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FREE GIFT! JEWELLERY FINDINGS INSPIRING PROJECTS for Creative Crocheters

insidecrochet.co.uk LOVE YOUR HOME

STEPBY-STEP GUIDE

How to crochet Expert tips and tricks

21 BEAUTIFUL PROJECTS

FLOWER POWER

HEART TO HEART Stunning tasselled blanket

BRITISH WOOL

TOTALLY TWEEDY

Wrap up in glorious colour and texture

Start this trendy tee today

FABULOUS FLORALS

FORGET-ME-NOT Delicate necklace and earrings

SUPER STRIPES!

HAPPY FEET Bright and beautiful socks

ANIMAL MAGIC EASY-HOOK GARMENT

Adorable dress-up scarf for kids

STYLISH SHRUG Layer up in cosy pure-wool yarn

HAND-SPINNING ❤ LACE SKIRT ❤ JANE CROWFOOT IC#86_01[FloralScarf]SP3RD2.indd 1

£5.99 ISSUE 86

86

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Purplelinda Crafts

Love to Crochet

Purplelinda Crochet Hook Set

Set of 22 Hooks only ÂŁ19.99 Visit us online for the largest selection of Crochet Hooks and Crochet Supplies in the UK

www.purplelindacrafts.co.uk IC86 IFC.indd 1

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PO Box 6337, Bournemouth BH1 9EH Subscription enquiries t. +44 (0)1202 586848 chris@tailormadepublishing.co.uk

Meet the team Editor Rhian Drinkwater rhian@tailormadepublishing.co.uk Group Managing Editor Sarah Moran sarah@tailormadepublishing.co.uk Styling & Photoshoot Editor Claire Montgomerie claire@tailormadepublishing.co.uk Technical Editors Jane Czaja, Rachel Vowles Sub Editor Vicky Guerrero Online Marketing Executive Adrian Lito adrian@tailormadepublishing.co.uk Contributors Annelies Baes, Jacinta Bowie, Emma Du, Helen Free, Emma Friedlander-Collins, Steffi Glaves, Vicky Guerrero, Carmen Heffernan, Sarra Mackenzie-Pilot, Ruth Maddock, Claire Montgomerie, Irina Palczynski, Helda Panagary, Sharon H Silverman, Liz Ward Models Shelley Anne Harrison, Erian O’Neill, Freya McIvor Photography Leanne Jade Photography, Kirsten Mavric, Ken West, Lucy Williams, Mark Winwood Hair and make-up Nicki Henbrey Design Stephanie Peat Ad Production Leila Schmitz Main cover image Lucy Williams Small cover images Leanne Jade Photography, Kirsten Mavric, Lucy Williams

Publishing Publisher Tim Harris

Group Advertising Manager Jennie Ayres jennie@tailormadepublishing.co.uk Advertising Manager Sophie Bunch sophie@tailormadepublishing.co.uk t. +44 (0)7798 526070 Circulation Manager Tim Harris Production Manager John Beare IT Manager Vince Jones Subscriptions Manager Chris Wigg (See page 56 for subscription details) Published by Tailor Made Publishing Ltd PO Box 6337, Bournemouth BH1 9EH t. +44 (0)1202 586848 Printed by Precision Colour Printing Haldane, Halesfield 1 Telford, Shropshire TF7 4QQ t. +44 (0)1952 585585 ©Tailor Made Publishing Ltd 2017 All rights reserved. No part of this magazine, or digital versions of the magazine, may be used, reproduced, copied or resold without written permission of the publisher. All information and prices, as far as we are aware, are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Tailor Made Publishing Ltd cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Unsolicited artwork, manuscripts or designs are accepted on the understanding that Tailor Made Publishing Ltd incur no liability for their storage or return. Free gifts are available only with print editions, not with digital editions of the magazines. Tailor Made Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties.

Welcome With winter now in full swing, crochet is definitely my favourite way to wrap up warm against the cold! And this issue we’ve got a great selection of patterns to keep you cosy, from Ruth Maddock’s pure wool cardigan to Helda Panagary’s colourful Van Gogh Scarf, in a gorgeous vintage-look yarn. I’m also a big fan of layering up different length tops, so Annelies Baes’s Tweed Top will go perfectly over a long-sleeved tee – and there’s a matching set of mitts too to keep my hands warm. Love is in the air this month, with Valentine’s Day on the way, so we’re celebrating with some gorgeous “love” themed projects, from a heart motif blanket to a lovebirds mobile and Liz Ward’s adorable flamingo amigurumi. There’s also a beautiful floral set by Helen Free, worked in a gorgeous handspun yarn. Turn to page 98 to read our interview with the spinner, Tania Oakshott, and if you’re interested in trying out spinning for yourself, you can read our introduction to the joys of the craft on page 84. I love spinning my own wool using a pretty wooden drop spindle – there’s nothing quite like crocheting with yarn you made yourself! Our free cover gift this issue is a set of jewellery making supplies ideal for combining with your yarn, from brooch backs and earring hooks to jump rings that are ideal for crocheting around – just turn to page 55 to try out my Circles set for some fun ideas. Happy crocheting!

page

36

Rhian Drinkwater, Editor

www.pinterest.com/insidecrochet www.facebook.com/insidecrochet @insidecrochet www.insidecrochet.co.uk 03

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8

7

CONTENTS ISSUE 86

24 Meet designer Jane Crowfoot

40

72

75

NEWS & REVIEWS

FEATURES

06 IN THE LOOP

24 STUDIO STYLE

Make a date with Wonderwool Wales 2017, hook some cute companions, discover the Yarn Collective and meet fabulous designers Megan Kreiner and Rosina Northcott.

09 YARN REVIEWS Cosy up with this month’s line-up including a Scheepjes centre-pull yarn, a chainette yarn from Deramores, a colourful 4ply by Debbie Bliss and a vintage-look mohair/silk blend.

11 OFF THE HOOK With Valentine’s Day round the corner, we showcase our favourite heart-filled treats.

12 BOOK REVIEWS Calming crochet projects, fun taxidermy designs, Tamara Kelly’s quick makes for the home and a fun design collaboration.

Rhian Drinkwater chats with Jane Crowfoot – known for her vibrant blanket designs, crochet-alongs and gorgeous tessellated projects – about her exciting new studio space in North London.

84 SPINNING AROUND Thought about spinning your own yarn but not sure where to start? Crochet designer and spinner Sarra Mackenzie-Pilot talks roving and art batts, beginner-friendly fibres, and the joys of using a drop spindle and wheel.

11

98 FINAL THOUGHT We chat to Tania of lovespoolyarns about growing up in New Zealand, sheep farming, her passion for creating stunning one-off art yarns and the beauty of working with different fleeces, including rare breeds.

04 Inside Crochet

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Make it

Patterns in this issue

36 Scarlet Cardigan

40 Tweed Top

44 Tweed Mitts

46 New Leaf Skirt

48 Granny Shrug

49 Art Yarn Flowers

52 Van Gogh Scarf

55 Circles Jewellery

58 Flamingo Couple

59 Heart Stripe Socks

63 Lace Flower Shawl

64 Forget-Me Not Set

SPINNING AROUND

Images from Crochet A Farm by Megan Kreiner, Martingale, 2015; used by permission. Photos by Brent Kane. All rights reserved.

Sarra Mackenzie-Pilot shares the joys of spinning yarn PAGE 84

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REGULARS 56 SUBSCRIPTIONS It’s the perfect winter gift for a fellow crocheter, or just to treat yourself – have every issue delivered direct to your door.

62 BACK ISSUES Missed that must-have pattern or lost that favourite feature? Turn here to order Inside Crochet back issues.

68 Beer & Crisps 72 Lovebirds Baby Mobile Cushions

75 Heart Blanket

71 NEXT ISSUE SUBSCRIBE TODAY Treat yourself to an Inside Crochet subscription! Turn to page 56 for details

Our selection of fabulous fashion and sweet accessories will keep you busy through the rest of winter.

89 HOW TO CROCHET If you’re new to crochet, turn here for our illustrated guide to stitches and techniques, sponsored by Stylecraft.

80 Baby Hat

82 Animal Magic Scarf

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News etc

IN THE LOOP BLOGS | BOOKS | REVIEWS | EVENTS | INTERVIEWS

© Sarah Evans

© www.johntealephotography.co.uk

➻ Glam up with this breathtaking new shawl designed by Julie Harris. Named after her grandmother, the beautiful Irene shawl features a variety of intricate lace patterns and pretty hem edging. There are two versions, the standard laceweight in Bluefaced Leicester Lace in Blue Iris (shown right), or a fine laceweight with extra sections. Printed pattern £4.50, pdf £3.75, from www. watercoloursandlace. co.uk or Ravelry.

© www.johntealephotography.co.uk

S T U N N I N G S H AW L

[ YA R N S H O W ]

Wonderwool Wales 2017 [ S H O P S W E LOV E ]

Rainbow Valley Crochet ➻ Helen Free’s passion for crochet led her to set up Rainbow Valley Crochet, jam-packed with her colourful patterns and kits including fabulous animal toys and puppets. “My website is bright and cheerful and my patterns quirky and original. A bit like me really!” she says. Helen uses Stylecraft Special DK and Aran yarns for her patterns and kits, and also stocks DMC Petra, Natura and Woolly as well as Malabrigo and a variety of hooks and notions. Check out her new CAL, the English Secret Garden Blanket, or if you’re in the area, catch Helen at her weekly classes or occasional workshops. www.facebook.com/ RainbowValleyCrochet www.enfys.me.uk

➻ This unmissable annual wool and natural fibre show is back for its 11th year, on 22 & 23 April at the Royal Welsh Showground, Builth Wells. With a programme of exciting Woolschool workshops, join designer Jen Best and hook a cute crochet phone case with sparkling beads, or learn new techniques including felting bowls, needlefelting, Mapuche weaving, weaving with willow bark, spinning using a traditional Mayan technique or “express dyeing” – using new food dyes to inject colour straight into balls of yarn. Explore over 200 fantastic Welsh and British artisan products and shop for swoon-worthy yarny goodies, meet the wonderful people who made them, and chat with other fellow fibre fans. Definitely a fun date for your diary! Day tickets £10, weekend tickets £18, www.wonderwoolwales.co.uk. Find Wonderwool Wales on Facebook or follow the action on Twitter @wonderwoolwales

N E W YA R N! ➻ The beautiful earthy shades in the new Deramores Toscana Aran range are sure to transport you to the romance and warmth of the Tuscan landscape as you hook, with its rugged hills, deep blue seas and olive groves. Just the thing to cheer up these winter months! This beautifully soft, luxury Italian range was developed in collaboration with Vogue Knitting designer Cornelia Tuttle Hamilton, with supporting knit patterns. The yarn is a gorgeous wool and acrylic blend, perfect for cosy scarves and jumpers, and comes in a range of nine variegated shades which will add lovely tweedy tones to your accessories and garments. Colours include the warm golds and browns of Wheat Field, the radiant rich hues of Tuscan Red, the glorious greens of Olive Branch and the deep blues of Storm Clouds. £7.99 for 100g, www.deramores.com

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IN THE LOOP

DIARY ✽ 2–5 MARCH

THE SPRING KNITTING & STITCHING SHOW

[CHARITY PROJECT]

Help for hardworking animals ➻ Meet cuddly Clarence the camel and his busy pals as you get your hook out to help international animal charity SPANA (Society for the Protection of Animals Abroad) raise funds to help sick and injured working animals at one of their clinics. Order the “Big Knit for Vet Kit” patterns (designed by Val Pierce) and crochet Clarence and if you knit, whip up Duncan the donkey, Oscar the ox and Hattie the horse! A new knit design, Emma the elephant, is also available. The patterns are free but all donations and sponsorship will help the charity (supported by actress Pam Ferris) provide more free veterinary treatment in developing countries. We think these cuties will make super-sweet gifts for animal lovers and little ones. Big Knit for Vet Kit patterns can be downloaded, or you can request a printed version, from www.spana.org/knit or by calling 020 7831 3999

This crafting fest heads to Olympia in London. Packed with over 200 exhibitors selling yarn, craft essentials, fabric and more and with a host of workshops. Tickets £13 in advance. www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com

✽ 10 & 11 MARCH

EDINBURGH YARN FESTIVAL A fabulous celebration of all things related to yarn and hand-knitting, plus crochet, spinning, weaving and felting. Meet like-minded people, share projects, shop, eat in the yarn café and learn a new skill. Day tickets £12, weekend tickets £18. www.edinyarnfest.com

✽ SATURDAY 8 APRIL

SPRING INTO WOOL

W E LOV E … This eye-popping CMYK hanging organiser crocheted from acrylic yarn, with mini pom-poms and buttons, by Birminghambased designer Amanda Suckling. CMYK stacking pots and heart pegs also available.

£20, www.thisgeeklove.etsy.com

Don’t Miss!

Share your skills and passion for wool crafts at a brand new festival in Leeds. With free workshops, presentations and displays, knit and natter areas and goodies for sale, enjoy spinning and dyeing, weaving and crocheting, knitting, and dry and wet felting. Tickets £4. www.springintowool.co.uk

✽ 13 & 14 MAY

WOOL@J13 A vibrant new wool and yarn show will be coming to the Midlands, at a farm in the market town of Penkridge, Staffordshire, a few minutes from J13 of the M6. The festival is designed to celebrate all things woolly through exhibitors, workshops, talks and exhibitions, with music, mayhem and street food added to the mix! www.wool-j13.co.uk

WORKSHOPS ✽ SATURDAY 25 FEBRUARY

FUN WITH CROCHET

[ N E W PAT T E R N S ]

Who is the cutest of them all? ➻ If you love amigurumi, you’re in for a treat! Inspired by her travels to Japan, the home of amigurumi, Angela Tunstall of Wool4Less has created her new Kawaii Designs collection. Kawaii means cute in Japanese, and the House Pet Collection includes eight adorable characters, from Bruno the Puppy and Milo the Cat to Tallulah the Micro Pig and Elvis the Rooster. “I love using variegated yarns for animals as it adds depth to the overall effect,” says Angela. “I have used a chunky weight yarn so they come out bigger and can be made quicker. The cuteness factor is down to the shaping in the stuffing, the size of the eyes and the positioning of the head.” Keep your eye out for more additions to the family! Kits from £10.50, pdf patterns £2.50, www.wool4less.co.uk

Head to Barnet to join Jane Crowfoot and develop the confidence to play with crochet techniques and work in a freeform way. You will make a small piece to use as a charm, bag decoration or brooch, learning bullion stitch, frills, loops and beading. 10am–4pm, £55 www.janiecrow.co.uk

✽ SATURDAY 25 FEBRUARY

CROCHET TEXTURE WORKSHOP WITH HEIKE GITTENS Learn a variety of ways to brighten up your crochet using textured stitches and elements. You’ll work on a sampler bag incorporating cables and stitches. Heike is a tutor, designer and blogger, who specialises in knitting and crochet. All materials included. 10am–4pm, £49.95 www.blacksheepwools.com

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[CAREERS]

CROCHET ENTREPRENEURS We chat to designer Megan Kreiner about mixing film animation with crochet, and creating toys that inspire children. www.mkcrochet.com

The Yarn Collective ➻ We’re thrilled to hear about the launch of new fibre line, The Yarn Collective. Its first three beautiful yarns have 10 colourways developed by a contemporary knitting designer and all are spun in Peru from the softest Merino wool and hand-dyed to give unique variations. The Portland Lace shades were dreamed up by Melanie Berg, inspired by Peruvian skies, or a walk in the woods. Bloomsbury DK was made in collaboration with Carol Feller with three palettes, Surfer Blues, Fall and Fuchsia, while Pembroke Worsted, based on the rich tones of gems and minerals, was curated by Bristol Ivy. All lines come with knitting patterns, with hopefully some crochet patterns in the future! £16.90, www.theyarncollective.com and www.lovecrochet.com

[C RA F T ACC E S S O RY ]

Dainty dumplings ➻ This gorgeous brocade ‘dumpling’ case from HiyaHiya is lined in luxurious golden silk and must be the cutest way to keep stitch markers easily to hand – just squeeze it to open it and then let it snap shut. Inside are six coloured knitting stitch markers in the shape of little yarn balls. This sweet case measures 8cm wide, 5cm deep and 5cm high, so it’s easy to tuck into your bag along with your latest project when you’re on the go. They make pretty gift ideas too, if you have some thank yous or birthdays coming up! Dumpling case £8.99, www.brownberryyarns.co.uk

