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ram ento C. Segovia

Pl. Puerta de Moros an C. S cisco n Fra l nge C. Á

s ne nto Po S Pl. los Cas ta. ilda Francisco Paseo de Morano

ESTADIO VICENTE CALDERÓN

eo

LA ESKALERA DE CARACOLA

Plaza de La Paja lla

IMPERIAL

Mármol

Pas

9

S. Rufo

Ca

CENTRO SOCIAL SECO

RO

ND

DEL

8

alo

LA

LA TABACALERA

S. G

VIRGEN DEL

7

CA

l

DE

EPA PATIO MARAVILLAS

les

Daimie

SEGOVIA

BASÍLICA DE SAN FRANCISCO EL GRANDE

Pizarra

AV.

6

LAS VENTILLAS / HUERTO URBANO

Fósforo

Sac

nd

la

CALLAO

Plaza de Sto. Domingo

Plaza Isabel II

TEATRO REAL

J.

Yagüe

CUZCO

NUEVOS MINISTERIOS

Calle

2

10

le

al lV

Pe

de

MONASTERIO DESCALZAS REALES

Plaza de Oriente

do

del

RÍOS ROSAS

MUSEO MUNICIPAL

San

Tesoro

na

SANTO DOMINGO

METRO

C.

Re

C.

C.

ón

AYUNTAMIENTO

Jardines de Las Vistillas

6

C. Espíritu Calle

C

PALACIO DUQUES DE UCEDA VIADUCTO

Moreno Nieto

PASE O

5

sa

BOWLING PARK

METRO

Plaza de España

6 4PA L A C I O 8

ares

C. Manzan

METRO

yes Re R. Le

METRO

Pastor

Pl. Dos Calle dede Mayo la Palm a

Noviciado

IGLESIA S. MARCOS

V CONVENTO DE LA Jardines ENCARNACIÓN la o de Sabatini .B

DE

4

Divino

del

Ríos

Plaza Olavide

METRO

4 8 5 UNIVERSIDAD 10 2 2 3 GR 8 AN 9 VÍ A 9 GR

Plaza de la Armería

Parque de Atenas

C.

Juan

Pl. de Cuzco

CASTILLEJOS

Guzmán

de

Glorieta de Bilbao

aña

NOVICIADO

CUARTEL DE CONDE DUQUE

E NT SENADO

I

ANZA

C. M. Malas

Pl. de las Comendadoras

de

TRAFALGAR

CARR

C.

C. Pedro

RÍOS ROSAS

Calle

QUEVEDO

de la Cruz

Huesca

Maudes

Cristóbal

Glorieta del General Álvarez de Castro

Glorieta

3

z

PLAZA DE ESPAÑA

PALACIO REAL

CALLE

Cru

María

Calle

METRO

ela

C. RA IMU ND O FDE Z. VIL LAV ERD E CONSEJERÍA DE

A Ruiz Jiménez

ta

VENTURA RODRÍGUEZ

METRO

METRO

AGUILER

San

CE

S.

CUESTA

Campo del Moro

SAN BERNARDO

ALBERTO e

Pl. Conde Valle Suchil Pedro

San

Artistas

Calle

Eloy Glorieta alle de Quevedo C

Católico

Valdés

PALACIO DE LIRIA

CATEDRAL DE LA ALMUDENA

PTE. DE SEGOVIA

OZONE

PRÍNCIPE PÍO

METRO

Gta. de S. Vicente

Puente del Rey

ART DECÓ BOWLING

7

a

an

int

Qu

MUSEO Parque de CERRALBO la Montaña

3

5

M.

