Page 1

MENU THE DAILY POST FOOD AND DRINK GUIDE October 09

A ticket to dine

Behind the scenes at the Hard Day’s Night restaurant

Domestic bliss

Simon Rimmer solves your kitchen dilemmas

Perfectly preserved Nothing beats a home-made chutney


2

DAILY POST Tuesday, October 13, 2009

fresh

A taste of France THE Bible of French cooking, Je Sais Cuisiner (I Know How to Cook), has been published in Britain for the first time. Written by Ginette Mathiot, it contains 1,400 traditional French recipes from lobster bisque to tarte tatin and crepe suzette. It’s sold 6m copies in France, and hasn’t been out of print since 1932. The defiant title was Mathiot's response to the French notion that cuisine was the preserve of men. The English translation, I Know How To Cook, is being published this month by Phaidon.

try it . . . WHO needs to wait until Christmas to eat chocolates? It’s National Chocolate Week, Oct 1218, and fine chocolate maker Godiva suggests self-gifting with its new autumn collection. Marron Noir is chestnut cream with rum flavouring, in a shell of dark chocolate, and Noix Praline is walnut praline in a walnut-shaped milk chocolate. Godiva’s Autumn Collection ranges from £5.90 to £65. From John Lewis, Liverpool or via the website, www.godiva.com

food facts

food facts ANCIENT Greeks awarded celery to winners of sports events

DRINKING fresh milk in the classical world was considered a luxury, because milk was so difficult to preserve

Mum knows best ■ MOVE over Nigella, right – mum knows best when it comes to cooking, according to a survey. Almost half of 18-24 year-olds quizzed regard a family member as a bigger influence on what they cooked than Jamie Oliver or Gordon Ramsay. Only 2% of people quizzed said any celebrity chef inspired any of their dishes, as they stuck to family favourites instead.

CELEBRITY chef Richard Phillips will be championing British cuisine at the new restaurant in Chester he opens this month. The owner of Oddfellows, on Lower Bridge Street, has numerous appearances on Ready Steady Cook and Daily Cooks Challenge under his belt, but he’s not just a pretty face for TV. He gained a Michelin star during his first year in charge at Thackeray’s restaurant, in Kent, and still runs three ventures there. The restaurant has opened at street level at the 17th-century building, and is part of the thriving hotel of the same name. The revamped upstairs brasserie is also under his control. He’ll be hoping to repeat the success of Thackeray’s. “We will source the best local, seasonal produce for Oddfellows and show everybody how ‘great’ a British menu can be.” Meals cost from £26-£40.

FANCY learning to cook from BIBLE 18-80, and sprinkled THE of French with Michelin-starred a Thai banquet? cooking, Je Sais culinary magic. A new weekend and Cuisiner (I knowThey how can to sign uphas forbeen an evening, a evening cookery school cook), full day or in a weekend. launches later this published Britain for Themes will include basic month, offering master the first time. A-Z cookery classes in restaurant Written by techniques, Ginette vegetarian, Thai, Indian, quality food. Mathiot it contains Northern Greats French and The Can Cook Studio, 1,400 traditional many more. based at the recipes from lobster “There’s nothing Matchworks, in Speke, bisque to tarte tatin like LFC star Jamie Carragher at this the North-West,” was launched in the and in crepe suzette. It’s says Canmillion Cook copies director spring with public sold six the launch of the Can Cook Robbie Davison. “I think funding to offer in France and hasn’t Studio, with Garston MP people who have since watched been out of print inspiration and basic Maria Eagle and resident Masterchef and Saturday lessons to encourage chef Tony Evans Kitchen are really young people and interested in doing it themselves” parents to cook for themselves and stay On Oct 21, it’s Indian dishes, Oct 28 Thai, healthy. Nov 10 is Italian. Prices start at £40 per Now the cookery school has been opened head. Go to www.cancook.org for details. to all individuals, couples, corporate groups

Dinner date Who would you invite to your dream dinner party? Kevin McCloud, right, Eddie Izzard,

Joanna Jones

Joanna Jones, 34, Investment Manager, Blankstone Sington Ltd, Liverpool David Attenborough, John Simpson, and Michelle Obama. What would you serve? Mezze, chicken wrapped in pancetta, with garlic crushed potatoes, roasted Mediterranean vegetables and fine beans. For

dessert, lemon cheesecake. Who would be your nightmare guest? Katie and Peter – too self-obsessed and argumentative! What would be the topic of conversation? Children, politics,

the economy, property, Family Guy and, of course, the meaning of life. Who would do the washing up? My husband would load the dishwasher, because he's particular about it!


