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GRAD

A detailed collection of style


Editor’s letter Welcome to the first edition of Grad magazine. In this issue we explore a topic that is under constant discussion in our current society. The clear and strict lines surrounding gender go back to the time where women gathered berries and men went out to hunt. But forwarding to the modern times of 2015 women not only gather, they hunt and men not only hunt, they gather. And more importantly we can choose which role we would like to pursue. There is no final definition of what makes a man a man and what makes a woman a woman, as there should not be one. Grad magazine is not a manifesto of how the world should be, we merely give a view of the world as it is. Where gender lines still can define who we are, but also now more then ever, these lines can be broken and bend. As the world is still fighting for gay rights and Olympic champion and reality TV star Bruce Jenner is publicly transitioning into a woman, the discussion is not over yet. Only merely starting, with terms as being ‘genderqueer’, meaning ‘being genderless’, supporting this new turn. Even Facebook has altered their gender options to around fifty possibilities, which makes choosing even harder. Even Amsterdam, which can be seen as one of the most open-minded cities, has its struggles with acceptance. We spoke with photographer Jakub Oleskevic who urges you to think beyond the globally accepted perception of beauty. Even questioning the interpretation of gender, feeling it narrows your point of view. Or Rachel Green, a DJ who pushes the stereotypical boundaries of a masculine scene by simply not presenting herself as a ‘female DJ’. And Jazz Kuipers, an avant-garde menswear designer who advocates for more masculine men, by creating luxurious items which stimulate a bodybuilder type of feeling. Even looking back at those lively seventies, a time where Bert Zuiderveen rebelled against the boring men’s fashion with a minimalistic no nonsense approach. We take a closer look at the new ‘mansome’ and accept without shame that grooming has a beauty within. We conclude this issue with some rich sense of style, and a reminder to never underestimate the power of the suit. The male and female stereotype of prestige does not shy away of coyly flirting with gender lines. While making this isse we can honestly say that we have learned and grown, valuing every story and point of view. Binding these thoughts to create a diverse image of the world surrounding us, which we hope you will enjoy as much as we did.

With love,


Editor-in-chief Lisa Marie Sneijder

Art Direction Lisa Marie Sneijder

Contributing editor Anna Nijsters

Contributing writers Jarron Kamphorst Suzanne van Heerde

Contributing stylists Amy Kleingeld

Contributing photographers Esmay Wagemans Thomas Vørding Martijn Senders

Contributing illustrators Laura Romée Hersée

Special thanks Rachel Green Silke Hajunga Jazz Kuipers Bert Kwaasteniet Jakub Oleskevic Nikki de Vries Bert Zuiderveen Future Faces Model Management The staff of Julia’s Zuid The staff of Coffee Company

THIS ISSUE IS PRINTED IN MAY 2015 IN THE NETHERLANDS AS A GRADUATION PROJECT OF LISA MARIE SNEIJDER FOR THE AMSTERDAM FASHION INSTITUTE.


Table Frames of gender An illustration by

The warmth of the bass

of content 4 6

An interview with

The order of beauty

10

An interview with

Being mansome

14

#Free the nipple

19

The creation of men

20

An interview with

A strong suit

28

Scandrogyny

37

The Dutch rebel of the 70s

38

An interview with

Table of content | GRADmagazine

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An illustration by

4

GRADmagazine | Frames of gender


Frames

of

gender

For each issue Mykro magazine invites a different artist to illustrate the theme of that issue. The main reason is to emphasize that images are just as important as words to tell a complete story. Moreover we love collaborating and meeting inspiring people while making another issue of Mykro magazine, and we are eager to share this experience with you. For our first issue we teamed up with Laura Romée Hersée, an Amsterdam born illustrator and graphic designer. As a child she filled her days with illustrating her fascination of the world surrounding her. At this day nothing has really changed aside of her cum laude diploma in ArtDirection of the JUNIOR Academy in Amsterdam. Her creativity seems to never let her down, finding inspiration in every detail of life. Her passion brings her all over the world, always with a sketchbook in her hand. Her fondness of beauty and fashion perfectly translates into her illustrations showing that it only takes a single line to create timeless elegance. We asked Laura to illustrate the theme ‘gender’ for this issue. Giving her nothing more than this one word. She describes her illustration as a ‘gender free face’, abstracted of the detail that usually characterize an appearance. “I love to draw faces. To me it is the most fascinating part of a person. The base is always the same: two eyes, two ears, a nose and a mouth, but adding just a few simple details can make a face expressive, more feminine or masculine. So usually when I start I don’t know whether it is going to be a boy or a girl because in the end, a face is just a face. “

Frames of gender | GRADmagazine

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An interview with

warmth of the bass

The

Rachella Groen or better known as Rachel Green is an Amsterdam based upcoming DJ specialised in bass genre. She has taken the Amsterdam music scene by storm, becoming a household name and has played at almost every club. This summer a long list of festivals can be added to her already busy schedule. She describes her sound as ‘heavy sounds and weird noises’. So on a sunny afternoon we sat down to find out where these weird noises come from and how it feels to work in a very masculine scene.

Lisa Marie Sneijder: Let’s start at the beginning, where does your

music I liked, because we would be driving for many hours at a time.

love of music come from?

At some point we ended up stuck between jobs and decided to go

Rachel Green: My love of music does not come from a specific place

out one night to X-Base club in Sydney. The DJ played some awesome

or time. I simply grew up with it. My mom had a wonderful habit.

hip-hop music that was similar to the music I had on my own cd’s. So

She always kept the music on when she left the house, so that there

I walked up to him offering some songs I had. But I guess he did not

would be music playing when we returned home. She preferred

understand a word of what I was saying, as he yelled to come back on

something bluesy like Nina Simone. That triggered me at a young

Wednesday afternoon.

age to find out my own musical preferences. I always loved going to music stores or concerts and finding new music. I always wanted to surround myself with music.

