LUXURY MAGAZINE Fall/Winter 2024

- A n Island Sanctuary like no other

cd: ROBB AARON GORDON

cd: ROBB AARON GORDON

cd: ROBB AARON GORDON

EXPLORE THE UNRIVALED ™

Delighting in landscapes that inspired the masters, spend the day strolling lavender-scented villages. Back on board, savor this delicious memory while dreaming of more to come, all while enjoying the unrivaled space and consummate service found only aboard The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet®

EXCLUSIVELY FOR LUXURY CARD MEMBERS

Receive $250 Shipboard Credit per suite* on all new bookings for 2024 through 2025 voyages

THE MOST INCLUSIVE LUXURY EXPERIENCE® TO LEARN MORE VISIT RSSC.COM CALL 1.866.387.2632 OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR

*For applicable sailings and full terms and conditions, visit RSSC.com/Luxury-Card

Just east of Atlanta, and right across from one of the world’s only lakefront Ritz-Carlton® resorts, The Homesteads at Reynolds Lake Oconee blends club amenities with private countryside, offering multi-acre limited waterfront estate sites so you can build your family’s dream home to last generations.

To learn more or make an appointment, call 706.719-7771 or visit reynoldshomesteads.com.

No. 18 at The Oconee

D cover the World’s Rivers

Embark on a journey through Europe, Asia, Africa or South America, curated by the river cruise line with the most included experiences — unrivaled on the rivers. Plus, save up to 20% on select sailings when you reserve by December 31, 2024!

Contact your preferred travel advisor to learn more.

MEDITERRANEAN

ANTARCTICA / PATAGONIA + THE FALKLANDS / SOUTH AMERICA / TRANSOCEANIC

/ NORTHERN EUROPE / ICELAND + GREENLAND / ARCTIC

At Atlas, we have set a new course for expedition cruise travel, curated for spirited explorers, led by expert guides, and enhanced by a genuine and caring crew who share a desire to connect with people, places, and our cherished natural world. From bold adventures in the Arctic and Antarctica to Cultural and Epicurean Expeditions year-round, travelers return to our luxury yachts to savor moments well-lived among new friends in a relaxed, après expedition atmosphere.

Begin exploring at AtlasOceanVoyages.com

ATLAS ALWAYS INCLUDED: Expedition Guides + Enriching Experiences, Cultural Immersion, Unlimited Wines + Spirits, L’OCCITANE Amenities, Gratuities and More

— EXCLUSIVELY FOR LUXURY CARD HOLDERS — $400 SHIPBOARD CREDIT PER STATEROOM. MENTION LUX400.

EXPLORE

“ARCHAEOLOGICAL PATHS IS THE BEST COMPANY TO JOIN FOR A TOUR OF MY COUNTRY. IT’S A JOURNEY YOU WILL NEVER FORGET.”

DR. JEHAN SADAT

Late First Lady of Egypt

INCLUDING SPECIAL ACCESS BETWEEN THE PAWS OF THE GREAT SPHINX – AN AREA OFF-LIMITS TO THE PUBLIC –WITH THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS ARCHAEOLOGIST

DR. ZAHI HAWASS

THE BEST MEMORIES

ARE MADE FROM PERFECT DETAILS.

Experience world-class cuisine, personalized service, and fascinating destinations – aboard the first 6 star slow luxury cruises on Europe’s most beautiful rivers. For more information, please contact your Travel Advisor, or simply drop us a line at (833) 305-3313.

THE FRONT PAGES WHAT’S WHAT

From art exhibits and hotel openings to adventure and travel experiences.

54 WATCHES ALL IN THE TIMING

The chronograph evokes style and substance, in every situation.

70 TECH

10 GIFTS TO GIVE & GET

From minimalist techies to serious athletes, there’s something for everyone .

78 AUTOMOTIVE SUPERCARS FOR THE SAND

They’re all about fun, fun, fun among the dunes.

72

DESIGN STATEMENT PIECES

Los Angeles–based Formed For has custom sculpture design down to a fine art.

84 ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN

LATIN LUXE

New south-of-the-border residential typologies.

62 JEWELRY HAUTE METALS

Mix yellow, rose, and white gold, bronze, and platinum for an effortlessly modern look.

74 CHEAT SHEET LOS ANGELES

As neighborhoods continue to evolve, new hot spots from Frogtown to Inglewood have emerged.

96 FURNISHINGS COOL LIKE THAT

Organic whimsy invades the oh-so-serious rationale of modernism.

99 FURNISHINGS MEXICAN SPIRIT

Modernism is alive and well in these artful products by domestic designers.

102

FASHION COASTAL ELEMENTS

The season’s most natural forms in relaxed layers and sharp angles.

138 TRAVEL GOING ALL IN

An upper echelon of allinclusive resorts is ensuring a real luxury experience.

122

ADVENTURE

THE GREAT WHITE

Exploring Antarctica aboard a small-vessel expedition yacht.

146 TRAVEL

ADVENTURE KINGDOM

Bhutan reigns among locations for awe-inspiring outdoor pursuits.

128

SPORTS TRAVEL HIGH-PEAK THRILLS

Pursue four seasons of recreational activities in the best mountain towns.

154 TRAVEL ESSENTIAL ISTANBUL

One of the most visited cities in the world is still captivating globetrotters.

136

SPORTS TRAVEL OFF THE BEATEN SKI TRACK

Two states with luxury resorts in remote locales.

158

SPORTS TRAVEL NEXT-LEVEL LESSONS

Master your passion for a sport in an immersion camp with expert instruction.

164 SPORTS TRAVEL GET IN THE GAME

Tee up to play where the golf pros play.

168

FOOD FESTIVALS THE ULTIMATE CHEFS TABLES

Culinary extravaganzas at top resort destinations.

182 DESIGN LIVING HISTORY

Historical houses with contemporary interiors.

188 REAL ESTATE PRIZED PROPERTIES

Coveted addresses with key components.

174 FOOD REDEFINING FINE DINING

Six chefs offer insight into the future of Michelin-starred restaurants.

194 ARTIST PROFILE LIVING FORM

The transformative works of Marguerite Humeau.

180 DESIGN SHINING FROM SEA TO SEA

The most luxurious ship yet for Regent Sevens Seas.

204 THE LAST PAGES WHAT’S NEXT

From fun shops and coffee-table books to new restaurants, bars, and spirits.

WHERE LEGENDARY MEETS LUXURY.

Welcome to the most unparalleled experience in all of sports and entertainment.

MAY 3RD, 2025

PADDOCK VIEW FROM THE WOODFORD RESERVE PADDOCK CLUB

On the Cover

It was mythologist Joseph Campbell who said the archetype of “The Hero” could be defined as anyone whose life was dedicated in service to something greater than themself. While it’s doubtful the myth-enmeshed artist Marguerite Humeau would define herself as such, her creative vision has been shepherded by a commitment to understanding the vastness of humanity and its place within the cosmos. “A lot of my work has been around the meaning of existence and bringing us into contact with other modes of existence,” says Humeau, who was born in Cholet, France, and currently lives in London. Her conceptual art posits the notion that just because you can’t see something, that doesn’t mean it isn’t real. In worlds seen and unseen, what matters most is the feeling. The feeling creates matter itself.

This month’s cover art, a fluid swirl of pigment on paper titled A Circular Piece of Land as an Access to the Nets of Spacetime II (Extraction Pipes), builds on this notion. It evolved from time Humeau spent in the Colorado desert, where she connected to a feeling she refers to as inhabited loneliness. “What I found interesting was that suddenly it felt like we were not on the land anymore,” she says. “I felt like a spider on the web where maybe if you step on this one place, you create tension in other areas of space, but also maybe of time. The sky was completely expansive and dark. You see all the stars. And as you walk the land, there is this kind of subterranean constellation of burrows—so you feel like you are in this gigantic net of earth and sky connected to so many living entities. You will never actually get to meet them. But you can feel that you’re connected.”

LUXURY MAGAZINE’s profile of Marguerite Humeau begins on page 194.

Just Imagine…

A resort where the day is yours to define. A destination brimming with extraordinary adventures, from fly fishing to legendary golf, world-class entertainment, an award-winning spa, and beyond. A mountain retreat where you can enjoy a spectacular stay in one of three luxury hotels or a range of private homes and estates. Discover it all at Nemacolin. A world of possibilities awaits.

PUBLISHED BY LUXURY CARD

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Deborah Frank

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Jennifer Fahey

SENIOR DESIGNER

Marie Sumino

SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR

Ambika Blackburn

PHOTO EDITOR

Kristen Hill

COPY CHIEF

Jennifer Ashton Ryan

COPY EDITORS

Kersten Deck

Jenna Sims

LU X URY M A GAZIN E

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jorge S. Arango

Tanvi Chheda

Colleen Curtis

Mark Hacking

Francisca Kellett

Brooke Mazurek

Larry Olmsted

Irene Rawlings

Andrew Sessa

Shaun Tolson

Frank Vizard

CONTRIBUTING STYLISTS

Paul Frederick

Katie Mossman

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Colette De Barros

Jonathan Pozniak

VICE PRESIDENT OF NEW BUSINESS

Caren Kabot caren@luxurymagazine.com

ADVERTISING SALES

SOUTHEAST

Jana Robinson jana@robinsonmedia.net

Katie Darling katherine@robinsonmedia.net

SOUTHWEST

Lindsay Messina Diedra Pyle hello@fioraetravel.com

WEST COAST

Trica Baak Baak Media tb@baakmedia.com

DUBAI/UAE

Alexandra Young alex@konexinternational.com

ITALY

Filippo Silvera info@silvera.it

Dear Luxury Card Member:

LUXURY MAGAZINE® presents its Fall/Winter 2024 Issue with a focus on sports travel, food and design, plus holiday gift-giving ideas. From outdoor adventure in the mountains of Bhutan to mastering skiing, surfing, sailing, tennis and golf, readers will find a compilation of exciting destinations. Don’t miss the trending food festivals for gourmands on the go and new penthouses for the design-minded. Celebrate the holidays with 10 featured tech gadgets worth getting and giving. Check out the digital Gift Guide for an additional 100 indulgent must-buys of the season.

Supercars for the Sand Ferrari, Lamborghini and Porsche have engineered vehicles that perform at a high level even when the pavement ends. These are the radical supercar performance high-riders built for the nearest dirt, sand or snow rally stage.

Four Seasons of Adventure

Mountain towns are different from ski towns, though most have great skiing close at hand. They are centers of outdoor activity and adrenaline-filled adventure all year round, from hiking and cycling to rafting and climbing. Visit the best in Switzerland, France, Wyoming and Canada.

Golf Pro-Ams

Playing in a pro-am is the ultimate bucket-list experience for golfers, even more than teeing up at Pebble Beach or St. Andrews. Since pro-ams are the only opportunity for amateur enthusiasts to play under tournament conditions alongside a pro, the editors have curated a list of the best ones to join.

Discover top locales for active travel that inspire and delight.

Best regards,

Marina Kissam Vice President, Customer Experience

Produced exclusively for Luxury Card members.

What’s What

ART, CULTURE & DESIGN

Knowing the West: Visual Legacies of the American West featuring more than 100 artworks including textiles, baskets, paintings, pottery, sculpture, beadworks, saddles, and prints— celebrates the rich cultures that contributed to the complexity of the American West. At the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in Bentonville, Arkansas, through January 27, 2025. crystalbridges.org

Henry Moore, Mother and Child, 1978

Marc Chagall’s colorful, whimsical, and poetic pictorial works—traditional and avantgarde—focus on universal themes: motherhood, birth, death, and love. See Chagall at the Albertina Museum in Vienna through February 9, 2025. albertina.at

Georgia O’Keeffe and Henry Moore is a momentous show (over 150 works) where their masterpieces are shown side by side for the first time, and both their studios have been meticulously recreated. On at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts through January 20, 2025. mfa.org

Marjorie Merriweather Post (the Post cereal heiress) collected shells and shell-like objets d’art throughout her life (1887–1973). Fragile Beauty: The Art of the Ocean showcases Post’s elegant and timelesss collection. At Hillwood Estate, Museum & Gardens, Washington, D.C., through January 5, 2025. hillwoodmuseum.org

The Folger Shakespeare Library in Washington, D.C., reopens after an $80 million renovation and expansion that includes viewing galleries so visitors (not just scholars) can view the library’s treasures, including the First Folio, a collection of 36 of Shakespeare’s plays, published in 1623. folger.edu

There was a magical moment at the dawn of the Renaissance when Siena was the center of art in Italy. Siena: The Rise of Painting, 1300–1350 features more than 100 paintings, sculptures, metalworks, and textiles, at New York’s Metropolitan Museum through January 26, 2025. metmuseum.org

Highlights from a unique collection of trial proofs (most have never been exhibited until now) tell of Freud’s long collaboration with master printer Mark Balakjian. Lucian Freud’s Etchings: A Creative Collaboration is on at the V&A South Kensington through January 5, 2025. vam.ac.uk

A Wonderful World: The Louis Armstrong Musical opens November 11, 2024, at New York’s legendary Studio 54. With Tony Award winner James Monroe Iglehart in the starring role, the musical’s lyrics and melodies still speak to listeners after nearly 100 years. louisarmstrongmusical.com

Max Ernst (1891–1976) is known for genre-bending works that blur the lines between dreams and reality.

FOTOGAGA: Max Ernst and Photography: A Visit from the Würth Collection is the German painter and sculptor’s first exhibition considering intersections between his work and photography. At the Museum of Photography in Berlin through April 27, 2025. smb.museum 

Albert Bierstadt, Sierra Nevada Morning, 1870

Shakespeare’s First Folio, 1623

Max Ernst, The Chinese Nightingale, 1920 Courtesy Images,

Photo by Lloyd Wolf.

Top and bottom left:

HOTELS

Perched on a peninsula overlooking the blue waters of Lake Fuschl and the base of the Austrian Alps, Rosewood Schloss Fuschl opened in July following a two-year, top-tobottom restoration. Built in 1461 as an opulent hunting lodge for the Prince-Archbishops of Salzburg, the property now has 98 elegantly furnished guest rooms, including 42 suites and six chalets. Expect an eclectic mix of historic details and contemporary glamour. Guests can enjoy guided fishing excursions on the lake, forest foraging with an expert herbalist, and local-led cooking demonstrations in nearby alpine huts; complemented by a bespoke treatment at the Asaya Spa rooted in Austrian wellness philosophies. From $775; rosewoodhotels.com

The Potlatch Club in Governor’s Harbour, Eleuthera, Bahamas, feels like a friend’s oceanfront estate with an inviting pink-sand beach, a great chef, and 14 rooms decorated in a rattanand-white summer house style. Suites from $475; cottages from $650; four-bedroom villa from $2,500; thepotlatchclub.com

With remarkable views of the Pacific Ocean, adults-only Hamakua Hotel is dramatically perched on a 100-foot cliff on the Hāmākua Coast of Hawaii’s Big Island. The eight-room property is 20 minutes from Hilo, the island’s largest city. Fresh breakfast treats, sunset happy hour with craft cocktails and mocktails, and a sixcourse tasting menu (Thursday through Saturday) are included in the room rate. From $600; hamakuahotel.com

CENTRAL PERK IN LISBON

The phrase “hidden gem” is often overused, but it is so on point here. In Portugal’s capital, Valverde Hotel sits behind a discreet door off Avenida da Liberdade, not giving a hint of what’s to come. As you walk up the stairs, you are entering an oasis—a wood-paneled entry hall, a leafy courtyard and comfortable rooms in chic shades of melon and gray. The hotel’s newest section is brighter and lighter but maintains the residential aesthetic of the original. Rooms facing the street are surprisingly quiet. Throughout, happen upon private little nooks in which to sit with a coffee, a drink, or a good book. The pool offers another opportunity to relax. Don’t miss breakfast—in the dining room or outdoors. An excellent

selection of cheeses, fruits, and breads is accompanied by an extensive menu of anything you’d want—from avocado toast to a perfect soft-boiled egg. The hotel is ideally located among all the high-end shops—Gucci, Stella, Saint Laurent—on the “Fifth Avenue” of Lisbon. And it is walking distance to the seaside, the Barrio, and the district of museums and churches. Turn left out the door and jog down to the sea promenade (unless you prefer to work out in the small but well-equipped gym with windows and light) or turn right out of the hotel and walk up to the circle center where the hop-on/hop-off tour buses are located, as is Eduardo VII Park, the biggest park in central Lisbon with excellent views over the city. From $360; valverdehotel.com

Rosewood Schloss Fuschl

Valverde Hotel

The Potlatch Club

Courtesy Images, Clockwise

From Bottom Left: Rosewood Schloss Fuschl/Jonathan Maloney (2); Valverde Hotel/Jose Wong (3); The Potlatch Club/David Loftus

Medieval meets modern at Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay, a 12th-century abbey steeped in history and transformed into an enchanting hotel by the buzzy hospitality firm Paris Society, founded by French nightlife mogul Laurent de Gourcuff. Book one of the 146 glamorous guest rooms and suites, about an hour by car from Paris. abbayedesvauxdecernay.com

Renowned New Orleans hotelier and restaurateur

Robért LeBlanc opens The Celestine—10 bedrooms in a former 18th-century French Quarter residence. Antique finds, handmade furniture, bright wallpapers, and windows that open pair well with the vibrant, bustling Toulouse Street out

front, as well as the sanctuary of the private courtyard out back. From $500; thecelestinenola.com

Three’s a welcome crowd when it comes to English hospitality group The Pigs. The just-opened Pig in the Cotswolds (from $650; thepighotel.com) is a honey-hued, 17th-century gem tucked away in the village of Barnsley. Rooms range from extra-small cozy to a three-bedroom cottage. Autumn of 2025 will see the opening of The Pig on the Farm, set on 53 acres of pasture and arable land just outside Stratford-upon-Avon. In 2026, the franchise will welcome one of the most renowned and historic buildings on the border of Kent and East Sussex, The Pig at Groombridge Place.

IRELAND’S BLUE BOOK: A COLLECTION OF UNIQUE COUNTRY HOUSES, HISTORIC HOTELS, AND CASTLES

Seeking a highly vetted country house hotel? Consult Ireland’s Blue Book (irelandsblue-book.ie) for an intro to Cashel Palace Hotel (from $465; cashelpalacehotel .ie), a handsome Palladian manor with a Michelin-starred restaurant at the foot of the 12th-century ruin Rock of Cashel. For old-fashioned romance, choose Mount Juliet Estate (from $675, including breakfast and dinner; mountjuliet.ie), a wisteria-clad, 18th-century manor, with the Jack Nicklaus–designed parkland golf course and its own Michelin-starred restaurant (Lady Helen) in a

Wedgwood-pretty dining room. While staying at the 32-room Ballymaloe House (from $604, including breakfast and a fivecourse dinner; ballymaloe.ie), take a nearby cooking class with Darina Allen (the Julia Child of Ireland). Within a tiny 18th-century village rescued by the founder of Ryanair, Cliff at Lyons (from $425, including breakfast; cliffatlyons.ie) keeps light-filled, fire-warmed stone cottages with canopied fourposter beds. For unique selfcatering stays in lighthouses, castles, and other historic properties administered by the Irish Landmark Trust, visit irishlandmark.com. 

Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay

Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay Pig in the Cotswolds

Cashel Palace Hotel

Cliff at Lyons

Courtesy Images, Clockwise From Bottom Left: l’Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay/Billal Taright; l’Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay/Eric Martin; Black Tomato; Cliff at Lyons; The Pig in the Cotswolds/Jake

What’s What ADVENTURE & TRAVEL

Four Seasons Yachts (booking now/launching 2026) will explore more than 130 destinations across 30 countries and territories. Grand Caribbean Voyages highlights the dazzling nightlife of St. Barth’s, Martinique’s volcanic coral reefs, and St. Lucia’s Tobago Cays. Grand Mediterranean voyages (beginning March 2026) will make stops at the jewels of the Aegean—namely Mykonos and Santorini—but also explore under-the-radar islands.

From $19,900/suite/7 nights; fourseasonsyachts.com

Travel outfitter Black Tomato launches two new jet-setting adventures—Yellowstone and Ripley—inspired by the popular television and film series. Ripley’s Italy is a seven-night journey from Amalfi to Rome, including an evening tour of Rome in a vintage Fiat 500. Yellowstone is six nights of adventuring through Montana and Wyoming—staying at a luxurious base camp with horse whisperers and going

on sunset cattle drives. Yellowstone from $29,280/ person; Ripley from $14,396/ person; blacktomato.com

Take The Grandest Tour Jet Journey by Aman, for 16 guests who will visit six Aman properties. Explore modern and ancient Tokyo, the beaches of Vietnam, and the origins of Buddhism in Bhutan. Track tigers or wander the forts of India’s lost kingdoms. Enjoy the ancient Silk Road city of Samarkand and do a special day touchdown at the Taj Mahal. $188,888/person/21 days; aman.com

Bullo River Station (from $950/night, all-inclusive) in the East Kimberley region of Australia, a working cattle station with secret waterfalls, natural swimming pools, barramundi fishing, and 12 backcountry-chic guest rooms, has joined the prestigious Luxury Lodges of Australia . Other members include Southern

Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island and Capella Lodge on Lord Howe Island. luxurylodgesofaustralia.com.au

Tour specialist Abercrombie & Kent debuts a new voyage: Peru by River & Rail. Pure Amazon, the just-launched, 22-guest riverboat with panoramic windows, has a big wellness component. Passengers can disembark to kayak through winding, jungle-rimmed rivers or go on guided nature walks to spot sloths, monkeys, and brilliantly hued birds. Then, board the Andean Explorer train to visit the remote Raqch’i, a hidden Incan archaeological site more than 11,000 feet above sea level. From $19,995/person/14 days; abercrombiekent.com

Good news for those who never had the chance to fly Pan American World Airways—the iconic 20thcentury carrier is making a return next year with one special flight. The 12-day, privately chartered trip

includes stops along Pan Am’s original transatlantic routes. June 16–28 and June 27–July 9, 2025, from $65,500/person; criteriontravel.com/panam

The Soar and Explore package from Bella Coola Heli Sports and Maple Leaf Adventures allows powder hounds to board a private helicopter every morning in search of pristine, remote terrain. In the evening, skiers return to MV Cascadia, a 138-foot expedition catamaran for dinner and a soak in the hot tub on the top deck. Buyout rates (eight guests, single occupancy) from $204,000/ four nights, all-inclusive; bellacoolahelisports.com

Travel to remote waters with EYOS Expeditions on a naturethemed private charter super yacht research vessel (with scientists aboard) to study the rainforest, discover new whale species, count sea turtles, and take plenty of time to hike, dive, swim, and sun. eyos-expeditions.com

Four Seasons Yachts Black Tomato’s Yellowstone

Bella Coola Heli Sports

Just in time for New Zealand’s summer months, Te Arai Links (two pure links golf courses designed by Tom Doak and the other by Bill Coore & Ben Crenshaw) has opened. Pair golf games with strolls down whitesand surf beaches and heli-tours to nearby wineries. tearai.com

CIVANA Wellness Resort & Spa outside Scottsdale, Arizona, honors the benefits of deep sleep with the launch of its Sleep Rooms for a restful stay—complete with wind-down rituals, meditation, and improveyour-mood food. The resort also offers a wide range of fitness and wellness programming, as well as relaxation, aqua therapy, and spa treatments. civanacarefree.com

Little Palm Island Resort & Spa in Little Torch Key, Florida, connects guests with a Celestial Concierge for a three-night stay in a suite that includes a high-tech telescope, a two-hour private yacht tour that comes with a constellation map, and a Van Cleef & Arpels Zodiac necklace. $50,000; littlepalmisland.com

OLD ENGLISH JAUNT

Bath, England, in winter is beautiful, uncrowded, and less than two hours from London’s Paddington Station. Jane Austen devotees and fans of the Netflix hit Bridgerton will feel right at home walking pretty streets (some still cobblestone), admiring Georgian architecture, and stopping for tea at Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House (sallylunns.co.uk).

Climb 212 steps to the top of Bath Abbey’s tower for panoramic views of the town and surrounding countryside. Charles Dickens and Jane Austen enjoyed afternoon tea in the Georgian Pump Room (thepumproombath.co.uk), and you can too. You can’t come to Bath and not have

a bath at Thermae Bath Spa (thermaebathspa .com), fed by the natural thermal waters that the ancient Romans once bathed in. Check into the Hotel Indigo Bath (from $200; bath.hotelindigo .com), a row of elegant, honey-colored townhouses dating to 1740. The hotel’s highly original decor pays tribute to the city’s heritage, but in a quirky, modern way. Part of the hotel, The Elder restaurant and bar are independently owned and run by multi-awardwinning restaurateur Mike Robinson. The menu is all about sustainability, seasonality, and locally sourced, wild produce and the vibe is English country house. visitbath.co.uk

VISIT SLOVENIA

Slovenia is a tiny, little-known treasure of great natural beauty. Nearly half of the country is covered in pristine forest, and snow-covered Alps tower over picture-book towns. You can go Alpine skiing in winter or fishing for Danube salmon in turquoisegreen glacial streams in summer. Autumn is all about the grape harvest in Slovenia’s three, still-a-bit-secret wine regions.

Explore Postojna Cave and its incredible, 15-mile network of karst galleries and halls. Drive to the country’s Venetian-style coastline, stopping to meander the cobblestone streets of the ancient town of Piran. Visit Lipica, the 440-year-old Lipizzaner stud farm. Take a boat to the medieval church on an island in Lake Bled. Stop in one of the little cafés for a slice

of the famous Bled cream cake. Stroll the charming riverfront streets of fairy-tale Ljubljana. Travel with one of Abercrombie & Kent’s private group journeys (from $5,495/person/five days; abercrombiekent.com) or rent a car and travel on your own. The roads are good, and you could drive across the country (east to west) in about five hours, but why hurry? slovenia.info 

—Irene Rawlings

CIVANA Wellness Resort & Spa

FROM LONDON WITH LOVE

Globetrotting fashion icon Glenda Bailey checks into the new Raffles at the OWO.

Lying in bed at Raffles London at the OWO hotel, most guests will not be thinking about the building’s history as the Old War Office, but about how comfortable they feel. No expense was spared by the Hinduja Group in the $1.76 billion renovation of this palatial property. It took seven years to complete and now houses 120 rooms and suites. Its heritage has been respectfully restored with interior design by the late Thierry Despont. Residing majestically on Whitehall, the building overlooks the Horse Guards (protecting the official entrance to Buckingham Palace), looks out to Big Ben, and is walking distance from No. 10 Downing Street.

You would not expect anything less than Courtneys London’s most luxurious hotel with a license to thrill.

The most famous suite is where Winston Churchill ran the Second World War, and it still keeps his original desk from the time. Most of the successful spies were women, and several of the suites are named after them. The most opulent is the Christine Granville Suite (she was rumored to have been Churchill’s favorite). A Polish aristocrat, Krystyna Skarbek, used to ski across the mountains into Allied territory, hiding microfilm containing secrets in

her gloves. She had her cyanide capsules stitched into the hem of her skirt.

It is easy to be seduced by the Granville Suite with its copper bath, antique fireplaces, and four-poster bed. You will want to linger in the grandeur of the woodpaneled rooms. For those with a more modest budget, there are bright, spacious rooms and suites with marble bathrooms and underfloor heating. Guests are treated to exclusive toiletries crafted by La Bottega in Italy and named after the year the building was completed, 1906. The fragrance is an intoxicating combination of vetiver, sandalwood, and neroli.

