Dancing Earth Rulan Tangen
Love & La bohème
Ana María Martínez
Spotlight On Marcy Sreet
JULY 2011 Santa Fe - Albuquerque - Taos
Mediterranean & Italian Cuisine by Chef Owner Steven Lemon
Three Course Prix fixe menu Daily lunch specials Mon - Fri 5-8 New Menu inspired by $19 availability of freshest
local farm ingredients. Wine dinners every 3rd Thursday of every Wine dinners everymonth. 3rd Thursday of every month. Daily lunch specials New Menu inspired by availability of freshest local farm ingredients. Squash Blossoms now available.
Reservations 505.455.2000 15 mins. from Santa Fe | 84/285 Mon 5pm-9pm North, 86 Cities of Gold Rd. Tues Thru saT 11am-9pm Between the Nambe Shop Closed sunday & Pueblo of Pojoaque Poeh Museum www.oeatinghouse.com
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Lavender is in full bloom at
Please join us and special guest vendors for our th
8 Annual Summer Studio Tour and Sale! Sale hours: Fri., July 8th 10-6 Sat., July 9th 9-5 Sun., July 10th 10-5 Featuring our signature Lavender Designs, Sold Nationwide Updates on classes, entertainment, and more! All inventory will be 25%-75% off Bring a friend and receive a free gift with $30 purchase
kellyjodesigns.com | 505-341-2737 | 6829 4th st. ( just north of Osuna), Los Ranchos de ABQ
Photo: Gabriella Marks
Buzz | by Patty and Christie pg. 06
Photo: Gabriella Marks Photo: Gaelen Casey
Photo: Kate Russell
ON OUR COVER: Rulan Tangen of Dancing Earth
Costume: by Dancing Earth. Makeup: Primitive Lipstick and W3LL products. Earrings and Bracelet: Pat Pruitt Monster Paws | by Christie Chisholm pg. 32
Albuquerque’s electrifying new band has “the big time” written all over it. Get in on the Monster action! Dancing Earth | by Ana June pg. 36
The stunning beauty on our cover is Rulan Tangen, founder of the indigenous dance company Dancing Earth.
What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not … that’s the buzz!
A Taste of Spain | by Elizabeth Tannen pg. 41
Love and La bohème | by Craig Smith pg. 11
The Spanish Table is a mecca of Spanish delicacies and kitchen ware known for pulling out all the stops in celebration of Spanish Market. But wait until you see what they have planned this year!
Join writer Craig Smith and renowned opera singer Ana María Martínez at the rehearsal of La bohème. At the Table | by Chef Johnny Vee pg. 16
Join Chef Leo Varos and O’Keeffe Cafe’s proprietor, Michael O’Reilly, for a glimpse into what makes their working relationship so special. Marcy Street | by Gail Snyder pg. 21
Wines at the Market | by James Selby pg. 44
Meet Rick Hale, the wine guru at Kaune’s, a man with the “reputation as one of the most articulate and analytical buyers in Santa Fe.” ¡Chuscales! | by Gail Snyder pg. 48
Take a jaunt down Marcy Street and see why we call it Santa Fe’s hottest new destination.
It is our privilege to bring you a conversation with internationally acclaimed flamenco guitarist Chuscales, playing with the Juan Siddi Flamenco Theatre Company through August 14.
Many Pleasures | by James Selby pg. 28
Still Hungry? | by Caitlin Richards pg. 52
The Den at Coyote Cafe just opened to rave reviews, and localflavor could not wait to see what all the excitement was about. We were not disappointed!
Two amazing brothers: Keith and Kevin Roessler, four amazing restaurants: Seasons, Savoy, Zinc and The Gorge. What are their chefs cooking up for localflavor?
2011 ~ P u b l i s h e r s Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor Patty Karlovitz P u b l i s h e r ’s A s s i s t a n t Caitlin Richards A r t D i r e c t o r Jasmine Quinsier C o v e r p h o t o : Kate Russell A d v e r t i s i n g : Michelle Moreland 505.699.7369. Lynn Kaufman 505.417.8876. P r e p r e s s : Scott Edwards A d D e s i g n : firstname.lastname@example.org D i s t r i b u t i o n : Southwest Circulation L o c a l F l a vo r 223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Te l : 505.988.7560 Fax: 988.9663 E - m a i l : l o c a l f l a vo r @ e a r t h l i n k . n e t We b s i t e : w w w . l o c a l f l a v o r m a g a z i n e . c o m localflavor welcomes new writers. Send writing samples to email@example.com localflavor is published 11 times a year: Feb, March, April, May, June, July, Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec/Jan. S u b s c r i p t i o n s $ 2 4 p e r y e a r . Mail check to above address. © Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.
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a 5-foot train out of pure cocoa bliss It’s absolutely free to walk around. Put called “The Transcontinental,” and with it on your short shorts and sizzle, in a good they nabbed first. Congratulations to the way. www.rt66central.com. Rochaus. Speaking of how unbelievably hot The KiMo Theatre’s got its old neon summer can be, there’s one really sign back, or at least a fairly convincing excellent, really delicious way to cool off: replica. To go along with its nod to with a paleta. The best place in town to Fe, Los Angeles and San Francisco (17 of days gone by, the theater’s also bringing find these Mexican popsicles—which them) take the stage with their one-woman by Christie Chisholm screened films back to its lush Pueblo come in flavors like strawberries and and one-man shows. There’s an a cappella Deco interior. Check out a different film cream, mango, tamarind and chile, opera in 24 personalities and then a postevery Friday, with Get Low on July 1, and piña colada—is La Michoacana apocalyptic dance opera. There are stories The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo on July de Paquime. The paletería sells other about kids who make model airplanes and 8, The Girl Who Played With Fire on July foodstuffs, too, but it’s the popsicles women who dream of George Clooney. 15, The Girl Who Kicked the Hornet’s Nest that make this place pop. Plus, it’s open There are world folktales and gospel music. on July 22 and Inside Job on July 29. All late. Go with your Spanish in tow and Basically, there’s something for all of you. films start at 8 p.m., and tickets are $10. the heat radiating from your pores And then there are workshops. Individual Get them at the door or in advance at ready to be quenched. 6500 Zuni SE, shows and workshops are $10, or you 505.768.3544 or www.holdmyticket.com. 505.266.3408. can get a festival pass for a mere $35. Get reservations by calling 917.449.9519 The old Bob’s Fish and Chips place or e-mailing solofest2011reservations@ on Central is getting a redesign. Wood gmail.com, or buy tickets online at www. floors, a mahogany bar, banquettes brownpapertickets.com. For descriptions of | Executive Chef Claus Hjortkjaer and two covered patios—these are the shows and all other pertinent information, markings of Holy Cow, a burger joint visit www.fillingstationabq.com. 1024 Brasserie La Provence, that fabulous that’s more than a burger joint. The Fourth Street SW. French restaurant perched on the gateway eatery opens in early July, and its menu to Nob Hill (with the best darn truffle will focus on an array of unique burgers, Santa Fe usually gets all the credit for fries in existence), is changing hands. market-fresh chopped salads with houseartistic prowess, despite the fact that Although the transfer of ownership made dressings, sandwiches, sides, shakes Albuquerque’s also busting with rightisn’t official yet, Steve Paternoster has and desserts. Oh, and beer and wine. And brain beautifications. But according to an agreement to sell La Provence to here’s a happy note: All items will be | The Luna Mansion AmericanStyle Magazine, Burque’s got Executive Chef Claus Hjortkjaer, Linda $10 or less. The restaurant will be open some of the best art in the country. In its Hjortkjaer (both formerly of Le Café The Luna Mansion is one of New seven days a week, with lunch and dinner “Top 25 Art Destinations: Big Cities” Miche Bistro) and Caryl Cochran, and Mexico’s eeriest and loveliest treasures. service every day and breakfast added breakdown, Albuquerque’s listed as the trio are managing the place now. Built in Los Lunas is 1881, it was on the weekends. There’s no website yet, number six, coming in behind New York Cochran says they hope the transfer constructed by the Santa Fe Railway in but you can find out more by calling and Chicago but beating out Los Angeles, will be official this fall. The restaurant exchange for passage through the Luna505.242.2291. Go welcome Holy Cow to Portland, San Diego and Atlanta. Makes you know and love will stay mostly the Otero land-grant holding. But that may the neighborhood. We can’t wait to try it you look at all those giant pots on I-40 a same, but the new owners plan to add be more history than you want. All you out. 700 Central SE. little differently, doesn’t it? a few perks, like the cooking classes really need to know is this: The Victorian Claus is kicking off Tuesday, July 12. mansion has been preserved, and now it For $40, learn how to make vichyssoise also operates as a steakhouse. Last month, with applewood-smoked bacon and fresh the steakhouse started Party on the Patio by Patty Karlovitz firstname.lastname@example.org chives, cordon bleu and crème brûlée. Fridays every week from 4 to 8:30 p.m. Class starts at 6 p.m. (3001 Central NE, You get live music from Keith Sanchez 505.254.7644). For more information, (of Stoic Frame), cocktails and alfresco visit www.laprovencenobhill.com. dining on a brand-new, spectacular patio. Now that’s a happy hour. 110 W. Main Hey, it’s the Fourth of July! Don’t be one Street, Los Lunas, 505.865.7333, www. of those irresponsible people who start lunamansion.com. fires by trying to do the whole firework thing at home. This is not the year. Instead, get your firework fix at Balloon Fiesta Park (4401 Alameda NE), where festivities will be going from 3 to 10 | Pastry chef Darci Rochau p.m., with live music, fry bread (and lots of other kinds of food), activities And while we’re talking about local for children like face painting and fun Summer days in Albuquerque can be recognition, I want to give a little shoutjumps, and a whole lot of grass to play out to Hyatt Regency Tamaya pastry chef sweltering, especially before the monsoon on. You can park at the park for $10, or season hits. But those hot, sun-baked days | Chef Tom Kerpon Darci Rochau, who won a competition you can go the Park & Ride route for $1 lead to absolutely perfect summer nights. on The Food Network Challenge. After Entrepreneur Armand Ortega (he owns or less. For all the details, visit www.cabq. One of the best ways to celebrate those taking home second place in the 2010 gov/events. sultry evenings is at one of Albuquerque’s that very sweet corner building on New Mexico Museum of Natural History the Plaza that housed the sleepy little best festivals—Nob Hill’s Summerfest. Foundation’s Chocolate Fantasy contest, Ore House for years) is suddenly the Dance, opera, storytelling, musical On Saturday, July 23, from 2 to 10:30 Rochau and her husband were contacted composition and traditional theater— p.m., Central will be blocked off to traffic talk of the town. He chose one of my by The Food Network and asked to go favorite people, Chef Tom Kerpon (the that’s what The Filling Station’s from Girard to Washington, turning all on the show. The challenge? Create a former executive chef of Rio Chama SOLOFEST has to offer this year. From chocolate sculpture in an Old West theme of Nob Hill into one pedestrian-friendly Steakhouse), to launch an exciting new Friday, July 8, through Sunday, July 17, in less than eight hours. The couple crafted mega-zone. Stores and restaurants stay restaurant that’s right in the heart of the performers from Albuquerque, Santa open late with great specials, live bands Plaza. Tom has always had a sixth sense play all over the place, and vendors and about what Santa Feans love to eat when artists take to the streets. The best part?
Photo: Gabriella Marks
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they’re out having fun, and this new place, with the absolute best views in town, has “good times” written all over it. For the remainder of the summer, Balconies on the Plaza will feature some of the dishes and flavors that have become Tom’s signature, like Slow-Cooked Baby Back Ribs, Blue Corn–Dusted Ruby Trout and Chicken and Mango Quesadillas. Come November, Balconies will close for a top-to-bottom renovation before reopening again in the spring. The new concept is under wraps for now, but this summer we’re perfectly content to sit with a Balconies Margarita in hand and watch the world pass by in the heart of Old Santa Fe. And more good news in the just opened department: The Whole Hog Café left their Cerrillos Road location to set up shop at 320 South Guadalupe right across from the Cowgirl. They brought along their World Champion BBQ trophies, all seven of their signature sauces (including the Volcano, available at the counter only), specialty dishes like the Ultimate Hog Platter and plenty of paper towels. Inside, the décor is pretty bare bones but it’s the bones you gnaw on that keeps you coming back. 505.474.3375. The annual Santa Fe Wine Festival, which celebrates the unique wines of New Mexico, will be held at El Rancho de las Golondrinas on July 2 and 3, from noon to 6 p.m. The “Ranch of the Swallows” was a day’s journey from Santa Fe when it was founded in 1710, and now it is the ideal place to celebrate our state’s tradition of winemaking. Shaded by towering cottonwoods, with over a dozen historic buildings and sites tucked amongst its green acres, it features costumed docents who preserve the daily life and traditions of another century. Seventeen of our state’s finest wineries will be at the festival to offer tastings of their wines and give you the chance to meet with them personally. Wine can be purchased by the glass, bottle and case. The celebration also includes beautiful arts and crafts booths, live music to set you dancing and food, food, food. See their website for complete details: www. golondrinas.org. The positively fearless Aspen Santa Fe Ballet returns home this month to present a program of pioneering contemporary ballet. On July 8 and 9 they unveil a newly commissioned work by the acclaimed Jorma Elo, “Kiss Me Goodnight” from the Catalonian choreographer Cayetano Soto, and a performance of Jiří Kylián’s iconic piece, “Stamping Ground.” Karen Campbell of The Boston Globe called the performance, “Stark, sleek, and chockfull of moves that skirt the edges of contemporary movement.” The Aspen Santa Fe Ballet which celebrates its 15th anniversary season is surely one of our
city’s greatest treasures.Tickets at www. aspensantafeballet. And more dance delights: The New Mexico Dance Coalition presents its annual mid-summer celebration on the Plaza on Saturday, July 23 from 1p.m. to 3 p.m. The Mono Mundo World Dance Festival is a wonderfully diverse afternoon of dance featuring the talents of over a dozen local troupes and studios. The festival is free and open to the public. Thousands of visitors, all of whom possess a deep appreciation for traditional folk art will be coming into our city for the International Folk Art Market, held this year on July 8, 9 and 10. On July 7, The Museum of Spanish Colonial Art is sponsoring a self-guided studio tour of some of our own most acclaimed folk artists where visitors and locals will have the opportunity to see first-hand how the traditional arts of New Mexico have been handed down through the generations. The participating artists are all veterans of the Traditional Spanish Market (held this year on the Plaza the weekend of July 30 and 31). The studio tour is selfguided, and a map of the locations and artist information can be found at www. spanishcolonial.org. Chef Andrew McLauchlan and Blyth Timken, owners of Real Food Nation have a real hit on their hands! Last month they opened their little jewel of a supper club in the building adjacent to the Eldorado landmark that serves as the more casual side of their enterprise. The new space serves beer and wine (biodynamically produced, of course) to pair with their lovely entrees. The focus on farm to table remains true here and Chef Kim Müeller’s fine dining experience is allowed to shine. 505.466.2440.
