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Mehdi steals Day 1
By Rubia Moghees
ridal Couture Week by Style 360, sponsored by Pantene this year, was a hodgepodge of goods and bads. Loopholes will be there but at the same time the platform proved to be the best mode of expression for seasoned pros like Mehdi and Fahd Hussayn. Hijab of Misbah and Sabah got the nod for coming up with a collection which depicted a mixed image of modern and ethnic. Beginning with the highs of the evening, everyone present at the venue could not but applaud in a spontaneous reaction to a mind-blowing, jaw-dropping performance by an Egyptian young man Hamada; who performed a tanura and danced his heart out on this Sufi-inspired dervish type of dancing. The bridal industry is huge in the country as people like to invest their savings on the wedding of their sons or daughters. This is the one time when the extravagant display of resources are flaunted to no extent, so naturally this has nurtured into a full-fledge industry of sorts in the recent times. 48 I October 23 - 29, 2011
A vibrant Red Carpet hosted by Rehab Dawood, a model from Dubai and Hira Tareen was followed by the first segment of the BCW, which began with the showcasing of Mona Imran’s vibrant collection. It hovered around formals, semi-formals and the timeless trousseau wear. She has been in the business for the past 11 years and her work included interesting angrakhas with churidaar sleeves. The shirts were kept long and flowy (the style is not going away at least for this season) as no one came up with any innovation in short or medium lengths. The models were decked up in flower jewellery and the lehngas and shararas stood out for the use of an eclectic colour scheme. The finale had a bride coming out in a ‘doli’ in the backdrop of ‘chirrayan da chamba’ score; dressed up in magenta, turquoise and fawn lehnga with silver naqsi and zardozi work. The use of rich shades of yellows burnt oranges, fuchsia and shocking pinks was extensively seen by the 2nd entrant; Kosain Kazmi’s collection that somehow failed to
inspire and remained rather monotonous. The farshi lehngas had nothing new to offer as the embellishments were too much to handle. The collection lacked spark and subtlety. Next in the line were the duo Misbah and Saba of ‘Hijab’ fame whose traditional bridal dresses were based on the contemporary silhouettes and an interesting blend of innovative, chic and glamorous that was showcased making it one of my favourite collections of the day. The capris were figure-hugging teamed with ruffles and finishing at the hemlines, the colour, cuts and the drape of the garments was done to perfection. Models wore stunning jewellery provided by the talented Islamabad based designer Ream Abbasi. The saris had plunging necklines with Swarovski detailing. ‘We have used a diverse type of embroideries in our collection besides some aar ka kaam and gota work,’ says the duo. Fahd Hussayn’s collection was complete, encompassing both bride and groom’s wear; traditional mesh with modern coupled with innovative use of classic techniques of gota, crochette and mokesh. The impeccably finished collection for men with embroidered kurtas teamed with jeans sported by ‘chunri’ turbans resulted in signature Fahd Hussayn with emphasis on construction. Waseem Akram walked the beautifully decked up ramp lined with white flowers for ‘Mehdi.’ A seasoned pro he unveiled his bridal collection with a line up of ghararas, shararas, lehngas and Saris with sexy blouses. ‘I want to glamorize the ethnic Pakistani heritage and I prefer using bright colours for my bridal collection with delicate pastels for a variety of choice,’ informs Fahd. Iman Ali Mehdi’s second show stopper wore a cream net based outfit with delicate embroidery done on the front and at the back of the outfit; teamed with a lace dopatta that created a striking effect. There is nothing much to write about the last showing by Gulzeh who tried hard to impress with the use of heavy layered work but without any success. Overall the show was a good effort in terms of media coverage and turn out. It generated hype because of the fact that Lahore had been deprived of events due to the recent spread of dengue. Meesha Shafi who had come back on the ramp after quite some time made a mark along with the likes of Sabeena Pasha, Sunita Marshal and Mehreen Sayeed. Sponsored by Pantene, organized by Style 360, it was choreographed by HSY while the PR was handled by Xenith and the event management was by J&S. October 23 - 29, 2011 I 49
BCW Day 2
By Seher Imran The hits:
Ali Xeeshan’s colour extravaganza, Rabani and Rakha’s black formals, Sadaf Arshad’s saaris, La Chantal’s brides in black, celebrity show stoppers, and HSY’s choreography.