3

DAILY POST Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Chef’s Table

He’s got a ticket to dine William Leece discovers the thinking behind dining out Beatlesstyle in Liverpool

Y

OU can hardly escape from The Beatles at the Hard Day’s Night hotel, in North John Street. Not, of course, that many guests would want to. They’re everywhere, a subtle part of the background rather than completely in your face, but there all the same. Most of the connections are pretty obvious, but the title of the hotel’s restaurant, Blakes, may have some diners scratching their heads. It’s actually named after the artist Peter Blake, whose album sleeve for Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band is one of the defining images of The Beatles’ later period. Look for fish and finger pie on the menu and you’re likely to be disappointed, though. Head chef Andrew Scott has gone for a seasonal menu with a homely feel to it – “the kind of food I’d like to go out and eat myself,” he explains. That means main courses ranging from beer battered haddock with rustic chips, mushy peas and tartare sauce to butternut squash, blue cheese and spinach risotto and desserts from ginger pudding with toffee sauce to poached pears with ice cream. Midlander Andrew was at the same school in Stratford-on-Avon as Gordon Ramsay, and trained at the highly-regarded South Warwickshire in the town. It was his appetite for designer football gear that first got him into catering, he recalls. “I was a football trendie, but my mum wouldn’t pay £25 a time for Tshirts, so I had to find a job to fund my trendiness.” That was in a little tea shop in the town at the age of 13 on days off school, helping with anything from sandwiches to battered fish and fresh flapjacks and scones from the bakery. He was able to combine that with a second job at a more up-market restaurant, serving the non-stop trade in one of the busiest tourist towns in the whole country. Even with the growing realisation that The Beatles are there to be capitalised on in Liverpool, there is little to compare with the wall-towall Shakespeare in Stratford. “It meant I got used to volume and numbers from the off, really,” he says. From the two establishments in Stratford, it was off to college and

Head chef of the Hard Day's Night Hotel, Andrew Scott, left, with his team Graeme Murtin and Karlie McKenna

Squash, cheese & spinach risotto PREPARATION time 30 mins; cooking time 20 mins (serves four). Ingredients 250g Arborio rice 1 med butternut squash 1 med cooking onion 100g any full flavour blue cheese 50g parmesan 1 ltr vegetable stock 100g washed baby spinach. Method 1. Cut the squash into quarters, remove pips, oil and season,

cook in an oven (180C) for 30 minutes, and then allow time to cool. 2. Finely dice onion; heat a medium-sized saucepan and add diced onion, cook until transparent (about 2-3 mins); be careful not to brown. 3. Add arborio rice and stir well (about 1 min). 4. Add the stock little by little, allowing the rice to absorb the liquor (this will take about 15 mins). When cooked, the rice will just crush between finger tips. 5. Mix two quarters of the butternut squash (discarding

the big wide world: “I found from the off I clocked with all the lecturers. I was fascinated, for example, with all the things you could do with spun sugar. “You’ve got water and this grainy white stuff, which you can turn into such amazing garnishes for cakes and sugar work, for example.” He spent a number of years working for the Forte Group before joining Cafe Rouge in the 1990s as

skin) into the risotto, along with the blue cheese, stir well and then cook for a further two to three minutes. You may need to add a little water to loosen risotto, and then season to taste. 6. Separate the remaining two quarters of butternut squash from skin and dice into thumbnail-size pieces. Add to risotto with spinach, being careful not to crush the butternut squash, adjust seasoning. 7. Serve into four large bowls and grate parmesan on top of the risotto.

an area chef, implementing menu changes across the chain. But, with a move towards central buying, he felt the need to get his knowledge back, to use his own phrase. He went into agency work with a high spot being a spell at the luxury Rhinefield House in the New Forest, plus last year a spell at the Hard Day’s Night which went well. “Then, in March this year, I got a call saying would I be interested in

coming back as head chef,” he says. “I just about bit their hand off.” The long-term aim is to match the menus to the seasons, but it’s a process that will take several months. To keep the pressure off, the menu when Andrew moved in was run for four months. The existing autumn menu has been in place for a fortnight now and, with a few January tweaks, will run to the end of March.