Megan carefully plans out her patterns on paper. “The majority of my designs are the first and only passes I’ve created of them simply because I can’t afford the time to make them again,” she explains. So, are there any links between animation and crochet design? “Working in an industry where I’m manipulating and animating three-dimensional characters on the computer really does help when I go home and visualise the shapes needed for a toy design before I begin working on it,” she enthuses. Megan finds deadlines the hardest bit of running her own business. “They are difficult to hit,” she admits. “The time conflicts usually arise with kid-related circumstances. My husband is also in law school, so it’s difficult to steal a few hours to work on crochet patterns when he’s studying on weekends!” However, being able to follow her own creative ideas makes it all worth it. “At an animation studio, we’re tasked with creating the film that our directors and supervisors want. When I’m designing a crochet or knitted toy pattern, I get to own that design from start to finish.” At home, Megan tends to work at the couch or dining room table. “One thing I sorely wish I had more of is storage space so I can organise my materials.” So she’s thrilled that she will soon have a “proper” studio space in the garage. What exciting projects are in store for Megan? “I have some new books in the works, so I’m looking forward to putting them together. That, and the finished studio space in our garage, of course!” © MK Crochet 2016

[ N E W YA R N ]

Megan Kreiner lives in California with her husband Michael and her two children, James (six) and Emily (three). She designs for the MK crochet pattern collection, has written several books and writes knit toy patterns too. She is also an animator at DreamWorks Animation. Knitting came first for Megan, as her mother, grandmother and aunt were all prolific knitters. She picked up crochet from books, friends and websites, and after a chat with a relative who never used patterns, she began to make her own designs. “I started by sketching a simple tiger toy and writing down the pattern based on other crochet shapes I knew. I then tried a few more designs including an elephant, lion and giraffe. On a lark, I sent a box of these toys to Martingale publishers, with a proposal for a book. Three months later, I was writing patterns for my first collection, Crochet A Zoo.” When she’s designing, Megan considers what toys would give her children inspiration during imaginative play. “Now they are older, I’ll get requests for a construction vehicle or a character from a movie I’ve worked on, and I’ll create a pattern that I can then use in a book or magazine,” says Megan, who has also designed toy patterns for Disney crochet kits. “In general, I try to add lots of options to my patterns so crafters can customise them for their recipients.” So how does Megan juggle her work and family life? “I try to fit in most of my design work after my kids go to bed. That said, I have fallen asleep in more work meetings that I would care to admit!”

Images from Crochet A Farm by Megan Kreiner, Martingale, 2015; used by permission. Photos by Brent Kane. All rights reserved.

Image from Creepy Crawly Crochet by Megan Kreiner, Dover Publications, 2016; used by permission. Photos by Tommy Muller. All rights reserved.

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[ YA R N R E V I E W ]

Add to your stash

YARNS WE LOVE

IN THE LOOP

[QUESTION TIME]

W E A SK ED OU R R E A DER S…

WORDS RHIAN DRINKWATER

Have you ever tried spinning your own yarn?

Scheepjes Secret Garden The centre pull “Easy Start” tab on this new yarn from Scheepjes is a simple concept, but impressively effective – you really can just pick up a ball and start hooking! It’s a lovely yarn with a rustic, textured feel that works up into even stitches and a stable fabric with plenty of stretch. It comes in ten variegated colourways, but our favourite is this pretty spring green shade.

Don’t forget, we are now offering a free one-year subscription to Inside Crochet for our favourite response, so send us your comments! 60% polyester/20% silk/20% cotton 50g/93m/102yds £4.39 from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

Deramores Woolpaca Chunky Developed in partnership with designer Vickie Howell, this chainette yarn comes in eight intense shades varying from this bold magenta to a gorgeous mustard yellow, snowy white and tomato red. It’s light and airy, so great for cosy winter accessories, and is incredibly springy and soft to hook with, working into a crisp, even fabric.

➻ Lynzi Venn: My other half bought me a wheel and I’ve got some fantastic handdyed fluff… just need time to practise!

80% Merino wool/20% alpaca • 50g/110m/120yds £7.50 from www.deramores.com

➻ Jeanette Webster: I have two gorgeous drop spindles, I am still slow, but find the whole process amazing. I love seeing batts of fibre become yarn.

100% wool • 100g/410m/448yds £11.65 from www.laughinghens.com

Rowan Kidsilk Haze Vintage Rowan’s classic Kidsilk Haze yarn is given a vintage-style twist in this new line, which features a white core to each strand for a subtle blended effect when worked up. It comes in five delicate shades ideal for lightweight garments and accessories, and works up beautifully on a larger hook to 70% mohair/30% silk • 25g/210m/230yds £9.95 from www.englishyarns.co.uk create a light and airy fabric.

The Yarn Collective Bloomsbury DK With a colour palette curated by knitting designer Carol Feller, this gorgeously round and bouncy new yarn has a great pedigree, and we weren’t disappointed by the ten semi-solid shades which range from a deep indigo to a bright fuchsia and this surf-inspired green, with a real handdyed feel to the tonal colours.

➻ Joke Kiewiet-Pasjes: So much fun to do and nothing is more satisfying than crocheting with your own spun yarn. ➻ Jane Bramble: Yes, I learned on a drop spindle, then got a Peggy spinning wheel.

Debbie Bliss Botany Lace This springy, high-twist yarn is a 4ply rather than laceweight, but would work up beautifully into any number of pretty lace designs. The recommended hook size creates even, neat little stitches, and the yarn comes in 20 variegated colourways ranging from semi-solid tonals to more contrasting ranges such as that shown here, perfect for a vibrant accessory.

WINNER! ZOË JOBSON ➻ Yup, but it has increased my stash adding a wheel, various prep gadgets, and loads of fluff from whole sheep fleeces to pretty dyed silk bricks.

➻ Mary Jones: Using a spinning wheel is very meditative. I have experimented with dyeing the wool with Kool Aid. ➻ Ashley Clark: Yes! I got a spinning wheel and had bobbins neatly filled. Shame on me for leaving it unsupervised around a ten-year-old… what was nice yarn was unspun into a woolly mess. ➻ Knit’n Kitten: Have been since I was about 10 years old! ➻ Ace: I started with a simple drop spindle before investing in a spinning wheel. Best investments of my life!

FOL L OW!

100% wool • 100g/240m/263yds £16.90 from www.lovecrochet.com

Kate of Just Pootling has an Instagram feed full of inspiring cro chet designs, interiors and works in progress. Pour yourself a nice hot cho colate, grab your latest project and settle in for a browse! www.instagram.com/ just_pootling

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We Love

Blog

WE LOVE

Rosina Northcott [C H A R I T Y P R OJ EC T ]

Cute companions ➻ Premature babies at Poole Hospital neo-natal unit have a new friend in their incubators as they cuddle up to a crochet octopus. Research from Denmark shows the babies love the tentacles due to their similarity to the umbilical cord, making them feel safer, and the octopus appears to calm them, giving better breathing. The unit is inviting crocheters to make more octopuses in any colour and size. Each will be packed into a special gift bag and offered to parents. Send your octopus to: Poole Hospital NSH Foundation Trust neonatal unit, Longfleet Road, Poole, Dorset BH15 2JB. You can download a pattern here: http://bit.ly/2fo4I7M

[ N E W TO C R O C H E T ]

Getting hooked Beginner crocheter Caroline Bawn continues her crochet journey… ➻ “This month I have been side-tracked by a CAL blanket, which involves doing four block-stitch rows a day, using some yarn I hand-dyed in the summer. I love the gentle changes in colour as well as the bolder purple and reds. I used lichen, gorse flowers, onion skins, madder and logwood and the alchemy of it all was amazing, cooking up the dyes and adding the yarns outdoors. I will put it on a chair, but for now it is on the sofa keeping me warm and cosy while I get going again on my jumper!”

Read more at www.insidecrochet.co.uk and visit Caroline’s shop at www.gorgeousyarns.co.uk.

www.zeensandroger.wordpress.com Tell us about yourself... I live in East Devon with my husband and two boys, Edward, seven and Arthur, three, and Marceline, our lovely cat! Tell us a bit about what you do. Aside from bringing up the children, I mostly obsess over my love of crafting. How long have you been blogging? I started the blog in spring 2015. I’d been thinking about it for nearly five years! I’m

blogs hard. But I’m glad I made the leap, or I wouldn’t have had so much fun! How did you learn to crochet? Apart from an attempt when I was eight (my Nanna wouldn’t let me hold the hook like a knife when I was trying to chain), I learned about six years ago. Nanna had made a granny blanket for my first baby and I wanted to make one too. After a few YouTube videos and a beginners book, I’d made a granny square. I still have that chain, and Nanna still told me off last year for holding the hook wrong! How did you start designing? It has only been the last few months that I’ve begun

“I get ideas from décor. I pinch the colours off the wallpaper to make a crochet thing.” now tempted by podcasts, give me a few years and I might sort myself out. What inspired you to start blogging? While learning crochet I found I enjoyed reading craft blogs and wanted in on the action! There was a whole community who had the same interests as me. I also wanted to record the items I made. Do you use any other social media? Yes. I am an Instagram addict! It can eat up blogging time if I’m not careful though. Have you made new friends through blogging? Absolutely. It took a lot of courage for me to talk on the internet but there is good handful I count as friends. I still find commenting on other

to consider myself a designer. I have never been one for following a recipe and I think it’s an extension of that. What are your sources of inspiration? Talking about crochet and other crafts can spark an idea. I also get ideas from magazines and books. The colour scheme or décor can make me think “that could be a blanket!” And off I go, pinching the colours off the wallpaper to make a complementary crochet thing. What item in your workspace couldn’t you live without? My workspace is usually the sofa (I so want a craft room). More often than not, it’s the floor because I’m ousted from the sofa by the boys. If I had to choose one item it’d be scissors. I have a friend who bites the yarn off. It sets my teeth on edge! What are you working on now? Lots of cosy, wintery things. I’ve got about three or four ideas for scarf projects. Who are your favourite other bloggers and designers? My new favourite is Potter and Bloom. I found Emma via her #crochetgirlgang hashtag on Instagram and I recently did a pattern test for her. There are lots designs by The Crochet Project that are on my wishlist too.

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IN THE LOOP

You’re my cup of tea

Loved up

Made with love

£7

£10

£1.99

This pretty, two-toned heart mug is just the thing for our afternoon cuppa. www.cathkidston.com

We're smitten with this cuddly bear! He's sure to warm up anyone's heart and toes. www.sainsburys.co.uk

Add the perfect finishing touch to your gift wrapping with this sweet heart ribbon. www.jeremyshomestore.co.uk

LOVE IS IN THE AIR With Valentine’s Day coming up, spread the love with our heart-filled goodies and homewares.

We Love

Hearty treat

Romantic picture

Prickly pair

£19.99

£16

£20

Indulge in a TV supper with this cheerful tray with painted hearts by Emma Bridgewater. www.jeremyshomestore.co.uk

Brighten up your sofa with this cushion featuring a sweet bicycle and love balloons. www.mandco.com

We love this bright red watering can with the cute spiky duo stealing a kiss! www.amara.com

Inspired? Snuggle up under this cosy and colourful Moroccan-inspired Boho Blanket from issue 82. To order back issues turn to page 62.

One love

Follow your heart

£8.95

£8

These white ceramic bottles will look stylish filled with your favourite sprigs and flowers. www.livelaughlove.co.uk

Record your dreams in this hand-printed heart pattern journal by artist Ella Johnston. www.ellasplace.co.uk/shop

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BOOKS WE REVIEW NEW AND EXCITING RELEASES

WE ARE A L SO R E A DI NG...

Crochet Taxidermy Taylor Hart Storey Publishing, £10.99 • US terminology ➻ Show off your skills around your home with this imaginative collection of fun “crocheted taxidermy” designs from Taylor Hart of www.nothingbutapigeon. com. There are 30 patterns included, with chapters including “Safari Friends” and “Zoo Buddies”, and there are plenty of clear, full-colour photographs to help with each design. There’s also a how-to for creating a display plaque to mount your crochet on! Our favourites include the classic moose head and the adorable cuttlefish.

TURN TO PAGE 63 TO TRY OUT THE PRETTY LACE FLOWER SHAWL DESIGN.

Quick Crochet For The Home Tamara Kelly Interweave, £16.99 • US terminology

Crochet Yourself Calm Carmen Heffernan Search Press, £10.99 UK terminology ➻ Inspired by crochet’s wonderful ability to calm and sooth us as we create, this collection from Carmen Heffernan (www.anniedesign.etsy.com) contains a huge variety of motif-style designs, as well as a selection of larger projects which build on them. Drawn from the light and landscapes of her native Ireland, the designs use bright, striking colours which can’t fail to bring a smile to your face as you work. Chapters are divided by shape, from circular motifs which create “restful ripples of colour” to traditional crocheted squares, soothing stripes, calming zig-zags and more. Within each section is a host of different techniques, including shells, bobbles and seed stitches, so this would also make a great workbook for expanding your crochet know-how. Clear charts are included for each motif, and each section includes a couple of larger projects that use the designs from that chapter. These include a stunning Mexican Tiles Blanket, cosy child’s hat in cross hatch stripes and a colourful lace scarf. There’s also an illustrated guide to basic crochet at the end. This would make a great stitch dictionary and pattern book for a more experienced crocheter, but would also serve as a lovely introduction to the craft for a beginner, particularly anyone looking to improve mindfulness and peace of mind with a relaxing, creative new hobby.

➻ We’re big fans of Tamara’s website, www.mooglyblog.com, so were thrilled to see her new collection – and we love her philosophy that “crochet is the touch that makes a house a home”. Quick Crochet For The Home takes each room and presents designs perfect for adding the homely touch, from a cornerto-corner cushion and super-chunky faux cabled blanket in the living room to trivets and dishcloths in the kitchen, towel edgings for the bathroom and a striking log cabin throw and sweet ring bowls in the bedroom.

Take Two Lynne Rowe & Fay Dashper-Hughes £12 (ebook £10) from www.knitit-hookitcraftit.com • UK terminology ➻ There’s a great concept behind this new collection – there are eight designs, but each is interpreted in two different ways. Lynne and Fay have designed four items each, ranging from a cosy pair of mitts to a slouchy shoulder bag, and then “swapped”, with each designer creating a new interpretation of their co-author’s pattern. Some versions only change the yarn type or colour, while others move to a different weight (Galicia is a beautiful lace cowl worked in both a DK and a laceweight), change the shaping or add in new colours.

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Gorgeous Yarns Inspire and create We now exclusively stock Purely Gorgeous, a 100% Organic Merino yarn

www.gorgeousyarns.co.uk Email:gorgeousyarns@gmail.com Tel: 07985 116432

Online store specialising in alpaca and other luxury yarns, haberdashery, patterns, kits and much more.. 10%

T DISCOUN

use code IC15

Visit online www.thelittlewoolcompany.com

or call 01409 221699 for mail order

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floral fancies Fall in love with our delicate motifs, cosy accessories and dramatic lace designs. Photographs leanne jade photography, kirsten mavric AND Lucy Williams Styling claire montgomerie Hair and make-up nicki henbrey

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Van Gogh Scarf by Helda Panagary Using Stylecraft Batik DK Pattern page 52

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Circles Jewellery Set by Rhian Drinkwater Using Scheepjes Maxi Bonbon Pattern page 55

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Scarlet Cardigan by Ruth Maddock Using Debbie Bliss Rialto DK Pattern page 36

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Tweed Mitts by Annelies Baes Using Blacker Westcountry Tweed DK Pattern page 44

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New Leaf Skirt by Sarra Mackenzie-Pilot Using Scheepjes Linen Soft Pattern page 46 www.insidecrochet.co.uk 19

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Forget-Me-Not Jewellery by Steffi Glaves Using Gütterman Hand Quilting Cotton Pattern page 64

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Glamorous Granny Shrug by Emma Friedlander-Collins Using Rowan Pure Wool Superwash DK Pattern page 48

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Tweed Top by Annelies Baes Using Blacker Westcountry Tweed DK Pattern page 40

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Specialising in hand dyed yarns

From a studio based in Glasgow, indie dyer Lisa Harland makes handmade ergonomic crochet hooks in a variety of styles and designs custom made to your speciďŹ cations. As well as hooks, Lisa also creates beautiful hand dyed yarns in a stunning array of colours and other crochet goodies, accessories and notions for people who live for their love of yarn. Specialising in a range of different yarn clubs to suit all budgets, these monthly subscriptions are available on a no minimum sign up. With prices starting from just ÂŁ9 there really is a club to suit everyone. For details about the full range of Yarn Clubs available please visit our Etsy store or email us at : fortheloveofyarnuk@gmail.com

Find us on Etsy: Fortheloveofyarnuk

www.fortheloveofyarn.co.uk

Home of The Yarn Lover adult colouring book

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n | after 20 years in the yar ly ent rec has e business, jan ce. moved into a new studio spa

| jane's gorgeous tessellated shawls, vibra nt, cosy blankets and pretty cushion covers are a surefire way to cheer up each and every day! .