So that Wednesday I went back, fully prepared to give him my cd’s, but instead he wanted to see my skills behind a deck. Somehow I

LMS: Maybe there was a specific moment when you decided to

managed to impress him with my style, since he offered me to join him

become a DJ?

that very same night in the club. That one night eventually turned

RG: Not really no, I started out at home with a few girlfriends. We

into four nights every week. I rapidly became a club household name

tried spinning the decks just for fun and played games. It was not

for some time. The fact that I am a woman supported my popularity

until I went to Australia that things changed.

even more. At the time it was very uncommon to see a female behind the decks, especially in hip-hop music. But I really learned how to

6

LMS: Yes! I have read that you took over by surprise some nights in

entertain a crowd and understand them music wise. I think that my

a club in Australia and everybody loved you. How did that happen?

success was based on these three factors, my understanding of the

RB: It was all one big coincidence actually. In 2009, I was travelling

crowd and their needs, my music choices and the fact there were so

with a friend in Australia and I had prepared some mix cd’s with

few women behind the decks at that time.

GRADmagazine |

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Text by LISA MARIE SNEIJDER

Photography by ESMAY WAGEMANS


An interview with

LMS: And then you came back to Amsterdam. How have

was more honoured that so many people voted for me,

completely focussed on my deck. I am not performing

you picked up the DJ work here?

because there were a lot of beautiful people on that list.

an act, I want my music to become one with the people.

RG: A few friends organised some parties at gay clubs

So a dark little club would be my favourite, but looking

and they thought it would be fun to let me play. Even

over a crowd of 6000 people throwing their hands into

though they were not very familiar with my style yet.

LMS: You’re also organising you own party ‘Bassed’.

the air all because of your track, is most definitely a

That turned out to be a success, so the ball started

How did this start?

goose bump moment. But I feel more of a connection

rolling from there.

RG: It started out of a joined frustration that the music

standing on their level and not behind a bunch of

scene in Amsterdam feels really restricted. In general,

bodyguards and on a high stage.

LMS: How would you explain your style? You have called

I would be booked for different events, each with a

it once: ‘heavy sounds and weird noises’. What does that

long list of guidelines to follow. But I would think, if

LMS: You played at Milkshake festival, a liberal dance

mean?

my music does not fit your concept, I am not suited for

festival that is strongly opposed to the narrowminded

RG: Well, exactly that! I love the rhythm of deep basses

your party.

idea of society surrounding gender and sexuality, do you

combined with unexpected sounds. The weird sounds

So with a few friends we decided to organise a low-

find it important to show support on such occasions?

can be anything. I like it when it is a bit odd or out

key music-event with cheap beer and with no pictures

RG: Not specifically, but I do really support Milkshake

of place, for example I am currently working on a new

taken. I also feel that the party scene nowadays is solely

festival. I think it is a very important initiative since a

track where we are including some Bollywood sounds,

focussed on finding a new profile picture for Facebook.

lot of awareness is still needed, but I am not adjusting

to give the track that extra layer. I find it very important

Our event ‘ Bassed’ gives people the opportunity to dance

my sound for it. But I will play with a little extra love.

that the bass goes very deep and triggers the whole

and sweat unrestrained and for DJ’s to experiment and

body. It is a feeling difficult to describe. It is a profound

play whatever they want.

LMS: Do you think you will always stay in the music

emotion that flows through your body. A sensual and

It is interesting to see that the women feel much more

scene?

warm feeling that has magnetic effects, it connects you

at ease, especially when I am behind the decks. The

RG: Yes absolutely! No doubt about it. My work as a

firmly with earth. It is that magnetic warmth which

area in front of the DJ booth becomes more accessible

production manager at 22 Tracks, which is an online

pulls me in every time.

to them.

music discovery service which is curated by local top DJs from Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris and London, proves now more than ever how important music is

“I am a DJ first and foremost and accidentally I happen to be female. I want to be booked because you love my music, not because of my gender.”

to me. I love coming to work and be surrounded by inspirational people and lots of music. LMS: Do you feel you will stay a DJ for the rest of your

life? RG: I would love to keep performing for a lot of years to come, but eventually the long nights will become a burden I think. So after that I would like to focus more

8

LMS: How does it feel to be a female DJ in such a male

This feeling of freedom was sensed at the famous dub

on producing and production. But I will never leave the

scene?

‘Oi’ parties around 2010 where nobody bothered about

music scene.

RG:I have not experienced any problems yet, I’m not shy

their looks but just let their bodies bounce to the heavy

telling the others that I am a lesbian and suddenly I am

bass, bumping into each other right and left. And that

LMS: Last question! Does your stage name have

their buddy! That makes it a lot easier.

is what I want to achieve during my music evenings.

anything to do with ‘Rachel Green’ for the TV series

Besides, I am very aware of not profiling myself as a

‘Friends’?

‘female DJ’. I am a DJ first and foremost and accidentally

RG: This is a popular question! Yes it does. Back in the

I happen to be female. I want to be booked because you

LMS: I saw that you are fully booked all summer for

days when I started, I had written down many possible

love my music, not because of my gender.

all different kinds of festivals. What do you prefer as

names, but not one was standing out or was funny

a venue?

enough. So the easiest thing would be to translate my

LMS: But you did win the Golden Gnome award for

RG: I prefer a place where I am very close to the crowd.

