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SUMMER 2017

Discover where to eat and what to do in Dallas

Explore the NYC you’ve seen on the silver screen

EASY ROAD TRIP S

SUMMER 2017 lonelyplanet.com

SUMMER ROAD TRIPS

Hit the road – it’s

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AMERICAN DINERS //

COOL GEAR FOR A HOT SUMMER

SUMMER IN

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WILD AND WONDERFUL YELLOWSTONE

AMERICA

f rom coast to coast

+

MEET

the artisans of the new West

GET LOST

in the beauty of Yellowstone

TOUR

America’s favorite ballparks

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Specializing in imaginative and surprising moments ARUBA | COLOMBIA | COSTA RICA | DOMINICAN REPUBLIC | ECUADOR EL SALVADOR | GUATEMALA | MEXICO | NICARAGUA | PANAMA

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$1,000 USD Resort Credit is valid for travel through Dec. 31, 2017 at select Barceló Hotel Group properties, and will be granted to the guest in discounts of up to 25% off. Resort Credit discounts are only applicable upon the acquisition of different services or products within the resort(s), up until the stated limit is reached. Resort Credit Discounts have no cash value and no unused portion may be refunded. Terms, conditions and restrictions may apply. Offer, inclusions, blackout dates, and availability are subject to change without prior notice. Not responsible for errors or omissions.


Contents Summer 2017 / Volume 3 / Number 2

Features

62

44

Come along on a tour of the world’s first national park: Yellowstone, a land of grizzlies, wolves and bison, boiling mud pools and explosive geysers.

The unforgiving Nevada landscape produces a dazzling array of artisans and is home to an intriguing mix of cultures.

Wild & Unspoiled

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Stories of some of America’s greatest baseball stadiums from the people who live and breathe the nation’s favorite pastime.

Join us on a cinematic tour around this leading lady of cities, where gangsters, detectives and romcom couples rub shoulders with the likes of Spider-Man and King Kong.

COVER IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES/ MUNDUSIMAGES; THIS PAGE: GETTY IMAGES/SHAN.SHIHAN

Take Me Out to the Ball Game

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Art & Culture of the New West

Starring New York

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The Photographer’s Story /

American Diner New York-based photographer Andrew Hetherington takes us on a coast-to-coast tour of diners.

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Great Escape /

Cyclades Start your Greek odyssey in Athens before island-hopping between a string of beautiful and varied Aegean Islands. //Cover photo: Yosemite National Park in California; this page: boats in the bay off the coast of the Greek Island of Mykonos

All prices correct at press time. Prices for hotel rooms are for double, en suite rooms in low season, unless otherwise stated. Flight prices are for the least expensive round-trip ticket.

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Contents Summer 2017 / Volume 3 / Number 2

Globetrotter p. 11 Travel News Postcards Reader images: sunrise at Bryce Canyon and sunset at Yosemite. Travel Icon New York’s Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, a Frank Lloyd Wright masterpiece. Fair Food A look at some of the quirkier items showing up on midways across America. 7 New Ways Philadelphia in a new light. A Taste of Dallas David Uygur of Lucia on what to eat, see and do in the Big D.

Gear Summer essentials to beat the heat. Amazing Places to Stay Accommodations with great water views. Insider Knowledge Street art and five great spots to watch this summer’s total solar eclipse. // Clockwise from

top left: The frequently erupting Strokkur, one of Iceland’s most famous geysers; a dish from Bolsa in Dallas; in New Orleans’s French Quarter

Easy Trips p. 37

Ideas for summer road trips in Los Angeles, Vermont, Colorado and along the Georgia coast.

Mini Guides p. 98

New York / Cocktails, craft beers and more in the Big Apple. New Orleans / Creole and Cajun food, pub fare and local favorites. Tampa / Unexpected destinations for a threeday weekend. Iceland / A spectacular budget-friendly tour. Malaysia / A nature lover’s paradise. Glasgow / Art, design, performance and creative dining in Scotland’s biggest city.

Back Page p. 112

Chris Andrews discusses his walk across America.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK/SERGEY DIDENKO; JERSEAN GOLATT; GETTY IMAGES/ GRANT FAINT

Summer of Love A look back at the 1967 counterculture event that changed the world.

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Contents DESTINATION INDEX Canada Quebec / 32 Greece / 85 Iceland / 105 Malaysia / 109 Mexico / 32 Scotland /109 United States California Berkeley / 28, 82 Los Angeles / 38 Oakland / 29 Rancho Palos Verdes / 33 San Francisco / 28, 60 Yosemite National Park / 14 Colorado Durango / 41 Mesa Verde National Park / 41 Ouray / 41 Telluride / 41 Connecticut Middletown / 82 Florida Tampa / 103 Georgia

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Brunswick / 42 Darien / 42 Jekyll Island / 43 Little St. Simons Island / 43 Savannah / 42 Sea Island / 43 St. Simons Island / 43 Idaho Snake River Valley / 34 Yellowstone National Park / 62 Illinois Carbondale / 34 Chicago / 61 Louisiana New Orleans / 101 Massachusetts Boston / 59 Michigan Detroit / 58 Missouri /34 Nevada Elko / 44 New York New York City / 19, 72, 99 North Carolina Great Smoky Mountains National Park / 34

Oregon Madras / 34 Pennsylvania Frackville / 83 Philadelphia / 22 Pittsburgh / 59 Tennessee Great Smoky Mountains National Park / 34 Texas Dallas / 24 Utah Bryce Canyon National Park / 16 Vermont Bennington / 83 Killington / 40 Stowe / 40 Waterbury / 40 Weston / 40 Wilmington / 40 Wyoming Yellowstone National Park / 62 // An artisan at the Cowboy Poetry Gathering in Elko, Nevada

AUBRIE PICK

Summer 2017 / Volume 3 / Number 2

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OUR STORY

Group Editor Peter Grunert Managing Editor Rebecca Warren Art Director Kristina Juodenas Operations Manager Scott Toncray Copy Editor Cindy Guier Designer Dustin Johnson ADVERTISING

VP, Client Solutions, U.S. José Barreiro, jose.barreiro@lonelyplanet.com Advertising Sales, U.S. Cathy Allendorf, cathy.allendorf@lonelyplanet.com Britta Bakos, britta.bakos@lonelyplanet.com Jill Dillingham, jill.dillingham@lonelyplanet.com Director, Account Management Jennifer Pentes Senior Manager, Ad Operations Emily Acker PUBLISHED BY LONELY PLANET GLOBAL, INC.

Chief Executive Officer Daniel Houghton Chief Financial Officer Theo Sathananthan VP, Client Solutions Tim Daugherty Editorial Director Tom Hall Managing Director, Publishing Piers Pickard Senior Legal Counsel Kate Sullivan U.S. Controller Bryon Broich

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. That’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime, across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1,500 copies, and Lonely Planet was born. Founded by the Wheelers in 1973, Lonely Planet has gone on to become the world’s leading travel media company, inspiring and informing travelers across the globe. Our expert writers go in search of the best experiences, sharing award-winning travel information in more than 130 million guidebooks printed so far – covering almost every destination on the planet – as well as on lonelyplanet.com, on social channels including Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, in our Guides app and in this magazine.

FOLLOW US Website | lonelyplanet.com

COMMUNICATIONS AND MARKETING

Director of Global Communications Laura Lindsay Director of Marketing, U.S. Katie Coffee Senior Public Relations Manager, U.S. Natalie Nicolson Marketing Manager, U.S. Ashley Garver CONSUMER MARKETING: CIRCULATION SPECIALISTS, LLC

Account Director John LeBrun For newsstand inquiries ron@nps1.com PRODUCTION: PUBLISHING EXPERTS, INC.

Director of Manufacturing & Distribution Catherine Fick Production Manager Kady Francesconi For ad copy inquiries kadyf@publishingexperts.com

SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES

Direct all inquiries, address changes and subscription orders to Lonely Planet, PO Box 37520, Boone, IA 50037-0520. You may also access customer service via the web at lonelyplanet.com/usmagazine/customerservice, via email at lnpcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com or by phone at 800-829-9121. Lonely Planet is published by Lonely Planet Global, Inc. (part of the Lonely Planet Group). The words “Lonely Planet” and the Lonely Planet symbol are trademarks of Lonely Planet Global, Inc. © Lonely Planet Global, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without permission. Where you see the word “PROMOTION” this indicates that an article is a commercial feature paid for by the advertiser, not an editorial piece produced by Lonely Planet. All articles marked are subject to regulation by the Federal Trade Commission.

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2016 min’s Magazine Media Awards, Best New Magazine 2016 Folio: Eddie Award, Series of Articles Member of Alliance for Audited Media Printed in the United States

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Editor’s Note

@peter_grunert

ILLUSTRATION OF LAURÈNE BOGLIO BY LAURÈNE BOGLIO; IMAGE OF JERSEAN GOLATT COURTESY OF JERSEAN GOLATT

@petervg73

My grandfather Joe was an airline pilot. Back in the 1950s, his was an improbably exotic vocation. He flew flying boats, vast propeller-driven Lockheed Constellations and then, at the dawn of the jet age, Boeing 707s. These shining aircraft transported his young family to locations across the globe: from London to Sydney, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Honolulu and San Francisco. Joe’s wanderlust never eased once he hit the ground. In an era before most cars had air conditioning, he took his wife and two sons on epic road trips across the Australian Outback and through the heart of America. Peter’s uncle Al One of my happiest early memories is of exploring America’s and grandmother national parks, albeit not in person. I grew up in the sleepiest Mary with their Beetle in small town imaginable, rarely venturing far but often looking in Yosemite, 1961 awe through piles of Joe’s old photos. My favorite series of these covers a journey from the San Francisco Bay Area across the Rockies to Reno, his VW Beetle passing giant sequoias, marauding bears and open desert – all captured in pastel-tinged Kodachrome. I hope the excitement my grandfather’s family felt on first witnessing those scenes also courses through the pages of this issue of Lonely Planet magazine. Our writers and photographers work in partnership to deliver authentic and sometimes mind-blowing views of the places they love. Through celebrating summer in America – our cover theme – we find ourselves standing at the edge of Yellowstone’s psychedelic Grand Prismatic Spring, and hear from a ranger dedicated to preserving America’s original national park (p. 62). We head west to Nevada, to meet the artisans keeping exquisite traditional crafts alive (p. 44). And we pass between the icons and hidden backstreets of New York, to outline a tour of the city’s greatest movie locations (p. 72). Lonely Planet has a 44-year heritage of encouraging and inspiring travelers, underscored by the belief that thoughtful travel is a force for good. If you identify with our values, please support us by taking out a subscription; you’ll find our best offer on p. 17.

Union Square, San Francisco, photographed by Peter’s grandfather Joe

Peter Grunert, Group Editor

Contributors

Laurène Boglio Illustrator Contributed to “Rooting for the Home Team” p. 56

I am an illustrator and am passionate about old buildings and architecture. As a keen traveler, I always enjoy seeing how local architecture reflects the identity of the places I am visiting. I loved working on the baseball stadiums project, illustrating iconic buildings with such interesting backgrounds. It was great to imagine how much emotion and passion happened in each of them. Whilst they each have their own unique personality, they all have the same goal: to welcome and bring people together and share happiness.

JerSean Golatt Photographer Contributed to “A Taste of Dallas” p. 24

Getting to photograph rather intimate spaces that are hidden gems in the city allowed me to get an even closer look at foods, finds and the lovely people behind them, like David and Jennifer of Lucia – their attention to detail was very apparent. I also made another new friend: Mark at Dude, Sweet Chocolate. (I couldn’t get enough of their Chubby Nuts.) As a Dallas resident, I also now have more spots to add to the eat-out list. I’m especially looking forward to a night out at Bolsa to experience the vegetarian lasagna again.

Summer 2017

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AWARDS 2017

Environment Award Winner Misool Eco Resort

Celebrating tourism as a force for environmental good, the Tourism for Tomorrow Environment Award recognises exceptional work to improve biodiversity, promote conservation, minimise use of scarce resources or tackle climate change. Congratulations to a deserving winner.

To ďŹ nd out more and see the full list of winners, visit wttc.org/tourism-for-tomorrow-awards


Globetrotter A WORLD OF TRAVEL TRENDS & DISCOVERIES

Hello, Summer! From the best waterfront resorts and coolest hot-weather gear to the weirdest state fair foods and tips on watching the eclipse, we’ve got the season covered.

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Globetrotter / NEW & NOTABLE

Japan // Japan’s beautiful Twilight Express Mizukaze sleeper train will begin running two- and three-day excursions through the country’s scenic landscapes in June. Tickets, which can be purchased only in Japan, range from about $2,400 to $11,000. // twilightexpress-mizukaze.jp

New York City // A restaurant dedicated to late actress Rue McClanahan and her 1985–1992 TV series, Golden Girls, has opened in New York City’s Washington Heights neighborhood. Rue La Rue Café includes menu offerings from McClanahan’s personal recipe collection and features Golden Girls memorabilia. // ruelaruecafe.com

U.S. // Pet travel website gopetfriendly.com has created a cross-country road trip with stops at one pet-friendly attraction in each contiguous state. Destinations include national parks, beaches and other spots people and pets can enjoy together.

Hanoi, Vietnam // Rave reviews and word of mouth are sending tourists to tiny Giang Café in Hanoi, Vietnam, where the favorite brew is egg coffee: a mix of egg yolk, powdered coffee, sweetened condensed milk, butter, cheese and some secret ingredients. The recipe was created in 1946 by the café manager’s father. // Egg coffee about $1, giangcafehanoi.com Sydney, Australia // “What’s your sign?” isn’t a pickup line but a relevant question at the Ultimo Hotel, billed as the world’s first astrology hotel. The property partnered with a professional astrologer to create itineraries designed to make guests feel aligned to their zodiac signs. // theultimo.com.au

Uzbekistan & Tajikistan // For the first time in 25 years, travelers will no longer have to endure a 10- to 12-hour taxi ride to travel between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. In February, Somon Air was the first to begin offering the 45-minute flights between the neighboring Central Asian countries (about $190).

London, England // An exhibition of rarely seen portrait drawings from some of the masters of the Renaissance and Baroque periods will open this summer at London’s National Portrait Gallery. The Encounter: Drawings from Leonardo to Rembrandt will run from July 13 to October 22. // Admission $12.50; npg.org.uk Cartagena, Colombia // A restaurant inside San Diego women’s prison in Cartagena, Colombia, is giving inmates a chance to learn real-world skills. Visitors are flocking to Restaurante Interno, which features gourmet meals prepared and served by inmates, sporting pink turbans, who’ve been trained by celebrity chefs. // Three-course meal $80; restauranteinterno.com

Brazil // Ricardo Shimosakai, who became a paraplegic in 2001, is promoting accessible tourism in Brazil. Shimosakai’s new travel company, Turismo Adaptado, arranges vacation packages – both in Brazil and farther afield – for people with disabilities. // turismoadaptado.wordpress.com

For daily travel news updates from around the globe, see lonelyplanet.com/news.

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Derry, Ireland // The Museum of Free Derry in Northern Ireland has reopened after a nearly $3 million renovation. The museum chronicles the civil rights struggle that began in the city in the mid-1960s and ended with the 1972 Bloody Sunday massacre. // Admission $3; museumoffreederry.org

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: GETTY IMAGES/VINHDAV; COURTESY OF THE ULTIMO; © ROBERT WHITE/COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF FREE DERRY; COURTESY OF THE INTERNO

EAT & DRINK

Travel News

LONELY PLANET / Summer 2017

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From our global community of travelers

Tag your travel photos with #lppostcards on Instagram

Valley of Fire State Park – Overton, Nevada

@vormes

Death Valley National Park – California & Nevada

@travellustforlife

»

Follow us:

@lonelyplanetmags

Antelope Canyon – east of Page, Arizona

@viewfromoverhere

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park – Oljato–Monument Valley, Utah

@nicolepeggyb

Summer 2017

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Globetrotter /

Postcards

> Where you’ve been and what you’ve seen

YOSEMITE

NATIONAL PARK | CALIFORNIA

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TUN N E L V IS IO N

After hearing about a storm passing through Yosemite National Park, I decided to head there the following day. I’ve been to Yosemite many times, but have never seen it blanketed with snow. Once I arrived, I was mesmerized by the scene: granite monolithic mountains and trees all covered with thick, untouched snow. For sunset I decided to visit Tunnel View. It offers a stunning view of Yosemite’s jewels, including El Capitan, Half Dome

and Bridalveil Fall. The last light of the day cast a red glow on El Capitan and lit up the clouds above. The experience was breathtaking and one I had been chasing for years to see. Willie Huang is an engineer living in Sunnydale, California.

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WHEN DID YOU BEGIN TO SEE THE WORLD DIFFERENTLY? SEE THE WORLD YOUR WAY. You’ve always forged your own path, with your own distinct

perspective of looking at the world. Avalon Waterways presents a river cruise experience with your unique style in mind—offering expansive views and wider perspectives. With river cruising’s only OpenAir Balcony, these wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling windows open wider than any other in the industry, blurring the line between outside and in, forming a spacious seating area for six, and creating an open invitation to discover and dream. Even if you’re a seasoned traveler, you’ve never seen Europe like this.

Contact your professional travel agent, call 866.397.6594 or visit AvalonWaterways.com


Postcards

BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK | UTAH

B RYCE YO UR S E LF

I decided to retrace a road trip I took with my parents through America as a child. Starting in Los Angeles, I finished up near the Grand Canyon five weeks later. One of the highlights was a return to Bryce Canyon. The vertical hoodoos, some as high as 10-story buildings, were as impressive as I had remembered. I woke while it was still dark to wait for the sunrise. When it crept over the horizon, the rock warmed to orange, casting

long shadows. It’s rare that a childhood travel memory revisited in adulthood matches the awe of seeing something for the first time. Bryce Canyon more than did this. Nick Jackson drove 3,000 miles through the U.S.

Send your best new travel photos (at 300 dpi), along with the stories behind them (in 100 words or less), and a photo of yourself to postcards@lonelyplanet.com.

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LONELY PLANET / Summer 2017

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Find amazing experiences all year – subscribe and SAVE 74%* With authentic storytelling and beautiful photography, each issue is filled with unique adventures, memorable landscapes and fascinating characters. Take advantage of our discounted rate and get a year of Lonely Planet magazine for only $1.50 per issue, a 74%* savings off the newsstand price.

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Lonely Planet Video is your home for travel videos. Featuring inspiring content from globetrotting filmmakers, destination and interest playlists, interviews and more, it doesn’t tell you about the world’s best experiences – it shows you.

lonelyplanet.com/video


Globetrotter /

Travel Icon | Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum

New York City | A work of art itself, this spiraling concrete structure designed by Frank Lloyd Wright is considered one of the most important architectural icons of the 20th century. The museum was completed in 1959 to house the abstract art collection of mining magnate Solomon Guggenheim. Today it is the heart of a worldwide network of architecturally distinct Guggenheim museums featuring modern and contemporary art.

01. The architect’s original

plans for a 10-story tower were unrealized. In 1992, an eight-story tower, designed by Gwathmey Siegel & Associates, was added, providing more gallery and office space.

02. The large rotunda, a

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spiraling structure topped by a large domed skylight, is the heart of the museum. Wright envisioned visitors taking an elevator to the top of the rotunda and strolling down the quarter-mile spiral ramp as they viewed art, with continuous spaces flowing into one another.

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03. Wright used many 3

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geometric forms in the building’s design, including circles, arcs, ovals, triangles and squares. The third floor of the small rotunda, where a café is located, features a wall of semicircular window panels.

04. Nature was Wright’s

biggest inspiration. It is believed the rotunda’s spiral ramp was inspired by a nautilus shell, while its skylight is based on the symmetry of a spider web.

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05. The building’s facade is

© BRUCE BI/AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

constructed of gunite (sprayed sand and cement), which allowed for the creation of the exterior’s smooth curves.

06. The structure and shell of the museum are formed by more than 7,000 cubic feet of concrete and 700 tons of structural steel.

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07. The museum is situated along Fifth Avenue between 88th and 89th streets, across from Central Park.

Summer 2017

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Intrepid Travel was the first global tour operator to ban elephant rides.

i n t re p i d t rave l .co m Travel responsibly. Intrepid Travel is the global leader in sustainable small group adventure tours.

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ILLUSTRATION BY BRAVE THE WOODS

Globetrotter /

Spaghetti and meatballs on a stick Why eat it on a plate if you can eat it on a stick? That goes for pizza, key lime pie and 80-something other foods served skewered at the Minnesota fair.

Octodog It’s an octopus-shaped hot dog served on a bed of macaroni and cheese, because sometimes you need a little silliness with your comfort food. It’s OK to go back for seconds.

Summer’s Weirdest Treats

Fried Pepsi Who can resist fried dough balls filled with Pepsi syrup and topped with powdered sugar and more syrup? And it’s served on a stick, for easy eating while wandering the midway.

Deep-fried White Castle burger These tiny burgers made their crispy debut at California’s Orange County Fair a few years ago, proving that anything is fair game for the deep fryer.

Kool-Aid pickles Soaked in the kids’ iconic drink mix, these brightly colored sweet-and-sour oddities, also known as Koolickles, make appearances throughout the South.

Deep-fried ice cream cheeseburger It’s dinner and dessert: a cheeseburger loaded with bacon, tomato, onion and pickle, topped with a scoop of Mexican-style fried ice cream.

Summer 2017

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7 New Ways to See | Philadelphia

Philadelphia is known for its heaps of historical attractions, cheesesteaks and, of course, the famous Rocky steps. But there is also a thriving creative community and an exciting culinary scene to discover in this down-toearth city. Summer is the perfect time to explore the well-worn cobblestone streets of the metropolis and get to see Philly in a whole new light.

