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No 23 Christmas Edition

2014

杂志为 奢华 生活时尚 文化 投资 Switzerland I Germany I Austria I London I PARIS I MONACO I DUBAI SINGAPORE I HONG KONG I SHANGHAI I BEIJING I BANGKOK I ABU DHABI

奢华生活


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ZUrich GSTAAD ST. MORITZ GENEVA London Paris DUsseldorf Doha Dubai Riga Astana MosCOW Singapore HONG KONG Cape Town New York

bespoke jewellery www.schuck-juwelier.ch


Imagine your perfect escape… welcome to Panacea.

Pack your days full of new challenges, unforgettable experiences and the activities you love. Share experiences, create lasting memories and spend time with the people you care about. The Panacea Retreat is a unique active resort with five exclusive luxury villas set on Thailand’s lush Koh Samui island—the ultimate luxury and leisure experience where every need is catered for. For more information or to order a brochure call +66 7743 00 74 or visit our website at www.panacea-retreats.com


Dear friends of Luxury Life

Publishers: Renato Schweizer & his daughter Patricia Schweizer

«A gift is worth only as much as the care with which it was chosen.»

礼物的价值,就在于 您在挑选礼物时所投 入的爱意。

Thyde Monnier, French author

泰德·莫奈尔(Thyde Monnier),法国作家

There is one time in the year when we all wonder, wide-eyed

又是一年圣诞时!每个人都会满心欢喜地期待

with anticipation, what we are going to be given this year –

着、揣度着:今年会收到怎样的圣诞惊喜?与

and that time is Christmas. The material value of a gift is worth

礼物的价格相比,您的浓浓心意、精心挑选和

less than the thoughtfulness which goes into it, the careful selection,

漂亮的包装,更是圣诞礼物中非常重要的部分。

the lovingly prepared wrapping. It has to be something special,

礼物,一定要非常特别、恰如其分…到底选择

something appropriate … but what? In a world in which every-

什么好呢?如今的人们似乎什么都不缺,因此选

one seems to have everything already, choosing a present is a

择礼物就成了一门学问。千万不要随意应付。

fine art. Do not just give anything. Select the gift with love. Just

请在这个过程中付出您的爱。在筛选本期刊物

as we have lovingly selected the subject matter for this issue.

内容时,我们也像挑选圣诞礼物一样,秉承着

What is the secret behind the major watch brands? Why is

这份真心真意:在那些著名腕表品牌的背后,有

Christian Louboutin suddenly interested in fingernails? Where did

着怎样的故事?为什么克里斯提•鲁布托忽然

Stephan Schuck get his ideas for his new jewellery collection?

对指甲油产生了兴趣?斯蒂芬·查克推出的全

What makes Bora Bora such an exclusive destination? Perhaps

新珠宝系列,灵感源自何处?波拉波拉岛作为

these and other articles in our Christmas Edition will provide just

一个度假胜地,为什么如此独特?也许就在您

the inspiration you need to make someone extremely happy.

阅读本期圣诞特刊的某篇文章时,忽然灵感一

We whole-heartedly hope so.

现,想出了一个赠礼的好点子。愿您准备出最 完美的圣诞礼物!

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Most cordially your Luxury Life Team Editorial


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Cont CONTENTS

40

12

HOTEL Quellenhof Resort

14

SEASONAL TIPS Christmas Gifts Ladies

18

SEASONAL TIPS Christmas Gifts Gentlemen

22

88

32

FASHION History meets style

25

GOURMET Whiskey production in its most elaborate way

26

INTERIOR Cultural heritage

28

REAL ESTATE Happy Living

30

LUXURY LIVING Interior News

32

HOTEL I TRAVEL Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora

40

YACHTING Saramour Megayacht by CRN

46

FASHION PORTRAIT Designer Christian Louboutin

54

HORLOGERIE Seduced by Nature

56

JEWELLERY The Magic of the wild Blossom


ntent s

54

62

LUXURY SHOPPING Outletcity Metzingen

66

NEWS & PREVIEWS Winter

72

HISTORY The Secrets of the most legendary Timepieces

84

CIGARS A Private Bank for Cigars

88

MEDICAL & HEALTH New Hair – New Life

94

AUTOMOBILE Executive Express

98

CULTURE Sharing Luxury

102

ART Spheres in Space by Constanze Reinhardt

104

ART Art and Chinese Modernity by Jiang Hai

106

GOURMET Art of Giving

110

JEWELLERY Inspired by Nature

112

MUST HAVE Christmas

46

84

72


Wellness FIVE STAR Sport & Wellness Resort

Quellenhof By Patricia Schweizer Translation Louise Mawbey

12

Hotel


Chalet at the lake 250 m² with private pool, jacuzzi and outdoor sauna

Explore the most multi-faceted and innovative spa and sports paradise in the South Tyrol. Connoisseurs appreciate the gourmet cuisine with its South Tyrol specialities and classic Mediterranean dishes. Not just one but two master chefs ply their trade in the kitchen at the 5 star resort Quellenhof – Walter Raffl and Michael Mayr cater for the guests together with a 35-person team. The 8,000 m² wellness and spa area boasts four indoor pools, three outdoor pools, a saltwater pool, a grotto, the “Salounge” salt inhalation room and 20 saunas, all guaranteeing sensuous enjoyment. The children’s play areas are located separately from the extensive, tranquil park with its bathing pond. A unique feature

Penthouse-Chalet 200 m² with private terrace, jacuzzi and outdoor sauna

南蒂罗尔(South Tyrol) —spa和运动的创意天堂 南蒂罗尔独特的美食和地中海经典菜肴,博得了众多美食家的 好评。在该省的昆兰霍夫酒店( Quellenhof)里,两位主厨沃尔 特·拉夫尔(Walter Raffl)和迈克尔·迈耶(Michael Mayr)与其 35人团队共同为客户提供最高品质的餐饮服务。 占地面积达8,000 m²的康体和spa区,共有四个室内泳池,三个 室外泳池,一个盐水泳池、一个人工洞穴、索兰奇(“Salounge”) 吸盐理疗室和20个桑拿房,是愉悦身心的完美之选。独立的儿 童娱乐区,内有一个戏水池,旁边是广阔安静的公园。该度假 村的医疗中心亦是独具特色,专营预防性和美容药品。

of the resort is the Medical Center, specialising in preventative

对于富有活力的度假者而言,Quellenhof是一个真正的运动天

and aesthetic medicine. For active holidaymakers, Quellenhof

堂,一个4洞高尔夫球场,一个配有20个发球台的练习场(其

is a real sports Eldorado, with a 4-hole golf course plus driving

中10个有遮蔽设施),一片可以练习推杆、切杆和劈杆的绿

range with 20 tees (10 of which are covered), a putting, chipping

地,一个视频系统、一个美国职业高尔夫球协会(PGA)的高尔

and pitching green, a Scope video system, PGA golfing school

夫球学校和两名驻场职业高尔夫球手。此外,还有八个免费网

and 2 golf pros. 8 tennis courses are available free of charge.

球场和一个赛马场。赛马场中有练习骑马的小围场、20匹训练

Guests can also enjoy the riding arena with paddock, 20 trained

有素的马匹和各种规格的赛马场。两个设施齐全的健身房,每

horses and a wide range of courses. In the two excellently-equip-

天由专业教练提供精品健身课程:普拉提( Pilates )、瑜伽、气

ped fitness rooms, coaching is available every day and numerous

功、水中有氧运动、背部运动、甩脂机(Power Plate)。Quellen-

workouts are on offer (Pilates, yoga, Qi Gong, aquarobics, back exercises, Power Plate…). The Quellenhof bike store contains 100 top-class Cube bikes and each week at least 2 tours with professional bike guides are on offer, which enable cyclists to explore the spectacular Passeier Valley scenery. And “only the best is good enough” also applies to the suites. For example, guests can treat themselves to one of the highly exclusive suites with Vispring beds, Dolby Surround System,

hof自行车库有100辆顶级酷博(Cube)自行车。每周至少举行2 小时的自行车远足活动,在导游的带领下,探游帕西里亚山谷 (Passeier Valley)的壮丽景色。 酒店套房也充分体现了“只要最好的”理念。这些顶级奢华的 套房中配有维斯普伦 (Vispring )床、杜比(Dolby )环绕声系统、 室内桑拿浴室和私密阳台上的加热按摩浴缸。或者,还可以选 择设施精美的小屋,其配备有无边泳池、桑拿和按摩浴缸。

in-suite sauna and heated whirlpool on the private loggia. Sumptuous chalets with an infinity pool, sauna and whirlpool are also

Quellenhof Resort I 39010 St. Martin bei Meran I South Tyrol

available on request.

Italy I Reservation +39 0473 645474 I www.quellenhof.it

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Crescendo

www.century.com


TH E

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BREUNINGER STUTTGART MARKTSTRASSE 1-3 70173 STUTTGART BREUNINGER.COM


ALFA ROMEO BENTLEY BIZZARINI BUGATTI FERRARI JAGUAR ISO LAGONDA LAMBORGHINI LANCIA LOTUS MASERATI MERCEDES-BENZ PORSCHE ROLLS-ROYCE TALBOT

LUTZIGER CLASSIC CARS PURCHASE & SALE OF CLASSIC CARS SINCE 1979

Switzerland I +41 (0) 56 631 1000 I info@lutziger-classiccars.ch I www.lutziger-classiccars.ch


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A unique window to the universe of watches and jewellery where all key players showcase trendsetting creations and innovations. Seize this opportunity to experience passion, precision and perfection.

M ARCH 19 – 26, 2015


EMMA PARKER

History meets style.

By Patricia Schweizer Translation Mark S. Kennedy

Emma Parker is a young fashion brand with a focus on parkas, jackets

艾玛·派克(Emma Parker)是一个年轻的时尚品牌,主要经营男

and coats for women and men. High quality and handmade go without

女派克大衣、夹克和外套。高质量和手工制作自不必多

saying. But Emma Parker is much more than that. Its history is touching

说,Emma Parker远不止于此。它的故事亦是感人至深 — 对该

– and of significance for the brand.

品牌也有着重要意义。

Emma, the great-grandmother of the present founder of the company,

艾玛(Emma)是该公司创始人的曾祖母,一位技艺高超的裁缝。

was a trained seamstress and in the post-war period had to provide for her children alone. So she tailored warm jackets for soldiers, neighbours and friends, and naturally also for her own family, to ensure survival. Inspired and at the same time moved by her dedication to the family, he named his fashion brand after her. The Ladies and Mens collection today primarily consists of parkas with fur, and sleeveless jackets in Vintage Army Style. During production, attention is paid to perfect

兵、邻居和朋友,当然还有自己的家人,缝制温暖的夹克以维持 生计。受此启发,再加上对于曾祖母为这个家庭所做贡献的感 激之情,创始人以她的名字命名了该时装品牌。该品牌的男装 和女装系列主要款式,就是派克皮毛大衣和老式军装风格的无 袖夹克。生产过程中,该品牌十分注重完美用料和皮毛的品

material properties and certification of the fur. Only in this way can the

质,只有如此,才能保证其最佳质量和耐用性。所有产品均在

best quality and durability be guaranteed. All products are handmade

巴伐利亚(Bavaria)手工制作完成,以达到最高标准,因此,每

in Bavaria to meet the highest standards, so each item retains its

一件商品都能保持其自身的个性和特色,并且,其中还有继续

individuality and its own character. And a little bit of Emma lives on.

生存着一点点“Emma”。

www.emmaparker.de

22

战后,她不得不凭借一己之力,抚养自己的孩子,她靠为士

Fashion

www.emmaparker.de


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Jeff Arnett, Master Distiller

Distillery

Jack Daniel‘s Tennessee Whiskey Whiskey production in its most elaborate way.

以最精益求精的方式生产的威士忌

Exclusiveness, an outstanding whiskey production and quality on the

独一无二的口感,最高水准的威士忌酿造过程和质量,让杰

highest level make the noble members of the Jack Daniel‘s family a perfect choice for the holiday season. The founder Jasper “Jack” Daniel chose the complex charcoal mellowing process for his Whiskey

克·丹尼(Jack Daniel‘s)系列中的贵族成员们成为了假期佳节的完 美选择。创始人贾斯珀·“杰克”·丹尼( Jasper “Jack” Daniel)选

production in which every drop of whiskey is slowly dripped and

择复杂的木炭柔和法工艺生产威士忌。在这一工艺中,每一滴

mellowed through 10 feet of hard sugar maple charcoal which results

威士忌均缓慢滴入并通过10英尺的硬质糖枫木炭醇化,从而实

in the whiskey`s outstanding pure and mild taste. The Gentleman Jack

现威士忌的超纯柔和口感。绅士杰克(Gentleman Jack )威士忌是

is the only whiskey which passes through the charcoal mellowing

唯一经过木炭柔和两次过滤的威士忌,有着特别柔和的回味。-

filtering twice resulting in an especially gentle finish. The Jack Daniel‘s

Jack Daniel‘s 的单桶威士忌(Single Barrel)是由品酒大师小组(Master

Single Barrel is simply one of a kind. Only one out of every 100 barrels is handselected by the Master Tasting Team for its one-of-a-kind flavour, robust taste and notes of toasted oak, vanilla and caramel.

Tasting Team)百里挑一甄选出来的的威士忌,它拥有独一无二的

风味、口感和含有烤橡木、香子兰及焦糖香气。至于“买一

With “Buy the Barrel” whiskey fans have the unique opportunity to

桶”(Buy the Barrel)威士忌,爱好者可以专享购买自己那一份“

purchase their very own barrel of Single Barrel select – carefully selec-

单桶”精选威士忌的机会 — 由馏酒大师(Master Distiller)细心甄

ted and hand-signed by the Master Distiller.

www.jackdaniels.com

选并亲手签名。

www.jackdaniels.com

25


Antiques Cultural heritage By Sara Musinowski Translation Mark S. Kennedy

Cultural heritage – exclusive fashion, accessories & antiques Swiss Christmas Shopping – visit Rudolf & Ruth Bosch.

visits historical buildings to personally install the fur-

niture. They are also ready to fly in to your location

worldwide to give an expert opinion on your antiques. Visit the shop in Erlenbach, near Zurich, to see the exhibition of antiques and elegant accessories.

On the other hand, his wife, Ruth Bosch, is hosting

26

The antique emporium, Rudolf Bosch Antiquitäten, has built up an

and leading two boutiques, presenting a selection

excellent reputation in the restoration of antique furniture. Since

of exclusive fashion, accessories and antiques –

the company was founded in 1991, Mr. Bosch and his team have

mostly the finest clothing for women, men & chil-

devoted themselves to restoring valuable and unique pieces,

dren, including labels such as Polo Ralph Lauren,

specialising in Swiss ebonists – a job title that has been given

Habs-burg, Seductive & Stajan. The boutiques are

to cabinetmakers since the 17th century. Furniture of this kind

situated in historic buildings in “Niederdörfchen”

represents an investment for the future that can also be enjoyed

in the old town of Zurich and also in the midst of

in the present; owners can take renewed pleasure from the beauty

the old town of Zug, near Zurich. You will be served

of the decorative pieces every day. The items are also ideal for

in tastefully appointed stores – be inspired by the

a Christmas present – complementing classic or modern interiors

unique cachè. Your Swiss Christmas Shopping in an

perfectly. In addition to restoring antique furniture, Rudolf Bosch

authentic Swiss atmosphere – enjoy it!

Antiquitäten also offers services such as panelling, and the team

www.rudolf-bosch.ch

Rudolf & Ruth Bosch Antiquitäten & Fashion Interior

Seestrasse 16, 8703 CH - Erlenbach I Kirchgasse 22, CH - 8001 Zürich I Neugasse 19-21, CH - 6300 Zug


atelier-zuppinger.ch

s

Plate Tableware or part of a watch movement? Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org

Plate | The plate which bears the various movement parts and in particular the bridges. The dial is usually affixed to the bottom side of the plate. The plate is pierced with holes for the screws and recesses for the jewels in which the pivots of the movement wheels will run.

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Happy

L I VING

28

1

Real Estate

By Sara Musinowski Translation Mark S. Kennedy

For Connie Mattheusser “feeling at ease” is important, whether in everyday life, when meeting with customers and employees, when working in new building projects and, last but not least, when relaxing in her own home. Feminine intuition and creativity are mixed with a certain practical sense of architectural detail in her formula for “happy living”.


2

3

4

She has a passion for designing, planning and creating unique residential properties with glamour and flair in some of Frankfurt’s most sought-after locations. After all, she is well aware that the heart plays a key role when it comes to a decision to purchase a private apartment. Formerly an advertising executive, Frankfurt-born Connie Mattheusser has used her many years of experience abroad (having studied in New York) to position herself as the First Lady of property marketing in her native city. She has successfully established her own company. “Even though I had a wonderful time in New York, St. Andrews, Manila and Barcelona, I am happy to return to Frankfurt for the lifestyle I can enjoy here,” she explains. Of course the city has plenty of charm and character, with a sophisticated artistic and cultural scene, plenty of green areas, pretty districts and excellent restaurants, as well as enjoying a re-

5

putation as one of the best and most stable property locations in Europe. It’s exciting to have the opportunity to play a part in the development and enhancement of the city through these new development projects. All selected properties in high-end locations, such as the Westend, Bornheim or the new European quarter are witness to Mattheusser´s sophisticated tastes: she quotes Coco Chanel’s aphorism “Art is the mistress of style” and enthuses about the elegant all-white interior, the warm wood tones, moss green and glamourous rose gold hues of the modern lamps used in her latest 3D visualisation. She is equally positive about her collaboration with her young, dynamic sales team: “We tend to take a fairly informal approach in my company – it’s important to feel at ease while you work, as that way we can best achieve the targets we have set ourselves.”