Dutch name into English. (Groen is Dutch for green) So

‘Most sexy DJ’, what do you think of that?

I want to feel the energy of the room and together

I did. And, I do admit, I like the Friends reference. I have

RG: Oh that was fun! Also it was the third time I was

with the crowd want to get lost into the music. I like to

always been a big fan of the TV series, I have all the

nominated. So maybe it was third time the charm? I

feel the connection because when I am spinning I am

seasons next to my bed.

GRADmagazine |

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Rachel photographed in the Sarphati park in Amsterdam next to her home


An interview with Jakub Oleskevic is a Lithuanian photographer of Polish descent, currently living in Amsterdam. In his work ‘Hashtag’ (2014) he looks at the different ways we interpret the idea of beauty. He is fascinated how plastic surgery has altered the way we see our body. We no longer accept and love the way we look. We learn that everything can be modified to our ever-changing opinion. So, on a drowsy Thursday afternoon I picked his brain to find out what beauty truly means.


Text by LISA MARIE SNEIJDER

of

Image by JAKUB OLESKEVIC

The

order

beauty

“I see my work ‘Hashtag’ as a sinister kind of beauty. A beauty that is sugar coated with

that is wildly discussed in Lithuania; they would rather just avoid it all together. So

bright colours, but if you look closer it is a collection of cut up body parts. The dolls

eventually I learned that I should not be taken over by my insecurities, but better to

may be smiling, but the smile is obviously painted on. Which you could compare to

accept them as part of my personality and rather use them to improve myself. I think

all the nip and tucks that one might find necessary in order to find a reason to smile

anyone should try this. That is why my question remains, if I can come to terms with

again. For the background I used candy like pink and blue to underline the happy

who I am, how hard can it be to accept a slightly bigger nose or breasts that are not

feeling, contrasting the cruel image of the rows of body parts.

a cup D.”

People are always influenced by society but the question is always to what extent? Altering ones body is not bad to a certain degree, but plastic surgery feels too

“Being part of a minority group myself, I know how it feels to be insecure, therefore

fabricated and fake.”

I will never judge anyone on his insecurities. Embracing them will make you feel so much stronger. This is the reason why I never think in terms of gender when I meet

“There is nothing wrong with fake in terms for medical purposes but people changing

new people. I do not perceive people as a certain gender, back in Lithuania I was

the way they look seems not right to me. When true personal looks are altered, one

constantly put wrongly in a category that did not fit. Your gender is who you are as

becomes almost robotic. People let their insecurities take over instead of finding their

an individual. I have always felt as an outsider, even now living in Amsterdam. But it

own beauty.”

keeps me open-minded and interested in different people.”

“Not that I have one conclusive definition of what beauty is, but beauty is based on

“I’m still trying to find a different reality, a

different visual features triggering my emotions and making me happy. So you can find beauty in anything. Even something that is perceived as ugly can be beautiful in its own way. For example, I may not like a specific shade of the colour orange, but I will

better and a more beautiful one. I’m trying

definitely find a shade I do like. So the colour orange becomes beautiful to me.”

to find it through my art.”

“Also the common idea of beauty is not realistic, as it seems to be a constant search for perfection. Nowadays, we are constantly looking for something that looks perfect, isn’t it? I must admit that I do, like with the apps in my phone, which I have colour-

“I’m convinced that my past is still influencing me and my work but in a positive way.

coordinated. That order makes it perfect for me. It is beautiful to me. I know this

Because I didn’t find my reality back home pretty or suiting, I’m still trying to find a

might come across as a little OCD, but even my belongings in my apartment are

different reality, a better and a more beautiful one. I’m trying to find it through my

colour-coordinated, that composition keeps me calm. Sometimes I tend to be a chaotic

art. That is why I prefer to work digitally. I often use a kaleidoscopic order that is

person, so a neat and calm room is necessary to be able to function properly every day.

symmetrical and consistent, combined with rich colours like a deep blue. For ‘Hashtag’

And yes, I am extremely sensitive to colours.”

I wanted to step outside my comfort zone and create the same kaleidoscopic order but without digitally manipulating the image and really trying to create a still life. The

“My need for order in my current life derives from my upbringing, as I come from a

beauty here for me can be found in the structure and symmetrical order.”

traditional and homophobic place where I have always felt that I didn’t fit in. Even my parents still have a hard time adjusting to the idea that I am gay. My dad would

“Let my advice be to never let others or society tell you who you are, nor let them

rather just not touch upon the topic. It is like a big homosexual elephant in the room.

criticize you because of your insecurities, but be happy with what you have and what

So during my childhood I did not look to fit or be like the other children. I realised at

you can offer, just the way you are. If you can do that, you are a real beauty. No surgery

an early age that I was not the same and did not want to be. Being gay is not a topic

needed.”

| GRADmagazine

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mansome

Being Is a man a man when he goes out to hunt and bathes in hot springs high up a mountain? Will he be less of a man when sitting in a hot bath with scented oil reviving his skin with an earthly scrub? The answer is: no he will not. It is 2015 and men no longer shy away of a little grooming here and there. So, we have lined up our favourite products to try out immediately up a mountain or in your bathtub.

