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interweave press

from the publishers of Interweave Knits ®

simple • stylish • spirited

19

Summer 2016

SWEET SUMMER KNITS

Lace, eyelets & layers

EVEN KNITTERS GET THE BLUES Indigo-inspired projects Choose the right size every time

TROPICAL HEATWAVE Cool tees and accessories for any climate www.knitscene.com

PLUS

• Peek inside Kate Atherley’s Pattern Writing Guide • How to k2tog and ssk like a pro


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DESIGNER Lignin Cardigan

16

Heather Zoppetti

Capillary Scarf

Cordia Tank 19

Heather Zoppetti

Rosulate Tank Heather Zoppetti

TROPICAL HEATWAVE Commelina Scarf

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25

Kerri Blumer

26

Sarah Thieneman

Alpinia Tank

29

Corrina Ferguson

Heliconia Wrap

30

Noriko Ho

Ipomoea Scarf

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Amy Palmer

Arundina Tee

35

Jesie Ostermiller

42

24

INDIGO BLUES Mere Skirt

42

Jessica Anderson

Rogue Wave Socks

45

Kate Atherley

Buoyant Sweater

47

Amy Gunderson

Barachois Tunic

48

Wendy Bernard

Soliton Vest

49

Shaina Bilow

Seiche Tank

50

Yoko Johnston

Anil Cardigan

16 Designer Profile: Heather Zoppetti 51

Amy Christoffers

Tinctoria Tee

Corrina Ferguson

36 Slanting Stitches 52

Sachiko Burgin

Billabong Tee

FEATURES

Sarah Solomon

56 Tangled up in Blue 53

Leslie Ordal

54

DEPARTMENTS

Emma Welford

Atoll Cowl Jenn Emerson Cover: Alpinia Tank, page 29

contents knitscene Summer 2016 www.knitscene.com

04 Editor’s Note 08 Materials Pattern Play: Size Matters Finishing School: Mattress Stitch Book Talk: Beginner’s Guide to Writing Knitting Patterns

96 Blogspotting: Julia of Hand Knitted Things


beginner: basi c sti tches easy: movi ng past scarves intermediate: pretty confi dent advanced: chal l enge mysel f

interweave press

level of difficulty

editorial content strategist Lisa Shroyer editor Amy Palmer managing editor Rachel Koon assistant editor Louisa Demmitt senior project editor Joni Coniglio assistant project editor Laura Hulslander

knitting gauge

technical editors Tracey Davidson, Karen Frisa, Lori Gayle, Julie Gaddy, Robin Melanson

To check gauge, cast on thirty to forty stitches using recommended needle size. Work in pattern stitch until piece measures at least 4" from cast-on edge. Remove swatch from needles or bind off loosely and lay swatch on flat surface. Place a ruler over swatch and count number of stitches across and number of rows down (including fractions of stitches and rows) in 4". Repeat two or three times on different areas of swatch to confirm measurements. If you have more stitches and rows than called for in instructions, use larger needles; if you have fewer, use smaller needles. Repeat until gauge is correct.

proofreader Nancy Arndt

copy editor Amanda Borowski

creative services designer Bekah Thrasher art director Debbie Long photography projects Nathan Rega, Harper Point Photography departments Louisa Demmitt photostyling Katie Himmelberg hair & makeup Janie Rocek, Kira Friedman illustrations Alex Capshaw-Taylor, Gayle Ford, Kathie Kelleher, Kit Kinseth

reading charts

advertising advertising manager Diane Kocal

Unless otherwise indicated, read charts from the bottom up. On right-side rows, read charts from right to left. On wrong-side rows, read charts from left to right. When knitting in the round, read charts from right to left for all rounds.

diane.kocal@fwcommunity.com advertising manager Sally Finnegan sally.fi nnegan@fwcommunity.com ad traffi cker Mary Lutz classifi ed advertising Stephanie Greiss

learn it • abbreviations beg BO CO dec g inc k k1f&b kwise m mm p p1f&b pm psso p2sso pwise rem rep rev St st rnd(s) RS sl st(s) St st tbl tog WS * () []

beginning; begin; begins bind off cast on decrease(s); decreasing gram(s) increase(s); increasing knit knit into front and back knitwise marker(s) millimeter(s) purl purl into front and back place marker pass slipped stitch over pass two slipped stitches over purlwise remain(s); remaining repeat(s); repeating reverse stockinette stitch round(s) right side slip stitch(es) stockinette stitch through back loop together wrong side repeat starting point (i.e., repeat from *) alternate measurements and/or instructions instructions that are to be worked as a group a specified number of times

Need More Help? Visit www.knittingdaily.com/glossary for a complete glossary of stitches.

marketing manager, eCommerce Melissa Gugelman

F+W Media Inc. CEO Thomas F. X. Beusse CFO/COO James L. Ogle President Sara Domville Senior Vice President, Operations Phil Graham Vice President, Communications Stacie Berger ®

Knitscene (ISSN 2328-286X print and 2328-2940 online) is published quarterly by F+W Media, Inc., 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525. (800) 272-2193. Application to Mail at Periodicals Postage Prices is Pending at Fort Collins, CO, and additional mailing offices. All contents of this issue of Knitscene are © 2016 by F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. Subscription rate is $32/one year in the U.S., $36/ one year in Canada, and $39/one year in international countries (surface delivery). U.S. funds only. Subscription services: knitscene@emailcustomerservice.com, (800) 839-4544 U.S. and Canada, (386) 246-0105 international, P.O. Box 433289, Palm Coast, FL 32143. Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at www.knittingdaily.com/errata. Knitscene does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Knitscene. Nor does Knitscene evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Knitscene. Postmaster: Please send address changes to: Knitscene, P.O. Box 433289, Palm Coast, FL 32143.

Visit the Knitscene website at www.knitscene.com. call Diane Kocal at (317) 482-0120 or email diane.kocal@fwcommunity.com; call Sally Finnegan at (513) 403-9565 or email sally.finnegan@fwcommunity.com; or visit www.interweave.com. For retail sales of magazines and Interweave books, call (800) 289-0963 or email sales@fwcommunity.com. For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, email knitscene@interweave.com, or write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576. For advertising information,

4868 Innovation Dr. Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576 (866) 949-1646

Enjoy our other fine fiber magazines Interweave Knits, Interweave Crochet, knit.wear, PieceWork, Handwoven, Spin.Off, Knitting Traditions, Love of Knitting, Love of Crochet

Visit us on the Web

www.knittingdaily.com • www.fwcommunity.com


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Our summer issue always comes out at a kind of strange time of year. For instance, the fi les that make up the issue you’re holding in your hands were fi nalized and sent to a printer in early March—a decidedly un-summery time of year. As I’m writing this, I’m actually kind of stuck in my house because northern Colorado received about two feet of snow in the last 24 hours. Looking at photos of projects designed for warmer weather is causing an incredible disconnect for me. That said, I absolutely cannot wait for those summer days to show up. I don’t mind the snow; I’m just absolutely enamored with the projects in this issue. Our Tropical Heatwave story (pages 24–35) makes me long for sunny beaches and visits to rainforests—in fact, I’ve already cast on for Noriko Ho’s Heliconia Wrap because I have to have my own! Our Indigo Blues projects (pages 42–55) are inspired by ocean blues, pool blues, and everything in between. Knit mostly in plant-based fi ber yarns, these patterns will keep you feeling and looking cool all summer long. Be sure to read Leslie Ordal’s article, starting on page 56, for an overview of the process of indigo dyeing and its history with fabric. Featured designer Heather Zoppetti’s design collection (pages 16–21) includes three utterly feminine, utterly unique pieces that you’ll want to cast on immediately. Sarah Solomon, in the fi rst part of a series on decreases and increases, walks you through the most basic k2tog, ssk, and centered double-decreases—after reading her tutorial on pages 36–40, you’ll be a decreasing pro. Last, but most defi nitely not least, Kate Atherley’s Pattern Play (starting on page 8) for this issue is a supersized piece on how to choose the right size to knit—a We are incredibly grateful to the must-read for any garment knitter. folks at the Fort Collins Nursery However the weather is behaving in for allowing us the use of their your part of the world, I hope you’ll fi nd greenhouses and plants for a inspiration and delight in these pages of location! Visit them online at Knitscene. I know I certainly do. www.fortcollinsnursery.com.

with the Connect nd our e team a K nitscen at ting titles other knit .com. tingdaily www.knit

Happy knitting,

share your projects

#knitscene follow us @interweavecraft

First sweater ever, complete! #ravelry #knitscene @interweavecraft @sachikobee #bayandgabletunic #knitting#knitstagram #instagrammodel

laura_lish Finally taking a picture of my Bay and Gable Tunic in @yarnonthehouse Father. I love it, it's so cozy!! #knitting #knittersofinstagram #knitscene

madgiddy 4

www.knitscene.com


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LYN HARRIS DESIGNS This beautiful vintage necklace is easy to knit, uses garter stitch only and works up in a few hours. Give this unique piece as a gift or treat yourself! Various colors are available. Pattern can be expanded to create a unique scarf. Price: $25 + $5 shipping. Visit www.lynharrisdesigns.com or call 716.487.2070


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Summer16 Knitscene

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PATTERN PL AY

Size Matters How to choose the right size every time Kate Atherley

Photo by Garrett Evans

We’ve all been there—that point at which we fall in love with a knitted garment pattern but agonize over what size to knit. Pattern guru Kate Atherley is here to share the secrets to choosing which size to knit for any garment.

There are a lot of factors that go into choosing the right size of a pattern to knit, but there are two key things to look for: information about the garment itself and information about the person who is to wear the garment. Information about the garment itself can be found in the printed pattern. You might see the headings Size (or To Fit) and Finished Measurements (or Actual). What’s the difference? Size describes the person who is to wear the garment. Sometimes size is presented as letters—S, M, L, XL. For children’s garments, it’s often presented as an age (e.g., newborn, 3 months, 1 year, 2 years). Sometimes it’s given as a measurement (e.g., 36", 38", 40" chest). Think of this as what you read on the label in the clothing store. Size says very little about the garment. Finished Measurements describes the garment and is the key listing to help you determine a size. If a pattern lists that the sweater has an actual finished bust circumference of 40", if you measure it, it will be 40" around at bust height—that is, the front and back will each be 20" across. In Knitscene, the measurements at the top of the materials list under “Sizes” are the actual measurements of the garment when knitted to match the gauge listed. (See my Pattern Play column from Knitscene Winter 2015 on achieving gauge.) Different types and styles of garments are worn differently: a bulky sweater-coat is worn loose, while the shell of a twin-set is worn more fitted. The finished measurements of the sweater-coat would be much larger than the finished measurements of the shell, but both could be worn by the same person. To help choose the right size, you also want to consider the person who will be wearing the garment. You’ve probably heard about “ease.” Ease is about how you wear a garment, the difference between your measurements and the measurements of the garment. The measurements of my winter coat are much bigger than my body measurements; it has a lot of ease, so I can fit a sweater under it. The measurements of my favorite summer T-shirt

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ALPINIA TANK C or r in a F e r g u s o n page 2 9

A n c i e n t A r t s He a v y L a c e

Sizes Size S 32½ (36, 40, 44, 47½, 51½)" bust circumference; shown in size 32½", modeled with ½" of negative ease Yarn Ancient A Arts H Heavy Lace (65% silk, 35% linen; 765 yd [700 m]/113 g): • #RG01 raspberry gelato, 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Gauge 18 sts and 27 rows = 4" in charted patt; 18 sts and 30 rows = 4" in garter st

Tools • Size 4 (3.5 mm) needles • Removable markers (m) • Tapestry needle

Finished Measure ments describes the ga rment and is the key listing to help you determine a size .


are much closer to my own actual measurements—I wear it quite closely fitted, with only a little ease. The finished measurements of my yoga top are the same as my measurements—I wear it with zero ease. The finished measurements of the leggings I wear at yoga class are smaller than my measurements, as they stretch to fit—I wear them with negative ease. Go through your own wardrobe and measure items of clothing: different types of garments will have wildly different measurements, depending on how you wear them. Note: The finished measurements of the garment that are listed in a pattern are exactly that—the measurements of the garment. There is no ease built into garment measurements, since there is no ease without a person in the garment. The finished measurements of a garment you make will rarely match your own measurements. Choose the finished measurements of the garment based on your measurements plus the ease you want. If you want to wear a garment loosely, you might choose the size for which the finished measurements are your own plus 3–4" of ease. That is, if your bust measurement (more on this below) is 40", you will want your sweater to be 43" or 44" around. If you’re making a stretch-to-fit piece, such as a sock, the finished measurements might be smaller than your actual measurements. Some patterns don’t list a size specifically. Always look for the measurements of the garment, such as numbers on a schematic, and guidance on how to choose which size to make. There may be a statement (e.g., “choose a size about 2" larger than your actual measurement”). Look at the pictures: How is the model wearing the garment? Is it very tight? Is it slim-fitting? Is it roomy? Consider the garment type and style and how you would wear it. Find something similar in your wardrobe and measure that! I love a pattern that offers a schematic, as it’s a way to virtually try on a garment. Before I decide on the size I’m going to make, I hold a tape measure around myself to get a sense of how big a size is relative to my body. If it’s a straight sweater with no shaping measuring 42" around, I will see what a 42" circumference looks like around my body at various points: my hips, my waist, the fullest part of my bust, my upper bust. I’ll also look at the sleeve lengths, the neck depth, and other key measurements to get a sense of how the garment will fit me. After that, I’ll choose the size that most closely aligns with the measurements I want, and then I can get started knitting the perfect size for me! A few minutes with a tape measure can guide you to better size choices and radically improve the fit of your garments. Measure yourself, measure your wardrobe, and then measure out the pattern you’re looking at. If you’re going to spend hours making a garment, it’s worth those few minutes to get the perfect fit!

e measurements Always look for th h as numbers on a c su t, n e rm a g e th of idance on how u g d n a , c ti a m e h sc ze to make. to choose which si

The Alpinia Tank has six sizes—use these tips to determine which size is right for you. Turn the page for measuring instructions and more info! Summer16 Knitscene

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HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF Grab a friend for a measuring party. Wear a tight-fitting tank or a swimsuit and take the key measurements. The handy chart and illustrations on this page come from Alex Capshaw-Taylor’s new book, Dressed in Knits (Interweave/F+W Media, 2015). The most important measurement is bust, but probably not as you expect: for your bust, take your upper torso measurement, just under the arms. The size of your full bust doesn’t reflect the size of your frame. A D-cup slim but curvy woman and a B-cup, broad-shouldered competitive swimmer might both measure 40" around the full bust, but they couldn’t possibly wear the same size shirt. The high bust measurement gives a more accurate sense of the size of your frame. The key to flattery is a proper fit in the shoulders and frame.

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High Bust: Measure just under the arms. Waist: Measure around the narrowest part of your waist. High Hip: Measure around your hips at the top of your hip bones. Hip: Measure around the widest part of your hips, between your high hip and crotch. Upper Arm: Measure around the widest part of your upper arm. Forearm: Measure around your forearm, where a three-quarter-length sleeve would hit. Cross Back Width: Hold a knitting needle in each armpit and measure the horizontal distance between the two needles. Back-to-Waist Length: Measure vertically from the top of your vertebrae to the narrowest part of your waist. Waist-to-Hip Length: Measure vertically from the narrowest part of your waist to where you would like your garment to hit.

HIGH BUST CIRCUMFERENCE WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE HIGH HIP CIRCUMFERENCE HIP CIRCUMFERENCE UPPER ARM CIRCUMFERENCE FOREARM CIRCUMFERENCE CROSS BACK WIDTH BACK-TO-WAIST LENGTH WAIST-TO-HIP LENGTH SHORT-SLEEVE LENGTH THREE-QUARTER-SLEEVE LEN

GTH

FULL-SLEEVE LENGTH

Short-Sleeve Length: Measure vertically from your armpit to midway down your upper arm. Three-Quarter-Sleeve Length: Measure vertically from your armpit to midway down your forearm. Full-Sleeve Length: Measure vertically from your armpit to your wrist.

Fill in your actual measurements in the table at right for future reference. s 10

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Get your own copy of Dressed in Knits at

www.bit.ly/Dressed-In-Knits


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Summer16 Knitscene

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BOOK TALK

The Beginner’s Guide to

Writing Knitting Patterns Reviewed by Louisa Demmitt Knitting up a pattern that has come from your own creative mind is an awesome feeling. You make decisions on the fly, tweaking something here, adding an element there, the project is beautiful and original, and you want to share your creation with the knitting world! But will your notes and schematics, your overall pattern, make sense to someone who isn’t you? If you want to make sure that your pattern is understandable and accessible, The Beginner’s Guide to Writing Knitting Patterns by Kate Atherley is the handbook you need. Kate is a designer, teacher, and tech editor, and she has an incredible wealth of knowledge when it comes to all things knitting. I especially like that she asks you a lot of questions in this book, helping you really think things through. Should you be writing in rounds or rows? Is your list of notions comprehensive? Many of the questions might seem small, but they matter, and they make a huge difference when you’re trying to knit a pattern. As Kate says, “It’s simple: Good pattern writing matters because we want knitters to keep knitting.” It’s so frustrating

to see photos of something you want to make, only to fi nd that the pattern is convoluted and confusing and not worth the time to decipher. With the information in this book, you’ll ensure that your patterns make sense and become projects that people knit time and time again and recommend to others as well! The Beginner’s Guide to Writing Knitting Patterns: Learn to Write Patterns Others Can Knit By Kate Atherley Interweave/F+W

www.bit.ly/ Pattern-Writing

get this

BOOK


FINISHING SCHOOL

FIGURE

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FIGURE

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FIGURE

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FIGURE

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Mattress Stitch Sachiko Burgin

Seaming up those flat knitted pieces is a lot easier than you might expect. Mattress stitch is best for sewing vertical seams of stockinette stitch, such as the sides of a sweater or edges of a sleeve. Appearing virtually seamless from the right side, mattress stitch gives your knitting the most professional appearance. It is best to use the same yarn that was used in the project; however, if your yarn easily breaks or is bulky or uneven, you can opt for a stronger, thinner yarn in a close color. For demonstration purposes, these photos use two different colors. First, block all your pieces to straighten the edges and even out the tension, so the seams may be worked easily and evenly. Lay your pieces on a flat surface with the right sides facing you and the two edges about to be joined side by side. If your cast-on tail is long enough, thread the tail on a tapestry needle. If the tail is too short, cut a new length of yarn. Working one full stitch in from the edge, insert the needle from the back and out to the front above the two bars of your caston edge (Figure 1). Pull the yarn through and repeat this step on the other corner (Figure 2). Pull the yarn tight to close the gap (Figure 3). Returning to the piece with which you started, gently pull the two edge stitches away from each other to see the horizontal bars running up between them (Figure 4). Insert the tapestry needle under the next bar and pull yarn through to the front, leaving a small amount of slack in the yarn between the two pieces (Figure 5). Repeat this step on the corresponding horizontal bar on the opposing side (Figure 6). Continue in this manner for about an inch, then fi rmly pull the tail upward to bring the side edges snugly together (Figure 7). Avoid pulling too tightly, as you want to maintain the elasticity of the knit fabric and not create any puckers. Working in a zigzag fashion, continue until your seam is complete. Weave in all your ends on the wrong side.

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FIGURE

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FIGURE

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FIGURE

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For fi ner knits, you can work under two bars at a time for similar results, but your preference for this will be established with practice and experience. s Sachiko Burgin is a knitwear instructor and designer in Toronto, Canada.