| New York Deli Jeffrey and Ramona Schwartzberg won our hearts when they danced across our February cover to celebrate the opening of their very popular New York Deli Upper East Side. Now it’s their new patio that’s making the news. They call it “a taste of Central Park” complete with a charming footbridge, lush fountain and recirculating
stream surrounding you with the gentle sound of water. and lush green plantings. A little picnic in Central Park—now that’s romantic. The New York Deli is at 420 Catron Street, but the bagels are Big Apple. Congratulations to WearAbouts, the go-to place for fashionistas who love casual clothes with a fun feel and bohemian flair. The Marcy Street favorite celebrated their 25th anniversary this month—a mighty feat for any business but remarkable in the fashion business. Kudos to owner Megan Hawkins and her wonderful staff! Much has changed in the five years since the Tree House opened its doors, but café owner (and buttercream ninja) Maria Elena BustamanteBernal tells us she’s as committed as ever to the Tree House vision: serving up all organic, locally-sourced breakfast and lunch along with her delightful desserts. And that’s worth celebrating. Sing out a “Happy Birthday” to Maria and her crew at their friendly café in the Lena Street Lofts just off Second Street. It’s the sweetest local spot around. The 20-year process of shaping the form and content of the Santa Fe Railyard was laboriously slow, and, like democracy itself, it often brought out the cantankerous and sometimes downright contentious sides of citizens. But today the revamped Railyard is a reality, a golden thread in the fabric of our daily lives. And we are not the only ones who are impressed by what we have accomplished. The Santa Fe Railyard Community Corporation and the Railyard Stewards are pleased to announce the selection of the Railyard Project as a Silver Medal recipient of the Rudy Bruner Award for Urban Excellence. According to the presenters of this prestigious national award, our “project reflects participation across a wide spectrum of community interests that came together to create a beautiful, resourceful and creative urban solution that serves the future of their neighborhood and city.” Stand up and take a bow, citizens of Santa Fe; this is what it means to create a true community. The Trades and Advanced Technologies Center at the Santa Fe Community College plays a critical role in our community’s drive to develop a trained workforce in sustainable green technologies and establish community partnerships for green jobs. On July 29 they
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
are hosting a Green Gala with local summertime food, great live music by local performers and a breath-defying circus performance from Wise Fool New Mexico. It’s a great excuse to just have fun and hang out with like-minded folks, take a peek at green technology in action and join the applause as green leaders are awarded for their contributions. Call the GROW Foundation at 505.428.1704 for ticket information. Our story last month on the Santa Fe Search and Rescue Group received a lot of comment from readers—and yes, we do plan on doing more stories in the future on the people who enrich our community through their volunteerism. We’d also like to give you an additional website to go to if you want more information on Search and Rescue in New Mexico: www.nmsarc.org.
by Patty email@example.com El Monte Sagrado welcomed a new chef aboard at their lovely De La Tierra dining room this month. The French-born and -trained Chef Henry Chaperont has been at the helm of prestigious restaurants worldwide and also owned his own restaurant, La Petite Maison, in Colorado Springs. Chaperont’s menu will be locally inspired, but you can count on him bringing a very cosmopolitan flair to everything he does.
| Chef Henry Chaperont Taos will once again come alive with the sound of music as the Taos School of Music presents its 49th annual Chamber Music Festival, June 19 through August 7. Localflavor has done several stories on the school over the years and continues to be one of its biggest fans. The school, which accepts only 19 students each summer, is among the oldest of its kind in the nation, says director Kathleen Knox. One of the most endearing aspects is that the public is welcome to dine with the students and faculty prior to the programs which are held at the Hotel St. Bernard. For information, visit www.taosschoolofmusic.com or call 575.776.2388. . J U LY 2 0 1 1
Women’s designer fashion “Wonderful hotel, Superlative service.” - Tripadvisor, June 2011 “Matt Ostrander’s cuisine is a religious experience.” - Luminaria guest
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Located in the historic El TorrEon HaciEnda, 1017 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (1.2 milEs norTH of THE Taos Plaza) 575.751.3337 | Hours: Mon-Sat 5:30pm-9:30pm | www.elmeze.com
Condé Nast Traveler’s #25 Top Hotel Spa in the U.S
211 Old Santa Fe Trail 505-988-5531 www.innatloretto.com
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061911 iota lfjuly.pdf
Anasazi Days Of Summer C
Al Fresco Beverages, Dining and Enjoyment All Summer Long Anasazi Bar, Restaurant & Patio Executive Chef Oliver Ridgeway
113 Washington Avenue / Santa Fe, NM 87501 / (505) 988-3030 Innof theAnasazi.com
No matter where you go, blue goes with you. With a BlueDirect® Plan from Blue Cross and Blue Shield of New Mexico, you can get coverage that travels with you and access to the most doctors of any plan in the state.* If you buy your own health insurance, contact your broker or contact us at 1-866-427-7492 or bcbsnm.com/bluedirect.
What: Resource Center Where: St. Elizabeth Shelter When: Tuesdays and Fridays Why: To serve more than 12,000 meals every year to Santa Fe’s homeless men, women and children.
*Based on Strenuus® Report New Mexico Competitor Data, Provider Counts, as of April 2010, comparing statewide contracted network totals for providers.
Experience. Wellness. Everywhere.® A Division of Health Care Service Corporation, a Mutual Legal Reserve Company, an Independent Licensee of the Blue Cross and Blue Shield Association.
Building Futures • Changing Lives www.steshelter.org
You, too, can volunteer to join our fabulous twiceweekly lunch team. Just call Susan at 505-982-6611.
Compliments of localflavor magazine
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Loveand La bohème
| Ana Maria as Donna Elvira in the 2004 production of Don Giovanni. Mariusz Kwiecien as Don Giovanni.
Photo: Tom Specht
As an operatic soprano, Ana María Martínez gets that thrill over and over, time and time again. She specializes in the romantic female leads of Puccini, Verdi, Mozart, and Rossini—an array of women who take chance after chance on love--quickly, tempestuously, tragically, comically, fatefully, faithfully, joyfully, hopefully or bitterly. It’s Martínez’s job to mix music, voice and dramatic projection to make each one not only compelling but vividly alive. “We change throughout our lives, in love,” Martínez said in a recent interview at The Santa Fe Opera, where she sings Mimi in Puccini’s La bohème this summer. “We enter different areas of development throughout our lives.” She added, with a smile, “Opera love changes, too.” In her 15 years of professional singing, Martínez has sung “at least ten bohème productions.” That means many individual performances as the hapless Parisian seamstress, Mimi, who falls headlong in love with the ardent poet, Rodolfo. They have a short, happy time together until fate, and her tuberculosis, cuts the golden string short. How does Martínez approach each new traversal of the part? “There is a constant [musical] foundation that Puccini lays down for you,” she pointed out, which can be depended on in production to production. “But then you have to see who your colleagues are and look for chemistry and connection. That will always be different. Of course, the director is going to give you different ideas, the conductor too. I think it’s wonderful; you’re never going to be old or tired in a part. It’s always new.” SFO’s La bohème this season is a remounting of the original 2007 production. Director Paul Curran returns to oversee the opera; the conductor is Leonardo Vordoni. Heidi Stober sings the courtesan Musetta, and the raucous quartet of bohemians consists of David Lomeli as Rodolfo, Corey McKern as Marcello, Keith Phares as Schaunard and Christian Van Horn as Colline. Puccini based the opera, which premiered in 1896, on Henri Murger’s 1851 novel, Scènes de la vie de bohème. “There is a real arc and fall of a relationship throughout the opera,” Martínez said, “about how complicated all relationships are. This isn’t about idealized romance. It’s about real life. You have a mirror of fiction and reality going on.”
p h o t o s b y K AT E R U S S E L L
Photo: Scott Humbert
ost us know the eye-widening, throat-drying, heart-stopping, stomachclenching feeling that comes with the first glimpse of someone who could be “it”—the true love, or at least infatuation, of our life. We may feel it in other, more private places, too, since the response is as old as humankind. But no matter how often it hits, Cupid’s blissful arrow always feels new.
story by CRAIG SMITH
| Ana María Martínez
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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and La bohème Certainly Mimi, in her first appearance asking Rodolfo for a light for her candle, seems like thousands of women who deftly engage a young man with an initial innocent approach. But there is more under her bodice than a bosom: There’s a nervously beating heart. “I was talking with my Italian diction coach, Corradina Caporello—she was my diction coach at Juilliard, I’m one of her babies—about how many times in this opera she says she is sola (alone). In the first aria, she says it three times. He [Rodolfo] doesn’t have many friends; she doesn’t have many. She finally gets up the courage to talk with this young man she’s known about a long time, letting him know she is available.” But as often in opera, destiny takes a hand to help love along. As Mimi is leaving Rodolfo’s garret, candle now alight, she realizes she has lost the key to her room. A draft blows her candle out, Rodolfo extinguishes his and they search blindly for the key—leading to a touch of the hand and two of Puccini’s most glorious arias: the virile “Che gelida manina” for Rodolfo and the lustrous “Mi chiamano Mimi” for Mimi. “This is a lonely opera in many ways—the reality of poverty, reality of illness,” Martínez mused. “We meet those characters in those particular times, and a lot has happened. We don’t know where they come from. “I think Mimi is most likely an orphan brought up by her grandmother or an elderly lady. She is always uncertain of herself, searching for the courage to do what she wants to do. I think it came from not having a mother to guide her and tell her she was the best thing since chocolate!” Yet nobility is also a part of this complex girl. “Another thing Corradina discussed with us at Juilliard about bohème, was, ‘What makes Mimi a heroine?’ There was silence in the classroom. The answer is, she never, ever feels sorry for herself; none of the Puccini women ever feel sorry for themselves. “In the last act, Musetta finds her and brings her to the garret, and Mimi says, ‘I don’t want to die alone.’ But even when dying, she is not sorry for herself. If you look at the texts, he is the poet and he has beautiful lines, but when she has her lines, it is much more poignant. “I love to sing her. I love her. If I met Mimi, I’d love to be her friend. She would be someone I could trust, and I know I could always have a very real connection with her.” She added, “One thing I think is interesting to mention: I think it’s obvious Mimi and Musetta are, in many ways, the two sides of one woman. I think that’s why they do become such close friends.” To turn from serious talk for a moment, I asked Martínez how falling in love in operatic comedy is different from La bohème or a Simon Boccanegra or Turandot or even a Così fan tutte. “I think that is such a great question,” she said. “In comedy, we emphasize getting egg on our face, being silly, making people laugh. But there are some moments when you see what’s happening in the heart. I think it’s all going to be ultimately the same, with everyone afraid of the end [of love]. “In Moonstruck, Olympia Dukakis asks Cher, ‘Do you love him?’ ‘Oh yes, with all my heart,’ or something like that. And Dukakis goes, ‘Oy.’ It’s like, you’re going to suffer, honey, but you will also feel the deepest most wonderful emotions ever possible. Whether comedy, drama or tragedy, it’s all going to be deeply felt. “That’s why I think it’s a privilege to play Rosina [in Rossini’s The Barber of Seville] and the Contessa [in Mozart’s Le nozze di Figaro].” Both are the same person, but one is in the first flush of joyous love; the other, a few years older, is experiencing the poignancy of her husband being no longer an ardent lover but distant and dismissive. So Martínez works to put some of the young Rosina’s free spirits and sympathy into the melancholy Countess. When taking on an operatic woman, the soprano stressed, the differences have to do with each character, not the fact their music was written by a different composer. “What is a character’s personality, what are their traits, how do they perceive love, how do they try to make that story real? It has to do with life—how we were raised, our own psychology, our persona at the moment. And how they the character are looking at things.” Going back to Puccini, Martínez noted that, “a lot of Puccini’s women sacrifice themselves. Liu in Turandot—she loves the Prince, because one day in the palace he smiled at her. And then she always loved him. In classical China, she was a slave. She could never have something real with him. Ultimately, she gives the greatest sacrifice, her life. “A lot of Puccini’s women sacrifice themselves. I’ve done three Cio-Cio Sans [Madama 12
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Butterfly] now, and she does the ultimate sacrifice for her child. Mimi is destined to die, but she never wants to drag anyone down with her. Puccini loved his women, admired them, put them on a pedestal. He knew women!” Martínez concluded, “Love is a mystery. We can’t define it. You can look it up in the dictionary, but you won’t understand it until you feel it. Maybe not then. If someone from another planet came here and asked about love, how would you put it into words? It is always subjective, and as we change, it all changes.” | Standing, director Paul Curran, David Lomeli as Rudolfo and Heidi Stober as Musetta
The Santa Fe Opera 2011 Season | July 1-August 27 Gounod:Faust July 1, 6, 9, 15 August 1, 8, 15, 20, 24, 27 Puccini: La Boheme July 2, 8, 13, 22 August 2, 6, 10, 13, 16, 23, 26 Vivaldi: Griselda July 16, 20, 29 August 4, 9, 19 Menotti: The Last Savage July 23, 27 August 5, 11, 18, 25 Berg: Wozzeck July 30 August 3, 12, 17 The Opera is located on US 84/285 seven miles north of Santa Fe. Single tickets begin at $35; call the box office at 505-986-5900 for information or visit www. santafeopera.org. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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story by CHEF JOHNNY VEE
photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
verybody loves a “local guy/gal makes good in hometown” story. Here’s another one. Leo V. Varos, executive chef at the O’Keeffe Café was born and raised in Santa Fe and has worked at many of our foodie town’s top restaurants, including 315, Rio Chama, The Bull Ring, The Palace and Geronimo. Varos, with his French-inspired menu, is making his culinary mark on the food scene at this popular downtown eatery with the backing, support and assistance of
| Chef Johnny Vee
a relative newcomer to town (meaning he moved here less than 10 years ago), O’Keeffe proprietor Michael O’Reilly. Though their backgrounds and résumés differ wildly, the dynamic duo has come together with a common goal: to provide diners with a provocative dining experience that is a unique celebration of wines and cuisine. It is O’Reilly’s amazing wine knowledge and Varos’ measured comingup-through-the-ranks work history that give them their combined clout.
