“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” ―Henry Miller
Secret Hideaways Santorini and the Nectar of Gods.
Grapes And Flavours
The queen of the “Koeppchen”: Alice Hartmann.
Mikael Jönsson’s rise to the top.
Dreams come true for tree lovers in Sweden.
Verona Arena Festival from the sand to the stars.
Europe, Germany / 1750
xcellence xcellence, Luxaviation and FairJets inflight magazine Publisher: Luxaviation/FairJets Address: Luxaviation Group 4A, rue Borschette L-1246 Luxembourg Phone: +352 42 52 52-1 Fax: +352 42 71 40 E-mail: email@example.com Web: www.luxaviation.lu Editor in chief: Patrick Hansen (Luxaviation CEO) Editorial: Christina Heidt, Salomé Jeko, Rob Kieffer, Magali Migaud, Patrick Bartz, Andrew Fitzsimons, Geoff Thompson. Coordination: Filippa Tiago (firstname.lastname@example.org) Photo credits: p. 10: David Laurent / WILI. p. 13, 19, 40-45: © Blitz Agency. p. 14: Valérie Conrot by Eric Chenal. p. 16: 2013 © 1000 Miglia srl. All rights reserved, French Tennis Open © FFT. p. 17: 2P gallery, Tang Kwok Hin, “Tribute to Thomas Struth”, 2010, photograph, courtesy the gallery and the artist. Anish Kapoor: “White Sand, Red Millet, Many Flowers”, 1982, Collection Arts Council, South Bank Centre, London © Anish Kapoor / VG Bildkunst, Bonn, 2013. Anish Kapoor: Untitled, 1990, photo: J Fernandes and S Drake, © Anish Kapoor / VG Bildkunst, Bonn, 2013. p. 20: © iStockphoto. p. 21: © Paquin // Photocuisine, © Thys/Spperdelux // Photocuisine, © Blitz Agency. p. 22-23: Getty Images. p. 24: Luc Benevello. p. 25, 28, 29: Jean-Baptiste Buffetaud. p. 26-27: courtesy of Symbolic & Chase. p. 30-31: iStockphoto. p. 32-33: “Table”, Tsitouras Collection Hotel, courtesy of Aqua Vista hotels. “Oia village”, Getty Images. Georges Gavalas’ portraits and vines, courtesy of Gavalas Wineries. “Pari Taverna, Megalachori”, Getty Images. p. 34: Tsitouras Collection Hotel, courtesy of Aqua Vista hotels. p. 35: Getty Images. p. 36: courtesy of Mystique, Luxury Collection Hotel. Small photo: Tsitouras Collection Hotel, courtesy of Aqua Vista hotels. p. 37: top photo, Tsitouras Collection Hotel, courtesy of Aqua Vista hotels and Christos Drazos Professional Photography. Other hotels’ photos, courtesy of Vedema and Mystique, Luxury Collection Hotel.
p. 38: Getty Images. p. 39: upper left photo, courtesy of Mystique, Luxury Collection Hotel. Photos on the right: iStockphoto. p. 46-50: courtesy of Hedone Restaurant. p. 50: small picture, iStockphoto. p. 52-56: summer images are from Peter Lundstrom, WDO – www.treehotel.se. Winter images are from Fredrik Broman, Human Spectra - www.treehotel.se p. 58-61: courtesy of Fondazione Arena di Verona. p. 62-63: courtesy of Luxaviation Group. p. 64: © Cédric Evrard. Translation/Proofreading: David Swain, Benoit Deeg, Nelly Pairon. Conception/Design: binsfeld corporate publishing 14, place du Parc, B.P. 2773, L–1027 Luxembourg Phone: +352 49 68 68–1 Fax: +352 48 87 70 www.binsfeldcorporate.lu Art Director: Miriam Rosner (email@example.com) Advertising: binsfeld Aurélie Exposta firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: +352 49 68 68–1 Fax: +352 48 87 70 Printing: Bastian Druck GmbH, Germany © 2013 Luxaviation/FairJets xcellence Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited without written permission from Luxaviation Group and binsfeld. Opinions expressed in xcellence are not necessarily those of Luxaviation Group and binsfeld. ISSN 2306-4056
Map of United Kingdom, France / 1819
Dear passenger, We are delighted to present the 3rd issue of xcellence, your inflight magazine for almost a year now. Similarly to previous issues, our team of writers has scoured Europe in search of unusual characters, so as to allow you to share their passions and their know-how.
n this latest issue, we have chosen to tell you about a pearl of the Cyclades: the island of Santorini. This volcanic island and its sheer cliffs offer one of the most captivating spectacles in the Mediterranean. There, we meet Georges Gavalas, who reveals to us the secret of the “Nectar of the Gods”...
We finish this tour of Europe in Verona, at its festival dedicated to the love of opera.
Then we head to West London, where Mikael Jönsson welcomes us to his restaurant Hedone. There are a couple of reasons why Jönsson, just awarded a star in the Michelin Guide 2013, is not your average chef: he is a long-time sufferer of severe food allergies and he only dedicated himself to his passion late in life after a law career in Sweden. Our journey continues deep into the Swedish forest, where you can fulfil a childhood dream by sleeping in a cabin perched in a tree! We will also take you to the heart of Luxembourg’s Moselle, where Alice Hartmann’s winery supplies Riesling for the finest tables in Europe. For several decades, the vineyard has owned the majority of Koeppchen vines, one of Moselle’s most prestigious terroirs.
Finally, you have the opportunity to meet Robert Fisch, Head of Crew Training and our Sales Team, available around the clock 24/7 to take care of every little detail and make your journey unforgettable.
In relation to jewellery, our expert Anaïs Barthe presents a new selection of exceptional pieces, comprising period jewellery and contemporary creations.
Have a great flight into uncharted territory – we’ll meet again in September!
Contributors Magali Migaud page 24
Salomé Jeko pages 12 & 59 Salomé was a journalist before she joined the editorial team at binsfeld. She is keen on discovering other countries and especially other cuisines, saying that “to love a land, you must eat it, drink it and hear it singing”.
Christina Heidt pages 11 & 40 Christina is fascinated by people and their stories, and she tells them with a passion; both as editor of the binsfeld agency in Luxembourg and as a radio and television journalist in Germany.
Magali, AKA Capitaine Les Mots (“Captain Words”), is a freelance journalist. From her base in Paris, she pursues her passions for cinema, history and good restaurants, and is always on the lookout to meet interesting people.
Patrick is a freelance TV journalist, based in Luxembourg. He is very much a specialist in Africa and Asia, and is just as interested in the arts as in geopolitics. He also enjoys off-road motorcycling and eating good food.
Geoff came to Luxembourg from Dublin 23 years ago. When he’s not writing for his online newspaper or client projects, he’s either organising events, off fishing, watching rugby or spending quality time with his family.
Andrew is a UK-based photojournalist and communications consultant, who is arguably best known for working with business entrepreneur and TV pundit James Caan. He is an avid football fan and writer.
Rob Kieffer page 18 Rob Kieffer, born in 1957, is editor in chief of binsfeld. He regularly contributes text and photo articles to international newspapers and magazines like Die Zeit or the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung.
CANCELS & REPLACES XCELLENCE LUXEMBOURG 165x220 A-PARIS1 LUXEMBOURG - Issue Date: 19 MAY
XCELLENCE 165x220 A-PARIS1 LUX_A 16/04/13 12:42 Page1
C H I C O N T H E B R I D G E - PA R I S Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores a n d a t l o u i s v u i t t o n . c o m . Tél. 226 326 29
Map of Sweden & Norway, France / 1819
Ready for Take-off
Grapes & Flavours
Alice’s Men, the Alice
Hartmann vineyard, Luxembourg
12 People & Business
Jönsson’s heavenly hideaway, Hedone,
Hits & Highlights
Stopovers A childhood dream
come true, Treehotel, Sweden
Don’t Miss Highlights around the world
58 Art Treats
Arena di Verona, centenary
Our Team Robert Fisch, Director of Crew Training at
Our Fleet Embraer Legacy 600
Anaïs Barthe, your
In the Next Issue
30 Secret Hideaways Vinsanto and the deep blue sea, Santorini
To m K端 ns ch
Vi nc en t Be lv a
Luxaviation Sales Team
BY christina he idt
Ready for Take-off
There’s no such thing as impossible The Luxaviation Sales Team is the contact partner for flight reservations and all client requests – no matter how outlandish.
star chef from Naples who prepares his specialities in Moscow and brings the fresh fish with him? Around the world in 40 days with stops at the most beautiful islands (the Galápagos, Fiji, Easter Island, Cuba, Madagascar)? No problem. Tom Künsch, Vincent Belva and Tom Hienckes are there for clients at Luxaviation, and they’re masters of organisation. “We are available for enquiries 24 hours per day, seven days a week, working in shifts,” explains Tom Künsch who, at 31, is the oldest member of this dynamic team. “What makes our work a lot easier are the efficient structures and organisational processes at Luxaviation. They make our reaction times very short: If something has to happen quickly, we can ideally go from request to take-off in just over an hour.” Flights for top footballers, internationally-renowned actors, music tours, business trips and family holidays. It is the sales team’s job to check availability, negotiate prices and field and clarify special requests in contact with clients or agents. Nothing is too eccentric for the three men: “Our goal is the perfect flight with tailored service. That’s why we try to do everything we can,” says Vincent Belva. The 27-year-old has been working at Luxaviation for three years. Most requests currently come from Russia. The ski areas in the French and Swiss Alps are sought-after winter travel destinations. During the summer the flights are toward Cannes, Nice, Malaga or the Maldives: “We don’t just organise the flight, but also make sure that there is a helicopter or limo waiting directly at the airport to take the client to the hotel. Or we ensure that a meal from their favourite restaurant is served on board,” explains Tom Hienckes; just like his team colleagues, the 24-year-old is crazy about flying.
