A detailed collection of style
Editor’s letter Welcome to the first edition of Grad magazine. In this issue we explore a topic that is under constant discussion in our current society. The clear and strict lines surrounding gender go back to the time where women gathered berries and men went out to hunt. But forwarding to the modern times of 2015 women not only gather, they hunt and men not only hunt, they gather. And more importantly we can choose which role we would like to pursue. There is no final definition of what makes a man a man and what makes a woman a woman, as there should not be one. Grad magazine is not a manifesto of how the world should be, we merely give a view of the world as it is. Where gender lines still can define who we are, but also now more then ever, these lines can be broken and bend. As the world is still fighting for gay rights and Olympic champion and reality TV star Bruce Jenner is publicly transitioning into a woman, the discussion is not over yet. Only merely starting, with terms as being ‘genderqueer’, meaning ‘being genderless’, supporting this new turn. Even Facebook has altered their gender options to around fifty possibilities, which makes choosing even harder. Even Amsterdam, which can be seen as one of the most open-minded cities, has its struggles with acceptance. We spoke with photographer Jakub Oleskevic who urges you to think beyond the globally accepted perception of beauty. Even questioning the interpretation of gender, feeling it narrows your point of view. Or Rachel Green, a DJ who pushes the stereotypical boundaries of a masculine scene by simply not presenting herself as a ‘female DJ’. And Jazz Kuipers, an avant-garde menswear designer who advocates for more masculine men, by creating luxurious items which stimulate a bodybuilder type of feeling. Even looking back at those lively seventies, a time where Bert Zuiderveen rebelled against the boring men’s fashion with a minimalistic no nonsense approach. We take a closer look at the new ‘mansome’ and accept without shame that grooming has a beauty within. We conclude this issue with some rich sense of style, and a reminder to never underestimate the power of the suit. The male and female stereotype of prestige does not shy away of coyly flirting with gender lines. While making this isse we can honestly say that we have learned and grown, valuing every story and point of view. Binding these thoughts to create a diverse image of the world surrounding us, which we hope you will enjoy as much as we did.
Editor-in-chief Lisa Marie Sneijder
Art Direction Lisa Marie Sneijder
Contributing editor Anna Nijsters
Contributing writers Jarron Kamphorst Suzanne van Heerde
Contributing stylists Amy Kleingeld
Contributing photographers Esmay Wagemans Thomas Vørding Martijn Senders
Contributing illustrators Laura Romée Hersée
Special thanks Rachel Green Silke Hajunga Jazz Kuipers Bert Kwaasteniet Jakub Oleskevic Nikki de Vries Bert Zuiderveen Future Faces Model Management The staff of Julia’s Zuid The staff of Coffee Company
THIS ISSUE IS PRINTED IN MAY 2015 IN THE NETHERLANDS AS A GRADUATION PROJECT OF LISA MARIE SNEIJDER FOR THE AMSTERDAM FASHION INSTITUTE.
Table Frames of gender An illustration by
The warmth of the bass
of content 4 6
An interview with
The order of beauty
An interview with
#Free the nipple
The creation of men
An interview with
A strong suit
The Dutch rebel of the 70s
An interview with
Table of content | GRADmagazine
An illustration by
GRADmagazine | Frames of gender
For each issue Mykro magazine invites a different artist to illustrate the theme of that issue. The main reason is to emphasize that images are just as important as words to tell a complete story. Moreover we love collaborating and meeting inspiring people while making another issue of Mykro magazine, and we are eager to share this experience with you. For our first issue we teamed up with Laura Romée Hersée, an Amsterdam born illustrator and graphic designer. As a child she filled her days with illustrating her fascination of the world surrounding her. At this day nothing has really changed aside of her cum laude diploma in ArtDirection of the JUNIOR Academy in Amsterdam. Her creativity seems to never let her down, finding inspiration in every detail of life. Her passion brings her all over the world, always with a sketchbook in her hand. Her fondness of beauty and fashion perfectly translates into her illustrations showing that it only takes a single line to create timeless elegance. We asked Laura to illustrate the theme ‘gender’ for this issue. Giving her nothing more than this one word. She describes her illustration as a ‘gender free face’, abstracted of the detail that usually characterize an appearance. “I love to draw faces. To me it is the most fascinating part of a person. The base is always the same: two eyes, two ears, a nose and a mouth, but adding just a few simple details can make a face expressive, more feminine or masculine. So usually when I start I don’t know whether it is going to be a boy or a girl because in the end, a face is just a face. “
Frames of gender | GRADmagazine
An interview with
warmth of the bass
Rachella Groen or better known as Rachel Green is an Amsterdam based upcoming DJ specialised in bass genre. She has taken the Amsterdam music scene by storm, becoming a household name and has played at almost every club. This summer a long list of festivals can be added to her already busy schedule. She describes her sound as ‘heavy sounds and weird noises’. So on a sunny afternoon we sat down to find out where these weird noises come from and how it feels to work in a very masculine scene.
Lisa Marie Sneijder: Let’s start at the beginning, where does your
music I liked, because we would be driving for many hours at a time.
love of music come from?
At some point we ended up stuck between jobs and decided to go
Rachel Green: My love of music does not come from a specific place
out one night to X-Base club in Sydney. The DJ played some awesome
or time. I simply grew up with it. My mom had a wonderful habit.
hip-hop music that was similar to the music I had on my own cd’s. So
She always kept the music on when she left the house, so that there
I walked up to him offering some songs I had. But I guess he did not
would be music playing when we returned home. She preferred
understand a word of what I was saying, as he yelled to come back on
something bluesy like Nina Simone. That triggered me at a young
age to find out my own musical preferences. I always loved going to music stores or concerts and finding new music. I always wanted to surround myself with music.