After enjoying an exquisite wine-fueled dinner on a wintry night last February, where an enthusiastic Varos waxed lyrical about a European trip he had just returned from, and later, watching O’Reilly develop as an entrepreneur, I knew I needed to sit down with these two and see just how and where oenophile and gastronome come together to succeed in their joint ambition. Over lunch on a balmy June afternoon, I meet the pair at the restaurant, which sides the renowned museum of the same name. Lunch is just finishing up—a hefty 70 covers, terrific for a pre-season Tuesday. O’Reilly, who also owns Pranzo in the Sanbusco Center, is in dress shorts and shirt, Varos in jeans and t-shirt. The differences continue: O’Reilly is in his mid-sixties, Varos in his late thirties. The chef offers me a variety of salads, and O’Reilly recommends a seared tuna salad (it was a great suggestion—the salad was delicious). I start by explaining to Varos that my rapport with O’Reilly goes back in history to the late ’70s when we worked together in New York. “Michael, I remember when we worked together at Greene Street Café, and you were a wine rep during the day,” I reminisce. “Good God, that was 33 years ago!” he laughs. “It was crazy. I had three young kids and worked two jobs. I flew out to California to interview
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with the Robert Mondavi company and took the red-eye flight back to New York and was supposed to work a night shift. I think I quit that very night. I became a rep for them in 1981 and covered New York and New Jersey. Mondavi made my career. They had such an amazing encyclopedia of wines; I traveled all over the world with him and his wife, Margrit. By 1988 I was the head of their international sales team and did that for 10 years.” I ask him to remind me how he ended up in Santa Fe. “My wife and I had visited here many times, and I knew how famous Santa Fe was for their restaurants and wine devotees. I had worked with Walter Burke, the original owner of the O’Keeffe, years ago and heard that he was selling the restaurant. At that time it was only open for lunch. I bought it in 2002, and we expanded to include dinner. Three years later I bought Pranzo. I think of O’Keeffe as more wine-centric and gourmet, while Pranzo is more of a casual family restaurant.” Since we are already on the topic, I quiz O’Reilly on his vast knowledge of the grape. Varos listens intently. “I had a huge expense account in those days that allowed me to drink the most fantastic wines in the world,” O’Reilly continues with fond memory. “I would eat at three-star restaurants in France with the Mondavis. Of course Robert would order a special expensive bottle of wine, and the chef would come out to see who it was that was drinking it. I remember a particular meal in a place called L’Esperance in Burgundy. At 10 o’clock, after an eight- or nine-course meal, the chef, Marc Meneau, came out all covered with sweat to ask how we liked our meal. I was so spoiled.” “So your expertise in the world of wines really comes from those days?” I ask. “Yes. When I first got the job with them I got a book on wines. I read it every chance I got while traveling. Then, of course, having the opportunity to drink all those unbelievable
bottles really added to my knowledge. It is a real challenge to find wine staffing here in New Mexico. I would tell any young professional that the way to pursue a career in the wine world would be to spend one year studying and sampling wine from a specific region, 50,60,70 bottles--and spend 10 years doing it. Then you are ready.” One look at the incredibly enormous and comprehensive wine list at the restaurant is testimony to connoisseur O’Reilly’s knowledge and experience. It’s clear he enjoys drinking from his own inventory. The pairings for a wine dinner the next week included 13 Rieslings from around the world. It is interesting to watch Varos listen to the wine master. Now it is his turn to unveil how he got to where he is today. “My first introduction to great food was from my grandmother who was the chef at a restaurant in Taos called Doña Luz,” Varos begins. “She always brought wonderful food home. After high school I started to study social anthropology at New Mexico State, but I didn’t really take to it.” (I comment that Mark Miller, founder of Coyote Café, and James Campbell Caruso, from La Boca, both pursued the same curriculum.) Varos continues, “I headed off to Alaska and tried my hand as a fisherman, then lumberjack, but kept getting drawn back to cooking. After a trip to Spain, which was very eye-opening to me, I came back to Santa Fe and did an apprenticeship at La Fonda with Maurice Zeck. From there I worked with other great local chefs—DiStefano, Moskow, Rios—and then finally with Laurent Rhea, who I took over from here at O’Keeffe.” “Tell me about your trip this past winter,” I say. Varos lights up. “It was really the peak of my culinary journey, an absolute high point. I traveled all over Europe—Germany, Switzerland, France, and Italy—but it was the rolling hills of Epernay, in the Champagne region, that really inspired me. My favorite wine is Champagne. I absolutely love it. I love its versatility. In Hauteville, at the Dom Pérignon vineyard, I knelt at the altar in the church and realized Dom was buried right under where I knelt. It was so amazing. Although I’m not even Catholic, it made me feel like it was enough to just believe in something.”
Varos’ sincerity is touching. He pulls out a bag full of the metal caps that cover Champagne corks and lists the name of the bubbly each one tops. There are almost two dozen. He scatters them on the table with pride. “These are all the Champagnes I had on my trip,” he says. “My favorite is unavailable in the USA; it’s called J. Caster. The wonderful thing about Champagne is it that it is drunk in times of happiness or sorrow—at weddings and funerals. One of my early jobs was cooking at Rancho Encantado when Betty Egan still owned it. There was always Champagne drinking at the ranch in the afternoons. It was where I first tasted it. I love what it does to people; it makes everyone happy.” The inspiration Varos gained while on his travels is evident all over the menu. Seared Sweetbreads are served on a Fuji Apple Tart with Black Currant Demi Glaze. Braised Oxtail is bundled in strudel pastry, while salmon is crusted with pink peppercorns and napped with beurre blanc. A boneless chicken breast is stuffed with mushroom duxelles and sun-dried tomatoes and set afloat in a rich herb broth. This homegrown chef has clearly left his Norteño roots behind. On the topic of wine and food pairing, which is certainly a vital part of the O’Keeffe theme, I ask them about their favorite flavor pairings. “One of mine is swordfish with Pinot Noir, especially from the Russian River,” Michael says. “When I am planning a menu for a wine dinner, Michael and I sit down and sample the varietals we will be serving. I like to find the subtleness in the food so that it pleases our wine enthusiasts,” Varos adds. I ask both what their greatest business challenge is during the recession. They agree wholeheartedly on the answer. Varos starts, “Filling seats, absolutely. I have been focusing on keeping our menu economical. We have
| Executive chef Leo V. Varos and owner Michael O’Reilly
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a $37 prixe fixe menu, and I use a lot of braising, which allows me to use less pricey ingredients but still make tasty food.” O’Reilly concurs, “Getting butts on the seats without giving away the store. I see prixe fixe menus priced so low you know the restaurant isn’t making money.” Then I turn to some of their most memorable meals. Varos: “I had escargot in Paris and beef cheeks that were delicious. In Belgium I had dried mullet. Unbelievable. In Santa Fe my favorite dinners have been improvisational meals where Eric DiStefano just cooked for us with dishes not on the printed menu.” O’Reilly: “At a little Italian place in Florence I had pasta that was so fine. The place is called Enoteca Pinchiorri, and it’s owned by an Italian and his French wife— just wonderful. Also locally I have had three fantastic meals prepared by Martìn Rios.” For fun, I ask the guys to think what their request for a last meal before going to the gallows would be. Varos: “I would have to turn to my New Mexican roots. I would want chile rellenos with green and red chile and a bottle of Rose Dom Pérignon.” O’Reilly: “Hmm. Three pasta courses from that restaurant in Florence, a bottle of Kistler Chardonnay and a bottle of Sea Smoke Ten Pinot Noir. When I ask each what their favorite ingredient is, the answers could not be more dissimilar. O’Reilly loves caviar and remembers a party he attended in Munich years ago that boasted a band flown in from Rio and 20 pounds of Beluga caviar on the buffet. Varos prefers shallots and says he couldn’t cook with out them. Despite coming from different worlds, eras and curricula vitarum, the common ground of knowing the joys of raising a glass to the world of hospitality is clearly the secret to this partnership. I’ll drink to that. JV
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12th St. & Menaul inside the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center 505-724-3510 | IndianPueblo.com
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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LAURA SHEPPHERD Salon de Couture
Beautiful Textiles for Jackets, Shawls and Handbags
Exquisite Jewelry by Masha Archer Belle Jewelry
FROM A RING TO A NECKLACE
65 W. Marcy Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501 / 505 986.1444 www.laurasheppherd.com
What Women Want A Fun & Feminine Place to Shop
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Full Bloom Boutique Open 7 Days • 505-988-9648 70 W Marcy St, Santa Fe
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On the Plaza · 66 E San Francisco Street Santa Fe, NM 87501 · 505.660.8614 www.charlotteshop.com
story by GAIL SNYDER
photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
t’s no secret that present-day Marcy Street evolved from residential origins. Lined with majestic trees, wide sidewalks and gracious homes with welcoming front porches, it’s clearly a neighborhood. A block from the Plaza, Marcy Street is anchored on the east by a park celebrating painter Tommy Macione, local everyman of creativity, and on the west by the newly renovated convention center. Among shops, galleries, restaurants and a view of the Cross of the Martyrs are such staples as the public library, two local newspaper offices, City Hall, banks and law offices. It’s a vital, bustling neighborhood with lively foot traffic. Case in point: One summer’s afternoon a line of young girls in Girls Inc. t-shirts headed back to day camp passing a group of teenagers from Minnesota, exuberant in their balloon hats from the Plaza. Il Piatto’s owner/chef, Matt Yohalem, calls Marcy Street “a taste of SoHo in the heart of Santa Fe.” Business over the weekends is usually brisk, he says; Mondays bring back to work City Hall folks and other locals, “who fan out to patronize all the area businesses right outside their offices.” Merchants, chefs and shopkeepers patronize and support each other. And, as a result, says Matt, “we’ve built a local, sustainable micro-economy. It works!”
| Back row: Thea Light, Verve Gallery; Jose Rodriguez, Ilana Blankman, James Campbell Caruso, La Boca; Brent Jung, Izmi Sushi; Adam Johnson, Free Market Insurance Agency; Pat Silvers, Il Piatto; Matt Yohalem, Laura Sheppherd Salon; Shauna Powell, Full Bloom. Middle row: Jennifer Schlesinger, Wilson Scanlan,Verve Gallery; Gabriela Rivera, Susan LaPointe, Laura Metzger Back at the Ranch; Ansley DeDomenico, Dedo’s FroYo; Heather Bearinger, One Artist Road; Eliza Wheeler, Toyopolis; Megan “Gem” Hawkins, WearAbouts. Front row: Alan Konecny, One Artist Road; Larry Keller, design warehouse
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101 West Marcy Street 505.988.1555 www.designwarehousesantafe.com The lure to let your inner child out to play in Design Warehouse is irresistible. “How do you create joy in a house?” asks owner Larry Keller. The answers are everywhere you look in this playhouse of a store: suave, sophisticated furniture; ingenious kitchenware items; whimsically clever lamps. There’s nowhere else like it. Larry opened 30 years ago this November. “I want to show people the beauty in the utilitarian. And really,” he confides, “good retail is a part of the entertainment industry.” He gestures to the current window installation: the Puppy, à la Jeff Koons, constructed from 996 red balls by local artist Brian Chen (you may remember his December window display Gaga for the Holiday!, the iconic Lady made of straws). “So few cities have vital downtowns any more.” Enthusing about its explosion of new first class restaurants, galleries and shops, Larry’s excited about Marcy Street’s transformation. “We think we’re Santa Fe’s mecca!”