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In Full Bloom Heather Zoppetti’s Design Collection Corrina Ferguson

Lignin Cardigan An asymmetrical collar accents the sweet petite dots on this cardigan, worked from the bottom up. The wool and silk yarn provides excellent stitch definition while remaining soft next to the skin, perfect for pulling on in any weather. Yarn Sincere Sheep Luminous

Pattern page 60

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Photo by Heather Zoppetti

Heather Zoppetti is the fastest knitter I know, and I know a lot of knitters. She’s been designing for only six years, yet she has an impressive library of designs and two books under her belt. She’s prolific partially due to her speed, but mostly due to the fact that she has a head full of ideas that she needs to bring to fruition. She just doesn’t stop. When folks ask me about her design business or her quickly growing pattern-distribution and yarn company, I always say the same thing: She’s a force of nature. When Heather began knitting, she followed the trajectory that many of us designers do. She just couldn’t leave well enough alone. She had to fi x things, change things, and make things her own. That quickly led to designing her own patterns. Her fi rst design was actually for a Knitty competition, using her handspun yarn. But then she got serious. She did an entire blog series on her next design, the Nancy & Judy shawl. She blogged the process, from inspiration to publication, on her website (www .hzoppettidesigns.com/blog/designseries-nancyjudy). At this point,

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Heather was still an aspiring designer, but she didn’t mess around. She was quickly published in Interweave Knits, and her Dahlia Cardigan from Interweave Knits Fall 2011 continues to be a perennial favorite. In addition to her prolific design career, Heather runs a highly regarded small yarn company and pattern distribution business, Stitch Sprouts. She started this business in the midst of writing two books for Interweave, because the woman never slows down. She wanted a business that supported the industry, from designer to local yarn store. She started out distributing patterns and selling stitch markers, but quickly progressed to having her very own yarns milled. She currently has two yarn bases, Yellowstone and Crater Lake, which are already being featured in magazines and books. Twice a year, she sets up a booth at The National NeedleArts Association (TNNA) show, where she exhibits her yarns, her crazy popular class kits, and the patterns she distributes for “30 of the best designers in the industry.” At this point she has a waiting list of designers clamoring to be a part of her vision. Heather’s personal design process starts with the big picture. She begins with the item—a sweater, a hat, a shawl—and then drills down to the details. Once she knows what she’s doing construction-wise, she starts looking at stitch patterns. That’s the dangerous part, because the stitch pattern she is considering for a top-down cardigan might scream to be a lace shawl, and then comes the temptation to drop everything and cast on for a shawl that must be made immediately. Sometimes the hardest part of designing is sticking with the project at hand. (continued on page 21)

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Capillary Scarf An open lace pattern forms the veins of this simple scarf. A length of I-cord, knit in a contrast color and threaded through the lace, allows the wearer to cinch the scarf close to the neck, instantly transforming it into a cowl, or to tie it casually. Yarn The Fiber Seed Silky Seed Lace Pattern page 61

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Rosulate Tank A gentle ruffle frames the buttonband of this layering piece. A small zigzag pattern trails up the body of this vest from bottom to top. This yarn shines in both stitch definition and subtle drape for the ruffle. Yarn Baah Yarn Savannah

Pattern page 62

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This collection for Knitscene came together very organically. Heather started with the idea of petals—all softness and ruffles. She didn’t use any of her own yarns in the collection because she relishes the chance to play with other people’s beautiful yarns. The resulting three-piece collection is decidedly feminine with just a hint of modern edge. What’s coming up for Heather? Her biggest goal for 2016 is establishing a solid library of pattern support for her Yellowstone and Crater Lake yarns. Whether she designs and knits these things herself or acquires designs from her network of talented friends, there is no doubt the yarns will be well represented. And then Heather can jump to her next amazing thing. s Corrina Ferguson is a knitwear designer and author of Warm Days, Cool Knits (Interweave/F+W Media, 2015). Find her online at www.picnicknits.com.

get this

BOOK Get Heather’s newest book, Unexpected Cables, at

www.bit.ly/ Unexpected-Cables

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LET FEATURED DESIGNER

Heather Zoppetti

inspire your knitting with this design collection! Heather’s Start Knitting Lace DVD is great for beginners, or any knitter who enjoys having visual tutorials for stitches. Everyday Lace, Heather’s first book with Interweave, features 18 garments and accessories for daily wear. Finally, follow Heather as she walks you through her incredibly popular Dahlia Cardigan with the Dahlia Cardigan Knitalong Workshop DVD.

www.bit.ly/Heather-Zoppetti


Prue Bristol Ivy for Kelbourne Woolens in The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering

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TROPICAL HEATWAVE hot knits for cool looks

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Cordia Tank Kerri Blumer A simple tank, knit in the round to the underarms, becomes super chic with an easy cable panel. The shoulders of this sleeveless tee cut in just slightly to show yours off. A wool-silk blend yarn makes for a lighter layer with great stitch definition. Yarn Stitch Sprouts Yellowstone Pattern page 66

about this

YARN

Stitch Sprouts Yellowstone is a sportweight wool-silk blend with generous yardage—nearly 300 yards per skein! Currently, it’s available in nine fantastic colors.

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Commelina Scarf Sarah Thieneman Combine a solid and a variegated cotton yarn in a simple slip-stitch knitting pattern for a dynamic pop of color to accessorize any summer outfit. Yarn Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima and Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Paints

Pattern page 68

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Alpinia Tank Corrina Ferguson This open, lacy knitted tank is great for layering over camisoles and bathing suits alike. To provide stability to the silk and linen yarn, this tank is seamed after being knit from the top down. Yarn Ancient Arts Heavy Lace

Pattern page 69

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Heliconia Wrap Noriko Ho Two lace panels are strategically seamed to create a stunning oversized knitted cardigan. Worn loose or belted, this dramatic ruana is the perfect cover-up for a summer day. Yarn The Fibre Company Meadow, distributed by Kelbourne Woolens

Pattern page 72

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about this

YARN

The Fibre Company Meadow is a slightly tweedy blend of merino, baby llama, silk, and linen. This lightweight fingering yarn is perfect for shawls and scarves, but can also make for gloriously light sweaters. The biggest problem with this yarn? Choosing just one of the twenty beautiful colors.

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Ipomoea Scarf Amy Palmer This super-long scarf is light and airy, thanks to rows of elongated stitches set off by a section of dropped stitches. A blend of cotton and alpaca makes for an incredibly soft summer stole. Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Cerro

Pattern page 74

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Arundina Tee Jesie Ostermiller A top-down seamless tee pairs elongated stitches and a colorshifting yarn for a one-of-a-kind knitted pullover. Knit in the round from the top down, the dramatic gauge shifts are achieved by changing needle sizes. Yarn Plymouth Yarn Company Driftone Pattern page 76

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Slanting Stitches The ins and outs of decreasing Sarah Solomon

Lace often looks so complex that it can be daunting, but in the majority of cases, what looks like an intricate lace pattern is made up of relatively simple combinations of decreases and yarnovers. Because working decreases is fundamental to working lace patterns, this article will focus on how to work the decreases most commonly found in lace knitting and illustrate how they change the shape and appearance of knitted fabric. Although these techniques will help you in lace knitting, the properties of each decrease are best demonstrated on a background of stockinette stitch, as in the swatches on pages 37–38. Learning to “read” your knitted fabric and to identify individual stitches is an essential skill in knitting. Once you can recognize them in stockinette, it is easier to identify them within lace knitting, and knowing which way each decrease will slant will help you to read your knitting and to predict where a pattern should be going.

SINGLE DECREASES

We’ll begin with the decreases used most frequently: single decreases. Single decreases reduce two stitches to one and lean either to the right or to the left. Decreases can be worked on either the right side or wrong side of the fabric. The descriptions in this section refer to the directional slant of the stitch viewed from the right side of the fabric, regardless of which side they were worked on. In the stockinette-stitch swatches shown, “right side” refers to the knit side of the fabric and “wrong side” to the purl side. Due to the directional slant of the various decreases, they are often worked in mirrored pairs, either leaning toward one another or away from one another, to anoth keep balance within the fabric. Each single sing decrease is grouped with its most mos common partner. The instructions for working the decreases are based on knitting in de the th Western style, with the right leg le of the stitch sitting on the front of the needle. If you knit in the Eastern or Combination style, you E will w need to work your stitches differently to achieve the same result. For more information on

cases, f o y t i r o j ma …in the intricate n a e k i l s k what loo up of e d a m s i ern lace pat t ations n i b m o c simple relatively novers. r a y d n a ses of decrea 36

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how to manipulate stitches for Eastern or Combination knitting, see www .grumperina.com/table.pdf. K2tog: Knit two stitches together. Insert the right needle into the second stitch, then into the fi rst stitch on the left needle from left to right, wrap the yarn as if to knit and pull up a loop, dropping the two stitches off the left needle. K2tog leans to the right. The left-leaning decrease usually paired with k2tog is ssk. Ssk: Slip, slip, knit. Slip the next two stitches on the left needle knitwise, one at a time, to the right needle. Insert the left needle into the front of the two slipped stitches on the right needle from left to right. Wrapping the yarn around the right needle as if to knit, pull up a loop and drop the two stitches from the left needle. The directional slant of decreases has a powerful effect on knitted fabric, whether shaping a stockinette fabric or creating a lace pattern. Where you place your decreases within your fabric can alter the appearance dramatically, especially when stacking decreases at regular intervals, as you might do for a raglan armhole. Swatches 1 and 2 show decreases worked two stitches in from the fabric edge. In general, it is preferable to work decreases at least one stitch away from the edge of the piece; this results in a smoother edge and greater clarity for the directional slant of the decrease itself. Swatch 1 uses k2tog at the beginning of the row and ssk at the end of the row. Swatch 2 reverses this pattern, using ssk at the beginning of the row and k2tog at the end of the row. Observe how differently the fabric lies in each example. The wrong-side equivalents of these two decreases are p2tog and ssp. P2tog: Purl two stitches together. Insert the right needle into the fi rst and second stitches on the left needle from right to left, wrap the yarn as if to purl and pull up a loop, dropping the two stitches from the left needle. P2tog resembles k2tog when seen from the right side of the work. Ssp: Slip, slip, purl. Slip the next two stitches on the left needle knitwise, one at a time, to the right needle. Return these two stitches to the left needle in

SWATCH 1

SWATCH 2

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their current orientation. With the yarn held in front, insert the right needle from left to right through the back of the second, then the fi rst stitch. Wrapping the yarn as if to purl, pull up a loop and drop the two stitches from the left needle. Ssp resembles ssk when seen from the right side of the work. Swatch 3 shows pairs of decreases being worked on both right and wrong sides of the fabric. The right-side decreases were worked using ssk at the beginning of the row and k2tog at the end of the row. The wrong-side decreases were worked using p2tog at the beginning of the row and ssp at the end of the row, which stacked the wrong-side pair of decreases with their right-side equivalents, resulting in a smooth and continuous line of decreases. Now that you can clearly see how the single decreases are formed, let’s take a look at a few alternatives that can make working left-leaning decreases a bit easier. When you need to work ssk with some frequency, as is often the case in lace, it can be handy to have a simpler way of working this decrease, without as many distinct movements. In the alternative method below, this is done entirely on the left needle, without slipping any stitches. Ssk (all on the needles): Without slipping any stitches, insert the right needle knitwise into the fi rst stitch on the left needle, then maneuver the right needle to the front of the work and insert the needle knitwise into the second stitch. The right needle will now be through both stitches and pointing away from you on the wrong side of the work. Wrapping the yarn as if to knit, pull up a loop and drop the

SWATCH 3

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two stitches from the left needle. This will yield the same result as the method of working ssk explained above. Another left-leaning decrease common in lace patterns is skp (slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over). Ssk is more commonly used, as the resulting stitch is slightly more subtle and more closely mirrors k2tog. However, skp frequently appears in older patterns and it can also be used in place of ssk if you fi nd it easier to work or think it yields a pleasing result. Skp: Slip one stitch knitwise from left to right needle, knit the next stitch on the left needle, then pass the fi rst stitch on the right needle (the slipped stitch) over the knitted stitch and drop it off the needle.

DOUBLE DECREASES

Double decreases reduce three stitches to one and are a key element in some lace patterns, as they have a more pronounced result than a single decrease. Sk2p (slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over): Slip one stitch knitwise from left to right needle. Knit the next two

Learning to ‘read

’ your

knit ted fabric an d identify individual stitche s is an essential skill in knit ting.


Aileen in )LUHĂ \, plus seven more easy-to-wear designs in Highland Summer 1604. Pattern books and individual pdf patterns available at your LYS and Ravelry.

pattern #1507

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stitches on the left needle together (k2tog). Using the left needle tip, lift the slipped stitch over the k2tog and drop it off the needle.

SWATCH 4

S2kp2 (slip 2, knit 1, pass 2 slipped stitches over): Slip two stitches together,

inserting the right needle tip into the second stitch then the fi rst stitch on the left needle as if working a k2tog. Knit the next stitch on the left needle. Using the left needle tip, lift the two slipped stitches over the knitted stitch and drop them off the needle. The bottom section of Swatch 4 illustrates sk2p, which has a distinct left-leaning appearance. The top half illustrates s2kp2, which produces a distinct vertical line. Both have their uses in lace knitting, depending on the desired effect. s Sarah Solomon is a knitting instructor and designer in New York City.

k2tog ssp

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ssk


Mere Skirt Jessica Anderson A breezy linen A-line skirt with just a touch of lace at the hem is perfect for summer! Knit from the top down, this skirt features an elastic waistband to ensure it stays in place. Yarn Quince & Co. Sparrow

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Pattern page 78


indigo

BLUES

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Rogue Wave Socks Kate Atherley Cables wave in and out down the leg and top of the foot of these top-down socks. A blend of cotton, nylon, bamboo, and silk, this yarn provides great stitch definition and softness for anyone looking for a substitute for wool or wool-blend sock yarns. Yarn HiKoo CoBaSi, distributed by Skacel Pattern page 78

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Buoyant Sweater Amy Gunderson Double yarnover “bubbles� adorn this breezy sweater. Knit from the bottom up and seamed, this pullover gets an added lift from the tie-dyed cotton-wool yarn. Yarn Fibra Natura denims, distributed by Universal Yarn Pattern page 80

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Barachois Tunic Wendy Bernard Nothing beats linen for lightweight summer knitwear, and this sleeveless tunic perfectly showcases linen’s properties. Strategically placed dropped stitches are crisp and defined, and the stockinette-stitch fabric has figureflattering drape. Yarn Shibui Knits Linen

Pattern page 81

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Soliton Vest Shaina Bilow An open-front hexagon vest is fun to knit and great to wear over any summer outfit. Knit in the round from the center out, this sleeveless cardigan features a broken-rib texture pattern alternating with stockinette-stitch triangles. Yarn Brown Sheep Company Cotton Fleece

Pattern page 82

about this

YARN

Cotton fibers get a lift from just a touch of wool spun into Brown Sheep Company’s Cotton Fleece. Three tiny threads are plied together, then four of those are plied together again to add strength and structure to this versatile yarn.

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Seiche Tank Yoko Johnston A dramatic lace pattern adorns the neckline and front of this otherwise simple-to-knit A-line tank. Worked from the top down, this tank is knit both flat and in the round for the perfect fit. Yarn Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy, distributed by Knitting Fever

Pattern page 83 50

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Anil Cardigan Amy Christoffers This comfy open-front cardigan gets a little lift from a lace pattern at the shoulders. Knit the body in one piece to the underarms, work the shoulders of the fronts and back, and then pick up stitches to knit the sleeves for a mostly seamless experience. Yarn Berroco Indigo

Pattern page 86

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Tinctoria Tee Sachiko Burgin This sleeveless tee features a simple lace pattern along the sides and an elongated back hem. Side vents are achieved by knitting the front and back flat and then seaming. Yarn Mirasol Pima Kuri, distributed by Knitting Fever Pattern page 88

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Billabong Tee Emma Welford Short columns of dropped stitches add visual interest to the front and back neckline of this easy knitted tee. Knit flat and seamed, the body begins with a simple lace edging before working up to the neckline. Yarn Rowan Panama, distributed by Westminster Fibers Pattern page 92

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Atoll Cowl Jenn Emerson Worked in a delicious blend of yak and silk, this easy-to-knit cowl is worked from the top down with an elongated stitch pattern that makes for an airy summer accessory. Yarn Jade Sapphire Khata

Pattern page 93

KIT !

get this

www.bit.ly/ Atoll-Cowl-Kit

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about this

YARN

This two-ply, 50% silk, 50% yak blend of heavy laceweight yarn makes for beautiful lightweight projects. Jade Sapphire’s Khata is perfect for summer accessories but could also be used for garments, as the silk lends a gorgeous drape. With at least 700 yards in each skein and more than twenty-four colors to choose from, your options are endless!

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Tangled up in Blue An Introduction to Indigo Leslie Ordal

Blue is one of the rarest colors to occur in nature, and as such, any substance that can confer the color to textiles and other items has always been highly valued. Synthetic dyes, usually cheaper and easier to use than natural dyes, were first developed in the 1850s and were subsequently adopted as the dyestuff of choice by most textiles manufacturers. Yet one of the oldest natural dyes—indigo—has retained a certain magic and mystery that, along with its extraordinarily complex blue color, have kept its dyeing traditions alive. Indigo is derived from any number of plants, most of which grow in the tropics, but also in the more temperate climes of Europe and eastern Asia. Plants in the genus Indigofera produce the greatest amount of indigo, but it’s also found in substantial quantities in plants such as woad, which has been cultivated in Europe as a dyestuff since at least 700 BCE. Indeed, indigo shows a remarkably long and varied history of use throughout the world. Fragments of indigodyed linen were found on the urns containing the Dead Sea Scrolls. Intricately patterned indigo-dyed cloth from Japan has been traced back to at least the seventh century CE, with the dye and its traditions likely brought over from China even earlier. Woad mills dotted the landscape of thirteenth century Germany, providing indigo to textile producers in other parts of Europe. Plants of the Indigofera family flourished in the southeastern United States in the late eighteenth to early nineteenth centuries, a particularly dark chapter of the dye’s history wherein its demand and production supported the transatlantic slave trade. Indigo-dyed textiles have been recovered from archeological sites around the world, with cultures from Japan, Southeast Asia, West Africa, Latin America, and Europe each creating their own methods and rituals for the production and use of blue textiles. Many cultures use indigo to make ikat textiles, where the yarn itself is dyed in sections that will create a particular pattern when woven—these have been especially important in Japan and other parts of From top to bottom: Pots of indigo dye Working batik dye Indigo-dyed wool Indigo-dyed cotton fabric


Preparing fabric for batik dyeing with indigo

uing ...Indigo has an intrig unlike dye process that is almost any other. Asia. Japan has a strong tradition of indigo dyeing that has dwindled to about a half-dozen families, but the knowledge continues to be passed on and maintained. Several groups of ethnic minorities in China are renowned for their unique use of indigo, such as the Dong peoples’ preference for heavily saturated and stiff indigo-dyed clothing, which is so dark and shiny it takes on a metallic, almost coppery appearance. This coppery look is also prized by the Touareg people of the Sahara, who use mallets to pound indigo pigment into already-dyed cloth. Indigo also retains a following in Mexico, especially in Chiapas and Oaxaca. Even with the arrival of both synthetically produced indigo and other synthetic blue dyes, numerous small communities such as these keep the practice of indigo production alive through their own local

all images credited to iStock

and specialized methods of dyeing and textile creation. All of these methods, however, must account for indigo’s unique properties as a dye. Unlike many natural dyestuffs, indigo does not require the addition of a mordant—another substance, usually a metal salt—to fi x the color to the fi ber. The brilliant blue dye extracted from plants also will not directly color any material. Instead, indigo has an intriguing dye process that is unlike almost any other. Indigotin is the proper name of the blue pigment in indigo-bearing plants, but it will not act as a dye unless fi rst dissolved in an alkaline (basic) solution. This turns the pigment into leuco-indigo (also known as “indigo white”), which is yellowish-green instead of blue. The dye will fi x to the fi ber in the indigo-white solution, and then exposure to

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Image credit: iStock

A step-by-step collage of indigo dyeing, from plants to finished fabric

air will convert the dye back into the recognizable blue of indigotin. Indigo dyers have come up with a number of original ways to facilitate this process, which usually takes place in a large vat that will be used repeatedly to dye cloth and fiber. Even though indigotin is the pigment present in all indigo-bearing plants, the exact color of the dye derived from different plants may vary. This is likely due to the presence of other compounds present in the plants (such as indirubin, also called “indigo red,� or flavonoids that add a yellow tinge), which can affect the color. Synthetically produced indigo dye does not have such a great degree of variation, as it is almost entirely pure indigotin. Whatever the source, and whatever the tradition, it is hard to resist the allure of the rich and satisfying blue of indigo. Whether it’s the ikat textiles of Asia, the copper-like brilliance of saturated Toaureg cloth, or even your favorite blue jeans, indigo continues to entrance and inspire. The universality of our love for the color blue will likely keep natural indigo dyeing alive for generations to come. s Leslie Ordal writes and works in healthcare research in Toronto, Canada. She plans to resume blogging about her fiber adventures soon at www.leslieordal.com.