It’s the kind of food I’d like to go out and eat myself

Picture: JASON ROBERTS/ jr091009chef-5

“It’s designed around local suppliers who in their turn use local farmers,” he explains. “I do all the buying and seek out all the suppliers. It’s all GM-free and locally sourced: our butcher gets all his meat from Cheshire farms and from the Conwy Valley, the fish is from Fleetwood and the vegetables are mainly from the Ormskirk area.” There’s a brigade of 11 chefs and six kitchen porters spread across the four kitchens at the Hard Day’s Night. Hours are long and gruelling – it goes with the territory in the catering business – but despite the strains the language is restrained. Although Andrew and Gordon Ramsay were at the same school, they were not contemporaries, with one arriving as the other left. But they have friends in common, and, according to Andrew, the real Ramsay is a bit less of a firebrand than the television performer. “I know a few guys who were in his class, and he’s not bad at all. It’s all flamboyance for the telly.” The teams at Hard Day’s Night work well together, with a shared aim. “It’s to look out there and see happy people. “We can’t please everyone, all the time, but we do our very best.” williamleece@liverpool.com


DAILY POST Tuesday, October 13, 2009

4

Chutneys like mum u Warming and wonderful

T

HE spices in this chutney make it lovely and warm with a sort of Mexican feel to it. Try it in quesadillas made with Stilton, fresh pears and rocket. Fantastic. SPICED TOMATO CHUTNEY (Recipe from Women’s Institute Book of Preserves) Ingredients (Makes: 2 x 500 ml (18 fl oz) jars) 2 kg (4 lb 8 oz) ripe plum tomatoes 4 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tsp brown or black mustard seeds 2 tsp onion seeds 2 tsp fennel seeds 2 tsp cumin seeds 2 tsp coriander seeds 4 dried red Kashmiri chillies 1 onion, roughly chopped 300 g (10 oz) golden caster sugar 1 litre (1¾ pints) distilled white vinegar salt to taste Preparation & cooking time: 2 hours Method: 1. Quarter and core the tomatoes.

2. Heat the oil in a large pan and add seeds and whole chillies. Cook until the seeds start popping. 3. Add the onion, sugar, vinegar and tomatoes. Bring slowly to the boil. Cook for and hour, then pick out tomato skins with tongs. 4. Continue to cook for a further 30 minutes. Check if the chutney is ready by dragging a channel through the mixture (with a wooden spoon) so that the bottom of the pan is visible. If the channel fills immediately with liquid, the chutney is not yet ready. Cook for a further 10 minutes and check again. The chutney is ready when the channel does not fill and the mixture is very thick. Add salt, to taste. 5. Store for at least 2 months before eating. ■ FOR more recipes, go to www.thewi.org.uk and go to the WI Shop page.

There has been a massive growth in interest in home-made preserves. Emma Pinch samples some delicious recipes

