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Felt A l CuTtrey aBnoeww ue techniq

eaSy stItch VintaGe styLe

Mix rainbow stripes with granny trebles


Are you ready for a bit of crochet magic? This issue we’re escaping into a pastel-coloured world of unicorns, rainbows and the most beautiful stitches. There’s cute amigurumi to hook, the next mandala in our new series and a seriously covetable cardigan. Plus, have a go at felting and get cosy with cables, socks and a statement cowl. Enchanting.


Patel yan, p76

ISSUE FIFTY-FOUR

CONTENTS

32 GraNny Chic

WelCome to DreAmLand P16

Psste thi

We lov e l vintage-sty e ett colou pal

fun and ColOuRful DesIgns Y0U’ll L0ve 14 AMIGURUMI UNICORN 16 PASTEL BEDROOM MAKES 32 GRANNY CARDIGAN 41 COWL BY VICKIE HOWELL 45 AMIGURUMI RABBIT 49 THE BIG KNIT HATS 53 CROCHET POMPOM

55 HOOK TO HOOK CHALLENGE 63 TEXTURED ACCESSORIES 66 RAINBOW BLANKET 72 SLIPPER SOCKS 83 FELTED BOWL 95 MAKE A MANDALA

Ami u u i ove, p11

win

check out ou Tun to page 55 and you could new deigne challenge yan! ng di win Louia Ha

Fo toaty toe, p72


45

neW texTure 63

41

53

Find me on page 16

trY felTing 80 Good ReaDs

how to...

09 HOOKED 38 STEPHANIE LAU’S JOURNAL

76 YARN REVIEWS

66

Our pick of pretty pastels

Grow your confidence with cables

80 THE WORKSHOP

60 PROFILE: SARAH ZIMMERMAN

Learn all about felting

Behind Repeat Crafter Me

87 THE GUIDE

62 LEARN CROCHET SLANG 78 SHOW US YOURS! 98 MY HOOKY TREASURE

Handy step-by-steps for you

Februay mandala, p95

LY SPARK RN UNICO

P14


Over the rainbow In case you hadn’t noticed, we’re obsessed with all things unicorn this issue! Why shouldn’t we have fun with colour and hook projects that make us smile? Ilaria’s sparkly unicorn (p14) is a favourite for me, of course, but I’ve also got a soft spot for the granny treble cardi on page 32. If you’ve never crocheted a garment before, this is a brilliant one to start with. Ooh, and make sure you check out the next mandala in our series – Lucy Croft has done wonders bringing our February calendar illustration to life with love hearts (p95).

Commissioning Editor Sara Huntington Acting Art Editor Kim Saunders Technical Assistant Cara Medus Production Editor Becca Parker Digital Editor Kate Evans Cover Photography Phil Sowels Photography Philip Sowels, Jesse Wild, Dave Caudery Group Art Editor Louise Day Editor-in-Chief Debora Bradley Group Senior Editor Julie Taylor

AdvErTisInG Call 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes Account Sales Manager Rachael Hawkins Brand Sales Executive Heather Candlish

MarKeTing & SubScRipTions Direct Marketing Executive Kate Jones

CirCuLatIon

ConTrIbuTors

Head of Newstrade Marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade Marketing Manager Janine Smith

Hip hip hooray for everyone who pitched in...

ProDuCtiOn Production Controller Sarah Greenhalgh Production Manager Emma McGuinness / Siân Rodgers Production Director Sarah Powell

BuyIng Team Paul Torre, Karen Flannigan, Corinne Mellerup

LicEnSing Senior Licensing & Syndication Manager Tim Hudson

PubLiShiNg

“WE’R E EXTR EME ‘MAN CRAFTERS’ WITH A PASS ION FOR COLOU R.” BOYS AND BUNTING

Creative blogging duo Matt and Dennis have stitched a showstopping starry lampshade as part of our dreamy pastel collection this issue. Flip across to page 21 to check it out.

“I’VE JUST FINISHED CROCHETING FLOWERS FOR A WEDDING.”

Craft Publishing Director Kerry Lawrence Managing Director Bristol Andy Marshall Chairman Stephen Alexander Chief Executive Officer Tom Bureau

REBECCA ALDRIDGE

Who better to turn to for a super-cute cloud make than cloud-obsessed designer Rebecca? She’s responsible for the oh-so sleepy pyjama case on page 16. It’s just perfect.

SubScRipTions Call 0844 576 7871 or subscribe online at www.buysubscriptions.com/craft

Need to get in TouCh? EDITORIAL TEAM simplycrochet@immediate.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS TEAM simplycrochet@servicehelpline.co.uk 01795 419845

Next IssUe on Sale ThuRsday 2 MarCh 2017 No gift included? Ask your newsagent. Covergift may be unavailable overseas.

“AT THE MOMENT I’M WORKI NG ON A SERIES OF JUNGLE ANIMA LS.” TRACY COLDWELL Tracy’s something of an amigurumi specialist and we love that her designs are packed with personality. Hop over to page 45 to find her adorable rabbit toy. Spring here we come.

“I’M CU RRE NTLY CRO CHETIN A CHU NKY SHAWL .” G VICKIE HOWELL

Have you seen top US author and hookster Vickie’s gorgeous new Deramores yarns? She has designed a cosy cowl just for us using her Mod Wool. Find the pattern on page 41.

OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Vita Apala, Kirsten Ballering, Ilaria Caliri, Lucy Croft, Hannah Cross, Judy Darley, Helen Dorritt, Anne Egan, Maaike von Koert, Stephanie Lau, Fran Morgan, Jenny Reid, Becky Skuse, Kath Webber, Sarah Zimmerman

Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered office of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage.

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Giza Sorbet 4Ply 100% Giza Cotton Perfect for Crochet

King Cole Giza Sorbet 4ply, 50g ball Found in all good wool retailers For your local stockist, call: 01756 703670 email: enquiries@kingcole.com www.kingcole.com m Join us on Facebook & Twitter For every King Cole pattern you buy, a donation will be made to the Pink Ribbon Foundation. Patterns Featured: 4789 & 4790


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Magical mystery New from House of Wonderland (www.how-store.com) is a mystery charm club, where you’ll receive a special enamel charm that’s based on the month’s theme. The crochet launch theme gets a big thumbs-up from us, where lucky recipients will get this super-cute ‘Hooker for life’ charm for just £6. Clip it on a bracelet, necklace or zipper or use it as a stitch marker – the choice is yours. But be quick, as there’s only a limited number available! Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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TREND ALERT Have you heard W

MADE BY MARINA

T

hese swoonsome skeins are by fibre artist Marina Skua. She uses natural fibres to produce small batches of yarn full of character and rich in colour. Imperium, Wave Crest and Loss (pictured) are our faves. The hand-spun skeins are one-offs, but the shop is frequently updated with new colours. Head to www.marinaskua.com

New patterns

We Love... Designers and The Crochet Circle podcasters Lynne Rowe and Fay Dashper-Hughes have teamed up to produce a really unique pattern collection. Take Two features 8 stylish accessories, four by Lynne and four by Fay. The twist is, each of the patterns was then interpreted by the other designer to form a fresh design using yarn from their stash. The Phasian blanket by Lynne and the Auchincuive cowl by Fay are our favourites. As well as encouraging stashbusting, this booklet showcases beautiful British-spun wool. It'll inspire you to get creative with your yarn substitutions and play with colour. Pop over to www.lynnerowethewoolnest. etsy.com to download it now for ÂŁ10.03.

10 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

of planned colour pooling? This technique has been causing a bit of a buzz in the crochet world. You might have seen some impressive, plaid-style hooky creations popping up in your social media feeds. In a nutshell, it's all about calculating the length of the colour repeats in variegated yarn and using that data to create regular geometic patterns. Learn how to use this colourwork method next issue!

SAY HELLO TO HYGGE

The Scheepjes 2017 crochet-along kicks off this month and the project is a real gem. Have you seen it? Danish hookster Kirsten Ballering (www.haakmaarraak.nl) has designed Hygge, a Scandinavian-inspired wrap brimming with delicious detail. There are bobbles, surface crochet and even delicate cross stitching. The whole thing's hooked in the ever-popular Stonewashed yarn by Scheepjes and their Catona cotton. There are three glorious Hygge kits to choose from – Rainbow (pictured), Jewel and Pastel. Patterns are available in UK and US terms, Swedish and Dutch, and there'll be video tutorials, too. Visit www.scheepjes.com for further details and flip to page 66 to see Kirsten's beautiful rainbow blanket design.


HOOKED

INSPIRING BOOKS SLIPPERS FOR THE FAMILY

LEISURE ARTS (£6.99, Leisure Arts) Everyone deserves cosy toes so this fab collection is ideal for any family. There are 10 colourful, texture-filled designs to fit a variety of feet, from babies, toddlers and children to teenagers, women and men. Some patterns include six sizes so you can make matching slippers for your family! Plus, there are bonus online tutorials.

mini profile

SUPER CUTE DESIGN

We had a good old chinwag with Jennifer Santos, the Sweden-based amigurumi stitcher behind Super Cute Design. After spotting her bright and oh-so smiley creations on Instagram, we just had to find out more about them. She told us: “I have always loved creating stuff. Crochet enables me to live out my creativity – I love that you can have an idea of what you want to make and then be able to create it with just a hook and some yarn. Even though most of the time it doesn't come out quite as I planned, I really enjoy the process of creating and I DO love yarn! I make and sell amigurumi patterns. As I have a huge sweetooth and am such a sucker for cute and colourful stuff, I make lots of yummy rainbow things with happy faces. I believe that creative inspiration can be found everywhere! I've found inspiration

RAINBOW CROCHETED BLANKETS

before from my children, from cartoons, even from the grocery store. Ha ha! My favourite crochet make? I tend to like the thing I made most recently the best! If I had to choose just one thing, I think it would have to be my amigurumi gingerbread men." You can see Jennifer's latest creations on Instagram @supercutedesign and buy patter s at www.supercutedesignshop.etsy.co

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Mrs Sheila Leete, Glossop Mrs K.B. Langford, Stockport Mrs Gail Holmes, King's Lynn

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Every month, three subscribers win a prize as a thank you for their loyalty to Simply Crochet. This month, the winners (below) will each receive this Stylecraft blanket yarn and pattern set.

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Immediate Media Company, publishers of Simply Crochet, Subs Stars giveaway terms and conditions. Prizes were dispatched before the on sale date of this issue. There are no cash alternatives. Three winning entries will be chosen at random from all current subscribers. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

AMANDA PERKINS (£12.99, Search Press) Bringing all her expertise with colour and dyeing yarns, Amanda Perkins has created a collection of motifs to create 10 rainbow blankets. The starting chapter includes some colour theory, followed by blanket patterns, each with a chart, diagrams and colour variation ideas.

BASKETS FOR ALL

VARIOUS DESIGNERS (£6.99, Annie's) Whether it’s for storage, display or as a gift, there are 14 brilliant basket designs to choose from in this pattern book. There are interesting colour patterns and stitches to inspire you, including checks, lacework, chevron stripes and v-shapes, plus an adorable owl basket. Each design includes charts as well as written instructions and most come in different sizes.

POMPOM CRAFTS

ALISON HOWARD (£5.99, GMC Books) Crafting pompoms has become a bit of an art form in its own right. This great-value book offers the perfect place to start pompom crafts with 17 achievable projects, including cute characters and home makes. As well as yarn, you’ll also need felt, glue and pipe cleaners to add the finishing touches.


FOLD HERE W Crafty print, neon

win

A GRAND DAY OUT

C

alling all West Country crafters! The Craft4Crafters spring show is being held from 6-8 April at the Bath and West Showground in Somerset, with exhibitors from the world of yarn, fabric and more. You’ll find over 100 local and national businesses selling their wares, plus there’s the chance to join in workshops and demos. Sound good? We’ve got 10 pairs of tickets to give away. Visit http://competition.immediate.co.uk/sc54show

details and a fluffy pompom? You've found your new project pouch. This beauty from Sparrow + Wolf (www. sparrowandwolf. co.uk) is yours for £18. It's lined with neon fabric too and is roomy enough for stashing hooks and notions or your latest on-the-go make. Take your pick from three different sizes and three origami prints. If you're smitten wit this, check out Sparrow + Wolf's matching cushions and notebooks.

AMIGURUMI

Wisdom teeth

We love finding organic and sustainable craft items. Step forward BruDiy, which new yarn produces eco-friendly crochet goodies. These cute teeth, baby toys Designer Jenny King has her own line of yarn, containing a bag of fragrant, soothing herbs, will and she’s launched a new addition. Fantasy help a little one sleep when they has a black cotton core wrapped with hints start cutting their pearly whites. of pink, lime and mauve, giving a textured Made with 100% organic effect. To celebrate the arrival of Fantasy, Jenny's giving away a free pattern with each bamboo yarn, and available in three designs, guarantee sweet order – choose from a cardigan, vest and slumber by buying one for £13.94 more. While she's based in Australia, with a at www.brudiy.etsy.com 50g ball retailing at AUD6.60, she does ship to the UK. www.jennykingdesigns.com

WooLly FanTasy

12 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Awards

ANDTHEWINNERIS…

Our new British Craft Awards celebrate the best of the UK's creative talent, and the 2017 winners will be announced at the CHSI Stitches industry event later this month. There were almost 6000 votes cast for nominees in the yarn craft categories, so thanks to those who shared their thoughts. Curious about who'll get a gong? To see if your favourite designers, bloggers, suppliers and yarnies win big, see www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk


HOOKED

5 FAB FINDS Unicorns and rainbows Fanciful treats to satisfy your inner dreamer.

FABULOUS FIBRES

You’ll definitely want to schedule a trip to Wonderwool Wales this year. Taking place from 22-23 April at the Royal Welsh Showground in Builth Wells, it’s a joyous celebration of wool and natural fibres, with the chance to learn new skills, meet yarn producers and top up your stash with artisan yarns. You can join in a huge range of workshops through the Woolschool programme, featuring fantastic felting, perfect plying and scintillating spinning. There’s also the yarn world’s take on the catwalk, The Sheepwalk, plus demonstrations, havea-go sessions and hands-on activities. To check out the line-up and buy tickets, head to www.wonderwoolwales.co.uk

1

IF I WAS A UNICORN For hand-dyed yarns fit for a fairy tale, The Wool Kitchen is top notch. Their aptly-named 'If I Was a Unicorn' British aran weight yarn is what we've been fantasizing about lately. Go shopping at www.thewoolkitchen.etsy.com

2

SUNNY SIDE Kate Bruning's designs all seem to have a whisper of magic about them. Find this cushion trio in issue 47. Turn to p94 for details of our back issues.

out & about

drEaminG big Napkins may have been good enough for JK Rowling, but our note-taking tastes are a little more refined. You can’t jot down million-dollar ideas just anywhere. Pick up this Dreams and Schemes notebook for £5 at www.gsashop.co.uk. All purchases support the Glasgow School of Art.

Skills, shows & events MAR 2-5 Spring Knitting & Stitching Show £13, Olympia, London www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com

3

PUT A RING ON IT What better warden to guard your gems than a unicorn? It's the gold horn and stars that clinch it for us. Grab this ceramic ring dish from www. rigbyandmac.com

VERY STRIKING Pretty pastels and metallics are a winning combo whatever the weather. Be bold with a pink clutch bag from www. tkmaxx.com

4

MAR 4 Experimental Crochet Workshop £35, Jane Bowler Studio, Stratford, London www.janebowler.co.uk

MAR 10-11 Edinburgh Yarn Festival £TBC, Corn Exchange, www.edinyarnfest.com MAR 16 Beginners Crochet £25, Stitched By You, Alton www.stitchedbyyou.co.uk

MAR25 Easter Crochet for Beginners £39.99, Folly Lodge Studio, Surrey www.follylodgestudio.co.uk

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

ESSENTIAL GLITZ Is it really a party if there's no confetti? Hot foot it to www. candleandcake. co.uk to get stocked up. The Unicorn Mix Tissue Confetti is hard to beat.

5

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Capture a sprinkling of magic and sparkle with this super-cute unicorn by Ilaria Caliri. Don’t stop believing.


Amigurumi unicorn Bring the mythical to life. This adorable amigurumi design includes a glittery horn and curly rainbow mane and tail. Dreamy.

EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Yarn from your free kit, or oddments of DK yarn in white, rainbow shades and gold Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Safety eyes Q Stitch markers Q Toy stuffing

MEASUREMENTS 15cm (6in) tall and 12cm (4žin) long

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

NOTES The pattern is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off the round with a ss. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work. All the pieces are worked separately and then sewn onto the body. HEAD With white, make a magic loop. Rnd 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Rnd 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Rnds 3-4 Dc in each st around. Rnd 5 (2dc in next st, 1dc) 6 times. [18 sts] Rnd 6 3dc, (2dc in next st, 2dc) 3 times, 6dc. [21 sts] Rnd 7 3dc, (2dc in next st, 3dc) 3 times, 6dc. [24 sts] Rnd 8 3dc, (2dc in next st, 4dc) 3 times, 6dc. [27 sts] Rnds 9-13 Dc in each st around. Secure eyes between Rnds 7 and 8, approx 8 sts apart. Stuff Head with toy stuffing and continue stuffing as you go. Rnd 14 (7dc, dc2tog) 3 times. [24 sts] Rnd 15 (2dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts] Rnd 16 (1dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts] Rnd 17 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. EARS (MAKE 2) With white, ch4. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [3 sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch1, skip first st, 2dc, turn. [2 sts] Row 4 Ch1, skip first st, 1dc. [1 st] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing Ears to the Head between Rnds 13 and 14.

Simply untwist the rainbow yarn strands to create the unicorn’s crinkly mane and tail. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

HORN With gold, ch7. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [6 sts] Row 2 Ch1, skip first st, 5dc, turn. [5 sts] Row 3 Ch1, skip first st, 4dc, turn. [4 sts] Row 4 Ch1, skip first st, 3dc, turn. [3 sts] Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 6 Ch1, skip first st, 2dc, turn. [2 sts] Row 7 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. [2 sts] Row 8 Ch1, skip first st, 1dc, turn. [1 st] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Fold piece in half and sew sides tog, then

sew to Head between Rnds 9 and 11. BODY With white, make a magic loop. Rnd 1 Ch1, 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Rnd 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Rnd 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc) 6 times. [18 sts] Rnds 4-8 Dc in each st around. Rnd 9 (5dc, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [21 sts] Rnd 10 (6dc, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [24 sts] Rnds 11-13 Dc in each st around. Rnd 14 (2dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts] Stuff Body with toy stuffing and continue stuffing as you go. Rnd 15 (1dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts] Rnd 16 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. NECK With white, ch8, ss in first ch to join into a ring. Rnd 1 Ch1, dc in each ch around. [8 sts] Rnds 2 Dc in each st around. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing Neck to Head between Rnds 9 and 11. Stuff with toy stuffing, then sew to Body between Rnds 3 and 5. FORELEG (MAKE 2) With white, make a magic loop. Rnd 1 Ch1, 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Rnds 2-8 Dc in each st around. Stuff lightly. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing Legs to Body between Rnds 4 and 5. HIND LEGS (MAKE 2) With white, make a magic loop. Rnd 1 Ch1, 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Rnds 2-7 Dc in each dc around. Stuff lightly. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing Legs to Body between Rnds 12 and 13. MANE AND TAIL Cut rainbow yarns in half and in half again. You will have 4 pieces of each colour (approx 25cm each). Use 2 pieces of each colour for Mane and 2 for Tail. For Mane, fold each piece in half and knot it to Head like a fringe; use a crochet hook to pull loop of yarn through, and put ends of yarn through loop. Secure them behind Horn, using 2 pieces for each rnd starting from back of Horn for 6 rnds. Create the curl effect by splitting yarn into strands; they will be naturally curly. For tail, use a leftover piece of white, and knot all 12 coloured pieces tog in the middle as tightly as possible, leaving an end of white for sewing to Body. Create curl effect as for Mane. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 15


PASTEL IDEAS

Head in the clouds

Dreamy makes for a bedroom or nursery in pretty pastel cotton. Yep, it’s all unicorns and rainbows from here.


ForTy WinKs At first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking this sleepy cloud was merely a cushion. Not so. It’s a cute button-up case for tucking a pair of favourite jammies away in during the day. Sweet dreams are made of this.

up, up and Away Fun to stitch and dripping with whimsy, this statement hoop is a real work of art. The hot air balloons are deliciously three-dimensional and, when hung slightly away from the wall, will twist gently on their strings.


PASTEL IDEAS

I’m a BelIever We’re well aware that traditionally unicorns don’t have wings (that would be Pegasus), but we’re not going to let that spoil our fun. These fantastical slippers are definitely on the wacky side but they’re a must-have for the princesses and mermaids of this world.

Over the RaiNbow Channel your inner Cinderella and get busy tidying. This sweet set of rainbow-topped baskets in four different sizes will make the chore more bearable and you can nest them neatly together when they’re empty. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 19


PASTEL IDEAS

Hung up on you With this handy hanger, you’ll be able to actually see all of your jewellery and quickly grab it while you’re getting ready. So long, nasty knots. It’ll work just as well for organising scarves and bags, too.

TwiNkle, TwiNkle You’ll need to hook 84 simple stars to create this stunning stellar lampshade. It’s a showstopping crochet constellation for your home! If you like, you can switch up the yarn shades to match your own décor. The sky’s the limit. 20 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM


PASTEL IDEAS

Cloud pyjama case

Rebecca Aldridge’s cute and quirky cloud make acts as a cushion when it’s filled. Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton, 50g/100m), 4 balls of White (18), 1 ball of each: Light Blue (02), Light Mint (20), Lilac (04), Peach (10), Light Yellow (07) and Black (17) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Five 1.5cm (¾in) buttons

TENSION 17 sts and 20 rows to measure approx 10x10cm (4x4in) over double crochet using a 4mm hook. Tension is not critical but will affect finished measurements and yarn quantities.