So that Wednesday I went back, fully prepared to give him my cd’s, but instead he wanted to see my skills behind a deck. Somehow I
LMS: Maybe there was a specific moment when you decided to
managed to impress him with my style, since he offered me to join him
become a DJ?
that very same night in the club. That one night eventually turned
RG: Not really no, I started out at home with a few girlfriends. We
into four nights every week. I rapidly became a club household name
tried spinning the decks just for fun and played games. It was not
for some time. The fact that I am a woman supported my popularity
until I went to Australia that things changed.
even more. At the time it was very uncommon to see a female behind the decks, especially in hip-hop music. But I really learned how to
LMS: Yes! I have read that you took over by surprise some nights in
entertain a crowd and understand them music wise. I think that my
a club in Australia and everybody loved you. How did that happen?
success was based on these three factors, my understanding of the
RB: It was all one big coincidence actually. In 2009, I was travelling
crowd and their needs, my music choices and the fact there were so
with a friend in Australia and I had prepared some mix cd’s with
few women behind the decks at that time.
Text by LISA MARIE SNEIJDER
Photography by ESMAY WAGEMANS
An interview with
LMS: And then you came back to Amsterdam. How have
was more honoured that so many people voted for me,
completely focussed on my deck. I am not performing
you picked up the DJ work here?
because there were a lot of beautiful people on that list.
an act, I want my music to become one with the people.
RG: A few friends organised some parties at gay clubs
So a dark little club would be my favourite, but looking
and they thought it would be fun to let me play. Even
over a crowd of 6000 people throwing their hands into
though they were not very familiar with my style yet.
LMS: You’re also organising you own party ‘Bassed’.
the air all because of your track, is most definitely a
That turned out to be a success, so the ball started
How did this start?
goose bump moment. But I feel more of a connection
rolling from there.
RG: It started out of a joined frustration that the music
standing on their level and not behind a bunch of
scene in Amsterdam feels really restricted. In general,
bodyguards and on a high stage.
LMS: How would you explain your style? You have called
I would be booked for different events, each with a
it once: ‘heavy sounds and weird noises’. What does that
long list of guidelines to follow. But I would think, if
LMS: You played at Milkshake festival, a liberal dance
my music does not fit your concept, I am not suited for
festival that is strongly opposed to the narrowminded
RG: Well, exactly that! I love the rhythm of deep basses
idea of society surrounding gender and sexuality, do you
combined with unexpected sounds. The weird sounds
So with a few friends we decided to organise a low-
find it important to show support on such occasions?
can be anything. I like it when it is a bit odd or out
key music-event with cheap beer and with no pictures
RG: Not specifically, but I do really support Milkshake
of place, for example I am currently working on a new
taken. I also feel that the party scene nowadays is solely
festival. I think it is a very important initiative since a
track where we are including some Bollywood sounds,
focussed on finding a new profile picture for Facebook.
lot of awareness is still needed, but I am not adjusting
to give the track that extra layer. I find it very important
Our event ‘ Bassed’ gives people the opportunity to dance
my sound for it. But I will play with a little extra love.
that the bass goes very deep and triggers the whole
and sweat unrestrained and for DJ’s to experiment and
body. It is a feeling difficult to describe. It is a profound
play whatever they want.
LMS: Do you think you will always stay in the music
emotion that flows through your body. A sensual and
It is interesting to see that the women feel much more
warm feeling that has magnetic effects, it connects you
at ease, especially when I am behind the decks. The
RG: Yes absolutely! No doubt about it. My work as a
firmly with earth. It is that magnetic warmth which
area in front of the DJ booth becomes more accessible
production manager at 22 Tracks, which is an online
pulls me in every time.
music discovery service which is curated by local top DJs from Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris and London, proves now more than ever how important music is
“I am a DJ first and foremost and accidentally I happen to be female. I want to be booked because you love my music, not because of my gender.”
to me. I love coming to work and be surrounded by inspirational people and lots of music. LMS: Do you feel you will stay a DJ for the rest of your
life? RG: I would love to keep performing for a lot of years to come, but eventually the long nights will become a burden I think. So after that I would like to focus more
LMS: How does it feel to be a female DJ in such a male
This feeling of freedom was sensed at the famous dub
on producing and production. But I will never leave the
‘Oi’ parties around 2010 where nobody bothered about
RG:I have not experienced any problems yet, I’m not shy
their looks but just let their bodies bounce to the heavy
telling the others that I am a lesbian and suddenly I am
bass, bumping into each other right and left. And that
LMS: Last question! Does your stage name have
their buddy! That makes it a lot easier.
is what I want to achieve during my music evenings.
anything to do with ‘Rachel Green’ for the TV series
Besides, I am very aware of not profiling myself as a
‘female DJ’. I am a DJ first and foremost and accidentally
RG: This is a popular question! Yes it does. Back in the
I happen to be female. I want to be booked because you
LMS: I saw that you are fully booked all summer for
days when I started, I had written down many possible
love my music, not because of my gender.
all different kinds of festivals. What do you prefer as
names, but not one was standing out or was funny
enough. So the easiest thing would be to translate my
LMS: But you did win the Golden Gnome award for
RG: I prefer a place where I am very close to the crowd.