You’ll find further information at www.mattheusser.de

1 I praedium-frankfurt.de 2 I linneamwestendendplatz.de

3 I 4 I luv-und-lee-am-main.de 5 I thetwentyfive.de

Mattheusser Immobilienvertriebsgesellschaft mbH Goethestr. 26 I 60313 Frankfurt am Main I Germany T +49 (0)69 29 99 28-0 I info@mattheusser.de

Cornelia Mattheusser & Julia Seidel


LUXURYLIVING Interior N ews

Tweetie by CASAMANIA. Design: Jake Phipps Tweetie, the lamp system designed by Jake Phipps in collaboration with BOSA. Jake Phipps’s idea of the cage traces the tradition of canary in homes. Canary presence in households dates back to the Egyptian and Roman civilizations; in Middle Ages and in English courts, it was a sign of good manners to have canaries in the sitting room. Thus, an icon of British high-ranking state turns into a Casamsnia object-lamp. A symbolic figure, enhanced by gold plating and made useful for its illuminating function. Birds are made in BOSA hand-decorated ceramics, black painted or 24 carats gold plated, the frame is in metal rod, either black painted or gold plated in the total gold version. www.casamania.it

Healey Lounge by Walter Knoll. Design: PearsonLloyd Mood piece. Healey Lounge is a modern lounge chair that supports the rituals of our everyday medial life. The outer shell carries the soft upholstery – underlined by the distinctive piped quilting. A genuine tribute to the seats of legendary classic cars. Flowing lines trace the shape pre-

30

cisely. An elegant shell envelops the seat and armrests. www.walterknoll.de


Bouquet by MOROSO. Design: Tokujin Yoshioka Simple forms of poetry and beauty. From a slim chrome metal stem blooms a bouquet of petals, formed from squares of fabric which are hand folded and sewn one by one by skilled hands and infinite patience. A tribute to the almost spiritual beauty which lies in the simplicity of a repeated gesture, unveiling the line between vision and the actual image. The coat of petals wraps the egg shaped shell until all the interior is covered. Allegory of dreams, sophisticated poetic transformation celebrated in an

KENNEN SIE architare? EINES DER BESTEN EINRICHTUNGSHÄUSER DEUTSCHLANDS!

object of industrial design. The chair makes everyone who sits in it happy, like the gift of a bouquet of flowers. www.moroso.it

W O H N E N

|

O F F I C E

&

O B J E K T

Das architare-Team entwickelt maßgeschneiderte Interiorkonzepte für Privatkunden, Gastronomie und den Büro-/ Objektbereich. Von der Planung bis zur Umsetzung bieten wir exzellente Einrichtung aus einer Hand. architare – Richten Sie sich auf das Beste ein. 72202 Nagold | Vordere Kernenstraße 2 | Telefon 07452 - 8475080 | www.architare.de


Stylish elegance reflected in the

South Pacific 南太平洋的时尚优雅 By Patricia Schweizer I Uwe Herzog Translation Louise Mawbey I Mark S. Kennedy Photos Four Seaons

In the mornings, the ocean is as calm as a newly ironed cloth stretched across the lagoon. There is still not a soul on the beach. I squint as I glimpse the first rays of the sun. Above the atoll, small clouds, like tufts of cotton wool, dance across the sky. The scenery is cloaked in a strange magic which envelops me and draws me into the turquoise water. It is the magic of Bora Bora – the “island idyll par excellence”. 32

Hotel

清晨的海洋,平静得如同铺在环礁 湖上的一块刚刚熨烫过的布。海滩 空无一人。我眯起眼睛,欣赏这第 一缕阳光。环礁上方飘浮着淡淡薄 云,好似棉花朵朵,在天空起舞。 魔法色彩笼罩的景致将我深深吸 引,拉着我走向蓝绿色的海水。这 就是波拉波拉岛(Bora Bora)的魔 法 — “最美田园之岛”。


Genuine smiles on the faces of the reception staff greet us as

当我们的渡船停靠在四季酒店(Four Seasons)码头

our shuttle boat moors on the jetty of the “Four Seasons”. The golf

时,接待员以真诚的微笑欢迎我们。随后高尔夫

cart then takes us through the extremely well-manicured gardens,

球车带我们穿过修剪整齐的花园,花园里生长着

with their palms and fragrant frangipani trees. But then, all at

高大的棕榈树和芬芳的赤素馨。突然间,拥有白

once, a view across the vastness of the lagoon opens up, revealing

色海滩的环礁湖跳入视野,而海滩散发出质朴的

its white beaches which gleam so pristinely that they appear

光芒,好像从未有人在上面走过。 毫无疑问,在两

never to have been walked on. And we are left in no doubt – with the “Four Seasons”, the two French architects Didier Lefort and Pierre-Jean Picart have successfully created a premium class resort, here on Bora Bora, in the middle of the South Pacific. Inspired by ideas from owner Thierry Barbion, 100 extraordinary over-water bungalows and 7 sophisticated beachfront villas have been constructed.

位法国建筑师迪迪埃·莱佛特(Didier Lefort)和皮埃 尔·吉恩·皮卡特(Pierre-Jean Picart)的精心设计 下,这个位于南太平洋中部波拉波拉岛的四季酒 店成为一个仙境般的顶级度假村。 按照拥有者裴天瑞·巴比昂(Thierry Barbion)的想 法,度假村拥有100所水上别墅和7座精致的海 滨别墅。

Hotel

33

Herenui Overwater Bungalow Suite


Over Water Bungalows

Couples Spa Suite

Otemanu Three Bedroom Pool Villa

Plus a spa, which is unrivalled in terms of facilities and therapies,

spa馆的设施和疗法均无与伦比;酒吧和顶级餐

as well as bars and top-class restaurants whose cuisine and

厅则提供令人难忘的美食和服务。一份知名旅游

service ensure unforgettable memories. A renowned travel guide

指南将“四季酒店”称为法属玻利尼西亚群岛(

has named the “Four Seasons” the “number 1 resort” in the French

French Polynesian islands)的“第一度假村”。但

Polynesian islands. But Luxury Life does not quite agree. Our edi-

《奢华生活》杂志(Luxury Life)不能完全认同这种

tors believe that the “Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora” is actually

说法。我们的编辑认为,“波拉波拉岛四季度假

one of the best locations for a relaxing holiday in the entire world.

村”(Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora)实际上是全

The magnificent palm garden is fringed with the resort’s beach villas – with their spacious living rooms and bedrooms, high ceilings, exquisite parquet flooring and select designer furniture. Particularly impressive design features are the illuminated 3D wall niches containing artefacts reflecting the cultural heritage of the French Polynesian islands. Elegant private pools are secluded from public view but they nevertheless allow a view of the lagoon. With an area of between 300 and 500 m²,

34

Hotel

世界最好的休闲度假场所之一。 壮丽的棕榈树花园,点缀着度假村的座座海滩别 墅 — 别墅中则有着宽敞的起居室和卧室、高耸的 天花板、精致的拼花木地板以及一流的设计师品 牌家具。尤其令人印象深刻的设计,则是配有照 明设备的壁龛,里面摆放着体现法属玻利尼西亚 群岛文化传统的手工艺品。优美的私人泳池避开

these villas are especially well-suited to families, or to wedding

了公众视线,但仍不妨碍欣赏到环礁湖的景致。

couples who spend the “most wonderful day of their lives“

这些别墅面积在300到500平方米之间,尤其适

against the idyllic backdrop of the South Pacific.

合家庭或新婚夫妇在南太平洋田园诗般的地方度 过“他们一生中最美妙的日子”。


我们做出了其他选择 — “四季酒店”壮丽的水 上别墅,其质朴的“渔夫小屋”与原汁原味的环 礁湖完美融为一体。这些别墅就像项链上的珍珠 沿水岸串在一起,漂浮在海面上。五颜六色的鱼 群愉快在游弋在别墅脚柱周围。黑白条纹相间、 且带有亮黄色肉冠的斑马鱼,更让人感觉自由自 在。而威严的蝠鲼、梭鱼以及非常安静的鲨鱼也 是一副独来独往、我行我素的样子。 如同海滩别墅一样,水上别墅内也配有拼花木地 板、舒适扶椅、雅观的照明和时尚的配饰。所有 房间都可以欣赏到环礁湖景致 一 对面就是奇形 怪状的环礁山景,以及广阔的海滩。海滩上一排 排的棕榈树,在南太平洋的和风中摇曳着修长的 绿叶。到达后,迎接我们的是一瓶冰镇香槟,以 及一份盛放在新鲜椰子壳内的五彩水果拼盘,这 让我们的旅途疲惫顿消。恢复精力后,我直接从 栈桥下水环绕别墅游起泳来,然后在木质露台上 晒日光浴。 午餐时间,我们漫步到位于海滩上的餐厅。我们 在“特雷努伊”(Tere Nui)餐厅驻足停留,点了 一些地方风味。前菜有精制香料茄子或鹰嘴豆

We choose a different option – the spectacular overwater

糕,开胃菜则是椰子汁色拉或烤鲯鳅(Mahi

bungalows of the “Four Seasons” which, with their genuine

Mahi,当地特色鱼品之一)。美味佳肴均是露天

“fishing hut” charm, fit perfectly into the authentic lagoon world.

享用,边吃边欣赏环礁湖景致。接下来的几天,

Strung out along the water’s edge like pearls on a necklace,

我们常常在这里吃配有当地可口水果和精选甜点

this ensemble of bungalows appears to float above the ocean.

的自助早餐。

Multi-coloured schools of fish swim playfully around the bungalows’ stilts. The black-and-white striped zebrafish, with its bright yellow comb, feels particularly at home here. However, majestic manta rays, barracudas and small, extremely tranquil sharks also solemnly go about their business. Just as with the beach villas, guests in the bungalows are also treated to panelled precious wood floors, comfortable armchairs, tasteful lighting and stylish accessories. All the rooms offer a view of the lagoon – across to the bizarre mountainous landscape of

费和海滩酒吧(Faré Hoa Beach Bar)对于喜欢 交际和享受池边气氛的朋友来说是个好去处。这 里的午餐还包含调制完美的鸡尾酒 — 以及休闲 的海滩环境。在日落之前,我们前往日落餐厅 (Sunset Restaurant),那里有超赞的寿司。阿 里摩纳餐厅(Arii Moana)则是享用浪漫烛光晚餐 的首选。顶级法属玻利尼西亚菜肴拥有美食家所 渴求的一切。极力推荐多汁嫩牛肉片 — 味道真

the atoll and along the extensive beaches lined with palms,

是太美了!每日特色菜单都会提供美味鱼类菜

whose green fronds sway in the gentle Pacific wind. On arrival,

肴。其酒窖也极富盛名。所有酒吧和餐厅的员工

we are greeted by a bottle of well-cooled champagne and a

都会尽心尽力服侍宾客,让您感受传说中的玻利

colourful fruit medley in freshly opened coconut shells which

尼西亚人的友好。 Hotel

35


Pool cabana

Arii Moana

revive us after the journey. Invigorated, I swim a circuit around the bungalow directly from the jetty, then sunbathe on the wooden terrace. At lunchtime, we stroll across to the restaurants on the beach. To begin our stay, we choose the “Tere Nui”, with its local dishes. The platter of starters, with delicately spiced aubergine or chickpea cream, whets the appetite for dishes such as salad with coconut milk or grilled “Mahi Mahi” – one of the region’s fish specialities. The delicious platters are all served in the open air, with a view of the lagoon. In the days that follow, we often come here to enjoy the extensive buffet breakfast with delectable local fruit and choice pastries. The Faré Hoa Beach Bar is the ideal place for those who are fond of company and like the poolside atmosphere. Lunch here also includes perfectly mixed cocktails – and laid-back beach flair. Just before sundown, we move on to the “Sunset Restaurant” with its magical sushi creations. And the “Arii Moana” restaurant is the perfect location for a stylish and romantic candlelight dinner. The top-class French Polynesian cuisine offers everything a gourmet’s heart desires. The succulently tender filet of beef is highly recommended – and simply delicious! Sumptuous fish dishes feature on the menu of daily specials. The “Arii Moana” 36

Hotel


Two Bedroom Villa family view towards beach

Three Bedroom Otemanu Beachfront Villa


Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora

also boasts an excellent wine cellar. In all the bars and restaurants,

第二天清晨,我们被透过百叶窗的缕缕阳光唤醒

guests are pampered by the local staff and their legendary

— 享用通过独木舟送到我们别墅露台的美妙私人

Polynesian friendliness.

早餐。丰富有趣的一天开始了:在迷人的珊瑚礁 间浮潜,骑乘高速摩托艇,由经验丰富的导游带

The next morning, we are awoken by the sun’s rays shining into

领徒步穿行神秘的环礁山景地 — 波拉波拉岛的

the room in stripes through the blinds – and by a heavenly private

多面性,也赋予了游客丰富多彩的探寻机会。

breakfast, delivered by canoe and served on the terrace of our bungalow. We begin an action-packed day: snorkelling amongst the fascinating coral reefs, jet skiing at lightning speed and a hiking tour through the atoll’s mysterious mountain landscape with an experienced guide – the opportunities for exploring Bora Bora are as diverse as the island itself. A visit to the resort’s exquisite spa is a highlight for body and soul. After a two-hour treatment in the fabulous “Kahaia Spa Suite” with massages and fragrant oils, we slip into a flower petal bath where we enjoy a bottle of champagne. And a dream comes true – while the evening sun dies away over the lagoon and the cloth on the surface of the glistening water is stretched 38

out once again. Hotel

www.fourseasons.com

拜访度假村雅致的 spa馆,对身体和灵魂都是一 次洗礼和升华。在仙境般的凯海兰时尚套房 (Kahaia Suite)接受两个小时按摩和香熏油疗后, 再来一次芳香花瓣浴,享用一瓶香槟酒。当夕阳 沉入环礁湖,闪闪发光的水面又一次恢复了平 静。这一刻,恍若梦想成真。

www.fourseasons.com


T A H I T I

L O S

A N G E L E S

P A R I S

T O K Y O

A U C K L A N D

S Y D N E Y

Your Tahitian experience starts right from boarding

Maeva - Welcome With its five new generation airbus A340-300, Air Tahiti Nui can provide optimum comfort. The aircrafts are fitted with 296 seats in two classes, with 32 lie flat cocoon seats in Poerava Business class and 264 seats in

New seats with HD screen and video on demand

Moana class, all equipped with individual HD screens and video on demand. Our crew will welcome you on board, in keeping with pure Polynesian tradition by offering you a Tiare flower, a symbol of our islands. You will experience the kindness, sense of hospitality and

One Name. Many Stories.

authenticity of Polinesian people throughout your journey.

w w w. a i r t a h i t i n u i . c o m

Flights with partner airlines to Paris available from various European cities.


61

Saramour

MEGAYACHT By Renato Schweizer


Fly Deck

CRN, part of the Ferretti Group, is proud to unveil M/Y CRN 133 Saramour, a 61 metre megayacht built in their historical Ancona ship-yard. The Italian company specializes in the construction of fully-customized displacement megayachts made of steel and aluminum, ranging from 40 - 90 metres.

Saramour can accommodate 10 guests and 13 crew members across five guest cabins, including two suites, two VIP cabins and the Master Stateroom.

Design and style The interior style is classic and modern with design elements that draw inspiration from the automotive sector, a trademark of Francesco Paszkowski Design. Its exterior profile is characterized by harmonious lines and a timeless design style that flawlessly blend together, resulting in a refined and clear aesthetic, further enhanced by the polished white and light grey shades of the hull. A minimal style has been chosen for the interiors,

Launched at a private ceremony in March, Saramour is the result

where curved lines, light, fluid spaces and recur-

of the strong synergy between the Owner and the shipyard.

rent design elements result in visual consistency

CRN’s Technical Department pioneered the naval design and

throughout the yacht. This contemporary approach

engineering, while Francesco Paszkowski Design developed the

has been applied to all the furniture and furnishings,

yacht’s exterior lines and sophisticated interiors, in collaboration

a solution that was designed to accommodate

with CRN’s Interiors and Design Department.

and enhance the precious works of art personally

The vessel has an overall length of 61.3 metres and a beam of

chosen by the Owner to turn the yacht into a large,

10.20 metres that develops over five decks with a sub lower deck.

personal “art gallery”. Yachting

41


Canaletto walnut, burgundy lacquered wood and Thala Beige natural marble are particularly prevalent in the interior, and ensure a consistent theme and color palette throughout the yacht.

Interior layout The main salon can be accessed aft through the large and comfortable cockpit on the main deck, featuring a guest lounge in bright, lively colors. The walls and floors are in Canaletto walnut to match the lacquered burgundy of the furniture and the Thala Beige marble used in the wall recesses. Conceived as a large open space, the salon and dining area operate as one functional and elegant room, with ancient Persian rugs. Designed to be the vessel’s social hub, the space includes a 55” screen TV set that is concealed in the ceiling panels and a custom made dining table with a Murano glass top that can seat 12 guests. In the central part of the yacht is a circular lobby with a glass lift that connects all decks. An aerial winding staircase, specifically designed to let light shine through the suspended steps that are lined with LEDs, runs around the lift. Walking towards the bow, to portside, is the wide professional galley, with a fully-custom central island, featuring the same color palettes as the guest areas. On the starboard side, sinuous lines that run across the sea view balcony area, mark the entrance to the exclusive guest apartment, consisting of a suite connected to an adjoining living room. The central part of the vessel is made up of a suite and two VIP cabins. The former is a true masterpiece in terms of style and design solutions, with the bed and bathroom areas divided by

SaramourY a transparent glazed surface with a Venetian blind, creating

warm light effects. The suite is completed by a large walk-in wardrobe with marble walls.

Located past the central lobby are the other two VIP cabins, both with ensuite bathroom facilites, a lounge, and a concealed TV set that can be lowered from the ceiling.

Owner’s area

For the first time ever on a CRN vessel of this size, the upper deck

is devoted entirely to the Owner, allowing him to enjoy cruising

and life onboard with the utmost privacy. The cockpit comprises of a large, outdoor dining area, to ensure that the Owner and his

guests can enjoy their meals with magnificent panoramic views of the sea. The spacious salon is characterized by the soft colors

of the furniture and décor, interrupted only by the burgundy shade of the partition, complete with an integrated TV set.

