½in)

EDGING

NOTES

Join Black in first st, *dc in each st across to last st, 2dc in last st, rotate to work into row ends, (dc in 5 row ends, skip next row end) 4 times, dc in next row end, 2dc in next row end, rotate to work into the starting ch; repeat from * once more, ss to first dc

The Tree Berries are worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. Make enough to

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make clusters of Black or Off White berries adding a few Harvest Red berries for accent. BERRY Ch2, leaving 25cm (10in) starting tail. Round 1 4dc in 2nd ch from hook. [4 dc] Round 2 2dc in each dc around. [8 dc] Round 3 Dc in each dc around. Stuff starting tail into Berry as stuffing. Round 4 Dc2tog 4 times, ss in next st to join. [4 dc2tog] Fasten off leaving a 15cm (6in) tail. Make several Berries and knot tails in clusters of 3 and hang on the twigs.


HOME IDEAS

BOLSTER CUSHION

A stunning cylindrical cushion that proves simple is definitely effective. Designed by Bryony Hitchock. Q Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170g/288m), 1 ball of each: Off White (9702), Black (9727), Harvest Red (9763) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook Q A bolster cushion 40cm (16in) long x 50cm (20in) circumference

TENSION 18 sts and 16 rows to measure 10x10 cm (4x4in) over dc in bl

NOTES The Main Cushion is worked in dc in the back loops only. This prevents the natural twist which occurs when crocheting in the round. The finished tube is then turned RS out, revealing almost bead-like individual stitches, which align much better, and have slightly larger gaps at the corners, which is very helpful for applying the cross stitch. Make sure any ends show on the WS of your work. The End Pieces are worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work.

6 times. [72 sts] Round 13 (2dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts) 6 times. [78 sts] Round 14 (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 6 times. [84 sts] Round 15 (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 6 times. [90 sts] Fasten off. MAIN PIECE Using Off White, ch90, ss to first ch to join in a loop, being careful not to twist the chain. Round 1 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first ch and each ch around, ss to first dc to join. [90 sts] Rounds 2-63 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in bl of first dc and bl of each dc around, ss to first dc to join. [90 sts] Fasten off.

Black, with either the central diamond or inner border worked in Harvest Red.

JOINING Place one End Piece RS out into the end of the Main Cushion. Using Black, work a dc seam working into the front loops only of both the Main Cushion and the End Piece. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Insert the Bolster into the cover and repeat at the opposite end. Insert the cushion pad, and repeat the joining process with the other end piece.

TASSELS (MAKE 2)

Join Black in first st of last round, ss in each st around, fasten off. [90 sts] Repeat, working into the starting ch.

Cut 80 lengths, each 30cm long, of Harvest Red. Using a length of yarn, tie them tightly together at the halfway point. Fold in half at this point and secure into a tassel by winding another length of yarn about 3cm from the fold. Secure a tassel to the centre point of each End Piece.

TO FINISH Turn the Main Cushion RS out. Add the embroidered diamonds, using the Chart. Leave a gap of 3 rows at each end of the sleeve and 3 rows/stitches between each motif. Work the motifs mainly in

YARN STOCKISTS Readicut 01162 713759 www.readicut.co.uk

EDGE

END PIECES Using Off White, ch4, ss to first ch to join. Round 1 (WS) Ch1, 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 (WS) 2dc into each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 7 (2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) 6 times. [42 sts] Round 8 (2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts) 6 times. [48 sts] Round 9 (2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts) 6 times. [54 sts] Round 10 (2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts) 6 times. [60 sts] Round 11 (2dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts) 6 times. [66 sts] Round 12 (2dc in next st, dc in next 10 sts) Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 23


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®

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puff stitch mitts A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Eden Cottage Bowland DK (100% British Wool, 100g/220m), 1 skein of Briar Rose Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook For yarn stockists contact Eden Cottage Yarns www.edencottageyarns.co.uk

TENSION 6 puff sts and 9 rows measure 10x10cm using a 3.5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS To fit average adult hands, measures 18x9cm (7x3½in) at widest part

ABBREVIATIONS 3htr-puff st (Yrh, insert hook in sp or st indicated, yrh and pull up loop) 3 times, inserting the hook in the same sp or st each time, yrh and draw through all loops on hook 5htr-puff st (Yrh, insert hook in sp or st indicated, yrh and pull up loop) 5 times, inserting the hook in the same sp or st each time, yrh and draw through all loops on hook For a full list, see page 92

Puff stitches are ideal for these snuggly mitts. You can whip them up with just one skein of yarn, too – the perfect project for a cosy evening in front of a boxset .

NOTES The foundation ch is a multiple of 4+1 sts. To make a larger pair or a smaller pair simply add or subtract multiples of 4 sts. MITTS (BOTH ALIKE) Ch29. Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), (dc, ch2, 5htr-puff st) in 2nd ch from hook, *ch1, skip next 3 sts, (dc, ch2, 5htr-puff st) in next st; rep from * to last 4 sts, ch1, skip next 3 sts, dc in last st. [7 5htr-puff sts 8 dc, 7 ch-2 sps, 7 ch-1 sps] Row 2 Ch2 (does not count as st) 3htr-puff Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Winter warmer

A pretty stitch pattern makes for a pretty pair of fingerless mitts to keep hands toasty. By Hannah Cross. st in same st at base of beg ch-2, ch1, *(dc, ch2, 5htr-puff st) in next ch2-sp, ch1; rep from * to last ch2-sp, (dc, ch2, 3htr-puff st) in last ch2-sp. [6 5htr-puff sts, 2 3htr-puff sts, 7 dc, 7 ch-2 sps, 7 ch-1 sps] Rows 1 and 2 form the pattern. Rows 3-18 Pattern another 16 rows. Fasten off. Join side seams of mitts using a ss seam by joining for 9 sts from top and 13 sts up from the bottom to leave a thumbhole opening.

CUFF Round 1 (RS) Join the yarn to any st at the bottom of the mitt, ch1 (not counted as st), work 30dc evenly around bottom edge of

the mitt, ss to first dc to join. Now work in rows, joining every alternate row to Round 1 as follows: Foundation chain Ch11. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each of next 9 ch [10 sts]. Ss in each of next 2 sts of Round 1. Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), ssbl in each st to end. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dcbl in each st to end, ss in each of next 2 sts of Round 1. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around the cuff and at the end, join to opposite side of foundation ch with a ss seam. Fasten off and weave in ends. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 25


Psst

hi i a brilliant f o  pe  feproject yo u  lac cting e skil l 


Flex your lace skills and give this pretty cardigan a go. This one will take you anywhere. By Amanda Crawford.

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WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 27


acy cardi A waterfall cardi is a must for your wardrobe this season – warm in a wool mix, and super feminine – Amanda ’s lacy number is effortlessly flattering, and drapes in all the right places.

A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

NOTES

YOU WILL NEED

The Body is worked in one piece starting along one front edge and working in vertical rows to the opposite front edge, leaving slits for armholes. The Edging is worked first before continuing with the main Body and then working the Edging on the opposite side. The Sleeves are then worked in the round, directly onto the Body after joining the shoulder seams. The Neck Edging and Hem Edging are added at the end.

Q

King Cole Majestic DK (50% wool, 30% acrylic, 20% polyamide, 50g/121m), Grey (2469) See table for yarn quantities and measurements Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Stitch markers For yarn stockists contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com

ch2), skip next 2 ch, tr into next ch, *ch2, skip next 2 ch, tr in next ch; repeat from * across, turn. [42 (42: 46: 46: 46) ch-2 sps] Row 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in first tr, ch9, skip next tr, *(dc, ch4, 2-dtr cluster) into next tr, skip next tr, (2-dtr cluster, ch4, dc) into next tr, ch9, skip next tr; repeat from * across, dc in last tr, turn. Row 3 Ch10, dc in first ch-9 sp, *ch4, (2-dtr cluster, ch4, ss, ch4, 2-dtr cluster) in next 2-dtr cluster, ch4, dc in next ch-9 sp; repeat from * to last dc, ch4, 1 qtr in last dc, turn. Row 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *ch5, dc into next 2-dtr cluster; repeat from * to end, working last dc into 6th ch of beg ch-10, turn. Row 5 Ch3 (counts as tr), *ch2, tr in next ch-5 sp, ch2, tr in next dc; repeat from * to end.

TENSION CARDIGAN

22sts and 14 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over pattern

FIRST FRONT

FIRST FRONT SCALLOP EDGING

ABBREVIATIONS 2-dtr cluster (Yrh twice, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops twice) twice, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook For a full list, see page 92

Using a 4mm hook, ch128 (128: 140: 140: 140). Row 1 (WS) Dc into second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [127 (127: 139: 139: 139) sts] Row 2 (RS) Ch3, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, *ch2, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc; rep from * to end, turn. [32 (32: 35: 35: 35) ch-sps] Row 3 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st), (dc, 3tr, dc) in each ch-sp across to end. Rotate to work into row ends, ss into end of Row 1, ss into first ch of starting ch.

FIRST FRONT MONTANA TRAIL EDGING Row 1 (WS) Working along opposite side of the starting ch, ch5 (counts as tr,

b

ACTUAL BUST

c

a Width a: 45 (49: 55.5: 60.5: 65.5)cm 17¾ (19¼: 21¾: 23¾: 25¾)in Length b: 65 (65: 70.5: 70.5: 70.5)cm 25½ (25½: 27¾: 27¾: 27¾)in Length c: 47cm, 18½in 28 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

LENGTH

SLEEVE LENGTH GREY (2469)

ARMHOLE Place a marker in the 15th (16th: 17th: 18th: 19th) tr from end of row to indicate where the armhole will start. If tension is correct armhole should measure 20 (21: 22.5: 23.5: 25)cm. Next row Repeat Row 2 to marker, turn.

XS

S

M

L

XL

cm

81-86

91-96

101-106

111-116

121-127

in

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-46

48-50

SIZE TO FIT BUST

Row 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), *2tr in ch-2 sp, tr in next tr; repeat from * to end, turn. [127 (127: 139: 139: 139) sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc into each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch3, *ch2, skip 2dc, tr into next dc; repeat from * to end, turn. Rows 1-3 set pattern. Repeat Rows 1-3 until work measures 40 (44: 49: 54: 58)cm, ending with a Row 1.

cm

90

98

110

121

131

in

35½

38½

43½

47½

51½

cm

65

65

70.5

70.5

70.5

in

25½

25½

27¾

27¾

27¾

cm

47

47

47

47

47

in

18½

18½

18½

18½

18½

13

14

14

15

15

50g

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.


Next row Repeat Row 3, turn. Next row Repeat Row 1 to end, 42 (45: 48: 51: 54) for opposite side of armhole, turn. Next row Repeat Row 2 to end. [127 (127: 139: 139: 139) sts]

The body of the cardi is worked in one piece to give the draped waterfall effect.

BACK Continue in pattern until work measures 45 (49: 55: 60.5: 65.5)cm, from start of armhole shaping, ending with a Row 1 and at the bottom edge of your work. Work the second armhole as first armhole.

SECOND FRONT Continue in pattern until second Front measures same as first Front, ending on a Row 3 but with WS facing.

SECOND FRONT MONTANA TRAIL EDGING Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first tr, ch9, skip next tr, *(dc, ch4, 2-dtr cluster) into next tr, skip next tr, (2-dtr cluster, ch4, dc) into next tr, ch9, skip next tr; repeat from * across, dc in last tr, turn. Row 2 Ch10, dc in first ch-9 sp, *ch4, (2-dtr cluster, ch4, ss, ch4, 2-dtr cluster) in next 2-dtr cluster, ch4, dc in next ch-9 sp; repeat from * to last dc, ch4, 1 qtr in last dc, turn. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *ch5, dc into next 2-dtr cluster; repeat from * to end, working last dc into 6th ch of beg ch-10, turn. Row 4 Ch3 (counts as tr), *ch2, tr in next ch-5 sp, ch2, tr in next dc; repeat from * to end.

SECOND FRONT SCALLOP EDGING Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *2dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next tr; repeat from * across to end, turn. [127 (127: 139: 139: 139) sts] Row 2 Ch3, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, *ch2, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc; rep from * to end, turn. [32 (32: 35: 35: 35) ch-sps] Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), (dc, 3tr, dc) in each ch-sp across to end. Fasten off and weave in ends. Lay Cardigan on a flat surface and fold at Armholes, join the shoulder seams for 12 (13: 14: 15: 16)cm.

SLEEVES (BOTH ALIKE) Round 1 With RS facing, rejoin yarn at bottom edge of Armhole, ch1 (does not count as st throughout), work 87 (93: 99: 105: 111) dc evenly around armhole edge working 1 st into the shoulder seam and the extra sts into the underarm, ss to first dc to join. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), ch2, skip 2dc, *tr into next dc, ch2, skip 2dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Round 3 Ch3, 2tr in ch-2 sp, *tr in next tr, 2tr in ch-2 sp; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc2tog, dc in each st around to last 2 sts, dc2tog, ss to first dc to join. [85 (91: 97: 103: 109) sts] Round 5 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), *ch2, skip 2dc, tr into next dc; repeat from *

around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Round 6 Ch3, *2tr in ch-2 sp, tr in next tr; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Round 7 Repeat Round 4. [83 (89: 95: 101: 107) sts] Round 8 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), *ch2, skip 2dc, tr into next dc; repeat from * to last st, ch1, skip last st, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Round 9 Ch3, *2tr in ch-2 sp, tr in next tr; repeat from * to last ch-1 sp, tr in ch-1 sp, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 29


acy cardi Round 10 Repeat Round 4. [81 (87: 93: 99: 105) sts] Rounds 2-10 set pattern. Rounds 11-55 Repeat Rounds 2-10 five more times. [51 (57: 63: 69: 75) sts] Continue in pattern without decreasing until Sleeve measures 45cm (18in), ending on a ch-2 sp round. Next round Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next st 1 (0: 1: 0: 1) times, dc2tog 0 (1: 0: 1: 0) times, dc in each st around, ss to first st to join. [52 (56: 64: 68: 76) sts]

SLEEVE SCALLOP EDGING Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st, *ch2, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc; rep from * around, omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join. [13 (14: 16: 17: 19) ch-sps] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), *(dc, 3tr, dc) into each ch-2 sp around, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off.

NECK EDGING Round 1 (RS) With RS facing, join yarn at neckline at one edge, dc evenly around the neckline, ensuring you have a multiple of 4 sts plus 1 extra st.

beg ch-10, turn. Row 4 Ch3 (counts as tr), *ch2, tr in next ch-5 sp, ch2, tr in next dc; repeat from * to end. Fasten off.

BOTTOM SCALLOP EDGING Row 1 Join yarn at edge of Scallop Edge along one Front, ch1 (does not count as st), dc evenly into row ends of Montana Trail Edging, rotate to work into last row of Montana Trail Edging, dc in first tr, *2dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next tr; repeat from * across to end, rotate to work into row ends of Montana Trail Edging, dc evenly across to Edge of Scallop Edging. Row 2 Ch3, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, *ch2, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc; rep from * to end, turn. You may have to make slight adjustments to the number of skipped dc to accommodate the number of sts you have in Row 1. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), (dc, 3tr, dc) in each ch-sp across to end. Fasten off and weave in ends.

NECK SCALLOP EDGE Round 1 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st, *ch2, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc; rep from * around, omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join. [13 (14: 16: 17: 19) ch-sps] Round 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), *(dc, 3tr, dc) into each ch-2 sp around, ss to last dc to join. Fasten off.

BOTTOM EDGING Row 1 With RS facing, dc evenly around the hemline including the Montana Trail Edging but excluding the Scallop Edging on both Fronts, ensuring you have a multiple of 12 sts plus 7 extra sts. Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), *ch2, skip 2dc, tr into next dc; repeat from * across, turn.

BOTTOM MONTANA TRAIL EDGING Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first tr, ch9, skip next tr, *(dc, ch4, 2-dtr cluster) into next tr, skip next tr, (2-dtr cluster, ch4, dc) into next tr, ch9, skip next tr; repeat from * across, dc in last tr, turn. Row 2 Ch10, dc in first ch-9 sp, *ch4, (2-dtr cluster, ch4, ss, ch4, 2-dtr cluster) in next 2-dtr cluster, ch4, dc in next ch-9 sp; repeat from * to last dc, ch4, 1 qtr in last dc, turn. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *ch5, dc into next 2-dtr cluster; repeat from * to end, working last dc into 6th ch of 30 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

The hem edging is added once the body is complete.

