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Fashion Journal

By Maddy Willms

Introduction to Fashion Business Melissa Gamble

December 6, 2012

Table of Contents 1


Cover Letter…………………………………………………………………………1 Table of Contents…………………………………………………………………2 Entry #1 WWD………………………………………………………………… 3-4 Entry #2 WSJ……………………………………………………………………….5 Entry #3 Vogue…………………….. ……………………………………………..6 Entry #4 Fashion Observation………………………………………………7 Entry #5 Soft and Hard line…………………………………………………..8 Entry #6 Support/Reinforce…………………………………………………9 Entry #7 Current Fabric/Color Trends………………………………..10 Entry #8 Global Trends………………………………………………………11 Entry #9 Visual Displays…………………………………………………….12 Entry #10 New Movie Trend………………………………………….13-14 Entry #11 Internet: First View…………………………………………… 15 Entry #12 Job Responsibilities……………………………………………16 Entry #13 Fashion Don’ts……………………………………………… 17-19 2


Entry #14 Career Opportunities…………………………………….20-21

Entry #1 Women’s Wear Daily – November 1st, 2012

In the article Jeans Enter the Beauty Domain by Norma Quinto, Cosmetics and jeans pair up for an unlikely but beneficial combination. Denim brands are starting to add cosmetic qualities to aid in skin care, fight wrinkling, sagging, and weight gain. Different brands have been going on certain issues. For 3


example Chilean brand Mohicano Jeans feature anti-cellulite properties by using aloe vera in the cotton fibers. The aloe vera releases various vitamins, amino acids, enzymes and antioxidants, when it comes in contact with skin which reduce the appearance of stretch marks and cellulite. They also stimulate cell growth, collagen and elastin. An amsterdam-based company Gsus Sindustries has also been using aloe vera in their jeans to combat aging. Both companies have done studies which show impressive results, the jeans start to lose their effects after about 30 to 40 washes. The Mohicano Jeans retail for $90, while the Gsus retail for about $120. Even Wrangler, a brand you typically don’t associate with fashion is using anticellulite and natural elements in their jeans. They put their jeans to the test in a study that showed two-thirds of women were happier with their thighs after four weeks of everyday use. Italian brand LeRock claims to reduce the size of hips and thighs 0.7 inches each time you wear them. How, you might ask? The jeans carry complex cosmetics which dissolve fat accumulation, promote drainage and prevent excess water retention. A study done with 20 different women is said to back up this claim. Unlike the other jeans these jeans life cycle is considerably shorter, only allowing for 4 washes. However, you may purchase a 50ml bottle to reinfuse your jeans, which will run you around $32 a bottle. The jeans themselves range from $235-275. All of these new jeans are promise of a bright future for denim. This appeals to all women of many ages, demographics, and various incomes. I think brands like Wrangler are smart to join in this, because they are offering a similar product without a higher pricepoint. While you may only be able to make a jean in a limited amount of styles, by integrating things like cosmetics the possibilities are endless.

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Entry #2 Wall Street Journal - November 3, 2012

New Jersey announced that in lieu of Hurricane Sandy they will allow their voters to cast their ballots through e-mail and fax. These two options were made in hopes to make it easier on voters who were displaced due to the storm and also for emergency workers. However, officials urged everyone to vote early or through the normal process if they could. They were also allowing voters to vote outside of the county they are registered in. The polling places in New Jersey have backup paper ballots if the power happens to go out. I think this is a great idea, with the recent storm leaving many people with a ton of things to worry about having ballots available via email and fax takes away the stress of having to plan how they are going to cast their vote. This would be something to think about having for everyone in upcoming elections, I think it would entice more people to vote if it were as simple as emailing a ballot to cast your vote. 5


Entry #3 Vogue - October 11, 2012

With the kickoff of Wool Week in October it brought together top designers showing off their best British-made woollen garments in support of the wool industry. This celebration started as a campaign by The Prince of Wales in 2010. Designers like Vivenne Westwood, Missoni, Mark Fast, and Stella McCartney all used the versatile fabric in their collections for Autumn/Winter 2012-13 catwalks. Vivienne Westwood described wools as “one of the world’s greatest natural fibers, famous for its versatility and comfort - warm in winter, cool in summer.” This campaign not only helps the wool industry but designers seem to enjoy working with a fabric that was produced locally. All of the different designs show just how versatile wool is, with everything from dresses and skirts to sweaters and jumpers showing on the runway.

