Page 1

Easy PonchO

PATTERNS TO HOOK NOW!

Game, set, & MATCH! Racquet cover,bottle holder,lanyard,socks, visor & more


AVAILABLE NOW

INDIAN ROSES BLANKET KIT DESIGNED BY JANIE CROW

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND YOUR NEAREST STOCKIST VISIT

WWW.WYSPINNERS.COM TEL: (0)1535 664500 · EML: SALES@WYSPINNERS.COM


There’s nothing quite like sitting down with a cup of tea and a biscuit with your magazine and a bit of crochet. It’s thirsty work getting excited over all those new project ideas, and you need to keep your energy levels up. Just be careful which biscuit you’re picking up… one may be distinctly chewier (and rather better at measuring) than the others…


We do! Page 41 ISSUE SEVENTY-ONE

CONTENTS

28 SpoRty tee Psst Look supe chic on the cout!

AnyOne for TenNiS? P16

ExcIting CroChet IdeAs to InsPire you 14 JAMMY DODGER 16 SPORTY IDEAS 28 TENNIS TEE 41 AMIGURUMI HARRY & MEGHAN 46 LOVE CUSHION 49 CROCHET JEWELLERY

50 BABY BLANKET 54 ASYMMETRICAL SHAWL 59 HOOK TO HOOK 62 STAR CUSHION 69 EMBELLISH AN OUTFIT 72 DIAMOND BLANKET 95 HOOK ‘N’ LEARN

rochet wokhop, p80

check out ou Tun to page 59 and u could deigne challenge – yo win gogeou yan!

win

62


69

50

65

46 circUs cuShion

14 49 Good ReaDs 09 HOOKED 34 COLUMN: KATE BRUNING 52 PROFILE: SUSAN PINNER 65 COLOUR CLASS: BLUE 78 SHOW US YOURS! 98 MY HOOKY TREASURE

how to... 36 SUBSCRIBE Never miss an issue!

76 YARN REVIEWS Six natural wool treats

80 THE WORKSHOP Crochet braids

87 THE GUIDE Essential step-by-steps

93 CHARTS

NatUral YarNs P76

54

72


Game on! Commissioning Editor Sara Huntington Art Editor Kimberly Price Technical Assistant Paula Green Digital Editor Matthew Spiers Cover Photography Phil Sowels Photography Philip Sowels, Dave Caudery

Wimbledon is just around the corner, and we’re feeling the sporty vibe this month. Check out Simone Francis’ stylish sporty tee on page 28 – it’s an easy top to make and a grand first garment to have a go at. If raising a glass of Pimms at the same time as juggling your strawberries and cream is more your workout style, however, we have plenty of other makes to get you in the mood for summer. Eleonora’s Tunisian trims are über-cool (page 69), and Heather Gibbs’ diamond blanket is perfect for summer picnics. Go flat out.

Group Art Editor Louise Bambridge Editor-in-Chief Debora Bradley Group Senior Editor Julie Taylor

AdvErTisInG Call 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes Business Development Manager UK and International Rachael Hawkins Brand Sales Executive Alexandra Johnson

MarKeTing & SubScRipTions Direct Marketing Executive Kate Jones

ConTrIbuTors

CirCuLatIon

A massive cheer for this month’s amazing crafters…

Head of Newstrade Marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade Marketing Manager Juliette Winyard International Account Manager Rebecca Hill

ProDuCtiOn Production Co ordinator Sarah Greenhalgh Production Manager Emma McGuinness / Siân Rodgers Production Director Sarah Powell

BuyIng Team Paul Torre, Karen Flannigan, Corinne Mellerup

LicEnSing Senior Licensing & Syndication Manager Tim Hudson

“HAPPINE SS IS CROC HETI NG”

“OH I DO LIKE TO CROCHET BESIDE THE SEASIDE!”

HEATHER C GIBBS

ELEONORA TULLY

Aside from amigurumi, blankets are Heather’s favourite projects to design and crochet. Go to page 72 for her stunning diamond blanket in warm, earthy shades.

Lucky Eleonora lives by the seaside where fresh sea air and ever-changing colours are constant sources of inspiration. She’s designed our jeans edging embellishment on page 69.

PubLiShiNg Publishing Director Kerry Lawrence Managing Director Bristol Andy Marshall Chief Executive Officer Tom Bureau

SubScRipTions Call 03330 162 146 or subscribe online at www.buysubscriptions.com/craft

Need to get in TouCh? EDITORIAL TEAM simplycrochet@immediate.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS TEAM simplycrochet@buysubscriptions.com 03330 162 146

Next IssUe on Sale TueSday 12 June 2018 No gift included? Ask your newsagent. Covergift may be unavailable overseas.

“I LOVE LOTS OF CRAFTS, BUT I CROCH ET ALMO ST EVERY DAY”

“CR OCH ET IS MY ONE TR UE CRAFT LOV E”

SIMONE FRANCIS

MILLIE MASTERSON

Simone is inluenced by fashion, art and nature and strives to design patterns that are interesting to make and follow. She’s deinitely achieved that with her sporty tee on page 28.

The design genius behind Ruby and Custard, Millie loves to crochet with bright cotton colours. She’s designed the amazing circus-inspired ‘Love’ cushion on page 46.

OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Kate Alinari, Kate Bruning, Ilaria Caliri, Esme Crick, Lucy Croft, Hannah Cross, Judy Darley, Anne Egan, Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz, Ruth Haydock, Bryony Hitchcock, Catherine Hood, Jenny May Forsyth, Cara Medus, Sharon Murphy, Samantha Osmond, Adam Rees, Becky Skuse, Matthew Spiers

Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered oice of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage.

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OUT NOW!

In WOMAN, the 5th issue of Scheepjes YARN bookazine, we explore and celebrate the similarities DQG GL̆HUHQFHV WKDW XQLWH XV WRJHWKHU DV ZRPHQ :H MRLQ KDQG LQ KDQG ZLWK ZRPHQ RI GL̆HUHQW DJHV FXOWXUHVVKDSHV DQG VL]HV WR EULQJ \RX  H[FOXVLYH GHVLJQV WKDW FHOHEUDWH RXU YDULHGVWRULHV _¼_ _ AYDLODEOHQRZIURP6FKHHSMHVUHWDLOHUVDQG$PD]RQFRXN

WWW.SCHEEPJES.COM


The lovely world of

RICORUMI

www.rico-design.co.uk

100 % Cotton

Unravel your creativity


Ideas

Inspiration

Accessories

Websites

Events

Stuff

Give us a twirl So much care and attention from Mary Pettis-Sarley is behind each exquisite ball of Twirl yarn. Mary blends fibres from the sheep, angora goats, llamas and alpacas that she raises on her ranch in California, and grows or gathers most of the plants she uses for dyes to create a wonderful range of natural shades. Loop are stocking Twirl in their London shop (around £15.50 per 50g cake), or go to www.loopknittingshop.com to buy if you’re not local. Visit their blog for more on the fascinating story behind this special yarn. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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SUPER SOFT We can’t wait to W

YARN ART

C

alifornian artist Ashley Blalock brings crochet into the fine art arena with her series of installations, Keeping Up Appearances. She makes ‘genteel’ crochet doilies but, on a huge scale and in bright red yarn, they hint at the unease behind the desire to control and arrange domestic space. See more at www.ashleyvblalock.com

Trend alert

We Love... Bring on the sunshine… Wool and the Gang are absolutely rocking the summer accessories game with their brand new Ra-Ra Raffia yarn and crochet kits. The yarn (£14.50 per 100g) is light, airy and water-resistant (perfect for beach bags and sun hats) and comes in four natural shades. There are nine crochet kits available and we’re obsessing over them all. We can just see ourselves strolling down to a little tapas bar with a Paper Gangsta Bag (£44) or Bad Romance Bag (£59) in tow, while donning a Worn This Way Hat (£25). So much choice… and the (free!) Speechless Phone Case pattern thrown in… Mmm, another glass of sangria anyone? 10 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

get hooking with MillaMia’s new Naturally Soft Super Chunky. True to its name, this is a deliciously soft, cloud-like super chunky yarn made from 100% merino wool, gorgeous for big knit jumpers or soft cushions and throws. It comes in 18 shades, from jewel brights and pastels to stylish neutrals. £8.79 per 100g ball, available from www.love knitting.com

FRINGE BENEFITS Get yourself on down to tassel town and check out VV Rouleaux’s divine collection of new handmade horse hair tassels. They come in a great range of colours, sizes and styles at various price points, but we’ve fallen in love with the Sissinghurst Pink and Daffodil combo shown above, both 65mm and £22 each. Fab-u-lous. www.vvrouleaux.com


HOOKED

INSPIRING BOOKS WHIMSICAL STITCHES LAUREN ESPY (£16.50, Paige Tate & Co)

Amigurumi fans are in for a treat with 30 colourful designs in this nicely presented book. The characters are fun and quirky, from doughnuts and macarons to cacti and a jellyfish, with themes including In the Garden, Down on the Farm and At the Bakery. The patterns are clear with useful step-by-step photographs.

mini profile

A CRAFTY MUM Emily Hutchings is the UK blogger and crochet addict behind Adventures of a Crafty Mum. She told us: “I first learnt how to crochet when I had my first child. I made him a teddy bear hat by following a YouTube video. From then on my love of crochet grew. I watched lots of how-tos and taught myself to read a pattern. It wasn’t long until I realised how creative I could be with it. “I find lots of inspiration from social media. Every time I see something I love it goes on my project list – it’s a long list! Most of my makes are for my children. My eldest is four and has a wonderful imagination; he’ll ask me to create something (mostly dinosaurs) and then my mind and hook get to work. “I have so many favourite makes – my current favourite is my Crochet Between the Lines shawl. I’m only on my second repeat of 14 but I’m making this for me, which makes it extra special. “A crochet triumph for me is that I have been running workshops at a café near to me. Each one has sold out and the people

CAREFREE CROCHET MAY BRITT BJELLA ZAMORI (£17.88, Trafalgar Square Books)

who have come have sent me pictures of their work. It’s such a lovely thing to be able to share a craft I enjoy so much with others. “I am a total craft hoarder. Alongside crochet I also enjoy sewing, cross stitch, and I’m known to have hand-made cards and birthday frames. I’m sure a third of my loft is dedicated to craft supplies and I have yarn hidden all over the house so my husband doesn’t find it.” Visit www.adventuresofacraftymumblog. wordpress.com for Emily’s blog and on Instagram she’s @adventuresofacraftymum

SUBS STARS! Every month, three subscribers win a prize as a thank-you for their loyalty. This issue, the winners (below) will each receive a copy of Kat Goldin’s book Hook, Stitch & Give, worth £14.99. It’s packed with projects for any occasion. Stella Nicholas, West Molesey Ruth Dyal, Orpington Joan Healey, Bridgend Immediate Media Company, publishers of Simply Crochet, Subs Stars giveaway terms and conditions. Prizes were dispatched before the on sale date of this issue. There are no cash alternatives. Three winning entries will be chosen at random from all current subscribers. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Norwegian designer May has filled this book with 50 stylish projects, designed to make you feel good both crocheting the designs and wearing them. You’ll find ideas for summer and winter wear, including scarves, sweaters and dresses, plus home accessories, cushions and blankets. Projects cover a range of sizes and skill levels.

ZOOMIGURUMI 7 AMIGURUMIPATTERNS. NET (£12.50, Meteoor Books)

In this latest Zoomigurumi book you’ll meet 15 new characters from designers from all around the world, including Hamish the hamster, Monty the mouse, Snorky the elephant, Freddy the piglet, Cheryl the chicken and Lonzo the llama. Hook them all and collect the set. They make great little gifts for family and friends, young and old!

NATURAL DYEING WITH PLANTS FRANZISKA EBNER (£23.50, Schiffer Publishing Ltd)

Learn how to create your own hand-dyed yarns using a huge range of natural ingredients including dahlia, rhubarb, hollyhock, coffee and onion. Franziska takes you through the history of dyeing, suitable plants and the different methods of dyeing, and even has some project ideas. It’s a fascinating book that will have you foraging for colourful ingredients!


CROCHET CURE

MORE WEIGHT

W

e’re already fans of Eden Cottage Yarns’ beautifully soft and drapy Milburn 4ply, so we’re excited to discover it is now available as a DK yarn too. Milburn is a gorgeous blend of 85% Bluefaced Leicester and 15% silk, available in a range of 20 mouthwatering shades inspired by nature, from Damson and Bramble to Estuary and Fern. Milburn DK costs around £7.50 per 50g ball and is also available in sweater packs of ten 50g balls. www.edencottageyarns.co.uk

WAs if we needed another reason to spend yet more time crocheting, Knit for Peace’s report, The Health Benefits of Knitting, backed by a survey of over 1,000 knitters, shows that knitting (or crochet) can lower blood pressure, combat depression and even slow the onset of dementia. The report also shows knitters can feel more resilient and more part of the community. And if you don’t know what to do with all your makes, why not donate some to those in need? Go to www. knitforpeace.org.uk

FUN RETREAT

A hooky holiday SPIN SPIN SUGAR Fancy having a go at spinning your own yarn? Join Caz from Wulla for a spinning workshop at The Fibre Lounge (the yarn shop formerly known as Komodo Crafts in Kings Langley, Hertfordshire). The class is suitable for all skill levels and you can bring your own equipment and ibre or buy a starter pack, including drop spindle and ibre for £15, on the night. Workshops are coming up on 31 May and 28 June, 7-9pm, and cost £25. Get more details from www.wulla.co.uk 12 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Treat yourself to a weekend of crochet, craft, cake, fizz and lots of chat with other craftaholics on Katie Jones’ Great Make Escape from 6-8 July in Lewes, Sussex. It’s an all-inclusive weekend where you get to take three main workshops covering crochet techniques, but also include embroidery, knitting and macramé. All materials are included. To find out more visit www.katiejonesknit.co.uk

HOOKEDONFURLS Have you heard the exciting news that Scheepjes are now stocking the fabulous Furls crochet hooks? Each Furls hook is a handmade, mini masterpiece, and whatever your needs there is a hook for you, from the Alpha series (shown above), designed to fit the hand perfectly, to the Odyssey, with its nickel-plated pewter neck for smooth, fast crocheting. We love the Jumbo Crochet hooks for chunky projects too. Find them in all their glory at www.woolwarehouse.co.uk


HOOKED

5 FAB FINDS Feeling sheepish Five ways to show your love for our woolly friends.

HANDMADE HEAVEN Add a crochet twist to the traditional wedding garter with one of these beauties from To Be Adorned on etsy.com. The handmade garters (£35.25) are crocheted with luxurious silk and alpaca blend yarn and finished with tiny beads and satin or velvet ribbon in a choice of six jewel shades. Divine. And if you’re planning a trip down the aisle, be sure to check out To Be Adorned’s other vintageinspired wedding accessories.

1

CRAZY FOR EWE Who could resist this roly-poly Luxury Bobble Sheep kit from Warm Pixie DIY? It’s made in luxury soft lambswool and the kit includes everything you need to complete your sheep. Go to www.warmpixie.com

2

BABY STEPS Start the alpaca love early with Born Bespoke’s cute baby shoes. You can have the soles personalised too. Go to www. bornbespoke.com

out & about

WoolfesT 2018 We do love a good yarn show… especially one like Woolfest where we get to meet lots of our fleecy friends, including a whole range of different sheep breeds, plus alpacas and angora rabbits. Of course, there’s plenty more for yarn addicts too, including shopping, demonstrations, exhibitions, the Fleece Sale, music and more. Woolfest 2018 is on 22-23 June at Mitchells Lakeland Livestock Centre in Cockermouth in Cumbria. Tickets are £10 or £15 for both days. Go to www.woolfest.co.uk for more.

Skills, shows & events JUNE2 Leeds Wool Festival, from £3, Leeds Industrial Museum, Armley, Leeds www.leeds.gov.uk/museumsandgalleries/ armleymills/leeds-wool-festival

FLOCK YEAH! We’ve fallen in love with this colourful flock of sheep bag from Mary Kilvert. It’s just crying out to be filled with wonderful yarns. Find it at www. marykilvert.com

4

SEW LOVELY Fancy having a go at a new craft? This alpaca embroidery kit has pre-printed fabric so you can just get stitching. www.hawthorn handmade.com

JUNE16 Crochet for Beginners and Improvers, £45, Get Knitted, Brislington, Bristol www.getknitted.com, 0117 300 5211

JUNE22-23 Woolfest, £10, Cockermouth, Cumbria www.woolfest.co.uk, 016974 78707

JUNE22-24 The Handmade Fair, £12, Bowood House, Wiltshire www.thehandmadefair.com, 0871 230 7153

JUNE29–JULY1 The Creative Craft Show, £8, NEC, Birmingham, www.ichf.co.uk, 01425 277988

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3

EWE BEAUTY Fresh Fleeces have a fantastic flock of silver sheep jewellery, including this divine handcrafted silver sheep necklace. Yes please… www. freshfleeces.com

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Tasty treat

Hook yourself this delightfully sweet cover for a tape measure. Designed by Ilaria Caliri.


EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

A tape measure is an essential tool for crochet, so why not have one that’s super fun to work with? And what could be more fun than Ilaria Caliri’s fabulous famous biscuit? Just don’t get confused with the real thing and dip it in your tea!

YOU WILL NEED

NOTES

Use your free gift or oddments of yarn to make the cover Q Yarn A Beige Q Yarn B Red Q A 3mm (C/2 or D/3) hook Q Round retractable tape measure (approx 5cm diameter) Q Stitch markers

All pieces are made using the amigurumi method. Work continuously in a spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work. The Jammy Dodger’s heart is placed over and covers the button of the tape measure.

MEASUREMENTS

BISCUIT TOP Using Yarn A, ch15, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Skip ch at base of loop on hook, 2htr in next ch, skip 1 ch, 2dc in next ch, dc in each of next 4 ch, 2dc in each of next 2 ch, dc in each of next 4 ch, 2dc in last ch. [18 sts] Round 2 (Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 3 (Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 4 (Dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 5 Ss in next st, ch1 (does not count as a st), dc in same st at base of beg ch-1, 2tr in next st, dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2tr in next st, dc in next st) 11 times, ss to beg ch-1. [48 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

To fit a round retractable tape measure

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

FILLING Using Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as a st), 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (Dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 7 Ss in next st, ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in bl in each of next 33 sts, leaving the remaining stitches unworked to allow space for the tape measure to pull out and retract. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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Place the ‘filling’ around the tape measure, then sandwich it between the two biscuits.

BISCUIT BOTTOM Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as a st), 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (Dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 7 Ss in next st, ch1 (does not count as a st), dc in same st at base of beg ch-1, 2tr in next st, dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2tr in next st, dc in next st) 11 times, ss to beg ch-1. [48 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. TO MAKE UP Place the Filling on the tape measure, with the button on the top (so that the button is covered by the Filling). The gap at Round 7 of the Filling corresponds to the hole where the tape measure pulls out and retracts. Place the Biscuit Bottom underneath the tape measure and sew all around, merging the inner side of the scalloped edge to the last round of the Filling. Place the Biscuit Top on the Filling and sew around the edge, joining Round 6 of the Biscuit Top with Round 6 of the Filling. Fasten off and in weave ends.

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SPORTY IDEAS

, t e s , e m a G & match!

Get kitted out for summer with our ace set of tennis-inspired clothes and accessories. New balls please‌


Sock it to ‘em As we all know, there’s no such thing as too many socks… and this sporty pair will have you leaping for those smashes.

top Form This natty little number is just the ticket for cutting a dash on Centre Court… (sipping Pimms in the stands, that is).


SPORTY IDEAS

What a RacQuet! Stride onto court in winning style with this showstopping tennis racquet cover with go-faster stripes – it’s guaranteed to improve your serve. We’re loving the coordinating strap too – match point.

Just the TicKet Keep your court pass safe and sound with this colourful lanyard. It’s super easy to make, so you’ll have it hooked up in no time. (It’s great for keeping your work pass card to hand, too. We can’t all win that trophy.) WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 19


SPORTY IDEAS

if the cap Fits This stylish visor will keep the sun (or rain…?) out of your eyes and have you serving aces every time. It’s also great for wearing on your weekly run. Or popping to the shops. Or just watching Wimbledon on the telly… come on, dress the part.

