Page 1

11

SUBBOTINA ANNA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Jewellery Historian 速


INSIDE THIS ISSUE


JUNE 2015 INTRODUCING DJULA Seductive originality that drapes modern women in French elegance

COVER STORY MAGERIT JOYAS Exquisite pieces of art, unique as the people who wear them

INTERVIEW MANJU KOTHARI An introduction to her creative world

A NEW MUST VLADIMIR MARKIN High-tech jewellery of exceptional beauty and quality

DESIGNER MOMENTS MAURO FELTER Jewellery designer Mauro Felter talks about what he treasures most in life

SPOTLIGHT ENTICE Elegance and taste in an effortless combination of inspiration

23 39 67 77 134 119

REGULARS EDITOR’S LETTER Our editor-in-chief introduces you the new issue

ISSUE GLOBE All the jewellery designers of this issue at a glance

NEWS News from around the world

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS EMERALD Eva introduces us a new gemstone in every issue

OUR FAVES Jewellery for an important moment of life

ESTHÈTE The editor’s jewellery choice of the month

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

04 05 09 97 105 95

2


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

3


EDITOR’S LETTER At the Jewellery Historian we are constantly looking for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. We value creativity and innovation and we're not afraid to challenge ourselves. This issue is once more, the proof of the passion we have for challenge and innovation. While searching new and innovative ways of delivering information that can resonate long after publication, combined to a uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling, we decided  to entirely redesign the Jewellery Historian,  the first free press e-magazine exclusively focused on jewellery & luxury, with readers around the globe. Today the jewellery industry is as dynamic as it is fast growing. Consequential changes are under way, both in consumer behavior as well as in the industry itself. Jewellery players can’t simply do business as usual and expect to thrive; they must be alert and responsive to important trends and developments or else risk being left behind by more agile competitors. All these also apply to us. If we want to deliver information that can resonate for long time after publication and showcase all these amazing creations made by the most talented designers and brands with a uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling, we must also change and this constantly. Our big difference, is that we do not consider anyone our competitor, since for us they are our colleagues, we are always open to collaborations & partnerships, to jewellery lovers, bloggers and journalists by inviting them to join us in this project and keep it available for free to as much readers as possible without sacrificing quality and our standards. At the Jewellery Historian, we believe that change is not only great, it is a force that strengthen and differentiates us. I “give” you this new design, this new issue, hoping that you will love it, as much you did during our first year.

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

4


ISSUE GLOBE

11

5


In every issue, we introduce you to the most talented jewellery designers. At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. We value creativity and innovation and we're not afraid to challenge ourselves and others. Our main mission is to educate, inspire and to promote jewellery & timepieces designers,  the expertise and vision of famous international  maisons and talented young designers with the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery & watch design as a form of creative expression. Discover the designers & brands that we are honored to showcase in this issue.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

6


Alexandre CORROT In 1994; Alexandre Corrot launched his jewelry line, Djula. He opened his first store, featuring modern, geometric designs in the heart of Paris’ famously chic Latin Quarter. By 2004, Alexandre Corrot had become renowned within Paris’ exclusive community of luxury retailers. His collections expanded to feature diamonds and precious stones set against white, yellow, rose or black gold, quickly becoming “must haves” on the Paris scene. Every year, he designs and creates more than 200 pieces in his Parisian Atelier including rings and bracelets, necklaces and earrings. Djula’s catalog is a rich variety of gold, precious and semi‐precious jewelry pieces. Today, Djula is clearly recognized as one as the most famous, in‐demand jewelry brands in Europe with an emphasis on fashionable yet timeless design.

Manju KOTHARI With a wide and exotic range of timeless pieces, “Entice” Jewellery embodies elegance and taste in an effortless combination of classical and contemporary influences. Together with an expertise exceeding a century and finest craftsmanship, the fine jewellery brand 'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. The KGK group, established in 1905 by the Kothari family of Jaipur (India), is a global corporation with fully integrated operations in the Gems & Jewellery industry, having presence across 13 countries. A pioneer in the world of precious stones, KGK Group has been sourcing, manufacturing and distributing coloured stones, diamonds and jewellery for decades. Being a DTC sightholder provides it an easy access to diamonds at most reasonable prices. The strength of KGK is vast, resulting in unmatchable benefits to the end consumer.

7


MAGERIT JOYAS Magerit is a Spanish company founded in 1994 and made up of professionals whose knowledge and great experience in the field of fine jewellery cultivates designs distinguished by a high degree of both creativity and originality. The headquarters are in the heart of Spain, and even the company’s name, Magerit, an ancient name for the thriving city of Madrid, reflects this. Like the meaning behind the name, ‘place of many streams’, Magerit draws inspiration from many cultures and different regions to create exquisite pieces of art, which are as unique as the people who wear them. Magerit takes pride in making top-quality artisanal jewelry. From creating bespoke personal designs to highly original and refreshing pieces, Magerit’s foremost objective is to breathe new life into the traditional jewelry industry.

Vladimir MARKIN MARKIN Fine Jewellery was established in 2011 in Moscow, where the workshop and showroom were opened in the heart of the city. Since then, the brand has opened an office, showroom and workshop in Hong Kong, now the international headquarters, and established a further presence in London and Singapore. In order to highlight the basic philosophy of the brand, MARKIN does not hide the workflow or mechanisms; on the contrary, it poeticizes them. MARKIN makes high- tech jewellery of exceptional beauty and quality; therefore, it is important to focus on the essentials, without distraction.

8


NEWS


10


G UC C I New advertising campaign

Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry unveil its new global advertising campaign at Baselworld 2015. Shot by photographer Sølve Sundsbø, these glamorous portraits feature Danish model Nadja Bender and Italian male model Tommaso De Benedictis. The campaign is made up of five visuals, showcasing four timepieces – two for women and two for men – and a selection of stunning women’s High Jewelry items. Nadja is seen wearing the brand-new Diamantissima watch, a new, refined timepiece for the modern woman. In a change of mood, she also reveals one of the new Horsebit timepiece extensions, which embodies a more contemporary allure. Modeling Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry’s men’s offering, Tommaso shows off a new variant of the Gucci Dive watch, in all black, with a sporty rubber strap, and the chic G-Chrono timepiece in tones of bronze and brown, with its recognizable Gucci ‘G’ detailing around the bezel. Visuals for the High Jewelry collection show the Horsebit collection, whereby a luxurious horsebit bracelet and matching ring are worked in 18kt white gold, with diamond pavé embellishments.