66 West Marcy Street 505.988.8994 Toyopolis is its own magical kingdom. “We’re a little oasis where kids can have fun, shop or just explore,” says owner Jennifer Forman. The relatively small space is a riot of fun and houses the full gamut of diversions, from Tinkertoy sets, Disgusting Science kits and everything Playmobil to My First Dollhouse, jacks and stuffed animal puppets galore. Open for more than ten years now, Toyopolis attracts repeat customers—kids and especially parents—along with the children of Indian, Spanish and Folk Art Market artisans who come in once a year while their parents are down on the Plaza managing the family booth. “Tourists are welcome and encouraged, too,” Jennifer says, “but we haven’t forgotten who pays the bills come January and February.” She’s always liked Marcy Street. “I get the feeling that all the stores here are run by mom-and-pops offering a quality shopping or special dining experience.” And that description certainly fits this toy store extraordinaire, as well.
105 East Marcy Street 505.424.1311 www.izmisantafe.com
“We’re the baby here,” says Brent Jung, chef/owner of this Asian cuisine restaurant. Izmi was previously located on St. Michael’s, and Brent worried that they’d lose their local clientele, but his customers followed him to Marcy Street. “James [Caruso of La Boca] has been great with any questions I have—I feel like part of the community here. I’m even planning to participate in the wine and chile tasting contest this year!” The new location, serving lunch and dinner accompanied by artisan Japanese sake, is sleek and classy, with elegant black wood tables, hardwood floors, high ceilings and windows facing the library grounds. Izmi is Japanese for “spring water.” Brent wanted a name connoting purity and cleanliness, as befits sushi, “and because a dragon lives in water,” he adds, “and I’m born in the Year of the Dragon.” With greater exposure now, “this is a lot more fun,” he says. “We have all kinds of different clientele here.” 22
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Corner of Lincoln Avenue and West Marcy Street 505.983.6603 www.rougecat.com Santa Fe’s newest lounge club (“spirits, bites, wine & dance”), Rouge Cat just celebrated its one-year anniversary and the party was a smashing hit. The street-level bar, wide open and spacious, with its leopard skin carpet, hip leather couches and intimate grouping of cocktail tables-for-two resembling glass-topped bongo drums, is truly glam. Downstairs is an additional bar and the big dance floor, where DJ Oona spins classic trash disco every Wednesday and Saturday. It’s DJ Jojo for Freedom Fridays, and Thursdays feature a revolving list of best local talent. Gay- and everybody else–friendly, Rouge Cat attracts an evening crowd mix of Downtown workers and tourists alike. After dinner or after hours, Santa Fe’s newest bar has already made a name for itself. “Rouge Cat is part of the new energy on the street!” says owner/manager (“and cleaning crew!”) Heidi Spar. “I think the really groovy local business owners are glad we’re here!”
72 West Marcy Street 505.982.3433 www.labocasf.com Swing open the Dutch door beside the window box of red, white and green flowers, and you’ve entered chef/owner James Caruso’s universally acclaimed domain. La Boca, featuring tapas and other Spanish dishes, has won fans as prestigious as The New York Times, whose reviewer gave it four out of four stars, saying, “You’ll find yourself sharing tips on what to order—and even forkfuls of delicious eats—with strangers!” The waiter whistles cheerfully along with the music, allowing diners to linger lovingly over late lunch, commenting to each other, savoring. With regular menu items like canelones with lump crab, scallops and manchego cream; specials like smoked salmon with asparagus and Spanish goat cheese over mixed greens; and a daily chef ’s tasting (“tapas of the moment”), both locals and tourists keep coming back for more.
back at the ranch
209 East Marcy Street 505.982.8110 www.BackattheRanch.com Back at the Ranch houses roomful after roomful of the most unique cowboy boots you’ve ever seen, all handmade. And they’ll custom make anything. “It’s fun,” says manager Susan LaPointe. “We never have to say no; we say sure! We made this pair for a woman who grew up in New Mexico and wanted designs from vintage postcards. One woman brought in a picture of herself in 1965, wearing overalls and standing with her pet goat. We copied it, complete with real denim for her and pony-hair fur for Gertie!” They have customers from all over. “And our local clientele is great, very loyal.” They also love Marcy Street. “It’s a historic neighborhood that still has charm.” And it’s a friendly place, too. “We’re all outside watering our front gardens, saying hi to each other.” A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Verve Gallery of Photography 219 East Marcy Street 505.982.5009 www.vervegallery.com
Galleries, like people, have distinct personalities. Some are showy and flamboyant, overpowering the very work they claim to represent; others try to please too many people at once, never quite finding their niche. The owners of Verve Gallery choose quality photographers, national and international, whose work is guided by the heart, and then they provide a quietly elegant container for it. As a result, the photographs are allowed to breathe, and we, undistracted, can feel the full effect of their magic. One recent show featured a collection of exquisitely moving black-and-white photographs by a renowned Bulgarian photographer documenting the various ways his people were affected by the fall of communism. Each photograph, catching moments of unstaged illumination, is a stunning revelation of the soul’s yearning for freedom. Verve’s owners love the Marcy Street neighborhood. Partner Wilson Scanlan welcomes locals to come by. It’s the gallery with a verve-y squiggle door handle.
Full Bloom Boutique
70 West Marcy Street 505.988.9648 www.fullbloomboutique.com If you’ve ever fantasized about wandering through a wealthy woman’s ginormous walk-in closet, neatly crammed with the most alive and brilliantly sherbet-colored floaty dresses, slim shifts, lacy skirts, scarves, lots of cottons, silks and crisp white linens plus the most flirtatious flamenco dresses and parrot-colored Polynesian dresses, this is the place for you! And it’s all affordable! Of course, the collection shifts with the seasons, but right now, what a summertimeand-the-livin’-is-easy bonanza. The small shop is packed with shoppers sharing the excitement of discovery. A group of Texas ladies, trying on hats in the bureau mirror, coos and sighs as father and son beam at the son’s young wife trying on an embroidered gypsy dress. When she takes it to the counter, the ladies break out in a cheer. Shauna Powell opened her boutique a year and a half ago, and it’s truly in full bloom. Don’t miss the fun!
Laura Sheppherd Salon de Couture 65 West Marcy Street 505.986.1444 www.laurasheppherd.com Laura Sheppherd designed and made her first gown at age 14. A graduate of New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, she opened her Salon de Couture almost 10 years ago, creating designs inspired by the world’s diverse natural elegance “so that women of all sizes and shapes could literally ‘walk in beauty.’” Her designs are sumptuous. When she can’t find the perfect fabric, she makes it herself. Borrowing liberally from classic pieces of earlier centuries as well as the ‘20s, ‘30s and ‘40s, her clothing spans the spectrum from casual to cocktail to soiree. And Laura will custom design the bridal dress of your dreams.
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95 West Marcy Street 505.984.1091 www.ilpiattosantafe.com
Once upon a time (about 17 years ago), when Matt Yohalem was the chef for La Traviata, he sat on the patio one night after work drinking a beer. “The streets were bustling, alive, the restaurant was still full and the smell of Italian food filled the air. I felt like I was in SoHo and I told myself that one day, this place would be mine. And, several years later, it was.” Ah, Il Piatto. Wine tasting. Crisp linen tablecloths. Pumpkin ravioli with brown sage butter and pine nuts. Parmigiano potato gnocchi with arugula walnut pesto, ricotta, gremolata and fresh tomatoes. Italian conversation on your left. Recently, Matt recounts, a film crew closed the block for the shooting of Odd Thomas. “People came by to watch. I believe several got to participate. Local technicians were part of the crew, and they all ate in my restaurant. A lot of fun was had by all.”
Ecco Espresso and Gelato 106 East Marcy Street 505.986.9778 www.eccogelato.com At Ecco, you can sit outside on the sidewalk, people-watching, or inside at one of the small round soda shop tables to enjoy a sexy hot-pink dish of gelato with tiny matching spoon. Owner Matt Durkovich, who apprenticed himself to Italian experts, makes a fresh batch every morning, using milk from local natural dairy Rasband. Ecco’s sign says: “We do not use: powders, corn syrup, stabilizers, emulsifiers, preservatives, dry mixes or other such fake junk!” And the flavors! Chocolate hazelnut! Pistachio! Caramel rum raisin, a sort of Italian chocolate chip, and too many more to count, plus every fruit you’ve ever loved! Ecco also sells coffee drinks galore, tea, chai, root beer, milkshakes, floats and what salesperson Silvianne describes as “one of the best cups of coffee in town.” And they’re open late—till 10:00 Fridays and Saturdays, 9:30 the rest of the week—making Ecco the perfect hanging place for summer evenings.
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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DeDo’s FroYo Frozen Yogurt
101 W Marcy Street | 505.216.5012 Delicious! Delicious! Delicious! Fantastic yogurt and super friendly service. Make your own FroYo sundaes!
209 East Marcy Street
Marcy Street Card Shop
75 W Marcy Street | 505.982.5160 Sure they’ve got cards, but there is so much more—wrapping paper, novelty gifts, candy and even fresh fudge!
101 W Marcy Street | 505.988.3585 | www.mirastore.com Expect the unexpected. “Our attention span is short, and our interests are broad!” Women’s fashion and accessories, an eclectic mix of Latin American and Asian folk art and a cheerful assortment of home wares and oilcloth.
Onorato 145 Lincoln Avenue | 505.984.2008 Rest your head on a cloud of down, wrap yourself in soft sheets and enjoy comfortable, blissful sleep. At Onorato, the perfect bed is a dream come true! WearAbouts
70 W Marcy Street | 505.982.1399 www.wearaboutssantafe.com A savvy staff that’s been helping women find that perfect jean, or a whole new wardrobe, for the past 25 years. Send your husband and kids to Toyopolis—you might be here for a while.
Aaron Payne Gallery 213 E Marcy Street | 505.995.9779 Specializing in the work of twentieth-century American masters, with a focus on the American Modernists, the Stieglitz Group, American Abstract Artists and AfricanAmerican art. Addison Rowe Fine Art
229 E Marcy Street | 505.982.1533 www.addisonrowe.com Specializing in the sale and acquisition of nineteenth- and early twentieth-century American paintings. They pride themselves on locating and offering paintings that fit within each collector’s price range and interests.
One Artist Road
142 Lincoln Avenue | 505.989.5866 | www.oneartistroad. com Exhibiting emerging and established artists and offering paintings and sculpture ranging from realism to Abstract Expressionism.
La Posada The arT of ouTdoor dining
Windsor Betts Fine Art
143 Lincoln Avenue | 505.820.1234 www.windsorbetts.com The largest inventory of prominent contemporary and historic Southwestern fine art on the secondary market in Santa Fe. Museum art you can afford to own.
Estrellas Moroccan Spa 310 E Marcy Street | 505.995.0100 www.estrellasspa.com A haven of tranquil elegance amidst the vibrance of Santa Fe. Offering massages, facials, foot treatments and even henna tattoos. High Desert Healthcare & Massage
644 Paseo de Peralta | 505.984.8830 www.highdesertsantafe.com Leave the world behind and emerge nourished and restored in mind and body. Massage, acupuncture, Rolfing. Ahhh.
DATING J Pankey 24 x 36 inches Oil The Gallery Collection at La Posada
Kick Back and Enjoy
The Patio at La Posada
Hotels and Other Services Luxx Boutique Hotel
Breakfast - Lunch - Dinner
105 E Marcy Street | 505.988.5899
www.luxxhotel.com For a stylish stay in Santa Fe! Wonderful rooms, artistic designs with a contemporary feel.
Free Market Insurance
Adam Johnson 101 W Marcy Street | 505.920.7946 www.freemarketins.com Independent insurance agency serving Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Las Cruces and Roswell.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Manypleasures story by JAMES SELBY
uinn Stephenson, 32, loves a good bar— particularly if he owns it. He and partners Sara Chapman, Tori Mendes and Chef Eric DiStefano own fine restaurants with good bars in Santa Fe, namely Geronimo on Canyon Road and the Coyote Cafe and Rooftop Cantina downtown. Of late, they’ve reimagined the street-level space directly beneath the upscale Coyote into the Coyote Den, a lounge more Vegas than vigas. Moderne ebony couches and ottomans, low ivory marble tables, wavy sculpted wall panels and a sable colored granite bar bestow a swank, urban chutzpah. The Den represents a rebirth of a long idle storefront that has had several incarnations over 25 years: an ancillary bar to the main restaurant; later, the Coyote General Store, a retail outlet for Mark Miller (the original chef/owner) and his caboodle of cookbooks, posters and salsas; and, finally, Cottonwoods, a fits-and-starts breakfast and lunch spot. The location has been empty for a few years.