P

ICKLING and preserving the last of the harvest, to see you through the rigours of winter, has been an age-old activity at this time of year. In the last couple of decades, making your own chutneys, jams and pickles fell out of fashion, and it was left to the stalwarts of the WI to keep the tradition going. But the new enthusiasm for all things homemade, traceable and cheap has seen a massive surge in those wanting to grow their own food and increasingly preserve it, too. Kitchenware specialist Lakeland has reported sales of the humble jam jar shot up 40% on last year – with a huge half a million of them sold. Preserves are traditionally ways of keeping fruit and vegetables – the sugar in jam and the vinegar in chutney and pickles prevent the vegetable decaying. With the last of the soft fruit made into jam, preserve enthusiasts like Barbara Bulmer are busy bottling chutneys. Barbara Bulmer, who, with her husband, co-owns Kenyon Hall Farm, in Croft, near Warrington, is preparing the first jars of her own recipe pumpkin and orange chutney, to sell in her farm shop and to enjoy herself. Last year it came second in the homemade category of the National Chutney Challenge. She started making chutney 30 years ago with green tomato chutney because she missed the taste of mother’s tangy home-made variety. Now she boils up preserves throughout the year as each fruit and vegetable comes into season, as the first of the pumpkins are now. “I’m a natural-born cook and the thought of seeing fruit or vegetables, even in hedgerows, not being used fills me with horror,” says Barbara. “That’s why I have to do something with them. “I find making chutney a great pleasure. I was told once my chutney was ‘better than Harrods’, and being complimented on them really does make my day. As a rule of thumb, chutneys are made from fresh or dried fruit, or fleshy vegetables (or a combination of both) cooked down with onions, sugar, vinegar and spices. After an hour on the rolling boil, it should have a jamlike consistency, but still with a bit of texture. Once bottled, it’s left for around three months to mature. Ginger is a must, preferably fresh. “And chilli or cayenne pepper,” adds

She boils up preserves as each fruit and vegetable comes into season

Barbara. “You need a bit of hotness, otherwise your chutney can be a little bland. Generally, I find shop chutneys too uniform and too vinegary.” The beauty of making your own is the freedom to experiment with different flavours. Be warned, no two batches will ever taste the same. In 30 years of preserve-making, Barbara has perfected cucumber or marrow with apple, beetroot with lemon and what she calls Boxing Day chutney, to go with left-over Christmas meats. It blends pumpkin and onion and is given a seasonal twist with orange and lemon peel, cinnamon and cloves. Equipment-wise, you don’t need to buy any expensive new appliances. “You need a large saucepan with a heavy base – I use a catering pan with handles on either side – a wooden spoon, and a funnel is useful to pour the chutney into the jars can be useful,” says Barbara. “I reuse my jars and tend to buy new lids from somewhere like Lakeland. “Put your chutney away for three months and you’ve got a lovely, homemade present to give out at Christmas.” ■ PICK your own fruit and veg for home-preserving at Kenyon Hall Farm, Winwick Lane, Croft, Warrington. Go to www.kenyonhall.co.uk for details. emma.pinch@liverpool.com


5

DAILY POST Tuesday, October 13, 2009

used to make Barbara Bulmer making pumpkin chutney at Kenyon Hall Farm, Croft, Warrington

Cupboard love MURDER-MYSTERY fans will love the new mugs from Art Meets Matter. With eight different styles to choose from, including Cat Among The Pigeons, A Pocket Full Of Rye and Ordeal By Innocence, put the kettle on, pick up where you left off with Hercule and make a tea-time toast to the “Queen of Crime”. Priced £8.76, plus p&p, from Art Meets Matter, www. artmeetsmatter.com PERFECT your cooking skills with this new knife block from Raymond Blanc. We can't promise these are the same knives the maestro uses in his two-Michelin-star restaurant, La Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, but they could be the next best thing! Seven-piece Knife Block from Raymond Blanc, by Anolon, £120, stockists 01514 828 282 or www. meyergroup.co.uk

WAKE up your worktop with a psychedelic-style statement kettle. This 1970s-inspired print combines fashion with functionality, costing a lot less than a Pucci dress! Art Deco by Prestige Dome kettle, £59.99, stockists 01514 828 282 or www.prestige.co.uk

Picture: ANDREW TEEBAY/ at091009apumpkin-9

Christmas & New Year’s Eve BOOKINGS NOW NOW BOOKINGS BEING TAKEN TAKEN BEING

Method 1. Put all the ingredients except sugar into a large saucepan and gently cook until soft. 2. Stir in sugar and simmer in an open pan for one hour. Stir frequently until consistency is like that of jam. 3. Leave at least two weeks before eating. TIPS FOR STERILISING JAM JARS: ■ STERILISE jars by putting them on a baking tray and popping them into an oven heated to 82°C for 15 minutes. Or put a spot of water in the bottom of the jars and microwave the jar and water until it boils. ■ If you spoon or pour the chutney mixture into the jars when it is still very hot and screw on your metal, plastic-coated lids right away, a vacuum is created which also serves to prevent the chutney going mouldy.