42

Yachting


Main Deck I Main Salon

r acht Y VIP Suite I Lounge Room

VIP Suite

Yachting

43


Owner’s Bathroom

Fitness Wellness Area

Owner’s Suite

44

Towards the bow is the master stateroom, separated from the

Exterior layout

lobby by a C-shaped glazed panel that is activated by the simple

At 61 metres in length, Saramour boasts an addi-

touch of a button. This design solution has been implemented

tional deck, the fly deck, designed with guests’

to allow guests to move around the various decks and use

onboard wellbeing in mind. A wide sunbathing

the sundeck, wellness and fitness areas without affecting the

area can be found at the extreme stern, furnished

Owner’s privacy.

with comfortable chaise longues and a lounge area

In line with traditional layouts, the master cabin is located at the

that can be converted into a helipad for the touch-

extreme bow. It is an open-plan space complete with an elegant

and-go landing of a helicopter weighing up to 3

sliding door, that opens up onto a private deck with a square

tons. Inside, the fitness area is fitted with Techno-

swimming pool, decorated with a light blue and white mosaic.

gym training equipment and a massage bed.

The swimming pool, lined in bent teak obtained from a special

The aft area on the lower deck hosts the beach

hand processing, can be covered, if necessary and converted

club, a true peaceful ‘oasis’ devoted to relaxation.

into a large sunbathing area.

The aft door opens up to reveal a solarium deco-

The Owner’s bathroom features a beautiful white oval bathtub

rated with patterns inspired by the ocean land-

and a large shower with glazed walls decorated with a refined

scape. This area is fitted with a TV lounge, com-

gold leaf and burgundy flower patterned mosaic. The Owner’s

fortable chaise longue, an icemaker, a refrigerator

area is completed by an office and walk-in wardrobe; these

and a shower. The two symmetrical garages can

rooms are further personalized with various world-class works

fit two large tenders (an 8.20-metre Riva Iseo and

of art and stylish elements of décor.

a 6.40-metre Castoldi) and located beyond them are the control room and the engine room.

Yachting


Owner’s Spapool

The entire audio-video entertainment and home automation system (curtains, lights and air conditioning), developed by CRN in cooperation with Videoworks, can be controlled by user-friendly iPad and iPadMini devices.crn A carbon external ladder from the fly deck grants access to the sky deck. A stylish design choice, carbon also ensures incredible lightness to the ladder frame, which can thus be lifted, allowing the crew to easily access the storage compartments below. A large round Jacuzzi with sunbathing area has been installed in the central part of the sun deck, sheltered by the main mast, and an additional sunbathing area can be found towards the bow. Saramour is equipped with two 3512 C-C 1230 kW@1800 rpm Caterpillar engines that push her to a maximum speed of 15 knots and a cruising speed of 14 knots.

www.ferrettigroup.com

Owner’s Spapool


Photo Alex Milstom

Christian Louboutin


巴黎夜幕降临时

The most famous dealer of dangerous

WEAPONS By Uwe Herzog Translation Louise Mawbey

Devotees claim they would be able to tell it apart from that of other brands while blindfolded – the sound made by a heel from the Christian Louboutin shoe collection. And one thing is for sure, the high heels with the typical red sole unsettle and beguile wherever they go. Now their creator is once again

忠实粉丝声称,即使蒙着眼睛,仅

making the headlines.

凭克里斯提•鲁布托(Christian

Yolanda Strass & Spikes, 120 mm

Louboutin)系列高跟鞋的鞋跟发出 The name Christian Louboutin has long been etched into the

的声响,也能将其与其它品牌区分

hearts of pampered shoe aficionados and into the memories

开来。有一点是肯定的,极具代表

of observant flâneurs. No, the designs are not just “shoes”

性的红鞋底高跟鞋无论走到哪里都

that accompany the strides of the world’s most beautiful legs.

会令人神魂颠倒。如今,该品牌的

They are true works of art. Nicole Kidman, Jennifer Lopez, Cameron Diaz and Caroline of Monaco have been spotted

创造者再次登上了媒体头条。

Fashion

47


长久以来,克里斯提•鲁布托(Christian Louboutin)这个名字一直为傲骄鞋品爱好者所 津津乐道,被潮流触觉敏锐的时尚达人铭记在 心。它们不仅仅是“鞋子”,因为,是它们伴 随着世界上著名的美腿迈开了前行的步伐。它 们是名副其实的艺术品。妮可·基德曼(Nicole Kidman)、詹妮弗·洛佩茨(Jennifer

Lopez)

、卡梅隆·迪亚兹(Cameron Diaz)和摩纳哥卡 洛琳(Caroline of Monaco)都曾将其纳于足 下,而麦当娜(Madonna)、维多利亚·贝克汉 姆(Victoria Beckham)、碧昂丝(Beyoncé)以 及安吉莉娜·朱力(Angelina Jolie)亦对其青睐 有加。纽约大都会艺术博物馆甚至专门为克里 斯提•鲁布托的作品举办了单独展览。展柜中 那些近乎超现实的“高跟芭蕾舞鞋”,以其近 25厘米的超高鞋跟,让所有参观者惊讶地张大 了嘴巴,包括一些小男生。 克里斯提•鲁布托为现实生活打造的款式也堪 称“恨天高”鞋跟高达14厘米。有人可能在 想,偶尔两脚挤进这超高鞋跟中,应该不会有 什么麻烦吧?就当是上了一堂芭蕾舞课。其实 High heel ballerina

这个问题无需担心,克里斯提•鲁布托作为鞋 类设计师中的“建筑师”,堪称该领域的工艺 名匠。毕竟,他完全从零起步走到今天,曾效 力于多家知名品牌,比如香奈儿(Chanel)、伊

wearing them, as have Madonna, Victoria Beckham, Beyoncé

夫·圣·洛朗(Yves Saint Laurent)、查尔斯·

and Angelina Jolie. The New York Metropolitan Museum of

卓丹(Charles Jourdan)以及梦飞嫦(Maud Frizon)

Modern Art has even dedicated a separate exhibition to

。他从小和姐姐一起长大,年轻时曾在著名的

Christian Louboutin’s creations. And it is not only little boys who stand there, mouths gaping, in front of the showcases containing the almost surreal “high heel ballerinas”, whose fabled heels measure a quarter of a meter. Christian Louboutin also “reaches for the heights” with the heels on his “real life” shoes – which can be up to 160 millimetres. One could imagine that a ballet class or two would do some of the shoes’ wearers no harm at all. But there is no need to

48

Fashion

巴黎卡巴莱歌舞剧院做过临时工,因此从女性 身上学到了很多东西。克里斯提•鲁布托像生 物学家研究蝴蝶一样细心研究女人:她们的结 构、体态、动作……和她们的美。因此,他的作 品以卓越的构造著称,不仅保证了相对可靠的 稳定性,更重要的是确保了鞋子极佳的外观。 穿上克里斯提•鲁布托作品的女性,不是在走

worry, Christian Louboutin, the “architect” amongst the shoe

路,而是在跳舞。伴随着红色鞋底鲜活的闪

designers, is a master of his craft. After all, he worked his

亮,她们仿佛始终踏在无形的“红地毯”上,

way up from the bottom – at Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent,

无论是在自动扶梯、出租车停靠站、餐桌间、

Charles Jourdan and Maud Frizon. And he has learnt the most

剧场阶梯,还是大型机场与购物商场的电动步

from the women themselves who have played an important

道,它们都如此受人瞩目,甚至超过了鞋跟踏


Daffodile Kid, 160 mm

Exagona Patent,160 mm

Pina Spike Patent, 120 mm

part in his life since growing up with his older sisters and

在地面上的清脆声音。自从《欲望都市》的女

temping in a famous Parisian cabaret theatre in his youth.

主角们穿着这些奢华美鞋踏上纽约人行道,克

Christian Louboutin studied women as closely as a biologist

里斯提•鲁布托高跟鞋就跻身成为世界上最令

studies butterflies: their structure, their posture, their movements

人垂涎的女鞋之一。

… and their beauty. His shoe models are therefore famous for their excellently engineered construction, which not only guarantees a comparably secure foothold but, more importantly, a stunning look. Women who wear shoes by Christian Louboutin do not just

出众的品位不仅仅来自鞋面,而鞋底才更见功 夫。红鞋底这一想法的起源简单而绝妙。多年 前,克里斯提•鲁布托正在他的巴黎工作室为 新鞋设计寻找一些特别的“东西”,他的助手

walk – they dance in them. They are permanently accompanied

则在一旁涂指甲。“给我用点?”鲁布托一边

by an invisible “red carpet”, as the flash of the vivid red soles

问,一边不假思索地将指甲油涂到他设计的鞋

– which can be seen with increasing frequency on escalators,

底上。哇!效果惊艳!从此以后,这个女性装

at taxi ranks, between the tables of restaurants, on theatre

扮中最重要的单品,如同性感红唇一样散发出

steps and along the moving walkways at major airports and

无尽魅惑。美国女演员罗丝·麦高恩(Rose

shopping malls – is even more striking than the sound made

McGowan)在电影《恐怖星球》(Planet

by the heels. And ever since the extravagant eye-catchers were

Terror)中,以极度性感的外表一举成名。当《

Fashion

Pigalle Spikes Patent, 100 mm

49


明镜周刊》(“Spiegel”)记者问及女人在表演 诱惑脱衣舞时最重要的道具是什么时,罗丝· 麦高恩毫不犹豫地答道:“我的克里斯提•鲁 布托鞋!” 大卫·林奇(David Lynch)等电影导演,也很早 就发现了克里斯提•鲁布托鞋子的魅惑潜力。 在一次万众瞩目、名为“Fetish”(迷恋)的摄影 展中,林奇展示了这位大师工作室中的精彩鞋 模。而鲁布托特别为“魅惑时刻”打造的设计 当然是不可或缺的元素。这些都是设计师应客 户要求定制的鞋子,它们永远都不会出现在街 道上。其中包括一位珠宝商人送给生意伙伴的 一双长筒靴,从上到下镶满了红宝石。这样说 来,难道鲁布托仅仅是一个昂贵的道具,将女 性沦为廉价的性爱对象?非也,恰恰相反。他 的鞋子会将女人提升为女神,而且,更加符合 赫尔穆特·纽顿(Helmut Newton)和安妮·莱 Photo Robbie Fimmano

柏维兹(Annie Leibovitz)等著名摄影家经常说起 的一句名言:穿了鞋子的女人永远不算裸体。


also to be seen on New York’s sidewalks in the American TV

设计师鲁布托现在回到了他的“根本” — 推出

series “Sex and the City”, Christian Louboutin’s high heels have

了大气且复杂巧妙的指甲油作品,并区分为流

become some of the most coveted women’s shoes in the world.

行(Pop)、黑色(Noir)和裸体(Nude)多个系 列。“我喜欢设计产品,然后欣赏女人穿上它

The original idea of making shoes not only stand out from

们时的特别风情,比如以我从未想过的方式进

above but also from below was as simple as it was brilliant

行色彩搭配,”设计大师透露了他的设计理

– when, many years ago, Christian Louboutin was in his Paris

念,也表明了他现在已经准备好在美的世界中

studio searching for that special “something” for a new shoe creation, his assistant was painting her fingernails. “May I?” asked Louboutin and, without further ado, proceeded to paint the soles of his designs with the nail polish. Voilà! Since then, what is perhaps the most important part of a woman’s attire has given out the same erotic signals as sensually painted lips. The most compelling proof of this was provided by the American actress Rose McGowan, who made her name with an extremely

大展拳脚。克里斯提•鲁布托再次证明了他对 女人的充分了解:“当一个女人穿上我的鞋子 时,也是她展示自我和感受自我之时:她的姿 势、她的身体曲线以及她的腿部轮廓。行走是 从双腿开始的,足尖则是最终的环节。就像一 个楚楚动人的手势,它始于肩部一个优雅的动 作,但会一直沿着手臂延伸到指尖。”

sexy appearance in the film “Planet Terror”. When asked by a “Spiegel” reporter about what the most important requirement is when a woman wants to perform an enticing striptease, Rose McGowan answered without hesitation, “My Christian Louboutin shoes!”

Sweet Charity Small Nu

Attroupa Calf/Pony, 120 mm

51 Simplenodo Flat Patent

Mandolina Multi, 120 mm


Bille Et Boule Multi, 100 mm

Berlinissimo Veau Velours, 140 mm Lady Peep Sling Spikes, 150 mm

Film directors such as David Lynch also discovered the erotic

尽管克里斯提•鲁布托拥有超越凡人的观察

potential of Christian Louboutin’s shoe creations very early on.

力,但他首先将自己定义为一名艺术家,而

Lynch presented the most exciting models from his studio in an

非“女性研究生物学教授”:“红鞋底是源自

attention-grabbing photography exhibition entitled “Fetish”.

红色指甲油的创意。现在,我只是在某种程度

And designs that Louboutin had created especially for “moments

上,把多年前鞋子从指甲处借来的美,重新归

of erotic tension” were, of course, an integral element. These

还给指甲,”他愉快地表示。红鞋底和新的指

are the creator’s response to visits from customers asking for

甲油系列是其艺术水准的卓越体现,但只是这

custom-made shoes that will never be worn on the streets – including a jewellery dealer who gave his partner a pair of boots that were studded with rubies all the way down to the sole. So is Louboutin just a producer of expensive props that degrade women to cheap sex objects? No, exactly the opposite is true. His shoes elevate women to goddesses – and add a new dimension to an old saying that many great photographers, such as Helmut Newton and Annie Leibovitz, continually applied to their work: Women who wear shoes are never naked.

位巴黎设计师工作的两个基石,他同样擅长其 它很多类型的设计。例如,性感长统靴、精致 细高跟鞋和品味高雅的手提包。 克里斯提•鲁布托的专卖店已遍及46个国家。 甚至在越南、沙特阿拉伯和莫斯科,都可见到 穿着巴黎梦幻鞋品的女性。但它们并非女性专 属,因为这位“最知女人心”在鞋类设计师, 正在以其独特的设计吸引越来越多男性的关

The designer has now returned to his “roots” – with a spectacular series of highly sophisticated nail polish creations in the Pop, Noir and Nude ranges. “I love to create a product and see how a woman makes something very special out of it, for instance by wearing colours in a way that I would never have imagined,” the master craftsman revealed, explaining his motivation for now taking the world of beauty by storm. And once again, Christian Louboutin has proven that he really does understand women completely. “When a woman wears a pair of my shoes, she radiates the feeling of being true to herself: her posture, the curves of her body and the contours of her legs. The toes are the final part of the movement which starts with the leg. Just as the fingernails are the final part of a graceful gesture which begins at the shoulders, runs along the arms and finally reaches the fingertips.” 52

Fashion

Sweety Charity Nu Multi


Olympio Multi

Despite his infallible gift for observation, Christian Louboutin definitely does not see himself as a “biology professor for women’s studies”, but above all as an artist. “The red sole was created with red nail polish. And now, in a manner of speaking, I’m giving the nails back what the shoe took from

Bubble Gum

them many years ago,” he commented in celebratory mood. As celebratory as his art. The red soles and the new nail polish collection are just two cornerstones of the work of the

注。这些男款绝非女鞋店的点缀品,随意摆放

Paris designer, who excels with his many other creations. For

在那里,以供陪同女伴购物的男士消磨时间。

example, with sensational boots, with delicate stilettos –

好莱坞明星乔纳森·莱斯·梅耶斯(Jonathan

and, above all, with sophisticated handbags.

Rhys Meyers)就是钟情此品牌的男士之一。他 最近向一家杂志透露,他发现自己在经过克里

Christian Louboutin now has a presence in 46 countries.

斯提•鲁布托鞋店时,想不进去都不太可能,

Even in Vietnam, Saudi Arabia and Moscow, women can be

至少得换双鞋再走。

seen wearing the coveted shoes from Paris. But they are not

www.christianlouboutin.com

for the fairer sex only, as the creator with the best understanding of women amongst all the shoe designers is now increasingly thrilling men with an exquisite gent’s collection, which is a whole lot more than just an entertaining amusement for male companions who shift from one foot to the other, waiting while their partners try on shoes in one of Christian Louboutin’s boutiques. Hollywood star Jonathan Rhys Meyers is one of these men. He finds it “impossible to walk past a Christian Louboutin shop,” as he recently revealed to a magazine. At least not without changing his shoes. Shop online at www.christianlouboutin.com

Aliosha Backpack Multi Rantus Orlato Multi

53


Nature seduced by

Century

Allegory Temptation

The water lily, the legendary flower adored by artists,

makes a special appearance on Allegory, the evo-

cative new timepiece from CENTURY. Night, day, sun, moon: the Allegory story is woven around these four elements to evoke the passing of time and the succession of special moments, thanks to its secret watch mechanism. Available in two versions, one in red gold, the other in white gold, Allegory features a delicate rotating motif on its dial that hides the watch face, evoking the sun on the first model and the moon on the second. A decorative masterpiece, this small balance blends perfectly with the rest of the dial to portray a landscape resplendent with water lilies, which are open in the day version and closed in the night version. The CENTURY sapphire provides the perfect frame for this scene of naturalistic beauty. Positioned between the dial and the case of Allegory,

54

cut and polished entirely by hand, it features no less Horlogerie

than 96 facets. www.century.com


Vacheron

Métiers d’Art L’éloge de la nature

Loyal to its passion for artistic crafts, Vacheron Constantin continues its demonstration of expertise with

three exceptional one-of-a-kind models. These stunning timepieces from the Métiers d’Art L’éloge de la nature collection showcase several precious ornamental techniques through western or oriental-inspired animal scenes combining realism with graphic elements, and also proudly bear the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. Each dial depicts various wild animals captured in their natural environment and testifies to a realistic and graphic aesthetic stemming from a unique form of collaboration between several master artisans. The mechanical self-winding movement, Calibre 2460 G4, beating at a cadence of 28,800 vibrations per hour is equipped with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight adorned with a dynamic geometrical pattern inspired by the brand-emblem Maltese cross. Graced with exceptional finishing, the 237 parts of the movement are housed in an 18K 5N pink gold case with a transparent sapphire crystal caseback providing a chance to admire the fine workmanship of the calibre. www.vacheron-constantin.com

55


The oMagi c the f

Wild Blossom 野花魔力 By Uwe Herzog Translation Mark S. Kennedy

Swiss jewellery designer STEPHAN SCHUCK has been causing a stir with his unusual one-off designs for many years. Now he has launched a very special collection that marries the finest gold alloys with carefully selected diamonds and sapphires to immortalise the beauty of wild mountain meadows. These limited edition pieces cast their own unique spell. Luxury Life MAGAZINE decided to trace this magic to its origins. Once upon a time, high up in the mountains, lived the most beautiful fairies – so beautiful that no one had ever set eyes on

多年来,瑞士珠宝首饰设计师

them. None of the people in the surrounding villages ever dared

斯蒂芬·查克(STEPHAN

venture into their realm for fear of breaking their spell. One

SCHUCK)凭借非同寻常的珠

night, a small boy who could contain his curiosity no longer climbed up to their cave, determined to see the enchanted

宝设计而备受顾客青睐。现 Jewellery

57


creatures for himself at close quarters. Lo and behold, he found the fairies were even more delightful than the stories had fore-

在,他推出了一个非常特别的

told: they wore fantastical flowers in their hair and were bathed

限量版系列,将最高品质的金

in a wonderful glow from countless glittering crystals. “Here, my

合金与精选钻石和蓝宝石结合

lad,” said the most beautiful of them all. “Take this little purse and go back home. But you must never tell anyone where you

起来,体现高山草甸之美。这

got it from.”