“We wanted to go against tradition,” says Quinn, who oversees beverage operations for the partnership, along with the Den, which shares a common entrance on West Water Street with the second-story Coyote. Instead of taking the stairway up to the café, customers step down into the Den’s cave-like, black-walled darkness, illuminated by candlelight and the flicker of a long flat-screened fireplace mounted behind the bar where, normally, you’d expect a mirror to hang. There is something smartly seductive about the Coyote Den. You can imagine yourself on the set of a contemporary production of Don Giovanni or in the deluxe pied-à-terre of James Bond. When asked if the partnership used an interior designer to outfit the Den, Quinn says, “We did it as a group, and it represents exactly the style I like: clean, sleek, simple lines.” Taking a moment on a Saturday before service, Quinn, in jeans and a t-shirt, dark hair slicked back, his suit for the evening draped over the back of a white sofa, speaks about specifics. “My father, Fred Begay, is a sculptor. Those are his buffalo behind the bar,” he notes, pointing out two basketball-sized marble pieces, their backs arched in quiet power. “The bar is unusual. It has a custom well built into the bar top, where we keep the Veuve Clicquot Champagne we serve by the glass and handmade infused juices and syrups, all on ice, right in front of the customer. The working area behind the bar was ergonomically designed by a bartender: me,” laughs Quinn. “Most bars aren’t. Everything is comfortably in reach. I can crank out a lot of drinks back there.” You can find him behind the bar on Friday and Saturday nights doing just that. The back of the bar—where, typically, bottles are displayed—was bare, with the exception of a lone Nambé vase with a flower. “Yes, the style is stark, the bottles out of sight. You really don’t need 18 tequilas. I use four,
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photos by GAELEN CASEY
More Vegas than vigas
and four bourbons, four vodkas, four gins, etc., but all top-shelf,” he says. He hands me a leather-bound menu, and when I open it, the two facing pages light up like a Kindle. It is the Den’s cocktail list. “We are a high-end lounge, serving hand-crafted, cutting-edge drinks,” Quinn evangelizes. “Some people might ask for a Jack [Daniel’s] and Coke, but when they see a list of this caliber, they want to go with it. They want a Capri Martini rimmed with balsamic vinegar reduction, garnished with a mozzarellatomato flower, or a dry ice martini we call the Den of Iniquity,” he says. “When the customer gets home from their vacation, will they remember a gin and tonic they had somewhere? No. But they won’t forget the Flaming Samurai we extinguish at their table!” (Flambé Saigon Cinnamon; douse with Mandarin Orange vodka; serve with blood orange. Hai!, indeed.) “A large part of the experience here is service,” continues Quinn. “We’ve hired beautiful cocktail waitresses, handsome bartenders, but more than that, we meet with our servers a lot to talk about how to give impeccable service. We’re a town of 70,000 people, and when it’s offseason we want to make sure locals as well as travelers come in not just once, but frequently. My ideal customer would have lunch at the Cantina, come into the Coyote Cafe that evening for a threecourse meal, a great bottle of wine and end their night in the Den with one of our signature cocktails.” With large windows that accordion open for fresh air and a view of the sidewalk scene, Coyote Den has an inviting street presence. While the décor screams for a baby grand, there is no live music, although on Thursday nights tunes are spun by local celebrity DJ Automatic. If they’re game, enthusiasts can watch sporting events on wide-screen TVs. The Den is strictly a lounge, with cocktails and wines either by the glass or by the bottle from the Coyote Cafe list. Bar snacks are set out in bowls, but none of DiStefano’s dishes are served. There’s a dress code (no tank tops, shorts, etc.), and security on weekends helps ensure it doesn’t become uncomfortably crowded in the intimate space. Let’s not skip over the wine list. Whenever wine professionals visit Santa Fe for the first time, invariably, after a day or two, they remark on the overall sophistication and proficiency of the wine directors in our market. As it happens, adobe is to New Mexico as sommeliers
| Quinn Stephenson A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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29 59 99 $
MOndAy, TueSdAy & WedneSdAy are to Santa Fe when it comes to trained wine stewards. There is an impressive number of wine experts here who have passed progressively difficult examinations in service, knowledge, and the identification of wines, resulting in an accredited first or second level sommelier degree. Quinn Stephenson is among this group of young lions. Both Geronimo and Coyote’s wine lists pitch toward New World rather than European, as the group deems appropriate with their menus, but any wine lover will be gladdened by their offerings. “Let me show you something special,” says Quinn, as he ushers me into a galley-sized area behind the bar. One long wall is lined with wooden wine racks and indented shelves holding bottles of rare spirits and glasses. The other wall has two windows looking out past the bar and into the lounge. At the end of this narrow room is an L-shaped upholstered bench. The feel is of a stretch limo. “This is our VIP room. If guests want a little quiet time or would like to pay a minimum for the evening, it’s theirs,” he says. “We’re already renting out the Den itself for private functions.” On the floor, servers busy themselves wiping away rings from surfaces left from glasses holding the previous evening’s libations, and the image of flames ignites on the fire screen. “There really isn’t another place like it in Santa Fe,” Quinn says, proudly. Toast your partner with a Señorita (Patron margarita with a layer of ambrosial salted lime foam), sip a nightcap called Gentleman’s Vice (a smoking infusion of Makers Mark poured tableside over a peach-sized globe of ice: a Manhattan à la Hogwarts), or people watch with a top-notch Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon in hand, loaded with blackberries, not unlike the young, jeans-clad Hollywood execs accompanied by damsels in their dresses, on the nearby settee. The scene is set for pleasures of many kinds. The Coyote Den is located at 132 West Water Street in Santa Fe. 505.983.1615. They’re open seven nights a week from 5:30 p.m. to close. www.coyotecafe.com.
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The MARCH/APRIL 2010
Mild to Wild
Locals read it. | morelandnm@ aol.com SANTA FE ~ A L B U Q U E R Q U E ~ TA O S
Tourists need it.
S a n t a F e - A l b u q u e rq u e - Ta o s
Read by over 70,000 savvy readers in Albuquerque Santa Fe Los Alamos & Taos
native now Tony Abeyta
Santa Fe | Albuquerque | Taos A Taste of Life in New Mexico
Santa Fe - Albuquerque - Taos A Taste of Life in New Mexico
JUNE 2011 Santa Fe ~ Albuquerque ~ Taos
Michelle Moreland | Santa Fe & Taos 505.699.7369 | morelandnm@ aol.com
Lynn Kaufman | Albuquerque | 505.417.8876 | lynn@ localflavormagazine.com
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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ancing in the audience at a Monster Paws show is kind of like being trapped inside a disco ball—in a good way. Ask the band members how they describe their music, and the answers you’ll get will be borderline transcendental. “Songs that are fun to play,” says guitarist and singer Nate Santa Maria. On the band’s Facebook page, its genre is listed as “sounds like yer winning something.” Push a little harder and Santa Maria and singer/keyboardist Isaac Kappy will divulge adjectives like “electro” and “dance-pop.” But really, their first, more nebulous descriptions do a better job at pinning down their sound. It’s just plain fun. And yes, it sounds like you’re winning. Shows often come with all the fireworks— multicolored laser lights, quirky hats (Santa Maria sometimes dons a fuzzy one that looks like a stuffed bear), techno beats that tickle your collarbone and even that aforementioned disco ball. This is happy music—with songs about summertime champagne bike rides and nostalgia for the glorious cocktail of poverty and youth—that makes the band and audience alike jump up and down with childlike abandon. All that jumping can be hazardous, though. At a springtime show at The Roxy Theatre in Los Angeles, Santa Maria jumped so zestfully that he sprained his ankle on stage—and kept jumping. Even outside the setting of a live show, Monster Paws have managed what few small, local bands can: They produced a smooth and professional-sounding album, which makes for a perfect road trip soundtrack. Kappy mixed and mastered the album, and Santa Maria helped produced it. The nine-song, self-titled LP (available for download on iTunes) was released 32
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in November of last year. Its CD release party was actually Monster Paws’ first show. That inaugural appearance sold out, and although the band’s only existed a short time, its history thus far has echoed the success of that first night. In fact, Monster Paws’ music is already finding its way onto television. The idea for the band formed in the summer of 2009, when Kappy launched a karaoke night at a local bar. Santa Maria showed up the first night and said he’d help. “It was kind of our singing practice,” he says. They’d known each other for years (they met when dating a pair of best friends) but had never played music together. After a few karaoke nights, “I said he should be in a band with me,” says Kappy. Along with third bandmate Mario J. Rivera, Monster Paws was formed. The name, by the way, was the residual murmur from one of Santa Maria’s dreams. He just woke up saying it. Kappy and Santa Maria (who are now roommates) write songs together. Their process is freeform— sometimes a song will start with a melody, sometimes a lyric. But in every song they write, their goal is to make it happy. “We wanted to make up songs that make you feel good,” says Kappy. “Music that you can smile to.” “And lyrics that you can cry to,” tacks on Santa Maria, laughing. The two didn’t set out with a theme for their first album. “We just said, Let’s do songs we really like,” Kappy says. “Let’s just make sure all the songs are awesome.” Although they went an untraditional route—making and releasing an album before playing any shows—they say it wasn’t part of any grand plan. “When you’re doing live shows, it cuts into your recording time,” says Kappy. “We wanted to have everything together.” Although Monster Paws is a new band, Santa Maria and Kappy are seasoned musicians, and both
Paws story by CHRISTIE CHISHOLM
photos by GAELEN CASEY
are classically trained. Santa Maria played classical guitar for ten years, and he’s been a member of another band, The Oktober People, for the last decade. Monster Paws is Kappy’s first band, but he started playing classical viola as a kid, performing in youth symphonies from age 12. He got a scholarship to the University of Arizona for his playing but tired of it at 19. He gave up his scholarship to return home to Albuquerque and go to the University of New Mexico. Well outside of symphony territory now, Kappy looks at home on stage with his wiry frame, signature ’fro and theatrical antics. That last bit makes sense, since Kappy’s day job is as an actor (with parts in Thor, Terminator Salvation and Fanboys, among others). Santa Maria remodels houses during the day with his brother (“It puts hair on your chest,” he jokes). Both would like to see Monster Paws become selfsustaining, and they’re working vigorously toward that goal. The two are now working on a second album, which they hope to release early this fall. And with two music videos under their belts, they’re planning on putting out two or three more this summer. The band’s music videos are also astoundingly glossy. Made with the help of a handful of friends in the film industry, “Champagne Bike Ride” (bit.ly/monsterbikeride) and “Ray of Light” (bit. ly/monsterlight), due perhaps in part to their professional feel, have racked up hefty views on YouTube. The former’s gathered more than 36,000 views. Monster Paws feels like it’s on the verge of something, and that’s a prediction supported by the fact that its music is now being used on a number of TV shows. “I got [our album] to a music supervisor for a production company,” Kappy says. “After that, now TV shows are contacting us independently.” So far Monster Paws music has been used on Real World: Las Vegas, Bad Girls Club and Khloe & Lamar, among others, and more high-profile placements are in the works (although the boys can’t give out any names yet).
| Nate Santa Maria and Isaac Kappy
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Wagon Mound Ranch Supply now lives in The Village Shops at Los Ranchos
6855 4th Street NW, all the way in the back! Offering you a great collection of “Western Lifestyle” items
photo and art: Naman Photography
• Through the month of July we’re offering 10% off on all Arbuckles’ products: Coffee, Mugs & Aprons! •
Right now Monster Paws is in Albuquerque, but the band is hoping to get on tour with an established act to work its way further into the business. “I want to be in front of thousands of people,” Kappy says. “The more people there are, the more comfortable I am.” Santa Maria agrees but focuses on a slightly different dream: “I want to wake up, get a cup of coffee and record.” Get In On the Monster Action! On Facebook: www.facebook.com/ monsterpaws. Website: www.monsterpawsmusic.com. Video: bit.ly/ monsterbikeride “Champagne Bike Ride,” bit.ly/monsterlight “Ray of Light”. 34
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Monday - Saturday 9:30 - 5:30 505-341-2489 www.wagonmound.com
Traditional Native American Dances
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Experience the award winning cuisine of four time Albuquerque “Best Chef”, Josh Gerwin at Casa Vieja Restaurant. Located in the heart of the Village of Corrales, and focused on locally farmed foods, and our nationally recognized cocktails and wine list can be enjoyed on our garden patio or from within our 300 year old adobe walls.