4

Ro

10 PLACA DE SAN PABLO

Cortés

Áng

Fr

Gervás

Hernani

POLÍTICA TERRITORIAL ESTACIÓN CONTINENTAL-AUTO

METRO

Ríos

El

de

C A LLE

CANAL

los

Meléndez

Call

TEMPLO DE DEBOD

ESTACIÓN PRÍNCIPE PÍO

de

Fernando

CALLE

C. ARGÜELLES co lle Ca cis an Fr

y

ESTACIÓN LA SEPULVEDANA

S

ANTONIO GRILLO/ HUERTO URBANO

3

DIVERBOWLING

de

TORRIJOS

NARE

4

ÉSTA ES UNA PLAZA/ HUERTO URBANO

2

BOWLING CHAMARTÍN

C.

TRIBUNAL DE LA INQUISICIÓN

MANZA

3

CAMPO DE LA CEBADA

1

de

2

LA PILUKA / HUERTO URBANO/ Solares

S

Fdez.

Rodríguez

so uce

en

Re

30

1

BOWLING ALLEYS

uijo

Urq

SAN ANTONIO DE LA FLORIDA

GUERNIKAKO ARBOLA

Calle

METRO

Bu

l

de

Rosaleda

Plaza San Antonio de la Florida

Casa de Campo

LAND PLOTS

C. d

CASA DE CAMPO

EMIR MOHAMED I

C.

CANALEJAS

s de

qué

ar el M

Donoso

ARAPILES

ARGÜELLES

ano

a

le d

Calle

rez

mir

lt eA

Cal

o Teleféric

RÍO

10 TOPLESS MOCAMBO

9

Parque del Oeste

tiér

Gu

tor

HOTEL ATLÁNTICO

ns

M-

10 COLONIA SALUD Y AHORRO

9

8

LEON FELIPE

oe

Pin

Paseo de Recoletos, 15

BAR OSKAR

m

l

8

7

C. d

de

Plaza del Rey, 1

CHURRERÍA SAN GINÉS

lle

7

6

eB

o

Plaza de Santa Ana, 4

BINGO RIOJANO

Ca

o enit

ida or Fl s la ina de Mar o se eto ic An

9

6

5

PRIMER CINE

R

ro

me

Ro

de

lle Ca

do

e obl

de

C.

MONCLOA

Pa

8

Embajadores, 39

CINE IDEAL

4

ROMBOS 15M se

7

5

CERVECERÍA FREIDURÍA LA CARPA

3

seo

METRO

Pa

Pa

6

Miguel Servet, 14

4

CAFÉ CENTRAL

2

PLACA 15M

ret

Mo

de

e

5

Glorieta Puerta de Toledo

3

FAJAS RUIZ

1

C

erto

.d

4

IGLESIA DE SAN MARTÍN

2

HOTEL MEDIODÍA

INTERCAMBIADOR DE TRANSPORTES

í hap

ISLAS FILIPINAS

GAZT AMBIDE Calle

Calle

Francisco

C. Gral. Orgaz

Jaén

Pino

les

Mora

C. Apolonio

Calle Félix Boix

Rosario

Calle gall o

General

Avenida

C U AT R O CAMINOS

BERMÚDEZ

Joaquín María López

Calle

Is

Calle

ARCO DE LA VICTORIA

ugue Berr

TÓ CA

J. C.

C LI

ida

CEA

s

ina

Filip

las

n Ave

DE

METRO

o niz Pa

OS

VIC

Rup

o

se

Pa

3

Calle del Reloj, 14

1

NAME PLATES

CALLE

rife

CO

er

1

FARO DE MADRID

d an

AR

AS

Estadio Vallehermoso de

ALVARADO

Calle

Depósitos Canal Isabel II

nt Sa

AV .

EO

Plaza de P Cristo Rey

Ca

2

CIUDAD UNIVERSITARIA

SA

Peral

1

IS

A FR

ruel

CUATRO CAMINOS

C.

Santander

DE

N

HOSPITAL CLÍNICO

MUSEO DE AMÉRICA

L SA Parque

CO

NC

VALLEHERMOSO

IA

Neon commercial signs

del

Calle de Julian Romea

ES

del

de Te

C.

Mar

Sor

ino

C. San Enrique C. de la Coru ña

Calle

Glorieta de Cuatro Caminos

IAS ES

Avda.