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Founded in 1974, The Clay Studio is a unique gallery, workshop and studio focusing on ceramic arts by local and international artists. In addition to visiting the gallery, which features a varied offering of temporary exhibits, you can tour the entire facility and take workshops. // Free admission, tours $25; theclaystudio.org

BY REBECCA WARREN

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Instead of going to the Philadelphia Museum of Art’s 72 stone steps (philamuseum.org) to pay homage to the fictional Rocky Balboa, head over to South Philadelphia’s Sports Complex at 1100 Pattison Ave. to see the enormous bronze statue of Philly native and real-life pugilist hero Joe Frazier. Standing 11 feet tall and weighing nearly 2,000 pounds, the bronze statue captures Frazier at the moment he dealt Muhammad Ali that iconic blow. // Free admission; scssd.org

Home goods and gifts at Omoi Zakka’s Select Shop 215 in the Old City district

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Walnut Street and Rittenhouse Row is the place to go for high-end fashion in Philadelphia proper, and Old City has the Third Street Corridor, which offers a variety of independent, eclectic boutiques. // rittenhouserow.org

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The Rosenbach is the perfect place for bibliophiles. This beautiful museum features rare books and manuscripts, including James Joyce’s Ulysses, and incunabula, basically the earliest printed books from 1450 to 1500. Docent-led tours of the elegant home highlight period-furnished rooms, Thomas Sully portraits and the Marianne Moore room – essentially the modernist poet’s Greenwich Village apartment lock, stock and barrel. // $10 admission includes exhibitions and guided tour; rosenbach.org

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At the brand-new Museum of the American Revolution, immerse yourself in the history of late 18th century Philadelphia to better understand the atmosphere that created the United States of America. Spanning two city blocks in the heart of the city, the museum features artifacts from the Revolutionary era and recreated historical environments to bring this transformative period of history to life. // $19, tickets are valid for two consecutive days; amrevmuseum.org

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Philadelphia is known for its superb Italian food, and the salted caramel budino from Barbuzzo is one of the city’s most iconic desserts. Essentially an Italian custard, this dish offers it all: a dark chocolate crust, rich vanilla bean custard and perfectly salted caramel, served beautifully layered in a glass jar. // Salted caramel budino $9, dinner entrees from $11; barbuzzo.com

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» Top to bottom: the Clay Studio’s gallery and workshop space

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF SELECT SHOP 215; COURTESY OF VISIT PHILADELPHIA ®/N. SANTOS (TOP RIGHT AND BOTTOM RIGHT); COURTESY OF BARBUZZO; GETTY IMAGES/NEW YORK DAILY NEWS ARCHIVE

Globetrotter /

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COURTESY OF BRENT HERRIG

Located in Fishtown, one of Philly’s hottest areas for inventive, adventurous cuisine, ROOT has a gorgeously designed interior, with stunning food to match. The menu pairs perfectly with an impressive and affordable wine list. // Main courses from $12; rootrestaurant.com

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Globetrotter /

Q&A

A Taste of | Dallas

From left: Chef David Uygur and wife Jennifer; Lucia’s salumi board, a selection of house-cured meats

with David Uygur from Lucia

Lucia is David and Jennifer Uygur’s ode to the rustic Italian food that they seek out on their travels. Chef David talks with us about his culinary inspirations, travel style and where to go in Dallas right now. By Rebecca Warren | Photographs by JerSean Golatt Q What was the first thing you ever cooked? A The first thing I remember cooking is cupcakes with my mom. They were Betty Crocker chocolate cake with chocolate icing. My mom was a busy teacher and baking was something fun we could do together.

Q How did you become a chef ? A I grew up in a small town and there wasn’t much to do, so I started cooking and throwing dinner parties for my friends. After two years as a philosophy major, I decided I’d rather cook for a living and read philosophy on my own time.

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Q How did Lucia come to be? A My wife and I love traveling. Italy is one of our favorite places to visit. We’ve been traveling there together for years. We love eating at little, off-the-beaten-path restaurants – the kind where the food is simple but delicious and the atmosphere friendly and relaxed. We wanted our restaurant to feel comfortable, like you were having dinner at our house.

Q What one cocktail captures the mood in Dallas at the moment? A Recently, I really enjoyed a Manhattan at a bar called Jettison. Their version involved smoked maple. I generally like simpler, not overwrought flavors and presentations. The same reason I liked the bar itself ... it seems like a grown-up bar. Both design and drinks are sleek.

Q How do you incorporate food into your travels? A We plan our vacations meal to meal and then fill in with other things. We research places before we go and make a few reservations here and there ... but we always make time to just get lost and see what strikes our fancy or see what local folk like.

Q What one thing do you always have in the pantry? A Anchovies and some of our house-made bread. These are key ingredients in a simple pasta dish that my wife and I love.

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CHEF UYGUR’S FAVORITES DUDE, SWEET CHOCOLATE “I love their chocolate

salami. It’s a riff on a traditional Italian treat.” Above: Chubby Nuts – salted, candied mixed nuts tossed in white and dark chocolate and powdered sugar

BOLSA “It’s just a great neighborhood restaurant … tasty

food, good cocktails and interesting and friendly folks.” Above: Bubble Bouquet, made with vodka, a trio of liqueurs, hibiscus syrup, lemon juice, lavender bitters and Champagne

EL JORDAN “We love the migas a la Mexicana from this friendly, family-owned place.” At left: Owner Jose Gonzalez; above: Chile relleno with rice and refried beans

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THE PROSCIUTTO AND BURRATA SALAD FROM BOLSA

» Garden herbs: tarragon, basil, mint, fennel fronds

Roasted organic beets, pickled in-house

La Quercia American prosciutto, shaved thin

Lemon-dressed bitter red Belgian endive

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

Burrata cheese dusted with house pepper blend

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A Taste of | Dallas

“THE BEST ITALIAN WINE SELECTION IN TOWN”

JIMMY'S FOOD STORE “This family-owned Italian grocery store/deli in East

Dallas has the best Italian wine selection in town – and recently celebrated their 50th anniversary.” Above: Muffuletta

BENNY JACK ANTIQUES “He’s got an array of constantly changing, quirky wares. I picked up a well-worn hog splitter from him just last week.”

2:30 P.M.

CHEF UYGUR'S RECIPE FOR A PERFECT DAY IN DALLAS

8 A.M.

Head to El Jordan Cafe in Oak Cliff and get their migas a la Mexicana or a couple of their breakfast burritos.

10:30 A.M.

PREMIERE VIDEO “One of the last video stores standing. They have a great selection of foreign and hard-to-find films.”

Rent a bike and ride around White Rock Lake. Or just take a stroll through the Dallas Arboretum and enjoy all the flowers in bloom. Or check out one of the museums here in town. We love taking our niece and nephews to the Perot Museum of Nature and Science or checking out the Nasher Sculpture Center.

You could either wander around some of Dallas’s great vintage/ antique stores like Benny Jack Antiques or Dolly Python . . . or maybe hit the antique stores along Riverfront, like Lots of Furniture, Lula B’s and White Elephant.

5 P.M.

Head back to Oak Cliff and sip a tasty cocktail at the bar at the Belmont Hotel – with a view of the downtown Dallas skyline.

8 P.M.

We’d love for you to come and enjoy some of our house-made salumi and pasta with us at Lucia! If you don’t have reservations, our bar and sidewalk patio tables are walk-up, first-come, first-served.

For more: luciadallas.com, dudesweetchocolate.com, bolsadallas.com, jimmysfoodstore.com, bennyjackantiques.com

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Globetrotter A Look Back at the Summer of Love: 50 Years On It’s been half a century since the Summer of Love, but the legacy of those counterculture golden days still lives on across the San Francisco Bay Area – from organic farmers’ markets to open-air street parties and a store where everything is free. BY GABRIELLE JAFFE

@GJAFFE

Fifty years ago, San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park and the adjacent Haight-Ashbury neighborhood became the epicenter for a movement that would change the world. The Summer of Love sprang up in 1967 like a field of California wildflowers. Tens of thousands of young people from across America descended on this area of less than a square mile, embracing the liberated atmosphere. Sitting cross-legged on the grass, or dancing and swaying, they listened to bands like Jefferson Airplane at free open-air concerts in the park. Today, a short amble away, Haight Street, lined with record stores and shops selling bongs, rock crystals and hand-dyed psychedelia, is full of bohemian romantics. The hippie dream was meant to have died with the Summer of Love. The promised paradise of free love and free thinking soon turned sour. Overrun by dropouts, HaightAshbury became a dystopic muddle of crime, drug addiction, sexual disease and disaffection. In October 1967, local activists staged a mock funeral down Haight Street, pronouncing “The Death of the Hippie.” But now, half a century later, many of those “hippie values,” such as respecting the environment and celebrating creative individuality, have seeped into the mainstream. And nowhere are these ideals more alive than in the Bay Area.

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Back to Berkeley When summer 1967 turned to autumn, most of the flower children returned to college or settled down in conventional jobs. But not everyone was ready to give up the newfound alternative lifestyle. Bob Bernstein was one of those who ended up at a commune in the California countryside. “They picked me up when I was hitchhiking and I’ve been there ever since,” says Bernstein of Pomo Tierra, the collective north of San Francisco that he joined in 1971. “No one had ever farmed before. We just knew we wanted out of the city.” These days, Bernstein and his apples, juices and cider vinegars are a regular fixture at the Berkeley farmers’ markets. Just across the water from San Francisco, on the east side of the bay, Berkeley remains a bastion of counterculture. During the ’60s, the university was at the heart of the anti-Vietnam War protest movements, and many of its students stayed in town after graduating. There must be a higher percentage of proudly gray hippie citizens here than anywhere else in America. Given that so many hippies stayed in Berkeley, it’s not surprising the city became the crucible of the organic food revolution. “Living in Berkeley in the ’60s, there was this sense that we could change the world. Everyone knew someone who’d dropped out to join a commune and you just absorbed the understanding that we had to care for the land,” says Alice Waters, founder of acclaimed restaurant Chez Panisse. Since opening in 1971, the restaurant has been one of the earliest champions of local and sustainable food, pioneering now-widespread practices like changing dishes daily according to what’s in season and naming producers on the menu. Gourmands from around the world continue to make the pilgrimage here for dishes such as wild salmon carpaccio and roasted lamb with green garlic. Opposite Chez Panisse stands another Berkeley institution: the Cheese Board Collective. Founded in 1967, the deli is a veritable library of cheddars, Monterey Jacks, goudas and goat cheeses. Inside, chalkboards announce seasonal specials. What makes this

place unique is the way it is run: as a co-op. All 54 employees earn the same hourly wage, and decisions are made by consensus. “For customers who remember the ’60s, we’re a touchstone to that period of political action,” says worker Cathy Goldsmith, as she carefully slices a wedge of gruyère. Social consciousness is woven throughout the fabric of Berkeley. Its farmers’ markets, which would be the envy of wealthy communities everywhere, are accessible to those on lower incomes, thanks to food stamp programs. In the poorer southwest area of town, the Spiral Gardens Community Farm is another example of trying to bring Eden to everyone. Kanchan Dawn Hunter (pictured below) is just visible among the luxuriant jungle of vegetables, herbs and edible flowers. “When my husband founded the gardens 14 years ago, this was a vacant lot surrounded by liquor stores. It was difficult for the neighborhood to access fresh food,” Hunter recalls. Now, the project teaches locals to grow their own and distributes free produce to those in need. Visitors support the gardens by buying seeds, fruit and vegetables, while learning about native plants and sustainable growing practices from volunteers. “It’s environmental justice in action,” says Hunter.

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OPPOSITE PAGE AND THIS PAGE, LEFT AND CENTER: KRIS DAVIDSON; GETTY IMAGES/GAB ARCHIVE/REDFERNS; GETTY IMAGES/SANTI VISALLI INC.; GETTY IMAGES/EXPRESS/STRINGER; GETTY IMAGES/SUSAN WOOD

Over in Oakland Berkeley has the highest number of original hippies, but it’s in Oakland, San Francisco’s sister city in the East Bay, that the imaginative, youthful spirit of ’67 lives on. Oakland is a vibrantly diverse place where artists fleeing San Francisco’s rising rents have swelled the ranks of the city’s creatives. Scores of galleries now occupy art deco skyscrapers and former warehouses. Every other block is festooned with stories-high murals. Art is everywhere in Oakland. At Oakstop, a big-windowed gallery and

co-working space in the heart of uptown, jewelry-makers work beside music producers, and most days there’s a free event, from artist talks to film screenings. Instead of the hushed environment that normally greets visitors in exhibition rooms, here there’s the background buzz of excited entrepreneurs swapping ideas by the coffee tables. “It’s about creating a community,” explains founder Trevor Parham. “The ideas of the ’60s – the need for people to support each other as individuals – are coming back around.” Across town at Free Oakland Up, Jocelyn Meggait has created a shop where everything is given away free. Old books and candlesticks, vases, napkin rings and a suitcase filled with handwritten letters from the ’60s are among the treasures offered. Resident artists help themselves to free art supplies, and at the end of their residency, their art is hung on the

walls and given away. “Everything has been donated. Anyone who comes in can take one free item a day,” explains Meggait. “I want to show people that it’s wonderful to give a new life to things.” A commitment to combating throwaway culture also prevails at Owl N Wood (pictured at left). In this uptown Oakland emporium, vintage clothes and locally made products are laid out like merchandise at a high-end concept store. “I believe in recycling old stuff. By being creative in the way you display, people see beauty in things they might not have thought they liked,” says owner Rachel Konte. Like many local independent boutiques, Owl N Wood began as a pop-up. Oakland’s Koreatown Northgates neighborhood is taken over one evening a month by an event dedicated to pop-ups: First Fridays, which sees five blocks colonized by local creatives (below). Amid craft stalls are a sake bar and trucks selling food, from tacos and po’ boy sandwiches to steamed dumplings. Hundreds of Californians throng between them, stopping to watch break dancers, poets and singers perform into the night. It’s an event that showcases the unique cultural mix of Oakland and evokes the open-air, open-to-all atmosphere of Golden Gate happenings during the Summer of Love.

Why San Francisco? It shouldn’t be surprising that the Summer of Love blossomed in the City by the Bay. It was here in the 1950s that the Beat Generation authors kicked off the counterculture revolt. At the Human Be-In, a free gathering at Golden Gate Park in January 1967, bearded Beat poet Allen Ginsberg lead cowbell-accompanied chants of “Om.” He was joined by the recently fired Harvard psychology professor Timothy Leary, who implored the crowd to “turn on, tune in, drop out,” as LSD was handed around. Ironically, the media’s horrified coverage helped publicize San Francisco to disaffected youth across the country. Released to promote a music festival happening in June in Monterey Bay, Scott McKenzie’s song “San Francisco (Be Sure to Wear Flowers in Your Hair)” lured even more hippies to the area.

Notable Figures

FROM THE SUMMER OF LOVE

Scott McKenzie

Timothy Leary

Alice Waters

Allen Ginsberg

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Globetrotter /

Gear

|

Beat the Heat

CAMPR This rugged all-terrain cooler is a bear-proof beast of burden for serious campers. It comes with accessories such as a chopping board, cup holders and a storage bin for carrying gear from the car to campsite. From $449, rovrproducts.com

EXTRA-THICK FOAM INSULATION KEEPS CONTENTS COLD

The Tech FACE MIST These vegan, cruelty-free face mists are made in small batches in Brooklyn of high-quality botanical ingredients. Tuck one into your carry-on bag to help keep your skin hydrated on long flights, and keep one chilled in your beach cooler bag for a refreshing spray as you soak up the sun’s rays. Individual bottles from $36, mulleinandsparrow.com

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DR. COOL WRAPS These wraps combine two therapies in one: compression and ice. Whether your trip includes a challenging workout or you just like to be prepared, toss one of these compact wraps into your travel bag to beat the heat and keep pain at bay. Wraps from $17.99, drcoolrecovery.com

Just add water to activate the chemical-free cooling properties, and instantly feel the temperature lower up to 30 degrees on the area applied.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF MULLEIN & SPARROW, ROVR PRODUCTS, COOLCORE

CUSHIONED ALUMINUM PULL HANDLE

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The Tech

MADE OF AN ORGANIC COTTON BLEND

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF CORKCICLE, OUTDOOR RESEARCH, LAYBACK CO.

WATERMAN CANTEEN This hardy stainless steel bottle gets a bright new (and durable!) powder-coated finish for the season. Be sure to keep your drinking supply topped up before heading out this summer. The bottle has flat sides to make it easy to grip, and it keeps beverages cold for up to 25 hours. $29.95, corkcicle.com

If you get tired of slathering on sunscreen multiple times a day, consider wearing this wicking, ultralightweight performance fabric with a built-in 50+UPF.

LA PAZ SUN HOODY The performance fabric makes it a great choice for outdoor activities such as hiking and kayaking. $85, outdoorresearch.com

FOLDS INTO MATCHING BAG FOR PORTABILITY

FREEDOM CANVAS The Layback Hammock Company makes products inspired by the ethos of surf, skate and snow culture. These heavy canvas hammocks are designed to be put up anywhere, with brass eyelets and twill braided rope to ensure a secure anchoring to your points of choice. $110, layback.co

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Globetrotter /

Amazing Places to Stay | Water Views

Summertime calls for an escape from the daily grind, and what better way to get away from it all than by enjoying a few days near the water. Research has shown that spending time in nature can improve your health, so get outside and hit the beach or the lake – or just kick back and immerse yourself in the view at one of these hotels. We’ve rounded up some of the best waterside accommodations in North America, from a serene Canadian lakeside retreat to some saltwater stunners along the Pacific coast.

La Casa Que Canta Zihuatanejo, Mexico This all-suite, adults-only luxury hotel is perched on the shores of La Ropa Beach, a prime location in Mexico’s Costa Grande region on the Pacific coast. The terra-cotta-roofed property offers spectacular views of the clear blue waters of Zihuatanejo Bay. All 25 suites feature ample terraces to admire the scenery, and some offer private plunge pools. The hotel offers privacy as well as top-quality dining at Mar y Cielo, which serves contemporary Mexican cuisine. The hotel has a Hollywood connection: its infinity pool was used in the movie When a Man Loves a Woman, starring Meg Ryan and Andy Garcia, and La Ropa Beach was the place where Tim Robbins’s character in The Shawshank Redemption dreamed of escaping to. From $290; lacasaquecanta.com

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COURTESY OF MANOIR HOVEY (TOP AND CENTER) AND LA CASA QUE CANTA (LEFT)

Manoir Hovey North Hatley, Quebec Only 90 minutes outside Montreal lie the tranquil shores of Lake Massawippi and the enchanting Manoir Hovey. Built in 1900, this property retains the feel of an early 20th century summer estate. Its 30 rooms and seven suites feature modern design choices and finishes. Surrounded by lush English gardens, the hotel offers a range of activities, from spa treatments and yoga classes to kayaking, paddle boarding and private fishing lessons. The on-site restaurant provides gorgeous lakeside views as a backdrop for inventive takes on regional cuisine by renowned chef Francis Wolf. From $148; manoirhovey.com

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NEW & QUIRKY LANDLOCKED FINDS

Terranea Rancho Palos Verdes, California Located in Los Angeles County on the scenic Palos Verdes Peninsula, this hotel makes you feel like you are a million miles from the hustle and bustle of the sprawling LA metropolis. Built atop bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the Mediterraneaninspired resort offers uninterrupted oceanfront views. The property features a range of accommodations: guest rooms, suites, villas and bungalows. The 102-acre estate includes a golf course, full-service spa, fitness center, four swimming pools, a kids’ club and a range of ecological enrichment programs for guest to participate in. From $395; terranea.com

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF TERRANEA RESORT, BREWDOG, FOREST GULLY FARMS

The DogHouse Columbus, Ohio Scottish brewery and pub chain BrewDog plans to create the world’s first crowd-funded craft beer hotel, the DogHouse (rendering above), to be located on the site of the company’s newly opened DogTap craft brewery in Columbus, Ohio. Craft beer on tap in the rooms, shower beer fridges, brew-based spa treatments, a hot-tub filled with IPA, and a rooftop bar could be among the hotel’s offerings. brewdog.com

Forest Gully Santa Fe, Tennessee Foraging for food and sleeping in eco-friendly underground huts are the attractions at Forest Gully Farms, a “food forest” in Sante Fe, Tennessee. Red- and yellow-trimmed sleeping cabins flank the green-trimmed kitchen hut; the trio must be booked as a set. Guests can pick their own fruits, herbs and other foods at the 29-acre experimental mini-farm and orchard. From $220; forestgullyfarms.com

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Insider Knowledge

Q How do you think street art reflects the personality of a place? A Art on the streets helps to break down the barriers of normal institutions like galleries and museums. It brings art to the people and it becomes part of the fabric of their everyday lives. It also creates more foot traffic, which then positively affects local small businesses in the area.

Exploring Street Art Artist Jasper Wong is the founder of the Pop! Wow! Festival, which puts on street art festivals worldwide. Here, he discusses how street art reveals the character of a place, the best ways to see art while traveling, and more.

5 Great Places to See the Total Solar Eclipse The coast-to-coast cosmic spectacle will travel a 70-mile-wide path from Oregon to South Carolina on August 21.

1. Oregon interior

The city of Madras and other nearby points in the interior of Oregon have the possibility of great weather, and the path of totality is reachable from several larger cities.

1

traveling to a new place?

A Books, friend recommendations and social media are all excellent places to start.

constantly inspired when I travel and learn about new ways of seeing. I'm a collector at

The eclipse will be the first total solar eclipse visible in the U.S. since 1979 and the first to cross the country since 1918. The best spots to see the astronomical event are closer to the middle of its “path of totality,” where the eclipse will be total and last the longest. “If you are in the path of totality and it’s clear in your area, that’s the best place to be,” says Michelle Nichols, astronomer at Chicago's Adler Planetarium. She recommends these spots for great eclipse viewing:

5. Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Tennessee– North Carolina border

2

3

3. Carbondale, Illinois

This area will enjoy a full two minutes and 41 seconds of totality. Southern Illinois University in Carbondale is planning an eclipse party (see eclipse.siu.edu).

For detailed maps of the eclipse path, see greatamericaneclipse.com.

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Q What are your tips for finding art when

Q How does travel influence your art? A It influences my art in every aspect. I'm

4

5

2. Snake River Valley, Idaho

The weather prospects in this part of the country, an area of farmland and lava fields, are favorable for viewing the eclipse for just over two minutes.

heart, so I often buy books and souvenirs, which inspire my art in different ways.

4. Missouri

There are many community eclipse events happening in towns and state parks all along the path in Missouri (see missouri.edu/eclipse).

While the duration of the eclipse is shorter here and the weather prospects aren’t quite as good as in other areas, there is an opportunity for expansive and impressive valley views from mountaintops.

The next total solar eclipse visible in the U.S. will take place on April 8, 2024.

Lonely Planet's Street Art book features the street art scene, including festivals and interviews with some of the most well-known artists, in more than 40 cities around the world.

ECLIPSE VIEWING TIPS

1 Never look directly at the sun during a partial eclipse. Doing so can result in permanent eye damage or blindness. The only safe way to view a partial eclipse is through special-purpose solar filters or handheld solar viewers. Homemade filters and regular sunglasses are not safe. See the American Astronomical Society’s website (eclipse.aas.org) for a list of safety-certified eclipse glasses and handheld viewers. 2 During the brief period when the moon covers the sun completely, it’s OK to look directly at the sun. Be sure to know when it’s safe to remove your eclipse glasses and when you must put them back on.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BRANDON SHIGETA; COURTESY OF JASPER WONG; GETTY IMAGES/TOPICAL PRESS AGENCY

Globetrotter /

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WIN A TRIP FOR TWO TO ICELAND We are offering an incredible opportunity for one Lonely Planet magazine reader and a guest to win a weeklong vacation in Iceland to explore the unique country’s natural highlights and discover a world of craft beers in the capital, Reykjavík. Special thanks to our friends at Inspired by Iceland, STA Travel, DRAFT Magazine and Fosshotel for putting together this spectacular trip!