Dutch name into English. (Groen is Dutch for green) So
‘Most sexy DJ’, what do you think of that?
I want to feel the energy of the room and together
I did. And, I do admit, I like the Friends reference. I have
RG: Oh that was fun! Also it was the third time I was
with the crowd want to get lost into the music. I like to
always been a big fan of the TV series, I have all the
nominated. So maybe it was third time the charm? I
feel the connection because when I am spinning I am
seasons next to my bed.
Rachel photographed in the Sarphati park in Amsterdam next to her home
An interview with Jakub Oleskevic is a Lithuanian photographer of Polish descent, currently living in Amsterdam. In his work â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Hashtagâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (2014) he looks at the different ways we interpret the idea of beauty. He is fascinated how plastic surgery has altered the way we see our body. We no longer accept and love the way we look. We learn that everything can be modified to our ever-changing opinion. So, on a drowsy Thursday afternoon I picked his brain to find out what beauty truly means.
Text by LISA MARIE SNEIJDER
Image by JAKUB OLESKEVIC
“I see my work ‘Hashtag’ as a sinister kind of beauty. A beauty that is sugar coated with
that is wildly discussed in Lithuania; they would rather just avoid it all together. So
bright colours, but if you look closer it is a collection of cut up body parts. The dolls
eventually I learned that I should not be taken over by my insecurities, but better to
may be smiling, but the smile is obviously painted on. Which you could compare to
accept them as part of my personality and rather use them to improve myself. I think
all the nip and tucks that one might find necessary in order to find a reason to smile
anyone should try this. That is why my question remains, if I can come to terms with
again. For the background I used candy like pink and blue to underline the happy
who I am, how hard can it be to accept a slightly bigger nose or breasts that are not
feeling, contrasting the cruel image of the rows of body parts.
a cup D.”
People are always influenced by society but the question is always to what extent? Altering ones body is not bad to a certain degree, but plastic surgery feels too
“Being part of a minority group myself, I know how it feels to be insecure, therefore
fabricated and fake.”
I will never judge anyone on his insecurities. Embracing them will make you feel so much stronger. This is the reason why I never think in terms of gender when I meet
“There is nothing wrong with fake in terms for medical purposes but people changing
new people. I do not perceive people as a certain gender, back in Lithuania I was
the way they look seems not right to me. When true personal looks are altered, one
constantly put wrongly in a category that did not fit. Your gender is who you are as
becomes almost robotic. People let their insecurities take over instead of finding their
an individual. I have always felt as an outsider, even now living in Amsterdam. But it
keeps me open-minded and interested in different people.”
“Not that I have one conclusive definition of what beauty is, but beauty is based on
“I’m still trying to find a different reality, a
different visual features triggering my emotions and making me happy. So you can find beauty in anything. Even something that is perceived as ugly can be beautiful in its own way. For example, I may not like a specific shade of the colour orange, but I will
better and a more beautiful one. I’m trying
definitely find a shade I do like. So the colour orange becomes beautiful to me.”
to find it through my art.”
“Also the common idea of beauty is not realistic, as it seems to be a constant search for perfection. Nowadays, we are constantly looking for something that looks perfect, isn’t it? I must admit that I do, like with the apps in my phone, which I have colour-
“I’m convinced that my past is still influencing me and my work but in a positive way.
coordinated. That order makes it perfect for me. It is beautiful to me. I know this
Because I didn’t find my reality back home pretty or suiting, I’m still trying to find a
might come across as a little OCD, but even my belongings in my apartment are
different reality, a better and a more beautiful one. I’m trying to find it through my
colour-coordinated, that composition keeps me calm. Sometimes I tend to be a chaotic
art. That is why I prefer to work digitally. I often use a kaleidoscopic order that is
person, so a neat and calm room is necessary to be able to function properly every day.
symmetrical and consistent, combined with rich colours like a deep blue. For ‘Hashtag’
And yes, I am extremely sensitive to colours.”
I wanted to step outside my comfort zone and create the same kaleidoscopic order but without digitally manipulating the image and really trying to create a still life. The
“My need for order in my current life derives from my upbringing, as I come from a
beauty here for me can be found in the structure and symmetrical order.”
traditional and homophobic place where I have always felt that I didn’t fit in. Even my parents still have a hard time adjusting to the idea that I am gay. My dad would
“Let my advice be to never let others or society tell you who you are, nor let them
rather just not touch upon the topic. It is like a big homosexual elephant in the room.
criticize you because of your insecurities, but be happy with what you have and what
So during my childhood I did not look to fit or be like the other children. I realised at
you can offer, just the way you are. If you can do that, you are a real beauty. No surgery
an early age that I was not the same and did not want to be. Being gay is not a topic
Being Is a man a man when he goes out to hunt and bathes in hot springs high up a mountain? Will he be less of a man when sitting in a hot bath with scented oil reviving his skin with an earthly scrub? The answer is: no he will not. It is 2015 and men no longer shy away of a little grooming here and there. So, we have lined up our favourite products to try out immediately up a mountain or in your bathtub.