Photography by MARTIJN SENDERS

Concept by LISA MARIE SNEIJDER

Model BERT KWAASTENIET


Opposite page: Moroccan Tea Body Scrub by & OTHER STORIES - Charcoal & Black Sugar facial mask by FREEMAN - Face Scrub by CLINIQUE FOR MEN

This page: Oud Wood Shower Gel by TOM FORD


Opposite page: Sartorial Beard Oil by PENHALIGON

This page: Harwax by SHOWTIME - Matt Clay Wax by UPPERCUT DELUXE - Rework Putty by ANDRELON MEN


Back cover: Shaving crème by TABAC

This page: Shaving Foam by GILLETTE - Hair gel by SEBASTIAN LIQUID STEEL


#FREE THE NIPPLE We live in a world where a character on your keyboard can start a revolution. That one character decides if your voice is heard on our world wide web. I must say I love using the hash tag to my benefit. Who would not like their opinions and pictures acknowledged from across the world? Twitter gives millions the freedom to speak as loudly as they can. In some cases a little turbulence would not have hurt. Maybe sometimes being more safe then sorry, might be a good way to go. But not in this case. Icelandic women have been lifting their shirts for a while now causing rebel hearted, free spirited nipples of women around the world to follow suit. No shame in their game, because why should there be? A nipple has been a nipple since the nipple was born. And more importantly it does not discriminate between male or female, looking exactly the same on each and every chest. Or other body part, as some people have a little extra. Still what caused Instagram’s strong censorship on female nipples? Banning uses and taking down posts in matter of hours. It is a full time job really, with more then 300 million users worldwide up to date. The argument issued out of the Instagram headquarters emphasizes a family friendly approach. Contradicting all age and all time favourite image website Tumblr,

Aside of these young eyes, why not leave a decision like exposing

who seems to be fine with a nipple here and there, basically

your breasts to the world see to the one owning them? There is no

cheering them on. The sexuality of a breast is a valid point, but it

reason society should make women doubt the way their bodies

is a very narrow minded idiot to not see the difference between a

look. Suddenly deleting a picture for no apparent reason except

loving mom breastfeeding her new born and a pornographic shot

‘you are female’ does not make a strong point. And is actually

of a couple double D’s bouncing up and down. Still what is so

very offensive. Even more so, paintings dating back hundreds of

wrong with confronting younger minds with a couple of breasts?

years did not have a problem with a few nipples, they celebrated

They have seen them from a very close angle their whole little

them. Honouring the beauty of women and their bodies.

lives. Even better, they have been one of the most important

So society, come on, let’s accept we all have them and always

reasons of their wellbeing. Nothing to be restrained from in my

will and get over the obsessive sheltering of the young eyes

opinion.

wandering through the web. A little nudity never hurt anybody.

Text by LISA MARIE SNEIJDER Image courtsey of SEBASTIAN FAENA in “Plain White” for CR Fashion Book #5

#FREE THE NIPPLE | GRADmagazine

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An interview with


Text by LISA MARIE SNEIJDER

Photography by ESMAY WAGEMANS

The

creation

of men

Jazz Kuipers is an Amsterdam based self-proclaimed avant-garde menswear designer. Only two years after graduating from the Amsterdam Fashion Institute her agenda is overloaded with projects. She presented her first collection in a showroom during the Paris Fashion Week last January, which was instantly sold to three stores in Milan, New York and Berlin. Together with another AMFI alumnus DesirĂŠe Brands she started her own creative foundation wanting to stimulate collaboration between different creative disciplines On the top floor of an artist community building located in the Transvaal district in Amsterdam, Jazz has her own atelier with rays of sunlight pouring through the windows and racks filled with big coats. We sat next to her sewing machines and discussed where all this creativity comes from.

| GRADmagazine

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An interview with

Lisa Marie Sneijder: Let’s start with a logical first

LMS: What about unisex clothing, could that become a big

to push my first collection through, but it was far from

question. When did you decide to become a fashion

hit in the future?

easy. Still I have learned a lot from that process and I

designer?

JK: I personally wear most of my collection. So it all

started to develop my own style. So the collection I am

Jazz Kuipers: That I remember very well! Before I went

depends on what you define as unisex: is it a woman

now working on is much more mature. My characters are

to AMFI I wanted to join the army. But a week before the

wearing men’s clothing? So that would define my clothing

not simple, for example he has a moustache or a beard,

military training would start, I decided that I really prefer

already as unisex. I do not think that there is something

but they are more intuitively created.

to make things with my hands. So in the end, the army has

like unisex clothing, the starting point is always male or

never seen me on any training. In my second year at AMFI

female. Fashion designing is always gender based. The

LMS: Why was it so hard to develop your last collection?

I was selected to join the Honours programme, which is an

only designer to try to nail down the unisex idea is Rad

JK: First of all, the collection is very complex in the

extra program during the summer for excellent students.

Hourani. He plays with the gender types and floats in an

materials, techniques and heaviness of fabrics. Also

We went to Paris for men’s fashion week and I visited

undefined grey middle. Still all his clothing has a very

the quality has to be of high standard, because the

the Boris Bidjan Saberi show. I was completely blown

loose fitting without accentuating any specific body types.

retail price is not very cheap. Besides, the first year of

away. I never thought fashion could be like this. That is

Eventually the only thing he does is making a man more

entrepreneurship is always very hard. You have to learn

the moment I realised I really wanted to be a menswear

female and a woman more male. I think that is the closest

everything at once and everything goes in very dramatic

designer.

you can get to unisex.

LMS: What did the presentation of Boris Bidjan Saberi

look like? What was so special about it? JK: The collection was presented in a very dark and avantgarde like setting. The models stormed onto the catwalk and everything had a sense of darkness surrounding the squared room. It had a post apocalyptic feeling to it, which was very fitting for the time. At AMFI black and darkness

“My new collection is based on the idea of a ‘sonic boom’. That is the sound associated with the shock waves created by an object traveling through the air faster than the speed of sound.”

is not always appreciated in my opinion, so for me this was very new. Eventually I have fought hard to maintain

LMS: Lets go back to where it all started. Did clothing

ups and downs. I am lucky to have a business partner who

my dark style at school, and ultimately I succeeded.

interest you as a child?

helps me out a lot, but I still manage to do a lot wrong

JK: Not really actually. I was more interested in making

simply because it is all very new to me.