些别有韵味的限量版珠宝系

In a story similar to this old Swiss fable, when six-year-old

列,吸引着《奢华生活》

STEPHAN SCHUCK made his first trip into mountains he retur-

(Luxury Life)的好奇心,决定

ned home with a rucksack full of glittering stones. A friend of his father had shown him the best places to look for natural crystals

一探其魔力渊源。

and together they mined the rock face for outstanding quartz and many other natural treasures. “We even found some real beauties lying about in the meadows,” remembers STEPHAN SCHUCK today. “The exposed patches of soil between the

很久以前,在山峦的山峰处,生活着一群最美

grasses and brightly coloured flowers glittered as the finest

丽的仙女 — 她们如此之美,以致于凡人无法直

crystals caught the sunlight. That’s when I knew that this fasci-

视。附近的村民没有人敢踏入她们的世界,害

nation would never leave me.”

怕打破她们的魔咒。一天晚上,一名小男孩再 也控制不住好奇心,爬进仙女的洞穴,决定在 近处欣赏这些迷人的仙女。他发现,这些仙女 甚至比传说中描述的还要美丽:她们头上插着 如梦如幻的花朵,身边是无数闪闪发光的水 晶,散发着令人目眩的光芒。“给,小伙 子,”其中一位最美丽的仙女说道,“拿上这 个小袋子回去吧!但是,千万不要告诉任何 人,你是从哪里得到它的。”

58

Jewellery


Jewellery

00


The

Wild Blossom Later, STEPHAN SCHUCK studied in Idar-Oberstein, where he

与这个瑞士童话故事中的小男孩一样,六岁的

cut his first tourmaline. These days, the well-known jeweller and

斯蒂芬·查克第一次踏入山中,也背回来一包

designer visits diamond exchanges and select specialist gem

闪闪发光的石头。他父亲的一位朋友告诉他寻

cutting shops all over the world, seeking out the best the market

找天然水晶的最佳地点,他们一起凿开石面,

has to offer. Although many of the stones that he works with

找寻最好的石英和其它天然宝石。“我们甚至

come from professional mines, the natural mineral deposits in

可以在草地上找到它们,”斯蒂芬·查克至今

the mountains of his homeland continue to fascinate him most

仍记忆犹新地说,“它们在绿草和鲜花之间,

of all. The treasures hidden in the steep rock faces between the

fertile valleys and blossom-filled meadows of the Swiss Alps sometimes even include emeralds. To this day STEPHAN SCHUCK is still drawn to this “enchanted world” of natural wonders. It was

a similar story for the passionate mountain climber when he

60

Jewellery

裸露的土地上闪闪发光 — 因为最高品质的水晶 会反射阳光。那一刻,我知道,我绝不会让这 份美妙消失。”

discovered the Caucasus and the Himalayas for himself: “As a

后来,斯蒂芬·查克在伊达尔-奥伯施泰因

designer, I find the mountains provide a wealth of inspiration,

(Idar-Oberstein)学习,也是在这里平生第一

taking on unique magical shapes and colours all of their own.”

次切割电气石。如今,他已经成为知名的珠宝

Back in his studio, STEPHAN SCHUCK has now designed a

商和设计师,足迹踏遍钻石交易所,满世界造

“magical” jewellery collection of rings, earrings and pendants

访专业宝石切割商店,寻找市场中的精品原材

that echo the beauty of the real wildflowers found in the valleys

料。虽然他加工的很多宝石都来自专业矿区,


Magic

m

of the world’s major mountain regions. “Petals” of 18k white,

但他家乡的天然矿藏仍然最令他着迷。在瑞士

red or yellow gold enfold a transparent “pistil” and diamond-

阿尔卑斯山土壤肥沃的山谷中、在开满鲜花的

encrusted “stamens”. Pastel-hued sapphires nestle between them.

草甸之间、在陡峭岩面之中,蕴藏着数不清的

The collection is called “STEPHAN SCHUCK #01 Wild Blossom”

宝藏,甚至还有绿宝石。即使今天,斯蒂芬·

and comes in a strictly limited edition: only 25 examples of each

查克仍被这个自然而神奇的“仙女世界”所深

model have been produced. The prices for these prestigious

深吸引。作为一名充满激情的登山爱好者,他

creations range between CHF 5,000 and 15,000.

曾在高加索山脉和喜马拉雅山中进行探索,同

Those who know about these things are certain that this unique collection is likely to spread its particular brand of magic throughout the world. However, STEPHAN SCHUCK’s clients

样也是受到了自然的吸引。“作为一名设计 师,我发现大山给予我很多灵感,它们有魔力 般的独特形状和与众不同的色彩。

do not need to worry that they will lose out on the very special

service offered by the Swiss designer: he will continue to

斯蒂芬·查克回到工作室后,以他在世界各大

produce high-end tailor-made pieces to suit individual wishes

山脉中看到的野花为灵感,设计了“魔力”珠

and preferences. This “bespoke jewellery” has already gained

宝系列,包括戒指、耳环、和吊坠。1 8k 白

him a reputation far beyond the borders of Europe. As a certi-

色、红色或黄色的金质花瓣,围绕着一支透明

fied gemmologist and diamond valuer, STEPHAN SCHUCK

的“雌蕊”和钻石镶边的“雄蕊”。柔和色调

also has a highly trained eye and a sure feel for high quality

的蓝宝石亭立于之间。该系列名为“斯蒂芬·

metals and precious stones. The designer has already received

查克#01野花”,是绝对的限量版。每款仅制

a large number of enquiries regarding his first collection, “STEPHAN SCHUCK #01 Wild Blossom”. So, if you’re on the look-out for a particularly enchanting Christmas gift, you shouldn’t delay for too long.

作25个。这些宝贝的价格在5,000到15,000瑞 士法郎之间。

www.schuck-juwelier.ch 行家相信,这一独一无二的系列面世后,将在 全球范围内提升这一魅力品牌的知名度。但客 户们无需担心这位瑞士设计师会应接不暇,无 心顾及客户的需求;他将继续制作高端定制珠 宝,充分满足顾客独特的个人期望和喜好。这 种“定制珠宝”服务已令他名扬欧洲之外。作 为一名宝石学家和钻石鉴定师,斯蒂芬同样对 贵金属和奇珍异石独具慧眼。他首次推出的“ 斯蒂芬·查克#01野花”系列已获得广泛的关 注和咨询。因此,如果您在寻找具有特别魅力 的圣诞礼物,那就不要错过这一系列。

www.schuck-juwelier.ch

Jewellery

61


S


Shopping Winter Wonderland

OUTLETCITY METZINGEN Luxury Shopping World

麦琴根名品村 冬日最佳购物天堂 By Patricia Schweizer Translation Mark S. Kennedy

BOGNER

时光飞驰,转眼又已入冬。白昼变短,温度下 降,人们越来越渴望温暖舒适的感受。但不必

急于蜷缩到壁炉旁,现在还有时间到户外走 走,购物天堂麦根琴名品村正等待您的大驾光 临,琳琅满目的秋冬新款,全部打折销售。

麦根琴名品村位于斯图加特(Stuttgart)以南不

到30公里的地方,众多高级时装品牌店云集于 此。很多品牌的旗舰店建筑设计非常独特,曾 荣获建筑大奖。这里的高档商品全年以建议零

售价的3-7折销售,例如:阿玛尼(Armani)、 百利(Bally)、巴宝利(Burberry)、丘奇 (Church’s)、蔻驰(Coach)、黛安·冯·芙丝

汀宝(Diane von Furstenberg)、爱斯卡达

Time flies by – as the saying goes – and the winter season is

(Escada)、哈克特(Hackett)、雨果波士

soon upon us. The days get shorter, the temperatures drop, and

(Hugo Boss)、周仰杰(Jimmy Choo)、罗洛

the desire for a cosy atmosphere rises. But before the candles are lit and a couple of logs are laid in the fireplace, there’s time to go outdoors again and take a stroll through a shopping wonderland. In the legendary OUTLETCITY METZINGEN you now expect the new collections for Fall / Winter season. Barely 30 kilometres to the south of Stuttgart, exclusive fashion brands, including some flagship outlets that have won architectural prizes, are on-site here with their premium products at prices re-

皮雅纳(Loro Piana)、麦丝玛拉(Max Mara)、 迈克柯尔(Michael Kors)、米索尼(Missoni) 、缪缪(MiuMiu)、蒙克莱(Moncler)、保罗· 拉夫·劳伦(Polo Ralph Lauren)、普拉达(Prada) 、托德(Tod’s)以及温莎(Windsor)。秋季新开 业的店铺有:盖尔斯(GUESS)专卖店和埃麦尼 吉尔多·杰尼亚(Ermenegildo Zegna)精品店。

duced by 30-70% (compared to RRP) all the year round. To

麦根琴的商品琳琅满目,价格诱人,更有形式

name just a few: Armani, Bally, Burberry, Church’s, Coach,

多样的促销活动。打造“天天特价日”。例如

Diane von Furstenberg, Escada, Hackett, Hugo Boss, Jimmy Choo,

秋季的“秋日茧居”(Autumn Cocooning)活

Loro Piana, Max Mara, Michael Kors, Missoni, MiuMiu, Moncler,

动。纵使季节令人沮丧,让时尚成为你的阳

Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada, Tod’s and Windsor. And new from

光。在麦根琴,自有千般宠爱自己的理由。徜

autumn: the exclusive GUESS and Ermenegildo Zegna shops.

徉于秋季新品之中,感受顶尖国际品牌潮流。 Shopping

63


S Christma 2

Outletcity Metzingen, Germany

JIMMY CHOO

Escada I Diesel I Strenesse

柔软精致的羊绒衫不再一枝独秀,密织针织品 和真丝羊毛大围巾也很新潮。搭配经典的花呢

The variety of the collections in OUTLETCITY METZINGEN is just as surprising as the attractive Shopping Specials. In

autumn, for example, the Autumn Cocooning. Stylish cosiness for days when the weather can occasionally already dampen

the spirits. Even more reason to pamper oneself a little in every respect. Be inspired by the trends from the top international

76 64

Shopping

休闲上衣,成为秋日的靓丽风景。

这无以伦比的购物体验并未止步,在冬季和圣

诞特价活动“炫闪冬季”(Winderdays) 中,麦根琴名品村将燃起绚烂而温暖的灯火。 高档奢侈品购物(Luxury

Shopping)区更是灯

brands during an autumn shopping stroll. Alongside seductive

火通明,璀璨迷人。11月27日至1月5日,位

cashmere, closely-woven knits and opulent silk-wool scarves are

于林登广场(Lindenplatz)的圣诞市场

in fashion. Combined with a classical tweed blazer, autumn

(Christmas Market)将以热腾腾的华夫饼、

takes on a much more attractive look.

潘趣酒和童话般的创意吸引顾客。明亮的商


Shopping as DIESEL

HACKETT

It continues with Winterdays, the Winter and Christmas Special,

which lets OUTLETCITY METZINGEN shine in a wonderful warm

blaze of lights. Thousands and thousands strings of lights dazzle the shopping centre for Premium Luxury Shopping. Also from 27

MOP

November to 5 January, the small, but refined Christmas Market

on Lindenplatz tempts with hot waffles, punch and fairytale ideas. Brightly lit shops, snow-covered fir trees and the wintery deco-

rations set the pre-Christmas mood. And that’s far, far apart from

店、积雪覆盖的杉树和冬季装饰品,充分烘托出

what one calls “Pre-Christmas or shopping stress” at other locations.

圣诞气氛。与世界各地突击圣诞抢购的忙乱相 比,麦根琴堪称真正意义上的购物天堂。

Christmas shopping here is just as it should be: pleasant, exclusive and exciting. More than 60 Premium and Luxury brands

在这里,圣诞购物回归了它应有的本貌:愉快、

are represented in OUTLETCITY with really exceptional Christmas

专享而充满期待。麦根琴不仅有60多个顶级和奢

Specials and an attentive Gift Wrap Service. So take a stroll

侈品牌,更提供实在的圣诞特价和贴心的礼品包

through the chic stores and be inspired. A stylish handbag from

装服务,让人怎能不想漫步其中,尽情感受时尚。

Prada? An elegant necklace from Swarowski? Or a classical

briefcase from Bally? There are plenty of ideas to become immersed in luxury and lifestyle.

And also after the festivities, OUTLETCITY METZINGEN has a

surprise in store: with extra-long Shopping pleasure between

Christmas and New Year. Because you can enjoy the extra-long opening hours from 9.00 to 21.00 hrs. on 27, 29 and 30 December.

普拉达时尚手袋?施华洛世奇(Swarowski)高雅

项链?或经典巴利(Bally)公文包?麦根琴帮您实 现所有的奢华时尚梦想。

即便在圣诞节过后,麦根琴名品村还将在圣诞和 新年之间以超长的营业时间满足您的购物需 求:12月27、29和30日,上午9.00至21.00点。

若您想要获得真正的奢侈购物体验,品牌荟萃的

OUTLETCITY is and remains – and especially in the pre-Christmas

麦根琴名品村始终都是您的最佳选择(尤其在圣

period – the place for a real Luxury Shopping Experience with

诞前夕)。穿上新购置的服装,迎接寒冷冬季的

a huge selection. With a nice new outfit, one already looks

到来。至于那漫长的冬夜 — 自然是与家人围坐壁

forward to the shorter days and lower temperatures. And to the

炉前,享受温暖惬意好时光。

long evenings – best of all in front of a crackling fireplace.

更多信息请见

www.outletcity.com

www.outletcity.com

Shopping

65


News & Previews

66

Baselworld 2015 – Where only the best unite for the most unique showcase on earth.

eight days, Baselworld’s stylish and imposing halls exude an aura of true

Baselworld 2015 is just around the corner and all the brilliance that

The newsworthiness of Baselworld is no better established than by the

makes this superlative event shine is about to go live. From March 19 to

fact that 4000 members of the press from 70 countries descend on Basel

26, 2015, every key player representing every sector of the industry

every year to cover the show and disseminate news of the trendsetting

that matters is on hand in the centre of Europe, at the very heart of the

creations and innovations to every corner of the world. Baselworld is one

watch and jewellery industry where trends, in fact, the whole tone of the

of the best-covered industrial shows where the world’s financial press,

industry is set. What makes Baselworld so unique are the 1500 of the

major national dailies, lifestyle publications, all the trade press, the world’s

biggest and best known brands that unite under one roof and attract

biggest TV channels, and key players in social media create an unrivalled

around 150’000 people from every continent to experience the spec-

global impact and underline the show’s position as the most important

tacularly designed multi-storey pavilions on 141,000 m2, where for a full

event for the watch and jewellery industry. www.baselworld.com

luxury making it a genuine lifestyle convention. Nowhere else on this planet can one witness pure passion, precision and perfection first hand. History is made every year at Baselworld, and you can be a part of it. Start planning your visit to Baselworld 2015!


Zurich experiences a new kind of exclusivity. Shamballa Jewels, a name that is synonymous throughout the world with exclusive jewellery, continues to build its presence in Europe. A new high-profile boutique is being created in Zurich in collaboration with La Serlas, one of the most distinguished jewellers in Switzerland. The shop will be located in Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. Here, discerning customers will be able to immerse themselves in the perfectly appointed world of Shamballa Jewels. An eye for perfect craftsmanship meets with an unmistakable style that combines the spirituality of the Far East with the crisp linearity of Danish design. Shamballa Jewels opens its premises in Zurich on November 27th 2014, when this address will become one of the most exclusive in the whole of Switzerland:

Martin Husi

Shamballa Jewels Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8001 Zurich (Lichthof / Entrance Bärengasse). www.la-serlas.ch www.shamballajewels.com

A new gem for St. Moritz. Zurich‘s renowned jeweller La Serlas is starting a new chapter in its success story at a prime address in the heart of St. Moritz. The launch of Serlas Unique Jewellery in Via Maistra 11 at the beginning of December will mark the creation of a real “gem”. Carried out by Martin Husi, this is a personal dream come true. He has gained an excellent reputation in the precious stones, jewellery and timepiece business over the last two decades and is now ready to work his magic with Serlas Unique Jewellery.

苏黎世体验新奢华

As in Zurich, the shop will present a wide range of precious

香巴拉珠宝(Shamballa Jewels)是全世界奢华珠宝的代

www.la-serlas.ch

表,现已登陆欧洲。该品牌与瑞士著名珠宝公司拉 辛拉珠宝公司(La Serlas)合作,即将在苏黎世成立一 家高端精品店,新店位于苏黎世的火车站大街。香 巴拉珠宝之美,源自那尽善尽美的制作工艺,以及 设计中巧妙融合了独特的远东风情和清新简约的丹 麦气质。新店开业后,必将吸引众多品味独具的珠 宝爱好者,来此欣赏香巴拉珠宝之美。香巴拉珠宝 苏黎世店将于2014年11月27日开业,并将成为 全瑞士最奢华的珠宝店之一。 香巴拉珠宝精品店位于苏黎世火车站大街25号

one-off designs dating from around 1900 to the present.

