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Issue # 8/18— April—June 2018.

BEAUTIFUL MADANG: Cathryn photographed with Lewis & Johna Aser from Biliau Island, Madang Lagoon SOME FUTURE EVENTS IN MADANG

IN THIS ISSUE OF MELANESIAN NEWS

APEC Meeting will take place in Port Moresby in November. Some of the smaller meetings are scheduled to take place in Madang in June & September.

PNG NATIONALMEDICAL CONFERENCE This year the Madang Resort will host the National PNG Medical Symposium in Augusr where it is expected that more than 250 delegates from PNG and overseas will take part in this annual event. .

2018 MADANG CULTURAL SHOWS Bilum Festival on Kar Kar Island Jun 2 & 3. Madang Festival Queen’s Birthday Weekend on Jun 9 & 10. DWU Cultural Show on Saturday Aug 18 Other District Cultural Shows in Simbai, Raiks & Bogia 2018 SEPIK CRUISES KALIBOBO SPIRIT (6 NIGHTS) August 12 & Sep 18 Madang/Lower, Middle Sepik/ Madang

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Beautiful Madang | International Meetings to take place at the Madang Resort 2018 Coral Expeditions of the Sepik | Refurbishment of Madang Resort. Niugini Dive Adventures. Long Island Research. Historic Kieger Translation and the earliest maps of Sepik River chartered by Prof N Shultze in 1910 The story of Nikolay Mikouho-Maclay and the visit of his Grandson who shares the same name in 2017.

Next Edition will feature a report archaeological fieldwork by Professor Glenn Summerhayes, Kenneth Miamba, Dr Dylan Gaffney during their visit to Kar Kar Island in Feb 2018. A report on the devastating 7.5 earthquake in PNG Highlands and the finding of AE Submarine, missing for over 100 years near Rabaul.

MELANESIAN TOURIST SERVICES LIMITED P.O. Box 707, Madang, Papua New Guinea T: +675 4222655 F: +675 4222543 E: info@mtspng.com


CORAL EXPEDITIONS OF SEPIK RIVER The Coral Expedition 2 complete 4 expeditionary cruises along the Sepik River. The ship was based in Madang at the Madang Resort Marina, MTS provided a Ray Maiko as the Pilot and Sir Peter Barter escorted the first trip up river. MTS are hopeful that Coral Expeditions will again operate up to 10 cruises of the Sepik in 2019, if not they will consider reintroducing scheduled cruises to supplement the Kalibobo Spirit that operates charters to the Sepik and other ports and islands in PNG. Amongst the lectures was Dame Carol Kidu, a well known personality who amongst other things described he life over 50 years in PNG. The success of such cruises depends in the satisfaction of the passengers and we attach one letter which is consistent with other reviews received from many passengers. “Dear Peter we thoroughly enjoyed the 5 nights we stayed at your Madang complex either side of a wonderful & fascinating Sepik River cruise with Coral Expeditions on our first visit to PNG. On our first night we were delighted to be invited aboard the Kalibobo Spirit for a trip with Jordan, Richard & some other guests to Bagabag Island. We thought we were venturing out for 3-4 hours so it was a great surprise to find we had a full day's adventure in store. Thanks very much, Peter, for a wonderful introduction to the delights of PNG and for making us even more happy that we had decided to stay 4 nights instead of just 2 before heading off on the Sepik cruise. We were also impressed, Peter, by the many unsolicited comments we heard from staff, villagers and stall owners very appreciative of your efforts to provide jobs, accommodation, training experiences, overseas travel, schooling and other services. This appreciation was also expressed through the cordial and friendly efforts of staff across the complex. We were always made welcome and greeted with smiles and genuine attempts to help in any way. In particular, Elaine and Alison were always happy to answer any queries in an obliging and efficient manner, Busybee and Vincent were informative and helped us relax, Regi was very engaging in the restaurant and every other member of staff made us feel at home. Our rooms were comfortable, the meals satisfying and we soaked up the joys of strolling in the lush gardens, watching the passing boat traffic on the sea passage, being entertained by the hornbill's antics and cooling off in the pool. It was a wonderful prelude to our interaction with the Sepik River villagers which ranks with the best overseas experiences we have had. Already other travellers are emailing us with similar reactions and planning on revisiting Madang and the Sepik. Like us they have also taken to review sites to highlight their satisfaction. Congratulations and thanks to both of you and all your staff for what has been a rewarding and hugely satisfying experience. Best wishes, Robyn & Larry NSW Australia�

CORAL EXPEDITION II on Sepik River

MADANG RESORT & KALIBOBO VILLAGE REFIRBISHMENT We have almost completed the refurbishment of the Madang Resort and Kalibobo Village, the final work will be the upgrade of the Raffles Wing currently underway and the construction of a Resort Pool designed by Andrew Prowse a renown landscape architect who has largely designed the parks and gardens in Cairns Queensland, Australia.


LINKS TO VARIOUS VIDEOS & PUBLICATIONS

NIUGINI DIVE ADVENTURES We welcome Naciane ……. Our new PADI Dive Instructor who will join Taka Yamaguchi along with our team of dive masters at NDA. We have confidence that he will enable us to handle the increasing number of divers who are beginning to realize that diving in Madang is equal, or not better than anywhere else in the world. We are receiving bookings for extended diving to Bagabag Island and this is how Taka described his last visit to Bagabag.

“I dived with Jordan and Max. on the barrier reef we could see crystal clear water and many pelagic fish from boat. There scores of grey and silver tip sharks, reefs were untouched and alive. Diving at Bagabag is extraordinarily good. After diving we enjoyed a swim on white sand beach and took pictures of kids who equally enjoyed our visit—I am quite sure this could become a major dive site in future years and look forward to further dives in the foreseeable future. TPA Japan have arranged Agent FAM trips in June from Japan & China to Madang. Other FAM trips have taken place in February and a special Tour Operator and Media visit in July.” Taka has produced a number of videos on diving in Madang download the following links shown on the table in next column.

The following links provide you the opportunity of downloading publications and videos that may be helpful to you in knowing more about MTS, Madang Resort, Kalibobo Village, Niugini Dive Adventures and Papua New Guinea. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

The images & videos Resort – bit.ly/mrhresort PNG Underwater Treasures – bit.ly/pngunderwater Madang Dive Planet Rock – bit.ly/planetrockmdg Madang & DWU show 2017 – bit.ly/madangdwu PNG islands cruise book – bit.ly/pngislands Melanesian Tourist Website – bit.ly/mtspng Sepik River Cruise – bit.ly/sepikbook Madang Resort – bit.ly/madangresort Madang NDA Diving – bit.ly/madangdive Australian Book – bit.ly/autour17 Melanesian Newsletter #6 – bit.ly/mtsnews6 Sepik River Best – bit.ly/sepik2016 Madang Resort—http://bit.ly/mrhvimeo Madang Resort—U-Tube: http://bit.ly/madresort Kieger New Guinea—https://www.amazon.com/New-Guinea-JohnDennison/dp/1983423289

2018 KALIBOBO SCHEDULED CRUISES (For full details contact MTS) The Kalibobo Spirit, a30m luxury motor yacht will undertake several scheduled cruise in 2018. (Other dates available for charter) June 08-11 (Queen’s Birthday Weekend) - 3 nights Kar Kar & Bagabag Superb diving plus activities ashore for non-divers. July 21-23 (Remembrance Day Weekend) -2 Nights Bagabag Island. Dive Aug 11-17 (DWU Show) - 6 nights Sepik | Boisa | Manam | Madang. Aug 18-20 (Maclay Visit) - 2 Night visit to Constantine Harbour & Gorendu Village, Astrolabe Bay (diving and non divers) Sep 07-14 (Goroka Show) - 7 nights Sepik BOOKED OUT. Sep 15-18 (Independence Weekend) - 3 nights Kar Kar |Bagabag Island. Sep 18-24 (Goroka Show) - 6 Nights Madang | Sepik | Boisa | Madang Nov 17-24 Madang | Trobriand Is | Salamaua | Tufi | Alotau—7 Nights Dec 22-29 Alotau, Trobriand Is, Dobu | Tufi | Tami | Madang—8 Nights