LMS: So after the Honours project you decided to go for

things and had a rich fantasy. More specifically I was

men’s fashion?

building huts and making up stories. That is something I

LMS: Do you have a different view on male clothing as a

JK: Yes, right after that summer, I started to work

actually still do today, I always start with creating a story.

female designer? Is it maybe easier to release conventions?

for the AMFI brand Individuals, for one full semester.

For my collections I first draw up a story with different

JK: Yes, absolutely! As a woman I do appreciate a male

Together with classmate Lotte van Dijk we determined

characters and I create my clothes from there. You could

body. When you look at male designers who design

the direction of the brand and slightly pushed everyone

say that the hut stories I made up as a child, were a

menswear, like Rick Owens or Boris Bidjan Saberi, it is

towards our vision. The celebrated ‘Duals’ collection is the

precedent of my current designing stories..

all about comfort. The pieces are nice but very practical

result of our hard work, which I am still very proud of. It

and casual. I want to bring more shape into menswear. LMS: So what kind of characters and stories do you

Woman’s fashion is all about the hourglass figure and

up to date.

invent?

creating silhouettes and for men it is all about long baggy

For that collection I made some unisex pieces and added

JK: They are a representation of what I feel what strikes

formless sweats, unless you buy a suit. But not many

some unique pieces for men. That was the first time ever

me or what keeps me busy in a personal struggle . For

designers looks at the beautiful aspects of the male body

menswear was added to the collection. After I interned at

example, my new collection, that I just started designing,

and how to accentuate them.

Boris in my third year, I never designed for women again.

is based on the idea of a ‘sonic boom’. That is the sound

was one of the best selling collections of our school brand

associated with the shock waves created by an object

LMS: Aha, what are those beautiful aspects of the male

LMS: Do you think you will ever design for women again?

traveling through the air faster than the speed of sound.

body according to you ?

JK: Well, since my graduation I was lucky enough to team

Sonic booms generate enormous amounts of sound energy,

JK: I always look at the shoulders and the back of a man.

up with a business partner and he stimulates me to

sounding much like an explosion. So I started wondering

I find the front more difficult, especially in designing.

think about that possibility. If I want my business to grow,

about all different kind of barriers, suddenly deep-sea fish

I always make the waist smaller to the eye, so it will

women’s wear might be a necessity in the end. For now it

intrigued me because you cannot see them, you cannot

accentuate a bodybuilder kind of shape. I also use a lot of

is not my next step yet, and actually I would rather not do

reach them.

shoulder pads to make the contrast even bigger, without

it. But businesswise it would be smart

I think this typical fascination started when I lived in

making it look 80’s. For a summer collection, this will be a

London for half a year. In this city of extremes, I managed

challenge because I cannot use that many shoulder pads.

22 GRADmagazine |


“I always start with creating a story. For my collections I first draw up a story with different characters and I create my clothes from there.�


An interview with

LMS: So for your summer collection are you going to use

contacts are so valuable to me. The only reason why I

LMS: I was not aware of the switch, why this change?

lighter colours and fabrics?

use my name for my collection is because every piece

JK: We wanted to change to a foundation because we

JK: Yes I am going to combine soft and strong fabrics. I

comes straight from my heart, so any other name would

did not want to become a corporate business. We want

have a solid fabric where we can build a construction

just not be fitting enough. But aside of that I do not

to make amazing art and bring people together that

with, which is not too hot. Still summer is not my

find it important to shout my name everywhere, I would

can help each other out. Cry Havoc should be a bridge

favourite season as a designer. But my strong suit is

rather exhibit my work.

between creativity and industry.

pattern. For my summer collection I want to focus on

LMS: And why did you specifically show in Paris?

LMS: How does fashion fit into such a project?

those lines to make it something different.

JK: Paris has the most opportunities. I thought

JK: Usually I invent the most insane projects and look

about the Netherlands, but it just does not have any

for artists who can help me with that. Aside of that I

LMS: You describe yourself as an avant-garde designer.

added value, especially because of the indifference to

do not have a very broad art knowledge, but I believe

What do you mean by that? What is avant-garde

menswear and to dark colours. Everything has to be

that collaboration is so empowering especially between

the lines in my designs, the seams that construct the

according to you?

bright and colourful, which I am definitely not showing

different disciplines. They make it possible for me to tell

JK: To me, avant-garde means to abandon clichés and to

in my collections. I do feel that Dutch men are ready for

my story even better. I am having fun designing clothes,

open new horizons. In designing menswear it means to

this new style, but the press has not picked up on it yet.

but they will impress more when they are presented on

let go of traditional designs without being too rebellious.

glass ligaments for example. At the same time, I can give

I wish I could be more rebellious, but my clothing is too

LMS: How about London?

a glass blower the opportunity to exhibit his pieces of

luxurious for that. And my collections always need to

JK: They understand the style, but there are less sales

art in fashion design stores around the world. Together

have a sense of beauty too.

opportunities, I have to admit. Style and mood wise I

we thrive more than on our own.

would love to be in London but technical wise I should LMS: Your designs come across as very strong and

be in Paris. My collections are exactly between the

masculine. What attracts you to that type?

roughness of London and the refinement of Paris.