Memories of the fallen angel

10 Panic in the Trans-Siberian express

Cabanillas

METRO

METRO

VICTORIA

A

C. L

Calle

Calle

8

Dr. Santero

IGL

CIUDAD UNIVERSITARIA

The tower of the seven hunchbacks

9

Asensio

Tene

8

AV

METROPOLITANO

Gral.

METRO

TO R

SUN DIALS

a on

The skull of Atahualpa

A ENID

LOA

METRO

METRO

ral.

Calle

pl m Pa

DEL

NC

CRUZ ROJA

REIN

tro

10 SPACE INVADER

RIO

talvo

Mon

Juan

BELLAS

GUZMÁN EL BUENO

aes

SAM3

7

riz

J. M

10 THE GEOGRAPHIC CLUB

9

EGO

AV. M O

Isaac

PUERTA GRANDE

ROSH. AFRODITA

GR

The day of the beast

eat

LO

8

6

C. B

PAB

NORTE SUR

ROA. Esta es una plaza

The heart of the warrior

Rubio

7

Raimundo

P. Vi ll

C. G

C. J. de Ol ías Calle de Áv ila

Carolinas

lle V I S TA S Almansa

lle Ca

LA TAURINA

NURIA MORA

5

Calle

s

6

ELTONO

I have ships available

a

on TETUÁN ale s METRO

Calle de

METRO

ar

Via n

od

METRO

Navarra Castilla

e

San

Ca

Almansa

Calle

Maeztu

de

o

ir Ram

o Vasc

GRÁFICAS SANTA CRUZ

5

BORONDO Y YETI

4

DE

EL RINCÓN DE CARDEÑA

4

The Merry Whale

vaca

EL PEZ GORDO

3

de

9

BOA MISTURA

e

8

3

The Path

Call

7

EL OLIVAR

2

C I U DA D UNIVERSIT ARIA

Alg

ESTRECHO

Call

Calle

Ara

6

BLU

Moreras

las

Rapture

adilla Bob

5

ARMERÍA ESPAÑOLA

2

1

AVENIDA

4

ALBERTO DE PEDRO

a raz Ped M. Federi co

Los

3

1

Mo

A NID AVE

2

ALDAO - PARKING

o

ren

FANTASY MADRID

nas

C.

Ne

lle

aro de H

Lope

Plaza de La Remonta

uce

de nú far

lle

RODRÍGUEZ

ros ñe Le Los ro jand Ale

o ieg

1

STREET ART

lle

C.

D de

TAXIDERMIC MADRID

A. Vallejo

METRO

Ca

il lam Vil

FRANCOS FRANCOS RODRÍGUEZ

co. C. F

Dehesa de la Villa

Alonso

s

Ca

C. Burgos

Núñez

Ca

de

DE M. Auxiliadora

rq

BERRUGUETE

la

LE

Guarda

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s Az

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a. Ntr

el de Áng

la

de

CAL

Calle

tires

Már Av.

n lle Ca irecció D

nto . Sa

s

ista Mar

de la

Calle

Pº.

lde

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C.

a Avd

Oza

del Obispo

na

VIRGEN DE LA PALOMA

Alzaga Martín

ta

de

ADO MACH

Isla

800 m

s


TAXIDERMIC MADRID

STREET ART

FANTASY MADRID

SUN DIALS

Ana Nieto

Guillermo de la Madrid

Jimina Sabadú

Macu Vicente

Madrid is one of those cities in which tradition and modernity go hand in hand. Traditional items continue to enjoy pride of place in many bars and commercial premises, traditions with a certain hint of fustiness, revealing customs of the not too distant past. Such items include hunting trophies, animals stuffed with more or less skill: owls; blowfish; bull, deer or boar’s heads; tortoises; crocodiles; sharks; Chinese antelopes from the marshlands … a whole range of fauna spread across the city, staring at us out of their glass eyes, from the walls of bars, car parks and even print shops. In their day, they were the pride of the predator; today we consider them to be mere kitsch items. Along this route you will find all types of creatures outside their natural habitat, something that well defines this capital city, which is mainly inhabited by outsiders. A great museum of Natural Science, with no need to get an entry ticket.