Gucci Timepieces has been designing, developing and manufacturing iconic Gucci watches since the early 1970s. Taking advantage of the worldwide recognition of the Florentine house – and its unique duality in brand positioning, pairing modernity and heritage, innovation and craftsmanship, trendsetting and sophistication – Gucci Timepieces is one of the most reliable and consistent fashion watch brands, with a clear design approach and positioning. Made in Switzerland, Gucci watches are recognized for their design, quality and craftsmanship and are distributed worldwide through the exclusive network of directly operated Gucci boutiques and selected watch distributors. Since January 2010, Gucci Timepieces has also been distributing the Gucci Jewelry collections, capitalizing on the expertise gained in the watch sector and leveraging the synergies between the watch and jewelry industries. Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands. www.gucciwatches.com

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

11


Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI

12


Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI

Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI

OUR NEWS

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

13


Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI

14


A N NA H U Emily Blunt wears Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie at the premiere of “Sicario” at the Cannes Film Festival

Emily Blunt, was wearing Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie exclusively to the gala premiere of “Sicario”, on May 19th, 2015, at the Cannes International film festival, held in Cannes, France. MODERN ART DECO EARRINGS IN EMERALD II

These one-of-kind earrings feature two pear-shaped emeralds weighing 31.56 carats with two step cut emeralds weighing 7.8 carats, emeralds and round brilliant cut white diamonds set in 18k white gold. Total weight: 43.32 carats ELLINGTON BANGLE IN EMERALD

This one-of-kind bangle feature ten emeralds weighing 15.80 carats, pear- shaped white diamonds, triangle-shaped white diamonds, baguette cut white diamonds, and round brilliant cut white diamonds, set in 18k white gold. Total weight: 33.24 carats WALLIS SIMPSON BRACELET

Inspired by the Duchess of Windsor, this exquisite one-of-a-kind bracelet features D color emerald-cut white diamonds and round brilliant cut white diamonds, set in 18k white gold. Total weight: 35 carats DUCHESS HIBISCUS RING

The Duchess Hibiscus Collection is one of Anna’s earliest and most iconic. The Duchess Hibiscus Ring in White Diamonds features a 1.29 carats rose cut white diamond and round brilliant cut white diamonds set in 18k white gold. It’s innovative design features two shanks, which allow it to be worn stacked on one finger or opened across two fingers. Total weight: 9.12 carats

Anna Hu founded her namesake brand, Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie, at the age of 30 and opened her first flagship boutique in New York’s Plaza Hotel in 2008. She has since opened flagships in Shanghai’s renowned Bund area and most recently at the luxurious new Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Taipei. She is the only Asian American jewelry designer to work exclusively with French-trained artisans to create one-of-akind artworks featuring the world’s rarest gems. Highly educated in the United States with degrees from Colombia University, the Gemological Institute of America, Parsons School of Design, and NY’s Fashion Institute of Technology, Anna is as much a scholar as she is an artist and her exquisite designs reflect that unique sophistication. Her work combines Eastern and Western influences, often inspired by classical music and nature, with particular reference to Impressionism and Art Nouveau. Anna presented her first global exhibition at the Louvre’s Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris in July 2012 and launched her first book, “Symphony of Jewels, op. 1,” published by The Vendome Press and Thames & Hudson, that September. It features 100 pieces from her illustrious body of work. In 2013, she broke and still holds the world auction record for the highest price paid for a contemporary jewelry designer (Christie’s Magnificent Jewels, Geneva). Anna is recognized for her artistic and technical innovation and has received awards both nationally and internationally. www.anna-hu.com

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

15


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

16

All photos courtesy of ANNA HU Š ANNA HU


PI C C H I OT T I The Début Picchiotti Watch

This year marks the launch of an extraordinary premiere piece that has required eleven months of exceptional concentration, efforts and dedication: “The Debut Picchiotti Watch”, a mesmerizing white-gold jeweled timepiece that is the ultimate manifestation of Picchiotti versatility and ability to create exceptional pieces. The unveiling of the 2015 Picchiotti Collection took place, as usual, at Baselworld, the pre-eminent jewellery & timepiece world event. The impressive dial features two tone mother-of-pearl on a single layer and 12 round diamonds, encircled by a stunning work of 26 flawlessly recut baguettes, 12 emeraldcut diamonds on the side, and 2 pear-shape diamonds that elegantly complete the center piece. The bracelet of this collectable luxury watch is entirely made of two external rows of emerald-cut diamonds, and a double line of impressive marquise diamonds that have been personally selected by the Master Giuseppe Picchiotti to ensure that only the finest stones available are used. The déployante clasp is the finishing touch of this unique masterpiece. “The incredible commitment and enthusiasm that went into the creation of our first watch reflects the passion that has been guiding my family, all the Picchiotti staff and myself over the years to pursue the unmistakable uniqueness that distinguishes Picchiotti apart from other brands” said Mr. Picchiotti and added “It is the starting point for the creation of a Watch Collection that will serve the desires of all the most sophisticated and demanding audience”. www.picchiotti.it

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

17


Photo courtesy of PICCHIOTTI © PICCHIOTTI

Photo courtesy of PICCHIOTTI © PICCHIOTTI

OUR NEWS

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

18


G UM U C H I A N The Ice Cream Rings

Inspired by the Belgian Waffles of her childhood, Patricia Gumuchian pays homage to her home country with these four deliciously whimsical rings. “Being from Belgium (where waffles are from) we loved to eat ice cream in the summer. But it couldn’t just be any ice cream on any cone. It had to be really good ice cream on a hand crafted waffle cone. These rings are made with just as much attention to beauty and detail, but the best part is, you can indulge in these goodies without worrying about the calories!” The Ice Cream Collection is carefully “churned” and “scooped” in our atelier in the heart of New York City. The collection uses a variety of rare gemstones to represent the four most popular ice cream flavors: Vanilla features a cacholong center with diamond accents, chocolate is made up of an obsidian center with cognac diamond accents, strawberry combines a rhodochrosite center with pink sapphire accents, and the pistachio comprises a chrysoprase center with tsavorite accents. All are crafted in Gumuchian’s traditional 18K gold. Rings from The Ice Cream Collection - MSRP starts at $4,400. Gumuchian is a gem of a jewelry collection that’s treasured by the cognoscenti who can spot true European craftsmanship and superior design a mile away. Owned and operated with meticulous attention to quality by Anita Gumuchian and daughters Myriam and Patricia, this boutique company is proud to do it all, from the selection of brilliant diamonds through their family-run offices in Antwerp, to the actual manufacturing in the heart of New York. These three women design every piece of their sparkling collections with an intuitive feel for what modern women of style crave today. Generations of experience combined with pure passion glow through: owning a Gumuchian is owning a piece of art. www.gumuchian.com

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

19


OUR NEWS

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

20


Y E PRE M Exclusive Pop-Up at Harrods Fine Jewellery

Yeprem is delighted to announce the arrival of their new, innovative collection in the Fine Jewellery Room at Harrods from May 2015. Gone with the ordinary; in with the extraordinary. The concept of jewellery has been revived and reinvented. Hand and wrist pieces to fit every contour of your body; necklaces go beyond their conventional style and purpose. With a long history of tradition, a meticulous selection of diamonds and with its unparalleled designs, YEPREM launches a new style of wearing jewellery while retaining classic elegance. A celebrity’s favourite, YEPREM’s clients include Madonna, Jennifer Lopez and Rihanna. The collections includes an array of rings, necklaces, earrings, ear cuffs, ear jackets and hand pieces YEPREM is currently carried in Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus in USA, Tsum in Moscow, Bloomingdale's & Harvey Nichol's Dubai and many other fine retailers around the world. www.yepremjewellery.com

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

21


Photo courtesy of YEPREM © YEPREM

OUR NEWS

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

22


INTRODUCING


DJU L A 48° 51′ 24.12″ N / 2° 21′ 2.88″ E

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

24


DJUL A Djula is clearly recognized as one as the most famous, in�demand jewelry brands in Europe with an emphasis on fashionable yet timeless design. Their hand�crafted collections exude a delicate, seductive originality that drapes modern women in French elegance.