BreAk PoiNt Complete the look with an matching water bottle holder in a cool striped pattern and with a handy strap so you can tote it around court with you. Game, set and match, natch. 20 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM


SPORTY IDEAS

tennis socks For a touch of sport chic to your comfort, hook this pair of socks by Hannah Cross. Q Sirdar Cotton 4ply (100% cotton, 100g/335m), 1 ball of Yarn A Mill White (501), small amounts of each (approx 30g): Yarn B Laguna (536) Yarn C Hot Pink (511) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q Tapestry needle

TENSION 19 sts and 18 rounds equals 10x10cm (4x4in) using 3.5mm hook over stitch pattern

MEASUREMENTS To fit UK shoe size 4-7

NOTES Work Socks from the toe up. For the first Sock, Yarn B is used for the toe and heel. For the second sock, use Yarn C. Parts of this pattern direct you to work in continuous rounds. Where this is the case you do not need to ss to close each round. Ch1 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch unless otherwise stated. Ch2 at the start of a round counts as a ch1 plus a ch1-sp.

22 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

SOCK Using a 3.5mm hook and Yarn B, ch10. Round 1 Dc in second ch from hook, dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in last ch, rotate to work on other side of chain, dc in next 8 sts. [18 sts] Work in continuous rounds. Round 2 2dc in first st, dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next 2 sts, dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st. [22 sts] Round 3 Dc in first st, 2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in last st. [26 sts] Round 4 Dc in first st, 2dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in last st. [30 sts] Round 5 Dc in first st, 2dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in last st. [34 sts] Round 6 Dc in first st, 2dc in next st, dc in next 13 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 13 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in last st. [38 sts] Round 7 Dc in each st around. Round 8 2dc in first st, dc in next 18 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 18 sts. [40 sts] Rounds 9-14 Dc in each st around. Change to Yarn A. Round 15 Dc in each st around, ss to first

dc to join. [40sts] No longer work in continuous rounds. Round 16 Ch1, (htr, ch1, sk1) 20 times, ss to first ch1 to join. [20 htr] Round 17 Ch2, sk1, htr in bl of st 2 rounds below, (ch1, sk1, htr in bl of st 2 rounds below) 19 times, ss in to first ch1 to join. [20 htr] Round 18 Ch1, (htr in bl of st 2 rounds below, ch1, sk1) 20 times, ss in first ch1 to join. Rounds 17 and 18 create the pattern. [20 htr] Rounds 19-38 Repeat Rounds 17 and 18. [20 htr]

HEEL SPACE Round 39 Ch2, sk1, htr in bl of st 2 rounds below, (ch1, sk1, htr in bl of st 2 rounds below) 9 times, ch20 loosely, ss to first ch1 to join. [10 htr] Now you will work half of this round into the ch20, this will create the space for the heel. Round 40 Ch1 (htr in bl of st two rows below, ch1, sk1), 10 times, (htr into ch, ch1, sk1) across ch20, ss to first ch1 to join. [20 htr] Round 41 Ch2, sk1, htr in bl of st 2 rounds below, (ch1, sk1, htr in bl of st 2 rounds below) 19 times, ss to first ch1 to join. [20 htr] Round 42 Ch1, (htr in bl of st two rows below, ch1, sk1) 20 times, ss to first ch 1 to


SPORTY IDEAS

join. [20 htr] Rounds 41 and 42 create the pattern. Rounds 43-59 Repeat Rows 41 and 42. [20 htr] Change to Yarn C. Rounds 60-63 Repeat Rows 41 and 42. Change to Yarn A. Rounds 64-65 Repeat Rows 41 and 42. Change to Yarn B. Rounds 66-69 Repeat Rows 41 and 42. Change to Yarn A. Round 70 Ch1, (htr in bl two rounds below, dc in next st) 20 times, ss to first ch1 to join. Do not fasten off. [40 sts]

CUFF Using a 2.5mm hook, continue in Yarn A, ch6. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook, dc in next 4 sts, ss in next st of Round 70 to join, turn. [5 sts] Row 2 Ss in bl of each st, turn. [5 sts] Row 3 Ch1, dc in each st, ss into next st of Round 70, turn. [5 sts] Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around, join the last row to the first with a ss seam to finish.

Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q Stitch markers Q 2 lobster claw clasps and 2 single

D-rings, 25mm Q 2 sheets of A3 craft foam (3mm depth) Q White zip, 25cm (10in) Q Small snap fastener Q Craft glue and/or pink sewing thread to

HEEL Using a 3.5mm hook, work in continuous rounds. Round 1 Join Yarn B to side of heel opening, ch1, dc in each st around. [40 sts] Round 2 Dc in each st around. Round 3 Dc2tog, dc in next 16 sts, dc2tog twice, dc in next 16 sts, dc2tog. [36 sts] Round 4 Repeat Round 2. [36 sts] Round 5 (Dc2tog, dc in next 14 sts, dc2tog) twice. [32 sts] Round 6 Repeat Round 2. [32 sts] Round 7 (Dc2tog, dc in next 12 sts, dc2tog) twice. [28 sts] Round 8 Dc2tog, dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog twice, dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog. [24 sts] Round 9 Dc2tog, dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog twice, dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog. [20 sts] Round 10 Dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog twice, dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog. [16 sts] Round 11 Dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog twice, dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog. [12 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends.

tennis racquet cover Protect your racquet with Bryony Hitchcock’s super cool practical cover. Q Sirdar Cotton 4ply (100% cotton, 100g/335m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Mill White (501), Yarn B Laguna (536), 2 balls of Yarn C Hot Pink (511) Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

match yarn

TENSION 23 sts and 29 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over dc using a 3.5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS 42x29x4cm (16½x11¼x1½in)

NOTES This pattern is worked with a length and increases to match the racquet shown. It can be altered to suit any model by regularly checking the working piece against the foam insert, and adding extra increases/decreases, and rows, if necessary. Draw around your tennis racquet onto the craft foam and cut out two matching pieces. The crochet cover will need to extend one stitch each side of the edge of the foam. COVER (MAKE 2) With Yarn C, ch22. Row 1 (WS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. [21 sts] Row 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch1, 2dc in each of first 4 sts, dc in next 13, 2dc in each of last 4 sts, turn. [29 sts] Row 4 Ch1, dc in first st, FPtr round next st, dc in next 6 sts, (FPtr round next st, dc in

next st) 7 times, dc in next 5 sts, FPtr round next st, dc in last st, turn. Place marker in first FPtr and move up each row. [29 sts] Row 5 Ch1, dc in each of first 2 sts, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each st across to last 4 sts, moving marker up, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of last 2 sts, turn. [33 sts] Row 6 Ch1, dc in first st, FPtr round next st, dc in each st across to marked st, (FPtr round next st, dc in next st) 7 times, move up marker, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, FPtr round next st, dc in last st, turn. [33 sts] Rows 7-16 Repeat Rows 5-6 five times more. Each odd row will increase by 4 sts. [53 sts] Row 17 Ch1, dc in each of first 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in each st across to last 3 sts, moving marker up, 2dc in next st, dc in each of last 2 sts, turn. [55 sts] Row 18 Repeat Row 6. Row 19 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [55 sts] Row 20 Repeat Row 6. Rows 21-22 Repeat Rows 19-20 once more. [55 sts] Rows 23-30 Repeat Rows 17-20 twice more, fasten off. [59 sts] Row 31 Join Yarn A in first st, ch1, dc in first 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in each st across to last 3 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, turn. [61 sts] Row 32 Ch1, dc in first st, (FPtr round next st, dc in next st) across to end, moving marker up, turn. [61 sts] Row 33 Ch1, dc in first 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in each st across to last 3 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, turn. [63 sts] Row 34 Ch1, dc in first 2 sts, (FPtr round next st, dc in next st) across to last st, dc in WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 23


SPORTY IDEAS

last st, moving marker up, turn, fasten off. [63 sts] Row 35 Join Yarn C in first st and work as Row 31. [65 sts] Row 36 Repeat Row 32. [65 sts] Row 37 Join Yarn B in first st and work as Row 33. [67 sts] Row 38 Repeat Row 34, fasten off. [67 sts] Row 39 Join Yarn A in first st, ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [67 sts] Row 40 Repeat Row 34, fasten off. [67 sts] Row 41 Join Yarn C in first st, ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 42 Repeat Row 34, fasten off. Row 43 Join Yarn B in first st, ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 44 Repeat Row 34. Row 45 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 46 Repeat Row 34, fasten off. Row 47 Join Yarn C in first st, ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [67 sts] Row 48 Ch1, dc in first st, FPtr round next st, dc in each st across to marked st, (FPtr round next st, dc in next st) 7 times, move up marker, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, FPtr round next st, dc in last st, turn. [67 sts] Row 49 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [67 sts] Rows 50-59 Repeat Rows 48-49 five times more. Rows 60 Repeat Row 48 once more. Row 61 Ch1, dc in first 2 sts, dc2tog, dc in each st across to last 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in last 2 sts, turn. [65 sts] Row 62 Ch1, dc in first st, FPtr round next st, dc in each st across to marked st, (FPtr round next st, dc in next st) 7 times, move up marker, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, FPtr round next st, dc in last st, turn. [65 sts] Rows 63-68 Repeat Rows 61-62 three times more. Each odd row will decrease by 2 sts. [59 sts] Row 69 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [59 sts] Row 70 Repeat Row 62. [59 sts] Rows 71-72 Repeat Rows 61-62 once more. [57 sts] Rows 73-74 Repeat Rows 69-70 once more. [57 sts] Rows 75-76 Repeat Rows 61-62 once more. [55 sts] Rows 77-78 Repeat Rows 69-70 once more. [55 sts] Rows 79-80 Repeat Rows 61-62 once more. [53 sts] Rows 81-82 Repeat Rows 69-70 once more. [53 sts] 24 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Rows 83-112 Repeat Rows 61-62, 15 times more. Each odd row will decrease by 2 sts. [23 sts] Row 113 Repeat Row 61 once more. [21 sts] Do not fasten off.

EDGING Ch1, dc evenly around edge of cover working 1 st in each st or row end. Fasten off. D-RING FASTENING LOOPS (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, ch7. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [6 sts] Rows 2-7 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn, fasten off. [6 sts] Loop the piece through a D-ring, and whip stitch the ends together to close. Using the image as a guide, sew both to the WS of first Cover along the left edge. EDGE STRIP Row 1 Rejoin Yarn C at bottom corner of first Cover with the fastening loops attached to work around the curved edge, working in bl only, dc around in each st of Edging incorporating D-ring fastening loops as you go, turn. Rows 2-7 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Fasten off. PLACKET Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn C to left edge of Edging of second Cover approx 25cm from the bottom corner, working in bl only, dc in each st across to corner, turn. Rows 2-3 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Fasten off. TO MAKE UP Attach craft foam pieces to the WS of each Cover with craft glue and/or hand stitch in place with cotton thread. Sew or ss seam the two Covers together with WS facing inwards. Do not join the bottom 25cm where the zip is. Pin the zip behind the Placket on the second Cover so that the bottom of the zip meets the bottom edge of the Cover. Pin to first Cover along Edging so that the Edge Strip will hide the zip when closed. Sew in place with matching thread. SNAP FASTENING COVER With Yarn A, ch6. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [5 sts] Rows 2-5 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn.

Dc evenly around 3 sides of the Cover working 2dc into each corner. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Use the tail to sew the Cover to the Edging of the second Cover at the bottom. Attach a snap fastener to the Cover and the corresponding place on the Edge Strip. STRAP Using Yarn A, ch201. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [200 sts] Rows 2-4 Ch1 (does not count as st), (dc in next st, FPtr in next st) 100 times, turn, fasten off. Row 5 Join Yarn B in first st, ch1, (dc in next st, FPtr in next st) 100 times, turn. Row 6 Repeat Row 2, fasten off. Loop each end through the D-ring of the lobster clasp and sew in place to secure.

stripy lanyard Keep passes safe with a graphic crocheted lanyard designed by Anne Egan. Q Sirdar Cotton 4ply (100% cotton, 100g/335m), small amounts of each (20g or less): Yarn A Mill White (501) Yarn B Laguna (536) Yarn C Hot Pink (511) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Lobster claw clasp with D ring, 3x4cm

MEASUREMENTS 104x3.5cm (41x1½in)


SPORTY IDEAS

ABBREVIATIONS Fdc (foundation dc) *Insert hook in ch as indicated, yrh and pull through, ch1, yrh and pull through 2 loops; repeat from * working each fdc into the ch-1 from previous fdc, until you have the number of dc stated For a full list, see page 92

NOTES Change colour at the last yrh of previous stitch. LANYARD Using Yarn B, ch2. Foundation row (RS) Fdc in second ch from hook, (fdc in ch-1 of previous fdc) 8 times, turn. [9 fdc] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), dc in each st to end, turn. [9 dc] Rows 3-32 Repeat Row 2, changing to Yarn C on last yrh of last dc of Row 32. Continue in Yarn C. Rows 33-34 Repeat Row 2, changing to Yarn B on last yrh of last dc of Row 34. Continue in Yarn B. Rows 35-36 Repeat Row 2, changing to Yarn C on last yrh of last dc of Row 36. Rows 37-38 Repeat Rows 33-34, including colour change. Rows 39-42 Repeat Rows 35-38, including colour change. Rows 43-46 Ch1, dc in each of next 2 dc, changing to Yarn A on last yrh of last dc, dc in each of next 5 dc, changing to Yarn C on last yrh of last dc, dc in each of next 2 dc, turn. Rows 47-56 Repeat Row 2 and continue to change colour between Yarn C and Yarn B, every 2 rows (ending with 2 rows of Yarn C and changing to Yarn B on last yrh of last dc). Continue in Yarn B. Row 57 As Row 2. Repeat Rows 2-57 another 4 times, stopping at the end of Row 56 on the last repeat and changing to Yarn B on last yrh of last dc. Do not fasten off.

that the WS of the last row aligns with the RS of the foundation row (this is so that when hung around the neck both sides will lie flat – you may need to experiment a little to make sure you turn the back in the correct direction). Working through both the foundation row and the last row, ch1 (does not count as st), dc through both layers to the end. Fasten off and weave in ends.

NOTES Change colour on the last yrh of final st of the row before yarn change. The Visor is made by making a top and a bottom panel for the Peak, which are joined together along the curved edge with a plastic insert in between them to give structure and rigidity. The Peak is then attached to the Headband on the last row. The ch1 at the start of a row does not count as a stitch.

sun visor

PEAK

It’s no fun playing sports if you can’t see the ball. Matthew Spiers’ eye-catching visor will make sure the sun knows its place and doesn’t spoil your game. Q Sirdar Cotton 4ply (100% cotton, 100g/335m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Mill White (501), Yarn B Laguna (536), Yarn C Hot Pink (511)) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q Tapestry needle Q A piece of medium thickness plastic (e.g. from a plastic document wallet or a rectangular ice cream tub lid) Q Sewing needle and white thread Q Elastic, approx 15x2.5cm

Using Yarn A, ch15. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook, dc across to last ch, 2dc, turn. [15 sts] Row 2 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in next 12 sts, dc2tog, turn. [15 sts] Row 3 Ch1, dc in next 14 sts, 2dc in last st, turn. [16 sts] Row 4 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [16 sts] Rows 5-6 Repeat Rows 3 and 4. [17 sts] Row 7 Ch1, dc each st across, turn. Row 8 Repeat Row 4. [17 sts] Rows 9-10 Repeat Rows 3 and 4. [18 sts] Rows 11-12 Repeat Rows 7 and 8. [18 sts] Row 13 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 14 Ch1, dc next 16 sts, dc2tog, turn. [17 sts] Row 15 Ch1, dc in next 16 sts, 2dc in last st, turn. [18 sts] Row 16 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 17 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 16 sts across, turn. [17 sts]

TENSION 20 sts and 20 rows of dc to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) using a 2.5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Headband measures 42cm (16½in) long and is joined with elastic for flexibility

PEAK TOP

TO MAKE UP Fold the strip in half with WS together and slide the Lobster Claw clasp along to the fold. Using Yarn C and working from the striped side (the front of the lanyard), surface crochet through both layers (through the first Yarn C stripe from the fold and also through the stripe in Yarn C just above the square block in Yarn A). Rotate the section at the back by 180º so Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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SPORTY IDEAS

Row 18-21 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 22 Ch1, dc in next 16 sts, 2dc in last st, turn. [18 sts] Row 23 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 24 Ch1, dc2tog first 2 sts, dc next 16 sts, turn. [17 sts] Row 25 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in next 16 sts, turn. [18 sts] Change to Yarn B. Row 26 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 27 Repeat Row 4. [18 sts] Change to Yarn A. Rows 28-29 Repeat Rows 26-27. [18 sts] Change to Yarn B. Row 30 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 16 sts, turn. [17 sts] Row 31 Repeat Row 4. [17 sts] Rows 32-33 Repeat Rows 26-27. [17 sts] Row 34 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 15 sts, turn. [16 sts] Row 35 Repeat Row 4. [16 sts] Rows 36-37 Repeat Rows 34-35. [15 sts] Row 38 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 13 sts, turn. [14 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends.

PEAK BOTTOM

Row 6 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Change to Yarn A. Row 7 Ch1, dc in first 4 sts, (tr in Row 4 space below next st, dc in next 3 sts) 21 times, dc in last 2 sts, turn. [90 sts] Row 8 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [90 sts] Change to Yarn C. Row 9 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. In the next row, you will be joining the inner edges of the Peak at the same time as joining the Peak to the Headband. The stitches will be worked through the Headband, the Peak Top and the Peak Bottom. Row 10 Ch1, dc in 25 sts across, dc next st together with first dc of Peak Join Edging, dc next 38 sts of Headband with the inner sides of both Peak Top and Peak Bottom, dc next st of Headband and last dc of Peak Join Edging, dc across remaining sts. [90 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. TO MAKE UP Sew a 15cm length of elastic to join both ends of the Headband, using approximately 2cm overlap on each side. To make sure the Visor sits comfortably, pin elastic into place before sewing and add more if it is too tight.

Work as for the Peak Top, but swap Yarn A for Yarn B and vice versa.

PEAK INSERT Take the Peak Top section and use it as a template to draw the shape on the plastic. Carefully cut out and smooth off any sharp edges.

PEAK JOIN EDGING Now make the curved edging around both the Peak Top and Peak Bottom, joining the two pieces. All stitches are worked through both the Peak Top and Peak Bottom. Using Yarn C, ss together the corners of the Peak Top and the Peak Bottom, ch1, dc in same place as ss, 65 dc evenly around the curve. Fasten off and weave in ends. Place the Peak insert in between the Peak Top and Peak Bottom. HEADBAND Using Yarn C, ch91. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [90 sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [90 sts] Change to Yarn A. Rows 3-5 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Change to Yarn B. 26 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

water bottle cover When coordinating a sporty look, don’t forget the all-important water bottle cover. Designed by Matthew Spiers.

Sirdar Cotton 4ply (100% cotton, 100g/335m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Hot Pink (511), Yarn B Mill White (501), Yarn C Laguna (536) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q Elastic thread Q Water bottle, base diameter 7cm

Q

TENSION 24 sts and 24 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over dc using a 2.5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS To fit water bottle 7cm (2žin) base diameter

NOTES The main body of the Bottle Cover is worked in rounds that are joined with a ss. Each round begins with ch1, which is not counted as a st. Always work the first dc into the same st at base of beg ch-1, otherwise you will lose a st. Change yarn on last yrh of final st of row before the colour change. STRAP Using Yarn A, ch61. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, changing to Yarn B on last yrh of last dc, turn. [60 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), dc in each st to end, changing to Yarn C on last yrh of last dc, turn. Row 3-5 Ch1, dc in each st to end, changing to Yarn B on last yrh of last dc of Row 5, turn.