圣莫里茨(St. Moritz)的新宝石 知名的苏黎世(Zurich)拉辛拉珠宝公司(La Serlas)即将 在圣莫里茨中心区顶级地段续写其成功故事。12月 初即将在维尔麦斯特拉大街11号( Via Maistra 11)开业 的塞拉斯特色珠宝店( Serlas Unique Jewellery. ),将标志 着一颗“珍宝”的诞生。这是马丁·胡斯(Martin Husi) 钟爱的事业,对他来说就是个人梦想成真。二十年 来,他已在宝石、珠宝和钟表领域广受赞誉,现正

Shamballa Jewels Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8001 Zurich

准备与拉辛拉合作共续传奇。该珠宝店将在苏黎世

(Lichthof / Entrance Bärengasse). www.la-serlas.ch

展出,自1900年以来各种各样珍贵且绝无仅有的设

www.shamballajewels.com

计。胡斯极为注重与客户之间的开放沟通和建立相 互信任。

119 67


Gassan opens first Rolex Boutique in Amsterdam. Since the end October 2014, in the city centre of Amsterdam, the first Rolex Boutique was officially opened by Richard Krajicek, Daphne Deckers and David Bijlsma, COO of Gassan. The historical diamondcutting factory was the scene of this spectacular opening ceremony. The Rolex Boutique is situated on the ground floor of Gassan Diamonds. As market leader in the Netherlands in the area of Haute Joaillerie and Haute Horlogerie, Gassan has built up a solid relationship with Rolex over the years since 1970. The opening of the new Rolex Boutique will contribute to the public’s knowledge and appreciation of the highly-regarded Swiss watch brand here in the capital of the Netherlands. The World of Rolex, Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175, 1011 LN Amsterdam.

Alexander McQueen opens futuristic boutique in Monaco. Alexander McQueen opens a dedicated brand space in the heart of the Principality of Monaco. Featuring the new retail concept conceived by Sarah Burton, Creative Director of Alexander McQueen, and designed by architecture and interiors design agency, David Collins Studio, this 650 sq meters space is spread over two floors. The boutique is located at Jardin des Boulingrins next to the Place du Casino. www.alexandermcqueen.com

Wellendorff opens first store in Tokyo. After launching twelve boutiques worldwide, the Wellendorff jewellery manufactory, the family firm from the “Gold City” of Pforzheim in Germany, opened its first boutique in Tokyo at the exclusive address of The Ritz-Carlton hotel. A central feature of the grand opening is a piece of jewellery dedicated to the Japanese capital: The Tokyo Ring, which is available exclusively from the Japanese boutique. Made of 18-karat yellow gold and signed with the Diamond W, this ring features pink Wellendorff enamel and is decorated with engraved cherry blossoms. www.wellendorff.com


OneOcean launches first super yacht marina in Barcelona.

and are capable of berthing and servicing vessels from five to 120 metres. The OneOcean brand will extend its offering into the luxury lifestyle sector with the development of the OneOcean Club concept.

OneOcean is a new, expertly curated collection of six star services,

bers clubs, hotels and residencies in iconic locations around the world

destinations and superyacht marinas in some of the world’s most iconic

that will resonate with nautical enthusiasts. OneOcean aims to improve

locations. OneOcean launches its inaugural destination in November

the experience for the super yacht owner throughout the ownership life-

2014, Marina Port Vell, Barcelona, Spain. Designed to challenge the

cycle through transparency, professionalism, dedication to service, quality

status of classic destinations of Monaco and Montenegro, OneOcean

and excellent governance. The OneOcean Client Advisory team, based

will create a superyacht marina in one of Europe’s most vibrant cities in

in Monaco will, through OneOcean Yachting Services Limited advise

time for the summer 2015 season. A further development is planned in

clients on a wide range of topics that will include areas such as procure-

West Palm Beach, Florida.

ment, management and identifying finance, disposals and insurance

Bringing together one of Europe’s hottest up and coming chefs with a

introductions. The team will be led by industry veteran Luc Khaldoun.

host of unrivalled lifestyle amenities, the marina’s OneOcean Club

OneOcean is a partnership between the Salamanca Group, the UK

launching in January 2015 will offer superyacht owners and guests of

Based Merchant Banking and Operational Risk business owners of

smaller chartered yachts a world-class home away from home in one of

Marina Port Vell in Barcelona and the Huizenga family, one of the most

the finest oceanfront locations. OneOcean will provide a wide range

well-known entrepreneurial families in the United States and owners of

of services from the two key hubs in Barcelona and Florida. The two

the Rybovich Superyacht Marina in West Palm Beach, Florida.

facilities are amongst the most important yachting hubs in the world

www.oneoceanventures.com

St. Moritz Gourmet Festival 2015 ‘British Edition’ 26th to 30th January. The ‘British Edition’ of the 2015 St. Moritz Gourmet Festival will be an exceptional, multi-faceted and pleasurable week in the Upper Engadine at the end of January. Gourmets await a comprehensive event programme featuring nine star chefs from Great Britain. All nine master chefs together will ensure that Monday evening is a ‘very British’ opening event at the Grand Opening at the Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains, St. Moritz. High-class champagne, wine and spirits will be served at the same time. The subsequent party with live music will be a lively start to the festival week. Advance booking of admission tickets for the events starts on 1st December 2014. www.stmoritz-gourmetfestival.ch

swiss-image.ch I Photo Andy Mettler

Over time OneOcean expects to establish a number of private mem-


The World’s first Lifestyle Clinic exclusively for Gentlemen. Overlooking the Lake of Zurich, The Gentlemen’s Clinic is setting new standards in terms of aesthetic medicine, lifestyle as well as customer service. The Gentlemen’s Clinic caters to the health and aesthetic needs of sophisticated, cosmopolitan men over 30 who have high expectations of themselves and life. The main focus lies on minimal-invasive surgeries and aesthetic treatments. The most popular treatments include liposuction, gynecomastia (male chest surgery), eyelid correction, hair transplantation, permanent hair removal as well as botulinum toxin/fillers. At “The G Spa”, guests can completely unwind and recharge their batteries: several relaxing massages (such as the “Casino Royale” massage including a martini – shaken, not stirred), facial treatments, manicures/pedicures as well as packages are on offer for the busy gentleman. The customer service (“The G Experience”) at the Gentlemen’s Clinic is unique: 5* hotel service is combined with the medical offers of a clinic. Dipl. Hotelier Hanspeter Vochezer, the former butler of Gunter Sachs, has trained the entire staff at The Gentlemen’s Clinic. www.gentlemensclinic.com

Spa treatment in the hay bed

Lounge

Löwen Suite

Luxury and enjoyment at the Löwen Hotel Montafon. The Löwen Hotel is tucked into one of the most beautiful and richly varied regions of Austria - the Montafon. In the midst of the Montafon Alpine valley, this Four-star Superior Hotel offers leisure-time activities in the natural surroundings, beneficial wellness rejuvenation and a whole variety of real pleasures all the year round. The newly-designed interior furnishings in “Alpine chic” style convey an aura of cosiness and combine sustainable materials such as waste wood with the traditional and contemporary as well as nature and luxury. Local dishes prepared from regional products are served in the à la carte Montafon Stube restaurant. International menus with a Mediterranean flair can be enjoyed in the Barga restaurant. Half-board is included in the room price whereby a 5 or 6-course menu is offered and underscored with culinary events. The Hochjochbahn valley station is only a two-minute walk away from the hotel, from where the guests can go up to the Silvretta Montafon skiing area which has about 140 kilometres of ski slopes. For relaxation at the end of the day, there’s a spacious 3,000 m² spa and wellness area with sauna facilities, steam baths and personal spa treatments. www.loewen-hotel.com


Photos by Xavier Boudon I Pixizone.com

Horse Power and elegance and stunning mountain backdrop – Hublot Polo Gold Cup Gstaad. Crowds of fun loving spectators from around the world have descended upon the picturesque village of Gstaad for a weekend of world-class polo and entertainment at the 19th edition of the Hublot Polo Gold Cup Gstaad Tournament. The glorious sun began to shine just in time for the conclusion of the Hublot Polo Gold Cup Gstaad Tournament. Team E.I. Sturdza Investment Funds played spectacular polo to steal the title away from last year’s winners Team Gstaad Palace in a stunning final, winning by 5 goals to 3. The Hublot Polo Gold Cup Gstaad Tournament has fulfilled its reputation of being one of the best high-goal tournaments in Europe. The tournament has seen three days of magnificent polo competition in the picturesque setting of Gstaad. This year crowds were bigger than ever, creating a buzzing atmosphere throughout the Tournament. It is therefore no surprise that the Teams, Spectators and Tournament Organisers alike are eagerly awaiting the 20th edition in August 2015 – more information on the Hublot Polo Gold Cup can be found at www.pologstaad.ch

Andrea Scherz CEO Gstaad Palace


传奇腕表的秘密 THE SECRETS OF THE

Timepieces MOST LEGENDARY

By Uwe Herzog Translation Louise Mawbey

72

History


History

73


Seamaster, Nautilus, Grand Complication … these watches cause men to go weak at the knees and women’s hearts to soften. Enthusiasts around the world spend billions on luxury watches each year. Luxury Life wanted to find out what makes the illustrious brands so bewitching.

海马(Seamaster)、诺德士 (Nautilus)、超复杂腕表 (Grand Complication)…这 些精致的腕表令男人无法抗 拒,令女人目不转睛。每年全 球腕表爱好者在高档表上的花 费多达数十亿美元。《奢华生 活》杂志(Luxury)将带您一探

74

History

这些著名品牌的魅力之因。


Jeanrichard

布雷塞尔( Bressel )是一个坐落在纳沙泰尔湖(

Lake Neuchâtel)畔山坡上的小山村。丹尼尔· 尚·维沙(Daniel Jeanrichard)就出生在瑞士侏罗 山脉的湿地云杉林中。当时没有人会想到,这 位农夫的儿子有一天会成为制表业奠基者。在 如今各大腕表品牌中,谁才是历史最悠久的一 家?业内对此看法不一:尚维沙(Jeanrichard)、 宝铂( Blancpain )、菲力浦·杜波伊斯&菲尔斯 (Philippe DuBois & Fils)还是江斯丹顿·瓦什隆 (Vacheron Constantin)?毕竟,早在中世纪时期, 在日内瓦大学城里的发明家们就开始致力于打 造更精巧、更美观的钟表。但有一点是肯定 的,尚·维沙事业的起点,源自他为一位马商 修理他的伦敦怀表。 Daniel Jeanrichard (1665-1741), a legendary figure in Swiss watchmaking

Richard当时未多思考就直接将怀表拆开,拿 出所有部件,对每个小齿轮进行检查,然后重 新组装好。在此过程中,他还对这个不够准确

Bressel, a tiny mountain village above Lake Neuchâtel. Here, in the marshy spruce forests of the Swiss Jura mountains, Daniel Jeanrichard was born. No one imagined that the farmer’s son would one day lay the foundations of the watchmaking industry. Nevertheless, opinions are divided on which of today’s brands actually constitutes the oldest watchmaking company: Jeanrichard, Blancpain, Philippe DuBois & Fils or Vacheron Constantin? After all, inventors in the medieval uni-versity city of Geneva

的英国怀表进行了改进,让它拥有了瑞士手表 的精准性,这种特性后来也让瑞士钟表在全世 界名声大噪。此后不久,钟表业在力洛克市(Le Locle)(尚·维沙出生地附近)迅猛发展,钟 表匠人数达到了2000多名,其中就包括后来推 出自己品牌的尚·维沙。“1681”系列腕表是 对这位钟表大师处女作腕表的纪念;在当时售 价20泰勒,吸引了很多富有的宗教人士。尚·

were also working intensively on time-pieces that were much

维沙品牌喜欢选择现代先驱人物和英雄作为品

smaller and more elegant than anything that had previously been

牌大使,比如美国空军飞行员切斯利•B.•萨

used to keep the time. But one thing is for sure, the young Jean-

伦伯格(Chesley B. Sullenberger),他曾在

richard triggered subsequent events when he repaired a

2009年1月将引擎受损的飞机成功地迫降在纽

pocket watch from London which belonged to a horse dealer.

约哈德逊河上,挽救了150名乘客的生命。另 History

75


Jean Adrien Philippe Keyless winding

Antoine Norbert de Patek


外一名代表人物是艺术家尼克·瓦伦达(Nik Wallenda),他在没有安全网保护的情况下, 通过一条拉紧的绳索跨越尼亚加拉瀑布。 与此相反的是Vacheron Constantin。“我们 明确决定不使用品牌大使,”日内瓦Vacheron Constantin的奥德·皮塔德·坎帕内利(Aude Pittard Campanelli)说道,“我们公司也从不 会以客户为讨论主题。”这个徽标上拥有马耳 他十字图案的顶级品牌,是瑞士制表业260年 历史的写照,具有我行我素、无人能及的风 格。“遗产”(Patrimony)是这个顶级制表商最 知名的作品之一,拥有超精密的规格和表盘, 其当代版本81180亦为优雅的典范之作。 埃及国王法鲁克(Farouk)非常信赖Vacheron Constantin的精致工艺。早在1935年,这位 国王就曾委托该品牌制造一款非常复杂的怀 表。如今,能与这只王室腕表相提并论的精品, 当属百达翡丽(Patek Philippe)生产的亨利·格

Jean Adrien Philippe

雷福斯超复杂功能怀表(Henry Graves Super-

Without further ado, Richard dismantled the watch’s movement down to its individual parts, inspected each little cog and then put it all back together again. In doing so, he added a touch of Swiss precision, which has since become legendary throughout the world, to the rather inadequate British mechanism. Soon afterwards, the new industry employed more than 2,000 watchmakers in Le Locle, a city close to the birthplace of Jeanrichard. The “1681” collection still commemorates the first “Jeanrichard” which, in its day, cost 20 thalers and was particularly popular amongst wealthy church dignitaries. Today, the name “Jeanrichard” is associated with some of the greatest pioneers and heroes of our time. One of the ambassadors of the brand is the US Airways pilot Chesley B. Sullenberger who, in January 2009, managed to emergency land his plane safely on New York’s Hudson River after it experienced engine damage, thereby saving the lives of 150 passengers. And another is the artist Nik Wallenda, who dared to cross the Niagara Falls on a tightrope without a safety net. Vacheron Constantin takes a completely different approach. “We have made a conscious decision not to use brand ambassadors,” explains Aude Pittard Campanelli from Vacheron Constantin in Geneva, “and we also never discuss our History

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

77


Patek Philippe Anciens Atelier 1950

Greenwich Observatory I Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Mitad Del Mundo (Middle of the World) monument in Ecuador. The GPS coordinates are 0,0,0 here on the equator.

complication)。这只杰出的怀表于三年前为一 位纽约银行家打造的,更开启了制表工艺的新 篇章。它在价值和复杂度方面达到了前无古人 的高度。它的特殊功能中,甚至可以显示太阳 在曼哈顿城市峡谷上方的位置。这只复杂的腕 表最近在日内瓦索斯比拍卖公司(Sotheby’s) 拍卖,估价达到惊人的1680万美元。 到20世纪80年代末,Patek Philippe品牌的钟 表师再次自我超越,推出“Calibre 89”。这 只表拥有33项特殊功能,至今仍是世界上最复 杂的腕表。Patek Philippe是一个拥有175年 制表历史的品牌。卡拉特拉瓦(“Calatrava”) 是该公司的标志性腕表之一,生产于1932年。 其设计秉承严谨的鲍豪斯设计风格,朴素而实 用的同时,又不失优雅的特质,对后来者产生 了深远影响。 20世纪70年代,品牌所有者的外孙菲利普·斯 特恩(Philippe Stern)加入企业,为其引入运动 元素。菲利普是一位充满激情的赛艇爱好者, The “Henry Graves Supercomplication” by Patek Philippe

78

First commissioned in 1925. Sold to Henry Graves in 1933.

History

他的诺德士3700/1A(“Nautilus 3700/1A”) 系列腕表,迄今仍是制表界最具运动之美的标


志作品。现在,菲利普的儿子蒂埃里(Thierry) 成为该家族第四代掌门人。他的妻子桑德里娜 (Sandrine)担纲腕表设计。客户名单中名流云 集,比如王室成员、政客、宗教权贵以及商业和 文化界名人。该品牌所生产的腕表始终都是富有 传奇色彩的名品,不断在日内瓦、伦敦、巴黎和 纽约的重大拍卖会中传出令人咋舌的骄人成绩。 还有很多优秀的腕表品牌,它们以分秒记录时 间,却以百万计价。例如,宇舶(Hublot)生产 的“大爆炸”(Big Bang)腕表,镶嵌1,282颗 钻石,价值500万美元。伦敦的格拉夫钻石公 司(GRAFF DIAMONDS)曾推出一系列顶级腕 表,恍若王冠上的珠宝一般璀璨,迄今已有五 个复杂系列正式面世,由该珠宝公司的英国总 部设计,在日内瓦手工精制而成。这个相对年 轻的的奢华品牌正在全世界积累强大人气。这 些系列中比较有代表性的作品包括:十二边形 的“格拉夫之星大日期”系列(“GraffStar Grand Date”)、运动型的“潜水格拉夫” Hublot Big Bang, 5 Million

(“ScubaGraff”)、星形的“苗条格拉夫之 星”(“GraffStar Slim”)、精致的“格拉夫大

customers.” With its complete discretion and incomparable style, the premium brand with the famous Maltese cross in its logo represents 260 years of Swiss watchmaking history. And it is certainly not just by chance that the most successful collection from the premium watchmakers on Geneva’s Rhone island was named “Patrimony” – with its extremely thin calibre and a discreet dial, the current contemporary version, ref. 81180, is the epitome of elegance. Egypt’s King Farouk put his trust in the exquisite craftsmanship from the house of Vacheron Constantin on the Rhone island. As early as 1935, the monarch commissioned a particularly complicated pocket watch. At this time, the watch rivalled another masterpiece – the “Henry Graves Supercomplication” by Patek Philippe. This exceptional chronograph, which had been developed three years earlier for a New York banker, broke totally new ground with respect to the art of watchmaking. Never before had a watch been created that was as valuable and complex as this one. Its special functions even included a display of the position of the sun above the urban canyons of Manhattan. The complex timepiece was recently offered for auction at Sotheby’s in Geneva with an estimated value of a phenomenal US$ 16.8 million. History Graff Diamond MasterGraff Ultra-Flat Tourbillon 43 mm

79


At the end of the 1980s, the developers at Patek Philippe surpassed themselves once again when they designed the “Calibre 89”. Its 33 special functions mean that it is still considered the most complicated watch in the world today. Patek Philippe is another watchmaker with a long tradition – boasting 175 years of watchmaking craftsmanship. One of the company’s highlights is the “Calatrava”, produced in 1932. The design of the “Calatrava”, which strictly adhered to Bauhaus principles, influenced many subsequent generations of unostentatious and functional, but at the same time highly-elegant, wristwatches. In the 1970s, one of the grandsons of the owners joined the company and introduced a sporty element. Philippe Stern, a passionate regatta yachtsman, launched the “Nautilus 3700/1A” – which today is still the benchmark for sporty elegance in the world of watchmaking. Now, Philippe’s son Thierry is the fourth generation of the family to run the company. His wife

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication

Sandrine is responsible for watch creation. As has always been the case, the order books contain the names of crowned rulers, celebrated statesmen, church dignitaries and numerous

师超平陶比伦”(“MasterGraff Ultra Flat Tour-

celebrities from the fields of business and culture. And, as

billon”)及其高级版“格拉夫大师大日期双时

has always been the case, the legendary timepieces from

间陶比伦”(“MasterGraff Grand Date Dual

Patek Philippe continue to fetch staggeringly high prices at

Time Tourbillon”)。基础款型提供多种版本 —

major auctions in Geneva, London, Paris and New York.

