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Asociacion de Artes Events and Activities By: Chris Courtright

October—November 2017

Issue No. 80

It does not seem like six months since our last Asociacion de Artes report…. summer seemed short this year! But here we go! The 2017-18 season will be packed with lots of entertainment and many get involved opportunities for all who “winter” on the sunny side of North America. Asociacion de Artes (AdA) offers fun and unique opportunities to get involved and make a difference.

November 25-

Baseball Camp 9am – 1pm. This camp teaches basic skills to 6 – 15 year old's in different communities. We leave the community with equipment so they can continue playing and hopefully build a team and join the teams already formed in the East Cape area. Then we have games we can go watch! To help out, you don’t need to be a baseball expert, just have a desire to help. You can always donate equipment too!

December 2nd

Holiday Art Fair at Colina del Sol 10am - 3pm. Be a vendor, work the beer garden, sell tickets, or set-up or tear down. This is a great show and is a fantastic opportunity for the holiday shopping season.

programs! The AdA’s mission is to provide art supplies to 19 different area schools, offer baseball camps, sponsor the summer Cursos de Verano, sponsor Easter Sports program, publish East Capers Magazine and offer opportunities for artists to sell their creations. We will be having some ‘open house’ gathering this year where you can talk with the AdA members, learn what we do and see how you can participate- watch for dates. We don’t ask for huge commitments or have any timeconsuming jobs (except for this paper) and can work with everyone’s talents, limitations and skills. We must report some sad news. Last spring, we lost our copy editor and dear friend, Pako Ford. Pako did an amazing job of correcting this editor’s errors and could find the smallest problem, correct my improper sentences (is that correct?) and see that I have 3 spaces when I should have only 2. He is sorely missed for his stories, humor and smile.

Visit our Website:

February 7th-

Artist Studio Tour 10am – 4pm. A unique way to see the studio / work spaces of the talent that resides in Los Barriles or Buena Vista. With 14 -16 studios and multiple artists at each stop, you really learn the inspiration that they get from the studio where it all happens.

March 18th

Festival de Artes -25th Anniversary 9am – 4pm The largest art show in the lower Baja, we combine folkloric & traditional entertainment, beer garden, great food and over 140 vendors with all kinds of different hand made products. This festival is the primary fundraiser for AdA for the programs we support. The silent auction provides you with the opportunity to get great deals on hotels, mini-vacation packages, restaurants, activities, good and services that you buy anyway. Just buy them here and get a great deal and support our October—November 2017

Festival de Artes Beer Garden and vendors. It is a fun time had by all including the volunteers!

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Advertising in East Capers

Advertising in the East Capers gets the word out about your business AND your ad money supports the 3 week 'Cursos de Verano' summer school, for over 120 local children, provides art supplies for 18 East Cape public schools, baseball camps, just to name a few things the Asociacion de Artes does! In addition to space in the printed version, your color ad appears in the online version at no additional cost. You can download the 2017/18 Advertising Kit by visiting our website at:

Tax-deductable Contributions to the Asociación de Artes

The Asociación de Artes del Mar de Cortez A.C., Los Barriles, B.C. Sur, Mexico is a legal non-profit Mexican corporation not affiliated with any other organization, association, club or business. The Asociación is in full compliance with the terms of the NAFTA agreement of January 1, 1994. As such, contributions made to the Asociación de Artes are tax-deductible in the United States, Mexico and Canada. For more information visit: or the NAFTA Website at:

Volunteers Needed!

The Asociación de Artes needs volunteers to help support their programs that bring the arts to the local communities and the schools. To learn more about these programs, visit: If you would like to volunteer, send an email to:

Call for Articles

East Capers is looking for fiction and true stories about our region and items that affect our residents. If you are interested in submitting articles, recipes, stories or your personal experiences in Baja, email your 1,000-words or less article to:

Thank You!

This publication is possible with the help of the board members of the Asociación de Artes and members of the community.


East Capers Periódico Publisher Asociación de Artes del Mar de Cortez A.C., Los Barriles, BCS, Mexico Editor

Christine Kenck-Courtright

Copy Editor Circulation

Brian Cummings

Advertising Contributors

Gary Graham Theresa Comber Christine Courtright Urmas Kaldveer Meg Swanson

Adam Greenberg Ruth Ryan Char Wenger Kim Schoenfield Jackie Reeves

Annette Kaiser

Renee Lagloire Steve Reed Michelle Melehes


Imprenta Ciudad Los Niños, La Paz, BCS, Mexico

To learn about Ciudad Los Niños, visit their website at: ———————————

The opinions expressed within the articles in East Capers are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Asociación de Artes del Mar de Cortez A.C.

Newsletter Email Address

October—November 2017

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HELP WANTED Copy Editor for East Capers Magazine Work from home! Only 4 issues a year! Friendly co-workers! Pay negotiable as long as it is zeros! Be apart of something big!! Contact

What’s in a Name? By: History Buff Spring 2009

I was sitting under my ramada reading a good book when one of my neighbors dropped by to announce that he had visited Bahia de los sueño other day. “Where’s that?” I queried. “It’s a beautiful bay next to Los Planes,” he answered. “Ah yes,” I said, “you must mean Bahia de los Muertos (Bay of he Dead). I’ll bet my old friend Jimmy Smith must be rolling over in his grave at the Pantheon in Los Barriles on that name change!” and laughed. He looked puzzled. That is when I told him a thing about gringos coming down to the Baja Peninsula and changing the name of the historic places. Here is how he put it...”’Cabo’ is understood among ‘hip gringos’ to be the same place that the locals refer to as San Lucas. San Juanico is now ‘Scorpion Bay’ and Punta Arena has become ‘Lighthouse Point.’ Agua de in Costa is ‘North Beach’ while Rancho Buenas Aires is now the ‘Goat Ranch’.”

October—November 2017

I must agree with Jimmy! In the first place, there are historic reasons why places have been given certain names all over the world The Baja Peninsula is no different. In fact to have a bunch of strangers come down there and ipso-facto take it unon themselves to tack a made-up name on a historic place is very presumptuous, to say the least! Anyway, there is a story behind why ‘Bahia de los Muertos’ got its name. After checking with some of Jimmy’s friends we all agreed that the story goes like this. Way back in the mid-1700’s when Manuel de Osio was the silver king of the region around San Antonio, El Trunfo and El Rosario, a pier was built at Bahia de los Muertos to accommodate the off-loading of Manuel de Osio’s ore onto ships that would take it to Guadalajara. This was also the time when pirates cruised up and down the Sea of Cortez looking for booty. Bahia de los Muertos is a bay, which provided a nice hiding place for pirates. They had scoped out the comings and goings of the ore-laden mule-driven carts carrying de Osio’s treasure. However, de Osio was no dummy; he had plenty of helpers around to off-load the ore. When the pirates attacked de Osio’s men, a bloody battle ensued, causing many deaths to occur. That’s how Bahia de los Muertos got its name. Now, let us all pratice....Bahia de los Muertos, Bahia de los Muertos, so Jimmy can get some rest!


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6th Annual

Fashion Show

Dec. 1st 2017 10:30am ~Bay View Restaurant at Palmas Cortez Hotel~

** There are 3+ different presenters with new


** You will pick the table you wish to sit at

when you buy your ticket.

** Your ticket will entitle you to a full lunch (2 choices) and the opportunity to win a door prize as there are as many door prizes as there are presenters.

** Donations (more than 45 items) from big

hearted BCS businesses and from retirees will be raffled on and off during the show.

Proceeds go to the group that does Pan de Vida (Bread of Life) which is providing food for the disabled and out of work Mexicans and their family. They have been doing the food distribution since 2011 and now starting in 2015 this fashion show is just for this purpose. Tickets sold at the Road Runner Cafe in the Pueblo Plaza Nov. 24, 27 & 29th - 11AM -1 PM.

Please support this great cause and come, have a great time and buy that new item for yourself or Christmas shop for family and friends!!