The scalloped edge gives a neat finish to the lace pattern.


EE CH PJ

K

IT

AU T H

EN

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•S

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T IC

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Lion around

You won’t be able to resist this roarsome little chap, designed complete with cap by Ilaria Caliri.


A BIT TRICKY 4PLY ARAN

2.5MM 3MM

YOU WILL NEED Q

Scheepjes Catona (100% mercerized cotton, 50g/25m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Saffron (249) Yarn B Root beer (157) Yarn C Bridal white (105) Yarn D Emerald (515) Q Scheepjes Luca (70% acrylic, 30% wool, 100g/180m), 1 ball of Yarn E Orange (14) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q A 3 mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Black stranded cotton Q 2 safety eyes (9mm) Q A safety nose (10mm) Q Stitch markers Q Toy stuffing For yarn stockists contact Scheepjes www.scheepjes.com/en

MEASUREMENTS Approx 14 cm (5½in) tall

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

Ilaria Caliri’s amigurumi lion is way too cute to be a fiercesome beast! Despite his thick mane, he’s more like a cub looking for a friend… could it be you? He’s obviously a team player.

NOTES The Lion is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. HEAD With Yarn A and a 2.5mm hook, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 dc] Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 dc] Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 dc] Round 6 (4dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [36 dc] Round 7 (5dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [42 dc] Round 8 (6dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [48 dc] Round 9-14 Dc in each st around. [48 dc] Round 15 (Dc2tog, 6dc) 6 times. [42 sts] Round 16 (Dc2tog, 5dc) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 17 (Dc2tog, 4dc) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 18 (Dc2tog, 3dc) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 19 (Dc2tog, 2dc) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 20 Dc in each st around. [18 dc] Fasten off. Do not stuff Head yet. MUZZLE With Yarn A and a 2.5mm hook, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 dc] Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 dc] Round 5-6 Dc in each st around. [24 dc] Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. EAR (MAKE 2) With Yarn A and a 2.5mm hook, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc

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Make a wild woolly mane for your lion by looping orange yarn through your stitches.

into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in next st, 5dc. [7 dc] Round 3 2dc in next st, 6dc. [8 dc] Round 4 2dc in next st, 7dc. [9 dc] Round 5 2dc in next st, 8dc. [10 dc] Round 6 (2dc in next st, 4dc) twice. [12 dc] Round 7 Dc in each st around. [12 dc] Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. BODY With Yarn A and a 2.5mm hook, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 dc] Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 dc] Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 dc] Round 6 (4dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [36 dc] Round 7-12 Dc in each st around. [36 dc] Round 13 (Dc2tog, 1dc) 4 times. [32 sts] Round 14 Dc2tog 4 times, 24dc. [28 sts] Round 15 (5dc, dc2tog) 4 times. [24 sts] Round 16-17 Dc in each st around. [24 sts] Round 18 (2dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 19 Dc in each st around, ss to first st to join. [18 sts] Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the Body.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 37


AMIGURUMI ION TAIL With Yarn A and a 2.5mm hook, ch11. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. [10 dc] Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Use three 2cm strands of Yarn E to add a fringe at the end of the tail.

Each limb is worked separately and stitched together at the end.

ARM (MAKE 2) With Yarn A and a 2.5mm hook, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc into the loop. [5 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [10 dc] Round 3-4 Dc in each st around. [10 dc] Round 5 3dc, dc2tog twice, 3dc. [8 sts] Round 6-9 Dc in each st around. [8 dc] Stuff the arm. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. LEG (MAKE 2) With Yarn A and a 2.5mm hook, ch5. Round 1 Dc in second chain from the hook, dc in next 2 ch, 3dc in last ch, rotate to work along opposite side of starting ch, 2dc, 2dc in last ch. [10 dc] Round 2 (4dc, 2dc in next st) twice. [12 dc] Round 3 (4dc, 2dc in each of next 2 sts) twice. [16 dc] Round 4-5 Dc in each st around. [16 dc] Round 6 5dc, dc2tog twice, 7dc. [14 sts] Round 7 4dc, dc2tog twice, 6dc. [12 sts] Round 8 (Dc2tog, 2dc) 3 times. [9 sts] Stuff the leg. Round 9 Dc in each st around. [9 dc] Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. MANE With Yarn E and a 3mm hook, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 dc] Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 dc] Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 dc] Round 6 (4dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [36 dc] Round 7-10 Dc in each st around. [36 dc] Do not fasten off. Continue with the lower part of the Mane (it will look like a beard). Ch15, dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, ss into the next st of Round 10, turn to work back along Lower Mane, dc in next 15 sts. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. 38 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

CAP With Yarn D and a 2.5mm hook, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 dc] Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 dc] Round 5-8 Dc in each st around. [24 dc] Change to Yarn C. Round 9 8ss, 2dc in next st, 1htr, 2tr in each of next 3 sts, 1htr, 2dc in next st, 9ss. Fasten off leaving a long tail of yarn and decorate the cap with some long stitches. TO MAKE UP (If making the lion for a child under 3 years, embroider the nose and eyes.) Place the safety nose on the Muzzle between Rounds 3 and 4. Stitch the mouth to the Muzzle, under the nose, using the black stranded cotton. Sew the Muzzle between Rounds 9 and 18 of the head, stuffing lightly while sewing. Insert the safety eyes between Rounds 12 and 13 of the Head, 2 stitches away from the muzzle. Stuff the Head with toy stuffing. Sew the Head to the Body.

Position Legs and Arms. Sew the Arms between Rounds 12 and 13 of the Body approximately 2 stitches apart. Sew the Legs between Rounds 4 and 6 of the Body. Sew the tail to the bottom. Sew the Mane on the Head with the wrong side up, positioning the narrow strap under the Muzzle and sewing the end to the other side of the Mane. This piece is used as a base for securing the hair of the Mane. Cut several strands of Yarn E (approx 6 cm long). Fold each strand in half and use the crochet hook to join it in a stitch into the visible loops. Cover the last round of the Mane completely and approx. half of the total stitches. Sew the Ears on the Mane.


EW E N SU IS !

DON’T MISS IT! Banish those January blues with the next issue of Love Crochet

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ONLINE www.buysubscriptions.com/lovecrochet †Calls from landlines will cost up to 9p per minute. Call charges from mobile phones will cost between 3p and 55p per minute but are included in free call packages. Lines are open 8.00am -6.00pm weekdays and 9.00am – 1pm Saturday for orders only *Free delivery available on UK orders only. Overseas please call +44 (0) 3330 162 138. EUR price £6.99, ROW price £7.99. All prices include p&p. Please allow up to 14 days for delivery.

– packed with ideas for novice crocheters looking for gorgeous projects to sink their hooks into!

AT JUST £4.99 THIS ISSUE INCLUDES:

■ Makes perfect for beginners ■ Simple & stylish homeware ■ Quick & cute accessories

BEST

FO R S M A LL MAKES


Spread the word Make a statement and update an outfit in minutes with a simple chain. By Esme Crick.


MB ISH AN OUTFIT EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

DROPS Belle (53% cotton, 33% viscose, 14% linen, 50g/120m), 1 ball of Black (08) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q A plain white T-shirt Q Fabric glue Q Pins, needle and black thread For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

TENSION Chain of 23sts measures 10cm

Statement sweaters are all over the catwalk this season, and with a super simple chain, you can create your very own. The beauty of this is that you can whip up a chain in minutes, and update all those plain jumpers and tops, giving your wardrobe a new lease of life without heading to the shops. They’re so speedy you can make one for every mood in your repertoire. YAY! TOP First, sketch your design onto a large piece of paper, the size to fit on to the front of the top. Carefully copy or transfer your design onto the top using a vanishing fabric marker or pins. Using the yarn and hook, make a chain long enough to lay along the lines of your design, using several separate pieces of chain if your design is made up of different sections.

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

Our ‘Yay’ pattern is made up of one 2m (79in) length and 2 shorter lengths of 8.5cm (3½in) and 17cm (7in) for the exclamation mark.

Use a little glue to attach your chain; this will keep it in place for you to sew it on securely.

Glue the chain onto the top using a very small amount of fabric glue, making sure the chain is not twisted. Once the glue is dry, tack the chain on with needle and matching thread, using small running stitches to make secure.

Place your chain carefully to ensure it sits flat to the fabric and isn’t twisted when sewn on.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK CHAINS

8

1 Hold the hook and yarn end in your right hand, and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anti-clockwise.

42 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

2 Pull the hook towards the slip knot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pulling it through the slip knot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a chain.

3 This is what your row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your right hand near the hook, to keep the tension. Keep going until you have the number of chains stated on your pattern.

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

4 Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Do not count your slip knot or the loop on the hook (called the working loop). For accuracy, make sure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.


DyeNinja

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Psst

Wo  k an repeat to oth e  the body make sleev e  lo o  nge 


e v a w w Ne

Add a hit of powerful colour to this jumper with the scallop stitch detailing. By Pat Strong.

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 45


SCA OP D SW AT R Pat’s pretty jumper has an interesting construction, easily adaptable in terms of body and sleeve length. We love our contrasting colour choice, but tones of one colour could look fabulous too.

A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

NOTES

YOU WILL NEED Q

Sirdar No.1 (50% acrylic, 50% nylon, 100g/230m), Glow (204), Pure Scarlet (214), Deep Navy (217) See table for yarn quantities and measurements Q A 4mm (US G/6) crochet hook Q Stitch markers For yarn stockists contact Sirdar 01924 231682 www.sirdar.co.uk

TENSION 19 sts and 23 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over dc in the round 2 pattern repeats to measure 11.5cm (4½in) and 10 rows to measure 10cm over wave pattern

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

The Sweater is worked bottom up in Rounds from the underbust, adding in the Sleeves before completing the yoke. The wave pattern detailing is then added top down to both the Body and the Sleeves. The Sweater is designed with a loose fit. Some of the sizes are close together as there is a large pattern stitch repeat, so consider the actual bust measurement before choosing which size to crochet. BODY Using Deep Navy, ch187 (198: 198: 209: 220: 220: 231: 242) loosely, ss to first ch to join in a loop, being careful not to twist the chain. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each ch around, ss to first dc to join. [187 (198: 198: 209: 220: 220: 231: 242) sts] Place a marker in the first st of Round 1. Round 2 Ch1, dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. Repeat Round 2 until work measures 10 (10: 10: 9: 9: 8: 6: 6)cm. Fasten off. Place work on a flat surface with the marked st at one edge. Mark the st in the last round worked which is in line with this st (left underarm). Note, this will not be the first st due to the natural spiralling effect of working in the round.

10

SIZE

TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST b

SLEEVE LENGTH c

LENGTH a Width a: 49.5 (52: 52: 55.5: 58: 58: 61: 63.5)cm 19¾ (20½: 20½: 21½: 22¾: 22¾: 24: 25)in Length b: 55 (55: 56.5: 57.5: 57.5: 58: 58: 58)cm 21½ (21½: 22¼: 22½: 22½: 22¾: 22¾: 22¾)in Length c: 34cm, 13½in 46 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

12

*Mark the 7th (7th: 8th: 8th: 9th: 9th: 10th: 10th) st before the marker and the 6th (6th: 7th: 7th: 8th: 8th: 9th: 9th) stitch after the marker. [14 (14: 16: 16: 18: 18: 20: 20] marked sts* From the central marker count 94 (99: 99: 105: 110: 110: 116: 121) and place marker. Repeat from * to * to mark the right underarm. Remove central markers on both sides. SLEEVES (BOTH ALIKE) Using Deep Navy, ch60 (60: 66: 71: 71: 71: 77: 77) loosely, ss to first ch to join in a loop, being careful not to twist the chain. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each ch around, ss to first dc to join. [60 (60: 66: 71: 71: 71: 77: 77) sts] Place a marker in the first st of Round 1. Round 2 Ch1, dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. Repeat Round 2 until work measures 10cm. Fasten off. Place Sleeve on a flat surface with the marked st at one edge. Mark the st in the last round worked which is in line with this st. Mark the 7th (7th: 8th: 8th: 9th: 9th: 10th: 10th) st before the marker and the 6th (6th: 7th: 7th: 8th: 8th: 9th: 9th) stitch after the marker. [14 (14: 16: 16: 18: 18: 20: 20] marked sts. Remove central marker. Holding the Body and Sleeve RS together, line to the underarm stitch markers and sew the underarm seam using Deep Navy.

14

16

18

20

22

24

cm

86

91

97

102

107

112

117

122

in

34

36

38

40

42

44

46

48

cm

98

104

104

110

116

116

122

127

in

38½

41

41

43

45½

45½

48

50

cm

34

34

34

34

34

34

34

34

in

13½

13½

13½

13½

13½

13½

13½

13½

cm

55

55

56.5

57.5

57.5

58

58

58

in

21½

21½

22¼

22½

22½

22¾

22¾

22¾

100g

1

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

PURE SCARLET (214) 100g

1

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

100g

3

3

4

4

4

4

5

5

GLOW (204)

DEEP NAVY (217)

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.


YOKE

BODY WAVE PATTERN

Round 1 Rejoin Deep Navy on the back of the Sweater to work across sts of left Sleeve, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across left Sleeve, dc across all sts along Front of Sweater, dc in each st across right Sleeve, dc across all sts along Back of Sweater, ss to first dc to join. [251 (262: 266: 287: 290: 290: 305: 316) sts Round 2 Ch1, dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. Rounds 3-5 Ch1, dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. Round 6 Ch1, dc in each dc around, decreasing 1 (2: 6: 7: 0: 0: 5: 6) sts evenly as you go, ss to first dc to join. [250 (260: 260: 280: 290: 290: 300: 310) sts Round 7 Ch1, *dc in 8 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join. [225 (234: 234: 252: 261: 261: 270: 279) sts Work 7 (7: 8: 9: 9: 10: 11: 11) rounds as Round 2. Next round Ch1, *dc in 7 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join. [200 (208: 208: 224: 232: 232: 240: 248) sts Work 7 (7: 8: 9: 9: 10: 11: 11) rounds as Round 2. Next round Ch1, *dc in 6 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join. [175 (182: 182: 196: 203: 203: 210: 217) sts Work 7 (7: 8: 9: 9: 10: 11: 11) rounds as Round 2. Next round Ch1, *dc in 5 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join. [150 (156: 156: 168: 174: 174: 180: 186) sts Work 7 (7: 8: 9: 9: 10: 11: 11) rounds as Round 2. Next round Ch1, *dc in 4 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join. [125 (130: 130: 140: 145: 145: 150: 155) sts Next round Repeat Round 2. Yoke measures 17.5 (17.5: 19: 21: 21: 22.5: 24.5: 24.5)cm

Round 1 (RS) Join Glow in first ch-1 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in same ch-1 sp, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, dc in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, *(3tr in next ch-1 sp) twice, dc in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp, 3tr in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 2 (RS) Join Pure Scarlet in first dc, ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), tr in st at base of ch-4, *ch1, skip next 3-tr group, dc in sp before next 3-tr group, ch5, skip next 3-tr group, dc in sp before next 3-tr group, ch1, skip next 3-tr group, (tr, ch1, tr) in next dc; repeat from * around, omitting last (tr, ch1, tr), ss to 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. Round 3 Ss to first ch-1 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in same ch-1 sp, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, dc in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, *(3tr in next ch-1 sp) twice, dc in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp, 3tr in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 4 Join Glow in dc at centre of Back (above st marker), ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), tr in st at base of ch-4, *ch1, skip next 3-tr group, dc in sp before next 3-tr group, ch5, skip next 3-tr group, dc in sp before next 3-tr group, ch1, skip next 3-tr group, (tr, ch1, tr) in next dc; repeat from * around, omitting last (tr, ch1, tr), ss to 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. Round 5 Ss to first ch-1 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in same ch-1 sp, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, dc in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, *(3tr in next ch-1 sp) twice, dc in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp, 3tr in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off. Rounds 2-5 set pattern. Rounds 6-21 Repeat Rounds 2-5 four more times. Rounds 22-23 Repeat Rounds 2-3 once more. Weave in all ends.