25


In 1994; Alexandre Corrot launched his jewelry line, Djula. He opened his first store, featuring modern, geometric designs in the heart of Paris’ famously chic Latin Quarter. By 2004, Alexandre Corrot had become renowned within Paris’ exclusive community of luxury retailers. His collections expanded to feature diamonds and precious stones set against white, yellow, rose or black gold, quickly becoming “must haves” on the Paris scene. Every year, he designs and creates more than 200 pieces in his Parisian Atelier including rings and bracelets, necklaces and earrings. Djula’s catalog is a rich variety of gold, precious and semi‐precious jewelry pieces. Today, Djula is clearly recognized as one as the most famous, in‐demand jewelry brands in Europe with an emphasis on fashionable yet timeless design. His hand‐crafted collections exude a delicate, seductive originality that drapes modern women in French elegance. As one of Europe’s leading jewelry designers, Corrot has a keen eye for blending art and design, and continues to evolve his aesthetic by drawing from artists, fashion designers, painters and photographers around him. His collections were initially heavily inspired by the early 20th century, with strong nods to the “Roaring Twenties” and Art Deco period. Corrot took his inspiration still further, reinventing fashion jewelry with bold introductions of black gold, geometric patterns, lace and delicately intricate details. With a foundation in expert craftsmanship and luxury materials, this poetic study of contrasts; between soft and strong, geometric and flowing; form the trademarks of Djula’s distinctive “opposite attracts” style.

Photo courtesy of DJULA © DJULA

His hand-crafted collections exude a delicate, seductive originality that drapes modern women in French elegance.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

26


27

Photo courtesy of DJULA © DJULA


Season after season, Corrot refines and enriches his portfolio, reinterpreting and rediscovering his essential collections with a single creative goal: to create a piece of wearable fashion that women want to accessorize with each and every day. Bold and elegant, the Djula woman is independent with a multifaceted personality. She chooses fashion as an expression of herself, and she wears Djula jewelry pieces to reflect her sensitivity and refinement. Whether encircling her finger or draped on her wrist, for her Djula jewelry is sensual, seductive and tells a story of love at first sight. She is selective and distinct, and her dream pieces are at once timeless, stylish and unique.

DJULA’S COLLECTIONS : CHIC AND URBAN Corrot’s creations are light and geometric, remarkably distinct and represent a new statement in luxury. His gold pieces are delicately crafted with meticulous precision, paying attention to select only the most exquisite diamonds and colorful semi‐precious stones. Bejeweled second skin Djula’s jewelry quickly becomes a part of you. The collection’s bracelets and rings feature a featherlight, delicate lace pattern that sits so effortlessly on the skin you’d swear it was body art. Such exquisite detail is the signature style that defines Corrot’s pieces. Interlocking possibilities Djula fine jewelry is designed to seamlessly interlock, yielding multiple possibilities for expression. The collections feature a countless number of stackable rings with brilliant diamonds set in rose, yellow, white or black gold. Bracelets and necklaces come in a series of geometrical and stackable shapes. The Djula woman can easily match her jewelry to the moment and the mood. Eternal diamonds Nothing compares to a diamond; and that is precisely why Corrot uses them extensively. He chooses the ones with the most sparkle to create contemporary pieces that can be worn daily.

Photo courtesy of DJULA © DJULA

Season after season, Corrot refines and enriches his portfolio, reinterpreting and rediscovering his essential collections.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

28


Photo courtesy of DJULA © DJULA

An amazing color palette Addicted to color, Corrot works with a wide range of precious and semi‐precious stones: pink quartz, agates, amethysts, turquoise, chalcedonies... and exquisite gems such as lapis‐ lazuli, chrysoprases, and golden rutile. “Snake”: a glamorous and vibrant collection The newest collection takes its inspiration from the 70s with minimalist pieces that include rings and bracelets that drape around fingers and wrists. These latest creations revisit vintage elegance while adding a special modern touch.

heart, cross, star) all encrusted in diamonds. Easy to wear and the perfect gift, these lightweight chains and rings are like a second skin, playfully inviting you to mix and match as many as you like. You simply can’t help falling in love. Lace This very couture collection has its roots in the Twenties. Graceful threads of gold, rose, white or bicolor gold (white and yellow) are ornamented with diamonds. Made by hand, these openwork series are real gems and the perfect contemporary jewelry. Vintage

There is vibrant energy to the “Snake” collection. Rings are provocative, wrapping around the finger with diamonds and colored stones. Bracelets and necklaces showcase a filigree core within an ultrafine weave of diamonds; a signature style typical to Djula’s unique design.

A small vintage‐inspired collection, with pieces inlaid with diamonds; it is the definition of chic and delicate. Rings form in a knot, ribbon or leaf. The meticulous craftsmanship shows off Djula’s expertise.

The “MUST HAVE” PIECES Precious minimalist jewelry or second skin jewelry Windsor, God Blue, Sweet Hearts, Passion; the names of the new vibrant collection. Each represents a step along the spectrum, adorned with a delicate motif or symbol (butterfly,

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

29


30

Photo courtesy of DJULA © DJULA


Photo courtesy of DJULA Š DJULA

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

31


Photo courtesy of DJULA Š DJULA

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

32


33

Photo courtesy of DJULA © DJULA


Photo courtesy of DJULA Š DJULA

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

34


35

Photo courtesy of DJULA © DJULA


Photo courtesy of DJULA Š DJULA

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

36


Photo courtesy of DJULA Š DJULA

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

37


Photo courtesy of DJULA Š DJULA

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

38


COVER STORY


M AGE R I T 40° 23′ 0″ N / 3° 43′ 0″ W

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

40


Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT

M AG E RIT Since 1994, MAGERIT in making top-quality artisanal jewellery. From creating bespoke personal designs to highly original and refreshing pieces, Magerit’s foremost objective is to breathe new life into the traditional jewellery industry. At the Jewellery Historian we fell immediately in love with the collections & work of Magerit and we are proud to showcase them in this issue. The work of Magerit is not only amazing and of exceptional quality but it represents at the best form what we consider fine jewellery to be.

41


Photo courtesy of MAGERIT © MAGERIT

Born from the impulse to bring freshness and new ideas to the world of jewellery; Magerit is new in terms of ideas and creativity, though by no means new regarding experience in the world of jewellery.