MEASUREMENTS Approx 39x27cm (15¼x10¾in)

ABBREVIATIONS Spike st Insert hook from front into corresponding st that is 2 rows below next st, complete as a double crochet st CLOUD

FRONT Using White, ch51. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in each of next 49 sts, turn. [50 sts] Row 2 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in each st to last st, 2dc in last st, turn. [52 sts] Rows 3-6 As Row 2. [60 sts after Row 6] Row 7 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 8 As Row 2. [62 sts] Row 9 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 10 As Row 2. [64 sts]

Row 11 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 12 As Row 2. [66 sts] Rows 13-16 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 17 As Row 2. [68 sts] Rows 18-24 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 25 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [66 sts] Rows 26-34 As Row 25. [48 sts after Row 34] Row 35-40 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 41-43 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to end, turn. [45 sts] Row 44 Ch1, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [44 sts] Row 45 (RS) Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to end, turn. [43 sts] Row 46 Ch1, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [42 sts] Row 47 (Starting row of the right-hand top ‘peak’) Ch1, dc in each of next 15 sts, turn. [15 sts] Row 48 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [13 sts] Rows 49-52 Repeat last row. [5 sts at end of Row 52.] Row 53 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in next st, dc2tog. [3 sts] Keep RS facing and ss along edge of decrease rows to base of ‘peak’, which will bring you back level with Row 47. Row 54 Ch1, dc in each rem st from Row 46 to end, turn. [27 sts] Row 55 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to end, turn. [26 sts] Row 56 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [24 sts]

Rep last row until there are 6 sts rem. Fasten off.

BACK Work Rows 1-22 as given for Front. [68 sts] Row 23 (Button loop row – 5 in total) Ch1, dc in each of next 20 sts, ch7, ss in same st at base of ch-7 to form button loop, (dc in each of next 7 sts, ch7, ss in same st at base of ch-7) 4 times, dc in each of next 20 sts, turn. [68 sts and 5 ch-7 button loops] Row 24 (To create opening) Ch1, dc in each of next 15 sts, ch38, skip next 38 sts, ss in next st, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st as ss and in each of next 14 sts, turn. [68 sts] Row 25 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 13 sts, dc in each ch, dc in each of next 13 sts, dc2tog, turn. [66 sts] Rows 26-65 As given for Rows 26 to end of Front. Sew buttons into place above the corresponding loops. CHEEKS (MAKE 2) Using Light Mint, make a magic loop. Round 1 7dc into loop, ss to first dc to join. [7 sts] Fasten off. Round 2 Join Lilac to any st, ch1, 2dc in same st, (2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [14 sts] Fasten off. Round 3 Join Light Yellow to any st, ch1, dc in same st, 2dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [21 sts] Fasten off. Round 4 Join Light Blue to any st, ch1, dc in same st, dc in next st, 2dc in next st, (dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next stitch) 6 times, ss to first dc. [28 sts] Round 5 Ch1, dc in same stitch, dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, (dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [35 sts] Fasten off. Round 6 Join Peach to any st, ch1, dc in

22 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM


same st, dc in each of next 2 sts, spike st in next st 2 rows below, 2dc in next st, (dc in each of next 3 sts, spike stitch in next st 2 rows below, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [42 sts] Fasten off. FACE Pin cheeks in place using image as a guide. Using Black, sew sleepy eyes using back stitch (approx 11 sts wide, 3 rows high). TO FINISH Block if desired. When dry, pin the 2 sides tog. Using White, ss around the clouds to join edges tog. Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew buttons to opening to correspond with button loops.

Hot air balloon hoop

Hook dreamy statement wall art for a bedroom or nursery. By Sara Huntington. Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton; 50g/100m), 1 ball of each: White (18), Light Blue (02), Light Mint (20), Lilac (04), Peach (10), Light Yellow (07) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook (Baskets only) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A large embroidery hoop (54cm diameter) Q Toy stuffing Q Small amount of felt in coordinating colours Q White drawing pins

MEASUREMENTS The finished decoration measures the size of the frame (54cm/21¼in) Measurements for the individual elements are given in the pattern instructions BALLOONS (MAKE 5) Balloon and Basket are 14cm (5½in) high. The Balloon is made from shaped sections that are joined at the straight edge only, and then fanned out and joined so that the sections form a 3D shape with the join at the core. Using a 3.5mm hook and Light Yellow, ch16. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [15 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), working in bl; dc in next 3 sts, htr in next st, tr in next 2 sts, dtr in next 2 sts, (2dtr in next st, dtr in next st,) twice, tr in next st, htr in next st, dc in last st. Fasten off. With same side facing, rotate work 180 degrees so the sts from Row 2 are on the bottom. Using Peach, rejoin yarn to Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

the first rem loop (corresponding to the last dc from Row 2). Row 3 Working in rem loops from Row 2, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 4 Repeat Row 2. Repeat (Rows 3 & 4) 3 more times in the following colour sequence: Light Mint Light Blue Lilac Rep the whole 5-colour sequence again 3 more times. Fasten off and weave in ends. [20 sections] Sew sides tog to form a tube. Gather wider end with a running st, pull closed. Stuff balloon lightly through narrow end and pull this partially closed with a running st and secure.

Round 1 Dc in second ch from hook and each ch to end, rotate to work in other side of foundation ch and dc in each st to end. [18 sts] Round 2 (2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts) twice. [20 sts] Round 3 Ss into first st, ch3 (counts as tr), 6tr into same st, *skip next dc, ss into next dc, skip next dc, 7tr into next st; repeat from * 3 more times, skip next dc, ss into next dc, skip next dc, ss into base of beg ch-3 to close. Fasten off. Take a pair of Clouds, turning one of them

BALLOON BASKETS Make 5, one in each colour. Using a 3mm hook, make a magic loop. Work in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss: Round 1 6dc into loop. Round 2 2dc into each st. [12 sts] Round 3 Dc bl in each st around. Rounds 4-5 Dc in each st around. Ss into next st. Fasten off and weave in ends. Secure the Basket to the Balloon with four evenly spaced strings approx 3cm long. CLOUDS (MAKE 12) Clouds measure 8x6cm (3x2¼in). Using a 3.5mm hook and White, ch10. Work in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 23


Q Stitch markers

TENSION Not critical as slipper cover will stretch to fit sole

MEASUREMENTS Slipper cover fits UK foot size 4-7 (25cm (9žin) length)

NOTES The ch1 at the beg of a row or round does not count as a st. Slipper Tops are worked in rounds that are joined. Add Eyes, Ears, Horn and Nose to Unicorn Head before sewing Head to slipper base. Use a 3.5mm hook throughout unless told otherwise. Apart from Inner Ears and Wings, Unicorn Head parts are worked continuously in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first st of each round, moving it up as you work. over so the shapes match. Join Light Yellow to the first tr of any 7-tr group, working through both Clouds to join; *dc in next 7 tr, spike st into dc from Round 2; rep from * four more times. Fasten off and weave in ends. Rep using a different shade for each edge until all Clouds are joined. TO MAKE UP Using the inside section of the frame, measure and mark 5 evenly spaced points on the top and corresponding marks on the bottom. These indicate where to secure the strings. Drill a small hole though the centre of the inside frame to correspond with the marks. Twisting two lengths of yarn tog, secure them through a bottom hole and thread the end onto a needle. Pass the needle through the centre of a Cloud, a Basket and Balloon, and for the centre string only, another Cloud. Pull string very tight so it is taut vertically across the frame and secure through the corresponding top hole. Position the Balloons and Clouds by putting some fabric glue around that section of the string and sliding into position. Lightly stuff the Basket and glue a circle of felt on the top cutting a slit to fit around the string. Rep four more times until you have 5 vertical strings in position. STARS Stars measure 6cm (2Âźin) diameter. Make 10, two in each colour. With a 3.5mm hook, make a magic loop. Work in a spiral without closing off each 24 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

round with a ss. Round 1 5dc into loop. Round 1 2dc into each st around. [10 dc] Round 2 *Ss into next st, ch4, dc into second ch from hook, htr into next ch, tr into next ch, skip next dc of Round 1; rep from * four more times [5 points made], ss into first st. Fasten off and weave in ends. Make a chain length to join the Stars together as follows: Using a 3.5mm hook and White, ch5, ss in the point of a Star, making sure the RS of the Star is facing, (ch10, ss to point of next Star) rep until all Stars are joined, ch5. Fasten off. Attach Stars to top of hoop using drawing pins and image as a guide. Attach outer hoop, fastening securely and adding a crochet loop to top for hanging.

Unicorn slippers

The ultimate loungewear accessory for princesses everywhere. By Hannah Cross. Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton, 50g/100m), 4 balls of White (18), 1 ball of each: Light Blue (02), Light Mint (20), Lilac (04), Peach (10), Light Yellow (07) and Black (17) Q DROPS Glitter (10g/700m), 1 spool of Silver (02) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A 1mm (US 10 steel) hook (Eyes only) Q Flip-flop or slipper soles in sizes UK 4-7 Q Toy stuffing for head and horn Q 2 pieces of white felt the same size as the slipper upper

SOLES

TOPS (MAKE 2) Using White, ch21. Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each of next 18 ch, 2dc in last ch, rotate to continue working along opposite side of chain, dc in each of next 19 ch, ss to first dc to join. [40 sts] Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 18 sts, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 18 sts, 2dc in next st, ss to first dc. [44 sts] Round 3 Ch1, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 12 sts, htr in each of next 6


PASTEL IDEAS

sts, 2tr in each of next 4 sts, htr in each of next 6 sts, dc in each of next 12 sts, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, ss to first dc. [52 sts] Round 4 Ch1, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 14 sts, htr in each of next 6 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in each of next 4 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in each of next 6 sts, dc in each of next 14 sts, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, ss to first dc. [60 sts] Round 5 Ch1, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, htr in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 14 sts, htr in each of next 6 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in each of next 8 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in each of next 6 sts, dc in each of next 14 sts, htr in each of next 2 sts, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, ss to first htr. [72 sts] Round 6 Ch1, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, htr in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 14 sts, htr in each of next 6 sts, tr in each of next 6 sts, 2tr in each of next 8 sts, tr in each of next 6 sts, htr in each of next 6 sts, dc in each of next 14 sts, htr in each of next 4 sts, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, ss to first htr. [84 sts] Round 7 Ch1, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, htr in each of next 6 sts, dc in each of next 14 sts, htr in each of next 12 sts, tr in each of next 4 sts, 2tr in each of next 8 sts, tr in each of next 4 sts, htr in each of next 12 sts, dc in each of next 14 sts, htr in each of next 6 sts, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, ss to first htr. [96 sts] Round 8 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc. [96 sts] Fasten off.

BOTTOMS (MAKE 2) Using Light Yellow, ch21. Work Rounds 1-8 as given for Slipper Top in the following colour order and changing colour on yrh of ss join. Round 1 Light Yellow Round 2 Light Yellow Round 3 Peach Round 4 Lilac Round 5 Light Mint Round 6 Light Blue Round 7 White Round 8 White Fasten off. Place a Slipper Top and Bottom over the flip-flop soles (with RS outermost) and join using White, working dc in bl of each set of sts around. SLIPPER UPPER (MAKE 2) Identify the front 65 sts of the Slipper Sole and place a stitch marker at each end. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

With the front of the Slipper Sole facing you, join White to fl of the marked stitch on the right-hand side. Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in fl of each st around, turn. [65 sts] Rows 2-3 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [61 sts at end of Row 3] Row 4 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 20 sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, tr in each of next 5 sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 20 sts, dc2tog, turn. [53 sts] Row 5 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 16 sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, tr in each of next 5 sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 16 sts, dc2tog, turn. [45 sts] Row 6 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 12 sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, tr in each of next 5 sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 12 sts, dc2tog. [37 sts] Row 7 Ch1 dc2tog, dc in each of next 8 sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, tr in each of next 5 sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 8 sts, dc2tog, turn. [29 sts] Row 8 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 4 sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, tr in each of next 5 sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 4 sts, dc2tog, turn. [21 sts] Row 9 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 2 sts, (tr2tog) 3 times, dtr in next st, (tr2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [13 sts] Row 10 Ch1, dc2tog, (tr2tog) twice, dtr in next st, (tr2tog) twice, dc2tog. [7 sts] Cut the white felt to shape and slot into the Slipper to add strength and shape. With a strand of Light Mint and Glitter held tog, ss around the join of the soles. Repeat this round with Light Blue and Glitter. Ss around the edge of the Upper with Peach and Glitter, continuing the edging around the heel, and working above the edging rounds just worked. Work another edging round in the same fashion below the Light Blue round using Lilac.

2 sts) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 10 (2dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 11 (2dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 12 (2dc in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts) 6 times. [42 sts] Round 13 Dc in each st around. Round 14 (Dc2tog, dc in each of next 5 sts) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 15 Dc in each st around. Round 16 (Dc2tog, dc in each of next 4 sts) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 17 Dc in each st around. Round 18 (Dc2tog, dc in each of next 3 sts) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 19 Dc in each st around. Round 20 (Dc2tog, dc in each of next 2 sts) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 21 Dc in each st around. Stuff with toy stuffing. Round 22 (Dc2tog, dc in next st) 6 times. [12 sts] Round 23 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts] Fasten off. OUTER EAR (MAKE 4) Using White, ch2. Round 1 (RS) 3dc in second ch from hook. [3 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [6 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 3 times. [9 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next, dc in each of next 2 sts) 3 times. [12 sts] Rounds 5-7 Dc in each st around. Round 8 (Dc2tog, dc in next st) 4 times.

UNICORN HEAD (MAKE 2) Using White, ch2. Round 1 (RS) 6dc in second ch from hook. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 Dc in each st around. Round 6 (Dc2tog, dc in each of next 2 sts) 6 times. [18 sts] Rounds 7-8 Dc in each st around. Round 9 (2dc in next st, dc in each of next WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 25


PASTEL IDEAS

Row 4 Ch1, dc in each of next 11 sts, turn leaving rem sts unworked. [11 sts] Row 5 As Row 3. Row 6 Ch1, dc in each of next 8 sts, turn leaving rem sts unworked. [8 sts] Row 7 Ch1, dc in next st, htr in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts, htr in next st, 2htr in last st, rotate to work along short side, 2tr in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in each of next 2 sts. [15 sts] Fasten off. Pinch end tog and sew in place. TO FINISH Add a mane to each Head by tying full strands of yarn in every colour down the back of the Head. Use a fine needle to separate the strands of the yarn.

Rainbow baskets [8 sts] Fasten off. Flatten and shape.

Black, using image as a guide.

INNER EAR (MAKE 4) Using Peach, ch5. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in next ch, htr in each of next 2 ch. [4 sts] Fasten off. Sew to Outer Ear and shape. Sew 2 Ears to each Head.

HORNS (MAKE 2) Using Light Yellow and a strand of Glitter held together, ch2. Round 1 3dc in second ch from hook. [3 sts] Round 2 2dc in bl of each st around. [6 sts] Rounds 3-4 Dc in bl of each st around. Round 5 (2dc in bl of next st, dc in bl of next st) 3 times. [9 sts] Rounds 6-9 Dc in bl of each st around. [9 sts] Fasten off and sew in place.

EYES (MAKE 4) For the Eyes, split yarn to only use 3 single strands and a 1mm hook. Using Light Blue, ch2. Round 1 (RS) 6dc in second ch from hook. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around, changing to Lilac on last yrh of last dc. [12 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 6 times, changing to Lilac on last yrh of last dc. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts) 3 times, changing to White on last yrh of last dc, in White (2dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts) 3 times. [24 sts] Fasten off.

PUPIL Using Black, work as given for Rounds 1-2 of Eye. Fasten off. Sew Pupil to inner corner of Eye. Using 2 strands of White, add pupil highlights. Sew Eyes onto Head, add eyelashes and nostrils using 2 strands of 26 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

WINGS (MAKE 4) Using Light Yellow and a strand of Glitter held together, ch16. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end. [15 sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each of next 13 sts, turn leaving rem sts unworked. [13 sts] Row 3 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.

Make tidying up more fun with Anne Egan’s set of colourful storage baskets. Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton, 50g/100m), 3 balls of White (18), 1 ball of each: Lilac (04), Light Blue (02), Light Mint (20), Light Yellow (07), Peach (10) Q A 6mm (US J/10) hook Q A stitch marker

MEASUREMENTS Diameters of pots from Large to Extra Small: 12cm (4¾in), 10cm (4in), 9cm (3½in), 8cm (3in) Heights of pots from Large to Extra Small: 12cm (4¾in), 10cm (4in), 9cm (3½in), 8cm (3in)

NOTES The Pots are worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. All Pots are made using 2 strands of each colour held tog. Change colour in the last yrh of last st of prev round. LARGE POT Using 2 strands of Yarn A held tog, ch2.


PASTEL IDEAS

Round 1 6dc in 2nd ch from hook. Round 2 2dc in each dc around. [12 dc] Round 3 (Dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) around. [18 dc] Round 4 (Dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc) around. [24 dc] Round 5 (Dc in next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc) around. [30 dc] Round 6 (Dc in next 4 dc, 2dc in next dc) around. [36 dc] Round 7 (Dc in next 5 dc, 2dc in next dc) around. [42 dc] Round 8 (Dc in next 6 dc, 2dc in next dc) around. [48 dc] Rounds 9-15 Dc in each dc around. Round 16 Dc in each dc around, change to Lilac in last yrh of last st of round. Round 17 (Dc in next 9 dc, ch9, skip 7 dc, dc in next 8 dc) twice, change to Light Blue. Round 18 *(Dc in next 8 dc, dc2tog (working into next dc and next ch), dc in next ch, 2dc in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, 2dc in next ch, dc in next ch, dc2tog (working into next ch and next dc), dc in next 7 dc; rep from * once more, change to Light Mint. Round 19 *Dc in next 7 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 6 dc; rep from * once more, change to Light Yellow. Round 20 *Dc in next 6 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 5 dc, rep from * once more, change to Peach. Round 21 *Dc in next 5 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 4 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 4 dc, rep from * once more. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

next ch, 2dc in next ch, dc in next ch, 2dc in next ch, dc in next ch, dc2tog (working into next ch and next dc), dc in next 7 dc; rep from * once more. Round 17 *Dc in next 6 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 6 dc; rep from * once more. Round 18 *Dc in next 5 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 5 dc; rep from * once more. Round 19 *Dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 4 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 4 dc; rep from * once more. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

(working into next dc and next ch), 2dc in next ch, dc in next ch, 2dc in next ch, dc2tog (working into next ch and next dc), dc in next 6 dc; rep from * once more. Round 15 *Dc in next 6 dc, dc2tog, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in next 5 dc; rep from * once more. Round 16 *Dc in next 5 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 4 dc; rep from * once more. Round 17 *Dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 3 dc, rep from * once more. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

HANDLE EDGE

HANDLE EDGE

Join Lilac in first skipped st of Round 14, ss in each of the 5 skipped sts. Fasten off and weave in ends. Rep for other handle.

Join Lilac in first skipped st of Round 12, ss in each of the 3 skipped sts. Fasten off and weave in ends. Rep for other handle.

SMALL POT Work as for Large Pot to end of Round 6. [36 dc] Rounds 7 to 12 Dc in each dc around. Work the following rounds using the same colour sequence as the Large Pot. Round 13 (Dc in next 8 dc, ch5, skip 3 dc, dc in next 7 dc) twice. Round 14 *(Dc in next 7 dc, dc2tog

EXTRA SMALL POT Work as for Large Pot to end of Round 5. [30 dc] Rounds 6-10 Dc in each dc around. Work the following rounds using the same colour sequence as the Large Pot. Round 11 (Dc in next 6 dc, ch4, skip 2 dc, dc in next 7 dc) twice. Round 12 *(Dc in next 5 dc, dc2tog

HANDLE EDGE Join Lilac in first skipped st of Round 16, ss in each of the 7 skipped sts. Fasten off and weave in ends. Rep for other handle. MEDIUM POT Work as for Large Pot to end of Round 7. [42 dc] Rounds 8-14 Dc in each dc around. Work the following rounds using the same colour sequence as the Large Pot. Round 15 (Dc in next 8 dc, ch7, skip 5 dc, dc in next 8 dc) twice. Round 16 *(Dc in next 7 dc, dc2tog (working into next dc and next ch), dc in Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 27


PASTEL IDEAS

MEASUREMENTS Each star measures 6.5cm (2½in) dia Diameter of finished lamp, 55cm (21½in) STARS Make 84 in total, using the colours evenly. You might find the yarn quantities a little tight, so keep your yarn tails short. With your yarn shade of choice, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr into loop, ch1, (3tr into loop, ch1) 4 times, ss into top of beg ch-3. [15 sts] Round 2 *Ch5, dc in second ch from hook, htr in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in next ch, ss in next ch-1 sp from prev round; rep from * 4 more times. [5 points] Round 3 *Ss into each rem loop of ch-5, ch1, ss in bl of next 5 sts; rep from * 4 more times. Fasten off and weave in ends.

(working into next dc and next ch), dc in next ch, 2dc in next ch, dc2tog (working into next ch and next dc), dc in next 6 dc; rep from * once more. Round 13 *Dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in next 5 dc; rep from * once more. Round 14 *Dc in next 3 dc, dc2tog, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in next 4 dc; rep from * once more. Round 15 *Dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * once more. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

MEASUREMENTS To fit 5cm (2in) dia knob

Join Lilac in first skipped st of Round 10, ss in each of the 2 skipped sts. Fasten off and weave in ends. Rep for other handle.

