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BUSINE S S INTELLIGENCE FOR LINGERIE & SWIMWE AR PROFE S SIONAL S

MAY 2013 / VOL. 04 ISSUE 05 www.lingerieinsight.com

Maternal

instinct

How nursing bras have gone from functional to fabulous

FINISHING SCHOOL

The long history of Patricia of Finland

WEDDING MARCH

The most gorgeous bridal lingerie on the market

LOVELY IN LACE

Behind the scenes at Sophie Hallette

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FRONT 6

News review A round-up of this month’s lingerie and swimwear news

9

Industry voice Donna Allsop talks about the importance of fit models

6

16

THIS ISSUE 14

New launches We showcase the newest launches: Arabel and KS Paris

16

The personal touch Sharon Teasdale on her first year of being MD at Rigby & Peller

19

Legally Speaking A new monthly column by Tim O’Callaghan from Druces.

20

20

Ask Yourself This Claire Franks explores the Fifty Shades effect

22

Shooting from the hip Pistol Panties designer Deborah Fleming talks Topshop

24

Inspired by: Sophie Hallette We go behind the scenes at the French lacemakers

26

Making Marlies Designer Marlies Dekkers explains the secrets of her success

30

Finnish First The 100-year old lingerie brand on exploring its new global ambitions

36 40 44

46 48

22 26

30

Oh so pretty The specialist nursing bra sector has had a glamorous revamp Something new The latest trends in bridal lingerie for AW13 Trend focus: Rio Fashion Week The swimwear trends direct from the Rio runway

REGULARS 35

14

30

40

Object of Desire The high-end piece that has the industry talking. Celebrity watch What the stars are wearing at Coachella Socialite www.lingerieinsight.com / APRIL 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

3


COMMENT

The sun might be struggling here but in Brazil it’s a tropical paradise

W

hen we work with – and wear – lingerie every day, it’s easy to forget that it’s something that also accompanies us on our greatest life journeys, the highs and the lows, and the game-changing events. Someone who truly understands the importance of that is Sharon Teasdale, managing director of Rigby & Peller, who one year after taking over has come to understand the customer better than ever, through new shop launches and in-store innovations. As she says in our interview this month, Rigby & Peller is one of those shops that is somehow synonymous with occasions. You don’t just pop in: you book a fitting, you spend an hour there, and you buy lingerie for everything from weddings to births to proms and engagements. In this between-seasons month, we’ve taken her lead and sought out some of the best in bridal and maternity lingerie, from the most functional shapewear and nursing bras to delicately beribboned whisps of silk, lace and satin. We also speak to another woman who understands occasion, the celebrity favourite Marlies Dekkers, who this year celebrates two decades in lingerie, making unbelievably flattering pieces for everyone from Nicole Scherzinger to, well, you and me. Finally, to get us in the mood for the swimwear season, we went flying down to Rio (not literally, alas) where the catwalks were awash with bikinis and one-pieces. The sun might be struggling to shine here, but in Brazil it’s a tropical paradise. Enjoy!

BUSINE S S INTELLIGENCE FOR LINGERIE & SWIMWE AR PROFE S SIONAL S

ITP PROMEDIA PUBLISHING 16A Baldwins Gardens, London, EC1N 7RJ, UK Tel: +44 (0) 20 31 764228 Fax: +44 (0) 20 31 764231 EDITORIAL EDITOR Gemma Champ, gemma.champ@itppromedia.com ASSISTANT EDITOR Holly Rains, holly.rains@itppromedia.com

CONTRIBUTORS Michael Bloom, Claire Franks, Tim O’Callaghan COMMERCIAL SALES MANAGER Andrew Martyniuk, andrew.martyniuk@itp.com SALES EXECUTIVE Marianne Trotta, marianne. trotta@itppromedia.com STUDIO GROUP ART EDITOR Daniel Prescott, daniel.prescott@itp.com DESIGNED in conjunction with Tegra www.tegra.in DIGITAL CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER Hitendra Molleti, hitendra.molleti@itp.com ONLINE PRODUCTION Ernesto Ceralde, Rose Yorobe PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION GROUP PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION DIRECTOR Kyle Smith, kyle.smith@itp.com DATABASE MANAGEMENT Manju Sajeesh, manju.sajeesh@itp.com CIRCULATION

Gemma Champ

CIRCULATION CUSTOMER SERVICE +971 4 286 8559 Web: www.lingerieinsight.com

EDITOR, LINGERIE INSIGHT

Printed by: The MANSON Group Limited

MAY COVER Model wears:

Lorna Drew Moulded Bra Olivia Collection in Baby Pink, £32, Olivia Loveheart brief, £16

The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. The ownership of trademarks is acknowledged. No part of this publication or any part of the contents thereof may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publishers in writing. An exception is hereby granted for extracts used for the purpose of fair review. BUSINE S S INTELLIGENCE FOR LINGERIE & SWIMWE AR PROFE S SIONAL S

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LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk


NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

NEWS IN BRIEF

6

NEWS IN QUOTE S

7

VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY SPE AKERS’ CORNER

THIS MONTH IN LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR

WEB HIGHLIGHTS

10 11

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW: JEFF BANKS TO LAUNCH PINK PANTS FOR BREAST CANCER CAMPAIGN

T

he menswear fashion designer Jeff Banks will this month launch a men’s underpant in bright pink, at Debenhams, in support of the department store’s breast cancer charity trust. Banks said the aim was to engage men in fundraising for research into breast cancer, an

idea he came up with after discussing with Prima magazine’s editor, Maire Fahey, the fact that most breast cancer fundraising campaigns are targeted at women and ignore men. “It’s a shame that men don’t get involved in that activity, because the pressure that is put on the family when

anybody suffers with breast cancer acts on the whole family – husband, children, parents and so on,” he said. “It’s not just a women’s issue; it’s a family issue.” Banks came up with the idea of pink pants as a way to get men involved in the charities, saying that it is a product that can appeal to

both men and women, while offering a consumer something tangible in exchange for the charitable donation. “What could I do that would be good fun, very usable and not expensive?” said Banks. “With charity giving these days, the demand on the public is massive. So if you can story continued on page 7

FOR IMAGES OF THE AW13 COLLECTIONS AND DAILY BREAKING NEWS VISIT www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

5


FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

Janie Schaffer, head of lingerie

and beauty at Marks & Spencer, quit after three months into the job. The news came after the store released its Q4 2012/13 trading report which showed that the high-street-giant had seen clothing sales fall for the seventh consecutive quarter. Dubbed “the queen of knickers”, Schaffer, who founded the Knickerbox chain in the 80s, joined the Marks & Spencer team from Victoria’s Secret. Her appointment signalled a positive change in direction at M&S, but it emerged that she resigned in mid-April. Schaffer had replaced Frances Russell, who was promoted to director of womenswear after joining the company from Arcadia four years ago. It is reported that prior to her exit, Schaffer had planned to unveil the first new ranges in the AW13 collection which were due to be launched next month. A Marks & Spencer spokeswoman confirmed Schaffer’s departure. A study by a French scientist claiming that bras “are not needed” caused controversy on the web. Professor Jean-Denis Rouillon, a sports scientist from the University of Franche-Comte in Besancon, spent 15 years studying 330 French women with varying bust sizes. He claimed that from his research, wearing 6

and a basic assortment of everyday socks for both sports retailers and wholesale distributors. The long, cold winter had a significant effect on underlying fashion sales, according to figures released by the accountancy firm BDA. The firm’s monthly High Street Sales Tracker revealed that while gift sales were boosted by 7.3%, partly thanks to a Mother’s Day surge, and homewares also saw an increase, of 2.2%, sales of fashion items were down 3.4%.The report blamed this on the arrival of spring collections during the second coldest March on record, making current stock completely unsuited to the weather. Theo Paphitis announced the launch of his eighteenth UK Boux Avenue lingerie store in Leeds, which opened at the White Rose Shopping Centre, Leeds on April 23, 2013. Available to buy in store is the new Boux Avenue collection, which has a focus on femininity for the new season. The collection includes pretty florals

Luxury swimwear label Olga Olsson announced it will be

showing its pre-SS14 collection at Mode City, Paris, for the first time

this July. The London-based brand, which was created in 2010, has already amassed a strong celebrity following, with both Kate Moss and Elle Macpherson being fans of the swimwear. Dobotex and Head Sport GmbH, a leading global manufacturer and marketer of sports equipment, signed a licensing contract for socks and underwear that will come into effect next January. The agreement covers the European region and will see Dobotex and Head develop a collection of ski socks and performance underwear as well as Head’s iconic Tennis socks

LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.com

“I started Fashion Forms with a backless, strapless, adhesive bra in 1993. It was a resounding success and the brand soon became a favourite of major department stores and boutiques across America. “Based on the success of the brand in the US, in 2008 I decided to launch in the UK with Selfridges, and our growth has been tremendous. What better way to celebrate this success than to give back to the community of which I am a part. For this reason, it is a great honour to sponsor the Contour Ball.” The 7th edition of Interfiliere ended on a positive note, with the post-show report documenting a 5% increase in overseas visitors, with 3,200 industry visitors from 45 countries attending the show. 170 international exhibitors attended the trade show, with the brands covering the full spectrum of the intimate apparel sector, showcasing fabrics, accessories, lace, embroidery, textile design and new technology. The show saw a high international attendance on day one, which reaffirmed the importance of Hong Kong as a centre for intimates and swimwear. Despite a 4% decrease in the overall attendance over the two days, the trade show maintained its quality in both exhibitors and visitors. 60% of the visitors were major buyers including CEOs, managing directors and heads of purchasing.

seen in the Chantal Plunge Bra and Brief and oriental-inspired details featured in the Lyla Balconette Bra. The Contour Fashion Ball

announced its headline sponsor for the 2013 edition is innovative bra accessory brand Fashion Forms. Founder and CEO of Fashion Forms Ann Deal said:

GETTY IMAGES

NEWS REVIEW

bras may cause harm to women’s figures. The study consisted of the scientist instructing the women to not wear a bra for a specific amount of time, spanning from a few months to several years. He explained that though 42% of the women who took part in the study “felt discomfort” for the first three months, this then disappeared. According to Rouillon, none of the women were in actual pain and could take part in sporting activities unhampered, and continued to say that “contrary to popular belief, the breast does not fall, but tightens and lifts, and the quality of the skin improves.”


NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY

story continued from page 5

actually buy a piece of product that’s worth the money, but it goes to a good cause, it ticks the boxes.” Banks felt that the element of fun attached to the product would help men get over any qualms about buying pink pants. “I just thought, what is it that would be a great item that either men could buy and sport at the gym or the rugby changing room to show that they’re actually supporting the cause; or alternatively that women could buy as presents for husbands, sons, lovers, fathers, to get them involved by giving them the package that explains what the cause is and that they’ve made a contribution so that the men can actually sport their support?” Banks approached Michael Sharp, the chief executive of Debenhams, to ask him to retail the product, giving 100% of the profits to breast cancer charities. Sharp quickly agreed. “This year, by coincidence, Debenhams were starting a charity trust called Think Pink and they were trying to come up with ideas as a massive retailer as to how they could actually raise money throughout the year with their Think Pink trust, so it dovetailed exactly with their thinking as a company,” said Banks. The next step was to produce the pants, and Banks asked the manufacturer of his existing underwear line, Osan Ltd, to produce the pants for cost price, including packaging. “With not a lot of arm-twisting, they jumped at the chance,” said Banks. “They’ll produce it, package it, produce the vending display units, all at cost, without them taking any profit.” Of the £10 retail price, all the profit, approximately £5 a pair, will go to the Think Pink initiative, which supports three breast cancer charities: Breakthrough Breast Cancer, Breast Cancer Campaign and Pink Ribbon Foundation. “Debenhams are fantastic at this,” said Banks. “They genuinely barcode everything that doesn’t go through their mainstream financial costs; they barcode those charitable products so it goes straight into the trust and doesn’t have any profit attached to it.” The pants are modelled by Select’s footballer-turned-model Jay Conroy, who donated his time for the cause and will appear on the front of the packaging, photographed by Eamonn McCabe, who also worked for free. Conroy will launch the initiative at Debenhams on May 20, dressed only in the pants. Other marketing initiatives include persuading celebrities to be photographed wearing the pants. “We have a hit list of celebrities that we want to support the project,” said Banks. “I can’t tell you who they are, but I have a list of 12 categories of men – racing car driver, racing cyclist, footballer, actor, DJ, presenter, and so on – and my hope is that once we photograph the 12 we will also create a Christmas calendar that Prima readers can buy as a Christmas present.” Prima will also run a competition for readers to send in photos of their partners wearing the pink pants, with the prize of a Caribbean Holiday for a week, with Virgin Holidays. Banks, however, has no plans to appear in public in the pink pants – unless the price is right. “I didn’t want to scare consumers away,” he joked. “But if any organisation was to put up enough money for me to do that, I would certainly do it. If there was anybody out there, Philip Green or anyone, who was willing to challenge me to a picture and come up with the dough, I’d be there.”

Fit Model Focus

DONNA ALLSOP, agent, Fittings Division Model Management f you work in manufacturing

I

toned body, natural breasts and

or design, you’ll know that a fit

average height are essential for a

model is a person who is used

good lingerie fit, and good posture is

by a manufacturer to check the fit

also a must. Contrary to belief, though,

and visual appearance of a garment.

not all lingerie models are super

They are effectively acting as live

skinny: each brand has its own

mannequins for design.

requirement and standards for fit

But beyond merely wearing

models. Good, well-proportioned

the garment, a fitting model can

curves are incredibly important for

become an integral role in the design

lingerie, whether you are a size six

process commenting on all materials

or 24, ad 30A or a 42H. in fact our

with regards to fit, movement, feel

best lingerie models cover a

on flesh, and offer objective feedback

multitude of sizes.

on the ‘fit’ and design. It’s a really important part of the

The most challenging part of being a good lingerie fit model is that you

process, and at Fittings Division we

must consistently maintain your

measure on a regular basis hundreds

weight. You also need to be very

of existing fit models, as well as

confident in your own skin: it’s not

potential new fit models, so that we

easy standing in your underwear for

always have a full size range of both

hours on end. Personality is equally

female and male models available

important. The model may fit ready-

to meet every fit requirement.

to-wear pieces or the designers may

We work with some of the world’s

cut their patterns around the shape

leading lingerie brands, including

of the fit model. He or she may be

Agent Provocateur, Ann Summers,

asked to walk and move around and

Debenhams and many others. It is

give constructive criticism. An ill-fitting

our job to supply our clients with

garment can lead to disappointing

their perfect fit model.

sales in stores and so the fit model’s

But what exactly is it that makes a good lingerie fit model? Obviously a well-proportioned,

opinion is vital throughout the entire design process. ww.fittingsdivision.co.uk

www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

7


FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

Lingerie giants Triumph announced that they are to take a ‘creative break’ from the annual Triumph Inspiration Awards. The TIA’s, an annual contest that challenges design students to create a lingerie showpiece from a changing theme, was introduced in 2008, and has since become a platform to support and launch up-and-coming intimate apparel designers. A statement on the brand’s website explained that after five years of being the industry’s leading lingerie design award, the TIA’s have made the decision to take a creative break in order for them, like other creative concepts, to stay relevant over time. The statement also confirmed that they will continue to support young design talents globally, sharing both their business insight and wealth of experience.

Ann Summers reported a 25% boost in couples sex toy sales over the recent bout of cold weather, with the brand attributing the success to the unseasonal weather making couples staying indoors. Gilda & Pearl reported a successful quarter, securing a number of new international and regional stockists including Le Charme de Fifi et Fafa in Tokyo and Petits Bisous in London.The brand has also continued to work with North American stockists such as BHLDN and global e-tailer Asos. To cater for the rise in international interest, the brand will launch an update to the gildapearl.co.uk website later this month, adding new functionalities which will accommodate the growing customer base. Founder and managing director Diane Houston has also been named as a finalist for the PTYBS (Princes Trust Youth Business Scotland) Director of the Year Award.

FIRST STITCH

CELEBRATING EMERGING TALENT Recent Esmod University fashion school graduate Paloma Casile is already making waves with her exquisite lingerie. Having already completed internships with industry stalwarts such as Chantal Thomass, Alice Cadolle and Cadolle Diff usion, Casile has used this experience to carve out a niche in the world of intimate apparel. Her first collection was presented at the Paris International lingerie fair in January and will be out from July in a selection of online stores in Europe and the US, a move only made possible after Casile won the lingerie prize in the Young Creative Contest in Dinard last year, which gave her the

springboard she needed to create the brand. The AW13 collection focuses strongly on the theme of seduction, with Casile working solely in black with pretty laces from Calais and silk from Lyon to create a instantly wearable yet wholly seductive line.

>> Are you a student or recent graduate and want to be featured in First Stitch? Email info@lingerieinsight.com

STORE ENVY

PETITS BISOUS, 187 King’s Road, London Housed on the King’s Road,

5- 7pm were reserved for mistresses

Affintas & Parfait appointed

Petits Bisous describes itself as

to entertain their lovers. These

Susana Chauhan as its new sales

London’s first luxury lingerie styling

experiences include invitation-

agent for London and the South East & West of England regions. Commenting on the brand Chauhan said: “Affinitas & Parfait have created two strong fashionconscious collections with great bra options, babydolls, camisoles and corsets. They offer smaller back sizes for both small and large cups, great fit, and incredibly competitive pricing.”

experience, offering both walk-in

only events, including exclusive

retail and personal lingerie styling

fashion shows and guest speakers

appointments. A shop of many

drawn from fashion, design and

guises, the luxuriously-designed

literature. For clients who can’t wait

store also features ‘Cinq à Sept’

to show off their latest purchases, an

experiences, the idea coming from

exposition privée is also available to treat their partner to a sneak peek. www.petitsbisous.com.

8

LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.com

the Parisian Belle Époque, when it was understood that the hours of

>> Got a Store Envy suggestion? Email: info@lingerieinsight.com

GETTY, COURTESY LASKOWSKA, COURTESY FREYA, COURTESY H&M, COURTESY MCGRATH O’TOOLE

NEWS REVIEW

She also spoke of the brand’s insightful understanding of the UK marketplace stating: “Affinitas & Parfait understands what the UK stockists need in this climate and have no minimum orders across the board. This helps boutiques and independents manage their cash flow and get money in the tills so buyers are not required to take big risks on new collections.”


NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

TALES OF THE UNEXPECTED GLITCH

NEWS IN QUOTES

#1: The cart before the horse MICHAEL BLOOM, of specialist stock management company Top to Toe, offers a regular quirky look at the difference technology can make to your business. arter Lingerie was a fairly

C

wanted to buy. Now she had a potential

traditional lingerie retail

market of millions and she began to

business. It had struggled

think maybe the web shop was going

with the “to web or not to web” issue

to make a lot of money – after all, it

for some time before deciding a

worked for so many others.

website was inevitable. Clients had

But Mrs Equus was still something

been asking for the web address, and

of a problem. Mrs Carter began to

people on the phone had said they

think she was dragging her feet. True

would purchase if only there was a

Mrs Equus was working the extra

website. It was an unavoidable reality

hours they had agreed, but very little

“I’ve always liked H&M’s focus on fun and affordable fashion. I really loved the concept we collaborated on to explore the different emotions of women represented by the four elements – fire, water, earth and wind. It was a beautiful shoot on a tropical island. It felt more like making a video than a commercial,”

that they were losing business without

seemed to be happening on the web

one. Mrs Carter accepted that it was a

site. An extra hour a day was probably

move they had to make.

costing around £60 per week but

previous work she liked; she was even

was only following instructions: she had

BEYONCÉ on her first collobaiton with high street-giants H&M

fortunate enough to have Mrs Equus,

put on 10 camisoles. But as each style

for its summer collection.

a part-time employee, who was very

of camisole came in 10 sizes and four

comfortable with computers. Now

colours, she had to go to the site and

“I started Fashion Forms with a backless, strapless, adhesive bra in 1993. It was a resounding success and the brand soon became a favourite of major department stores and boutiques across America. Based on the success of the brand in the US, in 2008 I decided to launch in the UK with Selfridges, and our growth has been tremendous. What better way to celebrate this success than to give back to the community of which I am a part. For this reason, it is a great honour to sponsor the Contour Ball.”

she would enter the internet age.

create 40 products per style. For 10

Things went a bit slower than she

camisoles she had had to make 400

anticipated with the web company,

different size/colour combinations.

Mrs Carter swung into action and found a local web company whose

but overall she was happy; the only

there were still so few products online. When tackled, Mrs Equus said she

One week’s work for 10 camisoles

person who did not seem happy was

was obviously not going to get Mrs

Mrs Equus, who kept being difficult

Carter very far, or very fast, so she

about the whole project.

decided to up her game. She paid Mrs

Mrs Carter understood her point:

Equus £120 per week to work for two

the key requirement for selling on the

hours per day inputting stock into the

web was that you knew you could

web site. This would halve the time it

Ann Deal, founder and CEO of Fashion Forms on the announcement that the

supply what your web customers

would take before she had a good

brand will be the headline sponsor of the Contour Fashion Ball in May.

bought, whereas at Carter Lingerie

variety of merchandise on her web

they had a vast range but detailed

site. Mrs Equis got started on the bras.

