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Get your

Wild On! MAY 2013

SANTA FE | AL B UQUERQUE | TAOS A TASTE O F LIFE IN N EW MEX IC O


LAURA SHEPPHERD ATELIER

Spring Dress Sale 25%–50% off Bridal Mother of the Bride Cocktail

Mothers Day Scarves starting at $25 photosantagto.com

65 w. marcy street santa fe, nm 87501 505.986.1444 laurasheppherd.com •

T H E T I B E TA N C O L L E C T I O N

Perfect Bliss

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it’s always fresh, always local, always close. Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.

OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE 505.766.5100 www.seasonsabq.com

HISTORIC NOB HILL

ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS

505.254.ZINC(9462)

505.294.WINE(9463)

www.zincabq.com

www.savoyabq.com

ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE 505.850.2459 www.tasteabq.com

. .truly local.


Inside:

Buzz | 08

by Kelly Koepke

What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not … that’s the buzz!

Get Your Wild On! | 12 by Gordon Bunker

Strap yourself in for a ride on the zipline! You won’t want to miss a moment of writer Gordon Bunker’s high-flying adventure in Angel Fire.

Taos Hum | 16 by Tania Casselle

Kim Treiber loves “big ol’ twangy country music” and her palomino, Amigo. Rey Deveaux is a fourth-generation Taoseño who knows every inch of mountain biking trail in the area and gladly shares it with tourists and locals alike at his in-town bicycle shop. They’re the perfect pair for this month’s outdoor issue!

Off the Beaten Track | 19 by James Selby

For a while now, Arroyo Vino has been Santa Fe’s most talked-about new wine shop. Now, it’s also the most talked-about new restaurant. The location may be slightly off the beaten track, but it’s right on target with Brian Bargsten’s premier collection of wines and Mark Connell’s talents in the kitchen.

Fat Tire | 22 by Barry Fields

‘Catch a little air’ and you’ll be hooked on mountain biking forever. Seasoned rider Barry Fields shares his love for the sport and his first-hand experience on the trails.

Harvesting Change | 26 by Erin Brooks

Terms like “natural,” “organic” and “biodynamic” are creating quite a debate in the wine world. Writer Erin Brooks takes a measured look at the issues and explores why it’s important to you.

Cazuela’s | 28 by Kate Gerwin

We went to this Rio Rancho landmark restaurant for the molcajetes, then stayed for a little batting practice. How can you resist the combo of genuine New Mexican food and batting cages right off the patio?

Quiet Waters | 32 by Gail Snyder

ON OUR COVER:

Hawk Ferenczy, Director of Zipline Tours at the Angel Fire Resort

The beauty and serenity of the Middle Rio Grande are captured by Michael Hayes, founder of Quiet Waters Paddling Adventures.

Still Hungry? | 36 by Mandy Marksteiner

May is the official month to fire up your backyard grill. Local Flavor makes sure it’s a kick-off to remember as we invite you to “Go Global on the Grill.”

MAY

2013 ~ Publishers: Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor: Patty Karlovitz Web Editor: Melyssa Holik Art Director: Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Gaelen Casey Advertising: Santa Fe: Mary Brophy 505.231.3181. Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544. Margaret Henkels 505.501.2290 . Albuquerque: Ashley Schutte 505.604.2547. Prepress: Scott Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Distribution: Southwest Circulation Local Flavor Magazine 223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 Fax: 988.9663 E-mail: patty@localflavormagazine.com www.localflavormagazine.com Subscriptions $24 per year. Mail check to above address.

© Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.

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He’s Back!

PRANZO

PRANZO

I TA L I A N G R I L L

I TA L I A N G R I L L

Chef Steven Lemon helped launch Pranzo Italian Grill twenty-five years ago and saw the then-fledgling fine Italian restaurant through its first six years. We happily welcome Steve back to Pranzo - Owner, Michael O’Reilly May in the Geist Cabaret

Saturday, May 4, 6-9: David Geist with Vocalist Julie Trujillo

Friday, May 10: Arias and More Arias! Tenor Nick Palance sings! Guest stars! 6 p.m. prix fixe and concert $100 - A fundraiser for Habitat for Humanity Saturday, May 11, 6-9: David Geist Broadway and more Broadway

May 12, Mother’s Day Special 5-8: Classical pianist Kelvin MacNeal plays Chopin, Debussy, Granados Friday, May 17, 6-9: David Geist with Vocalist Julie Trujillo

Saturday, May 18, 6-9: David Geist Broadway and more Broadway Friday, May 24, 6-9: Composer/Pianist Robin Holloway

Saturday, May 25, 6-9: Jazz Pianist John Rangel with Chanteuse Faith Amour 540 Montezuma Avenue in the Sanbusco Market Center Reservations 505-984-2645 www.pranzosantafe.com

&

BO TWIN

EY E

e y e s

GRO U P

o p t i c s S A N TA

FE

DR. MARK BOTWIN DR. JONATHAN BOTWIN DR. JEREMY BOTWIN

Optometric Physicians 444 St Michaels Drive 505.954.4442 BotwinEyeGroup.com

May in Fuego Featuring the Global Latin Cuisine of New Mexico’s Chef of the Year Carmen Rodriguez Mother’s Day Brunch Sunday, May 12th An extravagant buffet including Red Chile Molasses Glazed Ham, Roasted Leg of Lamb, Arroz del Mar, Pollo en Pipion Rojo, Omelets and more $55 for adults; $25 for children 12 and under*

“Flamenco en Fuego” Saturday, May 18th An evening of Flamenco and Latin Dance with a three-course dinner for just $48 per person* *plus tax and gratuity

LA

PO S A D A

DE

S A N TA FE

A Seafood & Prime Steakhouse #1 in Santa Fe since 1971 Live Spanish Guitar Weekend Nights

Reservations: 505-983-3328 150 Washington Ave. Santa Fe

In the Courtyard, one block North of the Plaza

R ESO RT & S PA

santafebullring.com

A ROCKRESORT

Lunch: Tues-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner: Mon-Sun 5-10:00pm Bar Menu Available All Day

TM

Reservations: 505-954-9670 or visit OpenTable.com 330 E. Palace Avenue, Santa Fe • laposadadesantafe.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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letter

Photo: Gaelen Casey

The first time I heard the term “zipline” was from my two daredevil grandsons. Using old mechanical parts they found in the barn, they hand-fashioned a zipline from their treehouse to the limb of an acacia tree below. It was definitely a “don’t try this at home” moment when the oldest had to be zipped over to the emergency room with a sprained wrist. Fast forward to 2013, to Hawk Ferenczy—a decidedly more seasoned daredevil––and the director of Angel Fire’s heart-pounding new adventure where riders in a harness soar hundreds of feet above the forest floor to capture the sensation of flight. I can’t think of a better lead story (or cover) for our Outdoor Issue—or a better way to enjoy the majestic scenery of Taos. I may just settle for the vicarious thrill of reading the story, but I know there are plenty of readers out there who will be heading up north to try it themselves. Our thanks to the amazing staff at Angel Fire who opened the lines early to accommodate our deadline and gave our writer, Gordon Bunker, and photographer, Gaelen Casey, the afternoon of a lifetime! A little farther south, we head to the Sangres for some of the best mountain biking in the country. Santa Fe firmly established itself in the fat tire world last year when they hosted the International Mountain Bicycling Association’s biennial World Summit. Writer Barry Fields (along with his biking buddy Maggy Schulze, who has clocked over 25,000 mountain bicycling miles) gives you some great glimpses into the rush of the sport and the character of our local trails. Again, we hope that we inspire you to tackle this exhilarating sport yourself. Just go “catch a little air.” Still farther south—this time on the Middle Rio Grande in Albuquerque—we bring you the experience of quiet water paddling. Most New Mexicans have either experienced the wild side of the Rio or at least read about the world-class rapids that occur during spring run-off. Same river, different experience. Four years ago, Michael Hayes moved here from the Midwest and brought with him his love of being one with nature by canoeing in quiet waters. This is a side of the Rio Grande that most of have not experienced, and it is not only right in our backyard, it’s an adventure that can be enjoyed by a broad range of ages, levels of fitness and, yes, derring-do. Turning to the sport of food and wine, we have a fun story on Cazuelas in Rio Rancho—a big rambling family restaurant with batting cages at the edge of the patio where the kids can burn off some energy while you enjoy the sunset over the Sandias, microbrew in hand. Striking a totally different tone, we also celebrate the opening of an amazing new Santa Fe restaurant just a little off the beaten track that brings together the talents of an esteemed wine purveyor and one of our most talented chefs under the same roof. Brian Bargsten, the sommelier and owner of Arroyo Vino, just expanded the purview of his wine shop to include a restaurant of the first order. In the kitchen is Chef Mark Connell, crafting an astonishing array of small plates. (And in the courtyard there are even plans for a bocce ball court!) Here at Local Flavor, we’re ready for the month of May and the chance to stretch our wings and revel in this part of the great outdoors we call home.

| Local Flavor Daredevils Writer Gordon Bunker and photographer, Gaelen Casey. 6

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New-Mexican inspired cuisine with French influence. Made with local and organic farm-to-table ingredients.

NOON - 4:00PM at ABQ UPTOWN

Located on the NE Corner of Louisiana Blvd. and Indian School Rd

FINE FOOD, MUSIC & SHOPPING! •

The food festival will feature sample dishes from some of Albuquerque's finest restaurants, wineries and breweries

Enjoy live music by the incredible DCN Project

Fun & free activities for the kids

10-Taste Wristbands: $20 each or 2 for $35, cash only

Advance purchase: Two 10-Taste Wristbands for $30. Available at COTTONWOOD MALL Simon Guest Services booth.

Special 3 course dinner menu Sunday–Thursday $30 Or mention this ad and receive a 15% discount on à la carte items Breakfast ~ Lunch ~ Dinner Hotel St. Francis ~ 210 Don Gaspar Ave, Santa Fe (505)983-5700 ~ hotelstfrancis.com

Come enjoy our friendly bar and when you stay for lunch or dinner be sure to ask about our daily specials, including our new Saturday Night Smoked Prime Rib Dinner

Participating Restaurants, Wineries & Breweries: Marcello's Chophouse • Artichoke Cafe • Bravo! Cucina Italiana Forque • Lucia • Vernon's Hidden Valley Steakhouse Elephant Bar & Grill • El Pinto • The Melting Pot • Nexus Brewery Il Vicino Brewery • Gruet Winery • California Pizza Kitchen Nob Hill Bar & Grill • and more!

For more information, call 729.1929. Vendors subject to change. All sales final. No refunds.