With a map of the world in front of them and an eye on the FairJets and Luxaviation’s 12 aircraft available for charter, the job never gets boring for the young men. Every day brings something new and unknown – challenges that need to be solved. Only teamwork makes it possible. “The chemistry between us works, even if we’re all different,” say all three, while Tom Künsch adds, “Trust and respect for the work of others is an underlying requirement at a company like Luxaviation. We know, for example, that our crews will do everything to make the client’s request a reality – we also share in the excitement, our work is not finished when the contract is signed.” If the three young men could fulfil one of their own dreams, it would be to take a Luxaviation jet to Tokyo, Cuba or St. Maarten in the Caribbean. “The runway there is in the middle of the sea; it’s incredibly beautiful,” explains Tom Hienckes. He can be sure of one thing – his colleagues would be with him 100%.
BY S alom é Jeko
People & Business
“There’s a scientific revolution going on.” Created in 2010, MyScienceWork is a scientific social network with a wealth of professional publications in its online library. As we heard from Virginie Simon, cofounder of mysciencework.com aged just thirty, it is an innovative platform that is near indispensable for all good researchers. How did the idea of creating mysciencework.com come to you just after you finished your studies? While writing my thesis, I realised that I was spending more time looking for information than processing it. I was also faced with problems accessing knowledge, as subscriptions to research publications are far too expensive. Anyway, I found all this both difficult and time-consuming, especially when you think about the performance of new technologies and of web 2.0. So, after I submitted my thesis in December 2009, I decided to create MyScienceWork with Tristan Davaille, a friend whose studies had coincided with mine. We formed a partnership and set up what I could only have dreamed of during my own thesis: a multidisciplinary sharing platform; a social network that could be compared to LinkedIn for scientists. What exactly is there on MyScienceWork? MyScienceWork is a site dedicated to sharing and disseminating information aimed at scientists. Thirty-one disciplines are currently represented: mathematics, chemistry and physics, but also literature and philosophy. Researchers can post their CVs and publications. We have 12 million scientific articles online right now and some 600,000 theses. Each of them can use our innovative search engine to access them. All that allows researchers to interact, work together, announce the date of future conferences or simply to recruit. The site really enables people within our community to communicate better and to get their names out there. That is the key thing when you think about researchers’ main goals: publishing and being cited. MyScienceWork also offers popular science articles, so could the site be of interest to the general public? Yes, we have a scientific journalism area where the general public can read current affairs, research or opinion articles, as well as being able to find descriptions of researchers and videos. For example, we have launched
a series of articles on women’s place in science, and we have published a web series on PhD evaluation called Knock Knock Doc, with a quirky and humorous tone that works extremely well. There are loads of subjects to tackle and young scientists are very active online anyway: they want to make themselves known, whether using professional social networks, blogs or Twitter. The idea is to break with this idea of the scientist shut away in the library buried under a pile of books; we’re fed up with that cliché. What are your ambitions for the future? I know there’s a scientific revolution going on. Open access is becoming indispensable, with even Barrack Obama making some statements along those lines. Research work is evolving and MyScienceWork expects to be actively involved in that process. We currently have a direct “competitor” based in the US with 2.6 million registered users: that proves that there’s a real need. Although our platform was created in France and Luxembourg, MyScienceWork wants to go international from 2014. For the moment, our site interface is available in English, French, Portuguese and Spanish and we have scientific articles written in 39 different languages. But that’s just the beginning. www.mysciencework.com
Virginie Simon, cofounder of MyScienceWork.
Education and career Before graduating in engineering from the Compiègne University of Technology (UTC) in 2006, Virginie did a first work placement for a major pharmaceutical group, before moving to a start-up specialising in anti-cancer nanotechnologies for her final work placement. In 2009 she obtained her PhD at Pierre-and-Marie-Curie University (UPMC), specialising in “Complexity of Life”. She also obtained a bachelor’s in philosophy via a correspondence course from Nanterre University. In 2010, she founded MyScienceWork.
14 Hits & Highlights
Valérie Conrot denicheuse.com
At denicheuse.com, my online shop, you will find a very personal selection of objects – unusual, beautiful, practical or a bit offbeat, designed to make life a little more cheerful, more sparkling and more colourful: things that will make you smile. Have a look at a very small selection of my BEST OF denicheuse.com
Valérie Conrot Treasure hunter at denicheuse.com
01 BLURBS COAT RACK Designed by Bettina Nissen Use these coat hooks to organise your life... with comic-book speech bubbles. Simply leave a message on these quirky coat hooks with any dry-wipe pen. 02 TAKE TIME Designed by Mathieu Lehanneur Unusual and timeless, Take Time! by Mathieu Lehanneur is the reinvention of a classic for the digital age, to create a new, contemporary, unisex, watertight and compact standard setter.
nd the world
It’s the treasure hunter’s passion to track down a thousand and one little things that take us beyond the everyday, or transform the everyday into something more beautiful. These are treasures that I have gathered in the course of an incessant search for the kinds of objects that I love. And I want to share them with you.
the light, the definitive refuge in
which to enjoy the outdoors.
Designed by Hafriko,
Designed by Mathieu Lehanneur
“Strates” is a highly innovative
The storage unit known as
unit, combining desk and stor-
This original lamp is a replica of
“Chuck” is a flexible wall system,
age. The integrated shelves and
a reflex camera lens. Carefully
made of 4 mm thick wooden
table tops offer intuitive and
Maison Guéneau Mauger
handmade with high-quality
boards and two stainless steel
convenient ergonomics, and the
bands. It is a combination of
smart interlocking design makes
This duvet with arms is simply a
standard, the lens hood can be
flexibility, stability and gravity.
it very easy to assemble.
great idea. It makes me feel really
reverse mounted or removed.
The result is a unique, adaptable
cosy and makes me smile. Love it!
Photo by Joëlle Dollé
Mónoculo Design Studio
way of clearing away the small but important things in life.
Photo by Leopold Fiala
Designed by Patricia Urquiola “Cottage” is a charming spot, a place in which to relax in comfort, meditate, rest or simply pass the time in the company of a good book, enjoying the air and
materials and finished to a high
16 Don’t Miss
Don’t Miss! Rafael Nadal and Novak Djokovic at the French Open final 2012.
21st May - 9th June 2013 PARIS French Open
16th - 19th May 2013 BRESCIA (ITALY) Mille Miglia 2013, Brescia-Rome The irresistible charm that made Mille Miglia the “most beautiful race in the world” – formerly as a speed race and, more recently, as an endurance race – has thousands of dedicated fans who hope one day to be able to take part in this long circuit through Italy. Only 375 vehicles are allowed to take part in the Mille Miglia, selected exclusively from the models that took part in at least one of the original Mille Miglia (from 1927 to 1957) and driven by crews from all over the world. It starts in Brescia, the beating heart of the Mille Miglia, on the Thursday night, in order to get to Rome by the next day. The participants leave Rome the following Saturday morning, arriving in Brescia by nighttime. The Sunday is dedicated to the prize ceremony and celebrations. www.1000miglia.eu
Along with the Australian Open, Wimbledon and the US Open, this event at Rolland Garros, Paris, is one of the four historic tennis tournaments that make up the legendary Grand Slam. Rafael Nadal is the most recent player to have won all four Majors, the Majorcan winning the last remaining title to elude him at the 2010 US Open. A year earlier, his main rival on the circuit, Roger Federer, had also rounded off his Grand Slam collection with victory at Roland Garros, ten years after Andre Agassi first achieved the same feat in Paris. www.rolandgarros.com 23rd - 26th May 2013 HONG KONG Art Basel The first time it is being held, Art Basel will showcase 245 of the world’s leading galleries across four areas (Galleries, Insights, Discoveries and Encounters) at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). Asia and the Asia-Pacific region are home to 50% of the
For his first major exhibition in Berlin, Anish Kapoor will use the whole ground floor of the Martin-Gropius-Bau, including its magnificent atrium. Some of the works will have been specially designed for this venue.