MY SPACE

Rhian Drinkwater chats to Jane Crowfoot, the crochet designer known for her must-hook blanket patterns and stunning crochet-along designs.

W

ith her strong, textured patterns and bold use of colour, it’s no surprise that Jane Crowfoot is one of crochet’s most popular designers. Based in Cockfosters, North London, Jane is famous amongst crocheters for her beautiful crochetalong designs as well as gorgeous tessellated projects. Previously based at her home, which she shares with her husband (and business partner) Andy and two grown-up children Charlie and Summer, Jane has recently moved her business, Janie Crow, into a dedicated studio space. “It was a massive decision for us to move the business away from home, but it got to the point where we couldn’t grow the business without moving,” she says. “Janie Crow HQ is now based in a large converted Victorian house that houses a total of six office suites in High Barnet. We have a large office space to the rear

and a showroom to the front; off from the showroom I have a small dedicated studio. The ceilings are high and we have large sash windows so the light at the front is fabulous even on a grey day.” And with a new workspace, Jane’s day-to-day routine has changed, too. “We get to the studio for 9am, and Andy has an office at the back where he works with our assistant Sue doing the web orders and all the day-to-day emails and web related things. At the front I’m in my studio space so I tend to be quite separated

"I am often inspired by similar things; I love looking at Persian and Moorish design, Indian textiles and artists." from the day-to-day running of the business and can bury myself in my work. I tend to start the day with design work so that I make the most of the daylight – this is especially the case if I need to do some photography – and then after lunch/mid afternoon I look at emails and work on written work.” She’s relished the chance to build a workspace away from the hustle and bustle of a family home – though she still aims for a homely feel. “The thing I love the most is that I don’t have to tidy away everything at the end of the day,” laughs Jane. “I’ve tried my best to make the showroom and studio feel like an extension of home, so I have brought in quite a few junk shop finds, pictures and some personal things to dress the showroom.” Jane has been in the hand knitting business for more than 20 years, working as a Rowan Design Consultant as well as with Debbie Bliss, and also writing several knitting and crochet books. But it wasn’t until 2011, with the launch of the first of her famous – and fabulous – “Crochet Club” crochet-alongs, that she set up

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Janie Crow, and her husband Andy got officially involved. It was no small step either. “Running the Crochet Club was a massive undertaking; we had an average of 500 members worldwide for each of the four years that we ran the club,” laughs Jane. “Andy took over a few aspects of running the club and then he decided to set up the Janie Crow shop and website, which now stocks lots of hooks, needles and notions. The last year we ran a Crochet Club was in 2014, because in 2015 and 2016 I designed crochet-along projects for Stylecraft instead, but we are hoping to run our own CAL-style project again next year…” Crochet-along patterns carry their own challenges too. “When designing a CAL project I do my best to give the crocheter lots of techniques to get their teeth into and a few different things to learn within each set of patterns, if possible,” explains Jane, “so the timescale for the design is longer than if I was creating a project using a repeated motif. The CAL designs take me a long time – probably about six months (with a few other projects slotting in at the same time), but I do really enjoy the challenge of doing them. I am one of those crocheters who struggles to repeat making a motif more than about four or five times, so designing for a CAL project suits me really well as I mix up the motifs so that there is a maximum of only about six repeated motifs.” Jane has a distinctive style in her designs, with a strong feel for and awareness of geometric patterns, as well as the unique textures that crochet can provide. “People do say my work is quite distinguishable from other designers, but I don’t know whether this means I have a design style,” smiles Jane. “I am often inspired by similar things; I love looking at Persian and Moorish design, Indian textiles and artists for my inspiration.” She also tries hard to be original and create projects that are different to designs that are currently available – something that ensures her designs always stand out from the crowd, whether that’s on a yarn show

STUDIO STYLE

Inspirations! BOOK

The Complete Book Of Crochet Stitch Designs by Linda P Schapper

BLOG uk.jonathanadler.com/inside-JAs -world.html WEBSITE www.foltbolt.com

stand or a Ravelry pattern search. “I don’t really see the ‘designer’ input in creating yet another granny square design or simply recolouring an existing design,” Jane explains. “There are so many designers out there that do the shabby chic, ‘homely’ style design far better than I could, so I suppose I have tried hard not to go down this design route.” With 2017 now well underway, Jane is also looking forward to the possibilities of a dedicated studio and launching new designs, some inspired by her recent travel. “I have a couple of crochet-along type projects planned,” she explains. “We had hoped to launch our own blanket CAL in the spring, but we will probably push that to autumn now. I really want to design a cushion collection and have some ideas for new project kits. I have so many ideas from my trips to India that have yet to come to fruition, so hopefully these elements will make it into a design soon.” But most of all, Jane plans to enjoy the benefits of working in a career she’s made very much her own. “I am so incredibly lucky to have been able to follow my dreams and ideas and work within a field that I love!” Visit www.janiecrow.co.uk to view more of Jane’s designs, and browse her patterns, kits and yarn shop.

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£34.99 FOR 12 MONTHS £19.99 FOR 6 MONTHS

MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Blacker Westcountry Tweed DK, 100% wool, 50g/110m/119yds Yarn A: Grey x 6 (7, 7, 8) balls Yarn B: Turquoise x 2 (3, 3, 4) balls ● 4.5mm, 5mm & 5.5mm hooks ● Yarn needle ● Scissors ● Ruler ● Pins and mat for blocking

TENSION Work 15tr and 8 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 4.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Annelies Baes believes crocheted clothing is beautiful, comfortable and a way to express ourselves. Visit her website at www.vicarno. com and view more of her designs at www.ravelry.com/designers/ vicarnos-mama.

IN THE LOOP | BOOKS | REVIEWS | EVENTS | INTERVIEWS

© Sarah Evans

PATTERN NOTES This patternS uses of Sslip T U Na Nlot I NG H AW L stitches. Take your time to get new shawl ➻ Glam up with this breathtaking designed by Julie Harris. Named after her used to making nicethestretchy slip grandmother, beautiful Irene shawl features a variety of intricate lace patterns stitches by using a larger hook and pretty hem edging. There are two versions, size. It is important to work the the standard laceweight in Bluefaced Leicester Lace slip stitch rows to fi t perfectly in in Blue Iris (shown right), a fine laceweight with the patternor rows, this means they extra sections. pattern £4.50, must not bePrinted worked too loose or pdf £3.75, from www. watercoloursandlace. either too tight.

© www.johntealephotography.co.uk

News etc

SPECIAL STITCHES Shell: Work 7tr in 1 ch or stitch. BLOGS

© www.johntealephotography.co.uk

*Covermount gifts not available with digital versions

YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any heavy DK weight yarn, although it is advisable to use a tweed yarn to obtain a similar effect.

co.uk or Ravelry.

[ YA R N S H O W ]

Tweed Top BY ANNELIES BAES

We love this tweedy yarn from Blacker, worked into a comfortable and flattering top and worn with a bit of positive ease. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure wool yarn from www.blackeryarns.co.uk

The top is constructed in four HOPS W E LOV E ] pieces that are[ Sjoined seamlessly. Valley Start with the Rainbow centre front panel Crochet (piece 1), followed by the centre ➻ Helen Free’s passion for crochet led her to set up Rainbow Valley Crochet, back panel (piece 2). with Next the patterns jam-packed her colourful and kits including fabulous animal toys side parts are and created, by picking puppets. “My website is bright and cheerful and my patterns quirky and up stitches along the sides of the original. A bit like me really!” she says. Helen uses Stylecraft Special DK and centre panels,Aran and working extra yarns for her patterns and kits, and also stocks foundation stitches forDMC thePetra, Natura and Woolly as well as Malabrigo and a variety of hooks notions. Check neckline (pieces 3 and 4).andSleeves out her new CAL, the English Secret Garden Blanket, or iftops you’re in are worked out from the ofthe area, catch Helen at her weekly classes or occasional workshops. these side parts. Finish with the www.facebook.com/ bottom and neckline edgings. RainbowValleyCrochet www.enfys.me.uk

2ch at the beginning of a row does not count as 1 stitch. First stitch is made in the first ch or st, where the 2ch is.

40 Inside Crochet

Wonderwool Wales 2017 ➻ This unmissable annual wool and natural fibre show is back for its 11th year, on 22 & 23 April at the Royal Welsh Showground, Builth Wells. With a programme of exciting Woolschool workshops, join designer Jen Best and hook a cute crochet phone case with sparkling beads, or learn new techniques including felting bowls, needlefelting, Mapuche weaving, weaving with willow bark, spinning using a traditional Mayan technique or “express dyeing” – using new food dyes to inject colour straight into balls of yarn. Explore over 200 fantastic Welsh and British artisan products and shop for swoon-worthy yarny goodies, meet the wonderful people who made them, and chat with other fellow fibre fans. Definitely a fun date for your diary! Day tickets £10, weekend tickets £18, www.wonderwoolwales.co.uk. Find Wonderwool Wales on Facebook or follow the action on Twitter @wonderwoolwales

N E W YA R N! ➻ The beautiful earthy shades in the new Deramores Toscana Aran range are sure to transport you to the romance and warmth of the Tuscan landscape as you hook, with its rugged hills, deep blue seas and olive groves. Just the thing to cheer up these winter months! This beautifully soft, luxury Italian range was developed in collaboration with Vogue Knitting designer Cornelia Tuttle Hamilton, with supporting knit patterns. The yarn is a gorgeous wool and acrylic blend, perfect for cosy scarves and jumpers, and comes in a range of nine variegated shades which will add lovely tweedy tones to your accessories and garments. Colours include the warm golds and browns of Wheat Field, the radiant rich hues of Tuscan Red, the glorious greens of Olive Branch and the deep blues of Storm Clouds. £7.99 for 100g, www.deramores.com

06 Inside Crochet

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10/01/2017 13:36

Digital subscriptions start from as little as £19.99 for six months

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hearts of gold

Heart Blanket by Emma Du Using Stylecraft Special DK Pattern page 75

Cosy up this month with stylish homewares, fun accessories and adorable childrenswear. Photographs leanne jade photography, ken west, Lucy Williams and Mark Winwood Styling claire Montgomerie Hair and make-up nicki henbrey

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Beer & Crisps Cushions by Helen Free Using Stylecraft Special Aran Pattern page 68

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Art Yarn Flowers by Helen Free Using Lovespoolyarns Wired Art Yarn Pattern page 49

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hearts of gold

above left Animal Magic Scarf by Claire Montgomerie Using Sirdar Snowflake Chunky Pattern page 82 above right Baby Hat by Sharon H Silverman Using Caron Simply Soft Pattern page 80

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below left Flamingo Couple by Liz Ward Using Rico Baby Cotton Soft Pattern page 58 below right Lovebirds Baby Mobile by Jacinta Bowie Using Three Bears Yarn Affection 4ply Pattern page 72

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hearts of gold

above left Lace Flower Shawl by Carmen Heffernan Using Cascade Ultra Pima Fine Pattern page 63 above right Heart Stripe Socks by Sarra Mackenzie-Pilot Using West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply Pattern page 59

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Coleshill Accessories www.coleshillaccessories.co.uk

Sets of Knit-Pro Interchangeable needles

Clover Soft Touch Crochet Set £29.99

in strong, rainbow coloured birch. The birch wood tips screw into the cables, enabling you to change size quickly and economically. You can knit straight or in the round. Great for arthritic hands!

Contains 8 hooks in sizes:- 2.0mm 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 3.5mm, 4.0mm, 4.5mm, 5.5mm & 6.0mm in compact smart case.

Flexible feeling in your fingers The hook point is ideally shaped for easy crocheting

The handle is light, easy to hold and well balanced. The material looks like stylish tortoiseshell

Clover Soft Touch Crochet Hooks Customers’ favourite!

Symfonie De Luxe set £59.95 Has 8 pairs of needles sizes 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0mm and 4 cables to make 60, 80, 100 & 120cm circular needles.

Remember to state size. Available singly in sizes 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6mm £3.25ea For smaller than 2mm see our website or ring us. See left for a set in a case.

Knitting Needle & Crochet Cases Circular Needles Case Crochet Hook Case Two rows of pockets for circular Holds 8 hooks £7.95 needles, tips and cables £11.50

Knitting Needle Cases Symfonie Starter Set £21.50 Has 3 knitting tips sizes 4mm, 5mm, 6mm and 3 cables 60cm, 80cm and 100cm.

Store up to 7 pairs of needles in each with a pocket for accessories. State size required. A) For 9” needles B) For 14” needles

£11.50 each

Clover Row Counter £6.95 Pendant style for using with circular needles. Just click to change the number. Lockable.

Handeze Gloves Relieve pain from arthritis, tendonitis, carpel tunnel etc. while stitching or knitting. Available in beige or slate blue, with or without the extra wrist strap, which gives more support. Tail Catcher £21.95 To measure for size place hand on piece of Secures the end of your thread paper. Mark the paper each side of the when it is too short to use a knuckles, at the base of the fingers. Measure needle. Thread the loop through the distance between the 2 marks and select your stitching, hook the short size. thread into the loop & pull Size 2 2 – 2½” 51 – 64mm through. Size 3 64 – 78mm 2½ – 3¼” Choose from Butterfly, Tortoise, Size 4 78 – 91mm 3¼ – 3¾” Celtic, Bee, Kingfisher 91 – 105mm Size 5 3¾ – 4½” Not suitable for wool. Regular £19.95 Wrist Support £20.95 Postage & packing. Orders up to £12 – £2.95. Orders £12 to £25 - £3.95. Orders over £25 - £4.95.