The pampering continues at the Guerlain Spa, where you can enjoy a massage curated to your every need. The impressive gym and the lavish swimming pool are not to be missed.

You don’t have to wear a trench and sunglasses to stay here. There has been enough spying in this establishment to last a lifetime. Even the Spy Bar is hidden away in the basement, with no signage. Let’s not forget Ian Fleming worked here while it was still the War Office. Many of the Bond films were shot inside these hallowed halls. The staff could have been trained by “M,” as they are always in evidence, but at a discreet distance, to ensure you have

Courtesy Raffles London at The OWO/John Athimaritis (8)

everything you need during your stay.

The storied past is ever present in the hotel, but staying here makes you feel you want to create your own history.

The army may have marched on its stomach, so it is no surprise there are nine restaurants and three bars in Raffles OWO London. Chef Mauro Colagreco’s masterminded Saison and his own fine dining establishment that bears his name. Saison is situated in the more relaxed conservatory setting inspired by the Riviera. It offers all-day dining and is the place for simple, local ingredients refreshingly prepared. The pea soup with Cornish crab and British burrata (yes, you did read this correctly) is accompanied by peas and hazelnuts, which both proved to be winners. The lobster pasta is eye-wateringly delicious. Flavors of the month season the menu and make this a restaurant you’ll be happy to visit all year.

For more formal occasions, try Mauro Colagreco’s restaurant, overseen by Head Chef Leonel Aguirre. There is a tasting menu and à la carte options. Mauro Colagreco has received three Michelin stars for his restaurant Mirazur in Menton, France. He is renowned for flavorful and colorful produce—which he displays for your delectation. It is rare to be up close and personal with the fresh greens in a fine-dining restaurant before they are cooked. Whilst it is not obligatory to be formally introduced to a lettuce, it is good to know it was grown in Elephant

and Castle, only minutes away. Making the most of these humble ingredients and elevating them to star status on the menu is Chef Mauro’s religion. Carrots (sourced from Organic Dan from Lancashire) are highlighted rather than mere accompaniments of the lobster. Cauliflower is bathed with cockle sauce and turbot, and beetroot, salt baked, is topped with caviar cream. These are excellent examples of the restaurant’s homage to vegetables. All provide a feast for the eyes and appetite. The wine list is equally harmonious.

It is to the staff’s credit that the impression is not pretentious. They have an obvious pride in their work. You are lovingly presented with a printed poem at the beginning of the meal, and postcards of botanical illustrations, like the ones hanging on the walls, accompany each course.

Every consideration is given to make you feel special and make this a memorable and delicious experience. Eating here is like walking in a British garden of heavenly delights.

—Glenda Bailey

Tip: The Drawing Room is one of the few restaurants that offers a sumptuous afternoon tea, whilst your guest can devour fish and chips. All this with a view of the Household Cavalry. Second Tip: Take a guided tour to hear about the mystery and intrigue of the building’s past when it was the Old War Office. 

THE KELP KEEPER

Belmond’s Mount Nelson hotel in Cape Town offers a fresh perspective on seaweed with a new undersea safari.

South African marine biologist Justin Blake wishes everyone loved kelp forests the way he does, but he understands the trepidation. “It’s a bit eerie,” he admits, “even a bit creepy when it touches or bumps into you.”

Clients who book his Marine Biologist for a Day expedition, available exclusively through Cape Town’s Mount Nelson, a Belmond Hotel, join Blake on a pontoon kitted out with snorkeling gear, wet suits, hot drinks, and snacks, plus a big tub of warm fresh water that helps bring feeling back into limbs that have been exposed to the icy cold surf for periods of 15 minutes or longer.

Blake’s aim on his expeditions is to replace kelp’s reputation of trepidation with one of environmental marvel. He introduces visitors to the Great African Seaforest, which is one of the world’s most productive and diverse marine ecosystems. Hugging the coast from Cape Town up through Namibia, this underwater jungle is home to millions of creatures, including many fish species that aren’t found anywhere else on the planet.

Kelp—which most people know by its street name, seaweed—is a long, flat algae plant with brown and green leaves that look like ribbons and are attached to a stem-like

structure called a stipe. It can stretch to 30 feet high and grows quickly (up to 18 inches a day) in dense groupings, like trees in a forest. Another forest-like feature: a canopy at the top of these towers provides food and shelter for thousands of fish and marine mammals. And while the leaves may not change color, kelp is affected by seasonal weather and can be damaged and dislodged by storms, requiring a period of new growth.

At the moment, Blake is one of a few people in the world who have dedicated themselves to studying and preserving this exceptional ecosystem. Kelp forests play a crucial role

Courtesy Images Clockwise

From Top: Mount Nelson, a Belmond Hotel/Steve Benjamin (4); Mount Nelson, a Belmond Hotel/Justin Blake (3)

in nutrient cycling and carbon sequestration, which reduces the amount of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere and can help mitigate climate change. A strong kelp presence offers protection against storm surges and coastal erosion by absorbing the brunt of the force of ocean swells. And research published last year found that underwater forests are far more extensive than previously realized—covering about 2.75 million square miles, an area about the same size as the Amazon rain forest basin and twice as large as India.

It’s perhaps not surprising that it has taken so long for the mysterious kelp forest to be recognized as a playground for adventurers and tourists. While South Africa’s Atlantic coastline is stunning, the water is freezing cold year-round. And unlike the serene, tropical blue waters of the Maldives or Philippines that invite swimmers to dive right in and explore, the seas here are rough and murky, thanks to all that kelp.

In My Octopus Teacher, the Oscar-winning, pandemic-era documentary about Craig Foster, the filmmaker befriends an octopus living in a South African kelp forest. Locked-in viewers around the world saw in the film how

mesmerizing swimming within these dark swirling masses can be. However, not even years of experience diving and snorkeling coral reefs and shipwrecks is full preparation for an underwater Cape kelp tour.

The challenge begins with the boat ride through often roiling swells toward the protected coves where Blake prefers to drop anchor. It’s not unusual to see whales and penguins en route, but the real up-close viewing starts at the top of the canopy, as bodies adjust to the shocking cold and the limited visibility. Soon, physical discomfort ebbs as the wonders of nature take over.

Venturing down the massive vines and through the kelp gardens and sea caves, divers share space with the blue-gray Hottentot seabream, southern mullet, and strepie that live in the forest year-round, while seasonal visitors such as giant yellowtail and Cape salmon can also be seen.

One reason for starting in the middle of the forest, rather than the shore, is to put some distance between people and the predators who tend to lurk on the outskirts. While the great whites have moved beyond the waters of the Western Cape, several kinds of stingrays

and a variety of sharks stalk these waters, including the puffadder shy shark, as well as the pajama sharks that played the villain in My Octopus Teacher. First-time kelp explorers are much more likely to spot those harmless striped “catsharks” than the elusive octopus, which are abundant but tend to hide under rocks and leaves and can be difficult for an untrained eye to see.

Blake, who is known as the Shark Scientist by his colleagues and the crews of the underwater documentary films that he has helped produce, says most first-time kelp swimmers find the experience to be magical. “The process of jumping in is completely meditative,” Blake says. “Once you’re comfortable, curiosity takes over.”

Blake and his partners at the Mount Nelson Hotel hope that offering this immersive exposure to marine ecosystems will foster a deeper connection between humans and the ocean, helping guests discover the riches of the local coastline while also gaining a deeper understanding of the need to protect our shared environment and fund scientific discovery. belmond.com; rockhopper.co.za u —Colleen Curtis

All in the Timing

Whether it’s being worn for flying, racing, diving, or dressing up, the chronograph evokes style and substance.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

JONATHAN POZNIAK MARKET EDITOR PAUL FREDERICK

vision for refined

in Midtown Manhattan—520 Fifth Avenue soars 1,000 feet above the world’s most

Designed by acclaimed architecture firm Kohn Pedersen Fox Associates, with interiors by AD100 designer Charles & Co, this boutique skyscraper features just 100 residences with iconic Manhattan skyline views stretching from river to river and beyond. Featuring a spectacular 88th-floor amenity suite and world-class hospitality, 520 Fifth Avenue is a new way to live at the center of the center of New York City.

Haute Metals

Can’t decide what you like best? Mix multitone combinations of yellow, rose, and white gold; bronze, and platinum for an effortlessly modern look.

MARKET EDITOR PAUL FREDERICK

Coucher du Soleil cuff in rose gold and bronze with diamonds, $46,800; vhernier.com

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JONATHAN POZNIAK

VHERNIER

OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 38mm in steel and Sedna™ gold, $22,700; omegawatches.com

NIKOS KOULIS Together cuff in yellow and white gold with diamonds, $13,950; nikoskoulis.com

CHANEL FINE JEWELRY

Coco Crush Toi et Moi ring in beige and white gold with diamonds, $5,700; chanel.com

TIFFANY & CO. Lock bangle in yellow and white gold with diamonds, $16,000; tiffany.com

VERDURA Twisted band ring in platinum and yellow gold with diamonds, $15,950; verdura.com

POMELLATO Iconica bracelet in rose, yellow, and rhodiumplated white gold, $24,000; pomellato.com

DAVID YURMAN Mercer

Melange Link drop earrings in sterling silver and rose gold with diamonds, $6,500; davidyurman.com

SHAUN TOLSON

1. FOR MINIMALIST TECHIES

For those who bristle at the thought of wearing a body-tracking device on their wrist, the Samsung Galaxy Ring, crafted from titanium and available in three scratch-resistant finishes (silver, gold, and black), is more understated. Utilizing three sensors, the ring can monitor heart health, as well as track several fitness and sleep metrics. Through its app and Galaxy AI, the ring can also suggest lifestyle tips that will help improve the wearer’s quality of sleep. $400; samsung.com

2. FOR COOL COMMUTERS

Looking like it just rolled off the set of Back to the Future Part II, the Infinite Machine P1 electric scooter boldly showcases the type of sleek, angular design that’s possible without a traditional combustion engine. A 6-kW motor propels the P1 up to 35 mph; however, a user’s motorcycle license can unlock a software upgrade that increases its top speed to 55 mph. GPS tracking and an app that allows users to remotely lock, unlock, and immobilize their P1 from anywhere, make this the perfect vehicle for inner-city commutes. $10,000; infinitemachine.com

3. FOR THRILL SEEKERS

At 50 pounds, the Awake RÄVIK 3 electric surfboard brings significantly more heft to the water than a traditional board, but it’s worth it, since the 11-kW motor and linear jet system make it possible to surf in any water condition. Constructed from a carbon-fiber composite with a foam core, this selfpropelled board is stable and durable; it can reach top speeds of 36 mph; accelerates to 30 mph in only 4 seconds; and its V-bottom shape and medium tail make for easy carving. From $11,900; awakeboards.us

4. FOR THE ALLERGY PRONE

Clean living becomes second nature with a Coway Airmega AP-1512HH Mighty air purifier running at home. Capable of refreshing the environment of a more-than-1,700-square-foot living space every hour, the device is equipped with three distinct filters that capture everything from dust and pet hair to unpleasant food smells, volatile organic compounds, and ultra-fine particles such as viruses and bacteria. That includes pollen and mold too, which means the Airmega Mighty air purifier can be a difference-maker for those who suffer from seasonal allergies. Best of all, the device’s fan automatically stops running when no pollution is detected for 30 minutes. $240; cowaymega.com

5. FOR REMOTE WORKERS

To effectively work from home, or anywhere, reach for the Arlo Skye Lap Desk. Equipped with a microbead cushion that hugs your lap, the 19-inch portable desk features a phone mount and a built-in storage tray that can hold a 14-inch laptop, tablet, power cables, and other accessories. In other words, it comfortably transports all the necessary components of your desk job to wherever you need them. $125; arloskye.com

6. FOR STRESS CASES

Getting a good night’s rest is often harder than it sounds. Enter the Apollo Wearable for stress management. Developed in tandem with physicians and neuroscientists, this device, which is worn on the wrist, emits vibrations that can influence your body’s nervous system. Described by the brand as “music your body can feel,” these vibrations can be programmed to produce a wide-ranging set of responses. Higher vibrations can improve energy levels and focus, while lower vibrations reduce stress, promote relaxation, and can assist in better (and quicker) sleep. $350; apolloneuro.com

7. FOR AUDIOPHILES

The latest Beats Pill wireless speaker doesn’t look much different than its predecessor; however, this upgraded Pill boasts a larger racetrack woofer that incorporates innovative ridges and contours to minimize low-end distortion. When combined with an enhanced tweeter that’s housed separately for extra stability, the result is a spectrum of powerful, room-filling sound that incorporates crisp highs; rich, mid-range tones; and a thumping deep base. Better still, two Pills can be paired together, either in amplify mode to bolster the overall sound or in stereo mode, with a dedicated left/right output. $150; beatsbydre.com

8.

FOR ENDURANCE TRAINERS

Whether you’re aiming to complete your first long-distance race or striving to set a new PR, a key to success is proper breathing, and the Airofit Pro 2.0 Breathing Trainer can help. The device not only measures your baseline lung capacity (including inspiratory and expiratory strength), but through the use of algorithmbacked breathing exercises and training programs—all designed in collaboration with breathing experts and athletes—it improves every breath you take. $350; airofit.com

9. FOR SERIOUS ATHLETES

Ice baths and cold plunges are known to boost the body’s circulatory system and aid in faster muscular recovery. With the Monk Smart Ice Bath—a compact, 300-liter, self-cleaning cold tank that keeps water regulated at temperatures as brisk as 37 degrees Fahrenheit—an app can tailor usage suggestions for best results. You can access guidance from a cold-water therapy coach as well as relaxing soundscapes and invigorating breathwork guides. $8,500; discovermonk.com

10.

FOR CREATIVE MIXOLOGISTS

Venture into any craft cocktail bar and you’re likely to find at least one smoked beverage on the menu. Bring home the trend with the Aged & Charred Cocktail Smoker Kit, comprising an ingenious smoking lid that covers most glasses, a butane torch, and four wood chip varieties for varying flavor profiles—oak, apple, hickory, and cherry (with several others available for purchase separately). $85; agedandcharred.com u

DESIGN

Statement Pieces

Los Angeles–based Formed For has custom sculpture design down to a fine art.

BY JORGE S. ARANGO

Kelley Anderson and Gavin Brodin were working on a design project when an art consultant sent them a 50-page presentation of artworks. Gavin, who was juggling a lot at the time, asked Kelley to select her top 20 pieces. Separately, while on a trip, he chose his 20 favorite pieces. When they compared notes, says Gavin, “We had picked the same 20 works! We have the exact same aesthetic for art.”

The couple, now married, channels their shared aesthetic via Formed For, their 2-yearold, Los Angeles–based custom sculpture firm that has quickly become a reliable source for architects, landscape architects, and designers seeking commissions for residential, institutional, and hospitality projects around the world. The idea for the company began, in part, during the decade that Kelley ran Art Botanica, where, she says, “I created living walls and botanical installations,” including a moss sculpture for Art Basel. Gavin, meanwhile, had established a design-build firm for luxury clients, having started in the business when he was 15 selling fabric by

the yard at his father’s London shop. One of the first sculptures to come out of their partnership was an enormous piece for Burning Man.

Today, Formed For has a showroom that stocks many sculptures created using Gravity Sketch, a 3D modeling program, as well as other technologies, which they then fabricate at ateliers and foundries around the world.

“We design and work on every sculpture together,” says Kelley. Each is produced in a limited edition of 33, though within the edition individual sculptures can be upscaled or downscaled or executed in stainless steel, marble, Corten steel, painted steel, or bronze. They also have a completely bespoke program for one-off commissions.

“The beauty of our approach,” says Gavin, “is that we work alongside the client so that our sculptures have meaning and a story that’s relevant to them and work with the aesthetic of the property.” With an established artist, adds Kelley, “the client doesn’t often have a lot of say, and the commission might come with many conditions,” such as how it should or should not age, or site specificity that

disallows relocation if they move (cue Richard Serra’s Tilted Arc). It can take a long time to get the final sculpture, whereas delivery and installation from Formed For averages 16 to 18 weeks. There is also the question of price.

“It’s a better deal,” explains Gavin, who says their sculptures average between $20,000 and $125,000. Something at the higher end of Formed For’s works “would sell for $600,000 in a gallery.” Formed For prides itself on using the highest-quality materials. For instance, they work with 3-millimeter- to 8-millimeter-thick bronze and stainless steel (316L true marine grade) and mirror polish it to a level eight finish (the highest possible mirror polishing). Their Corten is .75-inches thick and solid.

The couple receives commissions mostly through word of mouth and Instagram. There is a website, but it doesn’t show the complete inventory or capabilities of the firm. Yet they’re so busy that Kelley shuttered Art Botanica and Gavin intends to scale back his firm within the year. “Sculpture is a full-time business,” he says. “If we could design sculpture every week and not have a business to run, that’s what we’d do. It’s a lot of fun.” formedfor.com u

Cheat Sheet

LOS ANGELES

To understand Los Angeles is to know its evolving neighborhoods. Old friends of the City of Angels count on Beverly Hills, West Hollywood, and Santa Monica as convenient home bases. But there’s been a vibe shift around the major retail centers from the 3rd Street Promenade to Rodeo Drive. New hot spots from Frogtown to Inglewood have emerged across the city; there’s serious art, inventive food, design-forward hotels, and a stunning new stadium earmarked to be the site of the 2028 Summer Olympics opening ceremony. Plus you can rely on everyone’s favorite thing about Southern California: year-round sunshine.

BY TANVI CHHEDA

SLEEP

Santa Monica Proper

Part of designer Kelly Wearstler’s Proper Hotels portfolio, Santa Monica Proper showcases stunning interiors with a laid-back, beachy feel perfectly in tune with its coastal locale. The rooms (267 in total) are outfitted with upholstered, semicircle-shaped headboards; handwoven rugs; patterned wallpaper; and travertine tile bath floors. Outdoors, olive and palm trees wall in the urban oasis. Book holistic, Ayurveda-based treatments at the Surya Spa. The pièce de résistance

is the rooftop restaurant and bar, Calabra, where the shareable menu features herbed labneh, fire-roasted baba ganoush, and harissa mapleglazed Brussels sprouts with Aleppo pepper and almonds. properhotel.com

Pendry West Hollywood

Along iconic Sunset Boulevard, overlooking the Hollywood Hills, the 149-room Pendry draws cues from both California modernism and 1950s glamour. Swathed in moody blues and mustard yellows, rooms (designed by Swedish architect Martin Brudnizki) feel edgy yet timeless, with velvet chaises, crystal armories, hardwood floors, and Carrara marble baths. The property’s nearly 100-piece art collection includes eye-catching works such as a stainless-steel tree sculpture with mother-of-pearl leaves and Swarovski crystals at the front entrance, and a 70-inchdiameter icosahedron sculpture by Anthony James in the lobby. Don’t miss the see-and-beseen rooftop restaurant Merois, a French-Asian eatery from chef Wolfgang Puck. pendry.com

Conrad Los Angeles

Opened two years ago as part of downtown LA’s Frank Gehry–designed Grand complex, the 305room Conrad boasts an enviable location, within blocks of the Walt Disney Concert Hall and The Broad museum. Minimalist rooms and suites are bright, with floor-to-ceiling windows, wood paneling, and soaking tubs, but you’ll likely be spending most of your time at the tiled, indooroutdoor lobby bar, The Beaudry Room (order the Shiso Spicy Margarita, made with tequila, shiso leaf, and serrano peppers), and restaurants including chef José Andrés’ San Laurel. Even if

you don’t stay overnight, the 7,000-square-foot spa, with an infrared sauna and recovery cabin (where guests don compression boots to boost circulation), is worth a visit. hilton.com

Calamigos Guest Ranch

A hand-poured candle and bottle of red wine (made with grapes grown on-site) await guests in their bungalows at Calamigos. Local touches like these make the 250-acre property, set within the canyons of Malibu and studded with live oaks, stand out amid the sea of Southern California resorts. A world away from LA’s traffic and hustle, the former ranch features 55 suites, bungalows, and cottages decorated in white, reclaimed wood, and other calming, natural materials. Guests enjoy multiple pools, pickleball courts, The Ranch Club restaurant, and a spa and fitness center. Venture off-site to the resort’s private beach club, or go horseback riding or take guided hikes in the Santa Monica Mountains. The property introduced a membership program last year, allowing repeat guests access to the grounds and facilities, as well as year-round programming. calamigos.com

Conrad Los Angeles

Santa Monica Proper

Calamigos Guest Ranch

EAT & DRINK

Mélisse and Citrin

Longtime chef and Los Angeles native Josiah Citrin’s Michelin-starred Mélisse was at the top of every “Where to Eat in LA” list for two decades. That fine dining iteration of the restaurant shuttered in 2019, only to be reopened two years later as new sister concepts, including the 14seat, open-kitchen, serious-but-not-stuffy Mélisse, which presents 18 courses of California cuisine (with plenty of French and Asian flair). Adjoining Citrin (with its own entrance and kitchen) offers a large bar and more options, coupling quality with approachability on its à la carte and prix fixe menus. By now both eateries have been awarded those coveted stars. citrinandmelisse.com

Loreto

Baroo

From husband-and-wife duo Kwang Uh and Mina Park, Baroo returns in its grown-up avatar with a new space in the Arts District, after closing its original East Hollywood location years ago. A modern Korean tasting menu, employing fermentation and plenty of creativity, is the singular offering. The culinary odyssey includes dishes such as Hokkaido scallop with minari (Japanese parsley), gim (seaweed), and rice puff; and braised black cod with lemongrass and buttermilk. Finish with guava panna cotta with sweet potato ice cream, rose, and candied walnuts. baroolosangeles.com

Loreto

It’s no coincidence that Loreto (from the folks behind the Arts District’s LA Cha Cha Chá) takes its name from the where-thedesert-meets-the-sea town on Mexico’s west coast; it’s a geography that LA shares and understands well. The gilded, midcentury modern interior of the former

warehouse in Frogtown gives way to a menu focused on all manner of Mexican seafood: tostadas, ceviche, zarandeado (grilled fish). Order the aguachile with shrimp, serrano, cucumber, and lemon; papaya ceviche with basil and Thai chilies; and tostada jurel with mint, jicama, English peas, and whipped feta. loreto.la

Uchi

The latest in LA’s wave of Japanese restaurants, Uchi proudly identifies itself as nontraditional Japanese fare, to be clear. Founded by James Beard Award–winning chef Tyson Cole in Austin and now with several locations across the United States (Denver, Miami, Houston), the LA outpost takes full advantage of the regional bounty, imparting a market-driven California spin to nearly every dish. Think oysters with blueberry and yuzu; heirloom tomato with strawberry and tofu; tuna with ají amarillo, blood orange, and pumpkin seed; and mushroom with rice and black vinegar. For the finale: fried milk ice cream. uchirestaurants.com 

Mélisse and Citrin Baroo

Loreto

Uchi

SEE & DO

Art Scene

From the 2019 arrival of the Frieze art fair to numerous East Coast galleries opening doors in Los Angeles to ambitious museum expansions, the art scene here has never been more dynamic. Big names such as David Zwirner, Marian Goodman, and Jeffrey Deitch have all opened galleries in recent years. The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) has been in the throes of big plans, with a new building designed by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Peter Zumthor for its permanent collection that is due to debut in 2025. Organized by London-based Frieze magazine, the now annual winter fair brings the international spotlight to town, showcasing galleries and artists from around the world.

Academy Museum of Motion Pictures

After enduring its fair share of stops and starts, the Renzo Piano–designed $482 million Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, dedicated to the magic of moviemaking, opened in 2021 with several floors of gallery space, a 952-seat theater, and screens playing movie clips at every turn. Comprising two connected buildings (one of which is a glass sphere with a retractable roof), the museum sits

like a bubble at the intersection of Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard, adjacent to LACMA. Ogle historic pieces such as Dorothy’s ruby red sequined slippers and Jaws’ Bruce, the fear-inducing, 25-foot-long mechanical great white shark hanging from the ceiling. Admire other artifacts from the 13-million-piece collection before taking in views of the iconic Hollywood sign and surrounding hills from the Dolby Family Terrace. academymuseum.org

SoFi Stadium Tour

The home of the Los Angeles Rams and the Los Angeles Chargers, the state-ofthe-art, 70,000-seat SoFi Stadium and surrounding 2.5-acre plaza, owned by sports tycoon Stan Kroenke, is nothing short of an architectural marvel. While football games and concerts held here are a sight to behold in their own right, the 60-minute guided facility tour is a memorable overview, giving guests access to the field and locker rooms. You’ll also learn about the stadium’s notable sustainability efforts, including native plants and an artificial lake built to collect rainwater. In August the 18,000-seat Intuit Dome—the new home of the Los Angeles Clippers and venue for LA28 basketball— debuted next door. sofistadium.com u

Frieze fair at LACMA

Academy Museum of Motion Pictures SoFi Stadium

LACMA

Academy Museum of Motion Pictures

THE ULTIMATE PEACE OF MIND FOR TRAVELERS

As a MedjetAssist member, if you are hospitalized domestically or internationally, 150 miles or more from your primary residence, Medjet will arrange medical transfer to the hospital of your choice at home, regardless of “medical necessity” (a caveat in most travel insurance products). MedjetHorizon adds an unprecedented suite of travel security and crisis response benefits. As our fastest growing membership, MedjetHorizon includes access to a 24/7 crisis response line, and assistance for a wide variety of safety threats such as terrorism, political threat, violent crime, disappearance, kidnap for ransom, natural disaster and more.

Supercars for the Sand

They’re all about fun, fun, fun among the dunes.

BY MARK HACKING

In 1964, an inventor named Bruce Meyers popularized a different kind of vehicle, one that emerged from California’s rabid automotive enthusiast scene and its beach culture. For its prowess on sand, the ride was dubbed the dune buggy.

“Dune buggies have a message: fun,” the late Meyers said at the time. “They’re playful to drive and should look like it.”

The same can be said of these three modern vehicles that also deliver performance and amusement both on and off road. They are more expensive than any dune buggy in history and perform at a much higher level. The common thread: It’s still all about the fun. 

Porsche 911 Dakar

PORSCHE 911 DAKAR

Upon first glance, the Porsche 911 Dakar looks like a bit of a poseur. This is especially true when the optional Rallye Design Package, with its racing stripes and decals with catchphrases, is added into the mix. But this Porsche also comes equipped with an authentic, motorsport-inspired backstory.

In 1984, the enthusiast brand secured its first overall victory in the Paris–Dakar Rally, and the car that took the honors was a heavily modified version of the 911, the Porsche 953. Now, over 40 years later, there’s a new model inspired by the infamous rally, a different kind of Porsche that’s capable of cresting the nearest sand dune at a high rate of knots.

Based on the Porsche 911 Carrera 4 GTS, the 911 Dakar is powered by a twin-turbocharged 3.0-liter flat-six cylinder engine that creates 473 hp and 420 lb-ft of torque. This level of output ensures a healthy degree of acceleration, regardless of the environment: 60 mph appears in a scant three seconds.