01 / Anish Kapoor: Untitled, 1990. 02 / Anish Kapoor: White Sand, Red Millet, Many Flowers, 1982. 01
03 / Art Basel Hong Kong. How to get there LUXAVIATION FLIES TO BRESCIA The Brescia Montichiari Airport is located 20 km (12.4 mi.) from Brescia city centre. PARIS Paris – Le Bourget Airport is located 11 km (6.9 mi.) north-northeast of Paris. HONG KONG Hong Kong International Airport. BERLIN Tegel Airport is located 8 km (5 mi.) northwest of Berlin. Schönefeld Airport is located 18 km (11 mi.) southeast of the city centre.
exhibitors’ spaces, underscoring Art Basel’s commitment to the region. While the main sector, “Galleries”, will exhibit works from leading established galleries from across the world, “Insights” is dedicated to exhibiting distinctive contextual and thematic installations by many important artists of the Asian art scene. The “Discoveries” sector will provide a platform for younger galleries and “Encounters” will display large-scale sculptural installations by leading artists from around the world. www.artbasel.com 13th - 16th June 2013 ARDMORE (US) US Open Golf Tournament The US Open is one of the four major championships of men’s professional golf. After 32 years, the prestigious tournament is returning to the famed Merion Golf Club, right outside the town of Ardmore, Pennsylvania, from 13th to 16th June. Merion has hosted the US Open four times in its rich history, and is widely considered one of golf’s iconic courses. www.meriongolfclub.com
18th May - 24th November 2013 BERLIN Anish Kapoor Anish Kapoor is one of the world’s most important contemporary artists. Since his first sculptures – simple shapes in paint pigments, spread out on the floor – Kapoor has developed a multi-faceted œuvre using various materials, such as stone, steel, glass, wax, PVC skins and high-tech materials. His objects, sculptures and installations blur the boundaries between painting and sculpture. For his first major exhibition in Berlin, he will use the whole ground floor of the Martin-Gropius-Bau, including its magnificent atrium. Some of the works will have been specially designed for this venue. The show, comprising about 70 installations, will provide an overview of the abstract poetic work of this Turner Prize winner, from 1982 to the present. www.berlinerfestspiele.de
BY ROB KIEFFE R
A connoisseur Robert Fisch was practically born into his fascination for flying. The Director of Crew Training at Luxaviation, however, not only enjoys the world above the clouds, but also breathtaking travel and Mediterranean cuisine… which may have something to do with his Italian ancestry.
f you ask Luxembourger Robert Fisch when he discovered his passion for flying, he smiles and answers, “When I was about six weeks old.” That was when his parents asked the doctor to grant a special permission to take their newborn onto a plane. The flight was to Venice, his mother’s hometown. Her Luxembourgian husband had met her while he was in Italy for a spa visit. The 40-year-old Director of Crew Training and Captain, who has been at Luxaviation for two years, had only one thing on his mind from his earliest years: “Flying, always flying.” He passed his private pilot’s license at the Aero-Club in Strasbourg while studying law. For a short period following the death of his father he took over the family insurance agency. “I couldn’t imagine spending my entire life behind a desk,” says Robert. Since job prospects for pilots were not that good in Europe at the time, he moved to the United States, where he earned his professional licence.
in every way
Robert Fisch on board his Piper Super Cub built in 1957. He regularly takes it to the The Flying Legends Airshow in Duxford, north of London.
20 Our Team
Robert Fisch flew National Geographic photographers and cameramen to Ushuaia, one of the southernmost cities on Earth.
A bear on the plane
America, Central America and South America as well as the Caribbean. “The most interesting flights were those for the National Geographic Based on the West Coast, including in Oakland Society,” he explains. “Among other destinaand Seattle, he primarily transported mail and tions, I flew their photographers and cameramen freight. Then the flights led to Alaska, to places to Ushuaia, one of the southernmost cities on like Anchorage and Fairbanks. “Breathtaking landscapes,” he remembers. “The ice-blue glaciers, Earth, and to Easter Island, 3,500 kilometres from wild sounds – as fjords are called in northwestern the Chilean coast.” America – and thick pine forests looked even Ambulance flights during disasters more grandiose from above.” In Alaska the pilots always had to expect surprising encounters with the animal kingdom. Once, Robert was to transport a load of fresh squid, highly-sought after in Japan, to the transit station in Seattle. However, while the crew was still drinking its pre-flight coffee, a young bear, enticed by the fishy smell, made its way up the ramp and through the half-open loading bay into the cargo hold. It took hours for the summoned rangers to draw the uninvited guest out of the plane again. The transport flight, timed down to the minute, was severely delayed and the end clients in the Japanese sushi-processing industry were anything other than amused. After Robert Fisch had completed his Captain training on Learjets, he moved to a private business flight company in Atlanta, Georgia. For three years the job took him all over North
When his mother fell ill, Robert Fisch returned home to Luxembourg, where he worked for Luxembourg Air Rescue, for example making ambulance flights following the 2002 earthquake in Bam, Iran and after the 2004 Southeast Asian tsunami. His career then took him to Vienna, where he was management assistant and Chief Pilot for an Austrian business airline. Austria was also where he met his wife, with whom he returned to Luxembourg and welcomed a daughter just over a year ago. At Luxaviation in Luxembourg, Robert is not only responsible for the training and continuing training of crew members, but also for many areas of safety and for the certification of new additions to the aircraft fleet. In order to keep in touch with the world above the clouds, he still regularly flies as Vice-Chief Pilot
01 / Sole fillet with Sevruga caviar and squid ink risotto.
02 / Fritto misto. 02
03 / Robert Fisch and his family at home.
between Venice and Padua to visit cousins, uncles in a Bombardier Challenger 300 or Cessna Citation XLS. “It’s the best office that I can imagine,” and aunts. he says of the cockpit. “My favourite meal is pasta in all of its variations,” admits Robert. Between two flights, he Even in his limited leisure time, Robert Fisch puts on the apron himself to cook, just like in a remains devoted to flying, both as a flight typical trattoria. Homemade lasagne, either instructor at Luxembourg’s Club Aviasport and vegetarian or with fish, is one of his specialities. as the co-owner of a classic aeroplane. He and For these trips to see his family and the tables two friends who are equally-devoted to flying of Venice, to fritto misto (deep-fried seafood), purchased the venerable but still robust Piper risotto nero (risotto with calamari) or fegato all Super Cub nine years ago and have since whipped it back into shape. The two-seater, built veneziana (Venetian-style calf’s liver), he sometime invites his wife to accompany him in his old in 1957, was used for reconnaissance flights by Piper. Landing takes place on one of the most the French Army in the war in Algeria. It was then used by a Belgian gliding club as a towplane incredible runways imaginable. The aeroplane sets down on a one kilometre-long strip on the Venebefore being acquired by the trio from Luxemtian Lido, in the heart of the lagoon. From here, bourg. “We regularly take our old Piper to the St Mark’s Square and the Rialto bridge are only big classic aeroplane meeting in Duxford, north accessible over the water using public vaporetti of London,” says Robert Fisch. “The Flying or boat taxis… Robert Fisch even enjoys this Legends Airshow takes place every July on the beautiful crossing to the full. premises of the Imperial War Museum Duxford which, with 143 historic planes, is one of the world’s largest flight museums.” Cooking like in a Venetian trattoria The fact that Robert Fisch enjoys not only flying, but Mediterranean cuisine with fresh herbs and olive oil as well, can be traced back to his Italian mother. He often returns to her ancestral home
22 Our Team
Padua, a weak spot for Robert Fisch has not cities in Italy, one of the oldest o live has relatives wh least because he the Centro eval arcades of there: “The medi dry even at your feet stay storico ensure th eur of g.” As a connoiss when it’s rainin stronomic Robert has two ga Italian cuisine, Padua in mind. destinations in down-toVia Postumi is a Granchio blu on th a lot sh restaurant wi earth, simple fi r the blue It is named afte of local colour. ood ed in tasty seaf crab, which is us om the few kilometres fr specialities. A ntro at in Selvazzano Ce centre of Padua, stands the Euganean Hills, the foot of the Padova. nded Hotel Piroga Michelin-recomme autiful surrounded by be Its restaurant, al th typical region nature, offers bo ss ne t dishes for busi cuisine and ligh dinners.
Daily market, Padua.
BY M agali M igaud
Anaïs Barthe, your personal shopper
Anaïs Barthe, who teaches at the National Gemology Institute (ING) in Paris and is an expert in vintage jewellery, presents a distinctive selection of French pieces, comprising period jewellery and four new creations. Anaïs has scoured the best-kept secrets of the creative spirit in Paris. She invites us on a journey of discovery towards feminine beauty through a sheen of colour and sparkle. Paris will always be Paris!
t the end of the 19th century, the most prestigious fine jewellery houses established themselves around Place Vendôme in Paris. Boucheron, Chaumet, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, René Boivin and Mauboussin set themselves up around this square near the brand-new Opéra Garnier, laying the foundations for a world temple to jewellery whose influence is still felt today. Numerous designers, creators and craftsmen took over the most beautiful private houses around the square. They were then joined by the major haute couture houses, in a Paris wholly dedicated to luxury and beauty. The jewellery presented on these pages is part of that tradition.