Significance and timing of the mid-17thcentury eruption of Long Island, Papua New Guinea (Taimtudak) Russell Blong, Stewart Fallon, Rachel Wood, Chris McKee, Keping Chen, Christina Magill and Sir Peter Barter ABSTRACT Whether this eruption occurred before or after William Dampier sailed past, named, described and drew a profile of Long Island has been debated also. Dating the Long Island eruption has implications for assessing the rate of revegetation of the island, recolonisation of the island and caldera lake, Jared Diamond’s theory of ‘supertramp’ birds, correlations between major eruptions and ice core chronologies, the constant rate of

supply model of 210Pb concentration in lake sediments, reservoir effects in Lake Kutubu in the southern highlands of PNG, the timing of a prehistoric phase of agriculture in the Western Highlands and the longevity of oral histories recording a “taim tudak“ (time of darkness) when sand fell from the sky, houses collapsed, crops were ruined and people died. Pictures : Long Island, Active volcano on Island in Lake Wisdom, |show This paper reviews early dates based on radiocarbon, 210Pb and paleosecular magnetic variation, his- Prof Russell Blong, Chris Fallon & Local kids assisting with collection of log remains & Chris Fallon taking logs for carbon testing at ANU. torical reports and genealogical dates from oral histories, and speculation based on tree ring and ice core evidence. Analyses of 10 new radiocarbon Download Link: ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1177/0959683617735589 We gratefully acknowledge the following individuals: Jack Golson who initiated the search for tephra in archaeological sites in the Western Highlands in 1970 and his continuing interest in our efforts to refine the dating; Ian Hughes who first proposed, in the mid-1970s, that Long Island might be the source of Tibito Tephra; Colin Pain who accompanied CMcK and RB to Long Island in 1976 and extended far and wide our understanding of the distribution of Tibito Tephra; Geoff Hope who over more than 40 years cored far-flung lakes and bogs that contained Tibito across the highlands; Mike Prebble for his identification of the tree species in our 14C sample collection in 2014; and Paul Grasso for his manipulation of spreadsheets. We are extremely grateful also to the staff of the Madang Resort Hotel, Andrew Barter and the crew of the Kalibobo Spirit for making the visit by RB, SF and CMcK to Madang and Long Island in 2014 so pleasant and rewarding. We also want to thank Frank Oldfield and two anonymous reviewers.


MAXIMILIAN KIEGER’S NEW GUINEA TRANSLATED INTO ENGLISH FOREWORD OF BOOK by Professor Glen Summerhayes & Glen Dennison.

MTS RELEASES 2018 RATES FOR ACCOMMODATION, DIVING & CRUISES IN PAPUA NEW GUINEA You can download the rate sheets and brochures from the MTS, Madang

This is the fourth publication translated from German into English by John Dennison for the Otago University Anthropology/Archaeology Publication Series. Krieger’s Neu-Guinea was published in 1899. This book is a hefty tome at 522 pages, providing a detailed study into the island of New Guinea: its history, geography, its flora and fauna and its people. This book covers Kaiser-Wilhelmsland (New Guinea), British Neu Guinea (Papua) and Dutch Neu-Guinea (Irian Jaya or West Papua) in minute detail, taken mostly from every published article/book available to the author. The result is a magnificent book ending with a chapter by Professor von Luschan called “Contributions to the Ethnography of New Guinea” which focuses on selected items of material culture. We would like to dedicate this book to someone who, over many decades of faithful service, has made momentous contributions to Papua New Guinea: Sir Peter Barter GCL Kt OBE PhD (Hon). Sir Peter has made major contributions to many areas of PNG, including The Divine Word University, the Museum and Cultural Centre of Madang, the Tourist industry of PNG, and many others aspects of health and education, Sir Peter facilitated the research of many academics working in Madang, including archaeological research teams led by Summerhayes and others. He encouraged them to undertake research in Madang, and provided resources enabling the success of their projects. His enthusiasm and vision were inspirationalWe cannot thank him enough! https://www.amazon.com/New-Guinea-John-Dennison/dp/1983423289