The 911 Dakar also showcases an advanced all-wheel-drive system, aided by an active torque vectoring system and traction control to expertly manage the amount of torque sent to each wheel. Its dynamic chassis control and active anti-roll bars adjust to varying terrain and ensure tire traction is always at its peak. The supercar also features two special drive modes: Rallye and Offroad. As the names suggest, these are engineered to ensure the 911 Dakar can handle the trickiest of driving conditions.

Lastly, the Porsche has an added 4.5 inches of ground clearance over the Carrera 4 GTS and a suspension system that can rise another inch. These measures are taken all in the name of clearing obstacles—on the road or off.

The Porsche 911 Dakar is not the fastest version of the 911 out there, but it just may be the best joy ride of all. From $222,000; porsche.com

FERRARI PUROSANGUE

On the Ferrari website landing page, there is no tab labeled “SUVs,” “crossovers,” or even “utility vehicles.” There is, however, a “sports cars” tab, and under this designation you’ll find information on high-performance models such as the Roma, the 296 GTB, and the 12Cilindri. You can also learn about the Ferrari Purosangue, the completely unique vehicle that Ferrari refuses to call an SUV.

Fair point: It’s really more of a high-riding grand tourer than a sport utility vehicle. This is not your usual coupe-shaped SUV, nor is it the typical tall wagon type of SUV. Instead, it’s a design that is unlike anything else on the road today, a shape that cuts through a largely mundane motoring landscape. The first four-door, four-seat Ferrari ever produced, there are two distinct elements to the Purosangue shape.

The lower portion, clad in black, incorporates sections of the front of the vehicle, the sides, the wheel arches, and the rear diffuser; it’s described as the “technical underbody.” The upper body is where the shape of the Purosangue gains more prominence, its flowing design appearing to float above the black underbody, making it resemble a true GT car. The pinnacle of achievement in the design, the forwardopening rear coach doors allow for easy access to a real rear seat big enough for two adult passengers.

The Purosangue is powered by the Italian carmaker’s familiar 6.5-liter naturally aspirated V12, which generates 715 hp and 528 lb-ft of torque. This engine is mounted toward the middle of the vehicle, while the transmission, an 8-speed, dual-clutch automatic, is positioned at the back. These decisions ensure this Ferrari handles like a Ferrari.

The performance is there, as well. The Purosangue can sprint to 60 mph in just 3.2 seconds, while top speed rings in at an eye-watering 193 mph. For those times when the pavement ends, the Ferrari counters with a full-time, all-wheel-drive system, torque vectoring at the front axle, an electronic differential at the back, and fully independent four-wheel steering.

Any ripples in the road (or off the road) are handled by an active suspension system that keeps the tires in perpetual contact for optimum cornering and control. All these systems are so advanced and brilliantly integrated, the Purosangue appears to know when the driver is going to make an error in judgment before the decision is even considered.

Be forewarned—the waiting list to receive one is long, arguably because it’s the perfect Ferrari for all seasons and for almost any reason. From $423,685; ferrari.com 

LAMBORGHINI HURACÁN STERRATO

The baby bull is stampeding toward the sunset; the nominal, entry-level supercar for the Lamborghini brand, the Huracán, retires by the end of this year. One last hurrah before the music fades away is the outrageous Sterrato, an off-road-ready spin-off from a supercar brand that knows its way around the desert.

From 1986 to 1993, Lamborghini produced the LM002, an SUV intended for oil production companies and military personnel. The brutish vehicle was also modified for rally races but did not appear in competitions at the highest level. Instead, it became a niche utility vehicle for those seeking something different. The Italian firm followed up with the Urus, introduced in 2017, which brought supercar performance to the SUV set.

The Huracán Sterrato is not like the LM002 or the Urus—it’s a supercar engineered for speed both on the pavement and off. Powered by a naturally aspirated 5.2-liter V10 engine, the Sterrato also features a 7-speed dual-clutch transmission and an all-wheel-drive system that intuitively shuttles more torque to the wheels with the most traction.

Engineered for some fairly serious off-road adventures, this Lamborghini also has 6.73 inches of total ground clearance, a softer suspension system for absorbing bigger bumps, and custom Bridgestone all-terrain tires that are rated to travel up to 186 mph. This may be a lower top speed than other Lamborghini models, but the 602-hp Sterrato is still capable of rocketing to 60 mph in 3.4 seconds.

All things considered, the Lamborghini Huracán Sterrato is an inspired combination of sheer speed and significant all-road capability. You’ll need to act fast before this Lamborghini accelerates past the vanishing point. From $273,175; lamborghini.com u

Latin Luxe

New south-of-the-border residential typologies range from urban penthouses to beachside homes—and even a yacht.

BY JORGE S. ARANGO

Top:

ZD+A/Rafael

Gamo;

Navarro

MEXICO CITY

Architecture ZDA, zda.com.mx, in collaboration with VGZ Architects

Design Ilana Goldberg, @goldberginteriores

Square Feet 19,375

Bedrooms 4 (plus 2 staff quarters)

To accommodate this amply proportioned house in western Mexico City’s tony colonia Bosque de las Lomas, “We built it into a ravine, so it is immersed in the forest,” says Mexican architect Yuri Zagorin Alazraki. The single-family home extends laterally along the ravine, providing generous cross ventilation. The approach reveals only a main public floor of cast-inplace concrete with private, zinc-wrapped sleeping bungalows on a plinth above it. Yet, it extends a full third floor below,

where service areas are located. “The clients wanted something comfortable that faced inward,” says Alazraki. To wit, out back, a private garden buffers the house from the landscape beyond. This creates a sense of private oasis far from the city. “It is selfsufficient eight months of the year, designed to use very little water and electricity,” he says. “Solar panels are incorporated into the architecture. Rainwater collects in cisterns on the lower floor,” providing both drinking water and graywater for irrigation. 

PUNTA MITA, NAYARIT

Architecture Central de Arquitectura, centraldearquitectura.com; Módica Ledezma, modicaledezma.com

Design Habitación 116, @habitacion116

Square Feet 1,950

Bedrooms 7

“There is a democracy of having clients with two heads,” says Carlos Ledezma of Módica Ledezma about designing one house for two brothers with respective families. “It has many positive dualities.” At this hillside house, adds José Sánchez of Mexican residential developer Central de Arquitectura (with whom Ledezma collaborated), “We wanted to maximize the views to the ocean and treat each section equally.” The separate brothers’ areas each has its own family room and sleeping quarters, while kitchen and

dining functions are shared. “Primary views are to the north, where there is a constant cool wind,” explains Ledezma. But, along the back are gardens, “so when you don’t see ocean, you see plants.”

All around is what Sánchez refers to as “this home’s grand gesture: a deep deck,” which, along with sliding doors, opens the house to abundant cross ventilation and provides shade. The unifying palette—pigmented concrete, parota wood, travertine—ensures the entire composition feels of one piece. 

Architecture and Design VOID Studio, void-studio.mx

Square Feet 8,730 total (4 units, each between 1,800 and 2,800)

Bedrooms 9 (3 two-bedroom and 1 three-bedroom units)

The overdevelopment of Tulum has produced many of what architect Joel V. Martinez calls “shoeboxes with four walls.” His and partner Fernanda Rodriguez’s answer to the dearth of design-forward options is the award-winning, Escher-like Cuatro Cielos, or “Four Heavens”— four distinct units that share an entry. “The building takes shape from the land, belongs to the land,” says Martinez, meaning it is a 100-percent locally sourced emanation of an innate Mexican spirit. The stone used in its construction comes from the project excavation, and other materials are regional, including maculí hardwood and chukum (a pre-Colombian form of stucco with a neutral color that, Martinez observes, “doesn’t heat up and is impenetrable and immune to the sun”). The furniture, all commissioned from Mexico City design collaborative La Metropolitana (lametropolitana .com), “had to hold up to the jungle and age with dignity,” he says. “We offer a play of volumes that have the potential for privacy and serenity.”

TULUM, QUINTANA ROO

MEXICO CITY

Architecture and Design Gomez Crespo Arquitectos, gomezcrespoarquitectos.com; Simon Hamui Design Studio, simonhamui.com

Square Feet 8,615 (plus 1,300 terrace)

Bedrooms 4

For a family with young adult children relocating after COVID-19 from a country home to a 24th-floor urban penthouse, notes designer Simon Hamui, “The approach was to have the kids at home as much as possible. The environment had to invite them and their friends, or they’d gather elsewhere.” So, the duplex’s lower floor accommodates

their bedrooms and a large family room and entertainment space. This did not dictate a romper room aesthetic, however. Throughout are European oak floors, ribbed Haisa marble, and aged ash. Hamui designed and executed millwork and furniture—including a dramatically sculptural bar—mixing it with pieces such as Gianfranco Frattini Lina

chairs, a bookcase by Henge, and a custom stairwell chandelier by Mexican designer Federico Stefanovich. As Hamui describes it, “It’s a serene oasis from the bustle of Mexico City achieved through the quietness of acoustic treatments, with the integration of exterior and interior spaces and heavy use of plants throughout.”

MEXICO CITY

Architect Jaime Escárcega Rincón

Design Juskani Alonso Estudio, juskanialonso.mx

Square Feet About 1,725

Bedrooms 2

Usually we value a box for its contents. But in this apartment for a young couple and their child, the exterior carries equal weight. Juskani Alonso’s dual-purpose box structure encloses the entry, creating a sense of arrival and graceful pause before the main living spaces. Around one length of its exterior, the design accommodates a bench with footwear storage, plus a mirror and hooks for outerwear, while the perpendicular side provides shelves and a nook for stereo equipment. “In keeping

with their taste for Japanese aesthetics,” he says, “they can sit at the bench and exchange their shoes for indoor slippers.”

The box—along with a lattice shelving divider and custom built-in furniture— is all constructed from Mexican ash. Pairing this with similarly toned Crema Lisboa marble floors achieves aesthetic harmony. Negro Galaxia granite kitchen countertops add the one note of drama, and David Pompa pendants throughout light the interiors. 

During the pandemic, many families with yachts decamped to a life on the water, where the floating isolation provided a private environment that helped ensure minimal risk of contagion. So it was with this Belgian 50-something couple with pre-adolescent children, who were referred to Mexican architect Ezequiel Farca by friends for whom he’d outfitted another yacht. For their 140-foot vessel, he explains, his clients “wanted the spaces to be thought of as if they were being utilized as rooms of a house.”

Residential textures—wood paneling, wood veneers for furniture, marbles, leather, lacquered linen, plush rugs— all contribute to an overall residential look and feel, as well as a palette that mixes marine blues with earthier, more landlubber browns. Within these choices, Farca had to walk a line between luxury and the more practical concerns of abundant storage accommodation, weatherresistant surfaces, and lightweight, low-maintenance materials and applications. It is, quite literally, “a floating sanctuary,” he says. u

THE HIGH SEAS

Design Ezequiel Farca Studio, ezequielfarca.co

Naval Architect Studio Vafiadis, vafiadis.com

Boat Builder Baglietto, baglietto.com

Square Feet About 11,840

Bedrooms 5 (plus 3 staff quarters)

FURNISHINGS

Cool Like That

Organic whimsy invades the oh-so-serious rationale of modernism.

BY JORGE S. ARANGO

Los Angeles sculptor Patricia Roach has made 30 bronze vessels for Holly Hunt, each one unique. They draw on biomorphic forms—seed pods, flowers, branches—that seem to be caught in the evolutionary act, morphing before our eyes as they blossom, grow upward, explode outward, and so on. Price upon request, to the trade only; hollyhunt.com

The name Mole Eats Worm, a plush, colorful sofa by Misha Kahn for Friedman Benda (edition of 20), says it all. It’s not clear who’s eating whom, but that’s just the zany, surrealist mind of Kahn, who never met a curvy line or insouciant gesture he didn’t like. He is modernism’s opposite of the monochrome right angle. Price upon request; friedmanbenda.com

German artist Pia-Maria Raeder, represented by Todd Merrill Studio and Galerie BSL, makes objects with a quirky organic feel inspired by natural forms. And it’s obsessive. Her Anemone sculptures can include tens of thousands of painted beechwood rods, depending on size. Totem sculptures are custom at various heights. Price upon request; toddmerrillstudio.com; galeriebsl.com

R & Company has been repping Rogan Gregory’s work since 2015, and it’s easy to see why. His Fertility Series is serious in its embodiment of biological processes, including mutation and reproduction (breasts, spermatozoa, ovaries, replicating cells), yet the forms ultimately come together—like these light sculptures—as functional furniture that is both accessible and impossible to resist. Price upon request; r-and-company.com

The Milanese design studio Osanna Visconti is offering its Alga candlestick holders, from single to multiple stems, in natural bronze or with black or green patinas. Sculpted in a free-form organic style that would look almost childlike if it weren’t so elegant, they are then made using the ancient lost-wax casting method. $920–$3,075; osannavisconti.com

Lucca, Italy–based Italian Polish sculptural designer Jonathan Bocca likes to make people smile. Hence his functional creature objects (lamps, chairs, tables) made of recycled materials (primarily paper pulp), which sport hooves, clawed feet, neck-like protrusions, and other benign monster and sea creature appendages and forms. Lucca, known for its use of traditional paper-making techniques, is one of the largest cities in Europe known for paper production. $2,000–$12,000; 1stdibs.com 

Danish designer Jørn Utzon, famous for designing the Sydney Opera House, introduced the Utzon stool for Fritz Hansen in the 1950s, but it never went beyond prototype stage. Now the company has decided to put the playfully mushroom-like solid beechwood form into commercial production. From $1,500; fritzhansen.com

There is an irreverent humor to French designer Benjamin Foucaud’s Amphigouria bench for STUDIOTWENTYSEVEN, which is cast from bronze in a limited edition of 10. Amphigory defines a meaningless or nonsensical verse or composition. Here form arises from drawing, algorithmic intervention, and pure chance. Price upon request; studiotwentyseven.com

Heirloom, an industrial and digital design studio founded this year, introduces Flump, a marshmallow-like stool made of 3D-printed, reclaimed ocean plastics that comes in four pastel colors: orange, pink, blue, and green. Lightweight and easy to move around, it requires a six- to eight-week lead time to ship from the U.K. and the Netherlands. Price upon request; flump.heirloom.co

The Onda Freeform coffee table from Form (LA) is designed by Jordan Mossler. It comes in two lengths—72 and 84 inches—and can be ordered completely in Golden Spider marble (shown) or with any of five other stone combinations, such as Nero Antique with Carrara Bianco or Breccia Rosa with Travertino Navona. From $13,400; form-losangeles.com

Mexican Spirit

Mexico’s modernism is alive and well in these artful products by domestic designers.

BY JORGE S. ARANGO

Mexican design atelier EWE Studio collaborated with glass masters at Nouvel Studio in Naucalpan de Juárez, a municipality outside Mexico City, for the limited-edition (10 plus one author piece) Extra Large Magma lighting fixture. Glass is blown into hand-carved volcanic stone molds, then placed on hand-hammered brass plates and lit with LED lights. Price upon request; ewe-studio.com

Collectible design gallery OMET represents many Mexican artists/designers, including Raúl de la Cerda, whose Tikal bench abstracts Mayan hieroglyphics into this three-part piece, which highlights the raw beauty of green marble. In doing so, de la Cerda bridges contemporary design with his pre-Hispanic roots. Price upon request; omet.co

The Gear Collection by Héctor Esrawe was inspired, like many of his works, by a quotidian object: ordinary box cardboard whose corrugated layer is sandwiched between two smooth ones. These one-of-a-kind tables and light sculptures are cast in bronze, sometimes polished. Price upon request; hectoresrawe.com 

The ceramic sculptures of Monterrey-based Andrés Anza belong to a surreal population of beings, at once familiar and slightly forbidding. They can evoke worms, knots, fuzzy monsters, sea creatures, bizarre fungi, and more, awakening our senses through curious forms and visually and physically palpable textures. Price upon request; andresanza.com

Textile designer Marisol Centeno’s Claroscuro rug for the Mexican design gallery OMET is a luxurious take on the petate, a mat made of straw that’s used for childbirth (as well as burial). Its snakeskin-like assembly of flatwoven wool pieces recalls the myth of the Aztec goddess Coatlicue, who wore a skirt of snakes. Price upon request, 9.8 by 6.5 feet; omet.co

The Faces bench by Edgar Orlaineta for Querétaro-based design studio CGN is inspired by children’s toys. It delivers total adult functionality, albeit with a sense of youthful humor. It’s made of electrostatic powder-coated steel and wicker and is made to order. About $6,400; cgn.design

Carmen Tapia’s Vórtice collection for CGN embodies the spinning motion of their name, which means “whirlwind.” They are made of tumbaga, a nonspecific alloy of gold and copper, which was common in Mesoamerica long before the conquistadores arrived. The trays are available plated in silver or copper. $1,010–$1,600; cgn.design

In case the bright, Crayola-crayon color and the gooey look of the surface treatments on Sofia Elias’ Party of Three chairs didn’t tip you off, the Guadalajara-born designer draws inspiration from kids’ play spaces. You’d be hard-pressed to find seating that’s more fun and lighthearted. Each is made to order, price upon request; sofiaelias.mx

Milena Muzquiz is a multidisciplinary artist whose recent work at MASA—a collective that curates exhibitions at the boundary between art and design—included paintings recalling fantasized floral environments and three cast bronze stools. Price upon request; mmaassaa.com u

Coastal Elements

The season’s most natural forms are a confluence of relaxed layers, flowing capes, sharp blazers, long skirts, and tall boots.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY COLETTE DE BARROS STYLING BY KATIE

MOSSMAN

Shot on location in Northern California at The Sea Ranch Lodge (thesearanchlodge.com), an intimate mind-and-body retreat with breathtaking views of the Pacific

On her: BRIONI coat, $7,995, sweater, $2,295, and gloves, $1,490; brioni.com

On him: BRIONI coat, $9,700, cardigan, $2,595, trousers, $1,490, sweater, $945, and beanie, $695; brioni.com

CHLOÉ coat, $7,590, cardigan, $2,250, mini shorts, $1,090, and boots, $2,090; chloe.com

KHAITE coat, $4,600, and dress, $5,400; khaite.com

LOEWE coat, $3,150; loewe.com TOTEME boots, $1,200; toteme.com

On her: AKRIS jacket, $3,990, and gown, $5,990; us.akris.com

On him: CELINE coat, $3,950, and sweater, $1,350; celine.com AMI PARIS trousers, $815; amiparis.com

NANUSHKA cape, $1,975, and pants, $625; nanushka.com

TOM FORD top, $1,590; tomford.com

Opposite on her:

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN cardigan, $3,490, and skirt $1,990; alexandermcqueen.com

HELMUT LANG top, $450; helmutlang.com

TOTEME boots, $1,200; toteme.com

Opposite on him: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI coat, $8,995; brunellocucinelli.com

ZEGNA turtleneck, $2,100, and boots, price upon request; zegna.com

ELWOOD pants, $80; elwoodclothing.com

DOLCE & GABBANNA coat, $7,345; dolcegabbana.com

ZEGNA jacket and trousers, price upon request; zegna.com

DRIES VAN NOTEN sweater, $560; driesvannoten.com

OVERLAND scarf, $119; overland.com

TOM FORD coat, $9,980, pants, $4,450, and top, $1,590; tomford.com

LORO PIANA sweater, $2,825; loropiana.com

STELLA MCCARTNEY blazer, $1,990, and pants, $950; stellamccartney.com

NILI LOTAN blouse, $595; nililotan.com CARTIER ring, $2,370; cartier.com

BRANDON MAXWELL scarf, $895, blazer, $2,295, and pants, $1,295; brandonmaxwellonline.com TOTEME loafers, $680; toteme.com

TOTEME coat, $5,250, and loafers, $680; toteme.com

L’AGENCE blouse, $315; lagence.com

LEO SEASON pants, $748; leoseason.com

The Great White

Exploring Antarctica aboard a small-vessel expedition yacht sets the stage for an interactive ice and wildlife show like you’ve never experienced.

BY FRANK VIZARD

Courtesy Matt Hardy/EYOS Expeditions (3)

EYOS expedition guide and spotter Richard White hesitates. “Let’s just go and see what happens,” he says. Moments later, two Zodiac rubber boats power away from the Hanse Explorer mother ship. The search party pursues Antarctic sea life, working around icebergs

bigger than the ship itself and smaller ice floe sheets that are often sundecks for leopard seals digesting their last meal or stops for penguins pausing to consider their next one.

The Zodiacs don’t travel far before the telltale blow of a bowhead whale advertises its presence and breaches the water in a majestic swoon, landing with a splash and then flourishing its distinctive fluke as it disappears.

Surfacing once more, the whale rolls on its back, pectoral fins waving for applause for a dance maneuver well executed. Those on the Zodiacs are too stunned by the giant awesomeness of the sight to clap. They also are close enough to worry that next time the massive whale might land in their laps, so the Zodiacs slip away.

This kind of whale spotting almost becomes routine in Antarctic waters in a small vessel, for Antarctica is a natural theater; something is always happening on its vast white stage. The bowheads are always keen to avoid orcas, deadly critics of whale performances, which also call Antarctica home. Penguins are by far the biggest ensemble; one colony may have as many as 100,000 tuxedo-styled members jostling from side to side for position. A note about the penguins: They can be bossy. Penguins like to walk through people in their way; they have the numbers in Antarctica, and they know it. (Antarctica isn’t called the “Land of the Penguins” for nothing.) “Penguins are moving gradually farther south due to climate change,” notes White in his British accent.

White’s “let’s just go and see what happens” becomes a mantra of sorts and an often thrice-daily signal to dress for the cold sea. That spontaneity is what makes smallvessel cruising in Antarctica different from that experienced aboard the more monstrous ships that ply the waters of the southern polar region. The key is the small size: There are only 12 guests on board the Hanse Explorer That’s in marked contrast to larger ships with hundreds of passengers that must disembark guests in color-coded waves for more necessarily organized excursions. That’s not to say the large-ship experience is a negative one nor that the wider choice of amenities (the variety of onboard restaurants for one) is unwelcome. By contrast, there is no menu on the Hanse Explorer; the ship’s chef makes the meal choice (you won’t complain) and there are no other options. On a small vessel the experience is different than that of a large ship, but either way is good. Or as White puts it: “Just get to Antarctica any way you can.”

Antarctic wildlife is the star of the show, but the ice is the scene stealer. The vastness

of the ice that covers the White Continent is unimaginable in scale. The Hanse Explorer sails 982 miles on this particular trip, voyaging south along the western edge of the Trinity Peninsula, south along the coast of Graham Land to Prospect Point and the Doyle Glacier (one of many), before doubling back around the peninsula’s tip to slip south once more through the Antarctic Sound into the Erebus and Terror Gulf that opens to the Weddell Sea. The final stop and disembarkation point is King George Island in the South Shetlands, where a Zodiac deposits passengers on the beach for airplane connections. Such is the vastness of Antarctica that even after days and nights staring at the White Continent, it feels like the place has been but glimpsed. It’s like

“Let’s just go and see what happens” becomes a mantra of sorts, and an often thrice-daily signal to dress for the cold sea.

trying to comprehend North America by only seeing New York’s Long Island.

Shipboard views inland are both forbidding and alluring, making Antarctica feel like a white sin. There are few beaches and landing spots, as the ice often rises like a barrier at the shoreline. The most accessible areas are often just broad spits of rock, approached through floating ice that may close in behind the unwary. Penguins have already claimed most of the best spots and in the case of large colonies like the ones at Brown Bluff and Paulet Island, the smell can precede a sighting. Most visitors get used to it and indeed, a scattering of research bases like one operated by Chile often share the space. Other species stake their claims to certain spots such as Tay Head on the south coast of Joinville Island. It’s basically a seal riviera with scores of animals lying out before views across Erebus and Terror Gulf toward the

Weddell Sea and the ice wall beyond. The Hanse Explorer expedition yacht, managed by charter company EYOS, boasts an extra-thick, ice-strengthened hull that can break through pack ice (ice class GL-E3).

“Expedition yachts are for those comfortable with leaving luxury at home,” says Tim Soper, founder of EYOS and a shipmate. EYOS also arranges trip logistics and organizes off-ship excursions. Soper, a marine scientist and veteran Antarctica traveler, has the White Continent in his blood—his father, Tony Soper, wrote a book about Antarctic wildlife while also developing nature television programs for the BBC and National Geographic. Interest in expedition yachts has surged in recent years due to the rising popularity of extreme destination cruises.

At 156 feet, the Hanse Explorer is relatively small but far from uncomfortable. The seven guest cabins are very pleasant and surprisingly spacious, and the ship’s antirolling system generally ensures smooth sailing even when the seas are not (sleeping on your back helps too). The Hanse Explorer, launched in 2006 by the German company Fassmer Werft and refitted in 2020, cruises at 10 knots with a maximum of 12 knots. From an engine room perspective, it’s like a small vessel with a larger one packed inside.

Shipboard life is intimate in that meals are taken together at a single large table in the dining room, while the adjacent lounge is effectively a large living room. The ship has an interior design award to its name, but the overall decor is best described as light, functional, and relaxed. There also are outdoor decks aft and topside, a Finnish-style sauna and hot tub, and a fleet of kayaks.

Hot chocolate with a liberal dollop of Baileys Irish Cream is the daily warm-up beverage after a rugged outing. Also note that while larger expedition ships generally supply a parka and waterproof, knee-high boots, the small size of an expedition yacht means you’re bringing your own.

The place to find your inner polar explorer is on the bridge, which is accessible to passengers at any time. Captain Andriy Bratash is a congenial host (likely to appear at dinner) and commands the international, 

14-member crew. The bridge is attractive for its wide-angle view of the sea ahead, where passing tabular icebergs are often much bigger than the ship, with their flat tops resembling frozen cargo ships. Other icebergs are beautiful carvings created by an unseen, artistic hand. And the ice has its many names. Shuga, for example, is the spongy-looking lumps that form as the sea begins to freeze. Glaciers, meanwhile, creep toward the shoreline with large hunks occasionally and suddenly calving into the sea with a loud boom.

The Hanse Explorer uses modern navigation equipment, but two old-school touches create a sense of continuity with historical polar explorers like the legendary Ernest Shackleton of Endurance fame. One is a functioning wooden steering helm that Shackleton and his fellow explorers would have been comfortable with, and the other is a chart table with paper maps from the

British Admiralty and the Royal Antarctic Survey. Place names leap off the charts, each with its own adventure to tell. The Antarctic Sound 25 miles east of Paulet, for example, is named for a ship crushed by the ice in 1903, with the 20-man crew managing to survive through winter in a rock hut with only the loss of one seaman. The Erebus and Terror Gulf is named for two ships that visited Antarctica before being lost in the famous 19th-century Franklin expedition in the Arctic. The long and narrow Forbidden Plateau, meanwhile, is well named as it stymied all attempts to reach it until 1957.

Indeed, the dream of exploration is not a fleeting flight of fancy in Antarctica aboard a small vessel. While large ships stick to wellcharted sea routes, the Hanse Explorer can go where none have been before. One such place near Wilhelmina Bay (loved by whales) is a channel between two islands: Nansen (named for the famous polar explorer and discovered

by the heroic 1897–1899 Belgian Antarctic Expedition) and Brooklyn (named for the hometown of the famous American polar explorer Dr. Frederick Cook, who served on that same Belgian expedition alongside the legendary Roald Amundsen).With no previous soundings indicated on the map, the Hanse Explorer measured the channel’s depth for the first time. There are still lots of gaps of knowledge about Antarctica. It’s a continent that is still relatively unvisited—the number of annual visitors would fill up a football stadium on a weekend afternoon.