其中很多都镶嵌了数百颗高档钻石、璀璨夺目。

There are also other watches with which the time is measured

还有一款腕表的贵重程度会让所有保安人员提

in seconds but their price is calculated in millions. For example,

心吊胆:由A. 朗格&桑奈(A. Lange & Söhne)

the unique “Big Bang” from Hublot, studded with 1,282 diamonds, is worth US$ 5 million. And a whole range of “crown jewels” of the world of watch design are produced

生产的超复杂腕表(Grand Complication)。截 至目前,每年仅生产六只,共有876个部件。 每只价格约2百万欧元。这个家族企业起源于德 国萨克森(Saxony) ,在二战期间曾经被严重摧 毁,没有人相信,在多年后的今天,他们又能 以傲人的身姿重现世界舞台。1990年柏林墙推 倒后,该家族的一个曾孙重新收购了该公司, 设计了约50款全新奢华腕表 — 其中很多都被 视为上佳投资品。 如果苏联军队在1945年进入德国时,也能像盟 军美国人那样佩戴工艺精湛的腕表,估计就会 手下留情。在诺曼底登陆的战役中,很多美国 兵都戴着芝柏(Girard-Perregaux)生产的海鹰 表(“Sea Hawk”),从这个角度而言,瑞士也为 二战的解放做出了贡献。十年前,Girard-Perregaux推出令人惊喜的“Pro”,具有3000米深 的强大防水功能,让“Sea Hawk”再次名声大 噪。不过,防水最高记录的保持者,是军用腕

A. Lange & Söhne


表供应商蒙特斯·查麦斯(Montres Charmex) 。这个品牌位于巴塞尔(Basel) 附近的利斯塔尔 市(Liestal),其生产的一只腕表可实现惊人的 20,000英尺防水。我们还要向您介绍全世界唯 一可以水下报时的腕表 — 凡尔根(Vulcain)生 产的诺蒂克尔(“Nautical”)。该品牌来自瑞士 侏罗山脉,曾有四位美国总统佩戴着该品牌的 凡尔根克里克特(“Vulcain Cricket”)进行就 职宣誓,这款表也是最复杂的“闹钟”腕表。 最初腕表主要是一种女士物品。由卡尔•F.• 宝齐莱公司(Carl F. Bucherer)生产的第一批腕 表系列,曾受到当时女性的广泛喜爱。如今, 该品牌再次推出其在20世纪20年代销售的艺术 装饰风格款式,如此精妙迷人,再现这个瑞士 C. Girard (1825-1903) & M. Perregaux (1831-1912)

家族品牌作为“德国王室御用制表商”的辉煌 岁月。后来,该品牌来到了南美,将瑞士制表 工艺传播到这片大陆。

by GRAFF DIAMONDS in London – with five sophisticated collections to date, all developed at the British headquarters

当然了,詹姆斯邦德“御用手表”、传奇的欧米

of the jewellers but made painstakingly by hand in Geneva,

茄海马系列(Omega Seamaster)同样来自瑞

the relatively new luxury brand is creating a stir throughout the

士。Omega凭借其Seamaster系列而被誉为

world. The highlights are the dodecagonal “GraffStar Grand

卓越潜水表之父,自1947年以来,该品牌一直

Date”, the sporty “ScubaGraff”, the star-shaped “GraffStar

在对该系列进行持久改进。超霸专业版

Slim”, the refined “MasterGraff Ultra Flat Tourbillon” and its advanced relative, the “MasterGraff Grand Date Dual Time Tourbillon”. The basic models are available in a variety of versions – some of which sparkle as the light is reflected in hundreds of selected diamonds.

(“Speedmaster Professional”)是其另外一 个代表作,符合在外太空使用的苛刻要求,将 Omega的足迹延续到了月球。 如Omega一样,这些著名腕表品牌永远都以超 越自我为目标,不仅体现在设计和高质量材料

And yet another creation brings hotel security personnel out in a sweat: the “Grand Complication” from A. Lange & Söhne. Up until now only six examples have been made in a year-

上,同时也体现在技术的复杂度上。在腕表的 发展历史上,还有很多品牌也在制表技术和设 计领域树立了里程碑 — 比如萧邦(Chopard)、 奥德马斯皮格特(Audemas Piguet)、杜波伊斯 (DuBois)、帕尔米贾尼(Parmigiani)、雅典

Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon pocket watch with three Gold Bridges (1889)

(Ulysee Nardin)、昆仑 (Corum)、卡迪亚 (Cartier)、豪雅(TAG Heuer)、百年灵(Breitling) 、宝铂(Blancpain)、天梭(Tissot)、万国(IWC) 、HYT、斯沃奇(Swatch)、名仕(Baume & Mercier)、积家(Jaeger-LeCoultre)、柯籁天音 (Christophe Claret)、达温迪斯(Da Vendice) 、德贝蒂讷(De Bethune)、德克里斯可诺(De Grisogono)、蒙特雷斯德惠特(Montres DeWitt)、豪特伦斯(Hautlence)、豪爵(Roger Dubuis)、世纪(Century)、伯爵(Piaget) 等等。

History

81


Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon

如今,在制表业诞生约500年后,瑞士仍然是 无可争议的行业领袖,年营业额高达200多亿 BUCHERER First Shop in Lucerne, Switzerland

欧元。但其他国家也对该行业的创新作出了重 大贡献。法国人路易·莫奈特(Louis

Moinet)

就是其中一个里程碑的缔造者,他在1816年设 计的腕表,不仅如其他腕表一样显示小时,还

long, intricate process involving assembling the 876 individual parts. Each one costs approximately 2 million Euros. No one would have believed that the family company from Saxony,

增添了分钟和秒的显示,这在当时是一次巨大 的创新。Moinet腕表的精确度也很高,误差只 有六十分之一秒,这样的成就即使是在今天也

which is steeped in tradition, would one day reappear on the

并不多见。Louis Moinet已宣布明年春天将发

market in such an impressive way after being expropriated

布一项伟大的新创新,其设计和功能目前仍处

by Soviet troops. Since one of the family’s great grandsons

于保密状态。但有一点可以肯定,这家历史悠

reacquired the business in 1990 after the fall of the Berlin Wall,

久的腕表品牌仍在继续创造历史。

approximately 50 new and exclusive models have been created – and many of which are viewed as sound investments. Maybe the Soviets would have been more lenient if, when the allies entered Germany in 1945, they had worn such excellently crafted watches as their comrades from the US Navy. When they landed in Normandy – just at the right time – many of them were wearing a “Sea Hawk” from Girard-Perregaux on their wrists (in this way Switzerland also played its part in liberating Europe from the German Nazis). Ten years ago, the “Sea Hawk” once again made a name for itself when GirardPerregaux unexpectedly introduced a “Pro” version which was waterproof to a depth of 3,000 meters. However, the best figures were achieved by the military supplier Montres Charmex from Liestal near Basel – with a watch that was waterproof down to a sensational 20,000 feet. And finally, the only watch 82

History

OMEGA Seamaster 300 Omega Master Co-Axial 41 mm


that also chimes underwater – the legendary “Nautical” by Vulcain – comes from the Swiss Jura mountains. No fewer than four US presidents swore by the “Vulcain Cricket”, probably the most sophisticated “alarm clock” for the wrist. Originally, wristwatches were actually primarily intended for women. The first collections from the traditional company Carl F. Bucherer were particularly well-received by the ladies. And the Art Deco style designs from the 1920s are still available today as exquisite relaunches – they are reminiscent of

The first chronograph ever. Louis Moinet chronograph (1816)

the days when the Swiss Bucherer family were “purveyors to the

Louis Moinet (1768 - 1853), was the inventor of the chronograph.

imperial court” in Berlin. Later, the Bucherers took fabled Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship all the way to South America. And of course the legendary “Omega Seamaster”, which has been James Bond’s “service watch” for many years, also comes from Switzerland. Omega is considered to be the inventor of the diving watch par excellence and it has improved its “Seamaster” continually since 1947. With the “Speedmaster Professional”, which also complies with extremely stringent requirements for use in outer space, Omega has even landed on the moon. Just like Omega, the major watch manufacturers permanently aim to surpass themselves, not only with design and high-quality materials but also in terms of technical sophistication. Many other brands therefore also boast milestones in watch-making technology and stunning designs – above all Chopard, Audemars Piguet, DuBois, Parmigiani, Ulysee Nardin, Corum, Cartier, TAG Heuer, Breitling, Blancpain, Tissot, IWC, HYT, Swatch, Baume & Mercier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Christophe Claret, Da Vindice, De Bethune, DeGrisogono, Montres DeWitt, Hautlence, Roger Dubuis, Century, Piaget, Officine Panerai and many more. Today, approximately 500 years after the birth of the watchmaking industry, Switzerland is still the undisputed pioneer in this sector with an annual turnover of more than 20 billion Euros – even though other countries have contributed to some of its innovations during its long history. One important milestone was the invention of the chronograph by the Frenchman Louis Moinet in 1816. For the first time, watches not only showed the hours but also minutes and seconds. Moinet’s “time recorder” even measured the time extremely accurately to a sixtieth of a second – a feature that not many watches can boast today. The traditional brand Louis Moinet has announced a remarkable new development for the coming spring. The design and functions are still a secret. But one thing is for sure – the major watch brands will continue to write history.

Louis Moinet Astrolabe Tourbillon


私人雪茄银行

Private

for Cigars

Bank By Michael S. Hamilos Translation Mark S. Kennedy

An elegant classic car, a high-class vintage wristwatch, a great wine that has been maturing for many years ... some things just need a little time to become truly special. The same goes for well-stored cigars, particularly from the pre-Castro era.

高雅老爷车、顶级古董腕表、

Cigars should always be stored at around 70% humidity and

雪茄应该存放在大约70%湿度、20摄氏度的环

approximately 20 degrees Celsius. Otherwise they will dry out

境之中,否则就会变得过于干燥,失去优质烟

and lose their fine tobacco flavours. One way to ensure perfect

草风味。确保完美湿度的方法之一,就是用台

humidity is to use a table humidor to regulate the moisture in the

式保湿器调节储存室的空气湿度。最好去掉雪

atmosphere. It is best to allow cigars to mature in their own box

茄的玻璃纸包装,将其放在雪茄盒中进行熟

without cellophane wrapping. The ideal solution for this can be

化。雪茄专用的搁架柜是实现这个目标的理想

found in the so-called cabinet boxes, which concentrate the

配备,可以集中熟化过程,提高风味转化。

maturing process and enhance the transfer of flavours. However, top class or limited edition cigars that have to be stored for years so that they can age need something more. This is the only way that high-end tobaccos that can seem too strong to begin with can develop over time to become genuine taste experiences. Cigars with strong tobaccos that take years to break down their overpowering flavour, gradually developing 84

a pleasant smoothness, are a perfect case in point. Cigars

陈年佳酿…有些物品的价值, 源自于它所凝聚的时间。精心 储存的雪茄也属于这类商品,尤 其来自前卡斯特罗时期的雪茄。

然而,需要更长保存时间的顶级或限量版雪茄, 还需要“特殊照顾”。这些高档烟草在刚刚制 作完成时,会呈现出过于强烈的气味,只有经 过长期恰当而精心的保存,才会逐渐熟化出独 一无二的味道。因此,“保存”就成了这些烟草 去除“戾气”,呈现完美醇厚气质的重要环节。


“Private Bank of Cigars” founded by Vahé Gérard

It is precisely these so-called vintage cigars that interest Vahé

陈年雪茄的这一特质,也是日内瓦雪茄存储专

Gérard from Geneva, an expert in the area of professional cigar

家瓦赫•杰拉德(Vahé Gérard)的事业基础。

storage. He learned the trade in Cuban puros from his father at

自少年时代起,他就跟随父亲学做古巴雪茄生

a tender age. These days he runs a fine emporium in the prestigious

意。他的店铺就位于日内瓦凯宾斯基酒店

surroundings of Geneva’s Hotel Kempinski, dedicating all his

(Hotel Kempinski)附近的一个高档购物中心

passion to the long-term storage of cigars.

内,主要从事长期雪茄保存业务,这也是他的

Around 2000, he founded his “Private Bank of Cigars”, following the private bank approach in seeking to add value to his customers’ “investments”. His store room in in the centre of

全部热情之所在。

大约在2000年,他成立了一家“私人雪茄银

Geneva is as secure as any safe. Originally he only wanted to

行”,采用金融业“私人银行”的服务理念,

store his own cigars for the long term, however, his customers

致力于帮助客户实现“投资”增值。他在日内

were so taken with the idea that Gérard soon found himself

瓦中心区的存储室与银行保险柜一样固若���

renting out 750 safes. “Renting” is probably not the right word,

汤。最初,他只是希望找个地方保存自己的雪

as Gérard offers his customers this service free of charge.

茄。但他的客户们非常喜欢这个想法,以致于

However, it is also up to him to decide which of his customers

杰拉德很快就租出去750个保险柜。说“出 Cigars

85


Vahé Gérard

is to be permitted to have a shrine in this perfectly humidified

租”可能不够准确,因为杰拉德的保险柜是完

and cooled room. If you are lucky enough to be allowed access

全免费使用的。不过,他可以对客户的雪茄进

to this smoker’s heaven with its hundreds of thousands of cigars,

行挑选,决定谁有幸“入驻”这个拥有完美湿

you will quickly realise that the guest list not only includes

度和温度的“天堂”。目前这里保存的雪茄数

connoisseurs, but also famous figures from all over the world,

量已达到了几十万根,客户名单中不只包括雪

who have their favourite cigars stored here.

茄鉴赏家,还有全球各地很多著名人物,他们

Many of the “safes” contain photos of international actors who are regular clients here. Unfortunately discretion dictates that we cannot reveal their identity, as not every country would be pleased to know that its citizens are in possession of Cuban treasures in Geneva. If you are interested in having your cigars stored here you will need a little patience, as a waiting period of up to one year is typical. Vahé Gérard has experienced a great deal with “his” aficionados, 86

as he refers to his clientele of cigar enthusiasts. He certainly has Cigars

都纷纷将自己的雪茄保存于此。 很多“保险柜”中还贴着雪茄主人的照片,包 括经常光顾这个雪茄天堂的国际名演员。很抱 歉我们不能在此透露他们的身份,正如瑞士银 行绝对要为客户保密一样。这里吸引了全世界 雪茄迷的青睐,想要在此占有一席之地,在申 请后等上个一年半载都是很正常的。


“Private Bank of Cigars” founded by Vahé Gérard

plenty of stories to tell. For example, there’s the customer who

谈及客户们对雪茄的迷恋,瓦赫•杰拉德可以

regularly talks to his cigars. Or another who always buys his

为您介绍很多八卦趣闻。例如,有一位客户经

sons a box of cigars for Christmas and Easter, entrusting them

常对着自己的雪茄自言自语。另一位客户给儿

to Gérard for safekeeping, so that the next generation will have

子买的节日礼物,永远都是一盒雪茄,然后委

an impressive collection of mature cigars to call its own in a

托瓦赫•杰拉德保管,以便下一代也能在若干

few years’ time. On average, these aromatic beauties are held

年后拥有自己的陈年雪茄收藏。一般而言,这

in Geneva for about 15 years before being taken out of

些香气诱人的雪茄将在日内瓦存放约15年后才

storage. Sometimes a couple of them may end up in one of the various auctions that now specialise in vintage cigars. However, prospective buyers would be well advised only to place their trust in established suppliers. Optimum storage conditions are often of key importance for the development of an investment – the same principles that apply to vintage cars, watches or wines are also true for fine cigars. And, as Vahé Gérard demonstrates with his “private bank”, this can be matter of both taste and fascination.

会出库。有些雪茄最终会在越来越多的陈年雪 茄拍卖会中被买走。但如果您也想购置高档雪 茄,建议您选择可靠的供应商。 最佳保存条件通常是投资升值的关键,这既适 用于古董车、古董表或陈年葡萄酒,也同样适 用于上等雪茄。此外,精心保存不仅是为了提 升雪茄的风味,更是一种品位和热情的象征, 正如瓦赫•杰拉德的“私人雪茄库”所蕴含的 深意一样。 Cigars

87


New Hair NEW LIFE Own-hair transplantation by Angela Lehmann By Patricia Schweizer Translation Fabienne Bensberg


Voluminous hair that you can dye and style as you like is a privilege which many people, predominantly men, usually must do without. The underlying causes for hair loss can be a hereditary predisposition, illness, accidents, or postoperative scarring.

如果您拥有一头浓密秀发,可

Although medical research in this field has already made great

尽管该领域的医疗研究已经取得了很大进步,

advancements, the results mostly concern prevention. For those

但大部分的研究重点仍是如何预防。如果您不

who want to avoid undesired baldness in the future and also

是只想避免未来脱发秃顶,而是希望在脱发甚

benefit from a rapid and complete remedy today must look

至秃顶发生后,找到快速有效的生发妙招,那

somewhere else for help.