Traditionally, passers-by (tourists, visitors or local people) have been bombarded with guides, maps and leaflets on timeless subjects, on things that have remained unchanged for centuries or that are designed or conceived to do so for centuries to come. In this way, visits are made to the majestic remains of the past and to the creations that are set to become part of a city’s present and future attractions. Urban art gets away from the requirements of traditional tourism: it has not been created to astound visitors, neither does it represent the history of the city, instead it is the artistic expression that personifies the everyday world and the daily life of these cities. And, although if you’re not careful you may loose the chance to see something (many disappear at the first signs of change), there are works and contributions that do remain. These are the ones that will be shown on this route: large murals, small contributions in unexpected places, works created specifically for the particular spot in question: all are represented in this itinerary.

Although, as a country and as far as fiction is concerned, Spain is more naturalistic than fantastic (because the Spanish reality has always exceeded our expectations), there have always been some incursions into the realm of fantasy. Perhaps not many, and with a clear foreign influence in almost all of these works. They were not created spontaneously but were the product of new (or old) tendencies coming from beyond the Pyrenees. However these few works do show a strong personality, the fruit of mixing foreign influences with Spanish characteristics (which could also be called defects: defeatism, disenchantment, or downright depression) and a little genuine talent present in most of the authors of the works reviewed. Although some works have not been included here, as they took place in buildings or places that no longer exist, those that are included in the list have two characteristics in common: they are still standing, and are interesting per se. With or without the work that adopted them. Let’s hope that you make the tour and that you awake the spirit (not the corpse) of a Madrid that existed, exists and will continue to exist. However much some are set on burying it alive.

It is said that “time doesn’t exist, that time is the things that happen to you”, however humanity has always needed to measure it. For centuries, the shadow cast by the sun was the universally-accepted form of measurement and its original standard was the “gnomon”, a stick perpendicularly embedded in the ground, whose shadow indicated the different hours of the day. In the city of Madrid, there are some 50 gnomons located in parks, on fountains and buildings. These gnomons are of different types: vertical; horizontal; cylindrical; equatorial … and they often go unnoticed. Even in our high-tech times, they are still a reality, given the fact that the majority were made in more or less recent urban renovations.

1 ALDAO - PARKING

C/ Caballero de Gracia, 7

2 ARMERÍA ESPAÑOLA

C/ Jesús, 6

4 EL PEZ GORDO

C/ Atocha, 55

C/ Pez, 6

1

Rapture Plaza de España, 19. Torre España

C/ de Eugenio Caxes, 1

2

The Path

Iglesia San Martín de Tours, c/Desengaño 26

3 BOA MISTURA

C/ de San Dimas, 23

3

CAFÉ LYON (The Merry Whale)

James Joyce Pub c/Alcalá 59

C/ del Tribulete, 18 (CALLEJÓN)