’ n i k o Sm 2571 Cristos Rd, Santa Fe (across from the Auto Park near Kohls) 505-424-8900 • info@theranchhousesantafe.com

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food offerings, which now include a breakfast menu and full coffee bar. The original Al’s Big Dipper, at 411 Central Avenue, has been open for almost three years.

b y K E L LY K O E P K E

Bailey’s fish tacos will be gone, but woodfired, brick-oven pizza from Amore Neapolitan Pizzeria is taking its place in July. Owners Gabriel and Kim Amador are working with Roberto Caporuscio, owner of the top two highest Zagat-rated pizzerias in the country, to perfect their craft, and both are also APN-certified—that’s the highest certification for pizza chefs in Italy. With its handmade to order pizzas cooked in a beautiful wood-fired oven that heats to 1000 degrees and cooks in 70 seconds, Amore deserves a big benvenuto!

Photo: Kate Russell

Ancient Spirits Bar and Grille, named for the ethereal presences that remain in New Mexico, launched in Bernalillo in April. Immediately east of the Santa Ana Star Casino (formerly Capo’s Bottega Ristorante Italiano and Milagro Brewery and Grill), Ancient Spirits is noted for Executive Chef Enrique Guerrero. Chef Guerrero’s résumé is top-notch: personal chef for Mexican President Carlos Salinas, chef at La Mancha at Galisteo Inn (which Bon Appétit called one of “ten of our favorite dining spots in vacation destinations around the country”) and the founding chef for both the O Eating House in Pojoaque and Mangiamo Pronto in Santa Fe. The restaurant, which has a spectacular patio, will serve both lunch and dinner. There are also plans are to relaunch the brewery operation. Call 505.867.5331.

| Chef Enrique Guerrera Downtown Albuquerque now has two Al’s Big Dipper sandwich shops. Al’s Other Half opened April 3 in a space at the city’s main library, at 501 Copper Avenue NW. Co-owner Cassidy Chen has expanded the 8

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| Chef Claus Hjortkjaer Delicious news for Albuquerque foodies: Chef Claus Hjortkjaer is reopening Le Café Miche at the current site of P’tit Louis Bistro, on Gold Street downtown. Claus’ wife, Linda, will once again be your charming hostess. The restaurant is adding a dinner menu to the previous lunch-only offerings. Le Café Miche has been missed, and Chef C assures us that the same fantastic food and atmosphere will be had at the new location. If you can’t make it to Paris, come to Le Café Miche beginning May 1. Fans of Street Food Asia are rejoicing that they can get grab-and-go Malay, Vietnamese and Thai street food options at the restaurant’s sister location, Street Food Market. Desserts, coffees and teas for that afternoon pick-me-up are available at the Harvard/Central location, across from UNM. Construction’s almost finished (and may be by the time you read this). For details on the opening party, call 505.268.1196 or check their Facebook page. Los Lunas’ Green House Bistro and Bakery is now open for dinner! (Really, it’s not that far.) The menu boasts seasonal fresh herbs, greens and vegetables, grown in the bistro’s organic gardens and picked daily. Enjoy Chef Thomas Slater’s new spring/summer selections (rotisserie chicken and fresh herbs from the garden, anyone?), served with fresh breads and desserts baked onsite. Located on the campus of the Center for Ageless Living, the bistro offers breakfast, lunch and takeout, too. Visit www.greenhousebistro.com.

Photo: Dawn Allynn

First, with the openings and closings. Wear black on May 20, the last day for Bailey’s on the Beach. This Nob Hill eatery quickly became an institution when it opened less than three years ago. But it wasn’t the recession that closed Bailey’s; owner Roy Solomon’s burnt out and wants to concentrate on his other Nob Hill business, spin/exercise studio Ryde Shack, which he runs with Amanda Stafford.

Photo: Gabriella Marks

ALBUQUERQUE

| Matt Rembe of Los Poblanos More kudos to The Los Poblanos Historic Inn and Organic Farm for their recognition in Bon Appétit as the “sixth-best hotel for food lovers” in the U.S. La Merienda, the hotel’s restaurant, earns praise both for the cooking and the ingredients––regionally magazine.com

inspired, seasonally driven, locally sourced and almost completely organic. (And that goes for the farm eggs, house-made bacon, honey from farm bees and fruits and vegetables from Los Poblanos’ fields.) Stay at the inn for breakfast any day, and join them for dinner Wednesday through Saturday. Call 505.344.9297. It’s not always Santa Fe that makes it to the top of a great list. Albuquerque’s been named the top city for travel with pets by Priceline. com. Cities were ranked according to their number of pet-friendly hotels, off-leash dog parks and walkability. Burque beat out the likes of Portland, Tucson, Austin and San Francisco. People love their pets, and many can’t imagine traveling without them. This list is a guide to help travelers find the best experiences no matter who’s along for the ride. The National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation honored restaurateur Steve Paternoster with its 2013 Cornerstone Humanitarian award in Washington, D.C., last month. We’ve known forever about Patersnoster’s significant support of and contributions to non-profits and the local community. The Scalo owner and CEO of the YMCA of Central New Mexico founded Youth Matters, in memory of his daughter, to help teens in the children’s court system, as well as Haley’s Haven, a home that provides counseling, self-esteem classes and employment training for girls. (And it also includes a culinary component.) Big thumbs up, Steve! Specialty clothing boutique Willow celebrated ten years in business last month, thanks to everyone who loves their clothing and accessories. Lynn and the Willettes deserve a big round of applause for making the city a little more beautiful every day. Visit them at the Rio Grande Shoppes at Flying Star Plaza, 4022 Rio Grande Boulevard, NW. In art news, the Corrales Art Studio Tour, now in its 15th year, is scheduled for May 4-5, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Art patrons and collectors descend on the quiet Village of Corrales in search of that perfect piece of art or to discover the next budding artist. Start your tour at the historic Villa Acequia’s Preview Gallery, which represents work from each participating artist. Then grab a catalog and a map and begin your journey. Visit www.corralesartstudiotour.com or call 505.688.0100. We’ll be at the Southwest Book Fiesta, our region’s premier book event, May 10-12 at the Albuquerque Convention Center, to see the likes of cookbook author Deborah Madison, social historian and New York Times bestselling author T. J. English, crime and mystery novelist Jonathan Miller, and Dave DeWitt, the“The Pope of Peppers,” who is promoting his new book, Dishing Up New Mexico. Enjoy readings, demonstrations and seminars, as you discover national and regional books and authors. Proceeds benefit literacy groups and non-profit organizations devoted to books, media and learning. Tickets are at www.swbookfiesta.com.

SANTA FE By now, everyone has heard that Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen has become part of Gerald and Katie Peters’ restaurant group, Santa Fe Dining. “Santa Fe Dining has assured us that there will be no interruption in service, during or after the transfer,” owners Al and Laurie Lucero said. “Laurie and I hope to see as many of our friends and customers, who have become a part of our Maria’s family, before we hand the keys over to Santa Fe Dining. We will be here until we close the deal, and we look forward to the opportunity of joining our friends as customers at Maria’s.” We wish the Luceros, an honored presence in the city’s dining scene, much luck with their next adventure. Maria and Gilbert Lopez started Maria’s in 1950, the Luceros purchased the restaurant in 1985 and have owned it the longest of all previous owners. So remember last month we told you that Trattoria Nostrani became Vivre, changing from Italian to French bistro? Now word has it that catering company Peas ‘n’ Pod has bought Vivre from co-owners Nelli Maltezos and Eric Stapelman. When the chance to buy the Johnson Street restaurant popped up, Peas ’n’ Podders Glenda Griswold and Catherine O’Brien, who have been feeding Santa Fe since 1996, jumped on it. Plans are still in the works for the new new restaurant, and Vivre is remaining open for a few months to offer wine deals to cull the fabulous cellar. Call 505.983.3800. Welcome Garduño’s restaurant to the Lodge in Santa Fe. Now Santa Fe has its own location of the Albuquerque-owned Mexican eatery. This one’s open for all three meals, seven days a week. The margaritas are worldclass, which makes Garduño’s a destination. And the famous table side guacamole, sizzling fajitas, tacos and salads? Delish. Visit www. gardunosrestaurants.com. Chef Rocky Durham’s in charge of the May 16 Feast of San Pasqual and San Ysidro Dinner at Santa Fe Culinary Academy! Celebrating “New World’s First Fusion Cuisine,” this one-night-only event pays homage to two of New Mexico’s most popular saints: San Pasqual, the patron saint of cooks and kitchens, and San Ysidro, the patron saint of agriculture. The evening’s sure to be rooted in Native American agriculture, tempered with European ingredients and techniques and seasoned with Chef Rocky’s own brand of contemporary Southwestern cuisine. What an opportunity for diners to have an intimate meet and mingle with the curators of the Museum of International Folk Art’s exhibition New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Mate y Más. Reservations are required. Museum members, call 505.983.7445 for your special rate; others visit www.santafeculinaryacademy.com. New Mexicans love their burgers, and Bobcat Bite has taken top burger honors from Huffington Post. Because seriously, what’s not to love about freshly ground beef, spicy roasted green chile strips and cheddar cheese? That’s ten ounces of heaven on a plate! And can you believe Bobcat’s been


around since 1953? Fat and cholesterol be damned—current owners Bonnie and John Eckre have a good thing going out on Old Las Vegas Highway. Call 505.983.5319 for hours and to find out whether there’s a line out the door. Two bits concerning Kaune’s Neighborhood Market. The market’s been closed since April 1 for a complete makeover. Those who have seen the work in progress say that we can expect a huge treat when the doors reopen on May 4. According to manager Amy Frank, the entire floor plan is going to change, and specialty and gourmet offerings will expand. Also, owner and president Cheryl Pick Sommer has been named to the executive committee of the National Grocers Association. The association is the national trade association representing the retail and wholesale grocers that comprise the independent sector of the food-distribution industry. Kudos all around! Two Santa Fe spas earned mention in Prevention.com’s 50 Healthiest Eco Spas round-up this year. Congratulations to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa and Ten Thousand Waves Japanese Spa and Resort. What’s fabulous is that the two spas couldn’t be more different. Ojo is rustic and focused on local herbs, waters and treatments with a Native American influence. Ten Thousand Wave’s Japanese aesthetic makes it a destination for treatments and hot tubbing. Both incorporate the best of the New Mexico landscape in the experience.