Magerit is a Spanish company, with headquarters in Madrid, created in 1994 made up of professionals with a wealth of experience in the field of fine jewellery who have brought together all of their know-how, to give shape to a project which is distinguished both, by its high degree of creativity and originality, and by the exquisite finish of the pieces. Born from the impulse to bring freshness and new ideas to the world of jewellery; Magerit is new in terms of ideas and creativity, though by no means new regarding experience in the world of jewellery. When founded in 1994, it was important to the creators to embrace the essence of Spanish culture. The headquarters were established in the heart of Spain, and even the company’s name, Magerit, an ancient name for the thriving city of Madrid, reflects this. Like the meaning behind the name, ‘place of many streams’, Magerit draws inspiration from many cultures and different regions to create exquisite pieces of art, which are as unique as the people who wear them. Magerit takes pride in making top-quality artisanal jewellery. From creating bespoke personal designs to highly original and refreshing pieces, Magerit’s foremost objective is to breathe new life into the traditional jewellery industry. With the increasing global outreach, the company displays its collections in many top jewellery exhibitions, and has developed strong roots both domestically and within the international market. Magerit has built a reputation of uncompromising commitment to providing its customers with jewellery of utmost quality and uniqueness. Strong internal culture and collaboration between employees helps effectively oversee the process of product development and ensure strict quality control.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

42


Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT

Magerit has built a reputation of uncompromising commitment to providing its customers with jewellery of utmost quality and uniqueness.

Magerit has used the unlimited ingenuity and the savoir-faire of its jewelers to the fullest to develop its own distinctive and characterised style of portraying the aesthetic appeal of natural and historic motifs within its collections. The original artisanal skills of craftsmen combined with modern technologies enable the creation of jewels which encompass both novelty and personality. An important attribute of Magerit jewels is their serial number, which is engraved on individual pieces and which guarantees their exclusive nature as a unique, hand-crafted item. Distinguishing design and superior quality are Magerit products’ main features which differentiate the brand from other jewellery producers in the industry.

Leyenda The constant search for new and original sources of inspiration, led Magerit design team to create a collection where fantasy serves art, resulting in a unique and special world in which dreams and reality co-exist in perfect harmony. In this invented world, a strong, brave, intelligent and confident woman lives, capable of facing any challenge without renouncing her feminine and sensitive side. Dragons and mythological animals, together with other ornamental elements, offer a touch of exoticism to this fantastic world, giving it force and energy. Unique designs filled with innovative and daring details make Leyenda, a one-of-a-kind collection, that is filled with magic.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

43


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

44

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

45

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

46

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

47

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

48

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Photo courtesy of MAGERIT © MAGERIT

Wild Spirit The beauty, nobility, elegance and resilient character transmitted by the horse have been a source of inspiration for the design team at Magerit in the creation of this exclusive collection in which fine sculpting and precious jewellery-making melt seamlessly into one. To capture these animals’ beauty and power, they are recreated in their most savage and authentic state : galloping freely, their manes kissed by the wind. The result is jewellery that is both full of life and realism. The name of the collection holds a double meaning. In a way “Wild Spirit” also represents the philosophy of a team which has been proving its innovative spirit and noteworthy character for years, daring to create unique and special designs which are able to convey an exclusive, unparalleled notion in the jewellery world. The collection is made up of a necklace, bracelet, ring and matching earrings - all coming together under the common denominator of artistic style and carefully handcrafted pieces, as can be seen in the faces of the horses, which display intricate details such as the tension of their jaws, the intensity of their glance or the sway of their long manes. Black rhodium is an exceptional player in this collection, giving it a unique contrast of colours between the two horses figures."

49


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

50

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT © MAGERIT

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT © MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

51

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT © MAGERIT

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT © MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

52

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

53

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

54

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Photo courtesy of MAGERIT © MAGERIT

Versailles Versailles" is a sophisticated, breath-taking collection which draws its inspiration from the artistic period heralded by Louis XIV. In this collection, pieces which are both refined and eye- catching have been forged to evoke the harmony and “joie de vivre” associated with the era. Each piece in the “Versailles Collection” reflects the customs and lifestyle of this glorious age. The distinctive setting and the unique figures of Louis XIV’s Court are recreated in all of their splendor, including such themes as: the establishment of an absolute monarch to maintain image and status as the central arbiter of power and the depiction of the Versailles Palace as a haven of luxury whose architecture and décor served as a symbol of monarchic glory. The collection is, thus, pervaded by symbols and iconography of the Sun King. One example includes a piece crafted in yellow gold which features the head of Apollo, the "God of gods", shrouded in rays of light to represent absolute power, along with the ornate engravings that permeate all the pieces of the collection with genuine prestige. The latticework and harmonious colors which are hallmarks of the gardens at Versailles are also present in the collection, represented through a collage-like arrangement of semi-precious stones and the exquisite interlacing of white and yellow gold. The majestic Fountains of Versailles are another theme in the

55


new collection which are brought to life in glorious detail. Fish forms, with each scale carved individually by hand, and cascades of brilliant diamonds imitating the water spouting from their mouths, contrast with the variegated presence of elaborately-crafted human figures. This is apparent in the "Couple" ring, crowned by a lavish amethyst gem, and in the collection's flagship piece: a necklace featuring the figure of a woman draped in peacock feathers, rendered in 18-karat white gold and studded with white and green diamonds and sapphires to create a dazzling effect. Cherubim, which adorn the fountains at Versailles as part of several scenes from the myth of Apollo, are also depicted in the collection in white and yellow gold, contrasting with natural elements that accentuate the flair and elegance of the collection’s pieces. True to our personal, innovative and creative style, which seeks to mark the difference from classic jewellery, the pieces of the "Versailles Collection" have been instilled with a strong sense of realism. Each detail has been painstakingly crafted using the finest goldsmithing techniques to turn the pieces into miniature works of art in which an assortment of intricacies can be perceived, including human figures and traits; fish, their scales and the water flowing from their mouths, and the texture of birds' feathers, amongst others.

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT

All this comes together to fashion what is undoubtedly one of Magerit’s most spectacular collections.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

56


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

57 Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

58

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

59

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

60

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

61

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

62

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

63

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

64

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

65

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

66

Photo courtesy of MAGERIT Š MAGERIT


INTERVIEW 5

UNTITLED


MANJU KOTHARI

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

68


M A NJ U KOTH AR I

Mrs. Manju Kothari, Creative Director of Entice, is a talented and creative Indian woman with astute business acumen along with sensitivity towards aesthetics. Traditional at heart, she truly personifies Indian values and culture to the core and at the same time enjoys the lifestyle of a modern woman. Having jewelry as an inherited character, daughter of the famed traditional jewellers of Jaipur- Surana’s, Mrs. Manju Kothari married into the equally famous Kothari lineage to Mr. Sanjay Kothari. From in between the traditional kundan meena jewellery, fine art, classical music, post marriage Manju Kothari moved to Hong Kong to explore a new world of jewellery which was more contemporary, classic and high on craftsmanship. Having completed her schooling from the Maharani Gayatri Devi School, Jaipur, Mrs. Kothari had an extensive flair towards design and creativity, which inclined her to pursue the Jewellery Design course from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA); followed by customized and well-selected design courses, which boosted her profession to stupendous heights. Entice was formed in the year 2004 after it began as a customized one-off piece which deservedly got appreciation internationally. An apt name for the impression this jewellery created in the hearts of its admirers. Heading design and product development at Entice Hong Kong, Manju Kothari leads a team of talented designers. The inheritance of art and finesse gives her the ability to visualize and design jewellery, enriching it with a perfect balance of Indian philosophies