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Further Reading Indigo by Jenny Balfour-Paul (Archetype Books, 2007) Indigo: The Color that Changed the World by Catherine Legrand (Thames & Hudson, 2013) A Handbook of Indigo Dyeing by Vivien Prideaux (Search Press, 2012)

tr y your

HAND

!

at easy indigo dyeing with the Itajimi Shibori Fabric Dyeing Kit! www.bit.ly/ Itajimi-Shibori


There’s always more online

BOOKS MAGAZINES DVDs AND MORE Yarns spun with Care in Harrisville, NH nää‡ÎÎn‡™{£xÊUʅ>ÀÀˆÃۈi°Vœ“ -ˆŽÊ&Ê7œœÊ*nÎx YARN KIT

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resource guide

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Designer

RS row. Next row (WS) P48 (52, 56, 64, 68, 76,

st dec’d. Rep Dec row every 4th (2nd, 2nd, 2nd,

84), place marker (pm), k1, pm, p105 (109, 121,

2nd, 2nd, 2nd) row 9 (4, 3, 8, 3, 8, 17) more

133, 149, 161, 173), pm, k1, pm, purl to end.

times, then every 4th row 0 (9, 10, 8, 9, 7, 2)

Next row (RS) Beg and ending as indicated for

times—30 (30, 30, 31, 31, 32, 32) sts rem. Work

right front, work Dot chart to m, sl m, p1, sl m,

even until armhole measures 6½ (7¼, 7¾, 8½,

beg and ending as indicated for back, work

8¾, 9¼, 9½)", ending with a RS row. Shape

Dot chart to m, sl m, p1, sl m, beg and ending

shoulder using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (WS) Work in patt to last 6 sts, wrap

as indicated for left front, work Dot chart to end. Work 1 more row in patt, working k1 between m. Shape waist: Dec row (RS) *Work in patt to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, p1, sl m,

next st, turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Work in patt to end. Short-row 3 Work in patt to 6 sts before wrapped

end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 22nd

st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Work in patt to end.

(24th, 24th, 24th, 24th, 24th, 26th) row 2 more

Rep last 2 short-rows 2 more times. Next row

times—191 (203, 223, 251, 275, 303, 331) sts

(WS) Work in patt to end, working wraps tog

rem. Work even until piece measures 8¾ (9¼,

with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder.

ssk; rep from * once more, work in patt to

9¼, 9¼, 9¼, 9¼, 9¾)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) *Work in patt to m, LLI,

Back

LIGNIN CARDIGA N

sl m, p1, sl m, RLI; rep from * once more, work

Return 99 (103, 113, 123, 137, 149, 159) held

in patt to end—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every

back sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin

Heather Zoppet ti

22nd (24th, 24th, 24th, 24th, 24th, 26th) row 2

yarn. Work 1 WS row. Shape armholes: BO 3

more times—203 (215, 235, 263, 287, 315, 343)

sts at beg of next 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8) rows, then

sts. Work even until piece measures 15½ (16½,

BO 2 sts at beg of foll 2 (2, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10) rows,

16½, 16½, 16½, 16½, 17½)" from CO, ending

then BO 1 st at beg of foll 2 (2, 2, 4, 8, 6, 8)

with a WS row. Divide for fronts and back:

rows—87 (91, 95, 99, 99, 103, 107) sts rem.

Next row (RS) Work to 2 (2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts

Work even until armhole measures 6½ (7¼, 7¾,

page 16

Sincere Shee p Luminous

Sizes 36¼ (38½, 41¾, 46¾, 51, 55¾, 60¾)"

before m and place these 46 (50, 53, 60, 63, 71,

8½, 8¾, 9¼, 9½)", ending with a WS row. Shape

bust circumference; shown in size 41¾", modeled with 4¾" of positive ease Yarn Sincere Sheep Luminous (85% polwarth wool, 15% tussah silk; 330 yd [302 m]/113 g): • cumulus, 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) skeins Gauge 23 sts and 32 rows = 4" in Dot patt

78) sts on holder for right front, BO 6 (6, 8, 10,

shoulders using short-rows as foll:

BO 6 (6, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14) sts, removing m, work to end—46 (50, 53, 60, 63, 71, 78) sts rem for left front.

Tools • Size 6 (4 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle • Markers (m) • Removable m • Stitch holders • Six 5⁄8 " buttons • Tapestry needle

Left Front Work 1 WS row. Shape armhole: At beg of RS rows, BO 3 sts 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4) time(s), then BO 2 sts 1 (1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) time(s), then BO 1 st 1 (1, 1, 2, 4, 3, 4) time(s)—40 (44, 44, 48, 44, 48, 52) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. Shape neck: Dec

row (RS) Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—1

sleeve

12 (12¾, 14½, 16¾, 18½, 19¾, 21½)"

113, 123, 137, 149, 159) sts on holder for back,

2½ (3, 3¼, 4, 4¼, 4¾, 5)"

18 (19, 19¼, 19¼, 19¼, 19¼, 19½)"

6, 6, 7) sts before m and place these 99 (103,

5¾ (6¼, 6¾, 7, 7, 7½, 7½)"

12, 12, 14) sts, removing m, work to 3 (3, 4, 5,

10 (10, 10½, 11¼, 12, 12¾, 12¾)"

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

This cardigan is worked back and forth in one piece to the underarms, then divided for working the fronts and back separately. The sleeves are worked back and forth from the bottom up. A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches.

Body CO 203 (215, 235, 263, 287, 315, 343) sts. Do not join. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1¾", ending with a

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4¾ (5½, 6, 6½, 6½, 6¾, 7½)"

1" 6½ (7¼, 7½, 7¾, 7, 7¼, 7)" 15½ (16½, 16½, 16½, 16½, 16½, 17½)"

Notes

6½ (7¼, 7¾, 8½, 8¾, 9¼, 9½ )"

5¼ (5¼, 5¼, 5½, 5½, 5½, 5½)"

18¼ (19, 21, 23¼, 26, 28, 30)"

body 33¼ (35¼, 38¾, 43¾, 47¾, 52¾, 57½)"

8¼ (9, 9¾, 11¼, 11¾, 13¼, 14½)"

35¼ (37½, 40¾, 45¾, 50, 54¾, 59¾)"


LLI, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 24 (20,

Sl 1, p1, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Next row

14, 10, 8, 8, 6)th row 5 (1, 6, 6, 12, 9, 19) more

(RS) Sl 1, k1, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Work

time(s), then every 0 (18, 12, 8, 6, 6, 4)th row 0

even in rib until piece measures ½" from

(6, 4, 9, 6, 10, 5) times—69 (73, 83, 97, 107, 113,

pick-up row, ending with a RS row. Shape

Rep last 2 short-rows 2 more times. Next row

123) sts. Work even until piece measures 18

(RS) Work in patt to end, working wraps tog

(19, 19¼, 19¼, 19¼, 19¼, 19½)" from CO,

collar using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (WS) Work in patt to last 12 sts,

wrap next st, turn.

Short-rows 3 and 4 Work in patt to 6 sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.

with wrapped sts. Next row (WS) Work 30 (30,

ending with a WS row. Shape cap: BO 3 (3, 4,

30, 31, 31, 32, 32) sts, BO 27 (31, 35, 37, 37, 39,

5, 6, 6, 7) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3

43) sts, work to end, working wraps tog with

sts at beg of foll 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8) rows, then BO

wrapped sts—30 (30, 30, 31, 31, 32, 32) sts rem

2 sts at beg of foll 2 (2, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10) rows—53

each side. Place sts on holders.

(57, 59, 67, 65, 61, 65) sts rem. Work 12 (14, 16,

wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Work in patt to end.

wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Work in patt to end. Shor t-row 3 Work in patt to 12 sts before

12, 12, 18, 14) rows even, ending with a WS

Rep last 2 short-rows 5 (7, 7, 8, 7, 8, 8) more

Right Front

row. BO 1 st at beg of next 24 (26, 26, 30, 26,

times. Next row (WS) Work in patt to end,

Return 46 (50, 53, 60, 63, 71, 78) held right front

20, 22) rows—29 (31, 33, 37, 39, 41, 43) sts rem.

working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Work

sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn.

BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 4 sts at

2 rows even. BO all sts in patt.

Shape armhole: At beg of WS rows, BO 3 sts

beg of foll 2 rows—15 (17, 19, 23, 25, 27, 29) sts

1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4) time(s), then BO 2 sts 1 (1, 1, 2,

rem. BO all sts.

s

3, 4, 5) time(s), then BO 1 st 1 (1, 1, 2, 4, 3, 4) time(s)—40 (44, 44, 48, 44, 48, 52) sts rem.

Finishing

Shape neck: Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, work in

Weave in ends. Block pieces to measurements.

patt to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every 4th

With RS tog, join shoulders using three-needle

(2nd, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd) row 9 (4, 3, 8, 3,

BO. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve seams. Button

8, 17) more times, then every 4th row 0 (9, 10,

band: With RS facing, beg at base of left front

8, 9, 7, 2) times—30 (30, 30, 31, 31, 32, 32) sts

neck, pick up and knit 97 (103, 105, 109, 115,

rem. Work even until armhole measures 6½

115, 123) sts evenly spaced along left front,

(7¼, 7¾, 8½, 8¾, 9¼, 9½)", ending with a WS

ending at left front lower edge. Work in k1, p1

row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll:

rib for 1". BO all sts in patt. Sew 6 evenly-

Short-row 1 (RS) Work in patt to last 6 sts, wrap

spaced buttons on button band. Buttonhole band: Pm along right front opposite buttons.

next st, turn.

Short-row 2 (WS) Work in patt to end. Short-row 3 Work in patt to 6 sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.

With RS facing, beg at right front lower edge, pick up and knit 97 (103, 105, 109, 115, 115, 123) sts along right front, ending at base of right

Short-row 4 Work in patt to end.

front neck. Work in k1, p1 rib for ½", ending

Rep last 2 short-rows 2 more times. Next row

with a WS row. Next row (RS) *Work in rib to

(RS) Work in patt to end, working wraps tog

m, k2tog, yo; rep from * 5 more times, work in

with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder.

rib to end. Cont in rib until band measures 1" from pick-up row. BO all sts in patt. Collar:

Sleeves

Note: WS of garment is RS of collar. With WS of

CO 57 (57, 61, 65, 69, 73, 73) sts. Do not join.

garment facing, beg at left front neck edge

Work in k1, p1 rib for 1¾", ending with a RS

after button band, pick up and knit 106 (122,

row. Next row (WS) Purl. Beg and ending as

130, 134, 130, 134, 142) sts evenly spaced

indicated for sleeve, work Dot chart for 2 rows.

around neck edge, ending before buttonhole

Inc row (RS) K1, RLI, work in patt to last st,

band. Next row (RS of garment; WS of collar)

CAPILL ARY SCARF Heather Zoppet ti p a g e 19

T h e Fi b e r S e e d S i l k y S e e d L a c e

Sizes 9¾" wide and 57½" long, ungathered Yarn The Fiber Seed Silky Seed Lace

Dot 7 5

k on RS; p on WS p on RS pattern repeat end left front

end back

end sleeve

beg back

(50% merino wool, 50% silk; 600 yd [549 m]/ 55 g): • silver (MC), 1 skein • sunflower (CC), 1 skein Gauge 22 sts and 34 rows = 4" in Mesh patt

3

Tools

1

• Size 5 (3.75 mm) needles • Tapestry needle

beg right front

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for end right front

beg sleeve

beg left front

terms you don’t know.

Summer16 Knitscene

61

Designer

Short-rows 1 and 2 Work in patt to last 6 sts,


Scarf

lished until piece measures 1" from CO, ending

Designer

With MC, CO 58 sts. Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise

with a WS row. Next row (RS) P1, work Wave

wyf, knit to end. Rep last row 6 more times,

chart over 57 (63, 69, 81, 87, 93) sts, place

ending with a WS row. Work Mesh chart until

marker (pm), p1, pm, work Wave chart over 123

piece measures 57" from CO, ending with a

(135, 147, 165, 177, 195) sts, pm, p1, pm, work

WS row. Next row Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to end.

Wave chart to last st, p1. Next row (WS) K1,

Rep last row 5 more times. Loosely BO all sts.

*work in chart patt to m, sl m, k1, sl m; rep from

I-cord

Shape waist: Dec row (RS) *Work in patt to 2

With CC, CO 4 sts. *Do not turn; sl sts to left

sts before m, k2tog, sl m, p1, sl m, ssk; rep from

needle without twisting, pull yarn around the

* once more, work in patt to end—4 sts dec’d.

back and k4; rep from * until cord is about 126"

Rep Dec row every 20th (22nd, 22nd, 20th,

long. Break yarn leaving a 6" tail and draw tail

22nd, 22nd) row 3 (1, 1, 3, 1, 1) more time(s),

through live sts to fasten off.

then every 20th row 0 (2, 2, 0, 2, 2) times—225

* once more, work in chart patt to last st, k1.

(249, 273, 315, 339, 369) sts rem: 54 (60, 66, 78,

Finishing

84, 90) sts each front, 1 st each “seam”, and 115

Block scarf to measurements. Weave in ends.

(127, 139, 157, 169, 187) back sts. Work 9 rows

Mark two parallel columns of eyelets on first

even. Inc row (RS) *Work in patt to m, LLI, sl m,

ROSUL ATE TA NK

p1, sl m, RLI; rep from * once more, work in patt

on scarf (there should be 3 staggered columns of eyelets between marked columns). Beg at

Heather Zoppet ti

3 (2, 2, 3, 2, 2) more times, then every 22nd row

patt row of scarf about 1½" apart and centered

page 20

CO edge, thread I-cord vertically through

to end—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 20th row 0 (1, 1, 0, 1, 1) more time—241 (265, 289, 331,

eyelets of one marked column to end of scarf,

355, 385) sts: 58 (64, 70, 82, 88, 94) sts each

thread it horizontally to other marked column,

front, 1 st each “seam”, and 123 (135, 147, 165,

then back down vertically to CO edge. Pull

B a a h Ya r n S a v a n n a h

Sizes 34¼ (37½, 40¾, 46¾, 50, 54)" bust

CO, ending with a WS row. Divide for fronts

circumference, buttoned; shown in size 37½", modeled with ½" of positive ease Yarn Baah Yarn Savannah (80% wool, 10% nylon, 10% cashmere; 400 yd [366 m]/ 100 g): periwinkle, 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5) skeins Gauge 29 sts and 40 rows = 4" in Wave patt

and back: Next row (RS) Work to 7 (8, 9, 10,

Tools

back, BO 14 (16, 18, 20, 24, 28) sts, removing m, work to end—51 (56, 61, 72, 76, 80) sts rem for

k on WS

• Size 5 (3.75 mm): 24–40" circular (cir) needle, depending on size you are making, and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m) • Removable m • Stitch holders • Six ½" buttons • Tapestry needle

k2tog

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

knot in each end of I-cord and tie ends of cord as desired.

177, 195) back sts. Work even until piece measures 15 (15½, 15½, 15, 15½, 15½)" from

gently on ends of cord to gather scarf. Make a

s

Mesh 3 1 4 st repeat

k on RS; p on WS

12, 14) sts before m and place 51 (56, 61, 72, 76, 80) sts just worked on holder for right front, BO 14 (16, 18, 20, 24, 28) sts, removing m, work to 7 (8, 9, 10, 12, 14) sts before m and place 111 (121, 131, 147, 155, 169) sts just worked on holder for

left front.

Left Front Work 1 WS row even. Note: Armhole and neck shaping occur simultaneously; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Shape armhole: At beg of RS rows, BO 3 sts 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 5) times, BO 2 sts 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5)

terms you don’t know.

times, then BO 1 st 2 (3, 3, 8, 8, 8) times, at the same time, when armhole measures 1¼ (1¾,

Notes

neck as foll: Next row (WS) BO 19 (21, 23, 27,

This tank is worked back and forth in one piece

28, 25) sts, work in patt to end—20 (20, 20, 20,

yo sl 1 pwise wyf on WS sl 1 pwise wyf on RS

1¾, 2¼, 2, 2½)", ending with a RS row, shape

from the lower edge to the underarms, then

20, 22) sts rem when all shaping is complete.

divided for working the fronts and back

Work even until armhole measures 7 (7½, 8,

separately.

pattern repeat

A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches.

Body With cir needle, CO 241 (265, 289, 331, 355, 385) sts. Do not join. Next row (WS) K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end. Work in rib patt as estab-

62

www.knitscene.com

8½, 8¾, 9¼)", ending with a RS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll:

Short-row 1 (WS) Work in patt to last 5 sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Work in patt to end. Short-row 3 Work in patt to 5 sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Work in patt to end.


Love the vintage-inspired knits in this issue of Knitscene? Get more vintage knitting patterns with the

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fun, fresh, and flirty projects with style.

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2¾ (2¾, 2¾, 2¾, 2¾, 3)"

Rep last 2 short-rows once more. Next row (WS) Work in patt to end, working wraps tog

6½ (7, 7½, 7¾, 8¼, 8¼)"

with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder.

Designer

¾"

Back Return 111 (121, 131, 147, 155, 169) back sts to

6½ (6½, 7, 7, 7½, 7½)"

7 (7½, 8, 8½, 8¾, 9¼)"

needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work 1 WS row even. Shape armholes: BO 3 sts at

body

beg of next 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 10) rows, BO 2 sts at beg of next 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10) rows, then BO 1 st

15 (15½, 15½, 15, 15½, 15½)"

at beg of next 4 (6, 6, 16, 16, 16) rows—87 (91,

31 (34¼, 37¾, 43½, 46¾, 51)"

95, 97, 99, 103) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 8¾, 9¼)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work 20 (20, 20, 20, 20, 22) sts in patt and

33¼ (36½, 39¾, 45¾, 49, 53)"

place these sts on holder for right shoulder, BO 47 (51, 55, 57, 59, 59) sts, work to end—20 (20, 20, 20, 20, 22) sts rem for left shoulder. Left

Wave

k on RS; p on WS

shoulder: Work 1 WS row. Shape shoulder

11

using short-rows as foll:

k on WS

9

Short-row 1 (RS) Work in patt to last 5 sts, wrap

7

next st, turn.

Short-row 2 (WS) Work in patt to end. Short-row 3 Work in patt to 5 sts before wrapped

k2tog, leaving both sts on needle, knit first st; sl both sts off needle

5 3

st, wrap next st, turn. 1

Short-row 4 Work in patt to end. Rep last 2 short-rows once more. Next row

6 st repeat

skip first st on left needle, knit 2nd st tbl, k2tog tbl; sl both sts off needle pattern repeat

(RS) Work in patt to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder. Right shoulder: Return 20 (20, 20, 20, 20, 22) held right shoulder sts to needle and, with WS

ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder using

(mark this new st); rep from * 3 more times,

facing, rejoin yarn. Shape shoulder using

short-rows as foll:

work in rib patt as established to end—8 sts

short-rows as foll:

Short-row 1 (RS) Work in patt to last 5 sts, wrap

dec’d. Next row (WS) Work in patt. Rep last 2

Short-row 1 (WS) Work in patt to last 5 sts, wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 2 (RS) Work in patt to end. Short-row 3 Work in patt to 5 sts before wrapped

next st, turn.

Short-row 2 (WS) Work in patt to end. Short-row 3 Work in patt to 5 sts before wrapped

rows 3 more times—149 (157, 171, 175, 185, 185) sts rem. BO all sts in patt. Ruffle: With cir needle and RS facing, beg at top of left

st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Work in patt to end.

neckband, pick up and knit 117 (119, 119, 119,

Short-row 4 Work in patt to end.

Rep last 2 short-rows once more. Next row

WS of ruffle faces RS of garment. Next row (RS

Rep last 2 short-rows once more. Next row

(RS) Work in patt to end, working wraps tog

of ruffle) *K1f&b; rep from * to end—234 (238,

(WS) Work in patt to end, working wraps tog

with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder.

238, 238, 242, 250) sts. Next row (WS) Purl. Next row (RS) Knit. Rep last 2 rows until ruffle

st, wrap next st, turn.

with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder.

121, 125) sts evenly along left front edge. Note:

Finishing

measures 1¼" from pick-up row. Knit 3 rows.

Right Front

Block to measurements. Join shoulders using

BO all sts. Button band: With cir needle and

Return 51 (56, 61, 72, 76, 80) held right front sts

three-needle BO. Armhole edging: With dpn

RS facing, beg at top of left neckband, pick up

to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn.

and RS facing, beg at center of underarm and

and knit 117 (119, 119, 119, 121, 125) sts evenly

Note: Armhole and neck shaping occur

pick up and knit 114 (124, 134, 142, 150, 162)

along left front edge to bottom hem, using

simultaneously; read the foll section all the

sts evenly around armhole edge. Pm and join

same sts as for ruffle. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1".

way through before proceeding. Shape

in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1". BO all sts in

BO all sts in patt. Sew 6 evenly spaced buttons

armhole: At beg of WS rows, BO 3 sts 2 (2, 3,

patt. Neckband: With cir needle and RS

on button band. Buttonhole band: With cir

3, 4, 5) times, BO 2 sts 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5) times,

facing, beg at right front neck edge and pick

needle and RS facing, beg at bottom hem, pick

then BO 1 st 2 (3, 3, 8, 8, 8) times, at the same

up and knit 181 (189, 203, 207, 217, 217) sts

up and knit 117 (119, 119, 119, 121, 125) sts

time, when armhole measures 1¼ (1¾, 1¾, 2¼,

evenly along neck edge. Do not join. Next row

evenly along right front edge to top of collar.