Order from Siesta Frames Ltd (Please make cheques payable to Siesta Frames Ltd) Unit D. Longmeadow Ind.Est. Three Legged Cross, Wimborne. BH21 6RD Telephone: 01202 829461 www.coleshillaccessories.co.uk Other items available at www.siestaframes.com

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YOUR PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS START HERE BEGINNER

Scarlet Cardigan

EASY

Tweed Top

INTERMEDIATE

ADVANCED

Tweed Mitts

New Leaf Skirt Sarra Mackenzie-Pilot

Granny Shrug

Emma Friedlander-Collins

Page 46

Page 48

Ruth Maddock

Annelies Baes

Annelies Baes

Page 36

Page 40

Page 44

Art Yarn Flowers Helen Free Page 49

Van Gogh Scarf

Circles Jewellery Set

Flamingo Couple Liz Ward

Sarra Mackenzie-Pilot

Carmen Heffernan

Page 52

Page 55

Page 58

Page 59

Page 63

Helda Panagary

Rhian Drinkwater

Heart Stripe Socks

Forget-Me-Not Jewellery

Beer & Crisps Cushions

Lovebirds Baby Mobile

Heart Blanket Emma Du

Sharon H Silverman

Claire Montgomerie

Page 64

Page 68

Page 72

Page 75

Page 80

Page 82

Steffi Glaves

Helen Free

Jacinta Bowie

Baby Hat

Lace Flower Shawl

Animal Magic Scarf

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Debbie Bliss Rialto DK, 100% wool, 50g/105m/115yds Shade: Scarlet 12 x 14 (14, 15, 16, 16, 17, 18, 18) balls ● 4mm hook ● Yarn needle ● Large button YARN ALTERNATIVES Any DK weight yarn would work well here. TENSION Work 16tr and 9 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 4mm hook or size required to obtain tension. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Ruth studied fashion at Epsom Art School before starting her career as a knit and crochet designer. She is known for her stylish use of colour and texture. Find her online at www.lupinandrose.co.uk. PATTERN NOTES Please note that the Fronts are shaped at the underarm seam and not at the front edge. BACK Using 4mm hook, 70 (76, 80, 86, 90, 95, 99, 105)ch. Row 1: 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each ch to end, turn – 68 (74, 78, 84, 88, 93, 97, 103) sts. Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr), tr to end, turn. Rep last row another 11 (11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 13) times. START

Scarlet Cardigan BY RUTH MADDOCK

This striking cardigan is worked in a pure wool yarn to keep you cosy and stylish on winter days. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this colourful yarn from www.laughinghens.com

SHAPE ARMHOLES Next Row: Sl st in each of next 5 (5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9)tr, 3ch (counts as dec – do not work into this tr at end of next row), tr2tog, tr to last 8 (8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12)tr, tr3tog, turn – 56 (62, 66, 68, 72, 77, 77, 83)tr. Next Row: 3ch (counts as dec), tr2tog, tr to last 3tr, tr3tog, turn – 52 (58, 62, 64, 68, 73, 73, 79)tr. Next Row: 3ch (counts as first tr), tr2tog, tr to last 2tr, tr2tog, turn – 50 (56, 60, 62, 66, 71, 71, 77)tr. Next Row: 3ch, tr to end, turn. Rep last row a further 14 (15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18) times. SHAPE SHOULDERS Next Row: Sl st in each of next 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10)tr, 3ch (counts

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at side seam edge to create front opening slope

85 (91, 97, 103, 109, 115, 121, 127)cm 34 (36, 38, 41, 43, 46, 48, 50)in

33 (34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40)cm 13 (13½, 13¾, 14¼, 14½, 15, 15¼, 15¾)in

67.5 (69.5, 70.5, 72.5, 75.5, 78, 79, 81)cm 26½ (27½, 27¾, 28½, 29¾, 30¾, 31, 32)in

NB: Shaping is worked

43 (43, 44, 44, 45, 45, 46, 46)cm 17 (17, 17¼, 17¼, 17¾, 17¾, 18, 18)in

as dec), tr2tog, tr to last 8 (9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13)tr, tr3tog, turn – 38 (42, 44, 46, 48, 51, 51, 55)tr. Rep last row once more. Fasten off leaving centre 26 (28, 28, 30, 30, 31, 31, 33) sts for back neck. FRONT Make two Using 4mm hook, 40 (43, 46, 48, 51, 54, 57, 59)ch. Row 1: 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each ch to end, turn – 38 (41, 44, 46, 49, 52, 55, 57)tr. Work in patt as for Row 2 of Back, dec one st at beg of first row, then

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

at this same edge (side seam edge) for 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13) more rows – 27 (30, 32, 34, 36, 39, 41, 43)tr. Work one (one, zero, zero, one, one, zero, zero) row(s) without shaping, ending at armhole edge. SHAPE ARMHOLES Next Row: Sl st in each of next 5 (5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9)tr, 3ch (counts as dec), tr2tog, tr to end, turn – 21 (24, 26, 26, 28, 31, 31, 33)tr. Next Row: Patt to end. Next Row: Patt to last 2 sts, tr2tog, turn – 20 (23, 25, 25, 27, 30, 30, 32)tr.

TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST

BACK LENGTH

SLEEVE SEAM

Cont in patt as set by Row 2, at the same time, inc 1 st at each end of every fourth row until there are 53 (55, 57, 59, 59, 61, 63, 65) sts then cont without shaping until work measures 43 (43, 44, 44, 45, 45, 46, 46)cm/17 (17, 17¼, 17¼, 17¾, 17¾, 18, 18)in.

Rep last two rows eight (nine, nine, nine, nine, ten, ten, ten) more times – 12 (14, 16, 16, 18, 20, 20, 22)tr. Work one (zero, zero, one, one, zero, zero, one) more row(s) without shaping. Fasten off. SLEEVES Using 4mm hook, 41 (43, 45, 47, 47, 49, 51, 53)ch. Row 1: 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each ch to end, turn – 39 (41, 43, 45, 45, 47, 49, 51) sts. Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr), tr to end, turn.

SHAPE TOP Next Row: Sl st in each of next 5 (5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9)tr, 3ch (counts as dec), tr2tog, tr to last 8 (8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12)tr, tr3tog, turn – 41 (43, 45, 43, 43, 45, 43, 45)tr. Next Row: 3ch (counts as dec),

XXS

XS

S

M

L

XL

2X

3X

80

85

91

97

103

109

115

121

cm

32

34

36

38

41

43

46

48

in

85

91

97

103

109

115

121

127

cm

34

36

38

41

43

46

48

50

in

67.5

69.5

70.5

72.5

75.5

78

79

81

cm

26½

27½

27¾

28½

29¾

30¾

31

32

in

43

43

44

44

45

45

46

46

cm

17

17

17¼

17¼

17¾

17¾

18

18

in

tr2tog, tr to last 3tr, tr3tog, turn – 37 (39, 41, 39, 39, 41, 39, 41)tr. Next Row: Patt to end. Work zero (zero, zero, one, one, two, two, three) more row(s) without shaping. Next Row: 3ch (counts as dec), tr2tog, tr to last 3tr, tr3tog, turn – 33 (35, 37, 35, 35, 37, 35, 37)tr. Next Row: Patt to end. Rep the last two rows four more times – 17 (19, 21, 19, 19, 21, 19, 21) sts. Next Row: Sl st over first 4 sts, 3ch (counts as dec), tr2tog, tr to last 7tr, tr3tog – 13 (15, 17, 15, 15, 17, 15, 17) sts. Fasten off. SKIRT With right sides together pin side seams and then oversew together so work lays flat when opened out – 144 (156, 166, 176, 186, 197, 207, 217) sts around hem. With RS facing and 4mm hook, rejoin yarn with sl st to first ch at centre edge of left front. Working

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SKIRT PATTERN chain stitch (ch)

along other side of foundation ch, work as folls:

treble crochet (tr)

Size XXS only Row 1: 3ch (counts as first tr here and throughout), 1tr in each of next 5ch, 2ch, miss next ch, [1tr in each of next 5ch, 2ch] to last 7 sts, miss 1ch, 1tr in each of next 6ch, turn – 28 tr groups. Sizes XS, S, M & L only Row 1: 3ch (counts as first tr here and throughout skirt), [1tr in each of next 5ch, 2ch] to last 5ch, 2tr in next st, 4tr, turn – - (31, 33, 35, 37, -, -, -) tr groups. Sizes XL, 2X & 3X only Row 1: 3ch (counts as first tr here and throughout skirt), [1tr in each of next 5ch, 2ch] to last 6 sts, 1tr in each of next 6ch, turn – - (-, -, -, -, 39, 41, 43) tr groups.

7

6 5

4

3

2 1

All Sizes Row 2: 3ch, *1ch, miss 1tr, 3tr, 1ch, miss 1tr, (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in next 2ch-sp; rep from * to last rep, 1ch, miss 1tr, 3tr, 1ch, miss 1tr, 1tr in last tr. Row 3: 3ch, 1tr in same tr, *1ch, miss next tr, 1tr, 1ch, miss (1tr, 1ch, 1tr), 5tr in next 1ch-sp; rep from * to last rep, 1ch, miss 1tr, 1tr, 1ch, miss 1tr, 2tr in top of 3ch. Row 4: 3ch, 1tr in next tr, [2ch, 1tr in each tr of next group of 5tr] to end, ending 2ch, 1tr in each of last 2tr. Row 5: 3ch, *1ch, miss next tr, (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in next 2ch-sp, 1ch, miss 1tr, 3tr; rep from * to last rep, 1ch, miss next tr, (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in next 2ch-sp, 1ch, miss 1tr, 1tr in last tr. Row 6: 3ch, miss next (1ch, 1tr), *5tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch, miss next tr, 1tr, 1ch, miss (1tr, 1ch, 1tr); rep from * to last rep, 5tr in next 1ch-sp, 1tr in last tr. Row 7: 3ch, [1tr in each of next 5tr, 2ch] to end, ending last rep 1tr in each of last 6tr. Rows 2–7 form patt.

chain stitch (ch)

Cont in patt until skirt measures 33 (34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40)cm/ 13 (13½, 13¾, 14¼, 14½, 15, 15¼, 15¾)in ending with a Row 6. Next Row: 3ch, [1tr in each of next 5tr, 1ch, sl st in next tr, 1ch] to end, ending last rep END 1tr in each of last 6tr. Fasten off.

treble crochet (tr)

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Blacker Westcountry Tweed DK, 100% wool, 50g/110m/119yds Yarn A: Grey x 6 (7, 7, 8) balls Yarn B: Turquoise x 2 (3, 3, 4) balls ● 4.5mm, 5mm & 5.5mm hooks ● Yarn needle ● Scissors ● Ruler ● Pins and mat for blocking YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any heavy DK weight yarn, although it is advisable to use a tweed yarn to obtain a similar effect. TENSION Work 15tr and 8 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 4.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Annelies Baes believes crocheted clothing is beautiful, comfortable and a way to express ourselves. Visit her website at www.vicarno. com and view more of her designs at www.ravelry.com/designers/ vicarnos-mama. SPECIAL STITCHES Shell: Work 7tr in 1 ch or stitch. PATTERN NOTES This pattern uses a lot of slip stitches. Take your time to get used to making nice stretchy slip stitches by using a larger hook size. It is important to work the slip stitch rows to fit perfectly in the pattern rows, this means they must not be worked too loose or either too tight.

Tweed Top BY ANNELIES BAES

We love this tweedy yarn from Blacker, worked into a comfortable and flattering top and worn with a bit of positive ease. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure wool yarn from www.blackeryarns.co.uk

The top is constructed in four pieces that are joined seamlessly. Start with the centre front panel (piece 1), followed by the centre back panel (piece 2). Next the side parts are created, by picking up stitches along the sides of the centre panels, and working extra foundation stitches for the neckline (pieces 3 and 4). Sleeves are worked out from the tops of these side parts. Finish with the bottom and neckline edgings. 2ch at the beginning of a row does not count as 1 stitch. First stitch is made in the first ch or st, where the 2ch is.

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chain

ss front loops

treble crochet

ss back loops

shell tr back loops

FRONT & BACK PANELS 1ch at the beginning of a row counts as 1sl st (front or back loops). When starting side parts, stitches are picked up along the sides of the centre panel: for every four rows of the centre panel (two grey and two turquoise), work 6tr. Extra sts are worked for neckline using foundation trebles as follows: Yoh, insert hk into foundation ch of prev st, yoh, pull through, yoh, pull through 1 loop (ch created), yoh, pull through 2 loops, yoh, pull through 2 loops (tr created); rep for desired number of sts. Grey pattern parts are worked using 4.5mm hook. Turquoise pattern parts are worked in sl sts, using a 5.5mm hook. We recommend a large swatch to practise making stretchy and even sl sts – you might need to use a larger hook. Make sure your sl st rows fit into the pattern rows perfectly: they must not be too tight or too loose.

chain

slssstfront o loops

treble crochet

slssstback blo loops

shell tr blo back loops tr

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

FRONT PANEL Using 4.5mm hook and yarn A, 33 (35, 35, 37)ch. Row 1: (RS) 1tr in third ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 1 (2, 2, 3)ch, miss 3ch, Shell (see Special Stitches) in next ch, *miss 3ch, 1tr in each of next 3ch, miss 3ch, Shell in next ch; rep from * once more, miss 3ch, 1tr in each of next 2 (3, 3, 4)ch, turn – 10 (12, 12, 14)tr, 3 Shells. START

Row 2: (WS) 2ch (does not count as st here and throughout), 1tr in every tr, turn – 31 (33, 33, 35)tr. Change to yarn B and 5.5mm hook. Row 3: 1ch in first st, 1sl st flo in every next tr, turn – 31 (33, 33, 35)sl sts flo. Row 4: 1ch in first st, 1sl st blo in every st, turn – 31 (33, 33, 35)sl sts blo. Change to yarn A and 4.5mm hook. Row 5: 2ch, 2 (3, 3, 4)tr, miss

3 sts, Shell in next st, *miss 3 sts, 3tr, miss 3 sts, Shell in next st; rep from * once more, miss 3 sts, 2 (3, 3, 4)tr, turn – 10 (12, 12, 14)tr, 3 Shells. Row 6: Rep Row 2. Row 7: Rep Row 3. Row 8: Rep Row 4. Rows 5–8 form pattern and are repeated. Cont in patt until 42 (46, 46, 50) rows have been worked, ending with a Row 2 (yarn A) repeat. Cut yarn and fasten off. BACK PANEL Work as for Front Panel for 50 (54, 54, 58) rows ending with a Row 2 (yarn A) repeat. Cut yarn and fasten off. SIDE PART 1 With 4.5mm hook and RS of Front Panel facing, join yarn A at bottom with 1sl st. Row 1: (RS): 2ch (does not count as st here and throughout), work 64 (70, 70, 76)tr along entire front

centre panel picking up 6tr along each four rows. (If you are a stitch or two out, write down your exact number of stitches and be sure to work the same number on the other side). Work 18 (20, 22, 22) foundation tr (see Pattern Notes) for neckline. With RS facing, work 76 (82, 82, 88)tr down Back Panel, turn – 158 (172, 174, 186)tr. Row 2: (WS) 2ch, 1tr in every tr, turn – 158 (172, 174, 186)tr. Change to yarn B and 5.5mm hook. Row 3: 1ch in first st, 1sl st flo in every tr, turn – 158 (172, 174, 186) sl sts flo. Row 4: 1ch in first st, 1sl st blo in every st, turn – 158 (172, 174, 186)sl sts blo. Change to yarn A and 4.5mm hook. Row 5: 2ch, 1tr in every ch or sl st, turn – 158 (172, 174, 186)tr. Row 6: Rep Row 2. Row 7: Rep Row 3.

Row 8: Rep Row 4. Rows 5–8 form patt. Work another 8 (12, 14, 16) rows in patt, ending with yarn B (B, A, B). Cut yarn and fasten off. With RS together, close side seam by sl st tog, leaving 26 (27, 29, 32) sts on both Front and Back parts unseamed to form arm opening. SLEEVE The sleeve is worked straight on to the Side Part as follows: Sizes S, M & XL only With yarn A and 4.5mm hook, join yarn at underarm with sl st. Rnd 1: (RS) Tr around arm opening, sl st in first st to join, turn – 52 (54, -, 64)tr. Size L only With yarn B and 5.5mm hook, join yarn at underarm with sl st. Rnd 1: (RS) Sl st flo around arm opening, sl st in first sl st to join, turn – 58sl sts flo.

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17.5 (18, 19.5, 21)cm 7 (7¼, 7¾, 8¼)in

Rnd 2: (WS) 1ch in first st, sl st blo around, sl st in first st, to join, turn – 58sl sts blo.

Change to yarn B and 5.5mm hook. Rnd 3 (3, 5, 3): 1ch in first st, 1sl st flo in every st, sl st in first st to join, turn – 52 (54, 58, 64)sl sts flo.

3.5 (3.5, 6, 7)cm 1¼ (1¼, 2¼, 2½)in

20.5 (21.5, 21.5, 22.5)cm 8 (8½, 8½, 9)in

42 (46, 46, 50)cm 16½ (18, 18, 19¾)in

All Sizes With yarn A and 4.5mm hook. Rnd 2 (2, 4, 2): (WS) 2ch, 1tr in each st around, sl st in first tr, turn – 52 (54, 58, 64)tr.

53 (57.5, 58, 62)cm 21 (22¾, 23, 24½)in

Change to yarn A and 4.5mm hook. Rnd 3: 2ch, 1tr in every sl st and in starting ch, sl st in first tr, turn – 58tr.

Sizes S, M & L only Rnd 4 (4, 6): 1ch in first st, 1sl st flo around, sl st in first st to join, turn – 52 (54, 58)sl sts flo. Cut yarn and fasten off.