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Entry #4: Fashion Observation of the Current Season

One observation I made in this season’s runway shows was collars. They are showing up everywhere and thankfully they look nothing like private school uniforms or your grandmother’s old blouse. They have been given a bold new life, one that is catching on very quickly. These collars were seen in New York Fall Fashion Week at Tory Burch, Rodarte, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and the list goes on. Many of the collars take an edgy approach with studs and spikes. While others used delicate embellishments like pearls and gems adding a bold yet sophisticated feel.

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Entry #5: Soft and Hard line Trends

The trends I found while shopping at Macy’s included Geometric pattern, snakeskin, metal hardware, leather, and deep red color. The Geometric pattern I found in jewelry, home décor such as rugs, and apparel. Snakeskin was used heavily in purses, lamps, and hosiery. I found metal hardware popular on boots, pillows, and furniture. Leather was used traditionally in jackets but more as a trim than the entire jacket, gloves, and a lot in furniture especially chairs and ottomans. Finally, I noticed deep red as a popular color in women’s apparel, home décor such as vases and lamps, and furniture.

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Entry #6: Support/Reinforce Trends

Sue Evans for WGSN reported that “snakeskin and snake prints were both strong trends on the runways, with natural and recolored effects appearing side by side, as some designers even used natural python skins and snake prints together in one collection.” She also commented about leather saying “The emerging trend for decorative leather treatments is the latest development to bring good quality leather in at an affordable price-point.” Ellen Kirkhope for WGSN “Inspired by the 1960s, bold geometric prints evoke a modernist style, recently reinterpreted on the catwalks for spring/summer 2013.” Metal Hardware is also expected to stick around for further seasons says Jacqui Ma “A move-on from the chunky, masculine protective plates seen on boots and covering heels and wedges, plating is becoming more delicate and used more sparingly. Importantly the styles furnished with metal plating are more diverse, as we see more vintage silhouettes updated with this style of ultra-modern armoury for an unexpected combination.” Lastly, Carol Althaller talks about popular colors this season including wine red. “A constant across all the fashion capital’s runways this season, these rich wine reds offer one of the most commercial color stories for next winter.”

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Entry #7: Fabric Swatches and Color Trends

The color fabrics I choose were representative of Pantone’s 2013 Spring color trend report including lemon zest, dusk blue, and tender shoots. The top left yellow fabric was called lemon yellow, fiber content 96% silk and 4% lycra, country of origin was China. The top middle fabric was called pale blue, fiber content was also 96% silk and 4% lycra, country of origin was China. The top right fabric was called Olive, cotton blend, and from China. The pattern fabrics I chose based on Spring/Summer ’14 print and graphics forecast including geometric pattern, textural, and geological inspiration. The bottom left fabric is called fall favorite, 100% silk, and made in China. The bottom middle fabric was called After Storm, 80% polyester 20% rayon, and made in Taiwan. The bottom right fabric was called Burnout Bouquet, poly-blend, and from China.