2, 2½)", ending with a WS row, shape neck as

(WS) P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Place

Work in k1, p1 rib for ½", ending with a WS

foll: Next row (RS) BO 19 (21, 23, 27, 28, 25) sts,

removable m on knit st nearest each of 4 neck

row. Buttonhole row (RS) Work in patt,

work in patt to end—20 (20, 20, 20, 20, 22) sts

corners. Dec row (RS) *Work in rib as

working a [yo, k2tog] across from each button.

rem when all shaping is complete. Work even

established to 1 st before marked st, remove

Cont in rib patt until band measures 1". BO all

until armhole measures 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 8¾, 9¼)",

m, sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2 sl sts over

sts in patt. Weave in ends.

64

www.knitscene.com

s


TA K E A S T E P I N A

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Tropical

CORDI A TA NK Ke r r i B l um e r page 2 5

to m] 2 times. Rep last rnd once more. Change

k2tog, knit to 4 sts before m, ssk, k1, pm, sl 1

to larger needle. Set-up rnd *Work 11 (11, 15,

pwise, remove m, transfer st from right needle

15, 19, 19, 19) sts in rib, pm, knit to 11 (11, 15,

to left needle, ssp, [k1, p1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8)

15, 19, 19, 19) sts before m, pm, work in rib to

times, k1—4 sts dec’d. Work 1 WS row. Rep last

m; rep from * once more. Cont in patt until

2 rows 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 1) more time—64 (74, 84,

piece measures 3" from CO. Shape waist:

94, 100, 110, 120) sts rem; 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) sts

Dec rnd *Work in patt to m, k1, k2tog, knit to

for chart. Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9)

3 sts before m, ssk, k1, sl m, work in patt to m;

times, sl m, k1, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before m,

rep from * once more—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec

ssk, sl m, work chart to m, k2tog, knit to 3 sts

rnd every 10th rnd 8 (4, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0) more times,

before m, ssk, k1, sl m, [p1, k1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9)

then every 8th rnd 1 (6, 11, 5, 2, 0, 0) time(s),

times—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row

then every 6th rnd 0 (0, 0, 8, 12, 14, 10) times,

4 (7, 9, 12, 11, 14, 16) more times—54 (58, 64,

then every 4th rnd 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 7) time(s)—

68, 76, 80, 86) sts rem; 16 (22, 26, 32, 32, 38, 42)

138 (158, 178, 194, 214, 230, 250) sts rem. Work

sts for chart; Row 11 (17, 21, 27, 27, 33, 37) of

8 rnds even. Inc rnd *Work in patt to m, k1, M1,

chart is complete. Work 1 WS row.

knit to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m, work in patt

Sizes 42¼ (46¼)" only:

to m; rep from * once more—4 sts inc’d. Rep

Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 9 times, sl m, k1 (0), sssk,

Inc rnd every 12 (12, 12, 8, 9, 7, 7)th rnd 2 (2, 2,

sl m, work chart to m, k3tog, k1 (0), sl m, [p1,

3, 3, 4, 4) more times—150 (170, 190, 210, 230,

k1] 9 times—74 (78) sts rem; 34 (40) sts for

250, 270) sts. Work even until piece measures

chart; Row 29 (35) of chart is complete. Work

17¾ (17¾, 17¾, 17¾, 18¼, 18¼, 18¼)" from CO.

1 WS row.

Divide for front and back: Next rnd K2tog,

Sizes 27¾ (31¾, 35, 39, 42¼)" only:

[p1, k1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) times, sl 1 pwise,

Next row (RS) [K1, p1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9) times, sl m,

remove m, transfer st from right needle to left

knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, work chart to

needle, p2tog, pm, k1, k2tog, k20 (25, 26, 31,

m, k2tog, knit to m, [p1, k1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9) times.

32, 37, 42), pm for chart, k1, k2tog, k2, pm for

Work 1 WS row. Rep last 2 rows 7 (6, 3, 2, 0)

Sizes 27¾ (31¾, 35, 39, 42¼, 46¼, 50¼)"

chart, knit to 4 sts before m, ssk, k1, pm, sl 1

more times—32 (36, 34, 38, 36) sts for chart;

bust circumference; shown in size 27¾", modeled with 5¼" of negative ease Yarn Stitch Sprouts Yellowstone (80% wool, 20% silk; 285 yd [261 m]/100 g): • #SSY008 caldera, 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins Gauge 20 sts and 36 rnds = 4" in St st on larger needle

pwise, remove m, transfer st from right needle

Row 28 (32, 30, 34, 32) of chart is complete.

to left needle, ssp, [k1, p1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8)

Size 50¼" only:

Front

1 WS row. Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 9 times, sl m,

Tools

Work 1 WS row. Shape armholes: Dec row

k1, k2tog, sl m, work chart to m, ssk, k1, sl m,

• Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" and 24–40" circular (cir) needle, depending on size you are making • Size 6 (4 mm): 24–40" cir needle • Markers (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Stitch holder • Tapestry needle

(RS) K1, [p1, k1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) times, sl 1

[p1, k1] 9 times—82 sts rem. Work 1 WS row.

pwise, remove m, transfer st from right needle

Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 9 times, sl m, ssk, sl m,

to left needle, p2tog, pm, k1, k2tog, knit to 2 sts

work chart to m, k2tog, sl m, [p1, k1] 9

before m, ssk, sl m, work Yoke Inc chart to m,

times—80 sts rem. Work 1 WS row.

terms you don’t know.

Notes This tank is worked in the round to the underarm, then the front and back are worked separately back and forth.

Body With smaller needle, CO 89 (101, 113, 125, 137, 147, 161) sts, place marker (pm) for side, CO 89 (101, 113, 125, 137, 147, 161) sts—178 (202, 226, 250, 274, 294, 322) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Knit 4 rnds. Next rnd [P1, *k1, p1; rep from *

66

www.knitscene.com

Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 9 times, sl m, k1, k2tog,

135) sts on holder for back—68 (78, 88, 98, 108,

k1, sl m, beg and ending as indicated for your

118, 128) sts rem for front.

size, work Row 3 of Yoke chart to m, k1, ssk, k1, sl m, [p1, k1] 9 times—84 sts rem. Work

2½ (2½, 3, 3½, 4, 4, 4)"

6¼ (7, 7½, 7½, 7¾, 8½, 9)"

½"

17¾ (17¾, 17¾, 17¾, 18¼, 18¼, 18¼)"

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

times, ssk, place next 75 (85, 95, 105, 115, 125,

7¼ (7¾, 7¾, 8¼, 8¼, 8¾, 9½ )"

S t i t c h S p r o u t s Ye l l o w s t o n e

2½ (2½, 2¾, 2¾, 3, 3, 3)"

27¾ (31¾, 35, 39, 42¼, 46¼, 50¼)" 25½ (29½ , 32½, 35¾, 39, 42¼, 46¼)"

body

33½ (38¼, 42¼, 47, 51, 55, 60½)"


Yoke Increase k on RS; p on WS

Tropical

37

p on RS; k on WS

35

yo

33 31

pattern repeat

29

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1, k1 from cn

27 25

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k1, k1 from cn

23

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1, p1 from cn

21 19

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, p1, k1 from cn

17 15

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn

13 11

Yoke

9

3

7

1

5 3 1 4 sts to 42 sts

end 50¼"

end 27¾"

end 46¼" end 39"

7 st repeat beg 27¾"

end 35"

beg 50¼" beg 46¼"

beg 35" beg 31¾" 42¼"

end 31¾" 42¼"

beg 39"

All sizes:

4) times, k1, sl m, yo, knit to last 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8,

10 (10, 12, 13, 15, 15, 15) sts rem. Next row

Next row (RS) [K1, p1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9) times,

8) sts, [p1, k1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times—17 (17,

(WS) Work to last 2 sts, ssp—9 (9, 11, 12, 14,

sl m, k1, sl m, beg and ending as indicated for

21, 23, 27, 27, 27) sts rem for right strap. Right

14, 14) sts rem. Next row (RS) BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7,

your size, work Row 1 (1, 3, 3, 1, 1, 1) of Yoke

strap: Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) Sssk,

7, 7) sts, work to end—5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts rem.

chart to m, k1, sl m, [p1, k1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9)

work to m, sl m, yo, work in patt to end—1 st

Next row (WS) Work to last 2 sts, ssp—4 (4, 5,

times. Work 5 (5, 5, 1, 1, 1, 1) row(s) even in

dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3,

5, 6, 6, 6) sts rem. BO all sts.

patt, removing all m on last row. Set-up for

3) more time(s)—15 (15, 18, 20, 23, 23, 23) sts

straps: Strap shift set-up row (RS) [K1, p1] 2

rem. Work 1 WS row. Next row (RS) Ssk,

Back

(2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, yo, pm, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3,

remove m, work in patt to end—14 (14, 17, 19,

Return 75 (85, 95, 105, 115, 125, 135) held back

4, 4, 4) times, k1, ssp, work in patt to last 11

22, 22, 22) sts rem. Work 12 rows even, ending

sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin yarn.

(11, 15, 15, 19, 19, 19) sts, p2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3,

with a RS row. Shape shoulder: Next row

Next row (RS) K2tog, [p1, k1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8)

3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, pm, yo, [p1, k1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4,

(WS) BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts, work to end—10

times, sl 1 pwise, remove m, transfer st from

4, 4) times—44 (48, 50, 54, 56, 60, 62) sts

(10, 12, 13, 15, 15, 15) sts rem. Next row (RS)

right needle to left needle, p2tog, pm, k1,

between m. Work 1 WS row. Strap shift row

Work to last 2 sts, k2tog—9 (9, 11, 12, 14, 14,

k2tog, knit to 4 sts before m, ssk, k1, pm, sl 1

(RS) [K1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, knit to m,

14) sts rem. Next row (WS) BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7)

pwise, remove m, transfer st from right needle

yo, sl m, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, ssp,

sts, work to end—5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts rem.

to left needle, ssp, [k1, p1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8)

work in patt to 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11) sts before m,

Next row (RS) Work to last 2 sts, k2tog—4 (4,

times, ssk—69 (79, 89, 99, 109, 119, 129) sts

p2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, sl m,

5, 5, 6, 6, 6) sts rem. With WS facing, BO all sts.

yo, knit to last 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) sts, [p1, k1] 2 (2,

Left strap: Return 17 (17, 21, 23, 27, 27, 27)

rem. Work 1 WS row. Shape armholes: Dec row (RS) K1, [p1, k1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) times, sl 1

3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times. Rep Strap shift row every RS

held sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin

pwise, remove m, transfer st from right needle

row 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6) more times—34 (38, 40,

yarn. Dec row (WS) P2tog, work in patt to

to left needle, p2tog, pm, k1, k2tog, knit to 4

40, 42, 46, 48) sts between m. Work 1 WS row.

end—1 st dec’d. Shift row (RS) Work in patt to

sts before m, ssk, k1, pm, sl 1 pwise, remove m,

Shape neck: Next row (RS) [K1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3,

m, yo, sl m, work in patt to last 2 sts, k2tog.

transfer st from right needle to left needle, ssp,

4, 4, 4) times, knit to m, yo, sl m, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3,

Rep last 2 rows 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3) more time(s),

[k1, p1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) times, k1—4 sts dec’d.

3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, ssp, place 17 (17, 21, 23, 27,

then work Dec row once more—14 (14, 17, 19,

Work 1 WS row. Rep last 2 rows 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1,

27, 27) sts just worked on holder for left strap,

22, 22, 22) sts rem. Work 12 rows even, ending

1) more time—65 (75, 85, 95, 101, 111, 121) sts

BO 19 (23, 21, 21, 19, 23, 25) sts, k2tog, pass st

with a WS row. Shape shoulder: Next row

rem. Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9)

rem from BO over k2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4,

(RS) BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts, work to end—

times, sl m, k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before m, Summer16 Knitscene

67


ssk, k1, sl m, [p1, k1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9) times—2

Notes

sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 4 (7, 9, 12,

When working the Chevron chart, do not break

Tropical

12, 15, 19) more times—55 (59, 65, 69, 75, 79,

yarns after color changes, but carry yarns

81) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures

loosely along the side edge until they are

4 (4¼, 4, 4, 4, 4¼, 5¼)", ending with a WS row

needed again. Bring new color under old

and removing m on last row. Set-up for

color at each color change. Break the con-

straps: Strap shift set-up row (RS) [K1, p1] 2

trasting color after the chevron pattern sec-

(2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, yo, pm, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3,

tion is complete and continue with the main

4, 4, 4) times, k1, ssp, knit to last 11 (11, 15, 15,

color only.

19, 19, 19) sts, p2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, pm, yo, [p1, k1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

Scarf

times—45 (49, 51, 55, 57, 61, 63) sts between

With MC, CO 98 sts. *Work Set-up Rows 1 and 2

m. Work 1 WS row. Strap shift row (RS) [K1,

of Chevron chart once, then work Rows 1–12 of

p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, knit to m, yo, sl m,

chart 6 times, then work Rows 1–10 once more.

[k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, ssp, knit to 7

Break CC. With MC, work 54 rows in St st; rep

(7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11) sts before m, p2tog, [k1, p1] 2

from * 2 more times. Work Set-up Rows 1 and 2

(2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, sl m, yo, knit to last 4

of chart once, then work Rows 1–12 of chart 6

(4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) sts, [p1, k1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

times, then work Rows 1–10 once more. Break

times. Rep Strap shift row every RS row 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6) more times—35 (39, 41, 41, 43, 47, 49) sts between m. Work 1 WS row. Shape neck:

Next row (RS) [K1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times,

CC. With MC, BO all sts.

COMMELINA SCARF

Finishing

S a r a h T hi e n e m a n

Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

page 26

knit to m, yo, sl m, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

s

times, k1, ssp, place 17 (17, 21, 23, 27, 27, 27)

Sarah Thieneman can be found on Ravelry

sts just worked on holder for right strap, BO 20

as SarahDianneT. C a s c a d e Ya r n s U l t r a P i m a

(24, 22, 22, 20, 24, 26) sts, k2tog, pass st rem from BO over k2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, sl m, yo, knit to last 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) sts, [p1, k1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times—17 (17, 21,

Size 17" wide and 56" long Yarn Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (100% pima

smaller 16" cir needle and RS facing, beg at

cotton; 220 yd [201 m]/100 g): • #3735 jade (MC), 3 skeins Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Paints (100% pima cotton; 220 yd [201 m]/100 g): • #9782 carnival mix (CC), 2 skeins Gauge 23 sts and 27 rows = 4" in St st; 29 sts and 42 rows = 4" in Chevron patt

left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 18 (18, 19,

Tools

20, 21, 21, 21) sts evenly spaced along left front

• Size 5 (3.75 mm) needles • Tapestry needle

23, 27, 27, 27) sts rem for left strap. Left strap: Work as for front right strap. Right strap: Work as for front left strap.

Finishing Sew shoulder seams. Neck edging: With

strap, 20 (24, 22, 22, 20, 24, 26) sts along front

with MC, k on RS; p on WS with CC, k on RS; p on WS with MC, k on WS with CC, k on WS sl 1 pwise wyb on RS; sl 1 pwise wyf on WS sl 1 pwise wyb on RS; sl 1 pwise wyf on WS

neck BO, 18 (18, 19, 20, 21, 21, 21) sts along

pattern repeat

right front strap to shoulder, 18 (18, 19, 20, 21,

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

21, 21) sts along right back strap to back neck

terms you don’t know.

BO, 21 (25, 23, 23, 21, 25, 27) sts along back neck BO, and 18 (18, 19, 20, 21, 21, 21) sts along

Chevron

left back strap to shoulder—113 (121, 121, 125, 125, 133, 137) sts total. Pm and join in the rnd.

11

Knit 4 rnds. With larger needle, BO all sts. Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

9

s

7

Kerri Blumer is based in Columbus, Ohio, where she spends her days as a technical designer in the fashion industry and her nights growing her knit design business. You can find her on Ravelry as kerriknits, or follow her knitting adventures on her blog at www.kerriknits.tumblr.com.

68

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5 3 1 set-up 2 set-up 1 24 st repeat


See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

Stitches KOK: (K1, yo, k1) in same st—2 sts inc’d.

Front CO 67 (83, 97, 113, 127, 141) sts. Mark center st with removable m. Inc row (RS) Knit to marked center st, KOK (see Stitches), knit to end—2 sts inc’d. Next row (WS) Knit. Rep last

Tropical

from the top down and seamed.

16¼ (18, 20, 22, 23¾, 25¾)"

This tank is worked back and forth in pieces

1½"

17¾ (17¾, 18¾, 18¾, 19¾, 19¾)"

Notes

7¼ (8, 8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾)"

terms you don’t know.

front & back

19 (21, 23¼, 25½, 27¾, 30)"

2 rows 8 more times—85 (101, 115, 131, 145, 159) sts. Next row (RS) BO 16 (19, 21, 24, 26, 28) sts, knit to marked st, KOK, knit to end—71 (84, 96, 109, 121, 133) sts rem. Next row (WS)

A LPINI A TA NK

BO 16 (19, 21, 24, 26, 28) sts, knit to end—55

C or r in a F e r g u s o n

(65, 75, 85, 95, 105) sts rem. Work Rows 1–20 of

page 2 9

k on RS; p on WS p on RS; k on WS

Increase chart for your size once, then work

k1tbl on RS

Rows 1–10 once more—85 (95, 105, 115, 125,

k1tbl on WS

135) sts. Place removable m at edges for top of A n c i e n t A r t s He a v y L a c e

side seam. Rep Rows 1–20 of Body chart for

yo

your size until piece measures 12 (12, 13, 13,

Sizes 32½ (36, 40, 44, 47½, 51½)" bust

14, 14)" from m, measured along side, ending

circumference; shown in size 32½", modeled with ½" of negative ease Yarn Ancient Arts Heavy Lace (65% silk, 35% linen; 765 yd [700 m]/113 g): • #RG01 raspberry gelato, 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Gauge 18 sts and 27 rows = 4" in charted patt; 18 sts and 30 rows = 4" in garter st

with a RS row. Knit 1 WS row. Pm on center st.

Tools

time(s).

• Size 4 (3.5 mm) needles • Removable markers (m) • Tapestry needle

Short-row 5 (RS) Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and next

k2tog ssk

Shape sides using short-rows as foll:

Short-row 1 (RS) K3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4), turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Yo, knit to end. Short-row 3 Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and next st),

k3tog sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso sl 1 pwise wyf on RS

k2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3), turn.

Short-row 4 Yo, knit to end.

sl 1 pwise wyf on WS

Rep last 2 short-rows 11 (7, 2, 11, 6, 1) more O

(k1, yo, k1) in same st no stitch

st), k2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4), turn.

Short-row 6 (WS) Yo, knit to end.

pattern repeat

Increase, sizes 32½", 40", 47½" O

19

O

17

O

15

O

13

O

11

O

9

O

7

O

5

O

3

O

10 st repeat

1 10 st repeat

marked st

Summer16 Knitscene

69


Rep last 2 short-rows 0 (4, 9, 0, 5, 10) more times—first half completed. Next row (RS)

Short-row 5 (WS) Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and next st), k2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4), turn.

Finishing Weave in ends. Block pieces to measurements.

Tropical

Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and next st), knit to end.

Short-row 6 (RS) Yo, knit to end.

Sew shoulder seams. Sew side seams from

Short-row 1 (WS) K3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4), turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Yo, knit to end. Short-row 3 Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and next st),

Rep last 2 short-rows 0 (4, 9, 0, 5, 10) more

lower edge to m.

k2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3), turn.

s

times. Next row (WS) Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and next st), knit to end. Knit 13 rows. With WS facing, loosely BO all sts kwise.

Short-row 4 Yo, knit to end. Rep last 2 short-rows 11 (7, 2, 11, 6, 1) more

Back

time(s).

Work as for front.

Corrina Ferguson didn’t start knitting until she moved to Florida, but fortunately she’s become one of those crazy Florida people who think 60° is cold. Corrina is a knitwear designer, teacher, and author of Warm Days, Cool Knits (Interweave, 2015).