C/ Rafael Calvo, 40

Carrera de San Jerónimo, 5

3

IGLESIA DE SAN MARTÍN

C/ del Prado, 23

C/ de Cedaceros, 5

7 ROA. Esta es una plaza

2

FAJAS RUIZ

C/ Narváez, 12

3

C/ Bravo Murillo, 97

C/ de la Huerta del Bayo, 5

5

5

Miguel Servet, 14

The heart of the warrior Hotel Emperador. C/Gran Vía 53

9 SAM3

C/ Pedro Heredia, 23

10 THE GEOGRAPHIC CLUB

C/ Alcalá, 141

C/ de Antonio López, 19

10 SPACE INVADER

C/ Toledo, 76

C/ Huertas, 64

Plaza Tirso de Molina, 20

5

CINE IDEAL

C/ Doctor Cortezo, 6

5

Abandoned or empty land plots represent new frontiers of opportunity in consolidated urban centres. In times of property market stagnation, like the situation we are now experiencing, these abandoned areas become unexpected infrastructures for temporary activities. Until recently, the use of land plots was centred on public occupation, as in the case of Olivar 48. However there is now a trend towards experimenting with processes to provisionally assign public land to associations and social movements. We are interested in retrieving and looking at these sites in which the urban use of the land runs parallel to the planned use. Despite the differences existing with regard to the contents, history and dynamics of these sites, they all have one common denominator: Self-management. We are therefore going to use this thread as a criterion for mapping the route around these social centres. It will therefore be possible to take a look at a number of self-managed sites in different points of Madrid.

CANALEJAS Puerta del Sol, 6

As can be seen, the route is not particularly long: only a short while ago, bowling allies were prolific in Madrid, however, the appearance of more sophisticated leisure activities has put an end to what were actually meeting places for young people, in the style of amusement arcades, and these have now replaced by gambling houses in many cases. The bowling allies left in Madrid are no longer “neighbourhood allies”, with rudimentary lanes and quaint parishioners, but are located in shopping malls outside the Madrid city centre. As it was precisely these malls that were responsible for putting an end to neighbourhood entertainment, it is paradoxical that all the Madrid bowling allies but one are now located in these shopping centres.

1

LA PILUKA / HUERTO URBANO/ Solares

Plaza de Corcubión, 16, Prosperidad. Madrid

1

www.lapiluka.org/el-huerto-delbarrio/

BOWLING CHAMARTÍN

Agustín de Foxá, 26

2

CAMPO DE LA CEBADA

Plaza de la Cebada Nº16

2

DIVERBOWLING

elcampodecebada.org

Silvano, 77

3

ÉSTA ES UNA PLAZA/ HUERTO URBANO

3

ART DECÓ BOWLING

Paseo de la Ermita del Santo, 48

C/ Doctor Fourquet 24

www.estaesunaplaza.blogspot. com

4 ANTONIO GRILLO/ HUERTO URBANO

6 Embajadores, 39

Ever since the audiovisual quality of home entertainment has been in a position to compete with that offered by cinemas, theatres and concert halls, and whilst the city’s nightlife is invariably cut short by municipal regulations, bowling alleys continue to survive as leisure centres which have not yet encountered a worthy counterpart at home (not considering the virtual versions available for senior citizens. Bowling allies continue to need spacious premises, with specific conditions and, above all, with that kind of atmosphere reminiscent of a pagan temple that has always surrounded this type of sport-come-hobby, for teenagers trying to get rid of their hangovers. The bowling allies present in Madrid still conserve some of this antiquated American-style dignity, which makes them special.

C/ Antonio grillo Nº 8 www.solardegrilo.net/

6 BINGO RIOJANO

6 The day of the beast

7

7

The skull of Atahualpa

6 EMIR MOHAMED I C/ Mayor (antes Mateo Morral), 83

7

CHURRERÍA SAN GINÉS

7

GUERNIKAKO ARBOLA

C/ del Arenal, 11 (pasadizo de San Ginés)

C/ Montera, 48, semiesquina a Gran Vía.