SPORTY IDEAS

Row 6 Ch1, dc in each st to end, changing to Yarn A on last yrh of last dc, turn. Row 7 Ch1, dc in each st to end, do not turn. Fold strap in half lengthways, so that RS is facing outwards. Row 8 Ch1, dc across both ends to join the strap together. [7 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. BOTTLE COVER Using Yarn C, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st here and throughout), 6dc into the loop, ss in first dc to join. [6 sts] Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in each st around, ss to first dc. [12 sts] Round 3 Ch1, (dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [18 sts] Round 4 Ch1, (dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [24 sts] Round 5 Ch1, (dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [30 sts] Round 6 Ch1, (dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [36 sts] Round 7 Ch1, (dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [42 sts] Round 8 Ch1, (dc in each of next 6 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [48 sts] Round 9 Ch1, (dc in each of next 7 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [54 sts] Round 10 Ch1, (dc in each of next 8 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [60 sts] Rounds 11-12 Ch1, dc in bl of each st around, ss to first dc. Rounds 13-17 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn B on yrh of last ss. Rounds 18-19 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn C on yrh of last ss. Rounds 20-22 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn A on yrh of last ss. Rounds 23-24 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn C on yrh of last ss. Rounds 25-27 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn B on yrh of last ss. Rounds 28-29 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc. Round 30 Ch1, *dc in next st, dc in bl of next st; rep from * around, ss to first dc. Rounds 31-32 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc. Remove hook and pull up loop (you can place a stitch marker around loop so it doesn’t slip back through the work). Round 33a (Surface round) Join Yarn C Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

with a ss in back loop of next st of Round 32, *dtr in unworked front loop below of Round 30, skip next st of Round 32, ss in back loop of next st of Round 32; rep from * around, ending with a ss in same place as beg ss. [30 dtr and 30 skipped sts] Place hook back in Yarn B loop and pull in any slack. Round 33b (Main round) Ch1, dc in each st around (covering over Round 33a Surface round and working into Round 32 stitches, going into both loops of the stitches with a ss in them and into each of the skipped sts – this will leave only the dtrs showing), ss to first dc. [60 sts] Round 34 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn C on yrh of ss. Rounds 35-37 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn A on yrh of last ss. Rounds 38-39 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn B on yrh of last ss. Round 40 Ch1, (dc in bl of each of next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts) around, ss to first dc. Rounds 41-42 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss into first dc, changing to Yarn A on yrh of last ss. Round 43a (Surface round) In Yarn A, ss in back loop of each of next 2 sts of Round 42, dtr in second unworked front loop below in Round 40 (which will be behind your current st), *dtr in next unworked front loop below of Round 40 which will be in front of your current st, skip next 2 sts of Round 42, ss in bl of each of next 4 sts of Round 42, dtr in next unworked front loop below in Round 40 (which will behind your current st); rep from * to last 3 sts, dtr in first unworked front loop below of Round 40 which will be in front of your current st, skip next 2 sts of Round 42, ss in bl of next st, ss in same place as beg ss. [20 dtr over skipped sts and 40 ss] Round 43b (Main round) Ch1, dc in each st around (covering over Round 43a Surface round and working into Round 42 sts, going into both loops of the sts with a ss in them, and into each of the skipped sts, working around, rather than between the dtrs – this will leave only the dtrs showing), ss in first dc. Round 44 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn C on yrh of ss. Rounds 45-47 In Yarn C, ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn B on yrh of last ss. Round 48-54 Repeat Rounds 28-34, including colour changes.

Rounds 55-57 With Yarn C, ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn A on yrh of last ss. Round 58 With Yarn A, ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc. Round 59 Ch1, dc in first st, now working through both the 7 sts of strap (from Round 8), as well as sts of bottle cover, dc in each of next 7 sts, dc in each remaining st around bottle cover, ss in first dc, changing to Yarn C on yrh of ss. Rounds 60-62 With Yarn C, ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn B on yrh of last ss. Rounds 63-64 With Yarn B, ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc, changing to Yarn C on yrh of last ss. Rounds 65-66 With Yarn C, ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc. Using elastic thread, loosely tie a loop that measures the same as the circumference of the neck of the bottle. Make sure that elastic has enough stretch to fit around base of bottle. Round 67 Ch1, dc in each st around working over elastic loop, ss to first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

YARN STOCKISTS Sirdar www. sirdar.co.uk 01924 231682

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? s i n n e t r o Anyone f Pep up your wardrobe with Simone Francis’ fabulous raglan-sleeved tee, in pretty cool cottons.

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sporty t

4PLY WEIGHT

next st, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [37 (39: 42: 44: 47: 50) sts] Continue working on these 37 (39: 42: 44: 47: 50) sts only. Row 2 Ch2, htr in each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr to end, turn. [36 (37: 41: 43: 46: 49) sts] Row 4 Ch2, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [35 (37: 40: 42: 44: 48) sts] Rows 5-30 (32: 34: 36: 38: 40) Repeat Rows 4-5 until there are 11 (11: 12: 12: 13: 14) sts in the row. Fasten off.

Style it out in sportswear, on the court or simply in the office, with this handmade top. Simone’s raglan-sleeved tee with its cute stripes is guaranteed to make you look and feel like a sports star. Hit it.

EASY PEASY 3MM 3.5MM

NOTES YOU WILL NEED

The Top is worked in pieces, then a border is added onto each of the raglan edges and joined using slip stitch seams. Once the Sleeves are attached to the front and back, lace stripes are crocheted sideways into the row ends of the Back, Front and underarm of the Sleeves. These panels are then slip stitched together to join.

Sirdar Cotton 4ply (100% cotton, 100g/335m) Yarn A White (501) Yarn B Laguna (536) Yarn C Hot Pink (511) See table for yarn quantities and measurements Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q Stitch markers For yarn stockists contact Sirdar 01924 231682 www.sirdar.co.uk Q

RIGHT BACK OPENING Row 1 With WS facing, skip marked stitch on Row 1 of Raglan Shaping. Join yarn in next st, ch2, htr in next 36 (38: 41: 43: 46: 49) sts, turn. [37 (39: 42: 44: 47: 50) sts] Row 2 Ch2, htr in each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch2, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [36 (37: 41: 43: 46: 49) sts] Row 4 Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr to end, turn. [35 (37: 40: 42: 44: 48) sts] Rows 5-30 (32: 34: 36: 38: 40) Repeat Rows 4-5 until there are 11 (11: 12: 12: 13: 14) sts in the row. Fasten off.

BACK With Yarn A and a 3mm hook, ch2, fdc 81 (85: 91: 95: 101: 107), working first fdc into 2nd ch from hook. Row 1 (WS) Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr into each st to end, turn. [81 (85: 91: 95: 101: 107) sts] Rows 2-57 Repeat Row 1, 56 times more.

TENSION 21 sts x 16 rows in htr to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) using a 3mm hook

RAGLAN SHAPING AND BACK OPENING

ABBREVIATIONS Fdc (foundation dc) *Insert hook in ch as indicated, yrh and pull through, ch1, yrh and pull through 2 loops; repeat from * working each fdc into the ch-1 from previous fdc, until you have the number of dc stated** For a full list, see page 92

Row 1 (RS) Ss in first 3 sts, ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 6 sts, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, turn leaving last 2 sts unworked. [75 (79: 85: 89: 95: 101) sts] Place marker in first ss and last unworked st to mark Raglan Border.

FRONT With Yarn A and a 3mm hook, ch2, fdc 81 (85: 91: 95: 101: 107), working first fdc into 2nd ch from hook. Row 1 (WS) Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr into each st to end, turn.

LEFT BACK OPENING Row 1 (WS) Ch2, htr in next 36 (38: 41: 43: 46: 49) sts, place another marker in the

SIZE c

TO FIT BUST b

ACTUAL BUST (APPROX) LENGTH

a

Width a: 43.5 (45.5: 48.25: 50.25: 56: 59)cm 17 (18: 19: 20: 22: 23¼)in Length b: 55 (56: 57.5: 58.5: 59.5: 61)cm 21½ (22: 22½: 23: 23½: 24)in Length c: 19.5 (20.5: 22: 23: 24: 25.5)cm 7¾ (8: 8¾: 9: 9½: 10)in 30 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

ARMHOLE DEPTH

8

10

12

14

16

18

cm

81

86

91

97

102

107

in

32

34

36

38

40

42

cm

87

91

96.5

100.5

112

118

in

34

36

38

40

44

46½

cm

55

56

57.5

58.5

59.5

61

in

21½

22

22½

23

23½

24

cm

19.5

20.5

22

23

24

25.5

in

8

9

10

YARN A WHITE

100g

2

3

3

3

3

4

YARN B LAGUNA

100g

1

1

1

1

1

1

YARN C HOT PINK

100g

1

1

1

1

1

1

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.


Work chain stitch ties at the back for the fastening.

[81 (85: 91: 95: 101: 107) sts] Rows 2-57 Repeat Row 1, 56 times more.

RAGLAN SHAPING Row 1 (RS) Ss in first 3 sts, ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 6 sts, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, turn leaving last 2 sts unworked. [75 (79: 85: 89: 95: 101) sts] Place marker in first ss and last unworked st to mark Raglan Border. Row 2 Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [73 (77: 83: 87: 93: 99) sts] Rows 3-4 Ch2, htr into each st to end, turn. [73 (77: 83: 87: 93: 99) sts Row 5 Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [71 (75: 81: 85: 91: 97) sts] Row 6 Repeat Row 5. [69 (73: 79: 83: 89: 95) sts] Row 7 Ch2, htr into each st to end, turn. [69 (73: 79: 83: 89: 95) sts] Rows 8-25 (28: 28: 31: 34: 31) Repeat Rows 2-4, 6 (7: 7: 8: 9: 8) times more. [45 (45: 51: 51: 53: 63) sts] Next row Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [43 (43: 49: 49: 51: 61) sts] Do not fasten off.

SIZES 10 AND 16 ONLY Go to Neck Shaping.

SIZES 8 AND 14 ONLY Row 27 (-: -: 33: -: -) Ch2, htr into each st to end, turn. [43 (-: -: 49: -: -) sts]

SIZE 12 ONLY Rows 30-31 Ch2, htr into each st to end, turn. [- (-: 49: -: -: -) sts]

SIZE 18 ONLY Rows 33-37 Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [- (-: -: -: -: 51) sts]

NECK SHAPING RIGHT SIDE Row 1 (WS) Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr in next 8 sts, htr2tog, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [10 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in next 3 sts, htr2tog, turn leaving last st unworked. [6 sts] Row 3 Ch2, htr in next 2 sts, htr2tog, turn leaving last st unworked. [4 sts] Row 4 Ch1 (counts as st), htr2tog. Fasten off. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

LEFT SIDE Row 1 (WS) With WS facing, skip next 21 (21: 27: 27: 29: 29) sts of last row of Front, rejoin yarn in next st, ch1 (does not count as st), htr in next 10 sts, turn. [10 sts] Row 2 Ch1, htr2tog, htr in next 3 sts, htr2tog, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [6 sts] Row 3 Ss to next st, ch1, htr in next 4 sts. [5 sts] Row 4 Ch1 (counts as st), htr2tog. Fasten off. SLEEVES RIGHT SLEEVE With Yarn A and a 3mm hook, ch2, fdc 53 (57: 61: 65: 69: 73), working first fdc into 2nd ch from hook. Row 1 (WS) Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr into each st to end, turn.

[53 (57: 61: 65: 69: 73) sts] Rows 2-4 Repeat Row 1, 3 times more.

RAGLAN SHAPING Row 1 (RS) Ss in first 3 sts, ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 6 sts, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, turn leaving last 2 sts unworked. [47 (51: 55: 59: 63: 67) sts] Place marker in first ss and last unworked st to mark Raglan Border. Rows 2-3 Ch2, htr into each st to end, turn. Row 4 Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, turn. [45 (49: 53: 57: 61: 65) sts] Rows 5-13 Repeat Rows 2-4, 3 times more. [39 (43: 47: 51: 55: 59) sts] Row 14 Ch2, htr into each st to end, turn. Row 15 Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, turn. [37 (41: 45: 49: 53: 57) sts] WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 31


sporty t Rows 16-23 (23: 23: 23: 23: 25) Repeat Rows 14-15, 5 (5: 5: 5: 5: 6) times more.

SIZE 18 ONLY Rows 26-36 Repeat Row 15, 11 times more. [- (-: -: -: -: 25) sts.

JOINING RAGLAN BORDERS With WS together and using a slip stitch seam through 1 loop only of each st, join raglan edges together matching short edge of Sleeve to short side of Front and long edge of Sleeve to long edge of Back neatly and evenly. Weave in all ends.

SIZES 8, 10, 12, 14 AND 16 ONLY Rows 24-26 (28: 30: 32: 33: -) Repeat Row 15, 3 (5: 7: 9: 10: -) more times. [23 (23: 23: 23: 25: -) sts]

ALL SIZES Next row Ch2 (counts as st), htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, htr2tog, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [6 sts] Next row Ch1 (does not count as st), htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in next st, fasten off leaving last st unworked. [4 sts] LEFT SLEEVE Work as Right Sleeve up to end of Row 26 (28: 30: 32: 33: 36), fasten off. Next row Rejoin yarn in 16th (16th: 16th: 16th: 18th: 18th) st, ch1 (does not count as st), htr in next 3 sts, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, turn. [6 sts] Next row Ch2 (counts as st), htr2tog twice, htr in next st, fasten off. [4 sts]

RAGLAN BORDER BACK BORDER Leave markers in place. Row 1 With a 3.5mm hook and RS of Back facing, join Yarn C with a ss to marked st to work towards neckline, ch2 (counts as st), htr in same st, ch1, skip next st, 2htr in next row end, *ch1, skip 1 row end, 2htr in next row end; repeat from * until 16 (17: 18: 19: 20: 21) htr groups are worked along raglan edge. Repeat Border on opposite side, starting at the top neck edge and working down the raglan edge, ending with the final htr group into the marked skipped st at armhole. [16 (17: 18: 19: 20: 21) htr groups]

SIDE STRIPED BORDER

BACK Row 1 With a 3.5mm hook and RS of Back facing, join Yarn C with a ss to bottom corner st to work into row ends along the side edge, ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr in same st, *ch1, skip 1 row end, 2htr in next row end; repeat from * until 29 htr groups have been worked along the side edge of Back, ch1, skip 1 row end, 2htr into marked corner st, ch1, skip raglan border, 2htr into marked corner st on Sleeve, ch,1 skip 1 row end, work 2 more htr groups along the side edge of Sleeve, turn. [33 htr groups] Row 2 Ch2, htr in next htr, *ch1, htr in each of next 2 htr; repeat from * to end, turn. Row 3 Repeat Row 2.

SIZES 16 AND 18 ONLY Repeat Row 2 once more, fasten off.

ALL SIZES Next row Join Yarn B in first st, repeat Row 2. Fasten off.

OPPOSITE SIDE Row 1 Beginning at Sleeve edge, join Yarn C in corner of starting ch, ch2, htr in same st, *ch1, skip 1 row end, 2htr in next row end; repeat from * twice more along sleeve edge, ch1, skip Raglan Border, 2htr into marked corner st on Back, *ch1, skip 1 row end, 2htr in next row end; repeat from * working down side edge. Work subsequent rows as for opposite side.

FRONT FRONT BORDER Repeat instructions for Back Border on both sides of Front raglan edge, working 15 (16: 17: 18: 19: 20) htr groups on each side.

SLEEVE BORDERS Repeat instructions for Back Border on both sides of Sleeve raglan edge, working 15 (16: 17: 18: 19: 20) htr groups on the shorter side (which will be attached to Front) and 16 (17: 18: 19: 20: 21) htr groups on the longer side (which will be attached to Back). 32 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

The contrasting stripes, worked along the side seams, add to the sportswear styling.

Repeating instructions for Back, work a border along both side edges of Front. TO MAKE UP With WS together and Yarn B, join Back and Front side edges together using slip stitch through 1 loop (inner loop) from each final border row along the side edges. NECK EDGE AND TIES With Yarn A and a 3mm hook, join yarn at neckline corner to work around vertical

Back opening, dc evenly around to opposite neckline corner. With a 3mm hook and yarn C, ch50, dc in first st at the neckline corner of Back opening to work around neckline, dc evenly around the neckline working across all seams and sleeves to opposite side of Back opening, ch50. Fasten off and weave in all ends. Block gently to measurements.


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KATE’S JOURNAL

o i d u t s e h t m o r ... f

Kate Bruning has had a great time with new and old friends teaching crochet workshops, despite some technical issues and typical festival weather! y knees were soaking, my back was aching, I was crawling around a chairless bell tent on bare, wet grass, a deafeningly loud band was playing five metres away and 14 people were squatting in a circle, desperately trying to learn the first steps of crochet. That was the day I questioned what I was doing with my life!

M

FESTIVAL FUN A month earlier, I had agreed to run a crochet workshop at a friend’s festival. We thought ten participants would be cosy, provided they all had basic crochet skills (something I always specify). However, along the way, something went awry... The lesson quickly changed from learning new stitches, to wrapping yarn around fingers. In the end (and in the most intense 45 minutes of my life), they had learned how to hold the hook and yarn and were chaining away (happily?). To this day I still don’t know if I inspired or simultaneously turned 12 people away from the joys of crochet. In spite of that gruelling ordeal, teaching workshops is my favourite

“Teaching works hops is my favo u rite th ing to d o, it ’s like pla n ning a pa rty.”

thing to do! From coming up with a fresh idea, to meeting the wonderful and varied participants, it’s almost like planning a birthday party. After all, with a bit of cake thrown in, what could be better than a group of enthusiastic crafters chatting and summoning moths from yarn? FRIENDS AND TREASURES Teaching has opened up travel for me. It makes such a difference in visiting family back in Australia by adding in a workshop or two. I have been so lucky that Julie from Little Woollie has invited me back to teach at her gorgeous shop in Hastings, just outside Melbourne. A treasure trove of yarn, woolly goods and pretty things, I secretly find it hard to concentrate because I just want to play with all of the yarny loveliness. And having had lots of returning students there, I always feel as though I’m catching up with old friends! TOADSTOOL TRIUMPH Speaking of travel, the first workshop I ever taught was with Amanda Bloom of Little Box of Crochet and was held at Hope

minutes “After an intense 45 the had learned how to hold the hook and yarn.”


“Teaching is inspir o travel.” and allows me t and Elvis in Worksop, Nottinghamshire. We were teaching the class how to make toadstools, a project I had designed for Amanda’s first box. Nestled in Louise Presley’s light-filled studio and treated to delicious food, I did find myself thinking that this was the best job ever – especially towards the end of the day when finished toadstools kept popping up, happily accompanied by delighted looks on their makers’ faces. I came away knowing a huge shift in direction had just taken place. NEW TECHNIQUES AND INSPIRATIONS Workshops have allowed me so much scope in developing a pattern. Some projects, regardless of how easy they are to make, can be complex to write and the tutorials difficult to

photograph. This is particularly true of a technique that I started to play with last year when I began incorporating wire into crocheted Australian wildflowers (see Step-by-step Success below). However, the effort was worth it as it turned into a perfect project to workshop, as the crochet itself is simple. It means the attendees left buzzing, filled with plans, which in turn inspired me! See what Kate has been up to by checking out her blog at www.greedyforcolour.blogspot.co.uk. You can also find her on Instagram as @greedyforcolour

step-by-step success Thee Autalian wildflowe made fo a pefect tutoial a the proce  involved opened up a diffeent skill set and theefoe, po ibilitie. It wa so eay to demontate the technique in real life to real people, but so had to captue all of the steps with my camea and the witten wod!

T urn to P a g e 6 5 fo r K ate’s new Se on ColOuR! rIes


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het

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Mr +Mrs. . . Celebrate the marriage of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle by crocheting the happy couple. Designed by Ilaria Caliri.


A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

Prince Harry and his bride Meghan are brought to life in Ilaria Caliri’s delightful dolls. The happy couple are dressed just as they were when they announced their engagement to the world: Harry in a blue suit and Meghan in a fitted green dress and glamorous white coat.

YOU WILL NEED Rico Ricorumi (100% cotton, 25g/57.5m): 3 balls of Yarn B White (001) 2 balls of each: Yarn A Light Beige (022) Yarn C Black (060) Yarn D Blue (035) Yarn G Beige (051) 1 ball of each: Yarn E Dark Orange (025) Yarn F Green (042) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q 2 pairs of safety eyes, 6 mm diameter Q 1 pair of eyelash extensions (optional) Q 2 tiny blue buttons Q Pipe cleaner (optional; not suitable for children under 3) Q Stitch markers Q Toy stuffing For yarn stockists contact Rico Design www.rico-design.co.uk Q

MEASUREMENTS Each finished doll measures 25cm (10in) tall

ABBREVIATIONS 3-tr bobble *Yrh, insert hook into stitch indicated, yrh and pull through loop, yrh and draw yarn through first two loops on hook, repeat from * two times more into the same stitch, yrh and draw through all loops on the hook For a full list, see page 92

NOTES Both dolls are worked in the amigurumi method (spiral rounds), unless otherwise stated. You do not need to close each round with a ss. You may find it helpful to place a stitch marker on the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work. Legs and Body are worked as one piece starting from the feet. The Arms are made first and joined while working the Body. All the other pieces are sewn to the Body. HARRY ARMS (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc into the magic loop. [5 sts] Round 2 2dc in first st, dc in next 4 sts. [6 sts] Round 3 2dc in first st, dc in next 5 sts. [7 sts] Round 4 2dc in first st, dc in next 2 sts, dtr in next st, dc in last 3 sts. [8 sts] Rounds 5-6 Dc in each st around. Join Yarn B. Rounds 7-15 Dc in each st around. [8 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. Stuff Arms with a pipe cleaner or toy stuffing. FIRST LEG Starting from the foot with Yarn C, ch6. Round 1 Dc in second ch from hook, dc in next 3 sts, 3dc in last ch, rotate to work along the opposite side of the foundation ch, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in last st. [12 sts] Round 2 2dc in first st, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next 3 sts, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in last 2 sts. [18 sts] Round 3 Dc in bl in each st around. Round 4 Dc in each st around. Round 5 Dc in first 5 sts, (tr2tog) 3 times, dc in next 7 sts. [15 sts] Join Yarn D. Rounds 6-19 Dc in each st around. Round 20 (Dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts) 3 times. [12 sts] Rounds 21-24 Dc in each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends. SECOND LEG AND BODY Repeat Rounds 1–24 of the first Leg. Do not cut the yarn, instead continue on to join the first Leg.