October—November 2017

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Path to Yoga Garden By: Jackie Reeves

I was only 13 when I found a small book on our mantel, just above the fireplace in our family home in San Diego. The book had many black and white photos of a man in a loin cloth, doing intricate and advanced yoga poses. I was intrigued! My father’s friend had given him the book, hoping that he might try yoga for his back issues. The scantily clad man in the book was BKS Iyengar, from India. Mr. Iyengar (known to his students as Guruji) was one of the original people to introduce yoga to the Western world. He made many trips to the United States over the years to bring the teachings and philosophy to us. Fast forward to 1974, I attended my first yoga class while living in Hawaii. My instructor was kind and gentle; her voice sounded like warm honey. I was hooked. When I returned to the mainland, I also returned to my previous job--working for San Diego County at their locked mental health facility. I was working the midnight shift in the admitting office and often the patients who came in were brought by police, right off the streets for drug addiction, violence, drunkenness. It was a lot for a young person to witness and process. In order to continue to work in that environment, I sought out yoga for assistance. There was a yoga studio three blocks from my house, so I began going every day. This studio taught Iyengar’s methods not only in the asanas (poses), but also relating to Pranayama (breath work). My daily yoga class gradually helped me “show up” at my job with a better attitude, one of more calm and tolerance. We had no mats back then, no music, no art on the walls and no fancy yoga clothes. There was no “yoga scene.” Still, it was a dedicated yoga space, something that was quite rare in those days. There was just a committed group of students who relished the opportunity to be quiet and mindful, to slow their lives down and find some peace for a while. I fell in love with the practice and the way I felt afterward. I was amazed that the hour spent in a yoga class would help me for hours and hours after the class ended. I felt more grounded and peaceful amidst my busy, young life and stressful all-too-real job. Without the kind of balance that yoga provided me, I would not have been able to hold that job.

know this is now the Skylight Theater on Oak St!) In 1989, I met John Scott who was a certified Astanga Vinyasa teacher from New Zealand. He showed me “his yoga,” we began practicing together and eventually we taught this powerful system together. We traveled t o Mysore, Southern India to study with Sri Pattabhi Jois, the founder of the Astanga yoga form. My knowledge of yoga was further enhanced when I returned to school to obtain my Oregon State Massage therapy license. Soon I was also licensed in Washington State, and nationally certified. I practiced therapeutic massage for 15 years with many hours of continuing education I n anatomy, physiology, kinesiology and other modalities. Again, a very exciting journey with so much to learn and discover--there is never an end to learning with bodywork and yoga. My journey has been so rich and rewarding. I am eternally grateful for all of the fine teachers I have had along the path. So many dedicated and heartful people showed me, guided me, and were patient with my questions and curiosity. All along the way, like-minded people have appeared just when I needed a helping hand, a piece of advice, or a general kick in the butt when appropriate! Add to that all of the amazing students who showed up time and again to attend my classes (you know who you are!) I could not be a teacher without every one of you. You are so appreciated and loved, and courageous to begin the path of inquiry using your precious physical body, mind, and soul. It's not always easy, nor is it meant to be—that is a big part of the gift—but the rewards are great. It is a path with heart. Over these past decades, I built my knowledge, my skills, and my yoga practice through thousands of hours of Continued on page 6

I moved to the Hood River Columbia Gorge area (Oregon) in 1977 and began teaching there. Once again, there was no yoga scene--just a few folks wanting to be together and discover more deeply the physical and emotional well-being that comes from a committed body-centered practice. I did not have my own studio, so I taught at the Mid-Columbia Center for Dance and Tae Kwan Do. (Some of you locals will

October—November 2017


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workshops, classes, retreats, and continuing education, and now the journey is fulfilling a dream. I am honored to be creating a wonderful new practice space in Los Barriles, Baja. YOGA GARDEN is a beautiful walled garden containing a 1500 square foot, light-filled studio built with love and commitment. My partner of 25 years, Matt is a partner and our general contractor, and my sister, Shirley is also a partner and our marketing director. YOGA GARDEN's planned opening date is November 20th. 2017. We have a full schedule of fun and healthy classes for every level and ability in yoga, Pilates, core fitness, and more. Visit us on Facebook at Yoga Garden Baja and on the web at


Club Rotario Los Barriles By: Steve Reed

Club Rotario Los Barriles Cabo Este BCS is a small but growing Rotary club with big ambitions. Every year we begin a new season with a daunting to do list. Every year we fear we’ve bitten off more than we can chew, and every year friends step up and wonderful things happen. This year we stand on the verge of another new season, another perhaps overly ambitious reason that we will certainly be challenged. And once again, wonderful things will happen. Our new President is Josefina Ruiz, may prove to be our most energetic ever. She’s been building relationships with other Rotary clubs, not just in Baja, or just in Mexico, but worldwide. Her credentials are a pure heart and a fearless pursuit of aid for our community. Her gentle reminder is one we never forget: “We are not just a social club. We are Rotary. We make a difference.” With the help of our friends and neighbors, the list of projects we completed last season is long: Constructed a new bano for our LB Cancha, constructed a new LB Elementary kitchen and cafeteria, sponsored our Taste of East Cape local dinning promotion, supported Lord of the Wind event, participated in our local combined Carnaval, participated in our new Interact Club activities (Created recycling bins, painted the Health Center, painted the San Antonio albergues, painted the Buena Vista Elementary School, cleaned-up and painted at Laguna Park, cleanedup our athletic fields, and painted the San Antonio Kindergarten classroom), created new Tech Centers for La Ribera and San Bartolo, improved our sports field area for youth activities in cooperation with Club Deportivo, filed for a Global Grant to continue providing healthful water for East Cape, rebuilt our Los Barriles fountain with the help of local donors, and supported several spay and neuter clinics.

Rotary and the recycle container workers.

Continued on page 7


October—November 2017


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Rotary Activities Continued from page 6

Our projects for this new season include Healthful Water Filtration distribution, Community Health Care improvement, Youth Activities so no child is left unattended, Senior Care so no one of age will be without aid, Literacy and Education for adults as well as children, Community Events such as our Carnaval, Community Improvement with rebuilding our Laguna Park stage, and supporting all the projects of our own Rotary Interact Youth Club. We’re sponsoring four special events; Fall Fishing Derby – October 27th; Taste of East Cape - Saturday, November 25th; Winter Fest Dinner and Auction - Saturday, January 20th 2018; St. Patrick's Day Bike Rally - March 17th, 2018. Our new season will see one major change. The Lord of the Wind competition will no longer take place. Our primary events now include a Fall Fishing Derby Friday, October 27th , Taste of East Cape dining explosion - Saturday, November 25th, Winter Fest Dinner Auction - Saturday, January 20th, 2018, and our new St. Patrick's Day Bike Rally - March 17th, 2018. Come join us. We are Club Rotario Los Barriles. Wherever we are, you are welcome.

The new fountain looks great after the work the Rotary did to beautify it and make it a great ‘first impression’!

October—November 2017


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Los Barriles Community Market Returns! By: Michele Melehes

Greetings from the Los Barriles Community Market. We are proud to be kicking off our 7th season on Saturday November 18 from 9am to 1pm and run EVERY Saturday until April. What started as a suggestion at a town hall meeting 7 years ago has become a Saturday morning ritual here in Los Barriles. The Community Market now offers bigger and better food choices, diverse fruit and vegetable vendors, a variety of arts and crafts and wonderful local musicians who provide us with great entertainment. We have a core group of vendors that have been with the market for the last 7 years and shown up every Saturday thru thick and thin. That’s not an easy task and we truly grateful for their commitment. We have also attracted many new vendors which keeps the market ever changing, fun and interesting. We have all witnessed the wrath of Mother Nature this year and hope the Community Market can be used to offer support and aid to those in need. We welcome all non-profits and fully support and encourage these efforts. We continue to look for nee opportunity for the market to be a platform for community events and hope to get local schools involved on a more regular basis. Our wonderful community makes this market happen and so we thank all of you for making the Los Barriles Community Market what it is today. See you all Saturday Nov 18 at the New City Park. Questions?


Mexican Holidays

2 November: Day of the Dead 19-20 November: Revolution day (1910) 12 December: Virgin Mary of Guadalupe Day. Technically not official, but is one of the most important Mexican Holidays 24 December: Christmas Eve (Not an official holiday, but normally a full non-working day or only half day) 25 December: Christmas 31 December: New Year’s Eve (normally a full nonworking day or only half day) 1 Jan: New Year’s Day 6 Jan: The Three Wise Men day, celebrating arrival of the Three Wise Men to see and bring gifts to baby Jesus. 2 Feb: The Candelaria Virgin Day, celebrated in many places around the country (not an official holiday) 5 Feb: Constitution Day (1917) 24 Feb: Flag Day (not official) First Sunday in March: Family´s day 21 Mar: Birth of Benito Juárez (1806). 2006 was the bicentennial year. 30 Mar: Good Friday 1 April: Easter Sunday (normally a non-working day) 1 May: Workers' Day commemorates the Mexican workers' union movements. 5 May: The Battle of Puebla against the French army, 19th century. 10 May: Mothers' day October—November 2017

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October—November 2017


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The Amazing Pineapple

By: Renée Lagloire, Buen Provecho, San Bartolo

“As with many things in life, with the pineapple it’s about getting past that tough exterior to get to the goodies” said a wise friend recently, looking at the pineapples at Chapito’s groceries. And while the pineapples weren’t necessarily the point, it did lead to this article because I got curious about them. The pineapple (Ananas comosus) is a tropical fruit or to be more exact, it is a tropical plant with edible and multiple fruit that consist of coalesced berries. It is the most economically significant plant of the Bromeliaceae family. Like most tropical fruit, the pineapple is chock full of Vitamin C. It also has a high level of the trace mineral manganese which plays an important role in energy production in the human body. Contrary to popular belief, pineapples did not come from Hawaii (where they were introduced in large-scale projects in the early 1900s). It turns out that the pineapple has its origins in the tropical areas of Brazil and Paraguay. Little is known about the domestication history, but in modern times, there are no wild pineapples. Pineapples are seedless; all existing cultivars are propagated either from crowns or from the base of the fruit where sprouts appear.