COVER Make 4, one in each of the Yarn B shades. With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), (dc, ch1) into loop 6 times, ss to first dc. Fasten off. [6 dc, 6 ch-1 sps] Round 2 Join Yarn B in any ch-sp, ch1, 2dc in each ch-sp around, ss to first dc. [12 dc] Round 3 Ch1, (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [18 dc] Round 4 Ch1, (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [24 dc] Rounds 5-7 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc. Fit the cover before continuing. Round 8 Ch1, (dc2tog) 6 times, ss to first dc. [12 dc] Round 9 Ch1, (1dc, dc2tog) 4 times, ss to first dc. Pull tight to fit at base. Fasten off.

Jewellery hanger

Starry lampshade

HANDLE EDGE

Keep pearls and pendants tangle-free with Sara Huntington’s simple tidy. Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton 50g/100m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A White (18), Yarn B shades: Light Blue (02), Lilac (04), Light Mint (20), Light Yellow (07) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A wooden hanging rack with drawer knobs 28 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

A showstopping shade that’s out of this world. Designed by Boys and Bunting. Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton 50g/100m), 1 ball of each: Light Blue (02), Lilac (04), Light Mint (20), Light Yellow (07), Peach (10) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q An Ikea Maskros pendant lamp, 55cm Q Craft glue

TO MAKE UP Assemble the lamp according to the instructions, omitting the ‘flowers’ on the ends of the spikes. Glue a star in place on the end of each spike, spreading the colours as evenly as possible.

Wool Warehouse 01926882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk


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Psst

Give o vibe  withre t  o m e  ino m th i  ak e


Granny cardi

A good vintage What do you get if you mix rainbow stripes and granny trebles? A jolly fab cardi by Fran Morgan.

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WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 33


Granny cardi Team rainbow stripes with soft grey for a round-neck cardi with buckets of vintage charm. Fran Morgan’s treble-tastic design has playful contrasting buttons, too.

EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

3MM 3.5MM

NOTES Back and Front are worked bottom up in 1 section to armholes, then divided for Fronts and Back. Sleeves are made separately and sewn in. When working the stripe sequence, fasten off each colour at the end of each row and turn work, this gives a better finish. When working the Sleeves in the round, turn at the end of each round to match Body.

YOU WILL NEED Q

King Cole Merino Blend 4ply (100% wool, 50g/180m) Yarn A Silver (36) (see table) Yarn B shades: 1 ball of each: Mustard (1773) Stone (904) Scarlet (9) Rose Petal (1533) Fuchsia (787) Forget Me Not (1536) Fern (854), Sage (853) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q Tapestry needle Q 7 small buttons For yarn stockists contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com

BACK AND FRONT Using a 3mm hook and Yarn A, ch172(199: 223: 247). Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each st to end, turn. [171(198: 222: 246) sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rep last row twice more. Change to a 3.5mm hook. STITCH PATTERN Row 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr throughout), tr in st at base of ch, (skip 2 sts, 3tr in next st) to last 3 sts, skip 2 sts, 2tr in last st. Fasten off, turn. [58 (66: 74: 82) tr groups; 2-tr at beg and end of row each count as groups] Join Yarn B in 1st st, and work each Row 2 of patt using one of Yarn B colours in the foll sequence: Mustard, Stone, Scarlet, Rose Petal, Fuchsia, Forget Me Not, Fern, Sage. Row 2 Ch3, (3tr in sp before next 3-tr group) to last 2-tr group, 3-tr in sp before last 2-tr group, tr in top of beg ch-3. Fasten off, turn. [57 (65: 73: 81) tr groups;

TENSION 20tr and 11 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over patt using a 3.5mm hook or size required to obtain tension

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

c b

ACTUAL BUST

LENGTH

a Width a: 45 (51: 57: 63)cm 17¾ (20: 22½: 24¾)in Sleeve Length b: 45 (45: 45: 47)cm 18 (18: 18: 18½)in Body Length c: 50 (52: 53.5: 55.5)cm 19½ (20½: 21: 22)in 34 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

SLEEVE LENGTH YARN A

the tr at beg and end of row do not count as groups] Row 3 With Yarn A, ch3, tr in st at base of ch, skip first 3-tr group, (3tr in sp before next 3-tr group) to last 3-tr group, skip last 3-tr group, 2tr in top of beg ch-3. Fasten off, turn. [58 (66: 74: 82) tr groups] Rows 2 and 3 form pattern. Cont in patt until work meas approx 30cm ending on a Row 2. DIVIDE FOR ARMHOLES RIGHT FRONT Cont working in pattern as set. Row 1 (RS) Patt 12 (14: 15: 17) tr groups (counting beg 2-tr as a group), 2tr in space between next two groups, turn and cont on these sts for Right Front. [13 (15: 16: 18) tr groups] Row 2 (Decrease row) Join yarn in last tr of prev row. Ch3, skip first space, 3tr in next sp and work as Row 2 of patt to end, turn. [11 (13: 14: 16) tr groups] Row 3 Patt to last 3-tr group, work 2tr into sp between 3-tr group and beg ch-3, turn. [12 (14: 15: 17) tr groups] Rep the last 2 rows twice more. [10 (12: 13:

8-10

12-14

16-18

20-22

cm

81-86

91-97

102-107

112-117

in

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-46

cm

90

102

114

126

in

35½

40

45

49½

cm

50

52

53.5

55.5

in

19½

20½

21

22

cm

45

45

45

47

in

18

18

18

18½

50g

4

5

6

7

SIZE TO FIT BUST

Follow the colour sequence of nine Yarn B shades listed in the Stitch Pattern below.

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.


Granny cardi 15) tr groups] Work 4 (6: 8: 10) more rows in patt without shaping. SHAPE FRONT NECK Next row Patt as Row 2 to last 4 tr groups, tr in sp before next 3-tr group, turn leaving rem sts unworked. [6 (8: 9: 11) tr groups] Next row Ch3, 3tr in sp after first 3-tr group, patt to end, turn. Next row Patt as Row 2 to last 3-tr group, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. [5 (7: 8: 10) tr groups] Work in patt without shaping for a further 6 rows. SHAPE SHOULDER Next row Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, 3tr in next sp, 3htr in next 2 (4: 5: 7) sps, 2dc in next sp, dc in last st. Fasten off. BACK With RS facing skip 3 (3: 5: 5) tr groups after Right Front and rejoin yarn in next space. Row 1 Work as Patt Row 3 for 27 (31: 33: 37) tr groups, (counting beg 2-tr as a group), 2tr in next space, turn and cont on these sts for Back. [28 (32: 34: 38) tr groups] Row 2 (Decrease row) Join yarn to last tr of prev row. Ch3, skip first space, 3tr in next sp and each sp across to last sp, skip last sp, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. [25 (29: 30: 34) tr groups] Row 3 Join yarn in last st of prev row, ch3, tr in first sp, patt to last 3-tr group, 2tr in sp between last 3-tr group and beg ch-3, turn. [26 (30: 31: 35) tr groups] Rep the last 2 rows twice more. [22 (26: 27: 31) tr groups] Work 14 (16: 18: 20) more rows in patt without shaping. SHAPE SHOULDER Next row Ch1, dc in st at base of ch, skip first 3-tr group, 2dc in next sp, 3htr in next 2 (4: 5: 7) sps, cont in patt to last 4 (6: 7: 9) groups and last tr, 3htr in next 2 (4: 5: 7) sps, 2dc in next sp, skip last sp and dc in top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. LEFT FRONT With RS facing skip 3 (3: 5: 5) tr groups after Back and rejoin yarn in next space. Row 1 (RS) Work in Row 3 of Patt to end, turn. [13 (15: 16: 18) tr groups] Row 2 (Decrease Row) Work in Row 2 of Patt to last 3-tr group and 2-tr group, skip last sp, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. [11 (13: 14: 16) tr groups] Row 3 Work in Row 3 of Patt to end, turn. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

[12 (14: 15: 17) tr groups] Rep the last 2 rows twice more. [10 (12: 13: 15) tr groups] Work 4 (6: 8: 10) more rows in patt without shaping. SHAPE FRONT NECK Next row (WS) Skip first 2 tr and 2 3-tr groups, rejoin yarn in next sp, work in Row 2 of patt to end, turn. [6 (8: 9: 11) tr groups] Next row Patt to last 3-tr group, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. Next row Ch3, 3tr in sp after first 3-tr group, patt to end, turn. [5 (7: 8: 10) tr groups] Work in patt without shaping for a further 6 rows. SHAPE SHOULDER Next row Ch1, dc in st at base of ch, skip first 3-tr group, 2dc in next sp, 3htr in next 2 (4: 5 :7) sps, cont in patt to end. Fasten off. SLEEVES Using a 3mm hook and Yarn A, ch42 (48: 51: 54), ss to first ch to join. Place a marker in first st of round, moving it up as you work. Round 1 Ch1, dc into 2nd ch from hook and each ch around, ss to first dc. [42 (48: 51: 54) sts] Rounds 2-3 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc. Change to a 3.5mm hook. Patt round 1 (RS) Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch, (skip 2 sts, 3tr in next st) to last 2 sts, ss to the top of the beg ch-3, turn. [14 (16: 17: 18) tr groups] Change to Yarn B. It is possible to work out which shade of Yarn B to start with so the colours will match Body colours when they meet at the armhole. If you set out to work 50 (50: 50: 52) rounds to armhole, then there will be 25 (25: 25: 26) Yarn B rounds, and the last of these rounds will need to be the same shade as last row before divide on Body. From there you can work back through the sequence to see which shade to start with. Patt round 2 (WS) Join yarn to last st of prev round. Ch3, 2tr into sp at base of ch, 3tr in each sp around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. The last round forms the patt; cont alternating between Yarn A and Yarn B shades in sequence as for Body, changing yarn and turning at the end of every round. Inc round 1 Ch3, 5tr in st at base of ch, 3tr in next sp and each sp to end and cont as for patt round. Inc round 2 Work as patt round until last 6-tr group, work an increase 3-tr group in the third tr of the 6-tr group, ss to top of beg

ch-3 to join, turn. [15 (17: 18: 19) tr groups] Work 4 more rounds in patt. Rep last 6 rounds a further 5 (5: 6: 7) times until there are 20 (22: 24: 26) tr groups. Cont working in patt without shaping until there are a total of 50 (50: 50: 52) rnds. SLEEVE CAP Worked in rows, cont in patt of Yarn A and Yarn B, turning at the end of each round. Marker denotes side seam. Identify the most central 3 (3: 5: 5) groups to leave unworked for underarm at side seam. Rejoin yarn in space before next group. Row 1 (RS) Work in Row 3 of patt, with last 2-tr group worked in space before unworked 3 (3: 5: 5) groups, turn. [18 (20: 20: 22) tr groups] Row 2 (Decrease row) Join yarn to last tr of prev row. Ch3, skip next tr and 3-tr group, (tr in sp before next 3-tr group) to last 3-tr group, skip last 3-tr group, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. [15 (17: 17: 19) tr groups] Row 3 Join yarn in last tr of prev row, ch3, tr in st at base of ch, patt to last 3-tr group, 2tr in sp before last st, turn. [16 (18: 18 :20) tr groups] Rep last 2 rows 6 (7: 7: 8) times more. [4 tr groups] Join shoulder seams. BORDERS With RS facing join Yarn A at lower edge of Right Front and work around Fronts and neckline as follows: Row 1 (RS) Using a 3mm hook work 2dc into every row end and into each corner st. Dc across horizontal neck edges and (2dc, skip next st) across back neck, turn at bottom of Left Front. Rows 2-3 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st to end, turn. Row 4 As prev row, working up to top of Left Front only, turn. Work 3 more border rows as above on Left Front only. Place 7 markers spaced evenly on Left Front border for button positions. With RS facing rejoin yarn to top corner of Right Front. Row 1 Ch1, dc in each st to end of Right Front, turn. Row 2 Work in dc, with (skip 2 dc, ch2) to correspond with each marked button position. Work 3 more rows of dc. TO MAKE UP Sew Sleeve Cap evenly into armhole, join side and Sleeve seams. Weave in ends. Sew 7 buttons to Left Front in place of markers. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 35


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STEPHANIE'S JOURNAL om C a n a d a ... f r

Designer Stephanie Lau from All About Ami shares her latest passion – creating beautiful cabled crochet projects.

W

hen you hear the word “cables” in fibre arts, usually knitting comes to mind first of all. Cables are so intricate, elegant and luxurious, and they provide such a gorgeous texture to a piece. I was intrigued when I first discovered a few years ago that cabling could be achieved with crochet. With knitting, cabling is accomplished by moving stitches on and off a cable needle resulting in beautiful twists and turns. On the other hand, cables in crochet are achieved by the clever and strategic use and placement of front and back post treble crochets and front post double treble crochets. Working around the posts of stitches helps elevate the stitches, enabling the cables to rise up relative to the rest of the piece. By skipping certain stitches and then working around those previously skipped stitches later, we can achieve those beautiful twists and turns that characterise cables. GETTING THE HANG OF CABLING My first cabling project was a free pattern I found online to make cabled wrist warmers. I learned how to work cables flat and later used this technique to work cables in the round. Moving on from this, my first original design using cables was my Cabled Slouchy Beanie. I made a ribbed band and then

“It's astounding any different looks you can achieve.”

“C ables a re so intricate, elegant and lux u riou s.” worked cables in the round. These cables give such gorgeous texture, and this pattern is now one of my most popular designs! I adapted the pattern for a toddler and also for use with super-bulky yarn since this design is very easy to modify. I made a second version of this pattern by working front post double crochets around the cables. You’ll notice that they really help frame the cables and give a nice variation. Last winter, I designed some cabled legwarmers to wear either under or over boots. I used a similar design as the second version of my slouchy beanie by framing the cables with front post double crochets. These cables make the legwarmers look so elegant and provide such a lovely texture! This past autumn, I released a brand new cabled pattern called the Chunky Braided Cabled Blanket. I had so much fun working on this particular design since I used jumbo level seven yarn (even thicker than super-chunky) and a huge 15mm hook. Rather than using the typical cable design from my previous projects, for this one I learned a new braided cabling technique. It’s astounding how many different cabling looks you can achieve by switching the placements of your front and back post trebles and double treble stitches! I'm currently working on a pair of cabled crochet mittens where one set of cables is simply framed at the front of the


mitten. I would also really love to design a cabled cowl or a cabled sweater in the future, so there’s plenty more to keep me occupied with this technique! ADD TO YOUR REPERTOIRE Even though crochet cabling may appear daunting at first, particularly with the complexity of the written patterns, it really is not too difficult at all. Once you get the hang of the pattern, you fall into a rhythm, and the cabling works up very quickly. I learned from a free tutorial online, and there are helpful YouTube videos also available. All of my patterns are free on my blog, and I try my best to provide detailed, step-by-step instructions to clearly show the process. If you’ve been hesitant to try crochet cabling before, then I encourage you to take that next step and give them a go! The looks you can achieve are stunning, and it’s always

“I encourage ou .” to take that next step such an accomplishment adding new skills to your crochet repertoire! Crochet cables are one of my favourite techniques, and I’m so happy that I learned how to do them. Find cosy crochet patterns and all of Stephanie’s cabling tutorials over on her blog, www. allaboutami.com

Cosy with cables

All photographs by Ryan Lau

Thi Cabled Blanket wa such a fun challenge to deign and cochet! I love the elegant look of the intetwined braided cable famed by the raied ba . Using jumbo level 7 yan and a 15 mm cochet hook helped thi project go by quickly. It i such a gogeou and cozy addition to ou home, and we love cuddling in it!


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All mod cons The granny square gets funky in this snug cowl. By Vickie Howell.


granny squar cow EASY PEASY ARAN WEIGHT

5.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Vickie Howell for Deramores Mod Wool (100% superwash merino wool, 100g/125m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Apollo Aran (100) Yarn B Cadillac Black (200) Yarn C Groovy Green (AM8038) Q A 5.5mm (US I/9) hook Q Tapestry needle For yarn stockists contact Deramores 0845 519 4573 www.deramores.com

TENSION 12 htr and 11 rows to measure 10x10 cm (4x4in) over htr using a 5.5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Finished cowl meas 25cm (10in) tall and 61cm (24in) in circumference

This stylish accessory is designed by Vickie Howell, who’s also responsible for working with Deramores on the scrummy yarn it’s stitched with, Mod Wool. This aran-weight merino wool comes in eight shades, all with 60s-inspired names. Vickie’s used three fab hues to hook up her cosy cowl, where the offset granny square meets rows of half trebles. It looks pretty groovy, right?

NOTES The Cowl is worked from the centre of Granny Square in rounds, then changes to working in rows after Round 2. Once sewn together, the Band is then worked in rounds onto the edges of the Cowl. COWL With Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join in a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), 2tr into ring, ch3, *3tr into ring, ch3; repeat from * twice more, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [4 groups of 3-tr] Round 2 (RS) Ss across to first ch-3 sp, (ch3, 2tr, ch3, 3tr) in same ch-3 sp, ch1, *(3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next ch-3 sp, ch1; repeat from * twice more, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [8 groups of 3-tr] Fasten off.

ABBREVIATIONS Front post half treble (FPhtr) Yrh, starting at the front, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated st, complete as for htr Back post half treble (BPhtr) Yrh, starting at the back, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the indicated st, complete as for htr For a full list, see page 92

Work front and back half trebles to create the ribbed bands around the edge. 42 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

You will now work in rows over 2 sides of the Granny Square. Row 3 (RS) Join Yarn B in first ch-3 sp, ch3, 2tr in same ch-3 sp, ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next ch-3 sp, ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, 3tr in next ch-3 sp, turn. [6 groups of 3-tr] Fasten off. Row 4 (WS) Join Yarn A in first st, ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), (3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1) twice, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in ch-3 sp, ch1, (3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1) twice, tr in last tr, turn. Fasten off. Row 5 (RS) Join Yarn B in first ch-1 sp, ch3, 2tr in same ch-1 sp, ch1, (3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1) twice, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in ch-3 sp, (ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp) 3 times, turn. Fasten off. Row 6 Join Yarn C in first st, ch2 (counts as htr), htr in each tr and ch-1 sp across to ch-3 corner sp, 3htr in ch-3 sp, htr in each tr and ch-1 sp across to end, turn. [33 htr] Fasten off. Row 7 Join Yarn A in first st, ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip 2 htr, (3tr in next htr, ch1, skip 3 htr) 3 times, skip next htr, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next htr, skip next htr, (ch1, skip 3 htr, 3tr in next htr) 3 times, ch1, skip 2 htr, tr in last st, turn. [8 groups of 3-tr] Fasten off. Row 8 Join Yarn B in first ch-1 sp, ch3, 2tr in

Get acquainted with working rows, rounds, trebles and half trebles to make this cowl.

same ch-1 sp, (ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp) 3 times, ch1, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in ch-3 sp, (ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp) 4 times, turn. [10 groups of 3-tr] Fasten off. Row 9 Join Yarn A in first st, ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), (3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1) 4 times, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in ch-3 sp, (ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp) 4 times, ch1, skip 2 tr, tr in last st, turn. Fasten off. You will now work in rows over 1 side of the Granny Square beginning with the sts just worked. Row 10 (WS) Join Yarn B in first st, ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr in each tr and ch-1 sp across to ch-3 corner sp, htr in ch-3 sp, turn. [22 htr] Row 11 Ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Fasten off. Row 12 Join Yarn A in first st, ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Row 13 Ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Fasten off. Row 14 Join Yarn C in first st, ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Fasten off. Row 15 Join Yarn B in first st, ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Rows 16-50 Repeat (Rows 11-15) seven times more. Row 51 Repeat Row 11 once more. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle and the long tail, join the last row to the edge of the Granny Square to create a tube. Weave in all ends.

BAND Work one onto each edge of the Cowl. Round 1 (RS) Join Yarn A in any row end at the top back of Cowl, ch2 (does not count as st), 72htr evenly around the edge of the Cowl, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. Rounds 2-5 Ch2 (does not count as st), (FPhtr in next st, BPhtr in next st) 36 times, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. Fasten off.


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over 50 crafty makes for red nose day DON’T MISS OUT!

Mollie Makes The Big Comic Relief Crafternoon is back with an all-new collection of over 50 makes for Red Nose Day. It’s packed with projects to sell at your own Crafternoon, or simply to make and enjoy, and £5 from every copy goes to charity!

INSIDE!

Contents subject to change

A special 8-page section printed on matt paper to cut out and frame! Find colouring pages, inspirational illustrated quotes and a botanical sketchbook tutorial.

just £8.99!*

ORDER YOUR COPY TODAY!

Online www.buysubscriptions.com/crafternoon Or call 0844 844 0388† and quote ‘Crafternoon 2017’ Also available exclusively at Sainsbury’s from 2nd February †Calls will cost 7p per minute plus your telephone company’s access charge.

Lines are open 8am-8pm weekdays & 9am-1pm Saturday. Overseas please call +44 (0) 1795 414 676. *EUR price £11.49, ROW price £11.99. All prices include p&p. Please allow up to 28 days for delivery Comic Relief, registered charity 326568 (England/Wales); SC039730


Run Rabbit Tracy Coldwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s adorable bunny toy is poised and ready to spring into action.


amigurumi rabbit EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Three Bears Yarn Affection Cotton DK (100% cotton, 50g/169m), 2 balls of Yarn A Silver Grey 1 ball of Yarn B Baby Pink Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Two 8mm black safety eyes Q Toy stuffing Q Stitch markers Q A 5cm (2in) white pompom (you can use yarn from your stash) For yarn stockists contact Three Bears Yarn www.threebearsyarn.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Rabbit measures approx 17cm (6¾in) tall

ABBREVIATIONS Invisible decrease (Inv dec) Insert your hook into the front loop of the first st. Without putting the yarn round the hook, bring the hook to the front of the work and insert the hook into the front loop of the next st (3 loops on hook). Yrh and draw through all 3 loops. For a full list, see page 92

Fluffy pompom tail, little pink nose, floppy ears and feet ready for bouncing? Check! Make a start now and you’ll have this super-cute amigurumi bunny done and dusted in plenty of time for Easter.