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PRIZE INCLUDES • A $2,000 flight voucher from STA Travel • A seven-day/six-night stay in Reykjavík at Fosshotel • A beer tasting at the Beer Garden gastropub • A Golden Circle Classic day trip from Reykjavík • A beer and food tasting tour in Reykjavík • One-year subscriptions to DRAFT and Lonely Planet magazines • Copies of Lonely Planet’s Iceland, Pocket Reykjavík and Global Beer Tour books HOW TO ENTER • To enter, fill in your details online at lptravel.to/beer. • Competition closes at 11:59 p.m. (CDT) on July 25, 2017. • Special conditions and blackout dates will apply. This competition is open only to U.S. citizens 21 years of age or older. For the full terms and conditions go to lptravel.to/summer.

© JONATHAN GREGSON/LONELY PLANET

AND ENJOY CRAFT BEER!

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Easy Trips QUICK ESCAPES FOR SUMMER

» © CSP_SCOUTINGSTOCK

A perfect LA day trip: Malibu's El Matador State Beach

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Also featuring: Colorado // Georgia // Vermont Summer 2017

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Easy Trips

LA

Mix and match to create your own itinerary.

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FOR SUN & SAND Venice Beach This is the beach for those with a hankering for peoplewatching along with their surfing and beach lounging. A magnet for free spirits for decades, Venice Beach Boardwalk is a popular oceanside spot for bodybuilders, skateboarders, cyclists and beachgoers alike (laparks.org/venice). Nearby Venice Skatepark has a constant ebb and flow of skateboards shooting into the air, with and without their riders.

PLACES TO GO

Griffith Park and Observatory Griffith Park is an oasis in the concretecovered landscape of LA. It has an extensive network of trails, a bird sanctuary, a nature museum, and at the top of the park lies the Griffith Observatory (above), which offers some of the best views of both the city skyline and the iconic Hollywood sign (griffithobservatory.org).

Paramount Pictures Los Angeles is home to Hollywood, the epicenter of moviemaking. Several studio tours are available, but Paramount's is the best for serious film lovers. Their small tours are led by knowledgeable guides focusing on the art of filmmaking and the history of the movies and TV shows that are filmed on their soundstages (tours from $55; paramountstudio tour.com).

Abbot Kinney Boulevard This eclectic street is a great place to stroll up and down for a few hours and get a real sense of that laid-back LA vibe. Filled with independent shops, interesting restaurants and trendy retailers such as Hourglass, Sweaty Betty and a flagship store for Toms, this is a nice alternative to heaving shopping hot spots in other parts of the city.

Malibu The city of Malibu is bursting with natural beauty, from pristine beaches to peaceful trails in the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreational Area. Some of the standout beaches are El Matador (above), Westward Beach and Zuma. There are a few commercial areas in this 27-mile stretch of coastline, but your best bet is to stock up on refreshments before heading to the beach, so you can pounce on a free parking spot on the Pacific Coast Highway – if you spot one.

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: GETTY IMAGES/JOSEPH BAUTISTA / EYEEM; GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY

Los Angeles is a city of many different faces, making it the perfect destination for a compact summer road trip. Whether you’re after a beach-filled long weekend, an arty escape, a few days of gastronomic delights or a mix of these things, you can find it in LA’s sprawling city limits. Our suggestions are all within a four-hour round-trip of one another, making it easy to plan a trip suited to your interests.

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THINGS   TO EAT 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF: ANDREA ALONSO; SIERRA PRESCOTT; ANDREA ALONSO; SIERRA PRESCOTT; TU TRAM PHAM

Grand Central Market This is the city’s go-to spot for casual meals and market staples. Operating continuously since 1917, it now houses cult favorites such as Eggslut, but make sure to check out Clockwise Sticky Rice for from top left: excellent Thai Grand Central Market; roasted food, Madcapra for inventive marrowbone from Bestia; takes on falafel, Grand Central and DTLA Market; Ori Cheese for an Menashe and Genevieve Gergis impressive array of Bestia of cheeses (grandcentral market.com).

Langer’s Deli Step back in time to one of the great mid-century American diners at Langer’s, a staple of the LA food scene since 1966. This restaurant has weathered the city’s changing landscape by not changing a thing in its decor or menu for decades. Steaming bowls of matzo ball soup and platters of latkes fill up tabletops quickly, but save room for the pastrami sandwich, lauded as the world's best by many, including Nora Ephron, who wrote an ode to the sandwich for The New Yorker.

Bestia One of the city’s hottest spots right now, Bestia does Italian food with a West Coast twist. Located in LA's Fashion District down a narrow side street, the space has a well-manicured rustic industrial feel, with wooden tables, a copper-topped bar and a boisterous open kitchen. Modern takes include a burrata and clam pizza, pork belly with mint salsa verde and pickled pomegranate, and a lifechanging chocolate budino tart with sea salt and olive oil. There's a menu of inventive cocktails, too (bestiala.com).

FOR ART, INDOORS & OUT The Broad LA’s newest heavy hitter on the art block is The Broad (pictured), an architectural marvel that houses 2,000 works of modern art (thebroad .org). The building itself is a masterpiece, with its white, woven construction providing a stark contrast to the industrial gray curved concrete interior. The gallery spaces themselves are light and bright, setting off the Technicolor hues in many of the pieces on display, from the vibrant Tulips by Jeff Koons to the enormous Keith Haring murals.

The Getty For an art-filled excursion complete with picnic potential, head up (way up) to the top of the Getty Center for a worldclass museum surrounded by outstanding views (getty.edu). The permanent collection features pre20th-century European art and a global collection of photographs from the 19th and 20th centuries, plus modern sculpture on the grounds. There is ample seating and picnics are allowed, so take advantage of these spectacular – and free – views.

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Easy Trips

Spanning nearly the entire length of the state, Vermont’s revered Route 100 travels through legendary ski resorts and past charming general stores, with the verdant Green Mountains always at its side. Take a slow meander through the state, and try not to speed up too much in anticipation of a tasty treat looming on the final stretch of road. Below: Ben & Jerry’s founders Jerry Greenfield, left, and Ben Cohen

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Start in the village of Wilmington, in Southern Vermont. Chartered in 1751, Wilmington is the winter and summer gateway to Mount Snow, 9 miles north, not only one of New England’s best ski resorts but also an excellent summertime mountain-biking and golfing spot. Wilmington’s West Main Street historic district is a prime example of 18th- and 19th-century architecture and is chock full of restaurants and boutiques.

No Route 100 trip would be complete without a visit to the Ben & Jerry’s Factory in Waterbury (benjerry.com), the biggest production center for the beloved ice cream flavors Cherry Garcia and Phish Food. Take the 30-minute tour and enjoy a free sample. Quaintly perched on a knoll overlooking the parking lot is the Ben & Jerry’s Flavor Graveyard; its neat rows of headstones pay tribute to flavors that flopped, like Makin’ Whoopie Pie, Dastardly Mash and Holy Cannoli.

2 Picturesque Weston is home to the famous Vermont Country Store (vermontcountrystore.com), founded in 1946. It’s a time warp from a simpler era when goods were made to last, and quirky products with appeal had a home. Here, in addition to clothing, personal care and home goods, you might discover electronic yodeling plastic pickles, classic games like wooden pickup sticks and vintage tiddlywinks, jars full of candy and wheels of Vermont cheese.

3 The largest ski resort in the east, Killington spans seven mountains, dominated by 4,241-foot-tall Killington Peak, the second highest in Vermont. For amazing 360-degree views, take a 1¼-mile ride to the top of the mountain on Killington Resort’s K1-Express Gondola (killington.com).

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5 In a cozy valley where the West Branch River flows into Little River and mountains rise in all directions, the quintessential Vermont village of Stowe (founded in 1794) bustles quietly. A bounty of inns and eateries line the thoroughfares leading up to Smuggler’s Notch, a narrow rockwalled pass through the Green Mountains. Ski trails, mounting biking and world-class rock- and iceclimbing make this a popular destination for adrenaline junkies and active families.

STAY Trapp Family Lodge, built by Maria von Trapp of Sound of Music fame, offers a variety of accommodations scattered across the 2,700-acre property. From about $225; trappfamily.com

FROM TOP: GETTY IMAGES/ALEROY4; GETTY IMAGES/BOSTON GLOBE

VERMONT ROUTE 100

150-mile trip

1

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1 156-mile trip

At Mesa Verde National Park (nps.gov/meve) in southwest Colorado, Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings can be found scattered throughout the canyons and mesas. Drive around Chapin Mesa Archeological Museum, where you can take the short walk to the easily accessible Spruce Tree House, the park’s best-preserved cliff dwelling, built between AD 1211 and 1278.

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SAN JUAN SKYWAY & MILLION DOLLAR HIGHWAY

ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/JIM COLE

Encompassing the vertiginous Million Dollar Highway, the 236-mile San Juan Skyway loops southern Colorado, traveling magnificent passes to alluring Old West towns and spanning elevations from 6,200 to 11,008 feet.

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An old Colorado mining town, Durango's graceful hotels, Victorian-era saloons and tree-lined streets invite you to pedal around soaking up all the good vibes. Float or fly-fish the Animas River, which runs through the town, then join the summer crowds strolling Main Avenue, stopping at bookstores, boutiques and breweries. Climb aboard the steam-driven Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, for a scenic journey into the San Juan Mountains (from $62; durangotrain.com).

3 The Million Dollar Highway, a breathtaking 24-mile stretch of U.S. Route 550 between Silverton and Ouray, passes old mine headframes and largerthan-life alpine scenery. Though paved, the route’s blind corners, tunnels and narrow turns would put the Roadrunner on edge.

4 Ouray is a well-preserved mining village nestled beneath imposing peaks. The area is full of hot springs. San Juan Scenic Jeep Tours takes open-air vehicles into the high country for spotting wildflowers and ghost towns (from $59; sanjuanjeeptours .com). It’s worth hiking up to Box Canyon Waterfall from the west end of 3rd Avenue. A suspension bridge leads you into the belly of this 285-foot waterfall.

5 About 156 miles into your trip is the historic mountain town of Telluride, where glitterati mix with ski bums. Sitting in a box canyon surrounded by the western San Juan Mountains, the town is known for epic skiing and its music and film festivals, which create a frolicking summer atmosphere. Some of the town’s most popular summer festivals are Telluride Bluegrass Festival, set for June 15–18; Telluride Jazz Festival, August 4–6; and Telluride Film Festival, August 30–September 4. For more on festivals and events, see visittelluride.com.

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Easy Trips

SAVANNAH TO THE GOLDEN ISLES

139-mile trip

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Savannah is a living museum of Southern architecture and antebellum charm. Be sure to visit Forsyth Park, a city park gushing with fountains and draped with mossy oaks. Modernists will appreciate the striking SCAD Museum of Art, filled with rotating contemporary exhibits (scadmoa.org). The Jepson Center for the Arts is another fun peek (telfair.org).

The gateway to Brunswick, Georgia, and the Golden Isles is U.S. Route 17, which rolls south from Savannah through several tiny, picturesque towns. Take a detour east on U.S. Route 84 past Fort Morris to get to the Sunbury Crab Company, one of those special finds that elude most travelers. The menu is whatever is fresh that day – maybe blue crab, shrimp or oysters – steamed and chased by cold beer overlooking gorgeous St. Catherines Sound.

Head back to U.S. 17 and follow it south for 40 miles into the small, quiet town of Darien. There you’ll find Fort King George Historic Site, a remarkably reconstructed version of a British outpost dating to 1721 (gastateparks.org). It overlooks a vast estuary. Expect to spot egrets and storks and to be serenaded by songbirds.

In the town of Brunswick, the Lady Jane Shrimp Boat takes tourists out trawling for shrimp in the St. Simons Sound (shrimpcruise.com). Before you know it, the shrimp will be peeled and served. Brunswick is separated from the Golden Isles by a causeway, which leads rather dramatically to the two St. Simons isles.

IMAGE OF FORSYTH PARK FOUNTAIN: GETTY IMAGES/BOB STEFKO

Georgia’s diverse and interesting shoreline includes pristine barrier islands, expansive salt marshes and 18th- and 19th-century Southern architecture. Begin your trip in historic and artsy Savannah, then drive south to the Golden Isles, a 100-mile stretch of maritime forests, wildlife-rich estuaries, wild beaches and coastal towns that evoke a bygone era.

Below: Savannah's Forsyth Park fountain

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF TELFAIR MUSEUMS; GETTY IMAGES/STACY FUNDERBURKE; COURTESY OF JEKYLL ISLAND CLUB HOTEL; COURTESY OF GOLDENISLES.COM

Clockwise from top left: Jepson Center for the Arts; Stillwater Paddling, Little St. Simons Island; Jekyll Island Club Hotel; St. Simons Island

STAY Built in 1886, the Jekyll Island Club Hotel is a grand historic landmark that once hosted guests with names like Rockefeller, Vanderbilt and Pulitzer. Its rooms are decorated with Victorian flair. From $131; jekyllclub.com

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Roughly the size of Manhattan, St. Simons Island is the largest and most developed of the Golden Isles, with shops, cafes and a pier. Neptune Park unfurls with a lawn and play areas all the way to the St. Simons Lighthouse Museum (saintsimonslighthouse.org). Activities on St. Simons include kayaking, golf and wandering the quiet inland streets beneath mossy oaks. East Beach is the island's best stretch of sand.

On the north end of St. Simons Island you’ll find Hampton River Marina, where, if you have a reservation, you can board a boat to privately owned Little St. Simons Island next door. This island is a 10,000-acre unspoiled jewel. It’s a haven for kayaking, interpretive nature tours and birding. The only way to enjoy it is by booking a room at the all-inclusive Lodge on Little St. Simons (littlessi .com) or by joining one of the lodge's day trips.

South of Little St. Simons is Sea Island, the other private island in the Golden Isles. Sea Island is less about raw nature and more about golf. Billed as a five-star golf retreat, with world-class resorts, the island features plenty of golf courses as well as restaurants, a 65,000-square-foot spa and fitness center, tennis and squash courts. There are five miles of private beach.

Head back to St. Simons and cross the Sidney Lanier Bridge to the Jekyll Island Causeway, the gateway to glorious Jekyll Island, once the stamping ground for America’s rich and famous. Woodlands and marshlands dominate the landscape, which is peppered with interesting architecture. The sweet spot here is Driftwood Beach. On the island’s northeast point, the beach is saturated with enormous washed-up oak trees and is magical at dawn.

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ARTISANS OF THE NEW WEST The artistry of the American West has long been celebrated and imitated around the world. Mass-produced, machine-stamped leather belts, cowboy hats and western-style jewelry can be found in souvenir shops from Florida to Japan. Despite this ubiquity, the time-honored craftsmanship of the region can still be found here. BY REBECCA WARREN | PHOTOGRAPHS BY AUBRIE PICK

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T

he geometrical spine of the Ruby Mountains runs along the southeast side of Elko, Nevada, providing a fierce demarcation of land and sky across the vast, empty plains. Elko is a hardscrabble high-desert town in northeastern Nevada; it was borne out of its proximity to the building of the First Transcontinental Railroad in the second half of the 19th century and sustained by its land’s mineral wealth. Gold has been pulled up from beneath this town in boom and bust cycles for more than a century now. Elko is the capital of Nevada’s goldbelt, and the state is the fifth largest producer of gold in the world, coming in behind the hauls produced by four entire countries. The main drag of this city is dotted with casinos and motels, punctuated by neon signs and the bright, ever-present lights of gas stations. The garish colors of Elko lie in stark contrast to the muted tones covering the mountains and valleys that spread out on either side of Interstate 80 as it passes by the city. Elko has been the unlikely home of the National Cowboy Poetry Gathering for the last 33 years, bringing working ranch hands, retired miners and lovers of western folklore to this place early each year to corral the myth and reality of life in the American West into a narrative that is both true and sustaining. This isn’t an easy place to live. Jobs are scarce, modern conveniences like Uber and Lyft and most big-box stores aren’t anywhere to be found, and the remote location gives the area a sense of isolation. Salt Lake City is the nearest place of note, a 230-mile drive across mountain ranges and the stark Bonneville Salt Flats. Instead of copious amounts of opportunities for consumerism, the miles of open, wild landscape and lack of urban sprawl offer their own rewards. The majesty of the mountains inspires creativity that can be seen in the ingenuity of the people and the artisanship on display. The traditional craftsmanship of the West remains strong in this region, with trades and crafts being passed down through generations, not only out of affection but also out of necessity. Here is a look at some of the modern West’s artisans at work.

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“THE MILES

Opposite page: A visitor at the Northeastern Nevada Museum studies a display of vintage firearms; Left: The neon lights of Elko’s casinos shine bright. Below: This is cattleranching country.

OF OPEN, WILD LANDSCAPE . . . OFFER THEIR OWN REWARDS.”

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The Capriola craftsmen J.M. Capriola Co. is a testament to the call of tradition that can be found throughout the West. For almost a century, this store has been Elko’s one-stop shop for working ranchers and those who want to festoon themselves with the trappings of the cowboy life but without the hard work. The store has passed hands from the Capriola family to other local ranching families through the years, but the dedication to quality, handmade gear has never waivered. Armando Delgado has been working at Capriola’s for the last 40 years, and making saddles for the past quarter century. He spends about 160 hours making each saddle, cutting leather, fashioning it together and hand-tooling designs. Most saddles go on to dusty, sweat-stained lives atop horses at nearby ranches, but some of Armando’s most elaborate and time-intensive works never get near a horse, and instead spend their days mounted in shadow boxes, on display in the art galleries of Japanese bankers as artifacts of the American West. On the other side of the workshop is Jonas Bushong, a 19-year-old shop apprentice and nephew of Capriola’s current owner. Bushong spent his high school years on the other side of the country, in Pennsylvania, after his parents moved away from the area, but as soon as he graduated he hightailed it back to Elko to live out his dual dreams of working at Capriola’s and riding on the professional rodeo tour. “I always knew I wanted to work here, since I was a little kid. And I tried skateboarding for a while out in Pennsylvania, but it’s just not as fun as rodeo,” Bushong says as he picks up strips of leather, one after the other, and runs a tool along the length of them to smooth the edges. He takes his apprenticeship and rodeo ambitions seriously, dedicating all his time to one or the other. His event is bronc riding, a highintensity, viciously fast, white-knuckle sport that seems at odds with his shy demeanor.

A detailed look inside the workshop at J.M. Capriola; Opposite page: Shop apprentice Jonas Bushong

“I ALWAYS KNEW I WANTED TO WORK HERE, SINCE I WAS A LITTLE KID.”

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You can keep your hat on A cowboy hat can tell you a lot about a person if you know what you are looking at. Historically, the shape of a hat could tell you where the cowboy spent his days, with Nevada cowboys often keeping the crown low and flat, with a wide brim, to deal with the hot, unflinching summer sun they endured on long days working cattle. This is often called the telescope style. A low crown is cooler than a high crown, which captures more warm air, to keep the head warm on cold nights. The material can tell you if the wearer is flush with cash or busted, and the creasing in the crown is often a matter of personal taste. John Wayne favored the diamond-style crease, which has a pinch in both the front and back of the crown, creating a triangle shape. Beaver and rabbit fur are the most expensive materials, and have a natural ability to repel water, making these hats more costly and also more durable, and the fibers allow the hats to be reshaped countless times. Cheaper hats are made of wool or straw. Wool hats are not naturally water resistant and do not take to reshaping, so while they are less expensive they will also become misshapen over time. Hat maker Brook Briddle has been fascinated with hats his whole life; he has spent the last 27 years crafting the perfect hat for each customer he meets. “My job is to make a hat that suits that person specifically. I only ever have one customer on my mind at a time,” he says. A high-quality custom hat, while expensive, can last a lifetime with proper care and maintenance. The best quality felt hats are made of beaver fur, which is felted and then trimmed and shaped to create the desired look. Depending on how much work they see, the hat will need to brought in to Brook, or another skilled cowboy hatter, once a year or so to be reshaped and steamed to retain its appearance and integrity. If a hatter can’t be found nearby, you can always try a little DIY hat steaming using a kettle and its steam, the way cowboys used to do it on the range.

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Songs from the saddle Two cowboys survey the boots at J.M. Capriola, Elko’s premiere western gear store.

Dom Flemons is a man with a mission. A Grammywinning musician, singer-songwriter, poet and selfdescribed American songster, he tours relentlessly around the world, sharing traditional forms of folk music with people who otherwise may never get a chance to experience these cornerstones of American musical heritage at all, let alone live. He’s also a multi-instrumentalist, playing everything from the bones to the banjo to the fife. Raised in Arizona, he started his musical career playing percussion in the high school band and quickly added the guitar and harmonica to his repertoire. He started playing folk music around the Phoenix area while still in school. He also had a brief and successful stint as a slam poet before returning to focusing solely on music. His current project, an album chronicling black cowboy music, will be out in a few months. The history

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“MANY BLACK SOLDIERS HEADED WEST TO GET JOBS AS COWBOYS.”

of black cowboys is an interesting and integral part of the settling of the American West that doesn’t often get mentioned in the retelling of the era’s history. After the Civil War ended, many black soldiers headed west to get jobs as cowboys, driving cattle across the plains. Just as sailors and farmers had done for centuries, cowboys sang to themselves and each other to pass the time. Flemons has been collecting songs that originated with black cowboys for his new project. Speaking about one of the tracks off the forthcoming album, the well-known cowboy tune “Goodbye Old Paint,” Flemons says: “It’s such an emotional song. It unfolds in such a nonlinear way; the verses don’t necessarily relate to one another, but it’s like the blues where you take all these small emotions

Dom Flemons, left, and Brian Farrow are masters of traditional American music.

and you put them all together and it becomes a very big feeling throughout the song.” The same can be said for the tradition of cowboy poetry itself. The art form is based on the smallest, quotidian reflections of life on the range, but when told over and over again by countless cowboys living out different versions of the same life across the West, the expansiveness and intimacy of that experience comes to bear, and builds into a community of experience, and into its own genre of American literature.

