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Home &


garden Tuesday May 15 2012


for a colorful spring season



It's Planting Season!


The Booster Tuesday May 15 2012

freshen up your

carpets & upholstery

Garden decor Wind chimes Plant hanGers shePherd’s hooks colorful annuals Perennials hanGinG Baskets VeGetaBle Plants

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Special Section Home & Garden

Special Section Home & Garden




The Booster Tuesday May 15 2012

Planning a home improvement job? Planting a tree? Installing a fence or deck? WAIT! Here’s what you need to know first. Whether you are planning to do it yourself or hire a professional, smart digging means calling 811 before each job. Digging homeowners often make risky assumptions about whether or not they should get their utility lines marked, but every digging job requires a call—even small projects like planting trees and shrubs. The depth of utility lines varies and there may be multiple utility lines in a common area. Digging without calling can disrupt service to an entire neighborhood, harm you and those around you and potentially result in fines and repair costs. Calling 811 or 1-800-242-8511 before every digging job gets your underground utility lines marked for free and helps prevent undesired consequences.

Know what’s below. Call before you dig.


Divine Deck Design ⊲ Don't forget to check for local building permit requirements.

When it comes to improving outdoor living spaces, decks are a popular choice. If you're thinking about adding a new deck, or even replacing or resurfacing an old deck, there are a lot of things to consider before you get started. These tips from the experts at Fiberon will help you design the right deck for your needs. Determine Deck Use. Think through all the ways you'll be using your deck. • Will you entertain frequently? If so, how many people will you need space for? • What kind of seating will you need—patio furniture or built-in benches? Will you need lighting to entertain at night?

Choose Deck Location. For most people, the size and orientation of your house and property limit possible deck locations to one or two areas. Within those areas, think about things like: • Climate If your area gets hot, humid summers, putting a deck in a southern or western location might make it a hot spot you'll end up avoiding. Is it windy where you live? Then think about putting the deck where it will get some protection from the house or a screen of trees. • Privacy Careful placement of your deck can eliminate unwanted views, minimize traffic noise and give you additional privacy. Select Deck Materials. Here are some questions to consider when choosing deck materials: • What's your budget? When calculating costs, decide the amenities and features you want such as an arbor, fire pit, multiple deck levels, and type of railing. • How much maintenance are you willing to do? Treated lumber is a common choice for decks. While wood has its advantages, maintenance can become a chore that adds up in terms of time and money. Composite decking is a lower maintenance option that more and more homeowners are choosing. When it comes to the design stage of the process, a new online tool can make it very easy. Fiberon, one of the leading manufacturers of composite decking, railing and fencing and PVC outdoor flooring, offers a Deck Design tool that allows you to select the shape and size of your deck, including the number of levels, stairs, railings—even board widths and footings in addition to choosing from various colors and styles. Once your design is complete, you can print out your deck plans in full color, including a 3D rendering and a complete materials list. The addition of a deck is a great way to increase your outdoor living space and add value to your home. Asking the right questions and using the right tools will help you create a deck design that's truly divine. Source: Fiberon —Family Features


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with your small donation to milwaukee rescue mission. thank you to our customers for helping us to raise $935.00 for Family Promise of washington county in march. 262–673–3132 · 1–800–285–3132

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Special Section Home & Garden




The Booster Tuesday May 15 2012


Our mulch comes from our own Wisconsin area. STARTER Mulch • PinE Mulch • cEdAR Mulch hEMlOck Mulch • EnviRO Mulch • PREMiuM Mulch WOOdchiP Mulch • iPEMA cERTifiEd PlAygROund chiPS

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SavingS uP to 25%

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Call, or stop in and talk with our residential lenders Tony Andereck and Lori Mihm in Hartford; or see Mary Jo Brugger and Wendy Christenson in our Slinger office. Annual Percentage Rate of 4.023% is based on loan amount of $150,000.00 and 20% downpayment. Monthly payment schedule of 360 payments of $716.12, assuming the closing is on the first of the month. Payments do not include amounts for taxes and insurance premiums, if applicable; actual payment of obligation may be greater. Rates subject to change at anytime.

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439 e. WaSHingtiOn St.  P.O. BOX 350 SLinger Wi 53086 262 · 644–7606



Since 1954


15 Mill Street Downtown Hartford 262–673–4020 Monday, Wednesday, Thursday & Friday 8:30am–8pm · Tuesday 8:30am–5pm · Saturday 8:30am–4:00pm

3 ways

Special Section Home & Garden




The Booster Tuesday May 15 2012


to boost curb appeal for under $100 Want to add curb appeal, but don’t have much money to spend? Here are some simple things you can do for under $100.