“The only reason I use my name for my collection is because

JK: I simply love it! I do not understand why men are becoming more feminine in our society. Men are being

LMS: Then what do you think about the Milan

condemned nowadays when they are too masculine or if

store, Antolioni, that purchased some pieces of your

they are the sole wage-earner. I am not saying I am fine

collection?

with earning less then a man, but we should not detest

JK: Absolutely fantastic! One of my coats is currently

the idea of the man as a caretaker of his family. Men

exhibited as an art installation in the store. The other

and women are fundamentally different in so many

pieces will follow shortly. But it is absolutely amazing

ways, which I find important to respect and vouch for.

that my collection is now being sold next to Rick Owens,

So I defend a super masculinity in my designs!

Givenchy, Balmain and Balenciaga and to make it even

future?

I find it crucial that when someone puts on one of my

better I am the only new brand they purchased this

JK: With Cry Havoc we are working on a new film and

clothes he or she immediately feels empowered. That is

season. It is all so exciting!

different expositions with collaborating artists and

the biggest compliment you can give to me. If the item

Also one of my favourite stores of all time, Darklands

concept developers. I would also love to present my

does not give you this empowerment, it is just not good

in Berlin, has also purchased some pieces with an art

fashion collection in a show again, by preference in

enough.

installation. So coming season my collection will be

Paris. But I am not thinking of a traditional show, but

available in Berlin, Milan and New York. I could never

of something totally different. And what I am secretly

have dreamt this. I like that each store has a very

dreaming of is to see my designs in a big production

different style, for example Milan is very high fashion,

movie. Imagine my clothes in Game of Thrones!

“I defend a super masculinity in my designs!”

every piece comes straight from my heart.” LMS: So what projects are you working on in the near

the New York store ‘Untitled’ has a more gothic feeling and Berlin is very avant-garde. It is interesting to see that my collection can be so diverse.

LMS: So how do you see yourself in the current and

LMS: Do you see yourself as a new breath of fresh air? JK: No I do not think so. But the menswear I defend

future fashion world?

LMS: Next to designing you run a creative agency ‘Cry

is definitely new and I am not backing down anytime

JK: That is a difficult question. I decided to show in

Havoc’ with Desirée Brands. How did this collaboration

soon. But I find it very pretentious to say that I might

Paris. There are so many inspiring people there who

originate?

be the next best thing. I am not reinventing the wheel.

are not afraid to do their own personal thing. Those

JK: It is a foundation now!

I am only making clothing.

26 GRADmagazine |


Jazz photographed in her atelier in Amsterdam in the Transvaalbuurt

“My collections are exactly between the roughness of London and the refinement of Paris.� | GRADmagazine

27


Model SILKE - FUTURE FACES Make-up & Hair by NIKKIE DE VRIES Styling by AMY KLEINGELD Photography by THOMAS VØRDING

suit

strong

A

The underlying authority of the suit is undeniable. Without discriminating between men and women, the two or three piece seduces a higher power while accentuating the strength of each sex. So why not play around with this power? A suit does not define our gender.


Opposite page: Coat by WEEKDAY - Jacket by BLK DNM - Blouse by FILIPPA K - Bra by &OTHER STORIES - Shirt and Pants by READY TO FISH - Shoes by TOMMY HILFIGER - Earring through story by WEEKDAY

This page: Coat by WEEKDAY - Blouse by DOORHOUT MEES - Pants by WEEKDAY - Shoes by &OTHER STORIES


This page: Jacket by &OTHER STORIES - Blouse by WEEKDAY - Top by DOORHOUT MEES - Pants by WEEKDAY - Shoes by CLARKS - Necklace by WEEKDAY


This page: Jacket by WEEKDAY - Top by ANECDOTE - Blouse by INDIVIDUALS - Pants by BARBARA LANGENDIJK


This page: Coat by FILIPPA K - Suede coat by ARMA - Top by WEEKDAY - Short by BRUUNS BAZAAR - Shoes by &OTHER STORIES


This page: See first image


This page: Coat by WEEKDAY - Blouse by MBYM - Short blouse by SUMMUM - Pants by READY TO FISH


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36 GRADmagazine | ADVERTORIAL


SCANDROGYNY Sweden is in the top 5 of the world’s most gender-egalitarian

Blurry lines lead to the commercially coined term:

countries, based on a firm belief that men and women should

Androgyny. [an-droj-uh-nee] - adjective

share power and influence equally. The Swedish mentality

1. being both male and female; hermaphroditic.

towards gender equality serves as one of the cornerstones of

2. having both masculine and feminine characteristics.

their current society. The fundamentals being that everyone,

From then on, every era had its own take on androgyny when it

regardless of gender, has the right to work and support

came to the execution. However, it was always enforced by the

themselves, to balance career and family life, and to live without

sociological balance between men and women. From Katherine

the fear of abuse or violence. Gender equality implies not only

Hepburn in Hollywood, Twiggy in the 60’s and businesswomen

equal distribution between men and women in all domains of

trying to take a stylish stand in the 80’s.

society. It is also about the qualitative aspects, ensuring that the

In the current fashion zeitgeist, androgyny is yet again a favorable

knowledge and experience of both men and women are used to

trend. Yet many execute it without a political statement in the

promote progress in all aspects of society.

back of their minds. The Scandinavian aesthetic with minimalistic

Androgyny dates back to the emancipation of Queen Elizabeth

tendencies is the one that is the most adapted style amongst the

I in the Tudor dynasty. At the time it was a symbol of freeing

high street shoppers. Women seem to wear loose fitting pants

the woman’s body from tight fitting and movement restricting

with slouchy sweaters and boxy jackets. All of which hide the

garments. Men’s garments being quite the opposite and

natural feminine shape. All in the name of fashion. However, one

therefore far more appealing to the female race at that point in

could say that the roots of the androgynous style at this point

time. A small cult following happened shortly after.

