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OCTOBER 2013

The Frontier of Beer Craft Brewing in New Mexico

Balloons and Beyond Midday Jaunts in the Que

Mangia at M’Tucci’s Plus New Hot Spots in Santa Fe

SANTA FE | ALBUQUERQUE | TAO S

A Taste Of Life In New Mexico


LAURA SHEPPHERD ATELIER

New fall embroidered tunics, shawls and jackets! starting at just $79!

photosantagto.com

Our 15 year anniversary sale continues! 65 w. marcy street santa fe, nm 87501 505.986.1444 laurasheppherd.com like us on

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OCTOBER 2013

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fallfor lavor

Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.

OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE

HISTORIC NOB HILL

ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS

ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE

505.766.5100

505.254.ZINC(9462)

505.294.WINE(9463)

505.850.2459

www.seasonsabq.com

www.zincabq.com

www.savoyabq.com

www.tasteabq.com

...truly local.


Buzz | 10

by Kellly Koepke

A monthly rundown of what’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not.

The Frontier of Beer | 15 by Gordon Bunker

The quality of craft beers in our region just keeps getting better—and their popularity is skyrocketing. Crack open a cold one and be sure it says, “Made in New Mexico.”

Balloons and Beyond | 20 by Kelly Koepke

Seven local midday jaunts to keep your gang entertained during Balloon Fiesta.

M’Tucci’s Kitchina | 22 by Kate Gerwin

December 21

ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET

Inside:

2pm & 7:30pm

December 22 1pm & 5pm

The Lensic, Santa Fe’s Performing Arts Center

Albuquerque’s westsiders were anxious to keep their newest culinary jewel under wraps, but the secret’s out and everyone is headed to Coors and Montaño for a taste of real Italian.

Life in the Embudo Valley | 26 by Stan Crawford

For nearly four decades, acclaimed author Stan Crawford has lived and farmed in the Embudo Valley. Enjoy this insightful story of village life, and then head to Dixon yourself to check out the town’s annual studio tour the first weekend of November.

Omira | 30 by Kate Gerwin

One door closes, another opens. When Ziggy Rzieg closed the International Market we all won dered what does he have up his sleeve with his ? (A little restaurant magic, that’s what.)

Taos Hum | 33 by Tania Casselle

Ticke t on sa s Octo le ber t 15 h!

Celebrating the spooky side of the month, we head up to Taos to investigate shadows and sightings and stories with ghosts.

Single Malt Scotch | 34 by Phillip de Give

There’s nothing like a wee dram of Scotch on a nippy autumn night, and single malts are the only way to go.

Still Hungry? | 36 by Eve Tolpa

New Mexico’s love of local craft beer extends beyond pint and growler. Wait until you try these tasty recipes from four favorite brewers. Tickets start at $25.

ON OUR COVER:

A Pint of Amber Ale, Marble Brewery Tap Room

Receive up to 40% off regular ticket prices with groups of ten or more.

OCTOBER

2013 ~ Publishers: Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor: Patty Karlovitz Publisher’s Assistant: Mia Rose Carbone Web Editor: Melyssa Holik Art Director: Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Kitty Leaken Prepress: Scott Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Advertising: Santa Fe: Mary Brophy 505.231.3181.

For more information, call 505-983-5591.

TICKETS: 505-988-1234 or online at www.aspensantfeballet.com

Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544. Margret Henkels 505.501.2290. Albuquerque: Ashley Schutte 505.604.2547. Stacey Hernandez 505.681.5842.

Distribution: Southwest Circulation Local Flavor Magazine 223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 E-mail: patty@localflavormagazine.com www.localflavormagazine.com Subscriptions $24 per year. Mail check to above address. © Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.

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CORPORATE SPONSORS 

PREFERRED HOTEL PARTNER 

BUSINESS PARTNER 

Investment Management SEASON PRESENTING SPONSOR

OFFICIAL AIRLINE OF ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET

GOVERNMENT / FOUNDATIONS 

Melville Hankins

MEDIA SPONSORS 

Family Foundation

Partially funded by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers Tax, and made possible in part by the New Mexico Arts, a Division of the Department of Cultural Affairs, and the National Endowment for the Arts.


NOW OPEN Churrasco Brazilian style grill all-you-can-eat meat and gourmet salad bar

Tapas menu also available Tuesday - Sunday Lunch 11am to 2:30pm Dinner 5pm to 9pm 1005 S. St. Francis Drive at Cerrillos between Susan’s Fine Wine & Tiny’s

505-780-5483

Crossroads Center St Francis at Cerrillos Regular Hours Mon-Sat 10am-8pm (505) 984-1582

omiragrill.com •

25 ARTISTS, 18 STUDIOS First 2 weekends in October, Saturday & Sunday, 10am - 5pm Art Auction & Preview Show on the Deck at the Mine Shaft Tavern in Madrid. Friday, Oct. 4th, 7 - 9pm

Live & Silent Art Auction. Music & Cash Bar. MadridCerrillosStudioTour.com

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&

BO TWIN

e y e s

EY E

GRO U P

o p t i c s S A N TA

FE

DR. MARK BOTWIN DR. JONATHAN BOTWIN DR. JEREMY BOTWIN

444 St Michaels Drive

Optometric Physicians 505.954.4442 BotwinEyeGroup.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

OCTOBER 2013

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Full Bloom Boutique 3J Workshop Biya Johnny Was Komarov Comfy Not Your Daughter’s Jeans

Fall merchandise arriving daily! 70 W Marcy Street Santa Fe • 505-988-9648 • Open 7 Days

Celebrate this holiday season and book your holiday party at

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PO S A D A

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R ESO RT & S PA

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 Will Leathergoods  C.C. Filson  Randolph

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Engineering  Kuhl  Brooks  JanSport

Ask about our big holiday event option for small businesses - just $99 per ticket or $900 for a table of ten includes cocktails, dinner, dancing to “Vanilla Pop” and more! To learn more, contact David Stone at davids@lpdsf.com or 505-954-9618 330 E. Palace Avenue, Santa Fe • laposadadesantafe.com

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OCTOBER 2013

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Skip Yowell Collection  Blundstone  Barbour  Oliberte  Tres Cuervos  Red Jacket 235 Don Gaspar #1 Located next to Santa Fe Village 505-992-1233  Open 7 Days

Valspar #10074 Midnight Dreams Valspar #D40-9A Bowl of Berries Black

534C 1807C


Custom Homes, Inc. Since 1977 (505) 920-8445 BobDiJanniCustomHomes.com

2013

Food+Folklore Festival November 8–10

Explore the past and present, the folklore and customs that created a uniquely New Mexican culinary tradition in a series of keynotes, talks, panel discussions, breakout sessions, creative interludes, and — of course — food! Speakers: · Estevan Arellano · Gustavo Arellano · Hakim Bellamy · Tony Bennett · Juan José Bochenski · Paul Bosland, Ph.D. · Thomas C’de Baca · James Campbell Caruso · Nicolasa Chávez · Patricia Crown, Ph.D.

· Susan Curtis and Nicole Curtis Ammerman · Rob DeWalt · Dave DeWitt · Rocky Durham · Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison · Damian Flores · Nasario Garcia, Ph.D. · Judith Hill · Colin Keegan · Joan Logghe

· Deborah Madison · Valerie Martinez · Nacha Mendez · Carmella Padilla · Jeffrey Pilcher, Ph.D. · Maricel Presilla, Ph.D. · Martín Rios · Lois Rudnick, Ph.D. · John Sedlar · Cordelia Thomas Snow · Elizabeth Titus, Ph.D. · Catalina Delgado Trunk · Don Usner

es ic le! v r Se ilab g a in v er ys A t Ca lwa A

Eggs Benedict - Very Tasty

N 420 Catron St

(at Guadalupe) 505-982-8900

S 4056 Cerrillos Rd (at Airport) 505-424-1200

I NYDeliSF.com Open Daily 7am-3pm

We’re Ready for Fall

Tickets: $250 / $200 Museum of New Mexico Foundation Members For tickets call (505) 476-1126 or email Shirley.Lujan @ state.nm.us For up-to-date information visit http://fuzesw.museumofnewmexico.org Presented in conjunction with the exhibition New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Mate y Más, on exhibit at the Museum of International Folk Art through January 5, 2014. Sponsored by Santa Fe School of Cooking, Santa Fe Spirits, Kakawa Chocolate House, La Chiripada Winery, Hilton Santa Fe Historic Plaza, Sage Inn, Santa Fe Culinary Academy, Museum Hill Café, Museum of International Folk Art, International Folk Art Foundation, Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, Museum of New Mexico Foundation.

Chef de Cuisine Evan Doughty & Executive Chef Anthony Smith have concocted a new fall dinner menu to tantalize your taste buds. Globally-Inspired • Locally Sourced • Chef Crafted • The Local Flavors of Santa Fe • Try our Oktoberfest menu available October 20-27, 2013. Dining Reservations • 505.995.4530

On Museum Hill in Santa Fe · (505) 476-1200 · InternationalFolk Art.org

Eldorado Hotel & Spa 309 W. San Francisco Street EldoradoHotel.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

OCTOBER 2013

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b y K E L LY K O E P K E

ALBUQUERQUE A fond adieu to Nick’s Crossroads Café and its sister eatery, Fresh Choices. Both closed last month so that long-time restaurateur Nick Malone could, along with his wife, Asimine, concentrate on caring for his ailing mother. The highvisibility space at the corner of 4th and Central has been a diner forever (at least 30 years) and will be missed. The historic building sits at the crossroads of the pre1937 and post-1937 alignments of Route 66 and is the perfect spot for another enterprising entrepreneur. Bye, and thanks for all the delicious eats, Nick and Asimine. A few openings of note. First, Chocolate Dude Coffee & Candy opened in The Shops at Nob Hill. The dude in question is Kirk Clark, a former manager of Bailey’s on the Beach (R.I.P.), and he’s got help from Sam Moore, also from Bailey’s. Chocolate Dude specializes in espresso drinks, handmade truffles and assorted chocolate candies—not to mention candy apples for the fall and sugar-free confections. It’s all produced onsite, with the fudge hand-mixed and hand-formed on the marble slab right up front—like a treat and a show! Open until 11 p.m., seven days a week, for late night caffeine and confection fixes. And if you’re a student at UNM or CNM, member of the military or Nob Hill employee, ask about your discount. Quit yer kvetching! Nosh, a new Jewishstyle deli, is open at Amherst and Silver. Owner Alisa Turtletaub-Young’s matzoh ball soup is delish—full of chicken, carrot and celery chunks—and the ball (made with club soda) is light and fluffy. As you’d expect, pastrami, corned beef, egg creams, knish and chopped liver are on the menu. And considering that we haven’t had decent deli in ages (R.I.P. Pastrami and Things), Nosh’s hustle and bustle is promising. Call 505.919.8022 for take out, or visit for breakfast or lunch. Santa Fe’s had olive oil and vinegar tasting rooms for a while in the ranks of Santa Fe Olive Oil & Balsamic Company and Oleaceae. Now Albuquerque joins this growing trend with ABQ Olive Oil Company, on Corrales Road near Flying Star. More than 50 tap tastes from owners 10