⊲ Clean up the yard. Put away unused items, like lawn furniture. Clear leaves and branches out from under shrubs, other plants, and the house foundation. Make sure the lawn is free from debris and that grass clippings are not left on the driveway or sidewalk. Borrow or rent a power washer to clean off the driveway, steps, sidewalk and porch. ⊲ Trim, prune and divide. Overgrown plants can block light from getting inside the house, and they make the house and yard look unkempt. Trim shrubs, making sure to remove dead branches. Get rid of dead or diseased plants in the landscape. If you have perennial plants that have gotten too big, divide them and plant them in other places around the landscape. ⊲ Add new mulch. Mulch not only helps your plants, but it gives garden beds a neat and tidy finish. Wood mulch comes in different colors, but to showcase your plants the most, consider a dark brown mulch — it resembles fresh, healthy soil, so your eyes are drawn toward the plant and not the mulch itself. —Family Features

Just Not Enough “My morning glories, moon vine and firecracker vine never seem to bloom enough until late summer or even fall.” “My baskets were full of flowers when I bought them and now, they’re leggy sticks with leaves.” “I fertilized my tomatoes, but they just didn’t produce anything like the quantities I expected.” “I put my beans in early, but they hardly came up!” So, what’s the problem when there’s just not enough? Morning glories, moon vine, cardinal vine and firecracker vine are all like the same thing. When our son was little, I had pots of them growing on the railings and supports of our front porch for their shade. They always grew fine, maybe a little sparse on the leafy side, but they bloomed like crazy. Their siblings on the tee pees in the garden grew lush, huge leaves and vines, but hardly bloomed until late in summer. The secret . . .too much good food. The blooming morning glory family likes to be on a diet. Give them a decent size pot and no extra fertilizer. They grow, get pot bound and bloom like there’s no tomorrow. Out in the good garden soil, they thought the season would never end. They never went into flowering mode until they got a shock of cold and then set buds too close to frost to really make a show.

Flowering baskets using soilless growing mix need regular fertilizer or there’s no food to be had. Regular fertilizer promotes leafy growth, unless using a fertilizer for blooms, not many flowers. Pinch callies, petunias, creeping snapdragon, fan flower and creeping verbenas to keep them in shape and promote more blooms. Pinch 1/3rd of the growing tips every couple of weeks and your basket should bloom all summer. Just like hanging baskets, constant fertilizer makes for lush foliar growth, but not necessarily flowers and fruit. If you have lots of lush tomato or pepper plants and you’re in full sun, you’re using too much fertilizer. Planted beans or even sweet corn while the ground was still cold and wet? Beans especially need soil temperatures of 55 degrees or more to maximize germination (sprouting). If the ground is cold and wet like typical Wisconsin soil is, the seed is going to rot in the ground before it decides to grow. So, if you just don’t have enough, ask some questions and do some research. That way you’ll get the most out of a growing season that sometimes seems to be — just not enough. More Information at 262-692-9650 or We’re open in Fredonia! © 2012 Lisa Dohrwardt, General Manager of Don’s Fredonia Greenhouse


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Special Section Home & Garden

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The Booster Tuesday May 15 2012



hen a new gardener is envisioning their first garden, more than likely the image in their head is a sun garden. Sun gardens are crammed with a multitude of colors. Colors range from bright and bold, like orange, red Learn to love your shade garden and fuchsia to the and about the different types of shade softer beauty of you might encounter blues, creams and in your garden. pinks. But make no mistake, flower color during those steamy dog days of is the main show and thousands of different plants play their summer a shade garden is a refuge from the heat, an oasis in a landscape that can part. however, every gardener is inevitably faced with another kind of garden. a be sun blasted and tiring. In the middle of summer, just looking at a shade garden garden that is more challenging, more subtle than exuberant. not less beautiful can make me sigh with pleasure at the than that bold sun garden, but a different thought of escaping the glare of the kind of elegant beauty—this garden is blazing sun. Once you embrace the shady the shade garden. I think many people part of your garden as having a wonderful approach shade gardening with at least a role to play in making the garden more bit of trepidation, if not fear and loathing. beautiful and user friendly, what was however, it is best to embrace shade once a chore becomes a labor of love! gardening for what it gives you, rather than what it cannot give you.