any vocalist ALA of fantastic N CROSS Alan will trans port you

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK: 12 - LATE

to pre-revolu tion the Rat Pack performed in days in the famous Nacional Hot el

MENU Special Cub anita Seafo Sticky Ribs od Soup Sauted Mush Calamari rooms in G arlic & Crea m Sauce Traditional Sunday Ro ast – ch Beef/Lamb /Chicken/P oice of ork ★★★★★ Pan Fried A tlantic Salm on & Chilli Sals with Mango a Stuffed Bel l Peppers Cubanita’s famous Mo Chocolate Fa jito Cheesecake ntasia ★ ★★★★

Flan Cuban o

2 Campbell Square, Liverpool, L1 5AX 0151 709 5335 www.lacubanita.co.uk • Vibrant Atmosphere • Live Music • Great Latin Food • Salsa Bands Friday & Saturday night

John

Du

ke

Lewis

Pric e

t

rS

ve

no

Ha

St

TASTY TUESDAY-THURSDAY 3 course meal and bottle of house wine per couple Only £15.95 (£13.95 for 2 courses)

NDAY AFTER NO CABARET ON In the com p

Cuba where

450g (1lb) peeled and cubed pumpkin or squash 1 grated carrot 600ml (1 pint) pickling vinegar or malt vinegar grated rind and juice of half of an orange 2 tsp coriander 1 finely sliced onion 1 level tsp cayenne 45g (1lb) sugar

Special Mad Monday Price £16.95

HOME-MADE PUMPKIN AND ORANGE CHUTNEY Ingredients (makes about six half-pound jars)

MAD MONDAYS

Free bottle of house wine per person! with 2 course meal from our a la carte menu

Seasonal sensation

New for Octo Novembe ber and r O n ly ! SU

St

Ca mp bell

SPECIAL OFFERS FOR OCTOBER/NOVEMBER ONLY

Duke

Arg St

yle

St

St


DAILY POST Tuesday, October 13, 2009

6

Eating In

No more domestic disasters Simon Rimmer aims to boost the nation’s confidence in the kitchen. Andy Welch reports

S

I never get invited to dinner parties because no one wants to cook for a chef

IMON RIMMER is one of those TV chefs who has been around for years, consistently appearing on a host of TV shows but never really breaking through into the limelight. But now he’s finally got his own self-titled series, and he couldn’t be happier about it. Simon Rimmer’s Dinners sees the 46-year-old chef, from Wallasey, solve the culinary problems of different families and groups of friends. While he loved helping out, his reasons for enjoying the series so much are far less altruistic. “The best thing about it was having people cooking for me,” he says. “I never get invited to dinner parties, because no one wants to cook for a chef, but I had 10 people cook for me on this series. That’s more than have cooked for me in the last 10 years. “They were all nervous, but I’m actually a really easy dinner date. If someone else is cooking for me, I don’t care if it’s beans on toast or an elaborate gourmet meal, anything you put in front of me is brilliant.” Unlike some food shows that make you feel guilty if you don’t have time to prepare a fresh meal each day for your family, Simon’s series accepts that food, no matter how much we enjoy it, might not always be at the top of our list of priorities. “Most shows don’t allow for life getting in the way,” he says. “Hopefully the people I visited will come out of it the other side with changes for the better, and they’re all problems viewers can identify with. “The contributors fell into one of two camps really – they’d have a repertoire of five, six or 10 dishes that they’d cook really well, and they’d constantly fall back on those dishes. They just needed some inspiration to take it to the next level or to make things easier for themselves. The other group were people who had dietary requirements. “We had one little girl with coeliac disease (a reaction to gluten found in wheat) and her parents were finding it hard, as there’s an incredible number of things on the supermarket shelves with hidden wheat in. Soy sauce, for example, has wheat in but you’d never imagine it did.” As Simon discovers, the mum of that family was cooking three separate dishes each night: one for her and her husband, another for her son and another – wheat-free – meal, for her daughter. “This lady was spending her

Simon would love to cook for Kenny Dalglish and Cheryl Cole – although for very different reasons