LOWER BODY Round 1 (RS) Working into the opposite side of the starting chain, join Deep Navy in the centre st at back of Sweater, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each ch around, ss to first dc to join, place marker in first st for reference. [187 (198: 198: 209: 220: 220: 231: 242) dc] Round 2 (RS) Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), tr in st at base of ch-4, *ch1, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch5, skip next 4 dc, dc in next dc, ch1, skip next 2 dc, (tr, ch1, tr) in next dc; repeat from * around, omitting last (tr, ch1, tr), ss to 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join, fasten off. [17 (18: 18: 19: 20: 20: 21: 22) pattern repeats] Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

The scalloped waves are completed top down after you’ve finished hooking the top section.

The sleeve wave pattern matches that of the lower body, made of a four-round repeat.

ch1, skip next 2 dc, (tr, ch1, tr) in next dc; repeat from * around, omitting last (tr, ch1, tr), ss to 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join, fasten off. [5 (6: 6: 6: 6: 6: 7: 7) pattern repeats]

SLEEVE WAVE PATTERN LOWER SLEEVES Round 1 (RS) Working into the opposite side of the starting chain, join Deep Navy in the centre st under the Sleeve, ch1 (does not count as st), *dc in next 10 (10: 13: 12: 12: 12: 15: 15) ch, dc2tog 1 (1: 0: 1: 1: 1: 0: 0); repeat from * 4 more times, dc in next 0 (0: 1: 1: 1: 1: 1: 2: 2) ch, ss to first dc to join, place marker in first st for reference. [55 (55: 66: 66: 66: 66: 77: 77) dc] Round 2 (RS) Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), tr in st at base of ch-4, *ch1, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch5, skip next 4 dc, dc in next dc,

Rounds 1-23 Repeat Wave Pattern of Lower Body.

NECK EDGING Round 1 Join Glow in any st along back of neckline, ch1 (counts as ss), ss in next st and each st around, ss to beg ch-1 to join, fasten off. Round 2 Join Pure Scarlet in first st, ch1 (counts as ss), ss in next st and each st around, ss to beg ch-1 to join, fasten off and weave in ends.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 47


GOOD READ

Kirsten has an instinctive eye for colour, resulting in brilliant, bold designs.

Kirsten Ballering’s spicy crochet creations are proof that colours make or break a design.

W

e first met Kirsten Ballering when she contributed a star stitchinfused blanket square for the Scheepjes’ Last Dance on the Beach crochet-along (CAL) in 2016. Since then, we’ve been following her creative output with avid interest. Mouthwatering colour combinations and irresistible textures make her designs a joy to crochet. And yet, she tells us, her love of the craft only came about by chance. “I was in Stockholm in the winter and because of the long nights, I didn’t have much to do. I read about crochet, saw a blanket I adored and decided to learn. I used the wrong type of yarn – think thick, fuzzy and dark – and nearly threw it in a corner. In the end I succeeded in making a very wonky piece.”

48 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Fortunately, around this time, Kirsten discovered she wasn’t the only yarn-lover on her campus. “I found out that a few floors above my dorm room, a weekly craft meeting was taking place. The girls there taught me how to crochet properly. Without them I would probably never have gotten past that wonky piece!” DREAMING UP COLOURS Kirsten realised the blanket she’d struggled so hard to make was beyond her skill level at that time. “So I decided to take on an easy granny blanket instead,” she says. “I couldn’t find a colour combination I liked so I made up my own. When I showed it to others, they encouraged me to share the pattern as they loved the colours so much! I got a taste for

designing and I liked it, so I decided to pursue it further.” It was the success of the Granny Rainbow blanket that prompted Kirsten to launch her blog, www.haakmaarraak.nl, in January 2013. The blanket became an early free pattern on the blog. “I had blogged in the past so it seemed like a logical extension.” It was the first step in making crochet a full-time occupation. Developing her crochet activities happened gradually, but felt perfectly natural to Kirsten. “As with anything, designing and writing patterns has a lot of different aspects,” she says. “There’s the actual designing, but also photography, charting, editing, maintaining social media and so on. To master all these aspects took a lot of time but I’m glad I did, as


GOOD READ

I have full control over my style and patterns.” Kirsten has a job as well as being a designer, but has recently gone part-time so she can focus on the designing more. One of the major challenges is the need to keep blogging regularly. “When I started my blog, I was studying, so I had more time. Now my blog posts are less frequent. That’s not a bad thing, as I’m more concerned with writing interesting posts than blogging regularly.” A WORLDWIDE COMMUNITY For Kirsten, blogging has led to some excellent opportunities, not least the chance to become a Scheepjes blogger. “It’s a great company to work with and has brought me valuable opportunities, such as designing this year’s Scheepjes CAL.” CALs are another deeply satisfying part of Kirsten’s varied work life. “The fact that everybody is working on the same project is wonderful,” she says. “Whenever you do a CAL, a big or small community is forming around one design. People encourage each other to continue and help to overcome obstacles. It’s like you’re in a big craft meeting taking place all around the world!” This support network is never more vital than when overcoming the occasional crochet disaster, as Kirsten knows only too well. “Oh, I’ve had so many!” she exclaims. “One of the most important things I’ve learned through the years is it pays to sit down before you design, think a bit about pattern repeats and starting amounts and so on. “ I tended to start just on a whim and see where I ended up. Then, when I had to write the pattern I had to figure out what I did. Now I sit down, have a think about the first few rows and write the pattern as I go.” Her biggest breakthrough is a habit that we’re devoted to as well. “A technique I swear by is blocking your work – it makes Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

such a difference to the overall look and drape of a piece and it’s so easy!” She adds ruefully: “Another thing that I learned is the importance of tech editing and testing. When I started out designing, I didn’t use testers. The first time somebody found a mistake in my pattern I felt so embarrassed! It showed me how valuable a fresh pair of eyes is. Since then, I always ask testers to try out my patterns before releasing them.” Inspiration for new designs can come from just about any aspect of Kirsten’s life. “It can be as easy as clearing out my yarn stash and accidentally putting a new combination together, or walking past tiles with an interesting texture or motif,” she says. “Other times it’s a browse on Pinterest or a piece of art. It can be anything.”

washi tape, keepsakes, anything I like,” she says. “It helps to keep my yarn close to hand.” This room is home to essentials such as her Tulip Etimo crochet hooks, too. “I can’t work without these,” she says. “Because I hold my hook like a knife, I used to suffer from cramps in my hand. When I switched to ergonomically shaped hooks those cramps went. Tulip Etimo hooks are just the right size and shape for me.” Kirsten relishes the way crochet has the power to amaze. “How incredible that the use of the right stitches and colours can make or break a design!” she exclaims. “I love the ombré trend – you can work with any colour. Have you tried a grey ombré? It looks so classy!” The past few months have been exciting for Kirsten, and even the most unrelated event included a scattering of crochet. “I got married this summer so made several items to wear and use, such as a wedding stole – featuring eight skeins of alpaca yarn and 2,000 beads – and a ring pillow based on the ‘Sophie’s Universe’ pattern by Dedri Uys,” she says. “I’m also working on new patterns to release in the coming months, as well as a few new and exciting things that I can’t tell you about – yet!”

“WHEN YOU DO A CAL, IT’S LIKE YOU’RE IN A CRAFT MEETING TAKING PLACE AROUND THE WORLD!”

SURROUNDED BY COLOUR Ideas are also fuelled by Kirsten’s other creative pastimes. “I like most crafts, so I’ve dipped my toes in spinning, embroidery, jewellery-making, soap-making, papercrafts and many more.” She stores yarns and inspirational bits and bobs in her craft room. “There’s loads of colour. Paintings, sketches,

Written by Judy Darley

A few of her favourite things

When Kirsten puts down her crochet hook…

“I love playing computer games! I can completely immerse myself for a few days in a game with a good story. I’m surprisingly good at it too… It must be the hand-eye coordination from all the crochet I’m doing.” Find out more about Kirsten’s designs at www.haakmaarraak.nl, www.ravelry.com/designers/kirsten-ballering and www.instagram.com/haakmaarraak/

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 49


50+ EASY-HOOK PROJECTS! GIFT IDEAS, HOME UPDATES AND MORE

Crochet HOME•WARDROBE•AMIGURUMI•GIFTS•KIDS’MAKES

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The team behind Mollie Makes bring you a collection of contemporary crochet patterns for enthusiasts of all levels. Our easy-to-follow projects created by top crochet designers will inspire you to hook clothes, gifts, home accessories and more. Plus there’s a handy beginner’s guide so you can start right away!

PRE-order your copy today!

Call 03330 162 138 AND QUOTE ‘MOLLIE MAKES CROCHET 2018 PRINT 1’ Online WWW.BUYSUBSCRIPTIONS.COM/CRAFTSPECIAL Lines open weekdays 8am to 6pm and Saturday 9am to 1pm. Overseas please call +44 (0) 3330 162 138. * EUR price £11.99, ROW price £12.49. All prices include P&P. Please allow up to 28 days for delivery.


e v h r c o e n l s o t h i p t c e e h P new stitch and how to use it in ever a r e v o y iss u Disc e.

BASIC PEEPHOLE CHEVRON STITCH Using Yarn A, ch23. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 4th ch from hook, tr in each of next 3 ch, skip next 2 ch, tr in each of next 4 ch, ch2, tr in each of next 4 ch, skip next 2 ch, tr in each of next 3 ch, 2tr in last ch, turn. [18 tr and 1 ch-2 sps]

Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in same st at base of beg ch-3, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip next 2 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-2 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip next 2 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr 2tr in top of ch-3, turn. Row 2 forms chevron pattern. Patterns by Fran Morgan

Tun the page fo some great idea to ue thi patten


Turn your newfound chevron skills into stunning accessories.


scarf

Keep warm in this wool and alpaca mix. It’s a super show-stopper in stunning stripes. Q DROPS Nepal Uni Colour (65% wool, 35% alpaca, 50g/75m), 2 balls of each: Yarn A Sea Blue (8911) Yarn B Raspberry Rose (8910) Yarn C Light Olive (8038) Yarn D Coral (8909) Q A 4mm (US D/3) hook For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 0800 505 3300 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

TENSION 1 pattern repeat and 7 rows measure 11x11cm (4¼x4¼in) over chevron pattern

MEASUREMENTS Scarf measures 22x164cm (8½x64½in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92 STRIPE SEQUENCE 2 rows Yarn A. 2 rows Yarn B. 2 rows Yarn C. 2 rows Yarn D. 4 rows Yarn A. 4 rows Yarn B. 4 rows Yarn C. 4 rows Yarn D.

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SCARF Using Yarn A, ch43. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 4th ch from hook, tr in each of next 3 ch, skip next 2 ch, tr in each of next 4 ch, *ch2, tr in each of next 4 ch, skip next 2 ch, tr in each of next 4 ch; rep from * ending last rep with tr in each of next 3 ch, 2tr in last ch, turn. [34 tr and 3 ch-2 sps] Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in same st at base of beg ch-3, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip next 2 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr, *(tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-2 sp, tr in each of next 3 tr, skip next 2 tr, tr in each of next 3 tr; rep from * to last st, 2tr in top of ch-3, turn. Row 2 forms chevron pattern. Rep Row 2 in Stripe Sequence from Row 3. Rep Stripe Sequence another 3 times, then rep first 8 rows once more. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Hat

Hooking a hat is a great way to work this stitch into your latest beanie obsession. Q DROPS Nepal Uni Colour (65% wool, 35% alpaca, 50g/75m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Sea Blue (8911) Yarn B Raspberry Rose (8910) Yarn C Light Olive (8038) Yarn D Coral (8909) Q A 4mm (US D/3) hook

MEASUREMENTS Hat fits an average adult head HAT Using Yarn A, ch93. Work Rows 1 and 2 as given for Hat then rep Row 2 another 11 times, following Hat Stripe Sequence, from Row 3. [74 tr and 8 ch-2 sps]

SHAPE TOP Cont in Yarn C. Next row Ch3 (counts as tr), tr2tog over st at base of beg ch-3 and next tr, tr2tog, *skip next 2 tr, tr2tog, tr2tog over next tr and ch-2 sp, ch2, tr2tog over same ch-2 sp and next tr, tr2tog; rep from * to last 6 sts, skip next 2 tr, The beanie has a tr2tog, tr2tog over last tr and ch-3, turn. relaxed fit for serious [36 tr2tog, 8 ch-2 sps plus beg ch-3] hipster style. Change to Yarn D. Next row Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in same st at base of beg ch-3, skip next 2 sts, *tr2tog over next st and ch-2 sp, tr2tog over same ch-2 sp and next st, skip next 2 sts; rep from * to last 2 sts, tr2tog. [19 sts] Next row Ch3 (counts as tr), *tr3tog over next 3 sts; rep from * to end. [7 sts] Fasten off. TO FINISH Sew up side seam and weave in ends.

TENSION 1 pattern repeat measures and 7 rows measure 11x11cm (4¼x4¼in) over chevron pattern WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 53


Bee my baby Hook a wonderfully whimsical hexie honeycomb blanket for baby. Designed by Becca Parker.


EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

DROPS Cotton Merino (50% wool, 50% cotton, 50g/110m), 3 balls of each: Yarn A Light Grey (20), Yarn B Vanilla (17) Yarn C Mustard Yellow (15), 1 ball of Yarn D Grey (19) 2 balls of Yarn E White (01) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Tapestry needle For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Each hexagon measures 8cm (3in) diameter Blanket measures 88x76cm (34½x30in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

Pink for a girl and blue for a boy? Pah! Say hello to grellow, the cool combo of grey and yellow. We’re buzzing about it. And what could be sweeter than welcoming a babe with a happy honeycomb blanket? BLANKET

HEXAGON MOTIF (MAKE 91) Make 28 in Yarn A, 31 in Yarn B and 32 in Yarn C. Ch6, join with a ss to form a ring. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr into ring, ch1, (3tr into ring, ch1) 5 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [18 tr and 6 ch-1 sps] Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next st, 2tr in next st, ch1, skip ch-1 sp, (2tr in next st, tr in next st, 2tr in next st, ch1, skip ch-1 sp) 5 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [30 tr, 6 ch-1 sps] Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each of next 3 sts, 2tr in next st, ch1, skip ch-1 sp, (2tr into next st, tr in each of next 3 sts, 2tr into next st, ch1, skip ch-1 sp) 5 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [42 tr, 6 ch-1 sps] TO MAKE UP Block hexagons to measurements. Using the image as a guide, arrange the hexagons together in a hexagon shape so there is an even balance of all three shades. You will have six hexagons along each of the six sides. Using Yarn E, place the hexagons WS together and join with a dc seam, working 2dc into each of the corner sps where hexagons meet. Weave in ends as you go. Fasten off and weave in any rem ends.

EDGING Using Yarn E, dc into each st around edge of large hexagon, working 2dc into every corner st. Fasten off and weave in end. DAISIES (MAKE 6) Using Yarn B, ch6, join with a ss to form a ring. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 10dc into ring, ss to first dc to join. [12 dc] Fasten off. Round 2 Join Yarn E into any dc with a ss, *(dc, 3tr, dc) in next dc, ss in next st; repeat from * 5 more times. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew the wings on securely, but leave the ends free to flutter for a bit of playful texture.

change colour. Instead, carry the unused yarn along the back of the work, trapping it inside the dc sts as you work. Using Yarn D, ch4. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [3 dc] Row 2 Join Yarn C in first st, ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each dc across, turn. Row 3 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in next st, 2dc in next st, turn. [5 dc] Rows 4-5 Using Yarn D, ch1, dc in each dc across, turn. Rows 6-7 Using Yarn C, ch1, dc in each dc across, turn. Row 8 Using Yarn D, ch1, dc in each dc across, turn. [5 dc] Row 9 Skip first 2 sts, 8tr into 3rd st, ss into last dc. asten off and weave in all ends.

BEE WINGS (MAKE 6) Using Yarn E, ch4, ss in first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 Ch2 (counts as htr), (7htr, tr, dtr, 1tr, 3htr) into ring, ss to top of beg ch-2 with a ss. Fasten off. TO FINISH Using Yarn B and the image as a guide, sew the six daisies securely onto the blanket and weave in ends. Arrange the three bees around the centre of the blanket using the image as a guide. Using Yarn D, sew them in place. Sew dotted lines with running stitch in Yarn D to make a loop trail behind each of the bees. Using Yarn E, sew the wings onto the bees, leaving the ends free to flutter if you wish.