OCTOBER 2013

Carol and Ralph Campbell feature infused olive oils and flavored balsamic vinegars, gourmet truffle and nut oils for marinades, dressings, toppings or sipping. (Mmmm, blood orange olive oil. abqoliveoilco.com.) I can hear the cheers from the metro’s western half for La Montanita Co-Op’s new Westside location off NM 528 near Lowe’s and Dick’s Sporting Goods. This should make all y’all very happy as you search for local, organic and natural foodstuffs. Opening day is October 16, and there are sure to be special opening day activities, offers and revelry. Now there are six locations of this locally owned, governed and member-supported grocery. Remember, you don’t have to join to shop there, but at only $15 a year, membership is affordable. It also gets you dividends and deals—plus the knowledge that you’re supporting local businesses, farmers and the community. A hail and well met to Kaktus Brewing Company, Bernalillo’s only brewery and pub. A mudslide delayed the opening a few weeks, but this labor of love of property owner John Koller, brewery owner and son Dana Koller and brewmaster Mike Waddy officially opens October 1. Lucky friends and family, however, have enjoyed the five house beers and the menu of buffalo Frito pie, duck and boar sausage for weeks. The presence of a patio and outdoor games area means that children, dogs and horses are welcome, too. Located at 471 South Hill Road (one driveway north of the KOA Campground on the I-25 frontage road), the brewery is open from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sunday through Thursday, and until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. I’m up for a smooth, toasty London porter or a helles, hefeweizen, ESB or pale ale (each made with a water process that matches the profile of the specific beer). Visit kaktusbrewery.com or call 505.379.5072. While you’re out in Bernalillo, check out the new $1.6 million, 8000 squarefoot Cottonwood Pavilion at the Hyatt Regency Tamaya. This gorgeous outdoor space along the bosque is perfect for weddings, company meetings, retreats and social events for you and up to 600 of your nearest and dearest. This amazing resort (have you seen the pool? experienced the spa? dined at the Corn Maiden, brunched at the Santa Ana Café or watched the sunset from the bar?) just keeps getting better and better. Then head to the Santa Ana Star Center in Rio Rancho through October 31 for the Harvest Festival benefiting the Galloping Grace Youth Ranch, a working, sustainable farm/ranch where children are empowered to lead, teach, work and play alongside others. This free festival runs daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and includes hay sculptures,

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Another way to celebrate the fall and harvest season is the Local Food Festival at the Gutierrez-Hubbell House in the South Valley. This annual event takes place on October 13, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., and spotlights the local food and agriculture of our region. The festival is organized by the MRCOG Agriculture Collaborative and Bernalillo County Open Space, as well as a ton of local groups. Connecting the public with local growers, producers and businesses is crucial in sustaining local agriculture, and the gardening/farming workshops, music, tastings and chef demos (not to mention the pie contest) are all excellent ways to do so. Go to mrcog-nm.gov for more. After you do that, check out the new Zacatecas’ Saturday and Sunday brunch menu, served from noon to 3 p.m. both days. Canela French toast (brioche, cajeta caramel sauce, whipped cream and berry compote) and a Gruet mimosa? Yes, please. If tequila’s more your speed, make your reservations for the October 24 Patrón Tequila Dinner, featuring five courses paired with Silver, Reposado, Añejo, Gran Platinum and XO Café tequilas. Follow Zacatecas on Facebook for more details, including the music line-up at brunch.

Photo: Kitty Leaken

the BUZZ

food, music, contests, entertainment, educational demonstrations and, of course, pumpkins—the last of these most notably on October 26, at 3 p.m., when attendees will attempt to break the current world record for the most people simultaneously carving jack-o’-lanterns. The festival supplies the pumpkins and carving tools; you bring your creativity. For more info, visit ggyr.org.

| Mark Kiffin of Zacatecas Has it been a decade? Zinc celebrates its 10th anniversary with a special four-course tasting menu October 21 through 26, incorporating signature dishes and unique wine flights. Smoked trout and potato pancakes, Talus Wind lamb strip loin and cinnamon poached pear bread pudding? OMG. Call 505.254.9462 for reservations. All of us here at Local Flavor extend our congratulations to one of our favorite Nob Hill destinations! One of Albuquerque’s most popular and influential theater groups, Tricklock Company, celebrates a milestone, too. It’s hard to believe it’s been 20 years since a rag-tag group of UNM students put

together a troop of über-creative, insanely talented writers, actors and technical folks to put on show after show after show. Their yearlong fête includes old favorites and new works, a McCune Charitable Foundation–supported ticket price reduction and more. Visit tricklock.com for tickets to the reprise of “Love and Beauty,” a gruesome, Grand Guignol– inspired gore fest co-written by Mark Chavez and Shenoah Allen and directed by Elsa Menéndez. It’s running October 17 through November 2.

| Don Giovanni at the Opera Southwest Duke City group, Opera Southwest, opens its 41st season in October with a new production of Mozart’s “Don Giovanni” from October 20 through 27 at the National Hispanic Cultural Center. Baritone Timothy Mix returns after his triumphant performance as Escamillo in OSW’s recent “Carmen” to join conductor Anthony Barrese, director of production David Bartholomew and scenic designer Carey Wong. Other scheduled products in this season include OSW’s first-ever production of Georges Bizet’s exotic “Les Pêcheurs des Perles,” featuring soprano Shana Blake Hill, and a firsttime collaboration with the New Mexico Symphonic Chorus and the debut of Roger Melone as conductor. Last season was pretty much sold out, so get your tickets now at operasouthwest.org. Books, mystery and Indian Country rule at the benefit for the Albuquerque Public Library Foundation and the Albuquerque/ Bernalillo County Library, October 1. Anne Hillerman will read from (and sign) her new novel, Spider Woman’s Daughter, at the KiMo Theatre. Hillerman, daughter of bestselling mystery writer Tony Hillerman, continues her father’s Navajo detective series with the further adventures of Joe Leaphorn, Jim Chee and Bernadette Manuelito as they track a would-be cop killer, travel to Chaco Canyon on the murderer’s trail and discover intrigue in the world of ancient Native art and artifacts. If you miss that, head to Santa Fe on October 2 for a redux at Inn and Spa at Loretto, with proceeds from the post-reading reception (at the home of Charles and Edwina Milner) benefiting Friends of the Santa Fe


Public Library. Details on both events are at abqlibraryfoundation.org and santafelibrary.org. Film, anyone? How about the 2013 NM Filmmakers Showcase, October 25 through 27 at the Guild Cinema? This annual event features a vast range of creative talent from around New Mexico. There’s a new category this year for webisodes to complement the regular drama, documentary, animation and experimental genres. Meet the filmmakers at an opening night reception at Laru Ni Hati Café. The event is free and open to the public. Visit nmfilm. com/Filmaker_Programs.aspx for details.

SANTA FE Farewell to Babaluu’s Cocina Cubana, on NM Route 14. The fun, tasty cantina has closed for regular service and will be moving to a new location early next year. However, and this is the good news, chef Amaury Torres (aka Babaluu) and wife, Marysue, will continue to have special events, private parties, catering, party foods to-go, pig roasts and theme dinners—but by reservation only. Check the Facebook page and babaluuscocina. com for dates, times and to get on their email list. Now some better news! Whether you’re a burger purist or crave exotic additions, the inaugural Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown showed us that seven inspired chefs could turn a basic patty into a world-class experience. Realburger owner John Chavez took the top critics’ prize, while the People’s Choice award went to Chef Patrick Lambert of Cowgirl BBQ. Great showings were made by Terra at Rancho Encantado, Luminaria, Bert’s Burger Bowl, Agave Lounge at El Dorado Hotel and Spa and Dr. Field Goods Kitchen. Congrats to all the chefs— and especially to those lucky 300 who snapped up tickets for the tastings. Dear? I’m thinking burgers tonight… Even better news for vegetarians, vegans and those of us who appreciate an occasional break from animal protein. A Santa Fe branch will join the two Albuquerque locations of the superb Thai Vegan restaurant. Hip, hip, hoorah for for chef-owner Pat Phomno’s move up the hill to Cerrillos and Second Street. Watch Thai Vegan’s Facebook page for grand opening details. Lincoln Avenue is turning into our favorite new shopping block. In addition to the wonderful second location of C.G. Higgins boutique chocolatier, there’s the trendy little Ojo Optique next to Niman Gallery. The locally owned and operated spectacle boutique offers sun and prescription ready frames from designers like Andy Wolf Eyewear, MOSCOT and other independent brands ... and they are open 7 days a week. (What?!) It’s places like this that

travelers—and us locals in the know— love. Visit ojooptique.com. October is the month to celebrate food, design and culture in Santa Fe. Start with the 4th annual Santa Fe Gourmet Classic, October 5. Dubbed a bike ride with a gastronomic twist (how very Santa Fe), this event promises epicurean delights from Walter Burke Catering. But you must pedal yourself to the rest stops along the 65-mile route to get them! (You mean we’ve got to work for our food? Indeed.) A Southwest lunch at the Bonanza Creek Movie Studio and a post-lunch nibble fuels the second half of your journey, which started with breakfast and a mid-ride snack, and ends with fruit and artisan cheeses. Have no fear, riders, for sag wagons will patrol the routes, and volunteer mechanics will help with repairs, small parts, tires and tubes. Visit santafegourmetclassic. com for info on the October 4 pre-event reception, where you can meet your fellow gourmands. Then, running October 5 through 13, the Madrid and Cerrillos Studio Tour presents 27 artists in 18 studios, the 8th season for this leisurely event. The popular fundraising live art and silent auction at the Engine House Theater, located above the Mine Shaft Tavern in Madrid, kicks off the tour on October 4. All artists in the tour have donated pieces, and there will be music, a cash bar and an opportunity to meet the makers. Studios are open Saturdays and Sundays or by appointment. More at madridcerrillosstudiotour.com.

| Madrid Cerrillos Studio Tour ‘The Warrior’ by Jane Cassidy You’ve got two weekends to experience the inaugural Show House design event in support of the local Dollars 4 Schools efforts to help our public schools, students and teachers. The collaborative interior design event (October 5-6 and 11-12) exhibits the inspiration of fashion design on interior spaces—specifically, the 2013 Designer Showcase House, at 41 Sunflower, designed and built by the legendary Buzz Bainbridge. It’s the perfect background for several local talents to display their skills and show off the fabulous rooms they put together. Samuel Design Group’s Lisa Samuel will transform a bedroom en suite to a home office, taking for her inspiration the clean lines, textures and contrasts

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Celebrate Indian Summer on our Patio Serving Dinner Nightly from 5:30

the BUZZ of Calvin Klein. All proceeds from tickets sales and the Fashion Fusion Party benefit Dollars4Schools. Visit showhousesantafe.com for a complete list of designers and to buy tickets. A benefit for Cooking with Kids on October 13 features a mouth-watering Italian harvest buffet at Osteria d’Assisi. Co-owner/chef Lino Pertusini and executive chef Cristian Pontiggia will have a tent set up, with lots of Cristian’s amazing eats and CWK kids displaying their skills. It should be great fun, a sell-out for sure, a delicious way to celebrate both Italian cuisine and a worthy organization that motivates and empowers children and youth to make healthy food choices. This casual family event is just $25 per person (kids under 10 are free), and tickets can be purchased in advance at Osteria or online at cookingwithkids.net.

the bar @ Happy Hour 5-7, Mon. - Fri.