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Entry #8: Trend Projections from Global Inspiration

When shopping in stores and looking to WGSN global trends I found three trends to fall under both categories, which I predict will continue into the next two seasons. In the Spring/Summer ‘12/13 Australia shows “boy meets girl” was brought to life with masculine styling and tapered cropped trousers. While shopping in stores blazers were often paired with matching pants or over a feminine piece to give it that masculine edge. There was also a wide range of bold metallics in shades of pewter, gold, and silver. In Dragao Autumn/Winter collections hand-crafted was a key look emphasizing texture and imperfections. This was often portrayed with different knit sweaters and shawls. Given the winter season has arrived there is a plethora of knit goods at our disposal whether it be hats, scarves, sweaters, or gloves. The rise of sites like Pinterest and craft blogs also play a part in this hand-crafted trend, which often emphasize the art of Do-It-Yourself crafts and goods. Lastly, I looked at Autumn/Winter ‘12/13 Polish Fashion Week, which took inspiration from the 60s with A-line dresses, rounded shoulder tops and coats, and cropped cigarette pants. The color palette stayed a safe monochrome with pale shades of black, silver, and violet. In stores this trend has been slowly starting to make it’s way in to stores. The muted color palette I saw frequently in handbags along with color blocking. Rounded shoulders especially in coats, has been a change of scenery from the dramatic straight shoulders seen in previous seasons. 11


Entry #9: Visual Displays

This visual display is from Urban Outfitters on State Street. What I really like about this display is that while it is festive and has Christmas lights and decorations it’s not over the top or solely focused on Christmas. I also think the cutouts are really fun and I think they always do a nice job making their displays very unique and eye catching drawing you into the store.

This visual display is from Anthropologie also located on State Street. I like that they took a very minimalist approach. I like the cloud background it gives the display a 12


whimsical feel. I think especially around the holidays when stores try to pack all their merchandise into their windows to lure in customers, this is a refreshing display.

Entry #10: New Movie Trend

I watched the movie Argo, a film about the Iranian Revolution in the late 70s where six U.S. diplomats working in Tehran, Iran fled the country under CIA operative, 13


Tony Mendez. In the movie they showcased traditional 70s attire including tweed blazers, exaggerated collars, and a love for rust brown. Tweed blazers have been featured in everything from GQ Japan in September to Morris for Autumn/Winter 2012/13. Exaggerated collars have been showing up a lot in women’s fashion often featuring beading or other hardware. Finally, rust brown has been a popular choice for winter as it pairs well with wools and cashmere. This trend has also been highlighted in Japan for Vogue and Mauro Girfoni’s autumn/winter 2012/13 line.

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Entry #11: Internet I choose Elie Saab’s Haute Couture Runway Collection for Fall/Winter 2012. While you can’t buy Elie Saab Haute Couture in retailers, he does have a ready-to-wear collection, which can be found at NeimanMarcus, Bergdorf Goodman, and just recently the first American store a shop within a shop opened at Saks Fifth Avenue in Santa Fe, New Mexico. I choose this particular gown because I think it is absolutely stunning. I think Elie Saab does an exquisite job in making his gowns both sexy and elegant. The deep v neckline shows off some skin while the rest of her is covered mostly with a sheer lace. I think the choice of materials is what makes this gown more than just a pretty black floor-length dress. It’s covered and darker where necessary in the bust and torso, while sheer lace covers the sleeves and bottom of the dress creating that sexy and elegant feel. The little details like the lace lined bust and hand beaded accents complete the dress and make it that much more decadent. 15


Entry #12 Job Descriptions

As a fashion designer your responsibilities include creating and producing a design, staying up to date with upcoming trends especially in shapes, fabrics, and colors, planning and developing ranges, working with buyers and forecasters to meet a brief, be knowledgeable of sales, market, and price points, sourcing, choosing and purchasing fabrics, trims, fastenings and embellishments. Depending on how large the company they may also oversee production, negotiate with suppliers and customers, and manage the marketing and finances. A buyer takes on the responsibility of analyzing consumer buying patterns, predicting future trends, frequently reviewing performance indicators, managing plans for stock levels, reacting to changes in demand and logistics, meeting with suppliers and negotiating terms of contract, maintaining relationships with suppliers and sourcing new suppliers for future products, attending trade fairs, writing reports and forecasting sales levels. Product Development Managers are responsible for conceptualizations, construction, selling, and distribution of a designer or manufacturer’s products. Managers also specialize in development and planning and finding opportunities in marketing. As a product development manager you will also oversee the preparation and implementation of quality assurance protocols for the client’s products.