BEES

BEE BODY (MAKE 3) Do not fasten off at the end of each row to Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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True colours Bring on a rainbow cascade of shades with a breathtaking Bargello bag by Michelle Westlund.


GO PRO DK 3.5MM, 4MM WEIGHT & 4.5MM

YOU WILL NEED Q

Stylecraft Special DK (100% acrylic, 100g/295m), 1 ball of Graphite (1063) and approx 20g of each: Yarn A Cloud Blue (1019) Yarn B Turquoise (1068) Yarn C Empire (1829) Yarn D Bluebell (1082) Yarn E Fondant (1241) Yarn F Fuchsia Purple (1827) Yarn G Tomato (1723) Yarn H Spice (1711) Yarn I Citron (1263) Yarn J Grass Green (1821) Yarn K Kelly Green (1826) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) crochet hook Q A 4mm (US G/6) crochet hook Q A 4.5mm (US 7) crochet hook Q Stitch markers Q 4 buttons in bright colours, 2.5cm (1in) For yarn stockists contact Stylecraft 01535 609798 www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk

This impressive wave pattern bag is inspired by the Bargello needlepoint technique. Clever designer Michelle is half of Crochet Between Worlds, a blog shared between friends in Germany and Australia.

NOTES The bag is worked from the base upwards, initially in rows of dc and then in rounds. BASE Using Graphite and a 4.5mm hook, 44fdc, turn. [44 sts] Rows 2-11 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn. [44dc] Row 12 (RS) Ch1, dc in each st across to last st, do not turn. [44dc] Round 13 Rotate to work into the row ends, dc in each row end across to last row end, 2dc in last row end, rotate to work along the opposite side of Row 1, dc in each fdc across to last st, 2dc in last st, rotate to work into the row ends, dc in each row end across to last row end, 2dc in last row end, rotate to work along Row 12, dc in each dc across to last st, 2dc in last st, ss to first st to join. [116 dc]

LOWER BODY Rounds 1-4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. [116 dc] Fasten off.

TENSION

BODY – BARGELLO WAVE

18 sts and 12 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over tr using a 3.5mm hook

When adding in the next colour, do not fasten off previous colour, pull up a loop to prevent the stitches unravelling or add a stitch marker. You may also find it useful to secure the ball of yarn to the Bag using a stitch marker or safety pin. All colours are worked simultaneously for the Body of the Bag. To achieve this you will need to measure 4 x 5m lengths of each colour and wind each one into a ball. [44 balls]

MEASUREMENTS Approx 34x20cm (13½x8in) excluding handles when laid flat

ABBREVIATIONS Sstr Stacked standing treble crochet Join yarn in st indicated, ch1 and pull tight, dc in same st, insert hook under the 2 left-most strands of the dc just made, yrh and complete a second dc For a full list, see page 92

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Round 1 (RS) Using the Chart as a guide and using a 3.5mm hook, join Yarn K in any st in Row 4 of Lower Body, *sstr in same st, do not fasten off, join Yarn J in next st, sstr in same st, do not fasten off, join Yarn I in next st, sstr in same st, tr in next st, do not fasten off, join Yarn H in next st, sstr in same st, tr in next st, do not fasten off, join Yarn G in next st, sstr in same st, tr in each of next 2 sts, do not fasten off, join Yarn F in next st, sstr in same st, tr in each of next 3 sts, do not fasten off, join Yarn E in next

st, sstr in same st, tr in each of next 4 sts, do not fasten off, join Yarn D in next st, sstr in same st, tr in each of next 3 sts, do not fasten off, join Yarn C in next st, sstr in same st, tr in each of next 2 sts, do not fasten off, join Yarn B in next st, sstr in same st, tr in next st, do not fasten off, join Yarn A in next st, sstr in same st, tr in next st, do not fasten off, join Yarn K in next st; repeat from * 3 more times, do not join Yarn K at end of final repeat. [116 sts] Round 2 (RS) Continue with Yarn A, *ss in first st, sstr in same st, do not fasten off, pick up Yarn K, ss to next st, sstr in same st, do not fasten off, pick up Yarn J, ss to next st, sstr in same st, tr in next st, do not fasten off, pick up Yarn I, ss to next st, sstr in same st, tr in next st, do not fasten off, pick up Yarn H, ss to next st, sstr in same st, tr in each of next 2 sts, do not fasten off, pick up Yarn G, ss to next st, sstr in same st, tr in each of next 3 sts, do not fasten off, pick up Yarn F, ss to next st, sstr in same st, tr in each of next 4 sts, do not fasten off, pick up Yarn E, ss to next st, sstr in same st, tr in each of next 3 sts, do not fasten off, pick up Yarn D, ss to next st, sstr in same st, tr in each of next 2 sts, do not fasten off, pick up Yarn C, ss to next st, sstr in same st, tr in next st, do not fasten off, pick up Yarn B, ss to next st, sstr in same st, tr in next st, do not fasten off, pick up Yarn A; repeat from * 3 more times, do not join Yarn A at end of final repeat. [116 sts] Round 2 sets pattern but to create the Bargello effect, the first colour used moves one step over with each new round. The last colour of the previous round becomes the first colour used in the next round. Round 3 begins with Yarn B and moves through Yarn A to K, J, I, H, G, F, E, D, ending with Yarn C. Yarn C then becomes the first colour used in Round 4 and this pattern continues through the Body. Rounds 3-13 Repeat Round 2 using the last colour of the previous round to start each new round. Round 14 Repeat Round 2 fastening off each colour as you go.

UPPER BODY Round 1 Using a 4.5mm hook, join Graphite in any st in Round 14 of Bargello Wave, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st around, ss to first dc to join. [116 dc] Rounds 2-6 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 57


barg o bag in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. Round 7 Ch1 (counts as ss), ss in next dc and each dc around, ss to beg ch-1 to join. Fasten off. HANDLES (MAKE 2) Row 1 Using a 4mm hook and Graphite and leaving a long (50cm) tail, 50fdc, turn. Rows 2-9 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn. [50 dc] Fasten off, leaving a long tail (50cm). TO FINISH Fold each Handle in half lengthways. Starting in the 10th stitch from one end, stitch the long edges together, finishing in the 10th stitch from the other end. Make sure you weave the ends in securely.

Lay the Bag flat and mark the centre stitch on both top edges with a stitch marker. Now count 8 sts to the left of the stitch marker and insert another marker, and 8 sts to the right and mark that stitch as well, then remove the original centre marker. You should have 17 sts between the stitch markers on the long sides, 4 sts marked, and 41 sts around each end.

Key

Pin the Handles in place aligning the inner edges with the stitch markers and the lower edges with the bottom of the Upper Body. Using Graphite, sew the Handles securely to the bag using back st around the edges of the Handles.

Slip Stitch (ss)

Stitch the buttons to the centre of each handle join.

Stacked Standing Treble Cr

Cloud Blue

Tomato

Turquoise

Spice

Empire

Citron

Bluebell

Grass Green

Fondant

Kelly Green

Fuchsia

Double Crochet (dc)

Treble Crochet (tr)

Round 14 Round 13 Round 12 Round 11 Round 10 Round 9 Round 8 Round 7 Round 6 Round 5 Round 4 Round 3 Round 2 Round 1

29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 58 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1


Win the yan to make the winning project! Ente by voting fo you fave on Intagram #hooktohook @simpl cochet

win

hook to hook

Flower garden

We challenged two designers to come up with a fab design, each using the same yarn… which is your fave?

“When I first saw this yarn I immediately thought how beautiful it was. I wanted to make my shawl just as lovely, using pretty stitch patterns, but without over-complicating it, as I really wanted to let the colours of the yarn speak for themselves. The rich, vibrant hues remind me of my garden, which is where I got my inspiration from – the last of this year’s flowers are still popping up in their beds, the hardy little things!”You’ll find more of Megan’s pretty crochet designs on www.ravelry.com.

Kate Alinari “My Bougainvillea Shawl is inspired by the plant, with its delicate flowers. For me, bougainvillea means holidays, travelling and tropical countries. With my shawl I wanted to emulate summer colours, so you can wrap yourself in a warm hug of flowers. I’m trying to grow a bougainvillea in my garden in Italy – it’s not big, but it’s growing. I’m looking forward to seeing its flowers next summer.” Find out more about Kate’s inspirations, and her amusing alien companion Tipo Strano, on page 98.

Made in association with Designer Yarns. For stockists contact www.designeryarns.uk.com 01535 664222

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Image of Kate Alinara, copyright of Marila Manger.

Megan Hocking


hook to hook

Psst

imum Fo  ma x h you  ni beauty, fi blocking by lacew o  k From left: the self-striping DY Choice Apollo yarn is the perfect choice for Megan’s show-stopping triangular shawl – check out the other colourways too; the shawl is worked in a combination of cluster stitches which add lacy, colourful interest throughout the pattern.

delphinium shawl

First choose your flowers! Use a clever mix of spaced trebles and cluster stitches to make Megan’s beautiful shawl. Q DY Choice Apollo (85% acrylic, 15% wool, 300g/870m), 1 ball of Mars (05) Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook

TENSION First 7 rows to measure 18x10cm (7x4in) at widest point

MEASUREMENTS 110x70cm (43x28in)

ABBREVIATIONS 4-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 4 times, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 5 loops on hook 5-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 5 times, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 6 loops on hook For a full list, see page 92

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NOTES Ch3 at the beginning of a row counts as first tr unless otherwise indicated. The ch-sp at the centre point of the shawl will be referred to as ‘point’ throughout. SHAWL Make a magic loop. Row 1 Working into loop, ch3, 4tr, ch2, 5tr, turn. [10tr and ch-2 at point] Row 2 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr in each st across to point, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in point, tr in each st across to last st, 2tr in last st, turn. [16tr] Row 3 Ch4 (counts as tr, and ch1), tr in st at base of ch, ch1, skip next st, *tr in next st, ch1, skip next st; repeat from * across to point, (tr, ch2, tr) in point, **ch1, skip next st, tr in next st; repeat from ** across to last 2 sts, ch1, skip next st, (tr, ch1, tr) in last st, turn. [12 tr] Row 4 Repeat Row 2 (counting each ch-1 sp as a st). Row 5 Repeat Row 3. Rows 6-7 Repeat Row 2 (counting each ch-1 sp as a st). Row 8 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch, ss in next st, *skip next st, 5tr in next st, skip next st, ss in next st; repeat from * to point, 5tr in point, ss in next st, **skip next st, 5 tr in

next st, skip next st, ss in next st; repeat from ** to last st, 3tr in last st, turn. [11 5-tr groups, 2 3-tr groups] Row 9 Ch3 (counts as dc, ch2), tr in next ss, ch2, *dc in third tr of next 5-tr group, ch2, tr in next ss, ch2; repeat from * across fan at side, (dc, ch2, dc) in third tr of 5-tr group at point, **ch2, tr in next ss, ch2, dc in third tr of next 5-tr group; repeat from ** to end, turn. Row 10 Ch2, htr in st at base of ch, *2htr in next ch-2 sp, htr in next st, next ; repeat from * to dc before point, htr in next dc, (2htr, ch2, 2htr) in point, **htr in next st, 2 htr in next ch-2 sp; repeat from ** to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. Row 11 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr in each st across to point, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in point, tr in each st across to last st, 2tr in last st, turn. Row 12 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip next st, tr in next st, *ch1, skip next st, tr in next st; repeat from * across to point, ch3, skip point, tr in next st, **ch1, skip next st, tr in next st; repeat from ** across to end, turn. [44 tr] Row 13 Ch3, tr in each st across to point, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in point, tr in each st across to last st, tr in last st, turn. Row 14 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch, *skip next st, ss in next st, skip next st, 5tr in next st; repeat from * across to point, ss in point,


hook to hook

From left: Megan’s design is cleverly worked in one piece, all enabled by the fab yarn – there’s no sewing to be done here; the pattern starts with the yoke of the shawl, shown above. The aran-weight yarn soon grows, and the shawl is completed with the satisfying-to-stitch scalloped edge.

**5tr in next st, skip next st, ss in next st, skip next st; repeat from ** across to last st, 3tr in last st, turn. [22 5-tr groups, 2 3-tr groups] Row 15 Ch3 (counts as dc, ch2), *tr in next ss, ch2, dc in third tr of next 5-tr group, ch2; repeat from * across to ss at point, (tr, ch2, tr) in ss at point, ch2, **dc in third tr of next 5-tr group, ch2, tr in next ss, ch2; repeat from ** to last 3-tr group, dc in last tr, turn. Row 16 Ch2 (counts as htr), *2 htr in next ch-2 sp, *htr in next st, 2htr in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last st before point, skip last st, (2htr, ch2, 2htr) in point, skip next st, next , **2 htr in next ch-2 sp, htr in next st; repeat from ** across to end, turn. Row 17 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), *skip next st, tr in next st, ch1; repeat from *across to 2 sts before point, skip 2 sts, (tr, ch2, tr) in point, ch1, skip 2 sts, **tr in next st, ch1, skip next st; repeat from ** across to last st, tr in last st, turn. Row 18 Ch3, tr in each st and sp across to one st before point, skip next st, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in point, skip next st, tr in each st and sp to end. Row 19 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), *skip next st, tr in next st, ch1; repeat from *across to 3 sts before point, skip 3 sts, (tr, ch2, tr) in point, ch1, skip 3 sts, **tr in next st, ch1, Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

skip next st; repeat from ** across to last st, tr in last st, turn. Row 20 Repeat Row 18. Row 21 Ch2, htr in each st across to point, (htr, ch2, htr) in point, htr in each st across to end, turn. Row 22 Ch4 (counts as dc, ch3), skip 2sts, *dc in next st, ch3, skip 2 sts; repeat from * across to point, (dc, ch3, dc) in point, **ch3, skip 2 sts, dc in next st; repeat from ** to end, turn. [49 ch-3 sps] Row 23 Ch4 (counts as dc, ch3), dc in first ch-sp, *ch5, dc in next ch-sp; repeat from * to end, ch3, dc in last st, turn. [50 loops] Row 24 Ch3, 3tr in first ch-sp, ss in next ch-sp, *5tr in next ch-sp, ss in next ch-sp; repeat from * to last ch-sp before point, 5tr in next ch-sp, ch2 (for point), **5tr in next ch-sp, ss in next sp; repeat from ** to last ch-sp, 3tr in last ch-sp, tr in last st, turn. Row 25 Ch4 (counts as dc, ch3), *tr in next ss, ch3, dc in 3rd tr of 5-tr group, ch3; repeat from * across to point, (tr, ch2, tr) in point, ch3, **dc in 3rd tr of 5-tr group, ch3, tr in next ss, ch3; repeat from ** to last st, dc in last st, turn. Row 26 Ch3, 4tr in each ch-sp across to point, (tr, ch3, tr) in point, 4tr in each ch-sp across to last st, tr in last st, turn. Row 27 Ch2, htr in each st across to last st

before point, skip 1 st, (htr, ch2, htr) in point, skip 1 st, htr in each st across to end, turn. Row 28 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch, skip next st, *ss in next st, skip next st, 5tr in next st, skip next st; repeat from * across to point, ss in point, skip next st, **5tr in next st, skip next st, ss in next st, skip next st; repeat from ** across to last st, 3tr in last st, turn. [50 5-tr groups, 2 3-tr group] Row 29 Repeat Row 15. Row 30 Ch3, next, *2tr in next ch-sp, tr in next st; repeat from * across to point, (tr, ch2, tr) in point, tr in next st, **2tr in next ch-sp, tr in next st; repeat from ** across to end, turn. Row 31 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip 1 st, *tr in next st, ch1, skip 1 st; repeat from * across to point, (tr, ch2, tr) in point, **ch1, skip 1 st, tr in next st; repeat from ** across to end, turn. Row 32 Ch3, tr in each st and ch-sp across to last st before point, skip 1 st, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in point, skip 1 st, tr in each st and ch-sp across to end, turn. Row 33 Repeat Row 31. Row 34 Repeat Row 32. Row 35 Ch2, htr in each st across to last st before point, skip 1 st, (2htr, ch2, 2htr) in point, skip 1 st, htr in each st across to end, turn. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 61


hook to hook

Psst

at nd leave th a p u  e y a L hind! bulky coat be

From left: the right-angled triangle pennant shape of the shawl is stitched in a combination of stitches, including canework to give a beautiful open effect; use a tassel maker or a piece of card folded in half to make the tassels – making them as long or short as you prefer to wear.