20% OFF LUNCH SPECIAL with minimum purchase $12 per person (must present this ad)

Lunch Tues. - Sat., 11:30 - 2:30 through September 548 Agua Fria, Santa Fe • 982-8608 • www.ristrarestaurant.com

| Executive Chef Cristian Pontiggia

A l b u q u e r q u e ’s O n l y L i f e C a r e R e t i r e m e n t C o m m u n i t y

P.S. Congratulations to Osteria d’Assisi’s co-owner Pietro Pertusini and his new wife, Cathy, on their recent nuptials. Our best to the happy couple.

| Cathy and Pietro Pertusini

Live Well. “I’m free from home maintenance and worry, allowing me time to enjoy activities. The exercise and lifestyle programs here are so rich, varied and accessible, they help to keep me fit.” — Chuck Scott, La Vida Llena resident

To schedule a personal presentation, call 800.922.1344 or 505.293.4001. 10501 Lagrima de Oro NE Albuquerque, NM 87111 La Vida Llena, a leader for 30 years in New Mexico senior living, is part of Haverland Carter Lifestyle Group.

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OCTOBER 2013

On October 19, the Institute of American Indian Arts throws its doors wide for the annual Open House celebration of indigenous foods from various regions across the country. IAIA revives a tradition dating back to the 1970s when the institution presented Indian Foods Day to bring the city and school together to share traditions and cultural experiences. IAIA staff, students and faculty will prepare various cultural favorites, including chile stews, salmon and various deserts and breads. The celebration will include art demonstrations, games and music, as well as showcase its student and faculty work and IAIA programs. The event is free and open to the public. Visit iaia. edu. From the “odds and ends” file: Fall means cider, so we’re chuffed that Estrella del Norte Vineyard has

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introduced a hard cider to take the chill out of our autumn evenings. And Tesoro’s Treasures Consignment Galleria, a new consignment shop on San Mateo across from Chocolate Maven, opened this summer, offering a delightful selection of clothing, jewelry, housewares and more. It’s a fun place to shop.

TAOS If you aren’t trekking to Balloon Fiesta in Albuquerque, head north to the 27th Annual El Rito Studio Tour, October 5 and 6. Twenty stops, including two on the New Mexico Fiber Arts Trail and one on the New Mexico Potter’s Trail, display the work of over 40 artisans. Visitors to the tour will be delighted by the variety, which spans local village arts and crafts to contemporary artwork. New to the tour this year are painter Jan Bachman; nationally recognized and award-winning photographer, writer and poet Tom Kumpf; Kolleen Martinsen Grenier, a dancer currently expressing herself through a flamenco series of paintings; painters Karen Sexton and Mike Sutto; and michaelm, a guitarist performing at Barbara Campbell’s studio. Northern New Mexico College will host the delightful and unique Mercado, a venue open to all ages and communities. Go to elritostudiotour.org for more. So you didn’t get enough at Albuquerque’s Balloon Fiesta? The Taos Mountain Balloon Rally October 25 through 27 features some 50 balloonists for mass ascensions at dawn, balloon glows in the evening, a parade and a grand ball—all on a smaller, more intimate scale. Get the scoop at taosballoonrally.com. Then, stay for dinner on October 25 at El Meze Restaurant in El Prado. The Mauro Molino Wine Dinner with winemaker Matteo Molino features award-winning Barbera and Barolo wines from Piedmont, paired with an Italian feast from Chef Frederick Muller. At press time, the menu was being finalized, so check elmeze. com for complete details and to make reservations. In the September issue of Local Flavor there were multiple errors made in the photographer’s credits. On page 4 and page 37 the uncredited photo of wine tasting waiters was taken by Kate Russell. On page 6 the uncredited photo of the editor was taken by Gabriella Marks. On page 16 the photo of John Vollertsen was taken by Gaelen Casey, not Gabriella Marks. On page 18 the photo of Steven Lemon was taken by Gaelen Casey, not Kate Russell. The uncredited photo of Eric LaMalle on page 19 was taken by Kate Russell. On page 57 the photo of Mark Kiffin was taken by Gabriella Marks and not Gaelen Casey. Our sincere apologies to the photographers and our readers.


s

Best of Fall The Santa Fe Animal Shelter’s resale store has the finest for the season at unbeatable prices. All proceeds benefit the homeless animals of Northern New Mexico.

Hours: 10-6 TuesdaySaturday 541 W. Cordova Road 780-8975 Santa Fe Animal Shelter Adopt. Volunteer. Love. 983-4309 • sfhumanesociety.org

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Local flavor Yuja Wang_Layout 1 9/25/13 12:13 PM Page 1

SFCA

Seasonal, local, hand crafted food

THE SANTA FE CONCERT ASSOCIATION

presents

Yuja Wang WORLD TOUR

Our new northeast heights location open daily for lunch and dinner!

505/298-0035 www.FarinaAlto.com

Private dining rooms available for your special occasions or let us cater a party at your venue.

Happy Hour: Monday-Friday from 3pm-6pm

505/243-0200 ww .ArtichokeCafe.com www.ArtichokeCafe.com

“Uncanny virtuosity” "The most dazzlingly, uncannily gifted pianist in the concert world today." —San Francisco Chronicle

Works by Chopin, Prokofiev, Kapustin and Stravinsky

OCTOBER 10, 2013 • 7:30PM

505/243-0130 ww www.FarinaPizzeria.com

Lensic Performing Arts Center For more information, go to SANTAFECONCERTS.ORG

Tickets: 505.988.1234

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OCTOBER 2013

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Seasonal selections from local breweries on tap at all 3 locations


THE FRONTIER OF BEER

story by GORDON BUNKER photos by KITTY LEAKEN

L

ong, long ago, there was a voice from above, and it said, “Let there be light.” And the light thing happened, and the voice said, “Cool. Now that we can see what we’re up to, let’s brew some beer.” And there was beer, and it was good. Everyone was happy. There was light and there was beer. What more could you possibly want?

Then some guys came along with a spunky team of horses and a beer wagon and they said, “Hey, we have a marketing opportunity here, but in order to take advantage of it, we need to fill up the wagon—and fill it fast.” So they invented this thing called mass production, and lo and behold, they did fill up the wagon but with an insipid straw-colored liquid that only vaguely resembled beer. Nonetheless, the people loved the horses and all the hoo-ha, and they drank the stuff. Alas, they became less happy, but by then the insipid liquid was the only thing available. Meanwhile, the voice had been keeping an eye on things and was getting pretty disgruntled, so it cleared its throat: “Uh-hum!” And then it said, “Look, you guys, we got to turn this thing around, so let there be craft beer!” And the people were like, “Say what?” But they got it, and after some fiddling around and a few less-than-great brews, there were such beers, and they were good. They were really good. Little by little, they spread across the land, and the insipid straw-colored liquid faded into the sunset, and the people were again, indeed, happy. I thank all the deities for craft brewers. Collectively, they have saved the whole concept of beer and its enjoyment in this country. They’ve given us ales, pilsners, porters, stouts, and lagers, to name a few. Not too surprisingly, by every metric, the craft brewing industry is growing leaps and bounds. According to the Brewers Association, by volume it has grown 13% and 15% in 2011 and 2012, respectively. There are more than 2400 craft breweries operating, and openings of new breweries outnumber closings by almost ten to one. The way things are going, they might even save the planet. In New Mexico we are blessed with some thirty craft brewers, and with their popularity, the beerscape is changing— and much for the better. We have brewers that have adapted and stood the test of time, some newbies, some taking the large-scale approach and some taking the small.

{

Bartender Justin Svetnicka at the Marble Brewery Tap Room

A warm malty aroma greets me as I walk into Santa Fe Brewing Company’s tasting room. It’s a lot like entering a bakery, homey and pleasant. Established in 1988 in a horse barn in Galisteo, it is currently owned by Brian Lock. He’s an amiable character dressed in shorts and a t-shirt, but he’s also a guy on the move, and his space reflects that fact. Windows give view into the brewery. Giant stainless steel tanks tower over the crew. Pipes and hoses go in all directions. It is a beehive of activity. A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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THE FRONTIER OF BEER Brian bought the business in 1996, along with three partners. “Six months in it—we hadn’t even moved from Galisteo—we were approached by Paul Shipman, CEO of Red Hook Brewery, in Seattle, to purchase it from us,” he recounts. The deal didn’t go through, but the interest indicated that they were on to something. They moved the brewery to Santa Fe and put together a 15-barrel “Frankenbrew” system, utilizing stainless steel dairy tanks from Texas and whatever else they could get their hands on. “We had modest growth in the first five to six years, about twelve to fifteen percent a year,” says Brian. From this early cobbled together start, Santa Fe Brewing is now a very sophisticated production facility. In 2010 they got into canning. “In nine months it took off,” Brian says. “By 2011, our IPA in the can was our number one SKU.” Why have his brewery and the industry seen such tremendous growth? “People naturally evolve into wanting more taste, wanting something unique. We’re keeping just ahead of the curve.” The brewery has been located on Fire Place since 2005, and Brian is proud to point out that “we brew our beers from 100% natural well water.” In his view, the quality of the water is the key. “The industry has gradually been building since the mid-nineties,” he continues, “and in the past five years has exploded.” And Brian’s happy about all the new breweries coming on the scene. “It’s good presenting all these beers on the shelf, because they’re all craft beers, and more than ever people are interested in supporting local.” “Craft brewing has introduced people to beer,” says Trent Edwards, owner of Duel Brewing. This statement might be a hint as to what he thinks about mass-produced beer. The new kid on the block, Duel Brewing is a work of art, a canvas in progress. Trent is an artist, philosopher and businessman—roughly in that order. He brings together skills honed from experiences ranging from fine art painter to movie theatre manager. “Having done many things in my life, I wanted to create a place to lift people up,” he explains. “I wondered what would it be like to be surrounded by beer.” Getting the business started was, he says, “a long process, the hardest thing I’ve done.” I inquire what’s in the name. Duel is at once compelling and unsettling. Trent muses on this a moment and then is very direct. “Life, after all, is a bit of a struggle,” he says. “The name’s relevant, and it suited me.” The taproom is a special place with wood paneling in steel structure and inviting colors, antique light fixtures and stained glass. There’s no TV (yeah!), and there is rock and roll. And there are Belgian-style beers. Duel is a bold and very personal statement. Trent says his business model is about “making a lower volume at as high a quality as we can. That’s where we’re going to be at.” On this topic, his enthusiasm brims over. “The beer is good now, and it’s going to be great. I know that. We’re not going to be satisfied with a recipe; we’re going to turn the dials and make it as good as we can.” Between Trent’s obvious passion for what he and his staff are doing and my ignorance of Belgian-style beers, I find myself more than a little curious for a taste. Trent orders up two flights of three of his beers, Duchamp, Dark Ryder and Fiction. It is a complete pleasure as we sit and taste and discuss. One of Duel’s creations completely changes my idea of what a beer can be. I meet Jeff Jinnett, co-founder of Marble Brewery, at their taproom overlooking the Santa Fe Plaza. Sitting at the bar at nine in the morning feels a little odd, but Jeff pours me a first-rate cup of coffee and all is well. Jeff is a restaurateur by trade, and while he oversees the business side of Marble, he’s also a beer guy. “I was hired in 1996 to develop a brewpub concept, which became Blue Corn Brewery,” he says. “Back then, New Mexico was behind the curve in craft brewing. People would come into Blue Corn and order a Corona or a Bud, but over ten years we started to see the culture change; the local pubs were getting busier.” And, indeed, as Jeff pointed out, the culture has changed. “In 2006 we started brewing on the corner of First and Marble in Albuquerque. I decided, ‘Let’s throw a small pub in the corner and see what happens.’ The day we opened the doors, the pub was swamped, and since then it’s really taken off.” According to Jeff,