12th & Menaul | 505-843-7270 IndianPueblo.org
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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escribing Rulan Tangen in a measured sequence of words across a page feels as impossible as trying to gather a river in one’s arms. This isn’t just because of her impressive curricula vitae. Not just because Dance magazine listed her as one of the top 25 to watch in 2007, nor because she is the founder and director of the first primarily indigenous dance company in the country. It’s not just because she’s done choreography for Mel Gibson’s Apocalypto as well as the New Line Cinema production of New World, with Colin Farrell.
story by ANA JUNE p h o t o s b y K AT E R U S S E L L
And it’s not really because she’s a successful ballet dancer, actress, model, modern dancer, activist, teacher, choreographer, director and lecturer. Rather, it’s because this white space would best be filled with music and motion. With color and light and sound. If the intangible could be wrestled into tangibility and laid
h t r a E g n Danci
out on this page, you might begin to understand who Rulan Tangen truly is. Maybe. By her own admission, she wasn’t always so enigmatic. “When I was 11, I was listening to Ravel’s Bolero on the radio,” she says, then pauses for a fraction of a second before musing, “or maybe Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet....” There’s a hint of a question mark at the end of that sentence, but it quickly fades as she recalls that in that moment, she saw her whole life. “I could feel what it would be like to dance en pointe, what it would be like to be in that music, and I said, ‘I’m going to be a dancer.’” Laughing, she continues, “At the time I wasn’t physically active. I had glasses and hunched shoulders like this from reading and writing,” she tips her shoulders forward, maligning her perfect posture for an instant. “I was not physically a little ballerina.” Three years later, however, all that had changed. “I must have worked really hard, because by the time I was 14 I had earned a scholarship with Marin Ballet in California, which is a very respected school,” she concludes. When she was 16, after working tirelessly to complete high school early, Tangen moved to New York City by herself, her focus entirely on ballet. “I was getting myself into a very competitive realm,” she recalls, adding that in retrospect she might have been a little too young to make such a big move on her own. The decision fit in with the nomadic continuum of her life, however. Tangen’s mother was backpacking around Europe, doing what Tangen calls “hippying around in the era of counterculturalism” when Tangen was born. “I was born in England,” she says, “and from the time I was a baby, we moved about every 3 months.” From The U.K., Tangen and her mother returned to San Francisco, where her mother’s family lived, but they didn’t linger very long. The lure of a wandering path unfurled, taking them across the country, north to Canada and back again. This pattern repeated itself in Tangen’s adult life. “I traveled around, following work, finding interesting projects,” she says. While still living in New York, Tangen went out on the pow wow circuit to reconnect with her own indigenous roots through dance. “I wanted to do the fancy shawl dance,” she says. It was very lively, colorful, flashy! The shawls have lots of beautiful beadwork.” Tangen’s mentor on the circuit—a benevolent grandmother figure named Geraldine, who was giving Tangen direction and encouragement, listened to her lofty aspirations and said, “Okay, the dance that you have permission to bring into the pow wow circle is the Northern Plains traditional dance.” This dance, Tangen quickly demonstrates, comprises two moves: the first, a half knee bend. The second, undoing the half knee bend. Then repeat. Over and over, moving slowly across the floor. “And I was like, are you kidding me?” Tangen laughs. “There’s so much I can do!” “We have enough of the non-traditional dances,” the grandmother told her. “You need to do this.” Tangen pauses, smiles, continues. “So I said, well, if I’m going to do this then I can at least have a fancy cape or something.” But Geraldine said no. No beadwork, nothing fancy and nothing with any European influence. “She had me tan hide, and I learned how to make buckskin dresses,” Tangen remembers. “I made this beautiful gown and I was like, all right!” she says with a laugh, then shakes her head and adds that the grandmother then made her give it away. “She was trying to teach me to be humble, serve the community and learn skills she didn’t want to see lost,” Tangen explains, “and I think I’d given away four things I made, and after the last one she passed her name to me and brought me into the pow wow circle.” She reflects for a moment in silence. “It’s not how much enthusiasm you bring to it—that’s sometimes presumptuous. It’s what can you bring to this? How deeply do you carry it with you? Connect first with the basic rhythms, and if you get that you can expand on it.” A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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That’s exactly what Tangen did. She continued exploring dance, continued seeking out new and exciting projects. But despite her illuminating experience on the pow wow circuit, and her identity as an accomplished dancer, she still felt like something was missing. “I eventually realized that I wanted to find a center,” she says. “Because my mom was so nomadic and I wasn’t raised with my dad, I didn’t really have that.” What Tangen was looking for, she came to realize, was a home— both for herself, and her art. She found what she was looking for in Santa Fe. During a time between projects, she decided she’d come see the town and see what happened from there. Within minutes after getting off the bus at the hostel on Cerrillos Road and walking to the Plaza, Tangen found her center beginning to take shape. “I was just wandering, and this artist came over and started up a conversation,” she recalls. As it turned out, the artist was on his way to a dance class, so not having much else to do, Tangen went with him. Suddenly, a whole new world opened up. “The people at the dance studio asked if I wanted to go to Pojoaque the following day to help with a youth dance initiative,” she says, then laughs. “I was literally put to work the moment I got here!” Tangen did a lot of teaching and performing when she first arrived, and though she did some touring as well, she finally felt like she could start sinking roots. “I found my center here in Santa Fe,” she says with a smile. “I was just swept up into this place.” Fourteen years have passed since that day, and Tangen now lives in a second-floor studio apartment cradled in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristos. On bright afternoons, hot sunlight spills through the tall windows in her home. Cottonwood trees outside her living room make music in the afternoon breeze. From her futon sofa, you can look down on the backs of birds as they dart from tree to tree. Much has changed in Tangen’s life since her first footfalls in the City Different. In one corner of her home a delighted chaos of costumes spills to the floor. Tangen has just returned from traveling with Dancing Earth, the indigenous dance company she founded and directs, and now that the tour is over it’s time to wash and repack the colorful garments. “Look at this!” Tangen says brightly, dipping into the pile of fabric. She comes up with a delicate silk top that shines in shades of orange and gold. “This is the costume for the squash sister,” she says. The three sisters—corn, beans and squash—are crops that are traditionally planted together in Native American agriculture. Tangen smiles as she elaborates on the significance of these companion crops. “I asked a local indigenous farmer, Michael Diaz, about the three sisters and he told me that yes, it’s the way of traditional farming because it’s growing crops in 38
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harmony with each other, but of course now we call it permaculture.” Tangen choreographed a performance for Dancing Earth called Of Bodies Of Elements (OBOE) depicting and honoring the three sisters, as well as other cultural aspects of indigenous agriculture. “OBOE is a suite of dances about the three sisters that is also a native farming dance and a dance inspired by the practice of genetic modification and seed patenting as a metaphor for colonization,” Tangen explains. The company has been showcasing OBOE since the beginning of 2010, and has taken it around the country. The most memorable stop was Washington University, in St. Louis. “They had their first local farmers’ market on the campus because of the permaculture themes portrayed in our performance,” Tangen says with delight. “So we went and danced at the market to say thank you!” she continues, relishing the fact that the dance into which she and her company poured so much of their creative spirit had inspired a farmers’ market. “We were spreading the love around!” That Tangen is here to spread the love, that she was able to sow and nurture the growth of a successful dance company—the only specifically indigenous dance company in the country, as far as she knows— is in itself no less than miraculous. It is also, perhaps, due in part to the love she received from her Santa Fe community during the time of her greatest challenge. “I got very sick,” she explains carefully. “I had cancer, and I didn’t have any insurance….” She lets her words fall away before adding that her friends gathered around her, helping her as she struggled through surgery, chemo and radiation. At one point, she was so sick that the only way she could tell she was even alive anymore was that she knew she was breathing. “I remember telling myself, ‘Okay, if you’re breathing, you’re alive.’” She looks up and the smile slowly returns to her face. She pulled through, and a new chapter of her life was waiting for her. “I couldn’t dance anymore, not right away, so I had to choreograph other bodies,” she says. Some amazing young artists came into her life, and the vision of Dancing Earth —a dance company dedicated to expressing indigenous identity in a postcolonial world for the betterment of all peoples— began to take shape. “I got my first grant from the National Dance Projects, and we officially became a business in 2004,” she says in quick summary. As she speaks, she stands and walks over to a trapeze hanging from the ceiling in her living room. “This came with the house,” she says as she uses it to stretch. She has recovered now from her cancer, reclaimed her vitality. In this new chapter of her life, Tangen is choreographing performances that have been defined in the press by the most dynamic adjectives. Also, and perhaps most importantly, Rulan Tangen is dancing again. To learn more about Rulan Tangen and her dance company, go to www.dancingearth.org.
2011 SFO local flavor Faust HP:Layout 1
Soul or Sin? Choose.
HELLO SUNSHINE! It’s hot outside. Good thing The Spanish Table just got in some hand-made and hand-painted ceramic sangria pitchers. Did you know there are a variety of sangria recipes? Pick up a copy of Sangria: Fun & Festive Recipes and some tasty ingredients to make some tapas nibbles for your summer on the chaise lounge chair. CHORIZO-MAKING DEMONSTRATION Friday, July 29th at Noon at The Spanish Table with DIY sausage-maker Robert Fettig.
PAELLA DEMONSTRATION Saturday, July 30th at Noon
at The Spanish Table to celebrate Spanish Market and our nine year anniversary! Come watch us make a really big paella. Free to the public. Limited parking.
The Spanish Table
109 N Guadalupe, Santa Fe, NM
M on - Sat 10 am to 6 pm ; Sun 11 am to 5 pm (505) 986-0243
La Posada RockR esoRts sPa the aRt of R eLaxation After a Day of Appreciation Take in the The Art of Relaxation
PO S A D A
S A N TA FE
R E SO RT & S PA
JULY 1, 6, 9, 15; AUGUST 1, 8, 15, 20, 24, 27
An Unforgettable Evening of Devilish Entertainment! Faust is filled with romance, spectacle, ballet, magic, and an endless stream of irresistible melodies – including many you’ll recognize. Buy now for best seating availability.
Reservations 505-954-9630 • 866-331-ROCK (7625) 330 E. Palace Avenue, Santa Fe • laposadadesantafe.com Vail • aspen • BeaVer Creek • BreCkenridge • JaCkson Hole santa Fe • MiaMi • doMiniCan repuBliC • JaMaiCa • st. luCia
www.SantaFeOpera.org 505-986-5900 Enjoy video & audio highlights online.
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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PROTECTING NEW MEXICO’S NATURAL TREASURES
Home of the $99 boots
shirts $10 cowboy/cowgirl & skirts are back!
The Trust for Public Land is working to create a 570-acre refuge minutes from downtown Albuquerque. Plans for the Price’s Dairy land include an outdoor classroom and access to the Rio Grande Trail. The Trust for Public Land— conserving land for people in New Mexico since 1982.
Photo: Don Usner
Posa’s El Merendero Restaurants
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Only $25.99 (A $15.00 Savings) 1514 Rodeo Road | 820-7672 | Mon-Sat 7am-8pm Sun 8am-3pm 3538 Zafarano | 473-3454 | Mon-Sat 7am-9pm Sun 8am-8pm www.santafetamales.com
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One coupon per person, per order. Cannot be used with any other discounts or promotion. Must present coupon when ordering. Excludes tamale or catering purchases. Expires 7/31/11
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Any catering order of $45 or more.
One coupon per catering order. Cannot be used with any other discounts or promotion. Must present coupon when ordering. Expires 7/31/11
345 W. Manhattan Avenue at Guadalupe 505-984-1256 | Across from the Train Depot | Free Parking email@example.com | www.kowboyz.com
Southside Tuesdays 3-6 pm near Regal Theatres Cerrillos at Zafarano
Thursday 3-7 pm Cook with the Chef
5:30-6:30 in the railyard
Saturday & Tuesdays 7 am - 12 noon in the railyard
New Mexico Artisans Market Sundays in the railyard 10 am - 4 pm WIC & EBT accepted
To learn more about TPL’s work around the state, visit tpl.org/NewMexico.
A taste of
Spain s t o r y b y E L I Z A B E T H TA N N E N
photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
hen you step through the doorway and enter the Spanish Table--the mecca of Spanish delicacies and kitchen wares on North Guadalupe Street in downtown Santa Fe--you feel as if you’ve actually crossed the border into Spain and will be asked for your passport any moment. From colorful tagine pots to paella pans whose circumference rivals that of a queen-sized bed, to the extensive array of olive oils, vinegars and rices, to the mouth-watering selection of unusual Spanish treats like tins of squid delicately packed in their own ink, you know that this place is the real deal.
The Spanish Table has long played a central role in Santa Fe’s Spanish Market celebration: every year they sponsor a paella demonstration around Market time, and they will do so again this year. Open to the public and free, the paella demonstration this year is on Saturday, July 25 at 11 a.m., outdoors on Rufina Street, and Saturday July 30 at noon,
outside the store. But this year, the store’s assistant manager and self-taught sausage maker, Rob Fettig, brings a new addition--he will lead a “cure your own Spanish-style chorizo” demo at the store on Friday, July 29 at noon. I was fourtunate enough to visit with Rob not only at the store but at his home, where the magic begins. To step into Rob Fettig’s small, Eastside Santa Fe apartment kitchen is to encounter his obsession with sausage. The counters are topped with heavy, medieval-looking contraptions that evoke The Princess Bride and cookbooks with aggressive, meat-centric titles like “Fat,” “Salumi” and “Pigs and Pork.” The oven, an ad hoc storage space, is stuffed with dozens of pots and pans—along with, possibly, some fermenting logs of meat. The refrigerator is packed with remnants of Rob’s latest experiments: a cast-iron pot of duck confit he made back in September and on which he is still blissfully nibbling, ramekins of pork rillettes that “didn’t turn out so well” and vaguely mysterious plastic tubs of leftover lardo. There is, course, the freezer, which contains, roughly, eighty pounds of pig. But downstairs, in the garage, is where Rob really gets excited. Here, there is another refrigerator, this one also packed with pig. But here, meat hangs—this is where it cures. Right now he’s got a Calabria-style salami made with hot Italian chile; a capicola, made from the nape of a pig’s neck, that will cure for months; and three pieces of culatello ham, which will require six months to a year before they’re ready to eat.