Row 36 Repeat Row 8. [53 5-tr groups, 2 3-tr groups] Row 37 Repeat Row 9. Row 38 Ch3, 2tr in each ch-sp across to point, (tr, ch2, tr) in point, 2tr in each ch-sp across to last st, tr in last st, turn. Row 39 Repeat Row 31. Row 40 Repeat Row 38. Row 41 Ch2, htr in each st across to point, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in point, htr in each st across to end, turn. Rows 42-46 Repeat Rows 22-26. Rows 47-50 Repeat Rows 31-32 twice. Row 51 Repeat Row 41. Row 52 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch, skip next st, *ss in next st, skip next st, 5tr in next st, skip next st; repeat from * across to point, [ss, 5tr, ss] in point, skip next st, **5tr in next st, skip next st, ss in next st, skip next st; repeat from ** across to last st, 3tr in last st, turn. [81 5-tr groups, 2 3-tr groups] Row 53 Repeat Row 9. Row 54 Repeat Row 30. Row 55 Repeat Row 41. Row 56 Ch6 (counts as dtr, ch2), 4-tr cluster in fourth ch of initial ch6, (dtr, ch2, 4-tr cluster in top of dtr just made) twice in st at base of ch6, skip 4 sts, ss in next st, skip next st, *5-tr cluster, skip 2sts, dtr, (ch2, 4-tr cluster in top of dtr, dtr in same st as previous dtr) four times, ch2, 4-tr cluster in top of dtr, skip 3 sts, ss in next st, skip next 62 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

st; repeat from * to last 8 sts, skip 2 sts, 5-tr cluster, skip 3 sts, dtr, (ch2, 4-tr cluster in top of dtr, dtr in same st as previous dtr) three times. [36 fans, 2 half fans] Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Block to a neat triangle shape.

bougainvillea shawl

“The pinks, purples and oranges of bougainvillea flowers remind me of tropical countries and colourful landscapes,” says designer Kate Alinari. Q DY Choice Apollo (85% acrylic, 15% wool, 300g/870m), 1 ball of Mars (05)) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Clover large tassel maker or 20x20cm (7¾x7¾in) piece of cardboard Q 10 stitch markers

TENSION 18sts x 8 rows (blocked) to measure 10x10cm (4X4in) over tr using a 4mm hook

MEASUREMENTS 180cmx72cm (70¾x28¼in)

ABBREVIATIONS Canework st Yrh twice, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and pull through 2 loops, (you will have 3 loops on your hook),

keeping these 3 loops on your hook, skip next st, tr in next st, (yrh and pull through 2 loops) twice, ch1, tr in the front loop and next loop of last tr worked For a full list, see page 92

NOTES The shawl has a right angle triangle shape. It’s worked in rows, turning every row. Make the body first, then work the border and finally sew the tassels. Make the turning chs loosely to ensure the edging is not too tight. The shawl is made alternating tr sections and Canework st sections. The following instructions show how to make the shawl as shown, but you can personalise yours by increasing or decreasing the number of rows in each section. SHAWL BODY The body is worked from a corner, starting with a few sts and increasing every two rows. All odd rows are increase rows. See our website for an example of Canework stitch. Row 1 Ch3 (counts as a tr throughout), tr in third ch from hook, turn. Row 2 Ch3, tr in each st across, turn. Row 3 Ch3, 2tr in first st, tr in each st across, turn. Rows 4-27 Repeat (Rows 2 and 3) 12 times. [28 tr] Row 28 Ch4 (counts as a st throughout), dtr in next st, work Canework st across to last 2


hook to hook

From left: Kate’s swatches demontrate the Canework sections of the shawl (though you may not want to sit outside this time of year!); the pattern is simple to adapt to suit your preferences – simply increase or decrease the number of rows of Canework to adjust the size and look.

sts, dtr in each of the last 2 sts, turn. Row 29 Ch4, 2dtr in first st, ch1, dtr in next st, work Canework st across to last 2 sts, dtr in each of last 2 sts, turn. Row 30 Ch4, dtr in next st, work Canework st across to last 2 sts, dtr in each of last 2 sts. [9 Canework sts] Rows 31-32 Repeat Rows 29-30. Row 33 Ch3, 2tr in first st, tr in each st and ch-1 sp across, turn. Rows 34-61 Repeat (Rows 2 and 3) 14 times. [64 tr] Row 62 Repeat Row 28. [20 Canework sts] Rows 63-66 Repeat (Rows 29 and 30) twice. Row 67 Repeat Row 33. Rows 68-75 Repeat (Rows 2 and 3) four times. [80 tr] Row 76 Ch4, dtr in next st, work Canework st across to last 3 sts, skip 1 st, dtr in each of the last 2 sts, turn. [25 Canework sts] Rows 77-80 Repeat (Rows 29 and 30) twice. Row 81 Repeat Row 33. Rows 82-103 Repeat (Row 2 and 3) 11 times. [109 tr] Row 104 Repeat Row 28. [35 Canework sts] Rows 105-108 Repeat (Rows 29 and 30) twice. Row 109 Repeat Row 33. Rows 110-113 Repeat Rows (2 and 3) twice. [121 tr] Row 114 Repeat Row 28. [39 Canework sts] Rows 115-118 Repeat Rows (29 and 30) twice. Row 119 Repeat Row 33. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Row 120 Repeat Row 2. [129 tr]

BORDER Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), dc in each st across to last st, *(2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next st for corner, working across edge, 2dc in each tr row edge and 3dc in each dtr row edge to next corner; repeat from * once, (2dc, ch1, 1dc) in same st as first st of round for last corner, ss to first dc to join, turn. Round 2 Ch1, dc in each of first 2 sts, *(2dc, ch1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp, dc in each st across to next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around to first dc, ss in first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. TASSELS (MAKE 3) Use the remaining or similar yarn and a 20x20cm (7¾x7¾in) piece of cardboard folded in half or a large Clover tassel maker in

position 4 (second largest position). Wrap the yarn 15 times around the cardboard or tassel maker, cut yarn, leaving a 20cm (7¾in) length. Remove from board and wrap the 20cm (7¾in) length around centre of looped yarn 3 times, tie a knot and wrap twice more, use the remaining length of this yarn to sew onto the shawl later. Fold the tassel in half (with knot hidden), neatly wrap a new length of yarn starting about 2cm (1in) from the top to desired width, then secure the ends and trim the bottom. TO FINISH Wet block. Weave all the ends. Join one tassel in each corner with a knot. For stockist details contact Designer Yarns www.designeryarns.uk.com or call 01535 664222.

DY CHOICE APOLLO Inspired by the Greek and Roman god, DY Choice Apollo is a wonderfully vibrant yarn which has long colour repeats to create fun stripes. Perfect for scarves, shawls and cardis, it’s soft and warm, with 15% wool blended with 85% acrylic, and it’s machine washable too. Apollo comes in a range of 10 striking colours, from the dazzling Mars used in our projects here, to the turquoise stripes of Aqua and the golden blends of Demeter. Simply beautiful!

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Keep winter at bay with a beautifully braided cosy hat in rich, fiery shades. By Lucy Croft.


A BIT TRICKY ARAN WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

Beautiful braiding makes this beanie a real stand-out piece. Worked in three rich, contrasting shades in high quality merino aran yarn, it’s a cheerful cracker of a hat. Set yourself a challenge to add a touch of vibrant colour to grey days.

YOU WILL NEED

NOTES

Q

The Hat Brim is worked in short rows of crochet ribbing and then seamed. The Main Hat is worked in rounds working into the row ends of the Brim. Each round is a different colour working through Yarns A to C. The hat is worked from the brim up to the crown using a braided crochet technique. The basic braiding technique is very simple – you just pull one loop through another loop from the bottom to the top. You can braid your lengths as you work or braid them all at the end.

Debbie Bliss Falkland Aran (100% merino, 100g/180m), 1 skein of each: Yarn A Claret (14) Yarn B Ginger (06) Yarn C Mustard (07) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Stitch markers For yarn stockists contact Designer Yarns 01535 664222 www.designeryarns.uk.com

ABBREVIATIONS tr3tog (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 3 times, yrh and draw through all loops on hook. For a full list, see page 92

BRAID TECHNIQUE TUTORIAL For a tutorial on how to work the Braid Technique, go the our website: www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/ category/tutorials

BRAID TECHNIQUE Step 1 Start by taking the first chain length you worked (at the bottom of the fabric) and twist it to form a loop. You can either do this with your fingers or insert your hook to create the twist. Step 2 Use the hook to grab the next loop up. Step 3 Use the hook to pull the second loop through the first loop on the hook. Step 4 Gently pull upwards on the second loop to ease the first loop into place at the base of the second loop, using your fingers if you need to. Step 5 Repeat Steps 2-4 until you reach the final loop. The braid should be strong enough to hold its shape temporarily, or place a stitch marker in the final loop to secure the braid. Now you just need to secure the final loop following the pattern. HAT

BRIM Using Yarn A, Ch8 (9: 10). Row 1 Working in back loops only, dc in

SIZE

The braids radiate out neatly from the crown, and you can complete these right at the end.

second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [7 (8: 9) dc] Row 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), working in back loops only, dc in first dc and each de across, turn. Rows 3-71 (79: 87) Repeat Row 2. Fold the Brim so that the right side is facing out and the starting ch and the last Row meet. Next Row Ss in each st across working sts through the back loops only of the last row worked and the front loops only of the starting chain. [72 (80: 88) Rows] Do not fasten off.

HEAD Rotate Brim to work into the row ends. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in end of first row, *(ch1, skip end of next row, dc in end of next row) 3 times, ch7, skip end of next row, dc in end of next row; repeat from * around, omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join. [36 (40: 44) dc and 36 (40: 44) ch-sps] Fasten off. Round 3 Join Yarn C in first tr, ch3 (counts

Toddler

Child

Adult

50.5

56

TO FIT HEAD CIRCUMFERENCE

cm

45.5

in

18

20

22

ACTUAL CIRCUMFERENCE

cm

40.5

45.5

50.5

in

16

18

20

cm

17

18.5

20

in

8

DEPTH

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column. 66 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM


as tr), *tr in each of next 6 tr, ch6, skip next ch-6 sp, tr in next tr, repeat from * around, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [9 (10: 11) 7-tr groups and 9 (10: 11) ch-6 sps] Fasten off. Rounds 4-6 (7: 8) Repeat Round 3 three (four: five) more times working each round in a different colour through Yarns A to C.

Braid all your chains before working the final round.

CROWN Continue working in colour pattern. Round 1 Join Yarn A (B: C) in first tr, ch2, tr in next tr (counts as first tr2tog), *tr in next 3 tr, tr2tog, ch6, skip next ch-6 sp, tr2tog; repeat from * around omitting last tr2tog, ss to top of first tr2tog to join, fasten off. Round 2 Join Yarn B (C: A) in first tr, ch3 (counts as tr), *tr in each of next 4 sts, ch6, skip next ch-6 sp, tr in next st; repeat from * around, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 3 Join Yarn C (A: B) in first tr, ch3 (counts as tr), *tr in each of next 4 sts, ch6, skip next ch-6 sp, tr in next st; repeat from * around, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 4 Join Yarn A (B: C) in first tr, ch2, tr in next tr (counts as first tr2tog), *tr in next tr, tr2tog, ch6, skip next ch-6 sp, tr2tog; repeat from * around omitting last tr2tog, ss to top of first tr2tog to join, fasten off. Round 5 Join Yarn B (C: A) in first tr, ch3 (counts as tr), *tr in each of next 2 sts, ch6, skip next ch-6 sp, tr in next st; repeat from * around, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 6 Join Yarn C (A: B) in first tr, ch3 (counts as tr), *tr in each of next 2 sts, ch6, skip next ch-6 sp, tr in next st; repeat from * around, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 7 Join Yarn A (B: C) in first tr, ch2, tr2tog (counts as first tr3tog), ch1, skip next ch-6 sp, *tr3tog, ch1, skip next ch-6 sp; repeat from * around, ss to top of first tr2tog to join, fasten off. Before working the final round, you need to braid all your ch-sps. Start by twisting the first ch-7 sp in Round 1, insert your hook through the loop and pick up the next loop up and pull through gently into place, insert your hook through this loop and pick up the next loop up and pull through, continue pulling through the next loop up until you reach the final loop. You may wish to place a st marker on the final loop while you work the other braids on the hat. Once all loops have been Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

braided continue with Round 8. Round 8 Join Yarn B (C: A) by inserting hook through first ch-6 sp of Round 6 and into first ch-1 sp of Round 7, pick up yarn, ch3 (counts as tr), skip next tr3tog, *inserting hook through next ch-6 sp, tr in next ch-1 sp of Round 7, skip next tr3tog; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off leaving a long tail. Weave long tail through all sts in Round 8 and pull tight to close. Weave in all ends.

SAVE OR SPLURGE For a more budget-friendly make, you could use Knitpicks Swish Worsted (100% merino, 50g/110m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Serrano (24663), Yarn B Allspice (24297), Yarn C Honey (26066) For stockists contact Knitpicks www.knitpicks.com

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Mindfulness is the gateway to a less stressful life, but did you know that with crochet you might already be practising it? We find out more‌


GOOD READ

From left: Dr Caroline Hough runs mindfulness workshops; as you crochet,“occasionally look at the yarn and notice how it feels,” Caroline suggests.

M

indfulness has been big news recently. With our hectic lives reaching critical levels of overload we all need to pause occasionally and notice just how spectacular that particular assortment of clouds looks diffused against the sunset. And we don’t mean so you can snap an image and post it to Instagram, Facebook or your preferred social media channel. In fact, mindfulness is the antithesis of all that clamour. “Mindfulness is about raising our awareness,” says mindfulness practitioner, life coach and former GP, Dr Caroline Hough. “It involves paying attention on purpose in the present moment, while being fully aware of your external and internal environment.” The internal environment, she explains, is about your state of mind and stress level at that time. “The really important thing about mindfulness is how it allows you to balance mind and body. The body will always bring you back to the present. Mindfulness helps you to train your attention.” IN THE PRESENT MOMENT Quite simply, it’s about noticing simply for the pleasure of noticing. Cognitive behavioural therapist and mindfulness trainer Ali Binns (www.alibinns.co.uk) tells us: “Mindfulness is a deliberate choice to focus on what you are experiencing in terms of thoughts, feelings, sensations, and surroundings in the present moment, in an accepting and non-judgemental way.” Ali explains that we habitually go about our days on autopilot without being aware that’s what we’re doing. “When we’re on autopilot, we’re going through the motions of life, getting things done – we get stuck in ‘doing mode’,” she says. “Mindfulness Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

helps us to make a shift to being present in the world.” Being mindful can help to reduce our general anxiety. “Our wonderful minds have a habit of spending a lot of our time thinking, worrying and second-guessing about the future, or going over the past, often worrying, or regretting, and ruminating,” says Ali. “Practising mindfulness is a way of training our minds to return to the present moment. Over time, when we become more aware of our mind’s habits, we can then choose which thoughts are helpful to listen to, and which are not. In turn, this can lead to less stress and a greater sense of calm.” It’s an ability that only gets stronger with time and practice. “We know that the way we think impacts on our feelings, so becoming aware and having a choice about whether we buy into some of our mind chatter can improve our mood,” says Ali. There are other advantages to mindfulness too. “It’s been clinically proven to reduce low mood and has many therapeutic benefits,” says Ali. “Mindful eating can help with healthy weight control, while mindful practices can help you to feel more connected to others and more at ease in the world.” The good news is that as a crocheter, you’re already a natural at paying attention purposefully. “Introducing mindfulness to crafting is a great idea because you get a double whammy effect,” says Ali. “Not only are you taking time out doing something you

love, which is a healthy element of self-care, but combined with a few simple techniques to enhance mindful attention, you get even more from it.” P L AY I N G A N D D O I N G Kate O’Sullivan is the blogger and maker behind the A Playful Day podcasts (www. aplayfulday.com). She believes that crafting and mindfulness go hand in hand. “I think crafting is naturally a mindful hobby, depending on what you choose to make,” she says. “It can be stressful and frustrating when things don’t go right, but that in itself is a lesson in perseverance and patience. The rhythm of it, the pace of it, and the learning new skills aspect all add up to a mindful and gentle experience.” San Franciscobased crocheter and writer Kathryn Vercillo (www. kathrynvercillo.com) began crocheting during a time in her life when she was grappling with debilitating depression. “I began to see the health benefits of crochet and naturally leaned towards using it in a mindful way,” she says. “I had started yoga and breathing meditation around the same time and it all kind of came together for me as a holistic healing process.” When she wrote her first book on the topic, Crochet Saved My Life, Kathryn had the opportunity to research the health benefits of crafting. “I found out how others were using crochet in a meditative or mindful way, which broadened my own experience of it.”