NOTES Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a ss. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. HEAD Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Rnd 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into loop. Rnd 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Rnd 3 (1dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Rnd 4 (2dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [24 sts] Rnd 5 (3dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [30 sts] Rnd 6 Dc in each st around. Rnd 7 (4dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [36 sts] Rnds 8-9 Dc in each st around. Rnd 10 (5dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [42 sts] Rnds 11-13 Dc in each st around. Rnd 14 (6dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [48 sts] Rnds 15-18 Dc in each st around. Rnd 19 (7dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [54 sts] Rnds 20-23 Dc in each st around. Rnd 24 (7dc, inv dec) 6 times. [48 sts] Rnd 25 (6dc, inv dec) 6 times. [42 sts] Rnd 26 Dc in each st around. Rnd 27 (5dc, inv dec) 6 times. [36 sts]

The ears are folded at the base before they’re sewn on for a more realistic shape.

Insert safety eyes in between Rnds 17 and 18, 12 sts apart. Rnd 28 (4dc, inv dec) 6 times. [30 sts] Rnd 29 Dc in each st around. Rnd 30 (3dc, inv dec) 6 times. [24 sts] Fill head firmly with toy stuffing. Rnd 31 (2dc, inv dec) 6 times. [18 sts] Rnd 32 (1dc, inv dec) 6 times. [12 sts] Rnd 33 (Inv dec) 6 times. [6 sts] Fasten off and weave tail through last 6 sts and pull tight. Weave in ends. Embroider the nose using Baby Pink and the image as a guide. EARS (MAKE 2) Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Rnds 1-4 Work as for Rnds 1-4 of Head. [24 sts] Rnds 5-23 Dc in each st around. Fasten off. BODY Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Rnds 1-5 Work as for Rnds 1-5 of Head. [30 sts] Rnd 6 (4dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [36 sts] Rnd 7 (5dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [42 sts] Rnd 8 (6dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [48 sts] Rnd 9 (7dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [54 sts] Rnd 10 (8dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [60 sts] Rnd 11 Dc in each st around. Rnd 12 (9dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [66 sts] Rnds 13-20 Dc in each st around. Rnd 21 (1dc, inv dec) 10 times, dc in next 36 sts. [56 sts] Rnds 22-23 Dc in each st around. Rnd 24 (1dc, inv dec) 7 times, dc in next 35 sts. [49 sts] Rnds 25-26 Dc in each st around. Rnd 27 (1dc, inv dec) 6 times, dc in next 31

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amigurumi rabbit sts. [43 sts] Rnds 28-31 Dc in each st around. Rnd 32 1dc, (5dc, inv dec) 6 times. [37 sts] Rnds 33-34 Dc in each st around. Rnd 35 1dc, (4dc, inv dec) 6 times. [31 sts] Rnd 36 Dc in each st around. Rnd 37 1dc, (3dc, inv dec) 6 times. [25 sts] Rnd 36 Dc in each st around. Fasten off. ARMS (MAKE 2) Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Rnds 1-6 Work as for Rnds 1-6 of Head. [30 sts] Rnds 7-10 Dc in each st around. Rnd 11 (3dc, inv dec) 6 times. [24 sts] Rnd 12 Dc in each st around. Rnd 13 (2dc, inv dec) 6 times. [18 sts] Rnds 14-22 Dc in each st around. Stuff lower Arm. Rnd 23 (1dc, inv dec) 6 times. [12 sts] Rnds 24-36 Dc in each st around. Fasten off. Lightly stuff the rest of the Arm. FEET (MAKE 2) Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Rnds 1-7 Work as for Rnds 1-7 of Body. [42 sts] Rnds 8-11 Dc in each st around. Rnd 12 (5dc, inv dec) 6 times. [36 sts] Rnds 13-16 Dc in each st around. Rnd 17 (4dc, inv dec) 6 times. [30 sts] Rnds 18-20 Dc in each st around. Rnd 21 (3dc, inv dec) 6 times. [24 sts] Rnds 22-27 Dc in each st around. Rnd 28 (2dc, inv dec) 6 times. [18 sts] Rnd 29 (1dc, inv dec) 6 times. [12 sts]

Rnd 30 (Inv dec) 6 times. [6 sts] Fasten off and weave tail through last 6 sts and pull tight. Weave in ends. FOOT PADS

SMALL CIRCLES (MAKE 6) Using Yarn B, make a magic loop. Rnd 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into loop. Rnd 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing on the feet.

LONG FOOTPAD (MAKE 2) Using Yarn B, make a magic loop. Rnd 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into loop. Rnd 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Rnd 3 (1dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Rnd 4 (2dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [24 sts] The rest of the footpad is worked in Rows. Ch8. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, ss into first st of Rnd 4, turn. [7dc, 1ss] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each dc across, turn. [7 dc] Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each dc across, ss in next st of Rnd 4. [7 dc] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing on the feet. Sew the footpads onto the feet using the image as a guide. TO MAKE UP Fold the open end of each Ear in half, pin into place and sew onto the back of the

Use some white yarn from your stash to create a fluffy pompom for the bunny’s tail.

It’s all in the detail – the cute pink footpads are made up of just two simple shapes.

head behind the eyes, using the image as a guide. Position the Head into the open end of the Body and sew carefully into place. Using the image as a guide, sew the arms and feet into place on the body and finally add a white pompom for a tail.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK A MAGIC LOOP Working yarn Pull

Tail end

1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t make a slipknot. Instead, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long. Make sure the tail end is under the working yarn.

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2 Insert your hook into the loop, from front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the hook anticlockwise and pull the yarn through the loop.

3 Make a t-ch for the sts you want to work (above, we made 1 t-ch for dc). Now work your sts into the Magic Loop, making sure you work over both the loop and the tail end (so two yarn strands).

4 Once you’ve worked the number of stitches you need, simply pull the tail end of the yarn to draw up the ring. Work a slip stitch to join the first and last stitches and finish the first round.

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Reader promotion

Make a hat or two…

We’re getting involved with innocent’s Big Knit campaign to raise money for Age UK, and you can too! very year, innocent’s Big Knit campaign recruits talented crafters like you from all over the UK to make fun little hats for smoothie bottles. This year, we’re helping innocent reach their target of 2 million hats for the biggest bit knit ever. It’s fun, it’s easy and it’s for a great cause. For every behatted smoothie sold, the Big Knit campaign donates 25p to Age UK to help keep older people warm and well over winter. The colder months can be tough for a lot of people – as many as 25,000 older people’s lives are at risk because of the cold. But we can

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help and whether you’re new to crocheting hats or have made a hundred before, it’s simple to get involved. Thanks to crocheters and knitters like you, the Big Knit has raised over £1.9m so far. You can find a wonderful selection of patterns to make on these pages, and there are more on the Big Knit website. If you’re just starting out, you can find a beginner hat pattern and how to videos and instructions on the website – visit www.thebigknit.co.uk Remember to look out for all the lovely little hats in the shops from October 2017!

ABBREVIATIONS FOR ALL PATTERNS

MEASUREMENTS

ch chain dc double crochet dc2tog double crochet 2 stitches together ea each htr half treble rep repeat ss slip stitch st(s) stitch(es) tr treble crochet

To fit an innocent smoothie

CUTE OWL

By Val Pierce.

HAT Ch2 using Yarn A. Work 6dc in second ch from hook and join in a circle with ss. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 2dc in ea dc to end, join with ss. [12 dc] Round 2 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) to end, join with ss. [18 dc] Round 3 Ch1, (dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc) to end, join with ss. [24 dc] Round 4 Ch1, dc in ea dc to end, join with ss. Rounds 5-11 As Round 4. Round 12 Work a round of dc from right to left in an anti-clockwise direction to create a corded edge. Join with ss. Fasten off.

YOU WILL NEED

WINGS (MADE IN ONE PIECE)

Q

Ch2 using Yarn B, 2dc in second ch from hook, turn. Row 1 Ch1, 2dc in ea st to end, turn. [4 dc] Row 2 Ch1, 2dc in first dc, dc in ea dc to last st, 2dc in last dc, turn. [6 dc] Rows 3-7 Rep Row 2. [16 dc] Row 8 Ch3, dc in second ch from hook, dc in next ch, dc in ea dc to end, turn. [18 dc] Row 9 As Row 8. [20 dc] Rows 10-11 Rep Row 2. [24 dc]

Small amounts of any DK yarn Yarn A Light Grey Yarn B Dark Grey Yarn C Cream Q Oddments of yellow yarn for beak Q A 3.75mm (US F/5) Pony crochet hook Q Small amount of toy stuffing Q 2 small buttons

TENSION Tension is not critical for this project

Row 12 Ss into first 5 dc, ch1, dc in st at base of ch and in ea dc to last 4 dc, turn leaving rem sts unworked. [16 dc] Row 13 (Dc2tog) to end. [8 dc] Row 14 (Dc2tog) to end. [4 dc] Row 15 (Dc2tog) twice. Fasten off.

EYES (MAKE 2) Ch2 using Yarn C. 6dc in second ch from hook and join in a circle with ss. [6 dc] Round 1 Ch1, 2dc in ea dc to end, join with ss. [12 dc] Round 2 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) to end, join with ss. [18 dc] Fasten off. TO MAKE UP Attach the eye circles close together on the front of the Body. Stitch the Wings in place wrapping around the back, stretching slightly to fit and secure either side of the eyes using the picture as a guide. Leave the two wing ends loose Sew two tiny buttons onto the cream circle eyes. Use a small length of yellow and embroider a beak. Weave in all ends and trim.


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join with ss. [12 dc] Round 6 Ch1, (dc2tog) to end. [6 dc] Fasten off leaving a 15cm tail for closing the top and attaching the head. Stuff firmly using the end of your crochet hook to help.

FEET (MAKE 4)

TORTOISE

By Val Pierce.

YOU WILL NEED

Ch3 using Yarn B. Work 11tr into third ch from hook and join in a circle with ss. Fasten off leaving 15cm tail for attaching to the Body. Run the tail through the last round of sts with a tapestry needle, add a tiny bit of stuffing to pad lightly, draw up tightly to form a ball. Secure. Fasten off.

Q

SHELL PATCHES (MAKE 4)

TENSION

Ch2 using Yarn A. 6dc in second ch from hook and join in a circle with ss. [6 dc] Round 1 Ch1, 2dc in ea dc to end, join with ss. [12 dc] Fasten off Yarn A and join in Yarn B. Round 2 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) to end, join with ss. [18 dc] Fasten off.

Small amounts of any DK yarn Yarn A Brown Yarn B Beige Yarn C Dark Green Q Oddments of black yarn Q A 3.75mm (US F/5) Pony crochet hook Q Small amount of toy stuffing Q 2 black beads

Tension is not critical for this project HAT Ch2 using Yarn A. 6dc in second ch from hook and join in a circle with ss. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 2dc in ea dc to end, join with ss. [12 dc] Break Yarn A and join in Yarn B. Round 2 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) to end, join with ss. [18 dc] Round 3 Ch1, (dc in ea of next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc) to end, join with ss. [24 dc] Round 4 Ch1, dc in ea dc to end, join with ss. Rounds 5-9 As Round 4. Fasten off Yarn B and join in Yarn C. Round 10 Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in st at base of ch, ss in next dc, (3tr in next dc, ss in next dc) to end, join with ss. Fasten off. HEAD Stuff the Head as you go. Ch2 using Yarn B. 6dc in second ch from hook and join in a circle with ss. Round 1 Ch1, 2dc in ea dc to end, join with ss. [12 dc] Round 2 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) to end, join with ss. [18 dc] Round 3 Ch1, dc in ea dc to end, join with ss. Round 4 As Round 3. Round 5 Ch1, (dc in next dc, dc2tog) to end,

TO MAKE UP Attach the Head to the front of the Body then sew the patches neatly around the outside of the shell. Sew one Foot to each corner of the shell and a bead to each side of the Head for eyes. Weave in all ends.

HAT Round 1 Using cream, make a magic loop. 11dc into loop and continue working in a spiral without closing each round with a ss. Round 2 2dc into each dc around. [22 dc] Round 3 *Dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc; rep from * to last st, dc in last st. [29 dc] Rounds 4-11 Dc in back loop of each st around. This creates the ridged effect of the beehive. Rounds 12-15 Ss in each st around. Ss into next st and close.

BEE BODY Round 1 Using yellow, ch2, 6dc in second chain from the hook, ss into first st of round. [6 dc] Round 2 Ch1, 2dc into each st, ss into first st of round. [12 dc] Rounds 3-4 Using black, ch1, dc into every stitch, ss into first st of round. Rounds 5-6 Using yellow, ch1, dc into every stitch, ss into first st of round. Rounds 7-8 Using black, ch1, dc into every stitch, ss into first st of round. Change to yellow and work in a spiral, filling bee with stuffing as you are working. Rounds 9-11 Ch1, (dc2tog over next 2 sts) rep until you have 1 stitch on your hook. Weave in end to close. Fasten off. Embroider mouth using a small length of black and work two French knots for eyes.

BEE WINGS (MAKE 2) Round 1 Using white and working in a spiral, ch2, 6dc in second chain from the hook. [6 dc] Round 2 (2dc into next st, dc into each of next 2 sts), rep to end. [8 dc] Fasten off. Stitch wings onto centre back. Weave in ends.

MINI FLOWERS (MAKE 2)

MINI BEEHIVE

By DMC Creative World. YOU WILL NEED Q

Small amount of cotton 2ply yarn, cream Small amounts of fine crochet thread in red, white, black and yellow. Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) Pony crochet hook Q Small amount of toy stuffing Q

TENSION Tension is not critical for this project

Using yellow, make a magic loop and work 6 dc into the ring. Round 1 Using red, (ss, htr, ss) in each st around. Ss to first st to join. Fasten off. TO MAKE UP Thread a length of cream into the top of the beehive. Ch10 and carefully attach to the centre of the yellow body of the bee in between the wings. Attach the flowers to the outside of the beehive.


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Meet the makers! Say hello to the people behind some of the Big Knit’s greatest hats.

Jo “ I ’ m obsessed. I knit before work in the morning, in my lunch break and in the evenings. I’ m rarely without my needles.” Jo knitted a lot when she was younger, but had got out of the habit. She’d do “an occasional baby jacket, but nothing really” — until she found out about The Big Knit through Facebook in 2011. Since then, there’s been no stopping her. She has made close friends through knitting the little hats, and shares her knitting patterns with friends online. Her favourite hat pattern? Ollie the Octopus. “I immediately fell in love with him.”

Marjorie “I like the Big Knit because it provides an income for Age UK Bromley & Greenwich.” Marjorie’s been knitting for 75 years. She attends local knitting groups and always has her knitting with her, so she can whip up a hat on the bus on the way to the shops. She’s knitted hundreds over the years, including snowmen, cups of tea and owls, as well as regular hats embellished with pompoms, bells and beads. These days Marjorie goes into a school with her local Age UK and teaches children to knit, something she loves to do.

Hina “ T he Big Knit is a way to give back to the community, help others and enjoy ourselves along the way.” Hina is the director of Bluebird Care Lambeth. She introduced her team to the Big Knit last year, and she’s even managed to get her 10-year-old son into knitting. Hina learned her skills from her mum, who always used to make her sweaters – “with zig-zag patterns and bobbles all over, my friends were always well jel”, she claims – and this year she’s started early, recruiting all of her staff to create 100 little hats using both crochet and knitting.

Sara “The Big Knit is an idea that makes you smile. How can you not smile at little hats on bottles?” Sara was given her first set of knitting needles for her 18th birthday, and still uses them now. She set up a knitting group at work five years ago to contribute hats for The Big Knit, and over the years it’s been a phenomenal success, knitting an incredible 25,000 hats. Sara’s hat creations have included a rainbow, a courgette flower and even a VW camper van (we’re seriously impressed). When not knitting hats, Sara can be found tending to her growing menagerie of animals.


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Helping Age UK Even if you only have time to knit one or two hats, every single one will contribute towards helping the elderly. s many as 25,000 older people’s lives are at risk because of the cold. And innocent wanted to help. Back in 2003 they had an idea, asking people to knit little woolly hats. They put those hats on their smoothies, and for each one sold made a donation to Age UK. innocent has put little hand-knitted hats onto smoothie bottles for over 13 years now, and in that time donated £1.9 million to Age UK. This year, they’re aiming for an enormous, record-breaking two million hats to raise more money than ever before.

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KEEPING IT LOCAL All the hats for the Big Knit are knitted by real people who volunteer their time and knitting skills to help make the campaign a success. Lots of the hats are knitted by older people in their local Age UK centres, who pledge to knit a certain number of hats, and in return the money raised from their hats is given back to that specific centre so that they can feel the direct benefit of their contribution. The campaign has raised vital funds to support local and national winter projects to help older people keep warm and well in winter through befriending visits, emergency cold weather support, warm meals and other vital services. Many of the other volunteers knit lots of hats for innocent each year, and say that they really look forward to the Big Knit coming back around so that they can get crocheting for Age UK all over again. The Big Knit is also a great way to bring people and communities together. Crochet and crafting groups are a great way to get people together to share patterns and have a cup of tea or two! Please put your hats in an envelope (or box!) along with a note clearly stating how many you’ve made, the date, and your name and address, and send them to the address below.

The Big Knit 2017 innocent drinks 342 Ladbroke Grove London W10 5BU

“ The Bi g Knit ca mp a i gn co uld n’ t ha p p e n w it h o ut t he s up p o rt o f t h o usa nds o f a ma zing p e o p le a cross t he UK w h o t a ke p a rt a nd knit w o o lly ha ts t o a d o rn inno ce nt s mo o t hies ea ch yea r .” Do uglas La mo nt , CEO a t inno ce nt

Gemma Manning-Bentley of Gemmipop Designs in Oswestry visited Age UK Shropshire Telford & Wrekin’s offices in Shrewsbury to deliver an early Christmas present of 3000 knitted hats!


MB ISH AN OUTFIT

From the top

Crochet the ultimate handmade pompom for your go-to woolly hat. Designed by Sara Huntington.

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mb ish an outfit EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Perran Baby Alpaca Linen Silk DK (50% alpaca, 25% silk, 25% other; 110g/250m), 1 skein of Ripples in the Sand OR any DK yarn Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q Tapestry needle For yarn stockists, contact Perran Yarns www.perranyarns.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Approx 13cm (5in) diameter

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

We all love a pompom (hats never quite look right without them), but have you ever tried crocheting one? This fun, frilly make will help you add a much-needed hooky touch to knits of any kind. How about using it to top off a teacosy or add a bit of pizzazz to a scarf or bag? The textured bobble uses only double crochet stitches so it’s really easy to hook but looks wonderfully fancy. Flip across to page 4 to find more stylish, beginner-friendly crochet projects. BOBBLE Ch 101. Row 1 Dc in the second ch from the hook, *ch9, 2dc in the second ch from the hook, 2dc in each of the 7 ch remaining, dc in the next ch of the original ch; repeat from * until the last of the original ch has been worked, then repeat from * once more omitting the last dc. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. TO MAKE UP Roll up the piece and sew it into position as you go. Using a tapestry needle, sew the bobble securely in place on a hat.

Any DK yarn will work for this, but try a variegated shade for maximum impact.

SAVE OR SPLURGE For a more budget-friendly make, you could use the following yarn: King Cole Cherish DK, (100% anti-pilling acrylic, 100g/250m) For yarn stockists contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO MAKE A DOUBLE CROCHET

1 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row.

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2 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving you two loops on your crochet hook.

4 Yarn round hook again, then pull the yarn through both loops. There’s your double crochet made and you’ll have one loop left on the hook ready to do the next stitch.


Win the yan to make the winning project! Ente by voting fo you fave on Intagram #hooktohook

win

Little loves

hook to hook

We challenged two designers to come up with a fab design, each using the same yarn… which is your fave?

Vita Apala Latvian-born but currently living in Italy with her husband and two children, Vita believes that crochet makes the world a better place. She says “My kids are my biggest inspiration. They give me ideas about what they’d like me to make, or I try to invent something functional and more comfortable for them to wear. Yarn is another huge inspiration and sometimes it’s enough to hold a skein of yarn in my hands and I already know what I’d like to make with it!” Head to www.monpetitviolon.com for more from Vita.

Jennifer Reid British crochet designer Jennifer is a self-confessed yarn hoarder and, as a mum of two, is no stranger to designing cute things for little ones. She told us “I draw inspiration from many places but am hugely influenced by vintage textiles, lacework – anything delicate! Vintage Dior, Prada and Matthew Williamson have such timeless style and grace, they are my go-tos!” Online, Jennifer can be found under the MillieRoseUK moniker and you can shop for her crochet patterns at www.millieroseUK.etsy.com

Made in association with Designer Yarns. For stockists contact www.designeryarns.uk.com 01535 664222

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hook to hook

Psst

The hat i gath eed at the top with a special twited daw ting Top left: The scarf sections have a cable-like texture. Bottom left: The body of the hat is worked in a striking wave pattern. Right: Vita’s clever hat and scarf accessory is brimming with playful details and can be made in baby, toddler or child sizes.