It is thought that in pre-Columbian times the Tupi-Guarani tribes of the tropical regions of Paraguay and Brazil brought the pineapple with them as they expanded their territories. At the time of the European conquest, pineapples could be found throughout tropical South America, in the Maya area in Central America and Mexico, and in the West Indies. They were soon loaded into ships heading to Europe and other parts, with a few pineapples surviving the long trips. Because of their scarcity, and their amazing taste and smell, in the late 15th and early 16th centuries they were reserved for royalty. Records show that by 1525 pineapples had been introduced in Charles V’s court. From the mid-16th through early19th centuries, pineapples were granted a place of honor by the European nobility whose enchantment with the fruit was such that showing a pineapple at a gathering was prestigious. Typically, the pineapple was featured in elaborate displays of fruits and vegetables set up as centerpieces on tables at social events. The demand for pineapples so outgrew the supply that entrepreneurs rented pineapples to be used in centerpieces. Not to be left out, the not-so-affluent could rent a pineapple crown. The pineapple’s reign as a trendsetter ended with new trade routes opening to the West Indies in the 1820s, resulting in a variety tropical fruit, including pineapple becoming more readily available. Throughout Mexico, pineapple is a favorite, and has been for hundreds of years. It is eaten fresh with chile and lime, in fruit drinks, frozen fruit desserts, or as fillings in desserts. In coastal areas, pineapple joins chiles in delicious shrimp and fish dishes. The recipe below is a simple pineapple pico de gallo salsa. It is very tasty eaten with tortilla chips, tacos, or fish such as halibut, salmon, or tuna. Enjoy! Pico de Gallo de Piña - Fresh Pineapple Salsa 1 pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into very small dice 1 red onion, peeled and cut into very small dice 1 - 2 small jalapeño, cut into very small dice 2 limes, juiced ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon honey (optional) ¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves Salt and freshly ground pepper * Mix together the pineapple, onion, jalapeno, lime juice, oil, honey, and cilantro in a medium bowl.

* Season with salt and pepper, to taste, and stir to combine.


October—November 2017

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Oscar the  Mechanic  WE WORK ON CARS & TRUCKS Behind El Toro Y La Luna


Open Monday thru Saturday 8am to 5pm Call us at: (cell) 624-117-3412

It’s like ‘springtime’ in the El Nino Cycle A Mermaid’s Summer on the Sea By: Theresa Comber

Across the planet there may not be a better seasonal place for a mermaid than summertime on the Sea of Cortez. Warm, crystal clear, blue calm water. This spring and summertime were like a gift from Neptune. The El Nino cycle that has played tricks on our fishery for the past few years – too few dorado, increased amounts of blue marlin, no sardines, lots of ballyhoo – cut out like a knife last fall, ushering in below the surface what feels like a new ‘springtime’ of the next multi-year weather cycle. Since June waters have been alive with clouds of baby fish, types that haven’t been near the shore for years. As they grew and the food chain above them flourished and they invited back our dorado and wahoo numbers have been growing. And East Cape waters ushered in rare sightings of whales – huge schools of sperm whales lolling on the surface and Baird’s Beaked whales breaching with glee and pilot whales four abreast clearing their tails jumping a boat wake and seldom seen rough-toothed dolphins hanging nose up on a shark buoy and…then a mermaid.

a Mermaid Board. A gift from my friend Ian Gibson, this was my entrée to the sea, getting into the water column, 10, 20, even 30 feet down, towed along by the “Too Awesome” at 2-1/2 knots, as close as I’ll ever be, ever, to being a mermaid. Using just a mask – no snorkel, no fins, you don’t need them - the pressure of the water across my chest somehow the instinct to breath. One minute, then two, then more and I surface out of habit but seemingly not out of necessity. My favorite mermaid stretch is mid-way up and inside Isla Cerralva where the big rock structures that have shed off the island are teeming with fish and you can direct the 70 feet of tow line intimately close, weaving in and out, up and down, and cruise for mermaid mile after mile.

Baja California Sur Facts Baja California Sur has a population of 665,634 people. In terms of area, the state is made up of 28,369 square miles, making it Mexico’s ninth largest state. While the population is collectively known for its youth—more than half are under the age of thirty—the state has the lowest rates of illiteracy of the entire country. The capital of the state is La Paz, which is also its largest city.

The Mermaid Board It’s how I feel when I’m deep in the water column, in the midst of the sea and as close as humanly possible to actually being a Cortez mermaid. Without an actual tail (damn it, anyway) I use a ‘Mermaid Board’ – think of the skim board kids use to ride the skinny layer of water at the shore’s edge. It’s a thin piece of wood, about 28 inches wide, 18 inches deep and sloping from the front on both sides down to about 16 inches, about a ½ inch thick. Cover it with fiberglass and cut two hand holds shoulder width apart on the straight edge, add two holes in the front edge equal distant apart for a tow line and “tadah”, October—November 2017


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Zoot Suits and Flappers Meets the Baja


By: Kim Schoenfield

Baja Shakespeare is ramping up for their 18th season with a script hand-sculpted by the exceptionally talented Director, Camilla Ford. It is based on Woody Allen’s, Bullets Over Broadway, except she has set it in Los Barriles featuring this theatre company’s pretend production of Romeo and Juliet. Oh, did we tell you that this interpretation of R&J will be told by gangsters and their molls? Baja Shakes is venturing into a new era and you won’t want to miss Bullets Over Baja! Of course the production will include live music, this year led by Greg Herback, and the usual crazy dancing, local jokes and even more loco antics! Opening night is Friday, March 9th, again on Saturday, March 10th (both shows at 7:00 pm) and a matinée on Sunday March 11th starting at 1:30 pm. All four shows the following week, Wednesday March 14th, Thursday March 15th, Friday March 16th and closing night March 17th will start at 7:00 pm, doors open at 6:00 pm.

The venue is in Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort’s Convention Center in Spa, again offering pre-show dinners and overnight accommodations. Contact the hotel directly for reservations and specials: 624 142 0099 or


Nuevo Creacion Ninos New Creation Kids By: Adam Greenberg


On March 16 , 2018 from 4pm –6pm we would be so thrilled to have you join our 4th annual auction in support of New Creation Kids. Last year was one our best years ever. We raised almost $15,000 in support of these deserving children. Money raised bought them a new Van which was desperately needed to help transport the children around. It also paid for food, electricity, propane, fuel, medicine and so very much more over the off season. This facility supports children who have been abandoned by their parents or whose parents are in prison or other rehabilitation programs. There is no government funding and they really have nowhere else to go. Soon, our kind volunteers will be soliciting donations from local businesses. We will also be setting up at the Saturday Market in late December where we sell the beautiful wooden crafts that the kids make to support themselves. To learn more about this worthy cause and the wonderful children of Nuevo Creacion, if you are interested in making a donation or volunteering your time, please visit our website on the web or on facebook. You can also contact Adam Greenberg by email or telephone or 604-364-8853

MEX. LANDLINE (624) 141-0014

Check out my Facebook page By appointment or watch for the Open signs


October—November 2017

Read the color version online at deer accompanied by two fawns. There were additional paintings of human-like figures and a long row of human hands. The second site was San Borjitas, 30 kilometers due west of Mulege. The hours-long ride on a very rough road was worthe the trip. Here we found one of the Great Murals of prehistoric Baja California Sur. An easy walk uphill took us to the cave, a large, deep alcove about 100 feet across and 30 feel deep. The ceiling of the cave is literally coverendwith stylized groupings of people. It is as though the enire village is represented, both the living and the dead, young and old. Weapons lay everywhere. Some figures had arrows through them. Others were lying horizontally, suggesting a battle scene. The San Ben Borjitas painters established a distinct style of painting representing the human figure San Borjitas men for instance are to different than those found in caves further north in the Sierra de San Juan. Unaccompanied by deer, borregos, birds or fisth, they are characterized by can-shaped heads, stiff, slightly bulbous bodies, limbs thrust out at awkward angles, legs spread wide and arms horizontal rather than in the classic hands-up position.

The Work of Man Hands 5000 Years Ago in Baja

Our curiosity was whetted by this visit to these tow remarkable prehistoric Indian paintings sites. We wanted to learn more. So, we bought a copy of The Cave Paintings of Baja California written by Harry W. Crosby. Ask for your copy at your local book store in Los Barriles.