Increase, sizes 36", 44", 51½" O

19

O

17

O

15

O

13

O

11

O

9

O

7

O

5

O

3

O

10 st repeat

1 10 st repeat

marked st

Body, sizes 32½", 40", 47½" O

19

O

17

O

15

O

13

O

11

O

9

O

7

O

5

O

3

O

1

10 st repeat

10 st repeat marked st

Body, sizes 36", 44", 51½" O

19

O

17

O

15

O

13

O

11

O

9

O

7

O

5

O

3

O

1

10 st repeat

10 st repeat marked st

70

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Row 2 (WS) K1, *p1tbl, k1; rep from * to end.

measures about 9½" from shoulder m. Place

Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

removable m at armhole edge to mark beg of

Right Side

Work in patt to m, sl m, ssk, work in patt to

Back: Using a provisional method, CO 108

end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every 10th row 4

(124) sts. Set-up row 1 (RS) K1, work Twisted

more times—89 (105) sts rem. Work 9 rows

Tropical

sleeve shaping. Shape sleeve: Dec row (RS)

Rib (see Stitches) over 19 sts, place marker

even, ending with Row 10 of chart. Dec row

(pm), knit to last 20 sts, pm, work Twisted Rib

(RS) Work in patt to m, sl m, ssk (removing m),

over 19 sts, k1. Set-up row 2 (WS) Sl 1 (see

work in patt to end—88 (104) sts rem. Work

Notes), work in rib patt to m, sl m, purl to m,

through Row 20 of chart, then work Rows 1–20

sl m, work in rib patt to last st, p1. Next row

of chart 5 more times. Next row (RS) Work in

(RS) Sl 1, work in rib patt to m, sl m, [work

patt to m, sl m, knit to last m, removing chart

Lace chart over 16 sts, pm] 3 (4) times, knit to

m as you come to them, sl m, work in patt to

m, sl m, work in rib patt to last st, k1. Cont in

end. Next row (WS) Work in patt to m, remove

patt as established until Rows 1–20 of chart

m, purl to last m, remove m, work in patt to

have been worked 5 times, then work Rows

end. Break yarn and place sts on holder.

1–8 of chart once more—piece measures

Left Side

about 13" from CO. Shape sleeve: Next row

HELICONI A WR AP Nor i ko H o page 3 0

T h e F i b r e C o m p a ny M e a d o w

(RS) Work in patt to m, sl m, M1R, pm, work in

Back: Using a provisional method, CO 108

patt to end—109 (125) sts. Work 9 rows even,

(124) sts. Set-up row 1 (RS) K1, work Twisted

working new st in St st. Inc row (RS) Work in

Rib over 19 sts, pm, knit to last 20 sts, pm,

patt to m, sl m, M1R, knit to m, sl m, work in

work Twisted Rib over 19 sts, k1. Set-up row 2

patt to end—1 st inc’d. Rep Inc row every 10th

(WS) Sl 1, work in rib patt to m, sl m, purl to m,

row 4 more times—114 (130) sts. Work 1 WS

sl m, work in rib patt to last st, p1. Next row

row even, ending with Row 20 of chart. Place a

(RS) Sl 1, work in rib patt to m, sl m, k20, [pm,

removable m at armhole edge to mark end of

work Lace chart over 16 sts] 3 (4) times, sl m,

Sizes 33½ (39)" back width at underarm;

sleeve shaping. Work 2 rows even. Shape

work in rib patt to last st, k1. Cont in patt as

shown in size 33½" on model with 37" bust Yarn The Fibre Company Meadow (40% merino wool, 25% baby llama, 20% silk, 15% linen; 545 yd [498 m]/100 g): • cosmos, 3 (4) skeins Yarn distributed by Kelbourne Woolens Gauge 29 sts and 34 rows = 4" in St st

neck: Dec row (RS) Work in patt to 2 sts

established until Rows 1–20 of chart have

before last m, k2tog, sl m, work in patt to

been worked 5 times, then work Rows 1–8 of

end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every 4th row 18

chart once more—piece measures about 13"

more times—95 (111) sts rem. Work 3 rows

from CO. Shape sleeve: Next row (RS) Work

even, ending with Row 18 of chart. Dec row

in patt to last m, sl m, M1L, pm, work in patt to

(RS) Work in patt to 1 st before last chart m,

end—109 (125) sts. Work 9 rows even, working

sl next st from left needle to right needle,

new st in St st. Inc row (RS) Work in patt to

Tools

remove m, sl st back to left needle, k2tog, sl m,

last chart m, sl m, knit to m, M1L, sl m, work in

• Size 4 (3.5 mm) needles • Markers (m) • Removable m • Tapestry needle • Stitch holder

work in patt to end—94 (110) sts rem. Work 1

patt to end—1 st inc’d. Rep Inc row every 10th

WS row even, ending with Row 20 of chart—

row 4 more times—114 (130) sts. Work 1 WS

armhole measures about 9½" from m. Place

row even, ending with Row 20 of chart. Place a

removable m at armhole edge to mark

removable m at armhole edge to mark end of

shoulder. Front: Cont in patt as established

sleeve shaping. Work 2 rows even. Shape

until Rows 1–20 of Lace chart have been

neck: Dec row (RS) Work in patt to m, sl m,

worked 4 times from shoulder m—piece

ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

5½"

14 (16¾)"

Notes This kimono is worked back and forth in two separate pieces, which are seamed together

9¼"

9½"

at the center back. Slip stitches at beginning of right-side rows knitwise with yarn in back; slip stitches at beginning of wrong-side rows purlwise with

16¾ (19½ )"

right side

left side

yarn in front. 19"

Stitches Twisted Rib: (odd number of sts)

13 (16)"

Row 1 (RS) P1, *k1tbl, p1; rep from * to end. 15¾ (18¾)"

72

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Gauge 15 sts and 19 rows = 4" in patt Tools

Tropical

row every 4th row 18 more times—95 (111) sts

Remove waste yarn from provisional CO and

rem. Work 3 rows even, ending with Row 18 of

with RS facing, place 108 (124) sts on empty

chart. Dec row (RS) Work in patt to m, sl m,

needle with side edge at needle tip. Sl 3 I-cord

k3tog (removing m), yo, [k2tog, yo] 4 times, k6,

sts to needle holding provisional CO sts. BO all

sl m, work in patt to end—94 (110) sts rem.

sts as before—3 I-cord sts rem. Fold right side

Work 1 WS row even, ending with Row 20 of

at shoulder m in same way. With RS facing,

chart—armhole measures about 9½" from m.

place 94 (110) held right side sts on empty

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

Place removable m at armhole edge to mark

needle with side edge at needle tip. Remove

terms you don’t know.

shoulder. Front: Cont in patt as established

waste yarn from provisional CO and with RS

until Rows 1–20 of Lace chart have been

facing, place 108 (124) right side sts on same

Notes

worked 4 times from shoulder m—piece

needle, beg with side edge and ending with

This scarf is worked back and forth. A circular

measures about 9½" from shoulder m. Place

center back edge at needle tip. Sl 3 I-cord sts

needle is used to accommodate the large

removable m at armhole edge to mark beg of

to needle holding right side sts. BO all sts as

number of stitches.

sleeve shaping. Shape sleeve: Dec row (RS)

before—3 I-cord sts rem. Break yarn, leaving a

Work in patt to 2 sts before last m, k2tog, sl m,

6" tail and draw tail through live sts.

• Size 6 (4 mm): 40" circular (cir) needle • Markers (m) • Tapestry needle

Scarf Using the backward-loop method, CO 319 sts.

work in patt to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every 10th row 4 more times—89 (105) sts rem.

Finishing

Work 7 rows even, ending with Row 8 of chart.

Sew center back seam, beg from I-cord and

(pm), k49, pm, k50.

Dec row (RS) Work in patt to just before last

ending at first neck dec. Sew side seams, beg

ssk of last chart rep, work sssk instead

from I-cord and ending at removable sleeve m.

Row 1 (RS) Knit. Row 2 (WS) *K1, wrapping yarn 2 times around

(removing m), sl m, work in patt to end—88

Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

Do not join. Next row (WS) K220, place marker

s

then work Rows 1–20 of chart 5 more times.

Noriko Ho works as an optometrist by day

Next row (RS) Work in patt to m, sl m, knit to

and knitwear designer by night. She can be found online at www.norichanknits.com and on Ravelry as norichan.

last m, removing chart m as you come to them, sl m, work in patt to end. Next row (WS) Work

right needle; rep from * to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, **k1, wrapping yarn 2 times around

(104) sts rem. Work through Row 20 of chart,

right needle; rep from ** to end.

Row 3 Knit to m, dropping extra wraps, sl m, knit to m, sl m, knit to end, dropping extra wraps.

Row 4 Knit to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, knit

in patt to m, remove m, purl to last m, remove

to end.

m, work in patt to end, then using the cable

Row 5 Knit. Row 6 *K1, wrapping yarn 4 times around right

method, CO 3 sts for I-cord edging. I-cord edging: Use the I-cord method to BO sts, and at the same time, join left and right sides as

needle; rep from * to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m,

foll: *K2, k2tog tbl, sl 3 sts just worked back to

**k1, wrapping yarn 4 times around right

left needle; rep from * to last 4 sts (3 I-cord sts

needle; rep from ** to end.

Row 7 Knit to m, dropping extra wraps, sl m,

and 1 left side st rem), k2, k2tog tbl—3 I-cord

knit to m, sl m, knit to end, dropping extra

sts rem. Fold left side at shoulder m, with RS

wraps.

facing out and being careful not to twist.

Row 8 Knit to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, knit k on RS; p on WS

to end.

ssk

Rep Rows 1–8 five more times, then work

k2tog

Rows 1–4 once more. With RS facing, loosely

yo

BO all sts to m, then break yarn, leaving a 3' tail. Using tail as working yarn, BO 2 sts, pull yarn tail through last BO st, *drop 1 st from left

Lace

needle and ravel to CO edge, [bring yarn forward over right needle] 2 times, k1, pull

19 17 15 13

yarn through last st, drop next 2 sts and ravel

IPOMOE A SCARF

to CO edge, [bring yarn forward over right

A my Pa lm e r

needle] 3 times, k1, pull yarn through last st; rep from * 8 more times. Drop all loops from

page 3 3

right needle. Rejoin yarn from ball and BO all

11

rem sts.

9 7

C l a s s i c E l i t e Ya r n s C e r r o

3 1 16 sts

74

www.knitscene.com

Finishing Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

5

Size 10½" wide and 111" long Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Cerro (85% cotton, 15% alpaca; 150 yd [137 m]/50 g): • #7147 denim, 4 skeins

s

Amy Palmer finally remembered to add a bio, depriving her assistant editor of the joy of making up things this time.


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*4#/t$"/


Tropical

This helps anchor the tall stitch from the

needle. Knit 1 rnd. Change to smaller needle.

larger needle round and keeps the join of

Purl 1 rnd.

round neater.

All sizes:

When binding off stitches for the hem and

Next rnd K41 (45, 48, 52, 57), pm, k33 (40, 42,

sleeve cap, and subsequently casting on

55, 60), pm, k81 (90, 95, 105, 114), pm, k33 (40,

stitches for underarm, do so as loosely as

42, 55, 60), pm, k41 (45, 47, 52, 57). Knit 0 (1, 2,

possible.

0, 0) rnd(s). Next rnd [Knit to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m] 2 times, knit to end. Next rnd Knit. Next

Stitches Condo Patt for Swatching:

ARUNDINA TEE J e s i e O s t e r m ill e r page 35

rnd [Knit to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m] 2 times, knit to end. Shape armholes: Next rnd [Knit

Row 1 (WS) With smaller needle, purl. Row 2 Knit. Rows 3–8 Rep Rows 1 and 2 three times. Row 9 Knit. Row 10 Change to larger needle; knit. Row 11 Change to smaller needle; knit. Row 12 Knit. Row 13 Purl. Rows 14–19 Rep Rows 12 and 13 three times. Row 20 Purl. Row 21 Change to larger needle; purl. Row 22 Change to smaller needle; purl. Rep Rows 1–22 for patt.

to m, remove m, loosely BO 33 (40, 42, 55, 60) sts, removing m] 2 times, knit to end—163 (180, 190, 209, 228) body sts rem.

Body Next rnd K41 (45, 48, 52, 57), turn, then using the knitted method, loosely CO 14 (15, 19, 19, 20) sts, turn, k81 (90, 95, 105, 114), turn, CO 14 (15, 19, 19, 20) sts, turn, k41 (45, 47, 52, 57)—191 (210, 228, 247, 268) sts. Knit 2 (2, 2, 1, 2) rnd(s). *Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger needle. Knit 1 rnd. Change to smaller needle. Purl 1 rnd. Knit 8 rnds; rep from * once more. Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger needle. Knit 1 rnd.

P ly m o u t h Ya r n C o m p a ny D r i f t o n e

Yoke

Change to smaller needle. Next rnd P48 (53,

With smaller needle, CO 110 (114, 120, 122,

57, 62, 67), pm, p96 (105, 114, 124, 134), pm,

Sizes 36½ (40, 43½, 47, 51)" bust circumfer-

124) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd.

p48 (52, 57, 62, 67). Dec rnd *Knit to 4 sts

ence; shown in size 36½", modeled with 3½" of positive ease Yarn Plymouth Yarn Company Driftone (100% mercerized cotton; 142 yd [130 m]/50 g): • #0008 Red tone, 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) skeins Gauge 21 sts and 23 rows = 4" in Condo patt on smaller and larger needles

Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Inc rnd *K2,

before m, k2tog, k2, sl m, k2, ssk; rep from *

yo; rep from * to end—165 (171, 180, 183, 186)

once more, knit to end—4 sts dec’d. Knit 7

sts. Knit 7 (8, 9, 6, 7) rnds. Purl 1 rnd. Change

rnds. Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger needle. Knit

to larger needle. Knit 1 rnd. Change to smaller

1 rnd. Change to smaller needle. Purl 1 rnd.

needle. Purl 1 rnd. Inc rnd (see Notes) *K3 (3, 3,

Rep Dec rnd—4 sts dec’d. Knit 7 rnds. Rep last

2, 2), yo; rep from * to last 0 (0, 0, 1, 0) st, k0 (0,

11 rnds 4 more times—167 (186, 204, 223, 244)

0, 1, 0)—220 (228, 240, 274, 279) sts. Knit 7 (8,

sts rem. Knit 0 (0, 4, 5, 4) rnds. [Purl 1 rnd, knit

Tools

9, 6, 7) rnds. Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger

1 rnd] 2 times. Purl 1 rnd. Loosely BO all sts.

• Size 5 (3.75 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle • Size 19 (15 mm): 24" cir needle • Markers (m)

needle. Knit 1 rnd. Change to smaller needle. Purl 1 rnd. Inc rnd *K24 (7, 7, 6, 4), yo; rep from

Finishing

* to last 4 (4, 2, 4, 3) sts, k4 (4, 2, 4, 3)—229

Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

s

(260, 274, 319, 348) sts. Knit 7 (8, 9, 6, 7) rnds. See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger needle. Knit 1 rnd.

terms you don’t know.

Change to smaller needle. Purl 1 rnd.

Sizes 47 (51)" only: Notes

Knit 6 (7) rnds. Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger

Jesie Ostermiller is a designer who lives in Logan, Utah, with her husband, her two little boys, and her ever-growing yarn stash. She can be found on Ravelry as knittyjo.

This pullover is worked in the round from the top down. The capped sleeves are formed by

21 (21¾, 22¾, 23¼, 23½)"

binding off yoke stitches and casting on stitches for the underarm. The Condo pattern for swatching (see Stitches)

6¾ (7¼, 7¾, 7¾, 8½)"

is worked flat. When the Increase round on yoke is worked two

9 (10½, 11½, 14, 15¼)"

rounds after a larger needle round, work the first stitch of the Increase round as follows:

body

insert tip of right needle into stitch below first stitch on left needle, right below purl

36½ (40, 43½, 47, 51)"

bump, and knit it together with stitch above.

31¾ (35½, 38¾, 42½, 46½)"

76

www.knitscene.com

16½ (16½, 17¼, 17¼, 17¼)"


Key

MC

CC1

CC2

CC3

G

19

F

18 17

I

16 15 14 13 12 11

F body E

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3

D C

2 1

B

3 2 1 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4

A

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Finishing

Indigo

• Markers (m) • Tapestry needle • ¾" wide elastic 1" longer than waist circumference

Block skirt to measurements. Thread elastic through waistband, overlapping ends by 1". Sew ends of elastic tog securely. Remove 4 CO sts from holder and sew them to the 4 sts knit

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

on the joining rnd to complete the waistband

terms you don’t know.

casing. Weave in ends.

Notes

Jessica Anderson can be found knitting when she isn’t on an adventure with her husband and five children. To read more about her knitting and busy life, you can find her at www.allinadaysfun.blogspot.com.

This skirt is worked in the round from the top down.

Skirt

s

Waistband casing: With smaller needle and using a provisional method, CO 156 (180, 204, 228, 252) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Knit 16 rnds. Purl 1 rnd (for turning ridge). Knit 16 rnds. Remove waste yarn from

MERE SK IRT

provisional CO and place 156 (180, 204, 228, 252) sts onto spare cir needle. Fold waistband

Jessica Anderson page 4 2

in half at turning ridge with WS tog and hold spare needle behind working needle. Next rnd *K2tog (1 st from working needle and 1 st from spare needle); rep from * until 4 sts rem on

Q u i n c e & C o. S p a r r o w

each needle. Place 4 sts from spare needle on holder and k4 from working needle. Knit 14

Sizes 26 (30, 34, 38, 42)" waist circumfer-

rnds. Next rnd [K26 (30, 34, 38, 42), pm] 6

ence and 21 (22, 23, 24, 24½)" long; shown in size 30" Yarn Quince & Co. Sparrow (100% organic linen; 168 yd [155 m]/50 g): • #220 fundi, 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) skeins Gauge 24 sts and 36 rnds = 4" in St st on smaller needle

times, using rnd m as last m. Inc rnd [K1, M1R, knit to 1 st before m, M1L, k1, sl m] 6 times—12 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 9 (11, 13, 12, 13)th rnd 11 (10, 9, 10, 10) more times—300 (312, 324, 360, 384) sts. Next rnd Knit, inc 0 (3, 6, 0, 6) sts evenly across—300 (315, 330, 360, 390) sts. Work even until piece measures 17 (18,

Tools

19, 20, 20½)" from turning ridge. Change to

• Size 2 (2.75 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle • Size 6 (4 mm): 32" cir needle • Spare size 2 (2.75 mm) cir needle, at least 32" long

larger needle. Work Rnds 1–10 of Lace chart 2

ROGUE WAVE SOCK S Kate Atherley page 4 5

times. Next rnd BO all sts as foll: *P2tog, sl st from right needle to left needle; rep from * to end. Break yarn and pull through rem st.

HiKoo CoBaSi

Lace 9

26 (30, 34, 38, 42)"

7

21 (22, 23, 24, 24½)"

5 3 1

skirt

15 st repeat

knit yo k2tog 55 (57¾, 60½, 66, 71½)"

ssk pattern repeat

78

www.knitscene.com

Sizes 6½ (7, 7½, 8)" foot circumference and 7¾ (8¼, 8¾, 9¼)" long from back of heel to tip of toe; foot length is adjustable; shown in size 7" Yarn HiKoo CoBaSi (55% cotton, 21% elastic nylon, 16% bamboo, 8% silk; 220 yd [201 m]/50 g): • #11 indigo, 2 skeins Yarn distributed by Skacel Gauge 33 sts and 52 rnds = 4" in St st, unstretched; 44 sts and 52 rnds = 4" in charted patt, unstretched Tools • Size 1½ (2.5 mm) needles • Markers (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle


See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

k on RS; p on WS

terms you don’t know.

Indigo

p on RS; k on WS

Notes pattern repeat

These socks are worked in the round from the cuff down.

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k2, p1 from cn

Due to the stretchy nature of the yarn, this sock is worked with more negative ease than

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p1, k2 from cn

usual. Choose a size that is about 1½"

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, p2 from cn

smaller than your foot circumference.

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, k2 from cn

Left Sock

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn

Cuff: Using the old Norwegian method, CO 70

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn

(70, 80, 90) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work Rows 1–20 of Crashing Waves

Crashing Waves Left

Left chart 3 times, then work Rows 1–11 once

Crashing Waves Right

more. Heel flap: Note: Heel flap is worked back and forth over last 2 sts and first 31 (31,

19

19

31, 41) sts of rnd; rem 37 (37, 47, 47) sts of rnd

17

17

15

15

13

13

Row 2 (WS) Sl 1 kwise wyb, work in patt to beg-

11

11

of-rnd m, remove m, k2, turn—33 (33, 33, 43)

9

9

7

7

5

5

3

3

will be worked later for instep.