All-in-one hat

A cosy hat and scarf combo with stripes and playful texture to boot – we’re smitten. Designed by Vita Apala. Q Louisa Harding Trenzar yarn (35% wool, 30% lyocell, 23% alpaca, 12% acrylic, 100g/174m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Natural (311) Yarn B Grass (314) Yarn C Aqua (313) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook

TENSION 13sts and 8 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over htr using 5mm hook or size needed to obtain correct tension

MEASUREMENTS Baby (Toddler: Child) Size shown is the Toddler size. Hat Circumference up to 41 (46: 51)cm/(16 (18: 20)in Scarf Length 50 (60: 75)cm/20 (24: 30)in

Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook, *htr in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in next ch, tr in next ch, htr in next ch, dc in next ch; repeat from * to end, turn. [19 (25: 31)sts] Row 2 with Yarn B, ch4 (counts as first dtr), *tr in next st, htr in next st, dc in next st, htr in next st, tr in next st, dtr in next st; repeat from * to end, turn. Row 3 with Yarn C, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st, *htr in next st, tr in next st, dtr in next st, tr in next st, htr in next st, dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. Rep Rows 2 and 3, changing colour each row in the foll order: Yarn A, Yarn B, Yarn C, until a total of 27 (30: 33) rows are completed, do not fasten off. Join last row to the foundation chain by working a ss in each st through both layers to form a tube. Fasten off Yarn C. Turn hat to the right side and with Yarn A dc evenly around top edge of hat, ss to first dc. Fasten off. Rep with Yarn B around bottom edge of hat, ss to first dc, do not fasten off.

ABBREVIATIONS FPdtr Yrh twice, starting from the front, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of st in row below, complete as for a double treble st HAT With Yarn A, ch20 (26: 32). 56 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

SCARF

FIRST PART Rows 1-2 with Yarn B, ch1 (does not count as st throughout), htr in st at base of ch and each of next 13 (15: 17)sts, turn. [14(16: 18)sts] Row 3 (RS) Ch1, htr in first st, htr in next 1

(2: 1)sts, *skip next st, FPdtr around next htr two rows below, leaving skipped st behind dtr unworked, htr in each of next 3 sts; rep from * 2 (2: 3) more times, Toddler size only: htr in last st, turn. [14 (16: 18)sts] Row 4 (WS) Ch1, htr in each st to end, turn. Rep (Rows 3 and 4) 8 (10: 12) more times with Yarn B, 6 (8: 10) more times with Yarn C and 4 (4: 6) more times with Yarn A, or until desired length, do not fasten off. Next row (RS) Ch1, htr in first st, (skip next st, htr in next st) repeat to last st, htr in last st, turn. [8 (9: 10) sts] Next row Skip 3 (4: 4) sts, 8 (8: 10)dtr in next st, skip next 3 (3: 4)sts, ss in last st. Fasten off.

SECOND PART Working on wrong side and starting with next st from seam of hat, rep all rows of Scarf – First Part. Fasten off and weave in ends. TWISTED CORD Cut approx 2m long strand of Yarn A. Attach it exactly in the middle to a hook or a door handle. Begin twisting each strand of yarn using your fingers. The tighter the yarns are twisted, the firmer the finished cord will be, but this will also reduce the finished length. Holding the cord in the centre with one hand, bring both ends of the cord tog.


hook to hook

Left: Jennifer’s cardigan is worked from the bottom up, so you’ll tackle the colourwork first. Inset: The main body of the cardi is worked in a pretty stripe sequence. Right: Jennifer sketched out a few different ideas for her Hook to Hook make before settling on the final design.

Allow 2 halves to twist tog. Smooth out cord. Knot ends tog and trim. Pass the cord through the sts of top of hat, pull both ends as tight as possible and tie a bow with it.

Sweetheart Cardigan

For hearts, wind off separate small balls of Yarn C for each heart. Carry Yarn A across WS of the work between hearts. For heart pattern, see Chart on p93. On the Chart each square represents 1dc st. When changing colour mid-row, twist the ends of the two colours tog. Pick up new colour in last yrh of prev st. BACK With Yarn B, ch49 (51: 53: 55). Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each chain across, turn.

Challenge yourself with intarsia and tapestry crochet. It’s so worth it for those picture-perfect hearts. By Jenny Reid. Q Louisa Harding Trenzar (35% wool, 30% lyocell, 23% alpaca, 12% acrylic, 100g/174m), Yarn A Natural (311), Yarn B Grass (314) and Yarn C Aqua (313) For yarn quantities and measurements see table Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook Q 1 button 3cm (1¼in) diameter Q Tapestry needle

AGE (YEARS)

TENSION

LENGTH

15 sts and 10 rows to meas 10x10cm (4x4in) over st pattern using a 5mm hook, or size needed to obtain correct tension

SLEEVE LENGTH

TO FIT CHEST

ACTUAL CHEST

2-3

Fasten off. [48 (50: 52: 54) dc] Row 2 (WS) Join Yarn A in first st, ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each dc across, turn. Rows 3-9 Ch1, dc in 0 (1: 2: 3) sts, follow Chart working in rows of dc and repeating each row of Chart four times, using Yarn A as the main yarn and Yarn C for hearts, dc in 0 (1: 2: 3) sts. [48 (50: 52: 54) dc] Row 10 Using Yarn A, dc in each st across, turn. Fasten off. Row 11 Join Yarn B in first st, ch1, dc in each dc across, turn. 3-4

4-5

5-6

cm

56

59

61

64

in

22

23¼

24

25¼

cm

64

66

69

72

in

25¼

26

27

28¼

cm

39

41

43

45

in

15¼

16

17

17¾

cm

24

28

32

36

in

11

12½

14

NOTES

YARN A NATURAL

100g

1

2

2

2

The cardigan is made bottom up in separate pieces for Fronts, Back and Sleeves. The bottom panel of cardigan is worked using intarsia and tapestry crochet techniques.

YARN B GRASS

100g

1

2

2

2

YARN C AQUA

100g

1

2

2

2

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 57


hook to hook

Left: Check the sizing chart on page 57 to figure out which size you need to make your cardigan. Right: The stripes are worked in a two-row pattern repeat, changing colour in sequence every row.

Row 12 Ch1, dc in each dc across, turn. Row 13 Join Yarn A in first st, ch1, dc in first 1 (2: 3: 4) sts, *(dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in next st, skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in next 2 sts; repeat from * across to last 11 (12: 13: 14) sts, (dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in next st, skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in next 1 (2: 3: 4) sts, turn. Fasten off. Row 14 Join Yarn C in first st, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next 0 (1: 2: 3) sts, *(tr in next st, ch1, skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, tr in next st) twice, tr in next 2 sts; repeat from *

c

a

b a: b: c:

30 (33: 34: 37: 41)cm 11¾ (13: 13¼: 14½: 16)in 31.5 (34: 36.5: 39: 41.5)cm 12½ (13¼: 14¼: 15¼: 16¼)in 38 (41: 48: 53: 56)cm 15 (16: 19: 20¾: 22)in

58 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

across to last 11 (12: 13: 14) sts, *(tr in next st, ch1, skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, tr in next st) twice, tr in next 1 (2: 3: 4) sts, turn. Fasten off. Rows 13 and 14 set pattern. Rows 15-44 (46: 48: 50) Rep Rows 13-14 changing colour each row in the foll sequence: Yarn B, Yarn A, Yarn C. Fasten off and weave in all ends. RIGHT FRONT With Yarn B, ch25 (26: 27: 28). Rows 1-2 Work as for Rows 1-2 of Back. [24 (25: 26: 27) sts] Row 3 and each odd row to Row 9 Ch1, dc in 0 (1: 1: 1) sts, follow Chart, working in rows of dc and repeating each row of the Chart twice, using Yarn A as the main yarn and Yarn C for the hearts, dc in 0 (0: 1: 2) sts, turn. Row 4 and each even row to Row 8 Ch1, dc in 0 (0: 1: 2) sts, follow Chart, working in rows of dc and repeating each row of the Chart twice, using Yarn A as the main yarn and Yarn C for the hearts, dc in 0 (1: 1: 1) sts, turn. Rows 10-12 Work as for Rows 10-12 of Back. Row 13 Join Yarn A in first st, ch1, dc in first 1 (2: 3: 4) sts, *(dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in next st, skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in next 2 sts; repeat from * across to last 11 sts, (dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in next st, skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in last st, turn.

Fasten off. Row 14 Join Yarn C in first st, ch3 (counts as tr), *(tr in next st, ch1, skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, tr in next st) twice, tr in next 2 sts; rep from * across to last 11 (12: 13: 14) sts, *(tr in next st, ch1, skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, tr in next st) twice, tr in next 1 (2: 3: 4) sts, turn. Fasten off. Rows 13 and 14 set pattern. Cont in patt as set until you have worked Row 37 (39: 41: 43) Next row (WS) Work in patt across first 11 (12: 13: 14) sts, turn leaving rem sts unworked, Fasten off. Cont working in patt on these 11 (12: 13: 14) sts only for a further 6 rows. Fasten off. LEFT FRONT With Yarn B, ch25 (26: 27: 28). Rows 1-2 Work as for Rows 1-2 of Back. [24 (25: 26: 27) sts] Row 3 and each odd row to Row 9 Ch1, dc in 0 (0: 1: 2) sts, follow Chart, working in rows of dc and repeating each row of the Chart twice, using Yarn A as the main yarn and Yarn C for the hearts, dc in 0 (1: 1: 1) sts, turn. Row 4 and each even row to Row 8 Ch1, dc in 0 (1: 1: 1) sts, follow Chart, working in rows of dc and repeating each row of Chart twice, using Yarn A as the main yarn and Yarn C for


Hook to hook

Left: To make sure you get these cute heart shapes just right, play close attention to the chart on page 93. Right: This cardigan only needs one button, so it’s the perfect opportunity to raid your stash for something a bit different. Make sure it’s sturdy enough for little fingers though.

hearts, dc in 0 (0: 1: 2) sts, turn. Rows 10-12 Work as for Rows 10-12 of Back. Row 13 Join Yarn A in first st, ch1, dc in first st, *(dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in next st, skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * across to last 11 (12: 13: 14) sts, (dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in next st, skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in last 1 (2: 3: 4) sts, turn. Fasten off. Row 14 Join Yarn C in first st, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next 0 (1: 2: 3) sts, *(tr in next st, ch1, skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, tr in next st) twice, tr in next 2 sts; rep from * across to last 11 sts, *(tr in next st, ch1, skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, tr in next st) twice, tr in next last st, turn. Fasten off. Rows 13 and 14 set pattern. Cont in patt as set until you have worked Row 37 (39: 41: 43) Next row (WS) Join yarn in the 11 (12: 13: 14) th st from armhole edge and continue in patt across these sts, turn. Fasten off. Cont working in patt on these 11 (12: 13: 14) sts only for a further 6 rows. Fasten off and weave in all ends. SLEEVES (MAKE 4) Each Sleeve is worked in two pieces and seamed tog at underarm seam and along top of Sleeve from shoulder to wrist. Each piece is worked from bottom (underarm) to top. The stripe sequence of the 14 (14: 16: 16) patt Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

rows on Sleeves needs to match the stripe sequence at top of Body piece, so count back 14 (14: 16: 16) rows from top of Body to work out the starting colour of the Sleeve. With the appropriate yarn, ch37 (43: 49: 55). Row 1 (WS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn and cont in this yarn for first patt row as follows. [36 (42: 48: 54) sts] Row 2 Ch1, *(dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in next st, skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * 2 (2: 3: 3) more times, cont in patt as set on rem 0 (6: 0: 6) sts, turn. Fasten off, change yarn. Row 3 Work a tr in each dc (replacing the beg tr with ch-3), and (ch1, skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st) above each 3-tr group to end, turn. Fasten off, change yarn. Rows 2 and 3 set patt.

Cont in patt for a further 12 (12: 14: 14) rows, Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew 2 pieces WS tog along the top edge only to make each Sleeve. TO MAKE UP Join shoulder seams at Right and Left shoulder, matching st for st. Align Sleeve seam with shoulder seam, and match the stripes to sew each Sleeve to Body. Sew underarm and side seams. Sew button to Left Front, using the ch-sp in pattern as a buttonhole. For stockist details contact Designer Yarns www.designeryarns.uk.com or call 01535 664222.

TRENZAR BY LOUISA HARDING Seeking a special aran weight yarn with oodles of character? Look no further than Trenzar by Louisa Harding. This scrummy plied yarn has a two-tone look, a pleasing twisted texture and a luxurious feel. It’s a clever blend of wool, alpaca and synthetic

fibres, resulting in a super-soft yarn that’s wonderfully warm and begging to be hooked with. There are 16 pretty shades to choose from in a palette that boasts wearable jewel brights and delicate pastels. It’s safe to say we’re sold.

W W.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 59


Photo © Lissarie Photography

GOOD READ

“My online crochet community has been extremely supportive.”

C

REPEAT CRAFTER ME

US designer Sarah Zimmerman tells us how she fell in love with hooks and yarn.

rochet began as a means to an end for Sarah Zimmerman after she gave birth to her second son, but she had no idea of the journey it would take her on. “Crochet hats and props for newborn photoshoots were trending around the birth of my second son,” she comments. “I’ve always been craftsy and wanted to create a few crocheted accessories for my baby boy.” Sarah set herself the task of teaching herself to crochet, and started by going to her local craft store and picking up beginner supplies. “Back at home I searched YouTube for additional tutorials and instruction. Surprisingly, I caught on quickly and in a short amount of time created my first hat!” Sarah swiftly fell in love with her new skills, which were joining a whole stable of other 60 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

crafty talents. “When I became a stay-athome mom, I loved doing crafty projects with my boys,” she says. “I would make fun food creations, set up themed arts and craft projects, and then when I learned to crochet, I had really found an additional outlet to my creativity that I wanted to share with others.” TOOTING THE CROCHET HORN By this time, Sarah had happily been dipping into what she calls ‘mom blogs’. “I decided to set up my own blog as a way to share the things I was doing at home with others who would be interested and inspired.” Right from the start, Sarah’s Repeat Crafter Me blog (www.repeatcrafterme.com) contained a cheerful mix of recipes, crafts, and snippets of family life, making it a lovely

place to drop by and hang around. On 19 October 2011, Sarah wrote her first blog post about her love of crochet. “I don’t want to toot my own horn, but I’m feeling pretty good about the fact that I taught myself how to crochet less than a month ago,” she typed. “Who knew crocheting was so easy-peasy?” The speed at which Sarah developed her crochet skills is pretty exceptional, and in next to no time she was creating her own designs. Her existing abilities certainly helped: she graduated from the University of Washington with a degree in Visual Arts, and worked as a graphic designer for six years. “I credit my background in visual arts and graphic design as one of the main reasons my crochet has been so popular,” she says. “It’s given me an eye for colour and the ability to


Photo © Lissarie Photography

GOOD READ

create clean, fun and cute designs. Plus my extensive knowledge of Photoshop and Illustrator has been an immense help when it comes to the behind-the-scenes blog work.” The beauty of Repeat Crafter Me is that Sarah is showcasing the projects and patterns she loves to work on herself. “I always take pride in my cute crochet hats, but have recently been including a lot of graphgan designs and smaller projects like crochet pouches and amigurumi to my pattern collection,” she enthuses. In case you were wondering, graphgans are afghan blankets making use of gorgeous graphic design motifs. It’s a preference that harks directly back to Sarah’s past profession. Favourite techniques include corner-tocorner crochet. “With a pixel graph pattern you can incorporate any picture or image into your crochet,” Sarah says. “I gravitate towards worsted weight yarn and am currently loving the Bernat Super Value line because of the vast colour choices.” Choosing the right tools for the job is also important to Sarah. “Susan Bates’ Size H has always been my go-to crochet hook,” she says. “Lately I’ve enjoyed purchasing custom polymer clay hooks from Etsy because of the comfort of the handles and beautiful designs that they offer. In addition, you won’t find me without a crochet tote bag in tow and a nice fabric toolkit with lots of pockets and slots for my hooks, needles, scissors and markers.” A GROWING TRIBE Despite her natural talent and professional eye, Sarah owns up to some occasional imperfections, but takes these in her stride. “Of course, I constantly make mistakes,” she says. “That’s part of the process of being a pattern designer. Sometimes I spend several days or even weeks reworking a pattern to get it right. And even if a published pattern Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

has an error, I’ve found that my online crochet community has been extremely supportive and understanding.” This attitude is especially helpful given that Sarah is now mum to three children, having given birth to her daughter Zoe in 2013. This means she needs to fit all her creative work around their needs. “Becoming a full-time blogger on top of my most important job of being a full-time mom isn’t easy,” she admits. “It’s a lot of work – I’m always multi-tasking.” This includes making time to read through a few carefully selected craft blogs. “I have quite a few fellow crochet and craft bloggers that I network with and keep in touch with on a daily basis,” she says. “I’m blessed to have met so many wonderful people since I started my blog! Among my favourites you’ll find Petals to Picots (www.petalstopicots. com), Happy Hour Projects (www. happyhourprojects.com), Seven Alive (www. seven-alive.com), and It Happens In A Blink (www.ithappensinablink.com).” Sarah reached a very exciting crochet milestone last year when her debut book, Corner-to-Corner Crochet, came out in

autumn 2016. “I am working on its promotion at the moment and hope that more opportunities to publish my work present themselves,” she explains. “Of course, I’ll continue posting my free patterns and tutorials on Repeat Crafter Me.” It all comes back to the fact that Sarah adores the multi-purpose nature of crochet. “You can create anything the heart desires,” she says. “Crochet is very versatile, and with knowledge of the basics, you can bring any design to life you like – whether that’s animal hats, amigurumi or accessories.” With all that stitching going on, we’re not at all surprised to learn that Sarah’s yarn collection is quietly taking over the family home. “Most of my crocheting is done at night after the kids are in bed,” she says. “I have a stash next to my bedside table. I also have a large stash downstairs by my crochet chair, in case I get a chance to do some daytime crochet. Whenever I get an idea, I tend to stop whatever I’m doing and pick up my hook and yarn, so I like to keep my crafting tools close by at all times!” Written by Judy Darley.

“CROCHET IS VERY VERSATILE, AND YOU CAN BRING ANY DESIGN TO LIFE THAT YOU LIKE.”

A few of her favourite things When Sarah puts down her hook...

“I love family time. We live in Southern California so we have the benefit of the nice weather and being able to take the kids to Disneyland and Legoland and other fun parks and attractions around the area. I always make sure to put down my crochet in favour of spending time with my husband and my kids!” Visit Sarah’s website at www.repeatcrafterme.com, where you can find free patterns and tutorials, plus crockpot recipes.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 61


LEARN THE LINGO Our essential guide to crochet slang. By Becca Parker.

Any crocheter worth their salt needs to know their WIPs from their CALs and how to use them. Confused already? Fear not. Here’s our foolproof run-down of the top crochet slang and phrases you might encounter at a stitch night, online or here in Simply Crochet. Think of it as your hooky cheat sheet. You’ll be fluent in no time. CAL (ACRONYM) Crochet-along. When crafters are invited to complete the same pattern, sometimes within a specified time period, often stage by stage. It’s a good challenge and fosters fuzzy feelings of community among participants. Psst! Check our Pick ‘n’ Mix blanket CAL on p30. C2C (ABBREVIATION) Corner-to-corner – an easy-peasy diagonal crochet technique. DESTASH (VERB) Sorting your stash in order to swap, sell, donate or discard unwanted yarns.

LYS (ACRONYM) Local Yarn Store STASH (NOUN) This is the name given to your ever-growing collection of yarn and/or craft supplies. E.g. Use any yellow DK from your stash. STASHBUSTING (NOUN) The practice of intentionally making things using yarn from your stash in an attempt to tame it. Beware, this can become a lengthy endeavour, depending on the magnitude of said yarn stash. SABLE (ACRONYM) Stash Accumulation Beyond Life Expectancy. The struggle is real. TREBLEMAKER (NOUN) A term given to gutsy crocheters. It’s a play on the word troublemaker and can be used interchangeably with hookster or, if you’re feeling extra cheeky, hooker. E.g. Join our online community by sharing your Simply Crochet makes with our hashtag #SCtreblemaker. WIP (ACRONYM) Work-in-progress

FROG (VERB) Frogging is the act of undoing your crochet, so-called because you ‘rip-it, rip-it’ like the onomatopoeic frog’s ‘ribbit ribbit’ sound. E.g. I went wrong in the first round so I’m frogging it. FO (ACRONYM) Finished Object. You may see UFO (Unfinished Object). E.g. So proud of my latest FO! HOTH (ACRONYM) Hot Off The Hook 62 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

YARN BOMB (VERB) The act of decorating public places with crochet or knitting, sometimes covertly. This art form is also known as yarn graffiti or yarn storming. Notable yarn bombers include Deadly Knitshade and Olek. Have we missed anything? What else would you add to this list? Tweet us! We’re @SimplyCrochet_

Left: Talking crochet with the Craftmoji app. Right: Our Pick ’n’ Mix CAL.

GOOD READ


d i a m d e o s n i d a s R ew stitch and how to use it in every n a r e v issue. Disco

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS Front Post double treble (FPdtr) Yrh twice, starting from the front, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of st in row below, complete as a double treble st. Front Post double treble 2 together (FPdtr2tog) *Yrh twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, [yrh and draw through 2 loops] twice; rep from * once more inserting hook around post of next st indicated, yrh and draw through all loops on hook. Pattern Front post double treble 2 together (PFPdtr2tog) *Yrh twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of post st to the right 2 rows below, yrh and pull up loop, [yrh and draw through 2 loops] twice; rep from * once more inserting hook around post of post st to the left 2 rows below, yrh and draw through all loops on hook.