By: Meg Swanson Spring-Summer 2006

Hearing and reading about the cave paintings of Baja and actually seeing them is like waking up in two different worlds. Researchers have documented hundreds of the mural sites in the central mountain regions of the Baja peninusula in the state of Baja California Sur. There are more than 320 in the Sierra de Guadalupe and hundreds of others north in the Sierra de San Francisco. We visited two sites recently, located in Sierra de Guadalupe. The closest tow is Mulege between Santa Rosalia and Loreto. The first site was La Trinidad, south-west of Mulege. We stayed overnight in Mulege, hiring a guide the next morning to drive us through rugged terrain to the La Trinidad Rancho. The ranchero servies as a caretaker protecting access to the cave. We hiked about a quarter of a mile throufh beautiful meadow to the mouth of a small canyon with a sparkling lake. We crossed the lake in a rowboat until we came to a group of large boulders. A short walk up the boulders led us to a rock wall covered with ancient art. Paintings on the wall depicted animals, fish, whales, rabbits and deer. The most compelling figure was the “Trinidad Deer,” an amazing rendering of a checkerbord-decorated adult October—November 2017


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The Total Solar Eclipse – truly, deeply, experience it. By: Theresa Comber

It was my quest to truly and deeply experience the solar eclipse that was arcing its way across the United States – west coast to east coast - for the first time in 99 years on August 21, 2017. I arrived home to Hailey, Idaho, just five days earlier and was gathering information like a squirrel gathers nuts about our impending celestial event. I was feeling truly blessed that it was crossing the breadth of Idaho and happening over our heads. My goal was the “Path of Totality” and Stanley Basin 60 miles north was the epicenter, so we were going to be north bound. But before traveling from our summer home through the Sawtooth National Forest and over Galena Summit, which marks the headwaters of the Salmon River, I read a quote from a woman writer that said, ‘Experiencing a partial eclipse is like kissing a man; Experiencing a total eclipse is like marrying him'. I was set on having the ‘marrying him’ total solar experience! The build-up and anticipation created butterflies in my stomach. Dawning our eclipse glasses; looking through kitchen colanders at the shadow of the moon on a piece of white paper reflecting 100 little holes, each no longer round, but partially eclipsed; we covered our cameras with eclipse glasses


and snapped photos; we put our heads inside an oversized hand-made Boy Scout style box to see the eclipse illuminated within. On and off, on and off our glasses went over nearly 50 minutes as we looked up, exclaimed it was getting closer, amazed at the light changing on our beautiful world. As the shade began when the moon covered the sun mid -way, it got damn cold – in a place that's already damn cold - often wintertime’s coldest spot in the nation. I had just taken off my down jacket in the warmth of the late morning sun but grabbed it and bundled up again. The chill came on FAST, so palatable, like walking into a freezer, and even the heartiest of our campmate friends were grabbing their coats and all exclaiming how could it get SO cold SO fast! And then…here it comes, here it comes, the total eclipse! OFF went our eclipse glasses, Full eclipse DARK, the stars and planets came out, we could identify both Venus and Mars, the world went quiet as it does when it gets dark and we were in awe. The sun was completely obscured yet the outer rim was alive and with the naked eye we could see the red spots peeking out from behind the moon; with binoculars, the variegated aspects of the moon were astounding. Hold on, hold on, I pleaded to let time stop to take this all in, stretch it all out, but the two minutes and twelve seconds passed as we basked in the glow of the shadowed darkness and then all too soon the warning calls

October—November 2017

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came to put back on our eclipse glasses. We watched the moon begin to wane, leaving the face of the sun and once again exposing the light of day.

It was ‘awe’some. All highlighted the day before by our happenstance camping mates who loved our little Airstream ‘Bambi’ which broke the ice as we trundled into the camp area just a bit before evening. This was a CLAN of elderly eclipse chasers, some of whom had met years ago on a ship off South America to experience a total eclipse. Two were Astrophysicists, one called ‘Dr. Science’, and he and his wife had come all the way from Ireland to join their friends; another astrophysicist had previously experienced NINE total solar eclipses. A NASA astrophysicist and his young family joined the morning group of 20, having just arrived from Maryland for a conference that was beginning at Sun Valley in the afternoon. When the dark abated and the shadow let go, out came the sun and the champagne and our sun and moon loving clan were toasting and smiling and feeling incredibly fortunate to be here, together, today, and experience Mother Nature’s celestial gift. We turned into ‘Umbraphiles’ right then and there and are now ‘fully married’ to chasing the FULL solar eclipse. We won’t miss the next one, just 7 short years away on April 8, 2024. It’ll be crossing just below the Baja peninsula, moving onto Mexico’s Mainland and streaking up into Texas, crossing this time south to north across the United States and into Canada, all the way to Nova Scotia. THAT Path of Totality is scheduled to be as much as 6 minutes long…six glorious, astounding minutes. We won’t miss it!

October—November 2017


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Baja California Sur Facts

While famous for its beaches, the state is home to coastal flatlands, mountains, and desert lands. In fact, the climate in most reaches of the state is desert. The state is famous for its bays like Vizcaino, Concepcion, Ballenas, and La Paz that are all popular among tourists. The state is home to the Vizcaino Desert and the Sierra de la Giganta. Baja California Sur was historically separated from the continent and, therefore, most of the country by a sea that was difficult to sail and by two deserts difficult to traverse. Even though modern means of transportation exist, travel by air to the state remains rather limited for most people within the country. Although the terrain is rugged and much of the state retains its remote atmosphere, the main towns boast vibrant communities and luxury tourist amenities. Baja California Sur also has jurisdiction over various Pacific and Sea of Cortez islands such as Santa Catalina, Magdalena, and Santa Margarita as well as other groups of islands and islets. While most of the flora and fauna are common to the desert regions of the country, the waters off the state’s coast are varied and plentiful, making Baja California Sur one of the world’s most famous sport fishing destinations. As whales and even Great White sharks cruise the waters off the state, there are also plenty of tuna, dorado, and marlins to attract throngs of fishermen to the bays and ocean fishing grounds.

Emergencies can happen anytime of the day or night! Suddenly a drunk driver comes out of nowhere, or you feel excruciating pain down your left arm, or a horrendous sudden headache knocks you out! Somehow you're taken to an emergency room and your life is saved, but now what? You require continuing hospitalization. You want to go home to the US or Canada. Now the insurance battle begins! Do you have out of home country insurance? Have you been gone too long and not realize you no longer have coverage? Is it a preexisting condition? Can you be treated where you are already hospitalized? Are you limited to only a transport to the closest facility capable of treating you? If any of those things are a possibility, you need Travel MedEvac! We'll get you home in an ICU equipped air ambulance with no co-pay, no deductible, no claim forms! Contact me for further information. Cathie Smith LoCicero, VIP Director Sales Mexico - Call me 575-993-8227 or email See our plans and other types of Mexico insurance at

Baja California Sur Facts Archeologists believe that humans entered the area of the southern peninsula around eleven thousand years ago. The state boasts various archeological sites like the Las Palmas site and the Comondu Complex. Early peoples in the region practiced hunting and gathering. By the time explorers and missionaries entered the region, they found such indigenous tribes as the Pericu, Monqui, the Guaycura, and the Cochimi. Initially explored by Hernan Cortes and Sebastian Vizcaino, the area was exceptionally difficult to colonize due to its lack of water, remote location, and hostile tribes. The first permanent settlement of the Baja California region was not founded until 1697 when the Jesuits built the Mision de Nuestra Senora de Loreto Concho. Eventually, the Jesuits moved southward into the Baja California Sur region. In time, the Franciscans replaced the Jesuits in the peninsula and they were later replaced by the Dominicans. While there were occasionally violent uprisings, the indigenous populations dwindled mainly due to European diseases. After the War for Independence, the peninsula was divided into territories until Baja California Sur finally became a state in the latter half of the twentieth century. Control of Baja California shifted between various groups in its early history and it was not admitted into Mexico as a state until 1952. In 1930, the Baja California peninsula was divided into northern and southern territories. However, in 1952, the northern region (everything above the 28th parallel) became the 29th state of Mexico, while southern areas remained as a territory.


October—November 2017

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Useful Conversions

To convert temperatures in degrees Celsius to Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8 and add 32

1 kilo = 2.2 lbs

1 gallon = 3.78 litres

Spring break meets snowbird season:

“Do you remember when I was your trophy wife and you were a stud?”

CALENDAR OF ACTIVITIES This is not all the activities, just the ones we know of right now!

OCTOBER 27th Rotary Fall Fishing Derby st 31 Halloween NOVEMBER 1st All Saints Day nd 2 All Souls Day Recycle Day – first Thursday of the month 2nd th 18 Community Market at LB City Park begins Market held every Saturday thru April th 20 Revolution Day Memorial 23rd Thanksgiving 25th Asociacion de Artes Fall Baseball Camp 25th Rotary Taste of East Cape 25th Baja Ha Ha Golf Tournament th East Cape Guild Baja Ha Ha 26 Golf Tournament DECEMBER 1st Fashion Show— benefits Pan de Vita 2nd Guild Christmas Party 3rd Asociacion de Artes Art Festival at Colina del Sol

October—November 2017

JANUARY 17th -21st La Ventana Classic 20th Rotary Winter Fest Dinner Auction FEBRUARY 7th Asociacion de Artes Artist Studio Tour 13th Fat Tuesday MARCH 9th Shakespeare Play Opening th 10 Shakespeare Play 11th Shakespeare Play th 14 Shakespeare Play 15th Shakespeare Play 16h Shakespeare Play h 16 New Creations Kids Auction 17th Shakespeare Play th 17 Rotary St. Patrick’s Day Bike Ralley 18th Asociacion de Artes Festival de Artes 23rd Monte Carlo Night APRIL 1st Easter


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Real Estate

Baja Properties 624-141-0075 Homes and Land of Baja US 310-494-5700 Bahia Real Estate 624-141-0277 Coldwell Banker 624-141-0808 Christine Rogers US cell 206-669-1695 Dede Bacon US cell 530-545-3407


East Cape Health Center 624-124-8203 East Cape Dental 624-141-0375 Salon de Cortez 624-124-8056 Permanent Make-up 624-414-0422 Solutions Clinica de Belleza 624-414-0422 Spa de Cortez Therapic Massage 624-160-1203


Awesome Charter Boats cell – 624-141-0231 Exo Kite US cell 541-380-0948 Awesome Horse Beach Rides 624-141-0231 Quad Girl cell– 624-154-7661