Selling a piece of jewellery is retelling a story... Cartier solitaire on platinum Solitaire signed Cartier in white gold set with a round brilliant-cut 3.07 carat E/VVS1 diamond (certified by the French Laboratory of Gemology). Price: â‚Ź 75,000
Cartier ruby ring Ring signed Cartier in white gold set with an unheated Burmese 5.498 carat ruby supported by pear diamonds (certified by the SSEF laboratory). Price: â‚Ź 55,000
26 Our Partners
The Snake An impressive gem-set enamel necklace with vinaigrette Designed as a highly articulated yellow gold serpent, applied with a black and white enamel motif to the exterior and with pale green enamel scale motif to the under belly, the head accented with a pearl, embellished with a ruby eye, the mouth opening to reveal a gold vinaigrette compartment, circa 1840, Swiss made. Length 65.5 cm, apertures 1/3 and 2/3 down the length of the body to enable to necklace to be worn in two different ways, also an aperture to be worn around the wrist with the head in the hand when using the vinaigrette. Price: â‚Ź 229,000
The Nubian Head Cartier gem-set diamond blackamoor brooch Designed as a carved onyx female bust, the hairline embellished with carved emeralds accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, the ear suspending a pendent pear-shaped diamond earring, the neckline set with a line of brilliant-cut stones suspending coral beads, signed Cartier Paris, numbered 018594, circa 1950, French assay marks for platinum and 18 carat gold, maker’s mark for Cartier. Price: € 52,000
The Panther Bangle Leopard Emerald Diamond Bangle 1970 circa by J. Bondt The fluted bangle, with hinged terminals each designed as a leopard’s head, pavé-set with yellow brilliant-cut diamonds, accented with onyx cabochons, the eyes embellished with marquiseshaped emeralds, to a collar of graduated circularcut emeralds, circa 1970, French maker’s mark for J. Bondt and assay marks for 18 carat gold. Price: € 138,000
If you are interested in any of these pieces, please contact Anaïs Barthe: email@example.com
28 Our Partners
Designers who work with Anaïs
naïs regularly goes in search of Parisian designers, always on the hunt for pieces of jewellery that are exceptional, unique or simply spellbinding. She has presented us with four typical examples, which are meticulously designed and result from an entire process that indulges in the luxury of taking its time. From the initial idea to the finished piece, these designers stay focused on the beauty of the women who will wear this jewellery, because that is what it is all about. These works of art are born out of the hands of Parisian artisan jewellers, who are just as interested in contemporary creations as in vintage precious stones and jewellery. Anaïs invites us to discover these pieces at an exhibition called “Reflets” (Reflections), which will take place at the Palais de Tokyo (Paris) from 29 May to 4 June 2013.
If any of these creations has charmed you, please contact Anaïs Barthe: firstname.lastname@example.org
Articulated amethyst necklace This necklace started out as a 1920s platinum and diamond pin, which was entrusted to the care of a talented designer who gave it a new life. One by one, he remounted the elements on an articulated platinum thread in the shape of a knife blade. He then designed a bezel into which to set the large 15 carat amethyst, making it even more beautiful. He then managed to unearth a smaller 2 carat stone to accentuate the harmony of its crafting. Finally, he decided to mount the whole thing on a grey gold choker, which goes well with the platinum of the stem. Price: € 17,500
The flower ring This ring is not a reworking of an old gem, but an order given to its creator for a woman’s 40th birthday. According to him, “40 is the age at which a women’s beauty is most dazzling”. He therefore set about looking for a gem that was out of the ordinary, ending his search with a 3.65 carat violet sapphire. Although they are best known for being blue, sapphires are one of the four precious stones that can be any colour on the light spectrum. What also makes this piece of jewellery stand out is the care taken with the body of the ring and the minute detail of the finishes. The white gold flower stem delicately encircles the finger and the petals, polished here diamond-set there, spread out one-by-one around the heart of the ring, where they are coiled around the stone. Price: € 29,480
The bracelet ring A pure design, this completely rounded ring also manages the feat of marrying a piece of quartz and a diamond. To make this union as clean and discreet as possible, and so that the technical details remain manufacturing secrets, the bezel has been designed to be conical. The result is that an optical illusion causes it to disappear into the crystallisation of the quartz bracelet, thereby showing off all the sparkle of a brilliant-cut 2.5 carat diamond, which is close set in platinum on a mounting of the same metal. Price: € 43,500
The mirror ring This ring is simultaneously a very contemporary design and the reworking of an old diamond whose sublime composition means that refraction can cause it to reflect light in a very beautiful pink. Old-cut, 1 carat diamond mounted on mirror-polished white gold (polished until it obtains a mirror effect), it has been dressed with a piece of quartz protected by two rows of diamonds, themselves set into tank ring-style fins directly inspired by the 1940s. Price: € 35,000
BY PATRICK BAR TZ
Vinsanto and the deep blue sea
George Gavalas is the man! His distant forefathers developed part of the rich tradition of winemaking on Santorini and his family use the same age-old practices, bringing a relic of the ancient world into the modern day... and this on an island whose history seeps from its pores. Santorini, the southernmost of the Cyclades, is a unique creation of nature. Inhabited since 5000Â BC, it used to be a perfectly circular island in the Mediterranean... until most of it sank beneath the waves some 3,500 years later.
Before tourism, Santorini was a world of pirates, Venetian traders and occupying Ottomans... Nowadays, as you let your gaze wander westwards over the crests of the islands, and then northwards over the shimmering sea below the village of Oia and the graceful silhouette of a threemaster threading her way through the caldera, it is hard to imagine a more otherworldly sunset.
Sa nt or in i/ Gr ee ce
32 Secret Hideaways
Oia at dusk.
Oia invites you for a stroll with its picturesque and traditional fish tavernas and art galleries.
01 / George Gavalas,
03 / George Gavalas
owner of Gavalas winery and third-generation winemaker.
at the winepress.
02 / Pani Taverna, Megalachori.
04 / Vines are pruned into a cylindrical shape: the kouluras.
owadays, to even the most seasoned traveller, the first glimpse of Santorini is nothing short of breathtaking. The often tiny, snow-white settlements stretching atop the ochre, cream and black layered-lava cliffs, are reminiscent of the icing on a cake. Santorini offers its visitors one of the world’s most exceptional vistas: the caldera, a great cauldron of blue seawater, held in the rocky 04 03 embrace of the arms of the Santorini archipelago, comprising the islands of New and Old Kameni, the volcanic soil of the barren lands. The near Aspronissi and Thirassia. total lack of rainfall and the strong winds had not managed to kill them off. The new residents Back in 1600 BC, the eruption of Thira changed the history of the island and of the Mediterranean doggedly nurtured them in what can easily be as a whole. This massive, unprecedented explosion described as one of the harshest grape-growing submerged the heart of the island. Such a natural environments in the world. In spite of that, disaster must have been completely incomprehen- Santorini nowadays boasts one of the longest continuous histories of grape cultivation anysible to the Minoan society that had settled on where. the shores of the island centuries earlier, finding shelter in the shadow of Thira. The survivors fled This is where the Gavalas family step in. Inland, for their lives, never to return. While rocks and in the village of Megalohori, is George Gavalas’ ash rained down and blotted out the sunlight winery. The vineyards alongside the road meanacross the whole Aegean, tidal waves hit neighbouring islands and created havoc in places as far dering uphill are quite unlike any those elsewhere in the world. To begin with, they look nothing away as Sicily and Egypt. Within a few decades like vineyards: unknowing tourists might be of this blow, the entire Minoan civilisation was forgiven for mistaking them for abandoned lots wiped out. The sea had torn the heart out of covered by fairly indistinct plant life. the island, leaving nothing more than a jagged crescent. The apocalyptic geological event of the Santorinian viticulture appears chaotic, with the Thira eruption is starkly reminiscent of one of grapevines growing directly on the arid volcanic the mysteries of the ancient world, and there is soil, composed of pulverised pumice, limestone widespread modern speculation that Santorini and a mixture of chalk, slate, ash and lava. It has could be Plato’s fabled lost city of Atlantis. been that way for centuries and the system has Several centuries later, new settlers from the Pelo- gradually been perfected. The extremely inhospiponnese came across the island and made a go at table climate – limited rainfall, relentlessly strong living there again. While exploring the desert-like winds and blistering sunshine – show no mercy, so the grape yield is low; but their quality is landscape, they stumbled upon survivors of the blast. Against all the odds, flimsy grapevines had outstanding. been eking out an existence amidst the ash and
How to get there Luxaviation flies to SANTORINI Santorini International Airport is located near Kamari village.
34 Secret Hideaways
In order to protect the grapes as much as possible, the vines are pruned into a cylindrical shape: the kouluras, the characteristic pruning method on Santorini. This cocoons the fruit, so it can mature in the centre of a coil of vines lying on the ground. In the eye of the casual beholder, this looks like a wooden basket. Shortly before the harvest, in the midst of a scorching August, the vines are wetted at night by the mist rolling in from the sea. Water is far too precious on Santorini to waste it on vine irrigation... no longer referred to the island of Santorini by name. The jewel in the crown of Santorinian winemaking is Vinsanto. Islanders consider it the Nectar Over the next few centuries, while the island was of the Gods. It is produced from the native under the rule of the Ottoman Empire, the Turks Assyrtiko grape. Nowadays, the wine is made shipped Vinsanto from Santorini to Odessa on by the young Margarita Karamolegou, under the the Black Sea and onwards to Moscow and watchful eye of the elders of the Gavalas family. St. Petersburg, where it filled the sacramental chalWine connoisseurs refer to it as smelling of oiled ices of the Russian Orthodox Church and leather and honey-toasted nuts, with candied its monasteries. At the same time, it graced the orange rinds. This work of oenophile poetry lips of the rich and famous of the medieval world. comes with 10% alcohol by volume and a dark amber appearance in the glass. The same catastrophic explosion that eventually blessed Santorini with its distinctive shape as well According to the tradition of the winemaking as its world-famous wine also mean it is home process on Santorini, weeks after the harvest, to one of the most interesting archaeological full-grown men are required to do the job, since discoveries of modern times. Ancient Akrotiri, they must be strong enough to crush the grapes located on the southern shores of Santorini, has for the Vinsanto in the kanava (cellar), using been dubbed the “Minoan Pompeii” ever since their bare feet and without getting dizzy or its discovery in 1860, when workers quarrying light-headed from the intense fumes. for pumice to be used in the construction of the Suez Canal unearthed it once again. In 1967, Vinsanto put Santorini on the map. Around Spyridon Marinatos, a Greek archaeologist at the 1200 AD, the Venetians dominated the eastern University of Athens, started digging up the Mediterranean. They named Santorini after Saint whole town. Walking through the dusty ruins and Irene. The island became the centre of a trade remains of the ancient city of Akrotiri nowadays, providing the Pope in Rome with this delicious it becomes clear that someone must have soundsweet, amber-coloured nectar. This was long ed the alarm to evacuate in 1600 BC. Unlike in before Tuscany had come up with its own variety Pompeii, no traces of human remains or of liveof Vin Santo, the so-called “Holy Wine” that stock have ever been discovered in Akrotiri. The
01 / Akrotiri frescoes.