Photography by MARTIJN SENDERS
Concept by LISA MARIE SNEIJDER
Model BERT KWAASTENIET
Opposite page: Moroccan Tea Body Scrub by & OTHER STORIES - Charcoal & Black Sugar facial mask by FREEMAN - Face Scrub by CLINIQUE FOR MEN
This page: Oud Wood Shower Gel by TOM FORD
Opposite page: Sartorial Beard Oil by PENHALIGON
This page: Harwax by SHOWTIME - Matt Clay Wax by UPPERCUT DELUXE - Rework Putty by ANDRELON MEN
Back cover: Shaving crÃ¨me by TABAC
This page: Shaving Foam by GILLETTE - Hair gel by SEBASTIAN LIQUID STEEL
#FREE THE NIPPLE We live in a world where a character on your keyboard can start a revolution. That one character decides if your voice is heard on our world wide web. I must say I love using the hash tag to my benefit. Who would not like their opinions and pictures acknowledged from across the world? Twitter gives millions the freedom to speak as loudly as they can. In some cases a little turbulence would not have hurt. Maybe sometimes being more safe then sorry, might be a good way to go. But not in this case. Icelandic women have been lifting their shirts for a while now causing rebel hearted, free spirited nipples of women around the world to follow suit. No shame in their game, because why should there be? A nipple has been a nipple since the nipple was born. And more importantly it does not discriminate between male or female, looking exactly the same on each and every chest. Or other body part, as some people have a little extra. Still what caused Instagram’s strong censorship on female nipples? Banning uses and taking down posts in matter of hours. It is a full time job really, with more then 300 million users worldwide up to date. The argument issued out of the Instagram headquarters emphasizes a family friendly approach. Contradicting all age and all time favourite image website Tumblr,
Aside of these young eyes, why not leave a decision like exposing
who seems to be fine with a nipple here and there, basically
your breasts to the world see to the one owning them? There is no
cheering them on. The sexuality of a breast is a valid point, but it
reason society should make women doubt the way their bodies
is a very narrow minded idiot to not see the difference between a
look. Suddenly deleting a picture for no apparent reason except
loving mom breastfeeding her new born and a pornographic shot
‘you are female’ does not make a strong point. And is actually
of a couple double D’s bouncing up and down. Still what is so
very offensive. Even more so, paintings dating back hundreds of
wrong with confronting younger minds with a couple of breasts?
years did not have a problem with a few nipples, they celebrated
They have seen them from a very close angle their whole little
them. Honouring the beauty of women and their bodies.
lives. Even better, they have been one of the most important
So society, come on, let’s accept we all have them and always
reasons of their wellbeing. Nothing to be restrained from in my
will and get over the obsessive sheltering of the young eyes
wandering through the web. A little nudity never hurt anybody.
Text by LISA MARIE SNEIJDER Image courtsey of SEBASTIAN FAENA in “Plain White” for CR Fashion Book #5
#FREE THE NIPPLE | GRADmagazine
An interview with
Text by LISA MARIE SNEIJDER
Photography by ESMAY WAGEMANS
Jazz Kuipers is an Amsterdam based self-proclaimed avant-garde menswear designer. Only two years after graduating from the Amsterdam Fashion Institute her agenda is overloaded with projects. She presented her first collection in a showroom during the Paris Fashion Week last January, which was instantly sold to three stores in Milan, New York and Berlin. Together with another AMFI alumnus DesirĂŠe Brands she started her own creative foundation wanting to stimulate collaboration between different creative disciplines On the top floor of an artist community building located in the Transvaal district in Amsterdam, Jazz has her own atelier with rays of sunlight pouring through the windows and racks filled with big coats. We sat next to her sewing machines and discussed where all this creativity comes from.
An interview with
Lisa Marie Sneijder: Let’s start with a logical first
LMS: What about unisex clothing, could that become a big
to push my first collection through, but it was far from
question. When did you decide to become a fashion
hit in the future?
easy. Still I have learned a lot from that process and I
JK: I personally wear most of my collection. So it all
started to develop my own style. So the collection I am
Jazz Kuipers: That I remember very well! Before I went
depends on what you define as unisex: is it a woman
now working on is much more mature. My characters are
to AMFI I wanted to join the army. But a week before the
wearing men’s clothing? So that would define my clothing
not simple, for example he has a moustache or a beard,
military training would start, I decided that I really prefer
already as unisex. I do not think that there is something
but they are more intuitively created.
to make things with my hands. So in the end, the army has
like unisex clothing, the starting point is always male or
never seen me on any training. In my second year at AMFI
female. Fashion designing is always gender based. The
LMS: Why was it so hard to develop your last collection?
I was selected to join the Honours programme, which is an
only designer to try to nail down the unisex idea is Rad
JK: First of all, the collection is very complex in the
extra program during the summer for excellent students.
Hourani. He plays with the gender types and floats in an
materials, techniques and heaviness of fabrics. Also
We went to Paris for men’s fashion week and I visited
undefined grey middle. Still all his clothing has a very
the quality has to be of high standard, because the
the Boris Bidjan Saberi show. I was completely blown
loose fitting without accentuating any specific body types.
retail price is not very cheap. Besides, the first year of
away. I never thought fashion could be like this. That is
Eventually the only thing he does is making a man more
entrepreneurship is always very hard. You have to learn
the moment I realised I really wanted to be a menswear
female and a woman more male. I think that is the closest
everything at once and everything goes in very dramatic
you can get to unisex.