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The first thing to learn about shade is that not all shade is created equal. You might say that when it comes to shade there is the good (bright shade, dappled shade), the bad (deep shade, deep tree roots) and the ugly (the dark side of a wall, shallow tree roots). Fortunately for us, good shade can be quite fun to work with, bad shade can often be turned into good shade and the ugly isn’t all that prevalent. Plus there are strategies to make even these deep shade environments look nice.


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The offer is subject to credit approval on your Yard Card or Yard Card Plus credit card account on purchases over $2000 between 5/1/12 and 6/30/12. During the promotional 36 month period the minimum monthly payment is calculated by dividing the Purchase amount by the length of the promotional period. No Interest accrues during the promotional period. If your account becomes 60 days


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Special Section Home & Garden

Let’s start by defining what shade is. The rule of thumb for shade is an area that receives less than 4 hours of direct sun a day. Full shade plants prefer to get little direct sunlight. They like less than 4 hours of direct sun a day and prefer morning and late afternoon sun to midday sun. Full shade plants will also do outstanding in dappled shade conditions. an area that will be shaded by a fence or wall will need to get several hours of sun in either morning or late afternoon for plants to do well. Full shade does not refer to dark places — all plants need at least some light. There is one other aspect of shade you should keep in mind, shade moves throughout the day as the sun moves across the sky. It can be easy to over or under estimate how much sun versus shade an area gets. however, learning how the shade moves across your yard, is a good thing to do. now that we know, in general, what shade is, let’s start looking at the different kinds of shade.

The Good Good shade can be defined as areas

that get morning and/or late afternoon sun, receive dappled shade all day and areas that are bright, but not sunny. These types of conditions create shade that has enough light for a fairly wide selection of plant material to thrive. good shade can still be challenging, but usually those challenges can be worked around with relative ease. Most shade plants will thrive in the conditions found in good shade. dappled shade refers to areas where there is a mixture of sun and shade, generally because a deciduous tree is nearby. Plants in this category are often woodland plants and will do best with almost no direct sun (even morning


or late afternoon sun). The dappled shade area is usually larger than the tree canopy creating it. woodland plants thrive on full days of sun that has been filtered by trees. Bloodroot, aquilegia, wild ginger, wild Violets, Jack-in-the-Pulpit, heuchera, hosta and Meadow rue are some examples of woodland plants.

The Bad Bad shade could also be called dense

shade and can be defined as areas that get no direct sunlight but still get reasonable light, are too dark to be considered dappled shade and/ or have complicating factors such as abundant surface tree roots that make gardening difficult. Because these spots have more limited light, the plant palette is much more refined. Let me also say that bad shade means that it can be difficult to establish a lush garden under these conditions. This does nOT necessarily mean that you want to get rid of all of your dense shade areas, as dense shade can be a haven from the heat of summer. One type of garden that works in dense shade is a woodland garden. woodland gardens will largely rely on shrubs and foliage plants installed under a dense canopy of trees. These gardens tend not to be densely planted and often use mulch to give a uniform appearance in the open areas. Spring ephemerals, plants that grow and bloom before the trees leaf out in spring are a key element in these garden situations. To best make use of your woodland garden, install some benches or other seating so that you can sit and enjoy your respite from the heat. Sometimes dense shade can be improved. If you are going to try to turn bad shade into good shade, the first thing you need to do is identify why the spot would be considered bad shade.



The Booster Tuesday May 15 2012

The first thing to come to mind is trees that are creating dense shade conditions. If you have a deciduous tree or trees creating dense shade conditions, you can usually create good shade by simply trimming off the lower branches to allow more light to penetrate under the canopy. The tree roots do limit plant selection somewhat, but the light is fantastic. If you are gardening under trees, roots are simply going to be a fact of life. however, not all tree roots are created equal either. Trees with relatively deep roots, such as hickory, Oak and Black Tupelo, are comparatively easy to garden under. deep-rooted trees are easier to dig holes and plant under. Shallow rooted trees, fall under the “Ugly” shade category. when tree roots are a factor, you need to plan on utilizing plants that will tolerate dry shade.