NOTES When working dc on Rows 3, 5 and 7 always work behind the FPdtr sts. Each post st on

these rows counts as a st, so there will be a treble st of the previous row which remains unworked for each post st in these rows. All other sts in these rows are worked in dc. BASIC RAISED DIAMOND PATTERN See Chart on p93. Chain a multiple of 4, plus 1. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), skip st at base of beg ch-3, tr in each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), skip st at base of ch and next st, FPdtr around next st, dc in next 3 sts with the centre st of these in the same st as post just worked, *FPdtr2tog with the first ‘leg’ around the post of the previous post st, skip posts of next 3 sts and work second ‘leg’ around post of next st, dc in next 3 sts, with the centre st of these in the same st as second worked post; rep from * to end, turn. Row 4 Ch3 (counts as tr), skip st at base of beg ch-3, tr in each dc and each post stitch, turn. Row 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each of first 2 tr, (PFPdtr2tog, dc in next 3 sts with

the centre st of these in line with the head of the post st 2 rows below) rep to last 2 sts, FPdtr around post of post st to the right 2 rows below, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 6 As Row 4. Row 7 Ch1 (does not count as st), FPdtr around post of post st to the left 2 rows below, dc in next 3 sts with the centre st of these in the same st as post just worked, (PFPdtr2tog, dc in next 3 sts with the centre st of these in line with the head of the post st 2 rows below) rep to end, turn. Row 8 As Row 4. Rows 5-8 form pattern. On the sample, pattern ends on a Row 7 and is finished with a row of dc. Patterns by Kath Webber

Tun the page fo moe ceative idea to ue thi patten


A cuppa, a cosy corner and a stack of books is blissful, but it would be even better with these textured accessories.


N w stitch

Fringed Bookmark

You’ll be marking your place in your latest read the old-fashioned way with this little make. It’s a very small project, but the geometric texture, dreamy variegated yarn and playful fringing make it fun to hook. Why stop at just one? Q Scheepjes Spirit (56% cotton, 46% acrylic,

50g/210m), 1 ball of Turtle (308) For yarn stockists, contact www.scheepjes.com Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook

Glasses case

Keep your reading glasses in a stylish case handmade with masses of specs appeal. Q Scheepjes Spirit (56% cotton, 46% acrylic,

This dinky envelope-shaped case will help keep your earphones tidied away and tangle-free. It makes a thoughtful handmade gift for music-lovers, too.

Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook

Q Scheepjes Spirit (56% cotton, 46% acrylic,

50g/210m), 1 ball of Turtle (308)

Q 1.5cm (½in) wooden button

TENSION As for Bookmark

MEASUREMENTS 19x4cm (7½x1½in) BOOKMARK Ch41. Work Rows 1-5 as given for Basic Pattern. Rows 6-7 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st to end, turn. Fasten off, do not sew in ends. TO FINISH Make the fringing as follows: *cut 2 lengths of yarn approx 10cm long. Fold in half lengthwise, insert hook into row end, place folded yarn on hook, pull loops through, yrh with ends of yarn, pull through and tighten. Repeat from * along the row ends. Trim all ends to same length, using the image as a guide. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

50g/210m), 1 ball of Turtle (308)

Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook

Q 1.5cm (½in) wooden button Q Sewing needle and thread

MEASUREMENTS

TENSION

17x7.5cm (6¾x3in)

23 sts and 16 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over pattern using a 3.5mm hook or size needed to obtain correct tension

TENSION 23 sts and 16 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over pattern using a 3.5mm hook or size needed to obtain correct tension

Earphone pouch

GLASSES CASE Ch37. Rows 1-8 Work as given for Basic Pattern. Repeat (Rows 5-8) four more times. Repeat Row 5 once more. Row 35 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st to end, turn. Row 36 Ch1 (does not count as dc), dc in each of next 18 sts, ch5 for button loop, dc in each of next 18 sts. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Place piece flat with WS uppermost and Row 1 at bottom. Fold bottom row up, leaving around 2.5cm (1in) at the top for the flap. With RS facing, attach yarn to one corner. Working through both layers of fabric, make 14 dc into row ends/raw edge of fold to create a strong seam. Repeat on opposite side. Fasten off and weave in ends. Use a short length of yarn and embroidery needle to sew button on to match the loop.

MEASUREMENTS 7x7cm (2¾x2¾in) EARPHONE CASE Using Turtle, ch21. Rows 1-8 Work as given for Basic Pattern. Repeat (Rows 5-8) once more. Repeat Row 5 once more. Row 15 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st to end, ch5 for the button loop, rotate piece to work along row ends, dc evenly across to next corner. Fasten off, leaving a 20cm (8in) tail. TO FINISH Place the square flat with the WS uppermost. Fold 3 corners into the centre of the square, leaving the corner with the button loop unfolded. Using the long tail, whip stitch the row ends together to create a small envelope. Sew the button onto the centre of the fold. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 65


April showers Colourful spike stitch details create mesmerising raindrop effects in Kirsten Balleringâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blanket.


Baby b ank t EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

4.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED

They look pretty impressive, but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no need to be wary of spike stitches as theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not difficult to do. In fact, they work an absolute treat in this baby blanket to create rainbow droplets. The striking jewel tones of the super-soft Stonewashed DK yarn by Scheepjes make the project feel even more special. Grab your hook and dive right in.

Q

Scheepjes Stonewashed (78% cotton, 22% acrylic, 50g/130m), 8 balls of: Yarn A Moon Stone (801) 1 ball of each: Yarn B Carnelian (823) Yarn C Coral (816) Yarn D Lemon Quartz (812) Yarn E Canada Jade (806) Yarn F Green Agate (815) Yarn G Blue Apatite (805) Yarn H Deep Amethyst (811) Yarn I Corundum Ruby (808) Yarn J Rose Quartz (820) Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook For yarn stockists contact Scheepjes www.scheepjes.com

TENSION 15 htr and 12 Rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over htr using a 4.5m hook Tension is not critical but will affect yarn quantities and finished measurements

MEASUREMENTS Blanket measures 99x84cm (39x33in)

ABBREVIATIONS Spike Group Skip next htr, *yrh, insert hook in top of st 4 rows below, draw up loop, yrh and draw through all loops on hook (1st Spike St), htr in next htr, skip next htr; rep from * inserting hook 3 rows below, rep from * once again inserting hook 2 rows below [3 Spike Sts made] For a full list, see page 92

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BLANKET Using Yarn A, ch120. Row 1 (WS) Htr in the third ch from the hook and each ch across, turn. [119 htr] Rows 2-5 Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr in each st across, turn. Fasten off. Row 6 (RS) Join Yarn B in the first st, ch2, htr in next 2 sts, (Spike Group, htr in next 7 sts) 9 times, Spike Group, htr in last 3 sts, turn. Fasten off. Row 7 Join Yarn A in the first st, ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Rows 8-11 Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr in each st across, turn. Fasten off. Row 12 Join Yarn C in the first st, ch2, htr in next 8 sts, (Spike Group, htr in next 7 sts) 9 times, htr in last 2 sts, turn. Fasten off. Row 13 Join Yarn A in the first st, ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Rows 14-17 Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr in each st across, turn. Fasten off. Repeat rows (6-17) 8 more times, using a different contrast colour for each Spike row, working from the list of yarns in order starting with Yarn D.

The spike stitches are worked even across the blanket so the colours are balanced.

Four simple half treble rounds in four different shades make up the border.

Round 3 Join Yarn E in the first st, ch2, htr in next st, 3htr in corner st, htr in each st around, working 3htr into centre htr of 3-htr corner groups, ss to the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off. Round 4 Join Yarn F in first st, ch2, htr in next 2 sts, 3htr in corner st, htr in each st around, working 3htr into centre htr of 3-htr corner groups, ss to the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

BORDER Continuing with Yarn A and working from the RS: Round 1 Ch2 (counts as htr), 2htr in st at base of ch, htr in each st across to last st, 3htr in last st, rotate the blanket to work into row ends, htr in each row end across to next corner, rotate the blanket to work into starting ch, 3htr in first ch, htr in each ch across to last ch, 3htr in last ch, rotate the blanket to work into row ends, htr in each row end across to first st, ss to the top of the beginning ch-2 to join. Fasten off. Round 2 Join Yarn D in the first st, ch2, 3htr in corner st, htr in each st around, working 3htr into centre htr of 3-htr corner groups, ss to the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 67


Yarn power Next time you find yourself craving a new ball to bump up your stash, consider how the yarns you choose to buy can make all the difference.


GOOD READ

W

hen buying yarn, our love of texture and colour often takes over, but have you thought about how your purchases could improve the lives of others? Across the world, skilled artisans, many of whom are women, depend on the income they make from yarn they card, spin and dye. We speak to the people who have sought out ways to support the livelihoods of people all around the world, while producing exceptionally beautiful yarns. GOOD INTENTIONS Susan Inglis was moved to found From The Mountain Sources (www.fromthemountain. com) after falling in love with Afghan cashmere yarns and discovering the plight faced by many families in the country. “I love the way the yarn feels. I love the colours. I love using every scrap of it,” she enthuses. “Most of all, I love my connection to the hands that spun it, my fingers running over the same fibres the spinner’s fingers ran along as she was making the yarn.” These 100% cashmere yarns provide sustainable livelihoods for women in Afghanistan. “Cashmere is a valuable commodity,” says Susan. “In a war-torn country where opium poppies have long served as a major cash crop, cashmere is an important alternative. Fortunately the country has many cashmere goats in rural areas.” Julie Colquitt established Yarn Yarn (www.yarnyarn.co.uk) in 2008 after falling for sari silk yarn and discovering that of tons of silk waste goes to landfill every year. “Not only do Indian sari silk yarns offer a remarkable spectrum of colour and texture, but the ethical properties excited me,” she says. “These are handmade unique yarns made by women from waste in very poor areas of India. It’s a win-win situation!” Julie sources the silk waste from Indian sari mills, which local artisans then spin into

Mirasol alpacas in Peru. Left: Manos Yarn dyeing in Fraile Muerto.

gorgeous yarns. This provides a vital income as well as helping skills to thrive. As Julie states on the Yarn Yarn website: “We want to create a sustainable cycle of employment and women’s empowerment. If we continue to buy these products, these villages continue to survive.” Manos del Uruguay (www.manosyarns. com) was founded in 1968 by Manila Ch. De Vivo, Olga Artagaveytia, Sara Beisso, Dora Muñoz and Maria del Carmen Bocking. “They were ranch owners who shared the goal of creating jobs for the hundreds of skilled craftswomen in Uruguay’s countryside,” says Cecilia Lelanne from the company. The initial idea was to market the handicrafts of women “whose skills, creativity and working potential was wasted. The founders wanted an organisation that was not only for the women but also by the women, so the idea of co-operatives was there from the start.” Getting Manos to where it is today took a lot of work, faith and enthusiasm, Cecilia tells us, “as well as lots of training and support, plus the efforts of countless volunteers.” The Mirasol Yarn Collection (www.mirasol. com) supports the Mirasol School, which is an initiative of Michell & Cia and yarn

“We want to create a sustainable cycle of employment.”

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distributors in the US, Canada, UK and Scandinavia. Their aim is to improve the education of the children in the Muñani area of Puno, Peru. Raul Rivera is Marketing Manager at Michell, the leading alpaca yarn spinner in Peru. “We’re always involved in activities in the Peruvian Highlands, since that’s where all the alpaca breeding happens in Peru and where we obtain our fibre,” he says. “Michell currently buy between 55 to 60% of the Peruvian alpaca clip.” FAC I N G U P TO C H A L L E N G E S The ongoing war in Afghanistan continues to create challenges for Susan. “There are few roads in Afghanistan and when one closes it causes a severe interruption of supply for us,” she says. “At the moment, fighting in Kunduz is particularly problematical, but the problems it causes our business are nothing compared with the problems for the citizens of that province!” The co-operative nature of Manos means that artisans maintain their independence, but this required a steep learning curve. “They’ve had to learn how to organise themselves, administrate the co-operative and direct Manos, as the directors’ board is elected amongst the artisans,” explains Cecilia. “They also need to achieve the levels of consistency and quality that are our pride and which our high-end clients expect.” For Manos as a company, the biggest challenge is “how to take care of our social aim, while remaining competitive with other WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 69


Clockwise from above left: Manos artisan Vanesa, photography by Olivia Perez; Manos Yarn dyeing in Fraile Murto; Mirasol school pupils, photograph by Michell & Cia; Manos Yarn in Fraile Muerto.

textile suppliers. To do this, we need to find ways to communicate our story and connect with clients that appreciate and value it.” The Mirasol School hosts nearly 50 children, and has been accredited by the Ministry of Education of Peru. However, in the beginning, even the building was problematic. “Michell donated the space for the school and we had to build from scratch,” says Raul. “The altitude – 4,000 metres above sea level – and the weather conditions made this a challenge.” They also had to be flexible in their thinking for the school. “In the first year we started teaching all the classes in Spanish, but we soon saw that many of the children were struggling. So we changed to teaching in Quechua, a native language in the Peruvian Highland and second official language in Peru. Then the magic happened, as all the kids started learning so much quicker.” Maintaining the school is an ongoing issue. “At Michell we support about 70% of the 70 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

project, with 30% coming from the distributors we work with at Mirasol Yarns,”explains Raul. “We’re trying to get more and more people involved to share the costs of financing the school year on year.” Julie has spent years making Yarn Yarn successful. “Working with people so far away can be difficult,” she says. “There have been many, many obstacles such as buying in huge bulk, customs and taxes, the language barrier and money, which are the reasons I now visit and work directly with these people.” She warns: “Setting up your own business and sustaining any sort of living from it is a very long and difficult process. The main element behind setting up your own business is passion! All things lead from this.” I M P R O V I N G C I R C U M S TA N C E S In 2007, Michell initiated the building of a school. “We identified that the children were getting poor education in the area and the

kids had to walk very long distances – up to three hours each way – to reach their classes,” Raul says. “Most of these kids are the children of alpaca shepherds. “We came up with the idea of making a boarding school, for first to sixth grade, where the kids could stay from Monday to Friday, get a proper education, and do extra curricular activities such as weaving or planting vegetables, as well as being fed properly.” Julie relishes the fact that through Yarn Yarn she enables her customers to help to alleviate poverty. “We want to give back to these communities, use up waste and also keep ancient crafting traditions alive,” she says. “With every purchase our customers make, with every sale of our yarns and hand crafted products, we aim to support and provide sustainable living within these communities. “In many parts of India, spinning yarns is their only source of income. The artisans that make your products have a quality of life and do not need to go to the cities in search of work that doesn’t exist, and live in slums.” In Afghanistan, years as a conflict zone has resulted in many civilian casualties, which has left women needing to support their families. “This is problematic because there are few opportunities for women to work, especially in rural areas,” explains Susan. “Spinning the yarn for us provides a network of about 100 women a way to earn income from home as they also care for their families.” Another significant change over the ages is that school is now available to many more children, providing that the fighting isn’t too severe where they are. “School fees must be paid, however, and that’s an important use of household income in today’s Afghanistan.” At the time when Manos launched, there were few possibilities for women in rural Uruguay to find work. “There was great poverty and women were highly dependent on their husbands,” says Cecilia. “Usually they wouldn’t finish school and stayed at home to raise children, occasionally doing laundry, cleaning or sewing jobs.” Becoming part of Manos has the potential to change these women’s circumstances for the better. “It allows the women not only to provide for their families, but become more independent and aware of their own


GOOD READ

Left: Julie Colquitt with Yarn Yarn artisans. Right: Manos Yarn dyeing in Fraile Muerto.

possibilities,” says Cecilia. “It gives them the tools to own their lives.” In the 1970s and 80s, many people were forced to move from their villages to find work in Uruguay’s capital city, Montevideo. But being employed in Manos co-operatives enabled the artisans to stay at home, keeping families together and helping them to retain their roots and quality of life. Cecilia works with local spinners to develop the yarns and colours that will become new lines for Manos. “The co-operatives are located in very small towns and take an active part in the village community, so the benefits spread through it,” she says. LOOKING TO THE FUTURE The efforts of the companies we’ve spoken to allow families to stay together and retain age-old skills, even as their needs have altered. “These days, most household textiles and clothing is made elsewhere and the household now needs cash income,” says Susan. “Having a market for their handspun yarn continues to sustain the families and the communities in their current lifestyle.” There are ways we can ensure that our own yarn choices have a positive, rather than a detrimental, impact. The first step, Susan says, is to ask the right questions. “Always ask what it’s made of. Always ask where it’s made,” she says. “Favour natural fibres, and minimally processed ones. Fortunately, many yarn companies have very Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

good answers for our questions, and will be eager to share their story.” Happily, as Julie points out, yarns made from upcycled, recycled and waste materials are on the increase in people’s crafting consciousness. “We’re making jumpers, bags, hats and more out of old T-shirts and other materials,” she says. “There are so many exciting new projects going on out there using yarns other than wool. These offer so many possibilities for contemporary crochet, and fibre artworks.” Cecilia urges us to buy less and buy better. “Consumption frugality means making more thoughtful purchases, taking sustainability into consideration, and thinking about the social and environmental impacts,” she explains. “This is especially true when we’re talking about a yarn, as you are going to invest a lot of time, care and effort into a crochet project. There’s no point in selecting a cheap, use-and-discard yarn. You should choose a yarn that feels good to crochet and wear, and doesn’t give you buyer’s guilt!” It helps that the Manos yarns are a delight to crochet with. “You can fall in love with it for its buttery softness and gorgeous colours, and feel good by knowing that your purchase is

helping a very good cause,” enthuses Cecilia. “Each skein that you purchase helps a woman in Uruguay to provide for her family. You can see her name on the yarn tag, so you know who you are helping and you can feel the connection with her.” Raul has been struck by the increase in people’s interest in where the yarns they buy are made, and whether producing them has any social impact. “The Mirasol Yarn Collection is a truly social yarn line, since it’s making such a significant improvement in the lives of children attending Mirasol School,” he says. “We have seen how the kids are learning better, and gaining more confidence without losing their own traditions and culture. “I personally visit the school once or twice a year and it is such a joy to see the kids being happy, well fed and getting an education. When you see that, you know your efforts are making a difference.” Quite simply, by putting some thought into your yarn choices, you really can help to change lives for the better. And in our opinion, that knowledge can make your next crochet project an even more satisfying endeavour. Written by Judy Darley.

“There are so many exciting projects using yarns other than wool.”

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 71


Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a peach Keep your toes oh-so toasty with this pair of cosy pastel socks designed by Kristi Simpson.


S ipp r socks EASY PEASY LIGHT DK WEIGHT

2.75MM HOOK

Designer Kristi Simpson says: “These beautiful tailored socks require only basic crochet stitches. Wear them as slipper socks around the house or outside with clogs for a casual look.“ It’s the perfect project if you’re new to socks. Try it!

YOU WILL NEED

NOTES

Q

Bernat Softee Baby, (100% acrylic, 140g/331m), 1 ball of Soft Peach [30410] Q A 2.75mm (US C/2) hook Q Stitch marker For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

Each slipper sock is worked in sections: the cuff is crocheted in rows, then sewn together. Yarn is joined at the cuff and the leg is worked in joined rounds. The heel is worked in rows, then the gusset and foot are crocheted continuously in the round. The toe section of the sock is sewn together at the end.

TENSION

SOCKS (MAKE 2)

20 sts and 20 rows in double crochet over 10cm (4in) square using 2.75mm hook or size needed to obtain tension

MEASUREMENTS Women’s Small (Medium: Large) Length: 20.5 (23: 25.5)cm, 8 (9: 10)in Width: 9 (10: 10)cm, 3½ (4: 4)in

LEG Round 1 (RS) Join yarn at seam of Cuff, ready to work into row ends of Cuff: Ch2 (counts as tr), skip next row end, *(3tr, ch2, tr) in next row end, skip 3 row ends; rep from * around, ss to beg ch-2 to join, turn. [29 (33: 37) sts] Rounds 2-5 Ch2 (counts as first tr), (3tr, ch2, tr) in each ch-2 sp, ss to beg ch-2 to join, turn. Round 6 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch2), *dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next st, ch2; repeat from * around, ss to second ch of beg ch-4 to join, turn. [31 (35: 39) sts]

HEEL Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), skip st at base of ch, dc in each stitch and ch around, ss to first dc, turn. [30 (34: 38) sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc, turn, leaving rem sts unworked. [15 (17: 19) sts] Work another 6 (7: 8) rows of dc on these 15 (17: 19) sts. Large size only Next row (RS) Ch1, dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 13 dc, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn. [17 sts] Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Large & Medium sizes only Next row (WS) Ch1, dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 11 dc, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn. [15: 15 sts]

CUFF Ch8. Row 1 Dc in second chain from hook and each ch across, turn. [7 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), working in back loop only, dc in each st across, turn. Repeat Row 2 until you have completed 30 (34: 38) rows. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use long tail to sew short ends together.

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

These socks are worked from the cuff down, with the cuff worked in rows the sewn up.

All sizes Next row (RS) Ch1, dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn. [13 sts] Repeat last row 4 more times, do not turn. [5 sts]

GUSSET Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 14 (15: 15) dc into row ends of heel towards leg, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc across leg, 14 (15: 15) dc into row ends of heel, dc in each of next 5 dc along bottom of heel, ss to first dc to join into the round, do not turn at the end of the round from now on. [48 (52: 54) sts] Round 2 Mark first st with stitch marker, ch1, dc in each of next 12 (13: 13) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 17 (18: 18) dc, ss to first dc. [46 (50: 52) sts] Round 3 Ch1, dc in each of next 11 (12: 12) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 16 (17: 17) dc, ss to first dc. [44 (48: 50) sts] Round 4 Ch1, dc in each of next 10 (11: 11) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (16: 16) dc, ss to first dc. [42 (46: 48) sts] Round 5 Ch1, dc in each of next 9 (10: 10) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 14 (15: 15) dc, ss to first dc. [40 (44: 46) sts] Round 6 Ch1, dc in each of next 8 (9: 9) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 13 (14: 14) dc, ss to first dc. [38 (42: 44) sts] Round 7 Ch1, dc in each of next 7 (8: 8) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 12 (13: 13) dc, ss to first dc. [36 (40: 42) sts] WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 73


S ipp r socks Round 8 Ch1, dc in each of next 6 (7: 7) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 11 (12: 12) dc, ss to first dc. [34 (38: 40) sts]

dc, ss to first dc. [36 sts] Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 7 dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc. [32 sts]

Large & Medium sizes only Round 9 Ch1, dc in each of next (6: 6) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next (17: 19) dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next (11: 11) dc, ss to first dc. [36: 38 sts]

Small & Large sizes only Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 6 dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc. [28 sts] Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 5 dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc. [24 sts] Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 4 dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc. [20 sts] Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 3 dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc. [16 sts]

FOOT Round 1 Ch1, dc in each stitch around, ss to first dc. [34 (36: 38) sts] Repeat Round 1 another 11 (13: 17) times. Small size only Next round Ch1, dc in each of next 15 dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 dc, dc2tog, ss to first dc. [32 sts] Medium size only Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 4 dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc. [30 sts] Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 3 dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc. [24 sts] Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 2 dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc. [18 sts] Next round Ch1, *dc in next dc, dc2tog; rep from * around, ss to first dc. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Small size only Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 2 dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Large size only Fasten off, leaving a long tail. TO MAKE UP With the wrong side of the slipper sock facing out, sew the toe opening tog in alignment with the heel. Weave in ends. Turn right side out.