Where to Shop

La Buena Vida Mercantil (down street from Chapitos) Copper River Designs Jewelry 624-141-0014

Where to Eat

Caleb’s Café 624-141-0531 Located on Nov 20 Street Los Barriles Caffe Encinalito Located on Costa Brava Blvd Road Runner Café & Bakery Plaza del Pueblo Tea of Cortez (down street from Chapitos) Bajaus 624-124-8280


CMC Construction 624-124-8176 C & G Builders 624-124-8012 Robert Rosa Builder cell 624-175-4855 Unique Beautiful Livable Design cell 624-145-2750 ASM Windows and Doors cell 624-100-0516 Tejas El Guila - Tile 612-114-6622 Generac cell 624-129-6104 Vita Soil 612-119-8034


East Cape Vacation Rentals Wolf Property Management Casa Kootenau B&B Rancho La Venta Hacienda de Palmas

624-141-0381 624-124-8171 612-122-0006 612-156-2347 624-159-4855


Pay Dennis 624-141-0261 G & T Pest Control 624-121-6804 Wolf Property Management 624-124-8171 Beto Castor TV / Internet cell 624-958-2900 Pako Lael TV/Internet cell 624-958-2900 Oscar the Mechanic 624-117-3412


East Cape Community Fellowship Yoga Garden Healing Winds

Insurance & Legal

Cathie Smith Insurance Baja Legal

US 575-993-8227 612-136-4598

Cut out this page and keep it close at hand for the important numbers on it! 18

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Directory of Advertisers

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October—November 2017


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Felix the Cat Takes a Pill By: Renee Lagloire

August 21 Subject: Update on Felix the Cat You asked about Felix, the cat. He’s lookin’ good for an old man, didn’t you say he’s 9? His fur is black and shiny, and he’s eating and pooping, meowing, pretty much doing everything a cat should be doing. He’s favoring the coffee table that overlooks the garden on the second level of the house, so I put a bed there for him, and that’s where he can be found most of the time. From above, he tracks the birds and his archenemy, the cat that lives in the garden. He seems pretty content. August 24 Subject: Fleas meds and Felix the Cat Yesterday I found a flea in Felix’ drinking water. So that reminded me to give him the flea meds. I put him on top of the chest of drawers in your room, waist high so I could hold him against my body and get his mouth open to give him his pill. Shish!!! I really wrestled with him! It doesn’t help that he’s got buck teeth, buck canines! Who knew! I never noticed that before, those fangs actually hang over his chin! That flea pill was huge! I had to wedge it between his chin and those teeth! I tried to get it in his mouth three times but he was winning that battle. It’s not like he was silent through it all, either! No! There was a low growl emitting from that creature, primal stuff! It worked, I was intimidated!


After the third try, I was all sweaty because it was hot, and I was nervous. He’s a big dude, he has claws, and big teeth. We were both exhausted, and the pill was sitting between us where he’d dropped it. And that’s when he looked at me, bent down and ate three-quarters of it. Love this cat!!!! August 29 Subject: Felix visit Dr. Thomas As agreed, I took the cat to see Dr. Tomas this morning for his annual exam and shots. Poor Felix panted and meowed all the way there. He was not a happy dude! When I brought him into the waiting room he created quite a buzz. This cat is large by any standard, but in Mexico, he’s apparently a circus act! Soon he was surrounded by the four clients there and two staff, with the word “grandote” (loose translation, big guy) echoing through the room. Yep, a big cat! And he has those buck teeth which make him look goofy, and so endearing! Dr. Tomas said he’d had one cat in before that was bigger than Felix. He examined him, felt him up and down, stuck a thermometer in his rectum, gave him three injections and weighed him (15.3 lbs). I left with an official-looking immunization record. I knew to bring in a poop sample, and he said he’d be doing the analysis for parasites in the early afternoon. I’m to call him late afternoon and get the results. I’ll keep you posted. August 30 Subject: Felix has Parasites I made the call to Dr. Tomas yesterday for the lab results, and Continued on Page 21

October—November 2017

Read the color version online at Felix the Cat Continued from page 20

bummer, Felix has parasites. He needed meds so I went to see Dr. Tomas first thing this morning. Given my experience with the flea pill, I kept hoping the meds would be liquid, but no! He gave me two pills, one to be given tonight with dinner, and one in two weeks. I'm to crush the pill and put it into some tuna in oil. I’ll plan on giving him a bit of the tuna to see if he likes it, and once he’s accepted it, then I’ll spike it . September 2 Subject: Problems administering the freakin’ pill I made the call to Dr. Tomas yesterday for the lab results, and bummer, Felix has parasites. He needed meds so I went to see Dr. Tomas first thing this morning. Given my experience with the flea pill, I kept hoping the meds would be liquid, but no! He gave me two pills, one to be given tonight with dinner, and one in two weeks. I'm to crush the pill and put it into some tuna in oil. I’ll plan on giving him a bit of the tuna to see if he likes it, and once he’s accepted it, then I’ll spike it. September 3 Subject: Yeayyy This morning I made three unsuccessful attempts at giving Felix his pill, but decided I’d go for a fourth. As you suggested in your last e-mail, I got him onto your bed holding him down with my left arm. He was wrapped in a towel so he wouldn't scratch me, and I got the pill past his buckteeth. He spit the freakin’ thing out as he escaped. I was happy to find the pill but I was desperate and a bit irritated. I grabbed him, pulled his head back gently but firmly, put the pill back in his mouth, and he swallowed it while emitting that yawwwwww sound. I was left kinda shaky after four tries, but he swallowed it! Yeayyyyyyyy!!!!

October—November 2017

September 4 Subject: Confession After my gloating e-mail yesterday, I went back into the room. And there was the freakin’ pill!! I was more irritated than amused by then, as you can imagine, but I was still cool. The cat had no chance to evade me. I sneaked up on him, grabbed him, wrapped him in a towel, got that pill past the guardian buckteeth, and holding his head back, massaged his neck with a downward stroke to encourage swallowing of that pill, all in one beautiful continuous motion. And on the fifth try yesterday, he swallowed it! Yeayyyyyy! There’s a second pill to give him in two weeks. I’ll be ready by then. Or maybe not!

Cat Facts - Cats are North America’s most popular pets: there are 73 million cats compared to 63 million dogs. Over 30% of households in North America own a cat. - Cats make about 100 different sounds. Dogs make only about 10 - On average, cats spend 2/3 of every day sleeping. That means a nine-year-old cat has been awake for only three years of its life.


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Gringo Building in Mexico – The Final Chapter By: Christine Courtright

Our story left off last April with our casa with walls, ceiling, basic plumbing and electrical being pulled. The house still looked like a square box, nothing special in our opinion. The electrical is very different than stick frame, as the conduit lines for the electrical is put in as the blocks go up. Meaning you better make sure your plans have all the electrical you want in. Yes, they can break through the walls, but that is not the best option. We had to have a couple of switches moved over because they would be behind where I will place furniture. That is why, in my opinion as a designer, you should have the furniture placement figured out before you build – especially in a small house. Our electrician was accommodating and moved the switches…. understanding what I needed with my little Spanish. The tile went in during this period, the same for the inside/outside living areas and we love it. I left a ‘hole’ in the tile where I wanted a tile ‘area rug’ in the outside kitchen area. We used the same tile with a few different ones thrown in and it worked out great. There is even a link to the counter tile and my tiled cement sink- which is different… we like different. We are so impressed with the tile work. I wanted pebbles for my shower floor, so they took the main floor tile and cut it to ‘peb-


ble’ shapes. The casa flows with the same tile floors carried throughout, and that is so important in a small house. With the walls finished, I could visualize what the inside will look like, but outside was still a box. That is until the window and door details went up. Now, I told the builder I wanted it ‘rustico’ and to look like an old world casa and hoped he understood what I wanted. When the exterior details went up and the house was painted, and I saw, he totally understood. My casa looks like you could pick it up and move it to El Triunfo and it would fit just fine! We learned a big lesson building a small bodega. We wanted 5’ x 13’ and we got a beautiful bodega that was that side – measured from outside. Inside (less 6” walls) was 4’ x 12’. We did not make it clear 5 x 13 was inside measurements….we should have caught it on the drawings. But it turned out find and it is a great bodega. By now we have sold our old place and it is late May. We are usually in the States by now. Our new casa is not done and we are getting nervous that we will not get north until the end of July. We hoped to get home before it gets hot and humid. To us it looks like it will be many weeks before things are done. We talked to our builder about our worries, and things stepped up and he said we will be home before the end of June. We really saw things step up, and lots of weekend work being done and get us on our way. We came out twice a day because progress is moving fast and the last details are the ones that you see. The scrap pile removed, and the grading and fill moved in, it finally looked like a house and we could visualize Continued on page 23

October—November 2017

Read the color version online at Gringo Building Continued from page 22

what the finished product was going to be. Things moved fast, windows and doors were in and they are beautiful and look like old doors in really good condition! It is now mid June. We can lock the house up and we can get ready to head north. We are down to one worker doing little details, so we moved some of our stuff in. Workers are gone, the house is done, except for the final power. CFE has not given us a date to hook up and the final check can not be done until we have power. But we had to get north, so we left with no power to the house. We have water and we are absolutely thrilled with our house. Our casa is beyond our expectations and much nicer than we ever thought we could get in our tiny casa, and tiny budget yet, big idea. Over the summer our builder built our front wall and gates, again beautiful and will get on the case of CFE. Mid September, finally the conduit was ran and all the CFE had to do was pull the wire, install meter and we have power! Well, that was just a couple days before the tropical storm and the 27” of rain hit the region and took out power to entire towns – luckily no water damage to the house. Well, CFE is not going to worry about this new house with no one living it in when entire lines are down. We were just notified we have power! But to be safe, we are bringing a back up generator. When we return, we get to do the fun decorating part, unpacking, arranging and see what it is like to live in a real house with air conditioning in all rooms!