“As a crocheter you’re already a natural at paying attention purposefully.”

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Clockwise from top: Kate O’Sullivan from A Playful Day advocates looking for moments when you can be present; Alison Hoffman crochets a repetitive blanket to relax; mindfulness trainer Ali Binns; designer Fran Morgan finds crochet soothing and meditative.

of a blanket,” says the Texas-based doll maker. “The repetitive motion is almost therapeutic, and is far removed from the small detail work I have to do with my dolls.” The space where you choose to sit down with your crochet can also add to or detract from your mindfulness experience. For Kate, this is particularly true. “I am a person who needs to feel calm in the space I’m in,” she says. “To me that means no clutter or nagging chores. I treat myself to downtime crafting once I’ve bustled about and cleaned up a bit. It’s just the way I tick, I think.”

To get the best possible from your crafting experience, choose your project with care. “I get so much joy from a project that has a pleasing rhythm,” Kate says. “A pattern repeat throughout a shawl or blanket clicks along nicely once you’ve memorised it. I often get to a favourite ‘stitch’ and it feels good every time I connect with that part.” It’s clear that some types of projects aid with mindfulness more than others. Ideally you want something that requires a calming repetitive motion. Mandalas work particularly well for this, Kathryn believes. “I believe that any crochet project can be engaged with in a mindful way, but mandalas may be particularly beneficial because they’re worked in the round,” says Kathryn. “There’s a lot of symbolism to the circle – the circle of life, the changing of seasons – and that symbolism may be beneficial to the unconscious.” You can even direct your mandala making towards the kind of mindfulness experience you feel in need of at that moment, simply by choosing a different mandala design to engage with. “Simple mandalas with easy increases allow people to engage in breathing 70 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

and counting while they work. More complex mandalas allow for intense focus and concentration,” says Kathryn. Kate, too, is a fan of mandalas. “They offer a nice 20-minute treat when I’m stressed. Just hooking my way around is soothing and, as it’s fast, those 20 minutes become a kind of palate cleanser.” RELAX INTO IT Other excellent options include any project you’re already familiar with, so can relax into. “I like working on large crochet granny squares because the process is very automatic for me,” says Kathryn. “I’m able to practise the habit of noticing when my attention is straying and bringing it back to the work.” Crochet blankets are also a great option. “If I want to relax, I’ll get out my latest granny stripe blanket,” says Simply Crochet designer Fran Morgan. “I’ve always got a blanket on the go. I love how soothing and meditative crochet can be.” Amigurumi devotee Allison Hoffman agrees. “When I’m not crocheting people and pets, I love to relax and crochet mindless rows

MINDFUL CRAFTING There are a few exercises you can introduce to your crochet time to boost the mindfulness element of your crafting. It’s key to remember that this is a skill like any other, however, so don’t berate yourself if you struggle at first. “What you will find when you are crafting is that your mind will wander off thinking about other things,” Ali says. “Each time you notice this happening, just bring your mind back to your craft.” If you’re naturally a fidget, crochet offers the respite of channelling your jumping mind. And through keeping your body moving while providing something for your mind to focus on, crochet is the ideal aid to mindfulness. “In essence, it settles you,” says Dr Caroline. “When you’re working with a crochet pattern, you’re training your attention. You can’t stop the negative thoughts that come into your mind but you can choose to move your attention back to the craft that you’re working on, and this helps the thoughts to pass.” She adds: “When you’re aware of something that enables you to have a choice. We have habits and we react to things. When we’re aware, we can choose how to respond.” Mindfulness can also serve as a means to add value to your crochet experience. “I urge people to have a beginner’s mind,” Dr Caroline says. “When you sit down to crochet, just


GOOD READ

occasionally look at the yarn and notice how it feels in your hands. We spend so much of our life in the past and future that we miss the details of the present.” You can use your senses to draw yourself in further, says Ali. “For example, sight: noticing colours, shades, tones. Hearing: noticing any sounds associated with your craft – the sound of the yarn moving on the hook, the sound of pencil on paper. Touch: noticing the feel of any tools you use. To craft mindfully you just bring your full attention to your craft over and over, and leave any thinking about the past or the future to one side.” A N D. . . B R E AT H E As a starter exercise, Ali recommends mindful breathing. “Focus your attention on each inhale and exhale, and observe the rise and fall of your chest,” says Ali. “The body scan, where you notice every part of your body, is also a good introduction to becoming more aware.” You can also fit this level of mindfulness into everyday life. “Try brushing your teeth in a mindful way, or eating your favourite snack with mindful attention,” says Ali. “Not all mindfulness exercises involve sitting down doing formal meditation – mindfulness is a really portable technique you can do any time, whatever you are doing.” Kathryn recommends finding and using your own mindfulness cues, as in the exercise on the page opposite. The crucial thing about mindfulness is that it should be a pleasure, not a chore. “Mindfulness is about rewarding yourself with the things you pay attention to,” says Dr Caroline. “I always ask people how they would teach a child to swim. You introduce them to the water in a way that’s fun and that they enjoy. It shouldn’t be daunting or a burden, and neither should mindfulness.”

Want to know more?

There are lots of books, blogs and podcasts to help you along on your mindful crafting journey. Our interviewees suggest…

• Kathryn “Besides my books [Crochet Saved My Life and Hook To Heal], I recommend Betsan Corkhill at www.stitchlinks.com” • Kat “I really enjoy Carrie Bostick Hoge (www.maddermade.com) and Natasha at www.takingamomentintime.com” • Ali ”I recommend reading Mindfulness for Creativity by Danny Penman, The Little Mindfulness Workbook by Gary Hennessey and Frazzled by Ruby Wax.”

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And if you’re concerned that your mind is too busy to allow this level of concentration at first, don’t worry. Even the briefest moments of mindfulness will develop your mindfulness and give you a moment of peace. Dr Caroline suggests making active choices about where your attention is throughout your day. “Just stop and look up at the trees or feel the sun on your face,” she says. “I’m very keen on mindfulness in everyday life, and crochet makes that terribly simple.” Kate also recommends using mindful crafting to help you to connect with and appreciate the changing seasons. “Autumn and winter just feel abundant with harvest produce, crumbles to be made, scarves to wrap around your neck,” she says. “How can you not sink into that? I am someone who really reacts to the seasons as I live in the countryside. I notice I change colour palettes to match too.” Crafts, cooking, gardening and photography all help to keep Kate anchored. “They are a usual part of each day,” she says. “I need that in my life to keep me sane! I think it’s the case though for a lot of creative people that one creative pursuit breeds another.” E V E R Y D AY L I F E You can also use the skills from your crochet practice to enrich your everyday life, even when your work-in-progress is out of reach. Enjoy that stillness, that sense of calm, and the ability to relish colours and textures. If you introduce these small processes into your crochet habit, you’ll soon realise that a really positive, enjoyable habit has taken root. “Give crochet a try, approaching it in whatever mindful, meditative or relaxing way works best for you,” says Kathryn. “There are lots of great tips and info but there are

Mindfulness cues

A mindful exercise by KathrynVercillo

A mindfulness cue is something that you keep in mind as a thing that will always bring you back to your mindfulness practice and the current moment. For example, some people get cued whenever they feel an itch and scratch themselves. They train themselves that any itch is a cue to come back into the present moment and to focus on the breath, their feelings, the sounds in the room, etc. Eventually, this becomes automatic and they find themselves regularly brought back to mindfulness. You can choose a cue that relates to your crochet. Maybe it will be every time you use a crossed double crochet. Or maybe it will be whenever it’s time to increase rows, or perhaps each time you work with a red yarn. Pick something you do frequently but not excessively so that it becomes a ritual, but not a hassle. This is an excerpt from the exercises in Kathryn’s book Crochet Saved My Life.

no ‘rules’ to this and it’s totally OK to do it your own way. Trust yourself to know what is best for you.” Kate warns us not to let the hype about mindfulness overwhelm us. “I think that mindfulness has become a bit of a buzz word,” she says. “Really, it’s about creating space for yourself to be present instead of rushing, half focusing on something and constantly being busy. It’s a change of pace. Look for those moments when you can indulge, even just a little, and grow it from there.” Written by Judy Darley

• Dr Caroline “Mindfulness: A Practical Guide to Finding Peace in a Frantic World by Mark Williams and Danny Penman is fabulous.” (Dr Caroline offers mindfulness classes and workshops in across the UK; go to www. aspiring2wellness.com) • For regular doses of advice and inspiration, In The Moment is a new monthly magazine full of feel-good features, insightful writing, mindful makes, and calming ideas for a healthy body and mind. Project Calm, published bi-monthly, is packed with stylish projects to create and keep. Find both magazines at www.calmmoment.com.

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YARN REVIEWS

y d e a e rn s w T tastic b Six fan

lends and fibres for country-style HEXAGON MOTIF

Ch12, ss to first ch to join into a ring. ROUND 1 Ch1 (does not count as dc throughout), (3dc into ring, ch2) 6 times, ss to first st. [6 3dc groups and 6 2ch-sps] ROUND 2 Ch1, *dc in next 3dc, (dc, 2ch, dc) in next 2ch-sp; rep from * five more times, ss to first st. FASTEN OFF and weave in ends.

S t it c h t h togeth e  em groovy shinto a awl!

chic.


The Women’s institute soft & smooth stylecraft tweedy WEIGHT DK CONTENT 74% acrylic, 26% cotton BALL 100g/260m HOOK 4mm RRP £4.95

WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 97% acrylic, 3% viscose SKEIN 400g/600m HOOK 5mm RRP £10

This is a soft yarn spun to create an anti-pill fibre so it stays looking fresh even after regular wear and washing. There are three new tweeds: Blue, Green and the cheerful Mustard, shown above. It’s great for winter clothing, kids’ knits and home accessories, as it’s

hard-wearing and can be machine washed and tumble dried. You get a whopping big 600m ball for your money and a donation of the price goes to the National Federation of Women’s Institutes. www.hobbycraft.co.uk 0330 026 1400

Inspired by the vivid colours found in nature, and with a pale cotton binder giving a dramatic contrast, this DK yarn is bursting with light and vibrancy. There are four shades in the range: Heather, Moss, Thistle and Bracken (pictured). The even spin results in uniform stitch

definition and the pronounced tweed gives a striking, textured effect. A lovely yarn for winter accessories, such as hats, scarves and mitts, it’s machine washable so a good practical yarn for outdoor knits. www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk 01484 848435

sublime willow

king cole indulge chunky

WEIGHT Super chunky CONTENT 94% merino, 6% nylon SKEIN 50g/125m HOOK 8mm RRP £6.49

WEIGHT Chunky CONTENT 70% acrylic, 21% polyester, 9% alpaca SKEIN 100g/230m HOOK 6mm RRP £4.09

One of the latest yarns from this luxury brand, Willow is a fabulously chunky offering with a subtle tweed effect for added texture. It’s perfect for hooking up cosy scarves and jumpers to keep you warm and snuggly this winter. The chainette yarn is air-spun, which makes it light

and comfortable to wear in different temperatures. Willow comes in six shades, ranging from the warm mustard yellow Tabitha to the soft blue Brooke, shown above. It’s machine washable on a cool wool cycle. www.sublimeyarns.com 01924 369666

With a glimmer thread running through it, King Cole’s Indulge Chunky is one of those yarns you just can’t wait to hook up to see how it looks! And with a touch of alpaca in the mix, it’s wonderfully soft – ideal for elegant cardis and shawls. Take your pick from nine gorgeous

shades, including a vibrant red Matador, a stylish burgundy Carmine, Silver Black and Copper (pictured). The hint of sparkle makes it a fab choice for party-season gear, and it’s machine washable too. www.kingcole.com 01756 703670

caron simply soft tweeds

rowan cashmere tweed

WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 97% acrylic, 3% viscose SKEIN 141g/228m HOOK 5mm RRP £5

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 80% virgin wool, 20% cashmere BALL 25g/88m HOOK 4mm RRP £7.50

If Simply Soft is already one of your go-to yarns, you’ll be delighted to hear that Caron have added three new tweed shades to the range. Perfect for blankets and throws or shawls and jumpers, Simply Soft drapes beautifully and has a lovely sheen, thanks to the Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

viscose content. The new tweed shades are Off White, Taupe and Grey Heather, shown above. Brilliantly, this yarn is not only machine washable but you can tumble dry it on low too – a definite thumbs up from us! www.readicut.co.uk 01162 713759

Fabulously luxurious, this wool and cashmere blend has a beautiful handle. It’s a very classic-looking tweed and great for outdoorsy, rustic-style knits. Choose from eight stylish shades, from the light Oats, Smoke and Camel to the richer Cinder Rose, Chocolate and

Granite (pictured above). It’s one for those special projects you want to enjoy taking your time over. You can use it with any of Rowan’s patterns for DK yarn. Hand wash only and use a cool iron if needed. www.knitrowan.com 01484 950630 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 75


Show us yours Join our gang of Treble Makers and share your thoughts and makes with us, for a chance to be featured here, use our hashtag #Sctreblemaker

TREES ARE GOOD ! ER N N WI

SWEET SPOOK

W This beautiful festive centrepiece means that Denise Emmett’s Christmas dinner table will be a stunner on 25 December. And she’s kept herself busy: not content at just one scarlet tree, she’s whipped up three! Fancy getting sorted for next year? Find the pattern in issue 63.

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his super cute make from the talented @cookiefaceana gets points for the Halloween pumpkin styling, and that’s even before we get to her devastatingly awesome Sugar Skull Doll by Ilaria Caliri from issue 62. Check out the detail on her shoes! She’s got us in pieces.

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! ER N IN

let it Snow

Now here’s a topical make, and no mistake. Katherine otherwise known as @ xfinalfantasygirlx hooked up these gorgeous snowflakes in icy white. These form part of Hannah Cross’ snowflake wreath in issue 63, but look equally beautiful on their own. Hang a few up as a festive decoration? (Imagine a tree-full!) Ooh, don’t mind if we do. And the best news is you can complete them in a jiffy. What are you waiting for? A white Christmas?

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We’ve been double tapping on Instagram and admiring your makes. Tag us @simplycrochetmag and use the hashtag #SCtreblemaker. GET LIPPY We love the shiny detailing on @haebarker’s mouthy make. This kissable mouth simply pops. Create your own pucker-tastic jewellery with Anne Egan’s design from issue 61. DRAMA LLAMA We love seeing your work in progress – and @missepowell clearly couldn’t wait to get started on this sweet llama, our popular covermount from issue 62. DEAD NICE @purpletopaz 1971 has taken our amigurumi Sugar Skull Doll from issue 62 and transformed her into this cutesome pink bride, all topped off with a groovy veil. Well, she’s a beauty!

THE LOWDOWN It’s simple to be in with a chance of winning one of three great hooky prizes next issue! Show us your Simply Crochet makes on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or via email or post by 21 December 2017. For all terms and conditions, and more information, visit www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/competitionrules

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MERRY & BRIGHT Just check out the detailing on @pepscrochet’s super stripy jumper, whipped up in double quick time. It’s a sampler design (no boredom here) with just a bit of sparkle thrown in, and we bet @peps had a ball making it. To get cracking on your own version, find Pony McTate’s fabulous design in issue 63. For more colourful inspiration, go to page 51 in this issue for Fran Morgan’s hat and scarf: a fellow colour fiend, it’s perfect for those of us with an eye for brights. Or try out your own colour combos – it’s half the fun!

This month we asked you..

TINY DANCER

Someone’s going to love you, Nicola Kelsall! This cute tutu dress from issue 63 has brought smiles all round, from your princess to SC towers.