LMS: What did the presentation of Boris Bidjan Saberi
look like? What was so special about it? JK: The collection was presented in a very dark and avantgarde like setting. The models stormed onto the catwalk and everything had a sense of darkness surrounding the squared room. It had a post apocalyptic feeling to it, which was very fitting for the time. At AMFI black and darkness
“My new collection is based on the idea of a ‘sonic boom’. That is the sound associated with the shock waves created by an object traveling through the air faster than the speed of sound.”
is not always appreciated in my opinion, so for me this was very new. Eventually I have fought hard to maintain
LMS: Lets go back to where it all started. Did clothing
ups and downs. I am lucky to have a business partner who
my dark style at school, and ultimately I succeeded.
interest you as a child?
helps me out a lot, but I still manage to do a lot wrong
JK: Not really actually. I was more interested in making
simply because it is all very new to me.
LMS: So after the Honours project you decided to go for
things and had a rich fantasy. More specifically I was
building huts and making up stories. That is something I
LMS: Do you have a different view on male clothing as a
JK: Yes, right after that summer, I started to work
actually still do today, I always start with creating a story.
female designer? Is it maybe easier to release conventions?
for the AMFI brand Individuals, for one full semester.
For my collections I first draw up a story with different
JK: Yes, absolutely! As a woman I do appreciate a male
Together with classmate Lotte van Dijk we determined
characters and I create my clothes from there. You could
body. When you look at male designers who design
the direction of the brand and slightly pushed everyone
say that the hut stories I made up as a child, were a
menswear, like Rick Owens or Boris Bidjan Saberi, it is
towards our vision. The celebrated ‘Duals’ collection is the
precedent of my current designing stories..
all about comfort. The pieces are nice but very practical
result of our hard work, which I am still very proud of. It
and casual. I want to bring more shape into menswear. LMS: So what kind of characters and stories do you
Woman’s fashion is all about the hourglass figure and
up to date.
creating silhouettes and for men it is all about long baggy
For that collection I made some unisex pieces and added
JK: They are a representation of what I feel what strikes
formless sweats, unless you buy a suit. But not many
some unique pieces for men. That was the first time ever
me or what keeps me busy in a personal struggle . For
designers looks at the beautiful aspects of the male body
menswear was added to the collection. After I interned at
example, my new collection, that I just started designing,
and how to accentuate them.
Boris in my third year, I never designed for women again.
is based on the idea of a ‘sonic boom’. That is the sound
was one of the best selling collections of our school brand
associated with the shock waves created by an object
LMS: Aha, what are those beautiful aspects of the male
LMS: Do you think you will ever design for women again?
traveling through the air faster than the speed of sound.
body according to you ?
JK: Well, since my graduation I was lucky enough to team
Sonic booms generate enormous amounts of sound energy,
JK: I always look at the shoulders and the back of a man.
up with a business partner and he stimulates me to
sounding much like an explosion. So I started wondering
I find the front more difficult, especially in designing.
think about that possibility. If I want my business to grow,
about all different kind of barriers, suddenly deep-sea fish
I always make the waist smaller to the eye, so it will
women’s wear might be a necessity in the end. For now it
intrigued me because you cannot see them, you cannot
accentuate a bodybuilder kind of shape. I also use a lot of
is not my next step yet, and actually I would rather not do
shoulder pads to make the contrast even bigger, without
it. But businesswise it would be smart
I think this typical fascination started when I lived in
making it look 80’s. For a summer collection, this will be a
London for half a year. In this city of extremes, I managed
challenge because I cannot use that many shoulder pads.
22 GRADmagazine |
â&#x20AC;&#x153;I always start with creating a story. For my collections I first draw up a story with different characters and I create my clothes from there.â&#x20AC;?
An interview with
LMS: So for your summer collection are you going to use
contacts are so valuable to me. The only reason why I
LMS: I was not aware of the switch, why this change?
lighter colours and fabrics?
use my name for my collection is because every piece
JK: We wanted to change to a foundation because we
JK: Yes I am going to combine soft and strong fabrics. I
comes straight from my heart, so any other name would
did not want to become a corporate business. We want
have a solid fabric where we can build a construction
just not be fitting enough. But aside of that I do not
to make amazing art and bring people together that
with, which is not too hot. Still summer is not my
find it important to shout my name everywhere, I would
can help each other out. Cry Havoc should be a bridge
favourite season as a designer. But my strong suit is
rather exhibit my work.
between creativity and industry.
pattern. For my summer collection I want to focus on
LMS: And why did you specifically show in Paris?
LMS: How does fashion fit into such a project?
those lines to make it something different.
JK: Paris has the most opportunities. I thought
JK: Usually I invent the most insane projects and look
about the Netherlands, but it just does not have any
for artists who can help me with that. Aside of that I
LMS: You describe yourself as an avant-garde designer.
added value, especially because of the indifference to
do not have a very broad art knowledge, but I believe
What do you mean by that? What is avant-garde
menswear and to dark colours. Everything has to be
that collaboration is so empowering especially between
the lines in my designs, the seams that construct the
according to you?
bright and colourful, which I am definitely not showing
different disciplines. They make it possible for me to tell
JK: To me, avant-garde means to abandon clichés and to
in my collections. I do feel that Dutch men are ready for
my story even better. I am having fun designing clothes,
open new horizons. In designing menswear it means to
this new style, but the press has not picked up on it yet.
but they will impress more when they are presented on
let go of traditional designs without being too rebellious.
glass ligaments for example. At the same time, I can give
I wish I could be more rebellious, but my clothing is too
LMS: How about London?
a glass blower the opportunity to exhibit his pieces of
luxurious for that. And my collections always need to
JK: They understand the style, but there are less sales
art in fashion design stores around the world. Together
have a sense of beauty too.
opportunities, I have to admit. Style and mood wise I
we thrive more than on our own.
would love to be in London but technical wise I should LMS: Your designs come across as very strong and
be in Paris. My collections are exactly between the
masculine. What attracts you to that type?
roughness of London and the refinement of Paris.