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{

Tasting Tray: Pilsner, Wildflower Wheat,


the reason is simple: “The public’s taste has gravitated toward higher quality, fuller flavored beers. The first year we made 3000 barrels, the next five, the next eight, ten, eleven … and now we’re like, ‘We can’t make any more.’ So we’re adding tanks outside. Our current capacity is 13,000 barrels a year.” Things at Marble Brewery are full steam ahead. “Our plans for the immediate future are to build a seven thousand square-foot addition to our brewery, mostly to accommodate more fermentation space,” Jeff continues. “Our goal is to get up to 30,000 barrels in five years.” The exponential increases we’re seeing in craft brewing is having an impact on the big brewers, and Jeff brings up an interesting point. “They are losing market share, and that panics them. If they lose half of a percent, that’s millions and millions of dollars. Large breweries are snapping up small ones, and they’re trying to create brands that sound craft-ish. But you have to ask, are they craft or just crafty?” Blue Heron Brewing resides in a snug little casita on the side of Highway 68 in Rinconada, and owner Kristin Hennelly brews in the back room using a three-barrel system. (And, yes, in that picture of her stirring the brew on Blue Heron’s website, that special piece of equipment she’s using is a canoe paddle.) Kristin has roots in the area and in creating delicious beverages. “La Chiripada Winery in Dixon,” she says. “Well, that’s my dad. I grew up in the wine business and then married a beer drinker.” Naturally, Kristin and husband, Scott, did some home brewing. “We had this dream, ‘Wouldn’t it be great to open a brewery?’ After talking about it for years, one day my dad said we ought to just do it.” Taking her kids to meet the school bus every day, she noticed this building. “It became available,” says Kristin, as her face lights up and she laughs. “Before I know it, I’m in the brewing business!” Most of Blue Heron’s clientele are from surrounding communities. Some customers are just passing through, but a few regulars come from as far away as Taos and Santa Fe. Kristin is glad for the growth in microbrewing. “It’s wonderful we have all these breweries opening up, because the more people who are used to seeing and having a quality beer, the more of the market we’re capturing. I love it when folks come in my door and it’s a new experience. They taste our beers and they come back.” Kristin also sees a uniquely American side to the phenomenon. “In Europe, they have traditional beers and no room to change them. Here, we are not beholden to tradition and have the freedom to do whatever we want. It’s just the way we Americans think! A trend is happening in Europe,” she adds. “People there are experiencing American beers and being wowed by them.” With an eye on the future, Blue Heron Brewing has secured a location on the plaza in Española for a second taproom, which they hope to have open in the spring of 2014. But on one point Kristin remains clear: Blue Heron Brewing will always be a small family business. From pilsners to porters, there are as many takes on craft brewing as there are craft brewers, and, bottom line, the people in the craft brewing business care about beer in ways no board of directors could. For those of us who have already found our favorite beer in the craft section, the new names on the horizon are a good thing—I’m always up for trying a new IPA or ESB. For those of you finding the insipid liquid in your glass is no longer quite cutting it, you have lots of choices. I encourage you to be adventurous in spirit, head for the pub and order up a flight of what your local brewer has to offer. There’s a whole world of tastes waiting for you, and when you find one that suits your palate, you’ll be happy. And, in turn, the voice will be happy, too. Special thanks to Chris Goblet, Director of The New Mexico Brewers Guild. nmbeer.org. Amber Ale, Marble Red, India Pale Ale and Oatmeal Stout

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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In Your Neighborhood A Visit to Some of our Craft Brewers Albuquerque

Rio Rancho

Bosque Brewing Company 8900 San Mateo Blvd. NE 505.750.7596 bosquebrewingco. com

Turtle Mountain Brewing 905 36th Place SE, Suite C 505.994.9497 turtlemountainbrewing.com

Broken Bottle Brewery 9421 Coors Blvd. NW, Suite K 505.890.8777 brokenbottlebrewery. com Chama River Brewing Company 4939 Pan American Freeway 505.342.1800 chamariverbrewery. com Il Vicino Brewery 2381 Aztec NE 505.881.2737 ilvicino.com Additional Il Vicino restaurant locations: 11225 Montgomery NE 505.271.0882 ilvicino.com 3403 Central Ave. NE 505.266.7855 ilvicino.com 10701 Corrales Blvd. NW 505.899.7500 ilvicino.com Kellys Brew Pub 3222 Central Ave. SE 505.262.2739 kellysbrewpub.com La Cumbre Brewing 3313 Girard Blvd. NE 505.872.0225 lacumbrebrewing. com Marble Brewery 111 Marble Ave. NW 505.243.2739 marblebrewery.com Marble Brewery Westside Tap Room 5740 Night Whisper Rd. NW 505.508.4368 marblebrewery.com Nexus Brewery 4730 Pan American Freeway NE, Suite D 505.242.4100 nexusbrewery.com Sandia Chile Grill 7120 Wyoming Blvd., Suite 7D 505.798.1970 sandiachilegrill.com The Stumbling Steer 3700 Ellison Rd. NW 505.792.7805 Tractor Brewing 118 Tulane SE 505.443.5654 getplowed.com 18

OCTOBER 2013

Santa Fe Blue Corn Brewery 4056 Cerrillos Rd. 505.438.1800 bluecorncafe.com Blue Corn Café 133 Water St. 505.984.1800 bluecorncafe.com Duel Brewing 1228 Parkway Dr., Unit D 505.474.5301 duelbrewing.com Il Vicino 321 W. San Francisco St. 505.986.8700 ilvicino.com

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OCTOBER 2013

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Balloons and Beyond Indian Pueblo Cultural Center

Photo: New Mexico Kayak Instruction

Balloon Fiesta weekend kicks off the American Indian Arts Festival at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, too. More than 100 indigenous artists showcase traditional and contemporary works in clay, silver, glass, leather and more, to accompany the daily dances, fashion shows, art demonstrations and food. This wonderful family-oriented event, October 5 and 6, runs from 9 to 5 each day. While you’re there, visit the excellent gallery and museum exhibitions about the 19 pueblos and treat yourself to an authentic Native meal from the Pueblo Harvest Café. indianpueblo.org

s t o r y b y K E L LY K O E P K E

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ast year, I wrote a (not so) tongue-in-cheek Balloon Fiesta survival guide for those of us who have endured early mornings, late nights and visitor enthusiasm for Albuquerque’s biggest and most visible event. This year, rather than another rant about the impossibility of finding parking, the necessity of making restaurant reservations (horrors!) or the need for siestas, how about a celebration of all the activities, sites and happenings on tap in addition to the fiesta? Here are some of my favorite picks this year.

Balloon Fiesta Kayak Tours A paddling tour of the Rio Grande doesn’t have to take place during the fiesta, but with an early morning start, you could have the balloons flying right above your head. Float along the river, far from the madding crowds, neck craned and camera at the ready for a unique perspective on hundreds of balloons soaring overhead. And with our recent rains, the river is flowing so well that sandbars won’t spoil the fun. Quiet Waters Paddling Adventures offers Float the Fiesta Adventures, which put you (with a professional guide, of course) in the water in Bernalillo, fuel you up with a snack and time the journey so you arrive at Balloon Fiesta Park in time for the morning mass ascension. quietwaterspaddling.com 20

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Casa San Ysidro The Albuquerque Museum’s historic Casa San Ysidro: The Gutiérrez/ Minge House, in Corrales, dates to the 1870s. Today, the hacienda that once belonged to the family of the 1704 Bernalillo Township Grant recipient, Don Felipe Gutiérrez, features a comprehensive collection of New Mexican art and furnishings. Open only for guided tours, this authentic 19th century rancho comprises a small family chapel, a central plazuela and an enclosed corral. The house takes its name from the patron saint of farming, San Ysidro Labrador. This little slice of life in 1800s New Mexico is kid-friendly, and reservations are not required (though groups of ten or more are asked to call ahead). 505.898.3915

ABQ Trolley Tour of “Breaking Bad” A modern tour of Albuquerque features the locations, buildings and views that fans of AMC’s Emmy-winning, gut-wrenching Duke City–filmed “Breaking Bad” will recognize and revere. ABQ Trolley Company’s BaD Tour might be the hottest ticket in town. In fact, at press time, only a few seats remained on the R-rated narrated jaunt around the Duke City during October. Meth, murder and mayhem, as you tour Walter White and Jesse Pinkman’s Albuquerque? Yes, please. Covering 38 miles and 13 major show locations (including Saul Goodman’s law office and Twisters, aka Los Pollos Hermanos), each tour lasts three and a half hours and accommodates 34 people. Get on board, bitch! abqtrolley.com

Wine Tastings at Gruet, St. Clair and Casa Rondeña All that balloon watching can be exhausting. The wine tastings at Gruet, St. Clair and Casa Rondeña will slake your thirst and put a bounce in your step. During fiesta, Gruet (with its proximity to


Photo: Courtesy the Albuquerque Museum

Gran Sala, Casa San Ysidro

Sam Gilliam, The Petition, 1990, mixed media, Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of the James F. Dicke Family, © 1990 Sam Gilliam

Photo: www.elltography.com

Balloon Fiesta Park) hosts champagne breakfast viewing parties that include food from The Sassy Apron and two glasses of lauded Gruet wines. Casa Rondeña, in its bucolic North Valley setting, features Music in the Vines on select afternoons during fiesta with local musicians (and picnics! and wine!). Then try one of the dozen or so wine flights at St. Clair Winery & Bistro in Old Town for the perfect end to a multifaceted viticultural day. gruetwinery.com casarondena.com stclairwinery.com

Albuquerque Museum Two outstanding exhibitions at the Albuquerque Museum in Old Town will cram a little more culture into your fiesta. Until October 27, see Landscape Drawings from the Collection, the first exhibition in the museum’s new Works on Paper Gallery. Drawings and watercolors by artists like Seth Eastman, Samuel Colman, Raymond Jonson, Charles Burchfield and Gene Kloss date from the 1850s to the 1950s, and all depict astounding vistas of Arizona and New Mexico. Then visit African-American Art in the 20th Century, 100 paintings, sculptures, and photographs by 43 African-American artists on loan from the Smithsonian American Art Museum until January 2014, more than half of which have never been shown before. albuquerquemuseum.org African American Art in the 20th Century is organized by the Smithsonian American Art Museum with generous support from Alston & Bird, Amherst Holdings, LLC; Diane and Norman Bernstein Foundation; Larry Irving and Leslie Wiley; the William R. Kenan, Jr. Endowment Fund; Clarence Otis and Jacqui Bradley; and PEPCO. The C.F. Foundation in Atlanta supports the museum’s traveling exhibition program, Treasures to Go.