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“FOOD IS A BIG PART OF OUR CULTURE.” 52

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Serving up tradition Elko has been home to Basque restaurants for decades. Originally part of boarding houses that provided lodging for the sheepherders when the flocks were wintering in the desert, restaurants such as the Star Hotel have become part of the culinary landscape of northeastern Nevada. Many shepherds came from the Basque country from the late 19th until the mid 20th century, leaving behind the political and economic strife there to pursue prosperity in America. As is so often the case, some of the strongest ties back to their native land were expressed through food. Sharing the same meals with each other from one country to another created a bond across the miles and the years. The standard Basque meal is served family style, and starts with a soup, usually a chicken stock with meat and vegetables, and a salad along with bread and butter. The main course is hearty to say the least, consisting of an entrée of pork chops with roasted peppers and handfuls of garlic, or another meat dish, plus spaghetti, beans, french fries and vegetables. This is Basque food done American-style, with the use of heavier meats such as beef, lamb and pork taking dominance over the fish and seafood dishes that are more readily available in the old country. The influence of the Basque culture on the area adds a unique flair to this desert region. These traditions are still upheld at the Elko Basque Club, which also puts on the National Basque Festival each summer, featuring traditional dances, rural sports competitions including wood chopping and weightlifting, regional food tastings and a parade. Club members range from the original sheepherders who arrived from the Basque country in the 1960s and can regale you with stories of summers

Opposite page: A selection of the food served at a Basque meal at the Star Hotel. Above and left: Zach Arbillaga prepares the traditional Basque dish bacalao, salt cod in tomato sauce, in the Elko Basque Club kitchen.

spent entirely on their own, moving sheep from hillside to hillside with only a rifle and the company of two dogs for weeks on end, to third-generation Nevadans who attended cultural lessons at the clubhouse to learn Basque dances and take language classes. Zach Arbillaga is one of these third-generation kids, and the current vice president of the Elko Basque Club. “Food is a big part of our culture, and with the fact that there are no new Basque coming over, [cooking is] an important part of keeping the tradition alive. It’s how everyone knows us here,” Arbillaga says as he pats dry cod fillets with paper towels. The famous Basque hospitality is on full display as he insists on cooking his family’s version of the dish bacalao as we talk, complete with a robust tomato sauce made by his grandmother. His grandparents met at one of the Basque boarding houses decades ago, and his family still calls Elko home today, working hard to keep the Basque tradition alive in the region.

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MAKE IT HAPPEN

Weaving the past into the present Hailing from generations of weavers in the Oaxacan region of Mexico, Antonio Mendoza was born with a love for the art running through his veins. He has spent most of his life weaving textiles in the Zapotec tradition, using wool dyed with natural substances found around his family farm. He brought these methods with him when he moved to Orange County, where he continues to collect cochineal beetles from cactus to dry in the sun. He then grinds them into paste with lime juice and salt to create the brilliant reds found in his work. He collects pomegranate skins to create yellows, and indigo plant to make blues and greens. Mendoza is adamant that he adheres to the traditional ways of weaving, believing in the importance of preserving the cultural heritage of the Zapotec Indians. Mendoza makes each design up as he goes, holding all of the patterns and colorways in his mind as he works. This method also ensures that no two pieces are ever the same, each one a product of the moment and Mendoza’s creative whim. He still works on the same wooden loom that his great-grandfather used, its wobbly wooden pieces showing the generations of use in its scores of dents and nicks, but the steadiness of Antonio’s hands as he passes the shuttle back and forth through the loom embodies the piece with beauty and character, proving that once again, function prevails over form.

Right: Antonio Mendoza uses yarn he dyed using traditional methods to weave a rug. Opposite page: On the ranch, even work boots are an opportunity to show off some personal flair.

Elko is in a remote part of northeastern Nevada, but consider making it a day trip from either Salt Lake City, Utah (3½ hours east by car), or Reno, Nevada (four hours southwest).

Stop in to J.M. Capriola to peruse an impressive assortment of western wear and horse gear, and catch a glimpse of the artisans at work on the second floor (capriolas.com). Across the street from Capriola’s is the Western Folklife Center, which has a small but interesting exhibition gallery, a historic saloon and a gift shop featuring items made in the region (westernfolklife.org).

Go West It’s well worth your time to cruise on past the metropolises of Las Vegas, Reno and Salt Lake City and spend a while getting to know the people and the artisans out here on the plains. The American West has a storied past, filled with larger-than-life characters and tales of eking out a life on land that is often inhospitable, and sometimes downright hostile. Art and suffering are often equated, and in these vast, open landscapes filled with potential and not much in the way of creature comforts, that equation seems to hold true. The modern West is short on pretense and long on authenticity.

Around the corner is Cowboy Joe, a charming little coffee shop that is the best place to get your caffeine fix in Elko (cowboy joecoffee.com). Just down the street is the Star Hotel, the place to go for a traditional Basque meal. Do note that this is just up the street from the town’s area of legal brothels (eatdrinkandbebasque.com).

For more: Brooks Briddle powderriverhats.com; Dom Flemons theamericansongster.com; Brian Farrow brianfarrow.com; Elko Basque Club elkobasqueclub.com; Anthony Mendoza email: eltelarstudio@gmail.com

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ROOTING FOR THE HOME TEAM A N M L B P L AY E R A N D F A N S S H A R E T H E I R FAV O R I T E M E M O R I E S O F A M E R I C A’ S I C O N I C B A S E B A L L S TA D I U M S ILLUSTRATIONS BY LAURÈNE BOGLIO

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STAY: VERB HOTEL has a retro, mid-century cool with rooms that face Fenway. theverbhotel.com EAT & DRINK: BLEACHER BAR offers a view of center field from under the stands. bleacherbarboston.com Stadium illustration should fit inside this area 5”t X 6”w (12.7cm X 15.24cm)

THE GREATEST THING ABOUT BEING IN FENWAY PARK

as either a player or a fan is its history. Newer, luxury stadiums cannot recreate the stories that the walls and seats in Fenway Park can tell. When I was 12 years old I was able to attend a game in Boston. I remember the buzz in the stadium the entire game that you don't get at other ballparks, and the fans embracing me, an out-of-towner, to tell me of the history of the Red Sox. I loved the old-time scoreboard where a person still changes all the numbers from inside the outfield wall. From that moment on it was my dream to pitch at Fenway Park. When I made my Major League debut while playing for the Yankees, I was able to live out that dream while also experiencing the most intense rivalry in sports; 38,000 fans booed us and jeered us, yet they respected us and the rivalry. That was the moment I knew how special this ballpark was.

DO: WALLY’S CAFE is a small, scrappy jazz club that’s served up the real deal every night of the year since 1947. wallyscafe.com

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LONE RED SEAT, TO MARK THE LONGEST HOME RUN HIT HERE (502 FEET)

Later in my career I was traded to the Red Sox and was able to get a consistent taste of Fenway Park. Each day I rode the T (subway) to the park so I could feed off that excitement from the fans, and I would regularly treat myself to one of the most special spots in Fenway Park: the inside of the famous Green Monster, which has the autographs of baseball legends going back decades. Even the bullpen, which is not high enough for you to stand straight up in without hitting your head, had a wonderful feel to it. You don't go to Fenway Park to lay out or bask in the luxuries of newer stadiums. You go to Fenway Park to experience baseball as close as possible to the way it was played when the park opened in 1912. MARK MELANCON (@MARK_MELANCON_) IS A SAN FRANCISCO GIANTS PITCHER.

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DETROIT STAY: INN ON FERRY STREET is a charming B&B in a row of Victorian mansions. innonferrystreet.com

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I GREW UP GOING TO OLD TIGER STADIUM WITH MY DAD.

I was born with the Old English D figuratively imprinted onto my heart. When the Tigers won the World Series in 1984, I was barely a year old. And for the rest of my childhood, the Tigers were perennially at the bottom of the standings. This culminated with a 119-loss season in 2003 – one loss away from tying the 1962 New York Mets’ dubious record of the most losses in modern-era MLB history. Just three years later, I was sitting in the stands of Comerica Park watching my beloved Tigers stand one game away from clinching the American League pennant. It was the bottom of the ninth inning of the 2006 American League Championship Series. The Tigers were taking on the Oakland Athletics. The score was tied 3-3. Magglio Ordóñez stepped to the plate with two outs. The Tigers had not won the pennant since 1984. I groaned as Mags stepped up to

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EAT & DRINK: ELWOOD BAR & GRILL is an art deco gem at the gate of the stadium that has been serving food and drinks to sports fans for decades. elwoodgrill.com DO: DETROIT INSTITUTE OF ARTS is a world-class museum. dia.org

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FT. FIELD’S LOCATION BELOW STREET LEVEL

the plate and looked to my left as my friend Chris smiled and said, “Bet you $20 he hits a home run.” Before the “-ne” could leave my lips as I said “fine,” the crack of the bat rung out and the ball soared into the left field stands. It was the best $20 I ever lost. As someone who has been to a game at all 30 parks, I can say with authority that Comerica is a must visit. At “CoPa,” there is a carousel for the kids to ride, a Ferris wheel where the family can catch a glimpse of Ford Field next door, and Tigers historical memorabilia spread throughout the concourse. I could go on, but really, you just have to visit to experience it for yourself. Detroit is an amazing city. MUNEESH JAIN (@ROUNDINGTHIRDMJ), CO-HOSTS A BASEBALL PODCAST, THE CLUBHOUSE PODCAST (@CLUBHOUSEPOD), WITH ANTHONY RAPP.

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PITTSBURGH STAY: KIMPTON HOTEL MONACO is packed with stylish and quirky details and excellent city views. monaco-pittsburgh.com EAT & DRINK: MEAT & POTATOES is the city’s only gastropub and has an excellent selection of brews and food. meatandpotatoespgh.com DO: ANDY WARHOL MUSEUM is just steps away from PNC Park. Spend some time exploring the work of the city’s coolest citizen. warhol.org

PNC PARK COMBINES THE CITY’S HISTORY WITH NEW STADIUM LUXURY MAGNIFICENTLY.

Most players and fans get to the field by walking across the Clemente Bridge, named after the most legendary Pittsburgh Pirate of all, Roberto Clemente. The North Shore neighborhood where the stadium is located is lined with sports bars and restaurants, and on game days,

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HOME OF THE PIRATES

the streets in front of the ballpark are closed off so fans can tailgate all around the ballpark. It’s a festive atmosphere every night. There are some unique perspectives to PNC Park for fans, the most unique being the right field seats above a 21-foot wall to represent Clemente’s playing number, 21. There isn’t a bad view in that ballpark as it has a smaller capacity than many other MLB stadiums, which is exciting because the fans really get close to the action no matter where their seats are in the stadium. As a player, you need that adrenaline rush from the fans because it is easy to get caught up in the beautiful landscape. The view looking out from home plate, with the Clemente Bridge and Pittsburgh’s skyline, is unparalleled in sports. It feels like you’re in a painting and the walk from our dugout to the bullpen is like walking across a field of dreams. MARK MELANCON (@MARK_MELANCON_) IS A SAN FRANCISCO GIANTS PITCHER.

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SAN FRANCISCO STAY: HOTEL VITALE offers bay views with luxe touches, and an easy walk along the Embarcado to the stadium. jdvhotels.com

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WHEN MOST PEOPLE THINK OF SAN FRANCISCO THEY THINK OF SILICON VALLEY OR WINE COUNTRY,

but AT&T Park in the heart of downtown is one of the best venues in the world, and it has the second-longest active sellout streak in baseball to prove it at 489 games. One of my favorite aspects of AT&T Park is that there are no bullpens. Relief pitchers must warm up down the right or left field line, right next to the fans. When you are on the visiting team, the

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EAT & DRINK: 21ST AMENDMENT is a great place for a beer and bite before or after a game. 21st-amendment.com DO: TENDERLOIN MUSEUM is a perfect way to understand this historic and diverse neighborhood, the city’s former red light district. tenderloinmuseum.org

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HEIGHT OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST BASEBALL GLOVE (HOUSED IN THE PARK)

fans are aggressively bantering with you through each warm-up pitch, reminding you that you are the enemy in their ballpark. As a former opposing pitcher, I can assure you we hear every word said even while we are doing our best to act like we don’t. Since tickets are so hard to come by, many fans congregate on kayaks and boats in McCovey Cove, a section of the San Francisco Bay behind the right field wall. Some listen to the game on radios. Others have a TV with them. But when a ball is hit deep to right field, they all scramble in hopes of getting their hands on one of the most unique souvenirs in baseball: a water-soaked home run ball. MARK MELANCON (@MARK_MELANCON_) IS A SAN FRANCISCO GIANTS PITCHER.

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CHICAGO STAY: MAJESTIC HOTEL is a cozy, English manor-inspired hotel a short walk from Wrigley. majestic-chicago.com EAT & DRINK: MURPHY’S BLEACHERS is a Cubs game institution for pre- and post-game drinks, so expect a packed house and raucous atmosphere on game days. murphysbleachers.com Stadium illustration should fit inside this area 5”t X 6”w (12.7cm X 15.24cm)

WRIGLEY FIELD IS BY FAR THE MOST PERFECT STADIUM

to experience the magic of a baseball game. I have the distinct privilege of having been to all 30 Major League Baseball stadiums, and I freely admit that I have a large amount of bias that comes along with being a lifelong Cubs fan. To begin, the ivy that covers the outfield walls in the summer is perfectly verdant: lush and beautiful. Almost every other stadium’s outfield walls are overcome by advertisements large and small, but at Wrigley, there’s only the ivy, subtly interrupted by a small logo here, a recognizable phrase there, that does almost nothing to distract the eye from the glory of a line drive that finds the glove of a center fielder who has expertly traced the route of the ball off the bat to locate the sinking line drive into his glove on the dead run. There are very few ballparks that relate so powerfully and resonantly with their neighborhoods the way that Wrigley Field, well past its 100th anniversary, does. You can enjoy strolling through the streets of Lincoln Park and Wrigleyville and come upon the ballpark as easily

DO: SECOND CITY serves up improv-ed laughs and sketch shows nightly. secondcity.com

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OLDEST STADIUM IN MAJOR LEAGUE BASEBALL

and unexpectedly as you would come upon a local coffee shop or burger joint, except that if you set foot into its friendly confines, you will be transported to an era before almost every conceivable modern convenience, to a time when all there was was the sound of a ball squarely hit by a piece of wood, which led to wonder and thrills and joy as the player in question who struck that ball rounded the bases. There is still a dedicated organ player at Wrigley. There is a profoundly proud and fervent legion of fans that populate its bleachers that line its ivy-covered outfield. There is the impeccably cultivated field, and the perfectly intimate vantage point that is achievable from almost any seat in its venerable stadium. In short, there is nothing quite like seeing a baseball game at Wrigley Field. ANTHONY RAPP (@ALBINOKID), A STAGE AND FILM ACTOR, IS APPEARING IN THE NEW CBS TV SERIES STAR TREK: DISCOVERY.

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BY T I M M O O R E

@ M RT I M M O O R E | P H OTO G R A P H S BY M AT T M U N R O

America’s national parks have been called the country’s best idea – and it’s an idea that took hold in the wondrous pocket planet that is Yellowstone, the world’s first and, some would argue, most magnificent, national park.

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sat there in amazement while my companions came up, and after that, it seemed to me that it was five minutes before anyone spoke.” So wrote Charles Cook in 1869, recording his expedition’s dumbstruck arrival at the head of a 20-milelong, 1,200-foot-deep gorge crowned by a mighty green cataract and flanked with steaming, hissing walls of crimson, mauve and yellow. Cook’s expedition had been dispatched to the lonely Montana–Wyoming border after wide-eyed fur trappers and prospectors came back from the region with tall tales of hot waterfalls that rose upward, of petrified forests and an alien world of fire and brimstone that trembled underfoot and belched orange gas and boiling mud. Silenced awe became the Cook party’s default mode; it was all true. That such a well-trodden nation, by then already an established global superpower, should have secretly nurtured this extraordinary lost kingdom seemed almost unbelievable. For most, it still was: the U.S. government accepted Cook’s account only when a further expedition returned with irrefutable photographic evidence.

The park’s tallest waterfall, the Lower Falls plunges 308 feet into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

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Grand Prismatic Spring, the park’s largest hot spring, is about 370 feet in diameter and more than 120 feet deep.

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pproaching Yellowstone National Park, I can understand the skepticism. Wyoming, where 96 percent of the park lies – the rest is in Montana and Idaho – is dominated by the discouraging, dun-colored nothingness of the High Plains in the southeastern part of the state. The scenery wakes up in northwestern Wyoming outside Cody, a city founded by and named after William “Buffalo Bill” Cody, and suddenly I’m driving through mighty canyons and gilded forests. A wide-open-sky sunset lends every vista a cinematic majesty. By the time I pass beneath the twilit pinelog eaves of Yellowstone’s eastern entrance, I’m beginning to channel Charles Cook, to grasp the sudden surge of protective pride that led to the 3,000 astounding square miles before me being enshrined – just two years after its resident wonders were proven to exist – as the world’s first national park. “Withdrawn from settlement, occupancy or sale,” the 1872 Yellowstone Park Protection Act stirringly decreed, “for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.” The Lake Yellowstone Hotel overlooks a vast and placid body of moonlit water. Built in 1891 and designated a National Historic Landmark

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two years ago, the hotel exudes the genteel grandeur of a bygone tourist age, with a White House-grade portico, iron bedsteads primly clad in sheets, and an unapologetic absence of TV and air conditioning. As I patrol the endless corridors and cavernous reception areas, my lungs remind my head that we’re more than 7,000 feet above sea level. “We’re all suckers for nostalgia,” says a uniformed receptionist. “Folks come here to see what their country used to look like and to experience it how those early visitors did.” Simply getting to Yellowstone in the prerailway age was a substantial undertaking. The reward that made it all worthwhile was firsthand experience of the park’s uniquely weird geothermal wonders. Yellowstone is home to more than half of the world’s geysers, fumaroles, hot springs and other related phenomena, and the sole founding purpose of Yellowstone National Park was to save them from mineral exploitation and the tacky intrusiveness that had recently despoiled Niagara Falls. In 1872, The New York Times described the contemporary fascination with these “extraordinary and sometimes terrible manifestations of nature,” though back then

they didn’t know the half of it. Only in recent decades have researchers established that the 40-mile circular area encompassing the world’s most famous geyser, Old Faithful, is a gigantic caldera – the collapsed cone of a supervolcano. Yellowstone erupts on average once every 650,000 years, in the process entombing half a continent under many feet of ash, and pitching the entire planet into a dark and poisoned volcanic winter. It last did so 640,000 years ago. This knowledge lends a touch of portent to my tour of the park’s magma-related wonders. Old Faithful does its job, firing a glittering hot sheaf of water at least 100 feet into the blue sky before an amphitheater of video cameras. More compelling are the sprawling geothermal areas of Norris Geyser Basin, the hottest and oldest thermal area, and Grand Prismatic Spring, at 370 feet in diameter the park’s largest hot spring. These boiled and flatulent prog-rock moonscapes are fringed by sickly pines, both a retrospective of how Earth began and perhaps a preview of its apocalyptic end. No natural wonders are more gloriously unnatural: the crusted oranges and iridescent blues look as pure and wholesome as the runoff from a battery factory, with a reek to match.

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GRAND PRISMATIC SPRING

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Five miles north of Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic Spring is the largest hot spring in the U.S. and the third-largest in the world. It also has a credible claim to being the most surreal sight in Yellowstone, with deep-blue waters surrounded by rainbow-colored rings of algae. Boardwalk trails lead around the misty fringes of the pool.

Grand Prismatic Spring

“ IT TO O K R E A L C O U R AG E TO D R AW A LI N E I N T H E SA N D H E RE A N D SAY ‘ E N O U G H .’” Old Faithful geyser

ellowstone’s administrators were oblivious to the park’s nonvolcanic treasures until the late 1880s. Ancient forests were disappearing across the nation and entire species were pushed to the brink of extinction, notably the native bison population, which had been reduced from millions to less than 1,000. By 1902, poachers had further reduced the bison herd to about two dozen. “We’re a country rich in resources and it’s still in our pioneering psyche to want to grab and exploit them to the full,” says regular visitor and amateur naturalist Stacey Allen, peering through an enormous spotting scope across a flood plain dotted with a few of the 5,500 bison that today roam freely through Yellowstone National Park. “It took real courage to draw a line in the sand here and say ‘enough.’” By ring-fencing its volcanic attractions, the park’s directors had accidentally created a huge and suddenly rare nature reserve. To safeguard it against poachers, the military was brought in. In 1916, with a world war to fight and a massive surge of tourists in Ford Model Ts to marshal, the Army gave way to the newly created National Park Service. Today, the NPS oversees more than 400 properties, including 59 designated national parks – from Alaska to Hawaii and including U.S. territories – that cover more than 84 million acres and attract 300 million visitors annually. With its devotion to recycling and other environmental initiatives, the NPS has been a beacon in the fog that sometimes shroud’s America’s environmental awareness. Another species that has benefited from national awareness of environmental issues is the gray wolf, which was present when Yellowstone was established but had virtually vanished by the mid-1900s. Having been systematically eliminated, wolves were successfully reintroduced in 1995 – a missing link in a food chain then topped by the coyotes that were killing off the park’s pronghorn antelope. The NPS estimates that as of January 2016, there were at least 98 wolves in 10 packs living within the park, and 528 wolves in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Summer 2017

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A herd of bison strolls past the steaming Mud Volcano in Hayden Valley, north of Yellowstone Lake.

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eople still come to Yellowstone for the geothermal action – “I mean, how many times can you say you rode your bike round the rim of a volcano?” says one of the many Harley-Davidson riders who file through at the stately 45 mph speed limit – but they stay for the wildlife. With one of the largest concentrations of wild animals in America, Yellowstone offers a virtually unparalleled opportunity to see animals in their natural habitat. Topping

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most visitors’ want-to-see list are wolves, bison (large herds are a common sight), bears (Yellowstone is home to grizzlies and black bears), moose (fewer than 200 remain in the area) and elk. Also in the park are pronghorn, badgers, bald eagles, trumpeter swans, foxes and, though they’re rarely seen, wolverines and lynxes. Spring is the best time to see baby animals, including grizzlies, which emerge from their dens in March, and bison, which are born in

April and can be spotted with their herds throughout spring, summer and fall. Elk are seen throughout the park – their summer population is estimated at 15,000 to 25,000 – and the best time to see them at lower elevations is during their mating season, early September to mid-October. A proven method for observing wildlife, especially bears: drive around until you hit a logjam of parked vehicles, then get out to see what everyone has stopped to look at.

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Yellowstone’s roads cover just five percent of the park, yet within a couple of days’ driving I encountered every landmark species except a wolf: a bull elk in the roadside pines, bugling hopefully for a mate; a speckled osprey, posing for an hour on a conspicuous bough overlooking a roadside pull-off; a moth-eaten coyote halfheartedly stalking a pronghorn; and most of the park’s bison, rolling about in the dust, grazing in the dawn mist or ambling en masse up the road, their

huge minotaur-like heads brushing my vehicle’s side-view mirrors. So confidently approachable does the wildlife seem, that you begin to wonder if they’ve been bribed to satisfy the very low boredom threshold of any Disney-fed visitors who come expecting sights to be served up on demand. A crowd gathered in the churchyard of Mammoth Hot Springs, the small town built for the park’s original military guardians, leads me to a black bear asleep in a tree.