Up for a road trip? Celebrate National Wine Tourism Day on May 11 at Estrella Del Norte Vineyard or Anasazi Fields Winery in Placitas. Just 15 minutes north of Santa Fe, Estrella Del Norte is offering a two-for-one wine tasting. Anasazi is participating in the Placitas Studio Tour with a special tasting of some of their library wines, and work by artists like Linda Nisenbaum, Meg Leonard and Jim Fish will also be on display. Visit www. winetourismday.com for more details. Albuquerque’s loss is Santa Fe’s gain. Carolyn Pollack Jewelry Gallery is relocating from ABQ Uptown to the Fashion Outlets of Santa Fe. The storefront should be open by Memorial Day weekend, so visitors to Santa Fe can purchase Pollack’s line of silver jewelry made famous on television shopping channel QVC. You’ll need to call him Doctor Abeyta now. The Institute of American Indian Arts bestows an honorary doctorate on alumnus Tony Abeyta at its May 10 graduation ceremony. (Bonus: poet, author, musician and alumna Joy Harjo delivers the commencement address.) Abeyta’s pieces— contemporary works ranging from charcoal drawings and large-scale oil and sand paintings to abstract mixed-media pieces— are collected at institutions throughout the nation, including the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian, the Southwest Museum, the Heard Museum and the Montclair Art Museum. Locallly he is represented by the Blue Rain Gallery.

Speaking of Ten Thousand Waves, a new Japanese massage technique has arrived: cat massage. No, they’re not going to massage your cat. They’re going to massage you with a cat. Seriously. This might be too weird even for us. For hundreds of years, specially trained cats performed therapeutic massage in the court of the emperors. Now, a few therapists have been taught how to choose and train especially talented cats in Neko Amna—cat massage. There are only a few appointments each day; call 505.982.9304 for yours.

Photo: Gaelen Casey

May Memories...

Give someone you love a memorable gift. Treat them to an Eldorado Hotel and Spa gift card. Gift cards can be used in Nidah Spa, The Old House or towards our Accommodations! As always, 15% savings in Nidah Spa for locals.

Photo: Gabriella Marks

| Tony Abeyta

| Chef Tony Smith of The Old House Come celebrate Cinco de Mayo local-style at the Old House Farm to Restaurant feast. Chef Tony Smith will prepare a fresh, lively and locally sourced dinner to benefit Farm to Table’s award-winning Farm to Restaurant program. The dinner boasts local meats, veggies, cheeses and wines from Vivac Winery. Tickets are $85, and proceeds benefit the Farm to Restaurant Program. It’s is a fun and delicious way to support a great program and learn more about the local food movement in Santa Fe. Call 505.310.7405 or visit www. farmtotablenm.org for tickets.

For a truly immersive artistic experience, why not rent one of four artist-decorated rooms at Albuquerque’s Nativo Lodge? Nativo partnered with Southwestern Association for Indian Arts to commission four Native American contemporary artists to transform guestrooms into works of art. Contemporary artists Heidi Brandow, Nani Chacon, Rhett Lynch and Ehren Kee Natay spent April putting their touches on their rooms, which are available to rent now. These New Mexico artists have received local and national attention for their works, including accolades from the world-renowned Santa Fe Indian Market. Call 505.798.4300 for reservations. We’re hyper conscious of water—or its lack—here in the high desert. That’s why Whole Foods is celebrating the Santa Fe Watershed Association with a special Santa Fe Community Support Day, May 22, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Both store locations

Mother’s Day Champagne Brunch

Our delicious brunch features breakfast selections including a Chef 's omelet station and carving stations. Satisfy your sweet tooth with white chocolate cheesecake, Bailey's diva chocolate mousse and so much more! May 12th, starting at 10am. 505.995.4508

505.995.4455

Eldorado Hotel & Spa 309 W. San Francisco Street EldoradoHotel.com

Gift Cards Available in Nidah Spa A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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will donate five percent of the day’s sales to the association that has dedicated itself to reviving the Santa Fe River. Did you know the river runs 46-plus miles from its headwaters at Santa Fe Lake in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains to the Rio Grande River near Cochiti? Now you do. Learn more at www.santafewatershed.org. Always to be counted on for original and provocative twists in modern dance, veteran Santa Fe dancer/choreographer Julie Brette Adams is outdoing herself this year by presenting a program of all new work for her annual performance at the Santa Fe Playhouse. One Woman Dancing is May 17-19. Guest choreographer, Santa Fe’s Margaret West, created a dance set to the PortugueseCreole vocals of Sara Tavares. Info and tickets can be found at www. santafeplayhouse.org.

Photo: © Paulo T. Photography

santa fe ’s premier food event sunday, june 2, 2013 · 10:00 am – 5:00 pm free to new mexico residents at the museum of international folk art

THE

celebrate the flavor of new mexico!

| Julie Brette Adams

TAOS enjoy and explore • Visit the New World Cuisine exhibition • Delicious products for sample and sale • Outdoor horno baking demonstrations • Book fair with New Mexico authors • Cooking demonstrations by Rocky Durham, Executive Chef of the Santa Fe Culinary Academy • Wine and beer tastings at the Museum Hill Café • For more information, visit DeliciousNM.com B y museum admission. New Mexico Residents with i.d. free on Sundays. Youth 16 and under and mnmf members always free.

On Museum Hill in Santa Fe · www.InternationalFolkArt.org · (505) 476-1200

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A new restaurant in Taos! Mosaic Fine Dining opens in May at La Fonda de Taos, with Executive Chef and owner George Bartel’s menu demonstrating classical French techniques adapted to local, fresh ingredients and a variety of culinary traditions. The historic La Fonda de Taos hotel is steeped in Taos lore, and the venerable dining room has been reborn (while preserving signature details such as the bar and heavy vigas). Diners can expect more casual lunches of sandwiches, salads and main courses, specially created by Chef George, who worked at the renowned Fifty-Six Union Restaurant, on Nantucket Island, as well as the Clifton Inn, a Relais and Chateaux property in Charlottesville, Virginia. For dinner, Mosaic ramps it up with white-tablecloth service and a menu brimming with bold flavors, while the bar offers a special menu and a careful selection of wine and beer. So whether you choose lunch, dinner or Sunday brunch—or just want to hang out at the bar for a draft and a bite—

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you’ll find a comfortable atmosphere that delivers the true Taos experience. www.mosaicfinedining.com or call 575.751.3438. Lovers of Black Mesa wines rejoice at the winery’s new tasting room, wine bar and gallery in Taos. The grand opening is May 10, with a ribbon cutting, live radio remote and wine specials. Located at 241 Ledoux Street, across from the Harwood Museum, the Black Mesa tasting room features the wines of Black Mesa Winery and Santa Fe Vineyard. Owners Jerry and Lynda Burd are proud to introduce Taoseños Craig and Laurie Dunn, and Karen Fielding as the management team for the new wine bar. Visit www. blackmesawinery.com for complete details. Who loves trains? Kids love trains. Even big kids. So take advantage of the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad “kids ride free” program this summer. Children between the ages of 2 and 12 ride free with the purchase of one full price adult ticket. Families will have a wonderful time experiencing the authentic West on the Cumbres and Toltec as they pass through New Mexico and Colorado’s most scenic areas. The train chugs 10,015 feet up the Cumbres Pass, winds through tunnels and over trestles and snakes along the 800-feet deep Toltec Gorge, past waterfalls, mountain forests and alpine meadows. While technically powered by authentic steam locomotives, the railroad actually runs on the passion and tireless efforts of dedicated employees, who make their brand of mountain railroading an experience like no other. Visit www. cumbrestoltec.com for all the details. Outdoor enthusiasts flock to Taos for the rock climbing. That’s why New Mexico’s oldest and most experienced rock climbing outfit, Mountain Skills Rock Climbing Adventures, is giving adventure seekers a chance to rock climb and raft along New Mexico’s newest national monument, Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, near Taos. Mountain Skills’ excursions allow amateur, intermediate and advanced climbers to rappel into the Rio Grande Gorge, enjoy lunch along the river, then take a refreshing raft ride on the banks of the Rio Grande with class III rapids during the best whitewater conditions in May and June. Visit www. climbingschoolusa.com/taosrock for more information.


kids eat free Every SUNDAY& MONDAY, Kids eat FREE* with an adult food purchase of $10 or more!

+

*1 Free meal off Kids menu per adult. Fillings extra. Dine in only.

congratulate

Kimberly Thomas

Hap-BEE Hour!

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

MAY 2013

11


Get your

story by GORDON BUNKER

! n O d l i W photos by GAELEN CASEY

When you are ready, just step off the edge

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T

oward the end of the tour, I am perched on the edge of a platform about 20 feet above the forest floor. I contemplate the length of cable before me. It drapes in a gentle curve 1000 feet long and sways a bit left and right in response to wind coming up the mountain slope. Hawk is standing beside me. In a gentle voice he says, “When you are ready, just step off the edge.” I am ready, and I do step off the edge, both literally and figuratively.

Hawk Ferenczy, Director of Ski Patrol and Zipline Tours at the Angel Fire Resort, has mountains and adventure in his blood. And there is something in a name, too, so for him, ziplining is a natural fit. Born in Romania and of Austro-Hungarian heritage, he started working ski patrol in Europe in 1985 and came to the United States in 1999. Complementing his love of skiing, he is also an avid mountaineer and fly fisherman. On managing the zipline, he says, “Safety first. My philosophy is the mountain is not going to walk away. You can always go back to the mountain.” This is apparent from the start, as guide Matt Lemma assists me in donning the harness. It wouldn’t surprise me if you could pick up a school bus with this thing; it’s pretty stout. In terms of fitting and securing the equipment, Zipline personnel take care every step of the way. There’s no guesswork. About his staff, which numbers 14 in summer, Hawk says, “You have to be 100 percent focused. It is very important the guides have proper training.” This is again apparent waiting on the platforms getting ready to zip. In a methodical fashion, each of us gets clipped in with a safety tether. There is be no stepping off the edge until we’re ready. When it’s my turn to zip, Hawk places the trolley over the cable and clips the carabiners of my harness to it. Then he clips the safety tether and inspects all the components, one at a time, to be sure they are secure. With regard to weather conditions, staff receives alerts from the base via a cell phone network. If, for instance, a lightning strike occurs within a 20-mile radius, an alert is issued. If a strike occurs within a ten-mile radius, staff evacuates everyone from the mountain. For good reason, they’re on top of their game. Clipped in and standing on the edge of the first platform, what is front and center in my mind is that I am a land-based animal. Of all the adventures I’ve had, I’ve never stepped off a twenty-foot drop, nor have I flown through space. Perhaps I’m not the first to express some trepidation. Hawk preps me, saying, “That very first moment when you step off the platform,”—and here he looks at me and grins—“then you’re going to fall in love with it.” I am thankful the first zip of the tour is a “short” 120-foot span. Somehow it doesn’t look so short, but I settle my weight into the harness and hold the hand grips on either side of the trolley. Stepping off the edge is a genuine leap of faith. And I do it, and there is acceleration and freedom and air streaming past me, and before I know it I am braking for the platform. Guide Chris Milam is there ready and waiting to help me aboard. “How was that?” he asks. “Wonderful!” I say, but frankly I am at a loss for words (unusual for me). The sensations are so new and a bit overwhelming. This is the closest I’ve come to flying. I look back at the cable. Did I just do that? Yes, I did. We prepare for a 200-foot run. “OK,” I think, “I’m, sort of … ready for this … but I am intrigued and feeling at ease with this business of flying. And the 200-footer … that was great!” Hawk is right. I am falling in love with this.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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Get your

Wild On!