in time, stemming from Sweden, do indeed convey an original

Despite the natural differences in terms of the ones we are born

political statement. One that comes from their feminist society.

with, Swedish males and females are prone to function as easily

Those exact same loose fitting pats with slouchy sweaters, boxy

as the other. This results not only in the way they treat each other

jackets and the absence of painstakingly high heels are a form

but the effect can be witnessed within the sense of dress too.

of equality. One that they connect to judging a human being by its actions as opposed to its appearance. Eliminating the ability to seduce the counter gender through form fitting clothing and by that also giving themselves the freedom to move without the restriction of uncomfortable yet socially accepted female forms of dressing. Women in Sweden seem to have developed a new way of portraying their sexuality and confidence. One that doesn’t revolve around showing skin or the fluid forms of their bodies. It’s the type of sexuality and confidence that comes from their attitude and success in society. One that is communicated by a strong personality. The best part being that a woman can dress however she wants without being called names, bad or good. Without being harassed. Without being thought of as a being that ranks lower than their male counterpart. In conclusion, today we can thank the Swedish mentality for the overruling minimalistic androgyny which we can lovingly rename: Scandrogyny.

Text by SUZANNE VAN HEERDE Image courtsey of ADAM KATZ SINDING

SCANDROGYNY | GRADmagazine

37


An interview with

T BERT

38

GRADmagazine |


The of

Text by JARRON KAMPHORST

Photography by ESMAY WAGEMANS

Dutch rebel the

70s

Bert Zuiderveen was one of the ‘new style’ fashion designers for men in the late sixties, instead of driving the classic fashion highway paved by the big designers, he followed a completely new road. From a simple Dutch countryside boy he turned, within a couple of years, into one of the leading Dutch designers in the world of fashion. His love for the industry and his rebellion against the settled establishment made him part of the new avant-garde movement within the world of fashion. And still today he looks back with a certain kind of nostalgia. It is the minimalistic no nonsense approach of his work then, that defines him still nowadays.

| GRADmagazine

39


An interview with

When entering his apartment in the De Pijp district of

that invited mostly European designers to exhibit their

wanted Bert as a head designer to show them the latest

Amsterdam, the smell of coffee and cigarettes greets you

creations to the world. They had scouted Bert via the

trends. ‘I followed the latest trends via the fashion

at the doorstep. Bert is standing in the narrow kitchen;

Society Shop for whom he made a men’s collection of

magazines and my own network. That is how I kept

he is dressed all in black, in his right hand a smoking

trousers and jackets. The designs he made were very

myself up-to-date. My job, by now chief fashion editor

cigarette butt and in the other a cup of coffee. On the

strict: jackets with high closures and wide collars

at the Libelle, was also an advantage, I had access to all

radio a man talks about the weather forecast: cloudy

without lapels, to be worn over a turtleneck and

the major events as a ‘journalist’ and whilst doing my

with some periods of sunshine. While he is sitting on

completed with fancy trousers. In the time his designs

work I could see the latest trends and developments in

a metal trash can Bert tells about how he started his

were considered very “wild” and totally different from

the fashion world which helped me with my other job:

career in the fashion industry. It was during a sickbed of

the dowdy concepts manufactured by the established

designing.’

a few months that he started taking drawing classes. His

fashion designers. With his fresh look on fashion Bert

father decided to sign him up for the Academy for Arts

became part of the new Avant-garde and he started

With his work Bert became part of the ‘new school’

and Industry in Enschede, but was rejected. A year later

drawing attention. “Men fashion by the time was very

of the late sixties, early seventies. “We distinguished

Bert went again and he was accepted into the Academy

out-dated. Almost everything was the same”, recalls

ourselves from the ‘old’ classic fashion like Dior, Chanel

from which he graduated in 1966.

Bert.

etcetera. We tried to concentrate on normal people, stepping away from the haute couture. The focus was

“I was even asked by Yves Saint Laurent to come work for him. But I rejected the offer. I found his style of working to precise, too much ‘haute couture’.”

on the malleability of clothing; we were not splitting hairs but simply trying to make ‘wearable’ clothes. The shows were also different from how they used to be. Instead of the ‘salons with gold chairs and chandeliers’ we had simple catwalks, plain white chairs, even the mannequins were more curvaceous than the skinny models in the old-fashioned shows. It was a small

It was at the very same academy that he decided to

“And there it was, the big breakthrough I had been

revolution breaking away from the ancien régime and

become a designer: “I remember the moment very

aiming at when I first stood in the main hall at the

bringing a new, modern approach to fashion.

precisely, I walked into the main hall of the Academy

Academy. My collection was flown all over the world. To

building and I saw that one of my teachers had won a

Japan, Hong Kong, it was even shown in the Alhambra in

suit tailor contest. The only thing I could think of was

Spain.” He tells it with a very calm and sober attitude,

that I wanted that too and that I wanted it right away.”

every now and then he takes a puff of his fifth morning cigarette. His white hair lights up in the early spring

As all big careers, also this one, started with the typical

sunlight that shines through the kitchen window. “The

‘newspaper-delivery-boy-beginning’. Bert his first job was

floodgates were opened and my reputation as a designer

I was inspired by society. The designs I made were based

at a trousers factory in the south of the Netherlands: “It

skyrocketed in no time. I had loads of money and I was

on the current zeitgeist; I always tried to make clothes

was nothing special, just a kick-off to a bigger dream.”

surrounded by beautiful women.” In his eyes a light

for the ‘normal’ man. Haute Couture was something

After a while, however, the business went bankrupt and

melancholic glance appears when he talks about the

I thought of as conservative and old-fashioned. Not

the director told Bert to go talk to Dick Hendrikse the

time he dated Miss Europe and his ex-wife Virginia who

meant for me. I was more industry orientated so I made

former editor in chief of the Libelle magazine. Even

was a former Burberry model. The impression arises

collections for a.m. Macintosh (NL), Altmann (Austria),

tough he did not have any journalistic experience, he

that he lived life like a rock star back then.