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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A taste of
Assistant manager and self-taught sausage maker, Rob Fettig
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And just in case you miss all the other cues, there’s a pig on his t-shirt (a creation of Rob’s wife, Thais, a trained printmaker whose tolerance of Rob’s space- and time-consuming endeavors appears nothing short of angelic). Rob’s fascination with meat was triggered when he was a kid growing up in the small town of Romeo, Wisconsin. The owners of a local German-Italian liquor store there, called Otto and Frank’s, cured their own meat and hung it from the ceilings. “That was my first encounter,” Rob says. “They had these things called meat sticks, and they had strings of them just hanging, and if you wanted to buy one they’d pull one down and cut you a piece, right there! I thought that was so cool.” The place closed down when Rob was a teenager, and he remembers being saddened by the loss—though he understands their decision, as well as the general scarcity of establishments these days that do their own curing. “People rarely cure their own meat anymore,” he explains. “It’s a lot of work, it takes a ton of time, and things so often go wrong.” It’s only in the last few years that Rob has begun to explore his childhood fascination—teaching himself the complicated methods and recipes through cookbooks and websites that foster an online community of cooks he refers to as his fellow “meat nerds.” But his interest in food and cooking is longstanding: As early as ten years old, Rob became the chief cook in his household. Inspired by cooking shows like The Frugal Gourmet and a Canadian import called Urban Peasant, Rob would habitually prepare elaborate meals for his family. He recalls one Christmas when he endeavored to make a Christmas dinner of pasta carbonara and turkey breasts with morel sauce. “I didn’t even know what morels were,” he says, “until I got to the grocery store!” But rather than going to culinary school, Rob decided to attend the University of Montana in Missoula, where he majored in history. “I guess I figured I’d become a professor or lawyer,” he says. “That’s what everyone else in the history department was doing. And then, there are three lawyers in my family.” But before long, the food world lured Rob back. He spent years in the kitchen of a bakery before landing at his current job as assistant manager of The Spanish Table in downtown Santa Fe where his coworkers encourage and support his interest in curing. It’s not a simple hobby to pick up; for safety’s sake, a lot of precision is required (the meat mixture must be at least three percent salt, for example). But for Rob, the process provides unique pleasure. “I like stuff where I can be really methodical,” he explains. “I love art and I love science, but I’m not good at either of them.” Also, Rob admits that the mystique of meat curing does not escape him. “It’s cool that not a lot of people do it,” he says. “In my nerdy mind, it’s brag-able. Like baking bread.” You can see Rob’s passion in the rapturous way he describes every aspect of the process, from the hanging hams to the cast iron pots to, not surprisingly, the source of the meat itself. To obtain the pork that currently fills his freezer, Rob located one of very few Heritage pig farmers in New Mexico in a small town called Rowe. He was hoping to find a breed that might rival a “trendy” Austrian variety called Mangalitsa, and instead came upon a Chinese type called Large Black Hog. He describes the breed, with trademark enthusiasm, as being “really docile” and “famous for their bacon.” Rob went down to meet the pig when it was just four months old, and eight months after that picked up the (then 300 pounds and slaughtered) hog from a butcher in Moriarty.
He split the meat with a friend of his, but still, there’s plenty to work with. Rob is eager to apply all that he’s learned in the past few years of sausage making. He’s gotten much more confident since his first attempt—a raw chorizo that he found the recipe for online—but still finds the process challenging. The first few steps are fairly straightforward: He grinds the meat in a meat grinder, mixes it with seasonings and live cultures and puts it into a KitchenAid mixer to combine. It’s important, in this step, that the fat not break—and that the mixture take on a paste-like texture. Next comes the fun part: the sausage stuffing. Using the most medieval instrument in the equipment collection (aptly named a “sausage stuffer”), he cranks away to get the meat into the casing—which, yes, is made of beef intestine (which he orders from a butcher in Michigan). Perhaps Rob’s least favorite part is what comes next: when he’s got to section off the meat by tying the knots in the casings. “My mom really wanted me to be a Boy Scout,” he explains, “and I kinda scoffed at it. But it would’ve been a good deal, ’cause those guys learn a whole bunch of knots!” Finally, the meat ferments in the oven for a few days before going down to dry. Keeping the right conditions as the meat cures is a constant challenge: You’ve got to have just the right temperature and level of humidity so that the meat dries throughout, not just on the outside. “I thought it would be magic,” Rob says of his first foray into curing. “I thought I’d just stick it into the chamber and nothing would go wrong.” But while he’s had to make some adjustments with certain projects, he’s been remarkably successful thus far: None of his sausages have spoiled or gotten anyone sick. (If you’re a member of Rob’s family or social circle, you know what to expect for a Christmas gift; as Rob puts it, if he ate all that he produced he would have died of a coronary long ago.) Eventually, Rob would like to open up his own store to sell his sausage—FDA regulations make it virtually impossible to distribute house-made meat any other way. Conveniently, his wife, Thais, loves the idea, too—perhaps because, among other things, it might open up just a bit more room in their apartment kitchen. The Spanish Table is located at 109 Guadalupe Street in Santa Fe. All demonstrations are free and open to the public. For more information call 505.986.0243.
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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s e n i W
at the market story by JAMES SELBY
photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
eginning in January of this year, localflavor has been featuring a different independent Northern New Mexico wine shop in each issue. In part, this series was conceived as a way to showcase the personalities and unique qualities of these locally owned businesses—as well as highlight their strengths. But then it got more interesting. We discovered within this vigorously competitive field a collective championing of the same kind of sustainable, organic, farm-to-table standards for responsibly produced wine that are applied to our foodstuffs. This month, we pick up the series by shining a light on a small family-owned grocery store with wine selections that are anything but small in scope or stature.
n one form or another, a Kaune’s (pronounced “connie’s”) has been around for nearly a quarter of the time Santa Fe has been a capitol. It’s the only family-owned, fullservice grocery (they deliver) in this 400-year-old burg. Kurt and Cheryl Pick Sommer took ownership of the business—located at the corner of Old Santa Fe Trail and Paseo de Peralta—eight years ago. Make no
mistake: The store, now known as Kaune’s Neighborhood Market, is Cheryl’s. You’ll see her there all the time, working on displays, mopping spills, dashing to and from her suite of offices, housed in a separate building behind the store. Sharing credit for shaping Kaune’s spirited new vision is Vice President of Operations, major domo and wine director, Rick Hale. Six years ago Kaune’s invested in a full liquor license and waded into the shallow end of Santa Fe’s wine and spirits pool. It’s now doing swan dives. “It was a case of extreme exposure,” recalls Hale, a robust man with close-cropped red hair. “We took out the diaper section, built wood shelving and wine salespeople force-fed us samples. It’s amazing to look back,” he says. “Our offerings were completely different to what you’ll find now; we’ve a much better defined, well-rounded selection.” When they began, admittedly, Hale didn’t have an experienced palate. That has changed. He’s since earned a reputation as one of the most articulate and analytical buyers in Santa Fe. “One of my wine reps says I’m hard on wine, but I just don’t know any other way to do it,” says Hale, who estimates he tastes about 1000 wines a year. “My job is to take the risk away,
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| Rick Hale
son t7 s t h S ea u g u 9— A J un e 1
L O O H C S S T AO C I S U OF M
Chamb to find wines representing the best value, whether its $10 or $200,” he continues. “Good wines share fundamental components. I look for a life force in the wine. Is it distinguished in some way? I want balance between the acid, tannin and fruit. Is the alcohol integrated? With lower-end wines, is it a crowd pleaser? In the higher-end, I expect more complexity and expressive aromatics.” Even with the 500 wines he has on display, Hale knows there are stores with more space and ample choices. But Kaune’s is emblematic among Northern New Mexico’s elite markets, given its size, for noteworthy artisan wines such as Grower Champagne, white Burgundy and Riesling. “Sales may not fully justify some placements, but it encourages our customers to expand their frame of reference,” says Hale, pouring Riesling for guests in the room designated for wine tastings. It was a 2008 Dönnhoff (the producer) Schlossbockelheimer (the town, in this case “Schlossbockelheim” plus “er,” added to designate origin, in the same way you’d form “New Yorker” from “New York”) Kupfergrube (the vineyard) Riesling Spätlese (the grape/ripeness) from Nahe (the region) of Germany. (Now you can understand German labels. Stick with it.) At a retail price of $61, it’s not an everyday wine, though it’s a bargain compared to those of equal pedigree from Burgundy. “These aren’t chemists,” says Hale of the Dönnhoff family, who has made wine on the same 32 acres since 1750. “They’re in the fields, tasting from the vine. They know when it’s time.” Dan George, a floppy-haired young gentleman who represents the winery swirls the sheer platinum liquid, which shimmers in the glass, like dew. “This has lemon flower and yellow rose. There’s power, yet a multi-layered sophistication,” effuses George. Indeed, the expressions in the wine change every second. “Spätlese isn’t necessarily sweet,” he insists. “This isn’t. It’s ripeness you get, of nectarine and lime. The acid is bracing. This is electric acid!” Hale adds, “You can taste the provenance of the wine, as well, the slate it’s grown in, even copper, like the vineyard’s name.” Another guest remarks that they are learning new “vin vernacular.” At the front of the store, a retailer’s hot spot, are “stacks” of less expensive table wines. “They can’t just be cheap,” says Hale, “they have to represent the quality we offer.” Bashfully, he continues, “The other day, a gentleman stopped me and said I did a great job. ‘You go into a lot of places,’ he told me, ‘they’ve got bottles everywhere, like a shotgun blast. Here, it’s like a rifle shot! Bull’seye.’ That was the nicest compliment.” Kaune’s is located at 511 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, 505.982.2629, www.kaunes.com. They’re open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 6:50 p.m.
al v i t s e F c i s u M r e
lude: c n I s t s i t ing Ar ng Quartet m r o f r e P i meo Str t Borro i Quarte uartet a h g n a Q • Sh o String , pianist n a t n e r ald • B McDon ianist t r e b o • R Sauer, p st violist s a m o h • T ee, gue r T l e a ch • Mi r
fo dule or chool: e h c s t r nce ic s For a co ion on the mus om t a Music.c f o l inform o o h Sc
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www.DIVASantaFe.com 125 e place ave suite 78 sena plaza (located downtown) 982-6816 A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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TWENTY CLASSIC AND SIGNATURE SALADS BUILT UPON FRESH, ORGANIC GREENS AND PRODUCE FROM VINAIGRETTE’S TEN-ACRE FARM IN NAMBE
Le Chat Lunatique
7:30pm $15 Gypsy swing
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Savory soups, grilled sandwiches, a dozen wines by the glass, and housemade desserts supplement the salad bistro menu.
7:30pm, $15 Blues
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7:30pm $15 advance, $18 at the door
July 505-466-3116 7 Caliente Road Eldorado, Santa Fe tickets online santafeperformanceexchange.org
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o grow up to be an internationally renowned flamenco guitarist, one of the best, Chuscales couldn’t have chosen a more magical environment than the one his childhood immersed him in. Hearing him describe it is like entering a mythological land that time forgot.
Born Jose Valle in Antequera, Spain, into a traditional gypsy family full of talented professional musicians and dancers, he was surrounded, daily and nightly, by the intense passions that flamenco celebrates: those darker, richer, more mysterious and eerie regions of the human heart. This nearly inexplicable quality, 48
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story by GAIL SNYDER p h o t o s b y K AT E R U S S E L L
known as duende, was the air his family breathed. All through his earliest childhood, Chuscales listened to, watched, absorbed and became one with flamenco. “Since I was born, it was our whole life, my family and me, all the time. I grew up inside it, my parents both dancers, my grandpa singing and playing guitar. My grandmother grew up in the caves of Sacromonte,” one of the legendary cradles of flamenco. Chuscales remembers with great fondness, respect and wonder the continual parties they held in the caves, with gypsies from all around Granada singing, dancing and playing. “I wish you could see it,” Chuscales says now. “It was like a dream. My children can’t imagine my childhood. This is where I learned everything—the rhythm, the beat, the guitar. I am still learning from those thousands of nights performing with my family, with my father, my grandfather, my friends. “These were not public shows, they were small parties, private. Everyone would be listening, nobody talked. It was like church. Your happiness would be so full, you cry, it’s so beautiful. Everybody would be into the moment. We’d stay up sometimes till three,
“I’m grateful,” he says, “to be able to give flavor to the world through flamenco.”