42 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Round 25 Start this round with both feet facing towards you, the first Leg on the left and the second Leg on the right, ch2, dc in 12 sts of the first Leg, dc in each ch of ch-2, dc in 12 sts of the second Leg, 2dc in opposite side of the foundation ch. [28 sts] Rounds 26-32 Dc in each st around. Join Yarn B. Rounds 33-41 Dc in each st around. Continue to dc around the Body for approx 8 sts until you reach the space where you will attach the Arms.

JOIN THE ARMS Round 42 Position one of the Arms close to the Body, dc around 8 sts on the first Arm, dc in next 14 sts of the Body, position the second Arm close to the Body and dc around 8 sts on the second Arm, dc across remaining 14 sts on the Body. [44 sts] Round 43 (Dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog) 2 times. [40 sts] Round 44 (Dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog) 4 times. [36 sts] Stuff the Body with toy stuffing and continue stuffing as you go. Round 45 (Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 46 (Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 47 (Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 48 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. Join Yarn A on the last round of the Body, at the middle of the back. Round 49 Dc in bl in each st around. [12 sts] HEAD With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the magic loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (2dc in next dc, dc in next 9 sts) 3 times. [33 sts] Rounds 7-13 Dc in each st around. Round 14 (Dc in next 9 sts, dc2tog) 3 times. [30 sts] Round 15 Dc in each st around. Round 16 (Dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog) 3 times. [27 sts] Round 17 Dc in each st around.


Secure the eyes between Rounds 13 and 14, approx 5 sts apart. Stuff the Head with toy stuffing and continue stuffing as you go. Round 18 (Dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog) 3 times. [24 sts] Round 19 (Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 20 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose using Yarn A across Rounds 14 and 15 of the Head, between the eyes. Stitch the mouth using Yarn C across Round 17, approx 4 sts wide.

HAIR AND BEARD Using Yarn E, embroider the beard and the eyebrows using the image as a guide. Cut short strands of Yarn E (approx 6 cm, just long enough to secure them on to the head). Fold each strand in half, insert hook into a st on the Head, pull centre of the strand through the stitch, next pull the tails from the strand through the loop on the hook. Pull by hand to tighten. Sew the Head to the Body. EARS (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, ch4. Row 1 Tr in the fourth ch from the hook. [1 st] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the ears between Rounds 12 and 14 of the Head. Position them between the hair to create the sideburns. SHIRT COLLAR With Yarn B, ch14. Row 1 Tr in fourth ch from the hook, 2tr in next ch, 2htr in next ch, 5dc in next 5 ch, 2tr in next ch, 2tr in next ch, tr in last ch, ch3, ss into the last ch. [16 sts] Fasten off, leaving a tail. Use the tail to sew the Collar to the shirt around Round 48 of the Body. TIE With Yarn C, ch13. Row 1 Ss in second ch from hook, dc in next 9 ch, ss in next ch, 3-tr bobble in last ch. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to the shirt. Wrap the yarn tail around the Collar and then sew it in place. SUIT JACKET FRONTS AND BACK With Yarn D, ch31. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Row 1 Dc in the second ch from the hook, dc across, turn. [30 sts] Rows 2–13 Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), dc across, turn. Row 14 Ch1, dc in first 6 sts, leave remaining stitches unworked, turn. [6 sts]

FIRST FRONT PIECE Rows 15–20 Ch1, dc across, turn. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

BACK Return to the unworked sts on Row 13, join Yarn D leaving a 3 st gap from the First Front Piece. Row 14 Ch1, dc in next 12 sts, turn. [12 sts] Rows 15-20 Repeat Row 14. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

SECOND FRONT PIECE Return to the unworked sts on Row 13, join Yarn D leaving a 3 st gap from the Back. Row 14 Ch1, dc in next 6 sts, turn. [6 sts] Rows 15-20 Repeat Row 14. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. SLEEVES (BOTH ALIKE) With Yarn D, ch13. Row 1 Skip the first ch from the hook, dc in the next 12 sts, turn. [12 sts] Rows 2–15 Ch1, dc in next 12 sts, turn. [12 sts] Fasten off, sew piece along seam. ASSEMBLE THE JACKET Position the Front Pieces in front of the Back and sew the shoulders for 3 sts. Sew the Sleeves to the Jacket. Fold the upper corners of the Fronts to create the collar. Sew two buttons on the front of the Jacket.

MEGHAN ARMS (MAKE 2) With Yarn G, make a magic loop. Rounds 1-4 As for Harry’s Arms. [8 sts] Rounds 5-15 Dc in each st around. [8 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. Stuff Arms with a pipe cleaner or toy stuffing. FIRST LEG Starting from the foot with Yarn B, ch7. Round 1 2htr in third ch from hook, htr in next 3 sts, 4htr in last ch, rotate to work along the opposite side of the foundation ch, htr in next 3 sts, 2htr in last st, ss to start join. [14 sts] Round 2 Dc in bl in each st around. [14 sts] Round 3 Dc in next 5 sts, tr2tog, tr in next st, tr2tog, dc in last 4 sts. [12 sts]

Embroider Harry’s beard and eyebrows, then add his hair by looping small strands of yarn.

Join Yarn G. Round 4 Dc in first 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in next st, dc2tog, dc in last 3 sts. [10 sts] Rounds 5-22 Dc in each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends. SECOND LEG AND BODY Repeat Rounds 1-22 of the first Leg, join Yarn B for her underwear, dc in next st in order to start the next round where both the Legs will be joined. Do not cut the yarn and continue joining the Legs. Round 23 Ch2, dc around 10 sts on the first Leg, dc in next 2 chs, dc around in 10 sts on the second Leg, dc in next 2 sts (opposite side of the foundation ch). [24 sts] Rounds 24-31 Dc in each dc around. [24 sts] Join Yarn G. Rounds 32-41 Dc in each st around. [24 sts] Dc across approx 8 sts to the side of the Body (this is where the first Arm will be placed).

JOIN THE ARMS Round 42 Position the first Arm close to the Body and dc around 8 sts of the Arm, dc in the next 12 sts on the Body, position the second Arm close to the Body and dc around 8 sts on the second Arm, dc next 12 sts of the Body. [40 sts] Round 43 (Dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog) 4 times. [36 sts] WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 43


AMIGURUMI ROYA COUP Stuff the Body with toy stuffing and continue stuffing as you go. Round 44 (Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 45 (Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 46 (Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 47 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts] Round 48 (Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) 3 times. [9 sts] Rounds 49-50 Dc in each st around. Fasten off and weave in the ends. HEAD With Yarn G, make a magic loop. Rounds 1-13 As for Harry’s Head. [33 sts] Round 14 Dc in each st around. Round 15 (Dc in next 9 sts, dc2tog) 3 times. [30 sts] Round 16 Dc in each st around. [30 sts] Round 17 (Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [24 sts] Secure the eyes, and insert the eyelashes, between Round 12 and 13 approx 7 sts apart. Stuff the Head with toy stuffing and continue stuffing as you go. Round 18 (Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) 6 times [18 sts] Round 19 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts] Round 20 (Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) 3 times. [9 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose using Yarn G across Round 13 of the Head, between the eyes. Stitch the mouth using Yarn C across Round 15, approx 4 sts wide. HAIR CAP With Yarn C, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the magic loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (2dc in next dc, dc in next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 sts] Rounds 7-14 Dc in each st around. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. The Hair Cap is used as a base for securing the hair. To make strands of hair, cut lengths of Yarn C measuring approx 40cm. Fold each strand in 44 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

half, insert hook into a st on the Hair Cap, pull centre of the strand through the stitch, next pull the tails from the strand through the loop on the hook. Pull by hand to tighten. Sew the Hair Cap onto the Head and comb the hair with a centre parting. DRESS With Yarn F, ch28, ss into the first ch to join. Round 1 Ch3 (count as first tr), tr in next 2 sts, 3tr in next st, (tr in next 6 sts, 3tr in next st) 3 times, tr in last 3 sts, ss to join. [36 sts] Round 2 Ch3, tr in next 4 sts, ch3, skip next 8 sts, tr in next 10 sts, ch3, skip next 8 sts, tr in next 5 sts, ss to close. [26 sts] Round 3 Ch3, tr in next 4 sts, tr in each of the next 3 ch, tr in next 10 sts, tr in each of the next 3 ch, tr in last 5 sts. [26 sts] Rounds 4 - 12 Dc in each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends. COAT FRONTS AND BACK With Yarn B, ch31. Row 1 Skip first ch from hook, dc in next 30 sts, turn. [30 sts] Rows 2–12 Ch1, dc in next 30 sts, turn. [30 sts] Row 13 Ch1, 2dc in next st, dc in next 28 sts, 2dc in next st. [32 sts] Row 14 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [32 sts] Row 15 Ch1, 2dc in next st, dc in next 30 sts, 2dc in next st, turn. [34 sts] Row 16 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [34 sts] Row 17 Ch1, 2dc in next st, dc in next 32 sts, 2dc in next st, turn. [36 sts] Row 18 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [36 sts] Row 19 Ch1, dc in next 12 sts, leave remaining stitches unworked, turn. [12 sts]

FIRST FRONT PIECE Rows 20–25 Ch1, dc in next 12 sts, turn. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

BACK Return to the unworked sts on Row 18, join Yarn B leaving a 3 st gap from the First Front Piece. Row 19 Ch1, dc in the next 12 sts, turn. [12 sts] Rows 20-25 Repeat Row 19 of the Back. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

SECOND FRONT PIECE Return to the unworked sts on Row 18, join Yarn B leaving a 3 st gap from the Back Piece.

Make Meghan’s coat separately and place it on the doll, then fasten it with a chain cord.

Attach the eyelashes behind Meghan’s safety eyes before embroidering the other features.

Row 19 Ch1, dc in next 6 sts, turn. [6 sts] Rows 20-25 Repeat Row 19 of the Second Front Piece. [6 sts] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. SLEEVES (BOTH ALIKE) With Yarn B, ch13. Row 1 Skip first ch from hook, dc in next 12 sts, turn. [12 sts] Rows 2-11 Ch1, dc in next 12 sts, turn. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Fold the piece in half and the use tail to sew the sleeve seam. ASSEMBLE THE COAT Fold the Front Pieces in front of the Back and sew the shoulders for 2 sts. Sew the Sleeves to the Coat. Fold the upper corners of the Fronts to create the collar. With Yarn B, ch70 for the belt.


Celebrating Nature’s Finest Fibres

‡ An award-winning event ‡ A wealth of advice ‡ A vibrant marketplace ‡ And a treasure trove of natural fibres Fri 22 June (10am - 6pm) Sat 23 June (10am - 5pm) 2018 Mitchell’s Lakeland Livestock Centre Cockermouth Cumbria CA13 0QQ 7LFNHWV  HDFK GD\  WZRGD\ WLFNHW  SURJUDPPH LQFOXGHG $FFRPSDQLHGFKLOGUHQIUHH Share our passion and enthusiasm for British wool and textile techniques from around the world Contact The Wool Clip cooperative on 016974 78707 or for more information visit

www.woolfest.co.uk RU ÀQG XV RQ VRFLDO PHGLD

The Original British Festival of Wool

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sia Yarn k n Ba DESIGN • CREATE • INSPIRE

We post internationally from Australia. We stock a range of quality Australian & UK yarns.

3c East Market St, Richmond, NSW 2753, Australia

banksiayarns.com.au


Cirque d’amour Hook yourself a little colourful romance with a circus-style cushion. By Melissa Masterson.


A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT

4.5MM 3.5MM

If you can’t run away to the circus, we have the next best thing. Whether it’s adorning a wicker chair in a conservatory, propped up on the bed or jostling for position in a textile-strewn caravan of dreams, this gorgeous cushion deserves pride of place. We could not love it more.

YOU WILL NEED Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton, 50g/125m) 3 balls of Yarn A Paper White (401) 1 ball of each: Yarn B Pillar Red (415) Yarn C Candyfloss Pink (450) Yarn D Daffodil Yellow (422) Yarn E Vintage Pink (456) Yarn F Sky Blue (439) Yarn G Dusty Lilac (447) Yarn H Bubblegum Pink (451) Yarn J Lime Green (429) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q A 40x30cm cushion pad For yarn stockists contact Paintbox Yarns www.paintboxyarns.com or Love Crochet www.lovecrochet.com Q

TENSION 15 sts and 14 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) using a 4.5mm hook

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

‘L’ DECORATIONS

STRAIGHT LINES (MAKE 3) Using Yarn F, ch4. Row 1 Ss in 2nd ch from hook and each of next 2 ch, fasten off.

NOTES All pieces are worked with a 3.5mm hook except the Cushion Backing, which is worked with a 4.5mm hook. CUSHION BACKGROUND (MAKE 2) Using a 4.5mm hook and Yarn A, ch62, htr in 3rd ch from hook, htr in each ch across. [61 htr] Rows 1-41 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in each st across, turn. [61 htr] Fasten off and weave in ends. Change to a 3.5mm hook. LETTER ‘L’

VERTICAL OF ‘L’ With Yarn B, ch21. Row 1 Ss in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (serif formed), htr in each of next 16 ch, turn leaving last 2 ch unworked to form serif. [16 htr] Rows 2-3 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in each st across, turn. [16 sts] Row 4 Ch5, ss in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (counts as serif and htr), htr in each st across, ch2 (serif formed). Fasten off and weave in ends without pulling serifs out of shape.

HORIZONTAL OF ‘L’ With Yarn B, ch8. Row 1 Ss in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, htr in next ch, tr in each of next 4 ch, turn. [7 sts] Row 2 Ch4, ss in 2nd ch from hook, htr in st at base of ch-4, dc in next st, ss in next st, fasten off leaving remaining sts unworked. Using the image as a guide, sew the end of the ch-4 in Row 2 of the Horizontal of ‘L’ to the serif at the bottom of the Vertical.

SHADOW OF ‘L’ Join Yarn C to work along the top edge of the Vertical of ‘L’, ch1, 3dc in first st of serif, 8dc evenly across the top edge, fasten off. Rejoin Yarn C at bottom corner of the Horizontal of ‘L’ to work along the right edge of the ‘L’, ch1, dc along edge, 2dc into point, rotate to work along diagonal edge, dc in each st to corner, rotate to work along right edge of the Vertical, dc in each Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

st across to the serif. Fasten off.

SMALL CIRCLE Using Yarn G, make a magic ring. Round 1 Ch2, 8htr into ring, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join, fasten off.

SMALL TRIANGLE Using Yarn D, ch3. Row 1 Skip first ch, dc2tog, fasten off. Weave in all ends and sew Decorations to ‘L’ using image as a guide. LETTER ‘O’ With Yarn D, ch44, ss to first ch to join. Round 1 Ch1 (counts as st throughout), ss in first ch, dc in next ch, htr in next 17 ch, dc in next ch, ss in next 3 ch, dc in next ch, htr in next 17 ch, dc in next ch, ss in next 2 ch, ss to first ss to join. [44 sts] Round 2 Ch1, ss in first st, ss in next st, 2dc in next st, 2htr in next st, htr in next 13 sts, 2htr in next st, 2dc in next st, ss in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st, 2htr in next st, htr in next 13 sts, 2htr in next st, 2dc in next st, ss in next 3 sts, ss to first ss to join, fasten off. [52 sts] Round 3a Rejoin yarn in 3rd htr, ch1, dc in next st, htr in each of next 8 sts, dc in next st, ss in next st, fasten off. Round 3b Skip next 14 sts, rejoin yarn in next htr (3rd of opposite side), ch1, dc in next st, htr in each of next 8 sts, dc in next st, ss in next st, fasten off. Round 4a Rejoin yarn in first htr in Round 3a, ch1, dc in next st, htr in next 6 sts, dc in next st, ss in next st, fasten off. Round 4b Rejoin Yarn in first htr in Round 3b, ch1, dc in next st, htr in next 6 sts, dc in next st, ss in next st, fasten off.

SHADOW OF ‘O’ OUTER Join Yarn E in 2nd htr of Round 2 (the last unworked st before Round 3a), working around the edge of the ‘O’, ch1, ss in next st, dc in next 20sts, ss in next 2 sts, fasten off.

INNER Using the image as a guide, join Yarn E to work down the inner vertical edge of the ‘O’, ch1, dc in next 14 ch, ss in next 2 ch, fasten off. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 47


ov cushion ‘O’ DECORATIONS Make 2 Small Circles as for the ‘L’ using Yarn H. Make 4 Small Triangles as for the ‘L’ using Yarn J. Weave in all ends and sew Decorations to ‘O’ using image as a guide. LETTER ‘V’

LEFT PART OF ‘V’ With Yarn F, ch21. Row 1 Htr in 3rd ch from hook and next 17 ch, turn leaving last 2 ch unworked to form the top serif. [18 htr] Row 2 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in next 13 sts, dc in next st, ss in next st, turn. [16 sts] Row 3 Ch1 (counts as ss), ss in next st, dc in next st, htr in next 13 sts, turn. [16 sts] Row 4 Ch5, ss in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, htr in next 11 sts, dc in next st, ss in next st. Fasten off.

RIGHT PART OF ‘V’ Using Yarn F, ch14. Row 1 Ss in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, ch3, ss in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (serif formed), working along initial ch, ss in each ch across. Using the image as a guide, sew the Right and Left parts of the ‘V’ together with the serifs at the top.

SHADOW OF ‘V’ Using the image as a guide, join Yarn H to work along the top edge of the Left Part of ‘V’, ch1, 3dc in first st of serif, 6dc evenly across the top edge, fasten off. Rejoin Yarn H to work along the serif edge of the Right Part of ‘V’, ch1, 3dc in first st of serif, 3dc evenly across the top edge, fasten off. Rejoin Yarn H to work along the right-hand edge of the ‘V’, dc in each st along to the serif, fasten off. Rejoin Yarn H to work along the right-hand edge of the Left part of ‘V’, dc in each st along to the serif, fasten off. ‘V’ DECORATIONS Make a Small Circle as for the ‘L’ using Yarn E. Make 3 Straight Lines as for the ‘L’ using Yarn C. Weave in all ends and sew decorations to ‘V’ using image as a guide.

serif at the bottom of the Vertical, repeat at the top.

CENTRE OF ‘E’ Using Yarn J, ch9. Row 1 Ss in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, htr in next 3 ch, dc in next ch, ss in next ch, turn, leaving last ch unworked. Row 2 Ch1, ss in next st, htr in next st, ss in next st, turn. Row 3 Ch2, ss in 2nd ch from hook, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew Row 3 of Centre to the centre point along the right edge of the Vertical of ‘E’.

SHADOW OF ‘E’ Using the image as a guide, join Yarn G to work along the right edge of the top right part of ‘E’, ch1, 7dc evenly up right edge, 2dc into corner, 14dc evenly across the top of the letter. Fasten off. Rejoin Yarn G to work along the right edge of the lower right part of ‘E’, ch1, 7dc evenly up right edge, 3dc into corner, dc evenly across diagonal to next corner, dc evenly up to Centre of ‘E’, fasten off. Rejoin Yarn G to work along the right edge of the centre part of ‘E’, ch1, dc evenly up right edge, 3dc into corner, dc evenly across diagonal to next corner, dc evenly up to top of ‘E’. Fasten off. ‘E’ DECORATIONS Make a Small Circle as for the ‘L’ using Yarn E.

HORIZONTALS OF ‘E’ (MAKE 2) Using Yarn J, work as Rows 1-2 of Horizontal of ‘L’. Using the image as a guide, sew the end of the ch-4 in Row 2 of the Horizontal to the

With first colour, ch30. Row 1 Ss in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, htr

VERTICAL OF ‘E’ With Yarn J, work as Rows 1-4 of Vertical of ‘L’.

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in next ch, tr in next 5 ch, htr in next ch, dc in next ch, ss in next ch, dc in next ch, htr in next ch, tr in next 13 ch, htr in next ch, dc in next ch, ss in next ch, fasten off. Row 2 Rotate to work along opposite side of starting ch, join second colour in first ch, ch1, dc in next 16 ch, ss in next ch, fasten off. Row 3 Rejoin second colour in first st of Row 1, ch1, dc in next 8 sts, ss in next st, fasten off. LARGE CIRCLE (MAKE 2) Make 1 using Yarn F and 1 using Yarn H. Make a magic ring. Round 1 Ch2, 8htr into ring, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [9 sts] Round 2 Ch2, htr in st at base of ch-2, 2htr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. Fasten off. [18 sts] Make 1 Small Circle using Yarn C and 1 using Yarn J. Pin the Small Circle to the centre of the Large Circle and sew into place.