And that’s really the crux of it. Small expedition yachts like the Hanse Explorer can travel to otherwise inaccessible polar places as easy as an ice floe. Larger ships may be spotted in passing but when the Hanse Explorer stops, the only audience around is a dozen shipmates to witness such a wealth of whales, seals, and penguins. eyos-expeditions.com u

High-Peak Thrills

Pursue four seasons of recreational activities in the best resort mountain towns from Wyoming to Canada, France to Switzerland.

BY LARRY OLMSTED

Summer in Banff, Canada

Fall in Zermatt, Switzerland

Courtesy Images Clockwise

From Top Left: Black Tomato; Chamonix Tourism; Jackson Hole Mountain Resort; Michel Reybier Hospitality

The mountains are calling and I must go,” said John Muir, the great 19th-century mountaineer and “Father of the National Parks.”

Before Muir, French and Swiss alpinists set their sights on the summit of Mont Blanc in the 1700s, and today the pursuits of skiing in winter and climbing in summer draw people to glorious alpine settings worldwide. While charming ski towns are a dime a dozen—and wonderful when the snow flies—many become ghost towns in the offseason. For those seeking four-season adventure, these four locations deliver—and may be busier in the summer than in ski season, despite exceptional skiing and snowboarding. 

Spring in Chamonix, France

Winter in Jackson Hole, Wyoming

CHAMONIX, FRANCE

The original resort mountain town, Chamonix birthed the sport of mountaineering in the 1700s and remains home to the world’s first and most famous professional guide outfit, La Compagnie des Guides (since 1821), which leads hikers, climbers, and skiers today.

Chamonix sits in the shadow of Mont Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps and Western Europe. It was the first mountain that humans set out to climb for sport, back in 1786, but before that it was famous for its glaciers, written up by two Englishmen exploring the area. Their published exploits drove tourism, with the first accommodations opened in 1770. In 1901, a railway provided the first easy winter access for tourists. This kicked off a rich history of skiing, with cable cars accessing higher slopes, and in 1924 Chamonix would cement its preeminent reputation by hosting the first Winter Olympics.

Today this long tradition of active tourism has been ratcheted up in scope. In winter it is among France’s most desirable places to ski, and home to one of the most famous expert runs in the world, the Vallée Blanche. This glacier run is accessed by a roped-in descent to the glacier, ideally with the help of certified mountain guides.

From spring to fall, Chamonix is the traditional beginning and end of one of the world’s most famous multiday hikes—and now trail running ultra races—the Tour du Mont Blanc. Circumnavigation of

the famous peak through France, Italy, and Switzerland, the TMB is a holy grail for hikers and runners. Chamonix is also a magnet for mountain bikers and the full gamut of extreme-sports seekers, from winter mountaineers to wingsuit fliers and all sorts of aerial adventurers, including skydivers and paragliders. It’s a great place to try ice climbing, and in warmer months, there are white-water rafting and hydro-boarding (riding white water on a small board). If you have no climbing experience you can take lessons or feel the thrill on a via ferrata, a climbing-like experience where you are harnessed and clipped into a cable, rope, or metal ladder rungs affixed to the mountainside and cliff faces.

At the end of the day, the charming town’s streets are full of great restaurants and bars serving delicious alpine fare. La Compagnie des Guides (chamonix-guides.com) is excellent for many summer and winter adventures. For almost two centuries the town’s top luxury hotel has been the understated Hôtel Mont-Blanc Chamonix (hotelmontblancchamonix.com), with an unbeatable central location. More recently the ante was upped by the first hotel from legendary experiential French bar/club/restaurant operator La Folie Douce (lafoliedoucehotels.com), whose hotel features live entertainment and copious glasses of Champagne served nightly. 

Rafting through Chamonix

Courtesy Chamonix Tourism (5)

Home to Canada’s first national park (and the third in the world), Banff the town, in fact, is located entirely within the park. Stunning mountain views right from its Old West–style Main Street set the stage, and nearby is the stunningly gorgeous Lake Louise, one of the most photographed—and Instagrammed—bodies of water on Earth. If you talk to anyone who has ever visited, natural beauty is the first thing they mention—it’s just everywhere you look. Banff National Park was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site specifically for its “exceptional natural beauty” and “striking mountain landscape.”

While most North American ski towns came from mining, tourism was always the raison d’être for Banff, born as a Canadian Pacific Railway stop back in the era when the railway built grand hotels across the country to drive ticket sales and leisure travel. Perhaps the most famous of these is the Fairmont Banff Springs (fairmont.com), aka “The Castle in the Rockies,” right in town and the place to stay, along with its waterfront sister hotel, the Fairmont Château Lake Louise (a 50-minute drive away). Unusual for a rugged, adventure-centric

mountain town, Banff is also home to one of the most famous golf courses in North America, the iconic Banff Springs. Banff is a world-class ski destination with SkiBig3 (skibig3 .com), three resorts sharing a single lift ticket and free transport. Two of these, Lake Louise and Sunshine Village, would each be one of the largest in Colorado. The Nordic center for the Calgary Olympic Games is in Canmore, the first town outside the park and a 20-minute drive from Banff. Canmore is also home to one of the world’s top mountain biking trail systems. Hiking is hugely popular, and a scenic road, the Icefields Parkway, is a major destination for road cyclists. Canoeing and other non-motorized water sports are popular on large Lake Louise, which in winter becomes a hockey and skating venue. Besides hiking and skiing, Banff is most famous for climbing, with rock climbing and mountaineering for all abilities, including very difficult technical routes, plus ice climbing in winter. Banff connects directly with three other large abutting national parks, Jasper, Yoho, and Kootenay, offering endless outdoor adventure all year long.

BANFF, ALBERTA

Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top Left: Black Tomato (2); Banff & Lake Louise Tourism (2)

Jackson may be home to one of the most famous ski resorts on the planet, but summer is the busy season here, as the town is the gateway to two stunning national parks, Yellowstone (the world’s first) and Grand Teton. The latter is named for its iconic peak, the Mont Blanc of the Americas, where mountaineering in the United States kicked off. More than 12 decades after its first conquest, Climbing magazine still describes it as a “rite of passage for American mountaineers,” and there are around three dozen well-established named routes, and more than double that amount of possible route variations. Following in the footsteps of Chamonix, the Grand birthed the desire to climb America’s most iconic mountain guide service nearly a century ago, and Jackson’s Exum Mountain Guides (exumguides.com) has taken thousands of would-be climbers to the summit for its four-day camps (two days of skill building and the two-day climb). Exum also leads other outdoor pursuits, including backcountry skiing. Jackson itself is a famously fun Old West town with cowboy roots that still thrive here today, from horseback rides, chuck wagon dinners,

and the popular rodeo to the saddle-topped barstools at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar and the bar at the Silver Dollar Bar inlaid with 4,000 uncirculated Morgan Silver Dollar coins—all from 1921. There are lots of bison and elk on local menus and several craft breweries. In winter the attention shifts to Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (jacksonhole.com), “The Big One,” with the nation’s highest vertical drop. It is also home to America’s most infamous double-black diamond expert trail, Corbet’s Couloir, which involves a “mandatory air” leap of faith into a chute in the rock. Jackson Hole pioneered the backcountry gate partnership with the Forest Service, so you can use its lifts to access out-of-bounds skiing. There’s snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and alpine touring through the national parks, which in summer boast world-class hiking. Some of the best fly-fishing in the country is in and around Jackson, and mountain biking is also hugely popular here. Top lodging can be had at the Hotel Jackson (hoteljackson.com) and The Cloudveil (thecloudveil.com), while 12 miles away at the ski resort is the slope-side Four Seasons Resort and Residences (fourseasons.com). 

JACKSON, WYOMING

ZERMATT, SWITZERLAND

Ask a child to draw a mountain and you’ll probably end up with a cartoon Matterhorn. The world’s most recognizable peak, which has graced Toblerone chocolate bars, endless advertisements, and Disneyland, towers over Zermatt, a town that embraced the sustainable-tourism trend nearly a century ago, when it banned automobiles. Most visitors arrive on one of the most famous scenic railway routes in the world, and hotels pick up guests at the station in electric carts. The long pedestrianized main street with mountain views is exclusively for strolling, and just about every storefront that does not serve fondue, raclette, and wine is an outdoor gear shop or outfitter, a clear indication of Zermatt’s priorities.

The Matterhorn was one of the last big peaks of the Alps to be summitted, and when a British team finally made it, they lost several members on the descent. Ironically, this tragedy put the town firmly on the map when Queen Victoria banned climbing trips here, creating a forbidden fruit backlash—suddenly everyone wanted to come to Zermatt, and they still do. Today you can do the full-day climb without technical skills if you are in good shape, but you absolutely need a professional mountain guide and, ideally, experience with crampons.

Hiking is the No. 1 outdoor activity here, with about 250 miles

of well-marked trails right from town, and many more connecting to multiday trails across the Alps. The postcard-perfect town has long been one of the world’s top summer destinations for day hikers, with trails ascending in all directions, many leading to remote mountain chalets serving fondue and cold beer. The Gornergrat and 5 Lakes Trail are especially famous day hikes, and many routes are assisted by cable cars and Europe’s highest open-air cog railway, which leaves right from the main street. Mountain biking is also very popular.

In winter the cog railway is a main access point for skiers, and Matterhorn Ski Paradise is the highest altitude resort in Switzerland at almost 12,000 feet. You can ski directly into Italy’s Cervinia resort and you can even ski in summer, with about 13 miles of slopes and pistes open year-round, drawing national ski teams from all over the globe for training. Paragliding is also offered in the summer and winter.

Of all the great mountain towns, Zermatt is probably the most about the town itself, so idyllic that the developers of Colorado’s largest ski resort, Vail, modeled their village on it. It has the best food options in this niche, from several Michelin-starred eateries to the top examples of regional alpine fare in traditional stubes. The classic luxury hotel is the Mont Cervin Palace (michelreybierhospitality.com), and a newer kid on the block is its sister hotel, the Schweizerhof. u

Mont Cervin Palace in Summer

Off the Beaten Ski Track

Meteorologists are predicting a La Niña weather pattern for the 2024/25 ski season, which means snowy conditions in Montana and Idaho—two states with luxury resorts in remote locales, aka less crowds on the slopes.

BY DEBORAH FRANK

What makes Big Sky different than Vail or Park City? “The ski resort came first, then the town,” says Victorio Gonzalez, general manager of Montage Big Sky (montage.com). “It reminds me of Deer Valley in 2010: exclusive, private, untouched, and rugged. Montana is deliberately unrefined, and people love it for that reason.” And the balance between this ruggedness and modern amenities is what’s driving luxury development in the area. Before Montage opened in December 2021, The Ranch at Rock Creek was the only luxury hotel property. “Of course, there are private clubs like Yellowstone and Spanish Peaks,” says Gonzalez, “but Montage was the pioneer, the first five-star resort. Now we have One&Only being built on the Moonlight Basin side, so there will be another hotel.” (One&Only’s Big Sky resort will be the brand’s first in the United States and its first winter destination.)

The 139 rooms and suites of Montage are located within the 3,530-acre Spanish Peaks enclave, which is about a 20-minute drive from the Big Sky Resort base area and main town. Outside its on-site

activity center is “ski beach” where guests leave their equipment for ski-in/ski-out sessions near beginner-friendly terrain, wide-open groomers, and easy gladed runs. In addition to downhill, book a guided snowshoe trek with a naturalist who will point out animal tracks, flora, and fauna you would hardly notice otherwise. Big Sky is one of the very few mountains where you can ski among mountain goats; last count showed a herd of 40.

Big Sky Resort has introduced a new chairlift nearly every year since 2016 when it unveiled its capital improvement plan for 2025. Its impressive chairlift infrastructure ensures short lift lines and features super luxurious, state-of-the-art bubble lifts with heated cushion seats and electric bars. The new Lone Peak Tram to the summit drops guests at 11,166 feet for views of Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, and Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. Expert skiers can choose from single, double, or triple black diamond runs to get down. The resort’s unpretentious, chill vibe is for those who have skied all the other mountains in the West and are ready for something different.

Courtesy Montage Big Sky. Opposite:

Schweitzer and Humbird (2)

BIG SKY RESORT, MONTANA

SCHWEITZER, SANDPOINT, IDAHO

With Canada less than 20 miles away and a name that means “Swiss man” in German, Schweitzer’s European feel is very fitting. The resort’s 2,900 acres of terrain in the Selkirk Mountains of northern Idaho make it the largest in the state and part of the Powder Triangle with Whitewater and Red Mountain in British Columbia just over the border. A two-hour drive from the Spokane International Airport and six hours from the Seattle metropolitan area, Schweitzer (schweitzer.com) offers practically no lift lines and a laidback attitude that translates to later starts. Do that yoga in the morning and have a relaxed breakfast; you don’t need to be at the lift right when it opens. Snowcat skiing here is mellow and at an intermediate level with little avalanche threat. The backcountry is an open-gate policy beyond the boundaries where you can ski to the Canadian border less than 20 miles away on a ridge hop.

The quaint village square has a clock

tower with a bell that’s rung to start the day; it’s a popular meeting point before hitting the slopes. On weekends, there’s twilight skiing from 4 to 7 p.m. The 31room Humbird hotel, which opened in 2022, plays to the new definition of luxury, which is all about time, wellness, and experiences rather than turndown service and a refresh of towels twice a day. Its aesthetic can be described as modern lumberjack crossed with Scandinavian minimalism. To the south and east, the hotel overlooks the lakeside town of Sandpoint and Lake Pend Oreille, the largest lake in Idaho. Its rooftop deck and hot tub overlook the mountain and lake, and on the floor below is the Glass Room, a unique glass-enclosed living room space featuring a cozy fireplace, a large-screen TV, and games. Located just off the lobby, Crow’s Bench serves upscale Bavarian cuisine. Named for a turn-of-the-century spot frequented by locals during Sandpoint’s early logging days, it’s the

ideal place for après-ski cocktails sipped in front of a massive dual-sided fireplace. For focused recovery, the hotel’s Cambium Spa across the way, offers infrared sauna sessions and the latest tech tools for do-ityourself soothing of sore muscles.

The boho chic town of Sandpoint is a quick 15-minute car ride down to the basin where you can find farmer’s markets, coffee roasters, and music venues alongside some innovative dining outlets, wine bars, and coffee shops. The town was founded as a timber community and is considered by locals to be more of a lake town with a mountain than a mountain town with a lake. Its architecture in the grainery district is converted, repurposed mills as its timber heritage prevails throughout.

In all, Schweitzer has built a secret gem that’s about good skiing on your own private hill in a part of the country that offers a rare winter escape. u

Going All In

An upper echelon of all-inclusive resorts is ensuring an entirely unencumbered luxury experience.

BY SHAUN TOLSON

Avast majority of experienced travelers will read the words “all-inclusive” in a resort description and jump to conclusions. They’ll envision beachside resorts that look and feel as if the mass commercial cruise lines have planted their roots on terra firma. These properties represent the evolution of Club Med, which first offered its set-price vacation during the

1950s, when Belgian entrepreneur Gérard Blitz introduced the all-inclusive model as a way to ensure guests could enjoy their vacations free of financial worry. Over the years, the all-inclusive model grew increasingly popular, but those properties established a bar of expectation. They attracted prospective travelers thanks to their relative affordability, but, over time, guests learned that at these resorts they

got what they paid for.

Today, a select number of luxuriously appointed boutique resorts deliver an all-inclusive experience, preserving the financial convenience with none of the thrift. Nightly rates typically run between $1,500 and $3,000—sometimes peaking as high as $10,000—and they provide a generous return on their steep rates. Here, five of the best across North America.

Tree house accommodation at Twin Farms in Bernard, Vermont

Built along the shores of Saranac Lake almost a century ago, The Point first opened in 1932 as a late-era example of the Adirondack Great Camps—native timber-and-granite residences of the Gilded Age financed by America’s aristocratic families. More specifically, The Point (originally known as Camp Wonundra), was conceived by William Avery Rockefeller II and epitomized the mountain charm that these lakeshore “camps” were meant to evoke. More notably, the property exists as the only Adirondack Great Camp from the Gilded Age that is open to the public.

Spread across 75 acres, The Point became a resort in 1980, and for the majority of that existence, the 11-guest-room estate has operated under an all-inclusive model. With a maximum occupancy of 22 guests, first-time visitors often have difficulty understanding just how tranquil, secluded, and seemingly private the on-property experience can be. “As a first-time guest, it’s hard to appreciate all the property has to offer,” says owner Laurie

Lapeyre, who first visited The Point with Pierre Lapeyre as a guest in 1993. They soon became regulars and purchased the property in 2016. Once you acclimate yourself, all of the local charms—and unparalleled hospitality— begin to sink in.

“It’s the genuine feeling of being a guest in a private home that is truly yours,” Laurie says. “Wander where you wish. Make full use of all the activities, culinary creations, drinks, and spaces. Never feel awkward about asking for anything you might need or wish for.”

The at-home ambiance of The Point is one of its greatest allures. Moreover, there’s a feeling of being immersed in history, as so much of the Main Lodge and its ancillary buildings have been preserved to reflect the way in which the Rockefeller family lived and enjoyed the residence during the middle of the 20th century. From wingback chairs positioned in front of the wood-burning fireplace in the library to 19th-century oil paintings and fine antiques woven into the

decor of the lodge and guest rooms, The Point concurrently welcomes you into a home and transports you to another time.

The resort’s staff members have perfected the art of hospitality. Not only are they attentive to any guest’s request, but they pay close attention to what guests say to each other and will deliver surprises accordingly. If a staff member hears you remark that a brisk fall day feels perfect for a hot cup of tea, you can expect a full tea service waiting in your room. Laurie recalls a time when a guest expressed a desire to have private cocktails on their terrace before dinner, and when the staff learned that the guest was open-minded as to when that private cocktail hour would occur, they checked the lunar calendar to determine which night would produce the fullest moon.

“They take the concept of ‘anticipatory service’ to such a remarkable level,” Laurie says. “They can be amazingly creative and there’s rarely a guest request that they can’t accommodate.”

From $2,650; thepointresort.com 

The Point Saranac Lake, New York

Twin Farms Barnard, Vermont

Since it opened in 1993, Twin Farms has delivered a level of attentive service that rivals the experience that the former Rockefeller estate provides 140 miles to the west. In fact, when the owners of Twin Farms set out to construct a resort rooted in peaceful tranquility—one that could offer experiences that reflect its location in an idyllic town not far from the Green Mountain National Forest; specialize in sophisticated, indulgent food and beverage; and deliver gracious, personalized hospitality—they looked to The Point for inspiration.

Unlike The Point, Twin Farms’ footprint has evolved over the last three-plus decades. What humbly began as a bedand-breakfast with nine rooms is now a boutique resort with five distinctive types of accommodations. For years, the property’s

10 standalone cottages were its calling card, as each was designed with a unique aesthetic. Open the door of a 900-squarefoot Vermont-clapboard-style residence, for example, and you’ll be transported into a Moroccan-themed suite complete with tented ceilings and terra-cotta floors. The Aviary cottage, by contrast, is a marvel of glass, stone, and cedar, and it’s outfitted with mid-century-modern furnishings.

The resort’s newest accommodations, eight tree houses, are set along the western edge of the property’s 300 acres and cantilevered into the forest about 20 feet above the ground. Accessible via woodand-metal bridges, the 800-square-foot guestrooms evoke some of the design cues of the Aviary cottage and provide guests striking views of the forest through floor-toceiling windows, not to mention curvilinear

decks that feel as if they’re suspended in the trees. “The tree houses are a place to celebrate the natural beauty of Vermont,” says Managing Director John Graham. “Every element of the design is intended to instill a sense of calm and solitude, while evoking curiosity. We wanted to create a calm space where guests feel truly one with nature.”

Reservations at Twin Farms, like The Point, include all meals, beverages (alcohol included), and unrestricted use of any of the on-site recreation areas and equipment. Staff members are committed to creating special moments and personalized experiences. Should you desire a mountaintop picnic or sunset cocktails, just say the word and arrangements are made, including the transportation of everything to the most scenic lookout on the property. From $2,800; twinfarms.com

Hacienda AltaGracia

Pérez Zeledón, Costa Rica

Getting to Hacienda AltaGracia in southern Costa Rica’s tropical forests has never been easier, now that the Auberge Resorts Collection property includes complimentary shared charters from Juan Santamaría International Airport. These private plane transfers land on the resort’s Pista airstrip, bringing guests directly onto the 180-acre property. Outfitted with 50 one- and two-bedroom casitas (some of which feature private plunge pools and sun terraces), Hacienda AltaGracia lets guests fully immerse themselves in the destination. Activities cater to a variety of interests, from tours of a local coffee plantation and a 50acre cacao farm to nature walks, horseback rides, nighttime hikes, and herbal soaks in the resort’s natural river bath.

Guests’ stays are inclusive of meals, daily Mindful Movement classes, access to a slew of amenities, and many of Hacienda AltaGracia’s complimentary adventure, wellness, and cultural activities. The culinary program offers a compelling ingress to the country’s culture with cooking workshops hosted in the chef’s organic garden and dinners at Cienfuegos, the resort’s flagship restaurant that specializes in live fire cooking. Don’t pass up a meal at Grano, which represents the executive chef’s laboratory. There, the culinary team focuses on Costa Rican ingredients and Latin American culinary techniques and rituals to create meals that tell a collection of stories with each course that’s served. From $800; aubergeresorts.com 

Bungalows Key Largo

Florida Keys

Bungalows Key Largo exemplifies a noteworthy departure—both within this roundup of all-inclusive luxury resorts and for the greater Florida Keys in which it’s located. For starters, the resort is home to 135 individual bungalows, which is more than twice the number of guestrooms of the next largest property included in this story. Key Largo is also known for its ruggedness. You won’t find much in the way of luxuriously appointed hotels or resorts in the area, which is why the property’s accommodations, with private verandas, outdoor garden showers, and oversize soaking tubs, are so significant. The resort also boasts 1,000 feet of private coastline; another rarity for the location.

As with any all-inclusive property, food and beverage serves as one of the easily critiqued

pillars of the overall experience; here, menus are reflective of the area, with fresh seafood dominating the property’s various restaurants. And it wouldn’t be the Keys without a plethora of rum-based cocktails, served almost everywhere on the 12-acre property—especially at Sunset Tiki Bar, where floating tiki boats make regular trips across the bay.

Guests can experience the water on kayaks, stand-up paddle boards, and water trikes, all complimentary, of course. Best of all, Bungalows Key Largo is easy to get to—the resort is only a 70-minute drive from Miami. Guests who are looking for a little more adventure, however, can take Sheltair Aviation’s 40-minute seaplane service from Fort Lauderdale International Airport. From $900; bungalowskeylargo.com

San Ysidro Ranch

Santa Barbara, Calif.

Set in the foothills of California’s Santa Ynez Mountains and boasting dramatic views of the Montecito coastline, San Ysidro Ranch has attracted discerning travelers for the better part of a century. The heralded property, spanning 550 acres, served as the site of Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh’s midnight wedding in 1940, for example, and also welcomed John F. and Jacqueline Kennedy on their honeymoon in 1953. Such a connection to America’s elite is only a small segment of the property’s alluring history. Originally settled by Franciscan monks and mission padres, the ranch became a working citrus farm in 1883. A decade later, the Hacienda opened as a boutique hotel that in time became a welcomed retreat for film and television stars such as Lucille Ball, Audrey Hepburn, and Bing Crosby.

Today, as guests walk the grounds— breathing in scents of orange blossoms, lavender, jasmine, and eucalyptus—they discover that the ranch still exudes the same charm as it did during the mid-20th century. That’s a testament to owner Ty Warner, who hired the hotel’s original architecture firm to rebuild many of the buildings after mudslides devastated the property six years ago. The restoration was executed with precision, returning the ranch’s vine-covered guest cottages to their former glory. Under a quaint and charming canopy of gnarled oaks and striking sycamores, those cottages (each with its own gated entry) remain discreetly tucked within a painstakingly manicured garden that boasts several flowering species, at least one of which is always in bloom.

In full disclosure, San Ysidro Ranch is

only somewhat of an all-inclusive resort. A nightly room rate includes all meals; however, most other activities on property—including alcoholic beverages and special food and beverage experiences—are additional costs.

In many cases, those tastings are worthy add-ons, especially since the resort’s awardwinning, 14,000-bottle wine cellar was recently bolstered by Warner’s acquisition of a complete vertical collection of Premier Cru Supérieur Château d’Yquem (the oldest bottle dates to 1811).

“We’re proud to offer our guests access to the most coveted and exclusive bottles of wine from Bordeaux and around the globe,” says Warner, acknowledging his intention to elevate the resort’s wine program above all other hospitality establishments in the region.

From $2,500; sanysidroranch.com 

The Case for the Ski Chalet

All-inclusive skiing with a private twist.

There’s an alternative to the Great American Ski Vacation. Making a winter sojourn begs repeating, for good sport and good company alike. But if you’ve gone the way of the North American ski-in/ski-out luxury resort, you know how the hidden extras add up fast, as one complaint of US ski travelers is the constant nickel-anddiming. An appeal of all-inclusive trips is knowing the cost going in, but while there are ultra-luxe, all-inclusive options in other kinds of travel, that model doesn’t exist in skiing—except at staffed chalets.

It was the British who invented the ski vacation, crossing the channel to hit the slopes in the Alps. Their preference endures for sharing lavish homes with family and friends, employing chefs, massage therapists, and ski instructors through the week. More opulent models include full-size indoor pools, gyms that rival those at much larger hotels, home theaters, pool tables, hot tubs, saunas, wine cellars, heated boot rooms, and even golf simulators. But best of all, from hot tubs to the yoga studio, you have it all to yourself.

“You have more rooms than your family would in a hotel, it’s more personalized, and the staff works just for you,” said Rick Reichsfeld, president of Alpine Adventures (alpineadventures.net), America’s leading luxury ski travel specialist, which often arranges European chalet trips. “It starts right away: They pick you up at the airport, take you around town, you never have to deal with driving. But the best thing is that everyone who goes skiing is on the same schedule, and no matter how nice a hotel is, they can’t give everyone spa appointments at 3 or 4 p.m., but that’s when everyone wants them. Here you go back to your house and take turns getting massages

while sitting in your hot tub drinking Champagne.”

After skiing, it’s typical to be greeted at the door with flutes of bubbly and private-chef cuisine that rivals top restaurants. Purple Ski (purpleski. com) is a high-end, UK-based chalet operator that has also embraced the US market, offering white-glove concierge services and multiple luxury chalets in three of France’s top ski resorts: Méribel, Courchevel, and Val d’Isère. These sleep 10–16, usually with accommodations for nannies or personal assistants, and start from $36,000–$60,000/week. With nightly dinner menus spanning 7–10 courses, from canapés through multiple fine dining courses to cheese boards and dessert. While basic weekly rentals include drivers, house staff, breakfast, après-ski snacks, and dinners all but one night, with freeflowing Champagne and fine French wines, their concierges routinely add in every bell and whistle you choose in advance, from massage therapists to daily ski instruction, lift tickets, transfers, lunch reservations on the slopes, in-chalet rental gear delivery and fitting, all in one simple transaction—and at a discount to what you would pay separately. Because the market is aimed at the United Kingdom, everyone speaks English.