么,您就要考虑其他的办法了。

For decades, a well-tried and successful method is the trans-

在过去的几十年中,自体植发是一个比较常见

plantation of one’s own hair. Instead of increasing the number of existing hair follicles or artificially reconstructing them, hair transplantation takes existing hair that serves as the donor area and redistributes the individual hairs. World-wide, such transplantations are executed a great deal more frequently than generally assumed, whereby the degree of success can be very different depending on physician and method.

以随心所欲地染发和造型,那 么您真是太幸运了,因为这对 很多人而言近乎是一种奢求, 尤其是在男性群体中。脱发的 原因有很多,比如遗传、疾 病、事故或是术后疤痕等。

的成功方法。它不会增加现有的毛囊数量,也 不是对毛囊进行人工重建。而是将您现有的发 囊在头皮上进行重新分配。从全球范围来看, 采用植发方式避免秃顶的人数远远超过人们的 想象。但最终效果的满意程度,还要取决于手 术的医生和方法。

A true luminary in the field of own-hair transplantation is Angela

安吉拉·勒曼(Angela Lehmann)是自体植发

Lehmann. In over 25 years she has gained extensive experience

领域中真正的大师,拥有超过25年的实战经

with her patients, and shares her well-founded specialised know-

验,曾在世界各地的研讨会、教育课程和拓展

ledge in seminars, educational and extended training courses

培训课程中,与医生们分享她的经验和专业知

for physicians around the world. Every year she helps numerous

识。她目前在整形外科医生克努提(Knutti)先生

patients to regain voluminous hair in the Biel Clinic of the plastic

的贝尔诊所(Biel Clinic)中工作,每年都会帮助

surgeon Dr. Knutti. Her method, which then as now is one of

大量患者重获浓密秀发。无论是在过去还是现

Process of hair loss due to genetic conditions.

Medical & Health

89


Patient Moritz P. before the first hair transplant (operation)

Define the new hairline

the surest and most successful surgical techniques, provides a

在,她的植发方法都是业内最有效、最成功

completely natural result and gives the patients new zest for life.

的,外观自然,让患者重新燃起生活热情。

One of her many satisfied patients is the businessman Olivier

她的患者之一,商人奥利佛·巴赫曼,对自己

Bachmann. Questioned about how he came to consider a hair

的“新头发”就非常满意。在被问及为什么考

transplantation, he told us how, almost ten years ago, he had

虑进行植发时,他介绍说:在大约10年前,一

been impressed by a colleague’s opulent hair growth. Asked

位曾经秃顶的同事忽然长出了浓密的头发,吸

about it, this likewise formerly bald-headed colleague told him about his hair transplantation. After an initial unfortunate attempt with subsequent complications, he fortunately made the acquaintance of Angela Lehmann, who helped him to his now voluminous and absolutely naturally splendid head of hair with meticulous corrective operations. Ms. Lehmann’s professional services include such post-treatment operations, when she is often called upon to improve or remedy previously unsatisfactory outcomes of other surgeons until achieving an ultimately successful result.

引了他的注意。同事向他介绍了植发方法。但 奥利佛随后进行的植发手术却并不成功,甚至 还产生了并发症。幸运的是,他通过安吉拉· 勒曼的一个朋友找到了这位医生。安吉拉对奥 利弗进行了多次矫正手术,最终让他也获得了 一头自然浓密的头发。勒曼医生提供的专业化 服务中,还包括植发后调整手术,对其他医生 所进行的不完善植发进行修改和矫正,直到达 到令患者满意的效果。

Olivier Bachmann has never made a secret of his hair transplantation. Were he not to talk about it himself with such a

奥利佛·巴赫曼从不掩饰自己的好头发是植发

enthusiasm, no one would think it possible that he was unhappily

的结果。如果不是他热情洋溢地讲述这件事

bald just a few years ago. “With Angela Lehmann you have

情,没有人能想到几年前的他曾是一名郁闷的

the secure feeling that she knows what she is doing and is honest

秃头。他说:“安吉拉·勒曼会让你获得一种

and 100% serious, something I very much appreciated.”

安全感,她知道自己在做什么,她的态度诚实 而严谨。这一点让我非常欣赏。”

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Medical & Health


Patient Moritz P. after 3 successful operations, within 15 months.

Only the initial 1 to 3 days after the operation are somewhat

植发手术后1-3天内会感觉比较不适,但很快就

arduous, but this time is rapidly forgotten. He describes the ope-

会恢复正常。从他和其他患者的描述来看,安

ration itself, as practically all the other patients do, as surprisingly

吉拉的手术出人意料的简单。事实上,这种感

uncomplicated. A visit to the dentist is considerably more unpleasant.

觉甚至比看牙医还轻松。

The hair transplantation is carried out in a comfortable atmosphere with local anaesthesia and takes about 3 to 7 hours. Tiny skin islands with hair roots, up to 120 grafts, are removed from the back of the head and subsequently broken up into 1,400 still smaller micrografts of one to three hairs each. Small skin particles are accordingly removed at the thin or bald places and the fine transplants are inserted in the gaps according to the natural hair

植发手术将在一个舒适的氛围中进行,采用局 部麻醉,全程约3-7个小时。医生将从后枕骨位 置取下带有发囊的小块皮肤,最多取120块。 然后将这些皮肤分成1400块更小的移植体,每 一块上都有1-3个发根。接下来,医生将在发量 稀少或全秃的位置取下小块头皮,将带有毛囊

growth direction. Because of the good blood circulation of the

的小块移植体植入取下头皮的位置,同时还要

scalp, the “new” hair grows without difficulty within a few days.

考虑到头发自然的生长方向。由于头皮内的血 管丰富,血液循环好,几天后,“新”发就会

Angela Lehmann exclusively carries out her S&P Extraction

开始正常生长。

operation method that has proven so well in decades of practice. In contrast to the FUE method (Follicular Unite Extraction),

安吉拉·勒曼自创了一种名为S&P移植法的手

which is also often applied, her method is associated with

术方法,几十年来积累的无数成功病例充分证

somewhat more effort and costs for her as physician. But it

明了它的效果。与常见的FUE(毛囊单位移

gives the patients the assurance that every hair follicle which is

植)不同的是,她的方法需要医生付出更多的

removed and reused is undamaged, and permanent hair is

精力,成本也更高。但对患者却益处良多:所

produced that will grow at a natural angle – another diffe-

移植和使用的每一个毛囊都不会受损,在移植

rence to the FUE method. It is not only the small details of

后会以自然的角度生长,未来不会再次脱落。 Medical & Health

91


The S&P Extraction operation method.

这也是与FUE方法的重要区别。除了这些优势 以外,她的手术几乎不会留下外露的疤痕,因 此效果会更加自然。

her process but also the scars, which are practically invisible,

我们有幸旁观了一次安吉拉医生的植发手术。

which let Ms. Lehmann’s outcomes appear so natural.

在整个过程中,尽管医生以严谨入微的专业精 神进行着每一步操作,但医生、两名助手和患

We were also able to observe such an operation and were

者之间却始终保持着轻松舒服的氛围。勒曼医

surprised at the relaxed atmosphere between the specialist,

生每天最多只进行一次手术。她会对每一位患

the two assistants and the patient during the transplantation

者投入大量的精力和时间。避免工作压力和忙

itself, which was carried out with extreme care and professio-

乱的节奏,对她而言非常重要。

nalism. Every day Ms. Lehmann operates on at most one patient. She takes plenty of time for every single person, because it

在进行了四次手术之后,奥利佛·巴赫曼现在

is important for her to work without time pressure or at a

可以尽情炫耀他那完全自然生长的头发了。一

hectic pace.

般而言,患者在接受了间隔大约3个月的2次手 术后,就能看到最佳效果,当然,所需时间与

After a total of four operations, Olivier Bachmann now enjoys

头皮手术的面积和自体发量的多少有关。安吉

completely natural hair growth. Depending on the size of the

拉·勒曼医生的S&P移植法不需要将现有的头

head surface under treatment and the quantity of one’s own

发全部剃光,只需要在后枕骨位置取一条约1-2

residual hair, perfect outcomes can usually be achieved

厘米宽的头皮即可。因此,在手术后的几个月 中,这个位置的头发会很快恢复原状。移植手 术的所有痕迹都会被巧妙地掩藏起来,让患者 可以迅速恢复正常的生活和工作。 自从几年前接收自体植发手术以来,每当奥利 弗·巴赫曼看到有人受脱发困扰,他就会建议 对方进行植发手术,而且,最好是由安吉拉·

Micro-Grafts

Mini-Grafts

Standart-Grafts

勒曼医生亲自上阵。如需了解更多信息,请访 问:www.haartransplantationen.ch

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Medical & Health


already after only two operations at a spacing of approximately three months. The S&P Extraction method applied by Angela Lehmann does not require that the entire residual hair be shaved. Instead, only a strip approximately one to two centimetres wide is shaved for hair removal at the back of the head, so that the hair can already regrow in the month of the operation. All indications of a fresh hair transplant can be optimally concealed and the patient can very rapidly return to his workplace again. Even today, several years after his own hair transplantation,

ANGELA LEHMANN I Hair for life Biel Aesthetic Surgery Clinic

Olivier Bachmann would advise anybody suffering from hair loss to take such a step – especially if the operation is carried

Bahnhofstrasse 39

out by Ms. Angela Lehmann.

Phone: +41 (0)32 322 77 83

www.haartransplantationen.ch

More information at:

2502 Biel I Switzerland info@haartransplantationen.ch

Medical & Health

00


EXECUTIVE

EXPRESS 94

Porsche Panamera Turbo S Executive

Automobile


Performance and luxury for discerning drivers.

高性能的奢华体验,

Porsche is placing its fastest, most powerful and most luxurious

保时捷(Porsche)高级旅游车(Gran Turismo)系

Panamera at the peak of its Gran Turismo series: With a power

列自问世以来就受到热捧,目前正处于其发展的

output of 570 bhp and a top speed of 310 km/h plus a

巅峰状态。最近���保时捷将动力最强悍、配置最

particularly extensive and top-quality range of features, the

豪华的Panamera新品纳入该系列之中:马力输

Panamera Turbo is guaranteed a special status in its market segment. For the first time ever, an Executive version of the Panamera Turbo S is also available with a wheelbase that has been extended by 15 centimetres. As a result, the Panamera Turbo S Executive offers significantly more space and even

独具慧眼的驾驭者专属

出570bhp,最高速度310km/h,搭载该系列 特有的顶级配置,让Panamera Turbo在市场中 倍显鹤立鸡群。Panamera Turbo S系的 Executive型号首次提供加长版:轴距延长15厘

95


Porsche Panamera Turbo S Executive

more comfort, particularly at the rear. Thermal and noise-insulated

米,为Panamera Turbo S Executive提供了更

windows, which include privacy glazing, the interior lighting

大的内部空间和最大舒适度,尤其是在后座位

package designed especially for the rear and a large centre

置。该系列的选配项目非常丰富,比如隔热隔音

console at the rear are just some of the extensive equipment

车窗上的釉层,让内部空间更私密;专门针对后

options that belong to this series.

座空间的照明系统,以及后座位置的大中央控制 台等。

The sporty, luxurious character of the new Panamera Turbo S is evident not only in its driving performance but also in the key distinguishing features of its appearance. The Palladium, metallic

新Panamera Turbo S的动感和奢华感不仅体现

exterior colour, which is available solely for the new Panamera

在其驾驶性能上,其外观也是异常的夺目抢眼。

Turbo S, gives the top model an especially exclusive look and

钯金色是Panamera Turbo S外饰的专属色,赋

enhances the classy, elegant contours. An indication of the

予这个顶级车型卓然高贵的外观,让车身轮廓更

vehicle’s outstanding driving dynamics is provided by the 20inch 911 Turbo II wheels, which are not only larger but also significantly wider than the standard wheels belonging to other Gran Turismo models. The four-way rear spoiler, painted in the same colour as the exterior, is another unique feature. The new top Panamera model from Porsche features an exceptionally extensive range of equipment appropriate for a top model in the luxury class. It features all of the driving dynamics control systems available for the model range as standard. Thanks to the race-tested ceramic brakes with yellow brake callipers the Panamera Turbo S benefits from a high-performance brake system that is particularly resistant to brake fading and wear.

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Automobile


显帅气优雅。20英寸的911 Turbo II车轮,是其 卓越驾驶性能的标志之一 — 不仅直径更大,而且 比其它Gran Turismo车型的标准车轮更宽。与车 漆同色的四向后扰流板,也是该车型的另一个特 色。 新保时捷Panamera提供了种类多样的型号供选 择,彰显其多样化奢侈顶级车型的本色。所有型 号均配有全套驾驶动力控制系统。拥有赛车血统 的陶瓷刹车片,配黄色制动卡钳,实现了高性能

A 50-bhp increase in power compared to the Panamera Turbo engine has been achieved through specific revision work. By preparing the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chambers more effectively, the torque also increases by 50 Nm to 750 Nm, with the overboost increasing to 800 Nm. The extra torque makes overtaking even easier and faster.

的制动效果,更可防止制动失效和磨损。 与Panamera Turbo标准引擎相比,Executive 的发动机经过了特别的改进,马力增加50bhp。 燃烧室内更高效率的燃油空气混合,使得扭矩增 加50Nm至750Nm,超增压则可达到800Nm。 更大扭矩使得超车变得轻而易举。

Thanks to the all-wheel drive system, the new Panamera Turbo S is also perfectly equipped to effectively convert its increased

凭借全轮驱动系统,新Panamera Turbo S还能

level of power and torque into sporty driving dynamics accele-

以其更高的动力和扭矩,获得更接近赛车的驾驶

rating the new Gran Turismo top model from 0 to 100 km/h in

体验。0到100km/h加速仅需3.8秒,令人叹为

3.8 seconds.

www.porsche.com

观止。

www.porsche.com


Sharing Building civilisations

luxury Photo: shutterstock.com

By Cyril Demaria

Louvre Museum, Paris, France


Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este 2013

Is luxury necessarily exclusive? Answering this question takes us to the aims and attributes attached to the concept of luxury and its role as a building block of civilisation.

increased sense of delight to their owners knowing that others (the ‘public’) can only imagine living the experience that comes with ownership.   There is more to luxury, though. Owning a Picasso or a vintage sports car is a complex and subtle experience. For example, co-owning a piece of prestigious art and lending it to famous museum, instead of taking turns displaying it in the living room, defies status seeking. Obviously, this act

Luxury contributes to establishing social status in the sense that

might be seen as a pure investment, exempt from

luxury feeds on a certain exclusivity: being able not only to afford,

passion, with the painting increasing its worth

but also to display, the full fruition of owning a luxury item is part

every time it is seen by museum visitors. As a matter

and parcel of status affirmation. The happy few owning a Picasso,

of fact, sharing luxury houses and flats, private jets

or a limited edition of a vintage sports car, exhibit their wealth

or luxury cars (‘time sharing’) was probably born

and their timely access to the prized item, as well as their taste.

from status seeking without the full financial means.

They assert their participation and their implicit inclusion in a

 

loosely-defined social group (an ‘elite’) built on exclusivity.

The mirror effect of public enlightenment.

 

Is lending fine art to museums only enhancing the

Treasured pieces transfer to their privileged owners their intrinsic

value of the piece? Not necessarily. By enlightening

qualities: an aesthetic emotion, a driving experience, a renewed

the public at large, the owner of a famous piece

stimulation of senses and of the mind. They will also trigger an

not only takes a calculated risk (for example, Culture

99


100

Culture

damage or robbery) of improving his personal wealth. He also

Education, curiosity and empathy.

fuels a diffuse sense of admiration, envy and joy which makes

Enhancing the experience of luxury in sharing

the piece more valuable. For that, the public has to be educated

requires, in fact, three dimensions which are com-

on what it is, or more precisely what it could be, to be the fully

mon to tasting fine wine, or smoking rare tobacco.

beneficial owner. Sharing the magic of seeing a portrait from

Owning is merely second to experiencing: seizing

Renoir, or of appreciating the absolute beauty of a Vermeer,

the moment to fully develop the interaction between

belongs to the experience of luxury.

senses and the object of luxury.

 

 

Even more complex, luxury can sometimes only be experienced

The first dimension is education: learning to appre-

to its fullest extent when shared with others. Going to the opera

ciate, to cultivate an intimate garden of sensorial

alone is a delight, but sharing this experience with a public of

references and a body of comparisons. This know-

connoisseurs enhances this experience: the implicit validation

ledge is a common language built by different

of the common respiration and joy of the room acts as a mirror

participants so as to mutually share their own

of our own emotions. Validation, and sharing, is part of the

experience and support the discovery of others.

luxury experience.

The aim is to share a form of applied wisdom, and

 

to appreciate further the overall experience that

Should sharing be extended to everyone, everywhere and on

will, in turn, enrich our mental library of experiences.

everything? By copying Leonardo’s Mona Lisa on every single

 

support, does the intimate aesthetic emotion that it triggers

The second dimension is a blend of curiosity,

improve? Obviously, not. Reproducing the experience to the

open-mindedness and thirst for new qualitative

infinite dilutes the emotion and reduces it to nil. Overstretched

experiences. By welcoming a certain sensorial

luxury brands which have lost their appeal and status are

disorder, a questioning of our patient education

testament to this risk – and a constant reminder to their more

and personal elevation, each of us participates in

fortunate peers of what could happen.

a communal symphonic echo chamber: reflecting


sensorial experiences as much as changing and enhancing

of a common experience, and perhaps support

them in the process. This is why Harvard professors Elizabeth

an educated conversation, later contributing to

Dunn and Michael Norton advise us in Happy Money: The

the culture of the participants, and very modestly

Science of Smarter Spending to “buy experiences, make them

to the edification of a civilisation.

a treat, buy time, pay now and consume later, as well as invest

 

in others”.