The Ugly Areas in your garden that are not only

shaded, but are dark —are the most difficult type of shade in which to garden. These areas get no direct sun, not even dappled sunlight. These spots are usually created by walls or fences, often combined with trees. while trimming nearby trees can make some difference, these spots usually cannot be turned into bright shade. If your dark spot is due to a fence, you could opt for a more open type of fence, for example a wrought iron or picket fence rather than one made of solid wood, to help improve the situation. however, if privacy is the goal of the fence, this is probably not an option. There is a rather limited plant palette available for these areas. If you have a dark spot you might want to consider transforming this area using hardscaping. You could pave it and make it into a seating area or perhaps

install a water feature to add ambience. Using garden art, statuary, outdoor furniture or containers to add color would also be something to consider. despite the limited plant palette, a dark corner can be turned into an asset for your garden with creativity and persistence. another side of ugly shade is where there are shallow rooted trees, such as Maple, Birch and Beech trees. Shallow rooted trees have roots very near the surface of the soil, practically on top of the soil. These very shallow roots make digging holes for planting extremely frustrating, not to mention hard work. You may be tempted to get around the root problem by installing a raised bed and simply adding soil on top of the roots. There are two problems with this—first, the roots will eventually grow into this new soil layer. Second, if you put too much soil over tree roots you can actually kill the tree. roots need to breathe and adding a dense layer of soil over the root system limits the oxygen it receives and can over time weaken and then kill the tree. The last ugly shade condition are trees with very low hanging branches, such as evergreens that have branches within a foot or two of the ground. with very low-branched trees, you should probably plan on using mulch rather than planting. If you do use mulch, do not over mulch. The recommended mulch depth for trees is two to four inches, which will discourage weeds and improve aesthetics. Using too much mulch will have the same oxygen reduction effect as adding soil. Shade gardens can be wonderful additions to any flower garden, you simply have to embrace what shade can bring to your garden. — Contributor Kerry Meyer

This article was previously published on

At Glacier Hills we have set a goal of saving our members $1,000,000 by refinancing their loans. We are refinancing everything to our great low rates with the goal of returning $1,000,000 back into the local economy one member at a time. Mortgages • Home Equity • Auto Loans Boat Loans • RV Loans • Line of Credit Personal Loans • Credit Cards If you have a loan give us a call or stop in and see how much we can save you by refinancing. • 262-338-1888 West Bend • Hartford

Special Section Home & Garden


Top 5 tips for growing beautiful roses


rom June to September, roses add a special flourish to yards, gardens and public parks throughout the U.S. But for many gardeners, tending roses may seem intimidating. With 23 years of experience, Jamie Shiffer, head gardener at Hershey Gardens in Hershey, Pa., knows a thing or two about cultivating a beautiful rose, in all of its varieties.

Here are Shiffer’s top five rose gardening tips for gardeners of all experience levels: Plant and fertilize early. Consider planting new rose bushes in early spring. “Both new and existing rose plantings will need to be fertilized at this time,” says Shiffer. He recommends applying a slow-release fertilizer surrounding the base, such as the GreenView with GreenSmart Rose Food, which is formulated with essential macro and micro nutrients that provide extended feeding for up to 12 weeks. Research reveals it helps to produce superior plant growth, improve plant health and vigor, and increase buds, blooms and plant yield. After fertilizing, thoroughly water your roses. If desired, you can apply two inches of mulch around the plant. Avoid over watering. “You should water roses sparingly throughout the very hot season,” recommends Shiffer. “The biggest mistake people make when watering is to water from overhead with a hose, instead of at ground level,” says Shiffer. Watering from above, Shiffer explains, can cause black spots to appear on the petals and throughout the day. As the heat intensifies, the water on the petals promotes fungal growth. To avoid this, water at ground level first thing in the morning. Prevent black spot. While good watering techniques can prevent fungal growth, for some gardeners, a humid environment can still lead to the same problem. “Treat black spot using a



The Booster Tuesday May 15 2012

Slow release fertilizers help produce superior plant growth.

fungicide spray application on the plants every two weeks,” says Shiffer. Prune for increased plant growth. To encourage rejuvenation and growth from your rose bushes, be sure to deadhead through Sept. Count from the blossom down to the fifth leaf and make an angled cut. Maintain throughout each season. Regardless of variety, roses require year round maintenance. Use this calendar as a guide to care for your rose bushes: March Thin out the plantings; cut them back to 8 or 12 inches in length. April Beginning in late April or early May, fertilize roses with a slow-release fertilizer that will last for 3 months, such as GreenView with GreenSmart Rose Food. May to October Use spray application on roses every two weeks. From June to Sept., deadhead your plantings, so they will push new growth. September Remove rose petals without cutting the bulb off completely. November Cut all roses back for the winter to 32 inches in height. or novice gardeners, Shiffer recommends starting with Star roses or Knockout roses, as they are among the most disease and insect resistant. “They come in many different colors and produce blooms throughout the year,” says Shiffer.


To discover more about Hershey Gardens, visit and to learn about GreenView with GreenSmart Rose Food, other plant-specific formulations, and find more gardening tips, go to Source Greenview

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Home & Garden 2012  

West Bend Booster

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