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Next, we graduate to two 700-foot runs. Seven hundred feet? Egads. These sections run through the trees. From the platform, those cables look awfully long; never mind they are 5/8 inch-diameter, capable of supporting many times my weight. The experience is building, and on these runs the speed and feeling of flight and the trees flashing by … all of a sudden, this is a complete hoot! My previous flying experience includes taking the controls of small aircraft, gliding (that was cool) and mostly being strapped in for long hours like a sardine with everyone else, in one or another smelly winged bus. But as far back as I can remember, birds have most fascinated and captured my imagination; they master the air by their gift of wings. Experiencing the zipline is, so far, the next best thing to being a bird. We do a second round on the 700-footers for photographs. Not a problem with me. And so we come around to the 1000-footer. Looking at this cable sweeping above a broad saddle in the heavily forested terrain, anticipating the rush of this experience, a slight tremble winds through me. Nonetheless, I am ready to go. Hawk is by my side. A smile creeps across my face. Taking that step, I am met with instant acceleration to about forty miles per hour. The rollers of the trolley sing on the cable, the pitch increasing with speed. Trees rush by. I’m out there in the air. Broad views toward Wheeler Peak open up. Cross currents of air push me side to side. Wings! Elated! It is as though I have wings! The receiving platform, which looked so far away, is coming up fast, and in a moment the braking system manned by Chris brings me down to landing speed. I’m asked if I’d be willing to do this again for a few more photos. Willing? Did someone say willing? Yeah, I’m more than willing. Let’s go! The grand finale of the tour (which we were not able to sample) is a 1,600-foot dual line, 205 feet off the ground. We take a look at it. This span is well over a quarter mile. “Nobody comes in on that line with a straight face,” says Hawk, and I don’t doubt him. He adds, “Come back this summer. You’ll have to try it.” This is an invitation too good to refuse. Angel Fire Zipline tours start this year on May 17. Reservations are recommended. Special thanks to Hawk Ferenczy, Chris Milam and Matt Lemma for so generously sharing their time, expertise and enthusiasm. For more information or to make a reservation, call 575.377.4320. www.angelfireresort.com/summer/ mountain/zipline.

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

MAY 2013

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TaosHum

In our regular column, Tania Casselle introduces us to the people who make Taos Hum. This month we meet two locals who truly know how to make the most of the great outdoors.

Kim Treiber

s t o r y b y TA N I A C A S S E L L E photos by LENNY FOSTER

Kim Treiber, of the band Kim and the Caballeros, didn’t always sing “big ol’ twangy country music.” She first performed rock and folk, but when she recorded “Blue Eyes Crying in the Rain” as a fun gift for her country-loving mom, the guys in the studio insisted she had a knack for country. “I just started laughing because my mom force-fed me country music as a kid, and I absolutely hated it,” says Treiber. But she listened to the track again and was converted. “I still like to rock out sometimes, but I was swayed over to the other side.” Country is a perfect match for this cowgirl who loves horseback riding around Taos—the Amole Canyon trail is a favorite. She rode English-style as a child in Illinois, but on a family trip to Santa Fe’s Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort and Spa, the teenage Treiber got hooked on Western riding in the mountains. “I still remember my horse’s name, Mescalero. I thought, ‘This is the coolest thing that ever happened to me. One day I’m going to live in Taos and have a horse.’” Treiber jokes that she was destined to move to Taos, where she skied as a child. At age nine she took a photo of a crumbling adobe in Arroyo Seco and wrote on it “My Future Home.” Now she’s lived here for 30 years and recalls asking the first person she met at the Co-op checkout line where she could ride in Taos. The woman replied, “I have a horse. Come to my house.” That’s destiny again! Treiber describes riding her palomino Amigo as her therapy. “In Taos we’re lucky. Everything is just a stone’s throw away. Twenty minutes in any direction and you’re totally there, as far as a horse goes!” She often takes five-day pack trips with friends, where she’s inevitably the campfire singer. “Riding takes you out of everything else. It’s hard not to be fully present when you’re on your horse and in the moment in the mountains.” Kim and the Caballeros play at the Taos Inn on May 28. For complete information on performance dates, venues and CDs (including the award-winning Honky Tonk Breakdown), visit www.kimandthecaballeros.com.

Rey Deveaux

Taos didn’t have a bicycle shop when Rey Deveaux was a kid. He’d buy mail order bikes to assemble himself, then cycle around with his friends on summer nights. Taos had few paved roads back then. “There were not many cars, only one police car and two policemen … they didn’t do much cruising,” Deveaux recalls. “It was a pretty quiet town. They rolled up the sidewalks by 8:30 p.m. On rainy nights we’d strip down to our tennis shoes and skivvies and ride in the rain.” The kids would race through mud puddles as fast as they could, get covered in mud and rinse off with someone’s garden hose. Then they’d camp out in the fields. Once the fourth-generation Taoseño grew up (his grandfather was mayor in 1952), he spent a summer cycling around Europe. That trip inspired his “dream to have a bicycle shop,” although it took another ten years to fulfill the dream and open Gearing Up Bicycle Shop with his partner, Sherry Koch. Now they’ve sold and fixed bikes for more than two decades—and rented bikes to visitors from all over the world. “Bicyclists tend to navigate towards natural beauty and variety of terrain,” says Deveaux. “People from Colorado come down because it’s still the Wild West, still kind of raw. There is never a crowd on our trails. That serenity of being alone is a draw.” When complete beginners rent bikes, Deveaux recommends the Wild Rivers Trail, now part of the new Rio Grande del Norte National Monument. “It’s a 5.5 mile loop. They get spectacular scenery at the deepest, widest part of the Rio Grande.” He might send more experienced riders to the West Rim Trail, the Taos Overlook Trail, or the forest trails he knows so well. Deveaux also has 39 years in the ski patrol under his belt, and he’s trained avalanche rescue dogs. “I’m a doggie boy; I love dogs.” Not surprisingly, after a long day of fresh air, cycling, skiing or hiking the wilds, this mountain man retires early. “I’m in bed by 8:30, and I sleep like a baby.” Gearing Up Bicycle Shop is located at 129 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos. 575.751.0365. www.gearingupbikes.com.

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

MAY 2013

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www.DIVASantaFe.com 125 e place ave suite 78 sena plaza (located downtown) 982-6816


story by JAMES SELBY photos by GABRIELLA MARKS

T

he story you are about to read is quite a different one from what you would have read when Arroyo Vino, a smart and savvy retail shop with the tag line “a purveyor of exceptional wine, spirits and beer,” opened during the Christmas holidays of 2011. Given that the teetering small-market economy of Santa Fe already supports several independent retailers of the ilk, coupled with the reality of Arroyo Vino’s location–– concealed by piñon in a pretty commercial enclave off Camino la Tierra, not exactly on a beaten path––the moxie alone would have made good print. But, for owners Brian Bargsten, sommelier, visionary and something of a showman, and his pragmatic business partner, builder and developer Mike Mabry, it wasn’t nearly enough. They proceeded to put on the area’s most innovative wine events under big-top tents in the namesake arroyo behind the store where they staged tastings of 55 still and sparkling Rosés (this year’s is scheduled for June 15), another with 60 top-notch Italian wines and one with scores of Pinot Noirs, each extravaganza accompanied by live music and food. These pop-up affairs were a prelude to something else that even the partners themselves hadn’t quite defined. Bargsten, 37, lanky and handsomely boyish, engages the world with an unflappable demeanor. He first came to Santa Fe from the Midwest in 2010 to fill a temporary position as wine director at Las Campanas, where he enriched the wine program of the Hacienda Clubhouse and made a reputation for an uncompromising palate, studiousness and confidence to match.

| From the left, Chef Mark Connell, Chloe Grey and Owner Brian Bargsten

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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Arroyo Vino Wine Shop’s newly crafted marble counters, wooden fixtures, flooring and large weathered table bestow a contemporary retail look and browsing ambiance for its keenly chosen, worldly selections of both everyday quaffs and noteworthy labels. Tuesday through Saturday you’ll find Bargsten and his genuinely friendly articulate crew discreetly present, should questions require answers. Contiguous to the retail store is a well-proportioned, airy room where Arroyo Vino began hosting sit-down wine tastings, with food catered by several local chefs. One of these was Mark Connell, who brought acclaim to his talents as chef at Max’s, a small and—alas—fleeting Santa Fe restaurant, where he created multi-course meals using molecular gastronomy and culinary physics gleaned in some of the country’s great restaurants, like The French Laundry. Connell spent three months staging, or volunteering, for chef/owner Thomas Keller in exchange for being taught cutting-edge techniques. “It was tough,” says Connell. “Everyone is your boss.” He learned his lessons well, and word got out that some of the town’s best food was being served at Arroyo Vino soirées. For Bargsten the vision of what to do with the space was becoming palpable. “Initially, we were going to be a wine bar with some food,” says Bargsten, standing in the kitchen with Connell. Bargsten is a foodie, and the two have the simpatico of a pitching coach and his ace. He goes on, “Mark was going to pop in, solo, and make a few things to send out to have with wines. The tipping point was being required to install a hood in the kitchen. We thought, ‘All right, why not do a restaurant?’” (Commercial hoods, complex mechanisms that provide ventilation and fire suppression, cost as much as a new Jetta.) While construction was underway on the kitchen, Mabry crafted a striking pine bar. Even Bargsten’s in-laws rolled up their sleeves, alternating between babysitting their new granddaughter and making wooden café tables. Connell, also a new father, and Bargsten, an accomplished cook, collaborated on a menu made up entirely of small plates, carefully composed of fine ingredients reasonably priced, giving guests the chance to try myriad items that other restaurants would assemble together on a single plate. The entrée is deconstructed at Arroyo Vino. Connell, 33, looking as if he’d be equally as deft on a skateboard as a cutting board, has just taken delivery of a small pig splayed upon a table, destined to be served as crispy suckling pig with seared kale and kimchi. “This is the first local suckling pig I’ve been able to get,” he says, alternately slapping and massaging the carcass with the pride of a gardener with a blue-ribbon pumpkin. “It was strange for me at first,” says Connell. “One of our most popular dishes is truffled potato cake and caramelized Cipollini onion purée. Normally, it would go on a plate as an accompaniment. Now it goes out to the table on its own.” Bargsten picks up, “What’s cool is people are trying things they never would’ve ordered, like chicken liver crostini with mushroom ragu or a brandade.” Slowing down for emphasis, he says, “Simply because someone at their table ordered it and everyone is sharing.”