SCHUTLTZE MAPS OF SEPIK EIVER 1910 In addition to the Kieger translation, the Melanesian Foundation was given original copies of maps drawn up by Prof. Dr. Leonard Schultze Jena in 1910 of the Sepik River. The maps have been restored, framed and will be presented to the Noser Library at the Divine Word University by the Melanesian Foundation. Sir Peter Barter said that the accuracy of these maps is quite extraordinary given the lack of technological aids available in 1910. The changes in river courses over the last 100 years will enable us to determine the course of the river in the future, this will help the people locate their villages in more secure locations. Sir Peter said that whilst his company had been operating ships along the Sepik River for 50 years, these original maps provided valuable information on the changes made to the course of the river and the preservation for future generations will provide base line studies in the future, particular to changes that occur naturally caused by erosion.

Sepik River

The early German Exploration also gave an insight into the culture, architecture, art and life in general within the Sepik Region. Professor Schultze took time to record many aspects of life which until recently was only available in German. The translation into English can now be used extensively to educate the young people on their heritage prior to civilization and to correct many assumptions made by Germans, Australians, Japanese and now Papua New Guineans who now have access to these valuable records.

Resort and Kalibobo Village website as shown below:

NEW VIDEOS We have commissioned two new videos on the Madang Resort , Diving and the Sepik River aboard the Coral Expedition 2 which provide you with information on the Resort, Diving plus a cruise up the Sepik River See the directory on page 3 to obtain the links to download any of the above publications and video.

NEW STAFF We have two new management staff joining us this month in Madang, they include Naganieli Yavala (Naga) a Fijian PADI Dive Instructor who will be assisting Taka at Niugini Dive Adventures. His appointment will enable us to undertake overnight dive charters aboard the Kalibobo Spirit to Bagabag and other offshore islands in PNG, easy to remember Taka and Naga! Glen Chong, a PNG of Chinese descent who has spent a number of years working as a chef in a number of international hotels and restaurants. He is joining us as Training Chef whilst Abraham continues to be the Head Chef. We are considering reopening the Janek Aben Coffee Shop as well as adding Chinese food to this restaurant but retaining the famous Haus Win Restaurant for eastern and Island food.

P&O CRUISES TO PNG The Pacific Aria was scheduled to visit Madang on Feb 14 but received fake news through “facebook” that Anthrax has been discovered in Madang. Despite the ship having a clearance of anthrax from NAQIA the Captain decided to abort the visit leaving hundreds of people distraught both on the ship and those hundreds of people who had dressed in traditional dress to entertain the passengers. Whilst we have received an apology and a promise to compensate those involved, we are still waiting for Carnival to refund MTS for what we paid those who were contracted to provide services. . Pacific Aria Madang

There is no Anthrax in Madang


THE RUSSIAN EXPLORER NICKOLAY MIKLOUHOMACLAY By Sarah Dean For Mailonline

Nicholay Miklouho-Maclay

When a bold Russian explorer arrived with two servants on the rugged coast of New Guinea in 1871, the tribe he encountered had never met a white man before. The feared people inhabiting the world's second-largest island, in the southwestern Pacific, had a fierce reputation as headhunters and cannibals and Nickolay Miklouho-Maclay’s life was very much in danger as he stepped ashore. But - as he explained in his diary - his 'defenselessness' was his safety. Maclay showed no aggression towards the Papuans and in return, they decided to let him live.

The handsome 25-year-old had endured a gruelling 10-month long sea voyage from Kronstadt, in St Petersburg, Russia, on the corvette ‘Vityaz’, when he tentatively landed at Astrolabe bay, 1,472 miles north of Australia, on September 20, 1871.

tive called home for three years Local men, women and children dressed up in traditional garb to Welcome Maclay junior to the village

When he arrived, the locals did not know how to light a fire and Maclay soon found himself living a simple lifestyle, drinking water from the streams and taking up a vegetarian diet. ‘He did not eat meat, he drank only tea and coco milk and washed in the stream which was not far from the cabin,’

Residents of the neighbouring villages of Bongu, Gumbu and Gorendu, turned out dressed in festive tribal clothes and gathered on the shore to welcome the expedition team.