Someone says it was spotted by guests at an afternoon wedding, as the photographer marshaled the bride’s family beneath. National Park Service ranger Bridget Hand is standing by to make sure that everyone keeps a safe distance. “Yellowstone is like a pocket wilderness, an accessible place for people who live in big cities and have never, ever experienced wildlife in a natural setting,” she says. “I get asked where we put the animals at night.” Summer 2017

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“WE NEVER H AV E A N I T I N E R A RY WHEN WE SET OFF O N A T RI P – I T ’S J U S T ABOUT WHEREVER T H E ROA D TA K E S U S .”

LAMAR VALLEY –

The Lamar Valley, in northern Yellowstone, is one of the best places to spot wildlife in the park. WOLVES

The expansive valley is home to the park’s largest wolf pack, the Druid Pack. The stretch between the Lamar River Trailhead and the Lamar Canyon in particular is a favorite haunt of wolf packs. Dusk and dawn are the best times to spot them. BISON, BEARS & MORE

Other animals roaming the area include bison, grizzly bears, pronghorn and coyotes.

Danielle and Alex Sonsini, by their restored RV at Mammoth Hot Springs // Opposite, from left: A view from a trail leading from Mammoth Hot Springs // Bathers relaxing in Boiling River

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BOILING RIVER –

South of Gardiner, Montana, in the Mammoth area of Yellowstone, a hot spring named Boiling River flows into the Gardiner River, causing hot and cold water to mix in pools along the river’s edge (pictured at right). This is one of the few places where you can swim in the park – though not in spring due to hazardous high water – and it’s also a good place to spot elk, pronghorn and bighorn sheep.

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lex and Danielle Sonsini are experienced national parkers, so they’re not likely to be asking too many ill-informed questions. It’s been four weeks since they hitched a lovingly restored 1968 Avion caravan recreational vehicle to their pickup truck and set out from New York City, with venerable Labrador retriever Augie sitting between them. “A couple of years back we did a five-month trip all the way to Alaska and back, stopping in every national park along the way,” says Danielle, who chucked in a high-flying career in information technology to satisfy her wanderlust. “Out in these places you see unspoiled scenery, but you also find unspoiled

people.” Alex, a corporate chef-turned-sculptor, feels plugged into the oldest American tradition. “Our country was founded by pretty adventurous travelers, and then explored by pioneers in covered wagons. We never have an itinerary when we set off on a trip – it’s just about wherever the road takes us.” It’s a comment that resonates throughout the balance of my tour. Yellowstone is more than a pocket wilderness. It’s a pocket planet, a theme park of iconic global scenery. Germanic pine forest, mouthwash-blue Scandinavian waterfalls, the Russian steppes, Mexican scrubland, boggy Gaelic moors and even a swathe of sub-Saharan savannah: it’s all here. Yellowstone even gets around-the-

world weather packed into a day, from subzero mist to wilting sun, via a couple of thundery hailstorms. Yet at the same time, this place is like nowhere else on Earth. The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, that psychedelic cleft in the land that reduced Charles Cook to slack-jawed silence, might more convincingly belong in another solar system. At the Sonsinis’ suggestion, I round off my trip with another utterly incomparable experience: Boiling River, the only place in Yellowstone where you’re allowed to swim, and for much of the year the only place you’d want to. A half-mile walk from an anonymous parking lot follows the frigid Gardner River to its confluence with the aforementioned geothermal spring. Here, an artful arrangement of rocky pens blends the skinflaying and bone-chilling waters. Each is home to half a dozen lolling bathers, their blissedout, parboiled faces as red as the setting sun behind them. They are at one with the volcanic heritage that secured this park its pioneering protected status and, in doing so, kick-started the whole concept of environmental stewardship. “For the benefit and enjoyment of the people,” I think, stripping down to my underwear and treading gingerly over the slippery stones to join them. Then I lie back with my head on a smooth boulder, gaze dreamily around at the lumpy brown hillsides and let the sulfurous warmth embalm me, a benevolent gift from the volcanic gods, who, if we’re lucky, will stay asleep for another few hundred thousand years. Summer 2017

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“OUT IN TH E SE PL AC E S YO U SE E U NSP O I LE D SCE N E RY, B U T YO U A L SO FI N D U NSP O I LE D PEO PLE .” The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

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MAKE IT HAPPEN / Yellowstone SPOTTING WILDLIFE

BISON

Bison, the biggest mammals on the continent, can run up to 30 mph. You can easily spot them, but keep a safe distance.

GRIZZLY BEAR

Occasionally aggressive, grizzlies inhabit forests and meadows. Look for them at dawn and dusk. The NPS recommends staying at least 300 yards away.

BLACK BEAR

AIRPORTS

PARK ENTRANCE

APPROX. DISTANCE

BOZEMAN YELLOWSTONE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

NORTH

93 MILES

YELLOWSTONE REGIONAL AIRPORT

EAST

67 MILES

JACKSON HOLE AIRPORT

SOUTH

50 MILES

IDAHO FALLS REGIONAL AIRPORT

WEST

110 MILES

YELLOWSTONE AIRPORT (Usually open June to September)

WEST

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MAP: STUART KOLAKOVIC

HIKING IN BEAR COUNTRY

Bears rarely bother hikers in Yellowstone, but if you’re walking in bear country it’s wise to make plenty of noise to alert them to your presence. Some hikers choose to sing; others shout when heading around blind corners. If you do encounter a grizzly or a black bear, never run. Bears instinctively pursue fleeing animals and can easily outrun the fastest human – and black bears are capable tree climbers, too. Instead of running, back away slowly, talking reassuringly to the bear while avoiding direct eye contact. Sometimes bears will mock-charge hikers,

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turning away at the last moment. However, if an attack is imminent, play dead, shield your neck with your hands and pull your knees up to your chest. The Yellowstone National Park website has more information on keeping on good terms with bears (nps.gov/yell).

GETTING AROUND

There is no public transportation to or within Yellowstone National Park. Car rental is available at Jackson Hole. A seven-day admission pass to the national park is $30 per vehicle.

These bears are smaller and less aggressive than grizzlies, but you should still exercise caution around them. Spot black bears during the summer around the Mammoth area.

GRAY WOLF

Reintroduced into Yellowstone in 1995 after 60 years of absence, gray wolves appear most often at dawn and dusk.

ELK

The most common large mammal found in Yellowstone, elk can be seen rutting in September and October.

PRONGHORN

Smaller than an elk and similar to an antelope, the pronghorn often can be observed in the Lamar Valley in summer.

For more: Lonely Planet’s Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks | National Park Service (nps.gov) | National Park Foundation (nationalparks.org) | Yellowstone Forever (yellowstone.org)

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New York is the backdrop to some of Hollywood’s greatest cinematic moments. From Audrey Hepburn arriving on Fifth Avenue in Breakfast at Tiffany’s to an alien invasion appearing over Manhattan in Independence Day, we’ve seen the Big Apple in countless movies. Some locations are iconic, but others go unnoticed by passersby. Follow in the fictional footsteps of villains and monsters, lovers and superheroes on this tour of some of the city’s film sites. BY OLIVER SMITH

@OLISMITHTRAVEL

G A N G ST E R S

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

Start a gangster movie pilgrimage in Brooklyn – specifically the Dumbo (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) area. These days this is an affluent, bohemian neighborhood of organic food stores and little galleries, but in the 1920s it was a disheveled manufacturing district. Director Sergio Leone chose it as the setting for his crime saga, Once Upon a Time in America (1984). Head to the corner of Washington and Water Streets to see the view made famous from the movie poster: warehouses framing a view of the Manhattan Bridge, with the Empire State Building visible under its arches. Next, catch the F train from York Street to Broadway– Lafayette Street.

Not to be confused with the much bigger and more famous St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the 19th-century St. Patrick’s Old Cathedral (free; oldcathedral.org) is an eerily quiet sanctuary from the busy streets of Little Italy. It sees few

visitors, although its cool, stark interior welcomed a small congregation at the end of The Godfather (1972), in the scene where the infant son of Connie Corleone (Talia Shire) is baptized (the baby boy was played by Sofia Coppola, daughter of the film’s director, Francis Ford Coppola). Keep things in the Corleone family by stopping by Vazac’s Horseshoe Bar (108 Avenue B), a 20-minute walk to the East Village’s Alphabet City neighborhood. In the 1930s, this was a canteen for Polish workers (you can still see the faded signage outside), but it’s long since evolved into a boisterous dive bar, with smoky-wood interiors lit by neon signs and flashing pinball machines. Vazac’s starred in The Godfather Part II (1974), in the scene where the Rosato brothers attempt to strangle Frank Pentangeli (Michael V. Gazzo). More than a decade later, in less violent circumstances, Mick Dundee (Paul Hogan) sipped pints here in Crocodile Dundee (1986). Summer 2017

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–Travis Bickle, portrayed by Robert De Niro in Taxi Driver (above)

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COLUMBIA/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

“Loneliness has followed me my whole life. Everywhere. In bars, in cars, sidewalks, stores, everywhere. There’s no escape. I’m God’s lonely man.”

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Times Square’s seedy 1970s image, seen in Martin Scorsese’s Taxi Driver (opposite), contrasts sharply with its family friendly vibe today (left).

“Often actors like the place when they’re filming here, and come back later for a drink in disguise,” says bartender Erin Lynn O’Connor from behind the hefty timber bar. “I had to pretend not to recognize Scarlett Johansson [when she came in]. The only problem is when the film crews rearrange all the bottles. That can make my life difficult.” Catch the 6 train – hijacked in the thriller The Taking of Pelham One Two Three (1974) – northbound from Astor Place to Grand Central Terminal.

A railway station that might have been a cathedral in a previous life, Grand Central (grandcentralterminal.com) is the crossroads from which Manhattan visitors orient themselves. Among those lost in this vast marble maze was Carlito Brigante (Al Pacino) who, in the final tragic scenes of Carlito’s Way (1993), runs to catch a train to Miami before dying from gunshot wounds on the platform. No one told him Miami trains actually depart from nearby Penn Station. Show sympathy by visiting the escalator from which he shoots at his pursuers; it’s by the exit to 45th Street.

still be found on the junction of Eighth Avenue and 47th Street. In a similar spirit of voyeurism, the old cinema recently has served as a booth selling tickets for sightseeing tours on open-top buses.

Catch the 6 train from Grand Central to 23rd Street. Catch the N or Q train to Astoria Boulevard station.

Few visitors prioritize a trip to Astoria Boulevard in Queens, but this is where you will find Jackson Hole Burgers (meals from about $11; jacksonholeburgers.com), occupying a miraculously preserved stainless steel 1950s diner. It’s here audiences first encounter the adult Henry Hill (Ray Liotta) in Goodfellas (1990), and here where the character learns the fine art of stealing trucks. Rather than practicing your hot-wiring skills in the parking lot, step inside for a burger and reflect on Henry’s childhood dream: “As far back as I can remember, I always wanted to be a gangster. To me, being a gangster was better than being President of the United States.”

HEROES

FERDINAND STOHR

Take the S train to Times Square.

Though it’s now synonymous with giant screens and family-friendly attractions, the Times Square of the 1970s was a den of vice – full of sex shops and strip clubs. As such, it was much beloved of insomniac and gangsterslayer Travis Bickle (Robert De Niro) in Taxi Driver (1976). The famous spot where Bickle strolls nonchalantly out of a porn cinema can

(Christopher Reeve). Its centerpiece is a giant, slowly rotating globe; in various other Superman comics and movies, the globe was transplanted to the roof of the building.

Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No, it’s the Daily News Building, which appeared as the fictional offices of the Daily Planet in Superman (1978). This is still a working office (albeit one where journalists wear their underpants inside their trousers); however, anyone can wander into the spectacular art deco lobby of the East 42nd Street building that stars as the workplace of Clark Kent

Speaking of heroic workplaces, the Flatiron Building on Fifth Avenue is one of New York’s oldest skyscrapers, dating back to 1902. It’s so named because its triangular shape resembles a clothes iron. The building houses the offices of the fictional Daily Bugle, on whose payroll you’ll find Peter Parker (Tobey Maguire), aka Spider-Man (2002). Unfortunately, non-office workers can’t go inside (though maybe you could practice climbing the exterior walls). Walk 10 blocks north on Fifth Avenue.

The uppermost reaches of the Empire State Building (admission from $34; esbnyc.com) was the meeting point for Tom Hanks and Meg Ryan in Sleepless in Seattle (1993) and, rather less romantically, between a giant gorilla and squadron of fighter planes in King Kong (1933); some of the scenes from that classic “talkie” were filmed on the actual skyscraper, which then had only recently been completed. For most scenes, however, they used a model of the 1,454-foot-tall structure, plus a 24-inch gorilla fashioned out of rubber and rabbit fur. Catch the B, D, F or M train southbound from 34th Street–Herald Square to West Fourth Street.

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“If it was never new, and it never gets old, then it’s a folk song.” –Llewyn Davis, portrayed by Oscar Isaac in Inside Llewyn Davis (right)

Take a 10-minute walk northwest to Christopher Street.

Greenwich Village is also home to one of New York’s greatest unsung landmarks. Hitchcock’s thriller Rear Window (1954) may have been filmed on a stage in Hollywood, but it was set in Manhattan, and film historians say the director modeled the home of character L.B. Jefferies (James Stewart) on the apartments at 125 Christopher St. Like “Jeff ” Jefferies, you can’t go poking about inside, and will have to make do with snooping from a distance. Take the 1 train south from Christopher Street to Sheridan Square.

Barely two stories high, Hook & Ladder 8 is dwarfed by its high-rise neighbors in New York’s Financial District. A working fire station, this was one of many in Manhattan involved in the Sept. 11 rescue operations, but it also served as the headquarters of another (fictional) rescue outfit in Ghostbusters (1984).

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It isn’t officially open to the public, but knock on the red door and if you’re lucky the staff might just have time to show you around. “It doesn’t actually annoy us,” says Oscar Garcia, a fireman who works at Hook & Ladder 8. “We like meeting people from all over the world. Even if they come here dressed up in ghost costumes or covered in green slime.”

ROMANTICS Katz’s Deli (katzsdelicatessen.com), on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, has appeared in Across the Universe (2007), Donnie Brasco (1997) and an episode of TV’s Law and Order. But for most customers, Katz’s will forever be the restaurant where Sally Albright (Meg Ryan) does the “I’ll have what she’s having” fake orgasm routine in When Harry Met Sally (1989). A sign marks the precise table, for fans who want to re-create the scene. “It happens about once a week,” says owner Jake Katz. “If it’s a bad impression, it can be embarrassing, but good ones are entertaining. We had a group of crossdressers doing it recently. That was cool.” Founded in 1888 as a kosher deli, Katz’s, too, is a place larger than life. Giant salamis hang along the walls, and chefs work on a pastrami sandwich production line at the counter while customers make appreciative noises (albeit quieter than Meg Ryan’s) between mouthfuls. Take the F train from Second Avenue to West Fourth Street.

One of the most visited on-screen locations in New York owes its popularity to a TV series that became a movie series. Carrie Bradshaw’s brownstone apartment at 66 Perry St., as featured in Sex and the City, often gets swamped with visitors. Residents have consequently erected a sternly worded sign asking fans not to trespass on the steps – and to show their appreciation by donating to a local rescue home for cats and dogs. Take the M train from Ninth Street to Lexington Avenue/53rd Street.

By contrast, you won’t find many people stopping on the noisy stretch of sidewalk on Lexington Avenue between East 51st and East 52nd. Nonetheless, the ventilation grille outside the Le Relais de Venise restaurant (relaisdevenise.com) is holy cinematic ground: this was where Marilyn Monroe’s skirt billowed into the air in The Seven Year Itch (1955). Standing on the grille, you’ll feel gentle gusts from subway trains passing beneath your feet, though this probably won’t be enough to dislodge garments (during filming, a giant fan was used, and Marilyn wore two pairs of underwear to keep warm). Walk three blocks west to Fifth Avenue, and then four blocks north to East 57th Street.

It’s said that production crews had to wait hours on end for a lull in traffic to film the opening scene for Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), when Holly Golightly (Audrey Hepburn) stares wistfully through the

SCOTT RUDIN PRODUCTIONS/STDIOCANAL/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

Among the leafy brownstone streets of Greenwich Village you’ll find Caffè Reggio (coffee from $2.75; caffereggio.com), one of New York’s oldest and most handsome coffeehouses. It first opened its doors in 1927, and has barely changed since, with terra cotta-hued interiors fitted with a huge silver coffee machine that supposedly made the first cappuccinos in America. It appeared in the Coen brothers’ Inside Llewyn Davis (2013) and it was the watering hole of the detective and title character in Shaft (1971).

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Established in 1927, Caffè Reggio (above), in Greenwich Village, appears in the 2013 Coen brothers film, Inside Llewyn Davis.

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Queensboro Bridge over the East River, in a scene from Woody Allen’s 1979 film Manhattan (right), and a modern view of the film site (below).

“Boy, this is really a great city. I don’t care what anybody says. It’s really a knockout, you know?”

shop window. The stretch of 57th Street outside Tiffany & Co. is still noisy with tooting horns and idling engines. If, like Holly, you’re intent on eating your breakfast outside the shop window, make a pit stop at the nearby Eclair Bakery on 53rd Street for arguably the best croissants in Midtown (eclairbakery-nyc.com).

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Woody Allen has made more than a few movies in New York, but his enduring love letter to the city is Manhattan (1979). The bench where Mary Wilkie (Diane Keaton) and Isaac Davis (Woody Allen) watch dawn rising over the East River is set among grand townhouses in tiny Sutton Square. The small problem you’ll notice when you arrive is that

no such bench exists (it was installed for the movie). But looking out across the Queensboro Bridge, it’s easy to sympathize with Allen’s opening lines: “He adored New York City. He idolized it all out of proportion… He thrived on the hustle bustle of the crowds and the traffic… New York was his town, and it always would be.”

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: BRIAN HAMILL/UNITED ARTISTS/ROLLINS-JOFFE/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; GARY LATHAM

–Isaac Davis, portrayed by Woody Allen in Manhattan (right)

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MAKE IT HAPPEN / New York LADY LIBERTY’S DESTRUCTION

FIND YOUR WAY IN NYC

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GETTING AROUND New York City has a comprehensive public transportation system. All the film locations in our story can be reached by nearby subway stations ($2.75 per journey, or $31 for a seven-day pass; mta.info).

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WHERE TO STAY 1 The rooms at Pod 51 are not exactly spacious, but uncluttered decor, a big roof terrace and a central location in the heart of Midtown Manhattan more than make up for it (from about $115; thepodhotel.com).

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MAP KEY 1 Dumbo/Manhattan Bridge 2 St. Patrick’s Old Cathedral 3 Vazac’s Horseshoe Bar 4 Grand Central Terminal 5 Times Square 6 Jackson Hole Burgers 7 Daily News Building

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE Three busy airports serve New York: John F. Kennedy International Airport, 15 miles from Midtown Manhattan in southeastern Queens; Newark Liberty International Airport, 16 miles away in New Jersey; and, 8 miles from Midtown, LaGuardia Airport, smaller than JFK and used mainly for domestic flights. NYC also has two main train stations and a monolithic bus terminal.

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There is no movie location in New York as longsuffering as the Statue of Liberty. Directors have used Lady Liberty’s collapse as shorthand for the destruction of New York, and have come up with ever more creative ways for her to kick the bucket, including being ruined, then buried by sand in Planet of the Apes (1968); destroyed or damaged by aliens or monsters in Ghostbusters II (1989), Independence Day (1996), Godzilla: Final Wars (2004) and Cloverfield (2008); submerged by a tidal wave or the sea in Deep Impact (1998), A.I. Artificial Intelligence (2001) and The Day After Tomorrow (2004); and decapitated in Escape from New York (1981).

8 Flatiron Building 9 Empire State Building 10 Caffé Reggio 11 125 Christopher St. 12 Hook and Ladder 8 13 Katz’s Delicatessen 14 66 Perry Street

15 Le Relais de Venise 16 Tiffany & Co. and Eclair Bakery 17 Sutton Square/ Queensboro Bridge 18 Astor Place 19 Statue of Liberty

2 Archer Hotel The Archer has comfortable rooms perched high above the cacophony of Midtown, with a rooftop cocktail bar commanding sublime views of the Empire State Building (from $199; archerhotel.com). 3 Library Hotel Luxury Bookworms should check in to the Library Hotel, an establishment home to some 6,000 books and a hotel bar that offers a fine line in literary-themed cocktails (from $200; libraryhotel.com).

For more: Lonely Planet’s Guides app and New York City or Pocket New York City guidebooks | National Park Foundation (nationalparks.org) | Find other film locations around the city: scoutingny.com

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The Photographer’s Story

n a c i r e m A er n i D

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“I

shot diners on the East Coast and the West Coast for this project. It was great to realize that the American diner is still alive and well, considering the Starbucks culture that can be found on every corner. I could still see how important these places are as a cornerstone of their communities. The waiters and waitresses are the glue that holds them together. There is great pride in what Andrew Hetherington these people do – and the menus haven’t changed in decades. Shows An award-winning photographer, born like Diners, Drive-ins and Dives on the Food Network have actually in Dublin, Ireland, but now calling NYC brought a lot of interest to these places. Most of the diners I shot have home, Andrew photographs a wide been featured on that show and have a menu item that they are famous range of subjects across the globe. See for, which has caused people to seek them out. more of his work at ahetherington.com. “My method was to get to the diner early in the morning, so I could set up and become part of the furniture for both the front of house people and the customers. People got Blue Benn used to the camera and lights quickly “This is a circa 1945 railcar diner in Bennington, enough, and I could focus on capturing their Vermont. Most of these diners are small, and the railcar usual routines. I like to sit at the counter, so I diners were particularly constraining, with their long can watch the interactions between the staff and narrow design. But the original fixtures and and customers. It’s always fun to watch the features are all still in place, and it really gives a sense line cooks work; the interactions between of what theses places were like 30 or 40 years ago.” them and the waiters are like a ballet.”

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The Photographer’s Story

Bette’s Ocean View “Ironically, this Berkeley, California, diner doesn’t have a water view, but it does serve classic diner fare with a West Coast twist. The regulars line up outside before the doors open at 6:30 a.m. I watched this guy go through his morning routine, order his food, and drink his cappuccino while he read the day’s paper.”

O’Rourke’s Diner “O’Rourke’s is an Irish diner in Middletown, Connecticut, and like all diners, its flattop grill has been seasoned by years and years of what has been cooked on it. The diner suffered a catastrophic fire in 2006, and it’s a testament to how important this place is to the community that they all contributed to rebuilding it after that happened.”

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Dutch Kitchen “This older-style diner in Frackville, Pennsylvania, has a railcar seating area as well as a traditional dining room. It’s well known for its homemade desserts, which are showcased in a glass cabinet. The waitress takes orders behind the counter, and there is a pass-through to the kitchen and the line cooks. It’s one of the few restaurants where you can still buy cereal by the box!”