four, seven in the morning, telling stories, waiting for the magical hour when the spirit, the duende, shows up.” At the age of six, Chuscales spent nine months learning the basic techniques of classical guitar from both his uncle Joaquín and Maestro Agustinillo, two prominent masters in the region where such greats as Segovia have studied. As he got older, it was easy to find others willing to teach him, as well. “I slept and ate with my guitar,” he says. “You take it everywhere in your life, 24 hours a day. Spain is a country where, after you become a young man, it’s easy to become a part of the flamenco community—it’s all around you, the radio stations, the bars. People want to share it out; they’re very open with it.” One who was especially helpful to Chuscales as a teenager was the renowned musician Paco de Lucía, who often performed in the area around Granada. At that point, Chuscales also began performing as a dancer. Although he eventually chose to focus on guitar playing, this backlog of dancing experience gives him a profound and detailed understanding of flamenco’s rhythmic nuances, its complicated footwork sequences, the intense concentration and exhilaration involved in pulling the Earth’s power up through the floor with your feet. Flamenco routines are not strictly choreographed all the way through, which gives the dancer the passion, expression and power to express his or her individuality. The music is always live, and it follows the dance. The singer follows the dancer’s cues for when to start singing, and it’s the same with the musicians. It’s a live collaboration. As a result, when accompanying dancers on his guitar, Chuscales says, “I can understand and follow them. I can see where they are going before they take their next step. I know what the dancer is looking for, how much tension needs to be in the music from one point to another, the right rhythm, when to play strong or soft, so if a dancer asks me for something, I know what they ask.” Nowadays, Chuscales travels throughout the world, performing with flamenco troupes and also on his own. Every summer he comes to Santa Fe to perform with the local flamenco community. Dancer Julia Chacon mentions him as being one of her guitarists of choice when she performs here in town. Originally, Chuscales was a key part of María Benítez’s flamenco troupe, with whom he played for many years; since her retirement, he now performs with the Juan Siddi group. He marvels at how many young people and teenagers are currently picking up the ancient art form of flamenco. Many have come to him as students, and he gives what was given to him when he was their age—demonstrations of particular techniques, answers to their questions and the courtesy of his attention. “Flamenco is a beautiful art. It lets you express what you have inside as an artist; it lets you create it, interpret it, the feelings you have.” As the dancers, the singers and the musicians go deeper and deeper into emotional intensity, exposing realms of feeling not often seen in dance, the audience shares in these feelings. This is ultimately the goal in flamenco performance. “It’s the heart of the gypsy,” Chuscales continues. “We don’t have a limit of expression; we’re all the time giving and receiving. Not everyone is up to letting their feelings take them there. When they do, you have to be respectful for what you’re listening to.” He finds this respect growing exponentially in Santa Fe. “Little by little, the numbers of tourists in our audiences
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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SEASON PRESENTING SPONSOR
ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET P
stays about the same, but more and more locals are coming because they begin to understand what flamenco is and to love it, appreciate it.” Appreciation for flamenco is spreading worldwide, and Chuscales says that currently the second biggest flamenco community in the world, after Spain, is in Japan. “They have a very good feeling,” he says, for the duende, flamenco’s emotional component. He’s very impressed by this, since, as he says, it’s one thing to dance flamenco and play guitar, but it’s very hard to sing, because of the language barrier. “Many people would also like to sing flamenco, but they can’t make the sounds. It takes years of studying and listening.” In fact, Chuscales’ wife, Minako, an excellent flamenco dancer and teacher, is herself originally from Japan. The two met while he was doing a show in New York City. Three of their four children so far are learning to accompany flamenco dancers on piano. In a sense, it’s easier for them, their father acknowledges, since nowadays they can just go on the internet and hear any of the flamenco greats, unlike when he was growing up. But it’s not the same as experiencing the whole flamenco lifestyle, with it being performed all around, on the sidewalks and in bars, as he got to live it. “They aren’t really inside it much, yet,” he says. “I’d like to take them back to Spain so they can see it for themselves.” One of Chuscales’ greatest loves is to introduce this enduring passion of his, flamenco, to as many people as he can possibly reach within his lifetime. “I’m grateful,” he says, “to be able to give flavor to the world through flamenco. And,” he adds, “I thank God I have been around such great musicians all my life.” Chuscales performs with the Juan Siddi Flamenco Theatre Company from June 17 through August 14, Tuesday through Sunday, at 8:30 p.m. in the María Benítez Theater. The theatre is in The Lodge at Santa Fe, 750 North St. Francis Drive in Santa Fe. Tickets: 505.988.1234.
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Aspen Santa Fe Ballet July 8th 8pm
Special Gala Evening with Silent Auction
8pm “Stark, sleek, and chockfull of moves that skirt the edges of contemporary movement” – Karen Campbell, The Boston Globe
Alonzo King LINES Ballet ONE NIGHT ONLY August 5th 8pm
“a vision that remains inscribed in memory.” – France’s Le Monde
Aspen Santa Fe Ballet ENCORE!
A repeat presentation of July’s performances
September 3rd 8pm
“Dynamic, virtuostic, endurance testing, fullthrottle dancing and up-to-the-minute ballet choreography.” – Michael Wade Simpson, The Santa Fe New Mexican All performances are held at The Lensic, Santa Fe’s Performing Arts Center.
Tickets: 505-988-1234 w w w . a s p e n s a n t a f e b a l l e t . c o m CORPORATE SPONSORS
OFFICIAL AND EXCLUSIVE AIRLINE OF ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET
GOVERNMENT / FOUNDATIONS
Partially funded by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers Tax, and made possible in part by New Mexico Arts, a Division of the Department of Cultural Affairs, and the National Endowment for the Arts. PHOTO: MARTY SOHL
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Performing with the Juan Siddi Flamenco Theatre Company
Welcome to Albuquerque’s #1 destination for Food, Beverage & Entertainment!
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Michelle Moreland | Santa Fe & Taos 505.699.7369 | morelandnm @ aol.com Lynn Kaufman | ABQ | 505.417.8876 lynn @ localflavormagazine.com
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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story by CAITLIN RICHARDS
Lemon- and GarlicBrined Chicken Created by Chef Bob Peterson of Savoy Bar & Grill
Hailing from a rural, coastal New England town, Chef Bob Peterson is fond of simple preparations that stand the test of time and can be enjoyed by all. In his time off, Chef Peterson can be found biking with his two boys on the many great New Mexico trails. He uses his brine recipe at home once a week and his kids love it! “Chicken that is cooked on the bone on a smoky grill benefits from brining a day or two before roasting. It keeps it moist and helps introduce flavor to the meat.” The following recipe is for a lemon and garlic brine for 1 to 2 whole chickens weighing between 3 ½ to 4 ½ pounds. Poultry Brine 1/4 cup salt 1/4 cup fresh rosemary, whole 2 Tablespoons cracked black pepper 4-6 sprigs fresh thyme, whole 3 lemons, halved 5 cloves garlic, crushed 1 qt water 2 qts ice water In a large saucepan combine the first 7 ingredients, bring to a boil, simmer for 5 minutes. Add the ice water and allow to cool completely. Brine: 2 to 24 hours before roasting, cut a 4 ½ lb chicken in half through the middle of the breast and to either side of the backbone. Place the poultry in a container large enough to hold it completely submerged in water. Pour the cooled brine over the poultry and add enough water to cover completely.
Photo: Josh Schroeder
p h o t o s b y K AT E R U S S E L L
Strawberry Bibb Salad
Created by Chef Paul Mandigo of Seasons Rotisserie and Grill Chef Paul Mandigo studied at the Scottsdale Culinary Institute in Arizona, then did his externship at the Palace Cafe in New Orleans. He has been in the industry for 18 years, working in Michigan, Minnesota, Indiana, New Orleans and Arizona before finding a home here in New Mexico. This salad is bright and fresh with summery strawberries. Serves four 1 head organic bibb lettuce 4 oz baby spinach 3 1/2 oz fresh strawberries, sliced 3 1/2 to 4 oz goat cheese (we use local Old Windmill Dairy) 3 to 4 oz sliced almonds, toasted 4 oz black pepper–balsamic vinaigrette (recipe follows) Black Pepper–Balsamic Vinaigrette yield: 1 cup (8oz.) 4 leaves basil, thinly sliced 1 shallot, minced 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1/2 Tablespoon black pepper, coarsely cracked 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil salt to taste
Preheat a grill to 400˚. Rinse the excess spices off the outside of the chicken. Dust the chicken with smoked paprika and place on the hot grill. Lightly sear each side of the chicken, then place on the top rack of the grill, bone side down. (If using a charcoal grill, push the coals to one side and place the chicken on the other side.) Cover and reduce the heat to 325˚ to 350˚. Cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Check for doneness with a meat thermometer (it should read 165˚ at the thickest part). Serve with BBQ sauce or simply drizzle with fresh lemon juice.
Whisk together the first five ingredients; while whisking, slowly drizzle in the olive oil in a steady stream. Season with salt to taste.
Savoy is located at 10601 Montgomery Boulevard NE, Albuquerque. 505.294.9463. www.savoyabq.com.
Seasons is located in Old Town at 2031 Mountain Road NW, Albuquerque. 505.766.5100. www.seasonsabq.com
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To assemble: Toss lettuce and spinach with dressing and mound on plate. Arrange strawberries on salad. Top with crumbled goat cheese and sliced almonds and enjoy.
uly is the month to fire up the grill, invite some friends over and enjoy a spectacular New Mexican sunset. Even professional chefs love to grill in their own backyard, so that’s where we turned for these four great recipes. What ties this group of chefs together is that they all command a kitchen in the Roessler group of restaurants. Brothers Keith and Kevin Roessler have put one of the most talented groups of chefs in New Mexico together at their restaurants, Seasons, Savoy and Zinc in Albuquerque and The Gorge Bar & Grill in Taos. Here they are—recipes from the pros. Don’t be surprised if the neighbors poke their heads over the fence to see what those delicious aromas are!
Cedar-Planked Side of Salmon with Molasses-Soy Glaze Created by Chef Chris Pope of Zinc
Chef Pope enjoys the abundance of local and seasonal produce available during the summer. When not in the kitchen, Chris enjoys the New Mexico outdoors: backpacking, fly fishing or grilling with his wife and two dogs. Of his cedar-planked salmon Chris says, “This dish always gets ‘wow!’ results due to its unique presentation on the plank, from which guests flake off the fish. The smell of the cedar smoke as it cooks is an added bonus.” Serves 12 to 18 people 1 cedar plank (approximately 6x14 inches) 1 whole side salmon, pin-bones removed (2 to 3 lbs) Cut or buy an appropriate sized piece of cedar. (If buying at a home improvement center be sure that you purchase wood that is untreated.) If using smaller boards, portion out the fish into approximately 6-ounce pieces, and then cook each piece on its own slice of wood. Soak the board in water overnight, placing something heavy on top to submerge it. Season salmon with salt and pepper. Coat the top of the board with nonstick spray, then lay the fish along the length of the board, skin down. Preheat a gas grill to a medium temperature (300˚), then place the board with the fish over the hot grate. When the cedar starts to smell of wood, close the lid and allow salmon to slow-cook. The wet board will create aromatic smoke, which will infuse the fish with flavor while also cooking it. After about 5 minutes, open the lid and brush on the glaze. The smoke will cling to the natural sugar in the molasses. Close the lid again and continue to cook approximately 15 minutes. Check every 5 minutes to ensure the boards don’t catch fire; they should be smoldering; however. If flaming, spritz boards with a water bottle. The fish is done when you can flake away the flesh with a fork. Remove the board to a platter or cookie sheet, and serve the salmon right off the cedar plank.
Created by Chef Arik Zamora of The Gorge Bar & Grill “I enjoy the Taos sunshine with my wife and two dogs.” says Chef Arik Zamora. “Northern New Mexico has lots of great places to explore. I spend time working on my 1952 Willy’s Wagon, and I try to squeeze in a nice long nap!” Here Chef Zamora puts his spin on the classic side dish to any backyard barbecue. 1 cup honey 1 cup smooth Dijon mustard 1 cup seeded Dijon mustard 2 1/2 cups apple cider vinegar 1 1/2 cups blended oil or vegetable oil 1 head green cabbage Mix first four ingredients in a bowl, whisk together. Add oil slowly and whisk together to emulsify. Cut cabbage in half and core; cut those halves into half and then shred as thinly as possible. Just before serving, toss together cabbage and dressing to desired wetness, using only as much of the dressing as desired. Remaining dressing can be stored in the fridge for up to 3 days. Enjoy!
Molasses-Soy Glaze 1 cup molasses 1/2 cup soy sauce 2 limes 3 Tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 Tablespoons sambal oelek (Thai red chile paste) 2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Place molasses, soy sauce, lime juice and zest, Dijon mustard and Thai chile paste in a nonreactive bowl. Stir to mix, then whisk in olive oil.
The Gorge Bar & Grill is located in the Taos Plaza at 103 East Plaza, Taos. 575.758.8866. www. thegorgebarandgrill.com.
Zinc is located in the Nob Hill District at 3009 Central Ave. NE, Albuquerque. 505.254.9462. www.zincabq.com A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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La Casa Sena a Local Favorite For over 27 years
Modern, Sustainable Cuisine. Infused with Fresh, Local, and Seasonal Ingredients LIke uS on FaCebook For weekLy SpeCIaLS.
125 East Palace, Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 988-9232 | lacasasena.com
Rio Chama’s Patio
Now Our Patio is the perfect venue to host a party, birthday celebration, wedding reception or to kick back and enjoy the warm weather. l i k e u S O N Fa C e b O O k F O R
w e e k ly u P D aT e S , a N D S P e C i a l S Open Daily from 11am until closing 414 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-955-0765 | riochamasteakhouse.com
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403½ Guadalupe • Santa Fe • 505.984.9104 Open Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-9:30 • maxssantafe.com
Taste the New Southwest Chef Charles Daleâ€™s modern rustic cuisine introduces a Contemporary American fare that is regionally inspired by Northern New Mexico and infused with local and organically sourced ingredients.
198 State Road 592, Santa Fe
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Local Flavor Magazine July 2011: Show Time! Performing Arts in New Mexico