02 / Jars unearthed at the archaeological site of Akrotiri. Minoan civilization (16th Century BC). 03 / Fresco depicting ship procession from Akrotiri.
residents clearly had ample warning that the town was in imminent danger of destruction... just in time to flee across the sea in their boats. Fascinating Akrotiri today shows all they left behind. The town is still only partially excavated, but the quality of the sophisticated art and elaborate architecture is astonishing. Marinatos came across frescoes of blue-faced monkeys swinging through a canopy of palm trees; bold, muscular young boys posing as boxers; and gazelle-like, bare-breasted women gathering saffron. The ruins provide one of those rare glimpses into urban life; a snapshot of what life was like in the Minoan period. For instance, many large earthen jars or pithoi have been uncovered, some with traces of olive oil, fish and onion inside. Before tourism, Santorini was a world of pirates, Venetian traders and occupying Ottomans... Nowadays, as you let your gaze wander westwards over the crests of the islands, and then northwards over the shimmering sea below the village of Oia and the graceful silhouette of a threemaster threading her way through the caldera, it is hard to imagine a more otherworldly sunset. Sipping on a glass of chilled Vinsanto, it is as if the earth stood still.
36 Secret Hideaways
The Tsitouras Collection com www.tsitouras. Mystique r www.mystique.g Vedema Resort www.vedema.gr
Santorini offers its visitors one of the worldâ€™s most exceptional vistas: the caldera, a great cauldron of blue seawater, held in the rocky embrace of the arms of the Santorini archipelago.
Inspiring places to stay on Santorini
Stay in one of only five individually designed suites overlooking one of the most spectacular views in the Mediterranean from a 1,000-foot cliff in the village of Firostefani.
The Tsitouras Collection Hotel offers unparalleled luxury. It was probably the first boutique hotel on the planet and that is one of the reasons why some of the world’s most legendary celebrities, Greek soprano Maria Callas among them, have made Tsitouras their home away from home. Explore the island’s culinary secrets with an enticing array of exclusive treats, such as Santorini’s native tomatoes, white aubergines, round courgettes and Chloro cheese, as well as special varieties of broad bean. Private food and wine tasting on the hotel premises can be arranged by the concierge. The Tsitouras Collection is named after Dimitris Tsitouras, a celebrated, lifelong aficionado of Greek art and history and a passionate collector: at least 500 artefacts decorate his hotel, including an original Picasso. A chance encounter with Gianni Versace made him decide to start running a hotel. It was a life-changing decision for Tsitouras and his friend Versace booked the entire hotel for a month back in 1999. Mystique offers unabashed luxury in its spa suites built in one of the world’s most beautiful settings, with outstanding views of the Aegean Sea. It is a stone’s throw away from Ammoudi Bay in the town of Oia, inviting you for a stroll
with its picturesque and traditional fish tavernas and art galleries. Alternatively, you could stay inland. Sceptical...? Why come all the way to Santorini, famed for its breathtaking views over the sea-filled crater, only to stay among the vineyards? Then check out the Vedema Resort. When you come through the gate from one of the village of Megalohori’s carfree roads, step inside and you will be instantly converted. An unexpectedly pretty courtyard, laid out with rounded volcanic pebbles and centred on a pool. A wine bar in the catacombs, dinner in a 400-year-old winery, glimpses of whitewashed roofs; the only sound being the hourly peal from the blue-domed little church at the centre of the village. For anyone seeking a true hideaway on Santorini, away from the crowded caldera and in one of its prettiest villages, this place would make an excellent choice.
01 / Tsitouras Collection Hotel, view on the caldera.
02 & 03 / Mystique, private dining and panoramic view.
04 / Vinsanto Restaurant, Vedema Resort.
38 Secret Hideaways
Six freshly caught squid hanging on a clothesline by the sea.
Things you should know before heading to Santorini:
The beaches are black pumice and get scorching underfoot!
The climate on Santorini is typically Mediterranean, with extended periods of sunshine throughout most of the year, and especially warm and dry summers. Most hotels are open for business from April to October only. In the evenings, warm clothing is advised.
Santorini is not a destination where you could rent a beachfront villa. Upmarket tourism is all clustered along the volcano crater rim at 1,000 feet above sea level.
Santorinian village roads are steep and full of steps. The island is not suitable for travellers with small children in pushchairs, as exploring involves a lot of walking. Most places are inaccessible by car.
As on all other Greek islands, drinking the tap water on Santorini is not recommended. Bottled water is easily available. Bear in mind that there are no proper hospitals on the island, merely a basic health centre, so always take whatever precautions you may need to take.
Lost Atlantis? Now that you have finally found the Lost City of Atlantis, the question of what to do there all day long might come up. It is a unique and great fun way to travel around the island, as these machines can get you anywhere, and offer the freedom of a motorbike with the comfort of a car. www.vipcars-santorini.com
Santorini has a honeymoon vibe and you will be spoilt for choice as regards fabulous al fresco dining options. But there are more thrilling activities on offer as well for the sporty, the adventurous and the restless. For a full bird’s eye view of the impressive Santorini archipelago, nothing compares to a sightseeing tour by helicopter. A charter tour will provide you with a memorable experience and certainly the most spectacular views of the deep blue of the Aegean. Many hotels feature their own helipads and booking can easily be arranged by their front desks. Fly over Megalohori and its vineyards, soar over Thirassia and its colourful houses, or hover above Nea Kameni and the famous caldera. Tours can also be customized. Why not fly out to Mykonos for lunch? If you fancy a bit of that, you can find more info here: www.superior-air.gr Back on solid ground, Santorini is best explored by quad or buggy.
Next, head out one late afternoon for a swim in the sulphurous hot springs on the volcano and have a sunset cruise around the caldera. These 5-hour boat trips leave daily from the old port; accessible by cable car or – the traditional way! – by donkey. You can book at www.dakoutrostravel.gr/ sunsetcruise.htm A half day could also be spent hiking along the cliff-top trail between the main towns of Fira and Oia – a narrow path offering stunning views and great photo opportunities – and then down the stairs to the picturesque port of Ammoudi, with its little fish tavernas by the water. Santorini is one of the top diving spots in Greece. Submerged caves and myriad species of fish are amongst the island’s underwater attractions... or you could just collect sea urchins from the rocks! For an adrenaline-charged day, try a speedboat tour of the island’s seascape or an off-road mountain bike tour of Santorini’s ragged landscape.
01 / Boat with tourists moored at Nea Kameni volcano.
02 / Quad biking.
BY CHRIS TINA HEI DT
Grapes & Flavours
Alice’s Men The Alice Hartmann vineyard The old lady’s living room is now used for wine tasting. People used to be afraid to ring the doorbell.
was once run by a strong woman. She proved herself in the man’s world of winemaking and even provided Riesling to the British royal family. Now a few men are honouring her name and their personal commitment, passion and knack are ensuring that Alice Hartmann wines are once again counted among the very best.
young woman with long brown hair and a red silk scarf in her hand. This is the lively image of Alice Hartmann that I have in mind when I ring the bell of the pink villa in Wormeldange in the Luxembourgian Moselle region. Her name is emblazoned in golden letters on a marble plaque next to the entrance, but it isn’t the pretty woman from the website who opens the door for me. Instead, two gentlemen invite me inside with a friendly smile: Pierre Wesner, one of the owners, and Hans-Jörg Befort, the vineyard’s cellarmaster. With a laugh, they tell me that many people assume that they will see the woman from the Internet, although she is actually a model from Berlin.
on her own. She was a truly exceptional person,” explains Pierre Wesner. In viniculture, which was a real man’s world at the time, Alice Hartmann stepped in for her husband. She fought for her rights and, thanks to a strong network, made her way to the top – even the Grand Duke of Luxembourg and the British royal family are said to have drunk Hartmann wines. “She was very successful at public relations,” says Wesner. “She did, however, also have an exclusive, rather snobbish, image; many people thought she was unfriendly. People hardly dared to ring the bell here when they wanted to buy wine. They said that she wouldn’t let anyone into the house.” New owners with experience and vision
When we take a seat in the parlour, I learn that the woman who gave her name to the vineyard died 25 years ago. The large room overlooking the Moselle, which takes up almost the entire length of the house, still contains some of her dining and living room furniture; antiquities made of dark wood. Her smiling face looks out from an old wedding photo which Hans-Jörg Befort brings down from the upper floor of the villa: A happy young bride in an ankle-length white gown standing next to her husband. “Alice Hartmann managed this vineyard together with her husband during the 1920s. He died very young, so she continued to manage the vineyard
She lived to be more than 80 years old, but had no children. Following her death, there was only a single nephew to inherit her estate, and he finally decided to sell the winery. Wesner hesitated for a long time when two friends asked him to join them in taking over the vineyard. After studying business and working at a Swiss bank for a few years, he had made his career in aviation, lastly as the vice president of Cargolux. For his father, who was himself a vintner, it was especially important that he choose a different occupation. The silver-haired and bespectacled 60 year-old on his second career looks out of the windows
The old vaulted cellar under the villa is the site of tastings and discussions â€“ and then itâ€™s still what cellar master Hans-JĂśrg Befort says that goes.