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The Photographer’s Story

Booths at Dutch Kitchen

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Great Escape C YC L A D E S Get your sea legs ready for an island-hopping trip, starting with ancient and modern side by side in the Greek capital, Athens, before flitting about on ferries to discover hidden coves, experience traditional rural life and fill up on local food, then finally kicking back to watch the world-famous sunsets. BY AMANDA CANNING @AMANDACANNING PHOTOGRAPHS BY ADRIENNE PITTS @HELLOPOE

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Marvel at wonders of the ancient world in Athens before hitting the capital’s cutting-edge bar scene.

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Get on your bike in Mykonos as you leave the town behind to explore the quiet paths that reveal rural life.

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Climb aboard a boat for a trip around Paros and take your pick of spectacular beaches.

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Take a short hop to Naxos to watch traditional crafts being made and feast on local produce among the olive groves.

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On Santorini, explore the gorgeous hilltop villages of Oia and Fira, but make sure you’re finished in time to enjoy the famous sunsets.

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Athens Start your journey in the cradle of Western civilization, where you’ll encounter ancient history as well as surprising innovations in the restaurant and bar scene. With the grace and poise of a ballet move, one clogged foot rises steadily into the air. The leg to which the foot is attached extends with equal measure until it is entirely straight. There it hovers, dead still, until the limb is brought down with sudden force, the stamp of foot on pavement like the shot from a pistol. It is one small part of a ceremony that takes place every hour outside the parliament building: the changing of the guard. The soldiers, in beige kilts, red berets and pom-pommed clogs, remain resolutely focused, even as sweat rolls down their faces and spectators dive in for photos. The city of Athens seems made for drama. In the alleyways of nearby Plaka, the city’s oldest section, waiters invite diners into their restaurants with promises of plate-smashing, while men noisily slap down backgammon counters in smoky bars. Down streets paved with marble and shaded by orange trees, crumbling columns and arches rear up like ancient ghosts. They are but a warm-up act to the main attraction, though: the 2,500-year-old Acropolis that presides over Athens from a hill right at its heart. Built as home of the gods, with a temple devoted to Athena at its core, the complex owes its survival in part to its ability to change purpose over the millennia, from temple to mosque, church to harem. Now, it serves both as a Greek history lesson brought to life, with archaeologists and tourists alike wondering at the ingenuity of its makers, and a romantic backdrop for the couples who gather to watch the sunset from the olive groves of nearby Filopappou Hill. There are different gods to worship these days. At Brettos, Villy Saraidari, resplendent as Athena in an electric blue dress, pours a clear, anise-flavored liquid

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ESSENTIALS

STAY // Sweet Home is a small, friendly hotel on a side street a short walk from the restaurants of Plaka, the Acropolis and parliament. Rooms are quiet and comfortable and have parquet floors; those on the top floor have beamed wooden ceilings. Some have Acropolis views across the rooftops (if you stretch) and small balconies (from $134; thesweethomehotel.com). DO // Admission to the Acropolis from $13, or take a guided tour for $31 (athens walkingtours.gr). EAT & DRINK // Funky Gourmet tasting menu $160 (funkygourmet.com). Ouzo at Brettos from $4.30 (brettosplaka.com). Bubble cocktail at MoMix $4.30 (momixbar.com).

from an oak barrel and places the glass on the marble counter. A photo of Mr. Brettos, who founded the ouzo distillery in 1909, hangs in the room that has changed little since. Saraidari fell in love with the place as a customer, and now indulges her passion for its many types of ouzo from behind the bar. “We have people come in who are 70 years old and they start crying. They remember being here as kids,” she says. “It still has the same spirit, the same history.” In Gazarte, home to the old city gasworks and a rapidly changing nightlife, bartenders are somewhat less respectful of tradition. “People said when we started that this was a terrible idea, that the Greeks only like what they already know,” says owner Thodoris Koutsovoulos, sitting under a fig tree in the backyard of MoMix, an operation that is part theater, part laboratory, part bar. Cocktails are presented in solid, wobbly bubbles that explode in the mouth, in chewy, deceptively alcoholic lozenges, or in glasses that swirl with dry ice. The place is full every night. Around the corner from MoMix, there is no grand announcement for Funky Gourmet, just a nondescript door and a doorbell. Head chef Georgianna Hiliadaki, her blonde hair in wild curls, makes sure all the drama comes out of the kitchen. “Diners come because they want an experience,” she says as she places a lamb’s tongue in a gold-painted sheep’s skull, part of a dish called Silence of the Lamb that appears on the flamboyant tasting menu. “It’s not just going out for dinner,” she says. “It is like going to the opera.” The approach has earned Funky Gourmet two Michelin stars and endless bookings of its nine tables. Here, it seems, the Athenian love of performance has reached its zenith.

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Clockwise from far left: Bubble cocktails at inventive bar MoMix // a view over Athens from the Acropolis // Funky Gourmet chef and owner Georgianna Hiliadaki // changing of the guard at the parliament building

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Clockwise from top left: 17th-century windmills above Hora, the old town of Mykonos // cheese balls and honey served at Vioma // Horseback riding is a popular activity in Mykonos. // A fisherman waits for a catch with Little Venice beyond. // Opposite: Hora’s white houses with bright woodwork

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From Athens, catch a taxi to Piraeus port for the three-hour fast ferry to Mykonos (from $63; seajets.gr).

Mykonos

There’s more to the island than its party-happy capital. Saddle up for a secret bike ride. There’s a deceptive calm to Hora, the old-town of Mykonos, at midday. A few people drift between the boutiques, staring at Gucci watches or Chanel sunglasses through the windows, or loll on restaurant terraces, awaiting iced coffees and plates of steamed mussels. The twisting flagstone alleys that tumble down to the seafront, built to block the wind or to baffle the pirates who swept through the Cyclades hundreds of years ago, are largely quiet. Above town, the seven windmills featured on so many of the island’s postcards lie dormant. There is little hint of the role they played in creating vast wealth for their owners; the grain they milled was once so valuable it was known as white gold. Come late afternoon, all changes. Troops of people emerge from B&Bs housed in the tightly packed white buildings of Hora, the blue of their painted shutters matching the intensity of the sky above. They squeeze down streets now merry with the sound of chatter and music, heading to the harbor for cocktails and the catch of the day. Little Venice, a wall of merchant’s houses hanging over the sea, is the sunset location of choice; a forest of selfie sticks is hoisted endlessly in front of it as day edges into night. From among the tourist hubbub, local culture peeks out. Candles are still lit in the town’s many churches each morning. Men still gather at the shore with a fishing rod each evening. Nikoleta the weaver, dressed all in black, stills earns her living at an ancient loom in her seafront workshop. “Of the next generation, only my daughter knows how to use this old thing,” she says, a cheerful smile on her lined face. “She wants to keep the tradition going. But I say, you cannot eat tradition!”

ESSENTIALS

STAY // Grace Mykonos is the perfect hotel for the island, featuring cool rooms with sea views, inventive food served at the poolside restaurant, cheerful staff and a quiet location away from the business of Hora town. Luxuries include pillow menus and bespoke toiletries (from $280; gracehotels.com). DO // Take a two-hour cycle trip ($38; yummypedals.gr) from Vioma (mykonos vioma.gr), or go exploring on horseback ($86; mykonoshorse.com).

Dimitra Asimomyti might well disagree. An islander by birth, she left to make a new life, returning to her parents’ vineyard when the recession hit. “A friend tried to persuade me to take over my father’s business but I was never interested,” she says, pulling on a bike helmet. “The wine is not my passion. It is his. And then I thought of my idea. I was so excited I didn’t sleep that night.” Her idea was to marry her love of cycling with her desire to show people a part of Mykonos far from the circus of Hora. She leads tours from the family farm, Vioma, taking guests down quiet country lanes banked by stone walls, behind which fig trees grow and goats bleat. With the light turning gold, cyclists are rewarded with a picnic of homemade buns and cups of wine on a remote beach. Sharing the sunset here is a group of three horseback riders from a neighboring farm. “I am not a monuments expert,” Asimomyti says back at Vioma, serving a feast of cured ham, tomatoes piled high on rusks – crisp, twice-baked bread – plus just-made cheese and honey fresh from the beehive. “It is local life I love to share.” Dad Nikos and mom Helena potter about the terrace, pouring more wine and loading plates with small almond and lemon cakes. Panagia Tourliani, the monastery that owns the land here, is just visible, perched high on a hill beyond the rows of low-lying vines. Standing guard, too, and forming a chain to the sea, are the crumbling watchtowers that once protected the fields and farmhouses from raiders. “I like to go to Hora now and then,” says Asimomyti, as a light breeze ripples down the valley. “But here it’s a completely different side to the island. Here, you see our heritage is very dear to us.” Summer 2017

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Hop on a high-speed Hellenic Seaways ferry for the 45-minute trip from Mykonos to Paros ($39; hellenicseaways.gr).

Paros

Take to the seas on a traditional fishing boat, then return to land for seafood feasts, local wine and a beach to suit every taste. “Paros is the ark that saved the Malvasia grape from extinction,” says Savvas Moraitis, standing in the stone cellar of his winery in Naoussa. “We were the only place not affected by the phylloxera [vineyard blight] that wiped it out in the rest of Europe.” He pours a glass of Malvasia and takes a sip. “See, it is clean and crisp, just like the sea.” The ocean is never far from the thoughts of Parians, the inhabitants of Paros, even when talking about wine. The sea breeze, limited freshwater and loose, sandy soil create a terroir unique to the islands, producing wines different from any in Europe. In pride of place in the Moraitis winery sits a model of Seveasti, the boat that once transported their produce all over the Aegean, setting sail from a nearby beach. “The sea is why anyone on this island is here,” explains Moraitis. Down in the harbor, a short walk away, white-haired men sit chatting on benches from dawn to dusk. They rise occasionally to check their fishing lines. Costa, a retired engineer from Athens, spends six months of the year on the island. “This is my work now,” he says, gesturing at the water. “I fish, I eat fish, I watch the fishing boats come in.” He is not the only one drawn to such simple preoccupations. As the shadows start to lengthen across the cobbled quayside, the tables fill at restaurants that sit barely three feet from the water’s edge. Waiters hang octopus from the doorways to advertise their wares, and sardines, lobsters and red mullets are put on ice at high tables, to the immense frustration of local cats. Fishing boats come and go, puttering out from the harbor, past the fort that once protected the town from pirate attacks. In unlikely homage to those days, the

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ESSENTIALS

STAY // Lilly Residence goes for a nautical theme, with white walls, flagstone floors and fish-related decor. The rooms overlook the lovely pool and terrace, and it’s a short walk to both a quiet swimming beach and the harbor. No children allowed (from $125; lillyresidence.gr). DO // A 3½ -hour trip on the Rofos costs about $30 per person (rofos-paros.gr); private boat rentals from $130 per day (paros adventures.com). Winetasting at Moraitis from $5 (moraitiswines.gr).

familiar skull and crossbones of the Jolly Roger flag flies over several of the town’s bars, their interiors liberally decorated with fishing nets and glass floats. Customers flit in and out, seeking a position closest to the water, trailing snorkels and beach bags. Most spend the day dispersed around the island, on the hunt for a beach that’s just right. Everyone on Paros has a different definition of what that means. There are sandy beaches accessed by clifftop paths lined with heather and buzzing with cicadas; beaches where children search through rock pools, keeping their catches in plastic buckets; beaches whose rocks have magic exfoliating powers when rubbed on the skin; beaches where teenagers play keepie-uppie with a soccer ball before heading out to windsurf; beaches with parasols and pedal boats; and beaches where there is nothing but pebbles, gently lapping waves and the wide sky above. Olivier Kindinis maintains, however, that the very best beaches can be reached only by boat. The owner of activity company Paros Adventures, he has teamed up with local skipper Ilias and his converted fishing boat, Rofos, in a mission to reveal the Parian coastline’s hidden coves and islands to summer visitors. The Rofos eases over the crystal-clear waters of the Blue Lagoon, its sandy bottom clearly visible 45 feet down. The boat passes Nikolas Church, built on an islet in honor of Paros’s fishermen. Drawing into a sheltered bay ringed by tall cliffs, Ilias cuts the engine. “If you come to Paros and don’t go out on a boat, you miss the whole point of it,” Kindinis says. “You miss all this.” He gestures at the luminous water, sun bouncing off the surface like diamonds. The only spectators are the swifts circling above. It’s impossible to resist diving in.

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Clockwise from top left: Church on the coast of Paros // exploring the clear waters off Paros from the Rofos // hanging the catch of the day in Naoussa

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Clockwise from top left: Nissaki Beach Hotel in Naxos // paints at gallery Fish & Olive // jewelry designer Alexander Reichardt, with dog Nemo // Opposite: zucchini fritters served at the farmhouse of Yannis and Maria

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Blue Star Ferries will take you from Paros over to Naxos, 45 minutes away (from $11; bluestarferries.gr).

Naxos

Head inland to the mountains to discover a unique and fiercely protected culture of craftsmanship and local produce. The largest of the Cyclades, Naxos looks so different from its neighbors that it’s hard to believe it’s part of the same island chain. From the shore, plains covered in golden fronds of wheat rise up through foothills covered in cedars and thick, gnarly olive trees 500 years old. Tractors chug along narrow roads lined with cactuses, granite mountains rearing up around them and casting dark shadows over the valley. Far above, a solitary eagle floats on the wind. Naxos has always been a place apart. Its inhabitants look inward and to each other for survival with little reliance on the sea and all that lies beyond. Its most important towns lie in the interior, not on the coast. Halki, deep in the mountains, was its capital until the 1950s, when administrative life shifted to the port town of Naxos. Unlike in Naoussa on Paros or Hora on Mykonos, most old-town buildings here are not white with blue shutters. The streets are wide. Houses are painted in pastel shades and built in the neoclassical style, with imposing windows. Halki fell into disrepair in the second half of the 20th century, but it is once again the cultural heart of the island. Katharina Bolesch and Alexander Reichardt are credited with its revival. A married couple, they have lived in the town since 1989, producing ceramics, jewelry, lithographs and marble pieces in their workshop. A constant stream of visitors wanders in and out of their gallery, Fish & Olive. “All roads lead to Halki,” says Bolesch, delicately placing a pottery olive on the side of a vase, while Reichardt paints the outline of a fish on a bowl. “No one lived on the coast. We

ESSENTIALS

STAY // Nissaki Beach Hotel in Naxos Town has large, comfortable rooms arranged around a courtyard pool. There’s a seaside deck for sunset drinks (from about $190; nissaki-beach.com). DO // Katharina and Alexander’s art is on display at Fish & Olive (fish-olive -creations.com). For guided visits to Apiranthos, see naxostours.net. EAT & DRINK // Other great food experiences include Halki’s Vallindras distillery, which makes local liqueur kitron; olive press and museum Eggares (olivemuseum.com); and cooking classes at Platia restaurant (from $50; platianaxos.com).

always had what we needed right here. Life was always in the center of the island.” In Apiranthos, a few miles along the road, a women’s cooperative has been making the same point since the 1980s. In a room near the top of the village, up to 20 women work embroidering shepherd’s shirts, and weaving tablecloths and blankets ready for sale. Naxos is the most fertile of the Cyclades, its autonomy assured by the bounty of its soil. Even in Halki, apricot, pear and lemon trees grow in every back garden, the fat fruit lying where it falls. It’s no surprise that the protector of the island is Dionysos, god of wine, revelry and fertility. “People say there was so much wine here, it ran in the rivers,” says guide Eleni Kontopidi. “Perhaps the abundance makes people create. You take everything you have and turn it into art.” The abundance also makes Naxians preternaturally compelled to eat and to feed. In a farmhouse kitchen in the valley below Halki, Kontopidi introduces goat farmers Yannis, who’s stirring a fresh batch of cheese, and wife Maria, who brings out plate after plate of food: zucchini fritters; spanakopita pastries spilling out spinach; salads of tomato, cucumber and fennel; and baklava with jelly – all of it homemade with their own produce. They worry they’ve not provided enough. “We take hospitality very seriously on Naxos,” explains Kontopidi, trying the goat cheese. “Living in the mountains, you are cut off from the world, and it makes you feel more solidarity with each other. We don’t spend a lot of money on things, but we always share what we have.” Summer 2017

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It’s time for the final ferry trip, from Naxos to Fira on Santorini, two hours away (from $23; bluestarferries.gr).

Santorini Bring your trip to an end on an island famed for its sunsets, and unearth a surprise or two before you leave. Life on Santorini stops in its tracks an hour or so before dusk. Beaches are abandoned, guided tours are ditched, kids are bundled away from hotel pools, drives are hurriedly completed. It is an unspoken rule that the sole focus of any activity from this point until nightfall is finding an elevated and comfortable spot from which to watch the sun sink slowly and gloriously into the Aegean. Most head to Oia, a town at the northern end of Santorini, the view from which may have been photographed more than any other in Greece. Fira offers a slightly less frenetic perch for sunset musings. Like Oia, its white buildings and domed churches spill down the cliffside, seeming to cling to the rock in defiance of all known laws of gravity and engineering. As the sky starts to fade to violet, through various shades of gold, amber and mauve, couples find a quiet step on which to share a bottle of wine, the conversation from the wedding parties in full swing on restaurant terraces dies down, and the speedboats and yachts on the water spin to face west. All eyes fix on the sunset, and stay fixed until the first stars and a sliver of silver moon appear in the darkening sky. Then cocktails are ordered, the chatter resumes and the important business of vacation carousing begins again in earnest. Santorini’s high position on the list of the world’s best sunset locations owes much to geology: the island, and the islets off-shore, are all that remain of a volcano

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ESSENTIALS

STAY // Sun Rocks has 18 beautiful, all-white rooms with terraces spilling down the cliff, with nice touches such as coffee machines and CD players. There are top views from all, and from the pool and restaurant (from $208; sunrocks.gr). DO // Admission to the Tomato Industrial Museum is about $5 (santorini artsfactory.gr).

that erupted more than 3,500 years ago. Its towns, the essential foreground in any memorable Santorini sunset shot, are built into the caldera’s edge. The ash from the explosion has been instrumental in Santorini’s modernday survival too, creating fertile plains which sustained the island’s most unlikely hero: the tomato. At a factory in the southern plains, Antonis Valvis cranks up a steel engine the size of a combine harvester. Belts whir, cogs grind and wheels clank. The factory, closed in 1981, once shipped canned tomatoes and tomato paste all over the region, supplying the Greek army for more than a decade. As the old machines spring to life, a contented smile spreads over Valvis’s face. “When the factory was built after WWII, it was very harsh times for Santorini,” says the former chief engineer and now occasional guide. “It provided a lot of opportunity. It’s how the villages of the island survived.” It has now been resurrected as a museum, with all its Heath-Robinson-style machinery intact, art exhibitions housed in the old warehouses and concerts staged in the grounds. No one leaves without trying the sweet, freshly pressed juice of a Santorini tomato, served in a plastic cup – red from the blood of each farmer and with a scent like the sun, according to Valvis. “To the people of Santorini, this factory is a temple,” he says, knocking back his juice. “So come here first, and then go and see the sunset.”

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Sunset over the whitewashed houses and iconic domes of Fira // Opposite: View from the restaurant at Sun Rocks hotel in Firostefani

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MAKE IT HAPPEN / Cyclades

WHEN TO GO If you value your solitude, avoid visiting the islands in August. Mykonos and Santorini, in particular, are incredibly crowded during the summer, and accommodation prices rise. April, May, September and October are good times to visit: temperatures are still pleasant, ferries operate (though on a reduced schedule outside peak season), and most accommodations and restaurants remain open. Winter can be a good time to get a feel for the islands’ local character once most tourists have gone, but bear in mind that ferry schedules are skeletal and many services will have closed.

ON THE ROAD DRINK Ouzo, the famous Greek liqueur, should be served chilled and sipped slowly. Each distillery has its own carefully guarded recipe for this grape- and aniseed-based spirit.

FLIGHT TIME

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PHILADELPHIA

LOS ANGELES

ATHENS

ATHENS

Multiple carriers, including American Airlines, British Airways and Lufthansa, fly from U.S. cities to Athens International Airport. To save on airfare, consider a cheap flight to a European hub such as London and then an onward ticket with easyJet (flight time from London is 3½ hours); from Santorini, fly back to London with British Airways or easyJet. If you’d prefer to

HOURS

HOURS

bypass Athens, you can fly to Mykonos. It is easy to rent a car on each island: Mykonos (mykonos-rent-a-car.gr), Paros (acropolisparos.com), Naxos (europcar.com) and Santorini (kosmos-carrental .com). Because the islands tend to have narrow roads, a small car can be a good choice. Expect to pay around $30 per day. Athens is an eminently walkable city, with most of

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the main sights contained within a small central area. Book a taxi through your hotel to take you to Piraeus port (around $20). A number of different ferry operators sail between the islands, and these should be booked in advance. Look at ferries.gr for up-to-date timetables.

SAY “Endaxi.” From the ancient Greek for “everything is in order,” the word is used for OK. It’s often shortened to “daxi.” BUY Owl-themed items are popular. The symbol of the goddess Athena, and therefore of Athens, the sacred creature can be seen in various representations all over the capital, including the parliament building. SEE You’ll find tin-plate tamata votives, rectangular metal plaques with embossed images, left in churches big and small. Each is a pictorial representation of a wish or expression of thanks devoted to a particular icon. Common tamata include eyes, limbs, a spouse and a child. WATCH Shirley Valentine, a poignant 1989 comedy/drama about a British housewife who falls in love with a Greek tavern owner while on vacation, was shot on Mykonos and nominated for two Oscars.

For more: Lonely Planet’s Greek Islands (individual chapters available at shop.lonelyplanet.com) | Greek tourism board (visitgreece.gr)

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MAP: ALEX VERHILLE

FROM

EAT Local products abound. Every island has its own variation on a national dish, and produces much of the food you’ll eat, from honey to wine, cured ham to goat cheese.

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The ultimate guide to the world’s best breweries Discover the exciting world of craft beer with our ultimate guide to the best breweries, taprooms and bars in over 30 countries across five continents. With insights about each brewery, local activities and places of interest, plus the best hangover cures and more, it’s the perfect companion on a round-the-world beer adventure.

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when you order at shop.lonelyplanet.com with the discount code: LPBEER Discount code is valid from May 1 to September 30 2017

“Whether beer beginner or beer geek, who better than Lonely Planet to inspire us on where best to fill one’s glass?” Julia Hertz, Publisher, CraftBeer.com


Mini Guides 6 tear-out themed guides to your favorite destinations

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MINI GUIDE

MINI GUIDE

MINI GUIDE

Bars in New York

Eating in New Orleans

Long Weekend in Tampa

MINI GUIDE

MINI GUIDE

MINI GUIDE

Budget Iceland

Nature in Malaysia

Creative Glasgow

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The rooftop bar at the Marriott Vacation Club Pulse hotel looks onto the Empire State Building.

