Lentils with Leeks and Zampone makes 6 servings
Zampone is Modena’s most famous sausage, and it’s traditionally eaten with lentils on New Year’s Eve or Day all over Emilia-Romagna. It’s an odd-looking sausage: a stuffed pig’s foot filled with all that is pig, plus nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, and black pepper. It has been a specialty of the region since at least the 1500s. Italian zampone is not yet exported to America, but I find very good locally made versions in some New York Italian specialty stores in winter months. I also find Modena-style cotechino, a big, fat sausage with a similar flavor but made in standard sausage casing. A famous version of that sausage is made in Cremona. Both are paired with lentils for the New Year’s good-luck meal. If you can’t find those, a good-quality fresh Italian sausage will make a more than decent stand-in, but choose a sweet sausage without hot pepper in it. Italian lentils are small and firm, and hold their shape after cooking, not breaking down into a mush. Many areas of Italy produce wonderful lentils. The type I’m most likely to find here are from Castelluccio, in Umbria. French Le Puy lentils are similar and make a great substitution. Serve this dish with a Lambrusco, a classic red wine from the region. Fattoria Moretto makes a nice one, with only a hint of sweetness. 1 2 2 ½ 5 1 2 5 1 ¼
NUTRITION
4 1
pound italian or le puy lentils bay leaves tablespoons red wine vinegar teaspoon ground allspice generous pinch salt tablespoons extra virgin olive oil tablespoon dijon mustard thin slices pancetta, chopped medium leeks, white part only, finely chopped carrot, peeled and cut into small dice cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped, plus extra sprigs for garnish rosemary sprigs, leaves well chopped 2½- to 3-pound zampone or cotechino sausage, or 12 sweet italian sausages salt and pepper to taste
BUCATINI W. FRESH TUNA, CAPERS, & PISTACHIOS: per serving: calories 645 (141 from fat); Fat 16g (sat. 2g); chol 40mg; sodium 978mg; carB 84g; FiBer 8g; protein 40g
BLOOD ORANGE SALAD W. MINT & BLACK OLIVES: per serving: calories 176 (89 from fat); Fat 10g (sat. 1g); chol 0mg; sodium 60mg; carB 22g; FiBer 5g; protein 2g
OSSO BUCO W. SAGE GREMOLATA & RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE: per serving: calories 1159 (516 from fat); Fat 58g (sat. 27g); chol 369mg; sodium 1677mg; carB 64g; FiBer 4g; protein 88g
1. In a large saucepan, cover lentils with 3 inches cold water, add bay leaves, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon vinegar, the allspice, and a generous pinch salt and cook 5 minutes, until lentils are tender. Drain. Discard bay leaves. 2. In a small bowl, whisk 3 tablespoons oil with mustard and remaining (1 tablespoon) vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. 3. In a large skillet, heat remaining oil. Add pancetta and cook over moderately high heat 3 to 4 minutes, until lightly browned. Add leeks and carrot; cook 5 minutes, until beginning to soften. Add lentils and sauté, stirring, 1 minute. Turn off heat. Stir in vinaigrette, parsley, and rosemary. Add salt and pepper to taste. 4. While lentils are cooking, prepare sausage. Pierce sausage skin in a few places. Place in a large pot and cover with cool water by 4 inches. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer 20 to 25 minutes. (Most of the zampone or cotechino I buy here is precooked, so I only need to warm them through. If you happen to find a fresh one, you’ll want to simmer it 45 minutes. If you’re using the more standard Italian sausage, brown in a skillet, splash with a little wine, cover, and cook 10 minutes, until just tender. You can’t really boil that kind of sausage.) 5. Transfer lentils to a wide serving bowl. Slice sausage thickly on an angle and arrange on top. Garnish with parsley sprigs and serve.
Pears with Parmigiano-Reggiano and Balsamic Vinegar makes 6 servings
Emilia-Romagna is also the home of Parmigiano-Reggiano and balsamic vinegar. That beautiful cheese is often served at the end of a meal with a drizzle of high-quality balsamico. Here I’ve added pears to the combination to be served as an appetizer or dessert. 3 fragrant but not too soft pears, such as red anjou 1 ½-pound wedge parmigiano-reggiano 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (the best will be labeled “aceto Balsamico tradizionale di modena”) 1. Put out 6 small plates. Cut pears into thin slices. 2. Cut Parmigiano-Reggiano into 6 pieces. 3. Divide pears among plates, fanning out slices. Place a piece of cheese at base of pears and drizzle with vinegar. Serve immediately. ■
BUDINO DI PANETTONE W. ALMONDS, LEMON, & VANILLA: per serving: calories 658 (251 from fat); Fat 27g (sat. 12g); chol 291mg; sodium 359mg; carB 81g; FiBer 3g; protein 18g
LENTILS W. LEEKS & ZAMPONE: per serving: calories 910 (486 from fat); Fat 54g (sat. 17g); chol 84mg; sodium 1867mg; carB 60g; FiBer 14g; protein 48g
PEARS W. PARMIGIANOREGGIANO & BALSAMIC VINEGAR: per serving: calories 204 (87 from fat); Fat 10g (sat. 6g); chol 26mg; sodium 608mg; carB 16g; FiBer 3g; protein 14g
winter 2013 real food 39