St. George Grecian Festival The beer and wine flow freely at the St. George Grecian Festival, October 4 through 6, the other annual Albuquerque event that feels like it draws as many people as the Balloon Fiesta. This three-day extravaganza of Hellenic culture, cuisine and music is a must for lovers of great food, great dancing and life. Don’t even try to park near the event; take the free park-and-ride from Lomas and University. Do, however, shop in the marketplace for Greek foodstuffs, clothing, art, jewelry and souvenirs. Kids are heartily welcome, so bring the brood for the dancing, dining and language lessons. Opa! abqgreekfest.com A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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s t o r y b y K AT E G E RW I N photos by GABRIELLA MARKS

W

e were five foodie friends out to dine on the west side of Albuquerque ... but where to go? I had recently heard about an Italian restaurant that opened only a few weeks prior. Although I generally steer clear of new restaurants until they are well past the honeymoon stage, we decided to give it a whirl and visit M’Tucci’s Kitchina three weeks after it opened its doors to the public.

Jeff and Katie Spiegel opened M’Tucci’s Kitchina, located in a strip mall on the corner of Coors and Montano, to a community longing for more locally owned restaurants. Corporate chain businesses and loads of concrete surround M’Tucci’s, and this family-owned neighborhood establishment has filled a void for many foodophiles in the Rio Rancho area. When the successful New York City restaurateurs moved to Albuquerque in 2007, they had no intention of opening more restaurants, but they “felt that there was an opportunity for an excellent Italian restaurant in the area.” The Spiegels operated 11 restaurants in New York City over a period of 23 years. “We opened our first restaurant, Margaritas, in New York City, in 1983. It was what we called Southwestern. We had our red and green [chile] shipped from Albuquerque [Jeff ’s hometown]. Our first chef, Christine Keff, had been a sauté cook at Four Seasons. We had a menu which relied on classic Escoffier cooking techniques using Mexican ingredients.” The Spiegals’ restaurants have housed many James Beard Award–winning chefs. They even had Anthony Bourdain as a chef for a year, at the end of which they fired him. Not surprisingly, they explained, “He was smart and engaging, but at that stage of his life he was more into fun than anything else.” No strangers to the biz, the Speigels have implemented their “signature formula” in all of their restaurants—serious food, moderate prices and a casual, fun environment—and combined

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| Cesare Griglia


it with the cooking techniques of partner and chef, John Haas to create M’Tucci’s Kitchina. The menu is large, and there are selections for everyone. Now, let me warn you, this ain’t your grandma’s Italian cooking. The cuisine departs from the Italian food you may be used to, but have no fear, the hearty flavor you seek is lurking around every corner. M’Tucci’s website even declares that the cuisine features many modernistic twists. Be prepared for deconstructed classics, spin-offs, and gluten-free sauces, dressings and pastas. “There are very few things that we can’t make gluten-free,” said Chef John. “Our meatballs have some bread in them, but all of our sauces are gluten-free. We have a gluten-free pasta we use. All of our other proteins are gluten-free, our salad dressings are, our polenta is. We built this menu to be extremely gluten-conscious and vegetarian friendly.” The restaurant’s large open space is decorated with mismatched trinkets hand-selected by Jeff and Katie. The centerpiece of the dining room is a garden gazebo decorated with white lights and a dining table for guests. On my first visit to M’Tucci’s, my friends and I were seated at this table, and while at first it seemed a little oddly placed, later in the evening I noticed that it offered us a feeling of seclusion and privacy from the rest of the diners. (Or perhaps it gave the rest of the diners an escape from our boisterous laughter as we feasted on each others’ plates family-style and enjoyed a tasting journey through the modern Italian menu.) I am a sucker for beets and anything pickled, so the formaggio di capra was a no-brainer for me. A salad of creamy goat cheese, roasted beets, pickled onions and greens tossed in balsamic vinaigrette, this starter made me grin from ear to ear. The calamari fritti was tender and lightly fried. It was served with two sauces: a spicy homemade marinara with just the right acidity and an aioli dipping sauce that I found myself hoarding. I thought the antipasto del giorno was fairly typical. In comparison to the other dishes it didn’t stand out, but I look forward to the point when Chef John is making his own mozzarella, as I anticipate it will make this a distinguishing dish on the menu. We sipped on prosecco while our server, Kandrise Snow, entertained us with her wit and we took some time to digest our culinary journey so far. Kandrise was always there when we needed her but not overly intrusive so that we couldn’t enjoy each others’ company—a perfect balance. (This was consistent with the service I received on my second visit only a few weeks later. That time Daniel McCune was our host, and his service was both professional and courteous, with a “just went to dinner at my buddies’ house” feel.) When our dinner arrived and we began sampling each other’s plates, I realized the game had really begun. I was pleasantly pleased with our appetizers and salads, but the bar was raised on round two. I am a pizza snob, and although I wasn’t the one at the table who actually ordered the pizza, I can assure you that by the end of our meal that is what was lying before me. The alla campagna pizza was remarkable, with homemade dough baked in a wood–fired oven topped with goat cheese, caramelized onions, rosemary and pancetta, then drizzled with a balsamic glaze. There wasn’t a bite left to take home, and if there had been we probably would have all fought over it. Although as I mentioned, I didn’t order the pizza, but what I did order was voted the overall winner at the table. The pappardelle alla crema di porcini was the crowd pleaser, and the pizza probably ended up in front of me because everyone else inhaled my ribbons of house-made pasta, draped with a rich and savory parmesan and porcini cream sauce that was eventually licked clean and sopped up with every piece of bread we had. (Yah, that’s it. It was their fault I ate all the pizza.) Taking an Italian twist to the classic English bangers and mash, the polenta salsiccia is the dish Chef John is most proud of—and rightfully so. The grilled “Haas-made” savory sausage is made with Kurobuta pork from a farm in Iowa, near where he grew up. “I’ve been to these farms, seen their practices, watched the animals being raised. I know this is the best product I can bring to the table,” he said. “And growing up in Iowa, I love my pork and my corn!” Chef John also mentioned he has recently taken a personal interest in the “development of our beverage program. I’ve spent a lot of time with Cindy Boutelle, our bar manager, in bringing along our wine list, and I think it’s excellent. We added a reserve list that ranges from mid 20’s to mid 90’s and focus on low exposure wineries that deliver amazing value for their quality.” The new craft cocktail list, created by Austin Leard, a well-established local bartender, focuses on fresh ingredients and artisanal spirits from Italy. I didn’t find many exciting non-alcoholic selections, but after discovering and discussing our mutual passion for shrubs (drinking vinegars), I eagerly await Chef John’s inclusion of some of these creations and pray that the shrub craze will catch on.

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As a former restaurant owner myself, I can tell when someone really loves the business, and watching Jeff and Katie Spiegel work the dining room as if they are executing an elegantly designed waltz, it is clear the work is in their blood. It’s no shock to me that they have found themselves at the helm of yet another venture, this time in Albuquerque. The perfect partnership with Chef John Haas is the final piece of the puzzle, and their collective passion for the dining industry is sure to turn heads, as it certainly turned mine. I will leave you with one last little morsel of advice. Try the twinkie. Just do it. And don’t order one to share or you will fight over it. I have heard it referred to as “Italian crack” on multiple occasions. Trust me, you won’t regret it. M’Tucci’s Kitchina is located at 6001 Winter Haven Road SW in Albuquerque, 505.503.7327.

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Pollo Alla Griglia

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Photo: Bobby Gonzales

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& KriS DeLMHOrST

MATT & SHANNON HeATON

oCT

Featuring: cellist Antonio Lysy • the Capitol String Ensemble • acclaimed tango dancers Miriam Larici and Leonardo Barrionuevo • PoSt-Show MiLongA (Argentinian dance) featuring Qtango (Sponsored by tangoXchange.)

In Concert and Conversation

In Concert and Conversation

JAke ShimAbukuro

Te Amo, ArgenTinA

Oct 19 Jeffrey fOuCAuLT Nov 6 THe STeeL WHeeLS Nov 23 PeTer CASe Dec 13 vieNNA TeNg

www.lospoblanos.com | 505.344.9297

bALé foLCLóriCo da bAhiA National Hispanic Cultural Center • Thurs, 8pm Co-presented by National Hispanic Cultural Center

Tickets: Hold My Ticket (112 2nd St SW), 505-886-1251 and ampconcerts.org

KiMo Theatre

nov

19

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

OCTOBER 2013

25


Life in the

EMBUDO VALLEY

{ The Embudo Valley and Mesa de la Cejita. Photographer Joseph Ciaglia

s t o r y b y S TA N C R AW F O R D

F

Photo by Lee Akins

or a somewhat remote community, what is the right mix of activities that makes it viable, livable, even stimulating, and at least somewhat selfsustaining?

{ Artist Judith Buffaloe.

{ Canoncito Adobes. Artist Clarence Medina 26

OCTOBER 2013

magazine.com

This has been the underlying question for the Embudo Valley area of Northern New Mexico, in its slow reinvention over the last four decades. Once a commercial and distribution hub connecting the mountain villages a thousand feet higher with the Denver and Rio Grande Western narrow-gauge Chile Line that ran down through the lower reaches of the Rio Grande Gorge, with a stop at Embudo Station, Dixon has become a hub of another sort, serving as a model for other small communities seeking to become nodes of creativity and innovation. It could be argued that the mix of business, agriculture, arts and entertainment, for-profit and nonprofit enterprises, and a good range of public services is essential for a community to become and remain the center of its own universe. The Embudo Valley has always been rich in small-scale agriculture, and over the past generation, livestock production has yielded to market gardens, orchards of various sizes and the cultivation of grapes for La Chiripada and Vivac Wineries. Hops are grown locally but not yet on a scale sufficient to serve Blue Heron Brew Pub in Rinconada. A dozen small farms provide produce to farmers’ markets in Española, Santa Fe, Taos and to Dixon’s own Wednesday afternoon farmers’ market, as well as to the Dixon Coop Market. Two cafes in the area—Zuly’s in Dixon, which serves traditional New Mexican dishes, and Sugar’s in Embudo, with its nationally recognized burgers—spare hungry residents long drives to Española or Taos for a night out at least a few times a week. Artists and writers began settling in Dixon in the 1960s. Among writers, the most prominent at the time was the late Robert Grant, who wrote under the pen name of Robert Granat. Others of an artistic bent soon followed, particularly craftspeople, who populated seasonal arts and crafts fairs in Taos, Santa Fe, Los Alamos and Albuquerque. Some arrived with skills already honed, others with only the idea of creating something with their own hands and eventually acquiring a degree of financial independence through their work. Dixon turned out to be a good place to reinvent oneself; it has nurtured a large number of painters, potters, jewelry makers, weavers, cabinet makers, photographers and digital artists over the decades.