LARGE TRIANGLE (MAKE 2) Using Yarn D, ch5. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and next 3 ch, turn. [4 dc] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st) dc2tog, dc in next st, turn leaving last st unworked. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st) dc2tog. Fasten off. Weave in all ends and sew Decorations to ‘E’ using image as a guide. SWIRLS (MAKE 8) Make 1 in each of the following colourways: Yarn J and Yarn G. Yarn G and Yarn J. Yarn E and Yarn C. Yarn C and Yarn E. Yarn F and Yarn D. Yarn D and Yarn F. Yarn B and Yarn H. Yarn H and Yarn B.

LETTER ‘E’

Make each part separately, then stitch them together before assembling the cushion.

TO MAKE UP Using the image as a guide, pin the Letters to the middle of the Cushion Cover Front ensuring they are spaced evenly. Pin the Circles above and below the Letters in line with the middle space of the word, and sew into place. Pin the Swirls above and below the Letters either side of the Circle, and sew into place. Place the Cushion Cover Front and Back together taking care to match the stitches. Working along the top edge using Yarn A and 4.5mm hook, ch1, dc in each stitch around, working 3dc in each corner and inserting cushion pad before completing the last edge. Fasten off and weave in ends.


J W RY b ads EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Scheepjes River Washed (78% cotton, 22% acrylic, 50g/130m), 1 ball of Steenbras (942) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q 8 wooden beads, 1cm diameter (6 for necklace, 2 for bracelet) Q 4 wooden beads, 2cm diameter (2 for necklace, 2 for bracelet) Q A selection of buttons of your choice, 1-2.5cm diameter (approx 32 for necklace, 20 for bracelet) Q Leather cord, 1mm diameter, approx 1.2m (for necklace) Q Clear beading elastic, approx 30cm (for bracelet) Q Toy stuffing Q Stitch marker For yarn stockists contact Scheepjes www.scheepjes.com/en Q

MEASUREMENTS Bead measures approx 2.5cm (1in)

ABBREVIATIONS Inv dec Insert hook under fl of next st, then under fl only of next st, yrh, draw hook through first 2 loops on hook, yrh, draw yarn through final 2 loops on hook For a full list, see page 92

These snazzy beads are a cinch to hook – simply double crochet all the way with a little bit of increasing here and decreasing there. They only use a small amount of yarn, so you can make them up in no time. Esme has fashioned the beads into a necklace and bracelet, but there are so many ways you can use them, you might find yourself making dozens!

NOTES Use more or fewer Beads and buttons as required for your design. Beads are worked in the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Baublicious Esme Crick’s beautiful beads can be used for jewellery, or even light pulls and decorations! BEAD (MAKE 7) Make 3 for the necklace, 4 for the bracelet. Ch2. Round 1 7dc in 2nd ch from hook. [7 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [14 sts] Round 3 Dc in each st around. [14 sts] Round 4 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 7 times. [21 sts] Rounds 5-6 Dc in each st around. Round 7 (Inv dec, dc in next st) 7 times. [14 sts] Round 8 Dc in each st around. Fill Bead with toy stuffing. Round 9 (Inv dec, dc in next st) 7 times. [7 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail, thread tail onto needle and weave through all sts of last round, pull tight to close.

TO MAKE UP

NECKLACE Arrange Beads and buttons into your desired patterns before threading using the image as a guide, then thread onto the leather cord. Tie knots at the start and end of each bead-button section to hold in place.

BRACELET Arrange Beads and buttons into your desired patterns before threading using the image as a guide, then thread them onto the clear beading elastic. Firmly knot the elastic ends together once you’ve finished. Weave in ends and add a dab of strong glue to the knot to hold, if necessary. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 49


Sweet nougat Every nursery needs woolly blankets, and this one by Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz is soft and pretty.


EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED DROPS Baby Merino, (100% merino wool, 50g/175m), 3 balls of each: Light Pink (05) White (01) 1 ball of each: Lime (09) Light Yellow (03) Q A 3mm (C/2 or D/3) hook For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

Snuggle up with little ones in the softest of blankets. This one is made in a light and airy stitch pattern and has a lacy border worked in complementary colours. DROPS Baby Merino is itch-free, making it kind to delicate skin. It comes in 43 colours, from lights to darks, so it’s easy to find a combo to suit any style of nursery.

Q

TENSION 18 sts and 9 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over tr using a 3mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Finished Blanket measures 100cmx75cm (39x29½in)

ABBREVIATIONS v-st (Tr, ch1, tr) in same st 3-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 3 times, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 4 loops on hook shell 5tr in same st For a full list, see page 92

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BLANKET With Light Pink, ch184. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 4th ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [182 tr] Row 2 (WS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in each st across to end, fasten off. [182 tr] Row 3 (RS) Join Lime in first st, ch3, skip next tr, v-st in next tr, *skip next 2 tr, v-st in next tr; repeat from * across to last 2 sts, skip next st, tr in last st, turn, fasten off. [60 v-st, 2 tr] Row 4 (WS) Join Light Yellow in first st, ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), 3-tr cluster in next v-st, *ch2, 3-tr cluster in next v-st; repeat from * across to last v-st, ch1, tr in last st, turn, fasten off. [60 3-tr clusters, 2 tr] Row 5 (RS) Join White in first st, ch3, tr in ch-1 sp, tr in next 3-tr cluster, *2tr in ch-2 sp, tr in next 3-tr cluster; repeat from * across to last 3-tr cluster, tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in last tr, turn. [182 tr] Row 6 Ch3, tr in each st across, turn. Rows 7-10 Repeat Row 6, fasten off. Row 11 Join Light Pink in first st, ch3, tr in each st across, turn. Rows 12-16 Ch3, tr in each st across, turn, fasten off.

The edges of the long sides are worked with a row of pretty shell stitches made with trebles.

Rows 17 Join White in first st, ch3, tr in each st across, turn. Rows 18-22 Ch3, tr in each st across, turn, fasten off. Rows 23-58 Repeat Rows 11-22 three times more. Rows 59-64 Repeat Rows 11-16 three times more. Rows 65-68 Repeat Rows 3-6, fasten off. BORDER With RS facing, join Light Pink in first st of Row 68, ch3 (counts as tr), *skip next 2 sts, (shell in next tr, ch2, skip next 3 tr, dc in next tr, ch2, skip next 3 tr) 22 times, shell in next tr, skip next tr, 3tr in last st (first corner made), rotate to work into row ends, (ch3, dc into next row end) across to next corner, ch3, rotate to work into opposite side of starting chain, 3tr in first ch; repeat from * once more omitting last 3tr, 2tr in same st as beg ch3, ss to top of beg ch3 to join. Weave in all ends and block to size.

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GOOD READ Susan says that all colours work together, as long as you work with the right shades.

Designer Susan Pinner’s experimental approach uncovers the beautiful yarn combinations that result in stunning projects we adore. usan Pinner caught our eye with her rainbow-fusion granny square explosion blankets, shawls and wraps. While her vibrant colour palette thrills our aesthetic sensibilities, Susan’s canny use of remnants appeals to our eco-conscious side, and her overall passion for the craft speaks to our crochet-obsessed core. “I’m crocheting in bed right now,” she tells us over the phone. “That’s how I work best, surrounded by balls of yarn in all kinds of colours and hooking up sample after sample to find the most attractive combinations.” Yes, we’ll confess, we’re jealous right now. After being taught to crochet by a friend’s grandma when she was eight, Susan made her first granny square blanket when she

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was 14, around 1966. “Someone had given me a huge bag of rug wool, and if you’ve ever worked with that you’ll know you get sore fingers very quickly. It’s really rough,” she says, meaning it took another few years for Susan’s dedication to crochet to take hold. “I rediscovered crochet in 2008,” she says. “This time I was back with a vengeance. I did a degree in fashion textiles, and have designed bridalwear, hats, ecclesiastical embroidery, illustration… you name it, I’ve done it!” she says. “After getting divorced in 2006, I suddenly had a lot more time on my hands. Once I’d finished renovating the house, I was ready to think about trying something crafty. The first thing I did was take a T-shirt and turn it into strips, which I crocheted into a little

bag,” she says. “Then I went to my local yarn shop in Little Wenlock, Shropshire, and bought a dozen bright balls of yarn.” YARNY TREASURES Before long Susan was ready to launch her blog as a place to share the patterns she was creating, and she also has a Facebook group with an impressive 11,000 members. After she’d been blogging for just two years, GMC got in touch inviting Susan to write her first crochet book. “At first I couldn’t believe it was a real offer, but they reassured me that it was true.” Susan’s first two books swiftly became prizewinning bestsellers. “I have dozens of books in me, but the work involved is huge. I’d rather keep that time for crochet and other projects.”


GOOD READ

These other projects include Susan’s pattern club, which she resurrected in 2017 to great acclaim. “People pay £20 to receive 12 original patterns in a year,” she explains. “I was in shock at how successful it was! New people were still signing up in December. It’s strange for me to be making money from this, after giving my patterns away for free for so many years.” COLOURFUL CALS What are free, are Susan’s CALs (crochetalongs) on her blog, including the recent Scrap Granny Ripple, Spinning Top and Chunky Monkey CALs. “I do one or two mini CALs every year , such as the Daisy Ripple one that finished in February. I don’t plan them, but often I create a pattern that I realise would work well broken down into several sections.” The highlight, she says, is seeing others’ interpretations of her designs. “The pattern in mine, but the colour choices mean there are hundreds of versions.” Colour has always been a driving force for Susan’s crochet creativity, thanks to an encounter when studying at Shrewsbury College in the 1960s. “My lecturer called my colour choices diabolical. That memory has made me spend the whole of my life studying colour. It means a lot to me when someone says they like my colours,” she explains. She has a particular interest in experimenting with unusual mixes. “In my opinion all colours go together, but you need the right shades. You need the right pink with the right blue with the right yellow and the right green.” Susan devotes many hours to crocheting and playing to suss out new colour and texture combinations. “I’m lucky that I have a large craft room, with a conservatory roof, so the light is fantastic. “I often work with up to Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

20 colours at a time, so there’s yarn simply everywhere. I always say that if you have a tidy work space, you’re not working hard enough.” Inspirations tend to be vibrantly colourful too, as well as crafters including Susan Carlson (www.feltedbutton.com), Daniela Cerri (www.danielacerri.blogspot.com), and French designer Sophie Digard. “I look at a lot of tapestry weaves, mosaics, Mexican designs, colourful periods of history. Architecture, too, inspires me. I work from grid patterns of hexagons and crosses, changing colours every row or every other row.” YARNY TREASURES Susan is happiest when devising new ways to use up the yarn scraps from larger projects. “I love to crochet my leftover yarns into flowers, stars and triangles,” she says. “I’m not a traditionalist, but I do like the concept of granny squares. I’ve got a pamphlet dating from the 1800s which shows the first granny squares. That book is my pride and joy.” This activity taps into Susan’s desire to try as many different crochet options as possible, including mastering techniques such as an old vintage stitch called Ancient Pineapple . “I love to mix up colours, textures and yarn weights,” she says. “For instance, if you use a large hook

and 4ply yarn you get a lovely lacy look. I challenge myself to learn all the time.” Susan relishes the chance to share her hard-won crochet wisdom with others by getting together with big groups of crocheters through her Facebook page, which you can join at www.facebook.com/groups/ 415936375263228. “I’ll just announce that we’re off somewhere in our camper van and invite people to join us. They book themselves onto the site and everyone brings their work. “I don’t teach workshops as such, but I’ll help people with their crochet if I can,” she says. “My most recent one was at Wool@J13 in the middle of last May, which combined the show and my crochet retreat.” Keep an eye on her Facebook page for announcements of news and CALs. With so much going on, Susan says that the biggest distraction is the constant flow of design concepts. “If I have an idea, I want to have a play with it and see how it will look. I’m always putting projects aside to try something new,” Susan admits. “There are so many possibilities with crochet that I can’t help but go off on tangents. That’s the best part. I could do that all day!” Written by Judy Darley Find out more about Susan’s future plans at www.shropshirescrappersuz.blogspot.co.uk

“MY LECTURER CALLED MY COLOUR CHOICES DIABOLICAL. IT MADE ME SPEND MY LIFE STUDYING COLOUR”

A few of her favourite things When Susan’s not crocheting…

“We go away to a lot of the camper shows at weekends. There are clubs and meets and in the summer we often all trundle off to the coast together. And I’ve just joined the WI. I picked a group located about 10 miles away because the members do a lot of crafts, which makes it well worth the journey.”

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Psst

Wo  k  w o o ff e it h e   n should e  !


Sideways look Get in on a huge trend for 2018 with the unusual assymetrical styling of Sharon Murphy’s lacy poncho.

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Don’t let on how simple the construction of this poncho is – a rectangle seamed in a clever way. Instead, let everyone believe you’re a textile architectural genius and keep your crafty secret close to your chest.

EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

4.5MM HOOK

NOTES YOU WILL NEED

The main part of the Poncho is made as a straight rectangle, then seamed together as shown in the diagram. Borders are then worked around the neckline edge and the bottom edge, and are worked in the round. Change yarn shade in the last yrh of the previous stitch.

Yarn Stories Fine Merino DK (100% wool, 50g/120m) Yarn A Dove (2506) Yarn B Primrose (2513) See table for yarn amounts and measurements Q Stitch markers Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook For yarn stockists contact Yarn Stories 01484 848431 www.yarnstories.com Q

PONCHO With Yarn A, ch88 (112). Row 1 (RS) Tr in 6th ch from hook (counts as tr, ch1, tr), *ch1, skip next st, tr in next st; rep from * to end, turn. [85 (109) sts] Row 2 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip next ch-1 sp, tr in next tr, *ch1, skip next ch-1 sp, tr in next tr; rep from * to end, with last tr in top of the 3 turning ch that count as last tr, turn. Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), *skip next (ch-1 sp, tr), tr in next ch-1 sp, ch3, 3tr around the post of the previous tr (block made), skip (tr, ch-1 sp), tr in next tr; rep from * ending last rep with tr in third ch of beg ch-4, turn. [14 (18) blocks]

TENSION 24 sts and 9 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over patt using a 4.5mm hook

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

b

b

SIZE ACTUAL BUST

LENGTH AT BACK c

LENGTH AT SIDE Width a: 104 (144)cm 41 (56¾)in Length at back b: 45 (54)cm 17¾ (21½)in Length at side c: 44 (55)cm 17¼ (21½)in 56 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

TO MAKE UP Lay the piece out WS facing and fold as shown on the Diagram so that point A meets point A and point B meets point B. Sew together between A and B as shown. NECKLINE BORDER With RS facing, join Yarn A in any row end st on the Neckline edge at the back of the work. Work Round 1 loosely. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc evenly around working 2dc in each row end, ending with ss in top of first dc to close the round.

a

b

Row 4 Ch5 (counts as tr, ch2), *skip 3tr of next block, dc in top of ch-3 of same block, ch2, skip next (tr, ch1), tr in next tr, ch2; rep from * ending last rep with tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. [85 (109) sts] Row 5 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), *(tr in next ch-2 sp, ch1) twice, tr in next tr, ch1; rep from * ending with last tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. Repeat Rows 2-5 until piece measures approx 122 (162)cm long. Fasten off and weave in ends. Block before seaming and working the Neckline and Border.

a

WRONG SIDE

a

The neckline border is not only pretty, but it strengthens the row ends of the rectangle.

S/M

L/XL

cm

104

144

in

41

56¾

cm

45

55

in

17¾

21½

cm

88

110

in

34½

43¼

YARN A DOVE

50g

6

9

YARN B PRIMROSE

50g

2

3

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.


Round 2 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), *skip 1 dc, tr in next dc, ch1, rep from * around ending with ss into top of first tr to close the round. Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), htr in same st, place marker in first htr, (htr in ch-1 sp, htr in next tr) around, ending with last htr in ch-1 sp, do not close the round with ss, move the st marker to first htr of each row. Round 4 Htr in bl of each htr, do not close the round with ss.

SIZE S/M ONLY Round 5 As Round 4. Change to Yarn B. Round 6 Place 4 stitch markers evenly spaced in round, *htr in bl to st marker, htr2tog in bl over next two sts; rep from * until last st, change to Yarn A. Round 7 Htr in bl around, ending with ss in first st of round. Round 8 Ss in each st to end. Fasten off and weave in ends.

SIZE L/XL ONLY Round 5 Place 4 stitch markers evenly spaced in round, *htr in bl to st marker, htr2tog over next two sts; rep from * until last st, change to Yarn B. Round 6 As Round 4, change to Yarn A. Round 7 As Round 5, continue in Yarn A. Round 8 Htr in bl around, ending with ss in first st of round. Round 9 Ss in each st to end. Fasten off and weave in ends. BOTTOM BORDER With RS facing, join Yarn A in any row end st on the bottom edge at the back of the work. Work Round 1 loosely.

Work the first row of the borders loosely to ensure a flowing drape.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc evenly around, working 2dc in each row end and (dc, ch1, dc) in corner, ending with ss in top of first dc to close the round. Round 2 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), *skip 1 dc, tr in next dc, ch1; rep from * around, working (tr, ch4, tr) in corner ch-1 sp, ss to third ch of beg ch-4. Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), place stitch marker in first st, htr in same st, (htr in next ch-1 sp, htr in next tr) around, working (3htr, ch1, 3htr) in corner ch-4 sp, ending with last htr in ch-1 sp, do not close the round with ss, change colour on last st to Yarn B. Round 4-6 Htr in bl of each htr, working

(2htr, ch1, 2htr) in corner ch-1 sp, do not close the round with ss. Change to Yarn A. Round 7 Htr in bl of each htr, working (2htr, ch1, 2htr) in corner ch-1 sp, do not close the round with ss. Round 8 Tr in bl of first st, (ch1, skip next htr, tr in bl of next htr) to last 2 sts before corner ch-1 sp, ch1, (tr, ch6, tr) in corner ch-1 sp, (ch1, skip next htr, tr in bl of next htr) to end, ss in top of first tr. Round 9 As Round 3, working (3htr, ch1, 3htr) in corner ch-6 sp, change to Yarn B. Round 10 As Round 7, closing with a ss at the end of the round. Round 11 Ss in each st to end. Fasten off and weave in ends.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR IN ROWS

1 Start working the last stitch of the last row of the old colour, but stop before you work the final yrh of the stitch. Cut off the old yarn, leaving a tail about 7cm long.

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2 Now loop your new yarn colour around the hook, leaving a long tail of yarn (about 7cm long).

3 Pull the new yarn loop through the remaining two loops to finish off the stitch. Pull the old and new yarn ends to tighten the loop on the hook.

4 Now you can work the turning chain of the new row in the new colour (for example, 3ch for treble, or 2ch for half treble). Then work the stitches of the new row in the new yarn colour.

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26 PROJECTS TO MAKE FOR THE LITTLE ONES IN YOUR LIFE

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Call 03330 162 138 AND QUOTE ‘MOLLIE MAKES MAMA 2 PRINT 1’ Online WWW.BUYSUBSCRIPTIONS.COM/MAMA2 Lines open weekdays 8am to 6pm and Saturday 9am to 1pm. Overseas please call +44 (0) 3330 162 138. * EUR price £12.99, ROW price £13.49. All prices include P&P. Please allow up to 28 days for delivery.


Win the yan to make the winning project! Ente by voting fo you favouite on Intagram #hooktohook @simplycochetmag

hook to hook

Seaside strolling

win

We challenged two designers to come up with a fab design, each using the same yarn… which is your fave?