42 Grapes & Flavours
“ When all the other vineyards have already completed their harvests, Hartmann grapes are still hanging on the vine (…) until they are fully ripe.”
of the Hartmann Villa and smiles. “When I confessed to him that I was the co-owner of a winery, he just said: Why don’t you tell your mother yourself?” Wesner recalls that, at the beginning, the take-over and refurbishment of the traditional winery was an experiment with high financial risks for the friends. The winery consumed quite a bit of money. “For example, the old arched cellars still contained very large tun barrels which we had to replace. All of the technology was obsolete; we had to modernise the house.” And then there were the vineyards. Pierre Wesner first tried his own hand as winemaker before HansJörg Befort – also the child of vintners from the Moselle – brought his experience and vision to the company in 2000. Hunched over, we carefully descend the narrow stairs from the ground floor of the villa into the sanctum of the house. In the old arched cellar of white limestone, barrels are neatly arranged next to and above each other. In them, newer wines mature while dusty wine bottles sit on brick shelves alongside. “Welcome to the graveyard of old wines,” says Wesner, not without a bit of pride. “The oldest bottle dates from 1945, a Riesling.” Wormeldange is located in the best Riesling location in the Luxembourgian Moselle: the Koeppchen. An idyllic south-facing hill with a shell limestone soil and 55% slope. The hand-dug terraces of the Koeppchen are the sole property of the winery, some of the vines there were planted by Alice Hartmann herself in 1932. Befort, Wesner and the rest of the team continue to use the old vines and maintain the Riesling tradition. “Now, however, we plant the vines very differently than Alice Hartmann did. We have developed three different types from the original Riesling from the Koeppchen. The wine from the old terraces in particular has benefitted from this
01 / Domaine Alice Hartmann was already a supplier to the court in earlier times thanks to the vintner’s good connections.
02 / Age-old treasures: “The graveyard of old wines”.
Passion paired with craftsmanship: Hans-Jörg Befort comes from a family of vintners.
How to get there LUXAVIATION FLIES TO LUXEMBOURG Findel Airport is located 20 km (12.5 mi.) from Wormeldange.
and developed its own spicy character,” explains Befort. In order to get the best out of the grapes, the vintners subject their nerves to a very trying test ever year: When all the other vineyards have already completed their harvests, Hartmann grapes are still hanging on the vine. As long as possible, until they are fully ripe. “Then all of our time is spent at the vineyard, making sure that the botrytis, the noble rot, isn’t expanding, waiting for the perfect moment.” Then everything has to happen very quickly. Only the best grapes are selected and plucked. The result is very limited production of the highest quality. International success Using a long glass pipette, Hans-Jörg Befort draws the young wine from an opening in the wooden barrel and pours it into two glasses. It glows golden. Pierre Wesner raises his glass and tastes it. “Looks good, but it still needs some time,” he says with a glance to the cellarmaster. It’s easy to see that the chemistry between them works. Their tone is light and friendly. “We talk a lot, sample the wines together and try to reach an agreement. But in the end we still do what the cellarmaster wants to do,” grins Wesner. He knows that success has proven that the slim 40-year-old is right. In the meantime, the men of the Domaine Alice Hartmann have expanded
their offer to include Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and now work around ten hectares in a prime position in Luxembourg. They have also taken the unusual step of crossing the border. Wines with the Alice Hartmann name are now being grown in globally-recognised locations in Burgundy and in the German Moselle and Saar regions such as the Trittenheimer Apotheke and the Scharzhofberg near Wiltingen. Because the old cellar long ago became too small, a new building is going up at the edge of the villa’s 3,000 m2 grounds, with panoramic windows overlooking the Moselle. This is where Befort will in future store and produce his wines under the most up-to-date conditions. Hard work and passion Pierre Wesner has also focussed primarily on winemaking for the past two years and is now the “handyman” for the company, as he says jokingly while pouring a Crémant Brut, a cuvée of Riesling, Pinot and Chardonnay with a sparkling fruity taste and a slight hint of apricot. Befort proudly reports that this Crémant, one of Hartmann’s long-time favourites, was served at the wedding of hereditary Grand Duke Guillaume to Countess Stéphanie de Lannoy last October. He can hardly believe it himself: After more than 10 years of hard work and passion, the men have recreated the exclusivity and excellent reputation of Hartmann wines. They are served in selected restaurants and available at the vineyard itself. Wine connoisseurs submit their reservations a long time in advance. And as in an earlier time, certain people are afraid to come by and purchase wine. “The old image is threatening to catch up with us,” laughs Pierre Wesner. “We strive to have kept the door of the house open – even if a woman would be quite a good addition sometimes.”
44 Grapes & Flavours
Winemaking in Luxembourgian Moselle
Wines selection: - Riesling Koeppchen La Chapelle Alice Hartmann - Riesling Les Terrasses Alice Hartmann - Crémant Alice Hartmann Brut - Crémant Alice Hartmann Brut Rosé - Crémant Alice Hartmann Grande Cuvée
Between the frontier towns of Schengen and Wasserbillig, the Moselle forms the natural border between Germany and Luxembourg. The wide Moselle Valley offers optimal growth conditions for white wine vines such as Rivaner, Elbling, Auxerrois, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. Red wines, for example Pinot Noir, are also planted in the Luxembourgian Moselle, but are comparatively rare. A significant portion of the white wine grapes are turned into sparkling wine called Crémant. Around 500 vintners now work the vineyards over a relatively small area of 1,300 hectares – a majority of which supply the “Domaines Vinsmoselle” wine cooperative; private vintners account for 28% of producers. While the vines in the canton of Remich primarily grow in marl clay, there are patches of shell limestone soil around Grevenmacher. On the opposite bank of the Moselle lies the German MoselleSaar-Ruwer area. Both regions are historically very closely linked. It was the Romans who brought winemaking to the Moselle in the 1st century AD.
nn ice Hartma Domaine Al 4 -7 72 le pa rue Princi eldange L-5480 Worm Luxembourg 760 002 Tel. +352 0 460 76 52 +3 x Fa .lu e-hartmann ic al domaine@ u .l nn ma rt ha www.alice-
The wide Moselle Valley and the south slope of the Koeppchen offer the optimal conditions for top-class Rieslings.
BY ANDREW FITZS IM ON S
Jönsson’s heavenly hideaway
Swedish chef extraordinaire marinades wild produce with a soupçon of science to create some of the world’s finest cuisine and all from a quintessentially west London hideaway.
is cuisine is revered by food critics across the globe, yet for Hedone’s Michelinstarred chef Mikael Jönsson, the proof is not just in the pudding, but in the sumptuous entrées and main courses too. Jönsson’s meteoric rise to the top has been somewhat unorthodox, however, after initially practising as a lawyer in his hometown of Gothenburg, Sweden. He specialised in commercial law and litigation for the best part of 20 years, prior to embarking on his quest for culinary excellence. Despite his deep affection for the kitchen as a teenager, food allergies, particularly to shellfish and raw meat, ultimately forced Jönsson’s artisan hand, and played a big part in his decision to switch allegiances from the culinary arts to the legal profession.
Undeterred, Jönsson went about his daily business as a lawyer in Sweden for a number of years, but still made time to write a succession of food blogs, which he used to review restaurants he had visited on his travels. With such a passion for food, it was only natural that the Swede would follow that path. In July 2011, Jönsson (then aged 44) opened his first restaurant, Hedone, in the leafy west London suburb of Chiswick. The name is apt because, in Greek mythology, Hedone was the goddess of sensual pleasures. And few would argue that the ambience and menu offered at Hedone are anything short of pure indulgence, where taste really does matter. Since then, Hedone has won the UK’s National Restaurant Awards’ “One to Watch” category
and – in October 2012, after just 14 months trading – it scooped the prestigious Michelin star award, catapulting Jönsson into the limelight in a completely unprecedented way.
daily basis and is principally based around the ability to source the best produce at any one time. If it doesn’t pass the Jönsson taste test, it won’t end up on your plate.
