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DECEMBER 2010 ISSUE NO. 1

BUFFALO EDITION


Proper Etiquette for

ALCOHOLIC GLASSES

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LOCAL BREWS beer glasses

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A history of alcohol buffalo breweries and the dry era

In 1811 Joseph Webb opened the first brewery of Buffalo in Black Rock, which lasted till 1812 when it was assumed burned with most of the city during the War of 1812. After the war Buffalo began to build itself back up to become of the most

Phoenix Brewery

was and is located on Washington and Virginia Street.

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prosperous cities of the early 20th century, and with it’s prosperity and location came along with it a rich history of one of it’s leading industries, brewing beer. In the 1920’s a new law changed the way a national economy would do it’s business. Prohibition would take 1400 breweries down to 700 in a decade and seven would only survive the twenty from Buffalo. Some would turn into bottling companies and others would turn to soda and dairy products. It was a whole new world for a major industry. At first everyone thought the alcohol industry was dead, but it soon became apparent that this was not the case. Prohibition had sparked “The Second Wave” of microbreweries and a lively black market trade in alcohol. Alcohol had become a form of currency for the second time in American history, being traded for money and favors. These traders, who were the manufacturers and transporters of the illegal alcohol, were called “bootleggers.” The term came from smugglers and Indian traders who hid liquor inside their tall boots and dates back to colonial times in the South. In 1733, the Georgia Colony had enacted a prohibitive law regarding alcohol, making it

the first dry colony. General James Ogelthorpe was charged with enforcing this new law, but bootleggers from the Carolinas thwarted his efforts. The city of Buffalo, like many other American cities, had its share of smuggling stories and speakeasies. According to Buffalo mayor F.X. Schwab in his 1922 annual state of the city adress there were 8,000 “soft drink” places where illegal liquor and beer could be obtained and consumed.With the city’s unique geographic position along the Canadian border, the temptation for smuggling was great. Unlike the rest of the country Buffalonians could cross the border to Canada, where liquor was still legal, for a drink if they wanted to. If they were brave and clever they could smuggle some back home with them. Most of the smuggled liquor would end up at speakeasies, a common hangout for gangsters. During these times customers drank whatever the speakeasies had to offer. Beer was not as readily available as moonshine because beer was harder to make. Despite this fact, people still produced a low quality beer and although it was not as tasteful as beer that came before it people embraced it as the same. Meanwhile, brewers had to figure out what they were going to do now that it was illegal to brew beer with more than 1/2 of 1% alcohol by volume. options included: “near beer” (a low alcohol beer), non-malt beverages (soda pop), fruit juices, yeast products, vinegar, malt extract, breakfast foods (cereals), commercial feeding stuffs, dairy products and industrial alcohol. Whatever the brewers did to survive, legal or illegal, they all had to deal with the developing concept of the packaged product. Most beer

Ulrich's opened in 1868. It was owned by Weyands and the Phoenix Brewery between 1870 and 1910. Back then, a bar existed on every corner that served as outlets as breweries selling only company beer.

LOCAL BREWS

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prohibition in buffalo


“A modern fermenter (above) compared to an “at-home” fermenter (right).

before Prohibition was sold in draft form, but because many breweries across the country had switched to soda manufacturing during Prohibition, the soda produced by these brewers was sold in bottles, exposing a whole new generation of Americans to this new “packaged” product. As a result the corner drug store soda fountain was no longer the only place to get a soda; it was now possible to go to the store and bring it home in bottled form. The bottling industry was being developed and improved because of all this new activity, including advancements in the bottling equipment itself. By the end of Prohibition, most of the brewers found that they had obsolete bottling equipment because of the new technology. Prohibition had produced a fledgling giant; soda pop in packaged form. In the decades after Prohibition packaged beer would become the most common form of distribution.

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a letter from the 1950s when only two breweries were left in buffalo. the letter list the 30 breweries once in production since the 20th century.

LOCAL BREWS prohibition in buffalo

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LOCAL BREWS flying bison brewery

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Beer Is The Second Most Popular Beverage In The World. Canadian Is The Oldest Brewery In North America. Tea Is Number One. Molson Beer Cans Were Invented In 1935. The “33” On A Bottle Of Rolling Rock Was Originally A Printer’s Error. It Refers To The 33 Words In The Original Slogan.

The Oldest Known Written Recipe Is For Beer.

During Prohibition, Temperance Activists Hired A Scribe To Remove All References Of Alcohol In The Bible. America’s First Brewery Was Built

In Hoboken, New Jersey In 1642.

You Are Deemed A Labeorphilist If You Collect Beer Bottles. Samuel Adams’ Triple Bock Is The Strongest Beer In The World With 17% Alcohol By Volume. The Strength Is Achieved By Using Champagne Yeast.

Monks Brewed Beer In The Middle Ages And Were AllowedBeer To Drink Five Quarts Is A Source Of B Complex Everyday. In Their Efforts To Regulate Beer Quality Ancient Babylonians Who Were Among Histroyies Earliest Brewers, Decreed That Nay Commercial Beer Maker That Sold Unfit Beer Would Be Drowned In His Own Libation.