The staffed chalet model is most common in France, especially at Les 3 Vallées (Courchevel, Méribel, Val Thorens), Les Portes du Soleil (Les Gets-Morzine, etc.), and Tignes (Val d’Isère, etc.). In Switzerland there’s Zermatt and Les 4 Vallées (Verbier, etc.), in Italy Cortina and Via Lattea (Sestriere, etc.), and in Austria St. Anton am Arlberg. As an added bonus these large, chalet-centric resorts are all much bigger, with more skiing and more towns than even the largest resorts in North America. u

—Larry Olmsted

Adventure Kingdom

Bhutan reigns among locations for awe-inspiring outdoor pursuits, from traversing a new cross-country route to fly-fishing wild rivers and going on safari to see snow leopards and red panda.

BY LARRY OLMSTED

The only country entirely contained within the Himalayas, the Kingdom of Bhutan is home to the world’s highest unclimbed peak: the 24,836-foot Gangkhar Puensum, or “White Peak of the Three Spiritual Brothers.” Some 20 mountains here exceed 23,000 feet, making up the largest collection of unclimbed high peaks contained in a small country (it’s about the size of West Virginia). Their unconquered status is not for lack of people trying, but rather because Bhutan is the only Buddhist monarchy on Earth. In deference to religious beliefs that the sacred mountains are home to important gods and spirits, climbing here is outlawed.

As bad as the rule is for height-obsessed alpinists, the good news for every other adventure seeker is the range of activities that can be enjoyed in Bhutan—from hiking and

mountain biking to white-water rafting, horseback riding, and some of the world’s best fly-fishing. There is also birding, wildlife viewing, and a handful of nine-hole golf courses. The national sport is archery, and most luxury hotels have facilities for guests to try with professional instruction and traditional equipment.

Unlike its Himalayan neighbors where popular mountains are crowded and littered with trash, Bhutan keeps its revered landscapes pristine. Strict limits on tourism and a “smaller is better” hotel philosophy have made crowds nonexistent. Among the world’s few carbon-negative countries, it primarily uses hydro-electric power, and despite demand and lush forests, for more than two decades Bhutan has banned the lucrative export of timber. Visitors arrive by way of the sole international airport in Paro and venture from there by car, soon reaching a pass on the road where they can pull 

over and stare in wonder at a vista of more than 100 miles of uninterrupted snowcapped Himalayan peaks. In the “Land of the Thunder Dragon,” the only distractions from the beauty of nature are the ubiquitous flapping prayer flags, considered most effective when flying their magic on the winds, and Bhutan’s collection of stunning architecture, from cliff-hugging, high-altitude Buddhist temples to ancient fortresses, monasteries, and one of the world’s largest Buddha statues—170 feet high, with 125,000 smaller Buddhas inside it.

The long-isolated country only opened its doors to international tourism in 1974, and ever since, the single most iconic site for visitors has been the Tiger’s Nest Monastery, or Paro Takstang, precariously built on a near-vertical mountainside almost 2,800 feet up. France has the Eiffel Tower, Egypt the Pyramids, and for Bhutan, this gravity-defying wonder is its most photographed spot. But there is no road or elevator, and to reach it requires a moderately strenuous uphill walk that takes most visitors four to six hours round trip.

In the half century since Bhutan opened its borders, the touristic embrace of adventure travel has drawn visitors in— and wildly accelerated in recent years. In September 2022, His

Majesty the King opened the Trans Bhutan Trail, a project four years in the re-making. A rough footpath the length of the nation existed in primitive form but had been closed since Bhutan welcomed outside visitors. Some 500 years ago it served as the pilgrimage route for Buddhists traveling to sacred sites in western Bhutan and Tibet. Now restored and improved, the 250-mile trail makes it possible for visitors to traverse Bhutan on foot or mountain bike for the first time.

The effort included rebuilding 18 major bridges and 10,000 stairs. It crosses nine dzongkhags (districts), 27 gewogs (villages), one municipality, and two national parks, meandering through virgin forests and accessing parts of Bhutan seldom visited by foreigners, reaching deep into the Eastern Himalayas. The route connects you to Bhutan’s history, with over 400 historic and cultural sites identified along the way. Trail users might even run into the King himself, an avid mountain biker and runner whose personal example has grown the popularity of cycling here. Few visitors will complete the entire route in a single go, but day sections are accessible across the country.

Even newer than the trail is improved accessibility to the sport of fly-fishing, which has always been superb but very heavily regulated. New rules allowed the first-ever licensed guided trip for foreigners in spring 2023, through Himalayan Flyfishing Adventures (himalayanflyfishing.com). The outfitter offers both day excursions and multiday trips, and several of the country’s luxury hotels offer their own spin on the experience. Because there are so many streams and rivers but so little angling history, Bhutan’s waters are teeming with oversized brown trout, snow trout, and the big prize: the golden mahseer. Just as many saltwater fishermen consider the powerful, hard-charging tarpon the ultimate game fish, mahseer are among the strongest fighting freshwater fish in the world and can top 50 pounds. Their populations have severely dwindled in the other Asian nations that have them, while Bhutan has a vast number.

Ever since it courted foreign visitors, Bhutan has followed a slow, small-scale, and high-end path to tourism development (the opposite of what occurred in budget travel hot spots such as Kathmandu). There have always been minimum daily spending requirements, plus an extra daily sustainability fee and requirement to use local guides outside of Paro and the capital, Thimphu. But for upscale travelers these logistics are much less daunting than they have been made out to be, and anyone using better properties will easily hit all the minimums at a cost lower than or comparable to many other desirable international destinations. There is virtually nothing available but luxury hotels, as Bhutan’s strategy has been to partner with top-tier boutique brands to operate multiple lodges all over the country, promoting tourism circuits. Luxury brands Aman (aman.com), COMO Hotels and Resorts (comohotels.com), Six Senses (sixsenses.com), and Bhutanese-owned Pemako (pemakohotels.com) all operate several properties and offer packages that shuttle guests between them. Outdoor adventures and excursions include guided hikes, bike rides, rafting, fishing, horseback riding, and archery.

The latest name-brand entrant into the market may be the best example, luxury safari specialist andBeyond (andbeyond .com), which arrived in fall 2023. Punakha River Lodge is its first resort in Asia, and features swank individual villas and luxury tented camps, just eight in total, on par with the best of Africa. It has great on-site or nearby outdoor activities, including one of the best day hikes in Bhutan, the Khamsum Yulley loop. In about three hours, starting and ending with two different metal swing bridges over a river, you climb into the mountains, visit a beautiful Buddhist monastery that is inaccessible by road, and loop back to the resort through fields of rice paddies. Along the way, don’t be surprised if the andBeyond staff surprises you with an elaborate trailside breakfast or lunch picnic they have packed on their backs. The resort offers fly-fishing excursions, whitewater rafting that ends right back at the property, many mountain biking options for all abilities, and it has a traditional Bhutanese outdoor wood-fired kitchen to offer demos and 

cooking classes. Most recently the property launched immersive guided birding packages, and plans are underway to add overnight mobile luxury camping safaris with specially equipped vehicles, just as they do in Africa.

“There’s so much to do that visitors don’t know about, so we built this place from the outside in, so you don’t feel like you have to stay on property,” said Rishi Sarma, general manager of Punakha River Lodge. “Even our outdoor showers have entrances from the outside so if you come back from mountain biking all muddy you can go right in. The bird-watching is amazing here. There’s a place about 40 minutes away where you can see the rare takin, Bhutan’s national animal. There’s a place on the river where we set up a mobile breakfast and you go see the black-necked cranes, which are rare and sacred in Bhutan. You can go see snow leopards and red panda.”

Bhutan is said to be home to the yeti, or abominable snowman, a legendary resident you are unlikely to encounter, but it also has a shocking wealth of real wildlife. Some hoteliers here, like Sarma, think African-style safaris could be the next wave of tourism, with Bengal tigers, leopards, snow leopards, elephants, red panda, monkeys, black bears, sloth bears, civets, yaks, a huge array of birds,

and the takin. “It’s only going to get better for adventure,” said Andrew Whiffen, general manager of Six Senses Bhutan, which operates five lodges throughout the country. “We had guests who came for three weeks, and in the middle of their trip camped for a few days on the Trans Bhutan Trail. We have had guests hike from our hotels in Paro to Thimphu, just over 100 miles with four nights camping. We had very passionate day hikers who did 65 miles in a week, but a lot of people still don’t realize how accessible the hiking here is.

The King is a very passionate mountain biker—he owns several world-class bikes— and when we needed one, he lent one of his own bikes to one of our guests. If you love the outdoors, hiking, and biking, I can’t think of a better place on Earth.”

A different take on the active travel approach can be found at the independent Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary (bhutanspirit sanctuary.com), an all-inclusive wellness retreat. Every stay includes consultations with doctors practicing traditional Bhutanese medicine, similar to traditional Chinese medicine, as well as daily spa treatments, yoga classes, and guided meditation. A variety of experiences are offered, with an emphasis on hiking, and some excellent routes start right

from the lodge. Activities such as Bhutanese archery, pottery making, and traditional cooking classes are also included in rates.

While the hotels are designed to keep guests within a single brand, the big change has been a recent proliferation of luxury active-travel outfitters offering elaborate guided Bhutan itineraries that cherry-pick the best lodging in each region. Butterfield & Robinson Travel (butterfield.com), inventor of the entire guided, active-travel category, offers scheduled group trips (and custom privates), with an 11-day, fully supported hiking trip staying at two different Aman properties. Backroads (backroads.com), the luxury active travel company, has an eightday hiking trip using four hotels, including the stunning Bhutanese-owned Pemako Thimphu, the capital’s grandest. Backroads also does a multi-adventure trip with biking, hiking, rafting, and archery. Red Savannah (redsavannah.com), a luxury travel company specializing in tailor-made trips, recently added several Trans Bhutan Trail itineraries (8 to 14 days) that mix luxury hotels such as COMO, Aman, and Six Senses with camping and even home stays, for the full spectrum of experiences—and experiences is what Bhutan is all about.

LOGISTICS

What to know when booking Bhutan

The main gateway for North American visitors is Bangkok, and there are just two airlines flying the final leg into Paro: Drukair (drukair.com.bt) and Bhutan Airlines (bhutanairlines.bt).

The most luxurious way to get to Bangkok is via Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com), with 12 US gateway cities and business class configured as private, one- to four-passenger Q-Suites.

You can also enter Bhutan from neighboring India, and this is usually done when combining the destination into a bigger trip with the Taj Mahal and/ or a tiger safari. For this, the best India expert specializing in Bhutan extensions is Micato Safaris (micato.com).

For an ultra-luxe bespoke adventure trip combining top guides with inside knowledge and the best lodging in every region, it’s hard to beat the acclaimed, custom-only active travel gurus at Gray & Co (grayandco.ca).

To book flights into Bhutan you need a visa, and to get a visa you need to have already booked a trip, including hotels, a guide, and transfers with a driver. Any of the luxury hotel brands, including Aman, Six Senses, andBeyond, Pemako, or COMO, can do all this for you. But if you want to mix and match hotels, or add in transportation and other logistics, the best way is to use a skilled travel advisor. In 2023 Bhutan’s Department of Tourism joined the global Virtuoso (virtuoso.com) consortium of top travel agents, so any Virtuoso member can do everything you need. Likewise, the active travel specialists offering adventure itineraries, including lodging and guiding (such as Butterfield & Robinson, Backroads, and Red Savannah) can handle the paperwork for you. u

Essential Istanbul

One of the most visited cities in the world, last year Istanbul hosted more than 20 million international travelers. Its wonders of the world, namely the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, embody the city’s ever-fascinating quality of coexisting contrasts. There’s just nowhere else like it: at the crossroads of Europe and Asia; in the throes of the Christian and Muslim religions; on the great Bosphorus Strait—a physical boundary as much as a unifying presence between its distinct sides, Asian (modern, less touristy, authentically local) and European (historically significant architecture, upscale shopping, prestigious waterfront restaurants). For as long as Istanbul has witnessed the rise and fall of empires, it has captivated globetrotters.

BY IRENE RAWLINGS

GETTING THERE

Turkish Airlines (turkishairlines.com) services 349 international destinations in 130 countries, including 14 in the United States, and near-term plans are in place to expand to 20 US gateways. Travelers can access showers and sleeping suites in its exclusive airport lounge at Istanbul Airport, as well as golf simulators, complimentary massages, and round-the-clock food service featuring made-to-order selections, pita and bagel stations, an olive buffet, and cakes galore. Onboard in business class, a chef comes by each seat to discuss the menu and take orders, and meals are

then cooked fresh. Both the meze and dessert services are wheeled down the aisles on linen-topped trolleys, allowing passengers to choose whatever (and how much) they want. In addition to lieflat seats, business-class passengers enjoy seat massagers, noise-canceling headphones, and premium wines and Champagnes. The airline also serves vishne, a tart-sweet cherry juice that is customary in Türkiye. In 2025, new business-class cabins will be gradually introduced for long-haul flights. Crystal Business Class will feature suites with lie-flat, Turkish-leather seats and sliding doors for privacy.

HOTELS TO BOOK

Opened in 2023, The Peninsula Istanbul (from $930; peninsula.com), with its 177 refined guest rooms and suites, occupies one new and three heritage buildings with Ottomaninspired architecture. Among lush, landscaped gardens, an outdoor heated pool set along the Bosphorus offers private cabanas and an outdoor dining option. At the spa, saunas, steam rooms, private treatment rooms, and two hammams allow for both traditional and modern remedies. Book the Art Suite on the third floor of the hotel’s heritage building to combine the comforts of a private apartment with the ambiance of an exclusive art gallery. In-house restaurant Gallada, helmed by the city’s reigning sultan of creative dining, Fatih Tutak, has garnered accolades for its Turk-Asian cuisine. Also, Topside Bar, reminiscent of a vintage grand yacht, is known for

its views and an impressive cocktail list. About 10 miles up the Bosphorus from the Peninsula, the 5-year-old Six Senses Kocataş Mansions (from $460; sixsenses.com) occupies a pair of stunningly renovated, stately mansions in luxuriant, waterfront gardens. Large guest rooms (there are 43 rooms and suites) have vast windows. As with all Six Senses properties, wellness is the centerpiece. Here, a holistic anti-aging center combines modern nutrition, fitness, and neuroscience with ancient knowledge. The more urban Pera Palace Hotel (from $365; perapalace.com), one of the city’s palatial, historic properties, was built in 1892 to serve the Orient Express train passengers from Europe (Agatha Christie stayed here). Restored to its original grandeur, it is evocative of a past era and could set the scene of a Wes Anderson movie. 

Clockwise: The Peninsula Istanbul and its outdoor pool; Bosphorus Suite at Six Senses Kocataş Mansions; the Pera Palace Hotel

For more about Istanbul: Go Türkiye (goturkiye.com). For more about private travel experiences: Black Tomato (blacktomato.com). MUST DO

Sail the Bosphorus at sunset with a glass of Champagne in hand, as most of the waterfront, five-star hotels have private yachts and offer sunset (or anytime) cruises. Enjoy a traditional Turkish hammam—a centuries-old relaxing and cleansing ritual. Find the Çemberlitaş Hamami (cemberlitashamami.com) near the Grand Bazaar. The bathhouse was built in 1584 and is among the city’s most famous. Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamami (kilicalipasahamami.com) has classical architecture, ornate domes, and a higher-end hammam ritual. Minimal and serene, Zeyrek Çinili Hamam (zeyrekcinilihamam.com) is an early Ottoman-era masterpiece that reopened last year after a 13-year restoration.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Founded by Russians fleeing the Bolshevik Revolution, 1924 Istanbul (1924istanbul.com) looks like an elaborate set for the epic film Doctor Zhivago. Try the 1924 tasting menu and the blini with caviar washed down with ice-cold vodka. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founding father of the Republic of Türkiye, was a loyal client. Homey, Michelin-bib-gourmand-rated restaurant Cuma (cuma.cc) in the Çukurcuma neighborhood keeps its breezy terrace open all day, serving a traditional Turkish breakfast and a Mediterraneaninspired lunch or dinner. Street food is an essential and beloved aspect of Turkish cuisine and Basta! Street Food Bar (bastafood.com), a small storefront in Kadıköy, reflects this. Its vibrant turquoise counter, tiled floor, and stylish

stools give it more of a hip café look rather than that of a typical kebab establishment. For fine dining, book The Sarnıç (sarnicrestaurant.com), located inside of an ancient water cistern with giant columns and a domed ceiling, and enjoy entrées from an Ottomaninspired menu. For another type of traditional Turkish experience, spend some time at the hammam before having lunch at Lokanta 1741 (lokanta1741 .com), tucked away inside the world-famous Cağaloğlu Hammam. For a taste of the traditional food culture, book a private Culinary Backstreets (culinarybackstreets.com) walking tour with stops at small restaurants and artisan food shops. Make sure to visit confectioner Hacı Bekir (hacibekir.com)—in business

since 1777—for a taste of Turkish delight and three different kinds of sherbet to drink. At the end of the day, retreat to a rooftop bar to toast the sunset. Mikla Bar (themarmarahotels.com), on a terrace atop the Marmara Pera Hotel, offers remarkable views of Istanbul. The adjacent Michelin-star restaurant is the domain of chef Mehmet Gürs, who serves his modern take on Anatolian cuisine. Ernest Hemingway inspired Ernest’s Bar (cokcokpera.com), located in a Thai restaurant in a former American consulate building, led by acclaimed bartender Fatih Akerdem. Writers Bar (raffles.com), inside the Raffles Istanbul Hotel, is an elegant, modern speakeasy with tall drinks and DJs spinning dance tracks into the night.

1924 Istanbul

Courtesy Images, Clockwise

PLACES TO SHOP

First-timers must visit the six-century Grand Bazaar—over 4,000 shops packed to the rafters with tea sets, evil-eye ornaments, backgammon boards, and water pipes (a great place to buy souvenirs). Serious shoppers seek out Sivasli Yazmaci for luxurious new and vintage textiles; Iznik Works, a one-stop shop for the ceramics and the traditional painted tiles that Türkiye is famous for; and Ethnicon, where vintage kilims are restitched to create one-of-a-kind patchwork rugs and pillows. At the nearby Spice Bazaar (built in 1664) buy traditional sweets and dark-as-night Turkish coffee beans. (Tip: Climb a narrow stairway to the tile-lined Pandeli for lunch. The food is simple, wellprepared, and delicious.) Çukurcuma is a charming neighborhood packed with artist studios and antique shops—a local favorite is store-cum-museum

A La Turca. The neighborhood of

Cihangir has narrow, shaded streets, sidewalk cafés, top-quality vintage shops, and edgy art galleries. Horhor Antiques Bazaar in Aksaray (another great neighborhood for antiques and vintage) is the biggest antiques market in Türkiye—six floors, 220 shops. For more retail therapy: 3C Taki is a gorgeous bauble boutique where classic motifs are reinterpreted—prayer beads become statement necklaces, for example. Fey brings together its own clothing label along with vintage items like 1930s shift dresses paired with locally made leather bags. Everything is handpicked by owner Fatoş Yalın Arkun, long-time publishing director of Marie Claire Turkey. Stop at Miniko Vintage for high-end designer pieces like Bottega Veneta intrecciato handbags, Christian Louboutin redsoled stilettos, and maybe a Fortuny gown from 1909 or a Chanel tweed suit from 1954.

SITES TO SEE (AND SOME LESSER-KNOWN MUSEUMS)

Of course, you should visit architectural wonders: Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Hippodrome, the Basilica Cistern, and the sprawling Topkapi Palace Museum (built in the 15th century as the residence of the Ottoman sultans; don’t miss the opulent 400-room harem). At the Imperial Treasury you can see the emerald-studded Topkapi dagger and an eye-popping 86-carat diamond. (Visit first thing in the morning to beat the crowds.) Then, head over to the mall-like Galataport Istanbul (galataport. com) cruise ship terminal and the Istanbul Modern (istanbulmodern. com), located within a warehouse renovated by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Renzo Piano, to see contemporary art by domestic artists. Have lunch in the museum’s sleek café or the nearby Liman Istanbul, which is famous for its open-firecooked meats and wood-oven-

cooked fish. The Museum of Innocence (masumiyetmuzesi .org) was created by Turkish novelist and Nobel laureate Orhan Pamuk and is dedicated to the memories from daily life described in the author’s eponymous novel. Its memorable setting is a former palace with beautiful gardens overlooking the Bosphorus. Sakıp Sabancı Museum (sakipsabancimuzesi .org) showcases the private collection of the late industrialist and visiting exhibitions of artists such as Pablo Picasso (including works on loan from the artist’s family) as well as David Hockney’s iPad paintings. Up the Bosphorus in Büyükdere, Sariyer, Sadberk Hanim Museum (sadberkhanimmuzesi.org.tr) has an exquisite collection of porcelain wares, jewelry, and textiles—spectacular overstitched brocades, Ottoman finery, silk throws, and rugs. u

A La Turca

Istanbul Modern

Sadberk Hanim Museum

Next-Level Lessons

If you love skiing, golf, tennis, sailing, or surfing and want to master your passion, there’s an immersion camp for you with expert instruction, standout facilities, and accommodations at luxury resorts. Also listed: the best places for first-timers who have always wanted to give these sports a try.

BY LARRY OLMSTED

Courtesy Images Clockwise

From Top Left: Jackson Hole Mountain Resort; Steve & Doris Colgate’s

SKIING & SNOWBOARDING

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

With the nation’s highest vertical drop and infamous double-black diamond trail, Corbet’s Couloir, Jackson Hole has always had the reputation of being an experts-only mountain.

But Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s multiday camps offer an opportunity for intermediate and advanced skiers and snowboarders who fearlessly want to take on the next challenge in a personalized environment. The Elevate Women’s Ski Camp, in particular, features an immersive program with a unique sense of community, support, and encouragement for those ready to push the boundaries and learn something new.

Day one is about goal setting and a focus on technical skills, working on form and control, and most importantly, breaking bad habits from years of misguided instruction. A ski-off on the first day pairs up groups of four per coach, matching ability and skill levels with goals and desires. For example, grouping those who love skiing moguls and want to be able to hit them on black diamond trails, as opposed to those who want to learn how to actually ski moguls. By day two, participants are already applying tactics. Day three raises the bar even higher exploring new terrain, such as a session in the backcountry for those groups that prove capable of handling

the deep powder and challenges of out-ofbounds skiing. It begins with a briefing on avalanche rescue and terrain management. Day four puts the finishing touches on the objectives set out at the beginning.

The program requires endurance and stamina and involves a dedication to long, hard days with early rises. Après-ski events round out each day with an energized camp banquet on the final night. Women of various ages from their 20s to 40s to 60s gather to celebrate their accomplishments and the strong spirit of camaraderie established during their struggles and successes.

Most participants stay at Teton Mountain Lodge (tetonlodge.com), but for muchneeded pampering after a hard day on the mountain, check into a plush suite at Four Seasons Resort (fourseasons.com), whose slope-side ski concierge is just steps away from the base-camp gondolas of Rendezvous Mountain. Book time at the spa for the 90-minute Golden Body Quench that treats inflammation and kneads sore muscles, plus incorporates a firming collagen facial mask. And if you can stand it, a session in the steam room then hot whirlpool followed by cold plunges is perfect for muscle recovery. jacksonhole.com

Beginners: Sun Valley, Idaho, and Stowe, Vermont Sun Valley has a small mountain, Dollar, entirely for first-time learning, with the newest-generation, terrainbased teaching techniques and no high-speed experts ripping through the lessons. When it’s time to step up, the main mountain, Baldy, is world-famous for its constant pitch, long runs with a consistent angle that are perfect for practicing carving and continuous longer radius turns. If you live in the East and don’t want to fly across the country to give skiing a try, head to Vermont’s most iconic resort, which also features two separate mountains connected by a horizontal gondola. Smaller Spruce Peak is the one for learning, and while Stowe boasts some of the most challenging double black trails in the East, Spruce is almost exclusively green and blue. Stowe is also part of Vail Resorts, which has one of the best instruction programs in the industry. stowe.com  —Deborah Frank

Beginners: Mauna Lani, an Auberge Resort, Hawaii

With nine tennis and pickleball courts, the Mauna Lani offers the Tennis 101 clinic for first-timers twice a week and hourlong fundamentals clinics for beginner and intermediate players twice daily. No experience is required for the 90-minute pickleball round robins with instruction that are offered four days a week, and first-timer pickleball clinics are held every morning, with private instruction available on demand. The resort has private beachfront residences and estates in addition to luxury rooms and suites. aubergeresorts.com

TENNIS & PICKLEBALL

JW Marriott Desert Springs Resort & Spa, Palm Desert, California

Home to the annual BNP Paribas Open in March and myriad luxury resorts with first-rate court facilities, the Palm Springs region has long been a global hotbed for tennis vacations, and more recently for pickleball, a sport that has exploded in popularity. But no property here takes this further than the JW Marriott, with an extensive racquet club that includes 13 courts and three surfaces (grass, clay, and hard), a combination rarely found under one roof, along with eight new pickleball courts. The tennis center is managed by acclaimed, worldwide instructional leader Peter Burwash International, and the resort hosts several scheduled adult Burwash tennis camps each year (typically April, November, and December). The five-day camps include two three-hour

clinics in the mornings and again after lunch, focusing on fundamentals, point play, and tournament play, utilizing all three surfaces. When there are no camps, the resort offers 90-minute clinics five days a week, and private instruction whenever you want it. The JW Marriott is so popular with tennis players that they guarantee guest matching to your ability or will provide a free private lesson if they fail to find a suitable partner. Several of the outdoor tennis and pickleball courts are lighted for night play and offer both scheduled clinics and private instruction. The full-service shop supplies everything from new gear to restringing, and when you’re not rallying, the expansive resort features a large spa, multiple pools, and a 36-hole golf club. experiencecdt.com

SAILING

J/World Sailing School, Multiple Locations

More than four decades ago, J/World launched mainly for boat racing, and while it has expanded into just about every facet of sailing, offering everything from intro schools to certification programs for bareboat charters, they have stayed true to their high-performance roots, offering learning options for even highly experienced sailors. If you sail but haven’t raced, the five-day Intro to Racing is great for both giving racing a try and sharpening handling and nautical skills. The next level up is Advanced Yacht Racing, also five days and taught on J/80 sailboats with a maximum of 4:1 instructor-to-student ratios. At the highest level, they offer hands-on participation in some major races on a 50-foot boat, limited to six students with three instructors for a

2:1 ratio during the actual offshore competition. Opportunities include the Los Angeles-to-Hawaii “Transpac”; Newport Beach, California, to Cabo, Mexico; San Diego to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico; and others. They are so popular for racing that the five-day classes are offered just about every week, as opposed to many sports boot camps held once or a few times each year.