As the year draws to a close, SD=PO PDA NOP type of project you’re planning to crochet in 2018?

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p o h s k Wor u we show yo Each iue to you new to add something skill. cocheting

Purse clasps

MASTER PURSE FRAMES FOR A STYLISH NEW EDGE. Sturdy, stylish and just a little bit retro, purse clasps are a fun way to add something new to your crochet makes. They’re surprisingly simple to use, but the finished look is polished and professional. As well as purses, you can also use these clasps to make bags, or pouches for glasses, gadgets, stationery, notions, and much more. We’ll explain the basics to get you started and then you can try making our clasped party bag on page 81. To start off, you’ll need a purse clasp frame. They come in all sorts of styles, shapes and sizes (see below), but most are made of metal with two angled sides connected by hinges. A plain, simple

paRty bag p81

frame is best for beginners and shouldn’t cost you much (we ordered ours from Scheepjes, see p82 for details). Then you’ll need some yarn and a suitable hook.

Purse frame anatomy

Let’s take the mystery out of purse frame jargon. 04 Purse sides Each half of a purse frame has holes or grooves (with or without holes) to enable you to attach the frame to the purse fabric. With frames with holes, you sew through the holes, and with frames with grooves, you use fabric glue.

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01 Clasp knobs Most are rounded in a matching metal, but some knobs are oversized, ornate, set with jewels, in a contrasting colour, in various shapes, or set over to one side.

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Pu e cl a a v a  iety ps come in of m includ ing at e  ia l  p w o od a n l a t i c , d metal 02 Frame shape A purse frame usually follows either a rounded or oval curved shape, or a square, or rectangle shape with 90-degree or rounded shoulders.

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03 Hinges The two sides of the purse frame are joined by hinges at the outer edges. A frame’s size is usually the measurement from one hinge to the other.

05 Handle options Most purse frames include an option to attach a handle. Some come with a handle built in, some have outer loops for attaching a handle (like this one), while others have hinged loops so you can decide whether to use them or not. 06 Extra decorations Some purse frames include extra ornate details, such as extra patterning in the metal, a patterned panel at the top, or sparkly touches.


how do i work out the correct size? Find out how to crochet a purse to fit any purse frame.

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The first time you use a purse frame, you might wonder how to hook the crochet fabric to fit the frame you want to use. This is much easier if you’re following a pattern because you can simply purchase and use the size of frame instructed in the pattern. However, it’s easier than you might think to crochet a piece of fabric to fit any purse frame. Step 1 The first thing to do is to measure your purse frame around the upper outside edge, as shown above (labelled A). To do this, align your tape measure with the base of one hinge. Then measure up around the top of the frame, down to the base of the other hinge. For example, this 13cm-wide frame has an A measurement of 20cm. Step 2 Now measure the height of the frame, from the centre top down to the point where the hinges align with each other, as shown above (labelled B). With

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our example, the B measurement is 5cm. Step 3 Armed with these measurements, you can crochet your purse or bag in any way you want to – you just need to make sure that the circumference of your fabric is exactly twice the A measurement. You can work this in the round or in rows, or work two separate sides, then seam them together afterwards. In our example, the A measurement is 20cm so you’d need to crochet a pouch that’s at least 40cm circumference. Step 4 Work your purse as long as you’d like it to be, aligning the top of your last row with the base of the purse frame. When it’s the height you want, just work some extra rows to equal the B measurement – in our example, we needed to work an extra 5cm of fabric.

Psst

If you’re ad d ing lining, d o so at t a he time a  t he out e  same fabric

Attaching the fabric

There are two ways you can attach your crochet fabric to the purse frame: either with glue or by sewing the fabric to the frame. Each method uses a slightly different type of frame. If you’re gluing, you’ll need a purse frame that has grooves with solid sides. Squeeze glue along one groove and insert the fabric, adding a length of paper string to help stuff the groove, if desired. To make the join more secure, use pliers to squeeze the sides of the frame over the fabric. If you’re sewing, you’ll need a frame with holes along each side or along one side of each groove. Most crochet projects use sew-in frames so we’re going to focus on this type – turn over and we’ll show you the easiest way to do this.

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how do I sew the fabric to the frame?

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Before sewing your crochet fabric in place, divide the final round into quarters and mark them with waste yarn. If you have side seams, use these as two of the marks and just make the remaining two marks evenly from here. If you have a central motif, mark the centre point of the motif, then mark the other three points evenly from there. Step 1 Position the fabric next to the holes in the frame, aligning your quarter marks with the centre of each side and the base of each hinge. Starting at the centre of one side, insert pins into the holes to secure the fabric in place. Work outwards towards the hinges. You need to allow enough fabric on each side to reach the base of the purse frame at the bottom of each hinge (see Step 4 for more). 80 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Step 2 Using a matching sewing thread or yarn, sew the fabric to the frame. You can sew a running stitch or backstitch, depending on the finished look you’d prefer. Start at the centre again and sew outwards towards one hinge – then restart from the centre and sew outwards towards the other hinge. Be careful with the pins and remove them as you go. Step 3 Once the first side is finished, repeat the pinning and sewing process to attach the other side. Working one side at a time should make the process a little less fiddly. Step 4 At the sides of the frame, you won’t be able to sew the fabric to the hinge itself. Don’t worry though, it’s not a problem – just make sure you’ve left enough fabric to reach

the base of the hinge on one side and then back up to the other side. Step 5 When you close the purse, this area around the hinge should gather up to cover the hinge and hide any gap. You might need to gently pull the fabric into a nice shape. Step 6 If your frame has grooves, insert each side of the fabric into each grooved side, then sew it in place as described above. With this sort of frame and joining technique, the stitches will be visible on the outside. Note If you’d like to hide the holes, on the inside or outside of your purse, you could add a lining (either crochet fabric or woven cotton fabric). You’ll need to sew this in place at the same time as you sew the outer fabric in place, using the same holes.

Written by Becky Skuse

Here’s how to attach your purse to different sorts of frames.


pARTY BAG

z t i l g e h t n Putting o Add a chic twist to your party outfit with this elegant handbag design by Becky Skuse.

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WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 81


pARTY BAG A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Scheepjes Twinkle (75% cotton, 25% polyester, 50g/130m), 2 balls of Yarn A (903), 1 ball of Yarn B (911) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A purse frame (we used a 18.5cm square frame from Scheepjes, no. 99567, see below for details) Q Stitch markers Q Cotton lining fabric (optional) For yarn and purse frame stockists contact Scheepjes www.scheepjes.com/en

MEASUREMENTS Approx 24x24cm (9½x9½in) excluding handles

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

Designer Becky Skuse says: “It’s a fantastic skill to be able to incorporate purse frames into your makes, and it’s easier than you might think. This simple bag is a great first project if you’re new to purse frames, and we explain how to adjust the pattern to suit any purse frame you like. We used a stretchy, glitzy yarn that’s easy and fun to hook with, plus the stretch will forgive any minor errors in your measuring! The contrasting band and bow add a stylish edge that’s perfect for any glamorous do this party season.”

NOTES You can use any purse frame for this bag. The Bag Base is worked in rows and the Body continues in rounds. FITTING YOUR PURSE FRAME Measure your purse frame around the upper edge as described as the A measurement in the technical feature. To do this, align your tape measure with the base of one hinge, then measure up around the top edge of the frame and down to the base of the other hinge. Our purse frame has an A measurement of approx 27cm (10½in). Take your A measurement and minus 7cm: this is your Z measurement. Ours was 20cm. BAG BASE Using Yarn A, ch35 or the number you need to equal your Z measurement. Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. [35 dc] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each dc to end, turn. Rows 3-13 Repeat Row 2 eleven times. Place first stitch marker in final dc to mark edge of base.

LOWER BAG SIDES Round 1 *Rotate to work into row ends, dc in each row end along to corner, rotate to work into other side of starting chain, dc in each ch to end, repeat from * working another 48 dc, ss to first dc to join. [96 dc] Place second stitch marker in first dc and use it to mark the start of each round, moving it up as you go. Round 2 Ch1, dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. Repeat Round 2 until work measures approx 5cm from first stitch marker. Check the circumference of the piece now – it should be twice the A measurement of 82 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Pin the crocheted bag to the handle, then stitch it in place using neat, even stitches.

your purse frame. If you need to, work increases or decreases (evenly and gradually) to achieve the desired circumference by the end of this section. Continue to repeat Round 2 until work measures approx 10cm from first stitch marker. Fasten off Yarn A and remove first stitch marker.

CENTRAL BAG BAND Join Yarn B to any stitch. Round 1 Ch1, dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. Repeat Round 1 until band section measures approx 4cm. Fasten off Yarn B.

UPPER BAG SIDES Join Yarn A to any stitch. Round 1 Ch1, dc in each dc around, ss to first dc. Repeat Round 1 until the upper sides measure approx 10cm from the band. Fasten off Yarn A. BOW Using Yarn B, ch7. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. [6 dc] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each dc to end, turn. Repeat Row 2 until work measures approx 45cm. Fasten off , weave in ends and tie into a bow. TO FINISH Decide which side of the bag you’d like to be the front and sew the bow to this side, slightly off-centre. Use waste yarn to mark the four corners of the bag at the top. Sew the bag to the purse frame, using the waste yarn as a guide to help you with positioning. Line the bag if desired.


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MANDALA

oy Enj

ke.

Psst

Win the to make ya  n th i ! Made in association with King Cole for stockists www.kingcole.com or call 0207 5964321


Manda a GO PRO 4PLY WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q King Cole Giza Cotton 4ply (100%

cotton, 50g/158m), 1 ball of each: Orange (2204), Pink (2192), Plum (2199), Silver (2193), Yellow (2206), Brown (2205) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook For yarn stockists, contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com

MEASUREMENTS 16.5cm (6½in) diameter

ABBREVIATIONS Picot Ch3, ss to 2nd ch from hook 2-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook 3-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 3 times, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 4 loops on hook, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 5 times, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 6 loops on hook For a full list, see page 92

The explosion of colour in Lucy’s stunning mandala makes us think of scrummy puddings! This intricate design is a bit of a challenge with its picots and cluster stitches, but worth it to produce such a stunning centrepiece. Show off your mandalas on social media using the hashtag #SCmandalas – we wanna see! MANDALA Using Pink, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), 11tr into loop, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. [12tr] Round 2 Join Brown in first st, *ch2, 2-tr cluster in st at base of ch-3, ch3, (3-tr in next st, ch3) 11 times, fasten off. [12 clusters and 12 ch-3 sps] Round 3 Join Yellow in any ch-3 sp, ch2, (tr, ch2, 2-tr cluster) in same ch-3 sp, ch2, *(2-tr cluster, ch2) twice in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * 10 more times, fasten off. [24 clusters and 24 ch-2 sps] Round 4 Join Orange in first ch-2 sp, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same sp, *ch1, skip next ch-2 sp, (dtr, ch1) 7 times in next ch-2 sp, skip next ch-2 sp, dc in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * 5 more times, omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join, fasten off. [6 shells] Round 5 Join Plum in 4th dtr of any shell, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *ch4, (dtr, ch2, dtr, ch2, dtr) in next dc, ch4, dc in 4th dtr of next shell; repeat from * 5 more times, omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join. Round 6 Ch3 (counts as tr), *5tr in next ch-4 sp, skip next dtr, (tr, ch2, tr, ch2, tr) in next dtr, 5tr in next ch-4 sp, tr in next dc; repeat from * 5 more times, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 7 Skip first tr, join Pink in next tr, ch3 (counts as tr), *tr in each of next 4 tr, ch3, skip next (tr, ch-2 sp), dc in next tr, skip next (ch-2 sp, tr), tr in each of next 5 tr, ch2,

WIN YARN TO MAKE OUR GIZA MANDALA All of the projects in our mandala series are hooked in Giza, King Cole’s 100% cotton 4ply. The mercerised Egyptian cotton is fine, has a brilliant sheen and a luxurious feel. The cotton is grown in its namesake city, Giza, on the bank of the

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skip next tr, tr in next tr; repeat from * 5 more times, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 8 Join Orange in back loop of first tr with a ss, *ch3, skip next 3 tr, ss in back loop of next tr, ch1, skip next ch-3 sp, (dtr, ch1) 7 times in next dc, skip next ch-3 sp, ss in back loop of next tr, ch3, skip next 3 tr, ss in back loop of next tr, working in front of ch-2 sp in Round 7, 5-tr cluster in skipped tr in Round 6, ss in back loop of next tr; repeat from * 5 more times working last ss into the first ss, fasten off. Round 9 Join Pink in front loop of first tr of Round 7, ch3 (count as tr), 2tr in same loop of first tr, tr in each of next 3 tr in Round 7, ch5, ss in back loop of 4th dtr in next shell in Round 8, ch5, skip next tr in Round 7, tr in each of next 3 tr in Round 7, 3tr in front loop of next tr, skip 5-tr cluster in Round 8, 3tr in front loop of next tr in Round 7; repeat from * 5 more times omitting last 3tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 10 Join Silver in first tr, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in each of next 5 tr, (2htr, 3dc) in next ch-5 sp, htr in front loop of 4th dtr of shell in Round 8, (3dc, 2htr) in next ch-5 sp, tr in each of next 7 tr; repeat from * 5 more times omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 11 Join Brown in first tr, ch3 (counts as tr), *tr in next tr, picot, tr in each of next 4 tr, picot, tr in each of next 5 sts, picot, skip next htr, tr in each of next 5 sts, picot, tr in each of next 4 tr, picot, tr in each of next 3 tr; repeat from * 5 more times omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.


Crochet essentials

Over the next few pages, you’ll find simple step-by-step guides to many useful stitches and techniques that you’ll use every time you pick up a hook. HOLDING THE HOOK

Try these methods and see which works best.

PENCIL METHOD Hold the hook like a pencil, in your right hand (if you’re right-handed), about 3-5cm from the hooked end. If your hook has a flat area, you’ll find it comfortable to hold it here.

KNIFE METHOD Hold the hook between your thumb and forefinger, about 3-5cm from the hooked end, resting the end of the hook against your palm. This will give you lots of control.

HOLDING THE YARN

Even tension results in even stitches.

METHOD ONE Pass the ball end of the yarn between the little finger and third fingers of your left hand (if you are right-handed), then behind the third and middle fingers, over your index finger.

METHOD TWO Loop the ball end of the yarn loosely around the little finger of your left hand, then take it over the third finger, behind the middle finger and over your index finger.

3 Catch the ball end of the yarn with the hook and pull it back through the centre of the loop, taking the yarn through with it.

4 Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot, then pull just the ball end to tighten the loop so it’s close to the hook, but not touching it.

MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook.

1 Hold the tail of the ball of yarn in your left hand and drape the yarn clockwise over the top of it to form a circular loop.

2 Hold the loop between left thumb and forefinger, then insert the crochet hook through the centre of the loop from front to back.

CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain.

How to count chains

9

1 Hold the hook in your right hand, and both the yarn end and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anticlockwise.

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2 Pull the hook towards the slipknot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pulling it through the slipknot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a chain length.

3 This is what your row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your left hand near the hook, to keep the tension. Keep going until you have the number of chains that’s stated in your pattern.

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Never count your first slipknot or the loop on the hook (called the working loop). So that you can be accurate, make sure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.

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1


SLIP STITCH (ss)

This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds.

1 The slip stitch is used to join a length of chain into the round. Insert the hook from front to back into the first chain you worked. Wrap yarn round the hook (yrh) in an anticlockwise direction.

2 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch (as shown) and then the loop already on the hook to make a slip stitch. You can also work this stitch into each stitch along a row to form a neat edging.

WORKING IN ROWS

Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric.

1 The first row is made by working across the foundation chain from right to left. At the end of the chain or row, turn the work so that the yarn is behind the hook.

2 For the next row, first make the turning chain for the stitch you’re about to work (see opposite). Now work the next stitch into the top of the stitches on your first row, missing the first stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet

One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric.

1 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row.

2 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving you two loops on your crochet hook.

4 Yarn round hook again, then pull the yarn through both loops. There’s your double crochet made and you’ll have one loop left on the hook, ready to do the next stitch.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet

A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet.

1 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).

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2 Insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yarn around the hook again (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (3 loops on hook).

4 Yarn round hook again, pull the yarn through all 3 loops. You’ve made a half treble crochet. Continue working htr into next and following sts to the end of the row.