Row 1 (RS) Work 30 (30, 30, 40) sts in patt, p1, turn.

heel sts.

Row 3 Sl 1 pwise wyf, work in patt to end. Row 4 Sl 1 kwise wyb, work in patt to end. Rep last 2 rows 12 (13, 14, 15) more times. Turn heel:

1

1

Short-row 1 (RS) K22 (22, 23, 29), ssk, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p11 (11, 13, 15),

10 st repeat

10 st repeat

st 2

p2tog, turn.

Short-row 3 Sl 1 kwise wyb, k11 (11, 13, 15), ssk, turn. Short-row 4 Sl 1 pwise wyf, p11 (11, 13, 15),

than desired finished length. Toe: Set-up rnd

Rows 1–20 of Crashing Waves Right chart 3

Knit to m, work instep sts in patt, working a

times, then work Rows 1–11 once more. Heel

k2tog on each pair of knit sts in cable patt,

flap: Note: Heel flap is worked back and forth

Rep last 2 short-rows 8 (8, 7, 11) more

knit to end—56 (60, 64, 68) sts rem: 33 (33, 41,

over last 2 sts and first 31 (31, 31, 41) sts of rnd;

times—13 (13, 15, 17) heel sts rem. Shape

41) sts for instep, 23 (27, 23, 27) sts for sole.

rem 37 (37, 47, 47) sts of rnd will be worked

gusset: Set-up row (RS) K13 (13, 15, 17) heel

Sizes 6½ (7½, 8)" only:

sts, pick up and knit 14 (15, 16, 17) sts along

Next rnd [K8 (9, 10), k2tog] 2 (4, 2) times, knit to

later for instep. Row 1 (RS) Work 30 (30, 30, 40) sts in patt, p1,

side of heel flap, pick up and purl 2 sts

end—54 (60, 66) sts rem.

between heel flap and instep, using last

All sizes:

picked-up purl st as first st of cable cross, work Row 12 of chart over 38 (38, 48, 48) instep sts,

Set-up rnd [K7 (8, 8, 9), k2tog, pm] 6 times—48 (54, 54, 60) sts rem. Next rnd Knit. Dec rnd

pick up and purl 2 sts between instep and heel

[Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog] 6 times—6 sts

flap, pick up and knit 14 (15, 16, 17) sts along

dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every other rnd 3 (3, 3, 4)

heel sts. Row 3 Sl 1 pwise wyf, work in patt to end. Row 4 Sl 1 kwise wyb, work in patt to end.

side of heel flap, k6 (6, 7, 8) heel sts—82 (84,

more times—24 (30, 30, 30) sts rem. Rep Dec

Rep last 2 rows 12 (13, 14, 15) more times.

98, 102) sts total. Pm and join in the rnd. Next

rnd every rnd 3 (4, 4, 4) times—6 sts rem.

Turn heel:

work 41 (41, 51, 51) sts in patt (keeping first st

Finishing

Short-row 1 (RS) K22 (22, 23, 29), ssk, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p11 (11, 13, 15),

in rev St st), pm, [k1tbl] 14 (15, 16, 17) times,

Break yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Thread tail onto

knit to end. Dec rnd Knit to 2 sts before m,

tapestry needle and draw through rem sts. Pull

k2tog, sl m, work in patt to m, ssk, knit to

tight to gather sts and fasten off on WS. Weave

end—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every other rnd

in ends. Block.

turn. Short-row 4 Sl 1 pwise wyf, p11 (11, 13, 15),

41 (41, 51, 51) sts for instep, 23 (27, 23, 27) sts

Right Sock

Rep last 2 short-rows 8 (8, 7, 11) more times—13

for sole. Work even until foot measures 6¾ (7¼,

Cuff: Using the old Norwegian method, CO 70

(13, 15, 17) heel sts rem. Shape gusset: Set-up

7½, 8)" from back of heel, or 1 (1, 1¼, 1¼)" less

(70, 80, 90) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work

row (RS) K13 (13, 15, 17) heel sts, pick up and

p2tog, turn.

rnd K7 (7, 8, 9), [k1tbl] 14 (15, 16, 17) times, pm,

turn. Row 2 (WS) Sl 1 kwise wyb, work in patt to begof-rnd m, remove m, k2, turn—33 (33, 33, 43)

p2tog, turn. Short-row 3 Sl 1 kwise wyb, k11 (11, 13, 15), ssk,

p2tog, turn.

8 (7, 11, 11) more times—64 (68, 74, 78) sts rem:

Summer16 Knitscene

79


Row 2 (WS) P1, k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last

knit 14 (15, 16, 17) sts along side of heel flap, pick up and purl 2 sts between heel flap and

st, p1.

instep, beg with st 2 of chart, work Row 12 of

Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

final cable, sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front,

Back

pick up and purl 1 st between instep and heel

With smaller straight needles, CO 52 (60, 64,

flap, k2 from cn, pick up and purl 1 st between

68, 76, 80) sts. Work 8 rows in K2, P2 Rib (see

instep and heel flap, pick up and knit 14 (15, 16,

Stitches). Change to larger needles. Work

17) sts along side of heel flap, k6 (6, 7, 8) heel

Bubbles chart until piece measures 13" from

sts—82 (84, 98, 102) sts total. Pm and join in

CO. Place removable m at each edge of piece

the rnd. Next rnd K7 (7, 8, 9), [k1tbl] 14 (15, 16,

to indicate beg of armholes. Cont in patt until

17) times, pm, work 41 (41, 51, 51) sts in patt

armhole measures 5¾ (6¼, 6¾, 7¼, 7½, 8)"

(keeping first st in rev St st), pm, [k1tbl] 14 (15,

from m, ending with a WS row. Shape neck:

16, 17) times, knit to end. Dec rnd Knit to 2 sts

Next row (RS) Work 21 (24, 26, 27, 31, 32) sts in

before m, k2tog, sl m, work in patt to m, sl m,

patt, turn and place rem 31 (36, 38, 41, 45, 48)

ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd

sts on holder—21 (24, 26, 27, 31, 32) sts rem for

every other rnd 8 (7, 11, 11) more times—64 (68,

right shoulder. Right shoulder: Using the

74, 78) sts rem: 41 (41, 51, 51) sts for instep, 23

sloped method (see Stitches), at beg of WS

measures 6¾ (7¼, 7½, 8)" from back of heel, or

BUOYA NT SWE ATER

1 (1, 1¼, 1¼)" less than desired finished length.

A my G un d e r s o n

(27, 23, 27) sts for sole. Work even until foot

sts rem. Work 2 rows even—armhole measures about 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9¼, 9¾)" from m. BO all sts.

page 47

Toe: Set-up rnd Knit to m, work instep sts in

rows, BO 2 sts 3 times—15 (18, 20, 21, 25, 26)

Left shoulder: Return 31 (36, 38, 41, 45, 48)

patt, working a k2tog on each pair of knit sts in

held sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Next row (RS) BO 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16)

cable patt, knit to end—56 (60, 64, 68) sts rem: 33 (33, 41, 41) sts for instep, 23 (27, 23, 27) sts

Fibra Natura denims

sts, work in patt to end—21 (24, 26, 27, 31, 32) sts rem. Work 1 WS row even. At beg of RS

for sole.

Sizes 6½ (7½, 8)" only:

Sizes 33¾ (39, 41¾, 44¼, 49¾, 52¼)" bust

rows, BO 2 sts 3 times—15 (18, 20, 21, 25, 26)

Next rnd [Ssk, k8 (9, 10)] 2 (4, 2) times, knit to

sts rem. Work 1 WS row even. BO all sts.

(30, 30, 30) sts rem. Rep Dec rnd every rnd 3 (4,

circumference; shown in size 39", modeled with 7" of positive ease. Yarn Fibra Natura denims (70% cotton, 30% wool; 109 yd [100 m]/100 g): • #106 indigo dye, 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9) skeins Yarn distributed by Universal Yarn Gauge 12 sts and 18 rows = 4" in Bubbles patt on larger needles

4, 4) times—6 sts rem.

Tools

All sizes: Set-up rnd [Ssk, k7 (8, 8, 9), pm] 6 times—48 (54, 54, 60) sts rem. Next rnd Knit. Dec rnd [Ssk, knit to m] 6 times—6 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every other rnd 3 (3, 3, 4) more times—24

Finishing Break yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle and draw through rem sts. Pull tight to gather sts and fasten off on WS. Weave in ends. Block.

s

• Size 10½ (6.5 mm): straight needles • Size 8 (5 mm): straight and 24" circular (cir) needle • Markers (m) • Removable m • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

Front Work as for back until armhole measures 4½ (5, 5½, 6, 6¼, 6¾)" from m, ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work 21 (24, 26, 27, 31, 32) sts in patt and place rem 31 (36, 7¼ (8, 8, 8¾, 8¾, 9¼)" 5 (6, 6½, 7, 8¼, 8¾)"

3"

front & back

Kate Atherley is the author of the Interweave book Custom Socks: Knit to Fit Your Feet (2015). She’s also Knitty magazine’s managing technical editor, and loves knitting socks, especially in the summer, when it’s too warm to carry around a larger project. She can be found at www.kateatherley.com.

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes rate pieces and seamed.

Stitches Sloped Bind-Off: On last row before BO, sl last st pwise. BO row [Sl 1 pwise] 2 times, pass 2nd st over first to BO 1 st, BO rem sts as usual. K2, P2 Rib: (multiple of 4 sts)

Row 1 (RS) K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts,

80

p2, k1. www.knitscene.com

17¼ (20, 21¼, 22¾, 25¼, 26¾)"

This pullover is worked back and forth in sepa-

15 (16, 17, 18, 18½, 19½)"

sleeve

9¼ (9¼, 9¼, 10¾, 10¾, 10¾)"

20½ (21, 21½, 22, 22¼, 22¾)"

end—54 (60, 66) sts rem.

14 (14, 14, 14½, 14½, 14½)"

Indigo

chart over 35 (35, 45, 45) instep sts, to work


k on RS; p on WS

ssk

105, 115, 121) sts. Work 3 rows even. Next row

k on WS

k2tog

(RS) Work to last m, sl m, work 12 (14, 15, 17,

yo

pattern repeat

work to end—85 (91, 99, 107, 117, 123) sts. Work 11 rows even. Next row (RS) Work to m,

Bubbles

remove m and ravel next st, work to m, sl m, [work to m, remove and ravel next st] 2 times,

3

work to end—82 (88, 96, 104, 114, 120) sts rem. 1

Work 5 rows even. Next row (RS) [Work to m,

4 st repeat

remove m and ravel next st] 4 times, work to end—78 (84, 92, 100, 110, 116) sts rem. Work 3

38, 41, 45, 48) sts on holder—21 (24, 26, 27, 31,

rows even. Next row (RS) Work 56 (58, 59, 62,

32) sts rem for left shoulder. Left shoulder:

65, 66) sts, pm, M1, work to end—79 (85, 93,

Using the sloped method, at beg of WS rows,

101, 111, 117) sts. Work 5 rows even. Next row

BO 2 sts 3 times—15 (18, 20, 21, 25, 26) sts

(RS) Work 34 (36, 37, 40, 43, 44) sts, pm, M1,

rem. Work even until armhole measures same

work to end—80 (86, 94, 102, 112, 118) sts.

length as back from m, ending with a WS row.

Work 9 rows even. Next row (RS) [Work to m,

BO all sts. Right shoulder: Return 31 (36, 38,

remove m and ravel next st] 2 times, work to

facing, rejoin yarn. Next row (RS) BO 10 (12,

BAR ACHOIS TUNIC

12, 14, 14, 16) sts, work in patt to end—21 (24,

We n d y B e r n a r d

41, 45, 48) held sts to needle and, with RS

even until piece measures 16½ (16¾, 17, 17½, 17½, 18)" from CO, ending with a WS row.

page 4 8

26, 27, 31, 32) sts rem. Work 1 WS row even. At

end—78 (84, 92, 100, 110, 116) sts rem. Work

Shape armholes: Dec row (RS) K6, ssk, work to last 8 sts, k2tog, k6—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec

beg of RS rows, BO 2 sts 3 times—15 (18, 20,

row every RS row 1 (1, 3, 4, 5, 6) more

21, 25, 26) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures same length as back from m, ending

Shibui Knits Linen

time(s)—74 (80, 84, 90, 98, 102) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. Next row (RS) Work 25 (26, 27, 29, 32,

with a WS row. BO all sts.

Sizes 34½ (37½, 41, 44½, 49, 51½)" bust

33) sts, pm, M1, work 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18) sts, pm, M1, work to end—76 (82, 86, 92, 100, 104)

last st, M1, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every

circumference; shown in size 34½", modeled with 2" of positive ease Yarn Shibui Knits Linen (100% linen; 246 yd [225 m]/50 g): • #2016 suit, 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins Gauge 18 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st

4th (4th, 2nd, 4th, 2nd, 2nd) row 6 (9, 1, 10, 1, 3)

Tools

rem. Work 5 rows even. Next row (RS) [Work to

more time(s), then every 6 (0, 4, 0, 4, 4)th row 2

• Size 6 (4 mm) needles • Markers (m) • Tapestry needle • Two 7 mm wooden beads with sterling silver grommets • Eight 12 mm wooden beads—clockwise pansies (both beads from Artbeads.com)

m, remove m and ravel next st] 2 times, work

With smaller straight needles, CO 28 (28, 28, 32, 32, 32) sts. Work 16 rows in K2, P2 Rib. Change to larger needles. Work Bubbles chart for 4 rows. Inc row (RS) K1, M1, work in patt to

(0, 9, 0, 10, 9) times, working new sts into patt—46 (48, 50, 54, 56, 58) sts. Work even until piece measures 14 (14, 14, 14½, 14½, 14½)" from CO, ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

Finishing

sts. Work 5 rows even. Next row (RS) K19 (20, 21, 23, 25, 26), pm, M1, work to end—77 (83, 87, 93, 101, 105) sts. Work 9 rows even. Next row (RS) Work to 3rd m, remove m and ravel next st, work to end—76 (82, 86, 92, 100, 104) sts

to end—74 (80, 84, 90, 98, 102) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 6½ (6¾, 7, 7½, 8, 8)", ending with a RS row. Knit 10 rows. With WS facing, BO all sts kwise.

11½ (11¾, 11¾, 12, 11¾, 11¾)"

Block pieces to measurements. Sew shoulder terms you don’t know.

edging: With cir needle and RS facing, beg at right shoulder seam, pick up and knit 8 sts

Notes

along right back neck, 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16) sts

This tank is worked back and forth in separate

along back neck BO, 8 sts along left back neck,

pieces and seamed.

11 sts along left front neck, 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16) sts along front neck BO, and 11 sts along

Front

right front neck—58 (62, 62, 66, 66, 70) sts. Do

CO 78 (84, 92, 100, 110, 116) sts. Knit 10 rows,

not turn. BO all sts. Weave in ends.

s

ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) Knit.

Next row (WS) K6, purl to last 6 sts, k6. Rep

Amy Gunderson lives in North Carolina with

last 2 rows until piece measures 2" from CO,

her husband and their two ornery dogs. She designs for a variety of knit and crochet magazines and is the creative director for Universal Yarn.

ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) K10 (12, 13, 15, 18, 19), place marker (pm), M1, k8 (9, 10,

7½ (7¾, 8, 8½, 9, 9)"

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

between m. Sew sleeve and side seams. Neck

16½ (16¾, 17, 17½, 17½, 18)"

seams. Sew BO edge of sleeves to armholes

2½ (3, 3½, 4, 5, 5½)"

front & back

18¼ (19¾, 21½, 23¼, 25½, 26¾)"

Sleeves

17¼ (18¾, 20½, 22¼, 24½, 25¾)"

11, 12, 13), pm, M1, [k6, pm, M1] 2 times, k8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13), pm, M1, knit to end—83 (89, 97, Summer16 Knitscene

81

Indigo

19, 21) sts, pm, M1, work to last 10 sts, pm, M1,


Back

• #CW-790 columbine blossom, 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9) skeins Gauge 18 sts and 28 rnds = 4" in St st

pair of m. Shape afterthought armholes: Next rnd K1, yo, knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1,

Finishing

Tools

sl m, k1, yo, k6 (5, 7, 6, 8, 7, 7), then with waste

Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Sew

• Size 6 (4 mm): 16", 24", 40", and 60" circular (cir) needles and set of doublepointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m) • Tapestry needle • Waste yarn

yarn, k35 (38, 40, 43, 45, 48, 50) sts for armhole,

shoulder seam for about 2½ (3, 3½, 4, 5, 5½)" from each armhole edge, or desired shoulder width. Sew side seams, leaving 2" open at lower edge and 7½ (7¾, 8, 8½, 9, 9)" open at upper edge for armhole. Cord tie: Cut 2

sts: 45 (47, 51, 53, 57, 59, 61) sts between each

break waste yarn and slide armhole sts back to left needle, then with working yarn, knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m, [k1, yo, knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m] 3 times, k1, yo, k2, then with waste yarn, k35 (38, 40, 43, 45, 48, 50) sts for

strands of yarn, each 3½ (4, 4¼, 4½, 5, 5¼)

armhole, break waste yarn and slide armhole

yards long, and make a twisted cord. Slide

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

sts back to left needle, then with working

beads onto one end and tie in an overhand

terms you don’t know.

yarn, knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1—282 (294,

knot to secure. Add beads to other end and tie

318, 330, 354, 366, 378) sts: 47 (49, 53, 55, 59,

a knot to secure. Sew a loop of yarn to each

Notes

61, 63) sts between each pair of m. Next 2 rnds

side seam at waist and thread tie through

This vest is worked in the round from the center

[*K1, p1; rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, sl m,

loops.

s

Wendy Bernard is a knitwear designer and author of the Custom Knits series; Up, Down, All-Around Stitch Dictionary (STC Craft, 2014); and The Knitting All-Around Stitch Dictionary (STC Craft, 2016).

out. The armholes are worked using the

knit to m, sl m] 3 times. Inc rnd [K1, yo, knit to

afterthought method.

1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m] 6 times—12 sts

Cha nge to longer c i rc u la r need les when

inc’d. Rep last 3 rnds 11 (15, 18, 22, 25, 29, 33) more times—426 (486, 546, 606, 666, 726, 786)

necessary. Use a contrasting color marker for the beginning

sts: 71 (81, 91, 101, 111, 121, 131) sts between each pair of m. Next 2 rnds [K1, purl to 1 st

of the round.

before m, k1, sl m] 6 times. BO all sts kwise.

Body Finishing

With dpn, CO 6 sts. Place marker (pm; see Notes) and join in the rnd. Next rnd [K1f&b] 6

Armhole edging: With 16" cir needle and

times—12 sts. Next rnd Knit. Next rnd [K1f&b,

RS facing, sl 35 (38, 40, 43, 45, 48, 50) armhole

k1] 6 times—18 sts. Next rnd Knit. Next rnd

sts below waste yarn onto needle. Cont with

[(K1, yo) 2 times, k1] 6 times—30 sts. Next rnd

same end of needle, sl 35 (38, 40, 43, 45, 48,

[(K1, p1) 2 times, k1, pm, k5, pm] 3 times, using

50) sts above waste yarn onto needle—70 (76,

rnd m for last m. Next rnd [Work in rib patt to

80, 86, 90, 96, 100) sts. Remove waste yarn.

m, sl m, knit to m, sl m] 3 times. Inc rnd [K1, yo,

Rejoin working yarn, pm and join in the rnd.

knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m] 6 times—12

Purl 2 rnds. BO all sts kwise. Weave in ends,

sts inc’d. Next 2 rnds [*K1, p1; rep from * to 1 st

closing any gaps near armholes. Block.

s

before m, k1, sl m, knit to m, sl m] 3 times. Rep last 3 rnds 19 (20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27) more

Shaina Bilow is a knitting teacher from

times, changing to cir needle when necessary

northern New Jersey and can be found at www.ShainaBilow.com.