Photo: Jim O’Donnell

An early culmination of this trend was the creation of the Dixon Studio Tour 30-some years ago by jewelry maker Carolyn Thomas and the late ceramicist Nausika Richardson. Since its modest beginnings, it has evolved into a full-blown village arts festival in which virtually everyone in the valley is involved, either as a participant or as spectator. But the studio tour doesn’t just happen every first weekend in November, in the manner of leaves turning in the autumn. It is the end product of the volunteer labor of some 50 tour members who put in long hours organizing committees and overseeing publicity. They are also behind the creation and mailing of 10,000-plus maps, the making of 50 or more wooden signs and banners, the ordering and setting up of portable toilets, coordinating with state police, setting up and tearing down the group show at the Toolshed theater space, paying bills, applying for grants and so on. Which leads to the larger point: that the infrastructure of almost any small community is sustained by continuous volunteer labor. The very successful Dixon Coop Market, which started out nine years ago as a gleam in the eye of young visionary Clark Case, now employs four full-time and five part-time workers, and is supported by the efforts of some 40 volunteers who serve as cashiers, unload delivery trucks, stock shelves and recycle cardboard, all under the supervision of a volunteer board of directors. The 2012 value of the volunteer labor was estimated to be almost $100,000, without which the coop could not survive. The work of community is never-ending; it’s a muscle that must be continuously exercised. It is, in a sense, the real social life of the community. The nine acequias depend on the labor of 27 unpaid volunteer commissioners to manage the paid mayordomos and ditch workers. The 15 members of the Dixon Volunteer Fire Department serve without pay, though are eligible for a modest public pension after ten years of active service. The mutual domestic water associations are, likewise, volunteer-staffed. The new local radio station. The Dixon Farmers’ Market. The new Carnelian Center, which is devoted to alternative forms of health care and spiritual practice. The Dixon Animal Protection Society, which places abandoned dogs and cats. The Twice Nice Thrift Store. The Senior Citizen Center. The keystone non-profit in Dixon is the Embudo Valley Library, founded in 1992 by Marcia and Bob Brenden, Sandy Funk, Shel Neymark and the late Jane Kaluta; it will soon move into its third facility, the building of which will be concluded shortly. The library operates under a volunteer board of directors, which supervises a paid librarian and the dozen volunteers who run the front desk, and which has raised funding for the new facility through grants and individual contributions. The library is, in fact, the owner of the land and its new building, plus the old Zellers house, which will be converted into a community center, plus the old Zellers store, home of the Dixon Coop Market. This unusual situation of a non-profit owning its own facilities was made possible by a grant by a local foundation and a major community fundraising effort, which enabled the purchase of the old Zellers property in downtown Dixon ten years ago. But communities can’t exist though non-profits and volunteers alone; a community needs businesses, farms and jobs for its members. Besides Los Alamos National Laboratory and various medical centers and state government agencies, including the Dixon school and post office,

Photo: Lee Akins

{ Vivac owners left to right: Chris, Lilliana, Michele, and Jesse Padberg

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

OCTOBER 2013

27


EMBUDO perhaps the largest employers in the valley are locally based builders and cabinet makers, including plumbers and electricians. Mark Johnson’s Sol Luna Solar has installed photovoltaic panels on a number of houses in the valley, as well as elsewhere in Northern New Mexico. Local farms, including the wineries, employ full-time and part-time workers. There are two galleries in the area: Irene Smith’s Metier Studio Gallery, in Dixon, and Mark Saxe and Betsy Williams’ Rift Gallery, in Rinconada. And of course the brew pub, the cafes and the coop all keep their owners and managers and workers busy full-time. The Toolshed, Dixon’s new theatrical venue created by Simon Feaveryear, inspires its volunteer players to engage in countless hours of rehearsing lines and music several times a year, under the direction of Holly Haas. And with all this busyness, if you back your car into a neighbor’s in a crowded parking lot, we have two body and paint shops that can repair the damage. And a clinic to deal with any injuries and minor illnesses. And a dentist. And, should you wish to sample life in the Embudo Valley, there are at least a half of dozen vacation rental guest houses for short-term stays. Dixon has benefited from an influx of retirees young enough to have reserves of energy left for much of the volunteer work, and, of course, volunteering is one way to become part of the community. Over the decades, my wife, RoseMary, and I have depended on the labor of hundreds of volunteers to help us bring in the garlic and shallot crops in June and July, and to plant garlic and shallots in October—in addition to the dozens of paid workers who have helped on the farm, often as their first job in the valley. But no community can survive unless it is regularly replenished by an influx of young people and native sons and daughters returning to pick up the reins. RoseMary and I were part of such an influx in the late 1960s, and we have seen several waves since then. Most recently Clarence Medina, after going away to college, has established himself as an important regional landscape painter. The Padberg brothers, Chris and Jesse, and their wives, Liliana and Michelle, have created Vivac Winery and its sideline businesses featuring hand-crafted chocolates and photographs by Liliana and paintings by Michelle. Chalako Chilton, who grew up in Dixon, and his Mexican-born wife, Zuly, have given the community Zuly’s Cafe. Kristen Johnson Henley of the Johnsons of La Chirpada is the force behind Blue Heron Brew Pub. Our own son, Adam—or Atom—Crawford has settled with his partner, Rachel Moore, and built a house at the eastern end of the valley. Owen MacDonald is now helping his mother, Joan, with her innovative fabric designs. A young couple, Justin and Lyn Kirmse, are in the early stages of establishing a school that teaches building restoration techniques. At least five farms bring in young interns each year, some of whom would like to settle here. Estevan and Elena Arellano have been collaborating with Woodbury University, in Burbank, California, for several years now, bringing in students to study land use, erosion and water use problems in the valley, to the benefit of all those who participate in their public presentations. Dixon and the Embudo Valley may never be fully self-sustaining, nor should they be, as the lives of us, the area residents, are stimulated and enlivened by wider and wider waves of exchange, particularly in the arts and intellectual pursuits. But in the meantime, we could certainly use a good mechanic. And a vet. And a barber. And a baker to replace the Starlight Bakery, which had to close after a brief but successful run, owing to illness. Any candidates out there? Stanley Crawford writes and farms in the Embudo Valley.

5757588866 WWW.THEGORGEBARANDGRILL.COM LOCATED IN THE HISTORIC TAOS PLAZA

our

32 nNdD yea r!

For more information on The 32 Dixon Studio Tour held this year on November 2 and 3 from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. visit their website at dixonarts.org. 28

OCTOBER 2013

magazine.com

DIXON 75 285

The Finest in Art and Craft since 1982

68

ESPAÑOLA

November 2 & 3 9am-5pm

575.779.1662 www.dixonarts.org

PEÑASCO

EMBUDO RINCONADA

OJO CALIENTE

SANTA FE

funded in part by Rio Arriba Lodger’s Tax

Simple Food – Well Prepared

Located in the historic El TorrEon HaciEnda, 1017 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (1.2

nd

TAOS

milEs norTH of THE

Taos Plaza)

575.751.3337 | Hours: Tues-Sat 5:30pm-9:30pm | www.elmeze.com


315 Restaurant & Wine Adelitas

Pizzeria da Lino Pranzo Italian Grill

Amaya Anasazi Andiamo!

Pyramid Café Raaga Red Sage

Arroyo Vino Atrisco Café

Restaurant Martin Rio Chama

Babaluu's Cocina Cubana Bert's Burger Bowl Bouche Bistro Café Pasqual's Casa Chimayo Coyote Café

Ristra Santa Fe Bar & Grill Santa Fe Capitol Grill Santacafé Shohko Café Steaksmith

Del Charro Dr. Field Goods Kitchen El Farol

Swiss Bistro & Bakery Taberna La Boca Tabla de los Santos

Fuego at La Posada Gabriel's Geronimo

Tanti Luce 221 Terra TerraCotta

Il Piatto Izmi Sushi Jalapeno's

Tesuque Village Market The Bistro at SF Courtyard The Club at Quail Run

Jambo Café Jinja Bar & Grill Joseph's

The Compound The Guesthouse The Mixed Grill

La Boca La Casa Sena La Plazuela

The Old House The Palace The Ranch House

Luminaria Maria's Midtown Bistro Omira Grill

The Shed The Teahouse

Osteria d'AssisiPainted Parrot Buffet Pecos Trail Café

Tomasita's Tortilla Flats Vanessie Vinaigrette Zia Diner

Photo by Lois Ellen Frank

Cheers to All these Great Santa Fe Restaurants For Another Great EvenT!


Omira

30

OCTOBER 2013

magazine.com

story by ERIN BROOKS photos by GABRIELLA MARKS


O

ne often discovers some of Santa Fe’s best spots in unlikely places: up or down a flight of stairs, off a tiny side street or concealed behind other businesses. This is the case with Omira Bar & Grill, Ziggy Rzig’s new restaurant tucked away inconspicuously in the shopping center on the corner of St. Francis Drive and Cerrillos Road. Omira, which opened in June, borrows the Brazilian concept of rodízio, a style of service common at churrascarias, or Brazilian-style steakhouses. For a fixed price, customers enjoy samples of various grilled meats sliced off a skewer by servers, or carvers, who keep coming back until the table signals they’ve had enough. The location may be a bit off the beaten track, but I have a feeling Omira won’t be unknown for long.