The bare midriff bridal look and frilly hems and gowns seemed to be the popular trend this season. The first round was dominated by colour, flairs and panels. Shaiyanne Malik’s collection with A-line long shirts in triads, contrasting dupattas, and midriff showing cholis was followed by Saira Rizwan’s rich embroidery and traditional appliqué motifs. Sadaf Arshad showed a full range of colour starting with whites and moving on to greens, pinks, reds and purples. Her saaris and traditional gota-work were the most stunning . Shazia maintained the trend of flowy silhouettes, vibrant colours and frill trimmed hemlines. Indian designer duo Rabani and Rakha’s black collection stole the show in semi formals. Their pink Saaris as well as the sheer pants, halter back gowns and shimmery colours were most spectacular. Ali Xeeshan’s show, as usual, was a colour extravaganza with rich luxurious fabrics, thick detailed embroidery, exaggerated kullas for men, and a tongue in cheek choreography showing male models in ghoongat, sharara and chooridars. The choreography put this collection in a different league. The grand entrance and the old matriarch clad in a rich red gharara, added a distinct interpretation to a collection inspired by tradition. Of all the colour and richness of the collection, the white farshi gharara with rich magenta dupatta won the show hands down. Saba of La Chantal showed the most unconventional collection. Her brides in black and her Scarlett O Hara spin on traditional wedding gowns made a statement. The funky off shoulder cholis with pleated harem pants deviated from the predictable.
The Misses: The show started two hours late and most collections were rather predictable. Models in La Chantal’s collection showed bra straps in ill fitted, unironed cholis. Recommendations: Don’t go on time and never leave your seat.
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Ayesha Khan: Creative mind behind Kashf I feel it helps the audience better understand the aspects of Islam and Sufism not readily shown in international media, and to see a Pakistan which doesn’t just consist of bearded terrorists, but one which has deep spiritual traditions steeped in Sufism
ASHF-The Lifting of the Veil’, Pakistan’s first English language feature film in 30 years, is releasing nationwide in Pakistan. The movie revolves around a man, who in order to uphold an oath made to his mother, returns to his homeland after 25 years and embarks on the path of Sufism. The movie focuses on the spiritual dimensions of Islam and attempts to showcase the complexities and myriad sides of Pakistan. Ayesha Khan, the writer and director of KASHF is a New York based filmmaker with a Bachelors degree in Religion and Theatre from Mount Holyoke College, and has been actively directing plays and short films in New York City and London. KASHF is a joint venture of her New York based production house, Indus Valley Productions and Talkingfilmain based in Pakistan. Ayesha Khan talks to Lounge about her roller-coaster ride through the making of KASHF and her extraordinary experiences. • What is the idea behind KASHF? KASHF is a feature film following one man’s journey into Sufism and another’s into Lollywood. We really wanted to see if we could make an independent film in Pakistan using unknown actors and a film crew from NY. • What role does KASHF play in the portrayal of Sufism and cultural values of Islam to the world? I feel it helps the audience better understand the aspects 52 I October 23 - 29, 2011
of Islam and Sufism not readily shown in international media and to see a Pakistan which doesn’t just consist of bearded terrorists, but one which has deep spiritual traditions steeped in Sufism. • What difficulties did you face during the making of KASHF while shooting it in Lahore? I don’t know where to start – well, they started with trying to get visas for our crew and quite frankly never stopped. It was an incredible lesson in resilience where the cast and crew just kept going despite permissions being yanked, our generator breaking down, being chased by policemen…the list is endless. • How was your experience with the cast and crew?