Samantha Osmond I’m very lucky to live by the coast. For me, warm sunny days are a time for walks on the beach, sand squishing between my toes and salty water lapping at bare feet. When designing this scarf I was inspired by my childhood spent exploring rock pools and watching boats bobbing up and down on the water. The colours of the yarn reminded me of these wonderful memories and I wanted to design a scarf that relected this. Samantha can be found online at Instagram @travelling_ava and www.travellingava.com

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Ruth Haydock “The inspiration for this design came from a trip to Lyme Regis, in Dorset, one breezy summer’s day. I was so excited to visit the Fossil Museum and then do some fossil-hunting on the beach. Though I didn’t ind any, I did come across soft sand, beautiful shells and cool summer weather. As I was exploring the beach on that cool day, the wind kept getting whipped up around me and this cowl would have been perfect to keep the chills away as I searched for fossils.” Check out Ruth’s website at www.ruthhaydock.com

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hook to hook

Psst The pe fect acce o y fo  beachcoming! Clockwise from left: to get the starfish and shell motifs in the perfect positions, block the scarf before stitching them on; finish each end of the scarf with a row of long tassels in true boho style; Samantha recalled her childhood memories of beach days to design her fishnet scarf.

fishing net scarf Samantha Osmond’s light scarf with its beach motifs is inspired by breezy summer days and nights. Q DMC Natura Linen (58% linen, 26% viscose, 16% cotton, 50g/150m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Beige (03), Yarn B Orange (101) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A piece of sturdy card, 20cm (8in) wide

MEASUREMENTS Stars measure 4cm (1½in) diameter Shells measure 4x5cm (1½x2in) Scarf measures 200x12cm (78¾x4¾in), excluding tassels SCARF Using Yarn A, ch27. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. [26 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as a st), dc in each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as a st), *dc in next st, ch6, skip next 4 sts; rep from * to last st, dc in last st, turn. [5 ch-6 loops and 6 dc] Row 4 *Ch5 (counts as tr and ch2), dc in 60 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

next ch-6 sp, *ch6, dc in next ch-6 sp; rep from * to last dc, ch2, tr in last dc, turn. [4 ch-6 loops, 2 ch-2 loops and 2 tr] Row 5 Ch1 (does not count as a st), dc in first st, *ch6, dc in next ch-6 sp; rep from * to last ch-5 sp, ch6, dc in third of beg ch-5, turn. [5 ch-6 loops and 6 dc] Row 6-193 Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until Scarf measures approximately 190cm. Row 194 Ch1 (does not count as a st), *dc in next st, now work in the sts of ch-6 loop as follow: (dc2tog, dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog); rep from * to last dc, dc in last st, turn. [26 sts] Row 195 Ch1 (does not count as a st), dc in each st to end. Fasten off. STARFISH (MAKE 12) Using Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as a st), 10dc into loop, ss to top of first dc to join. [10 sts] Round 2 *Ch5, working into ch5 dc in second ch from hook, htr in each of next 2 sts, tr in last st, skip next dc from Round 1, ss in next dc; rep from * 4 times more. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

SHELL (MAKE 6) Using Yarn B, ch6. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. [5 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as a st), dc in each st to end, turn. Row 3 (WS) Ch8, working into ch8 tr in third ch from hook, tr in next ch, htr in each of next 2 ch, dc in each of next 2 ch, ss in next st of the previous row, *ch1 (not counted as a st), dc in bl in each of 6 sts just worked, turn, ch2 (not counted as a st), tr in bl in each of next 2 sts, htr in bl in each of next 2 sts, dc in bl in each of next 2 sts, ss in next st of Row 2; rep from * twice more. Fasten off, leaving a long end for sewing. TO FINISH To get the full effect of the fishing net design, it is recommended to wet block the Scarf before stitching the Shell and Starfish motifs onto it. Use a spray bottle to wet the Scarf until it is damp and carefully pin it to a blocking mat or towel, opening up the net design. Leave to dry thoroughly for 24 hours. Once dry, position the motifs, using the photo as a guide and sew in place. You will need to position six Starfish


hook to hook

Clockwise from top left: Ruth designed her cowl, featuring trebles and chains, around the theme of fossil-hunting on the south coast of England; wear the cowl with anything – it will look fabulous with tees, tops or blouses; worked in stripes, the colours set each othe off beautifully.

and three Shells, working from one end of the Scarf. The design is laid out with a repeated pattern of (Starfish, Shell, Starfish) and working in a zigzag pattern. With the remaining motifs, the design should be mirrored, working from the opposite end of the Scarf. FRINGE TASSELS (MAKE 50) Using Yarn A, wrap yarn around the card. Carefully cut along one edge to create strands measuring approximately 40cm (16in) in length. You will need 104 strands. Use 2 strands to create each fringe tassel. Add the fringing to each end of your scarf by folding both strands in half and pulling them partway through the stitches closest to the edge to create a loop (pull the strand from the WS to RS), thread the opposite ends of the strand through the loop and pull them tightly to secure the fringe tassel.

fossil & sand cowl Hook this airy cowl for a stunning look on the beach this summer. By Ruth Haydock. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Q DMC Natura Linen (58% linen, 26% viscose,

16% cotton, 50g/150m),1 ball of each: Yarn A Beige (03), Yarn B Orange (101) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook

TENSION 19 sts and 8 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over pattern using a 3mm hook 3 pattern repeats measure 12cm (4¾in) using a 3mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Finished Cowl measures 110cm (43in) circumference x 12cm (4¾in) tall

NOTES To make a deeper scarf, repeat Rounds 2 and 3 as required. SAMPLE PATTERN TO CHECK TENSION Using any colour, ch21. Row 1 (RS) (2tr, ch1, 3tr) into fourth ch from hook, *ch4, skip next 8 ch, (3tr, ch1, 3tr) in next ch; rep from * once more, turn. Row 2 Ss in each of next 3 tr and ss into first ch-sp, (ch3, 2tr, ch1, 3tr) into same ch-sp, *ch4, skip ch-4 sp, (3tr, ch1, 3tr) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * once more.

Repeat Row 2, another 6 times. Fasten off. COWL Using Yarn B, ch252, ss into first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in same st at base of beg ch-3, *ch4, skip next 8 ch, (3tr, ch1, 3tr) in next ch; rep from * 26 times more, ch4, skip last 8 ch, (3tr, ch1) in same st as beg ch-3, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. [28 ch-4 sps and 28 groups of (3tr, ch1, 3tr)] Round 2 Join Yarn A with a ss to any ch-1 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in same ch-1 sp, *ch4, skip next ch-4 sp, (3tr, ch1, 3tr) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 26 times more, ch4, skip last ch-4, (3tr, ch1) in same ch-1 sp as beg ch-3, ss to top of beg ch-3, fasten off. Round 3 Join Yarn B with a ss to any ch-1 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in same ch-sp, *ch4, skip next ch-4, (3tr, ch1, 3tr) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 26 times more, ch4, skip last ch-4, (3tr, ch1) in same ch-1 sp as beg ch-3, ss to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 four times more. Weave in ends. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 61


You’re a star!

Make Kate Alinari’s cheerful, celestial hug of a cushion for a fun and quirky addition to a child’s bedroom.


star cushion EASY PEASY SUPER CHUNKY

8MM HOOK

We’re all loving this cute cushion with its crossed eyes and cheeky grin. Worked in double crochet throughout, it’s a quick project to make to brighten up a child’s bedroom or toddler’s playroom.

NOTES YOU WILL NEED Schachenmayr Bravo Big (100% acrylic, 200g/120m), 2 balls of Gold (00122) Q Small amounts of acrylic DK yarn in red and white Q An 8mm (US L/11) hook Q Toy stuffing For yarn stockists contact Schachenmayr www.schachenmayr.com Q

TENSION Rounds 1-4 measure 10cm (4in) in diameter

MEASUREMENTS Approx 50cm (19½in) in diameter

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

The points of the star are worked in the round, just like the centres are, one by one. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

The Star is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch, unless stated. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. The Star is made up of a Back and Front Centre. The five points are crocheted individually onto the Star, working into the stitches of both the Back and Front Star Centres. Eyes are made separately and sewn onto the Star. STAR CENTRE (MAKE 2) Using Gold, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the ring. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 3 *Dc in next st, 2dc next st; repeat from * around. [18 dc] Round 4 *Dc in next 2 sts, 2dc next st; repeat from * around. [24 dc] Round 5 *Dc in next st, 2dc next st, dc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around. [30 dc] Round 6 *Dc in next 4 sts, 2dc next st; repeat from * around. [36 dc] Round 7 *Dc in next 5 sts, 2dc next st; repeat from * around. [42 dc] Round 8 *Dc in next 3 sts, 2dc next st, dc in next 3 sts; repeat from * around. [48 dc] Round 9 *Dc in next 7 sts, 2dc next st; repeat from * around. [54 dc] Round 10 *Dc in next 4 sts, 2dc next st, dc in next 4 sts; repeat from * around, ss in next st, fasten off. [60 dc] FIRST POINT Round 1 (RS) With RS facing and leaving a long tail, join Gold in first st of last round of the first Star Centre, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first 12 sts, take the second Star Centre and with RS facing dc in first 12 sts, leave remaining sts on both Star Centres unworked. [24 dc] Rounds 2-3 Working on the sts of Round 1, dc in each at around. [24 dc] Round 4 *Dc2tog, dc in next 10 sts; repeat from * around. [22 sts] Round 5 *Dc2tog, dc in next 9 sts; repeat from * around. [20 sts] Round 6 *Dc2tog, dc in next 8 sts; repeat

from * around. [18 sts] Round 7 *Dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts; repeat from * around. [16 sts] Round 8 *Dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts; repeat from * around. [14 sts] Round 9 *Dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts; repeat from * around. [12 sts] Round 10 *Dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts; repeat from * around. [10 sts] Round 11 *Dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts; repeat from * around. Ss to next st to join. [8 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through front loops of all sts in round, tighten to close and weave in the end. SECOND AND SUBSEQUENT POINTS Before completing the Final Point, stuff the Star firmly, then stuff the Final Point as you work. Round 1 (RS) With RS facing and leaving a long tail, join Gold in next unworked st of last round of the first Star Centre, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in next 12 sts, take the second Star Centre and with RS facing mark the 12th unworked st, dc in marked st and each of next 11 sts, working back towards previous Point. [24 dc] Round 2-11 Repeat Rounds 2-11 of First Point. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through front loops of all sts in round, tighten to close and weave in the end. TO MAKE UP Weave each of the beginning tails for each Point into the space between Points to close any gaps. EYES (MAKE 2) With 4 strands of DK white held together, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st) 6dc into the ring. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Ss to next st, fasten off and weave in ends. With 2 strands of Black and using a tapestry needle, embroider an ‘X’ on each Eye using the image as a guide. Sew the Eyes onto the Star, between Rounds 3 and 6, separated by 2 sts. TO FINISH With 2 strands of Red and a tapestry needle, using the image as a guide, embroider the mouth between Rounds 5 and 6, approximately 5 sts long.

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CROCHET COLOUR CLASS

NEW!

Moody blue

IMPRO YOUR SKIVE LLS

ue and learn how to use r in every iss it. By K u o l o c a ate B r e v o runi c s i ng. D

hUe, shaDe, tone and Tint ‘Hue’ means a colour, and ‘shade’, ‘tone’ and ‘tint’ apply to variations on that colour, adding black, grey or white to achieve specific effects. This info will help you find the right colours and make decisions on choosing colours for projects.

Shade Adding black to the original hue will give a rich, intense appearance.

Tone

Tint

Add grey to the original hue for subtle, sophisticated results.

Adding white to the original hue will make a softer, pastel palette.

Made in association with Yarn and Colors. For stockist information see www.yarnandcolors.com


The colour

lue

he satin bowerbird has a cunning plan to attract females, one that has proven irresistible. He adorns his bower with an array of blues, using everyday detritus such as old pens, bottle tops and clothes pegs to create a dazzling home. I suspect I’m part bowerbird. I love the thrill of finding a piece of cobalt sea glass, harvesting blueberries and finding the perfect sky blue yarn. I’m not alone in this, as blue has been consistently voted as the world’s most popular colour. So it’s surprising that western culture didn’t fully embrace blue until the Middle Ages. Where the Egyptians were hip to it and the Celts ran wild with it, the difficulty (and expense) of reproducing blue limited its use. According to Kassia St Clair in her book, The Secret Lives of Colour, this changed during the 12th century when methods for producing woad improved, resulting in a rich and stable

T

Kate Br uning aka @greed yforcolou r

COLOUR THEORY Analogous colours like le and green sit side-by-side on the colour wheel; complementary colours sit opposite A triadic sc e ces together three evenly-spaced colours from around the colour wheel. In this case, navy blue is teamed with pops of contrasting pink and yellow as accent colours. These colours prevent the palette from becoming too cold. For an alternative colourway, analogous colours sit either side on the colour wheel, creating a harmonious palette. Why not try Pacific Blue combined with Clematis and Turquoise?

Blue is a colour found in many forms in nature, like blueberries, which get their pigment from anthocyanin.

TRIADIC COLOURS PINK + YELLOW dye. At a time when strict laws governed what colours could be worn (purple was forbidden for peasants, for example), blue slipped through the cracks and was accessible to all and sundry. COLOUR FACTS: BLUE Crayola has undertaken two polls to determine the most popular colour in their range. Blue won hands-down both times. The first synthetic pigment was made by the Egyptians. They melted quartz sand, lime copper and an alkali, then ground the resulting glass into powder. When indigo became popular in the 15th century, it was prohibited in both Germany and France to protect the woad industry. 17th-century Dutch artist Johannes Vermeer used ultramarine in Girl with a Pearl Earring. The pigment was made from ground lapis lazuli and was more precious than gold.

lue Navy bite a re and wfhect d uo. a pe r

MORE COLOUR SCHEMES TO TRY Kate’s wrap is worked in shades of blue, pink and yellow but you can create an entirely different style by changing the yarn colours. Here are some colour maths to tempt you...

+

Coral

+

Pacific Blue +

Blue Lake

Earth and water

=

Sea and sky

Green Ice +

Nordic Blue

=

Petrol Blue

Get more inspiration from the Yarn and Colors range at www.yarnandcolors.com

Pops of pinks and yellows are a dramatic contrast to the richness of deep blue.

Clockwise from left: Tu rq uoise , Navy Bl ue and Sapphire.


Midnight bright Explore the colour blue with Kate Bruning’s gorgeous wrap.


h xagon wrap EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

4MM 5MM

Kate has chosen triadic shades to mix with blue in her wrap, which she’s made of hexagon-shaped motifs joined together. Triadic shades are trios of colour that are equidistant on the colour wheel – the hot pink and bright yellow really pop against the depth of the rich blue.

YOU WILL NEED Yarn and Colors Must-Have (100% cotton, 50g/125m), 15 balls Petrol Blue (069), 2 balls of each: Cotton Candy (037), Golden Glow (011) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook For yarn stockists contact Yarn and Colors www.yarnandcolors.com LoveCrochet www.lovecrochet.com Q

MEASUREMENTS Each hexagon measures approx 12cm (4¾in) wide

ABBREVIATIONS Puff st (Yrh, insert hook through st, yrh, bring hook back through) 4 times, yrh, draw through all 9 loops For a full list, see page 92

SIMPLY MUST-HAVE YARNS! All the projects in our new Crochet Colour Class series are made using the Yarn and Colors Must-Have range, one of eight ranges the brand now carries. (We love the matching 10g Must-Have minis!) Owner Koen says, “With lots of love and care we have created a colour range of 100 different shades, forming the foundation of Yarn and Colors. All our ranges are based on this colour palette, creating an assortment where not only colours can easily be combined but the different yarns can be effortlessly mixed, too.”

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NOTES The puff stitch corner is made by making a puff st, ch1, puff st. This will always be worked into the ch1-sp from the puff stitch corner of the previous round. The first Hexagon is made with Round 6a, and all other Hexagons are made with Round 6b and are joined as you go. Use the image to construct the Wrap. HEXAGON (MAKE 105) Round 1 Using a 5mm hook, ch4, ss to beginning of ch4 to make a ring. Round 2 Working in the ch4 loop, ch2 (counts as dc, ch1), tr, (dc, ch1, tr) 5 times, ss to join to starting ch2. [12 sts] Round 3 *(Puff st, ch1, puff st) in ch1-sp, dc in space between tr and dc; repeat from * five more times, ss to first puff st to join. [6 puff st corner, 6 dc] Round 4 Ch1, ss into first ch1-sp, *(puff st, ch1, puff st) into ch1-sp, dc into puff st, tr into next st, dc into puff st; repeat from * 5 more times, ss back into the top of the first puff st. [6 puff st corners, 12 dc, 6tr] Round 5 Ch1, ss into the first ch1-sp, *(puff st, ch1, puff st) in ch1-sp, dc in puff st, tr in next dc st, dc in tr st, tr in dc st, dc in puff st; repeat from * 5 more times, ss back into the top of the first puff st. [6 puff st corners, 18dc, 12tr]

FIRST HEXAGON Change to 4mm hook. Round 6a Ch1, ss into first ch1-sp, *(ss, ch5, ss) in ch1-sp, ch4 sk3, ss into dc st, ch3, ss into same dc st, ch4, sk3; repeat from * 5 more times, ss back into the first ch1-sp. [6 ch5-sp, 6 ch3-sp, 12 ch4] Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join the motifs as you go along – that way there’s no stitching together to do at the end.

SECOND AND SUBSEQUENT HEXAGONS This round will join each Hexagon to the Wrap. Place Hexagons RS facing up. When working on a Hexagon that joins to two connecting points on the Wrap, insert the hook through both of the connecting chains. Round 6b Ss into the next corner, ch2, remove the loop from the hook being careful not to lose the loop, insert the hook through the ch5-sp on the Wrap where the Hexagon will join, place the loop back on the hook, draw the loop through the ch5-sp, ch3, ss back into same ch1-sp, ch 4, sk3, ss into dc st, ch1, remove loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch3-sp on the wrap, place the loop back on the hook, draw the loop through the ch3-sp, ch2, ss back into the same dc st, ch4, sk3 sts, ss into next corner. Once all connecting points have been worked continue around the rest of the Hexagon using the pattern from Round 6a. Fasten off and weave in ends.


mb ish an outfit

On the edge

Trim hems of jeans and trousers with a row of geometric edging, designed by Eleonora Tully.

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mb ish an outfit EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED DROPS Safran (100% cotton, 50g/160m), 1 ball of each: Medium Grey (07) Dark Heather (15) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk Q

TENSION 23 sts and 6 rows to measure 10x3cm (4x1¼in) using a 3mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Each Trim measures 39x5cm (15½x2in)

ABBREVIATIONS Crab st Working from left to right, insert hook into next st to the right, yrh and pull though loop, yrh, pull through two loops on the hook For a full list, see page 92

These edgings are worked using the tapestry crochet method, which gives a sturdy fabric – perfect for matching with denim. The shells at the bottom create a pretty effect against the straight edge of the leg hem. If you’ve been dying to try the Tunisian crochet technique, here’s the perfect chance to practise on a small, manageable project. (Great if your jeans are just that little bit too short, too!)

NOTES The Trims are worked in rows of half trebles using tapestry crochet. On the Chart each square represents 1 htr stitch. Read all RS rows from right to left, and WS rows from left to right. When changing colour mid-row, twist the ends of the two colours together. Pick up the new colour in the last yrh of the previous stitch. Carry the unused strands of yarn across the top of your stitches. The trim is edged with three layers. Each layer is worked into a loop of the stitch in Row 6. A shell edging is worked into the back loops, a picot edging is worked into the front loops and a crab stitch edging is worked into the horizontal bar at the front of the stitch.

Work crab stitch in the bottom row; behind it, double treble shells peek out to add a soft edge.

9dtr in back loop of next st, skip 3 sts, dc in back loop of next st, repeat from * 10 more times, fasten off. [11 shells] Row 8 (RS) With RS facing, pick up Dark Heather in front loop of first st, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *ch3, ss into 3rd ch from hook, dc in front loop of next st, repeat from * across, do not turn. Row 9 (RS) With RS facing, continue with Dark Heather in horizontal bar of first st, working from left to right, crab st in the horizontal bar of each st across to end, fasten off and weave in ends.

TRIM Using Medium Grey, ch91. Row 1 (RS) Htr in 3rd ch from hook, htr in each ch across, turn, do not fasten off. [90 htr] Row 2 Join Dark Heather in first st, ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr in each st across following chart for colour changes, turn. Rows 3-6 Ch2, htr in each st across, following chart for colour changes, turn. Row 7 (RS) With Medium Grey, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *skip 3 sts,

6 5 4 3 2 1 30

25

Key Medium Grey Dark Heather

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20

15

10

5


illustration by Harriet de Winton of de Winton Paper co.

14-16 September 2018 The Green at Hampton Court Palace

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Sierra summer Create diamond motifs for a blanket inspired by hot climates, perfect for al fresco evenings. By Heather Gibbs.


EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

With its striking geometric design and bold colours made in granny diamonds, Heather Gibbs’ blanket looks like a souvenir from a pueblo in a hot, dry land. Clint Eastwood never had it so good.