Papst Blue Ribbon Was Named Because It Was The First Beer To There Are Nineteen Different Versions Win The Blue Ribbon For Best Of Guiness. Tasting Beer At The Chicago’s World Fair In 1893.

Beer Facts

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FOUNDER Kevin Townsell FOUNDED 1986 LOCATION 6861 Main St. Williamsville, NY WEBSITE http://www.buffalobrewpub.com

BUFFALO BREW PUB Buffalo Brew Pub is the oldest brewery still owned and operated in the state

mapped out on a handy table-tent chart. But if that’s too complicated, the knowledgeable staff will guide your taste buds to the proper brew for you. The brew is also available to take home in a souvenir growler. Another unique feature of what’s billed as “New York State’s oldest and friendliest brewpub” is its Mug Club (visit the bar or www.buffalobrewpub.comfor details). I visited on a recent Wednesday with two Mug Club members who are no strangers to the bartenders or the beer, and both greeted them with a smile. Buffalo Brew Pub also provides endless complimentary popcorn and peanuts. One of Mug Club member Will L.’s favorite things about spending his free time at Buffalo Brew Pub is the atmosphere. Will said: “During the week, I like the older crowds, and the staff is very accommodating.” According to Michelle, a bartender, “Friday nights are the busiest..Saturday nights too, the crowd is poppin’, that’s when the young ones are out.”

of New York. This brewery and restaurant is a very popular place in Williamsville for both the locals and the out-of-towners, the young and the old. Buffalo Brew Pub was opened in 1986 by Kevin Townsil. Townsil was inspired from a system he saw his friend operate in Weland, Ontario.

In 1998, ownership was made corporate leaving Buffalo Brew Pub currently under the management of Keith Morgan. The building itself was built in the early 1900s. It was presumed to begin as a stage coach style hotel. In the 1930s this building was transformed into a dance club known as “The Colonial Inn.” The main room was opened up and took advantage of high arched ceilings. Melanie’s took over after The Colonial Inn, becoming a “young-person’s hangout.” There is normally one person in charge of the brewery, currently Morgan is looking to fill that position. Typically they’d manage to produce 16.5 barrels a month, 240 gallons each. Buffalo Brew Pub serves about four or five types of brews at a time. The most common brews are pale or pilsner types. The most popular one is their Amber Ale and the Lager. There’s a flavor for every taste here – light, dark, bitter, smooth – all

LOCAL BREWS buffalo brew pub

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PE A R L S T re e t GRILL & BREWERY

An American Pale Ale, Lake Effect features abundant hop flavor and aroma. Lake Effect is medium-bodied with a light coppery color. Its complex flavor begins with rich maltiness that quickly transitions to an assertive hop presence and finishes with a sharp crispness.

LIGHT HO USE

Pearl Street Grill & Brewery is a popular hot spot for locals and tour-

The most popular time of year for this business and when the most beer is brewed and consumed, is the winter season beginning roughly in September and ends around March. The Buffalo Sabres and Buffalo Bills fans are often found at Pearl Street and are often endorsing the consumption of the brewed beer on draft. During this time of year, more than 1,500 gallons of beer is brewed each week. Due to the increased interest in the local brewing industry in Buffalo, Pearl Street Grill and Brewery has done reasonably well throughout the recession. The location is of prime importance of the success of both the restaurant and the brewery. The Buffalo brewing identity has flourished because of this prime downtown destination.

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A light and effervescent with a subtle spicy character of orange peel, coriander and ginger. Uniquely pleasing, a beer this good comes along only “once in a blue moon”!

LAKE EFFECT

FOUNDED 1972 BREWMASTER Phil Internicola LOCATION 76 Pearl St. Buffalo, NY WEBSITE http://www.pearlstreetgrill.com

ists alike that want to go out on the town. This microbrewery mainly sells its beer inside its premises for those that enjoy both beer and the dining out in the city of Buffalo. Reservations and catering is available within this four-story building.

LUNE’ D ’ BLEU

A great introduction to the world of craft-brewed beers, Lighthouse is a light blonde ale with a fairly neutral balance, mild but notable malt and hop flavors, and a crisp, clean, thirst-quenching finish.

Phil Internicola, an experienced past brewer and shareholder of Flying Bison Brewery, knows and recognizes that brewing is both “an art and science.” There needs to be the understanding of the process as well as an interest and love that not everyone has. He also recognizes that it is the “ consumers’ responsibility to keep local brewing here in the city of Buffalo.”

PER LENST R ASSE

Our authentic German Oktoberfest, Perlenstrasse emulates its famed brethren in Deutschland with a mild, slightly nutty malt flavor that gives way to a crisp, clean finish, and a beautiful pale orange color.