Schiesser (Swiss) and Jockey (Europe, USA). This was

still decided to go and got a job as a fashion editor at

40

“Men fashion by the time was very out-dated. Almost everything was the same.”

a whole new view on fashion. I did not want to be

the magazine. “When I asked Hendrikse why he gave me

And indeed after the International Fashion Council Bert

associated with the old guys.” He stops his story for a

the job, he laughed at me and said that he just wanted

had the wind in his sails. ‘I remember the first time I

brief moment, smiles and than continues on a careless

a man between all the female hysteria in the editorial

got flown into Brussels. I had to do a presentation of

tone: “I was even asked by Yves Saint Laurent to come

office.” Bert started the job under one condition: the

one hour for a board of directors at the Avenue Louise

work for him. But I rejected the offer. I found his style of

freedom to work as a freelance designer outside of office

and afterwards I immediately had to get on the plane

working to precise, too much ‘haute couture’. They work

hours in order to achieve the goal that he had set after

back home. By the time I got there I had earned 10.000

as fusspots over there and as I said I was passionate

graduating.

Guilders.’ The big industry factories kept coming to

about the industry, simplicity and minimalism. But still

During this period Bert was already in contact with

him one after another. Bayer, DuPont, Amcel (American

I took it as a great compliment that he asked me. Of

the International Fashion Council, an annual event

Celanese), IWS (International Wool Secretariat), all

course.”

GRADmagazine |


| MYKROmagazine

31


An interview with

Bert photographed in his home in Amsterdam in the Pijp

42

MYKROmagazine |


“I always tried to make clothes for the ‘normal’ man. Haute Couture was something I thought of as conservative and old-fashioned. Not meant for me. ” In the meanwhile Bert’s daily life remained quite normal he says. “I lived in a fairly big apartment in Utrecht, I had a lot of designer stuff, I drove not only an Alpha Coupé GTV but also a Jaguar and I had all kinds of ‘fair trade’ trumpery.” Where normal begins and where it stops remains something particularly personal. “I had this weird obsession with compositions. Everything in my house had to be in a certain place and in a certain position; otherwise it did not feel right. The ashtray on the table, the lighter next to it, they all had to be in the composition I thought of.” When asked if he would consider himself a neurotic person he answers negatively. “I would call it obsessed by beauty. Not neurotic.” Even today this professional deformation is still present. “Some time ago my daughter-in-law came by and she pulled down the Luxaflex a bit. I told her not to do so because it disturbs the composition of the room.” He looks earnest. The coffee that is still in his left hand is cold.

Bert’s work as a chief fashion editor at the Libelle lasted for three years. The nine till five jobs, he says, he has always hated. He wants to control things by himself. “Business politics is something I despise; I cannot handle it to be bossed around. So three years is quite a long time if you take that into consideration.” He remembers a time when he was called into the office by his editor in chief who asked him why he tended to come in late for work. When Bert asked a little bit surprised how he would know that, he answered that the management had seen him roll in with his expensive car at ten o’clock several times. “I always stayed in late at the office, not to speak about the studio photography until the early hours, so sometimes I also got in late. Obviously. They were just jealous.” After a few years Bert left for Portugal for a period of twelve years to help the local ready-to-wear industry with the manufacturing of collections. When he came back to Holland he started a professional career in photography. “I was done with fashion and besides, my old network was long gone since I had not lived in Holland for over ten years. If I look back now I can only think of the good times I had back then.” But it is not nostalgia only that overwhelms him: “I also think of the ‘semi-intellectual’ nonsense people in the fashion forecast world blabber about. If I read fashion magazines today, I almost feel ashamed that I once was part of that world. The perky attitude and the arrogance that is inherent to a big part of the fashion world is something I cannot stand. Because, come on guys, it is only fashion we are talking about. There is more to life than that.”

| GRADmagazine

43


Image courtsey of the Gentlewoman - Kasia Bobula

The Grad Meeting

In honour of every new issue we want to celebrate and bring together every party contributing and making this issue even better then the one before. Our readers, contributors and the fashion world surrounding us make each issue a piece to collect. So why not have a drink and a chat all together? Register on our website to stay up to date for any future events.

44 GRADmagazine | The Mykro Meeting


GRAD X

Laura Romée Hersée illustrated a ‘gender free face’ by abstracting the eminent details that divide our face into a man or woman. Her strong lines emphasize the base that makes up a face: two eyes, two ears, a nose and a mouth. Available in different sizes online.

Buy your print online at GRADMAG.COM Online | GRADmagazine

45


Profile for Lisa Marie Sneijder

Grad Magazine - Lisa Marie Sneijder  

My graduation project for Amsterdam Fashion Institute in 2015. This magazine is a rebranding of a known fashion magazine. The original name...

Grad Magazine - Lisa Marie Sneijder  

My graduation project for Amsterdam Fashion Institute in 2015. This magazine is a rebranding of a known fashion magazine. The original name...

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