October—November 2017

In summary, we had the best building experience we have ever had... and we have had a few in the last 15 years. I do see that being there is a huge benefit, but if you pre-think about every detail and make sure that it is on the drawings; you should be fine – at least with my builder - likely other builders too. We went through C&G Builders and are impressed with Cesar and Carlos and how helpful and accommodating they were. We were super impressed with their crew as they hustled all the time, were polite and boy, they kept the job site clean! I worked with Homes and Land for the property purchase and was also happy with their service and help also. In conclusion, I can say that yes, there are horror stories and those are the building experiences that talk the loudest. We had a wonderful experience and would not hesitate to do it again. Big key, get a good builder, figure out all details in plan phase and be there as much as possible so you are there to answer questions and solve problems. Let your building begin!


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Volunteering in the Baja

Here are some of the opportunities you have to make a difference right here in our beautiful East Cape. This is some, but not all of the organizations. Give yourself some something to smile about and volunteer and have fun doing it. I guarantee it! Asociacion de Artes del Mar de Cortez AKA: the Art Association. The primary goal of the Association (a legal Mexican Nonprofit Corporation) is to provide art supplies to 19 East Cape Public Schools along with supporting activates for youth. Activities such as Baseball Camps, Cursos de Verano, Easter Sports (Semana Santa) to name a few. Moneys to support this is all done through putting on 3 art related events: December Art Show, Artist Studio Tour and the big Spring Art Festival. Not only does our activities help provide the necessary funds for the things we support, but we help the artists of the Baja have an opportunity to sell their wares. For more details, contact us at: Rotary International: Might take a full page to write all that the Rotary does for our community. From orphanages, to water, Mardi Gras parade, to our LB fountain. Contact: East Cape Recycling Center (ECRC): There is not organized recycling here in the Baja. If we want our paradise to remain so, we need to make sure the landfills are not full of recyclable items. The center located at East Cape RV Park with the recycle day being the first Thursday of each month. Contact: Holly - Caps for Cancer: Knit or crochet? Caps and blankets made to share with local hospitals for cancer patients and others who need something to keep them warm! Contact: Annette New Creations Kids. Help make lives better for the children of the orphanage in La Paz. For information see their website. East Cape Guild: To go to school above the 8th grade, it costs in Mexico. The Guild has a scholarship program. They are the group behind the Monte Carlo Night that we all love, among other great activities! Contact: Irene Baja Shakespeare: They put on one play a year. Act, sing, back stage, create sets, etc. Contact: ALMA - Animal Lovers of Mexico Association: SNAP - Spay, Neuter and Prevention: Just as the name indicates, that is the mission of SNAP with bi-yearly clinics and year-round education. Contact: San Antonio Cultural Center: Located in San Antonio, a center to teach arts, crafts and other cultural arts to the residents of the area. They are always looking for supplies and volunteer teachers to teach their skills. Ages range from Kindergarten to adults. Contact. Maryzonia at Baja Sports Mexico: Bringing sports activities to the local youth and working towards a sports complex here in Los Barriles. Contact: Ken at

Pan de Vida (Bread of Life) Supplying food to local families . Check out our Facebook Page ( FeedingTheHungryLosBarriles) for contacts, details and updates!!

So, look over the list, decide where you will fit best and get out there and have some fun volunteering and doing someone some good here in the Baja. I think they call it paying it forward!


October—November 2017

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Casa Kootenay By: Joy Travel

The name may carry British Columbian roots, but Casa Kootenay is all about La Paz, Mexico. It is only a few steps from the Sea of Cortez and all that pristine waters can offer, this 4-room bed and breakfast in the California Baja Sur turns a vacation into an adventure. When it’s time to play, grab a Casa Kootenay paddle board or kayak that come as part of the package. Snorkel near an old sunken ship, then cross the bay to journey through the mangrove habitat where unusual and beautiful wildlife make their home. And look out for the dolphins as you venture on! They like to show up and show off – unexpectedly. Spend your down time in a newly renovated room with sunset view, partial ocean view, a private bathroom with plush towels and robes. The beds are super comfy and the place is quiet, with the well-tended gardens and pool/ jacuzzi providing a retreat-style atmosphere. Climb the stairs that lead to the grand terrace where views of the bay and the city can leave you breathless, especially at sunset. It’s so awesome at night that owner Leanne Vanderkooi added a king-sized canopy bed so guests can enjoy an open-air overnight escapade under the La Paz stars -- an experience found nowhere else in the world. You’ll often find Canadian-born Leanne in the salon of the main house, which features art and décor from her 10plus years of traveling and scuba adventures in Europe, Latin America, Asia and beyond. But she seems happiest in her oversized kitchen preparing “desayuno” from her heart while having casual conversation with guests. Come to breakfast hungry, because Leanne serves fresh fruits, cereal, yogurt, homemade pastries and hearty

whimsical morning dishes from an ever-changing global menu. And yes, she honors the comfort foods: pancakes, French toast and an abundance of bacon or sausage. Hospitality runs in Leanne’s family, with her parents owning and operating hotels during her growing years, including a popular place in the Kootenays. At age 18, Leanne opted for life on a boat and started a career under the sea as a scuba diver and instructor. In 2011, Leanne’s more than 50,000 underwater hours helped fund her entrepreneurial dream of opening a B&B that would evolve into a Mexico travel destination. Since then, Leanne’s waterfront inn has become a multicultural melting pot for people all over the world who need a little rest but want and a lot of fun. Casa Kootenay is also near the center of fun and beauty in the City of La Paz, including the waterfront boardwalk called The Malecon. And Leanne knows where all the good restaurants are, where there’s a good party, and the best tour operators that will connect you with whales, whale sharks, sea lions, flying manta rays and white sandy beaches for catered lunches.

October—November 2017


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October—November 2017

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Why Should You Get Insurance in Mexico? By: Ruth Ryan

Well, the obvious answer is: Because Accidents Happen! And by their nature, you can't plan for them, but only react. The time to "plan" is before you are in the midst of a crisis and need to act immediately. So, back to a fundamental question, why not have International Health Insurance established for accidents that happen regardless of your location, economic or current health status? As you travel you will learn that most medical facilities are private, require payment up front and do not accept US Domestic Insurance, Medicaid or Medicare with most supplements. If emergency air transport is your choice then TravelMedEvac is the gold standard. Here in Baja we now can boast of our first-rate state of the art Hospital H+ in San Jose. With numerous highly qualified doctors, specialists, and nurses available, state of the art equipment and clinical specialty offices many options are available. Our new office, East Cape Health Clinic International Health Insurance located in the Dental Clinic is now partnered with fantastic new companies offering products backed by strong Global Companies with extensive provider networks. Inside or outside your country of residence we provide you access to the medical care you need. Our health plans cross the borders offering exclusive multi-lingual staff available 24* with focus on personal attention and quality of service when you need it most. We will be happy to work with you to get the policy that fits your needs and those of your family. We are able to offer first-hand stories of people in the community who have received excellent medical attention at East Cape Health Center and our receiving Hospital H+ for planned and emergency surgical procedures. H+ offers standard pricing and utilize insurance whenever possible. If you are interested in one success story, please contact Char at One remarkable save. Your health and well-being are the most important thing you have for you and your family. Treat it wisely.

October—November 2017

The Importance of Planning Ahead By Char Wenger

East Cape Health Center, going on 5 years strong as the medical hub serving the East Cape Community. Uniquely situated between SJC and La Paz, located in Plaza Libertad, our medical and dental clinic are about to merge. Offering programs for the community at large, we also provide medical and dental care for all the children at no cost for the families. With unprecedented one on one health educational programs, we offer the same to all age levels in the schools. By allowing new opportunities for children, we feel we make a significant difference. We seldom miss offering innovative ways to open their eyes, minds, and hearts to conscious healthy living, which contributes to their overall health and welfare. Empowering the less financially fortunate or providing those children in neglected, abusive homes, we feel this is a contribution for our next best generation to lead our community. But, we need continuous funding.