The building and the 76 Pearl Street address have a very interesting past in and of itself. The infrastructure was built in 1845 and was originally a dressmaking factory. There was very poor ventilation in the building and, after the worker’s regulation acts were past, the employers of these women were under pressure to design an air-regulation system that was satisfactory to ensure the safety and health of the workers. The fans run on a conveyer belts and served the purpose for both powering the sewing machines and ventilation of the factory. Today, the fans are still intact and are used. This is a small detail that helps to keep the rustic and traditional feel involved within the restaurant. The story and decoration of the fans are to interest to the customers and a reason for them to enter the building in the first place. It is the décor, atmosphere, service, and brews that keep them coming back.

LOCAL BREWS pearl st.brewery

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The outlook for craft breweries The outlook for craft breweries reemerging into Buffalo as it surged in the

BB

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LOCAL BREWS future of breweries

reemerging into Buffalo as it surged in the late 1800s, prior to prohibition where over late 1800s, prior to prohibition where over thirty breweries existed in the western thirty breweries existed in the western NY area is very bleak. There is no NY area is very bleak. There is no longer that passion for industry and longer that passion for industry and production that this city once was. production that this city once was. The beginning of prohibition was The beginning of prohibition was definitely an ending of the prosperity definitely an ending of the prosperity and pride that all Buffalonians and pride that all Buffalonians experienced. The pride that folks experienced. The pride that folks from experience from BuffBuff alo alo experience nownow is is nothing in comparison to the swell nothing in comparison to the swell of excitement and emotion of excitement and emotion thatthat rolled through streets. rolled through the the streets. e purpose of the brewing being TheTh purpose of the brewing being a popular past time and industry a popular past time and industry in Buff so many years in Buff alo alo so many years agoago waswas because it was not alone. Buff because it was not alone. Buffalo,alo, having been of the largest having been oneone of the largest steelsteel producingcities citiesin inAmerica Americahadhad producing automotive companies such as Ford, automotive companies such as Ford, shipship building hype climb since building hype waswas on on the the climb since the the opening of the Erie Canal. Th ere were tourists opening of the Erie Canal. There were tourists from Canada all over nation to visit Niagara from Canada andand all over the the nation to visit Niagara Falls. Th ere was always something that everyone Falls. There was always something that everyone could cherish in the could cherish in the city.city. Aftthe er the nation made selling manufacturing After nation made selling andand manufacturing alcohol illegal and then legal again there alcohol illegal and then legal again there waswas nothing left . Th e buildings, companies, nothing left. The buildings, companies, andand economic status of the collapsed. There economic status of the citycity hadhad collapsed. There to pick up the pieces. There waswas no no oneone herehere to pick up the pieces. There was,was, a skeleton of what is city andand still,still, is aisskeleton of what the the citycity was.was. ThisTh city brewing industry could never return to the andand thethe brewing industry could never return to the prosperity wealth it was before. prosperity andand wealth it was before.

Though there is attempt an attempt to rebuild brewing Though there is an to rebuild the the brewing industry with Brew Pearl Street Grill industry with BuffBuff alo alo Brew Pub,Pub, Pearl Street Grill & Brewery distributing brewery Flying & Brewery andand the the distributing brewery Flying Bison Brewing Company, these small Bison Brewing Company, these are are onlyonly small aftermath breweries spread aftermath breweries thatthat cancan onlyonly spread out out to to thethe public thatthat is here now. TheTh large corporations public is here now. e large corporations thatthat sellsell beerbeer at aatmuch lower costcost are are outselling a much lower outselling andand out-marketing these small local brews. After out-marketing these small local brews. After all, all, though local craftcraft beers do do existexist herehere in in though local beers BuffBuff alo,alo, twotwo outout of three are are strictly soldsold at that of three strictly at that establishment. Though the the dream is exciting andand establishment. Though dream is exciting oneone thatthat all all brewers would come true, the the sadsad brewers would come true, reality for for BuffBuff alo alo andand all craft beerbeer is that it will reality all craft is that it will notnot return to how it was. return to how it was.

Special thanks fromfrom the the editors, designers, andand publishers of of Special thanks editors, designers, publishers Local Brews Magazine, Buffalo Edition to the thatthat Local Brews Magazine, Buffalo Edition to breweries the breweries were usedused especially fromfrom Phil Phil Internicola Pearl Street GrillGrill were especially Internicola Pearl Street andand Brewery, Tim Tim Herzog at Flying Bison Brewing Company Brewery, Herzog at Flying Bison Brewing Company andand Keith Morgan at Buffalo Brew Pub.Pub. We We appreciate Keith Morgan at Buffalo Brew appreciate youryour help,help, interest andand information. Magazine Created, designed, and distributed by Sarah Matthew Brigante, and Codie interest information. Magazine Created, designed, and distributed by Battaglia, Sarah Battaglia, Matthew Brigante, and Northrup. Codie Northrup. University at Buffat alo’s Press, 2010 direction and instruction of Shasti O’Leary, ART 309 University Buff alo’s Fall Press, Fallunder 2010 the under the direction and instruction of Shasti O’Leary, ART 309


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