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Entry #13: Fashion Don’ts

Sneaker Wedges are definitely a fashion don’t in my book. Anything that looks like you’ve just come from the gym and you forgot to change your shoes shouldn’t be walking down the runway. I can understand wanting to look stylish and be comfortable at the same time, but that doesn’t mean you have to look like you just stepped off the basketball court. If you are really looking to be comfortable and stylish save yourself the embarrassment and wear flats.

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Denim overkill rears it’s ugly head at the Jeremy Scott’s Spring 2012 runway show. Solely because you can make a denim jumpsuit doesn’t mean you should. Denim on denim brings back horrible memories of growing up in the 90s, watching pop stars wear out this trend. Sadly this trend hasn’t seemed to become as irrelevant as the people who wore them more than a decade ago.

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These models have the right idea in putting on their sunglasses, because this trend is far too bright and obnoxious than anyone would care to lay eyes on. From the green shorts to the awful yellow pants this trend looks good on no one. If you are looking for a family color to wear to Disneyland so no one gets lost, these get my vote. However, any other occasion and I would stay as far from these as possible.

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While this may be an appropriate look if you’re looking to hit the town in hopes of dancing to the Saturday Day Night Fever soundtrack, I don’t know many men willing to brave this sequined jacket otherwise. While the sequin is bad enough, the fact that it’s also a purple pink color doesn’t help it’s cause. Perhaps this look would fare better in the women’s line.

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Entry #14: Career Opportunities

As a fashion publicist you work to build a specific brand image in hopes to reach target markets and create awareness. It is their job to establish a positive image of a brand into the minds of consumers, and also maintaining this image through various creative promotional techniques. I believe this would be a good fit because it allows me to work both with marketing and fashion business. I really like the idea of working with different brands and using creative strategies to build their brand. Fashion Editors take on the role analyzing the fashion scene and interpreting it for readers. They determine the direction, create the mood and control the quality of a publication’s content. You also oversee all the articles and what will be featured, and work with many different industry professionals. The job of a fashion editor appeals to me because you are very hands on in every aspect of the job. Fashion editors have a very stressful job but they also play a hugely important role in Fashion and the have a lot of impact on the industry itself. Event coordinators are in charge of organizing all fashion events for a brand, designer, or fashion house. They deal with the logistics like press, celebrity appearances, catering, visuals and production. They also maintain all attendees in database software, organize and distribute printed materials and send out invitations. I think I would be good at event coordinating because I am very organized, particular, and have excellent time management. I also love events, whether it be going to them or putting one on I love seeing all the work that goes into making events happen such as Fashion Week. 21


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Entry #1 Women’s Wear Daily - November 1, 2012 November 1, 2012

Jeans Enter the Beauty Domain By Norma Quinto

BERLIN — Jeans have long been the popular way to help women look cool, fit and sexy with styles, silhouettes and construction details that lift, push up and shape the wearer. Now in their latest episode of reinvention, denim brands are taking on cosmetic qualities designed to add skin care and combat wrinkling, sagging and even weight gain. Chilean brand Mohicano Jeans launched a jeans cosmetics concept with aloe vera, while its new Denim Therapy collection features jeans with anticellulite properties. As brand manager Ricardo Cuevas explained, “The Denim Therapy collection was created with the latest technology, incorporating nanoparticles of aloe vera in the cotton fibers. When these particles come in contact with the skin, they provide several vitamins, such as vitamin E, amino acids,