Chef Simon Rimmer on the Good Food TV channel's Simon Rimmer's Dinners

Award-winning food ■ SIMON opened all-vegetarian restaurant Greens in Manchester in 1990. Two years later, it was described by The Guardian as one of the most exciting restaurants in the country, and has since gone on to win a host of awards. ■ He opened his second, Earle, entire day cooking, and while she liked it, it’s not what she intended her life to be, so I tried to find things that were kid and adultfriendly, and suitable for someone with coeliac, too, so no one felt like they were eating someone else’s food. “We did a chicken pie, but with mashed potato instead of pastry, and chocolate meringues for dessert, so no worries about gluten there. “In doing that, we reduced the lady’s cooking time by 75%, too, giving her back her evenings.” Another problem faced in the series came in the shape of three master builders who live together in a small Devon village, but arrive

in 2006. Again, another success with praise heaped upon it by the food press. ■ Despite being a Liverpool fan, Simon appeared on Mastermind in 2008, choosing Tranmere Rovers as his specialist subject. ■ He says his proudest moment came when he

bumped into Liverpool captain Steven Gerrard after a charity match at Anfield. “I had injured my ankle so couldn’t play, and afterwards Steven saw me on my crutches. He said ‘Simon, what have you done?’ I just couldn’t believe he even knew I existed, let alone knew my name.”

back from work after the local shop has shut. “They were driving 15 miles to the nearest supermarket all the time, so that was no good,” says father-of-two Simon. “I gave them store-cupboard recipes, like fishcakes that use tinned salmon, for example, or used more frozen stuff to make good dishes. “None of the dishes in the series take longer than 35 minutes either. If you’ve been working all day, you object to standing over a hot stove for two hours for something that is fundamentally just your tea. “I won’t spend longer than that cooking for myself and I’m a chef. “You want something that’ll go from raw to in your mouth in

about half an hour, and that’s a big premise of the show.” Simon has been on TV for several years now, having started out on now-defunct digital channel Granada Breeze. He’s also appeared on This Morning, CBBC’s Xchange, Gloria’s Open House, and Great British Menu and has been the resident chef on Something For The Weekend since it began in October, 2006. “We’re coming up to three years on air now, and we’ve been commissioned until 2011,” he says of the BBC Two show. “It’s a fantastic show to do, I’m so lucky,” he says. “I do think it’s the best job in telly. On a Sunday

morning I get to mess about, cook some nice food, speak to the fantastic guests we have and I get paid! What’s not to like?” Part of the weekly magazine show has Simon cooking a dish with one of the guests. Some are good, competent cooks and can follow instructions. Others aren’t quite so gifted in the kitchen, however. “I think Joe Swash, from EastEnders, is my favourite guest so far,” says Simon. “He’s barking mad, and has this idea he’s a good cook. He really isn’t.” So who would be his dream cooking partners? “I’d like to cook with Kenny Dalglish, because he’s my ultimate hero,” says Simon, a lifelong Liverpool fan. “I might not get much out of him but I’d be in awe of him. Equally, I’d like to cook for Cheryl Cole, but that’s probably for slightly different reasons. “I’ve got this vision of her just wearing an apron. I think I work on that level for dream cooking partners, football and girls. I can certainly think of worse ways to spend a Sunday morning.” ■ SIMON RIMMER'S Dinners is on Good Food on Mondays


7

DAILY POST Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Sommelier – Mathew Sloane

S

O, THERE you have it. Gone. Quicker than Michael Knight off on another lonely crusade, our petulant summer has finally stopped teasing us, put on its Burberry coat and flown the coop. Good riddance, I say! Summer is a difficult time for a gentleman – linen cannot be worn to every occasion and there is little more unsightly than a well-fed aristocrat breaking a sweat all over his Ede and Ravenscroft three-piece as he marches off to the local gamblery to place a few guineas on the old nags. Autumn, however, is a time for fond reflection, civilised tailoring and happy expectation for the forthcoming, winter revelry. This is also the time of year for enjoying excellent, British fare – grouse, venison, pigeon, pheasant – they’re all there, waiting for a smart bottle of liquid improvement. I have ploughed my weary way through wine after wine in my quest for the greatest wines in the universe. I have tried some seriously brilliant swag, wines that beg of a man to soar like a naughty eagle like Dionysus of old. I believe I may have recently discovered a bottle that could be powerful enough to end wars and to redefine the very notions of civilisation. Ladies and Gentleman, the wine is appropriately named Gravity, and you’d best be sitting down. The Winery of Good Hope is renowned for producing marvellous wine at different price brackets. The top brand from these charming chaps is Radford Dale. I’ve tried the range and have long been a fan of their excellent Merlot. The flagship wine, Gravity, takes the whole concept of the producer to alarmingly stunning levels.