93 (105, 115, 123)cm

Size XL only Rnd 4: 1ch in first st, 1sl st blo around, close round with sl st in first st, turn – 64 sl sts flo.

36½ (41, 45½, 48½)in

Work two more rnds in tr with yarn A and 4.5mm hook, and two more rnds in sl st flo with yarn B and 5.5mm hook. Cut yarn and fasten off. SIDE PART 2 Work as for Side Part 1, but start by picking up sts along the Back Panel. NECK EDGING With RS facing and 5mm hook, join in yarn B to back of neck. Rnd 1: Sl st flo around entire neckline, sl st to first sl st to join, turn. Rnd 2: Rep last rnd. Cut yarn and fasten off. BOTTOM EDGING Work as for Neck Edging around entire bottom edge of garment. Cut yarn and fasten off. FINISHING Weave in all ends. Soak top for 15 minutes, block and allow to dry naturally.

S ACTUAL BUST CENTRE PANEL WIDTH LENGTH

END

M

L

XL

93

105

115

123

cm

36½

41

45½

48½

in

20.5

21.5

21.5

22.5

cm

8

9

in

53

57.5

58

62

cm

21

22¾

23

24¼

in

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 43

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Blacker Westcountry Tweed DK, 100% wool, 50g/110m/119yds Yarn A: Grey x 2 balls (1 ball only needed if also making the top) Yarn B: Turquoise x 1 ball ● 4.5mm, 5mm & 5.5mm hooks ● Yarn needle ● Scissors ● Pins and mat for blocking YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any heavy DK weight yarn, although it is advisable to use a tweed yarn to obtain a similar effect. TENSION Work 14tr and 8 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS To fit average sized female hand. Finished mitt: 24cm/9½in long and 11.5cm/4½in wide at the top and 9cm/3½in at the fingers. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Annelies Baes believes everything is possible in crochet. She enjoys trying out new techniques to achieve unique results, and loves to see more crocheted items in fashion. View more of her designs at www.ravelry.com/designers/ vicarnos-mama. SPECIAL STITCHES Shell: Work 7tr in next st.

Tweed Mitts BY ANNELIES BAES

You can never have too many fingerless mitts! This useful pair will keep your hands toasty and matches perfectly with the Tweed Top. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure wool yarn from www.blackeryarns.co.uk

PATTERN NOTES This pattern uses a lot of slip stitches. It is important to obtain the correct gauge when working these – not too loose, but not too tight either. We have indicated a larger hook size to use for the sl sts, but it is best to make a proper swatch to see which hook size works best for you. When changing colour from yarn A to yarn B, work the last pull through of the last st in yarn B. When changing back to yarn A finish the stitch in yarn B, turn work then sl st yarn A into the first st and continue carrying yarn B across the back of this first st. Do not turn at end of rounds.

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chain

ss front loops

treble crochet

ss back loops

shell tr back loops

MITTS With 5mm hook and yarn A, 40ch, sl st to first ch to join into a rnd. Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as first tr), 1tr in next ch, miss 3ch, Shell (see Special Stitches) in next ch, *miss 3ch, 1tr in each of next 3 ch, miss 3ch, Shell in next ch; rep from * twice more, miss 3ch, 1tr in last ch, sl st in third ch to join, do not turn – 4 Shells, 4 3tr groups. Rnd 2: 3ch (counts as first tr), 1tr in each tr around, sl st in third ch to join, do not turn – 40tr. START

Change to yarn B and 5.5mm hk. Rnd 3: 1ch (counts as 1sl st) in first st, 1sl st flo in each tr around, sl st in first ch to join, turn – 40sl sts flo. Rnd 4: 1ch (counts as 1sl st), 1sl st blo in each sl st around, sl st in first ch to join, turn – 40sl sts blo. Change to yarn A and 5mm hook. Rnd 5: Working in blo work 3ch (counts as first tr), 1tr in next st, miss 3 sts, Shell in next st, *miss 3 sts, 3tr, miss 3 sts, Shell in next st; rep from * twice more, miss 3 sts, 1tr in last st, sl st in third ch to join, do not turn – 4 Shells in blo, 4 3tr blo groups. Rnds 6–8: Rep Rnds 2–4. Rnds 9–12: Rep Rnds 5–8. Fasten off yarn B. Change to yarn A and 4.5mm hook. Rnd 13: (RS) Working in blo work 2ch (does not count as 1tr), [3tr, tr2tog] eight times, sl st in first tr to join, do not turn – 32tr blo. At this point ensure the 32 sts fit nicely around your wrist. If necessary, you can easily change the number of stitches in this round. Rnd 14: 2ch (does not count as 1tr), 1tr in each tr around, sl st in first tr to join, do not turn – 32tr. Rnds 15–19: Rep Rnd 14. Rnd 20: Miss first st, sl st in next 2 sts, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 28tr, 5ch, miss last st, sl st in third ch to join, do not turn – 29tr, 5ch. At this point try on the mitt to see if the 5ch-sp created is large enough for your thumb. If not, work more ch here.

chain

slssstfront flo loops

treble crochet

slssstback blo loops

shell back loops trtr blo

Rnd 21: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in every tr and ch around, sl st in third ch to join, do not turn – 34tr. Change to yarn B and 5.5mm hook. Rnd 22: 1ch (counts as 1sl st), 1sl st flo in every tr around, sl st in first ch to join, turn – 34sl sts flo. Rnd 23: (WS) 1ch (counts as 1sl st), 1sl st flo in every sl st around, sl st to first ch to join – 34sl sts flo. Cut yarn and fasten off. ARM EDGING With 5.5mm hook join yarn B to foundation ch with sl st. Rnd 1: (RS), 1sl st in every ch around, sl st in first sl st to join, turn – 40sl sts. Rnd 2: (WS) 1ch (counts as 1sl st), 1sl st flo in every sl st around, sl st in first ch to join – 40sl sts flo. Cut yarn and fasten off. FINISHING Weave in all ends. Soak mitts and roll them in a towel to remove excessive water. Lay flat on blocking mat, pin in shape if necessary END and allow to dry naturally. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 45

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

New Leaf Skirt BY SARRA MACKENZIE-PILOT

A floaty over skirt perfect for teaming up with a soft linen layer underneath.

MATERIALS ● Scheepjes Linen Soft, 47% cotton/27% linen/ 26% acrylic, 50g/135m/148yds Shade: 605 x 5 (6, 7) balls ● 5.5mm hook ● Sewing needle ● Elastic for waistband YARN ALTERNATIVES A DK weight cotton or bamboo yarn would also work well here and give a nice drape.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this colourful yarn from www.deramores.com

TENSION Work 13tr and 7 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 5.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS To fit: S (M, L). Actual waist circumference before adding elastic: 100 (122, 145)cm/39½ (48, 57)in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Sarra plays at Magpie & Goblin with her teenage daughter Katelyn. An avid designer and textile artist, Sarra has a passion for hand spinning and fibre

production. Find her on Facebook at www.facebook.com/magpie andgoblin and see more of her patterns at www.ravelry.com/ designers/sarra-mackenzie-pilot. WAISTBAND Using 5.5mm hook, 129 (161, 193)ch. Foundation Row: 1dc in second ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn – 128 (160, 192)dc. Row 1: 2ch (counts as first st), 127 (159, 191)htr, turn. Rows 2 & 3: Rep Row 1. Row 4: 2ch, 127 (159, 191)htrblo, turn. Rows 5–7: Rep Row 1. Row 8: Fold work over so the starting ch lies parallel to Row 7, 1ch, dc tog st at base of ch and first st on starting ch, cont to dc the two rows tog in this way to end, turn. START

Row 9: 3ch (counts as first tr), 127 (159, 191)tr, turn. Row 10–14: Rep Row 9. SKIRT Row 1: (RS) 1ch, 1htr, (3ch, miss 1tr, 1htr) twice, (5ch, miss 3tr,

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1htr) twice, *(3ch, miss 1tr, 1htr) four times, (5ch, miss 3tr, 1htr) twice; rep from * to last 4 sts, (3ch, miss 1tr, 1htr) twice, turn. Row 2: 4ch, 1htr in 3ch-sp, 3ch, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 5ch, 1tr in next htr, 5ch, *(1htr in next 3ch-sp, 3ch) three times, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 5ch, 1tr in top of htr, 5ch; rep from * to last two 3ch-sps, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 3ch, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 1ch, 1tr in top of last htr, turn. Row 3: 1ch, 1htr in top of tr, 3ch, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 5ch, (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in top of tr, 5ch, *(1htr in next 3ch-sp, 3ch) twice, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 5ch, (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in top of tr, 5ch; rep from * to last 3ch-sp, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 3ch, 1htr in third of 4ch, turn. Row 4: 4ch, *1htr in next 3ch-sp, 5ch, (1tr, 1ch) four times in next ch-sp, 1tr in same ch-sp, 5ch, 1htr in next 3ch-sp**, 3ch; rep from * ending last rep at **, 1ch, 1tr in htr, turn. Row 5: 8ch, *(1htr in next tr, 3ch) four times, 1htr in next tr, 5ch**, 1tr in next 3ch-sp, 5ch; rep from * ending last rep at **, 1tr in third of 4ch, turn. Row 6: 8ch, *(1htr in next 3ch-sp,

ch-sp, 1tr in same ch-sp, 5ch, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 3ch, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 5ch; rep from * to end, (1tr, 1ch, 1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in top of 3ch, turn. Row 9: 1ch, 1htr in top of tr, (3ch, 1htr in top of tr) twice, 5ch, 1tr in top of 3ch-sp, 5ch, *(1htr in top of tr, 3ch) four times, 1htr in top of tr, 5ch, 1tr in top of 3ch, 5ch; rep from * to last 5ch, 1htr in top of tr, 3ch, 1htr in top of tr, 3ch, 1htr in third of 4ch, turn. Rows 2–9 form pattern and are repeated. Repeat pattern eight (eight, nine) times, ending with Row 8. Hem Edging Row: 1ch, 5tr in 1ch-sp, (1dc, 5tr, 1dc) in 5ch-sp, * miss 1ch-sp, 5tr in next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next 1ch-sp, 5tr in next 1ch-sp, (1dc, 5tr, 1dc) in 5ch-sp, 5tr in 3ch-sp, (1dc, 5tr, 1dc) in 5ch-sp; rep from * to last two 1ch-sps, miss 1ch-sp, 5tr in last ch-sp, 1dc in third of 4ch. 3ch) three times, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 5ch**, 1tr in top of tr, 5ch; rep from * ending last rep at **, 1tr in third of 8ch, turn. Row 7: 3ch, 1tr in top of tr, *5ch, (1htr in next 3ch-sp, 3ch) twice, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 5ch**, (1tr,

1ch, 1tr) in top of tr; rep from * ending last rep at **, 2tr in third of 8ch, turn. Row 8: 4ch, (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in base of 4ch, 5ch, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 3ch, 1htr in next 3ch-sp, 5ch, *(1tr, 1ch) four times in next

FINISHING Fasten off, join seam, leaving the waistband open. Thread elastic through END and fasten together, sew seam to close.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 47

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Rowan Pure Wool Superwash DK, 100% wool, 50g/125m/137yds Shade: Shale 02 x 2 balls ● 4mm & 8mm hooks ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any DK weight wool yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Exact tension is not essential for this design. MEASUREMENTS Length: 80cm/31½in. Depth: 40cm/15¾in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Emma is author of Crochet Dress-Up, Big Hook Crochet and 35 Crochet Bags. You can find her as Steel&Stitch on Etsy, Blogspot, Instagram and LoveCrochet. PATTERN NOTES This pattern makes a rectangle of material which you sew up at the end to make the shrug. To make the garment bigger, add extra chain stitches at the beginning to get the desired width, ensuring the start chain is divisible by 4 + 2. Extra length can be added by working extra rows. SHRUG Using 8mm hook, 94ch. Row 1: 2tr in third ch from hk, 1ch [miss 3ch, 3tr in next ch, 1ch] to last 3ch, miss 2ch, 1tr in last ch, turn. Rows 2–25: 2ch, 2tr in ch-sp, 1ch [3tr in next ch-sp, 1ch] to end, 1tr in top of t-ch. Fasten off. START

Glamorous Granny Shrug BY EMMA FRIEDLANDER-COLLINS

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure wool yarn from www.laughinghens.com

A great way to begin a journey into making garments, this simple pattern uses a classic granny motif, and works up into a cosy bolero-style shrug.

FINISHING Block work before sewing up. Fold lengthways and sew approximately 10cm/4in together at either end to form underarm seam. BODY OPENING EDGING Using 4mm hook, working along 3tr cluster edge, work 1dc in each st and each ch

48 Inside Crochet

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Art Yarn Flowers BY HELEN FREE

These beautiful flowers are worked with a colourful hand-spun wired yarn to keep their shape.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this hand-spun yarn from www.lovespoolyarns.co.uk

around. When working along the edge with the starting ch, work 3dc around ch-sp and 1dc in centre of cluster.

SLEEVE EDGING With 4mm hook join yarn in any st, work 2tr around the edge of each tr.

END

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

MATERIALS ● Lovespool Wired Art Yarn, 5m Shades: Four colours of your choice, plus Green ● 6mm hook ● Paper-covered florist wire #22, 36cm/14in ● Brooch pin ● Yarn needle TENSION Exact tension is not essential for this pattern. MEASUREMENTS Corsage is 11cm/4¼in across. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Helen Free is a designer and tutor living in the Cambridgeshire Fens.

She loves working with colour and creating quirky designs. Find out more at www.enfys.me.uk. SPECIAL STITCHES 3 double treble cluster (3dtrcl): *Yarn twice round hook, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull through (4 lps on hook), (yrh and pull through 2 lps) twice; rep from * twice more inserting hook in same st each time, yrh and pull through all 5 lps. 2 treble cluster (2trcl): *Yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through, (3 lps on hook) yrh and pull through 2 lps; rep from * once more working into same st, yrh and pull through all 3 lps.

PATTERN NOTES The yarn amounts above are enough to make the two stemmed flowers and one corsage. Make the main flowers first, then use the small amounts left over in contrasting colours for the centres. DAISY Rnd 1: 2ch, *1dc in first ch, 5ch, sl st in second ch from hook, 1dc in next ch, 1htr in next 2ch; rep from * six more times, sl st to second ch – 7 petals. Fasten off and sew in ends. START

LARGE FLOWER Rnd 1: 2ch, 5dc in second ch from hook, sl st to first dc. Rnd 2: 1ch, (3ch, 3dtrcl (see Special Stitches), 3ch, sl st) in each dc – 5 petals. Fasten off and sew in ends. SMALL FLOWER Make an adjustable ring, (3ch, 2trcl, 3ch, sl st) five times in ring. Fasten off. CENTRE Using yarn left over from the main flowers, 3ch, 2trcl (see Special Stitches) in first ch, fasten off. Thread the ends through the centre of the flower and fasten firmly at the back. LEAF With Green, 7ch, sl st in second ch from hook, 1dc in next ch, 1htr in next ch, 1tr in each of next 2ch, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch, 2ch, 1dc in second ch from hook, working in opposite side of 7ch, miss first ch,

(1tr, 1htr) in next ch, 1tr in each of next 2ch, 1htr in next ch, 1dc in next ch, sl st in next ch. Fasten off. STEMMED FLOWERS Make one Daisy and one Large Flower as above, plus Centres, and one Leaf. STEMS With Green, starting about 25cm/10in along, make a slip knot on the hook, 5ch, dc in second ch from hook, 1tr in next 2ch, (1dc, sl st) in next ch, fasten off leaving a 15cm/6in end. Using the 25cm/10in end thread up through the flower on one side of the centre and back down through flower on the other side of the centre making sure the ends are level. Fold a piece of florist wire in half and thread it down through the centre in the same places as the yarn. Twist all four strands together, folding excess yarn back up to cover the ends of the florist wire and trim ends. The wire in the yarn should hold the ends in place but use a dab of glue if you want to be sure. CORSAGE Make one Large Flower, one Small Flower, one Centre and one Leaf. Place Small Flower in front of Large Flower and thread Centre ends through the centre of both. Fasten firmly at the back. Sew the Leaf and brooch END pin in place behind the large flower.