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enzymes and antioxidants, reducing the appearance of cellulite and stretch marks. These stimulate cell growth, collagen and elastin.” The latter, as the name suggests, helps cells that have been stretched to snap back to their original shape, not unlike the way stretch fibers have been enhanced to improve their recovery. Cuevas claimed that after “wearing the jeans for at least six hours per day for 15 days, this special denim will have increased the skin’s hydration by about 11.5 percent. It’s a hypoallergenic fabric — ideal for sensitive skin — and prevents odors and the formation of mites.” Results were verified by a study conducted by Brazilian firm Kosmoscience that tested the jeans on women with dry skin. Kosmoscience is the same firm that certifies the skin-care claims for cosmetics firms such as Unilever, Revlon and Natura. In order for the jeans to last longer, Mohicano recommended washing inside-out at 86 degrees with a neutral detergent and hang-drying them without wringing them first. The downside is that the effects of these aloe vera nanoparticles are active for up to 40 washes, after which the jeans lose the cosmetic properties and become essentially just a regular pair of jeans. They are set to retail for about $85. Similar benefits are found in Wrangler’s new Denim Spa Therapy for Legs collection, which has anticellulite, moisturizers and other natural elements infused into the denim. “This is a revolutionary product that will change women’s jeans forever,” declared Adam Kakembo, vice president of product. “They look great and feel great, but the real difference is that these soft jeans moisturize your skin as you wear them.” The jeans’ therapeutic finishes have aloe vera or olive extracts to soothe the skin. The company claims that the collection’s jeans contain circulation-boosting and cellulite-reducing elements, and also feature moisturizers and a delicate jasmine fragrance. Kakembo said the jeans were tested in a trial involving 160 women. “Two-thirds said their thighs were more attractive after four weeks with everyday wear,” he reported. He further noted that the initial loading of cosmetic ingredients would provide benefits for 15 days of wear or four to six washes. The olive extract and aloe vera treatment is expected to last six to eight washes. After that, they need to be sprayed to reload the effects. They retail for 99.95 euros, or about $130.50 at current exchange. Amsterdam-based Gsus Sindustries (pictured left) launched its “made by instinct” program

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with aloe vera denim for women. The denim is dipped in an extract of the aloe vera plant and the result is a special finish on the inside of the jeans. The aloe vera bonds to the fibers of the denim, allowing it to moisturize the skin each time it is worn. There is no particularly different smell to the jeans, but what is noticeable is that they get softer as they are worn. “Originating from Sudan, this plant has been used thousands of years for its healthy effects, protecting the skin against early aging and UV light,” brand creative director Jan Schrijver explained. “The aloe vera in our jeans help to protect the skin from premature aging by reducing the effects that noxious pollutants and UV exert upon us. It’s all about looking good while feeling great in your jeans.” To test the longevity of the jeans, Gsus’ laundry intensively washed them 30 times and still detected the presence of aloe vera. One drawback is that Gsus does not yet have a way to keep the aloe vera in the jeans. They are working on and testing a spray can filled with aloe vera liquid to replenish the effects. The aloe vera jeans are manufactured in Tunisia and retail for 89.95 euros, or about $117.47 at current exchange. Italian brand LeRock has taken its cosmetic concept one step further with jeans it claims reduce the size of hips and thighs 0.7 inches every time you wear them. Eve LeRock, created by Luca Berti, professes to dissolve fat and fight cellulite and it backs the claim with tests carried out on 20 women by the University of Pavia. “These jeans are able to fight the dimples that appear in women’s legs due to heredity or weight gain. Our Eve jeans are loaded with complex cosmetics that dissolve fat accumulation, promote drainage and prevent excess water retention,” Berti commented. The cosmetic jeans are a collaboration with Florence Bombard, a French cosmetologist specializing in skin care. The fabric of the jeans is equipped with microcapsules that release when they come in contact with the skin and due to the natural massage obtained by walking. “The fibers of the jeans are infused with a patented drug that includes three components: caffeine, escin and vitamin E,” Berti explained. “Caffeine is responsible for dissolving fat storage; escin (also known as horse chestnut) is used to promote microcirculation and protects the skin, and finally, vitamin E is an antioxidant element.