and contemporary outlook. A classic & elegant beauty, her jewellery reflects her own personality. Entice, since its inception, has evolved showcasing captivating designs by cultivating a contemporary touch. Mrs. Kothari believes in the strong values of KGK group along with those of Entice and therefore takes pride in presenting jewels as forms of art. With an identifiable start in Hong Kong, China and now in India, she dreams of opening more boutiques across the world and moves towards her goal with an open mind towards art and design, ready to adapt to changing lifestyles of the admirers of her creations. ‘You don’t have to see a lot of paintings, to be a painter’ quotes Mrs. Kothari, who understands jewellery as a part of her life. “Any form of art is a manifestation of creativity from within. My vision is to design timeless, classic jewellery pieces, which are sublime and inimitable creations with stunning diamonds. This unparalleled selection has been designed to suit all ages, times and occasions. The comfort and finesse of Entice jewellery is like an addiction as it enhances the overall experience of wearing jewellery. I am aiming high for Entice, looking for more prosperity and ready to take on all challenges that come my way” she states. Mrs. Kothari always had an eye for aesthetics, artifacts and is an avid collector of art herself. She finds beauty of the simplest of things around her inspiring enough to create the most magnificent pieces of jewels for the learned and welltraveled woman of today.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

69


70 Photo courtesy of ENTICE © ENTICE


Photo courtesy of ENTICE Š ENTICE

I started by redesigning a solitaire engagement ring for a friend of mine. She found the ring boring as she had been wearing the same ring for 25 years then.

Tell us about yourself, including what you do and how you got there. With jewellery, music and fine art embedded in my soul since childhood, I grew up in the famed traditional jewellers of Jaipur- Surana’s, and got married into the equally famous Kothari lineage to Sanjay Kothari. Jewellery has been a part of my life since ever and with our move to Hong Kong, I was exposed to a contemporary world of jewellery. Post marriage, it was my father-in-law, Mr. Navrattan Kothari, who noticed my interest in art and design. Though the group at that time was doing commercial jewellery, but he would usually take my advice on exceptional pieces and would value my opinion. With this started my gradual involvement in the jewellery business of KGK. The brand Entice began as a customized one-off piece, which deservedly got appreciation internationally. An apt name for the impression this jewellery created in the hearts of its admirers. Heading design and product development at Entice Hong Kong, I lead a team of talented international designers as the Creative Director of Entice. How did you decided to be a jewellery designer? Being a jewellery designer came very naturally to me. Formal education always adds on to one’s talent and therefore, even way before Entice came into existence I had done the Jewellery Design Certified course from GIA, just out of interest. I have also done various small term design related courses to enhance my talent. What was the motivation / inspiration for your very first collection? I started by re-designing a solitaire engagement ring for a friend of mine. She found the ring boring as she had been wearing the same ring for 25 years then. My inspiration was to keep the sanctity of an engagement ring as well as give her something fresh and pretty

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

71


looking yet classic for everyday wear. She was delighted with the resultant ring and since then there has been no looking back. From one friend to the other, from rings to solitaire strings to ear studs, I have refreshed the jewellery collections of most of my friends. The encouraging responses to my work made us consider making our own jewellery line- classic but with a twist and thus, came Entice.

As KGK is a strong player in the diamonds and gems industry, there are times that we come across unique diamonds and gemstones. Then we work around the stone and try our best to make it the hero of the final jewellery piece.

What do you like most about being a jewelry designer? I get to play with these oh-so-gorgeous coloured gemstones and diamonds. Where do you get your inspiration? Entice, since its inception, has evolved showcasing captivating designs by cultivating a contemporary touch. Entice is heralding a new era of jewellery design and retail, inspired from our traditional heritage roots, where designs meet the growing demand for international aesthetics and at the same time make a bold statement about India’s style leadership on the world stage. Themes like Art deco, Classic and nature inspire us mostly, but we also specialize in customized pieces according to the client or the gemstones at hand. As KGK is a strong player in the diamonds and gems industry, there are times that we come across unique diamonds and gemstones. Then we work around the stone and try our best to make it the hero of the final jewellery piece.

Photo courtesy of ENTICE Š ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

72


Diamonds are my favorite materials and especially colored and fancy shaped diamonds. They have a unique sparkle to them and the fact that they are the most precious attracts me to them.

What is your favorite piece you’ve ever created – and what made it so special? The first engagement ring that I re-designed would certainly always be special to me as it resulted in creation of ‘Entice’. Tell us about your design style. What makes your collections unique in the industry? ‘Classic’ and ‘Elegant’ are two words that rule my design language. The pieces that I design are most high value and are important jewels which would be passed down generations and therefore, I try and keep them as classy as possible so that it compliments the personality of most women. Our diamond and coloured gemstones quality and the finesse in the craftsmanship is what makes our collections unique. Each piece, however, big or small it may be is designed and manufactured with the same love and care that we would put in large pieces. Which is the artistic or historical period you consider a great source of inspiration. I feel Art Deco & Art Nouveau were one of most inspiring art periods ever. The forms and transitions were beautiful. They compliment as well as contrast each other very well and suit jewellery very well. Which are your favorite materials? Which materials and techniques your favor ? Diamonds are my favorite materials and especially colored and fancy shaped diamonds. They have a unique sparkle to them and the fact that they are the most precious attracts me to them. On the flip side, they is nothing like a deep colored emerald or a pigeon blood red ruby. The gorgeous yumminess of the colored stones is always an eye catcher and that is why we use a lot of substantial sized colored gemstones in our jewellery. Which material you believe that you will never stop using in your collections? Diamonds! No jewellery piece is ever complete without the shimmery touch of diamonds. Could you please tell us about your latest collection? This year was our 10th year of showcasing Entice at Baselworld- The Watch & Jewellery Show. And, to celebrate that we showcased what we do best- fine diamond jewellery but added a glamorous touch with yellow diamonds and hints of precious gemstones like emeralds, rubies and blue sapphires. The collection consisted of breathtaking necklaces exuding grandeur, flexible white and yellow gold bracelets studded with white and yellow diamonds in beautiful geometrical patterns, long diamond earrings with intricate detailing, spectacular emerald ring, exquisite combinations of different unique shapes of diamonds like pear, round, rose cut, baguette etc. set in white and yellow gold complimenting the unique designs. Which piece of jewellery every person should wear? I would say a pair of solitaire ear studs is a must in every woman’s jewellery box.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

73


Do you believe that a man should wear jewellery? If you can carry if off with flair, wear it! Just don’t over-do it. Are men more open-minded about wearing jewellery than they used to be?

With changing times and the acceptance of the concept of metrosexual men, jewellery is back in the wardrobe of men. From cufflinks to brooches for corporates and kalgi’s and beaded strings for Indian weddings, men are experimenting with all.

The Mughal & Rajputana kings were one of the most bejewelled kings, the world would ever see. But yes, with changing times and the acceptance of the concept of metrosexual men, jewellery is back in the wardrobe of men. From cufflinks to brooches for corporates and kalgi’s (turban ornament) and beaded strings for Indian weddings, men are experimenting with all. Do you think that there is a relation between fashion and jewellery design? They are like sisters who cannot live without each other. They are both part of this mammoth adornment industry and they are nothing without each other. Same trends affect both the fashion and jewellery industry. To exist they have to compliment each other in terms of silhouettes, colours and materials.