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Dive Bars SUNNY’S BAR

Way out in Brooklyn’s Red Hook neighborhood, this super-inviting longshoreman bar – the sign simply reads “bar” – is straight out of On the Waterfront. Every Saturday night at 10 it hosts a foot-stomping bluegrass, folk and country music jam (sunnysredhook.com; 253 Conover St., between Beard and Reed Streets; 4pm–2am Tue through Fri, 11am–4am Sat, 11am–midnight Sun; cash only). MALACHY’S

MINI GUIDE

Bars in New York

In the city where the cocktail was born, mixed drinks are stirred with gravitas, and craft breweries and bars take their artisan suds seriously, but you can still find plenty of old-school dive bars.

WEATHER UP

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THE DEAD RABBIT

During the day, hit the sawdustsprinkled Taproom in the Financial District for historic punches and pop-inns (lightly hopped flavored ales). Come evening, scurry upstairs to the Parlor for a choice of more than 70 seasonal cocktails, such as the Bunny Boiler – Tanqueray No. Ten gin, cachaça, manuka flowers, falernum and lemon (deadrabbitnyc.com; 30 Water St.; 11am–4am daily; cocktails $16).

SPRING LOUNGE

This neon rebel in Manhattan’s Nolita neighborhood has never let anything get in the way of a good time. In Prohibition days it peddled buckets of beer. In the ’60s it was a gambling den. These days, it’s best known for its stuffed sharks and come-one-and-all late-night revelry. Fueling the fun are cheap drinks and free grub: hot dogs on Wednesdays, bagels on Sundays (thespringlounge .com; 48 Spring St.; open daily until 4am; draft beer from $5).

For Craft Beer

For Cocktails This is the place barkeeps go for a well-crafted drink in Tribeca. Try a Green Point – rye, sweet vermouth, yellow chartreuse, angostura bitters and orange bitters – or comfort yourself with some seriously fine snacks, including spectacular oysters slapped with gin-martini granita (weatherupnyc.com; 159 Duane St.; 5pm–1am Mon–Wed, 5pm–2am Thu–Sat, 5pm–10pm Sun; cocktails $15).

Giving new meaning to the word dive, this Irish pub on Manhattan’s Upper West Side has a long bar, walls covered in posters and black-and-white photographs, and an affordable menu with daily specials. The bartender has a sense of humor and there’s always a lineup of regulars who know each other by name. Daily happy hour is from noon to 7pm (malachysnyc .com; 103 W. 72nd St.; 12pm–4am; draft beer $5).

Graffiti outside Spring Lounge, known to locals as “the shark bar”

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Shaking things up at popular cocktail bar The Dead Rabbit PENROSE

Since 2012, the Penrose has brought a dose of style to Manhattan’s Upper East Side, with exposed-brick walls, vintage mirrors and friendly bartenders setting the stage for a fine evening out. Fill up on good pub grub before imbibing concoctions such as the Dirty Pickle Martini: Tito’s vodka, McClure’s Spicy Pickle Brine and a pickle (penrosebar.com; 1590 Second Ave.; open daily until 4am; cocktails from $12).

This low-key bar in Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighborhood looks like it was pieced together from a rummage sale. The ceilings are red, there are vintage maps on the walls, and the furniture consists of tattered armchairs. But the beer selection is staggering, with unique, high-quality crafts on tap and cask (spuyten duyvilnyc.com; 359 Metropolitan Ave.; from 5pm Mon–Fri, from 12pm Sat–Sun; beer from $5). ASTORIA BIER & CHEESE

At this bar-shop hybrid in Queens’s Astoria neighborhood, you can take your pick from 10 seasonal drafts, or choose between canned and bottled options, yours to take home or swill on-site. Fromage fiend Mike Fisher keeps the cheese selection inspired and surprising (astoriabier andcheese.com; 3414 Broadway and 35-11 Ditmars Blvd.; 12pm– 11pm Mon–Thu, to 12am Fri–Sat, and 10pm Sun; beer from $2.25).

Brooklyn’s Spuyten Duyvil specializes in rare Belgian beers. PROLETARIAT

The cognoscenti of NYC’s beer world pack this tiny, 10-stool bar just west of Tompkins Square Park in East Village. Promising “rare, new and unusual beers,” Proletariat delivers the goods with a changing lineup of brews you won’t find elsewhere, such as drafts from artisanal brewer Hitachino Nest of Japan and Mahr’s Bräu in Germany (proletariatny.com; 102 St. Marks Place; 5pm–2am; 8-oz. draft beer from $5).

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MINI GUIDE Bars in New York

Drinking

Essentials

The Know-How

WHERE TO STAY

A short stroll to Prospect Park in Brooklyn, Serenity at Home is a charming, four-bedroom guesthouse in a lovely prewar terraced house (serenityah .com; 57 Rutland Road; from $75, three-night minimum). Marriott Vacation Club Pulse NYC (formerly The Strand), between Penn Station and Grand Central Terminal, is a stone’s throw

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A room at the NoMad Hotel, with a freestanding claw-foot bathtub

from Macy’s and other Midtown icons. The 177 rooms have plush bedding and luxurious bathrooms. Topping it all off is the all-season rooftop bar overlooking the Empire State Building (marriott.com; 33 W. 37 St.; from $180). Crowned by a copper turret and featuring interiors with a New York-meets-Paris aesthetic, the NoMad Hotel is a Beaux-Arts dream and one of the city’s hottest addresses; the in-house restaurant/ bar is especially popular (thenomad hotel.com; 1170 Broadway; from about $295 for one king-size bed).

Beer brewing once thrived in New York City. By 1870, Brooklyn had 48 breweries in Williamsburg, Bushwick and Greenpoint, areas packed with German immigrants who had brewing know-how. • With Prohibition taking effect in 1920, Brooklyn was one of the country’s leading beer peddlers, and was famous for kids carrying growlers (beer jugs). By the end of Prohibition in 1933, most breweries had shut shop. While the industry rose again during WWII, local flavor gave in to big-gun Midwestern brands. • Today, Brooklyn is again a catchword for a decent brew, as craft breweries put integrity back on tap. Brooklyn Brewery has seasonal offerings, such as Black Chocolate Stout (available Oct–Mar; brooklyn brewery.com). Also check out Sixpoint Brewery (sixpoint.com) and Kelso of Brooklyn (kelsobeer.com).

FOR MORE INFORMATION

New York City is included in Lonely Planet’s Guides app, full of insider knowledge, detailed maps and trustworthy tips. Our New York City ($21.99) is a detailed guidebook; chapters are available to download at shop.lonelyplanet.com ($4.95). Reimagine the glamour and grit of Prohibition-era New York City in Baz Luhrmann’s 2013 film adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s novel The Great Gatsby.

COMPILED BY NATALIE MILLMAN, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM REGIS ST LOUIS AND CRISTIAN BONETTO. PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHAEL WANTZPHOTOGRAPHY, BENOIT LINERO

BOROUGH BREWS

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Three major airports serve NYC: JFK, 15 miles from Midtown Manhattan in Queens; La Guardia, mostly for domestic flights, also in Queens and about 8 miles from Midtown; and Newark Liberty in New Jersey, about 14 miles from Midtown. You can explore Manhattan on foot, but the subway is a cheap and reliable way to get around (from $2.75; mta.info), while hailing a cab is a New York rite of passage (initial charge $2.50).

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The French Quarter is the historic heart of New Orleans.

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Creole & Cajun UPPERLINE

This restaurant’s owner, JoAnn Clevenger, loves her city – its art, architecture and cuisine – and Upperline’s menu reflects these passions. Enjoy classics prepared with a modern sensibility, such as the spicy Cajun stew duck étouffée with corn bread and pepper jelly (upperline.com; 1413 Upperline St; 5:30pm–9:30pm Wed–Sun; main courses from about $21; threecourse dinners from $40). ELIZABETH’S

MINI GUIDE

Eating in New Orleans

Tastes from Europe, Africa and the Americas blend into the Creole cuisine of The Crescent City, joined by the down-home Cajun cooking of the surrounding marshlands.

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CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY

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COOP’S PLACE

On weekend mornings the line is out the door at this café and bakery in the picturesque Creole quarter of Faubourg Marigny. The breakfast menu includes Southern staples such as local catfish, boudin sausage, and fried oysters and grits, while the bakery whips up sweet creations (look at the king cake) and fresh bagels (nolacakes.com; 2440 Chartres St.; 7am–3pm Wed–Mon; breakfast dishes from $7).

CLANCY’S

This white-tablecloth restaurant embraces style, the good life and Creole cuisine with a chattering joie de vivre and top-notch service. Its specialties include fried oysters and brie, veal with crabmeat and béarnaise sauce, and lobster and mushroom risotto. Try to reserve ahead, and dress up a little (clancysneworleans.com; 6100 Annunciation St.; lunch Thu–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat; lunch entrees from $17, dinner entrees from $27).

Pub Food

Budget Coop’s is an authentic Cajun dive in the French Quarter with an air of chaos and a reputation for surly staff, but it’s worth it for the food: seafood gumbo is a specialty, as is the rabbit jambalaya. Then there’s chicken with shrimp and tasso (smoked ham) in cream sauce – there’s no such thing as “too heavy” here. You have to be 21 or over to enter (coopsplace.net; 1109 Decatur St.; 11am–late; entrees from $8).

Elizabeth’s is deceptively divey, but it provides a quintessential New Orleans experience: smiling sass, weird artistic edges and overindulgence. Cajun-style brunch and breakfast are top draws, with dishes such as French toast and sinful praline bacon or a breakfast po’boy sandwich (elizabeths restaurantnola.com; 601 Gallier St.; 8am–2:30pm daily, 6pm–10pm Mon–Sat; breakfast po’boy $8; brunch entrees from $10).

Elizabeth’s is a friendly spot in the Bywater neighborhood.

The Cake Café & Bakery’s king cakes, in Mardi Gras colors WILLIE MAE’S SCOTCH HOUSE

The fried chicken here has been dubbed some of the world’s best by the revered James Beard Foundation. Willie Mae’s is a simple, atmospheric diner where the kids can get PB&J sandwiches while the adults munch on soul food. This place is all about the chicken, coated in the perfect blend of spices; try it with a classic side of butter beans (williemaesnola.com; 2401 Saint Ann St.; 10am–5pm Mon– Sat; fried chicken and a side dish $11).

The focus at this rustic yet elegant gastropub in the French Quarter is Southern haute cuisine and excellent cocktails. Its chefs are passionate about using local ingredients. Rich, refined and delicious dishes such as duck confit served on a bed of black-eyed peas are indicative of the gastronomic experience (sylvainnola.com; 625 Chartres St.; 10:30am–2:30pm Fri– Sun, dinner daily; entrees from $14). MIMI’S IN THE MARIGNY

Mimi’s is a late-night institution that draws neighborhood crowds for Spanish tapas and beer. It’s attractively disheveled with a house-party vibe and dim, brown lighting like a fantasy in sepia. The food is surprisingly gourmet, with dishes such as crab gazpacho, and mushroom and goat cheese empanadas (mimismarigny.com; 2601 Royal St.; kitchen open 6pm–2am; tapas from $5).

Evening outside on the patio at Nola Brewing’s tap room NOLA BREWING

It’s a bit of a meat-fest in Nola Brewing’s Uptown taproom, where the award-winning McClure’s BBQ has set up shop, serving pulled pork, burgers, brisket and ribs galore to soak up the two dozen craft beers on tap. Every Tuesday there’s a pop-up restaurant serving more refined small plates (nola brewing.com; 3001 Tchoupitoulas St.; 11am–11pm daily; barbecue sandwiches from $9.50).

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MINI GUIDE Eating

Essentials

The Know-How WHAT TO EAT

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport is in the suburb of Kenner, about 13 miles west of the city. You’ll likely connect here through Atlanta, Houston, Dallas, Chicago or Charlotte. The Airport Shuttle links to downtown hotels (single $24; airportshuttleneworleans .com) while a taxi costs $33 for one or two passengers. Single trips on buses or streetcars are $1.25 (exact change needed), plus 25 cents for transfers (norta.com). A Jazzy Pass offers unlimited rides (one day, $3) and can be bought online or at local Walgreens pharmacies. WHERE TO STAY

There’s an Alice in Wonderland feel to La Belle Esplanade, a B&B in the historic Tremé district. Furnishings in the five themed suites vary, but plush chairs and claw-foot tubs are characteristic features (labelleesplanade.com; 2216 Esplanade Ave.; from $189).

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Southern-style breakfasts are a highlight at La Belle Esplanade.

The French Quarter location and Creole ambience of Soniat House are hard to beat. Some rooms open onto a courtyard with fountain and ferns, while winding stairways lead to elegant, antiquefilled quarters (soniathouse.com; 1133 Chartres St.; from $245). Audubon Cottages is a luxury collection of suites set in restored French Quarter houses. Wroughtiron loungers frame a saltwater pool, and the exposed-brick rooms exude a period New Orleans charm (auduboncottages.com; 509 Dauphine St.; from about $295).

Beignets Flash-fried puffy squares of dough, dusted liberally with powdered sugar. Boudin Spicy Cajun sausage made with pork and rice. Po’boy An overstuffed sandwich served on local French bread and dripping with roast beef, fried shrimp and/or fried oysters. Snowball Shaved ice in a cup with flavored syrup.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Lonely Planet’s New Orleans ($19.99) is a comprehensive guide to the city, while Pocket New Orleans ($13.99) is ideal for short breaks. New Orleans also is featured in Lonely Planet’s Guides app, available at iTunes. Find more restaurant reviews at bestofneworleans.com. Written in part after the devastation of Hurricane Katrina in 2005, Richard Campanella’s collection of essays and articles titled Bienville’s Dilemma shows how the geography, history and culture of New Orleans helped shape its present ($25; University of Louisiana).

COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM AMY C BALFOUR AND ADAM KARLIN. PHOTOGRAPHS: JORDAN BANKS/4CORNERS, JERRY MORAN NATIVE ORLEANIAN LLC, LAURI PATTERSON/GETTY

Eating in New Orleans

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Day One ULELE

Inside a historic red-brick pump house by the Hillsborough River, Ulele is a cavernous modern space starring original art from the owner’s collection. The menu is inspired by the ingredients of the bay’s native peoples and Spanish explorers. Enjoy creative cocktails and craft beer made on-site (ulele.com; 1810 N. Highland Ave.; 11am–10pm Sun–Thu, to 11pm Fri–Sat; lunch entrees from $12). HYDE PARK

MINI GUIDE

Long Weekend in Tampa Along Florida’s Gulf Coast, this bayside city is flourishing thanks to its New Orleans-esque heritage district, Cuban culture and inventive dining scene. Experience some of the city’s unexpected highlights on a three-day weekend.

OXFORD EXCHANGE

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TAMPA RIVERWALK

Floridians have taken to Tampa’s new Riverwalk with gusto. There are 2.5 miles of waterside track carving a path through downtown Tampa via the Tampa Bay History Center (tampabayhistorycenter.org) and the Tampa Museum of Art (tampa museum.org). If you enjoy cycling, join the Coast Bike Share program and unlock a bike from one of downtown’s many docking stations (coastbikeshare.com; $8 per hour).

CIRO’S SPEAKEASY

This bayside neighborhood of 1920s Arts-and-Cafts-style bungalows gives a fascinating insight into Tampa’s community before the downtown glass-andsteel towers took over. Stop by French-inspired Piquant for a takeaway coffee (piquanthyde park.com; 1633 W. Snow Ave.; 8am–8pm Mon–Wed and Sun, to 9pm Thu–Sat). Finish up at glittering Bayshore Boulevard, the world’s longest continuous sidewalk.

Call ahead for the daily password to this dimly lit Prohibition-style bar tucked inside an apartment block. Private curtained booths and retro furniture are eerily authentic, recalling the era when real speakeasies thrived in 1920s Tampa. There’s a supper club too, but cocktails are the thing here: Ciro’s tie-touting staff can make whatever you fancy (cirostampa .com; 2109 Bayshore Blvd; 5pm– late; happy hour cocktails $7).

Day Three

Day Two The beautifully chic Oxford Exchange building will have you flitting between its interior-design store and wood-paneled coffee house. The light-filled atrium café/ restaurant serves inventive egg dishes and pumpkin pancake breakfasts between tinkling fountains (oxfordexchange.com; 420 W. Kennedy Blvd.; 7:30am– 5pm Mon–Fri, from 9am Sat–Sun; breakfast items from $6).

Carpaccio of octopus served with a spicy piri piri sauce at Ulele

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Engage your core while piloting a paddleboard through Tampa. PADDLEBOARDING

Trying to maintain balance while bobbing around the bay and keeping a watchful eye out for stingrays and dolphins makes stand-up paddleboarding fun exercise. Urban Kai runs private lessons from Tampa’s marina. In two hours you’ll learn how to stay upright and glide out on a tranquil ecotour of the bay; morning or sunset are best (urbankai.com; 700 S. Florida Ave.; from $35).

Cuban immigrants landed in droves on Tampa Bay’s 19th-century shores to toil in Ybor City, once the cigarmaking capital of the world. Stop by this old-fashioned Cuban bakery, established in 1915, where locals pop in for guava turnovers and Cuban sandwiches (lasegunda bakery.com; 2512 N. 15th St.; 6:30am–5pm Mon–Fri, 7am–3pm Sat–Sun; guava turnover $1.75; sandwiches from $7.50). YBOR CITY MUSEUM STATE PARK

Located in a 1923 building, Ybor City’s heritage museum documents the rise and fall of Ybor from the 1880s to the 1940s. Outside, the streets are crammed with relics from its industrial golden age, including old cigar factory and workers’ clubs items and a memorial to Cuban revolutionary José Martí (ybormuseum.org; 1818 E. 9th Ave.; 9am–5pm Wed–Sun; $4).

The Ybor City State Museum was first built as a bakery in 1923. COLUMBIA RESTAURANT

Florida’s oldest restaurant fills an entire block in Ybor City. Though it has expanded from its bar- andsandwich-shop 1905 origins, there’s still plenty of character in its colonnaded dining hall and Spanish–Cuban menu. Bow-tied waiters make sangria at tables (columbiarestaurant.com; 2025 E. 7th Ave.; 11am–10pm Mon–Thu, to 11pm Fri–Sat, 11:30am–9pm Sun; sandwiches from $10).

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MINI GUIDE Activities

Essentials

WHERE TO STAY

As charismatic as an aging rock star, Gram’s Place Hostel is a small, welcoming spot for travelers who prefer personality over perfect linens. There are communal kitchens, a hot tub and Saturday night live music jams (grams-inn -tampa.com; 3109 N. Ola Ave; from about $68).

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Drinking

Eating

Sleeping

The Know-How TAMPA’S BOOZE REVOLUTION

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Tampa International Airport, 8 miles west of downtown off Hwy 589, is the region’s third busiest hub. HART bus 30 picks up and drops off at the eastern end of the airport’s red baggage claim area every 30 minutes and takes about 25 minutes to get into town ($2, exact change required; gohart.org). HART also operates buses around the city, plus an inexpensive In-Towner Trolley bus around the city center and old-fashioned electric streetcars ($2.50) between downtown Tampa and Ybor City.

Sights

Take a dip at the Epicurean after a day in the Hyde Park district.

The Barrymore Hotel, a former Hilton, has been given a new independent lease on life with a slick refurb. It’s downtown, on the east bank of the Hillsborough River, by the Riverwalk (barrymorehotel.com; 11 W. Fortune St.; from about $125). The fashionable Epicurean is Tampa’s top hotel. It’s designed for food lovers, with its “Epicurean Theater” featuring an array of classes, and an excellent restaurant, wine shop and popular rooftop bar. Guests are waved in with a glass of wine (epicureanhotel.com; 1207 S. Howard Ave.; from about $145).

Coppertail One of Tampa’s best new-breed craft breweries, Coppertail runs regular site tours and packs the crowds into its cavernous beer hall (coppertailbrewing.com). Cigar City Cider & Mead Join a tour of this casual brewhouse/bar in Ybor City. Its rotating lineup of ciders stars flavors such as lychee, pineapple and cactus (cigarcitycider.com). Fodder & Shine This industrial hangar-style bar and restaurant in Seminole Heights serves craft cocktails and celebrates the food and drink of the South (fodderandshine.com). Florida Cane Distillery Located in Ybor City, this tiny small-batch distillery offers tours and tastings (cane-vodka.com).

FOR MORE INFORMATION

The “Tampa Bay & Southwest Florida” chapter of Lonely Planet’s Florida guidebook ($24.99) can be downloaded ($4.95) at shop .lonelyplanet.com; Discover Florida ($21.99) is a full-color guide to the region. Tampa Bay’s exploding craft-beer scene is comprehensively mapped on The Brewery Bay (thebrewerybay.com). Read The Infiltrator by Robert Mazur ($16.99; Little Brown and Company); this true-crime novel about a major drug-cartel operation is set around Tampa and was made into a 2016 film starring Bryan Cranston.

COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM PAULA HARDY. PHOTOGRAPHS: FERRANTRAITE/PHOTOTROLLEY.COM/GETTY, ROB-HARRIS PRODUCTIONS/ULELE, SUSANNE KREMER/4CORNERS, REINHARD SCHMID/4CORNERS, SPARK BRANDS

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Natural Wonders THINGVELLIR

Gullfoss is one of the stars of Iceland’s Golden Circle route.

GULLFOSS

MINI GUIDE

Budget Iceland

Lava fields, steaming geothermal pools, Viking ruins and valleys gushing with waterfalls: Iceland may have a reputation as a pricey destination but many of its most spectacular highlights are free.

HIKING IN SNÆFELLSNESJÖKULL NATIONAL PARK

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BIRD WATCHING IN FLÓI NATURE RESERVE

This reserve in southern Iceland is an important estuary and marshland for wetland birds, who flock here for the May to July nesting season. There’s a bird hide situated on a 1½-mile circular hiking trail through the marshes, where it’s possible to spot species such as the red-throated diver. To reach the reserve, head north from Eyrarbakki village, past Sólvangur farm (fuglavernd.is; free).

Iceland’s most famous waterfall, Gullfoss (Golden Falls) is a spectacular double cascade. It drops 105 feet, kicking up tiered walls of spray before thundering away down a narrow ravine. On sunny days, the mist creates shimmering rainbows, and it’s also magical in winter when the falls glitter with ice. There’s a lookout over the falls, and a set of steps continues down to the water’s edge (Highway 35; free).

Geysers are rare; Iceland has Europe’s only hot-water geysers. GEYSIR

This is the hot-water spout after which all other geysers are named (Its name means “gusher” in Old Norse). It once threw water more than 260 feet into the air. It is less active today, but the hissing geothermal area is home to other geysers, notably Strokkur, which erupts every 10 minutes or so, up to 98 feet high. There’s an exhibition about geysers, volcanoes and earthquakes across the road (geysircenter.com; free).