We had tailored the shoot so that I had 2 months rehearsal time with the cast and they were incredibly committed to the process which I think really helped us in the shoot. The NY crew arrived, sporting beards, (yes, they actually did!) but quickly reverted to their normal state once they became comfortable in the environment. But I want to give a particular shout out to our crew from Lollywood – when they realized I was serious, they worked like champions and were fully committed to the process. • What is one unforgettable incident that occurredduring the making of KASHF? There were many but this was certainly the funniest. We were shooting in Evernew Studios, indoors, and I thought the scene looked a little barren and needed some furniture. I told my production designer to arrange for some as soon as possible, while we took a short break. He went next door to Bari Studios to get the furniture. Forty five minutes later we were still waiting, until I impatiently burst out, “Where is the furniture - coming via donkeys?” And just then, on cue, the stage door opened to let in a wizened old man on a donkey cart piled with furniture. You can imagine the reaction that caused, as the crew and cast collapsed on the floor laughing. • KASHF has been screened in UK, USA and different International film festivals, what response did it get from the audiences and media there? Every one of our film festival screenings has been sold out; and very soon after, we started getting booked into Art House theatres as well as universities. I have never attended a screening of the film which isn’t jam-packed. The audience, internationally, at least, loves it as it satisfies a niche, spiritual cinema. I will let the responses of the audience speak for themselves: ‘A huge and impressive accomplishment… a riveting film.” Ali MacGraw ‘The film left me very self reflective on a myriad of levels, such as culture, history, commitments, spirituality… (Audience member)
‘The movie was so beautiful! And really funny – I didn’t expect it to be, but parts of it were hilarious.” (Audience member) ”My thanks go to you for the effective and important work that you are doing on behalf of world peace with ‘Lifting of the Veil’… Lifting of the Veil will surely create a positive precedence.” (Audience member) We get these emails all the time and it’s truly gratifying as some of our audience both in US and internationally has a one-dimensional image of Pakistan and Kashf helps in ridding those stereotypes. • What sort of critical acclaim did the film receive at the Berlin and Cannes Film Festival? We showed clips in Berlin (we were still editing) but got a major film distribution company interested. At Cannes, we got a great response from a film company interested in distribution but they got shut down by their parent company (a lot of film companies shut down in financial crisis). It was disheartening but the audience reaction helped us move on and got us a deal with Spiritual Cinema distribution as their featured film – Kashf showed in 70 countries via them. • What expectations do you have from Pakistani audiences? None and plenty, at the same time. We screened the film at Filums last year at Lums – expected 300 people, 1200 showed up. It was madness. The auditorium I was in, two audience members sitting close to me, commented the whole way through the film - which was fantastic as I could really get a sense of what resonated. I made this film for western audiences to give them a better picture of the complexities of Pakistan (which has happened) but in my heart Pakistan always comes first, especially Lahore… • Tell us about your upcoming projects? I actually can’t – but it’s going well and I’m very excited. • What advice will you give to independent filmmakers, wanting to make a mark in the industry? Have a sense of humor, otherwise the system will break you.
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Fashion Forecast Winter 2011:
The silhouettes and colour palette of our favourite season By Ayesha Nasir
ith summer all set to make an exit, let’s usher in a much awaited winter by throwing open our closets and unpacking all those winter clothing that had been stowed away for the long summer. We have done a bit of research and discovered what trends will being vogue this winter as well as what colors will help make this winter a magical one.
Some Basic Trends:
Longer-lengths will still rule the ramps. Maxi-length dresses will be very elegant Pleated shirts and pants will be in vogue Chiffon will be the fabric of the season.
The Winter 2011 Color Palette and Silhouette
‘This winter will bring with it deep hues of vibrant colors, such as emerald green, royal blue, burgundy etc. In terms of cuts and silhouettes, the long lengths of shirts will stay; however, the kurta look will take over’ - Saira Rizwan
After interviewing several designers and fashionistas of our fashion industry, we feel that the color palette for this winter will be traditionally seasonal consisting of the classic blacks, grays and taupes and will make use of a variety of shades of emerald and forest green. Ensembles are likely to feature contrasting colors such as scarlet red and electric blue. So we can be sure to see a variety of colors used in winter clothing. This year has witnessed several different styles and fashions. Some that have managed to stay, while others have faded out. So, all you ladies who are dying to know what trends and what colors will be the focus this winter, wait no further! We have answered all your questions by asking some of Pakistan’s Fashion Industry’s most celebrated folk on what they have anticipated the trends for this winter will be.
Upcoming designer Uzma Hai whose clothes at Ellemint Prêt are a huge hit believes the trend for winter is straight cuts and vibrant colors. She says that given how dull winter can get, the best thing to do is to jazz up the season by wearing bright colors.