That’s because this isn’t the average all-you-can-eat restaurant, and Ziggy Rzig isn’t the average restaurant owner. Originally from Tunisia, Ziggy came to the U.S. in 1998, he tells me, “with only $100 in my pocket.” While in school for civil engineering, he supported himself by working in restaurants. In 2003 he walked into the failing Pyramid Café and convinced the owner to sell it to him. “The previous owner was about to close the restaurant, but I saw potential there,” the entrepreneurial Ziggy says. “It was a gamble, but it turns out I was made for the restaurant business.” He later opened a second Pyramid Café in Los Alamos. The advent of Omira came after the closure of Ziggy’s International Market, which opened in 2008 but closed after Talin Market World Food Fare came to town. “That was a big turn in my life—it was a whole different ball game than the restaurant business,” Ziggy reflects. “It needed a lot of capital, which I didn’t have, so I was breaking my back to support the place.” He decided it was time to move on to the next thing. “I love taking challenges,” he says, smiling. “I get bored quickly, so looking for the next challenge keeps me going. When Talin came to Santa Fe it was a big disappointment, but I decided to let them do their thing and move on to the next venture.” Like any good businessman, Ziggy looked for a niche, something no one else has done in Santa Fe. He started with the Brazilian concept of serving grilled meat from a skewer. But from here he branched out, consulting with three chefs—each from a different background—to come up with what he calls international cuisine. “I don’t consider this a Brazilian restaurant,” he says, making the distinction between the variety of food he offers and the Brazilian concept he took as his model. “Each of the chefs I worked with did their own traditional cooking. This was a combined effort.” Ziggy consulted David Boxer, a chef from Trinidad and Tobago in the Caribbean, who decided to focus on Indian and Caribbean cuisine for the menu. Michel Gerard, whom Ziggy calls “the master of meats,” brought his knowledge of Brazilian barbecue into the mix. Ziggy’s wife, Sally, who currently resides as chef, is from a South East Asian background and brings a bit of Asian influence to Omira’s menu. The result is an international mix of dishes: Asian coleslaw, Caribbean beef stew, curry mango chicken and meats ranging from Mediterranean chicken wrapped in bacon to Tokyo-style beef and German sausage. Even the “salad bar” is not what you’d expect. Forget lettuce, tomatoes and vinaigrette. Here, you can choose from almost two dozen already prepared dishes like soups, two types of kale salad, warm potato cakes, basmati rice and delicious chopped watermelon and cantaloupe in mint dressing. What really makes Omira unique and a cut above other all-you-can-eat restaurants is the quality of the food. Meats and produce alike are sourced locally, and Ziggy tells me that the most important thing for him is the quality of the food. Grass-fed pork and lamb come from Talus Wind Ranch Heritage Meats, a 460-acre ranch in Galisteo with a dedication to humanely raised meats and environmental sustainability. Grass-fed beef is sourced from 4 Daughters Land & Cattle Company, located south of Los Lunas. Ziggy also visits the farmers’ market each week to find local produce. He is excited at the freedom sourcing locally brings to the menu at Omira. “I can go to the farmers’ market twice a week and change the menu every day if I want,” he says excitedly. Sourcing food locally also gives Ziggy the opportunity to form relationships with local producers. “When I buy locally,” he says, “I know the producers, and I know they care about what they do, just like me. They’re knowledgeable, and they do what they do because they enjoy it and have a passion for it. It’s not like the big companies who just care about making a profit.” Ziggy’s enthusiasm and dedication are apparent when I stop by Omira for dinner. Before moving to a table I take a few minutes at the bar, and Ziggy explains his eccentric beer selections. All the beers on tap are from Belgium, and they aren’t available on tap anywhere else in Santa Fe. “This is what Stella Artois wants to be,” Ziggy boasts as he pours me a taste of the light, fresh Bavik Premium Pilsner. Next, I try the Lucifer Blonde, a very “Champagne-like” beer, which is extraordinarily light and crisp at eight percent alcohol. Ziggy has also taken care with the wine list, choosing several food-friendly by-the-glass wines like a Terredora Aglianico from Italy and an aromatic 2 Copas Macabeo from Spain. Bottles are reasonably priced, with the widest selection ranging from about $20 to $60. If you don’t want beer or wine, you can always go for a Brazilian lemonade or limeade. I made sure to save my appetite for dinner, thinking I’d try a bit of everything, but the sheer number of dishes quickly got the best of my dinner companion and me—we’re already looking forward to going back to try more. Our first stop was the salad bar. We loaded our plates with Caribbean-style beans, curry chicken and both potato and kale salad. Signs designate which items are made from local ingredients. I loved the hearty Caribbean beef stew, which was wonderfully flavorful, and the curry mango chicken that fell right off the bone. Most of the dishes at the salad bar are great options for herbivores, and dining without grilled meats costs about a third less. Vegans will find some items here as well (mushrooms in balsamic vinaigrette, kale salad, rice and fresh fruit).

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

OCTOBER 2013

31


Omira

Bernalillo County Presents the

A cultural, culinary experience celebrating the diverse heritage and special flavors of New Mexico presented by The Bernalillo County Board of County Commissioners. There will be live entertainment and a Kids’ Zone.

Saturday, October 12 and Sunday, October 13 National Hispanic Cultural Center Albuquerque, NM 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.

www.thetasteofnm.com

| Ziggy Rzig

Next, we tapped on the silver lamp on the table, which signals to carvers to come over with samples or, if the light is turned off, to stop. With the light on, our journey through the meats began. The super friendly carvers came one by one to our table to offer us small bites of different meats, explaining the preparations and marinades. First was leg of lamb marinated in mint yogurt sauce, followed by ground turkey eggrolls with an Asian-style sriracha and soy sauce hot sauce—so yummy! The prime rib was a highlight, having been cooked slowly on a skewer with a bit of fat, which flavored and softened the meat. The jerk chicken was deliciously juicy, and I loved how all the meats, whether sausage or filet mignon, came out piping hot and dripping with juices. The grilled pineapple basted in butter and brown sugar was the perfect dessert. I’ve never had warm pineapple, but it’s incomparable to the fruit’s flavor when served at room temperature—the heat makes the juices explode in your mouth. My favorite part about our dinner was the melding of different flavors on our plates: prime rib with Caribbean beans, potato cakes with kale, spicy eggrolls with basmati rice. Although the portions are small, it’s impossible to leave Omira hungry, as there are so many dishes to sample. The price is more than fair—$27.95 per person. I can’t think of another restaurant in town that offers higher quality food at such an inexpensive price tag, and I’ve easily racked up $150 bills at tapas restaurants in town. Ziggy explains that volume will be the key to success at Omira, and he hopes to fill the restaurant for both lunch and dinner (it seats about 100). With private booths lining the walls and tables for larger parties, this will be the perfect spot for couples and large groups alike. I can’t wait to see Omira catch on—this is a great addition to our City Different. Omira Bar & Grill is located at 1005 South St. Francis Drive (right next to Susan’s Fine Wines). 505.780.5483. omiragrill.com. 32

OCTOBER 2013

Bike Riding in Santa Fe is very Challenging.

Rent some Assistance. ElectroBiking Santa Fe now offers the amazing pedalassisted, Swiss designed, Stromer e:bike for rental. Bike riding in and around Santa Fe will never be the same once you experience the Stromer’s ride assisted power.

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magazine.com ElectoBikeRental-LocalFlavor1.indd 1

8/26/13 6:59 PM


True Italian Pizzeria & Gelatteria • Wood Burning oven • Banquet Rooms • Live music • Beer & Wine • Take-out 204 Guadalupe St ~ Santa Fe 505-982-8474 ~ pizzeriadalino.com

150 Washington Ave • Santa Fe In the Courtyard, one block North of the Plaza

B e s t pi z z a i n t o w n !

Reservations: 505-983-3328

santafebullring.com • Now on opentable.com

FRIDAY

Simply the best... a Santa Fe landmark!

OCT

18

“snazzy stewards of a timeless brand of funky hard bop” tacos and more provided by Bumble Bee’s Baja Grill plus additional refreshments by Zinc WIne Bar & Bistro

T H U R S D AY

6:30PM: PRE-CONCERT RECEPTION 7:15PM: WEIL HALL DEDICATION 7:45PM: CONCERT

OCT

17

CLAYTON BROTHERS CONCERT ONLY EVENT: THURSDAY, OCTOBER 17, 7:30PM

210 Yale SE 505.268.0044 www.outpostspace.org

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

OCTOBER 2013

33


SINGLE MALT

A

re you hip? Do you carry a hip flask? If you do and you are a millennial (or wish you were), chances are good that you carry Single Malt Scotch in it. Why? Because in our never-ending search for bolder and more exciting flavors in food and drink, Single Malt Scotches are growing in popularity, particularly with the hip crowd. Because of that growing popularity, the category is broadening its scope and redefining itself in the process.

But what is this drink called Single Malt Scotch? Scotch is a type of whisky, but whisky (spelled without an “e” when it refers to Scotch) includes Canadian, Irish, American Rye, Bourbon and examples from several other countries. The Scotch Whisky Association defines a Single Malt Scotch as “a Scotch whisky distilled at a single distillery from water and malted barley without the addition of other cereals [grains]and by batch distillation in pot stills. From November 23, 2012, Single Malt Scotch Whisky must be bottled in Scotland.” To describe the process in a very basic fashion, dried barley is soaked and allowed to germinate. It is then tossed, or “flipped,” on a malting floor, often exposed to the heat and smoke of burning peat, mixed with water from a spring or local stream that is heated to produce a “wort,” which is then fermented, distilled and aged in cask. Wine lovers often appreciate all the variables that go in to producing a fine wine, and Single Malt Scotch can also be affected by a myriad of influences: the barley’s provenance, the water used for the wort, the interaction of local air and yeast, the speed of the fermentation, the shape and neck of the still, the dents in the still (so some distillers say), the type of cask used for maturing the whisky, what the cask was used for previously (bourbon, sherry or wine) and how long the whisky is aged. All play a part. I looked for a local and visible array of labels reflecting different whiskies and found it at Susan’s Fine Wine and Spirits. Depending on the availability of allocated and scarcer whiskies (note the plural spelling for Scotch whisky), Susan’s carries 90 to 100 Single Malt Scotches. I stop in to talk to Michael Waddington, the store’s assistant manager, who has made a trip to Scotland, visited ten distilleries there and continues to taste and read up on the topic. He is an avid Scotch lover and a wealth of information about the spirit. After reviewing for me what Scotch is, he answers my questions, always careful to differentiate between what is the usual response and what is his own take on the topic. Geography used to be the determining factor for categorizing Single Malts. Traditionally, the spirit has been grouped into five regions, which refer to different areas in Scotland: Lowland, Highland, Speyside, Campbeltown, and the island Islay (pronounced “Eye-luh”). According to Michael, Lowland Malts can be described as “light and sweet,” Highlands as “fruity and spicy,” Speyside Malts as “floral and fruity” and Islay as “smoky and peaty.” These classifications have started to blur as new methods of aging and levels of peat come into the mix. Some people believe that Campbeltown and Islay comprise an unofficial category should not be separate but instead comprise a single , called Island Single Malts, because the sea contributes a salty tang to their whiskies.. As of now, however, that category is not officially recognized. In terms of matching a customer’s palate with a Single Malt, Michael uses the customer’s experience with other types of whiskey to make his recommendation. If the customer is new to the category, Michael recommends one of the Lowland malts, such as Auchentoshan 12 Year. The Lowlands lie closer to England, to the southwest, and have very few distilleries still producing, although there are some new ones getting established. Lowland mMalts are usually triple distilled, making them lighter; they also tend to be less peaty. If the customer is a bourbon drinker, Michael recommends a Speyside malt “with a grain richness,” sometimes described as “sweeter.” This area takes up the northeastern section of the Highlands region but is regarded as a separate region on its own. It represents a growing number of distilleries, including the two biggest, Glenfiddich and Glenlivet, as well as one of the store’s bestsellers, Macallan 12 Year.