50 Inside Crochet

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Hygge by Kirsten Ballering

Shawl pictured worked in Pastel kit

S C H E E PJ E S C A L 2017

The Scheepjes CAL 2017 starts on February 15th. Over 13 weeks and 1 optional finishing week you will create a beautiful winter warmer shawl. Every Wednesday a new part of the pattern will be released. The patterns are available in English UK terminology as well as US terminology, Dutch and Swedish. Join our Scheepjes CAL through the Facebook group: www.facebook.com/groups/ScheepjesCAL.International To join this CAL, there are 3 kits available, each one a different colour theme: Rainbow, Pastel and Jewel. R.R.P. €48.20, £40.79, USD $49.99. Scheepjes CAL 2017 kits are available from Scheepjes stockists at the beginning of February 2017

WWW.SCHEEPJES.COM

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this vintage-look yarn from www.blacksheepwools.com

MATERIALS ● Stylecraft Batik DK, 80% acrylic/20% wool, 50g/138m/151yds Yarn A: Cream 1900 x 1 ball Yarn B: Biscuit 1901 x 1 ball Yarn C: Old Gold 1902 x 1 ball Yarn D: Coral 1903 x 1 ball Yarn E: Cherry 1904 x 1 ball Yarn F: Raspberry 1905 x 1 ball Yarn G: Heather 1906 x 1 ball Yarn H: Plum 1907 x 1 ball Yarn I: Sage 1908 x 1 ball Yarn J: Teal 1909 x 1 ball Yarn K: Pistachio 1910 x 1 ball Yarn L: Olive 1911 x 1 ball Yarn M: Violet 1912 x 1 ball Yarn N: Storm 1913 x 1 ball Yarn O: Indigo 1914 x 1 ball Yarn P: Graphite 1915 x 1 ball ● 4mm hook TENSION Exact tension is not necessary for this design. MEASUREMENTS Finished scarf measures 24 x 180cm/9½ x 71in. Each motif measures 8 x 8cm/ 3¼ x 3¼in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Helda is hopelessly devoted to yarn, and is constantly working to transform it to modern wearable crochet. She can be found at www.heldasland.blogspot.co.uk. SPECIAL STITCHES Bobble: Yoh, insert hk in st, yoh, pull up a lp (3 lps on hk), yoh, pull through 2 lps (2 lps on hk), *yoh, insert hk in same st, yoh, pull up a lp, yoh, pull though 2 lps; rep from * three times until you have 5 lps on hook, yoh and pull through all 5 rem lps.

Van Gogh Scarf BY HELDA PANAGARY

This stunning scarf shows off a gorgeous colourful yarn with a simple but effective floral motif and lace border.

PATTERN NOTES Make four Flower Motifs at a time, joining them on Rnd 3 using the join-as-you-go method. This creates a larger square of two Motifs across and two down. Use the following colour combinations for the Motifs and borders in each large square, making nine large squares in total: LARGE SQUARE 1 Rnd 1: Yarn J. Rnd 2: Yarn D. Rnd 3: Yarn L.

52 Inside Crochet

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Van Gough Scarf Chart

adjustable ring chain stitch (ch) slip stitch (sl st)

3

join as you go here (marked blue) double crochet (dc)

3 2

1

2 1

half treble crochet (htr) treble crochet (tr) bobble double treble crochet (dtr)

BR

BR

Border Round

4

Rnd 1: Yarn J. Rnd 2: Yarn G. Rnd 3: Yarn C. Rnd 1: Yarn C. Rnd 2: Yarn E. Rnd 3: Yarn H. Rnd 1: Yarn D. Rnd 2: Yarn G. Rnd 3: Yarn C. Border these four with yarn B.

Rnd 1: Yarn O. Rnd 2: Yarn E. Rnd 3: Yarn I. Border these four with yarn C.

LARGE SQUARE 2 Rnd 1: Yarn M. Rnd 2: Yarn J. Rnd 3: Yarn L.

LARGE SQUARE 4 Rnd 1: Yarn D. Rnd 2: Yarn O. Rnd 3: Yarn M.

adjustable ring

Rnd 1: Yarn J. Rnd 2 Yarn H. Rnd 3: Yarn P.

chain Rnd stitch 2: Yarn G.(ch)

Rnd 1: Yarn C. Rnd 2: Yarn M. Rnd 3: Yarn K.

joinRnd as2:you Yarn I.go here (marked blue)

Rnd 1: Yarn B. Rnd 2: Yarn D. Rnd 3: Yarn G. Border these four with yarn L.

Rnd 1: Yarn N. Rnd 2: Yarn H. halfRnd treble (htr) 3: Yarncrochet E. Border these four with yarn D.

Rnd 1: Yarn C.

Rnd 3: Yarn K.

slip stitch (sl st) Rnd 1: Yarn O. Rnd 3: Yarn N.

LARGE SQUARE 3 Rnd 1: Yarn G. Rnd 2: Yarn B. Rnd 3: Yarn D.

treble crochet (tr) LARGE SQUARE 5 Rnd 1: Yarn J. bobble Rnd 2: Yarn I. Rnd 3: Yarn C.

Rnd 1:treble Yarn O. crochet (dtr) double

Rnd 1: Yarn I. Rnd 2: Yarn G. Rnd 3: Yarn A. Rnd 1: Yarn L. Rnd 2: Yarn K. Rnd 3: Yarn M.

double crochet (dc)

Rnd 2: Yarn B. Rnd 3: Yarn K.

BR

Border Rnd 1:Round Yarn J. Rnd 2: Yarn P. Rnd 3: Yarn O. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 53

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Rnd 1: Yarn J. Rnd 2: Yarn E. Rnd 3: Yarn D. Border these four with yarn K. LARGE SQUARE 6 Rnd 1: Yarn D. Rnd 2: Yarn I. Rnd 3: Yarn P. Rnd 1: Yarn K. Rnd 2: Yarn F. Rnd 3: Yarn M. Rnd 1: Yarn D. Rnd 2: Yarn J. Rnd 3: Yarn B. Rnd 1: Yarn O. Rnd 2: Yarn E. Rnd 3: Yarn B. Border these four with yarn I. LARGE SQUARE 7 Rnd 1: Yarn H. Rnd 2: Yarn I. Rnd 3: Yarn G. Rnd 1: Yarn L. Rnd 2: Yarn E. Rnd 3: Yarn K. Rnd 1: Yarn H.

Rnd 2: Yarn J. Rnd 3: Yarn B. Rnd 1: Yarn P. Rnd 2: Yarn M. Rnd 3: Yarn D. Border these four with yarn G. LARGE SQUARE 8 Rnd 1: Yarn K. Rnd 2: Yarn P. Rnd 3: Yarn H. Rnd 1: Yarn B. Rnd 2: Yarn G. Rnd 3: Yarn I. Rnd 1: Yarn O. Rnd 2: Yarn E. Rnd 3: Yarn C. Rnd 1: Yarn G. Rnd 2: Yarn K. Rnd 3: Yarn D. Border these four with yarn L. LARGE SQUARE 9 Rnd 1: Yarn N. Rnd 2: Yarn I. Rnd 3: Yarn O. Rnd 1: Yarn M. Rnd 2: Yarn H.

Rnd 3: Yarn C.

around large square as folls:

Rnd 1: Yarn D. Rnd 2: Yarn E. Rnd 3: Yarn F.

Border Rnd: Beg in any corner 3ch-sp, 3ch, (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) in same 3ch-sp, 1ch, 3tr in each of next six ch-sps, 1ch, *(3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in next corner, 1ch, 3tr in each of next six ch-sps, 1ch; rep from * to end, sl st to join. Fasten off.

Rnd 1: Yarn K. Rnd 2: Yarn I. Rnd 3: Yarn L. Border these four with yarn A. FLOWER MOTIF START With 4mm hook make an adjustable ring with yarn as specified above. Rnd 1: 2ch (counts as 1dc), 7dc in ring, sl st to top of 2ch to join – 8dc. Cut yarn and weave in ends. Rnd 2: Join next colour in any dc, 3ch, Bobble (see Special Stitches) in same dc, 1ch, [Bobble in next st, 1ch] around, join with a sl st. Rnd 3: Join next colour in any ch-sp, 5ch (counts as 1dtr), (2dtr, 3ch, 3dtr) in same sp, (first corner made), 1ch, *3tr in next ch-sp, 1ch, (3dtr, 3ch, 3dtr) in next ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * around, sl st to join. Make three more Motifs using colours as specified in Pattern Notes, joining as you go to make one large square. Work border

Make another eight large squares. Join each large square to the next. SCARF EDGING Rnd 1: Using yarn C work 1dc in every st and 3dc in every 3ch-sp around, sl st to join to a rnd. Rnd 2: 2ch (counts as first dc), work 1dc in each dc, and 3dc in each corner dc around, sl st to join. Rnd 3: 4ch (counts as 1tr, 1ch) miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, *[1ch, miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc] to corner sp, 1ch, (1tr, 3ch, 1tr) in corner; rep from * around, sl st to join. Rnd 4: (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in corner 3ch-sp, sl st in next ch-sp, *(2tr, 3ch, 2tr) in next ch-sp, sl st in next ch-sp rep from * to corner, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in corner 3ch-sp; rep from * around, sl st to join. END Fasten off and weave in all ends.

54 Inside Crochet

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MATERIALS ● Scheepjes Maxi Bonbon, 100% cotton, 25g/140m/153yds Yarn A: Hot Red 115 x 1 ball Yarn B: Royal Blue 215 x 1 ball (Note: Only small amounts needed of each shade) ● 2mm hook ● Nine 8mm jump rings ● 4mm jump ring ● Jewellery clasp ● Pair of earring hooks TENSION Exact tension is not crucial for this pattern.

Circles Jewellery Set BY RHIAN DRINKWATER

Use this issue’s free jewellery set to make our on-trend bracelet and earrings.

MEASUREMENTS Bracelet circles are 3cm/ 1¼in across. Bracelet is 20cm/7¾in long without findings. Earring circles are 2.5cm/ 1in across. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Rhian is a crochet and knitting designer and the editor of Inside Crochet. She likes practical projects that fit into your wardrobe, and tries to design garments and accessories that can be worn every day. BRACELET CIRCLE 1 Using 2mm hook, join yarn A to 8mm jump ring with a sl st. Rnd 1: 1ch (does not count as st), 12dc around jump ring, sl st to join – 12dc. Rnd 2: 2ch (counts as first tr), 1tr in same st, 2tr in each st around, sl st to join – 24tr. ** Rnd 3: 1ch (does not count as st), 1dc in same st, 2dc in next st, [1dc, START

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure cotton yarn from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

2dc in next st] around, sl st to join – 36dc. Fasten off. CIRCLE 2 Using yarn B, work as Circle 1 to **. Rnd 3: 1ch (does not count as st), 1dc in same st, 2dc in next st, [1dc, 2dc in next st] twice, 1dc, sl st into dc on Rnd 3 of Circle 1, 2dc in next st, miss 1 st on Circle 1, sl st into next st on Circle 1, [1dc, 2dc in next st] around, sl st to join – 36dc. Fasten off. CIRCLES 3–7 Work as Circle 2, alternating yarns A & B around. FINISHING Attach 4mm jump ring to one end of circles and jewellery clasp to the other, using yarn A. END Weave in ends and trim. EARRINGS Make two Using 2mm hook, join yarn A to 8mm jump ring with a sl st. Rnd 1: 1ch (does not count as st), 12dc around jump ring, sl st to join – 12dc. Fasten off. START

Join yarn B in any st of Rnd 1. Rnd 2: 2ch (counts as first tr), 1tr in same st, 2tr in each st around, sl st to join – 24tr. Fasten off, leaving 20cm/7¾in yarn end. FINISHING Using yarn end, attach to earring hook. Weave in ends and trim.

END

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IC#86 IC#86_56-57[subs]SP2.indd 57

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Rico Baby Cotton Soft, 50% acrylic/50% cotton, 50g/125m/136yds Yarn A: Pink 002 x 1 ball Yarn B: Silver 025 x 1 ball Yarn C: Black 027 x 1 ball ● 3mm hook ● Stitch marker ● Yarn needle ● Pipe cleaners YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any DK weight yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Exact tension is not critical for this pattern. MEASUREMENTS Flamingoes are approximately 30cm/12in high. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Liz is passionate about amigurumi, creating patterns that are cute and quirky but always easy to understand. Read Liz’s blog at www. amigurumibarmy.blogspot.co.uk. PATTERN NOTES This pattern is worked continuously in the round without joining. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the rounds, moving it up as each round is completed. HEAD AND BODY With 3mm hook and yarn A, make an adjustable ring, 6dc in ring – 6dc. Rnd 1: 2dc in each st to end – 12dc. Rnd 2: [1dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 18dc. Rnd 3: [2dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 24dc. Rnds 4 & 5: Dc around. Rnd 6: [Dc2tog, 2dc] to end – 18dc. Rnd 7: [Dc2tog, 1dc] to end – 12dc. Stuff the head here. START

Flamingo Couple BY LIZ WARD

This cute couple of amigurumi birds is bang on trend and would make a unique romantic gift or wedding present. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this great value yarn from www.purplelindacrafts.co.uk

Rnd 8: Dc2tog to end – 6dc. Rnds 9–38: Dc around. Rnd 39: 2dc in each st to end – 12dc. Rnd 40: [1dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 18dc. Rnd 41: [2dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 24dc. Rnd 42: [3dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 30dc. Rnds 43–49: Dc around. Stuff the neck with pipe cleaners here.

58 Inside Crochet

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Rnd 50: [Dc2tog, 8dc] to end – 27dc. Rnd 51: [Dc2tog, 7dc] to end – 24dc. Rnd 52: [Dc2tog, 6dc] to end – 21dc. Rnd 53: [Dc2tog, 5dc] to end – 18dc. Rnd 54: [Dc2tog, 4dc] to end – 15dc. Rnd 55: [Dc2tog, 3dc] to end – 12dc. Stuff the body here. Rnd 56: [Dc2tog, 2dc] to end – 9dc. Rnd 57: [Dc2tog, 1dc] to end – 6dc. Fasten off and sew closed the hole at the back of the body. Weave in and trim any loose ends. LEGS Make two per bird With 3mm hook and yarn B, make an adjustable ring, 6dc in ring – 6dc. Rnds 1–15: Dc around. Rnd 16: [1dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 9dc. Rnds 17 & 18: Dc around. Rnd 19: [Dc2tog, 1dc] to end – 6dc. Rnds 20–34: Dc around. Fasten off. Stuff with pipe cleaners. Sew to the underside of body. BEAK PART ONE Make one each for each bird With 3mm hook and yarn A, make an adjustable ring, 6dc in ring – 6dc.

Rnd 1: [1dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 9dc. Rnd 2: Dc around. Fasten off, stuff and sew in place on to head. BEAK PART TWO Make one for each bird With 3mm hook and yarn C, make an adjustable ring, 4dc in ring – 4dc. Rnds 1– 5: 2dc in first st, 1dc in each st to end – 9dc. Fasten off, stuff and sew onto Beak part one. WINGS Make two for each bird With 3mm hook and yarn A, 5ch. Rnd 1: Sl st in second ch from hook, 1dc in next ch, 1htr in next ch, 3htr in next ch, turn and work along other side of foundation ch, 1htr in next st, 1dc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off and sew onto body using photo as a guide for positioning. FINISHING Use yarn C to embroider French knots for eyes. Weave in and cut off any loose ends. Bend the neck and the legs into required shape.

END

Heart Stripe Socks BY SARRA MACKENZIE-PILOT

The best way to say “I love you” is to yourself… with a pair of the cutest heart socks ever!