In addition, they offer a slate of weekend schools for experienced sailors including Advanced Boat Handling, Performance Cruising, and Liveaboard Cruising. Unlike the best golf and ski schools, the best sailing academies do not tend to be resort-based and operate at multiple locations. J/World teaches from a trio of campuses in San Francisco, San Diego, and Puerto Vallarta. sailing-jworld.com

Beginners: Steve & Doris Colgate’s Offshore Sailing School

Founded in 1964 by Olympian, America’s Cup racer, and sailing Hall of Famer Steve Colgate, Offshore Sailing claims to be America’s oldest such program, and it’s hard to argue with its success. More than 160,000 people have learned with them at several locations in Florida and the British Virgin Islands. The jumpingoff point is Offshore Sailing School 101, a three-day course after which you should be comfortable sailing on your own in boats as big as 30 feet. But if you really want to dive in, their Fast Track to Cruising course combines the first two days of this with the next two certification levels (Basic Cruising 103 and Bareboat Cruising 104) in an eight-day immersion—after which you’ll be ready to charter yachts up to 50 feet on worldwide sailing vacations. offshoresailing.com 

GOLF

The

Kingdom at Reynolds Lake Oconee, Georgia

Some schools excel with expert teaching, others with instructional technology, and some just have a perfect setting for learning. No place combines all these quite like the golf and lake community of Reynolds Lake Oconee. There is also a Ritz-Carlton hotel, rental homes and cottages, and six high-end resort courses by Jack Nicklaus, Rees Jones, and Tom Fazio.

But the heart and soul is a dedicated teaching center attached to one of the best custom club fitting facilities, used by PGA and LPGA tour pros. The academy has indoor and outdoor hitting bays with Trackman launch monitors and all the best

video and computer swing analysis equipment, plus multiple putting and chipping greens. The lead instructor is longtime PGA Tour player Blake Adams, who has a unique gift for seeing and speaking golf at the level of a layperson, even though he teaches upand-coming professionals. The old school of golf instruction tried to get everyone to swing the same way and often failed, while Adams takes a modern, highly individualized biomechanical approach based on your natural movements and range of motion. He also has a system for quickly improving putting and chipping—where amateurs lose many strokes.

The schools here are exceptional, and

the most popular is the two-day Energize, offering two half-days of instruction (then you can play 18 holes) and a maximum 3:1 student-to-teacher ratio. This can be upgraded to the Energize Tour Experience, adding an invaluable nine-hole on-course playing lesson with Adams, something you are not going to experience elsewhere. If you are a low handicapper looking for a smaller edge, the two-day Scoring School is the elite option. After dialing in your swing, you can take advantage of the Kingdom, TaylorMade’s flagship high-tech club fitting facility, for clubs to maximize your game. reynoldslakeoconee.com

Beginners: The Nemacolin Golf Academy, Farmington, Pennsylvania The state-of-the-art golf academy was completely renovated as part of a recent, half-billion-dollar upgrade to this massive luxury resort. In addition to the teaching bays, there’s a rare, entirely outdoor, Trackman-equipped driving range, and if there’s a useful tool for teaching golf, they’ve probably bought it. The unique New Golfer Bootcamps are three-hour programs for first-timers and can be followed with Intermediate Bootcamps, or a three-day intensive golf school, limited to three students at a time. nemacolin.com

Courtesy Images From Left: Nemacolin Golf Academy; Kingdom Golf School/Kelly Kline.

Opposite: Courtesy Tropicsurf

SURFING

Tropicsurf, COMO Maalifushi Resort, Maldives

Australia-based global instruction specialist Tropicsurf has long been the leader in high-end private surf instruction, with expert teachers contracted to run the schools at many Four Seasons, One&Only, COMO, Anantara, and Six Senses resorts. But in 2024 they launched a new concept called Progression Vacations, an intensive improvement week using a 10-level pedagogy developed by company founder Ross Phillips, also creator of the Surfbetter 100 digital program. Phillips took the progression model based upon principles from modern ski instruction and applied his teaching methodology garnered from 30 years of experience to create a structured progression program for surfing.

The new weeklong surfing boot camps are fittingly called Surf Progression Vacations and include daily use of video

analysis. They are headed by instructor Ryley Haskell and a team of senior coaches, adding bodywork and yoga classes along with top-shelf equipment that makes advancement easier. The new camps launch with a September edition at COMO Maalifushi, which offers a unique setup near more than 20 lesser-visited surf breaks strung across three outer atolls, accessed by high-speed boats. Surf Progression Vacations will then be rolled out at a selection of various resorts that Tropicsurf serves across Mexico, Nicaragua, Bali, Fiji, Australia, the Seychelles, St. Barth, and Costa Rica, as well as on-demand private trips and yacht-based charters. Otherwise, the company continues to offer quality private instruction for all levels including advanced surfers at each of the resorts it services. tropicsurf.com

Beginners: Jamie O’Brien

Surf Experience, Hotel del Coronado, San Diego

Many first-timers opt for a single-day lesson at novice hot spots such as Waikiki Beach and La Jolla, California. For a full-blown, learn-to-surf vacation, it’s hard to beat the iconic “Del,” one of the only resorts in the country with an in-house surfing school. The beach offers consistent, gentle waves perfect for learning, and from mid-April until the end of the year, daily lessons are regularly available with skilled instructors handpicked and trained by Jamie O’Brien, a legendary pro big-wave surfer. Small group (4:1), private group, and one-on-one lessons are offered from 90 minutes, with top-quality boards in a wide range of sizes. hoteldel.com u

Get in the Game

How to play where the pros play.

BY LARRY OLMSTED

Teeing it up in the footsteps of the stars has always been a big part of golf travel, but ironically, there is a huge disconnect between what you see on television and what you see when you show up at Pebble Beach or Harbour Town. Most of the year, resort courses are benign, but in the ramp-up to big tournaments, they let the rough grow thicker than amateurs ever experience, narrow the fairways, and speed up greens dramatically. The course the pros play is markedly different from the same course experienced by golfers on vacation, but this contrast is just the tip of the iceberg. The pros also play in front of spectators, while for many amateurs the biggest gallery their nerves have had to contend with was their spouse.

If you enjoy playing and watching golf, the dream is to play in a pro-amateur event, because this is the only way you will ever experience the game on the level you see from your couch. It’s also unique to the sport, as no one is going to let you take the field with Aaron Judge and the team at Yankee Stadium or play doubles with the Williams sisters on Wimbledon’s Centre Court. Golf is the one sport where you can play the most famous courses in the world, in tournament conditions, with the very best players. Just going to the driving range and warming up next to recognizable champions is special, and being “inside the ropes” is an unforgettable experience, and that’s only part of the fun of playing in a pro-am.

The biggest highlight is the pro, the opportunity to be regaled with anecdotes from a life on tour, and to ask every question you have about golf. Other professional athletes love pro-ams, so you might get a bonus of playing with a football or basketball legend. The events are friendly team

competitions with a best ball or scramble format, and most pros—and their tour caddies—generously assist you with reading putts and giving instruction. US Open champion and Hall of Famer Tom Kite is known for giving impromptu putting lessons and swing tips, while Masters champion and former world No. 1 Fred Couples has jumped into greenside bunkers to show amateur partners how to play an explosion shot. Players are happy to autograph balls or hats, and given the number of corporate participants, many use pro-ams as networking opportunities and keep in touch with their amateur partners long after the round.

“I absolutely love pro-ams,” says Jon Rahm, the US Open and Masters champion and recent world No. 1. “I’ve made friends in pro-

ams I still talk to; it’s just a great opportunity to meet new people. For amateurs, if you get the opportunity to go to a pro-am, I would say you absolutely should, because you’re going to see a couple of things. First, you’re going to realize how much better professional golfers are in person. That’s just how it is, you realize the truth about the sport. Second, you get to see the golf course from our perspective, and you’re going to see the crowds and get a bit of the experience we have. And third, you get to know the people that you watch on

TV. You get one of those 18-hole pro-ams, four or five hours, you’re going to talk about a lot of things. I would encourage people to participate in pro-ams if they can. It doesn’t matter how good or bad you are. You’re there to have a good time and so are we. I know I’m training, practicing, but mostly I’m there to entertain the people I’m with.”

The highlight is the 18-hole round, but there is a lot more fun beyond the course. Most pro-ams have a “pairing party” the night before, where amateurs find out who their pro partner is. Some pairings are randomly assigned and sometimes there’s a draft lottery and each foursome gets to pick a pro when their name is called. At one of the most prestigious pro-ams, the PGA Tour’s season-opening Sentry tournament, a putting contest among the amateurs determines playing partners. Recently, the PGA Tour implemented a new format for many pro-ams where amateurs switch partners at the turn, playing nine holes each with two different pros for double the experience.

Pro-am entries always include a gift bag with logo wear from the event, balls, clothing, and accessories that can range from high-end sunglasses and golf shoes to flasks, luggage, humidors, and custom putters or drivers. The value of gift bags can run into the four figures, and the best pro-ams have gifting suites or certificates where you choose your own “presents.”

The crème de la crème of pro-ams add an extra-round am-am the day before, and these often attract golf-obsessed professional athletes and coaches from the NFL, NBA, MLB, and NHL. Along the way are cocktail parties and VIP lunches; almost universally, amateur participants have access to the otherwise shuttered clubhouse to eat and drink in the refuge of the pros. Admission includes a fistful of tickets to the actual tournaments following the pro-am, 

sometimes with access to VIP areas. The proam round might last five hours, but for many participants, it’s a weeklong experience, with festivities starting a day or two earlier and lasting for days afterward.

There are pro-ams on the PGA, LPGA, Champions, DP World (European), and LIV tours, but not all are created equally. The more prestigious the tournament, the bigger (and more expensive) the associated pro-am is in terms of inclusions. Some, like the famous Pebble Beach Celebrity Pro-Am, are by invitation only, while others are mainly for corporate sponsors. But there are many pro-ams any individual golf fan can enter, and now there are more than ever, with the recent addition of the LIV Tour and expansion of new events with the PGA Tour stopping in tournaments in Mexico, the Dominican Republic, South Carolina, Bermuda, and Utah, all with pro-ams.

The PGA Tour events are the hardest to get a big-name playing partner and the bragging rights associated with that, because the fields are so large and often top players are locked up in advance by sponsors. Many pro-am fans prefer the Champions Tour, as the seniors are traditionally the most fun and outgoing because they have no cut to worry about and they’ve been doing it a long time. You also have a better chance of drawing the famous name of a Major champion or Hall of Famer in a Champions Tour event than on the PGA Tour. Finally, some of their Majors, such as the Senior PGA Championship and Senior British Open, have pro-ams, while no Majors (or other biggies like the Player’s

Championship or TOUR Championship) on the PGA Tour do. Because the tournaments are just three days, the Champions Tour doubles down and holds two pro-ams, Wednesday and Thursday. LPGA players are also famously friendly, and the tour offers a great pro-am experience on world-class courses for a lower price.

The LIV Tour has shaken up golf, and takes a different approach to pro-ams, with the players more front and center. Like on the Champions Tour, they are paid not to perform but just to show up, which seems to increase their outgoing nature. They also come to the pre-game pairing parties, a rarity for PGA Tour players, and mingle more, while these parties are amped up with lasers, fireworks, and music, which continues onto the course. LIV’s motto is “Golf, but louder,” with a more festive, carnival atmosphere, but the biggest difference is that there is a higher percentage of famous names in the smaller fields, and the top players participate in every tournament, unlike the PGA Tour where many of the best skip lesser events. This, coupled with less corporate sponsorship, means your chance of going home with a story of playing with a famous partner like Jon Rahm, Dustin Johnson, Bryson DeChambeau, or Brooks Koepka is greater. On the other hand, many events are overseas, and the ones in North America tend to be on less prestigious courses, while the preparation in terms of rough and greens speed is far less dramatic.

But whatever tour you choose, the bottom line is that for a golf fan, playing in a pro-am is an unforgettable experience, and can be the cornerstone of a fantasy golf vacation.

The Best Pro-Ams You Can Play In

With no pro-ams at the Majors, the most prestigious PGA Tour options are the biggest regular season events, especially the Waste Management Phoenix Open, the most attended golf tournament in the world; the RBC Heritage at Hilton Head’s Harbour Town, which is the week after the Masters and draws top international players staying on after Augusta; and the season-opening Sentry. Because this event is limited to 59 players (previous-year winners and world top 30 players), it is starstudded; past champions include Tiger Woods, Jack Nicklaus, Ernie Els, and Jon Rahm. Here’s the complete rundown with per-person pricing.

The Phoenix Open (wmphoenixopen.com) has an extra Monday pro-am that is more accessible ($7,000) than the main Wednesday one ($15,000). The RBC Heritage (rbcheritage .com) also has Monday ($4,000) and Wednesday ($7,500) pro-ams that both sell out and have waiting lists.

With its A-list roster and paradise setting, Maui’s Sentry (thesentry.com) is arguably the best, and includes a Tuesday am-am on Kapalua’s Bay Course, with Wednesday’s main event on the top 100–ranked Plantation Course. Food, parties, gifting, and everything else is top-notch, and the on-site Ritz-Carlton offers vacation packages. The hotel’s former longtime General Manager Andrew Rogers (a former PGA teaching pro himself) says, “What makes this event special is that it’s a very elite and small field, giving a personal touch and feeling to all the events. It’s like a private party for the participants and guests.”

The Shriners Children’s Open (shrinerschildrensopen.com) at TPC Summerlin in Las Vegas adds Vegas flair and attracts celebrities, and the Wednesday package ($8,000) includes a night at the host hotel (last year the Cosmopolitan) after the pairing party.

The most accessible and least expensive PGA Tour pro-ams are the newer ones, most priced under $5,000. The Puerto Rico Open (puertoricoopen.golf) offers a lot of quality courses near the tournament for rounding out a tropical golf vacation ($15,000/four-player team). The newest additions include the Myrtle

Beach Classic (myrtlebeachclassic.com), Corales Puntacana Championship (puntacana.com) in the Dominican Republic, World Wide Technology Open (wwtchampionship.com) in Los Cabos, Mexico, on the first public course designed by Tiger Woods, and Butterfield Bermuda Championship (butterfieldbdachampionship .com) at Bermuda’s famed Port Royal Golf Course, which has a vacation-style package including three nights at the Hamilton Princess and an extra round at the private, prestigious Mid-Ocean Club ($25,000/foursome).

There’s the new Black Desert Classic (blackdesertchampionshipmens.com) in St. George, Utah, which is also adding a new LPGA tournament in 2025.

Like the PGA Tour does with the Sentry, the Champions Tour kicks off its season in Hawaii with a prestigious, limited field of past winners at the Mitsubishi Electric Championship (mecgolf.com) at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai. But this one is special with a two-day pro-am ($13,000) that includes 18 daily holes with two different pros. The Champions close out the season with the Charles Schwab Cup Championship (charlesschwabcupchampionship.com) at the Phoenix Country Club, another limited-field, star-studded event ($20,000/foursome).

On the LIV Tour (livgolf.com), pro-ams cost $7,500–$10,500 and the best option is Mexico’s Mayakoba ($10,500), held at the luxury resort complex of exceptional resorts and a great golf course that also hosted the PGA Tour. Other standouts include Las Vegas and Spain’s top course: Ryder Cup venue Valderrama.

The ShopRite LPGA Classic (shopritelpgaclassic.com) in Atlantic City, New Jersey, claims the world’s largest pro-am, a rare two-day event spread across multiple courses. The LPGA has pro-ams at some of its majors, including the KPMG Women’s PGA Championship (kpmgwomenspgachampionship.com). The new T-Mobile Match Play presented by MGM Resorts (mgmresorts.com) is on one of the most coveted and highly ranked courses on Earth, Las Vegas’ Shadow Creek. u

The Ultimate Chefs Tables

Food festivals in top resort destinations present authentic connections with celebrity chefs and a bounty of culinary experiences to turn any non-foodie into a gourmand.

BY JORGE S. ARANGO

A five-day culinary extravaganza that began 16 years ago featuring international and Caribbean cuisine, the Cayman Cookout has grown significantly from its small beginnings with its three founding chefs, Eric Ripert, José Andrés, and Anthony Bourdain. “It was just chefs hanging out,” says Ripert. “We were doing dinners and classes as a way to do something nice for the island after the holidays. The second year it became a mini festival, and we were thinking, this is really fun.” The event grew bit by bit each year, yet still managed to maintain its intimacy.

“We have specific events for just 15 people to 60-person lunches and dinners to a dance party on the beach for 500,” says Ripert, who emphasizes the importance of quality control

CAYMAN COOKOUT

January 15–20, 2025

The Ritz-Carlton, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

Capacity: 500

Vibe: Master-class partying

Star Chefs: Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin and the resort’s acclaimed restaurant, Blue; José Andrés of Jaleo and Zaytinya; Emeril and EJ Lagasse of Emeril’s; Daniel Boulud of Daniel and Le Pavillon; Kristen Kish of Arlo Grey, Austin; TV personalities Andrew Zimmern and Lauren O’Brien

and a personal, hands-on approach to preserve that intimate experience for both new and returning participants.

The Cookout brings in new talent each year while also inviting back many chefs and guests who have attended before to maintain a balance of fresh faces and familiar connections. Chefs and staff mingle with guests in a weeklong party atmosphere. The 144-acre tropical setting of the luxuriously renovated Ritz-Carlton hotel with its iconic white-sand Seven Mile Beach provides a bucolic private island vibe that exudes exclusivity. In addition to immersive workshops, cooking demos, epicurean escapades, rare wine and spirits tastings, chef-curated lunches, poolside soirées, and

legacy events like the Marriott Bonvoy Visa Credit Card by Chase Barefoot BBQ and Rum & Robusto, the Ritz-Carlton will offer several ultra-exclusive experiences, such as an adventurous Lionfish Cull outing with Chef Andrés or playful matches of pickleball and petanqué alongside other chefs. The festival will culminate in the Grand Finale Dinner at Blue by Chef Ripert.

The Ritz-Carlton’s Cayman Cookout package starts at $2,400 per night for two guests with a five-night minimum stay required. Individual tickets are available on the festival’s website (caymancookout.com).

For more information and bookings, visit: https://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/ caribbean/grand-cayman. 

TASTE OF LOVANGO

May 1–4, 2025

Lovango Resort & Beach Club, St. John, Virgin Islands of the United States

Capacity: 60–200, depending on the dinner format

Vibe: Super relaxed

Star Chefs: Brian Arruda of Executive Chefs at Home; Sam Choy of Sam Choy’s Kai Lanai, Hawaii; Alessandra Ciuffo of @flavorsbyale; Tiffani Faison of Big Heart Hospitality, Boston; Robbie Felice of Osteria Crescendo, Westwood, New Jersey; Brad Kilgore of Kilgore Culinary Group, Miami; Ryan O’Sullivan of Solstice, Palm Beach, Florida; Gerald Sombright of the Dunes of Naples, Florida; Allen Susser of Green Fig and Lionfish cookbook; Kyle McKnight of Lovango Resort

Relatively new on the food festival scene, Taste of Lovango pulled some impressive talent last year for its second-annual event. This is the food festival for when you need a vacation from food festivals. When it comes to the schedule of events, think Caribbean chill. The cooking demos won’t start before noon. Although no activity is required, it is strongly encouraged to stroll Crescent Beach, snorkel, charter an island hop to other US and British Virgin Islands, and lounge by the pool. As the festival gets going, check out events such as last year’s goodnatured poké verses ceviche takedown between chefs Sam “The King of Poke” Choy and Allen “The Ponce de León of New Floridian Cooking” Susser.

The first evening is dedicated to a street fair–style assembly of booths ringing the small beach by the pool and serving smallbite samples by all the participating chefs. The second and third nights are sit-down, multicourse dinners with teams of chefs presenting different courses. The resort collaborates with local wine distributors on

wine pairings for each course. Brian Arruda outdid himself with a scallop-and-hearts-ofpalm dish simmered in kaffir lime cream and drizzled with ramp oil. On the final night, Tiffani Faison, chef/owner of five Boston-area restaurants, managed a lobster bake served at a communal table that, in addition to the crustacean of honor, included jerk chicken, whole grilled fish, side salads and dishes, desserts, and elaborate cocktails for each course prepared by Lovango’s own Kyle McKnight.

The resort itself has its own charms, starting with its range of accommodations that includes villas, glamping tents, and tree houses, plus new construction that will yield capacity for 70–80 additional guests next year. Many of the staff are young and enthusiastic, and several are longtime employees that travel between all three Little Gem resorts, which include the Massachusetts properties Nantucket Hotel & Resort and Winnetu Oceanside Resort in Martha’s Vineyard. Tickets from $1,100/person for all four days; accommodations from $995/ night; lovangovi.com/taste-of-lovango

FISH TO FORK

May 15–18, 2025

Omni Amelia Island Resort, Amelia Island, Florida

Capacity: 400

Vibe: Fun and fabulous

Star Chefs: Omar Collazo of Omni Amelia Island Resort; Robyn Almodovar of Timbr, Fort Lauderdale, Florida; Sam Fore of Tuk Tuk Snack Shop, Lexington, Kentucky; Steven Goff of Tastee Diner, Asheville, North Carolina; Jasmine Norton of the Urban Oyster, Baltimore, Maryland; Jonathan Zaragoza of Birrieria Zaragoza, Chicago

As food festivals go, this one, nine years running, has got to be one of the most fun. Not only is the fare mind-blowing, but with the VIP package you get to spend time with the chefs and help catch the fish that you will eventually eat. The property is beautiful and lush, with a variety of venues that are mostly within walking distance (a couple events are off-site). The first night, chefs (mainly from the Southeast region) draw from a bowl to find out whether they will be assigned to a charter boat that will take them deep-sea fishing, trolling the salt marshes, or backwater fishing. Attendees can choose which experience they want to join, and whatever is caught that day is transformed by the chefs into a signature dish that attendees vote on at a street fair–style setup on the grounds. You can opt to skip the fishing expedition, but where’s the fun in that? Later that night, the chefs divide into teams of three each for a little friendly competition.

Each team creates a dish from available ingredients and one secret ingredient that’s revealed just before the high-pressure timed face-off. At the end, attendees again cast their votes for the winning dish and a winning team is selected.

Other events include a meal with beer pairing at a local brewery and an inventively served dinner at the resort’s wedding venue, which is tucked into green salt marshes at sunset. There’s also a farm lunch at the property’s Sprouting Project, where much of what’s served is grown on-site and you can talk to beekeepers, gardeners, and others involved in providing the farm-to-table foods you’ll eat. A variety of price points allows participants to pay for more or less access—tickets for the competition meal cost $209, and for full participation, including lodging, were priced last year from $3,595. omnihotels.com/hotels/ameliaisland/things-to-do/fish-to-fork 

Taste and Tee

December 5–8, 2024

XIII Punta Mita Gourmet & Golf, Nayarit, Mexico

Capacity: 160, golf tournament; 300, entire event

Vibe: Golfer’s heaven Star Chefs: Charles Phan of The Slanted Door, San Francisco; Federico Fernández of Bianca, Los Angeles and Saudi Arabia; Héctor Leyva of Héctor’s Kitchen, Punta Mita, Mexico; Thierry Blouet of Café des Artistes, Puerto Vallarta, Mexico; Sam Choy of Sam Choy’s Kai Lanai, Hawaii; Leslie Durso of Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita, Mexico, and Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore, Santa Barbara, California

Why forego the links for fabulous food when you can enjoy both in Punta Mita?

The weekend combines the American Express Golf Cup, which is hosted at two Punta Mita Jack Nicklaus signature golf courses (Bahia and Pacifico) on Banderas Bay. Players start by warming up at the Punta Mita Golf Club and then head into a two-person scramble at Bahia or a two-person best ball at Pacifico. Festival events feature exceptional and creative Mexican cuisine, cooking classes, and samplings of tequila, mezcal, and wine, all held at various venues within the Punta Mita resort community. These

include St. Regis Punta Mita (marriott .com), the Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita (fourseasons.com/puntamita), and El Surf Club (puntamita.com). Everything is prepared by either the six host chefs of the resorts and/or a who’s who of worldrenowned culinary luminaries (almost 15 for the festival’s 13th installment). Plus, non-golfers take heart: If you’re not into the game, you can partake of many resort activities, including whale watching (December is prime season), snorkeling, scuba diving, windsurfing, and fishing. Packages from $1,450; puntamitagourmetandgolf.com

The St. Moritz Gourmet Festival

January 27–February 1, 2025

St. Moritz, Switzerland

Capacity: 20-person dinners up to 380-person events

Vibe: Old world

Star Chefs: Jean-Philippe

Blondet of Alain Ducasse, London; Emmanuel Renaut of Flocons de Sel, Megève, France; Hideaki Sato of Ta Vie, Hong Kong; Julien Royer of Odette, Singapore; Tristin Farmer of Zén, Singapore; Juan Amador of Restaurant Amador, Vienna

This is one of the granddaddies of food festivals, established in 1994 and attracting some of the best chefs in the world. This past winter’s extravaganza featured a roster with three-starred Michelin masters. Events are held in various hotels in this famous Alpine ski resort in Switzerland’s Engadin Valley. Events range from wine and Champagne tastings to a mountaintop brunch with views of the St. Moritz peaks to intimate “Four-Hands” dinners (which pair chefs to prepare you exquisite six-course meals). The most highly coveted tickets are for the various Porsche Gourmet Safaris, where diners

graze from hotel to hotel sampling various courses throughout the night. Sponsors have included Europe’s crème de la crème: Porsche, Valser, Laurent-Perrier, Martel, to name just a few.

The final program of events, as well as the stable of illustrious chefs, is announced in October. Tickets to events go on sale in November and are purchased individually (rather than included in packages like other festivals), generally priced from $175 to $500. While not wining and dining, festival goers can indulge in plenty of skiing and other winter outdoor activities. www.stmoritz-gourmetfestival.ch u

Redefining Fine Dining

From maintaining their own sustainable farms to building culinary hotels, six chefs offer insight into what the fine dining landscape might become as a legendary restaurant prepares to close its doors this winter.

BY BROOKE MAZUREK

In January 2023, chef René Redzepi announced that within two years he would be closing Noma, his restaurant in Copenhagen that helped define an ultra-high-end, locally foraged style of cuisine that has transformed the fine dining landscape over the past two decades. Given that the restaurant had landed at the top of The World’s 50 Best list five times over and Redzepi was at the top of his game, the announcement came as something of a shock. Are we seeing the death of fine dining? media outlets wondered.

Restaurants keep notoriously thin profit margins and Redzepi’s decision came with a declaration in The New York Times that fine dining at the highest level, with its grueling hours and intense workplace culture, was simply “unsustainable.” Before the restaurant began paying its interns in October 2022, it was recruiting 20–30 unpaid interns to work alongside its 34 paid chefs to craft the $500/ person tasting menu.

“Back in the day [fine dining] was what the Michelin Guide told us. That was something we always looked up to into our

twenties,” says Mads Refslund, 47, the chef who cofounded and then left Noma 19 years ago. “You just had to work nonstop, and that was the Michelin way.”

At ILIS, the year-old wood-fired kitchen in Brooklyn that he spent eight years dreaming about, the ingredients are of the highest caliber (he spent three years cultivating relationships with local farmers), the service is a central focus (“you feel that you have not a butler—but a service in front of you that you don’t get other places”), and the price point is elevated (the Market Menu is $195; the 12-course Field Guide Menu, $325). These things, Refslund says, are part of what shapes a fine dining experience—but how to define what fine dining is right now?

“I don’t know exactly what that world is anymore,” he says. “And we don’t need to have the answer right now.”

What is clear is that a system is the sum of its parts, and in this case, it is the chefs who will ultimately shape what it becomes. In the weeks leading up to Noma’s closure, LUXURY MAGAZINE spoke with six of the world’s culinary leaders. 