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Even the menu is divided into small sections. “Bites,” priced from $3 to $6, are deceivingly simple offerings of tasty complexities: marinated olives, pickled vegetables, ricotta due latte, or bread and oil with three artisan oils served in a triptych ramekin. Four varieties of “Cheese” are accompanied by snappy pear mostarda, a type of compote. “Salad” invites diners to try sunchoke, pear and hazelnut—or endive and grapefruit with avocado. “Soup” one evening was asparagus with crab and tarragon. There are nearly a dozen items under the category “Plates,” ranging from comfort food, like polenta with blue cheese fonduta or seamless ravioli with braised short ribs, to the exquisite seared striped bass with olive and potato purée or pan roasted lamb sirloin and preserved Meyer lemon. The Cacio e Pepe (cheese and pepper) is handmade pasta garnished with Pecorino foam. It is to live for. Foams are an “it” culinary escort, to be sure, but they’ve been around. Whip cream is foam. Santa Fe is packed with astute wine professionals, and its populace is discerning. Plenty of restaurants have exceptional wine lists, but here is a wine bar like no other. In addition to the unique core of by-the-glass wines, where you may find a Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the mix, Arroyo Vino allows you to wander in the shop and cherry-pick from the 600 selections in the next room. Pay the retail price plus a nominal service charge or check the chalkboard on the wall for their nightly specials of high-end bottles where the charge is waived. If you’d prefer to sit pat, ask your server, whose rhapsodizing can be as delicious as their suggestions. This elite group working the floor each night share their enjoyment and knowledge with an ease that enhances the dining experience and is yet another example of Bargsten’s attention to detail. In point of fact, this story will be different by the time it has gone to press. Vegetables will be growing in three ample raised beds just beyond the windows, and there are plans to put in bocce ball courts and patio seating. Arroyo Vino is a snap to get to, easier really than a lot of places we think nothing of driving to, like the Chavez Center or Santa Fe High (and it’s a lot prettier). Pop onto 599, take the Camino la Tierra exit; it’ll be on your right in less than two miles with nothing to slow you down but a single stop sign and the view. One café denizen observed, “Many of the dishes were among the best I’ve experienced in my 30 years of dining in Santa Fe.” As destinations go, Arroyo Vino is sending customers over the moon. And the dish ran away with the foam. Arroyo Vino is located at 218 Camino La Tierra (1.9 Miles West of 599 on Camino la Tierra). They are open Tuesday through Saturday. The wine shop hours are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.; the restaurant and wine bar are open from 5 p.m. to closing.

+

>> Connell Close Up

Since Chef Mark Connell hit Santa Fe, he’s shown some true flashes of brilliance. Stints at Max’s and Tomme have endeared him to Santa Fe diners. Read more at LocalFlavorMagazine.com.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

MAY 2013

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Fat Tires:

An Invitation

It s liberating mentally, emotionally and photographer physically. I can t meditate sitting still, but I can meditate going 20 miles per hour on a bike. - Tim Fowler of the Santa Fe Fat Tire Society

A

sk a mountain bicycling enthusiast what’s exciting about the sport, and you’re apt to get an answer like the one I got from Tim Fowler, president of the Santa Fe Fat Tire Society. “It’s a great way to experience and see this incredible land around us. It’s liberating mentally, emotionally and physically. I can’t meditate sitting still, but I can meditate going 20 miles per hour on a bike.”

Or take the response I got from my friend Maggy Schulze, who has clocked over 25,000 mountain bicycling miles. “It’s the thrill of going fast downhill. It’s not as much fun on the road, where it’s all smooth. On a mountain bike, it’s more textured. You’ve got to stay tuned in. You can catch a little air. It’s just wild.” For an unmechanized experience of the mountains and desert, mountain bicycling offers fun and thrills, while requiring some degree of skill. You leave behind roads and noise and enter a world of trails in a natural landscape. Compared to hiking, you cover relatively large amounts of terrain, pedaling uphill and letting gravity do the work on the way down. Modern mountain bicycling originated in the United States, when cyclists in Crested Butte, Colorado; Cupertino, California; and Marin County, California, began retrofitting old Schwinn bikes with fat tires and better brakes. Mountain bicycles as we know them today were first manufactured in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. My first mountain bike was a 1984 Fisher, which I used to ride around Aspen, Colorado. I still have it today in case I need an extra for a visiting friend. As technology improved and manufacturers proliferated, the sport took off. Today you can buy a variety of models in any bicycle shop, but make sure you get a bike with good suspension. “For a woman, the bike geometry is everything,” Schulze warns. “You can be miserable if your bike doesn’t fit right. You want a woman’s saddle. It’s more critical than for a man.” Tim Fowler, who rides every day he can, says, “We have incredible trails and great natural resources around Santa Fe. We have a large existing trail system, a large amount of trails with relatively few trail users.” Throughout New Mexico, he adds, “Locals know what we have. But historically it hasn’t been promoted,” so few tourists come specifically for the cycling. Fowler thinks that might be changing, however. Last year, Santa Fe hosted the International Mountain Bicycling Association’s biennial World Summit, which brought hundreds of off-road enthusiasts to the city and its trails. “Everything I heard out of that was, ‘The biking here is great. We didn’t know.’” If you haven’t been on a mountain bicycle and you want to learn, go with an experienced friend or take a class from the Santa Fe Fat Tire Society. “Part of our mission is to make mountain biking accessible to people in the area and to try to get more people involved,” Fowler says. “We’re not trying to keep the secret to ourselves.” The club hosts after-work rides on Tuesdays or Thursdays. Some mountain bicyclists enjoy racing and stunts, but for recreational riders like Fowler, Schulze and me, there are two kinds of trails: unpaved roads and single tracks. Roads usually provide easier riding, while single tracks (narrow trails) require more skill, attention and, on the downhills, opportunity for excitement. The Santa Fe area has plenty of both. When a trail

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photo: © Dfikar | Dreamstime.com

stor y by BARRY FIELDS


is difficult, with obstacles, greater steepness or switchbacks, it’s considered to be “technical.” Technical riding is more challenging, slower and riskier. When you’re walking or riding local trails, you may not realize how much effort is required to keep them in good condition. Various volunteer organizations—as well the city or National Forest Service—send crews to help with erosion, alignment and new construction. The Santa Fe Fat Tire Society, with about 120 members, regularly helps with trail maintenance. Santa Fe’s trails encompass mountains, foothills and desert. In the mountains, the Pecos Wilderness is closed to bicycles, but everywhere else is a go. You can bicycle up to the wilderness gate on the Windsor Trail, and do the entire trail all the way down to Tesuque. The Borrego-Bear Wallow loop past Hyde Park has a little of everything, including switchbacks. Aspen Vista Road, popular with walkers, climbs to the radio towers on Tesuque Peak, above the ski basin. (I’ve done this twice. It takes about two hours of huffing and puffing to get to the glorious summit. Braking the entire ride down, I had to stop a couple of time to give my fatigued hands a rest.) The Rail Trail starts at the downtown railroad station and heads due south; the in-town section is paved, while the rest of it parallels the railroad tracks past Nine Mile Road, through Eldorado. It ends at Lamy. It’s fairly easy, with low hills and open desert scenery. Stop at the Legal Tender in Lamy for refreshments before heading home. The best known single track system in Santa Fe is the Dale Ball Trails, more than 22 miles of paths looping through the foothills from the Atalaya area in the south, past Hyde Park Road to the north. This isn’t wilderness cycling, as you’re never too far from houses, but trails run the gamut from easy to technical, and the scenery is spectacular. Choose from an easy 30-minute loop to hours of riding. You can’t get lost because every major intersection has a map. I recently bicycled the La Tierra trail system, not far from where I live, for the first time. Like Dale Ball, it’s maintained by the city and has numbered intersections. The trails have been there for years, but I didn’t know about them until trailhead signs appeared on Rt. 599, and I finally decided to see what was there. I wasn’t disappointed. Less extensive and generally easier than the Dale Ball system, it largely consists of single tracks that crisscross gentle hills and arroyos. Within minutes of taking off on a solo cruise, I had amazing 360-degree views of the Sangre de Cristos as well as the Jemez, Sandia and Ortiz mountains. I took a wide loop around the main area, covering sections where I could race along fairly quickly and others where it was rocky and twisting. Alternative technical sections are marked, and there’s even a park for jumping. It was so beautiful I returned with my girlfriend for a pre-sunset walk. Caja del Rio, out past the city recreational facilities and extending north of Buckman Road, is far more extensive than either Dale Ball or La Tierra, but less developed. “There’s a ridiculous amount of potential there,” Fowler summarizes. “Several times, I’ve parked my car at an arbitrary spot, taken off on an old road and bicycled through rolling desert while hoping I’d be able to find my way back. The forest service is in the process of improving Dead Dog Trail off Buckman Road, and there are many other possibilities.”

On a mountain bike, it s more textured. You ve got to stay tuned in. You can catch a little air. It s just wild. - Maggy Schulze

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+

© Malbright | Dreamstime.com

Maggy Schulze often bicycles in the area of Cañada de los Alamos. She calls it “the best kept secret” but cautions, “You’d better be real handy with your topo map and your compass.” A few times I’ve followed her on seemingly endless old logging roads and animal tracks. You can even reach Glorieta Baldy from the parking lot at the end of Forest Road 79. These are only some of the local possibilities. Now that evenings are longer and the weather warmer, hop on your bike and take a spin any time of day. Powered by your own legs, your fat tires will take you away from the crowds and roads, providing scenery, exhilaration and a sense of accomplishment. Consider it an invitation.