Photo courtesy of ENTICE © ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

74


Photo courtesy of ENTICE © ENTICE

Design with your heart and it will reflect you personality and style. How each person is unique, your jewellery would also be unique.

How do you define luxury? Luxury for me is interconnected with quality and finesse. Many associate it with price but for me it is the rarity and exclusivity that makes it luxury. What according to you contributed to your success? Being from the Surana lineage, I have always been around the finest and seen the best. This has developed my eye for aesthetics since the beginning. My father, Mr. Prakash Surana had a keen interest in art and with him began my journey of collecting beautiful objects. He played a great role in nurturing my creativity. His passion for beauty, art and music has got passed on to me as well. With his guidance, I developed my eye for aesthetics. It is also the faith and trust of the Kothari family and especially of my husband, in my work that motivated me to take risks and make innovative jewellery pieces. What kind of person wears your jewelry? Entice caters to the modern woman of India who is well read, travelled and educated. They have seen the best and want the best for themselves. They appreciate fine craftsmanship and quality in gemstones as well as over all pieces. Fine details and quality can become an addiction and that’s what we offer to our customers. Once they wear Entice jewellery, they come back to us for their next purchase, as now spoilt with finesse, they can’t settle for less.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

75


All photos are courtesy of ENTICE © ENTICE

My father, Mr. Prakash Surana had a keen interest in art and with him began my journey of collecting beautiful objects. He played a great role in nurturing my creativity. His passion for beauty, art and music has got passed on to me as well. With his guidance, I developed my eye for aesthetics.

What’s it like to see someone on the street wearing one of your creations? It is a very satisfying feeling that my piece of jewellery has begun its own journey. Every piece of jewellery has a story of its own, beginning from the design table to passing through the manufacturing tools. But, the most interesting phase is when the piece is bought marking a special occasion in the wearer’s life like a birthday, anniversary or a wedding. From there the jewel becomes a part of the clients memory and that is one of the best feel-good factor for me as a designer. The most valuable lesson you have learned until today? ‘Change is the most constant thing in life.’ Your favorite motto? ‘You don’t have to see a lot of paintings, to be a painter’ Which is your advice to young and aspiring jewellery designers? Always design what you would love to wear and that ways your jewellery piece already has its first customer in you. Don’t design just to fill showcases. Design with your heart and it will reflect you personality and style. How each person is unique, your jewellery would also be unique.

We would like to thanks Mrs. Kothari for this interview.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

76


A NEW MUST


MA R K I N 55° 45′ 0″ N / 37° 37′ 0″ E

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

78


Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN

M A R KI N MARKIN Fine Jewellery was established in 2011 in Moscow, where the workshop and showroom were opened in the heart of the city. Since then, the brand has opened an office, showroom and workshop in Hong Kong, now the international headquarters, and established a further presence in London and Singapore.

In order to highlight the basic philosophy of the brand, MARKIN does not hide the workflow or mechanisms; on the contrary, it poeticizes them. MARKIN makes high-tech jewellery of exceptional beauty and quality; therefore, it is important to focus on the essentials, without distraction.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

79


MARKIN Fine Jewellery was established in 2011 in Moscow, where the workshop and showroom were opened in the heart of the city. Since then, the brand has opened an office in Hong Kong, now the international headquarters, and established a further presence in London and Singapore. In order to highlight the basic philosophy of the brand, MARKIN does not hide the workflow or mechanisms; on the contrary, it poeticizes them. MARKIN makes high- tech jewellery of exceptional beauty and quality; therefore, it is important to focus on the essentials, without distraction. For those who are used to have things under control, for good and bad. By rotating this ring’s mechanism you can regulate the intensity of diamonds’ shine, concealing a part of them or revealing them all, if the occasion requires to stand out. Aperture Ring provokes to adjust the vividness of diamonds and the depth of focus of emotional effect with the rotation of the imbuilt mechanism. The central diamond is 1 carat supported by 82 white diamonds.

Photo courtesy of MARKIN © MARKIN

Aperture Ring allows to adjust the vividness of diamonds and the depth of focus of emotional effect with the rotation of the imbuilt mechanism.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

80


Photo courtesy of MARKIN © MARKIN

Though these cufflinks resemble microchips as if they were real, actually they are made of gold and sapphires.

Among all the fundamental laws of physics, the law of conservation of energy clearly stands out bringing an unexpected meaning to the world around us with all its ups and downs. Nothing is created from the scratch and nothing vanishes leaving no trace. Everything had always existed, exists and shall exist. Inside of us and all around. It’s a neverending metamorphosis. And mechanics in jewellery is a great example of it. Every jewel is a source, every time you touch it you receive a portion of transforming energy through every hidden mechanism that is just an excuse to give a new meaning to your look. In the daylight or under the moonshine, for routines or celebrations it will give you the momentum you need to feel renewed. Always wanted to know how computers work? We’re really sorry but this time you won’t get the answer either. Though these cufflinks resemble microchips as if they were real, actually they are made of gold and sapphires. Touch their surface and reveal plenty of black diamonds inside! (photo in this page)

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

81


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

82

Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN


Mechanical Pebble Stones necklace seems to be made of real stones found on the sea shore. Even when you touch it you cant recognize that every part of the necklace is golden. 18K white gold is plated by special solution. The appearence of three central stones may be changed according to your mood and situation.

Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN

They look natural and feel pleasantly rough-like on your skin. But actually, these pebbles are precious, made of 18k white gold. Besides, if you open them for a special occasion they will shine for you from within with diamonds or sapphires.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

83


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

84 Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN


Photo courtesy of MARKIN © MARKIN

Flaunting the same elegant curves that their closest relative, the Arch Bridge ring, as well as diamonds and white gold, these earrings, however, convey a slightly more baroque, thus sophisticated feeling.

Along with steam engines and railroads, the bridges, already known for centuries, but given a new life, dramatically transformed the medieval landscape and threw the society into a new industrialized era we still live in. But what’s the philosophy behind bridges as gems of engineering? Regardless of their shape and extension they have always allowed us to bring together two points in space and time that, otherwise, wouldn’t ever have any chance to meet. Have a closer look at our precious bridges. Probably one of them will be a fast track for you to connect with the most distant realms of your personality and help you discover new continents you’ve had no idea about.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

85


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

86

Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN


Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN

A modern interpretation of Nordic Art Nouveau, an architectural and decorative style of the early 20th century in Scandinavia and Northern Russia. Cosy and inviting. Grab a blanket and your favorite book and enjoy a pleasant cup of evening tea.

87


Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN

The diamond can travel, like a lift, across its structure sometimes hiding behind the girders and sometimes showing itself in all its splendor.