A perfectly balanced blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a cheeky dash of Viognier creates an almost pornographic, cosmic melee that needs to be tried to be believed, it’s like being trapped inside a chocolate mousse with all of Girls Aloud . . . and Kylie. Winemaker, Edouard Labeye, deserves the South African equivalent of a knighthood for this stuff. It’s exceedingly limited, but, if you can track any down, get your hands on a case of the 2006 vintage, truly incredible. I’m going to pester Vinea on Albert Dock and Origin Wines to see if I can get enough in to see me through the winter. I plan on having it with roasted pheasant in a small, dark room, alone, with some Led Zeppelin. I shall finish on a less pleasant note but it may prove to save your life, certainly if you dine under my stewardship. Occasionally corks get a bit dry, they have still performed an excellent task but, upon their merciful release, have left a bit of dusty debris in your gargling soup. The wine isn’t corked, it’s fine. Pick the bits out, your waiter will mark you down as a dining legend. If a wine is actually corked, a fungus has had its wicked way with your hard-working bung and left the wine with a musty, acrid pong and the stuff should be rejected, immediately. Don’t worry, don’t be bashful, send it back. We want you to have a good time, and it means we get to pester our wine merchants about dodgy stock.

Best bar none

Ink, Seel Street, Liverpool IF YOU’RE one of those people who has a drink or 12 and then has the compulsion to have the initials of your favourite football club/child/Disney character inked across your arm, then look no further. Welcome to Ink, home of loud music, strong liquor, and tattoo designs hung across the walls. This rockiest of rock bars has opened on the former site of Barfly. It’s the little brother of live music venue The Masque. Bar stools have been replaced with working tattoo chairs, the walls are adorned with intriguing tattoo artistry, and even the

fixtures and fittings pulse with biker chic. It’s not the most romantic of destinations – unless your tastes run to more extreme expressions of undying love, as manifested by the leather masks over the door. The stage in the main room and dancefloor/mosh pit of the former venue have remained and already played host to Mercury Prize winner Speech Debelle. There’s also fitted leather sofas and booths in the main room. Chasers, shots and beers are the order of the day, and the fridges are stocked with plenty of foreign imports. Open from 5p-3am daily. ■ INK, Seel St, Liverpool. Tel: 0151 707 6171

OPEN ON CHRISTMAS DAY & BOXING DAY

BIGGEST BUFFET RANGE IN LIVERPOOL WITH OVER 90 DISHES

10% OFF FOR STUDENTS & OAPS

Bookings now being taken TREAT YOUR FAMILY ON SUNDAY £21 FOR 2 ADULTS AND 2 CHILDREN

FRESH SALMON IS SERVED EVERY FRIDAY AND SATURDAY

ALL YOU CAN EAT LUNCH BUFFET 11.30am-6.00pm

£5.95 Fri - Sat £6.50

Mon - Thurs

4 QUEENS SQ, LIVERPOOL, L1 1HF,

OPPOSITE MARRIOT HOTEL & QUEENS SQ BUS STOP

0151 709 2811

WWW.TSORESTAURANT.CO.UK

GRAND BUFFET 6.00pm - Midnight

£8.95 Fri - Sat £9.95

Mon - Thurs

ALL DAY SUNDAY

11.30am - Midnight

£6.75

KIDS EAT 1/2 PRICE BELOW 41/2 FT


8

DAILY POST Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Menu, Liverpool Daily Post food and drink guide, October 2009  

Menu, an eight-page food and drink guide from the Liverpool Daily Post

Read more
Read more
Similar to
Popular now
Just for you