“The only reason I use my name for my collection is because
JK: I simply love it! I do not understand why men are becoming more feminine in our society. Men are being
LMS: Then what do you think about the Milan
condemned nowadays when they are too masculine or if
store, Antolioni, that purchased some pieces of your
they are the sole wage-earner. I am not saying I am fine
with earning less then a man, but we should not detest
JK: Absolutely fantastic! One of my coats is currently
the idea of the man as a caretaker of his family. Men
exhibited as an art installation in the store. The other
and women are fundamentally different in so many
pieces will follow shortly. But it is absolutely amazing
ways, which I find important to respect and vouch for.
that my collection is now being sold next to Rick Owens,
So I defend a super masculinity in my designs!
Givenchy, Balmain and Balenciaga and to make it even
I find it crucial that when someone puts on one of my
better I am the only new brand they purchased this
JK: With Cry Havoc we are working on a new film and
clothes he or she immediately feels empowered. That is
season. It is all so exciting!
different expositions with collaborating artists and
the biggest compliment you can give to me. If the item
Also one of my favourite stores of all time, Darklands
concept developers. I would also love to present my
does not give you this empowerment, it is just not good
in Berlin, has also purchased some pieces with an art
fashion collection in a show again, by preference in
installation. So coming season my collection will be
Paris. But I am not thinking of a traditional show, but
available in Berlin, Milan and New York. I could never
of something totally different. And what I am secretly
have dreamt this. I like that each store has a very
dreaming of is to see my designs in a big production
different style, for example Milan is very high fashion,
movie. Imagine my clothes in Game of Thrones!
“I defend a super masculinity in my designs!”
every piece comes straight from my heart.” LMS: So what projects are you working on in the near
the New York store ‘Untitled’ has a more gothic feeling and Berlin is very avant-garde. It is interesting to see that my collection can be so diverse.
LMS: So how do you see yourself in the current and
LMS: Do you see yourself as a new breath of fresh air? JK: No I do not think so. But the menswear I defend
future fashion world?
LMS: Next to designing you run a creative agency ‘Cry
is definitely new and I am not backing down anytime
JK: That is a difficult question. I decided to show in
Havoc’ with Desirée Brands. How did this collaboration
soon. But I find it very pretentious to say that I might
Paris. There are so many inspiring people there who
be the next best thing. I am not reinventing the wheel.
are not afraid to do their own personal thing. Those
JK: It is a foundation now!
I am only making clothing.
26 GRADmagazine |
Jazz photographed in her atelier in Amsterdam in the Transvaalbuurt
â&#x20AC;&#x153;My collections are exactly between the roughness of London and the refinement of Paris.â&#x20AC;? | GRADmagazine
Model SILKE - FUTURE FACES Make-up & Hair by NIKKIE DE VRIES Styling by AMY KLEINGELD Photography by THOMAS VÃ&#x2DC;RDING
The underlying authority of the suit is undeniable. Without discriminating between men and women, the two or three piece seduces a higher power while accentuating the strength of each sex. So why not play around with this power? A suit does not define our gender.
Opposite page: Coat by WEEKDAY - Jacket by BLK DNM - Blouse by FILIPPA K - Bra by &OTHER STORIES - Shirt and Pants by READY TO FISH - Shoes by TOMMY HILFIGER - Earring through story by WEEKDAY
This page: Coat by WEEKDAY - Blouse by DOORHOUT MEES - Pants by WEEKDAY - Shoes by &OTHER STORIES
This page: Jacket by &OTHER STORIES - Blouse by WEEKDAY - Top by DOORHOUT MEES - Pants by WEEKDAY - Shoes by CLARKS - Necklace by WEEKDAY
This page: Jacket by WEEKDAY - Top by ANECDOTE - Blouse by INDIVIDUALS - Pants by BARBARA LANGENDIJK
This page: Coat by FILIPPA K - Suede coat by ARMA - Top by WEEKDAY - Short by BRUUNS BAZAAR - Shoes by &OTHER STORIES
This page: See first image
This page: Coat by WEEKDAY - Blouse by MBYM - Short blouse by SUMMUM - Pants by READY TO FISH
The craft of writing
Text and image courtsey of WILLIAM & SON
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36 GRADmagazine | ADVERTORIAL
SCANDROGYNY Sweden is in the top 5 of the world’s most gender-egalitarian
Blurry lines lead to the commercially coined term:
countries, based on a firm belief that men and women should
Androgyny. [an-droj-uh-nee] - adjective
share power and influence equally. The Swedish mentality
1. being both male and female; hermaphroditic.
towards gender equality serves as one of the cornerstones of
2. having both masculine and feminine characteristics.
their current society. The fundamentals being that everyone,
From then on, every era had its own take on androgyny when it
regardless of gender, has the right to work and support
came to the execution. However, it was always enforced by the
themselves, to balance career and family life, and to live without
sociological balance between men and women. From Katherine
the fear of abuse or violence. Gender equality implies not only
Hepburn in Hollywood, Twiggy in the 60’s and businesswomen
equal distribution between men and women in all domains of
trying to take a stylish stand in the 80’s.
society. It is also about the qualitative aspects, ensuring that the
In the current fashion zeitgeist, androgyny is yet again a favorable
knowledge and experience of both men and women are used to
trend. Yet many execute it without a political statement in the
promote progress in all aspects of society.