Food & Drink

Activities Encompassing much of the western tip of Snæfellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland, this park is home to ice caps, lava fields and coastal walks. Its glacier is famed as the setting for Jules Verne’s 1864 science fiction novel Journey to the Center of the Earth. In summer, rangers offer free guided tours of the park (snaefellsjokull.is; free).

Iceland’s first national park and its most important historic site, the World Heritage-listed Thingvellir was where the Vikings established the Althing in AD 930, the world’s oldest parliament. Only the stone foundations of ancient encampments remain, but the setting is superb: an immense, fissured rift valley of rivers and waterfalls, just 25 miles east of Reykjavík (thingvellir.is; free).

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The view across Tjörnin lake in the center of Reykjavík REYKJAVÍK WALKING TOURS

Reykjavík hosts two free walking tours from June to August. University students lead Walking Tour Reykjavík outings, delving into culture and history on 1½-hour walks (freewalkingtour.is; noon and 2pm). Reykjavík City Library’s fun walks celebrate aspects of Iceland’s important literary heritage (bokmenntaborgin.is; 3pm Thu or tour at your convenience with the free app Reykjavík Culture Walks).

Sægreifinn (Sea Baron), a homey, green harborside shack in Reykjavík, ladles out the capital’s most famous humarsúpa (lobster soup). Diners can also choose from a fridge full of fresh fish skewers to be grilled on the spot, including locally caught halibut, lemon sole, salmon, cod and skate (saegreifinn.is; Geirsgata 8; 11:30am–11pm mid-May–Aug, to 10pm Sep–mid-May; main courses from $10). KAFFI-SEL

On the Golden Circle route, the village of Flúðir is known for its geothermal greenhouses. Just outside town off the Hvitárholt road is Kaffi-Sel, a café offering gourmet pizzas featuring locally sourced ingredients. They also have great burgers. Grab a bite and head outside to one of the picnic tables (kaffisel.is; Efra Sel 845; 11am– 9:30pm April–Sep, variable hours Oct–Mar; pizzas from $16.50).

Fish skewers and lobster soup at Sægreifinn (Sea Baron) MICRO BAR

Alcohol is expensive in Iceland, so look for happy hours at bars around Reykjavík like the one at this boutique brew bar, in a new, improved central location, where beers cost about $5 between 5pm and 7pm. It’s a low-key spot popular with beer aficionados, offering 10 local drafts on tap and the best selection of Icelandic craft beers in the capital (facebook.com /MicroBarIceland; Vesturgata 2; 4pm–12:30am).

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MINI GUIDE Activities

Essentials

WHERE TO STAY

Fossatún is near Borgarnes in west Iceland, next to a beautiful waterfall, and has a guesthouse, a main hotel and wooden camping pods (fossatun.is; Route 50; guesthouse from $75; hotel double from $125; camping from $55).

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The Know-How ICELAND’S HOT-POTS

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Iceland is a five- to seven-hour flight from North American cities. Keflavík International Airport, Iceland’s main airport, is 30 miles southwest of Reykjavík. It takes about 45 minutes to get from Keflavík into town with Flybus (from $22 one-way; re.is). Car rental prices compare favorably to internal flights, especially if you’re not traveling alone (from $60 per day; reykjavikcars.com). From mid-May to mid-September there are regular buses to popular destinations. Look for the free “Public Transport in Iceland” map in tourist offices and bus terminals (straeto.is).

Sights

Fossatún provides camping pods as well as more traditional rooms.

On a quiet, central street in the capital, Butterfly Guesthouse’s flamboyant housefront mural is unmissable. Neat, simply furnished rooms, a guest kitchen and friendly owners make you feel right at home (butterfly.is; Ránargata 8a; from $215, from $175 with shared bath). Set on a working dairy farm, Efstidalur II offers wonderfully welcoming digs in adorable semi-detached cottages, along with a hot tub, good meals and amazing ice cream straight from the dairy (efstidalur.is; 801 Bláskógabyggð; from $120).

Iceland’s steaming geothermal pools are called “hot-pots” by locals. Many charge an entry fee; the following off-the-beaten-track alternatives are free. Do as locals do, and use any showers provided before entering. Reykjadalur This warm river is in a valley near the southwestern town of Hveragerði. Pick up a map at the tourist office and stick to the 2-mile marked path through sulfurous plains. Pollurinn Just outside the town of Tálknafjörður in the Westfjords region, these cement-lined natural hot-pots are toasty at 115°F and have a fjord overlook. Seljavallalaug To reach this peaceful pool filled by a hot spring, turn off the southern Ring Road at Route 242, following signs to Seljavellir; park by the farm, and walk up the beautiful river valley for about 15 minutes.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Lonely Planet’s Iceland ($27.99) is a comprehensive guide to the country; Pocket Reykjavík ($13.99) covers the capital and nearby Golden Circle attractions. Reykjavík is included in Lonely Planet’s Guides app, available at iTunes. The new Reykjavík Culture Walks free app maps four walks, introducing readers to Icelandic writers and books from Viking saga literature to the present day. For a taste of Icelandic saga literature, pick up Egil’s Saga ($16; Penguin Classics), an 800-year-old classic warrior tale.

COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ALEXIS AVERBUCK AND CAROLYN BAIN. PHOTOGRAPHS: IAN GETHINGS/GETTY IMAGES, SIMON HARRIS/ROBERT HARDING, CHRIS HEPBURN/GETTY, MATTHEW MICAH WRIGHT/GETTY, ©LOLITA MONTANA

Budget Iceland

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Around Kuala Lumpur KL FOREST ECO PARK

This 23-acre thick pocket of primary rainforest in the capital has a lofty canopy walkway. The oldest protected jungle in Malaysia, the park is commonly known as Bukit Nanas (Pineapple Hill). It’s threaded with short trails up from either Jalan Ampang or Jalan Raja Chulan. Pick up a map from the Forest Information Center on Jalan Raja Chulan (7am–6pm; free admission). KL BIRD PARK

MINI GUIDE

Nature in Malaysia Often overshadowed by Borneo, mainland Malaysia is crammed with fun for nature lovers, from primeval jungle and orchid-trailing paths to underwater sanctuaries.

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This park blankets 1,670 square miles of the country in impenetrable jungle. Ancient trees with enormous buttressed roots dwarf luminescent fungi, orchids, ferns and the giant rafflesia flower. Arrive early for birdspotting and other wildlife encounters along the 40-minute canopy walk. Register at the information counter first (8am–10pm Sun–Thu, 8am– noon and 3pm–10pm Fri; 25 cents).

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ECO CAMERON

GUNUNG STRONG STATE PARK

TAMAN NEGARA NATIONAL PARK

BATU CAVES

One of Malaysia’s holiest Hindu sites (dress appropriately), these giant limestone caves lie 8 miles north of KL. Their temples have drawn pilgrims for more than 120 years. Temple Cave is free, but Ramayana Cave ($1) is the scenic stand-out. The Dark Cave can be toured with the Malaysian Nature Society ($9). The Hindu festival of Thaipusam in January/February is fascinating (cave hours vary; train from KL Sentral to Batu Caves 50 cents).

Tours

Into the Wild Crowned by the 4,665-foot-high same-name mountain, this park in Kelantan’s interior is accessible via the long-distance Jungle Railway and offers excellent hiking and swimming. The star attractions are the park’s waterfalls, a 20-minute climb past the main resort. Longer excursions lead to the top of the falls and above clouds to the mountain’s summit.

Some 3,000 birds and 200 species of (mostly) Asian birds are the prize at this 52-acre aviary. In the first two sections, birds fly freely beneath an enormous canopy. The third section features native hornbills, while the fourth section offers the less-edifying spectacle of caged species. Check online for feeding times; bird shows run at 12:30pm and 3:30pm (klbirdpark .com; 920 Jalan Cenderawasih; 9am–6pm; $11).

A rhinoceros hornbill finds a sturdy perch at KL Bird Park.

The bridge by Pantai Kerachut beach in Penang National Park PENANG NEGARA NATIONAL PARK

At 5,683 acres, this is Malaysia’s smallest national park. Expect interesting jungle trails and quiet beaches. Many trails can be linked as a half-day coastal hike via Teluk Tukun, Tanjung Aling and Monkey Beach. The walk ends at isolated Muka Head, with a 19th-century lighthouse and a graveyard. Register at the park’s reception counter (8am–5pm; free admission).

In the Cameron Highlands (Malaysia’s largest hill-station area), eucalyptus freshens the breeze and tea plantations roll into the distance. Eco Cameron offers specialist nature tours (hikes, orchid walks, bird-watching, insectspotting) and exclusive access to a protected Mossy Forest trail (ecocameron.com; 72-A Persiaran Camellia 4, Tanah Rata; tours from $12.50). JUNGLEWALLA

Since setting up this nature tour company in 1994, Irshad Mobarak has become something of a celebrity naturalist. He’s based in Langkawi but also offers trips to Penang. There are bird-watching excursions, jungle walks, mangrove- and islandhopping trips, and photography trails, all focused on wildlifewatching. Multiday itineraries are available (junglewalla.com; Lot 1392, Jalan Tanjung Rhu; tours from $38).

Dawn breaks over the Cameron Highlands’ tea plantations. UNDERWATER PERHENTIANS

Malaysia’s east-coast Perhentian Islands offer thick jungle and blinding-white beaches, but they are best known for their coral reefs and shallow, crystal-clear waters. With shipwrecks, abundant fish life and rock formations, this is one of Malaysia’s top spots for underwater tours or scuba diving courses. Try Quiver Dive Team on Perhentian Kecil (quiver-perhentian .com; dives $20).

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Essentials

WHERE TO STAY

Perhentian Island Resort is a luxurious option overlooking a beautiful half-moon bay. There’s a huddle of comfortable bungalows, as well as a first-class restaurant (perhentianislandresort.net; Pulau Perhentian Besar; from $90).

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The Know-How RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Kuala Lumpur is a major transportation hub, with direct flights connecting Kuala Lumpur International Airport with cities worldwide. Flights from the U.S. take a minimum of about 20 hours. The airport is 45 miles south of the city; the 28-minute KLIA Ekspres is the quickest line into the city center (kliaekspres.com; about $12.50 one-way). Bus travel in Malaysia is economical and comfortable, with many operators, though reckless driving is not uncommon. Roads in Malaysia are some of the best in Asia and fuel is inexpensive, but avoid driving in big cities.

Tours

• Tread lightly and buy locally,

Southeast Asian style in the midst of the city at Villa Samadhi

It’s hard to believe you’re in the heart of Kuala Lumpur at the gorgeous Villa Samadhi. Rooms feature black polished concrete, bamboo and reclaimed timber. There’s an idyllic pool, plus a rooftop bar (villasamadhi.com.my; 8 Pesiaran Madge, off Jalan Madge; from $160). Lakehouse’s English country manor vibe is the Cameron Highlands’ most authentic, with a British-themed restaurant and 19 sumptuous rooms (lakehouse -cameron.com; 30th Mile Ringlet Bertam Valley; from $160).

avoiding (and reporting) instances where products, or parts of products, made from endangered species are for sale. In Peninsular Malaysia there’s a 24-hour Wildlife Crime Hotline (019-356-4194). • Hire local trekking guides and support ecotourism initiatives. You’ll be putting cash in local pockets and casting a vote for the economic (as opposed to purely ecological) value of sustainability and conservation. • Sign up to be a volunteer forest monitor, using Google Earth technology to assess forest cover and report irregularities, by visiting Transparency International Malaysia’s Forest Watch (timalaysia -forestwatch.org.my). • Support local campaigns; check out organizations such as WWF– Malaysia (wwf.org.my) and the Malaysian Nature Society (mns.my).

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Lonely Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei ($27.99) has in-depth coverage of the region and its natural highlights. Malaysia’s jungles take center stage in F. Spencer Chapman’s The Jungle is Neutral, which follows a British guerrilla unit during the Japanese WWII occupation (from $10 at amazon.com; Marshall Cavendish). Educate yourself on Malaysia’s environmental challenges, such as deforestation, online with the Ecotourism & Conservation Society Malaysia (ecomy.org).

COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM SIMON RICHMOND, AUSTIN BUSH AND JOSHUA SAMUEL BROWN. PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEXANDERXXI/GETTY, BLACKCATIMAGING/GETTY, FAZON1/GETTY, ANAN KAEWKHAMMUL/ALAMY, RICHARD TAYLOR/4CORNERS

Nature in Malaysia

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Art & Design GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART

Although damaged by fire in 2014, architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s greatest building still fulfills its original function and remains the city of Glasgow’s most astounding architectural showpiece. Visits are by 45-minute guided tour; the same folks also run Glasgow walking tours (gsa .ac.uk; 167 Renfrew St.; visitors center 10am–4:30pm; tours from about $9).

The Life Gallery at the Kelvingrove

KELVINGROVE ART GALLERY & MUSEUM

MINI GUIDE

Creative Glasgow

Disarmingly blending sophistication and earthiness, Scotland’s biggest city has evolved into an intriguing metropolis, offering a treasure trove of art.

CITIZENS THEATRE

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KING TUT’S WAH WAH HUT

Glasgow is the king of Scotland’s live music scene. Year after year, touring musicians and travelers alike name Glasgow one of their favorite cities in the world to enjoy live music. One of the city’s premier music pubs is King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut, a 300-capacity grassroots venue hosting bands every night of the week. It also has a bar and a kitchen (kingtuts.co.uk; 272a Saint Vincent St.; tickets from $15).

GALLERY OF MODERN ART

Scotland’s most popular contemporary art gallery houses modern international works in a graceful neoclassical building in the heart of the city center. The ornate original interior contrasts with the daring, inventive art on display. The statue of the Duke of Wellington is usually cheekily crowned with a traffic cone (glasgowlife.org.uk; Royal Exchange Square; 10am– 5pm Mon–Wed and Sat, from 11am Fri and Sun, to 8pm Thu; free).

In a magnificent stone building, the Kelvingrove has an excellent room of Scottish art, a room of fine French Impressionist works, and quality Renaissance paintings. Salvador Dalí’s Christ of Saint John of the Cross is also here (glasgowlife.org.uk; Argyle Street; 10am–5pm Mon–Thu and Sat, from 11am Fri and Sun; free). The nearby Hunterian art gallery holds more Scottish works (gla.ac.uk/ hunterian).

Creative Dining

Performance Orchestral rock, serious theater, musical dramas: the Citizens Theatre is one of Scotland’s top performance venues. The theater is firmly entrenched in Glasgow life and engaged in education and community work. It’s well worth trying to catch a gig here, or book an entertaining guided backstage tour through the Victorian theater space (citz.co .uk; 119 Gorbals St.; tours $12).

Charles Rennie Mackintosh chairs at the Glasgow School of Art

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STRAVAIGIN

Richard Brinsley Sheridan’s The Rivals performed at the Citizens Theatre SHARMANKA KINETIC THEATRE

This extraordinary mechanical theater is the brainchild of Russian sculptor/mechanic Eduard Bersudsky. Large, wondrous figures, created from bits of scrap and elaborate carvings, perform humorous and tragic stories to haunting music (sharmanka.com; 103 Trongate; 45-minute shows 3pm Wed–Sun plus 4:15pm Sat, 70- minute shows 7pm Thu and Sun; shows from $7).

Stravaigin is a serious foodie’s delight, with a menu constantly pushing the boundaries of originality. The contemporary basement dining space has booth seating and laid-back waitstaff. At entry level there’s a buzzing two-level bar. Scottish classics such as haggis take their place alongside Asianinfluenced dishes (stravaigin.co.uk; 28 Gibson St.; 11am–11pm; main courses from $12). SARAMAGO CAFÉ BAR

In the tall atrium of the Centre for Contemporary Arts, Saramago does a great line in eclectic vegan fusion food, combining flavors from around the globe. The upstairs bar has a deck and packs out inside with a friendly crowd enjoying DJ sets and quality tap beers; or try Sunday brunch (facebook.com/saramago cafebar; 350 Sauchiehall St.; food noon–10pm Sun–Wed, to 11:30pm Thu–Sat; entrees from $11).

Artichoke, roasted pepper and pea paella at Saramago Café Bar ÒRAN MÓR BRASSERIE

This temple to Scottish dining and drinking is set in an old church. Giving new meaning to the word conversion, the brasserie pumps out high-quality bar meals in a dark, Mackintoshinspired space as well as in the pub area. Come for the “A Play, a Pie and a Pint” lunchtime theater deal (oran-mor.co.uk; corner Great Western and Byres Roads; 5pm–9pm Tue–Wed, noon–10pm Thu–Sat, noon–8pm Sun; entrees from $10).

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MINI GUIDE Entertainment

Essentials

WHERE TO STAY

Opposite Kelvingrove Park, Alamo Guesthouse feels miles from Glasgow’s hustle, but several top museums and restaurants are close by. The decor mixes antique furnishings and contemporary design (alamoguesthouse.com; 46 Gray St.; from $85).

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GETTING THERE & AROUND

There are nonstop flights from the U.S. to Glasgow International Airport, though it may be cheaper to get a connecting flight from a European or Middle Eastern hub. Buses run every 10 to 15 minutes from the airport to the main Buchanan Street station via Central and Queen Street stations (one-way about $9). Glasgow Central Station is the largest of the two train stations. Frequent buses around central Glasgow cost $1.75 (exact change required; firstgroup.com); the subway also serves the center well (spt.co.uk; single $2, one-day unlimited travel $5).

Sights

Garden-view Room 4 at Alamo Guesthouse

A modern surprise hidden beside Glasgow Central Station, Grasshoppers Hotel is one of Glasgow’s homier accommodations choices. Its 30 penthouse rooms are compact but well-appointed (grasshoppersglasgow.com; 87 Union St.; from $98). In a gorgeous Georgian terrace, Blythswood Square Hotel offers plenty of inner-city luxury and soft-toned style. It has a seductive spa, an excellent restaurant and a handsome cocktail bar (townhouse company.com/blythswoodsquare; 11 Blythswood Square; from $150).

Born in 1868, Charles Rennie Mackintosh studied at the Glasgow School of Art. His progressive architecture and design had a profound, lasting influence on the city. Mackintosh Church The only one of Mackintosh’s churches to be built (crmsociety.com). Mackintosh House A startling reconstruction of the first home Mackintosh bought with his wife, noted designer/artist Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh (gla.ac.uk /hunterian). The Lighthouse Mackintosh’s first building (1893), now home to an interpretation center focusing on the architect’s life (thelighthouse.co.uk). Willow Tearooms Working re-creations of Mackintosh’s 1904 tearoom designs (willowtearooms.co.uk). House for an Art Lover Built in the 1990s from a 1901 design (houseforanartlover.co.uk).

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Lonely Planet’s Scotland ($24.99) includes a Glasgow chapter (ebook download available for $4.95; shop.lonelyplanet.com). There are reams of literature on Glasgow’s most famous creative inspiration, Charles Rennie Mackintosh; for an all-round introduction, Alan Crawford’s illustrated Charles Rennie Mackintosh ($24.95; World of Art Series; Thames & Hudson) is a winner. The List is Glasgow’s invaluable monthly events guide, available at newsstands and bookstores (list.co.uk).

COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ANDY SYMINGTON. PHOTOGRAPHS: MARK DOUET, PHILIP GAME/ALAMY, MCATEER PHOTOGRAPH, GEMMA OVENS, TRAVEL PIX COLLECTION/AWL IMAGES

Creative Glasgow

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Morgan Freeman SU2C Ambassador Executive Producer of the documentary, The C Word

Tonya Peat

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Stand Up To Cancer is a program of the Entertainment Industry Foundation, a 501(c)(3) charitable organization. Please talk to your healthcare provider about appropriate screenings for your age, sex, family history and risk factors; and about clinical trials that may be right for you. Photo by Nigel Parry

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Breakthroughs are the patients participating in clinical trials, the scientists and doctors working together to advance the fight against cancer, and the brave survivors like Tonya who never give up. Let’s be the breakthrough. To learn about appropriate screenings and clinical trials or to help someone with cancer, go to su2c.org/breakthrough. #cancerbreakthrough

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Be the breakthrough.

Cancer Survivor


Travelers | Walking the Talk

In August 2016, Michigan resident Chris Andrews began a trek across the U.S. His goal: to spark a national discussion about the importance of face-to-face conversation and “truly engaging with others.” Although his 3,000-mile journey is over, the 23-year-old says his work has just begun.

letstalkusa.com @letstalkusa

“Over 210 days, I walked across the U.S. – 3,000 miles from Washington, D.C., to LA – to spread a message about the value of face-to-face conversation in a digital age. Traveling at 3 mph, with only a cart full of supplies, allowed me to connect on a deeper level with the communities I walked through. Finding balance in how we use technology is a key step in learning to engage with others, understand them and understand ourselves.”

MILE 640 “When you text, you can send a laughing emoji but you can’t hear that unique sound or if they are laughing. That’s how people are disconnected.”

MILE 647 “Speaking face to face lets people know you are genuine about what you are saying. It helps you learn to speak fluently and not to be shy.”

MILE 1,038 “Something you miss when you talk to people over text is a person’s aura.”

MILE 1,124 “You don't have to worry about me, cuz I never turn this thing on!”

MILE 1,340 “Everybody matters. Some people have no one in the world and a simple smile or open door can turn their day around.”

MILE 2,430 “There is such a pull to be here from the heart and from the spirit . . . to stand with others. This work can’t be done at home or behind a screen.”

Lonely Planet (ISSN 2379-9390) (USPS 18590) Summer 2017, Volume 3, Number 2. Published four times a year (Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter) by Lonely Planet Global, Inc., 230 Franklin Road, Building 2B, Franklin, TN 37064. Periodicals postage paid at Franklin, TN, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Lonely Planet, PO Box 37520, Boone, IA 50037-0520. Subscriber Services, U.S., Canada and other International: Direct all inquiries, address changes, subscription orders, etc. to Lonely Planet, PO Box 37520, Boone, IA 50037-0520. You may also access customer service via the web at lonelyplanet.com/usmagazine/customerservice, via email at lnpcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com or by phone at 800-8299121. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Please allow up to eight weeks for delivery of your first issue. Subscription rates: one year $12 domestic only; in Canada, $20; other International, $35 (Publisher’s suggested price). Single copies $5.99.

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ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHRIS ANDREWS

For more on Chris’s journey:

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Lonely Planet Magazine (US) Summer 2017  

The “Summer in America” issue takes readers on a coast to coast journey, from New York​ all the way to San Francisco​, marking the 50th anni...

Lonely Planet Magazine (US) Summer 2017  

The “Summer in America” issue takes readers on a coast to coast journey, from New York​ all the way to San Francisco​, marking the 50th anni...