Children smile for the camera after Nickolay's arrival on the Maclay Unlike the many white Europeans plotting to colonise the island, Coast, on the northeast of what is now known as Papua New Maclay sought to understand and protect the indigenous population. Guinea Maclay was greeted by spear-wielding Maclay is drawn with his friend Papuan Tui locals when he first stepped ashore in New and speaking with the locals in images from Guinea on September 20, 1871 The eshis expeditions Maclay left St Petersburg teemed Russian explorer is pictured with a on the 8th November 1870. He eventually Papuan boy named Ahmad ready for the landed on Astrolabe bay, on the northeast jungle in this image taken circa 1873 coast of New Guinea, in September 1871 Maclay's great-great-grandson is greeted after visiting many countries along the way. by descendants of the same tribe his anPictured: His ship the 'Vityaz' (pictured) cestor befriended in Papua New Guinea Nickolay junior, 44, and his expedition team 150 years ago flew from Russia and arrived in Port MoA local Papuan dressed in ceremonial gear resby, the capital of Papua New Guinea, on re-enacts how Maclay was greeted when September 15, 2017. stepped ashore in 1871 and became the They continued on a small plane to the first white man to meet the tribe from Madang Resort Marina where they were Gorendu Village. ushered aboard the motor luxury yacht Vityaz—Russian Corvette arriving with Maclay The anthropologist set up home on the Kalibobo Spirit Captained by Sir Peter BarMaclay Coast, on the northeast of what is ter and set sail to the northeastern Maclay Rai Coast, formerly now known as Papua New Guinea, and began to live alongside the known as the Maclay Coast. islanders to disprove a commonly held 19th-century belief that difUnlike Miklouho-Maclay senior’s first harrowing encounter with the ferent human races belong to differlocal people, the villagers welcomed his descendant and the expedient species. tion team with great honour. Spear-throwing tribes speaking Sir Peter, former Government Minister and Governor of Madang hundreds of different languages who has lived in Papua New Guinea for over 50 years had informed were not the only challenge Maclay the villagers of the team’s visit and of the young Maclay’s wish to faced - the threat of disease was meet the descendants of those who remembered his ancestor. also very real.

‘Nickolay and his team arrived. Miklouho-Maclay’s descendant had Local men dressed in traditional gear made from shells and leaves perform a dance to welcome the Russian expedition to their village

Almost 150 years after Maclay first met the Papuans, his ancestor and namesake Nickolay MiklouhoMaclay has now made a pilgrimage to the island to meet the same tribe his relative devoted his life's work to. Their journeys and the welcome they received were thankfully very different. The Russian explorer and esteemed anthropologist's ancestor and namesake Nickolay Miklouho-Maclay receives a warm embrace from a local man after making the pilgrimage to the island his rela-

Maclay Junior being welcomed at Gorendu Village Sep 2017


defended their rights to independently own their land and maintain their traditions. His findings and the courage of his expedition also impressed literary figures such as Leo Tolstoy, who wrote in a letter to Maclay: ‘You were the first to demonstrate beyond question by your experience that man is man everywhere, that is, a kind, sociable being with whom communication can and should be established through Tolstoy added: ‘I do not know what contribution your collections and discoveries will make to the science for which you serve, but your experience of contacting the primitive peoples will make an epoch in the science for which I serve i.e. the science which teaches how human beings should live with one another.’

south-east New Guinea, while Germany annexed the northern part of the country. Some 80 per cent of PNG's people live in rural areas. To this day, the Russian humanist is remembered on the Rai Coast. Stories of him are passed down through the generations and children are named after Maclay to Members of the 2017 expedition conducted interviews in the villages where practically everything that Maclay had written in his diaries in the late 19th century was still evident 'This is the only place on our planet where the first meeting was recorded and the life of people not using iron, as we say people living in the "Stone Age", was described in details. 'Uniqueness of this place is also in the fact, that the same villages remain in which Asek is the clan leader of the descendants of those who live saw this first white man - Maclay.

During the 2017 visit, Nickolay junior and his expedition team stayed in the village where Maclay’s great friend Tui lived and where his descendants now also live. They slept in a new hut built of traditional materials and furnished with coconut frond matting and mattresses, the same living conditions as the local people. Nickolay Junior found stories of his great-great-grandfather are still passed down through the generations and even children are named after Maclay to preserve his memory.