Large size only Next round Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 17 dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 17

The leg section of the sock is worked in rounds after the cuff, and has a shell look.

The toe seams on each of these slipper socks are sewn together neatly right at the end.

The crochet pattern for these cosy slipper socks is from the book 25 Cozy Crocheted Slippers by Kristi Simpson, published by Stackpole Books (RRP £14.95). To find stockists of this book and further details, visit www.stackpolebooks.com

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO DECREASE IN DOUBLE CROCHET (DC2TOG)

1 Start by inserting the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row. Begin to work a double crochet stitch in the usual way, working yrh and pull loop through (2 loops on hook).

74 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

2 Without finishing the first dc, begin the next dc by inserting the hook in the next stitch on the previous row. Again, work yrh and pull loop through (3 loops on hook).

3 Now complete both dc stitches together by working yrh and pull this loop through all 3 loops on the hook.

4 This is how your completed dc2tog should look. You will have neatly decreased one stitch. On subsequent rows, you can simply work a stitch into the top of the dc2tog stitch as usual.


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✿ 25 cute and quick ideas ✿ Great gift ideas to crochet now ✿ Hats, cosies, slippers and more! Plus, don’t miss Joanne Scrace's Tunisian tutorial, be inspired by our chat with unique designer and blogger Isabelle Kessedjian and browse the latest crochet news, reviews and more!

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YARN REVIEWS

l y e a t rn s s a P s, sparkles and unicorn-worthy shades e l k c e p . S CRESCENT MOON MOTIF

Ch13. ROW 1 (RS) Ss in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc in next ch, 2htr in next ch, 2tr in each of next 2ch, 3tr in each of next 2ch, 2tr in each of next 2ch, 2htr in next ch, 2dc in next ch, ss in next ch, turn. ROW 2 Skip ss, dc in each of next 4 sts, htr in each of next 3 sts, 2tr in next st, tr in each of next 6 sts, 2tr in next st, htr in each of next 3 sts, dc in each of next 4 sts, ss in ss. FASTEN OFF and weave in ends.

Make a d baby mobeamy ile


Yarn r vi ws Scheepjes Stardust

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 75% acrylic, 11% mohair, 11% wool, 3% metallic polyester BALL 100g/540m HOOK 3-3.5mm RRP £5.49 On paper, this is an unusual blend of fibres, but it works really well – the acrylic provides a strong, durable base, while the wool and mohair add a soft halo and the metallic fibres add a subtle sparkle that’s bang on trend. Stardust is easy to hook with and comes in 14 pretty

Sirdar Snuggly tutti fruitti WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 80% polyester, 20% rayon BALL 50g/95m HOOK 5mm RRP £2.99

colourways (nine solid and five variegated), each named after a different star constellation, which we adore. What could be better for inspiring you to reach for the stars with your crochet makes, confident that the fabric you create will shine out? www.scheepjes.com

Just like hooking with cloud, Sirdar’s new Tutti Frutti is a joy to work with. It’s a chenille yarn so it’s soft and warm. What makes this yarn special is the extra rayon fibres that are spun right in with the chenille fibres. These contrasting flashes of colour create variegated effects

James C Brett Baby twinkle DK Print

Rico baby Dream DK

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 65% acrylic, 28% supersoft nylon, 7% lurex BALL 100g/300m HOOK 4mm RRP £2.99

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 50% acrylic, 50% polyamide BALL 50g/122m HOOK 4mm RRP £3.39

All your pastel fantasies have come true with this yarn, which includes interesting colour effects as well as sparkly bits. Baby Twinkle DK Print is wonderfully soft for babies and children, yet also strong and machine-washable at 30˚C. It’s light and easy to work with, yet

it feels snuggly when held close. Each of the 15 colours has a pastel base, with a delicate sprinkle of shimmer and touches of contrasting colour dotted on top. This yarn is a great-value pastel choice. www.jamescbrett.co.uk 01274 565959

The tagline for this yarn is ‘A Luxury Touch’ and we couldn’t agree more – one touch and you’ll be smitten. It’s the most plump and squashable yarn using man-made fibres that we’ve ever hooked with and the fabric feels amazing next to the skin. It’s light yet cosy, making it

and a playful texture that’s really fun for kids. It comes in six mouth-watering, multicoloured shades with sweetie names like Strawberry Laces, Dolly Mixture and Cola Cube. Perfect for cosy baby blankets, hats and toys. www.sirdar.co.uk 01924 231682

a great all-rounder for any project to give to little ones. Dream DK comes in six shades, all variegated, with interesting combinations of colours that create self-striping effects and a wonderful depth of colour. Contact your local Rico Design retailer or online stockist.

DROPS Muskat

Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 100% cotton BALL 50g/100m HOOK 4mm RRP £1.45

WEIGHT Chunky CONTENT 100% acrylic BALL 100g/136m HOOK 6mm RRP £2.25

One of our faves, DROPS Muskat is a beautiful cotton yarn that’s a dream to work with. It feels soft, smooth and strong, thanks to its high-quality, long Egyptian cotton fibres that have been mercerised to add shine and make the yarn slide easily over the hook. The resulting Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

fabric has a lovely drape that suits almost any project. There are 37 gorgeous colours to choose from and they all tone really well together, which is particularly good for creating ombre colour effects. www.woolwarehouse.co.uk 01926 882818

Paintbox Yarns is a fairly new yarn brand, exclusive to LoveCrochet. The appeal of their yarns is the huge choice of colours available, including pastel shades and jewel tones, as well as fab free patterns. Simply Chunky comes in a whopping 60 colours so if you

can dream it, the chances are they’ll have it. It’s a soft acrylic yarn that’s super-easy to hook with – it has a lovely smoosh but it’s also durable and non-stretchy. The chunky size means it hooks up quickly. www.lovecrochet.com 0845 544 2196 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 77


Show us yours Join our gang of Treble Makers and share your thoughts and makes with us, for a chance to be featured here, use our hashtag #Sctreblemaker

PRETTY IN PINK W Reader Gem

Harman should be proud of the frock she made for her friend’s daughter – it’s fantastic! We like the addition of the pink corsage. Missed the pattern in issue 33? Download it from our Ravelry store at http://bit.ly/ sc54dress

WINNER!

DOUBLE TAP

We’ve been double tapping on Instagram and admiring your makes. Tag us @simplycrochetmag and use the hashtag #SCtreblemaker.

DEER OH DEER

Y

ou’re going to love this – the inventive stitcher @abluebirdonmyshoulder made removable noses in black and red for her Vanessa Mooncie reindeer trophy head from Simply Crochet issue 51. This means he can be proudly displayed all year round, not just at Christmas time. Wish we’d thought of that!

WINNER!

she’s Such a Doll

It was the playful details and delicate embroidery on our issue 44 amigurumi kokeshi dolls that really stole our hearts. French reader @lejardindeceline has definitely done justice to the original design with her pretty pink and yellow version. She made it as part of an Instagram craft swap – such a lovely idea. How neat are those little stitches? And the quirky facial expression is spot-on, too. If you missed Becky Garratt’s kokeshi dolls in Simply Crochet, turn to page 94 to find out about our back issues.

THE LOWDOWN It’s simple to be in with a chance of winning a fab yarn pack from Cygnet!

Three winners will each recieve 10 mixed balls of Whopper Cotton yarn. Just show us your Simply Crochet makes on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or via email or post by 5 February. For all terms and conditions, visit www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/competitionrules

RIGHT ROUND Keen crocheter @squishymini_ has been busy hooking the Mega Mandala blanket from our issue 33 Bright Blankets collection. So far so good. Now we can’t wait to see how it turns out. FOR BABY This one takes us back – reader @crafting_a_ london_balcony is expecting a little one soon (huge congrats) so she’s making a pair of cute baby bootees from issue 3.

BUTTON IT Speedy stitcher @dollmacable crocheted this hat from our issue 52 Winter Warmers collection not long after it came out. It looks so cosy and and she’s made good use of that jumbo wooden button.

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WINNER!

FAB FLORALS

This version of the Petal Power design from our Bright Blankets issue 33 collection is simply glorious. Jools Inan switched up the yarn for this make, letting her daughter pick a lively palette of DROPS Paris cotton. The cream background helps those shades pop!

This month we asked you..

TWICE AS SWEET

Cheryl Bradley made Twinkie Chan’s jumbo cushions from issue 45 for her daughters.

What new technique would you LOVE to master this year? @Emma Sews Tuniian cochet, got a hook and a book but not tied it yet

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COMPETITION RULES By Promoter: Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (“Promoter”). By taking part in one of our Competitions, you agree to be bound by these Competition Rules. Late or incomplete entries will be disqualified. No responsibility accepted for lost, delayed, ineligible or fraudulent entries. Proof of posting (if relevant) shall not be deemed proof of delivery. Entries must be submitted by an individual (not via any agency or similar) and, unless otherwise stated, are limited to one per household. The Promoter reserves the right in its sole discretion to substitute any prize with cash or a prize of comparable value. Unless otherwise stated, the Competition is open to all UK residents of 18 years and over, except employees of the Promoter and any party involved in the competition or their households. By entering a Competition you give permission to use your name, likeness and personal information in connection with the Competition and for promotional purposes. All entries will become the property of the Promoter upon receipt and will not be returned. You warrant that the Competition entry is entirely your own work and not copied or adapted from any other source. If you are a winner, you may have to provide additional information. Details of winners will be available on request within three months of the closing date. If you are a winner, receipt by you of any prize is conditional upon you complying with (among other things) the Competition Rules. You acknowledge and agree that neither the Promoter nor any associated third parties shall have any liability to you in connection with your use and/or possession of your prize. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. If any winner is unable to be contacted within one month of the closing date, the Promoter will offer the prize to a runner up. Promoter reserves the right to substitute the prize with one of the same or greater value but there is no cash alternative. Competitions in issue 54 are open from 00:01 on 2 February 2017 until 11:59pm on 1 March 2017. For Terms and Conditions of the competition on page 78, see www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk


p o h s k Wor u the we show yo Evey iue to make you’ll need e u iq n ch te home. gs fo you in th l fu ti u bea

Learn to felt

DISCOVER HOW TO MAKE GORGEOUS ITEMS VIA WASHING! Felting is an ancient way of creating fabric and many of us discover it by accident when washing a woollen make on the wrong setting! Too hot or too vigorous a wash and a man-size jumper can shrink to child size. But as crocheters, we can harness wool’s eagerness to felt to create items such as slippers, bags and bowls, all benefitting from the dense, warm, and hard-wearing qualities of felt. Just crochet your item using 100% wool yarn, then wash it in hot water with soap and some agitation – the fibres will magically mat together into felt and the item will shrink. Want to know the science behind this? The wool fibres in your yarn have cuticles running along the length, which open up when they are placed in hot water.

tuLip bOwl p83

Soap adds lubrication, allowing the fibres to run over each other more easily, while the agitation encourages the fibres to get closer and mat together. This process is more accurately called fulling, but felting is the umbrella term that tends to be used. Read on and we’ll explain exactly what to do to start your own felting journey.

what yarns and stitches should I use? Learn the best techniques to create your felted pieces. You need a 100% wool yarn, although you can felt with other animal fibres. Don’t use ‘superwash’ wool because this will have been treated to resist felting. If the ball band states ‘hand wash in cold water’, that’s a good sign. You can use any yarn weight, but felting will make a thick fabric even thicker. Next, decide on your stitch pattern. It’s best to start with dc stitches – they create a dense fabric with fibres close enough to felt easily. Once you gain confidence, you can try texture, colourwork and even lace patterns (although if these are too dense, they can disappear during felting). The key to felting is experimentation, so if you see a stitch pattern you like, swatch it and felt it to see how it turns out. 80 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Before

after

13cm

13cm

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Psst

Don’ t t h o – felted w away yo u  swa fabr tch e out shape ic won’ t f  ay so  c  t o u e in projec ut t .

what hook should I use? Selecting the best tools for the job.

For felting, it’s best to use a hook that’s one or two sizes up from your usual one for the weight of yarn – the wool fibres need space to loosen up and rub together, so the stitches need to be not too close and not too far apart. The hook size depends on the yarn, the stitches and your tension, so it’s a good idea to make some swatches to see

Before

which one creates a better result. We did this swatch (see below) with a chunky wool, dc stitches and a 10mm and 15mm hook. After felting, both swatches look good, but the smaller swatch was slightly easier to hook and felted more easily and evenly.

after

13cm

11cm

13cm

10cm

after

Before

17cm

18cm Find us on www.facebook.com/simplycrochetmag

14cm

12cm WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 81


hop

Works

how does the shrink factor work?

Before

Making sure your work felts to the right size. After felting, the gap between the fibres has reduced, making the fabric denser and reducing the overall size of each swatch. The fibres also become much softer and colourwork patterns are gently blended. The ‘shrink factor’ is also a key aspect of felting, and crochet fabrics usually tend to shrink more widthways than they do lengthways because of the larger gap between the stitches than the rows. Calculating the amount that your fabric shrinks is vital to being able to crochet an item that will measure a certain size after felting, and swatching is a vital part of this process. Let’s take our swatch worked with a 10mm hook as an example – it has 10 sts and 12 rows to 13cm square before felting. After felting, it’s 10cm wide and 11cm high. To calculate the shrink factor, work as follows: Measurement after felting (10cm) divided by

measurement before felting (13cm) = Shrink factor (0.77). You can use the shrink factor to work out how big your item will be after felting. For example, you’ve made a rug 145cm square, so work 145 multiplied by 0.77 = 112cm after felting. You can also use the shrink factor to work out how big to crochet your item to achieve a specific measurement after felting. For example, suppose you want a felt hat that’s 60cm circumference, so work 60 divided by 0.77 = 78cm. So you will need to crochet the hat to 78cm circumference. Then use the swatch to calculate how many stitches you need to achieve that 78cm, by working: Desired size (78) divided by Swatch size (13) = Stitch ratio (6). Stitch ratio (6) multiplied by Stitches in the swatch (10) = Stitches needed (60). You’d therefore need to crochet 60 stitches for your hat.

after

how do i felt my work? It’s time to start getting creative!

Written by Becky Skuse

Before you felt a fabric, always make a note of the yarn and hook you used, and its measurements. Then record exactly how you felt the fabric: the water temperature, soap used, how long it washed for, hand or machine method, etc. This is all so that you can reproduce the results another time. Now you’re ready to have some fun! You can felt your fabric by hand or in your washing machine, so try both methods and see which one you prefer. Felting by hand will involve more time and effort but it does give you much more control over the size and texture of the resulting fabric. To felt by hand, fill a bowl with water that’s as hot as you can stand and add a little soap, such as hand soap. Protect your hands with rubber gloves, then immerse your crochet fabric in the water. Leave it for around ten minutes for the heat to take effect and then 82 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

get rubbing! Keep going until the fibres mat together and the piece is the size you want. This might take 30 minutes or more, but the key is to just be patient. To felt in the machine, place your crochet fabric in a mesh bag or pinned-up pillowcase so it won’t escape. Place inside your machine and add a couple of old towels or a pair of jeans to increase the agitation. Set it to a 40˚C wash, but without the rinse or spin. If you can, check on the progress of your piece after 10 minutes. Keep putting it back in the machine for two minutes at a time until you’re happy with the size. Once it’s felted to your satisfaction, rinse in cold water to ‘set’ the fibres. Place onto a folded up towel and roll up to squeeze out the excess water – don’t wring or your item may become misshapen. Block the piece if needed and leave it to dry.


f t d bow

Bowled over Put your new skills to the test with this pretty tulip-shaped felted pot. By Becky Skuse.

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f t d bow EASY PEASY SUPER CHUNKY

10MM 15MM

YOU WILL NEED Q

Twilleys Freedom Wool (100% wool, 50g/50m), 2 balls of each: Yarn A Red Pepper (1117) Yarn B Paprika (1105) 1 ball of Yarn C Pistachio (1108) Q A 10mm (US N/15) hook Q A 15mm (US P/19) hook For yarn stockists contact TB Ramsden 01943 872264 www.tbramsden.co.uk

TENSION 5 sts and 5 rows to measure 10x10cm over dc using a 15mm hook and yarn held double, before felting

MEASUREMENTS Before felting: 19cm (7½in) tall, 22cm (8½) diameter After felting: 16cm (6½in) tall, 20cm (8in) diameter

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

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Becky says: “When you’re starting out on your felting adventures, a good project is one that doesn’t need to be a specific size, such as this bowl, just in case the felting process doesn’t go as planned.” The green lines are worked afterwards using surface crochet to emphasise the flower petals, but these are optional extras and the bowl will look just as good without them.

NOTES If you don’t want to work the petal lines, when you crochet Top Edging work into both loops of large petal sts instead of just the back loops. The Inner Base piece helps to strengthen base of bowl and cover any unsightly joins made when working the petal lines. Omit this piece if desired. FLOWER BOWL Using a 15mm hook and 2 strands of Yarn C held together, make a magic ring. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 6dc into ring, ss to first dc to join. [6 dc] Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. [12 dc] Round 3 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [18 dc] Fasten off Yarn C and weave in ends. Holding Yarns A and B tog, join in any st. Round 4 Ch1, (dc in each of next 5 dc, 2dc in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [21 dc] Round 5 Ch1, (dc in each of next 6 dc, 2dc in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [24 dc] Round 6 Ch1, (dc in each of next 7 dc, 2dc in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [27 dc] Round 7 Ch1, (dc in each of next 8 dc, 2dc in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [30 dc] Round 8 Ch1, (dc in each of next 9 dc, 2dc in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [33 dc] Round 9 Ch1, (dc in each of next 10 dc, 2dc in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [36 dc] Round 10 Ch1, (dc in each of next 11 dc, 2dc in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [39 dc] Rounds 11-12 Ch1, dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. Round 13 Ch1, (dc in each of next 11 dc, dc2tog) around, ss to first dc to join. [36 dc] Round 14 Ch1, (dc in each of next 10 dc, dc2tog) around, ss to first dc to join. [33 dc] Round 15 Ch1, (dc in each of next 9 dc,

When viewed from above, this striking felted bowl reveals a contrasting green base. dc2tog) around, ss to first dc to join. [30 dc] Round 16 (petals) *Ss in next dc, htr in each of next 2 dc, ss in next dc (small petal formed), ss in next dc, htr in next dc, tr in each of next 2 dc, htr in next dc, ss in next dc (large petal formed); rep from * twice more, ss to first ss to join. [3 small petals, 3 large petals] Fasten off and weave in ends.

PETAL LINES Using 2 strands of Yarn C and a 10mm hook, surface crochet the outline of the larger petals using the image as a guide. Join Yarn at edge of Round 3 at base of bowl, working upwards, surface crochet to top of bowl to first st of a large petal. At top of bowl, work in the front loops of sts of large petal, using a 15mm hook as follows: ss into ss, dc in each of next 4 sts, ss into ss. Then work surface crochet downwards towards to base of bowl. Do not fasten off, start next petal line from here. Rep this process to outline all three large petals, finishing at the point where you started. Fasten off and weave in ends.

TOP EDGING Rejoin Yarn C at top of bowl, in first st of a small petal. *In sts of small petal, work: ss into ss, dc in each of next 2 sts, ss into ss. In the back loops of sts of next large petal work: ss into ss, dc in each of next 4 sts, ss into ss; rep from * twice more, ss to first ss to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

INNER BASE Using Yarn C, work as given for Flower Bowl to the end of Round 3. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Place this piece centrally in base of bowl and sew in place using long tail. Weave in rem ends. FELTING Felt the bowl as described in the workshop. Ours was felted by hand to the measurements stated.


WORKSHOPS D O RSE T

MARKETPLACE STAFFO RD SHIRE

Bridport Yarn, 35a South Street, Bridport, Dorset DT6 3NY

Stockists of knitting and crochet yarns by Sirdar, Sublime Baby, Hayfield, , Wend r Pan and Robin s and accessories Kin

01308 455669 info@bridportyarn.co.uk www.bridportyarn.co.uk

‘Yarn’ is a fun, inspirational and quirky sanctuary for all knitters and crocheters. Workshops, support and advice to help you on your creative journey.

B E D FO RD SHIRE Raleigh House, Ampthill Road, BEDFORD MK42 9HE www.bedfordcraftscentre.co.uk 01234 266510

Beginners Crochet: This one day workshop will cover the basics to get you hooking, as well as introducing basic pattern reading. Sat 04/03/17 10:00-14:00, £25 – Stephanie Phillips Freeform Crochet: By the end of the day you will have gained a basic knowledge of freeform design concepts and have created a "scrumble" that could be worn in a piece of free form crochet art. Sat 04/02/2017 10:00-16:00, £36 – Stephanie Phillips

7 Tudor Row, Wade Street, Lichfield, Staffordshire WS13 6HH Tel: 01543 417700

www.knitiqueonline.com SC OT L AND Yarns for every budget, and patterns for every style at Scotland’s award-winning yarn store


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Crochet essentials

Over the next few pages, you’ll find simple step-by-step guides to many useful stitches and techniques that you’ll use every time you pick up a hook. HOLDING THE HOOK

Try these methods and see which works best.