NOTES YOU WILL NEED Stylecraft Special DK (100% acrylic, 100g/295m), 2 balls of Yarn A White (1001) 3 balls of each: Yarn B Midnight (1011) Yarn C Tomato (1723) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Stitch marker (optional) For yarn stockists contact Stylecraft 01535 609798 www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk Q

MEASUREMENTS Each Diamond Motif measures 20cm (7žin) wide x 15cm (6in) high Finished Blanket measures 114x114cm (45x45in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

The ch3 at beginning of a round counts as a tr throughout. Work through back loops only. For both of the Half Motifs, it may help to place a stitch marker in the top of the beg ch-3 to help mark the top of the first st. When joining colours, keep RS facing. You will find the chart for this pattern on page 93. FULL DIAMOND MOTIFS (MAKE 49) Using Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr here and throughout), 3tr into the loop, ch3, (4tr into the loop, ch3) 3 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [16 sts and 4 ch-3 sps] Fasten off and weave in ends. Round 2 Join Yarn B with a ss to top of the st where you fastened off, ch3, tr in each of next 3 sts, *(tr, ch3, tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in each of next 4 sts, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next ch-3 sp**, tr in each of next 4 sts*; rep from * to * once, then rep from * to **, ss to top of beg ch-3. [32 sts and 4 ch-3 sps] Fasten off and weave in ends. Round 3 Count back 3 sts from where you fastened off (this is the tr after the last corner ch-3), join Yarn A with a ss to top of this st, ch3, tr in each of next 7 sts, *(tr, ch3,

tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in each of next 8 sts, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next ch-3 sp**, tr in each of next 8 sts*; rep from * to * once, then rep from * to **, ss to top of beg ch-3. [48 sts and 4 ch-3 sps] Fasten off and weave in ends. Round 4 Count back 3 sts from where you fastened off (this is the tr after the last corner ch-3), join Yarn B with a ss to top of this st, ch3, tr in each of next 11 sts, *(tr, ch3, tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in each of next 12 sts, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next ch-3 sp**, tr in each of next 12 sts*; rep from * to * once, then rep from * to **, ss to top of beg ch-3. [64 sts and 4 ch-3 sps] Fasten off and weave in ends. Round 5 Count back 3 sts from where you fastened off (this is the tr after the corner ch-3), join Yarn C with a ss to top of this st, ch3, tr in each of next 15 sts, *(tr, ch3, tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in each of next 16 sts, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in the next ch-3 sp**, tr in each of next 16 sts*; rep from * to * once, then rep from * to **, ss to top of beg ch-3. [80 sts and 4 ch-3 sps] Fasten off and weave in ends. SIDE DIAMOND HALF MOTIFS (MAKE 12) Using Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Row 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr here and throughout), 3tr into the loop, ch3, 4tr into the loop. [8 sts and 1 ch-3 sp] Fasten off and weave in ends. Row 2 Join Yarn B with a ss to top of beg ch-3 of Round 1, ch3, tr in same st at base

Stitch full and half diamond motifs into a square blanket.

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diamond b ank t of beg ch-3, tr in each of next 3 sts, (3tr, ch-3, 3tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in the next 3 sts, 2tr in last st. [16 sts and 1 ch-3 sp] Fasten off and weave in ends. Row 3 Join Yarn A with a ss to top of the beg ch-3 of Round 2, ch3, tr in same st at base of beg ch-3, tr in each of next 7 sts, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in each of next 7 sts, 2tr in last st. [24 sts and 1 ch-3 sp] Fasten off and weave in ends. Row 4 Join Yarn B to top of the beg ch-3 of Round 3, ch3, tr in same st at base of beg ch-3, tr in each of next 11 sts, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in each of next 11 sts, 2tr in last st. [32 sts and 1 ch-3 sp] Fasten off and weave in ends. Row 5 Join Yarn C with a ss to top of beg ch-3 of Round 4, ch3, tr in same st at base of beg ch-3, tr in each of next 15 sts, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in each of next 15 sts, 2tr in last st. [40 sts and 1 ch-3 sp] Fasten off and weave in ends. WIDE DIAMOND HALF MOTIFS (MAKE 10) Using Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Row 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr here and throughout), 3tr into the loop, ch3, 4tr into the loop. [8 sts and 1 ch-3 sp] Fasten off and weave in ends. Row 2 Join Yarn B with a ss to top of beg ch-3 of Round 1, ch3, 2tr in the same st at base of beg ch-3, tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in next st, (tr, ch3, tr) in next ch-3 sp, 2tr in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts, 3tr in last st. [16 sts and 1 ch-3 sp] Fasten off and weave in ends. Row 3 Join Yarn A with a ss to top of beg ch-3 of Round 2, ch3, 2tr in the same st at base of beg ch-3, tr in each of next 6 sts, 2tr in next st, (tr, ch3, tr) in next ch-3 sp, 2tr in next st, tr in each of next 6 sts, 3tr in last st. [24 sts and 1 ch-3 sp] Fasten off and weave in ends. Row 4 Join Yarn B with a ss to top of beg ch-3 of Round 3, ch3, 2tr in the same st at base of beg ch-3, tr in each of next 10 sts, 2tr in next st, (tr, ch3, tr) in next ch-3 sp, 2tr in next st, tr in each of next 10 sts, 3tr in last st. [32 sts and 1 ch-3 sp] Fasten off and weave in ends. Row 5 Join Yarn C with ss to top of beg ch-3 of Round 4, ch3, 2tr in the same st at base of beg ch-3, tr in each of next 14 sts, 2tr in next st, (tr, ch3, tr) in next ch-3 sp, 2tr in next st, tr in each of next 14 sts, 3tr in last st. [40 sts and 1 ch-3 sp] Fasten off and weave in ends. 74 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

TO MAKE UP Once all Diamond Motifs are completed, sew them together using Yarn C, working through the back loop only using the Chart as a guide. BORDER Round 1 (RS) Join Yarn C with a ss to any corner sp, ch1 (does not count as st) (dc, ch1, dc) in same corner sp, *ch1, sk 1 st, (dc in next st, ch1, sk 1 st) along edge to next corner sp**, (dc, ch1, dc) in next corner, rep from * 3 times more, ending last rep at **, ss to first dc to join. Rounds 2-8 Ss into next ch-1 corner sp, ch1 (does not count as st), *(dc, ch1, dc) into ch-1 corner sp, ch1, (sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch1), along edge to next corner sp; rep from * 3 times more, ss to first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Block the Blanket by gently immersing it in cold water. Do not soak it completely and do not wring it out. Lay out the damp Blanket on blocking mats and pin to measurements. Leave to dry completely for 24 hours, then unpin and your Blanket will be ready to use.

Work eight rounds of dc to get this deep border around the diamond motifs.


C

het

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YARN REVIEWS

d y e a y r d ns n U

arns to keep things p l and alpaca y ure an o o w l a d sim r u t a ple. Six n SHEEP SHAPE Ch6. ROUND 1 4tr in 4th ch from hook, tr in next ch, 4tr in next ch, (ch4, ss in last tr made), 5tr in same ch as last 4tr (place marker in 4th tr), working on underside of chains tr in next ch, 4tr in next ch (place marker in 2nd tr), ss in top of unworked 3ch to join, do not turn. ROUND 2 Ch3, 3tr in 3rd ch from hook, ss into next st of Round 1, extend loop on hook so it is approx the size of an ear, hold loop in place and sew a knot on back of work so loop stays in place. TO FINISH In each of the markers of Round 1, join yarn with ss, ch2 and fasten off. Weave in all ends. Sew a small bead in place for the eye.

Such a baa-rilliant motif!


Blacker Breeds Pure Shetland

Town End Alpacas Pure Natural Alpaca

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 100% wool BALL 50g/110m HOOK 4mm RRP £6.60

WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 100% alpaca BALL 50g/82m HOOK 3.5mm RRP £9

Made from the fleece of Shetland sheep, this yarn is a proper woolly treat. For a DK yarn, it’s got a fabulous level of chunkiness to it, with a slight halo that complements the six natural, heathered shades, which range from cream and grey to brown and black.

It creates a firm, durable fabric that is hard-wearing and doesn’t easily stretch out of shape. It handles well – for all its hardiness it feels soft on your fingers while it’s being worked. Hand wash this yarn at 40°. www.blackeryarns.co.uk 01566 777635

We all know that alpaca yarn is soft… but this yarn takes it to a new level. After hooking up even a small amount our hands felt soft, as if they’d just been moisturised. The twist is light and the yarn feels bouncy, and the crocheted fabric is even and fairly dense.

This lovely yarn is made from the fleece of UK-bred alpacas, which is spun and dyed in Britian. It comes in three natural blended shades: Ivory, Latte and Pewter, and is also available in DK and 4ply. Hand wash only. www.town-end-alpacas.co.uk 015395 68341

Bearhous Alpacas Pure Devon Alpaca

Daughter of a Shepherd Brume

WEIGHT 4ply CONTENT 100% alpaca BALL 50g/175m HOOK 3mm RRP £5.25

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 100% wool SKEIN 100g/233m HOOK 3.5-4.5mm RRP £20

If you’re a fan of fluffy yarn, but prefer natural to artificial fibres, then we’ve found the ideal yarn for you. As well as being 100% natural in colour and content, this yarn is unbelievably soft and feels virtually weightless. The yarn has a relaxed and springy twist that has a gentle

crimped look, which creates texture in the fabric and adds to the lofty, lightweight feel. It’s available in seven natural, undyed 4ply shades (and six DK ones), from Vanilla Ice to Ebony. Hand wash only. shop.bearhousealpacas.co.uk 01395 597693

Daughter of a Shepherd’s undyed Brume is a blend of three fleece fibres, all sourced, scoured and spun in the UK: 50% Hebridean, 25% Zwartbles and 25% Exmoor Blueface. This mix creates a dark brown/grey yarn with flecks of silver and white throughout.

The fabric it produces is flexible and bouncy. It retains that real-wool handle and halo, and has an overall softness… plus, it genuinely does still smell of the fields and flocks! Cool hand wash only and lay flat to dry naturally. www.daughterofashepherd.com

ManKnit Blue-mash Aran

Sheepfold Black Welsh Mountain

WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 100% wool BALL 100g/160m HOOK 5mm RRP £12.99

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 100% wool SKEIN 100g/200m HOOK 4mm RRP £11.50

Blue-Mash is a mash-up of Bluefaced Leicester and Masham sheep wool fibres. This blend is remarkably soft, and the yarn has a uniform twist in the spin that results in clear and even stitch definition. It has a slight halo to it, and creates a solid, but airy fabric Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

with just the right level of bounce and stretch, making it perfect for garments. The yarn is occasionally available in one-off shade lots with dyes made from plants, so keep an eye on the website for these gems. Hand wash only. www.manknit.co.uk

Black Welsh Mountain yarn is actually spun from a flock of sheep farmed in Cumbria. It is a coarse fibre that produces a dense, hard-wearing fabric, which makes the yarn brilliant for outer garments, or blankets and throws, that will keep biting winter winds out admirably.

This is a very good choice of yarn for felting – the result is a fabric with a robustness and durability that can be expected to last for generations. The natural colour is a deep, sumptuous browny-black shade. Hand wash only. www.sheepfold.co.uk WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 77


Show us yours Join our gang of Treble Makers and share your thoughts and makes with us, for a chance to be featured here, use our hashtag #Sctreblemaker

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FUNKY TRUNK W Jacqui Tyler

ER! WINN

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emailed us this pic of her completed elephant head from issue 69. She says, “My daughter absolutely loved the image I showed her in the magazine so I had to make it for her.” We think it’s ele-phantastic!

W

e’re loving the bright summery colours @rk_crochet chose to make Ilaria Caliri’s frilly shawl from issue 68. She’s very happy with it, and rightly so! If you fancy getting in on some ruffle action, issue 68 has frilly socks, a headband, necklace and more. Go to page 86 for a back issue.

HooKy HolIday

! ER N N WI

Cleo Burt must be proud as a peacock of the super job she made of this fancy fella from issue 69. She says, “I decided to crochet the gorgeous peacock while I was on holiday in Spain. This pattern was perfect, as I needed to crochet a bird of some sort for my GCSE art textiles folder. Here’s the finished product. I hope you like it!” Yes, we do indeed, Cleo. We also like the idea of a week or two crocheting in some Spanish sunshine.

We’ve been double tapping on Instagram and admiring your makes. Tag us @simplycrochetmag and use the hashtag #SCtreblemaker. IN THE HOOD @crankmama from the Scottish borders just got issue 67’s baby hoodie finished in time for Maisy before the snow came. She says it’s “my first ever crocheted jersey – rather proud of myself”. SIMPLY STYLISH @poppychains is rocking the ruffles look with the necklace she made from Sara Scales’ pattern in issue 68. We love the zingy colours she’s used – as she says: “decidedly daffodilly”. Fab! SQUARE MEAL @gemandtilda used Stylecraft Classique Cotton DK to hook up our rainbow table runner, designed by @crochetdeli for issue 68. Gorgeous colours and it’s all looking very neatly done…

THE LOWDOWN It’s simple to be in with a chance of winning one of three great hooky prizes next issue! Show us your Simply Crochet makes on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or via email or post by 17 May 2018. For all terms and conditions, and more information, visit www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/competitionrules

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PICK ‘N’ MIX Jakx Perks has finished her Pick ‘n’ Mix CAL blanket, designed by Lucy Croft, and what an amazing job she’s done! She says, “I had a fair bit of the yarn left over and wanted it to be big enough for my bed so added some extra panels on either side. I used a couple of other granny square patterns, and I also made some up as I went along. Been a long year but worth it!” Very impressive work, Jakx. If you want to get straight back on the wagon, turn to page 95 for our Hook ‘n’ Learn CAL.

! NER N I W

This month we asked you..

HELLO YELLOW!

Where do you keep your hooks?

Amy aka @ambitiousjam turned our Mr Blue from issue 68 into a sunny Mr Yellow. Nice idea – has anyone else changed up the colours? Mr Pink? Or Mr Stripy perhaps…?

@KendrasCrochet I lost one in my hair bun once. Tucked it in there to keep it safe and forgot. Went shopping and everything!

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p o h s k Wor u the we show yo Evey iue to make you’ll need technique home. gs fo you in th l fu ti u bea

Crochet braids DISCOVER A WORLD OF INTERWOVEN STRANDS. Braiding lengths of crochet is a fantastic way to introduce a fresh, textured element to your hooking. A braid is just a fancy way of interweaving different strands to make one larger length. Braids have huge creative potential and are a great way to create stylish scarves, trendy belts, sturdy straps, interesting edgings, and even interesting hairstyles for amigurumi toys. You can also translate braiding patterns into crochet cable patterns. While the finished braids can look impressively complex, they’re actually really easy (promise!). For any braid, you need at least three strands, but you can use as many as 12 strands. There are lots of different braiding patterns, but we’ll show you how to work three different

BraidEd beLt, p83

braids: a simple three-strand plait and two different five-strand braids. You can use your new braiding skills to make our colourful belt on page 83.

starting off Practise making a simple plait and learn the basic rules of braiding. The easiest way to start braiding is to make a simple three-strand plait following our instructions, which will also demonstrate the skills you need for every braid. Step 1 First you need the right number of strands, secured together at one end with a knot or a few stitches. A plait needs three strands and we made ours for a doll, so we used 24 lengths of brown yarn, which we knotted together at one end and divided into three equal strands. Now you need to assign a number or name to each strand – we

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Left

Right Centre

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labelled ours as ‘left’, ‘centre’ and ‘right’. Different braiding patterns use names or numbers or diagrams, so start by using names and then try other methods. Step 2 Take the ‘right’ strand and lift it over the ‘centre’ strand. Now you’ll need to reset the labels on your strands because the strand that was ‘right’ is now ‘centre’. Step 3 Next take the ‘left’ strand and lift it over the ‘centre’ strand. Then reset your strand labels again because the strand that was ‘left’ has become ‘centre’.

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Step 4 Repeat Steps 2-3 to continue the plait, resetting the labels on your strands after each move. Continue the plait to the end of your strands or to the length desired. Step 5 When you’re learning a new braiding pattern, it’s best to work it fairly loosely. Once you’re confident with the pattern, you can pull the strands more tightly together to achieve a neater look, such as with this plait. Once your braid is finished, secure the strands at the end by sewing them together or by tying a length of yarn around the end.

05


Psst

Th e  e’s no po  ible end of brai combinat ding io n !

Simple five-strand braid Try this elegantly interlocking braid – it’s simpler than it looks! Once you can work a simple three-strand plait, you’ll be able to make any braid. It’s best to start off by adding one or two more strands and trying easy patterns that use a simple system of explanation. We’ve got the perfect five-strand braid pattern below for you to try next. Step 1 For this braid, you need five strands. For our example, we used five rows of double crochet worked in DK yarn, sewn together at one end. We made one strand in a different colour and positioned this at the centre of the five strands. Label the strands

as outer left, inner left, centre, inner right, outer right. Step 2 To start the braiding pattern, lift the centre strand out of the way. Step 3 Now swap the outer left and outer right strands, keeping the outer right strand on top. Step 4 Then you can place the centre strand back down. Step 5 Next, swap the inner left and inner right strands, keeping the inner left strand on top. Now you can tighten up the strands of the braid, if desired.

Step 6 Reset the labels on your strands and repeat the braiding pattern from Steps 2 to 5. Keep repeating the pattern, tightening up as you go, to create a stylish interlocking braid. When finished, sew the ends together to secure them in place. Step 7 If you’d like, you can make this braid using three colours instead of two – we used this for our belt pattern on page 83. The finished braid is also reversible. For this result, match pairs of colours as ‘inner’ and ‘outer’ pairs; that is, have a pair of one colour as the ‘inner’ and the other pair as ‘outer’.

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hop

Works

Intricate five-strand braid It’s surprisingly easy to create this complex-looking braid.

Written by Becky Skuse

Now you’ll be ready to tackle a slightly more complicated braid, but don’t worry – we’ll make it really easy! This one also uses five strands, but the strands are interwoven in a different way. Give it a try and you’ll see how simple it really is. Step 1 For this braid, you will need five equal-sized strands – we’ve made the strands in different colours to help you keep track of the braiding pattern. Secure the strands together at the top. Step 2 Start by taking the fourth strand (red in our example) in your right hand and lift it over the centre strand (burgundy). Keep the red strand in your right hand for the next step. Step 3 Take the second strand (light pink) in your left hand and swap it with the strand in your right hand (red), keeping the second strand (light pink) on top. Keep the red strand in your left hand for the next step.

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Step 4 Take the strand in your left hand (red) and lift it over the first strand (green). Now you can put this strand down. You’ll see that the red strand (which was originally the fourth strand) has travelled to the left, working its way over, under and over three other strands. Step 5 The final step in this braiding pattern is to take the strand that was originally in the centre (the burgundy strand, which is now the fourth strand) and lift it over the fifth strand (beige). Now you can tighten up the strands of the braid so they sit more neatly together. Step 6 Now reset the numbered labels on your strands and repeat the braiding pattern from Steps 2 to 5. This time you’ll start with the beige strand, which is the new fourth strand. Keep repeating the pattern, tightening up the strands as desired, to create a colourful finished braid. When you’re finished, sew the ends together to secure.

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Top tip for perfect braids When you start braiding, it’s important to use equal-sized strands until you’ve learned the knack. Then, when you’re ready to tackle some more complex braiding patterns, you might need to use different sizes of strand (such as a larger central strand) or strands

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that are much wider than their depth (such as wide strips of fabric). There are plenty of braiding patterns available online, plus YouTube videos to show you how to do different techniques, so give some of them a try and see what you can create!


Chain reaction Use your new braiding skills to give an outfit a stylish finish with this plaited belt by Becky Skuse.

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braid d b t EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED King Cole Giza 4ply (100% cotton, 50g/158m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Rosehip (2197), Yarn B Amber (2200), Yarn C Brown (2205) Q A 3mm hook Q Two D-rings (45mm tall, 26mm wide) For yarn stockists, contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com Q

MEASUREMENTS Our Belt measures 135cm (1½yd) long, 3.5cm (1¼in) wide, but you can adjust the length of the belt to suit

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

Designer Becky Skuse says: “Add a touch of style to any outfit with this colourful belt, which uses a simple braiding pattern. The colourful interlocking strands weave in and out of each other in a wonderful dance of colour. You can use any colours you like in any 4ply cotton yarn, so be inspired by your wardrobe and choose your favourite shades. Once it’s finished, you can wear the belt on either side, giving you an alternative look depending on your mood.” CROCHET LENGTHS Using Yarn A and leaving a long starting tail, make one row of treble crochet to measure 135cm long using one of the following methods: Method 1 Foundation chain: Starting with a loose knot, make a chain length approx 150cm long, ch3, tr in 4th ch from hook and in each ch until row measures 135cm. Unpick the starting knot to undo any extra chains not needed. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing up. Method 2 Foundation row: Ch3, yrh, insert hook in first ch, yrh, pull through first loop only (this forms base of 2nd treble), yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through 2 loops (treble stitch formed), *yrh, insert hook in base of previous stitch, yrh, pull through first loop only, yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through 2 loops; repeat from * until your row measures 135cm. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing up. Using the same method you chose, make four more rows of treble crochet to measure 165cm long – you will need two in Yarn B and two in Yarn C. TO SEW UP Arrange the starting ends of the treble rows in the following order: Yarn C, B, A, B, C. Sew each row to the next row for approx 10 stitches. Align the two D-rings together and insert the sewn-up crochet end into both D-rings. Fold it over the straight edge of the D-rings and sew in place. BRAIDING Start working the braid from the D-rings end. Label the five strands as outer left, inner left, centre, inner right, outer right. *Lift the centre strand. Swap the outer left and outer right strands, keeping the outer right strand on top. Place the centre strand

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In this braiding pattern, the centre strand will always remain centred down the middle.