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“Combining these elements in the fabric manages to dramatically reduce fat mass by just wearing the jeans because these active ingredients continue to work as we carry on our daily life of either sitting in the office or walking down the street,� he continued. These effects have a duration of 28 days, allowing for four washes in 86-degree water. After this period, the fibers in the jeans have to be recharged with the fluid provided in a 50-ml. bottle. Each pair of jeans comes with one free cosmetic kit and additional cosmetic supplies costs 25 euros, or about $32. Eve LeRock dark denim retails for 180 euros, or about $235, and the lighter wash is 210 euros, or about $275.

Entry #2 Wall Street Journal - November 3, 2012

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New Jersey Gives Voters Email, Fax Options By LISA FLEISHER

Voters in New Jersey now have two more ways to send in their ballots in an already unusual election season complicated by superstorm Sandy: via fax and email. The Christie administration said Saturday that the additional options are aimed at giving displaced residents and emergency workers another way to vote and that the ballots would be cast provisionally. Administration officials urged people who could to vote early or through the normal process. The administration said people could cast those ballots in two steps. First, they should email or fax an application for a mail-in ballot through their county clerk's office. Once that application is approved, voters can email or fax the ballot by 8 p.m. Tuesday. "This has been an extraordinary storm that has created unthinkable destruction across our state, and we know many people have questions about how and where to cast their vote in Tuesday's election," said Lt. Governor Kim Guadagno, who doubles as the secretary of state and oversees elections. "To help alleviate pressure on polling places, we encourage voters to either use electronic voting or the extended hours at county offices to cast their vote." People will also be able to vote somewhere other than the county in which they are registered, the administration said. 27


Mail-in ballots must be postmarked by Nov. 5. Many places in New Jersey were slowly seeing the lights flick back on Saturday. But any polling places without power by Tuesday will also have trucks with backup options for voting by paper ballot. Gov. Chris Christie said voters could go back to the "old-fashioned way," even if it might take a bit more time to count the votes. County election offices have been ordered to open from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. this weekend, and Mr. Christie encouraged people to vote early. People can also vote in person at their county clerks' offices until 3 p.m. Tuesday.

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Entry #3 Vogue - October 11, 2012 Wool Rules 11 OCTOBER 2012 TILLY MACALISTER-SMITH

WOOL WEEK kicks off today, the annual celebration of the on-going Campaign for Wool initiative patronised by His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales. Launched in 2010 to promote British-made woollen garments and support the wool industry, the heritage fabric rolled out across the autumn/winter 2012-13 catwalks. Vivienne Westwood, who uses traditional Scottish mills to spin her highland tartans explains, "Wool is one of the world's great natural fibres, famous for its versatility and comfort - warm in winter, cool in summer." Missoni side-stepped away from the house's zig-zag signature weave and experimented with swirling patterns in mohair and cashmere yarns. Margaret Howell's Fair Isle knits were worn with woollen pressed trousers and drummer boy felt pom-pom berets, while at Nicole Farhi, chartreuse felted wool skirts were paired with smooth charcoal blazers. Mark Fast, renowned for his figure-hugging crochet knits, this season opted for a weightier graphic ribbed knit that took the shape of pencil skirts slashed to the thigh and cropped jumpers. Topshop Unique's cross motif jumper has already been spotted on everyone from Alexa Chung to Daisy

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Lowe, and Burberry's owl motif knit showed the witty side of the heritage powerhouse. Pringle, the house built on argyle, was given an overhaul in the hands of Alistair Carr who reworked classic shapes such as the V-neck jumper, updating it in pink neon mohair, while Stella McCartney breathed new life to the classic twinset; bare legs added sex appeal and bold saturated colours felt punchy and relevant. As Vivienne Westwood explained, "The British twinset is absolutely gorgeous. You can add more than one layer and it looks great. You can wear your cardigan back to front with a string of pearls. I love buttoned-up cardigans on men, that's so sexy."

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Fashion Journal