The work of Alexandre Gustave Eiffe inspired Vladimir Markin in making this unique ring. One of the architectural breakthroughs of the 19th century moulded in gold with maximum attention to details. The diamond can travel, like a lift, across its structure sometimes hiding behind the girders and sometimes showing itself in all its splendor. Once more, Markin transforms mechanics into a unique piece of jewellery, showing at the best possible way how much the industrial world has influenced our every day life. With a passion of mechanics, Markin shows to the world the hidden beauty of physics and applies them into museum quality pieces of jewellery. Each piece is perfectly designed for women who love unique pieces and for the man who is not afraid to show his passions.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

88


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

89

Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN


90

Photo courtesy of MARKIN © MARKIN


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

91 Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

92

Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

93

Photo courtesy of MARKIN © MARKIN

Photo courtesy of MARKIN © MARKIN


Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

94 Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN


ESTHĂˆTE

Une personne qui considère l'art comme une valeur essentielle


Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO

E STH È T E

An amazing ring by Palmiero

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

96


BREATHTAKING GEMS

By Eva Kountouraki


BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Photo courtesy of OMI GEMS © OMI GEMS

ALEXANDRITE

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

98


Photo courtesy of OMI PRIVÉ © OMI PRIVÉ

[Photo in Public domain]

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Portrait of Czar Alexander II

ALEXANDRITE Tradespeople often call it “emerald by day – ruby by night” during sales, in order to emphasize its dual nature, referring to its exceptional ability to change colours depending on the type of light we shine on it. Of course, every gemstone connoisseur must have understood that the gem described above is the rare –yet famous- Alexandrite. Alexandrite is a beautiful variety of the mineral species Chrysoberyl, which exhibits the “color-change” phenomenon. The secret behind this extraordinary look lies in the chemistry and structure of this particular variety. Compared to other equally important gemstones like ruby and emerald, alexandrite is a relatively recent gem, as it was discovered in the 1800’s. Still, it is considered to be a real treasure, es-

pecially when of high quality, as it is very scarce and found in very limited quantities. The first source of Alexandrite was the Ural Mountain area in Russia where it was discovered in 1834. Awed by the uniqueness of its appearance that comprises both the red and green colours of the old imperial Russia, the finders chose its name in honour of Czar Alexander II who, as it is said, was celebrating his coming of age on that same day of the gem’s discovery. The production of fine Alexandrites from Russia was never plentiful and the prices of the fine specimens always remained very high. When the Russian mines were almost ex-

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

99


BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Alexandrite is a beautiful variety of the mineral species Chrysoberyl, which exhibits the “color-change” phenomenon. The secret behind this extraordinary look lies in the chemistry and structure of

Photo courtesy of OMI PRIVÉ © OMI PRIVÉ

this particular variety.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

100


Photo courtesy of OMI GEMS © OMI GEMS

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Photo courtesy of OMI PRIVÉ © OMI PRIVÉ

hausted, new findings in Minas Gerais, Brazil, about thirty years ago, sparked the market and revived the interest in this mysterious gem. Since then, more sources have been discovered, including Tanzania, Sri Lanka and India, among others, but the alexandrites found in those mines do not - yet - match the beauty and intensity of the original Russian material, or they were occasional and in some cases almost single findings. A very interesting and even rarer type of Alexandrite is the one that exhibits two different phenomena, that is, both color change and chatoyancy. These cat’s eye Alexandrites have not been encountered in the traditional Russian sources but were the incredible surprise hidden inside the Sri Lankan ground.. In the extreme case when both phenomena are distinct and intense the gems become a true priceless treasure. As mentioned above, Alexandrite is a variety of the species Chrysoberyl that includes other varieties as well, some equally famous like the Cat’s eye Chrysoberyl, and some less known to the vast public like the simple, non-phenomenal yellow Chrysoberyl. The mineral itself is found in various deposits around the world, but in order for the Alexandrite variety to form, it takes special geologic conditions together with the presence of incompatible and rare chemical elements with continuity in the same time and space.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

101


BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Alexandrite is a stone that represents duality in the most fascinating way. This has been interpreted in various ways depending on the cultural differences of the people. It reminds us of our fast traveling thoughts and our often frivolous minds that however hide an irresistible charm. It is a powerful gem with ever-changing colours and a double character that can attract and enchant even the most unsuspected viewer.

Photo courtesy of OMI GEMS Š OMI GEMS

The first source of Alexandrite was the Ural Mountain area in Russia where it was discovered in 1834. Awed by the uniqueness of its appearance that comprises both the red and green colours of the old imperial Russia, the finders chose its name in honour of Czar Alexander II who, as it is said, was celebrating his coming of age on that same day of the gem’s discovery.

Most Alexandrites found in the mines around the world are of low saturation and the colours are strongly brownish and grayish. Those gems are still charming, especially when they are relatively free from eye-visible clarity characteristics, due to the rarity of the material; however, the fine alexandrites that exhibit a sharp colour change between fiery purplish red and cool bluish green hues are breathtaking and so unique that make the viewers feel lucky to have set their eyes on them.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

102


Eva Kountouraki

Eva was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field. She started her first collection of polished and rough gemstones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession in the future. After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her studies. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design.

Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever accomplished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones. Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jewelry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies, advising and helping her clients to make successful purchases and investments in gemstones. She also organizes and teaches seminars for the training of gemstone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gempassionates. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

103


Photo courtesy of OMI PRIVÉ © OMI PRIVÉ

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

104


OUR FAVES

In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. In this issue we invite you to find the perfect bridal jewellery for this very special moment.


OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

106


OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

107


OUR FAVES

ZOLOTAS MARKIN

SYLVIE CORBELIN

DJULA

PASQUALE BRUNI

KULMALA

LE VIAN

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

108


OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

109


OUR FAVES

MORPHÉE BAYCO

NIKOS KOULIS

OMI PRIVÉ

GUCCI

MATHON ZOLOTAS

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

110


OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

111


OUR FAVES

INEDIT JOAILLIER

ZOLOTAS

MAURO FELTER

KULMALA

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

112


OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

113


OUR FAVES

ROBERT WAN

MATHON

GARRARD

GUMUCHIAN

CARLA AMORIM

ELENA VOTSI

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

114


OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

115


OUR FAVES

MOUSSON ATELIER

OMI PRIVÉ

MAURO FELTER

INEDIT JOAILLIER

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

116


OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

117


OUR FAVES

SETHI COUTURE

SHAWISH

GORALSKA

YEPREM

MARTIN KATZ

MEGHNA

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

118


SPOTLIGHT


E N TICE 22° 16′ 42″ N / 114° 9′ 32″ E

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

120


Photo courtesy of ENTICE © ENTICE

EN T IC E Taking the rich Indian jewellery heritage and enhancing it with a contemporary twist, Entice offers a classical yet contemporary style; boasting an elegant look. With a wide and exotic range of timeless pieces, “Entice” Jewellery embodies elegance and taste in an effortless combination of classical and contemporary influences. Together with an expertise exceeding a century and finest craftsmanship, the fine jewellery brand 'Entice' was launched by KGK group in 2004 in Hong Kong and has today 17 flagship boutiques in Hong Kong, China and India.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