>> More to Explore Mountain biking experts from local bike shops weigh in on their favorite area trails at LocalFlavorMagazine.com

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Competitive Prices Largest Selection Friendly Staff Over 20 varieties of keg beer Wine tasting every Saturday 4pm - 7pm

Largest Selections Friendly Staff Something for every Taste

Sol Harvest Farm (Our on-site farm) Agri-Cultura Lemitar Green Chile Farm Akin Farm Losack Farms Amyo Farms Marble Brewery ARCA Organics Milagro Vineyards Beneficial Farms Montanita Co-op Blackstone Ranch Moore Family Farms Honey Farm Ne Nepantla Farms B's Hone Carrizozo Orchard Old Windmill Dairy Casa Rondeña Organic Del-Valle Chispas Preferred Produce East Mountain Organics Rasband Dairy Fair Field Farmer Rio Grande Community Farms Four Daughters' Ranch Rosales Produce Fresh Produce ABQ Sab Sabroso Fr Gemini Farms Sage bakehouse Granja Para Manana Sangre de Cristo Organic Gruet Winery Schweback Farm Heidi’s Raspberry Farm Simply Honey Henry’s Farm SKarsgard Farms Hip Chik Farms St. Francis Farms Hobo Ranch Sungreen Living Foods King Orchard Swans' Garden Kyzer Farm Sweet Grass Beef La Cumbre Brewing Co. Talus Wind Ranch La Montanita Coop Tamaya La Paloma Greenhouse Taos Pueblo Le Quiche Tucumcari Mountain Cheese Factory Che

Presently Stocking

Temperature Controlled Wine Cellar

Over 3,500 Wines

Wine Manager on Beer Duty Choices 950

Single Malt Scotches We 105 also carry over 20 varieties of keg beer 240 Types of Vodka Wine tasting every Saturday 4pm - 7pm 230 Tequilas 136 Types of Rum

Presently Stocking: Over 3500 Wines 800 Beer Choices 105 Single Malt Scotches

Temperature Controlled Wine Cellar

220 Types of Vodka 222 Tequilas

Something for every taste... FINE WINE & LIQUOR

136 Types of Rum

Est. 1981 Conveniently located 12 easy miles Established 1981 north of Santa Fe and on the way to all your favorite destinations in Northern New Mexico...

505.455.2219

kokoman@cybermesa.com 505-455-2219 • kokoman@cybermesa.com 34 Cities of Gold Road • Hwy 84/285 HwyPojoaque 84/285 •87506 Pojoaque 12 miles North of Santa Fe

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8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NMN87114

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Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

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Three days of Live Entertainment

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SATURDAY Joni & The Combo / Classic Mixx Band SUNDAY Red Wine / Nosotros MONDAY Ian McFeron / Candice Reyes Jazz 20/ADULT w/I.D. Includes Souvenir Glass Under 21 FREE. Must be accompanied by parent or legal guardian. $

Sample large variety of New Mexico Wines Food vendors with international flavors Arts & Crafts

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

MAY 2013

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Harvesting Change story by ERIN BROOKS

A student of wine takes a look at the natural wine movement and why the ensuing contentious debate is important to you.

I

n a world where processed foods are ubiquitous and the same unpronounceable ingredients like polydimethylsiloxane can be found in your shampoo, caulk and food (ever had McDonald’s chicken nuggets?), a student of wine like me begins to wonder if there are some nasty things lurking in my glass. The FDA and TTB (the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) allow a disturbing number of ingredients besides grapes to be added to a wine or used in the winemaking process. Consumers are becoming more aware and concerned with the products they purchase and how they’re made. Just as organic, sustainable, local and farm-to-table food movements have gained momentum, the vinous world is witnessing the rise of wines made from organic and Biodynamically farmed grapes. There is also a strengthening niche movement for natural wines. The term “natural wine” is causing a stir, not least because many people feel that all wines are natural in the first place (grapes are fermented by living microorganisms). In general terms, natural winemaking involves little or no intervention in the vineyard or the winery, whether chemical or technological (like using reverse osmosis to lower alcohol levels). Specifically, nonintervention can mean using wild, as opposed to cultivated yeasts and foregoing the use of both new oak barrels and sulfur dioxide. However, there is no legal definition of what a “natural wine” encompasses, in terms of grape growing or winemaking, and things become even more confusing when you throw in terms like organic and Biodynamic. While the terms “organic” and “Biodynamic” are codified, each country has a different definition, regulating body and set of rules for what is allowed both in the vineyard and the winery. Jancis Robinson states in The Oxford Companion to Wine that organic viticulture is “a system of grape growing broadly defined as shunning manmade compounds such as fertilizers, fungicides and pesticides, as well as anything that has been genetically modified.” In the EU, wines may only be labeled, “made from organically grown grapes.” This means that certification covers vineyard practices but not production practices—there is no guarantee of producers’ practices inside the winery. In the US and a few other countries, producers may choose to label wines “organic.” Robinson explains that wines labeled “organic” must be made from organically grown grapes as well as produced without the addition of sulfur dioxide. This is close to the nonintervention elucidated by proponents of natural wines. However, less than one percent of wines produced with organically grown grapes are labeled “organic” because of the risk of spoilage (I’ll give you the low down on sulfur in a moment). Biodynamics, first explained by philosopher and scientist Rudolf Steiner, takes things further and incorporates a spiritual and, to some, mystical element. According to Jamie Goode in The Science of Wine: From Vine to Glass, the key to Biodynamics is “considering the farm in its entirety as a living system, and seeing it in the context of the wider pattern of lunar and cosmic rhythms.” In this view, the soil is itself an organism, so instead of synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, a series of special preparations (made up of varied materials such as stinging nettles, manure, quartz, yarrow and oak bark) are applied to the soil according to the cycles of nature. Partly because it is undefined and can be confused with other terms, “natural wine” has become a hugely polarizing issue. Some folks have denounced intervention in winemaking entirely, while others like renowned Rhône producer Michel Chapoutier denounce proponents

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of natural wine as “out of touch hippies making defective wines.” Part of the rub lies in the effect of sulfur dioxide on wine. Sulfur plays an important role in winemaking, particularly as an antioxidant and anti-microbial agent. Without added sulfur wines tend to become oxidized— investment in the vineyards, hard work at harvest, and the expense of vinification and cellaring might yield vinegar instead of vino if oxidation goes too far. Sulfur also kills bacteria in wine, which can cause spoilage. On the other side of the coin, too much sulfur can make a wine smell like matchsticks and burnt rubber. Also, some people suffer allergic reactions to sulfur and so these days bottles require labeling that let consumers know a wine contains sulfur, although this is a bit self-defeating— sulfur is a by-product of fermentation, and all wines contain some degree of the naturally occurring element. I experienced firsthand the success and failure of natural wines on a recent trip to the Suisun Valley (just outside Napa), where I visited the Scholium Project, headed by Abe Schoener, a professor of philosophyturned-winemaker. Abe practices natural winemaking’s


finer points: he does not add sulfur, but he also doesn’t top off his aging wines, which means they become oxidized. He favors simple cold water for cleaning in the winery, shunning common hygiene practices. Abe defines himself as a student whose projects are sometimes experiments. I tasted barrel samples of several of his wines, including a Sauvignon Blanc that had been fermented on its skins, giving it a strong tannic character, as well as a white wine made from Cinsault, a grape usually used for making red wines. Some of the wines were yummy (I enjoyed a light, juicy and fruity Gewürztraminer) but others were entirely undrinkable. If I was unsure what volatile acidity smelled and tasted like in a wine, I’m certain of it now—it’s like trying to drink a glass of vinegar. Walking this line between success and failure seems to be an inherent aspect of natural winemaking, and why some people are so averse to the idea. While working on this article, I tried another natural wine: Frank Cornelissen’s Munjabel 8MC, a Nerello Mascalese from Mount Etna in Sicily. Cornelissen eschews absolutely any intervention in the vineyard and winery, which for him actually includes organic and Biodynamic techniques. He uses no compost on the land, no barrels in the winery, and instead ages some of his wines in neutral tubs or buried terracotta vessels. I enjoyed the wine for its weirdness: aromas of hothouse and perfume, herbs and dirt. Others who tasted it were completely put off, and one person dubbed it, “drinking potpourri.” Natural wines like Schoener’s and Cornelissen’s beg the question: why do we drink wine? Is wine only valid if it’s delicious and brings us palatable pleasure, or can a wine also be appreciated solely for its intellectual and experimental value? I can’t come to a conclusion about which side to take, but I can understand that this debate is important. Can one take natural wines too far, into the land of dogma? Yes. Many of Cornelissen’s wines don’t even make it through shipping because of the way they’re made. But at the same time, do we want to drink wines souped up with additives like Mega Purple, a concentrate used to enhance color and texture? Consumers have a right to know what’s going into their wines, both in terms of additives and process. I spoke with Derek Werner, at La Casa Sena wine shop, who made the point that a better template for vetting wines is knowledge of the producer, not wine labels or certifications, which can be an ordeal for a producer to obtain and cost a pretty penny. Derek says, “Things like estate ownership of vineyards and lower production levels can be just as important for understanding how nonintervention can be actualized.” Matthew Slaughter of Arroyo Vino agrees with Derek. As someone who buys organic food and practices a vegetarian lifestyle, product knowledge is hugely important for him, and he likewise chooses wine producers for their commitment to responsible grape growing and integrity in the winemaking process. He points out that the role of the wine merchant is important for providing consumers with the information they need to make informed decisions. He says, “Part of the role of the wine merchant, or of me standing on my two feet in Arroyo Vino, is talking

with customers about the wines. You can’t always find information on the label and without the merchant, the consumer is left in the dark.” Santa Feans have always been concerned with the quality of their food and have been part of the organic, local and farm-to-table food movements. It follows that we are concerned with the quality and integrity of the wines we choose to drink. I can proudly say that our wine shops carry a huge array of sustainably and ecologically focused wines. Susan’s Fine Wine and Spirits and Kokoman Fine Wine and Liquor each have a specific section for organic wines, as well as plenty of other bottles that aren’t labeled in this way from producers like Frog’s Leap in Rutherford and Alois Lageder in the Alto Adige in Italy. La Casa Sena carries Robert Sinskey from Napa and Bonny Doon, whose wines are made using Biodynamically farmed grapes and whose winemaker, Randall Grahm, follows a handsoff philosophy in the winery. Kelly Liquor Barn offers plenty of choices—ask for Denisio and he’ll help you find something you can feel good about buying. A large portion of the selection at Arroyo Vino comes from importers like Giuliana Imports and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, companies concerned with the integrity and sustainability of the wines they import. There’s no excuse for not trying them—these wines are everywhere. Give natural (or organic, or Biodynamic) wines a try. Whether you love or loathe them, the most important thing is that people are talking about them. Discourse is a powerful tool for change, and what’s in our favorite beverage is just as important as what’s in our food. Cheers!