back of their minds. The Scandinavian aesthetic with minimalistic
Androgyny dates back to the emancipation of Queen Elizabeth
tendencies is the one that is the most adapted style amongst the
I in the Tudor dynasty. At the time it was a symbol of freeing
high street shoppers. Women seem to wear loose fitting pants
the woman’s body from tight fitting and movement restricting
with slouchy sweaters and boxy jackets. All of which hide the
garments. Men’s garments being quite the opposite and
natural feminine shape. All in the name of fashion. However, one
therefore far more appealing to the female race at that point in
could say that the roots of the androgynous style at this point
time. A small cult following happened shortly after.
in time, stemming from Sweden, do indeed convey an original
Despite the natural differences in terms of the ones we are born
political statement. One that comes from their feminist society.
with, Swedish males and females are prone to function as easily
Those exact same loose fitting pats with slouchy sweaters, boxy
as the other. This results not only in the way they treat each other
jackets and the absence of painstakingly high heels are a form
but the effect can be witnessed within the sense of dress too.
of equality. One that they connect to judging a human being by its actions as opposed to its appearance. Eliminating the ability to seduce the counter gender through form fitting clothing and by that also giving themselves the freedom to move without the restriction of uncomfortable yet socially accepted female forms of dressing. Women in Sweden seem to have developed a new way of portraying their sexuality and confidence. One that doesn’t revolve around showing skin or the fluid forms of their bodies. It’s the type of sexuality and confidence that comes from their attitude and success in society. One that is communicated by a strong personality. The best part being that a woman can dress however she wants without being called names, bad or good. Without being harassed. Without being thought of as a being that ranks lower than their male counterpart. In conclusion, today we can thank the Swedish mentality for the overruling minimalistic androgyny which we can lovingly rename: Scandrogyny.
Text by SUZANNE VAN HEERDE Image courtsey of ADAM KATZ SINDING
SCANDROGYNY | GRADmagazine
An interview with
Text by JARRON KAMPHORST
Photography by ESMAY WAGEMANS
Dutch rebel the
Bert Zuiderveen was one of the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;new styleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fashion designers for men in the late sixties, instead of driving the classic fashion highway paved by the big designers, he followed a completely new road. From a simple Dutch countryside boy he turned, within a couple of years, into one of the leading Dutch designers in the world of fashion. His love for the industry and his rebellion against the settled establishment made him part of the new avant-garde movement within the world of fashion. And still today he looks back with a certain kind of nostalgia. It is the minimalistic no nonsense approach of his work then, that defines him still nowadays.
An interview with
When entering his apartment in the De Pijp district of
that invited mostly European designers to exhibit their
wanted Bert as a head designer to show them the latest
Amsterdam, the smell of coffee and cigarettes greets you
creations to the world. They had scouted Bert via the
trends. ‘I followed the latest trends via the fashion
at the doorstep. Bert is standing in the narrow kitchen;
Society Shop for whom he made a men’s collection of
magazines and my own network. That is how I kept
he is dressed all in black, in his right hand a smoking
trousers and jackets. The designs he made were very
myself up-to-date. My job, by now chief fashion editor
cigarette butt and in the other a cup of coffee. On the
strict: jackets with high closures and wide collars
at the Libelle, was also an advantage, I had access to all
radio a man talks about the weather forecast: cloudy
without lapels, to be worn over a turtleneck and
the major events as a ‘journalist’ and whilst doing my
with some periods of sunshine. While he is sitting on
completed with fancy trousers. In the time his designs
work I could see the latest trends and developments in
a metal trash can Bert tells about how he started his
were considered very “wild” and totally different from
the fashion world which helped me with my other job:
career in the fashion industry. It was during a sickbed of
the dowdy concepts manufactured by the established
a few months that he started taking drawing classes. His
fashion designers. With his fresh look on fashion Bert
father decided to sign him up for the Academy for Arts
became part of the new Avant-garde and he started
With his work Bert became part of the ‘new school’
and Industry in Enschede, but was rejected. A year later
drawing attention. “Men fashion by the time was very
of the late sixties, early seventies. “We distinguished
Bert went again and he was accepted into the Academy
out-dated. Almost everything was the same”, recalls
ourselves from the ‘old’ classic fashion like Dior, Chanel
from which he graduated in 1966.
etcetera. We tried to concentrate on normal people, stepping away from the haute couture. The focus was
“I was even asked by Yves Saint Laurent to come work for him. But I rejected the offer. I found his style of working to precise, too much ‘haute couture’.”
on the malleability of clothing; we were not splitting hairs but simply trying to make ‘wearable’ clothes. The shows were also different from how they used to be. Instead of the ‘salons with gold chairs and chandeliers’ we had simple catwalks, plain white chairs, even the mannequins were more curvaceous than the skinny models in the old-fashioned shows. It was a small
It was at the very same academy that he decided to
“And there it was, the big breakthrough I had been
revolution breaking away from the ancien régime and
become a designer: “I remember the moment very
aiming at when I first stood in the main hall at the
bringing a new, modern approach to fashion.
precisely, I walked into the main hall of the Academy
Academy. My collection was flown all over the world. To
building and I saw that one of my teachers had won a
Japan, Hong Kong, it was even shown in the Alhambra in
suit tailor contest. The only thing I could think of was
Spain.” He tells it with a very calm and sober attitude,
that I wanted that too and that I wanted it right away.”