“The first results validate the hypothesis that the bra is not needed. Medically, physiologically, anatomically, the breast does not benefit from being deprived of gravity.”

information on sizes, colours and fit

As with camisoles, each bra came

availability was something of a hit-and-

in 10 sizes and four colours – but also

miss affair. The point, however, was

eight cup sizes, so one bra by itself

not to get it perfect but to get the site

was 320 size/colour combinations. So

PROFESSOR JEAN-DENIS ROUILLON explaining the results of his

up and running. After all, they had

one bra took the time it had previously

controversial study in which he claims bra’s aren’t necessary.

managed for many years as they

taken for eight camisoles. Mrs Equus

were and no doubt would be able

could only create one or two bras per

“April sees Boux Avenue celebrate its second successful trading year. I am excited to announce our first opening of 2013 is at the White Rose Shopping Centre, Leeds. Leeds is a fantastic city and we feel the perfect home for our next Boux Avenue store.”

to manage that way for many more.

week on the web site and Mrs Carter

They had fallen behind for too long;

began to see that this was going to be

now it was important to make up the

a very. Mrs Equus had a certain “I told

ground as quickly as possible.

you so” glint in her eye.

THEO PAPHITIS, owner of Boux Avenue, speaking about the

looked great. In fact she began to get

making multiple sizes, colours and fits

launch of his new Leeds store.

excited since she knew, from her own

very easily and very quickly.

So Mrs Carter ploughed on and eventually the site was ready, and it

Horse sense: to utilise modern technology it’s critical to have a way of

first-hand experience in the shop, that

>> Something to say? Email info@lingerieinsight.com

once a client saw her product range

Contact Top to Toe on 0845 130

they very often found something they

3535 or info@toptotoe.com

www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

9


FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

DIARY DATES

SPEAKERS’ CORNER

8 May, The Savoy Hotel, London, The Contour Fashion Ball

Looking to build on its success, The Contour Fashion Ball 2013 will again raise funds in aid of the Retail Trust (www. retailtrust.org.uk) and Fashion and Textile Children’s Trust (www.ftct.org.uk).

HANNAH BARLEY boutique manager, What Katie Did

RUTH ROSS general manager of marketing, Ann Summers

MERCEDES LEE director, Prohibido Lingerie

HAS THE COLD WEATHER AFFECTED TRADING?

“In store we haven’t noticed a

“During this latest bout of unseasonal

“We always see a slow-down in

decrease in sales that can be

frosty weather, we have noticed a rise

the winter months after the rush of

6-8 July, Pavilion 1, Paris Expo,

attributed to the weather. It appears

in people staying indoors and raising

Christmas and January spending.

Porte de Versailles, Paris

that our customers want beautiful

the temperature between the sheets,

Let’s face it, we humans like to be

Mode City

lingerie at all times of the year. In fact,

instead of braving the outdoors. We

warm and cosy rather than cold,

Boosted by a successful show last summer, Mode City is back and even bigger for its SS14 season. Acting as a meeting point for international lingerie and swimwear professionals, the event is a huge platform for brands and buyers alike. Expect catwalk shows, trend news and hundreds of new and established lingerie and swimwear brands.

possibly more so, as what could be

have seen a surge in couples’ sex-toy

windswept and worst of all, wet!

better than at least knowing you

sales, with sales up by 25% from this

During these months we turn to

can wear pretty under-garments,

time last year, which reveals that

events and social media to attract

irrespective of how many layers you

couples are favouring intimate nights

new customers and encourage

are wearing! We also had a swimwear

in, experimenting together. These

existing customers to get out and

sale in March which went very well.

sales suggest couples are investing

about and support local independent

It’s that great British optimism that we

their money in premium sex toys from

stores. In hindsight I think the weather

WILL eventually have a summer!

our online Pleasure Emporium, which

can only hold people back for so

Also as a global company, who retail

offers customers a selection of our

long as we had a hugely successful

online as well, cold weather does not

own original ranges, as well as a wide

day in March when snow lay around

affect these sales..”

variety of luxurious sex toys from an

and the temperature was well

extensive handpicked selection of

below freezing!”

independent sex toy brands. ”

21-23 July , Radisson Blu Portman Hotel,

NEWS FLASH

London Swimwear Show

The show brings together a range of well-known swimwear brands in London’s only dedicated swimwear exhibition. Brands showing their new collections include Freya, Huit and La Perla, and will be joined by London Swimwear Show newbies including Mimi Holliday, Sumarie and Panache.

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Fleur of England has relaunched its website fleurofengland.com. The For more new site has been designed to news visit reflect the luxury aspect of the www.lingerie lingerie brand as well as create a insight.com unique buying experience which offers increased help on lingerie sizing and gift finding. “The site has been redesigned to reflect the successful global reach of our luxury company and its customers,” says CEO and creative director Fleur Turner. “The new site has been completely rebuilt around our customer’s requirements. Our lingerie is luxurious, sophisticated, elegant and fits beautifully, making it ultra comfortable, and we wanted to create a website that showcase all of these values.” The site is also optimised for tablet and mobile browsing and transactions.

LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.com


NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

MOST READ ONLINE

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EDITOR’S CHOICE

Marks & Spencer’s lingerie director quits IN PICS: Beyoncé H&M summer collection

COLLECTION

VIDEO

French scientist claims bras make breasts sag

Sporty by Princesse tam.tam

Coco de Mer Siren collection

The line combines fashion-forward designs with innovative materials.

Behind the scenes on the luxury label’s SS13 lingerie campaign.

NEWS

INSPIRATION

Affinitas & Parfait appoints new sales agent

Calzedonia swimwear catwalk

The luxury lingerie brand appointed Susana Chauhan as its new sales agent.

The catwalk was held to celebrate its Summer 2013 swim collection.

The Holiday Boutique launches bespoke bikinis Ann Summers report sex-toy boost IN PICS: Behind the scenes Star in a Bra shoot Making a splash: Caprice Bourret The Contour Fashion Ball confirms sponsorship VIDEO: Gregg Homme One. Night. Stand Marks & Spencer suffers drop in clothing sales

LINGERIE TWEETS Fact: There e are more lingerie brands

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www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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Nominations opening soon

To enquire about sponsorship opportunities or book tickets please contact: Marianne .Trotta@itppromedia.com

Andrew.martyniuk@itppromedia.com Marianne.trotta@itppromedia.com


BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS What’s happening right now in lingerie, from new labels to marketing ideas

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The latest brands aiming to make waves in intimates

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Sharon Teasdale on her first year as MD at Rigby & Peller

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Legal eagle Tim O’Callaghan Fifty shades of Claire Franks

COURTESY PATRICIA OF FINLAND

Deborah Fleming shoots for the top Lovely in lace at Sophie Hallette Twenty years of Marlies Dekkers

The heritage of Patricia of Finland


d n a Br

NEW WE TAKE A LOOK AT THE NEW BRANDS ON THE MARKET THIS MONTH.

Arabel

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n the world of intimate apparel, the sector for brands catering for fuller busts is ever growing, yet it can sometimes feel that the small-busted lingerie market has stalled. After sensing a gap in the market for a lingerie brand that catered for a range of sizes, including small busts, Sarah Lister was prompted to create her new label Arabel in 2012. In contrast to the current bondage trend in both womenswear and lingerie, Lister’s designs are ethereal, featuring delicate lace, vibrant colours and oversized bows, which run throughout the collection creating an appealingly flirty and feminine aesthetic. The pieces are handmade to order by Lister, giving each garment a bespoke feel. The decision to use animal-friendly satin in place of silk was a no-brainer for Lister, who wanted her label to be both UK-made and easy to care for but also wholly vegetarian meaning that only animal-free fabrics are used in the manufacturing process resulting in silk-, leather- and fur-free lingerie. Lister explains “As I have been a vegetarian for 12 years I decided to make Arabel an animal-friendly brand and avoid the use of silk in my designs. I don’t think lingerie needs to be made of silk these days to be considered luxury as there are so many exquisite laces and satins available and the design and craftsmanship are just as important as the materials. In the future I plan to introduce a peace silk bridal range and switch to organic cotton to make my designs more environmentally friendly.” Although Arabel only started trading last November the brand has already developed a growing fan base. After showcasing her soft bra and camidolls for the first time at a trunk sale held at the Paolita & Kiss Me Deadly boutique at the beginning of the month, the new underwired styles are soon to follow. www.arabel.co.uk


NEW LAUNCHES / BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS

KS Paris

PHOTOGRAPH BY JULIAN M KILSBY

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here better to launch your debut lingerie line than at the Paris’s Salon International de la Lingerie? Something that new lingerie brand KS Paris took advantage of, launching its debut AW13 collection at the trade show last January. Conceived by designer Cécile Mattray, the brand has been strongly influenced by the sensuality and eroticism that are central to the aesthetic of Japanese manga, which is a theme that runs throughout the collection. The lingerie combines hints of naughtiness with sensual details, and trims of feminine silk, ribbons and Leavers lace give way to imitation leather and strong lines that takes elements from traditional Japanese culture and fuse it with modern design touches. The debut collection revolves around four key themes, each showing a different facet of Japanese culture. The “Shibuya” collection, named after the trendy district in Tokyo, is a fashionforward line made up of imitation leather and lace, with the “Maid” collection being equally titillating, consisting of lingerie crafted entirely from Calais lace. In contrast to the seductive elements of these themes is the “Hasu” collection: inspired by the lotus flower, the lingerie includes high-waisted pants and veiled bras, is a sensual mix of silk satin and lace and works in tandem with the “Yume” night line, featuring a range of richlycoloured gowns, shorts and tops. With the first collection completed, the brand is looking towards SS14, with a unique lingerie line cut from kimonos imported exclusively from Japan to continue the fusion between Japanese design and French lingerie expertise. www.ksparis.com www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS / THE EXPERT VIEW

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l a n o s r e p T he

touch

A YEAR AFTER TAKING ON THE ROLE OF MD AT RIGBY & PELLER, GEMMA CHAMP TALKS TO SHARON TEASDALE ABOUT FITTING, STYLING AND MACHU PICCHU

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he’s not one to sit back and let life pass by, Sharon Teasdale. You’d think being MD at Rigby & Peller at one of its most transformational moments would be hard work enough, but when we meet up in Conduit Street, Teasdale is preoccupied with her training (or lack of it) for a charity trek up to Machu Picchu for the children’s charity Compassion UK, for which she’s been an advocate for 10 years. She’s got till October, and the target of £4,000 to fundraise is one thing: it’s the level of fitness she’s fretting about. Pointedly, she’s not fretting about Rigby & Peller, which is in a pretty good place, thank you very much, with 13 international shops opening in the last year, and the average customer age dropping by around a decade. “You have to throw your mind and body and soul into what you’re doing, but sometimes leaders lose 16

themselves, they lose their life focus, because they’re so focused on that company,” she says. “You’ve got to think about what’s going on in the world, which can impact your business. You’re no good to anyone if you’re stressed out. It’s about balance.” That’s a balance that seems to have been perfectly struck during her first year as MD - a milestone that had barely occurred to her, she says. “Should there have been some landmark thing?” she asks. “Well reflecting back and thinking what has this year meant, I’m particularly proud of the fact that we’ve opened two new stores, in Guilford, Surrey, and in the City.” The Guilford opening said a lot about Rigby & Peller as a brand and about its clientele, the retailer suddenly finding hordes of lapsed customers residing in affluent Surrey, all delighted to see the store’s arrival in their recession-busting market town.

LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

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THE EXPERT VIEW / BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS

“The actual opening event was fantastic, “ says Teasdale, “and customers were coming in who knew Rigby & Peller, had visited before; these were lapsed from five years plus, yet they still remembered the brand, they still wanted to come again, they still believed in the service we’re offering. “For me, it was a bit of an ‘aha’ moment, in the sense that sometimes, especially when you’re a destination store, you make an assumption that people are going to just come to you, but you think about the growth in Surrey in the last 20-30 years? You’ve got to be conscious of what’s going on in other markets, where those customers are going, and thinking about attracting them back.” What attracts the customers is no secret: apart from the word-ofmouth cachet of the lingerie store that holds a Royal Warrant, it’s all about the service, and to get there Teasdale has made Rigby & Peller all about the staff. The recruitment process is rigorous, starting with a personality assessment, but the results in terms of staff turnover are telling: a 93% staff retention is a figure most retailers could only dream of. “The recruitment process may feel very protracted, and we sometimes lose people who’ve applied to us but are not prepared to commit. They’re used to in retail having maybe one interview and they’ve got the job offer. For us it’s first a personality specification interview,

“There’s always going to be local differences. We’re not a cookie-cutter company” conscious and knows that she’s got because the personality is so to wear the right lingerie for the right important, and not everyone has got product,” she says. “You look at the the right personality. Some people are way the fabrication and shaping of the type of people who can be on the outerwear has developed... well you’ve shop floor, can meet, greet, can sell a got to have the right underwear for product, but actually are they prepared those pieces, so the whole styling thing, for the intimacy with that customer?” it comes from observing what goes on. Even when those staff have been The customers will bring clothes carefully selected - and when there and put them on after they’ve are only 90 in the whole company been fitted to see and feel that it is indeed a tight selection - the difference, so for me it’s about training is intensive, and in return actually there’s something the company’s people get here about styling.” the sort of recognition There’s a strong and treatment commercial imperative that is textbook too: “If a lady’s coming motivational practice. in to be fitted, that’s Even something as one bra. If they’re simple as changing the coming in to be styled title of the women on 3 suddenly you’re talking the shopfloor from the about, ‘Well, for that simple “fitter” to outfit I need a full cup, “lingerie stylist” has for that I need a half-cup, been an important move I need a plunge, I need a for Teasdale, and, she says, sports bra...’ That is a good is less to do with title inflation business model, because you’ve than with the need to accurately then got continuation of need.” reflect the jobs that her people It’s not just the lingerie stylists that do – and increasing their drive are affected: the store managers, too, at the same time. are given responsibility beyond the “When we talk about fitting, that’s management of a branch of a shop. still what we offer, but actually a “Each of our store managers is woman today is so much more

1 Sharon Teasdale 2 Rigby & Peller Mae bikini 3 Simone Perèle Amour set in Iced Mocha 4 The Conduit St branch of Rigby & Peller 5 Marie-Jo “Jane” set in Melba

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www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS / THE EXPERT VIEW

treated like a business woman. So we have regular business meetings with the store managers. We want the store managers to think of those boutiques as their own stores. Clearly we’ve got some brand direction and expectations, but you’d expect that if you had your own business, but it’s actually supporting those store managers to think as business women and develop in that area. That retains good people, because managers aren’t thinking about their next career move. They’re thinking this is my business; I’ve got so much to learn. And we’ve been involving our store managers and staff in PR and marketing a bit more. That is very different from other retailers where you’re stereotyped, pigeonholed, and with 90 employees we can do that.” It’s a difficult path for Teasdale, with so many people to please: the company’s owner, Van de Velde, which bought 87% of Rigby & Peller in 2011; the long-standing staff whose satisfaction is inevitably reflected in their service; the customer, who so often feels a personal relationship with the shop and its people; and, of course, the company’s revered matriarch June Kenton? So far, though, in spite of the fairly seismic changes that Rigby & Peller has undergone in the last year, things are looking pretty good all round. The 18

takeover by Van de Velde hasn’t made the company into some huge monolith that requires identical branding and training from store to store, and for Teasdale this variety is part of Rigby & Peller’s strength. “There are always going to be local differences,” she syas. “We’re not a cookie cutter company, even across the UK. If you go to Conduit Street and to King’s Road, the feel will be very different because the customer is very different. I’m happy having an eclectic mix across the estate, responding to local need. We’ll have customers who’ll go to our King’s Road store and wouldn’t dream of going to Knightsbridge even though it’s just round the corner.” For the staff, too, traditionally a source of resistance and disgruntlement when a company shake-up goes wrong, things are running along very nicely, creating a continuity that keeps customers very happy. “My most mature lingerie stylist is over 70 years old and has been in the company for 40 years, and she is fit as a fiddle, no plans on retiring, and she still has people phoning in and wanting specifically to see her,” says Teasdale. “Where else in retail are you getting this tacit knowledge to pass on? “That’s why it feels as if the brand is so much bigger than it is - it’s grown by

LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

word of mouth, and you can’t get a more productive marketing campaign than word of mouth.” Another formidable septuagenarian is June Kenton, the shop’s founder, who is still thoroughly involved in supporting the business. “June is involved for two reasons: from a PR perspective, but also as an amazing mentor to me. We’re constantly on the phone together. She’s the best in the business, and it’s almost like having her as a personal coach. For her it was her baby for so many years, it was her wanting to ensure that the right person inherits that. She’s the busiest seventysomething I know, and at the drop of a hat she’s involved.” It’s that mixture of passion and personality that has kept Rigby & Peller in the minds and hearts of customers for so long, and Teasdale is determined to make sure that this sense of occasion is maintained for every visitor to the shop. “Every experience the customer has is an event,” she says. “It might be the first time they’ve been properly fitted for a bra, they’ve met a man, they’re having a baby, they’re getting married... You have your prom night, you go to Rigby & Peller; you get engaged, you go to Rigby & Peller; you get married, you go to Rigby & Peller...” That’s quite a legacy to guard..”


THE EXPERT VIEW / BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS

Legally speaking TIM O’CALLAGHAN IS A PARTNER IN DRUCES LLP, SPECIALISING IN ADVICE TO FASHION AND LUXURY GOODS BUSINESSES. IN THIS MONTH’S COLUMN, HE LOOKS AT DESIGN COPYRIGHT ISSUES

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s any readers who have worked in the design departments of large high-street retailers will know, there are many “designers” who seem to share Einstein’s “theory of creativity” – “the secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources”. There are even some whose design process goes something like this: work out which new intimate apparel brand is doing well, find out which of that brand’s pieces are selling most, order one, send it to the factory to be copied, having first directed the factory to make some rudimentary adjustments. Copying in the fashion industry is, along with death and taxes, one of life’s certitudes and while some designers may derive a frisson of satisfaction from the experience of being copied for the first time, that warm glow soon disappears with the thought of the sales revenue the copier will be enjoying from the creative work of the designer. But what can be done to protect your designs from copying? Lingerie designers are increasingly relying on their legal rights, and specifically design right protection, to stand up to the copiers. Marlies Dekkers won its well-publicised court action against Sapph, who had been selling bras with straps over the cups (Marlies Dekkers’ signature feature). Sapph’s loss resulted in its being banned from selling similar bras, it having to hand over existing infringing stock and to pay an undisclosed sum to Marlies/Dekkers. A great success for the creator of what, in the Judge’s view, constituted a distinctive design feature. Meanwhile in the US, followers of formwear have been entertained by the long-running and acrimonious “Girdlegate”: the court battle over copying between the Titans of tummy suppression, Spanx and Yummie Tummie. Protecting your designs Prior to the advent of European design protection in its various forms, designers would generally rely on copyright infringement as the only possible claim. This limited the scope of any claim they could bring: it is something of a blunt instrument and in intimate apparel, it only really affords protection to unique prints, patterns and

drawings from which the design is created. If a competitor made and sold an exact copy of your uniquely appointed brassiere, the law of copyright is likely to be as much use to you as a pair of Spanx to an underwear model. A far more effective weapon is design right protection, something that, in my experience, few designers know a great deal about and even fewer (until recently) have taken advantage of. So what form does design right protection take? You may rely on one or more of the following: UK unregistered design rights; unregistered Community design right; UK registered design; registered designs at European Community level. The first two forms of right, the unregistered rights, exist automatically in respect of registrable designs. They therefore exist once you have created a design that is capable of registration. You need do nothing beyond creating the design to acquire the right. The second two rights require you to apply for and obtain registration. There are also differences in what each of the rights protects and how long the protection lasts. Unregistered Community Design rights last three years and the unregistered UK Design right for 10 years, while registered designs can give effectively monopoly rights for 25 years. It is important to appreciate that for any of

unregistered counterpart, many designers are prompted to ask why they should bother to go for registration at all. After all, 25 years protection of a design is generally more than is really necessary in the fast changing world of fashion, so why go to the cost of applying? These are valid questions but the answer is, to my mind, compelling. There is no stronger form of legal protection for your designs than registered design right. If you find someone has copied your designs, having a registered design number and certificate for your lawyer to wave under their nose will often be the beginning and end of infringement action. Having a registered design makes taking legal action easier and more cost-effective. It also has the great advantage of helping to settle disputes almost as soon as they arise by discouraging the copier from going to the expense of defending a claim. That is not to say that you cannot succeed in bringing action on unregistered design right; you can, but you would have to prove that not only does the infringer’s garment look similar, but also that it was a copy of your own. In short, a more risky and potentially costly case to run. There is an additional and less obvious benefit to registration; having a portfolio of registered designs makes your business more

“Copying in the fashion industry is, along with death and taxes, one of life’s certitudes” these protections, the design must be original and cannot be commonplace. A basic pair of trunks would not be capable of protection. The unregistered UK right protects the design of any aspect of the shape of the registrable design. The unregistered community design goes further, giving protection to colours, texture, materials, shape and embellishments of the garment. It is therefore generally a more useful right to assert. Go for the gold standard As the two forms of registered design give substantially the same protection as their

attractive to investors and potential purchasers; they like to see actual proof, in the form of design registration certificates, of the business’s intellectual property assets. Registering your designs and enforcing those rights will also result in your brand acquiring a formidable reputation in the marketplace – no bad thing in these days when, notoriously, factories can make knock-off copies of designs within a fortnight of the originals appearing on a catwalk. Yes, registering designs does cost, but as my clients know and many lingerie brands are discovering, it is worth it in the long run.

www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS / THE EXPERT VIEW

Claire Franks is the founder of the lingerie business specialist Intimate Apparel Consultancy, and has worked in the industry for more than 25 years. Visit www.intimateapparelconsultancy. co.uk for more information.