(see Notes)—270 (282, 306, 318, 342, 354, 366)

page 4 9

B r o w n S h e e p C o m p a ny C o t t o n Fl e e c e

Sizes 19¾ (20¾, 22½, 23½, 25¼, 26, 27)" back width; shown in size 20¾" on model with 32½" bust Yarn Brown Sheep Company Cotton Fleece (80% cotton, 20% merino wool; 215 yd [197 m]/100 g):

82

www.knitscene.com

7¾ (8½, 9, 9½, 10, 10¾, 11)"

16¼ (18¼, 20½, 22½, 24¾, 26¾, 29)"

S h a in a B il o w

13 (13, 15, 15, 16¾, 16¾, 17)"

6¾ (7½, 7¾, 8¾, 9, 9¾, 10)"

SOLITON VEST

7¼ (8¾, 10½, 12, 13¾, 15¼, 17)"

Indigo

Work as for front.

body 19¾ (20¾, 22½, 23½, 25¼, 26, 27)"

31½ (35¾, 40¼, 44¾, 49¼, 53¾, 58)"


Using the long-tail method, CO 49 (53, 57, 61,

87 (91, 95, 107, 111) sts. Next row (RS) Knit to

65) sts. Do not join. Next row (RS) Knit. Next

1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, k2, [knit

row (WS) P1, p1f&b, place marker (pm), p1f&b,

wrap tog with wrapped st, k1] 2 (2, 2, 3, 3)

purl to last 3 sts, p1f&b, pm, p1f&b, p1—53 (57,

times, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, p1,

61, 65, 69) sts: 3 front sts outside m at each

k2—89 (93, 97, 109, 113) sts: 12 (12, 12, 14, 14)

side and 47 (51, 55, 59, 63) back sts in center.

front sts outside m at each side and 65 (69, 73,

Shape left shoulder using short-rows as foll:

81, 85) back sts in center. Next row (WS) Purl

Short-row 1 (RS) K2, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, k4 (5, 6,

to 2 sts before m, p2tog, sl m, p1, p1f&b, purl

7, 8), wrap next st, turn—2 sts inc’d. Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to 2 sts before m, p1f&b,

st, purl to 2 sts before m, p1f&b, p1, remove m,

p1, sl m, p1, p1f&b, p2—2 sts inc’d. Short-row 3 K2, p1, k1, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, knit

place 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) rem left front sts on

to wrapped st, knit wrap tog with wrapped

13, 13) right front sts and 67 (71, 75, 83, 87)

st, k1, wrap next st, turn—2 sts inc’d.

back sts. Next row (RS) K2, p1, knit to 3 sts

Yo ko Jo hn s t o n

holder—78 (82, 86, 96, 100) sts rem: 11 (11, 11,

Short-row 4 Purl to 2 sts before m, p1f&b, p1, sl

before m, p1, k2, remove m, place 11 (11, 11,

m, p1, p1f&b, wrap next st, turn—2 sts inc’d.

13, 13) rem right front sts on holder—67 (71,

Short-row 5 K2, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, knit to

SEICHE TA NK

to wrapped st, purl wrap tog with wrapped

75, 83, 87) back sts rem; back measures ¾"

wrapped st, knit wrap tog with wrapped st,

from CO in center, and 1½ (1½, 1½, 1¾, 1¾)"

k1, wrap next st, turn—2 sts inc’d.

from needle to CO edge at deepest point,

Rep last 2 short-rows 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) more time(s)

measured straight up along a single column

—67 (71, 75, 83, 87) sts. Rep Short-row 4 once

of sts. Mark each end of last row completed

more—69 (73, 77, 85, 89) sts; with RS facing, 11 (11, 11, 13, 13) left front sts before first m, 55

with removable m to indicate top of armhole. Note: At this point there will be two k2

(59, 63, 69, 73) back sts between m, and 3 right

columns flanked by yos extending from CO to

front sts after second m. Next row (RS) K2, yo,

each end of back sts on needle; these columns

Sizes 31¼ (34¼, 37¾, 40¾, 44¼)" bust

k1, sl m, k1, yo, knit to wrapped st, knit wrap

are shoulder lines of garment that reach from

circumference; shown in size 34¼", modeled with 2¼" of positive ease Yarn Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy (41% cotton, 34% hemp, 25% rayon; 153 yd [140 m]/50 g): • #61 kingfisher blue, 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) balls Yarn distributed by Knitting Fever Gauge 22 sts and 30 rows = 4" in St st

tog with wrapped st, knit to 1 st before m, yo,

neck edge to armhole edge.

page 5 0

E l s e b e t h L a v o l d He m p a t h y

Tools • Size 4 (3.5 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle • Markers (m) • Removable m • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle • Size E/4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook

k1, sl m, k1, yo, k2—73 (77, 81, 89, 93) sts: 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) left front sts, 57 (61, 65, 71, 75)

Back

back sts, 4 right front sts. Shape right shoulder

Next row (WS) Purl. Next row (RS) K2, p1, knit

using short-rows as foll:

to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Next row (WS) Purl. Rep

Short-row 1 (WS) P2, p1f&b, p1, sl m, p1, p1f&b,

last 2 rows 17 (16, 15, 16, 17) more times—arm-

p4 (5, 6, 7, 8), wrap next st, turn—2 sts inc’d.

Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, wrap next st, turn—2 sts inc’d.

Short-row 3 P1f&b, p1, sl m, p1, p1f&b, purl to wrapped st, purl wrap tog with wrapped st, p1, wrap next st, turn—2 sts inc’d.

hole measures 5 (4¾, 4½, 4¾, 5)" from removable m. Inc row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k2—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every RS row 7 (9, 11, 11, 13) more times—83 (91, 99, 107, 115) sts. Purl 1 WS row—armhole measures 7¼ (7½, 7¾, 8, 8¾)".

Rep last 2 short-rows 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) more times—

Break yarn. Place sts on holder.

8½ (9¼, 10, 10¾, 11½)"

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes

2 (2, 2, 2¼, 2¼)" ¾ (¾, ¾, 1, 1)" 5½ (5½, 5¾, 5¾, 5¾)"

7¼ (7½, 7¾, 8, 8¾)"

This tank is worked from the top down in one piece with short-row shoulder shaping. The upper fronts and back are worked flat until they are joined at the base of the armholes, then the lower body is worked in the round.

31¼ (34¼, 37¾, 40¾, 44¼)"

body

14½ (14½, 15½, 15½, 14½)"

The lace chart is worked both back and forth in rows and in the round. When working in the round, work every chart row as a rightside row.

43¾ (46½, 51, 53¾, 56¾)"

Summer16 Knitscene

83

Indigo

Yoke


Lace

Indigo

k on RS; p on WS

81

p on RS; k on WS

79 77

k1tbl on RS; p1tbl on WS

75 73

k2tog

71

ssk

69

yo

67

sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso

65

k3tog

61

63

59 57 55 53 51 49 47 45 43 41 39 37 35 33 31 29 27 25 23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 49 sts

84

www.knitscene.com


(RS) K2, p1, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, p1, M1R, p1,

before m, M1R, k1, sl m; rep from * once

Return 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) held left front sts to

k2—17 sts.

more — 4 s t s i nc’d, 2 s t s i n each s ide

needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Next

Size 37¾" only:

row (WS) P2tog, purl to end, working wraps

Next row (WS) Purl. Next row (RS) K2, p1,

section. Rnd 6 Knit to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, *knit

tog with wrapped sts—11 (11, 11, 13, 13) sts

M1L, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k2—2 sts

to m, sl m, k1tbl, knit to 1 st before m, k1tbl,

rem. Next row (RS) K2, p1, knit to last 3 sts, p1,

inc’d. Rep last 2 rows once more—19 sts. Next

k2. Next row Purl. Rep last 2 rows 15 (13, 12,

row (WS) P3, k1, purl to end. Next row (RS) K2,

Rep last 6 rnds 16 (16, 17, 17, 16) more times,

sl m; rep from * once more.

10, 9) more times. Inc row (RS) K2, p1, M1L,

p1, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, p1, M1R, p1, k2—

removing m on each side of center 49 front sts

knit to last 3 sts, p1, k2—1 st inc’d at neck

21 sts.

and working these sts in St st when chart is

edge. Rep Inc row every RS row 1 (3, 3, 6, 7)

Sizes 40¾ (44¼)" only:

complete—240 (256, 280, 296, 312) sts; 83 (91,

more time(s)—13 (15, 15, 20, 21) sts.

Next row (WS) Purl. Next row (RS) K2, p1,

99, 107, 115) sts each for front and back and 37

Size 31¼" only:

M1L, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k2—2 sts

(37, 41, 41, 41) sts in each marked side section;

Next row (WS) Purl to last 4 sts, k1, p3. Next row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, p1, knit to last 3 sts, p1,

inc’d. Next row P3, k1, purl to end. Next row

body measures 14 (14, 15, 15, 14)" from

K2, p1, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, p1, M1R, p1,

underarm. Border: Next rnd *P3, [k1tbl, p3] 20

k2—14 sts.

k2—24 (25) sts.

(22, 24, 26, 28) times, remove m, k1tbl, [p3,

Size 34¼" only:

All sizes:

k1tbl] 9 (9, 10, 10, 10) times,* remove m; rep

Next row (WS) Purl to last 4 sts, k1, p3. Next row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, p1, knit to last 3 sts,

from * to * once more, leaving end-of-rnd m in

Size 37¾" only:

Next row (WS) P3, p1tbl, k1, purl to end. Next row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, knit to last 5 sts, p1, k1tbl, M1R, p1, k2—16 (19, 23, 26, 27) sts. Next row P3, k1, p1tbl, k1, purl to end—armhole

*k3, k1tbl; rep from * to end—body measures

Next row (WS) Purl. Next row (RS) K2, p1,

measures 5½ (5½, 5¾, 5¾, 5¾)". Leave sts on

14½ (14½, 15½, 15½, 14½)". Loosely BO all sts.

M1L, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k2—2 sts

needle. Join fronts: Next row (RS) K2, p1,

inc’d; 1 st each at neck and armhole edges.

M1L, knit to last 6 sts, pm, p1, k1tbl, p1, k3,

Rep last 2 rows once more—19 sts. Next row

then using the knitted method, CO 37 sts,

Neck edging: With RS facing and crochet

(WS) Purl to last 4 sts, k1, p3. Next row (RS)

place left front sts on needle and k3, p1, k1tbl,

hook, join yarn at center back and work 1 rnd

K2, p1, M1L, p1, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1,

p1, pm, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k2—71 (77,

of single crochet (sc) as foll: work 1 sc in every

k2—21 sts.

85, 91, 93) sts total; 49 center sts between m.

st along back neck, 3 sc for every 4 rows down

Sizes 40¾ (44¼)" only:

Next row (WS) Purl to m, sl m, k1, p1tbl, k1,

left front neck, 1 sc for every st for CO st along

Next row (WS) Purl. Next row (RS) K2, p1,

purl to 3 sts before m, k1, p1tbl, k1, sl m, purl

center front, 3 sc for every 4 rows up right front

M1L, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k2—2 sts

to end. Next row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, knit to m,

neck and 1 sc in every st to center back.

inc’d; 1 st each at neck and armhole edges.

sl m, work Lace chart over 49 sts, sl m, knit to

Fasten off. Armhole edgings: With RS facing

Next row Purl to last 4 sts, k1, p3. Next row K2,

last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k2—2 sts inc’d. Next row

and crochet hook, join yarn at center of

p1, M1L, p1, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k2—24

Purl to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, purl to

underarm, work 1 rnd of sc around armhole

(25) sts.

end. Rep last 2 rows 5 (6, 6, 7, 10) more

edge as foll: 1 sc in every st for each CO st, 3 sc

All sizes:

times—83 (91, 99, 107, 115) sts; armhole

for every 4 rows up to shoulder line and down

Next row (WS) Purl to last 5 sts, k1, p1tbl, p3. Next row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, k1tbl, p1, knit to

measures about 7¼ (7½, 7¾, 8, 8¾)".

to underarm and 1 sc for each CO st. Fasten

last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k2—16 (19, 23, 26, 27) sts.

Body

Next row Purl to last 6 sts, k1, p1tbl, k1, p3—

Join front and back: Next row (RS) K2, p1,

armhole measures 5½ (5½, 5¾, 5¾, 5¾)". Break

knit to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, knit to

Yoko Johnston is a Japanese knitter now

yarn. Place sts on holder.

last 3 sts, p1, k2, pm, CO 3 (3, 5, 5, 7) sts, pm,

living in Australia with her husband and two children. Besides knitting, she teaches Japanese and plays table tennis.

M1R, p1, k2—17 sts.

Right Front Strap

k2, p1, knit to last 3 sts, p1, k2, pm, CO 3 (3, 5,

Return 11 (11, 11, 13, 13) held right front sts to

5, 7) sts—172 (188, 208, 224, 244) sts: 83 (91,

needle and, with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Next

99, 107, 115) sts each for front and back and 3

row (RS) K2, p1, knit to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Next row (WS) Purl. Rep last 2 rows 15 (13, 12, 10, 9) more times. Inc row (RS) K2, p1, knit to last 3

(3, 5, 5, 7) sts in each marked side section. Pm work chart to m, sl m, knit to end. Rep last rnd

sts, M1R, p1, k2—1 st inc’d at neck edge. Rep

2 more times. Cont chart patt as established,

Inc row every RS row 1 (3, 3, 6, 7) more time(s)

work slipstitch columns and body shaping

—13 (15, 15, 20, 21) sts.

inside marked side sections as foll:

Size 31¼" only:

Rnds 1–4 Knit to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, *knit to m, sl m, sl 1 pwise wyb, knit to 1 st

(RS) K2, p1, knit to last 4 sts, p1, M1R, p1,

before m, sl 1 pwise wyb, sl m; rep from *

Next row (WS) P3, k1, purl to end. Next row

s

and join in the rnd. Next rnd Knit to m, sl m,

Next row (WS) P3, k1, purl to end. Next row

Size 34¼" only:

Finishing

off. Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

return 83 (91, 99, 107, 115) back sts to needle,

k2—14 sts.

place. Next rnd *K3, k1tbl; rep from * to end. Next rnd *P3, k1tbl; rep from * to end. Next rnd

once more. Rnd 5 (Inc rnd) Knit to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, *knit to m, sl m, k1, M1L, knit to 1 st

Summer16 Knitscene

85

Indigo

Left Front Strap


The shoulder shaping is worked in stockinette

Rep last 2 short-rows 4 more times. Next row

short-rows below the lace yoke to avoid

(WS) K3, purl to end, working wraps tog with

interrupting the lace pattern.

wrapped sts—armhole measures 2½ (3, 3½, 4,

Indigo

During shaping, if there are not enough stitches

A NIL CARDIGA N

4½, 5)". Next row (RS) K1, work Row 1 of Lace

to work each decrease with its companion

chart over 49 (55, 61, 67, 73, 79) sts, k3.

yarnover, or each double decrease with both

Keeping front edge sts in garter st and

its yarnovers, work the remaining stitch(es)

selvedge st in St st, work Rows 2–24 of chart

in stockinette instead.

once—armhole measures 6 (6½, 7, 7½, 8, 8½)".

Body

Note: From here, rep Rows 17–24 of chart only. Next row (RS) BO 26 (32, 38, 38, 44, 50)

With smaller cir needle, CO 195 (219, 243, 267,

shoulder sts, work in patt to end (see

291, 315) sts. Do not join. Knit 6 rows, ending

Notes)—27 (27, 27, 33, 33, 33) sts rem. Collar

with a RS row. Change to larger cir needle.

extension: Work 1 WS row even. Next row

Next row (WS) K3, purl to last 3 sts, k3. Next row (RS) Knit. Rep last 2 rows until piece

(RS) CO 1 st for back neck selvedge st, knit

measures 15" from CO, ending with a WS row.

34, 34) sts. Keeping front edge sts in garter st

Divide for fronts and back: Next row (RS)

and selvedge st in St st, work even until collar

K52 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82) and place these sts on

extension measures 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5)" ending

holder for right front, k91 (103, 115, 127, 139, 151)

with a WS row. BO all sts.

new CO st, work in patt to end—28 (28, 28, 34,

and place these sts on holder for back, knit to

A my C hr i s t o f f e r s

end—52 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82) sts rem for left front.

page 51

Back Return 91 (103, 115, 127, 139, 151) held back sts

Berroco Indigo

Left Front

to larger cir needle and, with WS facing, rejoin

Next row (WS) K3 front edge sts, purl to end. Next row (RS) Using the backward-loop

selvedge st, purl to end—1 st inc’d. Next row

yarn. Next row (WS) CO 1 st for armhole

method, CO 1 st for armhole selvedge st, knit

(RS) CO 1 st for armhole selvedge st, knit to

Sizes 36½ (41, 46, 51, 55½, 60½)" bust

to end—53 (59, 65, 71, 77, 83) sts. Keeping

end—93 (105, 117, 129, 141, 153) sts. Work even

circumference, with fronts overlapped about 2½"; shown in size 41", modeled with 8½" of positive ease Yarn Berroco Indigo (95% cotton, 5% other; 219 yd [200 m]/100 g): • #6463 denim 5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 9) skeins Gauge 20 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle

front edge sts in garter st, and working

in St st until armhole measures 2¼ (2¾, 3¼,

selvedge st in St st, work even until armhole

3¾, 4¼, 4¾)", ending with a RS row. Shape

measures 2¼ (2¾, 3¼, 3¾, 4¼, 4¾)", ending with a RS row. Shape shoulder (see Notes)

shoulders using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (WS) Purl to last 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts,

using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (WS) K3, purl to last 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10)

wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to last 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts,

sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to end. Short-row 3 K3, purl to 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts before

wrap next st, turn. Short-row 3 Purl to 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts before

Tools • Size 7 (4.5 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 6 (4 mm): 32" cir needle and set of dpn • Stitch holders • Marker (m) • Tapestry needle

wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.

wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Knit to 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts before

Short-row 4 Knit to end.

wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.

8 (8, 8½, 10¾, 10¾, 10½)" 5¼ (6½, 7½, 7½, 8¾, 10)"

16¼ (16¼, 16¼, 16¼, 17, 17)"

4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5)"

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

1½"

terms you don’t know.

sleeve

6 (6½, 7, 7½, 8, 8½)"

Notes The body of this cardigan is worked back and

back

forth in one piece to the underarm, then divided for working the fronts and back

left front

15"

separately. Stitches for the sleeves are picked up around the armhole and the sleeves are worked in the round from the top down. A circular needle is used to accommodate the

10½ (11½, 12¾, 14, 15¼, 16½)"

large number of stitches. 18¼ (20½, 23, 25½, 27¾, 30¼)"

86

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8 (8¾, 10, 10¾, 10¾, 11½)"


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PHOTO CREDITS: JOE HANCOCK

Lark Cardigan


Lace

Indigo

23 21

k on RS; p on WS

19

yo

17

8 row repeat

15

k2tog on RS; p2tog on WS

13

ssk on RS; ssp on WS

11

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

9

pattern repeat

7 5 3 1 6 st repeat

Rep last 2 short-rows 4 more times. Next row

Collar extension: Work 1 RS row even. Next

(WS) Purl to end, working wraps tog with

row (WS) CO 1 st for back neck selvedge st,

wrapped sts. Next row (RS) Working rem wraps

purl new CO st, work in patt to end—28 (28,

tog with wrapped sts, k1, work Row 1 of Lace

28, 34, 34, 34) sts. Keeping front edge sts in

chart over 91 (103, 115, 127, 139, 151) sts, k1.

garter st and selvedge st in St st, work even

Keeping selvedge sts in St st, work Rows 2–24

until collar extension measures 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5)"

of chart once—armhole measures 6 (6½, 7, 7½,

ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

TINCTORI A TEE S a c hi ko B ur g in page 5 2

Mirasol Pima Kuri

Sizes 44½ (49½, 55½, 61, 66)" bust

Right Front

Sew shoulder seams. With larger dpn and RS

Return 52 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82) held sts to larger

facing, beg at center of underarm, pick up and

cir needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn.

knit 60 (64, 70, 74, 80, 84) sts evenly around

Next row (WS) CO 1 st for armhole selvedge st,

armhole edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Knit 10

purl to last 3 sts, k3—53 (59, 65, 71, 77, 83) sts.

(10, 10, 10, 8, 8) rnds. Dec rnd K1, k2tog, knit to

Keeping front edge sts in garter st, and

last 2 sts, ssk—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every

circumference; shown in size 44½", modeled with 12½" of positive ease Yarn Mirasol Pima Kuri (100% cotton; 208 yd [190 m]/100 g): • #02 Greenwood Lake, 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins Yarn distributed by Knitting Fever Gauge 16½ sts and 22 rows = 4" in St st on larger needles

working selvedge st in St st, work even until

10 (10, 10, 10, 8, 8)th rnd 9 (9, 9, 9, 12, 12) more

Tools

armhole measures 2¼ (2¾, 3¼, 3¾, 4¼, 4¾)",

times—40 (44, 50, 54, 54, 58) sts rem. Work

ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder using

even until piece measures 15¾ (15¾, 15¾, 15¾,

short-rows as foll:

16½, 16½)" from underarm. Change to smaller

Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to last 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts,

dpn. [Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd] 2 times, then purl 1

• Size 9 (5.5 mm) needles • Size 8 (5 mm): 16" circular (cir) needle • Markers (m) • Stitch holder • Tapestry needle

8, 8½)". BO all sts.