every now and then he takes a puff of his fifth morning cigarette. His white hair lights up in the early spring
As all big careers, also this one, started with the typical
sunlight that shines through the kitchen window. “The
‘newspaper-delivery-boy-beginning’. Bert his first job was
floodgates were opened and my reputation as a designer
I was inspired by society. The designs I made were based
at a trousers factory in the south of the Netherlands: “It
skyrocketed in no time. I had loads of money and I was
on the current zeitgeist; I always tried to make clothes
was nothing special, just a kick-off to a bigger dream.”
surrounded by beautiful women.” In his eyes a light
for the ‘normal’ man. Haute Couture was something
After a while, however, the business went bankrupt and
melancholic glance appears when he talks about the
I thought of as conservative and old-fashioned. Not
the director told Bert to go talk to Dick Hendrikse the
time he dated Miss Europe and his ex-wife Virginia who
meant for me. I was more industry orientated so I made
former editor in chief of the Libelle magazine. Even
was a former Burberry model. The impression arises
collections for a.m. Macintosh (NL), Altmann (Austria),
tough he did not have any journalistic experience, he
that he lived life like a rock star back then.
Schiesser (Swiss) and Jockey (Europe, USA). This was
still decided to go and got a job as a fashion editor at
“Men fashion by the time was very out-dated. Almost everything was the same.”
a whole new view on fashion. I did not want to be
the magazine. “When I asked Hendrikse why he gave me
And indeed after the International Fashion Council Bert
associated with the old guys.” He stops his story for a
the job, he laughed at me and said that he just wanted
had the wind in his sails. ‘I remember the first time I
brief moment, smiles and than continues on a careless
a man between all the female hysteria in the editorial
got flown into Brussels. I had to do a presentation of
tone: “I was even asked by Yves Saint Laurent to come
office.” Bert started the job under one condition: the
one hour for a board of directors at the Avenue Louise
work for him. But I rejected the offer. I found his style of
freedom to work as a freelance designer outside of office
and afterwards I immediately had to get on the plane
working to precise, too much ‘haute couture’. They work
hours in order to achieve the goal that he had set after
back home. By the time I got there I had earned 10.000
as fusspots over there and as I said I was passionate
Guilders.’ The big industry factories kept coming to
about the industry, simplicity and minimalism. But still
During this period Bert was already in contact with
him one after another. Bayer, DuPont, Amcel (American
I took it as a great compliment that he asked me. Of
the International Fashion Council, an annual event
Celanese), IWS (International Wool Secretariat), all
An interview with
Bert photographed in his home in Amsterdam in the Pijp
“I always tried to make clothes for the ‘normal’ man. Haute Couture was something I thought of as conservative and old-fashioned. Not meant for me. ” In the meanwhile Bert’s daily life remained quite normal he says. “I lived in a fairly big apartment in Utrecht, I had a lot of designer stuff, I drove not only an Alpha Coupé GTV but also a Jaguar and I had all kinds of ‘fair trade’ trumpery.” Where normal begins and where it stops remains something particularly personal. “I had this weird obsession with compositions. Everything in my house had to be in a certain place and in a certain position; otherwise it did not feel right. The ashtray on the table, the lighter next to it, they all had to be in the composition I thought of.” When asked if he would consider himself a neurotic person he answers negatively. “I would call it obsessed by beauty. Not neurotic.” Even today this professional deformation is still present. “Some time ago my daughter-in-law came by and she pulled down the Luxaflex a bit. I told her not to do so because it disturbs the composition of the room.” He looks earnest. The coffee that is still in his left hand is cold.
Bert’s work as a chief fashion editor at the Libelle lasted for three years. The nine till five jobs, he says, he has always hated. He wants to control things by himself. “Business politics is something I despise; I cannot handle it to be bossed around. So three years is quite a long time if you take that into consideration.” He remembers a time when he was called into the office by his editor in chief who asked him why he tended to come in late for work. When Bert asked a little bit surprised how he would know that, he answered that the management had seen him roll in with his expensive car at ten o’clock several times. “I always stayed in late at the office, not to speak about the studio photography until the early hours, so sometimes I also got in late. Obviously. They were just jealous.” After a few years Bert left for Portugal for a period of twelve years to help the local ready-to-wear industry with the manufacturing of collections. When he came back to Holland he started a professional career in photography. “I was done with fashion and besides, my old network was long gone since I had not lived in Holland for over ten years. If I look back now I can only think of the good times I had back then.” But it is not nostalgia only that overwhelms him: “I also think of the ‘semi-intellectual’ nonsense people in the fashion forecast world blabber about. If I read fashion magazines today, I almost feel ashamed that I once was part of that world. The perky attitude and the arrogance that is inherent to a big part of the fashion world is something I cannot stand. Because, come on guys, it is only fashion we are talking about. There is more to life than that.”
Image courtsey of the Gentlewoman - Kasia Bobula
The Grad Meeting
In honour of every new issue we want to celebrate and bring together every party contributing and making this issue even better then the one before. Our readers, contributors and the fashion world surrounding us make each issue a piece to collect. So why not have a drink and a chat all together? Register on our website to stay up to date for any future events.
44 GRADmagazine | The Mykro Meeting
Laura Romée Hersée illustrated a ‘gender free face’ by abstracting the eminent details that divide our face into a man or woman. Her strong lines emphasize the base that makes up a face: two eyes, two ears, a nose and a mouth. Available in different sizes online.
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