Ask yourself

“ 20

this…

LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR BUSINESS GURU CLAIRE FRANKS, FOUNDER OF INTIMATE APPAREL CONSULTANCY, OFFERS HER REGULAR INSIGHT INTO LINGERIE RETAIL, FITTING AND DESIGN.

Is the Fifty Shades of Grey trend still worth pursuing?

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hen times are challenging, retailers and businesses need to constantly look for and react to the latest trends. Being aware of what people are looking for and offering them solutions and a diversity of product to match their current needs is the aim of the game. Supermarkets have this down to a fine art, predicting the finest of food trends influenced by weather, politics, current news and sports events.

Seeking out influences During the last two years a huge trend was sports, and for us this transpired into lingerie being all about sports bras. It was everywhere, becoming a huge focus thanks to the London Olympics. Another less obvious trend recently has been nightwear: with three cold winters under our belts, the focus is back on this troublesome category with sales increasing on onesies, pyjama sets, loungewear and bathrobes. So what is the latest must-have

LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

to affect our wonderful industry? What should we be looking at closely?

Fifty shades of play Sales of the Fifty Shades of Grey series have been nothing short of phenomenal with over 70 million copies written in the English language sold worldwide, of which more than 14 million were sold in the UK alone, equating to a “Fifty Shades exposure rate” of just over 20% of the UK’s population! Digital retailers all over the world


THE EXPERT VIEW / BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS

“There are a lot of people who have never considered buying handcuffs or a riding crop, and now they are intrigued and interested in trying their own little versions of Fifty”

have been quick to jump on the Fifty Shades bandwagon, sensing both a rare and golden opportunity to attract mainstream customers, and this is key “mainstream consumer” as, despite what we may think, this book has bought the whole BDSM (bondage, discipline, sadism and masochism) scene to the forefront of everyday people’s lives.

Trial and transform While the sex toy industry has seen individual products spike in the past – selling millions of Rabbit Pearl vibrators after it appeared on Sex and the City – the difference with Fifty Shades is that it specifically references an entire category of products. Aside from making millions for the author and publisher, I see the book’s success as a transformational opportunity for our sector, specifically the BDSM market. There are a lot of people who have never considered buying handcuffs or a riding crop, and now they are intrigued and interested in trying their own little versions of Fifty. This is a boon for lingerie companies who are willing to trial and invest in this category, which continues to enjoy growth this year of 20-30% – not to be sniffed at when trade is so tough. You may be surprised by who actually buys these lines.

being understood let alone offensive. Packaging was tasteful, contemporary, some very feminine and pretty and worthy of presence on any retailer’s shelves. A wide choice was there, including the Fifty Shades of Grey branded toys and accessories. 

Don’t knock it before you try it If you fancy trying it without going too full-on out then look at creating a mini-section “inspired by” Fifty Shades of Grey. Maybe even offer a free book with every purchase. Products can include anything from a scented massage candle, satin and lace night dresses, lace underwear sets with matching hand ties, cushions or blindfolds through to a set of vibrating nipple clamps and much more! Look at this opportunity with open eyes; don’t submit to the stereotypes that you connect with those who buy and are attracted to these products. Displayed discreetly, these products can be sold in a tasteful, sophisticated way to a like-minded, everyday consumer, while you can enjoy the additional profit margin and turnover that they bring and the additional excitement and interest in your store.

The trend that keeps giving Is this a fad that could be over before it has already got going or a trend that is here to stay? I don’t think so. I believe it will be around few years more yet – and why? Because in late March, Universal Pictures secured the film rights for an estimated $5 million, according to the Hollywood Reporter. Fifty Shades is with us for the long haul, whether we like it or not.

Indecent retail proposals But have we embraced this new money making opportunity? I don’t think so. So why not? Is it that we are embarrassed? Believe it to be inappropriate? We don’t know how to present it in store, sell it or are simply concerned that it would offend our customers? There are many possible reasons why we may not have welcomed this new cash cow with open arms. But rather than focus on the many reasons why not, let’s discuss why we should. The Paris trade show in January was littered with stands selling all types of sensual products and toys, some so discreet they defy

CHECKLIST • Always keep an eye on social and cultural trends that might affect your sales. • Fifty Shades has opened up a market for people who wouldn’t have considered BDSM purchases: you can offer a safe, reassuring environment for them. • Tasteful packaging and stylish offerings make this more approachable than before. • Think of ways to try this out without too much commitment, such as a mini section in the shop, low-key options such as massage candles, and giveaways.

www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS / PISTOL PANTIES

Shooting

p i h e h t from

AS CELEB FAVOURITE SWIMWEAR LABEL PISTOL PANTIES LAUNCHING ITS NEW CAPSULE COLLECTION IN TOPSHOP STORES WORLDWIDE, HOLLY RAINS SPEAKS TO DESIGNER AND FOUNDER DEBORAH FLEMING ABOUT THE NEW RANGE, INTERNATIONAL POP-UPS AND THE IMPORTANCE OF HAVING A BRICKS-AND-MORTAR PRESENCE

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ithin minutes of speaking to Deborah Fleming, designer and founder of the luxury swimwear label Pistol Panties, it becomes clear that she is a skilled multi-tasker. Simultaneously juggling my phone call while preparing for one of Pistol Panties’ most exciting collaborations yet, with one of the world’s leading high-street stores, and looking after her two young daughters who are home for the day, it is no surprise that the driving force of the brand has achieved so much. The already internationally renowned brand may be about to launch into new global outposts with its Pistol Panties for Topshop collection – which will no doubt win the label

“It’s off the beaten track, so it feels like a destination shop, and people feel at ease coming here. I think that trying on swimwear is 80% of the battle; people need to feel comfortable,” she continues, adding that, along with this “shopping experience”, her team often show customers new fabrics and prints that they are working on to gauge consumer reaction before the final bikinis go on sale, something made possible by having the studio at the back of the shop. It is this first-hand feedback that Fleming insists is the reason Pistol Panties has not just endured the recession but positively flourished throughout, with the bricks-andmortar presence being a key factor in this success.

“These girls don’t need to be taught trends; they put their own personal taste on these clothes – they are the trends” a new, younger, army of fans – but Fleming is keen to talk about the very grounded subject of her Notting Hill store, which she describes as one of the most important facets of the brand. “It’s quite unique; it feels like you’ve been thrown back into a Caribbean island, where everything is quite vintagey, and it has this lovely, breezy feel,” says Fleming of the boutique, which has been open for eight years and acts as a hub for the label. 22

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“It’s really nice, because I get firsthand feedback from customers, like constant daily research of how we can improve our bikinis styles and fit,” she explains. “The customers are the reason we are still around,” Fleming says candidly. “A lot of people who don’t have shops are not in such a favourable position as we are, as they are stuck in the office, then go to trade shows and then speak to buyers, so nobody real is actually


PISTOL PANTIES / BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS

trying them on and giving them feedback – [people] with different body shapes. Everyone has different a body shape.” Fit is clearly a subject Fleming feels passionate about, laughing that she could talk about the ins and outs of sizing all day, but it is the new Pistols for Topshop capsule collection that is the subject of the moment for Fleming. “We’re always on the lookout for collaborations that fit with Pistol Panties and I am such a huge fan of Topshop and think they’re groundbreaking in what they do, leaders in selling beautiful items that don’t compromise on identity or quality,” she says on the big decision to partner with the high-street giants. The brands share a similarly fearless design aesthetic, specialising in bold patterns and cutting-edge designs, creating a pairing that is a match made in sartorial heaven, but this collection is much more to Fleming than just a meeting of minds. The four-piece capsule collection, which takes inspiration from the 1940s Copacabana Girls (think elaborate costumes and fruity headdresses), is set to drop in Topshop stores internationally this month including Rio, Sydney, New York and South Africa, and will ensure a wider reach for the brand in what Fleming describes as an “amazing opportunity”. “I put a lot of heart and soul into this little collection; it’s very over the top and showstopping, which I think is what Topshop’s all about. I didn’t pare down this collection and go safe; It’s very cool and very much ‘here I am’ swimwear,” Fleming explains. “This collection was so easy to design, as my natural state of designing is to be very showstopping, very cool. My ideal girl is someone who would just wear the bikini with heels and jean-shorts and be ready to go out. That’s what you can do with these designs, as the fabric is sort of like a denim outerwear fabric, but it’s for swim and embellished with a spray of glitter.”