Is this conclusion overblown? Not if we liken it to

 

Leibniz’s analogy of the roar of the waves on the

Luxury and culture

beach. To this German genius, the sound of the

The third dimension is empathy. While owning an object is an

waves is made up of a vast number of single

intimately individual, the experience of it is multifaceted and

sounds of which we are not conscious: each

extends far beyond the borders of our own limited senses. By

drop of water colliding into one another. Culture

opening a good bottle of wine, associating it with carefully

could, from this angle, be considered as the

crafted dishes, and building the right atmosphere for a select

construction, as well as the cumulative singular

group of guests, the host creates a unique combination gene-

experiences, of luxury defined as a shared expe-

rating a lasting emotion that will later become a valued and

rience between educated, curious and empathetic

cherished memory. This, in turn, will participate in the construction

individuals.


Artistry 2

3

CONSTANZE REINHARDT

SPHERESinSPACE 太空中的球体 Translation Mark S. Kennedy

1


4

5

Spheres in Space

太空中的球体

The sphere is a perfect shape that symbolises both space and sur-

球体是一种完美的形状,同时象征着空间和表面,既作为一个

face at the same time, acting as a projection surface while also

投影表面,又投射出其自有的独特特性,表达着融命题和陈述

projecting its own unique character, expressing a strong artistic

于一体的强烈艺术诉求。作为光源和照明体,球体创造了无数

statement that is both thesis and testimony in one. Used both as

新的让人欲罢不能的面,永远能够给人惊喜、充满魅力。材

an illuminated object and as a light source, it creates countless new

料:实心红杉木、橡木或柚木,经模塑、表皮处理、抛光或浸

and fascinating facets that never cease to surprise and enthral.

染,尺寸则取决于具体要求,最大直径为100厘米。亦有金属、

Material: solid sequoia, oak or teak, moulded, scarfed, polished, or dyed in sizes of up to 100 cm dia. on request. Also available in metal, leather, feathers, magnetic surfaces, with a figuratively painted finish or in monochrome using a wide variety of materials, in sizes from 50 cm to 120 cm dia. Symbols: “Phoenix” representing renewal and growth, “Magic” for boundaries and delimitation, “Aloha” for joie de vivre or “Space” for infinite possibility, available as decorative pieces and body adornment. Special designs: sculptures with a highly personal significance and impact can be produced together with the artist in an individual development process.

www.galerieconstanzereinhardt.com I

kunst@constanze-reinhardt.de

1 Space I Polyethylene ø 60 cm , at night 2 Artist Constanze Reinhardt 3 Aloha I Polyethylene ø 60 cm 4 Magic I Polyethylene ø 60 cm 5 Phoenix 1 I Sequoia massive, ø 85 cm 6 Space I Polyethylene ø 60 cm, in daylight

6

皮革、羽毛和磁性表面可供选择,使用各种材料实现形象涂漆 饰面或单色饰面,尺寸直径在50-120厘米之间。象征:“凤 凰”代表重生与成长;“魔法”代表界线和界定;“阿罗哈” 代表生活乐趣;“太空”代表无限可能,可用作装饰物品或随 身饰品。特别设计:在与艺术家合作的个性开发过程中,产生 了这些高度注重个人意义和影响的造型。

galerieconstanzereinhardt.com I kunst@constanze-reinhardt.de


Chinese Artist Jiang Hai

In his extensive works, the Chinese painter deals with the topic of Communism and the development of China’s system of values. Born in 1961, the artist has been involved since the 80s with the philosophy of existentialism and is deeply moved by social issues. The five works that form Original Utopia are modelled after portraits of Marx, Engels, Lenin, Stalin and Mao. The painter preserved their most striking attributes, such as Marx and Engels’ beards, the shape of Lenin’s face and Mao’s hair. But the facial features of these revolutionaries have been replaced by human bodies. These figures are completely lacking in individuality, and have been unwillingly arranged into different shapes. Each of the 5 portraits is in a 3 x 3 m format. These 45 pictures can be rearranged, and according to the artist’s intent, their second transformational form is Metamorphic Utopia. We can use Marx as an example to describe the approach behind this transformation. Each portrait consists of nine distinct sections, each in a 1 x 1 m format. Four of those sections are removed and replaced by sections from each of the other four leaders. In this phase, each revolutionary’s outline is still recognisable, though it has taken on certain elements from the other revolutionaries. As a result, in this series, Marx is five-ninths Marx, one-ninth Engels, one-ninth Lenin, one-ninth Stalin and one-ninth Mao. According to the artist, this implies that as

Art and Chinese modernity

JIANG

HAI

history develops, the original tenets of the revolutionaries become increasingly unclear as each revolutionary draws selectively from the others to affirm the legitimacy of his own political actions. Thus, Stalin’s portrait incorporates fragments of Marx, Engels and Lenin, while Marx’s image has been forcefully infused with the images of the others. This conceptual confusion developed into a new stage, the third transformation of this painting, Transformed Utopia. Unlike Metamorphic Utopia, this presentational form did not further appropriate fragments of other leaders into each portrait, but each revolutionary’s face became even less recognisable as the painter completely shuffled the order of Original Utopia. Now, each leader’s image is completely unrecognisable, making for only a series of interesting lines, colour fields and meaningless shapes. Then the artwork develops into its final, ultimate phase, Other Shore Utopia. Here, all 45 picture sections have been brought together to form a giant mural, a mural of bright colours and rich connotations. This is the final dissolution of utopia. All lofty political ideals and all

Ludwigsburg residential castle in Germany

of the political sins committed in the pursuit of these ideals have been fused into an indescribable scene. Which one is Marx? Which one is Mao? There is no discerning, and no need to discern. Utopia has become the “other shore,” rather than the perfect ultimate end of historical development on this side of life. The painter has always wanted to exhibit his utopia in this phase, but owing to certain limitations in the setting of reality, it is for now just a dream of the “other shore.” The exhibition in Ludwigsburg residential castle includes portraits of Mao, Marx and Stalin. For more informations about the exhibition visite: www.schloss-ludwigsburg.de. The gallery concept makes it possible to visit artists directly in their studio in China. galerieconstanzereinhardt.com I kunst@constanze-reinhardt.de


Artof Giving By Patricia Schweizer Translation Mark S. Kennedy

The personal touch reaches new peaks this winter. Max Chocolatier is a true master of the art of giving. This festive season it is ready to turn discerning shoppers and corporations into accomplished artists with unique gifts that use the finest Swiss chocolate as their medium. The A to Z of chocolate reaches Zurich To make things easier for Zurich-based Samichläuse and presentbuying angels, Max Chocolatier has just opened a Shop in Shop in Globus Bellevue. Here, a knowledgeable team matches customers and all those on their gift lists with the perfect chocolate surprise. Whether it’s expressed with a beautifully packaged bar of fireside chocolate, or seasonal truffles with gingerbread or bitter orange, their expertise is comparable to a crystal ball when it comes to getting it just right. Generous opening hours and a prime location make this a chocolate oasis on the Zurich shopping landscape.

Personalised to perfection For organisations and individuals wishing to find the ideal gift to transmit messages of appreciation, joy or luck, Max Chocolatier is the human equivalent of Santa’s grotto. Appropriate edible elements of the expressive language of chocolate are teamed with personalisation possibilities ranging from customised boxes and decoration, to handwritten labels. Even for smaller quantities the Max Chocolatier “elves” turn somersaults to make the impossible 106 00

Gourmet


麦克斯巧克力公司(Max Chocolatier)是名副其实的 礼物艺术大师。在这个节日 季节里,它已经做好了准 备,要用最好的瑞士巧克力 作为他们的传情媒介,将购 物者和公司变为高超的礼品 馈赠艺术家。

种类齐全的巧克力齐聚苏黎世 (Zurich) 为了方便苏黎世的“圣诞老人”和购买礼物的“ 天使”们,麦克斯巧克力刚刚在格洛布斯贝尔维 (Globus Bellevue)开了一个“店中店”。这里 有专业知识丰富的团队向顾客提供帮助,为其礼 品清单准备好完美的巧克力产品。不论是包装漂 亮的家庭巧克力棒,还是带姜饼或苦橙的季节性 松露巧克力,他们都像拥有魔力水晶球一样,能 够为客户“变“出最适合的产品。充足的营业时 间和优越的位置,会让这个店铺成为苏黎世购物 区的一块巧克力绿洲。

Gourmet

107


美个性化 如果您希望寻找理想的礼物来表达感激、快乐或 幸运之情,无论是公司或是个人,麦克斯巧克力 都会成为您的圣诞老人小屋。巧克力是一种可以 传递感情的美味食品,结合自选礼品盒、装饰和 手写标签,最终会呈现出最具个人风格的甜蜜礼 物。即使您只需购买少量巧克力,麦克斯巧克 力“精灵”也会百变出奇招,使不可能变为可 能。在他们眼里,无论是家庭聚会的主人,或是 大型圣诞派对的组织者,都有着同等重要的地位。

甜蜜的家 所有麦克斯巧克力均在卢塞恩(Lucerne)工作室手 工制作而成,使用100%天然产品和当季材料。可

possible. In their eyes, the hosts of a family gathering are equally as important as the organisers of Christmas galas hosting hundreds.

All of the Max Chocolatier goodies are handmade in their dedicated Lucerne atelier using 100% natural products and

巧克力泰迪熊、撒满金色雪花的绘画巧克力棒、美 式搞定购物清单上的所有甜品。

seasonal ingredients. The cacao used comes from around the

老话说得好,给予胜于索求 — 最好让巧克力来证

globe, yet is united in its commitment to fair trade and excellent

明吧。

quality. This year’s festive highlights include chocolate teddy

小时网店 www.maxchocolatier.com/en/shop

bears created in vintage moulds, pictorial bars scattered with golden snow, delicious baubles and patisserie treats that elegantly remove cookie baking from most to-do lists. They say that giving is better than receiving – best let the chocolate answer that one. Gourmet

承诺。今年的节日特色包括:使用老式模具制作的 味的巧克力小点和各式蛋糕点心,让您在这里一站

Home sweet home

108

可原料购自全球各地,但始终恪守公平贸易和优质

www.maxchocolatier.com

24/7 online shop at www.maxchocolatier.com/en/shop

www.maxchocolatier.com, 7×24小


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Must have Christmas

Cornavin Downtown Sport Collection

Cornavin – Swiss made quality and design. As one of the first Swiss watch brands to introduce the big date, Cornavin continues to strive for innovation and exclusivity. The Downtown Sport collection was inspired by the city of Geneva and features an eye-catching, octagonal case with 8 screws on the bezel. The 13 models of the Downtown Sport collection are equipped with sapphire crystal, screwed crown, screwed case back and rubber straps. With

Some watches of the Cornavin Downtown Sport collection are limited to

all models water resistant to up to 100m and the comfortable rubber straps,

999 pieces and are individually numbered on the case back. Cornavin works

the Downtown Sport collection is the ideal choice for anyone who likes to com-

with carefully selected, precious materials to ensure long-lasting satisfaction.

bine elegance with sportsmanship. Whether you prefer stainless steel, rose gold

Cornavin is available at selected retailers around the world. Please visit

or black PVD cases, you will find your personal favorite among this collection.

www.cornavin-watches.ch to find a retailer near you.

SENSAI ULTIMATE Seasonal Gift Set – Changing skin’s destiny. In ULTIMATE, our innovative new ingredient Sakura Eternal Complex, derived from the divine sakura tree, works in harmony with Koishimaru Silk to restore vitality to the skin’s appearance and bathe the skin in an ‘Endless Ocean of Moisture’, revealing a flawless complexion and luminous

112

glow. SENSAI ULTIMATE THE CREAM Limited Edition Must Have

features ULTIMATE THE CREAM in its original size, as well as a travel size version. www.sensai-cosmetics.com


Serve your finest spirits in an elegant way – Sterling Silver Stag Ice Bucket by Asprey. Asprey’s hallmarked sterling silver ice bucket with two stag heads is a luxury utensil perfect for entertaining guests. The superb craftsmanship combines tradition and contemporary design. Price £8,000.00. Available at www.harrods.com

Non-alcoholic luxury – for very special occasions. The luxury drink Gize is an excellent gift idea for any celebration. Gourmets and design aficionados are sure to appreciate the gold-filtered mineral water from Canada as a non-alcoholic alternative to champagne and wine. Gize is a hit not only in the classic form with and without carbonation as Sparkling and Still, but also as Gize+ in four sophisticated flavour compositions: Raspberry-Ginseng, Lemon-Elderflower, Pineapple-Coconut and Pear-Vinegar. Attractively packaged in a golden gift box with a magnetic closure, this multi-award-winning glass bottle is an example of purist design that is a highlight at any celebration.

无醇奢华—特殊场合专享 对于任何庆祝场合而言,奢华饮料吉思(Gize) 都是一 种特殊的礼品。除香槟和红酒之外,加拿大的黄金 过滤矿泉水作为无醇饮料,是美食家和设计爱好者 的首选。吉思产品不仅有经典的“发泡”(Sparkling) (含二氧化碳)和“不发泡”(Still)(不含二氧化碳的) 热销系列,还有四种精致风味混合型的吉斯+(Gize+) 也同样大受欢迎:木莓-人参、柠檬-接骨木花、菠 萝-椰子以及梨-醋。金色礼品盒磁封诱人包装,以及 作为纯粹设计典范并屡获殊荣的玻璃瓶,都会成为 任何庆祝活动的一道亮点。www.gize.com

119 113


Christmas Hamper by Harrods – The perfect gift for friends and loved ones.

A Harrods hamper makes a wonderful gift and our extensive range has been expertly chosen to delight your friends and family. If you

The St. James Hamper – Comprehensive is the word for this thought-

would like to create your own bespoke hamper, containing a special

fully curated spread, befitting of London’s princely quarter. Only the

selection of products hand-picked by you, please contact the Food

finest will do here; bone china mugs, cocoa-dusted macadamia nuts

Halls Order Desk on +44 (0)20 7893 041. For large scale orders,

and Turkish delight. Christmas pudding fudge and panettone enhance

please contact the Corporate Service team at Harrods on +44 (0)20

the Yuletide flavour. Contains alcohol. GBP 350. www.harrods.com

7225 5994 or e-mail corporate.service@harrods.com.

Aston Martin by Grant Macdonald. Add world-class finesse to your tableware collection with these statement serving accessories. Perfect for salt, pepper and condiments, Aston Martin for Grant Macdonald’s Sterling Silver Vector Pots are designed using state of the art computer technology and assembled with expert craftsmanship. Hallmarked sterling silver is worked into a clean lattice design, and the interiors lined with 24 karat gold plating for luxurious style your guests will never forget. www.harrods.com


www.ushaphotography.com

Veil your gift in an elegant way. A special gift for your loved ones or your valued business partners is crying for a classy packaging, which fully supports the value of the gift. The design studio yourSiGN is your professional partner regarding elegant, handmade and personalised packaging design. Their unique gift packaging can be produced from the smallest amount of 1 piece up to a large quantity, which is individually designed according to your taste and wishes. The talented graphic design team at yourSiGN will meet your highest expectations, choosing the best quality material for the creation of your design. www.yoursign.ch

The quintessentially English Smartphone – VERTU Aster. Aster is the new smartphone from Vertu. Handmade and finished by craftsmen, using the most luxurious materials. Aster is available in a palette of six, rich colours, across seven product executions. The new handset features Dolby® Digital Plus virtual surround sound and Hasselblad certified imaging, as well as Vertu’s full portfolio of services. A single 117 carat, 5.1” piece of 5th generation solid sapphire crystal protects Vertu Aster’s 4.7” HD display and 13mp camera lens from scratches. Aster ownership includes six months’ complimentary Classic Concierge service from a team of lifestyle managers available 24/7. www.vertu.com


Impressum

Publisher Luxury Life MAGAZINE GmbH Patricia Schweizer & Renato Schweizer Luzernerstrasse 24, 6330 Cham, Switzerland Phone +41 41 780 03 32 www.luxurylife-magazine.com EDITORIAL Publisher I Editor-in-Chief Renato Schweizer renato@luxurylife-magazine.com

Editorial staff of this issue Louise Mawbey, Monika Stolz, Patricia Schweizer, Sara Musinowski, Andreas Hofstätter, Cyril Demaria, Marcel Schewela, Mark S. Kennedy, Michael S. Hamilos, Renato Schweizer, Urs Nussbaumer, Uwe Herzog

Distribution regionS

Europe, Middle East, Asia Germany I Switzerland I Austria I London I Monaco Paris I French Riviera I Dubai I Abu Dhabi Singapore I Bangkok I Hong Kong I Shanghai I Beijing

Readers 500,000 readers of the highest purchasing power per issue

Print run Total 85,000 copies 41,000 copies English/German 44,000 copies English/Chinese

Frequency of publication 4 times a year (End of February, May, August, November)

ADVERTISING Publisher I Head of Marketing & Sales Patricia Schweizer patricia@luxurylife-magazine.com General advertising enquiries advertising@luxurylife-magazine.com Phone +41 79 295 97 95 Germany I Italy I Austria I ASIA I USA I UAE Andreas Hofstätter andreas@luxurylife-magazine.com Phone: +49 152 54 56 14 26 BENELUX I TURKEY Sara Musinowski sara@luxurylife-magazine.com Phone: +41 76 553 46 84 Advertising Sales Representatives SWITZERLAND (French Part) I FRANCE Jean-Philippe Zérafa I LBC Luxury Brand Communication jpz@lbc-agency.com Phone: +41 79 621 76 53 Asia I Pacific Peter Bakker I Immedia Services Pte. Ltd. peterbakker@immedia.com.sg Phone: +65 97 57 37 29 SPAIN Alfredo Rebagliati I EQUILIBRA | Agencia Integral de Medios direccion@equilibra.biz Phone: +34 627 221 121

ISSN 2235-0667


PARADISE PERFECTED Reaching out across 44 acres of lush landscaping edged by powdery white sands and a crystalline lagoon, The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort represents the epitome of carefree elegance. Its exquisitely designed Villas are the most luxurious in the South Pacific with spectacular views of the mystical Mount Otemanu. Three delectable restaurants, including Lagoon by Jean-Georges; the romantic Oasis Pool and Spa Miri Miri’s are some of the resort’s world-class services blending a blissful paradise with personalized service that are the hallmarks of St. Regis.

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Luxury Life MAGAZINE Christmas Edition 2014