Our goal has always been to provide a unique preventative children's health program along with affordable medical and dental care to the families and Expats in the area. Our local diagnostics are complete, including X-Ray, Ultrasound, Laboratory and full Pharmacy with the available special order, name brand and con trolled medications for your convenience. Each season, as we meet more and more newcomers to the East Cape, we realize another clinic expansion is essential for our success. Growth in the community has given us more reasons to improve and expand our medical and dental services. Our expansion focusses this year is to better equip and enlarge our emergency room, improve our diagnostic capability, offer medical specialists office space, including a new optical center and International Health Insurance office. By creating professional space for specialists, EMERGENCY Information Center and enrollment of International Health Insurance, we are hopeful this topic will be taken very seriously. Considering coverage with one of our many International Health Insurance Plans and or TravelMedEvac, the gold standard in the Medical evacuation, we hope to consider all the needs of Expats living abroad. The proposed site for medical expansion is the corner unit next to our existing clinic this would allow space for our Dental Clinic to relocate into our existing space. This will allow for better continuity of care utilizing our solar panels and generator to benefit us in this area of the plaza. Please join in our efforts by considering tax-deductible contributions to International Community Foundation ( ) contact Alana Ortiz email: ph: 619-336-2255 or Char Wenger email: ph: 624-157-0081. Please stop by the clinic for more details ph: 124-8203


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Baja’s Wild Side Exposed By: Gary Graham

Rumors of an impending book, Baja’s Wild Side, reached my desk recently and I was eager to learn all I could about it. I immediately called an Outdoor Writer (OWAC) buddy, Diana Lindsey, owner of the Sunbelt Publishing Company and publisher of Baja’s Wild Side, to get the scoop on the impending publication. She was as eager to talk about as I was to hear about it. While I had never met the writer, PhD shark biologist, Daniel Cartamil of Scripps Institute of Oceanography personally, his reputation preceded him. An enthusiastic photographer and passionate conservationist, Cartamil’s research brought him to one of the wildest and most remote pieces of Baja California’s Pacific coast regions, one seldom visited by many tourists. There he developed a unique relationship with a local fisherman providing him unparalleled access to natural places still untouched by the progress of many parts of Baja. On a personal note, on my very first drive down Mex 1, shortly after the road was completed with a couple of buddies and after a longer-than-it-should-have-been lunch at Mama Espinosa’s restaurant in El Rosario, on the recommendation of Mama Espinosa, herself, https:// we ventured west on a marginal dirt road toward Punta Baja to camp overnight near a local fish camp. Arriving at dusk we turned southward and camped on a deserted beach. Baja or not, the early morning was overcast and chilly … not exactly what we expected. However, we did warm up to the view featured on the as well as page 49 of the book, Baja’s Wild Side, before we resumed our Baja adventure south on Mex 1 in

search of the Baja sun we had been promised. Like many others, then and now, good fishing and sunny days were the nirvana sought; like horses headed for the barn with blinders on, so it was pedal to the metal until we found it! In our case, Loreto and Nopolo Cove satisfied our blended expectations that first trip. Sure, there were a few side trips, here and there … Laguna Manuela for one, plus Magdalena Bay. Next it was Cabo San Lucas (Santa Maria Cove) and camping on the beach when it was still pristine, long before it was developed. We ended up leaving my 23-foot Blackman skiff in Cabo for several years and flew back and forth to enjoy Baja. That was, until we settled in the Buena Vista area and ultimately at Rancho Deluxe at East Cape in the late eighties. Still speeding to our destination and ignoring the many side trips other than M agdalena Bay. It wasn’t until 2007 that Rancho Deluxe was purchased by a developer and we purchased the Roadtrek. At last, we began slowing down and exploring interesting side trips off the familiar beaten path of Mex 1. Cartamil’s Baja’s Wild Side, with its 100 spectacular photographs of remote landscapes, wildlife, and cultural treasures, along with observations and stories, reminds us there is an unexplored area of Baja’s Pacific coastline, from the high sierra, to the ancient cave paintings hidden deep in the desert, to the surfpounded Pacific, all begging to be explored. For those of you who are still in a rush to get to your favorite spot at every opportunity, I get it. I’ve been there, done that … and would do it all over again if I had the opportunity. But I recommend you pick up a copy of Cartamil’s Baja’s Wild Side for your coffee table for future reference when Continued on Page 29


October—November 2017

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you slow down a tad. This is a “show and tell” book that will remind you that you are missing out on a very unique part of Baja to the west as you zoom by El Rosario, seeking more of the Baja you’ve learned to love. Regardless of your personal favorite, one thing is certain; it has changed dramatically since you first discovered it. Don’t miss the opportunity to view some of the Baja coastline although threatened, still remains pristine by comparison: Perhaps, first by picking up a copy of Daniel Cartamil’s magnificent contribution about a relatively small, seldom-visited part of Baja’s west coast.

HOWEVER WE DID warm up to the view featured on the https:// as well as page 49 of the book.

Caps for Cancer Baja By: Annette Kaiser

What a great group of over 40 women who volunteer their time and talent to make caps, blankets, booties and ponchos for kids with cancer and heart disease in Mexico. This groups is growing rapidly and has donated over a thousand, hand-made articles to patients in Salviterra Hospital in La Paz, their Casa Valentina (like Ronald Mc Donald houses in the U.S.) In addition, donations have been given to the cancer clinic in Mexicalli and others on the mainland of Mexico. Last December, ladies from the East Cape held a rummage sale in La Riviera, which raised enough money to keep us in yarn for the next year, we hope! We have been fortunate to have numerous donations of yarn over the past year, which helps stretch our resources, for which we are grateful.. A number of artisans in the U.S have also donated a beautiful collection of hats and blankets for distribution. We are always looking for those who knit and crochet, to join our group. If you have an interest please consider attending one of our meetings. There is no charge for joining and yarn is provided free. Check on Facebook Capsforcancerbaja. Contact Annette October—November 2017


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Yoga and Wellness Grows in the East Cape Community

By: Theresa Comber Strength and Balance. Wellness and Fortitude. Awareness and Compassion are all great attributes associated with people who practice yoga. They are also great attributes to underscore a healthy community. For the past 14 years, people in the East Cape have had the benefit of regularly practicing together to grow personally and to extend themselves to positively affect not just their bodies, but our entire community. And now, our yoga influence is growing even further with the opening of a new studio and a yoga inspired clothing store. Financial magazine Kiplingers says that wellness tourism, in which yoga plays a major role, represents more than $563 billion in global revenue and is growing 15% per year. This growth is attributed to baby boomers adopting a healthier lifestyle to avoid the rising costs of health care. Clearly, wellness tourism, and simply adopting a wellness lifestyle, is ripe with opportunity in the East Cape. Yet yoga had humble beginnings in Los Barriles, starting in a small, open air palapa donated for class time with Jackie Reeves, a deeply experienced and gracious teacher. Leading and inspiring students to join her ‘on the mat’, Jackie Reeves reflected a yoga lifestyle. Quickly class demand outstripped mat space so Tehroma Lask, of UBL Designs, built the first yoga center, ‘Healing Winds’ found at the top of town and a bit further past the Los Barriles delegation building. As more joined yoga at the new center, demand continued; other healthy exercise options like Pilates, Strength Training and Ball Classes were added, and demand again was outstripping mat space and often classes were at capacity with students outside in the foyer. With her own humble yoga story dating back to ashrams in India that has led to 35 years of yoga instruction, opportunity was knocking for Jackie to start her own studio and in November students of all levels – from stiff guys to limber ladies, newbies to lifelong practitioners will find more mat space at the newly constructed ‘Yoga Garden’ located in the center of town near the ‘Parque Laguna’. Obviously comfortable clothes are a requisite for yoga practice, but yoga clothes have stretched well past the classroom to become the go to fashion choice for a huge swath of the fit and getting fit population. At the bottom of a 1000-mile peninsula, finding great yoga clothes, mats and accessories will now just be an ATV ride away with the new ‘Chakra Yoga’ store Megan O’Leary of Exotikite fame is opening on Costa Brava Blvd near El Encinalito Coffee Now from early in the morning to late in the day there’s an opportunity for everyone to fashionably find their way to a class, either at Healing Winds or the Yoga Garden. Jackie Reeves, Megan O’Leary, Sefi Held, Tehroma Lask and Sarah Van Der Stad will all graciously add strength and balance, wellness and fortitude, awareness and compassion to your life and for sure to our community.