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OCTOBER 2013

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Photo: Ikiwaner

Photo: Oyoyoy

Photo: Ayack

SCOTCH

story by PHILLIP DE GIVE

The Highlands region has a relatively large number of distilleries and geographically represents the northwest portion of Scotland that, confusingly, includes the island distilleries off the western coast. Many of the Highland whiskies could be described as “malty” and medium in terms of intensity and peatiness. And if the customer is a rye drinker, Michael recommends an island or coastal whisky. And here he digresses from the traditional classification by including (w), Islay, and possibly Campbeltown, and even distilleries such as Oban on the western Highland coast, in that group. He feels that maritime influence plays as big an influence on the style of the whisky as their inclusion in the regions. Finally, Islay has become the ultimate for many Single Malt aficionados. They will profess their love for Laphroaig and its smoky peatiness. Flavor associations used to describe these whiskies are “iodine, campfire or seaweed” because of the spirits’ powerful nose and taste components. Islay will soon see the new release of Kilchoman, the first independent all new” distillery this century. Michael points out that there are anomalies in the marketing of Single Malt Whisky. It is made at a single distillery but is almost always a blend of different Single Malt Whiskies from that distillery, some older than others. A reference to age on the label is not the age of the whisky, but the age of the youngest whisky in the blend. Different areas in Scotland may be famous for certain characteristics, such as peated or unpeated, but distillers will “break the rule.” One example is Bruichladdich, an unpeated whisky made on the island of Islay, which is famous for its highly peated whiskies. More in keeping with Islay’s fame, Bruichladdich has a peated series with a Scotch called Octomore that has peat measured at 140 ppm (parts per million)— basically off the charts for the category. Another exception is Springbank Distillery, a Campbeltown producer that produces three different whiskies with three different levels of peatiness: Longrow (highly peated), Springbank (moderately peated) and Hazelburn (unpeated). All this diversity begs to be investigated, and that can be time consuming and expensive. Many of these whiskies cost upwards of $100 a bottle retail. And no, the product will not spoil once opened, but how do you accelerate your education and appreciation firsthand and not break the bank? Two Fools Tavern in Albuquerque carries over 100 Single Malts by the drink, and general manager Russell Reid explains that they give the consumer several opportunities to experiment. The tavern offers a series of Scotch education classes, each lasting two hours, and they even have Single Malt pairing dinners twice a year. He agrees that the “hipsters” prefer the peatier malts, and he recommends the Islays on the leeward, southern coast of the island—Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg—since they are “exposed to the saltier air coming off the water.” But the “newest rage,” Russell says, is Single Malts that have been aged in different types of casks previously used for wines like Sherry, Port, or even French Sauternes. “The cask really influences the finished whisky,” he says adding that his new favorite is a special release Highland, Dalmore King Alexander III, that spends time in six different types of wood casks used for wine, Madeira, Port, Sherry, Marsala and Bourbon. He describes it as having “beautiful depth, a full palate—almost creamy—and an amazing clean finish.” How does he manage to acquire such rarities? “I read the whisky trade magazines and drive the wholesale liquor representatives crazy,” he responds with a chuckle. Talking to Michael and Russell, I make it a personal mission to expose my palate to additional Single Malt Scotches and visit their establishments more. One of the finest sprits I have ever tasted was a Speyside Glen Grant 21 Year Single Malt, but that was years ago and a lot more is available today. Here’s to “visiting” Scotland with my two experts and drinking a wee dram.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

OCTOBER 2013

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Still HUNGRY? A

s the last traces of Indian summer disappear, the days grow shorter and there’s no more room for denial. It’s full-on fall: time to move the party indoors. Say goodbye to grilled meats and light salads and hello to slow-cooked soups and braises. Below, four brew pubs fork over a warming selection of autumnal dishes—and, of course, tips for the best beers to serve with them.

s t o r y b y E V E T O L PA

Second Street Brewery

Turtle Mountain Brewing Company

Chef Jason Gleichman offers this quick and easy mussel recipe that pairs well with altbier. “The sweet, briny richness is nicely balanced by this old-style German beer,” he says, adding that the “malty, bitter and crisp” brew is “a fall seasonal favorite for us, but I could drink it year-round.”

From general manager Adam Galarneau comes Oktoberfest Butternut Squash Bisque. “This highlights the fall season,” he says of the recipe, which nods to Rio Rancho’s annual Oktoberfest. Galarneau recommends serving the soup with Turtle Mountain’s own Oktoberfest Lager. “But,” he notes, “any Märzen-style brew will work.”

Altbier Dijon Cream Mussels

Oktoberfest Butternut Squash Bisque

Serves 2 for entrees or 4 for appetizers

2 pounds mussels, cleaned and de-bearded 6 oz (about 3/4 cup) Second Street German Altbier 2 shallots, chopped 1 Tablespoon (or 3 cloves) garlic, chopped 2-3 slices cooked maple bacon, split lengthwise and thinly sliced or chopped 3 Tablespoons butter 2 Tablespoons French grain Dijon mustard 3 oz (about 1/3 cup) heavy cream fresh chopped herbs (parsley or thyme is great) 1 lemon, quartered pinch of kosher salt freshly ground pepper to taste artisan baguette Heat large saute pan (or 4-quart saucepan) over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons butter, shallot and garlic. Sweat slightly and add mustard, stirring in beer and cream quickly. Turn up heat, add mussels, season and cover. (Keep an eye on them as they start to open; the liquid should be simmering and thickening while they’re opening.) Toss in the last tablespoon of butter. Check seasoning and toss with the bacon and fresh herbs. Plate with tongs in bowls and garnish with herbs and a lemon quarter. Serve with a crusty baguette, for sopping up deliciousness. Bon appetit! Second Street Brewery has two locations in Santa Fe: 1814 Second Street, 505.982.3030, and 1607 Paseo De Peralta #10, 505.989.3278, secondstreetbrewery.com.

Serves 10-12

3 Tablespoons butter 1 Tablespoon olive oil 4 butternut squash 1 large potato, peeled and diced 2 yellow onions, peeled and diced 2 carrots, peeled and diced 6 sticks of celery, diced 3 cloves of garlic, peeled 3 quarts water 1 quart heavy cream 1 cup Turtle Mountain Brewing Company Oktoberfest Lager 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon white pepper Salt to taste Cut butternut squash in half from top to bottom and deseed. Coat with olive oil and place on sheet pan. Bake at 400 degrees until soft (30 to 40 minutes). Melt butter in sauce pan and sweat onions, carrots, garlic, celery and potato. (Do not brown!) Once vegetables are sweated, deglaze with Turtle Mountain Brewing Company Oktoberfest Lager. Add water and heavy cream, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Once at a simmer, add fresh thyme, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger and white pepper. Simmer until the potatoes are soft. Scoop out the squash and add to the rest of the ingredients, dispose of the skins. Puree all the ingredients in a blender until smooth and stir using a whisk and fine strainer. Serve garnished with fresh parsley and a dollop of sour cream. Turtle Mountain Brewing Company is located at 905 36th Place SE, Rio Rancho, 505.994.9497, turtlemountainbrewing.com.

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Blue Corn Cafe Eske’s Brew and Brewery Pub and Eatery Chef David Sundberg says that the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market carries many of the ingredients used in his short rib recipe, which is perfectly complemented by Blue Corn’s End of the Trail Brown Ale (not least because that particular brew is the cornerstone of the dish). End of the Trail “has notes of cocoa, chocolate, malt, toast and caramel,” adds head brewer John Bullard. “These flavors and aromas play nicely with a wide variety of fall foods.”

Brown Ale Braised Short Ribs

Serves 4

3-4 lbs beef short ribs (Sundberg likes Sweet Grass Cooperative, available at La Montanita Co-op) 2 pints Blue Corn Brewery End of the Trail Brown Ale (plus a couple extra growlers to serve with dinner) 2 medium sweet onions, sliced 5 sprigs fresh thyme 2 bay leaves 2 lbs fingerling potatoes 4 Tablespoons butter 1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped 3 Tablespoons dark brown sugar 1 Tablespoon flour 1 Tablespoon cornstarch Salt and pepper Season the short ribs liberally with salt and black pepper. In a Dutch oven (or large, deep skillet), sear the meat on all sides until well browned, then transfer to a plate to hold. Caramelize one of the sliced onions in the remaining oil, then add back in the ribs along with 1 tablespoon salt, 1 tablespoon pepper, 2 bay leaves, and the fresh thyme. Add the brown ale and enough water to cover the ribs by ½ inch. Cover the Dutch oven and place into a 350 oven for about 5 hours, until the ribs are fall-apart tender. Strain the braising liquid into a sauce pan and reduce over medium-high heat, along with the brown sugar, until almost half the liquid is gone. Whisk together the flour and cornstarch with ¼ cup of water, then whisk as much of that is needed into the braising liquid to thicken for the gravy. Meanwhile, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil with 1 tablespoon salt. Simmer the potatoes in this water for about 30 minutes until they are fork-tender. Drain the potatoes and cut them into bitesize pieces. In a large sauté pan, caramelize the remaining onion over medium heat in 4 tablespoons butter with a pinch of salt. When the onions are golden brown and sweet, add the potatoes and cook over medium-high heat until they caramelize slightly (similar to the way you’d cook breakfast potatoes). Add the parsley just before serving. Pile the potatoes into the middle of a large serving bowl, surround them with short ribs and drizzle generously with brown ale gravy. Pour a pint and enjoy! Blue Corn Cafe and Brewery has two locations in Santa Fe: 33 Water St., 505.984.1800, and 4056 Cerrillos Road, 505.438.1800, bluecorncafe.com. Photo: Kitty Leaken

According to pub co-owner Wanda Anderson, this beet and carrot salad was inspired by the amazing selection of local fall vegetables and by Melinda Bateman, at Morning Star Farm in Arroyo Seco, who grows them. “The Oat Cole Porter, an oatmeal porter we brew, would be a very nice beer to pair up with this salad,” says her husband, Steve “Eske” Eskeback. “It is a dark beer, lighter bodied than a stout, with just enough roasted flavor to balance out the sweetness of the beets and balsamic vinaigrette.”

Roasted Beet and Carrot Salad with Crumbled Gorgonzola Serves 6

For the salad: 4-5 medium-size golden and red beets (with leaves removed), scrubbed and sliced 6 or so small-to-medium–size carrots 1/2 teaspoon coarse ground sea salt or kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme 1 cup toasted walnuts 1 medium sweet onion, sliced and caramelized with 1 tablespoon butter and 1 teaspoon raw cane sugar 3/4 cup Gorgonzola cheese 8 oz (or 1/2 lb) fresh mesclun salad mix Toss 4-5 beets in mixture of extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper and thyme. Place beets on baking sheet and roast at 350 for 45-55 minutes, until tender. Put the carrots in the olive oil and herb mixture and set aside. Add these to the baking sheet with the beets after 20 minutes of cooking, so they come out at the same time. For the dressing: 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper 1 teaspoon dijon mustard 1 1/2 teaspoons maple syrup 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil Whisk together first 5 ingredients. Then slowly, in a drizzle, add the olive oil to these ingredients while whisking. To serve, toss mesclun salad mix with dressing and arrange sliced beets, carrots and caramelized sweet onions. Top with walnuts and crumbled Gorgonzola. Eske’s Brew Pub and Eatery is located at 106 Des Georges Lane, Taos, 575.758.1517, eskesbrewpub.com.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

OCTOBER 2013

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WINE BISTRO

New Fall Menu!

Lunch, Dinner & Sunday Supper • 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 • terracottawinebistro.com

Contemporary Clothing for Women 70 WEST MARCY STREET SANTA FE NM 87501 505.982.1399 www.wearaboutssantafe.com wearaboutssf@yahoo.com 38

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Good Taste! Good Time! The Compound Restaurant ~ A New Mexico Tradition

photo by Wes Naman

Bringing together local food, farmers and the community! See our website for a list of events and special dinners. Reservations are recommended.

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

LUNCH • DINNER • BAR Reservations 505.982.4353

653 Canyon Road

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

compoundrestaurant.com

OCTOBER 2013

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at four seasons resort rancho encantado

TASTE… Experience a twist on contemporary American cuisine inspired by northern New Mexico and infused with locallysourced organic ingredients. New Executive Chef Andrew Cooper’s menu blends a seasonal sense of balance, place and comfort.

TREAT YOURSELF at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado

For reservations or information, please call (505) 946-5700 or visit fourseasons.com/santafe

at four seasons resort rancho encantado

UNWIND… Escape to the Spa at Rancho Encantado where an innovative selection of spa and wellness services honoring New Mexico’s indigenous healing traditions awaits.


October 2013