pairings
Hot Companions Beef up your grilling repertoire with delicious wine partners BY MARY SUBIALKA
T
he summer air may be filled with wonderful aromas of freshly cut grass and flowers, but the smoky scent of steak sizzling on the grill is often what piques curiosity throughout a neighborhood as it wafts about on the warm breezes, inspiring entrée envy in those wondering whose dinner smells so delicious. Whether you are firing up the grill or bringing wine to share with friends, a few factors to consider will help make a match with beef. Generally, you won’t go wrong with a red wine, but there are some nuances to consider for your selection. There are flavors common to grilled foods such as those contributed by smokiness, which lend slightly sweet vanilla and earthy flavors, plus a caramelized flavor from the sweetness of the meat’s burned sugars. These elements need a wine with lots of body, richness and fruit flavor, as well as an adequate amount of acidity or tannins. Plus, the seasonings, marinades and sauces used can influence a wine selection. For mildly smoked beef, Pinot Noir, Rioja or Chianti can be refreshing counterparts. If you spice up the beef with a smokier flavor from a spicy dry rub or liquid solution, these lend big, sweet, spicy flavors, which can suppress the perception of acidity in the wine, making it taste flat. These preparations call for a big wine that has some spice and oak, such as Syrah, Petite Sirah or Zinfandel. If your creations include barbecue sauce, Zinfandel also pairs best with the classic sauce flavor—it has the fruit to match this tomato-based sauce, and it has spice to stand up to a little bit of heat. If the sauce is mildly spiced, Cabernet can work well. For a pairing with spicier barbecue sauce, fruit-forward Merlot will support but not compete with the flavors. There are many opportunities to fire up the grill throughout the summer, and experimenting with your favorite pairings might be a worthy goal for the season.
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
56 real food summer 2018