When we asked the former model and the dynamic CEO and owner of the famous Catwalk Productions and Modeling agency Freiha Altaf on what she thought would be the fashions to be seen this coming winter 2011, her opinion was: ‘It’s all about personal style and as I’m already wearing patiala shalwars, I think the style will be more ‘individual.’ 54 I October 23 - 29, 2011
According to designer, Saira Rizwan, the coming winter season will bring with itself a fresh new wave of trends. When we asked the ultra talented Saira Rizwan on what trends would be seen to dominate the Pakistani fashion scene. Saira Rizwan told us: ‘Winter colors are usually dark, such as blacks and greys, however, this winter will bring with it deep hues of vibrant colors, such as emerald green, royal blue, burgundy etc. In terms of cuts and silhouettes, the long lengths of shirts will stay; however, the kurta look will take over with intricate embroidery and embellishments around the pockets and necklines.’
We asked the graceful and enterprising owner of Elle’mint Prêt: a beauty salon, spa-haven and clothing store, on her take on what the dominating color palette and silhouettes for this winter shall be. Afreen Shiraz said: ‘I feel this winter will be all about bold yet subdued colors, such as a variety of hues in greys, blacks and browns. In terms of silhouettes, flattering straight lined shirts will be dominant.’
The talented Madiha Ibrar of the fashion label Milli Madiha, when asked the same question said: ‘I feel the silhouettes will be straighter as the paneled look has become boring and has been overdone. Anarkalis will still stay in fashion as will churidaars. When it comes to the color palette, the colors that will be prominent this winter will mostly be plums and reds.’
The creative and chic fashion designer Sanam Agha was of the opinion that this winter will be all about elegance, sophistication and timelessness. When we asked Sanam Agha what colors and silhouettes she thought would stand out this winter she said: ‘This winter would see a lot of play with colors, it could be vibrant hues to pastels, anything and everything will go! Flowy silhouettes with churidaars will be in vogue and may even continue to be so for some time.’
Designer Tena Durrani whose clothes are fast becoming exceedingly populr amongst celebrities, from red carpet host Hira Tareen to ARY Morning show host Nida Yasir, says winter is a time to wear rich jewel tones, vibrant blues and rich oranges. In her opinion, deep and rich colors are the way to go, and depth in a fabric is what the winter season is all about. Her personal favorites for winter: indigo and cobalt blue.
Nausheen of ENZ Jewels:
Dynamic jewelry designer Nausheen Aamir of EN Z Jewels shared with us her insights into the coming fashion for winter 2011. She predicted the color palette to be a very diversified one. Nausheen Aamir said: ‘Keeping the color palette in mind, the range will consist of all types of hues and colors. We will be seeing a lot of dark, vivid and even bright colors.’ Like many other designer, Nausheen Aamir agrees that the silhouettes will be slimmer and more flattering. She said: ‘The cuts and silhouettes of dresses would be straighter instead of flaring or overly paneled.’ October 23 - 29, 2011 I 55
By Sadyia Babar
believe that the best way to reproduce a dish I have enjoyed at a restaurant is to experiment at home. This column lets you search for ingredients and see what can be made from what’s easily available locally. Veranda Bistro is an upscale restaurant offering authentic Mediterranean cuisine. The lunch buffet is extremely popular where new menu is served every day. Their menu includes variety of soups, salads, Italian risotto’s, raviolis, grilled chicken and fish in various flavors.