For most budding entrepreneurs, opening a restaurant in today’s economic climate would be challenging enough. When you add into the mix that Jönsson is a self-taught chef, who had to overcome some severe allergies, and had never worked in hospitality before, he was embarking into truly uncharted waters... and not just to catch fish.
So, now presiding over one of the most soughtafter haute cuisine restaurants in the UK, what really makes this Swede tick?
His no-holds-barred approach to food is surprisingly simple, yet both refined and sophisticated, using only the finest ingredients and wild produce available in western Europe. This is evident through Hedone’s menu, which changes on a
“I’ve always been an entrepreneur,” said Jönsson. “Even at the ages of 13 and 14, I used to sell ice cream on the beach during the summer months, which is still one of the most lucrative things that I have ever done. It was incredible how easy it was to make money. My food allergies, however, have always been my Achilles heel when I was growing up back in Sweden, and it was only when I moved to the south of France in my early 30s that the warm climate started to have a posi-
48 Star Chefs
“ The refreshingly unfussy food, from a small and daily changing menu, relies primarily on the superlative quality of the ingredients.” Michelin guide 2013 The self-taught chef, Mikael Jönsson, won a Michelin Star within a year of opening.
Jönsson uses only the finest ingredients and wild produce available in western Europe.
tive effect on both my asthma and eczema. It also enabled me to further my education through livestock and food science, which has always remained my number one passion. “My father was also an executive at Volvo, and I can recall several occasions when, rather than take clients out to restaurants, he used to invite them back to the house and I would cook for them when I was in my early to mid-teens. Although it wasn’t on the same level as what I’m doing now, it was probably pretty good for my age and gave me an equally good grounding for produce quality. “I used to attend business trips with my father, and was fortunate to experience many different cultures and eat at some top restaurants, which increased my own hunger to become a professional chef,” he added. Like a true entrepreneur, Jönsson was able to take advantage of the internet boom in the mid to late 1990s, which allowed him to work remotely from the south of France. Also, being surrounded by such amazing produce only served to intensify the desire to practice what he had preached for so long.
But it wasn’t until Jönsson turned 40 that his life How to get there took the biggest turn of all. Weight became an issue for the Swede, as was his growing frustration LUXAVIATION FLIES TO with his allergies. The solution came in the form LONDON London Biggin Hill Airport of a surprisingly high-fat diet – popular back in is located in South East his native land – which saw Jönsson shed the London, just 19.3 km pounds fast and improve his overall wellbeing. (12 mi.) from the heart of the capital.
He was able to identify that the root cause of the problem was the Helicobacter pylori bacterium, which can only proliferate if your stomach produces hydrogen through the consumption of fructose (fruit sugar) and wheat. While owning a Michelin-starred restaurant is certainly no mean feat, managing to overcome such severe allergies is arguably Jönsson biggest success of all, and throws down the gauntlet to all pharmaceutical companies: what’s good for the goose is surely good for the gander. Jönsson is now able to blend his insightful knowledge of sugar, wheat and traditional oils with creativity to conjure up some real masterpieces in west London. Hedone’s fine dining experience now comes courtesy of three menus: five courses for £47 (e54), eight courses for £65 (e75), or the Carte Blanche option for £95 (e110) – all inspired by Jönsson, to ensure a more personal touch.
Northolt Airport is located 22.5 km (14 mi.) from central London.
50 Star Chefs
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3/26/13 9:36 AM
The 24 m2 Cabin overlooking the Lule River valley.
BY GEOFF THOM PS O N
A childhood dream come true Almost 1,000 km north of Stockholm and just 200 km from the border with Finland to the east, the forest of Harads is home to one of the most unique places to stay on the planet.
The Bird’s Nest treeroom’s interior and the tree sauna which accommodates up to 8 people.
“We offer an opportunity for people to live with nature.”
01 / The Bird’s Nest is
built on the contrasts between the outside and inside.
02 / The UFO’s interior.
ive custom-designed treerooms offer the traveller a truly unique experience in contemporary style, in an unspoiled natural habitat where guests can leave behind the stress of modern life to relax and rejuvenate in the intimacy of a tranquil and sophisticated setting. Kent and Britta Lindvall based their distinctive concept on “The Tree Lover”, a documentary film that was made in the forests around Harads by Jonas Selberg Augustsén. The film tells a philosophical story of three men who discover their roots by building a tree house together, highlighting the tree’s importance to the people of the region, both historically and culturally. Spurred on by extremely positive initial feedback from the first guests at the Treehouse, Kent Lindvall explored the concept of building on this experience. In 2008, when guiding a fishing trip to Russia, he chatted over the campfire with three Swedish architects; upon their return home, two others came on board and together they conceived Treehotel. According to Kent, “At Treehotel we offer an opportunity for people to live with nature. Too often nowadays we are caught up in the stress of modern living; we offer both an escape from this as well as enabling people to experience at firsthand how beautiful and serene nature can be. The contemporary designs suit all tastes, offering home comforts in a forest setting. I guess I’m lucky to be able to work in such an environment!”
architects but with the same focus in mind: they must fit in with the natural surroundings – no trees are destroyed or soil damaged at all – and must be functional 12 months of the year. All are situated 4-6 m off the ground and are accessed by ramp, bridge or retractable stairs. They vary in size and sleep between two and four. Not only is the architecture of each treeroom stunning, but the interiors are custom-designed, with furniture, fabrics and lighting fixtures all from the distinguished Swedish lighting company, ateljé Lyktan. Meals are served at Britta’s nearby guesthouse, providing a taste of genuine Swedish hospitality and a warm family atmosphere in a 1930s-1950s setting. For guests who prefer their privacy, meals can be brought to the treerooms. A material world
Designed by man – Developed by nature
Local materials are used, including wood from sustainable pine and birch forests, with local construction companies building according to the agreed designs.
The initial phase of the project opened in summer 2010 with five exclusive and utterly distinct treerooms which were all designed by different
Power is provided by electricity from a nearby hydroelectric plant, with underfloor heating and good insulation combining to keep guests warm.
01 / The Mirrorcube’s interior.
02 / The Blue Cone is
based on simplicity and accessibility.
The UFO is built for four people, two adults and two children, with separate bedrooms, bathroom and living area.
Lamps use LED bulbs and the special toilets use an incineration system which burns waste to clean ash. Water for washing is collected locally and the sinks are water-efficient. The day-to-day running of the hotel therefore has almost no impact on the natural environment. A treeroom for every design The MIRRORCUBE, designed by Tham & Videgård in 2010, is 4x4x4 m on an aluminium frame and is camouflaged by mirrored walls that enable it to blend into the forest. To avoid birds flying into the walls, the exterior has been clad with infrared film which is invisible to humans but highly visible to birds. This treeroom offers one queen-size bed, with the other models also including two single beds. The 24 m2 CABIN (Cyrén & Cyrén) can be accessed via a bridge among the trees which leads onto a large wooden deck and then the treeroom, from where other viewing decks and nesting spots are located. The BIRD’S NEST (Inredningsgruppen Bertil Harström) contrasts the indoors and outdoors, proving camouflage that allows guest to disappear and blend into the surroundings.
The Mirrorcube is an exciting hide-out among the trees, camouflaged by mirrored walls that reflect their surroundings.
The 22 m2 BLUE CONE (sandellsandberg arkitekter) is a traditional wooden structure based on simplicity and accessibility, in terms of both materials and design. Its specific shape gives a sense of height and lightness. Access is via a bridge from the nearby mountainside and suitable for people with reduced mobility.
Kent a n Treeho d Britta Li tel ndvall Ede
forsvä g 2A 960 24 Harads , Swed Tel +4 en 6 (0) 9281 0 Fax +4 403 6 (0) 9281 0 info@t 300 reehot el.se www.tr eehote l.se
The UFO (Inredningsgruppen Bertil Harström) is based on a design that is completely out-ofplace in its surroundings: the room is cast in durable composite materials providing a lightweight and hardwearing design.
Treehotel offers both high-quality information to tourists, as well as high-standard accommodation in a harmonious setting with a minimal ecological footprint, where guests can enjoy the peace and purity of unspoiled nature.
The sixth treeroom, the 30 m2 DRAGONFLY, was designed by a Finnish architect and opened in late March 2013. More are planned in a phased roll-out which maintains a 50% occupancy rate in winter and 75% in summer.
It offers an opportunity to live out a childhood dream while, at the same time, addressing adult responsibilities by respecting the environment and enabling guests to experience nature in its purest form.
The place beyond the pines All offer stunning views of the Lule River and surrounding forests. In addition, the tree sauna has a capacity of 12 in the setting of hundredyear-old pines. A visit to a sauna is a sacred and respectful encounter with the four basic elements: the fertile soil, the blazing fire, the fresh air, and clean drinkable water.
How to get there Luxaviation flies to Luleå (Kallax) Luleå Airport is located 100 km (62.1 mi.) from Harads.
BY S alom ĂŠ Jeko
Where? ARENA Piazza BrĂ 1 Verona Tel. +39 04 58 00 51 51 Programme and booking? www.arena.it
na re A / a id A
From 14th June to 8th September 58 performances of 6 operas, dedicated to the great composers Giuseppe Verdi and Richard Wagner, to commemorate two hundred years since their birth.
01 / Romeo & Juliette,
02 / Placido Domingo, conductor in Aida, 2012.