However luxuriously flamboyant the new collection is, Fleming has ensured that the swimwear is wholly functional, with the fabrics being as suitable for swimming as they are for combining with ready-to-wear items. But it is the fashion element of the Pistols for Topshop collection that has got Fleming excited, with the brand soon to be exposed internationally to a young, fashion-forward crowd, unafraid to experiment with styles and prints. ‘These girls don’t need to be taught trends; I think they put their own personal taste on these clothes they are the trends,” Fleming muses. “That’s the most exciting part of it: the discerning Topshop customer. It’s not like we’re teaching them; they are almost teaching us something.” Yet for a brand that is renowned for making luxury boutique swimwear, achieving accessible price points that sit well on the high street must have taken some strategic planning and canny design. “The more you buy, the more you have negotiating power, “ she explains, pointing out that, compared with the mainline collections, which are very limited, the Topshop range consists of four styles produced in much larger quantities, which instantly allows for more accessible prices. “I love the idea of having accessible price points, and with the mainline pieces we always try to keep price points low, but because we make such a small amount and so much goes into it, it’s difficult. Our mainline is very boutiquey, so we just make a certain amount of bikinis with a roll or two of fabrics and then that’s it, no one has that bikini ever again, and that’s what makes our mainline unique. It’s very rare that you find a girl with the same bikini. We don’t reproduce.” The capsule collection, although very much “Pistols” in its vintage-witha-twist aesthetic, differs from the

mainline collection to make it specific to the Topshop customer, particularly focusing on original fabric usage, evident in the denim-type swim fabric that runs throughout the collection, something which Fleming has been working on for some time now. “It’s just different and very unique,” she says summing up the new line, “and wouldn’t necessarily fit into my main line, because it has a different design signature to it – this is more groundbreaking.” So, after conquering one of the world’s largest high-street chains what’s next for the swimwear brand? It seems, for Fleming, the future lies in the world of pop-ups. “We are definitely looking at having more shops. I mean retail is having a bit of a funny time right now and we’re riding out this retail hesitation, but I think the future is actually pop-up shops and we are looking at specific beach destinations around the world like Ibiza, St Tropez, Caribbean... I’m from Miami, so there are loads of hotels we are talking to about doing pop-up shops for three months. It’s a really exciting time.” www.pistolpanties.com

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INTERVIEW / NICHOLE DE CARLE

e i h p o S by

d e r i p Ins

e t t e l l a H

IN OUR NEW SERIES OF PULLOUT-AND-KEEP MOODBOARDS, WE GO BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE FRENCH LACEMAKER SOPHIE HALLETTE, WHICH WEAVES LACE FOR BRANDS FROM CHANEL TO AUBADE ON 19TH CENTURY LEAVERS LOOMS FROM NOTTINGHAM

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BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS / MARLIES DEKKERS

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Making Marlies AS SHE CELEBRATES 20 YEARS IN THE LINGERIE INDUSTRY, DESIGNER MARLIES DEKKERS LETS LINGERIE INSIGHT INTO THE SECRETS OF HER SUCCESS

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1 Africa Stitch set, SS13 2 Zebra Rock bikini, SS13 3 Desire body, from Undressed, SS13

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rom her early days as a star student at art college to one of the most feted lingerie designers in the world, Marlies Dekkers has had an eventful career. For one thing, her CV reads like one long award ceremony, from the Smirnoff Award and Zebeelt Award when she was studing at St. Joost Academy for Art and Design in Breda, through countless other accolades, to setting up her own prize, the marlies|dekkers award for young female artists (this year won by Masha Krasnova-Shabaeva). For another, when she started her

Undressed line, back in 1993, armed with a government grant and a grand ambition, she came up with a design signature so distinctive that it is still instantly recognisable and utterly relevant 20 years on. Those graphic lines and straps, peeking out from beneath shirts or jackets, are a long way from traditional lacy lingerie. They were revolutionary two decades ago, but they still appear with remarkable regularity on celebrity front covers and photoshoots. But while it’s the celebrity love that has really made her name, with custom designs for the likes of Lady Gaga and

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Shakira, Dekkers insists that her brand is for every woman, with the aim of achieving a perfect fit for any size and shape. Here, she talks about her life in lingerie. Lingerie Insight: Looking back at 20 years in lingerie, what is your greatest achievement? Marlies Dekkers: In the past 20 years

I’ve achieved a lot of things that I worked very hard for. It started with my graduation, with distinction, my first achievement! After that things went very fast. I started my own lingerie brand and in a few years I opened my


MARLIES DEKKERS / BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS

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ago, a thong was sold under the counter. Sexiness for women was designed by men. Men wanted to see women in a submissive, cute look, and that’s why fabrics as lace used to be so popular. I want to give power back to women – we should decide for ourselves how we feel sexy. I want to persuade women to look into the mirror and feel secure, sexy, nsual. feminine and sensual. rie with a very strong, I design lingerie th the graphic graphic look. With elements, such ass straps, I accentuate rts of the female body. the beautiful parts whelming recognition It’s such an overwhelming earing my lingerie and to see women wearing ng their looks, way see them changing of dressing, way of walking.

myself and I was very disappointed by the offer in lingerie stores at the time. I wanted my lingerie to be more daring, more fashion, and the fit and comfort needed to be much better! Finally this all worked out exactly the way I wanted. LI: Why do celebrities love your pieces? MD: My motto o is “dare dare to dream, dare dar

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LI: How did you get from star

first flagship store in Antwerp. A few years later my second store opened and now, 20 years later, I have 12 stores and 1,000 selling points worldwide. But back at the start, my first selling point across the border was a big achievement. Being asked to make custom pieces for celebrities like Lady Gaga, Britney Spears, Fergie and Shakira were moments I could only have dream of then. I was also the first lingerie brand to organise a spectacular catwalk show during Paris Fashion Week. All those moments are great memories and huge achievements. While thinking about those exciting moments, I can’t wait to make plans for the next couple years because it’s important to stay innovative all the time and be able to surprise your customer. LI: What do you think has been the secret of your success? MD: I believe the secret of my success

is my golden formula: an innovative high-end fashion design that can’t be compared to any other brand, a perfect fit with the ultimate comfort, and doing everything following my principles of a feminine point of view and the highest standards of quality. This feminine point of view is key. It made my designs iconic. Twenty years

elebrity art graduate to celebrity r? lingerie designer? MD: Before I became ame a lingerie designer, the female male body got cause of the my attention because beauty of it and the he age complexity. At the anding of seven, I was standing ie shop in front of lingerie ted by the windows, attracted mystique and thee beauty of lingerie and the female body. awing During my drawing lessons in my artt college ow the years, I got to know ter and female body better rawing lots better through drawing ale models. of different female oach the I started to approach female body as a sculpture. ic vase or Just like a ceramic ure, I saw a piece of sculpture, the female body as a form whose sensuality I could enhance. I learned that man every single woman ody with has an unique body ughout differences throughout the years becausee of life experiences and getting older. Of course I started wearing lingerie

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BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS / MARLIES DEKKERS

to grow, dare to be”. This motto is a 4 using my lingerie as an important summary of my philosophy, which I part of their outfit, using their fashiontry to pass on with my lingerie. Famous designed bra as a top or in combination pop stars or actresses like Lady Gaga, with a blouse or dress. This proves the Rihanna or Sarah Jessica Parker really revolution we’ve been through: 20 years live my motto. They live ago nobody showed their lingerie, but their dreams and aren’t these days women afraid of taking big see their bras as an steps in their lives. important item. They dare to be! My LI: When you’re lingerie fits their designing special daring characters. 5 pieces for stars, how Besides that, do you go about my designs are very leaving behind suitable for stage traditional lingerie performances, and coming up with music videos and something movie scenes extraordinary? because normally MD: Leaving behind lingerie can’t really traditional lingerie is be shown, but not difficult for me my lingerie can because my basic be worn as signature is not outerwear. traditional. I am very I don’t work with honoured traditional fabrics, with the traditional shapes or recognition I get from traditional designs. I love to take that celebrities but I design for every one step further in designing because woman: it gives me the same special I want to challenge women to do the feeling if I can make an unknown same in their lives. Artists are role person happy as when I see a celebrity models, and for my fans they are the in my designs. My “get dressed” concept best example of how to wear my is nowadays something you’ll see designs. When I design a new collection regularly in the street – women are

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4 Dame de Paris, from Undressed, in Pale Blush 5 Golden Karo set

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6 Art & Armour in blue, AW13 7 Marlies Dekkers 7 African Stitch, SS13 8 Society set, from Undressed, in orange

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MARLIES DEKKERS / BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS

“Sexiness for women was designed by men. 9 I want to give power back to women – we should decide for ourselves how we feel sexy” I go in full creative mode and lose all inhibitions. I do the same when I create a custom piece for an artist: I search for inspiration and check out extreme possibilities. LI: Tell us about the inspiration for the current collection and shoot. MD: For the collection that is in stores

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broad range of famous Dutch paintings by masters such as Rembrandt and Vermeer. The Mauritshuis, however, is also a work of art in its own right. Built between 1633 and 1644 it shows a type of architecture that features many Roman and Greek influences. Pillars, cornices and pediments combined with a certain symmetry are therefore at the core of the design. The owner, Johan Maurits, was a count, prince and a governor. In his role as governor he often visited Brazil with the West India Company. He took artists and scientist with him on these trips for them to document the exotic culture, nature and local population, by letting them paint on site. I’m very proud of this collection!

now, I found a huge source of in inspiration in beautiful Africa. I have visited the continent a couple of times and I fell in love with the overwhelming nature, which varies from the changeable sand dunes of the Sahara to the world-famous 7 Serengeti and the tropical rainforests of the Congo. The different LI: What do you hope tribes of Africa 11 to achieve over the next embrace age20 years? old traditions, MD: I don’t have concrete such as the plans yet – I never look wearing that far ahead because of beads to I think it would constrain communicate my creativity and messages innovative ideas, of love, the which fit in the right painting of period of time. their bodies for I don’t know yet what festive rituals or the kind of revolutionary trends documenting of life and news stories with embroidery. will show up in the fashion market By gathering the beauty of in upcoming years, so I can’t imagine Africa with these collections yet what I will be staying ahead of! I wanted to emphasise the diversity The certain thing is that I will go of the continent. I portrayed the beauty, on with my work as a fashion lingerie liveliness and colourful manner of designer and I will keep surprising my life in Africa with this collection and loyal fans. I want to achieve my I called it Sunset Africa. mission: reaching all women in the For the AW13, an entirely different world with my lingerie and telling them theme is being used. Going back to to look into the mirror and think: “You the roots of me and my brand – the are as beautiful, as sensual, as desirous Netherlands – I was inspired by The as you believe yourself to be. Dare to Mauritshuis. The formerly private be…” home, now a museum, is known for its www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS / HERITAGE

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Finnish first IN ITS 100-YEAR HISTORY, PATRICIA OF FINLAND HAS PROVIDED UNDERWEAR TO EVERYONE FROM FINNISH HOUSEWIVES TO THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND. GEMMA CHAMP EXPLORES ITS NEW GLOBAL AMBITIONS

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1 Images from the archives of Patricia of Finland 2 The Estelle collection, AW13

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hen you take a taxi from Helsinki airport in Finland, you don’t need to give an address for the country’s iconic lingerie company. “Take me to Patricia” is sufficient instruction. Everyone there knows the brand, men and women alike, and in the last 10 years that recognition is getting wider as its owners explore markets from Shanghai to London. It’s a big heritage for its owners to live up to, says its co-owner, Norwegian Torfinn Losvik, who bought the brand in 2002 with his Finnish business partner Eero Makkonen. “The Fins, like all nations, are proud of their brand,” says Losvik. “The heritage is very important in the sense that it’s proven to be a brand

that’s worked for 100 years, and has created a certain image, and there’s a certain expectation of what the brand should deliver – and we’re committed to stay the course.” The origins of Patricia of Finland go all the way back to 1912, when Julia and Johan Sjöblom opened their first sewing workshop and store. By 1932 they were not only making corsets and bras but importing brands from around the world, and had opened a shop in Helsinki. One of the first brands to introduce padding in the lower part of the cup, the couple’s brand was called Patricia of Finland in 1958. There are, of course, signature styles in the brand, but the most important characteristic of the brand was then and is now an emphasis on correct fit. In 1962, Julia conducted an immense

LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

survey of 27,000 Finnish women, noting down the measurements, the results of which are still the basis for the brand’s manufacture. For Losvik, fit is an element of lingerie that will never go out of date and, indeed, that he sees increasing in importance over the next years, and his brand’s consistency is, he thinks, a great boon. “We’re a more mature company in the sense that we’ve had a direction that’s been consistent,” he says. “There aren’t too many around like that in my opinion. And cup size and comfort are going to be more and more of an issue.” One woman who understands intimately the relationship between fit and fashion is the brand’s designer Evelin Kiirend, who has worked with Patricia of Finland for the last 10 years,


HERITAGE / BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS

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but as a Fin has known the brand since childhood. Kiirend enjoys plundering the archives for design inspiration, but she says that women today are not prepared to put up with the discomfort and restriction of the old days. “For today’s ladies, the comfort and fit is more important, so I only use some details from the past – stitchings, colours, little hints of the shape or old laces,” she says. Yet there are clear inspirations in her designs from the pieces squirrelled away over the brand’s 100 years, whether it’s the 1960s lines of the AW13 Estelle collection or the Art Nouveau embroideries of the Amanda line, inspired by Helsinki’s most famous statue, Ville Vallgren’s Belle Epoque nude Havis Amanda, installed in the Finnish capital just four years before Julia Sjöblom’s first atelier opened. “In the beginning I didn’t use the archive so much,” she says, “but now I have been digging more into the old things, because it’s really inspiring. I have these 100-year-old corsets, and old sewing machines from the early years, and a lot of 40s, 50s and 60s styles, so every now and then I go and check what was done before.” Losvik is enthusiastic, too, about the archives of the company, which he says are at the heart of the brand’s identity. “The archives of Patricia are quite something, a wealth of history and detail,” he says. “It’s a company that’s been around for a long time and has


HERITAGE / BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS

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a distinct identity.” Yet Patricia, like so many brands of its age, has had its ups and downs, and a certain sensible staidness had begun to settle on the collections by the time Losvik took over, the company having abandoned retail for pure wholesale and concentrating on classics and continuity. Since then, and particularly over the last three years, there has been a concerted effort to regain a younger customer, and to liven up the collections while still maintaining the quality and fit for which it is famous. “We were in the early days quite fashionable, and it started to get older and older [in outlook],” says Kiirend. “I felt that our brand was getting too old, so we needed to go back to our roots where we were in the beginning. That change happened three years ago. Before we were more targeting mothers, but now we’re targeting both mothers and daughters.” One thing that does not mean, though, is the brand adopting some of the rather sillier, more cocquettish mannerisms of the younger end of the lingerie industry. In its very matter-offact, Nordic way, its collections have a certain sexiness, but it is a sexiness that comes with comfort and confidence rather than peep-holes and frills. “I design especially for women, so they feel themselves,” insists Kiirend. “We don’t do the sexiness thing: we want the woman to feel feminine and confident and get the right support as

well. I would use the key words classical sensuality, comfort, with a touch of affordable luxury. Our bras are £40-£60, so it’s not too high prices, but we still have luxury design, and fitting is everything – it is the first thing for us.” So while the functional soft bras remain in the collection and remain popular - particularly as it’s an increasingly rare style – every collection contains a seamless push-up bra for t he younger customers. “That’s always a best-seller,” she says, “and nowadays you need to have embroidery or lace or details, not just plain T-shirt bras.” The AW13 collections for the brand were clearly defined for its different customers, and all played to a certain extent on the brand’s heritage. The

kittenish Estelle line, for example with its pale pink satin and 60s-style black ribbon accents, photographed under an original 60s hairdryer, was inspired by the 1960s archive material at Patricia. Athene, a subtle, grown-up collection using Austrian elastic embroidery, comes in a sort of cocoa-taupe colour that is in fact a Patricia signature and almost invariably a best-seller. Black Rose combines a traditional shape with a sexier aesthetic and though a small collection has sold extremely well for the season. Amanda, meanwhile, takes inspiration not only from the Havis Amanda statue but also the Art Nouveau art and architecture popular at the time of Patricia’s conception in 1912.

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BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS / HERITAGE

Sorbet, though, is modern, fresh and aimed clearly at the daughters of Finland, with different colours each season – featuring a vibrant scarlet for AW13. Spring/summer 2014, though, will see some significant changes in the ranges, says Kiirend, who is readying the collection for its appearance at Moda in August. “I’m quite ready with SS14,” she says. “We’ll have for the first time an

help Patricia of Finland resume its place on an international stage. The brand has engaged the services of Roy Barnes at Alba Associates to create a space in the UK. It has a history with the UK already, being recognised at a lunch in 1991 as one of the brands delivered to Her Majesty the Queen, and having had a long working relationship with Rigby & Peller. “The UK is a natural company for us,” says Losvik, “because of our fitting

“It’s time to grow and show that we can also appeal to the higher end” exclusive collection in Leavers lace and Swarovski, in a pearl grey colour with black lace. It’s going to be really beautiful. Then I have lots of different brighter colours, and also blue, which has been away for a while – sky blue. Then lemon, coral, nude, tulip shapes... It’s going to be a much larger collection than we used to have, with a bridal collection, sportswear, shapewear and also silk for the first time in our history.” So what has brought on this sudden burst of activity? “It’s time to grow and show that we can also appeal to the higher end,” says Kiirend. “And the customers are asking for more exclusive styles for us.” For Losvik, this is a season that can 34

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element, and our history in the UK market, so this is something that makes telling our story here easier.” He’s not stopping there: future plans include Germany, Russia and expansion of its existing position in Scandinavia. He has also had discussions with a Chinese importer, so the brand will soon be in the stores of Shanghai and Hong Kong, he says. It’s a consolidation, then, not only of market coverage but also brand awareness, and Losvik is conscious of his place in Patricia of Finland’s long history. “We had the centenary last year,” he says, “and while I might not be around for the second one, I can certainly make sure Patricia is on the right path.”


The prettiest in bridal lingerie, nursing bras, celebrity style and swimwear straight from Rio

THE FEMME FATALE COLLECTION BY SUMARIE London-based Sumarie gives us our first glimpse of the SS14 swimwear collections, and if this lovely monochrome number is anything to go by, it’s going to be a sexy season. This bikini is part of the brand’s mixand-match collection, conceived by the designer (and model) Marie Su. Sales contact: info@sumarie.com, www.sumarie.com


PRODUCTS & TRENDS / MATERNITY LINGERIE

o s h O “Just because they’re having a baby, they don’t want to change their style. They don’t see why they should change to some sort of frumpy, matronly old bra”

LORNA DREW NURSING LINGERIE Olivia bra and brief set RRP: baby pink moulded bra, £32, Loveheart brief, £16 Contact: csugars@evergreenapparel.co.uk, 07960 887791

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MATERNITY LINGERIE / PRODUCTS & TRENDS

y t t e r p o FROM PASTEL SHADES TO RICH LACE, NURSING BRAS ARE GETTING LOVELIER BY THE SEASON – BUT TECHNICAL DETAILS ARE STILL AT THE HEART OF THIS SPECIALIST FIELD

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t’s one of the most technically demanding areas of lingerie design, but the nursing bra is no longer a purely functional glamour-free zone. As pregnancy and post-pregnancy outerwear gets slicker and ever more fashionable, and celebrity mums and mums-to-be are splashed across the gossip rags looking gloriously fit and glowy, so the specialists in maternity lingerie are having to extend their ranges into prettier, more flattering looks that will keep their customers happy. Th is doesn’t mean, however, that everything is plastered in lace and Swarovski crystals (although there’s defi nitely a place for that). In fact, something as simple as a pretty colour on an everyday soft bra can lift the wearer’s mood – so important when pregnancy has taken its sometimes traumatic toll on a woman’s body. For Bravado, listening to the customer has been key to meeting the demand, and the same requests are being heard year after year. “We always have lactation consultants, test wearers, we send out samples to bloggers, and we look for any feedback we can get, because it’s the only way we can make sure our bras will work,” says Tanya Bulloch, who works in sales and marketing for the brand. “The one thing that comes back time and time again is that they want it to be pretty but supportive and comfortable, which is how we came up with our T-shirt bra the Bliss, and how we came up with the seasonal colours

on our Body Silk Seamless Bra.” Lorna Drew, whose eponymous brand has a multitude of celebrity fans, agrees, pointing out that the customer and her expectations have greatly changed in recent years. “They’re so aware now about how a bra should fit, how it should look; and they want a bra without wires in it to look the same as the bras they’ve been wearing,” she says. “If you think about before a woman gets pregnant, in those years they have good disposable income, they’ve been buying good lingerie all these years; just because they’re having a baby, they don’t want to change their style. They want to keep their identity and fashion choices. They don’t see why they should change to some sort of frumpy matronly old bra.” It’s this trend that has persuaded the lingerie designer and former model Caprice to enter the market, with a maternity range to launch in SS14, in addition to her existing By Caprice lingerie and swim collections. “I am launching By Caprice Maternity Lingerie because there is a gap in the market for fashionable, functional and supportive designs. Lots of maternity brands are simply missing that design-edge,” she told LI by email. “With our technological innovation, our exquisitely designed lingerie will empower new and soon-to-be mums and make them feel comfortable, confident and fashionable.” Deike Düsing, the designer of maternity wear for Anita, sees this trend continuing to grow, with women

looking for the same shape during nursing as they had before pregnancy. “The trend goes more and more to soft-underwired nursing bras, contour nursing bras with pre-formed shell cups, spacer cups or foam cups,” she says. “Nursing bras have to be concealing, so the outlines of the nursing pad is not seen through, but also breast feeding bras will be more and more embellished or decorated, be it with lace, a print, or a mix of both. But function must never be neglected.” Indeed, none of the leading nursingbra brands are ignoring the fact that however pretty it is, maternity lingerie has to perform. With vitally important health issues to consider, such as underwires that won’t cause mastitis, let alone comfort at a time when the body is probably at its least comfortable, it remains essential to put function before beauty. For some brands, then, the best way to add prettiness is with colour rather than embellishment, keeping the basic bra as well-functioning as possible. In the end, it makes sense to stock a variety of nursing bras simply because women have different moods and needs: one day a basic soft bra, the next evening a satiny moulded cup. Some simple outerwear, such as tunic tops, maxi dresses or Bravado’s Nursing Tanks, can offer extra sales, too. “The minimum suggestions would be to buy at least two nursing bras, one as a classic T-shirt bra, and one with special features, prints, details,” says Düsing.