'There have been almost no changes in near 150 years in these The expedition found practically everything that Maclay had written villages, and this is the uniqueness of this place.' in his diaries was still evident in the village and stories of the life of Maclay’s life later became linked with Australia, when on 18 July the tribe are still passed on orally, despite literacy improving after 1878, he arrived in Sydney and fell in love with Margaret Robertthe arrival of missionaries. son Clark, the daughter of the Prime Minister of New South Wales, 'It was an important event for me to meet with the descendants of Sir John Robertson. those who knew my great-great-grandfather, I did not expect it to Despite his Orthodox faith, he was granted permission by Russia be so ceremonial,' said Nickolay. to marry in a Catholic ceremony - a condition set by Margaret’s 'I made two important revelations: I underfather - in 1884. stood that Maclay was actually a great man Australia became Maclay’s second motherland only after I had been on the Maclay Coast and he founded the first biological station in and had seen the attitude of the descenthe country, in Watson's Bay, which was a dants of local residents to his person. powerful focus for the study of the marine flora 'The second: people in Papua were excepand fauna. tionally sincere and benevolent to those Margaret and their two sons, Vladimir and who come to them with both open heart and Aleksandr, returned to Sydney from their no falsity. home in St. Petersburg after his death in 1888 'As far as I am concerned, New Guinea has and now his name and ancestry live on in been always in my heart, and probably my Russia, Australia and, of course, Papua New Tui -Maclay’s Friend alongside Asek the life will be connected with this region forGuinea. direct decendant of Tui ever.' The visit of Maclay Junior visit to Gorendu Nickolay plans to return to his ancestor’s research ground in Auwas covered by direct telecast, radio and printed media throughout gust 2018, by which time he hopes to have raised funds to purRussia and many parts of Europe. chase medicines for the locals and build a The visit was enhanced by the visit of the Founding Prime Minisnew school. terr of Papua New Guinea, the Right Hon, Grand Chief, Sir MiHe wishes to do chael Somare who was welcomed by the people of Rai Coast and 'everything it takes' took part in the live telecast of the event.. A further visit by Maclay to preserve the Junior and the Maclay Coast and Maclay Foundaraise its profile as a tion is expected in site worthy of world heritage status. August 2018 prior to the APEC conDespite Maclay's schedwish to prevent colo- ference nisation of New uled in November Guinea, in 1884 Brit- in Port Moresby. ain established a protectorate over


Many thousands of people welcomed Maclay Junior on his historic visit to Rai Coast in 2017

Maclay pictured beside his Great Grandson and namesake Nicholay Miklouho-Maclay

Nicholay Miklouho-Maclay meeting Grand Chief Sir Michael Somare at Gorendu Village.

Kalibobo Spirit moored at Port Constantine outside Gorendu Village which was used to transport Nicholay Jr & Sir Michael Somare to Gorendu Village in Sep 2017

Grand Chief Sir Michael Somare welcomed to Gorendu The visit of Maclay Junior was arranged by MTS and the Melansian Foundation. In Madang they were given FOC accommodation at the Madang Resort and travel aboard the Kalibobo Spirit between Madang and Gorendu. Apart from their visit to Rai Coast, they presented sketches of art collected by Maclay in 1871 and lectured at the Divine Word University in Madang, the University of PNG and the National Museum before their departure to Australia and back to Russia. The Melanesian Foundation is a non-profit organisation that is operated by MTS for the purpose of improving the lives of people in rural areas. The MTS Foundation supports the Maclay Foundation in educating the people about the Nicholay Mikloucho-Maclay.

Newsletter no 8 mar 2018  

IN THIS ISSUE OF MELANESIAN NEWS pg 1 Beautiful Madang | International Meetings to take place at the Madang Resort 2018 pg 2 Coral Expeditio...

Newsletter no 8 mar 2018  

IN THIS ISSUE OF MELANESIAN NEWS pg 1 Beautiful Madang | International Meetings to take place at the Madang Resort 2018 pg 2 Coral Expeditio...