Arena di Verona, centenary
From 14 June to 8 September 2013, music lovers are odds-on to be found in Italy celebrating the first hundred years of the Verona Arena Festival. The chance to attend a series of exceptional performances and get the next hundred years off to a flying start. th
n historic arena, peerless acoustics, 13,000 spectators and the sky as a backdrop: every year, the Verona Arena Festival attracts opera lovers from the world over. But 2013 will not just be a year like any other. The end of an era and the start of another, this is the celebration marking of 100 years of the festival. Getting the ball rolling is a new production of Aida, the first opera performed on the sand in 1913. A real success at the time, it enabled Verona to become Italy’s premier open-air opera stage and the largest in the world, which it remains to this day. All the great opera singers of the 20th century have performed on the sands of the arena, starting with a young Maria Callas as Gioconda in Ponchielli’s opera of the same name, on 2 August 1947. So it is with a nod to its history that this year’s festival will open. That will be followed by five other operas and four gala evenings, each of which will be performed several times and staged in a variety of ways between 14th June and 8th September. And the cherry on the cake? As well as bringing together all the big names of the international opera scene, the honorary artistic director for this 91st festival will be Placido Domingo, who will also be conducting and performing. Verdi, at the heart of the programme But 2013 is also a celebration of two other landmarks: two hundred years since the births of Giuseppe Verdi and Richard Wagner. The former remains undoubtedly the composer of choice at Verona: his operas have been performed numerous times on the sands because of both their prestige and their different productions, sometimes spectacular, sometimes more intimate. That is why the audience will find La Traviata, Il Trovatore and Rigoletto on the programme; a trilogy of Verdi’s most popular, which will surely get a rapturous reception from the Verona arena. Verdi and Wagner
will also be honoured in the gala evening of 15th August, at which the young and celebrated Daniel Harding will conduct Placido Domingo, accompanied by the greatest performers of Wagner and Verdi of our times. But the stage is not the only magic of the Arena: the amphitheatre is a show in itself, starting with the ritual of lighting the candles, which precedes the start of each performance. This custom, born in Verona, has now been exported to all open-air operas.
60 Art Treats
The atmosphere pervading this amphitheatre is unique: it is bewitching and magnificent at the same time.
xcellence caught up with Paolo Gavazzeni, artistic director of the 91st Arena di Verona festival. What do you think makes Verona an exceptional venue for opera? To begin with, choosing Verona to hold this festival was a gamble, but it has been a success right from the start. The atmosphere pervading this amphitheatre is unique: it is bewitching and magnificent at the same time. We’re talking about an open-air stage, so of course the weather is always a problem. But, in good weather, the combination of a starry sky and an operatic performance is just amazing. And the city lends itself well to the event: people staying for a day or two can make use of the daytime to see the historic sites and cap it off with an evening listening to opera. Not a bad itinerary, right?
What have been the stand-out moments of the last hundred years? Aida, Carmen, Nabucco... All the great opera classics have been put on here, performed by the world’s most celebrated singers. They don’t need to prepare more than that. They come and sing like they always do; the Arena’s acoustics do the rest. How has the programme for this centenary been put together? As you know, we are paying tribute to two composers, Verdi and Wagner, in the bicentenary year of their birth. Verdi’s works have always had a presence in our programmes, and this year they will be back again. We will therefore have a new production of Aida at this 91st festival, directed by the Catalan company La Fura dels Baus. This opera will also close the festival, but it will be a far more traditional production.
How to get there Luxaviation flies to VERONA Verona Villafranca Airport, also known as Valerio Catullo Airport, is located 5 km (3.1 mi.) southwest of Verona.
What will be the common theme of the festival? I don’t know if we can talk about a “common theme”, but the audience will be able to discover great classics of the opera from a variety of angles. We will modernise them, inevitably, but without forgetting the past. Tradition is very important to us; something that we must preserve. What can you tell us about the different productions and will there be any surprises? Yes, obviously. La Fura dels Baus promises very modern productions. It will be something totally different: a complete break with what we are used to seeing. In Aida, for example, Egypt will be on stage in a way that is very minimalist but nevertheless impressive.
What can you tell us about the 2013 crop? Martina Serafin, Violeta Urmana, Vitalij Kowaljow, Placido Domingo... The biggest names in international opera will be here, but there will also be local stars. In general, and even if they sometimes find it hard to organise getting here, the artists like coming to sing in Verona. It’s a pleasant and relaxing place for them.
62 Our Fleet
Embraer Legacy 600
uxaviation has acquired an 8th business jet for its fleet and now has 23 aircraft, 8 in Luxembourg and 15 operated by FairJets in Paderborn (Germany). It is an Embraer Legacy 600 and the company hopes to add another of this model to its fleet by summer 2013. It has 2 engines and dual pilot controls, and can hold 13 passengers. The aircraft provides three separate cabin zones so passengers can work or dine, while others relax or sleep on the foldout divan in the third cabin zone. The 22 large windows fill the cabin with natural light. The baggage compartment is the largest in its class and fully accessible during flight. High-speed WiFi means passengers can email, make and receive calls, and transfer files. There are two large flat-screens, MP3 interfaces and split sound systems throughout the 3 cabin zones. The wet galley has plenty of space to store and prepare fresh food, plus a microwave and oven, and more. Hi-tech features reduce pilot workload, giving outstanding operational flexibility in busy airspaces, tough-terrain airports and bad weather, so pilots can land in more places, more of the time.
Passengers CABIN Length CABIN Width 11 8.66 m 2.19 m S Bombardier Challenger 300 9 8.72 m 2.19 m Cessna Citation C680 Soverign 9 7.70 m 1.68 m Cessna Citation C560 XLS/EXCEL 7+1 5.60 m 1.68 m Cessna C525 CJ1/CJ1+ 5+1 4.27 m 1.49 m CEssna C525B CJ3 6+1 5.02 m 1.47 m Cessna C650 Citation VII 7+1 5.60 m 1.68 m Hawker Beechcraft Premier 1 6 4.11 m 1.65 m Cessna Citation 560 XLS 8 5.8 m 1.7 m SAT Embraer Legacy 600 13 12.95 m 2.1 M 2 AIRCRAFT wi co GULFSTREAM G550 D-AVAR 16 + 4 13.39 M 2.49 M Bombardier Challenger 604
The Embraer Legacy 600 has 2 engines and dual pilot controls.
CABIN Height Luggage Space Max. range Max. cruisinG speed Company EQuiPMENT 7,458 km 870 km/h Fairjets & Luxaviation Leather seats, AirCon, Lavatory, Galley, Espresso machine, microwave, 1.85 m 3.00 m3 SatCoM, Air Show ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM, CD/DVD 5,741 km 848 km/h Fairjets & Luxaviation Leather seats, AirCon, Lavatory, Galley, SatCoM, CD/DVD, Air Show 1.85 m 3.10 m3 1.73 m 2.83 m3 5,273 km 846 km/h Fairjets Leather seats, AirCon, Lavatory, SatCoM, CD/DVD, Air Show, Oven 1.73 m 2.50 m3 3,815 km 891 km/h Fairjets Leather seats, AirCon, Lavatory, SatCoM, refreshment centre with microwave, power sockets 2,460 km 720 km/h Fairjets Leather seats, AirCon, Lavatory, SatCoM, power sockets 1.46 m 1.96 m3 1.45 m 1.66 m3 3,334 km 850 km/h Fairjets Leather seats, AirCon, Lavatory, power sockets 1.73 m 2.30 m3 5,273 km 891 km/h Fairjets Leather seats, AirCon, Lavatory, Galley, SatCoM, refreshment centre with oven, coat closet 2,519 km 841 km/h Fairjets Leather seats, AirCon, Lavatory 1.68 m 2.20 m3 1.75 m 2.25 m3 3,300 KM 817 km/h Luxaviation Leather seats, power supply, Galley, Microwave, LAVATORY, SATCOM, AIRCON 6,204 km 843 km/h Luxaviation Leather seats, AirCon, vanity & toilet lavatories, Galley/Bar 1.83 m 9.2 M3 RAFT with coffee maker, microwave oven, thermal oven, hot cup, coat closet, entertainment cabinet, DVD, Air Show, personal monitors 12,501 KM 941 KM/H FAIRJETS LEATHER SEATS, POWER SUPPLY, LAVATORY, GALLEY, AIRCON 2.24 M 6.4 M 3
64 In the Next Issue
e u s s I t x e N e h In t
l a n a t n a P e h T Secret Hideaways The Pantanal Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay
When AndrĂŠ Thuronyi gave up his profitable Rio de Janeiro travel agency for the Spartan comforts of a lodge buried in the depths of the Pantanal, he did not expect that a few years down the line he would be one of the staunchest defenders of the animals of this region with such unique climate and geography, operating from its very heart. This is an ecosystem unparalleled the world over and its future is under threat from intensive soya cultivation and deforestation. This Hungarian national has dedicated his future to saving the last blue macaws, jaguars and howler monkeys, by using his fame to attract environmentally responsible tourists who love nature and the great outdoors to his lodge in the heart of this stunning wilderness. It is a tall order, but this is a man as tenacious as he is optimistic.
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4/25/13 1:47 PM
Europe, Germany / 1750
SA N TO RI N
Published on May 6, 2013