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this great value yarn from www.wyspinners.com

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 59

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12/01/2017 12:57


MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

MATERIALS ● West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply, 75% wool/ 25% nylon, 100g/400m/437yds Yarn A: Cherry Drop 529 x 1 ball Yarn B: Milk Bottle 010 x 1 ball ● 3.5mm hook YARN ALTERNATIVES For a luxury feel in more muted tones, Regia Silk 4ply can be used. MEASUREMENTS Socks are made to fit approximately size 3–5 (6–8) foot, though length can be adjusted to fit. There is no difference in the circumference sizing, but a slightly longer foot will allow for more stretch widthways. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Sarra plays at Magpie & Goblin with her teenage daughter Katelyn. An avid designer, gluten free soap maker and textile artist, Sarra has a passion for hand spinning and fibre production. Find her on Facebook at www. facebook.com/magpieandgoblin. SPECIAL STITCHES 3trcl: *Yoh, insert hook in st, yoh, pull through, yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook; rep from * twice, yoh, pull through all 4 loops on hook. PATTERN NOTES 1ch at start of row does not count as stitch throughout. TOE Using 3.5mm hook and yarn A, 25ch. Foundation Row: 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each ch to end, turn – 24dc. Row 1: 1ch, 23dc, turn. Row 2: 1ch, 22dc, turn. Continue to work in this way, working 1dc in each dc across and leaving last dc unworked until 12dc remain, turn – 12 sts. START

Row 13: 1ch, 12dc, sl st in side edge of row below, turn – 12 sts. Row 14: 1ch, miss sl st, 12dc, 1dc into missed dc on row below, sl st in side edge of next row below, turn – 13 sts. Row 15: 1ch, miss sl st, 13dc, 1dc into missed dc on row below, sl st in side edge of next

row below, turn – 14 sts. Rows 16–25: Rep Row 15 until all missed sts are used. Omit sl st on last row – 24 sts. Do not turn. Work in rounds for the foot. FOOT Rnd 1: Change to yarn B, 3ch, miss 1dc, 1dc, *2ch, miss 1dc, 1dc; rep from * to end, join with sl st in first of 3ch – 24 loops. Rnd 2: Sl st in first loop, (3ch, 3trcl (see Special Stitches), 1ch, 3trcl) in same loop, *miss next loop, (3trcl, 1ch, 3trcl) in next loop; rep from * to end missing last loop, join with sl st in top of 3ch. Rnd 3: Sl st in first 1ch-sp, change to yarn A, (3ch, 3trcl, 1ch, 3trcl) in same 1ch-sp, * (3trcl, 1ch, 3trcl) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * to end, join with sl st in top of 3ch. Changing colour every rnd, rep Rnd 3 until 9 (11) rnds have been worked, or until foot is approximately 5cm/2in shorter than desired length. Finish with a round in yarn B.

were on the foot. This allows more stretch over the ankle when putting on the sock. Rnd 1: Sl st in 1ch-sp of cluster group on main foot, change to yarn A, 3ch, *(3trcl, 1ch, 3trcl) in 1ch-sp, work in pattern all round, join with sl st in top of 3ch. Continue in pattern for seven more rows, changing colour each rnd.

Rnd 9: With yarn A, 3ch, 1tr in top of cluster,* miss 1ch-sp, 2tr in next cluster; rep from * to end, join with sl st in top of 3ch – 52tr. Rnd 10: 2ch (does not count as st), *rtrf, rtrb; rep to end, join with sl st in top of 2ch. Rep last row three times. Fasten off and weave in ends.

END

HEEL Row 1: Change to yarn A, 1ch, 2dc into the top of each of next 12 cls across the base of the foot, turn – 24dc. Row 2: 1ch, 24dc, turn. Row 3: 1ch, 23dc, turn. Rows 4–13: 1ch, 1dc in each dc across leaving last dc unworked until 12dc, turn. Rows 14–26: Rep rows 13–25 of Toe, turn – 24dc across heel. Dc back to the starting ch side of the foot pattern, turn. CUFF Change to yarn B. Row 1: (WS) 3ch (first ch counts as dc), miss 1dc, 1dc, *miss 1dc, 2ch, 1dc; rep from * over the heel, adding in an extra loop on the far side over the worked heel edge (13 heel loops), 3ch, sl st in top edge of cluster on right side of heel, turn. Row 2: (RS) 3ch, (3trcl, 1ch, 3trcl) in next 2ch loop, miss next loop, (3trcl, 1ch, 3trcl) in next loop, continue all round until last loop, sl st to the space between the clusters on the row below on left side of heel. There are now 13 clusters around the sock, rather than 12 as there

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MATERIALS ● Cascade Ultra Pima Fine, 100% cotton, 50g/125m/137yds Yarn MC: True Black 3754 x 2 balls Yarn A: Tangerine 3750 x 1 ball Yarn B: Buttercup 3748 x 1 ball Yarn C: Paprika 3771 x 1 ball Yarn D: Natural 3718 x 1 ball Yarn E: Sand 3717 x 1 ball Yarn F: Spring Crocus 3815 x 1 ball Yarn G: Grapeade 3816 x 1 ball Yarn H: Coral 3752 x 1 ball Yarn I: Deep Coral 3767 x 1 ball ● 4mm hook ● Yarn needle TENSION Work Rnds 1 & 2 of Lace Flower to measure 7cm/2¾in in diameter, using 4mm hook or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Each Flower motif measures 9.5cm/3¾in in diameter. Finished shawl is 46 x 132cm/ 18 x 52in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Carmen is passionate about crochet and colour, and loves taking simple patterns and vibrant colour combinations to create beautiful projects. Find her on Instagram @anniedesigncrochet.

Lace Flower Shawl BY CARMEN HEFFERNAN

Once you’ve chosen the colours for this pretty motif shawl there’s no need to think about how to combine them – simply pick a yarn at random, start to stitch and relax.

This pretty pattern was taken from Crochet Yourself Calm by Carmen Heffernan (Search Press, £10.99). Turn to page 12 for our review.

PATTERN NOTES After completing first motif, the remaining motifs are joined in all the 3ch-sps while making Rnd 5, and in the 5ch-sps from Rnd 5. Make a total of 48 motifs using yarns A–I in different colour combinations of your choice. LACE FLOWER Make 48 Using any of yarns A–I (see Pattern Notes), make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 4ch (counts as 1tr, 1ch), *make 1tr, 1ch into the ring; rep from * six more times, join with a sl st to third of beg 4ch – 8tr, 8 1ch-sps. Fasten off. Rnd 2: Using next yarn, join in the top of any tr, 1ch, make 1dc in the same st, *3ch, dtr3tog in the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, make 1dc in the next tr; rep from * seven more times, ending the last st with a sl st in the first dc – 8 dtr3tog clusters. Fasten off. START

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Rnd 3: Using next yarn, join in any dc from Rnd 2, 5ch (counts as 1tr, 2ch), make 1dc in the top of the next dtr3tog cl, *2ch, make 1tr in the next dc, 2ch, make 1dc in the next dtr3tog cl; rep from * six more times, 1ch, join with 1htr in third of beg 5ch (counts as last 2ch-sp). Do not fasten off. Rnd 4: 1ch, make 1dc under the htr just made, 4ch, *1dc in the next 2ch-sp, 4ch; rep from * around, join with a sl st in the first dc. Fasten off. Weave in the ends with a yarn needle. MAKING UP Lay out your motifs on a table in a pleasing combination. FIRST MOTIF Rnd 5: Using yarn MC, join in any 4ch-sp, 1ch and make 1dc in the same space, (3ch, 1dc in next 4ch-sp) twice, * 3ch, (tr2tog, 5ch, tr2tog) in next 4ch-sp, (3ch, 1dc in next 4ch-sp) three times; rep from * twice more, 3ch, (tr2tog, 5ch, tr2tog) in next 4ch-sp, 3ch, join with a sl st to the first dc made. Fasten off. SUBSEQUENT MOTIFS With RS facing and starting at the top right corner of your shawl, join the second motif as follows: Rnd 5: (Joining Rnd) Using yarn MC, join in any 4ch-sp, 1ch and make 1dc in the same space, (3ch, 1dc in next 4ch-sp) twice, 3ch, (tr2tog, 2ch, sl st in corresponding corner 5ch-sp in the first motif, 2ch, tr2tog) in the next 4ch-sp, (1ch, sl st

in corresponding 3ch-sp in the first motif, 1ch, 1dc in the next 4ch-sp) three times, 1ch, sl st in corresponding 3ch-sp in first motif, 1ch, (tr2tog, 2ch, sl st in corresponding corner 5ch-sp in the first motif, 2ch, tr2tog) in next 4ch-sp, *(3ch, 1dc in next 4ch-sp) three times, 3ch, (tr2tog, 5ch, tr2tog) in next 4ch-sp; rep from * once more, 3ch, join with a sl st to the first dc made. Fasten off. Continue to join each motif to the previous one like this until you have a strip of four motifs. You will continue joining each row in the same way until you have 12 rows of four motifs. When joining to two motifs, sl st into the corner of the motif directly above. When joining to three motifs, sl st into the centre where three motifs meet. Weave in the ends with a yarn needle. BORDER Join yarn MC in any 3ch-sp, 1ch and make *1dc in same space, 3ch, make 1tr in dc just made, make 1dc in next 3ch-sp; rep from * around all four sides; work (1dc in the same space, 3ch, 1tr in dc just made) twice, in the corner 5ch-sps, join with a sl st to the first dc made. Fasten off. END Block the shawl into shape by steaming.

Forget-Me-Not Jewellery BY STEFFI GLAVES

Use this pretty floral motif for jewellery, appliqués, and celebrating springtime!

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FORGET-ME-NOT MATERIALS ● Gütterman Hand Quilting Cotton, 100% cotton, 200m/219yds per spool Yarn A: Blue 5765 x 1 spool Yarn B: White 5709 x 1 spool Yarn C: Yellow 758 x 1 spool ● 0.6mm hook ● Fine bead embroidery needle ● Rubber thimble (optional) ● E6000 Glue or two-part epoxy resin ● Ear studs with 7mm flat disc ● Earring butterfly backs ● Nail file or sandpaper ● Small jewellery pliers ● 4mm jump ring YARN ALTERNATIVES You can also use mercerised crochet cotton in thread size 80 for this design. Using the same cotton brand is not essential for the whites of the forget-me-nots; standard sewing thread will look just as good. TENSION Exact tension is not critical for this design.

MEASUREMENTS The forget-me-not measures approximately 1cm/½in diameter. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Steffi is a jewellery designer whose love of crochet came about through her fascination with tiny things and a need to be kept occupied through lengthy bus journeys. Find her on her website at www.steffiglaves.co.uk. FORGET-ME-NOT With yarn C and 0.6mm hook, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 10dc in ring, join with sl st changing to yarn A on last pull through – 10 sts. Rnd 2: *(3ch, 1tr) in same dc, 1ch, (1tr, 3ch, sl st) in next dc, sl st in next dc; rep from * to end – five petals or 10 sts,15ch-sps. Rnd 3: Sl st into Rnd 1, *4dc in next 3ch-sp on Rnd 2, (1dc, 2ch,1dc) in next ch-sp, 4dc in 3ch-sp, sl st in Rnd 1 dc, sl st in next Rnd 1 dc; rep from * to end – 50 sts, 5ch-sps. Sew in and trim ends. START

ATTACHING JUMP RING

BACKING DISC

Leave enough excess thread for sewing onto back of forget-me-not.

To make the little white V shapes between the petals, double up yarn C, and sew from between each petal into the dc sts of Rnd 1. Weave in and trim ends. PENDANT BACKING DISC With yarn A and 0.6mm hook, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 10dc in ring, join with sl st – 10 sts. Rnd 2: 2dc in each st to end, join with sl st – 20 sts.

MAKING UP Poke jump ring through the centre of backing disc and close with pliers. Use excess thread to sew disc onto back of forget-me-not. The jump ring should sit between two petals as shown in diagram. EAR STUDS For a better surface for bonding the cotton to metal, rough up the ear stud discs with nail file or sandpaper. Glue ear studs to the back of the forget-me-not and leave END to dry for 24 hours before wearing. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 65

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rib


MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Stylecraft Special Aran, 100% acrylic, 100g/196m/214yds Yarn A: Gold 1709 x 3 balls Yarn B: Lipstick 1246 x 3 balls Yarn C: White 1001 x 1 ball ● 4mm hook ● Four buttons, 40mm/1½in ● Two cushion pads, 40cm/16in ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any aran weight acrylic to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work 16dc and 20 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS To fit 40cm/16in cushion pads. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Helen Free is a designer and tutor living in the Cambridgeshire Fens. She loves working with colour and creating quirky designs as you can see at her website, www.enfys.me.uk.

Beer & Crisps Cushions

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this great value yarn from www.enfys.me.uk

BY HELEN FREE

Sit back and relax with a pint of beer and a packet of crisps – in fun crocheted cushion form!

SPECIAL STITCHES Treble cluster (trcl): *Yoh, insert hook in st, yoh and pull through a loop, yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook; rep from * twice, yoh and pull through all 4 loops on hook. Raised treble back (rtrb): Yoh, insert hook from back to front to back again around post of stitch from previous row, yoh and complete treble as usual. Raised treble front (rtrf): Yoh, insert hook from front to back to front again around post of stitch from previous row, yoh and complete treble as usual. Double crochet in back loop only (dcblo): Work a double crochet through the back loop only of next stitch. Double crochet in back loop only (dcflo): Work a double crochet through the front loop only of next stitch. PATTERN NOTES 1ch at beginning of dc rows is not counted as a stitch unless otherwise stated. Foundation chain: Work into the back loop of the foundation chain unless otherwise stated. This gives

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a neater finish, making both the bottom and top of the work look the same. P2m: Place markers in last 2 sts. PINT OF BEER With yarn A, 99ch. Row 1: 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 28ch, p2m (see Pattern Notes), 1dc in each of next 44ch, p2m, 1dc in each of next 26ch, turn – 98 sts. Row 2: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 3: 1ch, 25dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 40dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 25dc, turn – 102 sts. Rows 4–6: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 7: 1ch, 26dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 42dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 26dc, turn – 106 sts. Rows 8–10: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 11: 1ch, 27dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 44dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 27dc, turn – 110 sts. Rows 12–14: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 15: 1ch, 28dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 46dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 28dc, turn – 114 sts. Rows 16–18: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 19: 1ch, 29dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 48dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 29dc, turn – 118 sts. START

Rows 20–22: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 23: 1ch, 30dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 50dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 30dc, turn – 122 sts. Row 24: 1ch, 114dc, 4ch, miss 4dc, 4dc, turn. Row 25: 1ch, 4dc, 1dc in each of next 4ch, 114dc, turn – 122 sts. Row 26: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 27: 1ch, 31dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 52dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 31dc, turn – 126 sts. Rows 28–30: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 31: 1ch, 32dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 54dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 32dc, turn – 130 sts. Rows 32–34: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 35: 1ch, 33dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 56dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 33dc, turn – 134 sts. Rows 36–38: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 39: 1ch, 34dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 58dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 34dc, turn – 138 sts. Rows 40–49: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 50: 1ch, 130dc, 4ch, miss 4dc, 4dc, turn. Row 51: 1ch, 4dc, 1dc in each of next 4ch, 130dc, turn. Row 52: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 53: 1ch, 35dcflo (see Special Stitches), 2dcflo in each of next

4dc, 60dcflo, 2dcflo in each of next 4dc, 35dcflo, turn – 146 sts. Rows 54 & 55: 1ch, dc to end. Row 56: 1ch, 34dcflo, [miss 1dc, 1dcflo] three times, miss 1dc, 60dcflo, [miss 1dc, 1dcflo] three times, miss 1dc, 34dcflo – 138 sts. Fasten off and sew in ends. Row 57: Using yarn A, and working in back loops only of Row 53, attach yarn to first dc with dc st, dcblo (see Special Stitches) in each dc to end, turn – 138 sts. Row 58: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 59: 1ch, line up Row 56 with Row 58 and working though both rows at the same time, 1dc in each pair of dc to the end, turn. Rows 60–73: 1ch, dc to end, turn.

Change to yarn C. Row 74: 1ch, 4dc, [1trcl (see Special Stitches), 3dc] 33 times, 1trcl, 1dc, turn – 138 sts. Row 75: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 76: 1ch, 2dc, [1trcl, 3dc] 33 times, 1trcl, 3dc, turn – 138 sts. Row 77: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Rows 78–81: 1ch, rep Rows 74–77, turn – 138 sts. Row 82: 1ch, 4dc, [1trcl, 3dc] eight times, 1trcl, 2dc, p2m, 2dc, [1trcl, 3dc] 14 times, 1trcl, 2dc, p2m, 2dc, [1trcl, 3dc] eight times, 1trcl, 3dc – 138 sts. Fasten off and sew in ends. Fold at the markers making sure that buttonholes are to the outside.