October—November 2017

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The Intimate and True Adventures of “El Ballenero” By Urmas Kaldveer, PhD

Episode 16 How are the whales doing? As might be expected there is an unfortunate opposing (but not necessarily intentional) relationship between humans and whales. The bottom line, as I explained to my students over and over again, is that as the human population goes up the populations of all other natural animals will go down. There are many reasons for this but generally the most often cited are habitat destruction, pollution and over hunting (commercial). In the case of the marine mammals such as whales and dolphins it is particularly hard to fully observe the consequences of the above basic factors on their health and numbers or to recognize (until only recently) their more subtle contribution to the biospheric cycles, ie: the whales contribution to oxygen/carbon dioxide balance in the atmosphere and acid build up in the oceans. By nature they are difficult to track and observe. 90% of their life takes place under the surface even though they are an air breathing mammal. Some of the more obvious and devastating of these consequences on their well being are boat strikes and entanglement in longlines, drift nets and gill nets. It is critical to understand that though the oceans are large, the migratory routes, feeding grounds and breeding grounds of the whales are limited to the continental

gill net controls loosened or completely rescinded. This will greatly increase boat strikes and entanglements of whales (as well as all other species) which are the main causes of whale deaths here in our area. As you can imagine; after working with whales for the past 35 years, I am deeply concerned, disappointed and yes, angry that all that work that has come before me and the work I have been honored to do with Dr. Urban here in the east cape may be in jeopardy because of the shortsightedness and plain ignorance of the current U.S. administration. So……where do we stand right now in terms of the whale populations in our area. You be the judge as the restrictions continue to be lifted. The counting of whales will continue to be the bottom line on our knowledge of the whale’s overall health; all one has to do is pay attention to those increasing (or decreasing) numbers. I would like to address the humpback situation first because it is the species most often seen here in the east cape and depending on my wordiness I may have to address the other species in the next article. Our current northern east pacific humpback population (those whales that migrate from our area to the arctic and back) seem to be doing pretty well. So……where do we stand right now in terms of the whale populations in our area. You be the judge as the restrictions continue to be lifted. The counting of whales

shelves (or large islands such as The Hawaiian Archipelago) where vast numbers of a majority of marine species spend their time. This is why the coral reefs are so important - they are the “nurseries” for a majority of the animals that provide the base of the oceans food chain ( new research is beginning to show the until now not fully appreciated importance of the microscopic organisms, ie: phytoplankton, of the sea both for food and gas exchange). The fight to protect and preserve these great AND IMPORTANT creatures has been going on since the 1960’s and a great deal of progress, though slow, has in fact occurred. Here on the east cape Dr. Jorge Urban’s work has resulted in clearly established guidelines and protected areas to insure the sustainability of our humpback population (second largest in the north pacific). Unfortunately, the current U.S. administration has shown little or no interest in preserving the oceans whale population. Protected areas are being reevaluated, long line restrictions minimized and both drift and October—November 2017


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will continue to be the bottom line on our knowledge of the whale’s overall health; all one has to do is pay attention to those increasing (or decreasing) numbers. I would like to address the humpback situation first because it is the species most often seen here in the east cape and depending on my wordiness I may have to address the other species in the next article Our current northern east pacific humpback population (those whales that migrate from our area to the arctic and back) seem to be doing pretty well. The largest study ever done of whale numbers anywhere took place here in the north pacific during the three years of the SPLASH program that I talked about in a previous article. The results of that study, of which I was honored to be a part of Dr. Urban’s Mexican “team”, showed a humpback population of between 6 -7,000 breeding/calving here in Mexican waters and a total of between 18-20,000 for the north pacific as a whole. Good but hardly the numbers (150-200,000) estimated before the advent of commercial whale hunting. Still, a viable breeding population. They had dropped to 1600 before regulations began to be implemented in 1966. So, yes they are coming back. Unfortunately there is still a strong commercial faction that wishes to take them off the ESA (endangered species act) endangered species list and allow hunting to resume. The current health and 7-14% growth rate of the population in the last few years is also the basis for this administrations apparent willingness to take them off the endangered list and not only allow hunting but by limiting restrictions on longlines, drift nets and gill .

nets as well as ignoring the larger and larger number of boat strikes is setting up a return to a pre-protection era. The human population has grown since then too so there are more nets, boats and pollution than before – this is not the time to take our humpbacks off the list

As I propose in my book, THE OTHERS “The Whale People”, these are creatures of high intelligence and it is a crime to kill them whether by intent or by neglect

Baja California Sur Facts Baja California is extremely biodiverse along its coasts. The Nature Conservancy calls the region "The World's Aquarium" as the Gulf of California and Baja California's shores are home to onethird of Earth's marine mammal species. California sea lions live on the state's islands while various types of whales, including the blue whale, breed in the region's waters. It is believed that people first settled on the Baja Peninsula around 1,000 years ago and that the region was dominated by only a few Native American groups. Europeans did not reach the area until 1539.


October—November 2017

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"Life Interrupted" By: Char Wenger

While enjoying my time in Baja and as most of you know, rushing through life with my blinders on, building healthcare for the community, assisting with emergencies to help save lives, comforting hurt soles, selling health insurance and bringing health awareness for the children when it all came to a sudden stop. In Sept 2016, life was interrupted when I stepped on my garden hose and sustained a terrible backward fall injury in my yard. Just recovering, came another fall in April 2017, when my beloved four-legged friend, Mr. Brown, stepped in front of me this time causing me to fall forward. I was evaluated with MRI and cleared, but as the months progressed, I was developing very unusual symptoms. My spinal scoliosis, the significance of which defied my awareness, began to shift and turn. Little did I know those two major falls in Sept and April would have such a permanent impact on my future. With two lower lumbar vertebrae crushed and now impact injury to my upper lumbar, the shifting continued to cause a noticeable strange twisting and turning of my spine. 

Not until mid-July when a complete collapse occurred did it grab my full attention. Under the direction of Dr. Toledo, I was transported to the H+ ER and soon after stabilized. I was so I was fortunate to meet up with a new H+ Neurosurgeon, Dr. Raul Rincon who teamed with Drs. Luis Cardenas, and Edgar Villalobos, the best of the best Spinal Specialists in Cabo San Lucas and SJC. They asked me to undergo a lengthy procedure to reconstruct 

my spine. I agreed to this "first of its kind" procedure, so we quickly moved forward. It took the skilled staff at H+ emergency room to gently move me to the radiologists who identified with their new 3D CAT Scan my hidden fractures, herniations and collapse on the upper level of my lumbar spine and compression fractures of my lower spine. Then off to room #204 under the care of the outstanding nurses who kept me comforted while I waited for the operation. ten was no small feat when nerve pain is involved. Within the time it took to bring in the rods and screws from Jalisco, another day passed. I learned that the OR was busy sterilizing all the equipment and included the two long titanium rods and screws when they arrived. Dr. Truijilo, the anesthesiologist, was frantic trying to keep me calm by managing my pain and call in all his resources to obtain the four units of O+ blood necessary for my procedure. A difficult task when blood is such a scarcity in the Baja. Once the room was ready I was prepared for the OR team and ready to begin the procedure. By then it was 9 pm Sunday 23 July when I turned myself over to the entire staff at H+. They were all on board to perform this 12-hour miracle face-down procedure to repair my injuries. The bone fragments that were lodged and pushed against my spinal cord were easily visualized using the sophisticated microscopic towers which gave the Doctors the visibility they needed. Then the delicate procedure of removing the bone fragments from my spine without causing any insult to my spinal cord. Doctors placed a "cage" in the available space that once was occupied by disc materials in my upper lumbar spine. Once completed, the rods were placed down both sides of my vertebrae and anchored with screws. One by

Continued on page 33

 Located next to East Cape Health Center

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one the tedious job of hand drilling the hardware to my vertebrae while bending for several hours was the toughest job yet. To finish off the process they used Cadevar bone and my serum to make glue to fuse my spine before the closure, another long, tedious job of sewing by hand all the layers of muscle and tissue. I was stapled in the end to make a clean closure, and after 12 hours the team felt this was a great success. I went from Recovery to ICU for three days and eventually back to room #204. Recuperating under the care of the gentle nursing staff was the encouraging part for me, they were so very attentive and kind. The true test was my first time standing. Less than ten days post op, Dr. Rincon came in one morning and placed me in a brace that would become part of my underwear for the next year. He strapped me in and confidently hoisted me out of bed. Once standing, much to our surprise, we both realized I had gained a full 2 inches in height. His first comments “I did not intend to straighten your spinal scoliosis and make you tall, but only to repair your injuries." Another side benefit

of Neurosurgery for the elderly. Just the sheer joy of feeling my feet on the ground again and wiggling all my toes overwhelmed my senses. We walked across the room less than ten days after my surgery, and it seemed like a miracle. Of major importance, daily visits by Drs. Cardenas, Rincon, and Villalobos reassuring me to be strong kept me confident. Physical Therapy began right away and even a mental health therapist to help me work through my apprehensions. My thanks start at East Cape Health Center as the first responders, Dr. Enrique Toledo, Edgar Lucero and Marcos Ortiz made sure my transport was with the utmost care. The entire staff at H+ for their compassion and professionalism and the skilled surgeons with state of the art equipment. They have once again earned my most profound trust. Of real impact here, I merely showed my International Health Insurance card, and my expenses were utterly taken care of by the administration. What a comforting feeling when faced with an actual emergency. Let me encourage everyone listening that Ruth and I are always available to help with your Insurance needs. The less financial stress in an already stressful situation I find personally find reassuring. Life now goes on...... uninterrupted. Our work continues as we to improve the health and wellbeing of the children. We target those with poor oral hygiene and health issues before they become chronic all while building selfesteem. My frantic call for help with the expansion and success of our community clinic is real. I ask you all to consider contributing to our cause. We need more space to continue the children's programs, at the same time assisting the locals and expats with emergency and primary care. We are attracting medical specialists that are in high demand, but we need more office space. Please help us to grow into a larger area for our health center. 

Tax-deductible contributions can be made through Char at East Cape Health Center ( 624-157-0081 and International Community Foundation ( contact Alana Ortiz 619-336-2255. We need your support to make this happen.  


October—November 2017

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October—November 2017


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October—November 2017

Issue 80 oct 2017 east capers magazine  

East Capers Magazine - the East Cape area of Baja California Sur. Find out what is going on for the area in this first issue of the 2017...

Issue 80 oct 2017 east capers magazine  

East Capers Magazine - the East Cape area of Baja California Sur. Find out what is going on for the area in this first issue of the 2017...