C/ Silva, 2

8 TRIBUNAL DE LA INQUISICIÓN

Museo Ferroviario Delicias, pº Delicias 61

C/ Los Geranios Nº 22

C/ Pez Nº21 ıı www.patiomaravillas.net

LA TABACALERA C/ Embajadores Nº 53 latabacalera.net/ç

8 CENTRO SOCIAL SECO 9 Paseo de Recoletos, 15

4 OZONE

c) Calderilla, 1

6 EPA PATIO MARAVILLAS

C/ Torija, 12

9 HOTEL ATLÁNTICO

Gran Vía 38

9 TORRIJOS

9 LA ESKALERA DE CARACOLA

10 COLONIA SALUD Y AHORRO

10. TOPLESS MOCAMBO

C/ Bernardino Antequera y varias más

C/ Marqués de Leganés

C/ Arregui Nº 29 ıı www.cs-seco.org/

C/ Preciados, 32

Parroquia de Santa Bárbara, C/General Castaños, 2

10 Panic in the Trans-Siberian express

LAS VENTILLAS / HUERTO URBANO

7

C/ del Rollo. s/n

9 Memories of the fallen angel

5

tierraaire.wordpress.com/

8 BAR OSKAR

8 The tower of the seven hunchbacks

Plaza Jacinto Benavente, 91

Plaza de Santa Ana, 4

C/mártires de Alcalá con c/Princesa

9 PUERTA GRANDE

Carrera de San Jerónimo, 32-34

4 CERVECERÍA FREIDURÍA LA CARPA

8 Plaza del Rey, 1 8 ROSH. AFRODITA

PRIMER CINE

Plaza del Ángel, 10

4 Glorieta Puerta de Toledo

Todo por la Praxis

ROMBOS 15M

4 LEON FELIPE

C/ del Doctor Fourquet, 24

8 NORTE SUR

01 PLACA 15M Puerta del Sol

3 CAFÉ CENTRAL

6 NURIA MORA

John Tones

Madrid is full of streets dedicated to Catholicism, whilst hardly any are dedicated to cultural and natural values. There are none dedicated to Mozart, Beethoven, Shakespeare or Voltaire, in contrast to many other capital cities within Spain. Instead, there are a great many street names of shame, a reminder of the worst of the Franco regime. Over the last few decades, an attempt has been made to correct this anachronism, with a historical review that has only just begun and which has dedicated new nameplates and monuments to some key figures from the Spanish and European enlightenment. There are also nameplates dedicated to historical monuments in our cities that have nothing to do with politics or power. Today these are hardly noticed, such as the first cinema projection or the first time the Basque anthem was performed, as well as others which are more remote, from centuries past, which are now seen with a certain irony.

Plaza del Emperador Carlos V, 8

Plaza de Santa Soledad Torres Acosta

4 I have ships available

Fuente del Ángel Caído, Parque del Retiro

7 LA TAURINA

5 ELTONO

BOWLING ALLEYS

A look at self-managed plots.

1 HOTEL MEDIODÍA

4 BORONDO Y YETI

Having said this, the bulk of the city’s neon lights is made up of simple signs which, although on a more modest scale, have personalised their surroundings just as strongly, and are unconsciously registered in the minds of the passers-by. If the new regulations are strictly applied, it is highly unlikely that all these signs will survive. Furthermore, all the signs we’ve selected pertain to businesses which, although renovated, have existed for decades with concepts of times of old, making them unique in this quagmire of franchises and designer stores in which we are immersed.

LAND PLOTS.

Santi Ochoa

Barrio de Malasaña

Plaza del Ángel, 2

6 GRÁFICAS SANTA CRUZ

2 Calle del Reloj, 14

When talking about the Madrid neon scene, there is a tendency to limit its scope to the half a dozen signs displayed by the large companies. Signs which are repeatedly reproduced by the media and which were also reviewed in our first issue of this route. Signs which the municipal authorities have decided to leave out of their aesthetic witch hunt, thanks to public pressure.

NAME PLATES

2

Catedral de la Almudena C/Bailén 8-10

5 EL RINCÓN DE CARDEÑA

Avda. de Puerta de Hierro, 4

Adriana Herreros y Mauro Entrialgo

2 BLU

C/ Monte Esquinza, 5

3 EL OLIVAR

1 ALBERTO DE PEDRO

1 CIUDAD UNIVERSITARIA

Neon commercial signs

10 PLACA DE SAN PABLO Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 28

C/ Embajadores Nº 52 www.sindominio.net/karakola/

10 ESCUELA POPULAR LA PROSPE

C/ Luis Cabrera Nº 19 prosperesiste.nodo50.org/

05 BOWLING PARK

c) Aracne, 3

2011-2012. TURISMO RARO. Iñaki Larrimbe (English map)  
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