YOUR GUIDE TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet

One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch.

1 To work a treble crochet, start by winding yrh and then insert the hook under the top two loops of the stitch on the previous row.

2 Wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh) and pull the yarn through the stitch only.

DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr) US term: treble crochet This is a stitch regularly used as an elongated version of the treble (described above). It’s worked in a very similar way to the treble, as follows: 1 Make a foundation chain. Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the hook under the top loop of the next ch. 2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the ch loop only (4 loops on hook). 3 Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).

Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook). 4 Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. Repeat from * to make more dtr sts. 5 To make the next row of dtr, turn work and ch4. This turning chain counts as the first dtr in a new row. Skip first st at the base of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the top two loops of the 2nd stitch in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

TURNING CHAIN (t-ch)

For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain. In crochet, you need to add turning chains (t-chs) to the beginning of rows. The reason for this is to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you’re crocheting. Each basic stitch has its own number of chains. The

table below tells you how many t-ch sts form the first stitch. *For dc, usually the turning chain does not count as a stitch, and the first stitch of the row is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.

STITCH

Add to foundation chain before starting row

Skip at start of foundation row (counts as first st)

For turning chain (counts as first st)

Double crochet

1 ch

1 ch*

1 ch*

Half treble

1 ch

2 ch

2 ch

Treble

2 ch

3 ch

3 ch

Double treble

3 ch

4 ch

4 ch

Triple treble

4 ch

5 ch

5 ch

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3 You will now have 3 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through just the first 2 loops on the hook.

4 You will now have 2 loops on the hook. Yrh again and draw the yarn through the remaining loops on the hook. Your treble crochet is complete.

TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr) US term: double treble crochet This is one of the longest standard crochet stitches and is mainly used in fancy stitch patterns. It’s taller than a double treble crochet stitch (described left) and is worked in a very similar way, as follows: 1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook under top loop of next ch. 2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop only (5 loops on hook). 3 † Yrh, draw loop through 2

loops only. Repeat from † 3 times more and your triple treble will be finished. Repeat from * to make more ttr sts. 4 To make the next row, turn work and ch5. This turning chain counts as the first triple treble in a new row. Skip first st at base of the t-ch. Work 1 triple treble, inserting hook under the top 2 loops of the 2nd st in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

How to count stitches Check your work is correct. Being able to count your stitches is very important and helps you to ensure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row. To count short stitches such as double crochet, look at the plaited tops (see above right). For taller stitches, count the upright ‘stems’ – each ‘stem’ is counted as a stitch (see right).

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1

2

2

3

3

4

4

5

5

6

6

7

8

7

9

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HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR

Create stripes and other colour effects.

1 Before you work the final yrh (yarn round hook) on the last stitch of a row in the old colour, drop the old yarn and then pick up the new one with your hook.

2 Pull through a loop of the new yarn to finish the old stitch. The working loop will be in the new colour. Continue, keeping the old yarn at the wrong side.

INCREASING AND DECREASING

Shaping stitches are vital for making garments.

INCREASE To increase one stitch is very simple – work one stitch into the next stitch on the row below. When you’ve finished, work another stitch into the same stitch.

DECREASE For a quick decrease, just skip one stitch. For a neater look, work the first part of one stitch and then begin the next stitch. Finish both together.

SEWING SEAMS

You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods.

1 Sewing with a tapestry needle is the regular and neat way to join seams. Place two pieces of crochet right sides together and oversew them as shown above, using a tapestry or yarn needle.

2 To slip stitch a seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together. *Insert hook into both edge stitches, yrh and pull through to complete 1 slip stitch; rep from * working into the next edge stitches, keeping work fairly loose.

How to check your tension Make and measure a swatch to check your tension. Most crochet patterns state the tension required, in rows and stitches of a specific type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square and check that your tension matches. Place a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins, 10cm apart. Then place the ruler along a column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm apart. Count the stitches and rows between the pins – if you have less than the pattern, your tension is too loose so you need to use a smaller hook, but if you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s usually better to match the stitches than rows, because you can always work more or fewer rows.

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3 For a dc seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam. Work as for slip stitch seam, using double crochet instead of slip stitch.

4 A useful variation on the dc seam, the dc and chain seam is used when less bulk and/or greater flexibility is needed. Work 1 double crochet and 1 chain alternately.


YOUR GUIDE FOUNDATION RING

Create a foundation ring for working in the round.

1 Make a chain the length stated in the pattern instructions. Next, insert the crochet hook into the first chain. Close the ring with a slip stitch, working yrh…

2 …and pull yarn through 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start crocheting in the round, following the instructions given right.

WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING

To make circles, tubes and other shapes.

1 Make a foundation ring and work the t-ch (3ch for treble sts). Work a treble st as usual, but insert hook into centre of ring. For treble sts, yrh, insert hook into ring.

2 Finish the treble as usual (yrh, pull yarn through ring, yrh, pull yarn through first 2 loops, yrh, pull yarn through 2 loops). Work more sts into the ring as needed.

3 Make a t-ch for the sts you want to work (above, we made 1 t-ch for dc). Work your sts into the Magic Loop, over both the loop and the tail end (so two yarn strands).

4 Once you’ve worked the first round of stitches, simply pull the tail end of yarn to draw up the ring. Work a slip stitch to join the last and first sts to finish the first round (as instructed in the guide below).

MAGIC LOOP

An alternative foundation ring for working in the round. Working yarn

Tail end

1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t make a slipknot. Instead, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long. Make sure the tail end is under the working yarn.

2 Now insert your hook into the loop, from front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through the loop.

JOINING ROUNDS

Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch.

Rounds or spirals

1 To close a round of stitches, work a slip stitch into the top of the turning chain. To do this, insert the hook into the top stitch of the turning chain.

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2 Then place the yarn round the hook. Pull the yarn through the turning chain stitch and through the original stitch on your hook.

3 You’ve slip stitched the round together! Before working another round, be sure to make the required turning chain. Always work rounds on the right side, unless you pattern instructs you otherwise.

Some patterns are worked in rounds that are joined together at the end of each round (see left). Other patterns are worked in a spiral so you don’t need to join the rounds at the end, just keep going, working into the next stitch on the previous row. Amigurumi toys are often worked in a spiral like this.

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©Stephanie Lau, www.allaboutami.com

Check which technique you need to use.


Abbreviations across approx beg bl BPtr

ch(s) ch-sp(s) chcl(s) 2-tr cl

cont dc dc2tog

dec dtr dtr2tog fdc ftr fl foll/folls FPtr

to end of the row approximate(ly) beginning insert hook under back loop only Back Post treble: yrh, starting from the back, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st in row below, complete as treble st chain/chain stitch(es) chain space(s) refers to ch made previously, eg. ch-3 clusters (yrh, insert hook in sp/ st, yrh & pull up loop, yrh & draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting hook in same sp/st, yrh & draw through all loops on hook continue double crochet (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw a loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook decrease double treble crochet work 2dtr together foundation dc foundation tr insert hook under front loop only following/follows Front Post treble: work in opposite way to BPtr

Crochet hook conversions htr htr2tog in next inc LH lp(s) meas patt(s) pm prev qtr rem rep RH rnd(s) RS sk sp(s) ss st(s) tbl t-ch(s) tog tr tr2tog

ttr WS yrh *

()

half treble work 2htr together sts to be worked into the same stitch increase left hand loop(s) measures pattern(s) place marker previous quadruple treble remain(s)/remaining repeat right hand round(s) right side skip space(s) slip stitch stitch(es) through back loop turning chain(s) together treble crochet (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, yrh and draw through all loops on hook triple treble crochet wrong side yarn round hook work instructions immediately foll *, then rep as many more times as directed work all instructions in the brackets as many times as directed

HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH

To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve finished crocheting, fasten the end off carefully. Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn about 15cm from the work. Pull it through the last loop on the hook and pull to close the loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the back of the work. Most crochet items don’t need a lot of blocking, but cotton lace work usually does. To do this, carefully pin out the item with rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally. 92 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

UK

METRIC

US

14

2mm

13

2.25mm

B/1

12

2.5mm

2.75mm

C/2

11

3mm

10

3.25mm

D/3

9

3.5mm

E/4

3.75mm

F/5

8

4mm

G/6

7

4.5mm

7

6

5mm

H/8

5

5.5mm

I/9

4

6mm

J/10

3

6.5mm

K/10½

2

7mm

0

8mm

L/11

00

9mm

M/13

000

10mm

N/15

Which hook do I use? Hook size

UK yarn weight

2.5-3.5mm hook

4ply yarn

3.5-4.5mm hook

double knitting yarn

5-6mm hook

aran yarn

7mm and bigger

chunky yarn

UK/US conversions UK

US

chain

ch

chain

ch

slip stitch

ss

slip stitch

ss

double crochet

dc

single crochet

sc

half treble

htr

half double

hdc

treble

tr

double

dc

double treble

dtr

treble

tr

triple treble

ttr

double treble

dtr


CHARTS

Charts & Diagrams Here are the extra bits and pieces you’ll need to make the cross stitch home accessories in this issue. Trio of plant pot covers, page 20

Come to our blog at www.simplycrochetmag.com

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 93


CHARTS

Criss-cross cushion, page 21

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CHARTS

Criss-cross cushion, page 21

Come to our blog at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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CHARTS Doorstop block, page 22 26

25

24

23

22

21

20

19

18

17

16

15

14

13

12

11

10

9

8 6 4 2 22 20

15

10

7

Key

5

Off White

3

Black

1

Harvest Red

5 Key Off White

Bolster cushion, page 23

Harvest Red Black 63 60

55

50

45

40

35

30

25

20

15

10

5

1 90

85

80

75

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65

60

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40

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10

5


Hook th i  wint e  wond e 

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snuggly fringed jacket colonnade stitch

firebird shawl megachunky th row

And more‌

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HOOKY TREASURE

Out of this world

T

Instagram favourite Kate Alinari tells us about her most important creation and closest companion, Tipo Strano.

ipo Strano is an Italian name meaning ‘strange guy’. He is an alien from a planet far, far away named Crochetex. He came in peace to our planet in May 2012, armed with a stellar crochet hook and an enigmatic look. Since then he has followed me everywhere, exploring our planet with curiosity and an adventurous spirit. When Tipo Strano came to Earth he was just 15cm tall. In my laboratory we tried an experiment called ‘giantisation’. It took me a week to set up the experiment, calibrate the giantiser ray, understand the risks for Tipo Strano and, finally, we made it – a giant Tipo Strano! For long trips around the world he likes his natural form, but for big events like craft fairs, he loves to attend in his giant appearance. I love bold and bright colours – I think this is the reason why I love my buddy, Tipo Strano. He’s not made of flesh and bones like us. When he talks about Crochetex and its inhabitants I get confused, but from my investigations I can say he is a double 98 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

crochet. As he doesn’t tend to felt, I don’t think he’s made of wool. If you’d like to make your own crochet friend just follow your creativity, use your favourite stitches and colours, and you’ll never go wrong. People love Tipo Strano and our adventures all around the world – I share all his travel pictures on Instagram and Facebook. In October our first book came out, I Balocchi del Tipo Strano (Tipo Strano’s Toys), which includes five crochet games to play, for little ones and grown-ups. There’s no pattern to make Tipo Strano; he’s unique. But if you love him you could have his accessories, which I’ve designed in collaboration with Riot Clothing Space. There is a full range of projects for crocheters and knitters, including T-shirts, bags, needles and hook cases. Kate is at www.madebykate.me and find katealinari on Instagram/Facebook for Tipo Strano’s adventures. Go to www.riot-clothing-space.com/shop/ tag-prodotto/tipo-strano for Tip Strano’s accessories.


isSue sIxty-Four

In this month’s issue we have spectacular projects for perfect Christmas presents. There are gorgeous gifts in alpaca yarn from top designers, seasonal makes for your home, luxurious accessories, Santa amigurumi, and sparkly sequins. Plus, you’ll get our exclusive TOFT 2018 calendar!

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Lacy decorations, sweet amigurumi angel, fab bauble bunting and cheery Christmas jumpers.

Festival makes, a doughnut dress for kids, gradient yarn, summer amigurumi and filet crochet.

Mohair accessories, cosy blankets, a new designer challenge and the first in our mandala series.

Tartan and plaid collection, hooky Halloween treats, spooky accessories and crochet socks.

Bobble stitch makes, pineapple lace top, vintage jumper, rainbows and Tunisian crochet.

Granny treble ideas, an amigurumi alpaca, sparkly crochet and a scarf for him. Plus, try Bavarian crochet.

Pop art colourwork, waffle stitch makes, amigurumi sloth, cosy blanket, and a fringed ombrĂŠ poncho.

Catwalk-inspired accessories, granny square cardigan, Tunisian crochet and a cute kangaroo toy.

Hook stocking fillers by top designers, amazing Rudolph wall art, filet crochet and an ombre shawl.

Yarnbombing makes, easy-peasy jumper, pretty summer tops, amigurumi ladybird and a crochet teepee.

Easter amigurumi, colourwork, retro tunic top, tribal home makes and planned colour pooling.

Beach ideas, cute amigurumi donkey, vintage dungaree shorts and a filet crochet skull jumper.

Dreamy pastel projects, amigurumi unicorn, rainbow blanket and a granny stripe cardigan.

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Starry cowl

Shine bright and wrap up warm in chunky style. By Kath Webber.

Treat yourself!

quick & Easy project


EASY PEASY SUPER CHUNKY

12MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Bergère de France Barisienne 12 (100% acrylic, 150g/75m), 3 balls of Birmanie (10016) Q A 12mm (US O/17) hook For yarn stockists contact www.bergeredefrance.co.uk

TENSION 4 star stitches measure 12cm and 2 rows of pattern measures 10cm

MEASUREMENTS 20x156cm (8x61½in)

ABBREVIATIONS Star stitch insert hook in centre ch-1 of previous star st, yrh, draw a loop back through, insert hook in front loop of last ‘leg’ of star st, yrh, draw a loop through, insert hook in same st as last ‘leg’ of previous star stitch, yrh, draw a loop through, (insert hook in next st along, yrh, draw a loop through) twice, yrh, draw through all 6 loops, ch1 For a full list, see page 92 of Simply Crochet

Star stitch is really satisfying once you get the hang of it – and quick with your 12mm hook.

Hook up this pattern using Bergère de France’s super chunky Barisienne 12 and you’ll be snuggling into it in no time. Designer Kath Webber has come up with a gorgeous star stitch pattern cowl, made with loops and trebles for an unusual textured look. We’ve made ours in a raspberry shade, but there are 12 colours to choose from, so you should be able to go matchy-matchy with your winter coat or find a cool contrast.

NOTES The star stitch is made by creating a series of loops on the hook on the right side row then drawing the yarn through them to create a centre stitch. The centre stitch is filled on the wrong side rows with half trebles to create a textured and exceptionally pretty stitch. The pattern is worked in rounds that are joined, turning each round after joining. STAR STITCH COWL Ch100, ss to first ch to join into a ring, taking care not to twist the chain. Round 1 (RS) Ch3, starting in 2nd ch from hook, (insert hook in next ch, yrh, draw a loop back through the ch) 5 times (6 loops on hook), yrh, draw through all 6 loops, ch1 (first star stitch is complete); to make every following star stitch, follow instructions as given above (see abbreviations) and rep to end, ss sto top of beg ch-3, turn. [49 star sts] Round 2 Ch2 (counts as htr), 2htr in centre ch-1 of each star st around, ss to top of beg ch-2, turn. [99 sts] Round 3 Ch3, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yrh, draw a loop through, insert hook in next ch, yrh, draw a loop through, insert hook in same st at base of beg ch-3, yrh, draw loop through, (insert hook in next htr, yrh, draw loop through) twice, yrh, draw through all 6 loops, ch1 (first star stitch is complete); to make every following star stitch, follow instructions as given above (see abbreviations) and rep to end, ss to top of beg ch-3, turn. Round 4 As Round 2. Rounds 3 and 4 form the pattern. Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 twice more (to work 8 rounds in total). Fasten off and weave in ends. PRESENTED WITH ISSUE 65 OF SIMPLY CROCHET. PRINTED IN THE UK.


Simply crochet march 2018  
Simply crochet march 2018  
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