Clockwise from above: Charcuterie at Appellation Healdsburg; Chef Mads Refslund’s asparagus dish; Vespertine in LA; blackberry tamal with garambullos at Rosetta; trout at Kitchen Table. Opposite: Hot smoking salmon at Kadeau.

Squid at Chef Jordan Kahn’s Vespertine

Chef Jordan Kahn

After a four-year closure, Kahn’s experimental Los Angeles restaurant Vespertine, housed inside of the Eric Owen Moss–designed Waffle Building, reopened in April. The menu, which Kahn conceptualizes like a music album, helped him retain his two-Michelin-star rating.

Current Inspiration

“Nature is how we tap into our original source code. So if I want to get the most authentic version of my creativity, I need to be in nature for extended periods of time. The last menu that I wrote for Vespertine was in Nayarit, in a jungle in Mexico.”

Post-Pandemic Shifts

“Vespertine 1.0 started in the head and 2.0 has moved into the body, into the heart. Once we start to turn our modern brains off and connect with the body, the things that happen are miraculous and that’s where we put a lot of emphasis in our cuisine. The food, the service, the ingredients create an experience where, by the end of it, you felt a lot of sensations and moods. It’s about feeling your food first and tasting it second.”

What If There Were No Rankings?

“They’re not part of our framework. We were invited to the Michelin Guide ceremony, and that was an extraordinary honor. But these things do not play a role in our process whatsoever. They’re a part of our culture.”

Chef James Knappett

Knappett cofounded London’s twoMichelin-starred Kitchen Table in 2012 with his wife, sommelier Sandia Chang, whom he first met while working at Per Se. In 2021, Kitchen Table reopened following extensive refurbishment.

What Clients Want Most Right Now

“Guests are less impressed with molecular cooking and prefer substance. People want to know the ingredients, where the cow comes from and where the radishes are grown. They also put a great importance on sustainable cooking.”

Adapting for Financial Sustainability

“We introduced a ticketing system so that if guests cancel at the last minute, we can at least cover ourselves for the loss. We have kept our menu cost as low as possible to be more approachable, but we offer optional supplements for guests who can spend more. We introduced turning seats but it really jeopardized our guest experience, so we stopped that.”

Inspired by the way his grandfather cooked and preserved food, Nørregaard opened Kadeau, his Michelin-starred restaurant, on the Danish island of Bornholm in 2007 and then Kadeau Copenhagen in 2011. In addition to running a sustainable farm on the Bornholm property, Nørregaard and his team opened a glamping space called Eco Beach this past summer.

A Decade From Now, What Will Fine Dining Look Like?

“I think it’s going to be less stiff. I think the general approach will go more down-to-earth.”

Staff Sustainability

“We have so many chefs or front-of-house [staff] who have kids, so people work with us 3.5 days a week so they have time to have a life on the side. It’s more expensive than having people work five or six days a week, but it’s important. To make it work financially, we adjust spending as well as our prices.”

Future Dreams

“We used to have quite a few restaurants and it’s nice not to have that now, after the pandemic. It forces us to focus a bit more on the main product. But I think maybe a small hotel would be nice at some point. Maybe we would move the restaurant there.” 

Chef Nicolai Nørregaard

The chef and owner of Rosetta—the Michelin-starred Mexico City restaurant that currently ranks No. 34 on The World’s 50 Best list—Reygadas was named The World’s Best Female Chef by The World’s 50 Best list in 2023.

Current Concerns

“The contemporary agri-food system, which promotes a concerning homogeneity of food, is one of the major causes of our current environmental crisis, while also promoting a diet harmful to human health. Across continents we’re beginning to eat the same ingredients, using fewer of the lesser-known ones, and leading to a dangerous loss of flavors, history, and culture. As awareness grows, it will become increasingly clear that restaurants are just one element within a gigantic ecosystem—without the farmers, there is no cuisine. This awareness is already taking root, with more projects creating networks and dialogues with producers, fostering fair trade and preserving traditions.”

Next Personal Frontier

“China. I’ve never been, but its undoubtedly mind-blowing cuisine and tea production fascinates me. I’d love to explore Chinese cuisine and discover the connections that were forged between China and Mexico during the Manila and Acapulco trading maritime routes—I’m sure there are many.”

An early proponent of the farm-to-table movement, Palmer is perhaps best known for Aureole, the New York City restaurant that opened in 1988, earned 13 Michelin stars and two James Beard Awards, and established Palmer as a leader in the American hospitality industry.

What’s Changing?

“People are yearning for the opportunity to be together and to socialize maybe more than I’ve ever seen before in my 30 years of doing this. The younger generation is a lot more interested in experience. Are they learning something? Are they exposed to something that’s totally new and different? Diners more than ever want to know about what they’re eating, where it came from, and the quality of the product itself.”

What’s Next?

Along with Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts veteran Christopher Hunsberger, Palmer will be opening five “culinary-first” hotels over the next five years that put food at the forefront of the guest experience. “It’s about somehow giving the guest the feeling of what it’s like to live in that very unique place,” he says of the project, titled Appellation. “[It’s about] rubbing shoulders with the winemakers—being able to meet the makers, where they exist.”

Refslund cofounded the New Nordic cuisine movement when he opened Noma with Redzepi back in the day, but after 12 years in New York, he finally opened his dream project, ILIS, which fuses parts of the Danish words for “fire” and “ice.”

Recent Discoveries

“When we created the restaurant, I really believed that people should have choices and create their own universe—create their own menu à la carte, but still fine dining. I learned that most people come to a restaurant and they want to just feel taken care of. They don’t want to have so many choices.”

What Clients Are Looking For

“People have more focus about vegetables and clean, healthier food. You become what you eat. And that’s definitely the way I’m thinking.”

Potential Future Projects

“Three years before we opened, we began building a [flavor] library of North America and we are still building it—fermentation two years before, tuna cured six months before. I want to write about that period of my life, to create the whole story of how you open up a restaurant, how we created this restaurant, and then one year in.”

Chef Charlie Palmer Chef Elena Reygadas

Chef Mads Refslund

The World Is Their Oyster

Top chefs and their top culinary experiences.

Nicolai Nørregaard

“Noma back in the day, street food in Bangkok, and I was in Peru this past winter. I went up to Cuzco and saw what they did there … there are completely different ingredients, stuff we had never tasted before.”

James Knappett

“Alinea (before the time of social media) where everything was unexpected, mind-blowing, and unpredictably delicious. Exebari for its simplicity of great ingredients and inspiring techniques of grilling. Also, my mother-in-law’s home-cooked dinners.”

Elena Reygadas

“The most luxurious bite I’ve had lately was a machucada at Cocina de Humo, Thalia’s restaurant in Oaxaca. A machucada is a halfcooked tortilla grabbed directly from the comal and then handcrushed, topped with warm salsa martajada and queso fresco. The moment is so crucial, brief, and ephemeral. That is for me the definition of luxury, beauty, and deliciousness.”

Clockwise from left: Sea snails at Noma; Chicago’s Alinea; and dining in Viñales, Cuba.

Jordan Kahn

“Cuba. My family is from there and after my grandparents passed away, we went there and drove to a place called Viñales. There was a small hut on the side of the road [belonging to] people who opened their home to visitors. We had chicken that they raised and grilled over a fire from the wood of the trees that were surrounding us. We just sat there and ate in silence.”

Charlie Palmer

“I had an amazing experience at this winery in Rioja called Vivanco. I wouldn’t say it was the best food but they have probably the most important, extensive wine museum in the world.” u

When a cruise company christens its new vessel

“The Most Luxurious Cruise Ship Ever Built,” and then trademarks that tagline, they must mean business. When they follow up that first ship with two more modeled on the original—selling out voyage after voyage along the way—they mean very big business. That’s what Regent Seven Seas Cruises (rssc.com) has done over the past few years, offering a proof of concept with Seven Seas Explorer in 2016; then Splendor, which came with the moniker “Luxury Perfected,” in 2020; and now Grandeur, whose “Heritage of Perfection” reputation includes the display of a pearl-encrusted Fabergé egg (shown at top), made exclusively for the vessel and the only such piece at sea.

Much of these ships’—and Regent’s— appeal comes from their impeccable design, which manages to blend the best of the past and present, combining tried and true tropes of high luxury (thousands of crystals used to create scores of chandeliers, tons of richly grained marble) even as it reinvents them in surprisingly contemporary, innovative ways. Grandeur represents a new high mark in this carefully curated mix. To sail on the Grandeur is to have a new appreciation for what luxury can look like on the high seas today. Spoiler: It manages to be almost indistinguishable from the best of what it

Shining From Sea to Sea

Regent Seven Seas Cruises delivers its third, most luxurious ship yet.

BY ANDREW SESSA

looks like on land—and that’s no easy feat.

The intimate, 372-suite, 744-guest ship owes its aesthetic success to the team at the South Florida–based firm Studio Dado, which, having previously worked on aspects of Explorer and Splendor, took the helm exclusively here, designing Grandeur’s interiors from prow to stern.

“As the sole architects, we could weave together the continuity of the story that we wanted to tell about this idea of the pinnacle of luxury,” says Dado Founding Partner Yohandel Ruiz. “We had a big responsibility to leave a lasting impression.”

They lived up to that responsibility, and then some. Passengers enjoy an entirely seamless, and utterly impressive, aesthetic experience across the ship’s 10 decks, even as the diversity of its decor allows passengers to travel across time and around the globe—all without even setting foot ashore. Just dining among Grandeur’s eight restaurants can take you from a haute bistro in Coco Chanel’s Paris, complete with chandeliers inspired by a citrine brooch from one of the maison’s early jewelry collections, to a classic, mid-20thcentury New York steakhouse, whose leather and wine-colored interiors almost make you feel like you’re smelling cigars and listening to power brokers negotiate deals while you bite into your perfectly charred, medium-rare rib eye. The geometric tiles of the Mediterranean restaurant bring you to Gio Ponti’s Amalfi

Coast, and the largest dining room becomes a twinkling Shangri-la at night, when its windows light up with constellations of LEDs.

The grand observation lounge, meanwhile, which borrows from Manhattan’s Art Deco Rainbow Room at the top of Rockefeller Center, features a one-of-a-kind, gravitydefying chandelier whose waves of crystal mesh wash across an expansive ceiling. And a hidden gem of a tucked-away library rivals any cosmopolitan art bookstore in the world.

As for the art onboard, in addition to that Fabergé egg, Grandeur displays some 1,600 works, all curated by Regent’s art director, Sarah Hall Smith, who has been creating private art collections for 30 years. Among the most impressive pieces aboard are works by Robert Rauschenberg and Roberto Matta, plus several by Pablo Picasso. Says Ruiz, the entire Regent Suite—the ship’s largest accommodation—takes inspiration from the pied-à-terre of a worldly art collector.

While the 4,400-square-foot Regent Suite is an outlier, even the smallest cabins measure in at a minimum 307 square feet. And like all the suites, they include creature comforts such as suede-lined drawers. Dado was in charge of the big picture and the understanding that the minutiae matter too. “Luxury is beyond the glittering surfaces,” says Ruiz. “It’s about creating a sense of comfort and an experience that feels tailored to the individual. It should not feel just like home, but even better.” u

Living History

The great thing about historical houses with contemporary interiors isn’t just the interest they hold, but the many surprises you’ll encounter.

BY FRANCISCA KELLETT

Taking a house in Europe can go hand in hand with taking in a good dose of history. After all, why stay in rural England or the foothills of Majorca without immersing yourself in what shaped the area? That’s why historical house rentals can provide the most fascinating escapes, enhancing your experience of a destination among the worn flagstones of a 500-year-old hallway and ancient olive groves that have been providing oil to the region for centuries.

Of course, history isn’t everyone’s idea of a good time—it’s what is inside a magical old home that really counts. Beautifully designed interiors, contemporary touches, and bang-up, up-to-date additions achieve that delicate mix of old and new that keeps things interesting but livable. Good service is also key. Book with the right company to ensure a bespoke experience, from carefully catered food and drink preferences to extraordinary excursions both within the house grounds and locally.

SPAIN

Son Fuster, Majorca

Located in the foothills of the Tramuntana mountains on the sun-washed island of Majorca, Son Fuster is an original possesio (countryside manor) dating to 1350. It’s been carefully restored by its current owner, Mats Wahlström, the Swedish entrepreneur behind the island’s Puro Hotel and collection of Puro beach clubs dotted around the Mediterranean.

Wahlström personally oversaw the interior design, inspired by his travels through Europe, North Africa, and the American Southwest. The result is like a boutique hotel that you have all to yourself, with a full staff, including a manager/concierge, housekeeper, and chef. Food is a highlight, with a strong focus on seasonal, sustainable produce, much of which is grown on the estate’s farm.

The thick stone walls hide a warren of bedrooms and large shared spaces, dotted with contemporary and midcentury furniture and modern art. There’s a professional kitchen and numerous places to dine, from a broad terrace with sweeping views to a Moroccan-themed seating area. In addition to an award-winning sound system, guests enjoy a heated outdoor pool lined with daybeds, a padel court, a fully equipped gym, an infrared sauna, a steam bath, and a Cellgym breathing device designed to imitate high-altitude training.

Guests access the island’s main city of Palma in 25 minutes by car. Visit during the day to explore cafés and boutiques and at night for its busy bars and top restaurants. The pretty coves and sandy beaches of the north and west coast are within a 45-minute drive, and there are harbors at Soller and Palma for yacht trips along the coast. There’s also a helipad on-site, for a quick hop to the neighboring island of Formentera (book ahead to visit the famous Beso Beach).

Red Savannah, from $15,175/night for up to 10 guests, including staff, chef-prepared meals, and drinks; redsavannah.com 

ITALY

Dating back over a thousand years, Castello Romano was for centuries a sacred retreat for nuns who would withdraw to these rolling hills for peaceful contemplation and inspiring views over the countryside and out toward the sea. Guests come here to do much of the same today—albeit in considerable luxury—making the most of this exceptional house and its 200 acres of forests, vineyards, and olive groves.

The reinvention of Castello Romano is credited to owner Paolo Vico, a globetrotting trader who returned to Italy after 25 years of living in London, Switzerland, and New York. It took more than two years to find these ruined cloisters, and a further 12 years to painstakingly rebuild everything, working with archaeologists, historians, and local artisans and ensuring authenticity by using traditional building methods dating to the Middle Ages. Construction was fully sustainable too, making use of reclaimed materials, while a key point was to hire and support Italian craftspeople who have passed on their skills through generations.

Coupled with Vico’s grasp of how to preserve the heritage of the home was his understanding of what modern travelers need and want. Beneath the soaring ceilings he

installed modern furnishings and astonishing contemporary art by Matteo Pugliese, Matteo Lucca, Pixel Pancho, and Gustavo Aceves. Bathrooms have deep sunken tubs as well as vaulted ceilings, rough-hewn walls, and huge, reclaimed stone fireplaces.

Surrounding, fragrant herb gardens and orchards give way to rolling vineyards and farmland, which produce more than 60,000 bottles of wine each year, as well as 2,600 gallons of extra virgin olive oil; much of the produce is used by the chefs in the kitchens (the house comes fully staffed).

As well as numerous areas for dining and lounging, the huge, glass-walled swimming pool is one of the longest private pools in Italy, jutting out over the landscape and seemingly floating toward the sea in the distance. The local Le Collectionist concierge team is on hand to arrange anything that might be needed, from family day trips to the coast and strolls through nearby villages or of Etruscan archaeological sites with expert guides, to arranging on-site outdoor cinema nights and festive feasts.

Le Collectionist, $14,140/night based on 16 people, including concierge service and a private chef; lecollectionist.com 

Castello Romano, Tuscany

Courtesy Castello Romano (5)

ENGLAND

Broughton Sanctuary, Yorkshire

Set on 3,000 acres of the Yorkshire Dales, Broughton Sanctuary has been owned by the same family since 1097. The current custodian, Roger Tempest, has a keen interest in both nature and wellness, and has made huge strides in transitioning the historic estate from intensive sheep farming to the process of rewilding. The results have been extraordinary with the restoration of wild meadows and the replanting of 230,000 trees. Rewilding Britain has dubbed the property as one of the country’s most “rapidly transformational” projects.

The main home on the property, the Grade 1–listed (denoting a building of exceptional historic interest) Broughton Sanctuary, dates to 1597 and is massive with 17 bedrooms furnished with four-poster beds, family heirlooms, rich tapestries, and brooding family portraits. It’s like sleeping in a history lesson, complete with a staff known for putting on elaborate banquets in the conservatory and gourmet picnics in the Dales. More casual, contemporary surrounds can be found on the estate in outhouses and cottages that have been transformed into self-catering accommodations.

Most contrasting and intriguing of all, however, is the Avalon Wellness Centre, a state-of-the-art retreat created by Yiangou Architects with hypermodern, minimalist interiors designed by Patrick Kinmonth. Some 50 retreats are held here each year; there’s everything from mindfulness weekends with writer and mental health advocate Ruby Wax and Buddhist monk Gelong Thubten to tantra retreats with Homa and Mukto, internationally renowned meditation and tantra teachers. Guests of Broughton Sanctuary can take over the whole of Avalon and create bespoke wellness experiences too.

From $15,480/night for 17 people, including staff; exclusive use of Avalon Wellness Centre from $5,800; broughtonsanctuary.co.uk

ENGLAND

Newton Surmaville, Somerset

Owned by one family for 400 years, this countryside estate endured numerous periods of decay and rebuild before being bought in 2019 by forward-thinking Americans. Their New York designer, Jeffrey Bilhuber, blended old with new, marrying the 17th-century walls with colorful, contemporary design elements reflective of the bucolic surroundings.

Built from local stone, the Grade 1–listed home is set on the banks of the babbling River Yeo, and surrounded by 62 acres of manicured parkland and meadows dotted with grazing sheep. Nine bedrooms sleep up to 20 people, and five reception rooms feature original oak paneling, intricate cornicing, stone fireplaces, and flagstone floors strewn with modern rugs.

Among the furnishings are English antiques (an early-18th-century Jacobean canopy bed in the primary is draped with modern White Company linen) mixed with locally sourced vintage pieces, jewel-tone velvet sofas, and contemporary pieces by Connecticut-based RT Facts.

On the walls, contemporary art hangs adjacent to 17th-century tapestries, traditional paintings, pewter plates, and a whimsical installation made from the home’s original set of door keys.

Visitors can participate in an array of activities both within the grounds (kayaking, biking, fishing) and nearby in the area on the Somerset/Devon border, and booking with Loyd & Townsend Rose ensures that all arrangements will be bespoke. In another of their houses—Knowlton Court in Kent, which dates to 1585—curated activities range from a private wine tasting with the owners of a local winery to a five-course supper with the charming Fox-Pitts, the owners who regale guests with tales of their historical home. At an estate in Scotland, a family requested a custom-made Loch Ness Monster be created and “revealed” on the lake to the delight of their guests.

Loyd & Townsend Rose, from $15,440 for two nights based on 20 people, including breakfast; ltrcastles.com u

Prized Properties

These coveted addresses have the key components to be the best homes on the block.

BY IRENE RAWLINGS

What is a trophy home? Thad Wong, co-CEO of Christie’s International Real Estate, says, “Trophy homes—for lack of a better term—occupy that rarefied space at the very top of the luxury real estate market.” For Shari Chase, founder and CEO of Chase International, it is a property of outstanding beauty in a gorgeous natural setting. Chris Webster of Sotheby’s International Realty, who has been selling high-ticket real estate since 1972, prefers the words: “residential estate masterpiece.” Whatever their definition, experts agree that trophy homes must be one of a kind, beautifully crafted, and, often, with a captivating provenance.

Steamboat Springs, Colorado

Newly renovated inside and out and located less than five miles from the restaurants and galleries of historic downtown Steamboat Springs, this threelevel, 10,000-square-foot, seven-bedroom, 7.5-bath retreat is a grand example of skiin/ski-out mountain living. Homeowners entertain in a range of spaces from the chef’s kitchen, bourbon room, and bar

room to exterior terraces (totaling more than 3,000 square feet) and the rooftop deck with a gas fireplace. Additional amenities include a heated outdoor pool, dry sauna, cold plunge, home theater, and two-story gym with a golf and sports simulator and a climbing wall. Agent: Chris Paoli, The Agency Steamboat Springs. $19.9 million; theagencyre.com

Aspen, Colorado

Hanging Valley Ranch—a modern-rustic main house, threebedroom guesthouse, and a gorgeous four-stall horse barn—sits on 55 acres (35 irrigated) that are surrounded by national forest.

Secluded but only 15 minutes from quaint, artsy downtown Carbondale, Nettle Creek meanders the length of the property feeding waterfalls and ponds that complement numerous patios, paths, and bridges of the meticulous-but-wild landscape design. Dark skies provide a tapestry for stars. The property also includes horse and hiking trails as well as an outdoor riding arena, a hay barn, and miles of three-rail ranch fencing. Agent: Craig Morris, Sotheby’s International Realty. $29.5 million; craigmorris.com

Montecito, California

In a prestigious neighborhood, this 15,355-square-foot, 9-bedroom, 14-bath home on nearly four acres was built in 1910 and has undergone extensive renovations, ensuring the preservation of its historic charm while embracing contemporary comforts. From the tree-lined, gated main drive, French doors open onto elegant terraces, meticulously manicured gardens with fruit trees, a pickleball court, and a pool. Agent: Nancy Kogevinas, Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices California Properties. $42 million; luxury .bhhscalifornia.com 

Santa Fe, New Mexico

The iconic Fenn residence (he was one of Santa Fe’s premier art dealers) is a gated and walled property consisting of a 4,596-square-foot home with a three-car garage in the traditional adobe style with exceptional architectural details. A grand library with a beam-and-latilla ceiling, an open kitchen/ breakfast room overlooking mature landscaping with fruit trees, aspens, a waterfall, and a pond; a large primary bedroom with double baths, a steam shower, and walk-in closets; try the second-floor roof deck for commanding views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Agent: Chris Webster, Sotheby’s International Realty. $4.45 million; santafesir.com

Lake Tahoe, Nevada

Crystal Pointe is an epic lakefront home on more than five acres with 525 feet of lakefront on Lake Tahoe’s cobalt blue waters. The property includes a single-level primary residence with a connected fourbedroom guesthouse, a beach house, and the caretaker’s apartment in tax-friendly Nevada. “Investing in a Lake Tahoe trophy property is not just about acquiring real estate; it’s about embracing a legacy lifestyle of sophistication and serenity,” says Shari Chase, founder and CEO of independent real estate firm Chase International, which, last year, represented the three highest sales in Lake Tahoe’s history. $49.5 million; crystalpointetahoe.com

Gestüt Peterhof, one of the world’s finest equestrian estates, lies in the picturesque village of Perl-Borg on the Upper Moselle River in the border triangle of Germany, Luxembourg, and France. The impressive entrance to the 74-acre property leads to a Mediterranean-inspired piazza surrounded by the Baroque two-story main house, the adjacent stud manager’s house, and five elegant guesthouses.

For equine inhabitants: 38 spacious, windowed loose boxes, wash bays, indoor and outdoor arenas, an allweather gallop track, and a two-story tack room. Turnkey operation includes farm machinery, furniture, fixtures, and appliances. Unicorn Real Estate, an affiliate of Christie’s International Real Estate. Price upon request; christiesrealestate.com

Perl-Borg, Germany

Under Construction

NEW YORK

The Astor, originally built (c. 1901) by the legendary Astor family, is adding three modern penthouses atop the historic building. Penthouse No. 2 is a 4,805-square-foot duplex with five bedrooms and seven baths. Highlights: More than 1,700 square feet of private outdoor space, including a wraparound terrace accessed via the triple-exposure great room (with a gas fireplace) and a separate private terrace from the primary suite. $13.95 million; theastor.com; elliman.com

MIAMI BEACH, FLORIDA

The Perigon offers 73 two- to fourbedroom residences with large terraces, flow-through living and dining areas, and professional kitchens. Big views of the Atlantic Ocean on the east side; Biscayne Bay and downtown Miami on the west. Highlights: a dedicated lifestyle concierge, 24-hour security, beachside pools with cabanas, a private beach club, a screening room, and a children’s playroom. From $4.5 million; theperigonmiamibeach.com

TELLURIDE, COLORADO

Four Seasons Hotel and Private Residences, Telluride, designed by celebrity-favorite architectural firm Olson Kundig and design firm Clements Design, manages 42 hotel residences and 27 private ski-in/ski-out homes ranging from two to five bedrooms. Highlights: Residents enjoy the benefits of five-star Four Seasons amenities including ski valet, butler, fitness center, indoor lap pool, outdoor hot tub, and underground parking (priceless in winter). From $4 million; tellurideprivateresidences.com

CABO SAN LUCAS, MEXICO

Perched atop the hills of Pedregal (known as the “Hollywood Hills of Cabo”), The Mountain Club has been designed as a retreat to replenish the body and mind with two- to four-bedroom Costa Villas (3,600 to 6,000 square feet; from $1 million) and five-bedroom Estate Homes (up to 10,000 square feet; from $3 million). Highlights: multiple pools, beach access, sauna and steam rooms, and personalized wellness programs. themountainclub.com

BIMINI, BAHAMAS

Global hospitality brand Banyan Tree makes its first foray into the Caribbean with Banyan Tree Bimini Resort & Residences—750 acres with 54 waterfront residences (designed by Oppenheim Architecture). Only 30 minutes from Miami by private charter jet, helicopter, or boat. Additional plans: a five-star hotel with overwater bungalows, a deep-water marina, and a private, 18-hole golf club. Highlights: Private docks, beach access, and 24/7 concierge service. Bonito Beach Club offers private cabanas and yachting services. From $3.5 million; banyantreeresidencesbimini.com

ACROSS THE GLOBE

Storylines, a luxury residential community at sea, launches the MV Narrative in 2027 with 530 fully furnished residences, from studios to four bedrooms. Owners enjoy an all-inclusive experience—20 restaurants, three pools, cultural programming, a marina platform for watersports, and a 10,000-square-foot wellness facility. Completely circumnavigates the globe every three years. $7.1 million for a 1,313-square-foot two-bedroom, two-bath open floor plan; storylines.com 

Mykonos, Greece

This compound includes two sleekand-contemporary seafront villas, two guesthouses, and a two-bedroom apartment (that’s 10 bedrooms and 12 baths)—all built in the whitewashed Cycladic style. Villas and the pool are positioned for

maximum Aegean Sea views. Secluded but only a 10-minute drive to the popular beaches and Mykonos Town with its buzzing restaurants, galleries, and nightlife. Konstantina Drakopoulou says, “The Greek real estate market, especially for trophy homes, is experiencing a significant resurgence, driven by economic stability, rising property values, and increased construction activity.” JK Property & Yachting, Luxury Portfolio International. $32.9 million; luxuryportfolio.com

Dallas

“There are a lot of very expensive homes in the Dallas area, but that does not make all of them ‘trophy homes,’” says Susan Baldwin, executive vice president, Allie Beth Allman & Associates. “A trophy home has more of an estate feel, a legacy feel … and it will be just as impressive in 50 years as it is now.” One of her favorite listings is a Mediterraneanstyle, four-bedroom, six-bath home and guesthouse in Highland Park (“…the most luxurious and desirable Dallas suburb”). Find manicured greenery and an azure pool outside, and inside: glossy Venetian plaster walls, handpainted wallpapers, monumental fireplaces, and statement chandeliers. Allie Beth Allman & Associates, Luxury Portfolio International. $15.95 million; luxuryportfolio.com

A Different Take on Second Homes: Exclusive Resorts

From Aspen to the Amalfi Coast, Chicago to Corfu, and Vail to Vienna, your suite of multimillion-dollar vacation homes awaits.