121


With a wide and exotic range of timeless pieces, “Entice” Jewellery embodies elegance and taste in an effortless combination of classical and contemporary influences. Together with an expertise exceeding a century and finest craftsmanship, the fine jewellery brand 'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. The KGK group, established in 1905 by the Kothari family of Jaipur (India), is a global corporation with fully integrated operations in the Gems & Jewellery industry, having presence across 15 countries. A pioneer in the world of precious stones, KGK Group has been sourcing, manufacturing and distributing coloured stones, diamonds and jeweller y for decades. Being a DTC sightholder provides it an easy access to diamonds at most reasonable prices. The strength of KGK is vast, resulting in unmatchable benefits to the end consumer. Following a huge success with boutiques in Hong Kong & China and with an impression that India is now modern by design, KGK launched its first boutique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. Latest addition is an exclusive boutique in Bengaluru, launched in 2014. Entice today has 17 standalone boutiques in Hong Kong, China and India. Entice is heralding a new era of jewellery design and retail, inspired from their traditional heritage roots, where designs meet the growing demand for international aesthetics and at the same time make a bold statement about India’s style leadership on the world stage. Entice jewels are the finest, designed by international designers and handcrafted with a promise of exclusivity, imparting the wearer with a confidence to flaunt a unique piece. Each Entice piece is individually crafted to maintain the luxury status of the brand and meet the highest international standards for gemstones selection and jewellery manufacturing. Entice specializes in making jewellery with rare diamonds procured from mines, as

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

well as painstaking craftsmanship and the insistence that every piece is fashioned as a work of art. Entice prides itself in creating irresistible diamond jewellery with unrivaled flexibility that oozes of finesse and fine craftsmanship. Coalescing intricate designs with detailed workmanship, the brand redefines the meaning of lightweight jewellery. Craftsmanship combined with state-of-the-art technology, along with the innumerable benefits of being part of KGK, Entice offers fine jewellery at incomparable prices where each jewel comes with quality certification to endorse its value. The boutiques create an atmosphere of opulence, appealing to all senses in retail spaces and sending a message of exclusivity along with being contemporary, yet traditional and appealing in equal measures to clientele of all ages. The Entice boutique is perfectly unique, creating a pristine environment for clients to indulge in the luxurious experience of wearing treasures and choosing heirlooms. Be it a fashion show in Paris or a wedding in India, Entice empowers you with an exhilarating experience of capturing eyes and turning heads.

AMRA collection With the literal meaning of “beautiful”, it defines the latest collection launched by Entice. Inspired by God’s finest creation Mother nature, the Amra collection takes motifs from the beauty of nature. Simplified forms of flowers, buds, vines and vegetation adorn the collection, which consists of a gorgeous array of bracelets, pendants and earrings. Amra, is also a tribute to the birth of goddess Annapoorna on the occasion of Akshsya Tritiya, the day believed to bring good luck and success.

In this issue, you can also read the interview of Mrs. Manju Kothari, creative director of Entice.

122


Photo courtesy of ENTICE Š ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

123


Photo courtesy of ENTICE Š ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

124


Photo courtesy of ENTICE Š ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

125


Photo courtesy of ENTICE Š ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

126


Photo courtesy of ENTICE Š ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

127


Photo courtesy of ENTICE Š ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

128


Photo courtesy of ENTICE Š ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

129


Photo courtesy of ENTICE Š ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

130


ADDRESS BOOK


ADDRESS BOOK

ANNA HU www.anna-hu.com

MARKIN www.vladimirmarkin.com

BAYCO www.bayco.com

MARTIN KATZ www.martinkatz.com

CARLA AMORIM www.carlaamorim.com.br

MEGHNA www.meghnajewels.com

PASQUALE BRUNI www.pasqualebruni.com

MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE www.morphee-joaillerie.com

DJULA www.djula.fr

MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru

ELENA VOTSI www.elenavotsi.com

MATHON www.mathon-paris.com

ENTICE www.entice.in

NIKOS KOULIS www.nikoskoulis.gr

MAURO FELTER www.maurofelter.com

OMI GEMS www.omigems.com

GARRARD www.garrard.com

OMI PRIVÉ www.omiprive.com

GORALSKA JOAILLERIE www.goralska.com

PALMIERO www.palmierogioielli.com

GUCCI Timespieces www.guccitimeless.com

PICCHIOTTI www.picchiotti.it

GUMUCHIAN www.gumuchian.com

SETHI COUTURE www.sethicouture.com

INEDIT JOAILLIER www.inedit-joaillier.fr

SHAWISH www.shawish.ch

MARTIN KATZ www.martinkatz.com

SYLVIE CORBELLIN www.sylvie-corbelin.com

KULMALA www.kultaseppakulmala.fi

SHAWISH www.shawish.ch

LE VIAN www.levian.com

ROBERT WAN www.robertwan.com

MAGERIT JOYAS www.mageritjoyas.com

YEPREM www.yepremjewellery.com ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

132


facebook.com/jewelryhistorian instagram.com/jewellery_historian twitter.com/jhmag_official pinterest.com/jhmagazine

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder *** Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Editor-in-Chief *** CONTRIBUTORS Eva Kountouraki Martin Huynh Christina Rodopoulou *** LAY-OUT & DESIGN Jewellery Historian *** www.jewelleryhistorian.com info@jewelleryhistorian.com *** FREE COPY / NOT FOR SALE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2014-2015

*** PUBLISHED & DISTRIBUTED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH HOMO EVOLUTION

All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, neither the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles are the author's & brand’s own and do not reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” and/or logo, may not be reproduced without prior consent. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the company are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages & e-magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.

Chomatianou 26, 10439 Athens, Greece

*** COVER PHOTO Subbotina Anna / Shutterstock.com

Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

133


DESIGNER moments

All photos courtesy of Mauro Felter © Mauro Felter

JEWELLERY DESIGNER MAURO FELTER SHARES WITH US, WHERE HE GETS HIS INSPIRATION & WHAT HE TREASURES MOST IN LIFE.

1 History is for me a great source of inspiration: the valley where I live in Italy is the biggest European site of petroglyphs. 2 Mountains give me a sense of safety. 3 Travels because they give me the possibility to know a multitude of cultures in the world. 4 Food reflects each region or country traditions. 5 Ski, because it makes you realize the majesty of the mountain. I used to be a ski teacher and my passion for snow and other sports never abandoned me. 6 Photography. A shoot can immortalize a significant moment in one person's life or capture particular shapes and colors in nature.  7 My family. They always support my choices in good and in evil. 8 Jewelry because it is the instrument through which I can express myself at best. 9 Venice is in my heart. It  is definitely a unique place in the world and this reflects my one-of-a-kind jewels or custom pieces. 10 Cinema, because it has the capability to transport you, even if for a short time, in different adventures, countries, dimensions and  life stories.

Discover the work of MAURO FELTER at www.maurofelter.com

Jewellery Historian

| June 2015

134


NEXT ISSUE JULY/AUGUST 2015

135

Profile for JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian, issue #11  

Discover issue #11 of the Jewellery Historian, the "Best kept secret" in the world of luxury and a uniquely powerful visual and textual stor...

Jewellery Historian, issue #11  

Discover issue #11 of the Jewellery Historian, the "Best kept secret" in the world of luxury and a uniquely powerful visual and textual stor...