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS / MATERNITY LINGERIE

Colour EMMA-JANE MATERNITY Next Generation Nursing/Maternity Bra RRP: £14 Contact: sales@emma-jane.com

BRAVADO Body Silk Seamless in Safari Melon RRP: £29.70 Contact: Tanya@bravadodesigns.com

CAKE LINGERIE Ginger Macaroon set RRP: £38 Contact: sales@cake lingerie.com

Lace

FROM LEFT HOTMILK HOT Embroidered bra and brief Embr RRP: bra, £32, brief, £16 RRP Contact: www.hotmilklingerie.com Cont FREYA FREY Rosie nursing set RRP: soft-cup nursing bra, RRP £15.50 £32, short, s Contact: Margaret Lythgoe, 01536 Cont 760282 7602 CAKE LINGERIE CAK Sherbet non-wire bra Sherb RRP: £38 RRP Contact: sales@cakelingerie.com Cont ANITA MATERNITY ANIT Black Lace bra RRP: £44 RRP Contact: Jemma Barnes, Cont 8446 7478 020 8


MATERNITY LINGERIE / PRODUCTS & TRENDS

Outerwear extras FROM LEFT AMAMANTE Chachi Print Maxi Dress RRP: US$62 Contact: Tanya@amamante.com

Technical

BRAVADO Essential Nursing Tank in Suede Blush RRP: £35.90 Contact: Tanya@bravado designs.com HOTMILK Twilight nightie RRP: £45 Contact: www.hotmilklingerie.com MYABLUELUXE Manhattan silk top RRP: £215 Contact: 0116 2414 627

CANTALOOP NURSING BRA Developed by medical textiles specialist TYTEX, the Cantaloop bra claims to mark a revolution in adaptability to the changing body, comfort, support and fit. Strong, soft and elasticated yarns mean the four Cantaloop sizes will fit more than 95% of all bust dimensions, offering support without the need for underwire or stiff fabrics. RRP: around £24 Contact: sales@centralmedical.co.uk

Loungewear

PRODUCTS COMPILED BY MARIANNE TROTTA

FROM LEFT ANITA Maternity bra in Polka Dot RRP: £40 Contact: Jemma Barnes, 020 8446 7478 AMORALIA Princess set in Petrol spot RRP: underwired nursing bra, £39, brief, £20 Contact: orders@amoralia.com FREYA Pollyanna Dotty Black set RRP: soft nursing bra, £29, shorts, £10.50 Contact: Margaret Lythgoe, 01536 760282

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TRENDS / BRIDAL LINGERIE

Something

New AS SPRING FINALLY ARRIVES, WE’RE IN THE MOOD FOR ROMANCE, SO IT’S JUST THE RIGHT TIME TO LOOK AT THE LATEST DEVELOPMENTS AND PRODUCTS IN WEDDING WEAR

Gasson’s garters Adding to his already exquisite bridal collections, Ayten Gasson launched his bespoke bridal garter service last month. Available in four silk options – ivory, cream, Eco Organic and oyster – the garters use traditional vintage lace from royal lace makers Roger Watson and Cluny, as well as vintage buttons and charms. Each garter is handmade in the Ayten Gasson Brighton studio and deli delivered in the brand’s signature black-and-gold gift box. The service costs £38. Contact: info@aytengasson.com 40

LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

The luxury Polish brand Gracya, a specialist in bridal lingerie, has its products designed by a wedding-dress designer, making it more “sympathetic” to the fit of the dress. This season two new lines have been added. The Oyster Pearl collection features a scallop-effect bra with a delicate pearl in the centre, and a matching brief available separately. It comes in a Gracya gift box. Meanwhile, for honeymoon, Gracya has launched a delicate, sheer babydoll set with pink ribbons, floral embroidery and a matching brief. The MD of distributor Alterego, Diane GordonFreeman, says, “Gracya have responded to demand for a pretty chemise set, and we certainly haven’t been disappointed. We have been continually asked for Honeymoon wear wedding products, and I think that they’ve done us proud.” Contact: 0845 094 6603, or visit www.alterego-lingerie.com

PRODUCTS COMPILED BY MARIANNE TROTTA

Oysters and pearls


BRIDAL LINGERIE / TRENDS

Fuller bridal range by Elomi Eveden’s fuller-figured brand Elomi has introduced a new bridal line for AW13 called Maria. This opulent collection comes in smooth cream satin with a choice of underwire strapless multiway bra and an underwired strapless multiway basque, both available up to a 40HH. Brief and thong-style coordinates are both available up to a 4XL, and Elomi will introduce a Maria bridal babydoll for SS14. Contact: Margaret Lythgoe, 01536 760 282

Roza by any other name Also distributed by Alterego, Roza has introduced its Ambre collection, with mix-and-match options that are perfect for particular brides. Lace, bows and scalloped edging enhance the romantic appeal, and the pieces include push-up and soft-cup bras, a thong, brief and suspender belt, and all are available as individual pieces packaged in satin-finished Roza boxes. Contact: 0845 094 6603, or visit www.alterego-lingerie.com The full collections can be seen at www.alterego-lingerie.com

Stock some stockings Legwear International launched a brand new bridal range this year, featuring five new styles including deep lace-top hold-ups, stockings and tights, as well as more flamboyant lacedetailed styles. Products come in ivory and white, in medium, large and X-large, and range in price from £7.99 to £12.99. Contact: info@ legwearinternational.co.uk

Something old Georgia Feeley has launched Pompadour Garters & Lingerie to make vintage bridal garters, which range from £50-£65. Made from vintage silks and lace, and adorned with vintage jewellery, each one is unique and comes in a gift box. Feeley is planning to develop the line to include a silk cami top and knicker set. Contact: georgia@pompadourgarters. co.uk

www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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TRENDS / BRIDAL LINGERIE

AYTEN GASSON Organic silk cami set trimmed with vintage lace RRP: cami, £78, knicker, £44 CONTACT: info@ aytengasson.com

FLEUR OF ENGLAND Jasmine Guipure Contour Babydoll RRP: £275 Contact: suzanne@ fleurofengland.com

Here comes

the bride OUR PICK OF THE PRETTIEST NEW BRIDAL SETS ON THE MARKET

SIMONE PERELE Amour set RRP: 3D spacer plunge bra, £69, shorty, £45 Contact: 020 8332 3060, www.simone-perele.com

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LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

FAUVE Rosa set RRP: underwired strapless moulded basque, £91, deep brief, £29, garter, £26. Contact: Margaret Lythgoe, 01536 760282


BRIDAL LINGERIE / TRENDS

TRIUMPH Cool Sensation set RRP: padded bra, £36, high-waisted pants, £30 Contact: 020 8534 0456

PATRICIA EVE Body Wrap Bride bodysuit RRP: £67.95 Contact: Mike Oates, 01423 885374

WONDERBRA Ultimate Strapless Lace set in ivory RRP: bra, £36, thong, £11.50 Contact: Gill Gosden 01483 291450

FANTASIE Samantha set RRP: underwired strapless bra, £38, thong, £16, suspender, £24 Contact: Margaret Lythgoe, 01536 760282

HUIT Tea for Two set RRP: strapless bra, £59, string, £26, suspender, £39 Contact: Margaret Lythgoe, 01536 760282

ANDREA BILLARD Angelis set RRP: bustier, £115, boy shorts, £53 Contact: info@andreabillard.com, 07525 330 644

www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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PRODUCT & TRENDS / SWIMWEAR

g n i Fly

down to Rio

THE LATEST TRENDS IN SWIMWEAR HIT THE RUNWAY LAST MONTH DURING RIO FASHION WEEK, BRAZIL, THE SPIRITUAL HOME OF ALL THINGS SWIM-RELATED. FROM SLEEK MONOCHROME PRINTS SEEN AT SALINAS AND TRIYA, TO FRUITY PRINTS AND EXOTIC DETAILING AT BLUE MAN, THE FUTURE OF SWIMWEAR DESIGN WAS ON SHOW HERE. Triya

Triya

Lenny Niemeyer

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Triya

Salinas

LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk


SWIMWEAR / PRODUCT & TRENDS

Blue Man

Blue Man

Lenny Niemeyer

Salinas

Salinas

GETTY IMAGES

Triya

www.lingerieinsight.com / MAY 2013 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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TRENDS / CELEBRITY WATCH

Alessandra Ambrosio

Azealia Banks

Candice Lake

Chanel Iman

r a d a R y t i r b e l e C e h T

S P O T FO R TH E PE R FEC T S A W L A IV T D LO O K S N D ART S FE S TE S -I N S PIRE LEY M U S IC A A L A IM V T A IN L T L S E E H P ’S COAC TO TH E IR H IP L A ST M O NTH STRIP D OWN O T S L E D O Katy STAR S AN D M Perry Vanessa Hudgens

Irene Baldwin

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LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

GETTY IMAGES

Rihanna


CELEBRITY WATCH / TRENDS

Lily Aldridge

Victoria’s Secret

Julianne Hough Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley

s e l c i n o r h C m a r g a t s T he In PE D S HAVE E SC A R TA S E S E H T , O LIDAY PIC S G R AM PIC S ... P S TO F U N H A N S T O TH E IR IN STA O E H R -S A N E O R E ID H D . S R C LIM E FRO M C AN E D TO S U N N IE CO LD AN D FL

TH E

Anne V

Rihanna

INSTAGRAM

Candice Swanepoel

Alessandra Ambrosio

Jessica Hart

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EVENTS / SOCIAL LITE

The people, the places and the scene at the most glamorous events in the world of lingerie this month...

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4 1

1 Tyson Beckford and Shanini Shaik at the Calzedonia swimwear catwalk event 2 Poppy Delevingne on the red carpet at the Calzedonia swimwear catwalk event 3 5

Leigh Lezark attends Calzedonia’s swimwear catwalk event 4 Soencer Matthews and friend at the Waxx spring/summer launch party 5 Tali Lennox and guests at the at the Calzedonia swimwear catwalk event 6 Models at the Waxx spring/summer

2

launch party

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LINGERIE INSIGHT / MAY 2013 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

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([FOXVLYH'LVWULEXWRURI'UHDPJLUOLQWKH8.DQG52, Bookings Now Being Taken to View Our Showroom Contact our Sales Team for more information

Tel: +44 (0)161 480 6204 Fax: +44 (0)161 475 0810 Email: sales@newtemptations.co.uk www.newtemptations.co,uk Central House , 2-4 Wellington Grove, Stockport, Cheshire, SK2 6RH



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