PENCIL METHOD Hold the hook like a pencil, in your right hand (if you’re right-handed), about 3-5cm from the hooked end. If your hook has a flat area, you’ll find it comfortable to hold it here.

KNIFE METHOD Hold the hook between your thumb and forefinger, about 3-5cm from the hooked end, resting the end of the hook against your palm. This will give you lots of control.

HOLDING THE YARN

Even tension results in even stitches.

METHOD ONE Pass the ball end of the yarn between the little finger and third fingers of your left hand (if you are right-handed), then behind the third and middle fingers, over your index finger.

METHOD TWO Loop the ball end of the yarn loosely around the little finger of your left hand, then take it over the third finger, behind the middle finger and over your index finger.

3 Catch the ball end of the yarn with the hook and pull it back through the centre of the loop, taking the yarn through with it.

4 Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot, then pull just the ball end to tighten the loop so it’s close to the hook, but not touching it.

MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook.

1 Hold the tail of the ball of yarn in your left hand and drape the yarn clockwise over the top of it to form a circular loop.

2 Hold the loop between left thumb and forefinger, then insert the crochet hook through the centre of the loop from front to back.

CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain.

How to count chains

9

1 Hold the hook in your right hand, and both the yarn end and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anticlockwise.

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2 Pull the hook towards the slipknot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pulling it through the slipknot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a chain length.

3 This is what your row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your left hand near the hook, to keep the tension. Keep going until you have the number of chains that’s stated in your pattern.

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Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Never count your first slipknot or the loop on the hook (called the working loop). So that you can be accurate, make sure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.

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1


SLIP STITCH (ss)

This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds.

1 The slip stitch is used to join a length of chain into the round. Insert the hook from front to back into the first chain you worked. Wrap yarn round the hook (yrh) in an anticlockwise direction.

2 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch (as shown) and then the loop already on the hook to make a slip stitch. You can also work this stitch into each stitch along a row to form a neat edging.

WORKING IN ROWS

Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric.

1 The first row is made by working across the foundation chain from right to left. At the end of the chain or row, turn the work so that the yarn is behind the hook.

2 For the next row, first make the turning chain for the stitch you’re about to work (see opposite). Now work the next stitch into the top of the stitches on your first row, missing the first stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet

One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric.

1 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row.

2 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving you two loops on your crochet hook.

4 Yarn round hook again, then pull the yarn through both loops. There’s your double crochet made and you’ll have one loop left on the hook, ready to do the next stitch.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet

A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet.

1 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).

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2 Insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yarn around the hook again (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (3 loops on hook).

4 Yarn round hook again, pull the yarn through all 3 loops. You’ve made a half treble crochet. Continue working htr into next and following sts to the end of the row.


YOUR GUIDE TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet

One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch.

1 To work a treble crochet, start by winding yrh and then insert the hook under the top two loops of the stitch on the previous row.

2 Wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh) and pull the yarn through the stitch only.

DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr) US term: treble crochet This is a stitch regularly used as an elongated version of the treble (described above). It’s worked in a very similar way to the treble, as follows: 1 Make a foundation chain. Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the hook under the top loop of the next ch. 2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the ch loop only (4 loops on hook). 3 Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).

Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook). 4 Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. Repeat from * to make more dtr sts. 5 To make the next row of dtr, turn work and ch4. This turning chain counts as the first dtr in a new row. Skip first st at the base of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the top two loops of the 2nd stitch in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

TURNING CHAIN (t-ch)

For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain. In crochet, you need to add turning chains (t-chs) to the beginning of rows. The reason for this is to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you’re crocheting. Each basic stitch has its own number of chains. The

table below tells you how many t-ch sts form the first stitch. *For dc, usually the turning chain does not count as a stitch, and the first stitch of the row is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.

STITCH

Add to foundation chain before starting row

Skip at start of foundation row (counts as first st)

For turning chain (counts as first st)

Double crochet

1 ch

1 ch*

1 ch*

Half treble

1 ch

2 ch

2 ch

Treble

2 ch

3 ch

3 ch

Double treble

3 ch

4 ch

4 ch

Triple treble

4 ch

5 ch

5 ch

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3 You will now have 3 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through just the first 2 loops on the hook.

4 You will now have 2 loops on the hook. Yrh again and draw the yarn through the remaining loops on the hook. Your treble crochet is complete.

TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr) US term: double treble crochet This is one of the longest standard crochet stitches and is mainly used in fancy stitch patterns. It’s taller than a double treble crochet stitch (described left) and is worked in a very similar way, as follows: 1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook under top loop of next ch. 2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop only (5 loops on hook). 3 † Yrh, draw loop through 2

loops only. Repeat from † 3 times more and your triple treble will be finished. Repeat from * to make more ttr sts. 4 To make the next row, turn work and ch5. This turning chain counts as the first triple treble in a new row. Skip first st at base of the t-ch. Work 1 triple treble, inserting hook under the top 2 loops of the 2nd st in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

How to count stitches Check your work is correct. Being able to count your stitches is very important and helps you to ensure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row. To count short stitches such as double crochet, look at the plaited tops (see above right). For taller stitches, count the upright ‘stems’ – each ‘stem’ is counted as a stitch (see right).

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HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR

Create stripes and other colour effects.

1 Before you work the final yrh (yarn round hook) on the last stitch of a row in the old colour, drop the old yarn and then pick up the new one with your hook.

2 Pull through a loop of the new yarn to finish the old stitch. The working loop will be in the new colour. Continue, keeping the old yarn at the wrong side.

INCREASING AND DECREASING

Shaping stitches are vital for making garments.

INCREASE To increase one stitch is very simple – work one stitch into the next stitch on the row below. When you’ve finished, work another stitch into the same stitch.

DECREASE For a quick decrease, just skip one stitch. For a neater look, work the first part of one stitch and then begin the next stitch. Finish both together.

SEWING SEAMS

You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods.

1 Sewing with a tapestry needle is the regular and neat way to join seams. Place two pieces of crochet right sides together and oversew them as shown above, using a tapestry or yarn needle.

2 To slip stitch a seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together. *Insert hook into both edge stitches, yrh and pull through to complete 1 slip stitch; rep from * working into the next edge stitches, keeping work fairly loose.

How to check your tension Make and measure a swatch to check your tension. Most crochet patterns state the tension required, in rows and stitches of a specific type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square and check that your tension matches. Place a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins, 10cm apart. Then place the ruler along a column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm apart. Count the stitches and rows between the pins – if you have less than the pattern, your tension is too loose so you need to use a smaller hook, but if you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s usually better to match the stitches than rows, because you can always work more or fewer rows.

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3 For a dc seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam. Work as for slip stitch seam, using double crochet instead of slip stitch.

4 A useful variation on the dc seam, the dc and chain seam is used when less bulk and/or greater flexibility is needed. Work 1 double crochet and 1 chain alternately.


YOUR GUIDE FOUNDATION RING

Create a foundation ring for working in the round.

1 Make a chain the length stated in the pattern instructions. Next, insert the crochet hook into the first chain. Close the ring with a slip stitch, working yrh…

2 …and pull yarn through 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start crocheting in the round, following the instructions given right.

WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING

To make circles, tubes and other shapes.

1 Make a foundation ring and work the t-ch (3ch for treble sts). Work a treble st as usual, but insert hook into centre of ring. For treble sts, yrh, insert hook into ring.

2 Finish the treble as usual (yrh, pull yarn through ring, yrh, pull yarn through first 2 loops, yrh, pull yarn through 2 loops). Work more sts into the ring as needed.

3 Make a t-ch for the sts you want to work (above, we made 1 t-ch for dc). Work your sts into the Magic Loop, over both the loop and the tail end (so two yarn strands).

4 Once you’ve worked the first round of stitches, simply pull the tail end of yarn to draw up the ring. Work a slip stitch to join the last and first sts to finish the first round (as instructed in the guide below).

MAGIC LOOP

An alternative foundation ring for working in the round. Working yarn

Tail end

1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t make a slipknot. Instead, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long. Make sure the tail end is under the working yarn.

2 Now insert your hook into the loop, from front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through the loop.

JOINING ROUNDS

Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch.

Rounds or spirals

1 To close a round of stitches, work a slip stitch into the top of the turning chain. To do this, insert the hook into the top stitch of the turning chain.

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2 Then place the yarn round the hook. Pull the yarn through the turning chain stitch and through the original stitch on your hook.

3 You’ve slip stitched the round together! Before working another round, be sure to make the required turning chain. Always work rounds on the right side, unless you pattern instructs you otherwise.

Some patterns are worked in rounds that are joined together at the end of each round (see left). Other patterns are worked in a spiral so you don’t need to join the rounds at the end, just keep going, working into the next stitch on the previous row. Amigurumi toys are often worked in a spiral like this.

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©Stephanie Lau, www.allaboutami.com

Check which technique you need to use.


Abbreviations across approx beg bl BPtr

ch(s) ch-sp(s) chcl(s) 2-tr cl

cont dc dc2tog

dec dtr dtr2tog fdc ftr fl foll/folls FPtr

to end of the row approximate(ly) beginning insert hook under back loop only Back Post treble: yrh, starting from the back, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st in row below, complete as treble st chain/chain stitch(es) chain space(s) refers to ch made previously, eg. ch-3 clusters (yrh, insert hook in sp/ st, yrh & pull up loop, yrh & draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting hook in same sp/st, yrh & draw through all loops on hook continue double crochet (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw a loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook decrease double treble crochet work 2dtr together foundation dc foundation tr insert hook under front loop only following/follows Front Post treble: work in opposite way to BPtr

Crochet hook conversions htr htr2tog in next inc LH lp(s) meas patt(s) pm prev qtr rem rep RH rnd(s) RS sk sp(s) ss st(s) tbl t-ch(s) tog tr tr2tog

ttr WS yrh *

()

half treble work 2htr together sts to be worked into the same stitch increase left hand loop(s) measures pattern(s) place marker previous quadruple treble remain(s)/remaining repeat right hand round(s) right side skip space(s) slip stitch stitch(es) through back loop turning chain(s) together treble crochet (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, yrh and draw through all loops on hook triple treble crochet wrong side yarn round hook work instructions immediately foll *, then rep as many more times as directed work all instructions in the brackets as many times as directed

HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH

To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve finished crocheting, fasten the end off carefully. Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn about 15cm from the work. Pull it through the last loop on the hook and pull to close the loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the back of the work. Most crochet items don’t need a lot of blocking, but cotton lace work usually does. To do this, carefully pin out the item with rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally. 92 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

UK

METRIC

US

14

2mm

13

2.25mm

B/1

12

2.5mm

2.75mm

C/2

11

3mm

10

3.25mm

D/3

9

3.5mm

E/4

3.75mm

F/5

8

4mm

G/6

7

4.5mm

7

6

5mm

H/8

5

5.5mm

I/9

4

6mm

J/10

3

6.5mm

K/10½

2

7mm

0

8mm

L/11

00

9mm

M/13

000

10mm

N/15

Which hook do I use? Hook size

UK yarn weight

2.5-3.5mm hook

4ply yarn

3.5-4.5mm hook

double knitting yarn

5-6mm hook

aran yarn

7mm and bigger

chunky yarn

UK/US conversions UK

US

chain

ch

chain

ch

slip stitch

ss

slip stitch

ss

double crochet

dc

single crochet

sc

half treble

htr

half double

hdc

treble

tr

double

dc

double treble

dtr

treble

tr

triple treble

ttr

double treble

dtr


CHARTS

Charts & Diagrams

Here are the extra bits and pieces you'll need to make the raised diamonds reading accessories and the Hook to Hook cardigan this issue.

Raised diamonds stitch, page 63

Chart

Key

7 6 5

Row pattern repeat

8

Chain (ch) Double crochet (dc) Treble crochet (tr)

Front Post Double Treble crochet (FPdtr) Front Post Dtr2tog

4 3 2 1

Hook to Hook cardigan, page 57 Chart

Key 9 8 7 6 5 4 3

10

Yarn A Yarn C

5

Come to our blog at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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UR ROM YORITES F

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MANDALA

e a h r t it e W

romantic rounds fo r sprin Lucy Croftâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s h c t i t S g.

Psst

Win the to make ya  n th i ! Made in association with King Cole for stockists www.kingcole.com or call 01756 703670


MANDA A This is the second in our series of 12 fab mandalas in King Cole’s Giza cotton 4ply. It matches February in our calendar.

GO PRO 4PLY WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q King Cole Giza Cotton 4ply (100%

cotton, 50g/158m), 1 ball of each: Pink (2192) Coral (2196) Rosehip (2197) Bluebell (2198) Plum (2199) Argent (2249) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook For yarn stockists, contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com

MEASUREMENTS 17.5cm (6¾in) diameter

ABBREVIATIONS Fivetr Yrh 5 times, insert hook into st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, (yrh and draw through 2 sts) 6 times 4-ttr cluster *yrh 3 times, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, (yrh and draw through 2 loops) 3 times; rep from * another 3 times, inserting hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all loops on hook 5-ttr cluster As above, repeating from * another 4 times. 3-dtr cluster *yrh twice, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, (yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice; rep from * twice more, inserting hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 4 loops on hook Spike st Insert hook in st/sp indicated and draw yarn up level with the current row, complete as for dc stitch For a full list, see page 92

MANDALA Using Plum, make a magic loop. Rnd 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 8dc into the loop, ss to first dc to join. [8 sts] Rnd 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in st at base of ch-3, 2tr in next st, *3tr in next st, 2tr in next st; rep from * twice more, ss to top of beg ch-3. [20 sts] Fasten off Plum. Rnd 3 Join Pink to first st, ch1 (does not count as st), 3dc in same st, *spike st into centre of magic loop, skip next tr, dc in next tr, 2dc in next tr, spike st into centre of magic loop, skip next tr, 3dc in next tr; rep from * another 3 times, omitting last 3dc, ss to first dc. [32 sts] Rnd 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st and in each st around, ss to first dc. Fasten off Pink. Rnd 5 Join Rosehip to first st, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next st, 2tr in next st, *skip next st, 2tr in next st, tr in next st, 2tr in next st; rep from * another 6 times, skip last st, ss to top of beg ch-3. [40 sts] Rnd 6 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, *tr in next st, ch2, skip next st, tr in next st, 2tr in each of next 2 sts; rep from * another 7 times, omitting last 2 tr, ss to top of beg ch-3, do not fasten off. [48 tr and 8 ch-2 sps] Rnd 7 Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr, ch2, skip next ch-2 sp, *(tr in next tr, 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr) twice, ch2, skip next ch-2 sp; rep from * another 6 times, tr in next tr, 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr, ss to top of beg ch-3. [64 tr and 8 ch-2 sps] Fasten off Rosehip. Rnd 8 Working in front of Rnds 6 and 7, join Argent in first skipped tr of Rnd 5, ch4, 4-ttr cluster in same tr (counts as first 5-ttr cluster), ch8, *5-ttr cluster in next skipped tr of Rnd 5, ch8; rep from * another 6 times, ss to top of the first cluster. [8 5-ttr clusters, 8 ch-8 sps] Fasten off Argent. Rnd 9 Join Rosehip to 5th tr of any 8 tr

IT’S THE YEAR OF THE GIZA MANDALA All 12 mandalas in our 2017 calendar series are hooked in Giza, King Cole’s 100% cotton 4ply. The mercerised Egyptian cotton is fine, has a brilliant sheen and a luxurious feel. The cotton is grown in its namesake city, Giza. The purity of the soil there results in fantastic clarity and depth in each of the 20 colourways. For the chance to win six balls of Giza yarn to hook this design, head to www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/win-king-cole-giza-yarn

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group in Rnd 7, incorporating ch-8 sp of Rnd 8 into the sts; ch1, (does not count as st), dc in same st, *working all sts into Rnd 7, htr in next tr, tr in next tr, (tr, dtr) in next tr, 3dtr in ch-2 sp behind 5-ttr cluster, incorporating next ch-8 sp of Rnd 8 into the sts; (dtr, tr) in next tr, tr in next tr, htr in next tr, dc in each of next 2 tr; rep from * another 7 times, omitting last dc, ss to top of first dc. [104 sts] Fasten off Rosehip. Rnd 10 Join Pink to first htr, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *dc in each of next 3 sts, (dc, ch1) in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 5 sts, fivetr in skipped dc in Rnd 4 below, skip next 2 dc of Rnd 9, dc in next st; rep from * another 7 times, omitting last dc, ss to top of first dc. [88 dc, 8 fivetr and 16 ch-1 sps] Fasten off Pink. Rnd 11 Join Bluebell to dc after first ch-1 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), *ch7, dc in next fivetr, ch7, tr in dc after next ch-1 sp; rep from * another 7 times, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3.[16 ch-7 sps, 8 dc, 8 tr] Rnd 12 *Ch4, 3tr in 6th ch of next ch-7 sp, skip next (ch, dc, ch), 3tr in 2nd ch of next ch-7 sp, ch4, ss in next tr; rep from * another 7 times working last ss into ss at end of Rnd 11. [16 ch-4 sps, 48 tr and 8 ss] Fasten off Bluebell. Rnd 13 Join Coral to any ss, *(ch4, 2ttr, ch2, tr, ch2, 2ttr, ch4, ss) in same ss (to create heart motif), ch6, 3-dtr cluster in next skipped dc in Rnd 11, ch6, ss to next ss in Rnd 12; rep from * another 7 times working last ss into first ss. [8 heart motifs, 16 ch-6 sps, 8 3-dtr clusters and 8 ss] Fasten off Coral. Rnd 14 Join Plum to 2nd ch of first ch-4 sp of Rnd 12, working sts into Rnd 12 and incorporating ch-6 sp of Rnd 13 into sts, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *dc in 3rd and 4th ch of same ch-4 sp, dc in each of next 3 tr, dc in top of 3-dtr cluster of Rnd 13, incorporating next ch-6 sp of Rnd 13 into sts and working into Rnd 12; dc in each of next 3 tr, dc in each of first 3 ch of ch-4 sp, ch4, holding yarn behind Rnd 13, dc in 2nd ch of next ch-4 sp of Rnd 12, incorporating ch-6 sp of Rnd 13 into sts; rep from * another 7 times omitting last dc, ss to top of first dc. [104 dc, 8 ch-4 sps] Fasten off Plum. Rnd 15 Join Argent to 2nd dc, *ch2, tr in next dc, ch2, ss to next dc, (ch2, tr in next dc, ch2, tr in next dc, ch2, ss to next dc) twice, ch2, tr in next dc, ch2, ss to next dc, skip next dc, ch5, holding yarn behind Rnd 13, skip ch-4 sp and next dc, ss to next dc; rep from * 7 times. [80 ch-2 sps, 48 tr, 40 ss, 8 ch-5 sps] Fasten off Argent. Weave in ends.


Pretty Boho top

Planned colour pooling Jasmine stitch

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HOOKY TREASURE

Perpetual summer Maaike von Koert, the Dutch designer and blogger behind creJJtion, has a very special shawl in her wardrobe.

T

his design is called Zomersjaal, which translates from the original Dutch as ‘summer shawl’. It was one of the projects I included in my first crochet book Puur Haken, and is the first ever shawl that I designed and made. There are so many reasons why this is my favourite crochet treasure: because of the yarn it’s made from; because of the colour; because of how much I’ve worn it, and also because of when I made it. The shawl was crocheted with yarn from my stash, which always pleases me. It was yarn I got while living abroad in Canada, so there are lots of good memories attached to it. I lived in Canada for two years and left a little piece of my heart there. The yarn is Louet Canada’s GEMS, which is a 100% merino yarn in a worsted weight, dyed in a rich ochre colour. It took two skeins to make the shawl. The colour’s not one that’s usually in my comfort zone; but the shawl turned out to be the one I wear the most, and that’s partly due to its colour. Who would have thought? I wear lots of navy and black, so this shawl really completes every outfit I have. The timing of the shawl is important, too, as I made it while I was pregnant with my daughter Annabel,

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and for some reason all items that I made during the pregnancy are very special to me. It took me one weekend to crochet this shawl – it literally flew off my hook. During the weekend I was working on it, I didn’t cook and I hardly slept! I used a fan stitch base, which I edged nicely with some more decorative stitches and bobbles. As much as I love this shawl, I also find it fantastic that so many other people love it too. The most rewarding feedback I’ve had about the design is hundreds of people crocheting it over and over again, and showcasing them on their blogs and Instagram accounts. Everyone comments about how calming the rhythm of this pattern is, and I have to agree. If you like the look of this shawl, then you can find the pattern inside my Puur Haken book. It’s written in Dutch but it includes a stitch diagram, so if you’re happy with using these then you’ll be fine. This first shawl was so lovely to design that I’m currently working on a couple more and will be posting those patterns in my online shops soon! You can find Maaike’s beautiful blog at www. crejjtion.com and shop for her book and crochet patterns at www.creJJtion.etsy.com


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isSue fIfty-Three

2017’s going to be the year of the mandala. This issue, you’ll find the first mandala in our new series and all kinds of hooky treats. How about cosy textured stitches, beautiful blankets, floaty mohair accessories and a sparkling shawl? We’ve got your winter sorted.

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Granny treble ideas, an amigurumi alpaca, sparkly crochet and a scarf for him. Plus, try Bavarian crochet.

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Tropical accessories, beach essentials, vintage crochet tips and a super-cute jellyfish to hook.

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Nautical makes, picnic projects, a lace top, freeform crochet and an awesome amigurumi octopus.

Beautiful blanket wrap, a woolly mammoth, all about craftivism and spike stitch.

Fun glamping ideas, stylish summer tunics to make, and an iPad cosy for you. Plus, learn Irish crochet.

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Simply crochet issue 54 2017