Secure the D-rings firmly at one end of the braid by sewing them securely in place. back down. Swap the inner left and inner right strands, keeping the inner left strand on top. Tighten up the strands of the braid, if desired. Reset the labels on your strands and repeat the braiding pattern from * to the end of the strands. Sew the ends of the strands together to secure them firmly in place. WEARING THE BELT To secure the belt, insert the loose end into both D-rings. Fold the belt back on itself, take the end over the first D-ring and under the second D-ring. Pull tight.


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Crochet essentials Over the next few pages, you’ll ind simple step-by-step guides to many useful stitches and techniques that you’ll use every time you pick up a hook. HOLDING THE HOOK

HOLDING THE YARN

Try these methods and see which works best.

Even tension results in even stitches.

PENCIL METHOD Hold the hook like a pencil, in your right hand (if you’re right-handed), about 3-5cm from the hooked end. If your hook has a flat area, you’ll find it comfortable to hold it here.

KNIFE METHOD Hold the hook between your thumb and forefinger, about 3-5cm from the hooked end, resting the end of the hook against your palm. This will give you lots of control.

METHOD ONE Pass the ball end of the yarn between the little finger and third fingers of your left hand (if you are right-handed), then behind the third and middle fingers, over your index finger.

METHOD TWO Loop the ball end of the yarn loosely around the little finger of your left hand, then take it over the third finger, behind the middle finger and over your index finger.

3 Catch the ball end of the yarn with the hook and pull it back through the centre of the loop, taking the yarn through with it.

4 Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot, then pull just the ball end to tighten the loop so it’s close to the hook, but not touching it.

MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook.

1 Hold the tail of the ball of yarn in your left hand and drape the yarn clockwise over the top of it to form a circular loop.

2 Hold the loop between left thumb and forefinger, then insert the crochet hook through the centre of the loop from front to back.

CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain.

How to count chains

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1 Hold the hook in your right hand, and both the yarn end and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anticlockwise.

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2 Pull the hook towards the slipknot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pulling it through the slipknot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a chain length.

3 This is what your row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your left hand near the hook, to keep the tension. Keep going until you have the number of chains that’s stated in your pattern.

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Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Never count your first slipknot or the loop on the hook (called the working loop). So that you can be accurate, make sure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.

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1


SLIP STITCH (ss)

WORKING IN ROWS

This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds.

Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric.

1 The slip stitch is used to join a length of chain into the round. Insert the hook from front to back into the first chain you worked. Wrap yarn round the hook (yrh) in an anticlockwise direction.

2 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch (as shown) and then the loop already on the hook to make a slip stitch. You can also work this stitch into each stitch along a row to form a neat edging.

1 The first row is made by working across the foundation chain from right to left. At the end of the chain or row, turn the work so that the yarn is behind the hook.

2 For the next row, first make the turning chain for the stitch you’re about to work (see opposite). Now work the next stitch into the top of the stitches on your first row, missing the first stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric.

1 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row.

2 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving you two loops on your crochet hook.

4 Yarn round hook again, then pull the yarn through both loops. There’s your double crochet made and you’ll have one loop left on the hook, ready to do the next stitch.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet.

1 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).

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2 Insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yarn around the hook again (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (3 loops on hook).

4 Yarn round hook again, pull the yarn through all 3 loops. You’ve made a half treble crochet. Continue working htr into next and following sts to the end of the row.


YOUR GUIDE TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch.

1 To work a treble crochet, start by winding yrh and then insert the hook under the top two loops of the stitch on the previous row.

2 Wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh) and pull the yarn through the stitch only.

DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr) US term: treble crochet This is a stitch regularly used as an elongated version of the treble (described above). It’s worked in a very similar way to the treble, as follows: 1 Make a foundation chain. Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the hook under the top loop of the next ch. 2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the ch loop only (4 loops on hook). 3 Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).

Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook). 4 Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. Repeat from * to make more dtr sts. 5 To make the next row of dtr, turn work and ch4. This turning chain counts as the first dtr in a new row. Skip first st at the base of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the top two loops of the 2nd stitch in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

TURNING CHAIN (t-ch) For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain.

3 You will now have 3 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through just the first 2 loops on the hook.

4 You will now have 2 loops on the hook. Yrh again and draw the yarn through the remaining loops on the hook. Your treble crochet is complete.

TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr) US term: double treble crochet This is one of the longest standard crochet stitches and is mainly used in fancy stitch patterns. It’s taller than a double treble crochet stitch (described left) and is worked in a very similar way, as follows: 1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook under top loop of next ch. 2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop only (5 loops on hook). 3 † Yrh, draw loop through 2

loops only. Repeat from † 3 times more and your triple treble will be finished. Repeat from * to make more ttr sts. 4 To make the next row, turn work and ch5. This turning chain counts as the first triple treble in a new row. Skip first st at base of the t-ch. Work 1 triple treble, inserting hook under the top 2 loops of the 2nd st in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

How to count stitches Check your work is correct.

In crochet, you need to add turning chains (t-chs) to the beginning of rows. The reason for this is to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you’re crocheting. Each basic stitch has its own number of chains. The

table below tells you how many t-ch sts form the first stitch. *For dc, usually the turning chain does not count as a stitch, and the first stitch of the row is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.

STITCH

Add to foundation chain before starting row

Skip at start of foundation row (counts as first st)

For turning chain (counts as first st)

Double crochet

1 ch

1 ch*

1 ch*

Half treble

1 ch

2 ch

2 ch

Treble

2 ch

3 ch

3 ch

Double treble

3 ch

4 ch

4 ch

Triple treble

4 ch

5 ch

5 ch

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Being able to count your stitches is very important and helps you to ensure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row. To count short stitches such as double crochet, look at the plaited tops (see above right). For taller stitches, count the upright ‘stems’ – each ‘stem’ is counted as a stitch (see right).

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HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR

INCREASING AND DECREASING

Create stripes and other colour effects.

Shaping stitches are vital for making garments.

1 Before you work the final yrh (yarn round hook) on the last stitch of a row in the old colour, drop the old yarn and then pick up the new one with your hook.

2 Pull through a loop of the new yarn to finish the old stitch. The working loop will be in the new colour. Continue, keeping the old yarn at the wrong side.

INCREASE To increase one stitch is very simple – work one stitch into the next stitch on the row below. When you’ve finished, work another stitch into the same stitch.

DECREASE For a quick decrease, just skip one stitch. For a neater look, work the first part of one stitch and then begin the next stitch. Finish both together.

SEWING SEAMS You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods.

1 Sewing with a tapestry needle is the regular and neat way to join seams. Place two pieces of crochet right sides together and oversew them as shown above, using a tapestry or yarn needle.

2 To slip stitch a seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together. *Insert hook into both edge stitches, yrh and pull through to complete 1 slip stitch; rep from * working into the next edge stitches, keeping work fairly loose.

How to check your tension Make and measure a swatch to check your tension. Most crochet patterns state the tension required, in rows and stitches of a specific type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square and check that your tension matches. Place a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins, 10cm apart. Then place the ruler along a column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm apart. Count the stitches and rows between the pins – if you have less than the pattern, your tension is too loose so you need to use a smaller hook, but if you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s usually better to match the stitches than rows, because you can always work more or fewer rows.

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3 For a dc seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam. Work as for slip stitch seam, using double crochet instead of slip stitch.

4 A useful variation on the dc seam, the dc and chain seam is used when less bulk and/or greater flexibility is needed. Work 1 double crochet and 1 chain alternately.


YOUR GUIDE FOUNDATION RING

WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING

Create a foundation ring for working in the round.

To make circles, tubes and other shapes.

1 Make a chain the length stated in the pattern instructions. Next, insert the crochet hook into the first chain. Close the ring with a slip stitch, working yrh…

2 …and pull yarn through 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start crocheting in the round, following the instructions given right.

1 Make a foundation ring and work the t-ch (3ch for treble sts). Work a treble st as usual, but insert hook into centre of ring. For treble sts, yrh, insert hook into ring.

2 Finish the treble as usual (yrh, pull yarn through ring, yrh, pull yarn through first 2 loops, yrh, pull yarn through 2 loops). Work more sts into the ring as needed.

3 Make a t-ch for the sts you want to work (above, we made 1 t-ch for dc). Work your sts into the Magic Loop, over both the loop and the tail end (so two yarn strands).

4 Once you’ve worked the first round of stitches, simply pull the tail end of yarn to draw up the ring. Work a slip stitch to join the last and first sts to finish the first round (as instructed in the guide below).

MAGIC LOOP An alternative foundation ring for working in the round. Working yarn

Tail end

1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t make a slipknot. Instead, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long. Make sure the tail end is under the working yarn.

2 Now insert your hook into the loop, from front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through the loop.

JOINING ROUNDS Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch.

Rounds or spirals

1 To close a round of stitches, work a slip stitch into the top of the turning chain. To do this, insert the hook into the top stitch of the turning chain.

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2 Then place the yarn round the hook. Pull the yarn through the turning chain stitch and through the original stitch on your hook.

3 You’ve slip stitched the round together! Before working another round, be sure to make the required turning chain. Always work rounds on the right side, unless you pattern instructs you otherwise.

Some patterns are worked in rounds that are joined together at the end of each round (see left). Other patterns are worked in a spiral so you don’t need to join the rounds at the end, just keep going, working into the next stitch on the previous row. Amigurumi toys are often worked in a spiral like this.

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©Stephanie Lau, www.allaboutami.com

Check which technique you need to use.


Abbreviations across approx beg bl BPtr

ch(s) ch-sp(s) chcl(s) 2-tr cl

cont dc dc2tog

dec dtr dtr2tog fdc ftr fl foll/folls FPtr

to end of the row approximate(ly) beginning insert hook under back loop only Back Post treble: yrh, starting from the back, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st in row below, complete as treble st chain/chain stitch(es) chain space(s) refers to ch made previously, eg. ch-3 clusters (yrh, insert hook in sp/ st, yrh & pull up loop, yrh & draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting hook in same sp/st, yrh & draw through all loops on hook continue double crochet (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw a loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook decrease double treble crochet work 2dtr together foundation dc foundation tr insert hook under front loop only following/follows Front Post treble: work in opposite way to BPtr

Crochet hook conversions htr htr2tog in next inc LH lp(s) meas patt(s) pm prev qtr rem rep RH rnd(s) RS sk sp(s) ss st(s) tbl t-ch(s) tog tr tr2tog

ttr WS yrh *

()

half treble work 2htr together sts to be worked into the same stitch increase left hand loop(s) measures pattern(s) place marker previous quadruple treble remain(s)/remaining repeat right hand round(s) right side skip space(s) slip stitch stitch(es) through back loop turning chain(s) together treble crochet (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, yrh and draw through all loops on hook triple treble crochet wrong side yarn round hook work instructions immediately foll *, then rep as many more times as directed work all instructions in the brackets as many times as directed

HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve finished crocheting, fasten the end off carefully. Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn about 15cm from the work. Pull it through the last loop on the hook and pull to close the loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the back of the work. Most crochet items don’t need a lot of blocking, but cotton lace work usually does. To do this, carefully pin out the item with rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally. 92 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

UK

METRIC

US

14

2mm

13

2.25mm

B/1

12

2.5mm

2.75mm

C/2

11

3mm

10

3.25mm

D/3

9

3.5mm

E/4

3.75mm

F/5

8

4mm

G/6

7

4.5mm

7

6

5mm

H/8

5

5.5mm

I/9

4

6mm

J/10

3

6.5mm

K/10½

2

7mm

0

8mm

L/11

00

9mm

M/13

000

10mm

N/15

Which hook do I use? Hook size

UK yarn weight

2.5-3.5mm hook

4ply yarn

3.5-4.5mm hook

double knitting yarn

5-6mm hook

aran yarn

7mm and bigger

chunky yarn

UK/US conversions UK

US

chain

ch

chain

ch

slip stitch

ss

slip stitch

ss

double crochet

dc

single crochet

sc

half treble

htr

half double

hdc

treble

tr

double

dc

double treble

dtr

treble

tr

triple treble

ttr

double treble

dtr


CHARTS

Charts & Diagrams Here is the chart you’ll need to make the diamond blanket in this issue.

Diamond blanket, page 72

Key

Full diamond motif

Side diamond half motif

Wide diamond half motif

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eastern-inspired colourful makes

amigurumi toft terrier hanging garden self-striping baby jumper

crochet lace masterclass intarsia wave cushion pompoms And more‌

Lovely lacy motif top

ON SALE TUESDAY 12 JUNE * Contents subject to change


HOOK’N’LEARN

GreAt fors! BegInNer

s t e i k tc h i S Get

Lucy C g n i k o ho

roft’s fourth block for our beau tiful b la

n k et

.

Made in association with Scheepjes. For stockists visit www.scheepjes.com


HOOK ’N’ ARN hiiiiiiiij

STONE WASHED XL

HOW-TO VIDEOS

Learnthisstitchatyoutube.com/ user/simplycrochetmag

This version of the blanket is made in Scheepjes Stone Washed XL. The spike stitch square is the fourth stitch you’ll learn in our Simply Crochet Hook ‘n’ Learn. There are eight more stitches to learn, which we’ll take you through step-by-step, making this a perfect project for a beginner.

This is the fourth pattern in our gorgeous Hook ‘n’ Learn blanket crochet-along, which we’ll be running over the year. Perfect for beginners and fun for more experienced stitchers, you’ll learn how to do 12 attractive stitches, then we’ll show you how to put it all together in the last issue. Choose between the beautiful soft shades of Stone Washed XL, or the bright tones of Colour Crafter (or go mad and make both!). This issue, have a go at Lucy’s striking spike stitch. Please note: you’ll need to make two Spike blocks if you are making the Colour Crafter version.

SHOW US YOUR HOOK ’N’ LEARN! We want to see how you’re getting on! Join our group at www.facebook.com/ groups/hooknlearn and post your pics on Facebook and Instagram #SChooknlearn

96 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Stone washed xl Make one Spike Block Q Scheepjes Stone Washed XL (70% cotton, 30% acrylic, 50g/75m), 1 ball of each: Morganite (874), Tourmaline (876) Q A 5.5mm (US I/9) hook For yarn stockists for both versions visit Scheepjes at www.scheepjes.com/en

MEASUREMENTS Each Spike Block measures 20x20cm (8x8in)

MEASUREMENTS Each Spike block measures 16x16cm (6¼x6¼in)

TENSION 15 dc and 22 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over Spike stitch using a 4mm hook

ABBREVIATIONS Spike stitch Dc into the st in the indicated row directly below the next st For a full list, see page 92

TENSION

NOTES

12 sts and 18 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over spike stitch using a 5.5mm hook

All even rows are worked on the RS. The instructions for the Colour Crafter blanket are shown in brackets.

colour crafter

SPIKE BLOCK Using a 5.5mm (4mm: 4mm) hook and Morganite (Harlingen: Alphen), ch25. Row 1 (WS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [24 sts] Row 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st across, turn. Rows 3-5 Repeat Row 2, fasten off.

Make two Spike Blocks Q Scheepjes Colour Crafter (100% acrylic, 100g/300m), 1 ball of each: Block 1 Harlingen (1825), Kortrijk (2009), Block 2 Alphen (1722), Goes (1820) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook


hiiiiiiij

COLOUR CRAFTER

Top: the spike stitch square, worked in Stone Washed XL in Morganite and Tourmaline; Middle: worked in rich Colour Crafter Harlingen and Kortrijk; Bottom: worked in the cool shades of Colour Crafter Alphen and Goes; Right: Colour Crafter creates a distinctively bright blanket.

Row 6 (RS) Join Tourmaline (Kortrijk: Goes) in first st, ch1, dc in first st, *spike st 1 row below, spike st 2 rows below, spike st 3 rows below, spike st 4 rows below, dc in each of next 2 sts; repeat from * 3 times more omitting last dc, turn. [24 sts] Row 7 Repeat Row 2. Rows 2-7 sets pattern.

Rows 8-31 Repeat Rows 2-7 four times more, joining in the alternate colour at the beginning of every Row 6. Rows 32-36 Repeat Rows 2-6 once more. Fasten off and weave in ends.

4 3 2 1 Repeat

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Repeat

6 5

Key

BUY YOUR YARN HERE! You can buy special Hook ‘n’ Learn kits for both Scheepjes Stone Washed XL and Colour Crafter yarns from www.black sheepwools.com, www.deramores.com and www. woolwarehouse.co.uk. If you’ve missed the first three block patterns, keep an eye on our website (www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk). The first two blocks (Block and Waffle stitches) are available to download now, and the third block (Shell stitch) will be available soon.

Chain (ch) Double crochet (dc) Or

Spike stitch

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HOOKY TREASURE

Slow and steady

Eleonora Tully’s Seaside Stash Busting Blanket started with leftovers, but has grown into a worldwide community project. his blanket is a treasure in the making. In January I decided to crochet something with the DK yarns scattered around our home. But I had other projects and design commissions on the go and didn’t feel I could commit to a new blanket design. So, what if I crocheted only four rows per week? Then the blanket would grow without too much commitment. I put the idea out on my blog and Instagram and asked if anyone wanted to crochet along with me. I was completely overwhelmed by the response! I post the rows each week online – I’ve also set up a Facebook group – and I’ve lost count of how many people are joining in, from experienced crocheters to beginners, from over 20 countries. It’s so special because there’s a real sense of community as people share their progress and encourage each other, and new friendships have been made across the globe. I wanted a seaside theme, so I’m being very imaginative at linking all those colours back to the

T

98 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

coast. We have the obvious blues and greens for water and waves, and coral and beiges for shells, but we also have colours for ice cream, granny square blankets in beach huts, coastal flowers, fishing nets, sunsets and, of course, sand and pebbles too. I’ve also used coastal-inspired stitches, such as long wave stitch and shell stitch throughout the design as well as bobbles, basketweave and popcorns. It’s amazing for me to see my design being made in so many different colour combinations. It’s turning into a wonderful shared experience and even though it’s not yet finished I know I will always treasure it. I don’t even know what the finished blanket will look like, so to have people put their trust in me as a designer is very humbling. The project has allowed me to spread a little crochet joy, which is always my aim. You can follow Eleonora’s progress on Instagram at @coastalcrochet, at www.coastalcrochet.com, and join www.facebook.com/coastalcrochetdesign/


isSue sEventY Love is definitely in the air in this issue. There’s our wedding cool blue ideas which include place cards, favour bags, cake toppers and more. And keep up the celebrations with two types of bunting! There’s also a stripy chevron cardi, stylish sleeveless top and a super–colourful hat.

see our Back IssUe ProJects in DetAil on RavEl ry Http://bit.ly/ RavSiMplYc

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New colour series, office collection, a show-stopping elephant head and amigurumi peacock.

On-trend ruffle accessories, Hook ‘n’ Learn crochet-along, rainbow table set and fisherman’s sweater.

Midnight Garden home accessories, an adorable party shark, stripy blankets and super socks.

Apres-ski makes, stylish bobble hat, loopy trim coat, shooting star cushion and baby flat cap.

Home makes, cross stitch crochet, lacy cardi, bee blanket, evening bag and amigurumi lion.

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Luxury accessories, gorgeous designer gifts in alpaca yarn, Santa amigurumi, and sparkly sequins.

Lacy decorations, sweet amigurumi angel, fab bauble bunting and cheery Christmas jumpers.

Tartan and plaid collection, hooky Halloween treats, spooky accessories and crochet socks.

Pop art colourwork, waffle stitch makes, amigurumi sloth, cosy blanket, and a fringed ombré poncho.

Yarnbombing makes, easy-peasy jumper, pretty summer tops, amigurumi ladybird and a crochet teepee.

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Beach ideas, cute amigurumi donkey, vintage dungaree shorts and a filet crochet skull jumper.

Festival makes, a doughnut dress for kids, gradient yarn, summer amigurumi and filet crochet.

Bobble stitch makes, pineapple lace top, vintage jumper, rainbows and Tunisian crochet.

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King Cole Tufty Pattern 9096 Available in all good yarn retailers

T: 01756 703670, E: enquiries@kingcole.com, W: kingcole.com


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