Veranda Bistro’s price: Rs950 (Our price: Rs200)
Oil Shredded ginger Boneless fish cubes Flour pinch of salt
2tbsp for deep frying 2tbsp 250gm 2tbsp of flour and a
Oil Garlic paste Chicken stock Grated ginger Tamarind juice Oyster sauce Fish sauce Brown sugar Coarse red chillies Chopped green onions
1/2tbsp 1/2/tbsp 1 cup 1tbsp 1tbsp 1/2tbsp 1/2tbsp 1/2tbsp 1/2tsp 1/2tsp
Heat oil in a wok over high heat. Add garlic and stir fry it for 1 minute. Add rest of the ingredients and cook for about 2-3 minutes until the sauce has thickened. Then, deep fry ginger in 2tbsp of oil and set aside. Coat the fish fillets with the flour and deep fry the fillets until golden brown and crispy. Then add the sauce and cook it for another minute. Garnish with crispy fried ginger and chopped green onions on top and serve hot with saffron rice. 56 I October 23 - 29, 2011
Ingredients Basmati rice Chicken stock Saffron threads Lemon juice Salt to taste
1 cup 1/2 cup chicken stock 1/4tsp soaked in lukewarm water 1tsp
Boil chicken stock over high heat. Add saffron, salt and lemon juice. Stir well. Add rice and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and cook for about 10 to 12 minutes. When the water has gone, turn off the heat and place lid on tight. October 23 - 29, 2011 I 53
From the catwalks of Paris to the Fashion Houses of Milan, walking the streets of New York to the boutique lanes of London, Fatima Khan, fashion stylist, designer, graduate of NCA and The London School of Fashion is a self proclaimed Fashionista. Her unique aesthetic sense coupled with her experience as a fashion buyer/merchandiser for various Fashion Houses in London has helped to launch her as a fashion connoisseur par excellence. Meet her every Sunday and learn what’s hot on the high streets in the global fashion village as well as the season’s must-haves and how to wear them.“My aim is to give my Pakistani readers a heads up by providing them with key forecasts for the upcoming season so they can welcome the season with a perfect wardrobe without necessarily paying designer prices”
1960s Chic Get your groove on! This Season, channel the rocking’ sixties with shift dresses, jewelled necklines, and bold prints. Virtually every season features references to the past and this year, the 1960s are a big influence. With clean lines and perfectly put together looks, favourite silhouettes include Jackie O-inspired skirt suits, Flirty A-line frocks, cigarette trousers, Mod shift dresses, Peter Pan collars, pea coats and more. Go back in time this season. Leave fashion’s summer obsession with the 1970s and look to 1960s style icons Mary Quant, Twiggy and Julie Christie to inspire your new season look. Mustards, browns, mini dresses and cropped cigarette trousers have brought the 1960s into 2011. Think Jackie O, with an array of hushed tones bringing a sophisticated and wearable take to the trend.
The 60’s were swinging on the catwalks, from Giles to DKNY. Step back into the swinging sixties and take some style notes from Prada, Michael Kors, Yves Saint Laurent, DKNY, Daks, Giambattista Valli and Alberta Ferretti. Channel modernday Twiggy meets it-Brit Alexa Chung with androgynous mod silhouettes, like bright cropped cigarette trousers, shift dresses and high necklines, restructured in short modern lengths. Look to Bottega Veneta or Jean Paul Gaultier for an erudite take on ladylike dressing with a retro spin. Head to Prada for graphic-print pinafores and to Burberry for details with perfectly sloped shoulders and pretty pointed court shoes. On a beauty note, beehives were tall at Jean Paul Gaultier and Bottega while, elsewhere, a side-parting that swept across the forehead kept things neat. Try a headband and madeup eyes for preppy appeal for a perfect 1960s look.
For my Pakistan
As ’60s are tall and proud this season, sophisticated lady like look is the new buzz in town. Look for tops with sloping shoulders and bracelet sleeves and wear with polo necks, cropped trousers, miniskirts, knee-high boots or a pair of Bottega Veneta’s dainty heels. Go for fabrics that will hold their shape in shift dresses and two-piece skirt suits. Mix mustard with oranges, browns & reds. It may seem a little full on but they are rich earthy tones that instantly give the retro vibe but are surprisingly flattering and easy to wear, if you’re feeling especially retro. Embrace happy-go-lucky prints like hounds tooth checks, box plaids and florals. Instead of circa, ’60s psychedelic colours, keep your palette to chic neutrals like black, white and tan, adding pops of primary colour with yellow, blue and red. Accessories should be kept to a minimum. A wide hip-slung belt and chic clutch complete the rationalized mod style. It’s a perfect mix of ladylike and mod.
Key inspirational pieces
Here are some key pieces from international market so you can take the inspiration and translate the upcoming trends into your outfit A. Mayfair Bag, £350, Aspinal of London B. Black Patent Ballet Pumps, £160, Kurt Geiger C. Collared shift dress, £18, ASOS firstname.lastname@example.org D. Moschino - Boucle wool-blend shift dress, £495, facebook.com/fashionistafatima E. Black lurex ‘dark turtle’ sunglasses, £279, Cutler & Gross
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