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

MAY 2013

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Cazuela s

s t o r y b y K AT E G E RW I N photos by GAELEN CASEY

M

icrobreweries have been rapidly growing businesses all over the United States for many years now, and New Mexico is no exception. Occasionally, they pop up where you least expect them, like in the case of Cazuela’s Seafood and Mexican Grill, in Rio Rancho. This hometown hidden treasure has been a staple for over 14 years, seven in its current location on Sara Road, across from Intel, where it was forced to relocate after a motorcycle crashed through the wall of its previous home.

Recently, owner Francisco Saenz decided to take a leap of faith. Looking for ways to expand his business and enhance the guest experience while maintaining Cazuela’s homemade theme, Francisco pondered the idea of brewing his own beer. “The area doesn’t have a microbrewery/Mexican Restaurant combination,” he says, “and I noticed flaws at the existing microbreweries around town, like parking problems, so I thought we could do it ourselves.” So beginning in December, Cazuela’s started serving hand-crafted brews, created on the premises by brewer Mike Campbell, a well-known entity in the local brewing circles who has more than 20 years brewing experience in Albuquerque, Santa Fe and Tennessee. The process didn’t happen overnight. Francisco has invested around $500,000 and over a year remodeling the restaurant, finding the right brewmaster and purchasing equipment—“which proved to be quite a challenge,” he says. “I wanted to find the right brew kettle and buy the best equipment I could.” This decision lead him to acquire equipment from out of the country. In December, he began serving the craft brews and is more than thrilled with the reaction.

| Francisco and Rosa Saenz, Dara Ocha

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“We are out of our Mexican lager and can’t make it fast enough,” Mike proclaims with a smile. “It was gone within three and a half weeks of release.” So far, the restaurant has been through ten different batches (14 kegs in each batch), ranging in flavor from the light and crisp Acapulco Gold lager to the Inebriator double bock, a strong, dark-roasted malt that has great complexity without being overwhelming. My favorite in the sampling was the Piedre del Fuego, a cream ale into which Mike drops chunks of granite heated on fire to create a caramelized toffee flavor that is still light and stimulating. The Chupacabra, an IPA, isn’t as hoppy as I had hoped, but I love the bitterness that can be so off-putting to others, so I can see where this would be a good selling point. Hand-crafted beer is not the only thing homemade at Cazuela’s—the restaurant is also known for its tortillas, both flour and corn, made fresh in-house. The homemade salsa is an authentic delight, bright, smoky and acidic, with the right amount of spice. The chips are deep-fried, thick and crispy, and on my second visit I decided the nachos were a must, based on the chips alone. I chose the chicken version, and although they were good, I couldn’t get past the cheese which appeared to be processed—a bit out of place with the fresh homemade ingredients I had experienced in all the other dishes. Cazuela’s serves breakfast, and I will certainly be back to try the chilaquiles so I can get my hands on some more of those chips. A few years ago, Cazuela’s added mariscos (seafood) to its already abundant menu selections. The tostada de camarones is a pleasing combination of citrusmarinated shrimp, onions and avocado, but the real stand-out is the little cup of green sauce that accompanies the dish: a mixture of cilantro, lime juice, onions and chiles, served on the side to be added at the diner’s discretion. I found myself enjoying the combination and toying a bit with the ratios to find my perfect balance. I can certainly see myself sitting out on the newly renovated 5,000-square-foot patio during the summer enjoying ceviche, crisp Mexican lager and the beautiful view of the Sandias. Cazuela’s most popular item is the molcajetes. Named after the porous, three-legged stone bowl used to cook it (basically, it’s the Mexican version of a mortar, as in mortar and pestle), the dish consists of grilled top sirloin, shrimp, mushrooms, onions, bell peppers and cheese. The molcajete is heated to a high temperature, and when the food comes to the table it is bubbling hot. (In fact, when I ordered it, 30 minutes later the food was still hot, and I could feel the heat radiating from the bowl.) I know why this is Cazuela’s most popular dish, and I can really only explain it in one way: On my second visit to I wanted to try something else, I really did, but I just couldn’t get the molcajetes off my mind. I waited to see if anyone at the table would order them, but I wasn’t that lucky. So I couldn’t resist, and again, I ordered the molcajetes. And again, I wasn’t disappointed. At all. The carne adovada burrito was especially flavorful and can be accompanied with mild or spicy chile sauce (we were told that the latter was “very, very hot”). It is served with refried beans and Spanish rice, which to me is typically never a stand-out at Mexican restaurants. However, this was an exception. The refritos were some of the best I have had in the area, and I even took the rest of the rice home, which is odd because taking home leftovers is something I rarely do. The service was friendly and efficient. Our waiter came back to make sure he got our special requests correct and was more than happy and willing to accommodate our needs. Even though we were late in our arrival and amongst the last few tables to leave, he encouraged us to take our time and enjoy ourselves. He even made us feel comfortable enough to order dessert. The tres leches cake was good, moist but not soggy, as sponge cake soaked in milk can so easily become.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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Cazuela s

CERTIFIED ARBORISTS Tree Services • Lawn Care • Fully Equipped to Handle ANY Size Job! n n n n

Francisco has hit the nail on the head with his recent addition of craft brews—not to mention the remodeled patio, which offers a striking setting complete with a fountain and view. And if you don’t want to stare off into the Sandias, you can watch the fun at the batting cages—yep, batting cages—attached to the rear of the restaurant and even hit a few balls while you’re there. As summer approaches and the locals begin to realize how many good microbrews are available, I can see the patio being a perfect spot to bring the family, enjoy homemade food and watch the kids hit a few baseballs. Cazuela’s is located at 4051 Sara Rd SE in Rio Rancho. 505.994.9364. www.cazuelasmexicangrill.com.

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Joy KillS Sorrow Modern American String Band

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

MAY 2013

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QuietWaters story by GAIL SNYDER

photos by KITTY LEAKEN

There is another world, but it is in this one. ~Paul Elward

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The sky was vast, blue, a handful of stark white clouds the day we finally got to float the river. For three weeks we’d scheduled and cancelled, scheduled and cancelled. It was beginning to feel like a comedy of errors. Relentless spring winds, their maximum gusts threatening to sweep away the house and the doghouse with the dog inside, kept preventing our trip. Photographer Kitty Leaken and I were frustrated; still, Michael Hayes, feeling no less thwarted, continued to insist we needed to find a window of no wind. Owner of Bernalillo’s four-year-old float trip company with the haiku-like name Quiet Waters Paddling, Michael’s number one concern for all of his guests is safety. “Ninety-nine percent of the people who sign on with us experience the river from inside the boat,” he assures us as we’re strapping on our requisite life jackets. Unlike its fiercely tumultuous alter ego out of Taos, this 18-mile section of the Rio Grande between Bernalillo and the northern edge of Albuquerque is rated classone, benign-est of the benign. Still, accidents can happen—and do. Because he’s passionate about paddling, and especially on the Middle Rio Grande, which he calls New Mexico’s “long-neglected treasure,” it’s important to Michael that everyone’s first time be spectacularly fun—but in a serene way. In addition to Kitty and me, there are three guys in our group. One of them, Casey, decided that this trip is what they would do to help their friend Ed celebrate his 52nd birthday. Grab adventure on the river. “I just told them we were going. I made our reservations and here we are,” Casey says. Like us, all three are novices. But they’re definitely game. When Michael gives Casey, Ed and David their choice of canoe or kayak, they’re unanimous on the kayak option. It’s canoes for us. We need both hands free—Kitty’s for shooting photographs, mine for taking notes. Everything gets loaded up, then we climb into the van and are transported to our put-in site. Stephanie DeHerrera is my paddler/guide; Michael is Kitty’s. “If you feel the boat tipping,” Michael warns us during orientation on the beach, “lean into it. I know that’s counterintuitive. In fact, even though I say this at least three times to anyone I take out before we go, most people, if their kayak or canoe starts to tip, will lean the other way. But trust me.” He also advises us about what to do when confronted with low hanging branches, submerged logs, underwater rocks and other obstacles. “A river always has its own idea of where it wants things to go,” he tells us cheerfully, describing how we know where to go according to the river’s depth, flow and other variables. “Rivers don’t go straight; they meander all over the place,” he adds when instructing us about what to do when the river bends. “Always look ahead!” And, with that, we’re launched, Michael’s canoe in the lead, Stephanie’s in the center, the kayaks bobbing and nudging each other as the guys get the feel for steering with their paddles. The river’s idea of where it wants us to go is a tranquil wonderland full of friendly, giant cottonwoods leaning toward us from either bank. “These were propagated in the flood of 1941,” Michael calls out. “They die in a drought.” Stephanie points excitedly at a blue heron ahead. “See it? And there’s one who likes to lead us down the river,” she says. “If we stop, he stops, too, then continues on when we do.” “What else might we see?” someone asks. In an enthusiastic jumble, both Stephanie and Michael answer: beavers, spiny soft-shell turtles, ducks and Canadian geese, white pelican, ibis as well as catfish, white carp and the occasional trout. “A few hundred sandhill crane wintered in the bosque this winter,” Michael tells us. “This river was like a wildlife refuge! In a canoe, you can paddle silently and come right up upon birds nesting.” “We had a big mean goose earlier this spring,” Stephanie says. “She’d crouch way low in the nest and hiss at you.” She points to some passing boulders where the nest was. “After her babies hatched, she still crouched down but a tiny yellow head bobbed up at us. She must’ve taken them away right after that, because they’re gone now. Those babies can swim from the day they’re born.” Ed’s way out in front of us all now, jubilantly having hit his stride. Stephanie calls out, “You look like you were born to this, Ed!” and he turns to grin back. There’s a rhythm to paddling, Stephanie tells me. “It’s kind of a dance.” Our canoe meanders with the river in a graceful, gentle pace, our bodies and minds relaxed, water sloshing