Established in 2002, Exclusive Resorts owns and operates more than 350 private homes in over 75 of the world’s most desirable vacation destinations— including Rome, Mexico’s Riviera Maya, Bermuda, California’s Montecito, Miami’s South Beach, and the Hamptons in New York, to name a few. Many of the residences are in or near five-star hotels and resorts, so guests get full access to pools, spas, kids’ clubs, and prime dining options—while enjoying the privacy of their own luxe apartment, casa, villa, or castle.

Essentially, the company seamlessly blends the agency of owning a home with the services of having a luxury travel advisor, trip coordinator, and on-the-spot problem solver. The membership offers the highest level of personalized and ultra-private travel experiences whether you are escaping for one-on-one special vacations, with the grandchildren, or on fully scheduled family reunions for a dozen or more—flawlessly organized down to the last detail.

Extensive connections within the travel industry allow the club to offer one-of-a-kind, often over-the-top experiences created especially for you and your partner, friends, or family. This could include luxury barging in France, wildlife viewing in the Galápagos, golf holidays at St. Andrews in Scotland, a Robinson Crusoe–like family safari in Botswana, or island-hopping in Australia and New Zealand (including an America’s Cup sailing trip and a tour of the famed Sydney Opera House).

Members (currently 4,500) are a mix

of young families, multigenerational groups, empty nesters, and solo travelers.

“Our members have stock portfolios, retirement accounts, estate plans, and insurance for pretty much everything. But no investment portfolio or second home will ever match the value of your time,” says Rachel Regan, senior vice president of global sales.

Here’s how Exclusive Resorts works: Every family is matched with an ambassador who acts as a travel planner and pre-trip problem solver. While on site at an Exclusive Resorts home, a dedicated personal concierge takes care of everything you need—large or small—from dinner reservations and grocery delivery to arranging in-home spa treatments and flight transfers.

Like any country club, you pay a onetime initiation fee—currently $195,000 for a 10-year plan. The membership is inheritable and can be passed down to children and grandchildren as an investment in future travel.

Once you are a member, annual dues are based on how many nights you intend to travel. Most members travel 25 nights a year and have annual dues starting at $42,250. For example, a seven-night trip to Tuscany in a four-bedroom villa costs seven plan days (around $12,000).

Four nights in Cabo, Mexico, where you have the option of one of the club’s four-bedroom palatial residences at the Esperanza, Auberge Resorts Collection, or a more private four-bedroom villa nearby with access to the award-winning resort and spa, costs four plan days (around $7,000). exclusiveresorts.com u

The Decomposition of a Leaf, 2022

Living Form

The transformative artworks by MARGUERITE HUMEAU explore organic shapes and wrinkles in time, layering the past with the future and now.

BY BROOKE MAZUREK

© Marguerite Humeau.

The San Luis Valley stretches 122 miles from Colorado’s Poncha Pass down to the Taos tip of New Mexico. In portions of it, vast 750-foot sand dunes sit directly alongside even vaster snow-tipped mountains forming a vista that doesn’t entirely make sense to the human eye at first. It is as though two unlikely worlds collided and decided to coexist amid cycles of erosion and volcanic extrusion that began 3 million years ago.

In the summer of 2023, the conceptual artist Marguerite Humeau spent a month living and breathing this place. Orisons, her 160-acre earthwork that included 90 kinetic and interactive sculptures, was opening with Black Cube, a nomadic art gallery. “I wanted to become the land,” says Humeau, 37. “‘What if I’m a plant? What does it mean when it’s noon and there is no shade?’”

Known for installations that fuse cuttingedge technology with extinct species, ancient gods, and mythical creatures of her own intuitive design, Humeau first found the voice that continues to permeate her work by

Clockwise from opposite top left: FOXP2 (Biological Showroom), Palais de Tokyo, Paris, 2016; The Opera of Prehistoric Creatures –”Lucy” Autralopithecus Afarensis, -4,4-1M years ago, 2011; Self Portrait;

I observed the pulsations of a mound, like a lung inhaling and exhaling, porous, with branching passages, 2022; Orisons, 2023

investigating the voice of deep time. As part of her thesis for London’s Royal College of Art, she worked with scientists and specialists to render the sound of Lucy, a 3.2-millionyear-old human ancestor whose fossil skeleton was discovered in Ethiopia in the 1970s. After remodeling and 3D printing the ancient woman’s vocal box, Humeau mounted it onto a slim black pole sized to Lucy’s exact height, which was then connected to an air compressor (a stand-in for the lungs) so the audio file could play through the sculpture.

In the decade since MoMA found and acquired the piece for its permanent collection, Humeau’s sensuous and severe, scientific and surreal sculptural ecosystems have been exhibited in galleries and museums internationally. Her art is about humanity— about our origins; our ending; our connection with the past, the distant future, and the nebulous web of now. And it’s humanity itself that the French-born, London-based artist has increasingly harnessed to bring her expansive visions to life.

From artisans, philosophers, foragers, and wooly mammoth excavators, Humeau is something of a great-grandmother spider gifted with an ability to cultivate a web of talent who inform and push the boundaries of her creative practice. The result is often amphibious. Any given installation might include works of oil pastel, still and moving images generated with open AI, sculptures made from termite-consumed wood, blown glass, metal, latex, hand-carved onyx, and black mamba venom–infused paint.

There are no limitations. The medium is the message and Humeau, the shapeshifting messenger.

For Orisons, she spiraled deep into research with ornithologists, earthen architecture specialists, geomancers, clairvoyants, and mediums to conceptualize a show where the earth itself was framed as the art. The only thing she expected was the unexpected, and that’s exactly what she was met with.

“I was told there was the spirit of a woman trapped on the land in a certain area,” says Humeau. “And during the install, I found a dead bird in that spot.” Sensing the bird needed a proper burial, Humeau built a nest and enclosure using adobe bricks. “The next day, I wanted to change something and as I was opening the first brick, there was suddenly thunder in the sky. The bird had disappeared. It was gone.”

Her perspective on why the disappearance happened indirectly serves as a kind of window into her being.

“One could be rational and think: ‘Maybe someone took it.’ Which, in itself, would be interesting. It means someone had told someone about this bird—and in a way, that’s meaningful,” she says. “Or, maybe the bird could have been the spirit of the trapped woman and by burying the bird, we buried the woman, and finally she could escape. But I don’t know. I have no idea.”

There was not a drop of judgment or drama in her voice as she spoke, only curiosity that extended in different directions like the branches of an old-growth tree. Each version of the truth was held objectively like a scale in balance. Neither narrative was good nor bad. It was sand dunes and frosted mountains in a state of coexistence. Each was a part of the same greater thing. There was room for all of it. 

What are you working on currently?

I’m preparing for two projects opening in the fall and winter, so we’re deep into production. I’m doing the Gwangju Biennale, and I have a show in the United States in December.

For the biennial, I am developing a large installation to recreate a landscape of origins. We’re working with biologists in Korea who are sampling mud from a prehistoric pond called “The Ghost Pond” because it disappeared and then reappeared. They’ve been sampling mud and regrowing this whole landscape using methodology that’s accelerating the growth of bacteria. There will be inhabitants in this landscape that look almost like really small dinosaurs, but they are salamanders that never mature. In a way they are like an elixir of youth and an elixir of life because they live very long lives but physically always look like their baby selves. They will be living in this landscape and the

landscape is contained in a kind of sculpture that looks like early formations of life called stromatolites. We’ve been working with a textile designer for that. From this landscape, there come dozens of bubbles that have been blown in glass. The bubbles look like bubbles but also maybe like cells, maybe like drums. It brings up the question: How do we still carry within us the rhythms of primal, very early life?

For my show in the United States, I am thinking of a world that is posthumous and set in a desert film I’m working on. It is the first film of my life, so I’m quite daunted but really excited. It’s almost like a creation story for a world where Earth would have become so dry that the soil would start peeling off like dead skin. In a way, we would have no choice but to become nomadic bodies in flight—and maybe when this happens, our bodies also become our homes. It’s quite experimental.

Above: meys exhibition at White Cube, Bedmondsey, London, 2023

Opposite from top: The Holder of Wasp Venom, 2023; The Guardian of the Fungus Garden, 2023; The Honey Holder, 2023

You’re generating a prolific amount of work. What allows you to bring ideation into physical form?

In the past couple of years I’ve started to embrace the development of forms. I used to draw a lot, and many things would have been decided beforehand. Whereas now, the way we’ve been working in the past couple of years is much more iterative. For example, this project about nomadic bodies [started] on a hike this winter, when I found a seed that looked like dead skin. It was really translucent with lots of folds that looked like wrinkles. I talked to my team about this seed, and we just really allowed for lots of free space to explore. I think maybe three or four years ago I totally let go of something. I don’t know what happened, to be honest, but there was a moment of thinking: “OK, every show needs to be my best ever. But equally, I’m going to do this for all my life. So, each show is a new experiment. It should be playful.” I think you have to be OK with taking risks and maybe failing sometimes.

There has been a recurring element of sound and literal voice in your installations. Has this changed the way you understand your own voice?

I started with synthetic voices and exploring the boundaries of the human voice, wondering at which point does it become almost nonhuman? Is there a boundary? Then there were human voices that were trying to escape their own shells. Last year I worked with saxophonist Bendik Giske, who produced a piece of music for my show meys with White Cube. The show was about becoming collective bodies, merging with insects—and all the sculptures were made of the sum of their parts. The music was made by placing different microphones throughout the saxophone so Bendik could play parts of the saxophone body in ways that are not normally heard. He created “voices” for all the different sculptures.

As for how it’s impacting my life? I guess strangely enough ... I’m half-deaf. I lost my hearing when I was in my twenties. I think there is a bit of a quest to find something that there was a loss of. I think sound is a powerful tool because you can really feel a strong physical presence when really, you don’t even need to feel the physical body. 

DUST exhibition at White Cube Seoul, from left: the twist, 2024; dead skins, 2024

©

Marguerite Humeau.

Photo

© White Cube

(Jeon Byung Cheol)

Among the niche collaborators you’ve worked with, is there one who stands out as having made a significant impact on you?

I met this amazing person named Lucia Stuart. She’s a forager and a chef, and during the pandemic I asked her to help me feed myself from the London parks. She told me to intuitively choose plants that I thought I would like to eat. I would take photos and send them to her, and she would tell me: “Yes, no, yes, no.” Since then, I’ve collaborated many times with her. I will always remember this one time I went to a foraging workshop. We were on the beach, and she would pick up oysters, open them, and come like this [holds out hand directly] with the oyster and really almost put it in your mouth. I thought to myself, the connection we have with nature has been so lost that it becomes frightening. My first intuition was to feel scared that something would poison me. Or that I would pick the wrong thing. This gesture of opening the oyster and giving it to you—she was rematerializing a link or a connection that’s been lost.

Was an awareness of the earth something you grew up with?

I grew up in the countryside in France. My mom is a painter, so she was always quite connected to the change of seasons.

Were you always artistic?

My parents are moving, so a few weeks ago we had to go back and pack up our “teenager bedrooms” [laughs]. I saw the amount and the piles of drawings and realized I was always manically producing art. That was always at the heart of my life.

How do you choose what medium you’ll be working with?

Everything is derived from the story and the experience we are trying to craft. Is it bodily and heavy? Does it need to feel condensed? Does it need to feel like it is solid but could be liquid? Does it need to feel ethereal and like it’s going to take flight?

For example, when I was working on meys, my show about collective bodies—it just made so much sense to work with materials that are the product of collective organisms. I worked with beeswax, wood that was eaten by termites and worms, and other materials that

had started a process of decomposition. For my show DUST with White Cube Seoul, I was trying to develop this idea of space-time portals and nets, so we worked with a 3D knitter. We had to find someone who could knit sculptural forms.

Do you have a favorite myth?

I’m not sure if there’s one, but I was researching all the myths about the great flood. In almost every culture in the world, there has been a flood at some point. My greater source of inspiration is trying to understand how it is possible that so many myths are shared across so many different civilizations. You could think of mythology as being biological, an inherent part of who we are as humans. Even if it’s in our unconscious memory, memory is matter. Every time I discover a story from a different part of the world that I didn’t know, I can connect it to something else I’ve read. I always consider how amazing it is—our connection to our early ancestors and that we all have this in ourselves. That’s where I think the power of sculpture also resides. There are forms we carry within us. When we see them, we know them somehow. We feel them. u

This interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.

©

Marguerite

Humeau.

Photo © White Cube (Jeon Byung Cheol)

DUST exhibition at White Cube Seoul, from left: extraction pipes, 2024; release of gravity, 2024

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What’s Next SHOP

Paper-mâché was introduced to India’s Kashmir region by Sultan Zain al-Abidin in the 15th century and brought to Europe by 18th-century French textile traders. Artist/ designer Madeline Weinrib collaborated with Kashmir Loom to create an exquisite collection inspired by the Iznik tiles in Istanbul’s Topkapi Palace. madelineweinrib.com; kashmirloom.com

Gorgeous cake crocks, pitchers, and serving trays from heritage pottery company (around 1815) Stoneware & Co., a familyowned, craft-based business. stonewareandco.com

Diptyque opened in August in London’s Covent Garden, following closely on the openings in Marylebone and Bond Street (where it unveiled its new maison “apartment-style” concept). diptyqueparis.com

Beautifully crafted, vintageinspired board games (15 games include Scrabble, Monopoly, and Clue) from WS Game Company $600; wsgamecompany.com

ADVENT CALENDARS FOR GROWN-UPS

Twenty-four jams and spreads from Bonne Maman ($25; bonnemaman.us); the 12-day Bacon Advent Calendar ($90; givethembeer.com) of savory snacks; 25 mini Jo Malone ($495; jomalone.com) scented beauty favorites; LEGO (from $25; lego.com) offerings range from Disney to Harry Potter to Spider-Man; festive Ladurée ($135; laduree.us) macaron wreath calendar; snack-box favorite Bokksu ($48; bokksu .com) has packed a month-long supply of the season’s snacks from Japan.

RETAILERS BEYOND AMAZON

Artisans in Ritoma Village on the Tibetan Plateau work with the rare yak fiber khullu, making fine scarves and more for atelier Norlha (norlha .com). Overlooking the North Sea, Paradis Apartment (paradisapartment.com) in Ostend, Belgium, sells

From far left: Madeline Weinrib x Kashmir Loom paper-mâché bracelets; Maison Assouline London; Byredo’s Mojave Ghost perfume set

the curated objects and furnishings patrons enjoy during events and overnight stays. Underground below Chancery Lane, the London Silver Vaults (silvervaultslondon.com)—30 independent stores—is the largest retail collection of antique and contemporary silver in the world. Maison Assouline London (assouline.com) sells art, travel books, candles, and more, plus its in-store Swans Bar mixes cocktails inspired by the books.

BEAUTY

Olivella, pioneer of the Mediterranean diet for the skin, launches Olitox Lift Face Oil made from natural ingredients including olive oil from Terra del Papa, Italy’s largest organic olive grove. $110; olivellaline.com

Dior Baby Bonne Étoile scented water poetically evokes the magic of childhood with notes of rose and pear. $230; dior.com

Brooklyn-based D.S. & Durga has opened its first store, on the corner of Mulberry and Prince streets in Manhattan’s Nolita neighborhood. Its whimsically named scents have a cult following.

Newest: Big Sur Eucalyptus and the Murder Mystery Set. From $55 (hand soap), from $210 (perfume); dsanddurga.com

Inspired by the soulful beauty of California’s Mojave Desert, Mojave Ghost (perfume oil and body cream with notes of violet, sandalwood, and cedar) has been one of Byredo’s bestsellers. Now sold in a limited-edition solid, from $50. From $225 (perfume); byredo.com

Try the Tata Harper inhome Body Rejuvenation Treatment to buff, polish, and moisturize your body from top to toe. $315; tataharperskincare.com

A beautifully written and illustrated history, Reschio: The First Thousand Years showcases the grand estate in Umbria, now brilliantly reimagined as a stylish and environmentally conscious hotel. $115; rizzoli.com

The comprehensive survey David Hockney. A Bigger Book contains over 450 works, drawings, collages, and recent iPad sketches. The collector’s edition of 9,000 copies is each signed by Hockney and comes with a Marc Newson book stand. $5,500; taschen.com

Italian Coastal: Recipes and Stories From Where the Land Meets the Sea by Amber Guinness is part cookbook, part travelogue, and part memoir inspired by the markets and food of summers spent on shores between the Tuscan coast and northern Sicily. $40; thamesandhudsonusa.com

For fans of the eccentric filmmaker, The Worlds of Wes Anderson: The Influences and Inspiration Behind the Iconic Films uncovers a fantastic creative process in fascinating detail. $35; quarto.com

Peek into some of the world’s most exquisite mountain homes— from Jackson Hole, Wyoming, to Zermatt, Switzerland—in every season. In winter, Alpine Style depicts shearling rugs and stone fireplaces that provide warmth and a huge hygge factor. In summer, it’s windows flung open to the scent of wildflower meadows. $40; gibbs-smith.com

Discover The Gardens of Venice concealed, protected, and privileged places where nature, art, and history are intertwined. $70; marsilioarte.it

The Cake Bible, 35th Anniversary Edition by Rose Levy Beranbaum distills decades of experience and the pure joy of creation, plus this new version contains 30 percent more recipes than the original. $45; harpercollins.com 

What’s Next FOOD & DRINK

RESTAURANTS

Located in the West Village, Il Totano just opened with a menu of southern Italian dishes, including grilled, dry-aged branzino or kona kampachi and delectable sides such as grilled forest mushrooms and roasted Romanesco cauliflower. The blue-and-ochre interiors by Sacha Bikoff were inspired by Italy’s coast and countryside. iltotano.com

Bazaar Mar by José Andrés Group is the newest eatery in The Shops at Crystals in Las Vegas. The bright, theatrical space showcases seafood— grilled in a wood-burning oven, baked in salt, fried, or prepared as sashimi. On the Spanishcentric wine list find selections from many small, familyoperated wineries. The adjacent Bar Centro serves Spanishpressed jamón sandwiches for lunch and showstopping cocktails, caviar, and desserts in the evening. thebazaar.com

Nuri Steakhouse in Dallas fuses flavor profiles from Korea, New Orleans, and Texas into its beef,

sells from a 6,000-plus-bottle wine collection, and features interiors by the company that outfitted Michelin-three-star restaurant Single Thread in California. The menu is anchored by classics such as the 16-ounce rib eye. The restaurant’s private social club is located behind an unmarked door near the back of the restaurant and its bar is stocked with rare bourbons and Japanese whiskies. nuristeakhouse.com

French-Japanese bistro Camélia by Charles Namba and Courtney Kaplan (their restaurant Tsubaki on Los Angeles’ eastside has a loyal following) is now open in the city’s Arts District. On the menu: abalone and mussel potpie with king trumpet mushrooms and snail butter; koji-roasted chicken with seaweed cream sauce; dragon-tongue green beans smothered in a miso béarnaise sauce. The allFrench wine list is offered alongside selections of Japanese sake. cameliadtla.com

The team behind the wildly popular Medlar in Chelsea opens the outlandishly fancy Cornus atop the historic former ice factory in London’s Belgravia. Starched white tablecloths and marble counters set the tone in the L-shaped, 70-seat dining room with floor-to-ceiling windows. Chef Gary Foulkes is turning heads with dishes like hand-rolled spaghetti with native lobster and Amalfi lemon; roast chicken with Scottish langoustines; Lake District lamb with pepper pipérade. For dessert, millefeuille with baked apricot ice cream and selections from the thoughtful wine list with extensive by-the-glass choices. cornusrestaurant.co.uk

Enter La Padrona at Raffles Boston from a grand staircase ending at the entry of a dramatic dining room with a sparkling centerpiece bar. The kitchen, helmed by chefs Jody Adams and Amarilys Colón, rolls out Italian regional specialties such as razor clams with Calabrian chili,

charred Arrowhead cabbage, swordfish with fra diavolo sauce, and slow-roasted porchetta. In addition to half-a-dozen Negroni options is a well-rounded wine list. lapadronaboston.com

Mandarin Oriental–trained Polish chef Piotr Korzen is getting rave reviews at Paris’ Matka, his first restaurant featuring classic Polish cuisine with a French twist. On the à la carte menu: lamb confit–filled golabki, crème aigre (sour cream) and caviar-topped pierogi, and, for dessert, makowiec, a traditional cake with poppy seeds, but here, with chocolate, walnuts, and a creamy meringue. matkarestaurant.fr

The elegant, two-Michelinstarred Palais Royal Restaurant in Paris has expanded to the designforward Nolinskik Venezia in Venice, Italy. Like the original, the kitchen is led by Executive Chef Philip Chronopoulos. His two tasting menus merge the flavors of his native

Greece with Italian ingredients and French techniques. palaisroyalrestaurantvenezia.com

After being closed for six months, husband/wife team Nick Curtin and Camilla Hansen have reopened Alouette 2:0 at a new Copenhagen address—a historic house once lived in by legendary writer Hans Christian Andersen. The new iteration features a series of mini menus, each showcasing the best of local farms. For example, the strawberries, rhubarb, potatoes, peas, and asparagus all come from a farm that began as a monastery in the 1100s. restaurantalouette.dk

A working organic farm on 430 acres owned by the Fendi family has opened I Casali del Pino, a small hotel and restaurant. Find the bucolic views across meadows and pastureland just 30 minutes from Rome. Wake up and smell the bacon and taste the fresh ricotta, jams, and honey—all made on the farm. icasalidelpino.it

BARS

In Bardstown, Kentucky, the Bourbon Capital of the World (11 distilleries are within 16 miles of its center), there’s always room for one more: Chicken Cock Whiskey Circa 1865. The period-appropriate bar and tasting room is just right to taste exclusive releases and gain an appreciation for all the micro-distillery has to offer. chickencockwhiskey.com

Members and guests at Lone Mountain Ranch in Big Sky, Montana, can enjoy one of the most comprehensive wine collections in the state. Expect small-production old- and new-world wines, along with a selection of rare whiskies and antique Scotches at the recently launched Auric Room 1915—which also hosts a private supper club featuring a cigar terrace. auricroom.com

On the ground floor, London’s Oriole is a bar with aperitivostyle cocktails on draft and small plates. But downstairs, it’s a speakeasy with food,

live jazz, and cabaret from some of London’s best-known musicians. Book the Dinner and a Show package to enjoy it all. oriolebar.com

In Washington, D.C.’s Enigma Cocktail Lounge and Wine Vault, the cocktails are made with half-a-dozen ingredients, there are dozens of wines by the bottle or glass, and the small plates range from duckfat fries to PEI mussels and seared sea scallops. Regulars rave about the roasted chicken and the Gouda-and-bacon, jamtopped burger. enigmadc.com

Dimly lit and minimal, The Opposites in Hong Kong is a playground for industry veterans Antonio Lai and Samuel Kwok—two friends with two different ideas about how to mix a drink. Lai is more theatrical and incorporates modern laboratory equipment; Kwok prefers adventurous ingredient combinations rooted in classic bartending techniques. The small-plate menu also offers unexpected pairings: curried cod

croquettes with chili-oil mayo, rice-paper-wrapped black-garlic pork belly, and caviar-topped, marinated chicken roulades. theopposites.hk

On a quiet side street in the Marais district of Paris, nautically themed CopperBay is bright and cheery with light wood paneling and large front windows. The cocktail menu is written on giant paper scrolls behind the bar—pastis, the classics, and bartender-concocted creations— and you can order small bites like charcuterie and rillette spreads, served with country bread. copperbay.fr

Late-night food service is back at Brooklyn’s venerable Clover Club, serving crowd favorites: spinach-and-mushroom popovers, steak over toast, duck liver pâté. Next door is the just-opened companion bar, The Saloon at Clover Club. Push open the saloon doors, grab a seat, and order something splashy like a Tuxedo or a Champagne Cobbler. The Saloon hosts mixology classes too. cloverclubny.com 

From far left: Il Totano; Palais Royal Restaurant; The Opposites; Oriole Bar; Clover Club

What’s Next FOOD & DRINK

Pappy’s Smokehouse

FOOD

Attached to the Ace Hotel in Manhattan’s NoMad district, Milk Bar attracts locals and tourists who want to build their own cookies and cakes in the store’s labkitchen. The multilayer red velvet cheesecake is a fan favorite and ships nationally. milkbarstore.com

The Blackberry Farm Reserve Jam Collection is made from local, hand-picked berries. Flavors: Reserve Strawberry Balsamic Preserves, Reserve Blackberry Jam, Reserve Blueberry Jam, and Reserve Blueberry & Elderflower Honey Jam. $125; blackberryfarmshop.com

Local legend Portillo’s Hot Dogs has several locations in Chicago—each with its own atmosphere but all serving the famous jumbo dogs and charbroiled sausages. Shipping nationwide: 10-packs that include dogs, poppy-seed buns, mustard, and other condiments. $76; portillos.com

Locals flock to Pappy’s Smokehouse in St. Louis for outstanding barbecue. The Texas brisket and slow-smoked ribs are top sellers, as are the burnt ends. The line is always long, or you can order online. Ships nationwide via Goldbelly. From $160; goldbelly.com

Family-owned Broadbent Farms in Kentucky ships selections from its smokehouse: sausages, smoked bacon, and fully cooked hams (from $90). Ham sandwich packages from $40; broadbenthams.com

Legal Sea Foods, a Boston institution that began as a tiny restaurant, now has more than 30 East Coast locations. Go for jumbo lump crab cakes, baked lobster stuffed with shrimp and scallops, and/or creamy

white fish spread. Available to order online, including Papa’s Lobstah and Chowdah Box for $160. legalseafoods.com

DRINK

Spirit of the Rising Sun Japanese craft whisky is a nascent category and familyrun Kanosuke Distillery on Japan’s southern Kyushu Island produces distinctly smooth variations—distilled in copper-pot stills and finished in a variety of cask types: ex-Bourbon, sherry, rice shochu, and American white oak (used in the flagship single malt—Kanosuke Double Distillery released in April 2024). Available at top-shelf liquor stores in North America. From $110; kanosuke-en.com

—Frank Vizard

Georgia’s only seed-to-still distillery, Doc Brown Farm and Distillers grows heritage grains on its farm and turns them into velvety, bourbonbased liqueurs such as Butter Pecan Bourbon Cream and Salted Caramel Bourbon Cream. $30; docbrownfarm.com

Chic, bottled Via Carota Craft Cocktails, from a superpopular Italian restaurant in Manhattan’s West Village, sells its signature Manhattans and classic Negronis as well as a stunning martini set with gorgeous rocks glasses. Bottled cocktails from $40; drinkviacarota.com

Laid down in the fine bourbon and Oloroso sherry casks in the year 2000, the just-released, ultra-rare Ardbeg Vintage Y2K Islay Single Malt is creating quite a buzz among smoky malt whisky lovers. $720; ardbeg.com —Irene Rawlings u

Kanosuke Distillery