Sleeves

wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to last 3 sts, k3. Short-row 3 Knit to 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.

rnd—sleeve measures 16¼ (16¼, 16¼, 16¼, 17, 17)" from underarm. BO all sts.

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

Finishing

terms you don’t know.

Short-row 4 Purl to last 3 sts, k3.

Sew collar extensions tog at center back neck.

Rep last 2 short-rows 4 more times. Next row

Sew selvedge of collar along back neck edge,

Notes

(RS) Knit to end, working wraps tog with

easing to fit. Weave in ends. Block to

This top is worked back and forth in two sepa-

wrapped sts. Work 1 WS row. Next row (RS) K3,

measurements.

s

work Row 1 of Lace chart over 49 (55, 61, 67, 73, 79) sts, k1. Keeping front edge sts in garter st and selvedge st in St st, work Rows 2–24 of chart once—armhole measures 6 (6½, 7, 7½,

rate pieces from the bottom up and seamed. During shoulder shaping, when there are not

Amy Christoffers is savoryknitting on Ravelry and blogs at www.savoryknitting .com.

enough stitches to complete both a yarnover and its paired decrease, work these stitches in stockinette stitch instead.

8, 8½)". Note: Rep only Rows 17–24 of chart from here. Work 1 RS row. Next row (WS) BO

Back

26 (32, 38, 38, 44, 50) shoulder sts, work in

With larger needles, CO 92 (102, 114, 126, 136)

patt to end—27 (27, 27, 33, 33, 33) sts rem.

sts. Next row (WS) P2, k1, p1, knit to last 4 sts,

88

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p1, k1, p2. Next row (RS) K2, p1, knit to last 3

7¾ (8¼, 8¾, 9¾, 10¼)"

sts, p1, k2. Next row (WS) P2, k1, p1, place

7¼ (8¼, 9½, 10½, 11½)"

3"

marker (pm), k24, pm, k36 (46, 58, 70, 80), pm,

Indigo

k24, pm, p1, k1, p2. Next row (RS) K2, p1, k1,

1"

sl m, work Chart A over 24 sts, sl m, knit to m, 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9)"

sl m, work Chart A over 24 sts, sl m, k1, p1, k2. Cont in patt as established until Rows 1–8 of chart have been worked 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) times,

24 (24, 24, 25½, 25½)"

body

then substitute Chart B for Chart A and work

7½ (7, 6½, 7½, 7)"

Rows 1–28 of chart 3 times, then change back to Chart A and work until piece measures 28 (28, 28, 29½, 29½)" from CO, ending with a WS

13½"

row. Shape shoulders: BO 10 (11, 13, 14, 16) 4"

sts at beg of next 4 rows, then BO 10 (12, 13, 15, 15) sts at beg of next 2 rows—32 (34, 36,

22¼ (24¾, 27¾, 30½, 33)"

40, 42) sts rem. BO all sts.

Front Work as for back until Rows 1–8 of Chart A

Chart A k on RS; p on WS

have been worked 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) times, then substitute Chart B for Chart A and work

7

Rows 1–28 of chart 3 times, then change back

5

to Chart A and work until piece measures 21

k on WS

3

p1tbl on WS

1

yo

(21, 21, 22½, 22½)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work 34 (38, 24 sts

43, 47, 51) sts in patt and place these sts on

k2tog

holder for left shoulder, BO 24 (26, 28, 32, 34)

ssk

sts, work to end—34 (38, 43, 47, 51) sts rem for right shoulder. Right shoulder: Work 1 WS

Chart B

k3tog

row. Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, work to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 3 more

27

times—30 (34, 39, 43, 47) sts rem. Work even

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

25

until piece measures 24 (24, 24, 25½, 25½)" from CO, ending with a RS row. Shape

23

shoulder: At beg of WS rows, BO 10 (11, 13,

21

14, 16) sts 2 times, then BO 10 (12, 13, 15, 15)

19

sts once—no sts rem. Left shoulder: Return 17

34 (38, 43, 47, 51) sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work 1 WS row. Dec row

15

(RS) Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—1 st dec’d.

13

Rep Dec row every RS row 3 more times—30

11

(34, 39, 43, 47) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 24 (24, 24, 25½, 25½)" from CO,

9

ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder: At

7

beg of RS rows, BO 10 (11, 13, 14, 16) sts 2

5

times, then BO 10 (12, 13, 15, 15) sts once—

3

no sts rem.

1

Finishing

24 sts

Sew shoulder seams. Neckband: With RS facing and cir needle, beg at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 18 sts evenly along left

all sts in patt. Beg 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9)" down from

front neck edge, 24 (26, 28, 32, 34) sts along

shoulder seam, sew sides of back and front tog

center front BO sts, 18 sts along right front

for 7½ (7, 6½, 7½, 7)", ending 9½" above CO

neck edge, and 32 (34, 36, 40, 42) sts along

edge of front and 13½" above CO edge of back.

back neck—92 (96, 100, 108, 112) sts. Pm and

Weave in ends and block to measurements.

join in the rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib for 1½". BO

s

90

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Sachiko Burgin lives in Toronto, Canada, and works part-time at Romni Wools. Despite having a degree in jewelry and metalsmithing, these days she prefers to work with yarn.


TAKE YOUR favorite issues

WITH YOU


Back

Indigo

With straight needles, CO 122 (137, 152, 162,

St st until piece measures 20 (20, 20, 20¼, 20¼,

177, 192) sts. Work Rows 1–6 of Lace Edging

20¼)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Next

chart—101 (113, 125, 133, 145, 157) sts rem.

row (RS) K49 (55, 61, 65, 71, 77), pm, yo, pm,

Next row (RS) Knit. Next row Purl. Dec row

knit to end—99 (111, 123, 131, 143, 155) sts.

(RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k3tog, k2—98

Work 5 rows even in St st. Next row (RS) Knit

(110, 122, 130, 142, 154) sts rem. Work even in

to 2 sts before m, pm, yo, pm, k2, sl m, k1, sl m,

St st until piece measures 17 (17, 17, 17¼, 17¼,

k2, pm, yo, pm, knit to end—101 (113, 125, 133,

17¼)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Next

145, 157) sts. Work 5 rows even. Next row (RS)

row (RS) K49 (55, 61, 65, 71, 77), place marker

Knit to 2 sts before m, pm, yo, pm, [k2, sl m, k1,

(pm), yo, pm, knit to end—99 (111, 123, 131,

sl m] 3 times, k2, pm, yo, pm, knit to end—103

143, 155) sts. Work 5 rows even in St st. Next

(115, 127, 135, 147, 159) sts. Work even until

row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, pm, yo, pm, k2,

piece measures 23 (23½, 24, 24¾, 25¼, 25¾)"

sl m, k1, sl m, k2, pm, yo, pm, knit to end—101

from CO, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS)

(113, 125, 133, 145, 157) sts. Work 5 rows even. Next row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, pm, yo,

K28 (33, 37, 40, 45, 49), working each st

pm, [k2, sl m, k1, sl m] 3 times, k2, pm, yo, pm,

55, 57, 61) sts, knit to end—28 (33, 37, 40, 45,

knit to end—103 (115, 127, 135, 147, 159) sts.

49) sts rem each side. Place sts on holders.

between m as a Drop st, loosely BO 47 (49, 53,

BILL ABONG TEE

before m, pm, yo, pm, [k2, sl m, k1, sl m] 5

Finishing

Em m a We l f or d

times, k2, pm, yo, pm, knit to end—105 (117,

Weave in ends. Block pieces to measurements.

129, 137, 149, 161) sts. Work 5 rows even. Next

With RS tog, join shoulders using three-needle

row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, pm, yo, pm,

BO. Sew side seams, leaving a 6 (6½, 7, 7½, 8,

page 5 3

Ro w a n Pa n a m a

Work 5 rows even. Next row (RS) Knit to 2 sts

[k2, sl m, k1, sl m] 7 times, k2, pm, yo, pm, knit

8½)" opening for armhole. Armhole edging:

to end—107 (119, 131, 139, 151, 163) sts. Work

With dpn and RS facing, beg at center of

even until piece measures 23 (23½, 24, 24¾,

underarm, pick up and knit 60 (65, 70, 75, 80,

Sizes 33½ (37½, 41½, 44½, 48½, 52½)"

25¼, 25¾)" from CO, ending with a WS row.

85) sts evenly spaced around armhole edge.

bust circumference; shown in size 33½", modeled with 1" of positive ease Yarn Rowan Panama (55% viscose, 33% cotton, 12% linen; 148 yd [135 m]/ 50 g): • #323 cornflower, 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) balls Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers Gauge 24 sts and 32 rows = 4" in St st

Next row (RS) K28 (33, 37, 40, 45, 49), working

Pm and join in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1 rnd.

each st between m as a Drop st (see Stitches),

Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts pwise.

end—28 (33, 37, 40, 45, 49) sts rem each side. Place sts on holders.

With straight needles, CO 122 (137, 152, 162, 177, 192) sts. Work Rows 1–6 of Lace Edging

• Size 5 (3.75 mm): straight needles and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

chart—101 (113, 125, 133, 145, 157) sts rem.

k on WS

(RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k3tog, k2—98

k1tbl

(110, 122, 130, 142, 154) sts rem. Work even in

yo (p1, yo, k1tbl) in same st

Stitches Drop Stitch: Remove m, drop st off left needle and ravel it down to yo, remove m, insert tip of left needle from front to back under top-most ladder of dropped st; treat this loop as a regular st for BO.

4¾ (5½, 6¼, 6¾, 7½, 8¼)" 6 (6½, 7, 7½, 8, 8½)"

pieces and seamed.

10½ (11, 11½, 12, 12½, 13)"

www.knitscene.com

k5, pass 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th sts over first

pattern repeat

front & back

Lace Edging 5 3 5

16¾ (18¾, 20¾, 22¼, 24¼, 26¼)"

92

5

no stitch 17 (17, 17, 17¼, 17¼, 17¼)"

This top is worked back and forth in separate

k on RS; p on WS

Next row (RS) Knit. Next row Purl. Dec row

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

Notes

Emma Welford is a knitwear designer from western Massachusetts. Find her online at www.emmawelford.com.

Front

Tools

terms you don’t know.

s

loosely BO 51 (53, 57, 59, 61, 65) sts, knit to

5 st to 4 st repeat

1


Yarn Jade Sapphire Khata (50% yak,

Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Purl 1

50% silk; 700 yd [640 m]/100 g): • #K3 heavenly lake, 1 skein Gauge 22 sts and 28 rnds = 4" in patt

rnd. Knit 8 rnds. Work Rnds 1 and 2 of

Tools

of Elongated St Band. Knit 5 rnds. Inc rnd K2,

• Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" and 24" circular (cir) needles • Marker (m) • Tapestry needle

*M1L, k5; rep from * to last 2 sts, M1L, k2—125

Rep last 9 rnds 2 more times. Work Rnds 1 and 2

sts. Knit 1 rnd. Work Rnds 1 and 2 of Elongated St Band. Knit 7 rnds. Rep last 9 rnds once more. Work Rnds 1 and 2 of Elongated St Band. Knit 6 rnds. Inc rnd K2, *M1L, k6; rep from * to

See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

last 3 sts, M1L, k3—146 sts. Work Rnds 1 and 2

terms you don’t know.

of Elongated St Band. Knit 7 rnds. Work Rnds 1 and 2 of Elongated St Band. Knit 6 rnds. Inc

Notes

rnd K3, *M1L, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, M1L,

This cowl is worked in the round from the

k2—194 sts. Work Rnds 1 and 2 of Elongated

top down.

St Band. Knit 7 rnds. Rep last 9 rnds 3 more

Change to longer circular needle when necessary.

ATOLL COWL

times. BO all sts as foll: K1, *transfer 1 st from right needle to left needle, k2tog tbl; rep from * to end.

J e n n Em e r s o n page 5 4

Stitches Elongated Stitch Band:

Finishing

Rnd 1 *K1, wrapping yarn 3 times around right

Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

s

needle instead of once; rep from * to end.

Rnd 2 *K1, dropping all 3 wraps as st is removed Jade Sapphire Khata

from left needle; rep from * to end.

Size 19" circumference at top, 34¼"

Cowl

circumference at bottom, and 17¾" tall

With shorter cir needle (see Notes), CO 104 sts.

Jenn Emerson is a knitwear designer living in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Her designs focus on classic silhouettes with a modern twist. She can be found on Ravelry as JennEmerson.

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Indigo

Elongated St Band (see Stitches). Knit 7 rnds.


Yarn n

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Lion Brand Yarn Outlet—Carlstadt www.LionBrand.com/outlet.html 50% off first quality discontinued colors and weekly surprise specials up to 75% off. 140 Kero Rd. (201) 939-0611

New York Lion Brand Yarn Studio—New York www.lionbrandyarnstudio.com Wide selection of Lion Brand yarns, free knit and crochet demonstrations, classes, and special events. 34 W. 15th St. (212) 243-9070

Yarn Culture—Fairport www.yarnculture.com Artisan yarn from around the world including Rosy Green Wool, The Uncommon Thread, Eden Cottage Yarns, Woolfolk and more. 1387 Fairport Rd., Ste. 885 (585) 678-4894

Interweave Shop Listing ads work! Knotty Lady Yarns, located in beautiful downtown Roseburg, is a good example.

”We have had a lot of new customers stop by and mention that they saw the listing in one of the Interweave knitting or crochet magazines. You should give it a try!” —Kelley, Knotty Lady Yarns shop owner, www.knottyladyyarns.com 94

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Shop Often—Shop Your Local Retailer! Knotty Lady Yarns LLC—Roseburg

NW Handspun Yarns—Bellingham

www.KnottyLadyYarns.com The premier location for your fiber needs in Western Oregon. The best stocked, fairest prices & most comprehensive teaching facility. 632 S.E. Jackson St. (541) 673-2199

www.NWHandspunYarns.com Quality yarns, books, equipment, supplies for the knitter, spinner, and weaver. Classes and gifts. Open Tuesday–Sunday. 1401 Commercial St. (360) 738-0167

Pennsylvania Gosh Yarn It!—Kingston www.goshyarnitshop.com A beautiful yarn boutique in Northeastern PA. Visit us for fine yarn, patterns, notions, and knitting & crochet classes. 303 Market St. (570) 287-9999

Debbie Macomber’s A Good Yarn Shop—Port Orchard www.agoodyarnshop.com We carry a wide range of yarn, books, notions, and offer classes for all levels of knitting and crochet. 1140 Bethel Ave., Ste. 101 (360) 876-0377

Wisconsin Tennessee Smoky Mountain Spinnery —Gatlinburg www.smokymountainspinnery.com nancy@smokymountainspinnery.com Visit our recently expanded 3000 square foot showroom and studio space. Equipment and supplies for spinning, weaving, knitting, crocheting, rug hooking, dyeing and felting. Classes, demonstrations, antiques and gifts 466 Brookside Village Way, Ste 8 (865) 436-9080

Utah Wasatch and Wool Yarns —Park City www.wasatchandwool.com An intimate, boutique experience for locals and visitors who are knitting and fiber enthusiasts. We specialize in high quality yarns from around the world. 1635 W. Redstone Center Dr. G130 (435) 575-0999

The Dragonfly Yarn Shop —Janesville www.dragonflyyarnshop.com Wool and luxury fibers. Addi and Crystal Palace needles. Lessons by the hour. Home of the Pirouette! 1327 N. Wright Rd., Ste. 5A (608) 757-9228

Knitcircus Studio and Store —Madison www.knitcircus.com knitcircus@gmail.com A showcase for Knitcircus handpainted gradient and kettle-dyed yarns with rotating independent-dyer trunk shows and a carefully curated selection of local handcrafts. 634 Grand Canyon Dr. (608) 841-1421

Canada–Ontario DocKnits—Port Elgin

Vermont

www.docknits.ca docknits@eastlink.ca Canadian store and online yarn shopping at its best! 651 Goderich St. (226) 453-5648

Northeast Fiber Arts Center —Williston

Classifieds

www.northeastfiberarts.com The candy store for knitters, felters and spinners. Featuring quality yarns & fibers from around the world & from Vermont! Plus we stock felting fibers, needle felting kits, sell wheels & offer classes. 7531 Williston Rd. (802) 288-8081

WWW.WOOL2DYE4.COM Exclusive line of undyed yarns for hand-dyers. Make your work stand out! Wholesale inquiries welcome. Yarnie@Wool2Dye4.com.

Virginia Yarn Cloud—Occoquan “where nature meets imagination” www.yarncloud.com Yarn Cloud specializes in yummy knitting, crochet & tatting yarns, notions and classes. NEW LOCATION! 204 Washington St. (703) 763-3285

Yarns

The Web Connection Online Store Abundant Yarn Online www.abundant-yarn.com (866) 873-0580 We carry Cascade Yarns.Customer service is our priority!

Shops/Mail Order Woobee KnitShop www.woobeeknitshop.net (307) 760-2092 Products include Brown Sheep, Waverly, Jean Greenhowe, Addi, and Skacel.

Shop Listings

Washington

Yarn n

Oregon

Yarns Gypsy Girl Creations www.stonebarnfibers.com (815) 968-1735 cathi@stonebarnfibers.com An ever changing kaleidoscope of unique colors.

Wool2Dye4 www.Wool2Dye4.com Yarnie@Wool2Dye4.com Exclusive line of undyed yarns for hand-dye artists.

advertisers’ index Brown Sheep Company. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Cascade Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C2, 13 Classic Elite Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Coats & Clark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Denise Interchangeable Knitting and Crochet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 DMC Corporation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Dragonfl y Fibers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Ehrman Tapestry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Eucalan Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Green Mountain Spinnery . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Halcyon Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Harrisville Designs Inc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Interweave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22, 59, 63, 65, 71, 73, 75, 77, 87, 89, 91, 93, C3 Irish Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Jade Sapphire Exotic Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Kelbourne Woolens (The Fibre Co) . . . . . . 23 Knitting Pure and Simple . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Lyn Harris Designs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Mango Moon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C4 Oomingmak, Musk Ox Producers . . . . . . . 63 Paradise Fibers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Pigeonroof Studios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Skacel Collection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Stitch Sprouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Tahki Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Universal Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Wool 2 Dye 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 YarnBox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Summer16 Knitscene

95


BLOGSPOTTING

Julia of Hand Knitted Things (www.handknittedthings.blogspot .com) uses her space on the Internet to share her lovely projects and photography. Read on to learn more about Julia!

Q A Q A

How long have you been blogging? H Seven years, starting in November 2008. Se What inspired you to start a blog? W Starting the blog offered a way of St documenting my knitting projects and sharing them with others. Having been taught the basics of knit and purl stitches as a child, I rediscovered knitting decades later. This, combined with my interest in photography, provided an outlet for my creative self.

Q A

What types of projects do you like to W knit and blog? Living on a croft in the northwest of Li Scotland, knitted hats and gloves always come in useful! I travel often, so I like small knitting projects such as hats, 96

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All photos by Julia Marsh

gloves, and socks, as they are easy to carry. I’ve made several pairs of the Basic Ribbed Socks by Kate Atherley, because they are great to wear with boots when walking around the local hills. Occasionally, I’ll embark on a larger project such as a cardigan, but these usually take me months to complete, so not many appear on the blog! I also blog about my own knitted designs from time to time. These are inspired by the area and landscape around my home. My Mini Croft House pattern was inspired by a local building located across the loch on the Applecross Peninsula.

Q A

Which post has been your favorite to W write so far? The post titled Bertie’s Shetland Wool Th Jumper (www.bit.ly./Berties-Jumper). I keep a small flock of Shetland sheep in a variety of colors and have blogged about the process of making their fleeces

into yarn. During 2015, six different natural-colored yarns came back from the spinners. My neighbor took some of the yarn to make a sweater for her dog, Bertie. She came up with a Fair Isle sweater combining the different colors. The result was lovely, and he looked so cute wearing his woolly outfit made from my sheep fleeces. He even called round to my home specially to show me his jumper and posed so I could take his photo.

Q A

Name one blog you love to read and Na share why you love it. I’ve been following the story of the inspiI’v rational Kate Davies (www.katedavies designs.com) for a number of years. She writes about her knitting designs and more recently her new yarn range. Her blog is extremely informative and contains varied in-depth articles accompanied by beautiful photography. Follow Julia online: handknittedthings on Ravelry and Instagram, @handknitted on Twitter


Includes the

Festival of Quilts Show in Birmingham PRESENTED BY

MAGAZINE

Contact: Kim@Craftours.com

877-887-1188


 
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