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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against the canoe as a tiny dust devil spirals up in the distance. Larger clouds nudge against the little puffy ones. We stare lazily at the lovely, layered cloud atlas they create. “I thought the river would smell kind of like a fish tank,” I say, and Stephanie and I both laugh. “Yeah, no, it’s—what?” she answers. “The smell is more wet earth, wood, uh, with wafts of sagebrush,” she guesses. Reminiscing about growing up in Taos, she credits whitewater rafting experiences with keeping her out of trouble in high school. “Michael takes a group of kids at risk out on the river once a year and shows them something else than all it is they’ve grown up knowing,” she goes on. “So one or two of them, at least, will end up making better choices in their lives, like I did, because of that.” Two sandpipers sail together over our heads. Michael points to a peregrine falcon. Stephanie shows me a beaver slide carved into the bank as we pass. Just then, a light breeze we’ve been enjoying suddenly develops sharp fangs as a line of whitecaps ripples across the river’s skin. The current gathers force, the wind throws our hair around and belligerently turns the canoe sideways, heading us into the bank. Stephanie fights back time and again; the wind is stronger. Noticing Kitty paddling now with Michael, I offer to paddle, too, and at first, Stephanie refuses, toughing it out on her own. But when the current tosses the canoe up and back down, my pen flies out of my hand and into the drink. “See?” I yell. “Now I have no choice!” And triumphantly I pick up the paddle. Once we get ourselves back on course, Stephanie suddenly shouts, “Look!” There in the water, floating on the surface, is my pen. Laughing, she deftly maneuvers us over and pulls it out. Then we catch up to the rest of the group, round the last couple of bends, and, as the wind gets really serious, we arrive at Coronado State Park. Over at a picnic table in one of the park’s shelters, we all enthuse over how great that was. A native of Michigan who’s been paddling all his life, Michael says, “I never get tired of hearing how much people enjoy the Rio!” In 2007, he arrived in Albuquerque with a pop-up camper and two canoes and soon fell in love with the Middle Rio Grande. He was shocked that more native New Mexicans had never ventured into its waters—had never even attempted to. His mission for Quiet Waters Paddling is to introduce as many people as he can, tourists and natives alike, to the indescribably positive experiences they can have touring the Rio Grande in a canoe or a kayak. “This river is the lifeblood of our region,” he says. “Water behaves just like the blood in our bodies—it’s the circulatory system of the earth. Moisture from the oceans is collected as it evaporates in the clouds. Clouds deposit the moisture in the mountains as snow, and when that melts, the water slowly makes its way back down to the oceans. I believe that’s why we’re more profoundly connected when we’re on the river—it takes you away. I brought a group of surgeons on a moonlight float once, and afterward, sitting around the campfire, one of them sighed deeply. ‘That was like a mind vacation!’ he said.” We all concur. In fact, Ed’s so sold on the experience, he’s going to buy his own kayak. (Well, it is his birthday.) But first, Stephanie’s taking Ed and his friends back down to finish the rest of the river tour. In this wind?! “Heck, yeah!” David says.

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For more information on Quiet Waters Paddling Adventures, go to www.quietwaterspaddling.com. A Taste of Life in New Mexico

MAY 2013

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Still Hungry?

story by MANDY MARKSTEINER

The Spanish Table

The Spanish Table is the go-to place for professional chefs who feature Mediterranean cuisine in their restaurants. Serious home cooks can rub shoulders with them while finding all the ingredients and advice they need to tackle tapas, paella and more. Going to the Spanish Table is like taking a trip to Spain or Portugal—save room in your suitcase for one of their stunning ceramic serving dishes.

Spring Veggie Paella
 2 cups Bomba rice (or 3 cups Valencia rice)
 6 cups vegetable stock
 6 cloves garlic, finely minced
 1 Tablespoon pimentón (dulce or agridulce
) 1 large onion, finely chopped
 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped
 2 medium tomatoes, halved 
small pinch of saffron
 ½ cup white wine
 ¼ cup olive oil (or more), to coat bottom of pan 8 oz jar artichoke hearts, quartered
 14 oz cooked Spanish Granja beans
 1 bunch asparagus spears, cut diagonally into bite-size pieces 
 1 cup green peas, fresh or frozen. Piquillo peppers cut into strips.
 Alioli spiked with piment d’Espelette or harissa, for serving. (Optional)
 Lemon wedges, to serve   1.) Measure stock into a saucepan. Bring to boil and reduce to low. Start the grill for the paella. 
 2.) Toast saffron in a small pan until aromatic. Add white wine, bring to boil, then remove from heat and set aside to infuse. 3.) Heat paella pan over medium heat on the grill or paella burner. Add oil, then add onion, garlic and bell pepper. Stir well and reduce heat to medium low. Using a cheese grater, grate the tomato halves over the paella (this will produce a fine pulp and leave the peel behind). Stir well and cook until onions are soft and mixture becomes saucy; this is your sofrito. Add the pimentón and stir. 
4.) Add rice to the sofrito and stir to coat well. Add stock and saffronwine mixture. Add artichoke hearts and beans. Stir to combine all ingredients, then put down your spoon and allow rice to cook undisturbed. Lay piquillo strips over paella. Adjust heat so that paella is bubbling gently. 
 After 10 minutes, sprinkle asparagus and peas over paella and gently push them into the rice with a spoon. 
 5.) Remove from heat when rice is just cooked (about 30 minutes). Garnish with lemon wedges and serve with alioli. Serves 6 The Spanish Table is located at 109 N. Guadalupe Sreet in Santa Fe. 505.982.0243. www.spanishtable.com.

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Go Global on the Grill

T

o celebrate the start of outdoor grilling season, we rounded up some unexpected recipes that will add sizzle to your summer party. Our chefs have covered the patio-party basics—burgers, watermelon and green beans are all represented—while bringing their own cultural backgrounds to the table, so each of these recipes has an interesting ethnic flair.

Raaga Paddy Rawal learned to cook at his mother’s side while growing up in Mumbai, India. When he moved to the U.S. in 2001 he brought along his passion for northern Indian fare. Santa Feans especially love the restaurant’s stunning array of vegetarian and vegan dishes that subtly incorporate some local Southwest elements. It’s a great place for sharing dishes and new flavors.

Summer Watermelon Salad ½ a watermelon, cubed ½ onion, sliced thinly 1 ½ cups chopped black olives ½ cup feta cheese (optional) 1 bunch mint, chopped 1 lime olive oil to taste salt and pepper to taste In a bowl, mix olive oil and lime juice and add to the cubed watermelon. Add the red onion, olives and mint and toss. Sprinkle feta cheese to taste. Season with salt and pepper. Serve chilled. Raaga is located at 544 Agua Fria Street in Santa Fe. 505.820.6440. www. raagacuisine.com.


Yanni s What can be better than feeling the summer breeze on your face as you enjoy a Greek martini and some saganaki? This year, Albuquerque’s venerable Greek restaurant Yanni’s is celebrating its 20th anniversary with a remodel of the Opa bar. The new lounge, Lemoni, will capture the lively Nob Hill street scene and the fresh open air.

Prosciutto-Wrapped Jumbo Scallops with Arugula Salad and Port-Soaked Figs For the scallops: 6 jumbo sea scallops (raw) 6 slices thinly cut prosciutto olive oil pepper paprika 2 skewers For the salad: 2 cups fresh arugula ¼ cup dried figs ¼ cup goat cheese ½ Pink Lady apple, julienned ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 cup port juice of 1 lemon balsamic reduction 1.) Cut the prosciutto into long strips, almost like bacon strips, 1-1 ½ inches wide. Wrap the scallops with the prosciutto and place 3 scallops on each skewer. Drizzle with olive oil and add a pinch of paprika and a pinch of pepper. Place onto a hot grill. Cook each side for about 2 1/2 minutes or until desired doneness. 2.) For the salad, place dried figs over low heat with port (Yanni’s uses Taylor Fladgate 10). Let figs and port reduce for at least 30 minutes, until the figs are tender and juicy. Let figs cool. (This can be done a day ahead.) Serve figs at room temperature. 3.) In a large bowl, mix arugula and julienned apples with juice of 1 lemon and extra virgin olive oil. Place the salad on 2 large plates and crumble goat cheese on top, then place the figs around the rim of dish and top with scallops. Drizzle the entire dish with balsamic reduction. Yanni’s is located at 3109 Central Avenue NE in Albuquerque. 505.268.9250. www.yannisandopabar.com.

Anasazi Restaurant The Anasazi Restaurant, just steps from Santa Fe’s historic plaza, offers some of the best people-watching in the city. The patio is the place to see and be seen. Inside, don’t miss the stunning collection of Native American art—and certainly don’t miss Chef Juan Bochenski’s signature dish, Duck Enchilada Molé.

Anasazi Truffle Buffalo Burger with Vermont Cheddar, Apple-Smoked Bacon and Chile Mayonnaise Truffle-Mushroom Tapenade 1 lb whole Crimini mushrooms, washed 2 ounces truffle trimmings 3 garlic cloves 4 sprigs of thyme 2 onions, finely chopped 1 ounce dried Kalamata olives (soaked for 1 hour and dried overnight in an oven at 120˚f ) ½ ounce truffle oil 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated In a big casserole, sauté mushrooms with olive oil until golden brown. Add onions, garlic, thyme and olives and continue cooking for 15 minutes.Add the truffle oil and Parmesan, making sure the mushrooms are dried. Process the mixture into a fine paste or alternatively let it cool down and chop by hand. Season with salt and pepper. Chile Mayonnaise 1 ounce chipotle adobo 4 ounces mayonnaise ½ ounce Dijon mustard 1/6 bunch chives, finely chopped orange juice to taste salt and pepper Combine and season with salt, pepper and orange juice. Red Wine Escabeche Onions 3 cups red wine 1 cup red wine vinegar 1/3 bunch thyme ¼ bunch rosemary 1 lb red onions, peeled and sliced in thin rings Bring liquids to boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the herbs and onion rings. Return to boil and reserve. Onion should be kept inside the cooking liquid so it absorbs the bright red color. Buffalo Patties and Applewood-Smoked Bacon 14 ounces minced buffalo sirloin (85% lean meat/15 % fat) Make patties of 7 ounces. Season with salt and pepper. Crisp bacon in oven at 350° for 5 minutes. (2 slices per patty) Putting it all together: Season the patties with salt and pepper and grill to your liking. Add the Vermont cheddar cheese slice and melt. Dress with truffle tapenade. Dress a brioche bun with the chile mayonnaise. Add the cooked patty and close with the other bun. Garnish plate with 2 leaves of butter lettuce, 2 slices of tomatoes, pickled onions and the crispy bacon. Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi is located at 113 Washington Avenue in Santa Fe. 505. 988.3030. www.rosewoodhotels.com.

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time to get outside...

505.984.7915 | innatloretto.com

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Bouquet of Roses by Chuparosa

Chuparosa

Patio Opens Mother’s Day Call for Mother’s Day Brunch reservations Sunday, May 12 ~ 11:30 am to 3 pm Featuring Compound Classics & Seasonal Specialties

Open 7 Days a Week 227 Don Gaspar • Santa Fe in the Santa Fe Village t 505-988-4116 • c 505-670-5591 like us on

The Compound Restaurant: A Family Tradition 653 Canyon Road Santa Fe 982.4353 compoundrestaurant.com

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Local Flavor Magazine: May 2013  

Local Flavor's annual outdoor issue. This May we feature river paddling, ziplining and mountain biking in northern New Mexico

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