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

MAKING UP BOTTOM EDGING With yarn A and RS facing, insert hook through both marked stitches on the right, yoh and pull a loop through first st, 1ch, 1dc in same st, working through two layers, 16dc, working through all three layers, 10dc, working through two layers, 17dc, fasten off and sew in ends. TOP EDGING With yarn C and RS facing, insert hook through both marked stitches on the right, yoh and pull a loop through, 1ch, sl st in same place; working through two layers, [1trcl, 1dc] 13 times; working through all three layers, [1trcl, 1dc] five times; working through two layers, [1trcl, 1dc] 13 times, 1dc in last END st. Fasten off and sew in ends.

PACKET OF CRISPS With yarn B, 139ch. Row 1: 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 37ch, p2m, dc in each of next 64ch, p2m, dc in each of next 36ch, turn – 138 sts. Rows 2–23: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 24: 1ch, 130dc, miss 4dc, 4dc, turn – 138 sts. Row 25: 1ch, 4dc, 1dc in each of next 4ch, 130dc, turn – 138 sts. Row 26–51: 1ch, dc to end, turn.

Fasten off and sew in ends.

START

Rows 52 & 53: Rep Rows 24 & 25. Row 54: 1ch, dc to end, turn, change to yarn C. Rows 55–58: 1ch, dc to end, turn, change to yarn B. Rows 59–75: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 76: 1ch, 38dc, p2m, 64dc, p2m, 36dc.

LABEL With yarn C, 37ch. Row 1: 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 35ch, turn – 36 sts. Row 2: 1ch, 1dc, miss 1dc, [4dc, 2dc in next dc] twice, 10dc, [miss 1dc, 5dc] twice, 2dc in next dc, 1dc, turn – 36 sts. Row 3: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 4: 1ch, 1dc, miss 1dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 4dc, 2dc in next dc, 14dc, miss 1dc, 5dc, miss 1dc, 3dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc, turn – 36 sts Row 5: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Rows 6–13: Rep Rows 2–5 twice. Fasten off and sew in ends. Using yarn B held double,

embroider “CRISPS” on the label and sew label in place on the front. Using yarn C, embroider your favourite flavour on the front. JOINING Fold at markers, making sure that the buttonholes are on top. Row 1: With RS facing, work 1tr through both marked dc on the top right, working through two layers, 1tr in each of next 26dc, working through three layers, 1tr in each of next 10dc and working through two layers, 1tr in each of next 27dc, turn – 64 sts. Row 2: 2ch, 1htr in first tr, [1rtrf (see Special Stitches), 1rtrb (see Special Stitches)] 31 times, 1htr in last tr. Fasten off and sew in ends. END Rep Rows 1 & 2 for bottom edge.

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Three Bears Yarn Affection 4ply, 100% cotton, 50g/225m/246yds Yarn A: Flamingo Pink x 1 ball Yarn B: Baby Pink x 1 ball Yarn C: Gentle Green x 1 ball Yarn D: Baby Blue x 1 ball Yarn E: Mermaid Cove x 1 ball ● 2.5mm hook ● Toy stuffing ● Yarn needle ● Covered coat hook, 40cm/15¾in YARN ALTERNATIVES DMC Natural Just Cotton and Patons 100% Cotton 4 ply both have a similar handle and a great colour palette to choose from. TENSION Work 26dc and 24 rounds to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 2.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Birds: 8cm/3in. Heart: 4.5cm/1¾in. Flowers: 4.5cm/1¾in. Leaves and wings: 4.5cm/1¾in. Coat hanger: 40cm/15¾in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Jacinta has worked in crochet, knitting and fashion design for almost 30 years, including working with yarn companies such as Hayfields, Rowan and Sirdar. Visit her website at www. knitweardesignjbowie.co.uk. COAT HANGER COVER Make two FIRST SIDE With 2.5mm hook and yarn A, 29ch, sl st to beg of ch to close rnd. Rnd 1: 1ch, dc in each ch around – 29dc. START

Lovebirds Baby Mobile

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure cotton yarn from www.threebearsyarn.co.uk

BY JACINTA BOWIE

These sweet hearts and lovebirds can be tailored to match any nursery colour scheme.

Working into the gap between each dc instead of into the top of the dc, cont as folls: Rnd 2: 1dc in first gap of Rnd 1 (rnd continues as a spiral), pm, dc to end. Rnd 3: Move up marker, dc to end. Cont working rnds in colour sequence as folls: Rnd 4: Yarn A. Rnds 5–7: Yarn B. Rnds 8–12: Yarn C. Rnds 13–15: Yarn D. Rnds 16–23: Yarn E. Rnds 24–26: Yarn C.

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Rnds 27–30: Yarn B. Rnds 31–34: Yarn A. Rnds 35–37: Yarn E. Rnds 38–42: Yarn C. Rnds 43–46: Yarn B. Rnds 47–53: Yarn A. Cont in yarn A only, [miss one gap, dc in next two gaps] until 4 sts rem. Break off yarn and draw through rem sts to close the work. Fasten off securely and weave in end. SECOND SIDE Work as given for first side in stripe sequence as folls: Rnds 1–8: Yarn E. Rnds 9–13: Yarn B. Rnds 14–18: Yarn A. Rnds 19–23: Yarn C. Rnds 24–29: Yarn D. Rnds 30–33: Yarn E. Rnds 34–37: Yarn C. Rnds 38–41: Yarn B. Rnds 42–48: Yarn A. Rnds 49–53: Yarn D. Cont in yarn D only, [miss one gap, dc in next two gaps] until 4 sts rem. Break off yarn and draw through rem sts to close the work. Fasten off securely and weave in end.

HEARTS Make two With yarn A, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 3ch, [3dtr, 4tr, 1dtr, 4tr, 3dtr, 3ch, sl st] in ring. Rnd 2: (2dc, 1dtr) in space under first 3ch of Rnd 1, [3tr in next dtr] three times, 3tr, 2dc in next tr, (1tr, 1dtr, 1tr) in dtr, 2dc in next tr, 3tr, [3tr in next dtr] three times, (1dtr, 2dc) in space under second 3ch of Rnd 1. Rnd 3: 3dc, [2tr in next st] nine times, 6tr, 1ch, 1dtr in dtr at peak of heart, 1ch, 6tr, [2tr in next st] nine times, 3dc, sl st to beg of rnd and fasten off. Draw up ring and weave in ends. Rnd 4: Using yarn B rejoin yarn to beg of last rnd, 1ch, 5dc, 22htr, 2tr in 1ch-sp, 1dtr in dtr at peak of heart, 2tr in 1ch-sp, 22htr, 5dc, sl st to beg of rnd and fasten off. Weave in ends and make a second Heart side the same, then place the two pieces back to back. Rejoin yarn B to Heart where the pieces were fastened off, 1ch, dc in each st through both pieces around

heart to last 10 sts, stuff with toy stuffing, dc to end to join pieces and seal in the stuffing. Sl st to beg of rnd, break off yarn and fasten off. Make another Heart, this time working Rnds 1–3 of both sides in yarn E and Rnd 4 in yarn B. BIRD BODY Make three Make one each in yarns A, E and B and work in a continuous spiral using marker to denote start of rnds. Make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 1ch, 6dc in ring – 6dc. Rnd 2: 2dc in each dc – 12dc. Rnd 3: [1dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 18dc. Rnd 4: Dc around. Rnd 5: 2dc in next st, [1dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc] four times, 2dc in next st – 24dc. Rnds 6–8: Dc around. Rnd 9: [2dc in next st, 3dc] six times – 30dc. Rnd 10: Dc around. Rnd 11: [2dc in next st, 4dc] six times – 36dc. Rnd 12: Dc around. Rnd 13: [2dc in next st, 5dc] six times – 42dc.

Rnds 14–23: Dc around. Cont in spiral, dec as folls: [2dc, miss 1 dc, 1dc] until 12 sts rem. Stuff Body and cont as set until 4 sts rem. Break off yarn and draw through rem sts to close the work. Fasten off securely and weave in end. LEAVES AND WINGS Make 14 Leaves make eight in yarn C, Wings make two in each of yarns B, C and D. Leaving a 15cm/6in tail work 10ch. Row 1: 1dc in second ch and each ch to end, turn – 9dc. Rnd 2: 1dc, 1htr, 1tr, [2dtr in next st] twice, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc, 3dc in end st, working back along opposite side, 1dc, 1htr, 1tr, [2dtr in next st] twice, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc, sl st to beg of rnd. ** Rnd 3: 2ch, 1htr in each st to end, sl st to top of 2ch. Break off yarn and fasten off. BIRD TAIL Make one in each of yarns A, B & E Work as given for Leaves to **.

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Rnd 3: 1ch, dc in each st to end, sl st to top of 1ch. Break off yarn and fasten off.

Rnd 3: [1dc, 2tr, 1dc] in each 4ch-sp. Sl st to beg of rnd and fasten off.

BIRD BEAK Make one in each of yarns A, B & D 5ch, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Rnd 1: 1ch, [1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc] twice in ring, sl st to beg of rnd. Break yarn leaving a long tail to sew beak to body.

GREEN BRANCHES Using two strands of yarn C held together work in ch for 190cm/75in. Fasten off.

BIRD LEGS Make one in each of yarns A, C & E With yarn doubled and leaving a 15cm/6in tail, work 50ch. Fasten off. Tie knots at each end of legs, fold in half and sew to centre of bottom of body. FLOWERS Make five Make two in yarn E, and one in each of yarns A, B and D. 5ch, sl st to beg of ch to close rnd. Rnd 1: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 9htr in ring, sl st to top of 2ch to close. Rnd 2: [4ch, sl st to next sp] ten times.

MAKING UP Sew all ends in and trim on all pieces. Pull the hanger covers on either side of the hanger and sew together around the hook using mattress stitch. Using the photo as a guide for colour combinations, sew beaks, wings and tails in position using backstitch and embroider eyes on each bird with satin stitch. With crochet hook pull the green cord through the pink heart, catch in position with an over stitch, leave 10cm/4in at bottom of heart. Attach top of a bird to this end sewing through securely. Leave another 15cm/6in and pull through the centre hole in a flower, tie a double knot and pull the end

of the cord back through the hole in the centre of the flower. Tie in a leaf behind the flower. The flower and leaf are now positioned by the knot.

tying to position the motifs. Wrap the cord around the coat hanger or chosen hanging item positioning the motifs as shown in the photograph or to suit.

Continue to add leaves, flowers, birds and heart in the same way by pulling through the cord and

Keep out of reach of babies and young children.

END

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MATERIALS ● Stylecraft Special DK, 100% acrylic, 100g/295m/322yds Yarn A: Camel 1420 x 3 balls Yarn B: Black 1002 x 6 balls ● 4mm & 5mm hooks ● Yarn needle TENSION Exact tension is not crucial for this project. MEASUREMENTS Finished size: 90 x 90cm/ 36 x 36in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Passionate about making cute designs for home and kids, Emma is known for her amazing use of colour. Find her work on Etsy at www.emmacrochetdesign4u. etsy.com or catch up with her on Instagram @Annaluciadu. SPECIAL STITCHES Standing tr (str): Make a slip knot on the hook, yoh, insert hook in st, pull up a loop, yoh, draw through 2 lps, yoh, draw through last 2 lps. Extended treble crochet (etr): Yoh, insert hook in next st, yoh and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yoh and draw through 1 lp, yoh and draw through 2 lps, yoh and draw through remaining 2 lps. Invisible join: Insert your needle into the second st from the beginning (not the first st). Draw the yarn through and insert the needle into the back loop of last st from this round. From the top, it looks like a normal “V” st. PATTERN NOTES Use 4mm hook for the second round of motif, for all other rounds use 5mm hook.

Heart Blanket BY EMMA DU

Create a home full of love with this classic heart blanket in on-trend colours.

HEART SQUARE Make 41 With 5mm hook and yarn A, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 2ch (does not count as st), 3dtr, 3tr, 1dtr, 3tr, 3dtr, 1ch, join with sl st in ring – 13 sts. Fasten off yarn A. START

Rnd 2: With 4mm hook and yarn B, str (see Special Stitches) on top of first dtr from Rnd 1, 2tr in www.insidecrochet.co.uk 75

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Pattern instructions same dtr, 3tr in each of next 2 sts, 1etr (see Special Stitches) in next st, 2etr in each of next 2 sts, 3tr in next st, 2etr in each of next 2 sts, 1etr in next st, 3tr in each of next 3 sts, 5dtr in ring, join with sl st in top of standing tr – 36 sts. Rnd 3: With 5mm hook, 1ch (does not count as st), 1dc in the same place as sl st, 1dc in each st around, join with sl st to first dc – 36 sts. Rnd 4: 2ch (counts as first htr), 1dc in each of next 2 sts, 1htr in next st, 1tr in each of next 2 sts, (1dtr, 2ch, 1dtr) in next st, *1tr in each of next 2 sts, 1htr in next st, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, 1htr in next st, 1tr in each of next 2 sts, (1dtr, 2ch, 1dtr) in next st; rep from * twice, 1tr in each of next 2 sts, join with sl st to top of 2ch – 40 sts, 4 2ch-sps. Rnd 5: 1ch (does not count as st), 1dc in the same place as sl st, 1dc in each st working (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in each of four corners and join with invisible join (see Special Stitches) – 48 sts, 4 2ch-sps. Joining Motifs Position all the parts as shown and

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join with your favourite joining method. When joining, take care to maintain the proper tension and alignment. The motifs should be flat and not bunch or stretch at the seams. Blanket shown was joined with whipstitch through both loops. After joining, weave in ends. EDGING With 5mm hook, attach yarn A to first dc after 2ch-sp in top left corner of top right square. Rnd 1: 1ch (does not count as first st), 1dc in the same st, 1dc in each st around working (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in each 2ch-sp and dc2tog across 2ch-sp on each side of the joining seam, join with sl st in first dc. Rnd 2: 1ch (does not count as first st), 1dc in the same st, 1dc in each st around working (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in each 2ch-sp and dc3tog across dec in previous round, join with sl st in first dc . Rnd 3: 1ch (does not count as first st), 1dc in the same st, 1dc in each st around working (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in each 2ch-sp and dc2tog across dec in previous round missing the dec st, join with sl st in first dc. TASSELS Cut a piece of cardboard, 15cm/ 6in in width. Using yarn A, wrap yarn around cardboard 30 times. Thread yarn needle and tie top of tassel, leaving ends to attach to work. Cut ends of yarn and remove them from cardboard. Thread needle with yarn and wrap it around tassel six to ten times. Tie knot in wrap yarn and bury ends inside tassel. Trim tassel ends evenly. END Attach to work where shown.

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Caron Simply Soft, 100% acrylic, 170g/288m/315yds Yarn A: Off White 9702 x 1 skein Yarn B: Black 9727 x 1 skein ● 4mm & 5.5mm hooks ● Yarn needle ● Stitch markers ● Cardboard, 10 x 18cm/4 x 7in TENSION Work 12 sts and 8 rows in ribbing to measure 8.5 x 7.5cm/3¼ x 3in using 5.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Note: Row tension for the ribbing is very important since it determines the finished circumference. Work 9 sts in Body pattern to measure 6.5cm/2½in using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Tension swatch With yarn A and 5.5mm hook, 13ch. Work as Ribbing Rows 1–8 – 12 sts. Swatch should measure 8.5 x 7.5cm/3¼ x 3in. For Infant, if your tension is correct, you can now continue to work Ribbing; for Toddler, fasten off. MEASUREMENTS To fit Infant (Toddler) head. Circumference: 36 (42)cm/ 14¼ (16½)in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Sharon is a prolific designer who has written many books of crochet patterns, including Crochet Refresher and Easy Afghans. Visit her website at www.sharonsilverman.com.

Baby Hat BY SHARON H SILVERMAN

The brim of this sweet hat is worked sideways to create ribbing, raised stitches create the illusion that two colours are used on each row, and pom-poms finish it all off with a flourish! ADD TO THE STASH Buy this great value yarn from www.lovecrochet.com This adorable design was taken from Crochet Refresher by Sharon H Silverman (Leisure Arts, £5.99), available from www.thegmcgroup.com.

SPECIAL STITCHES Raised treble front (rtrf): Yoh, insert hook from front to back around post of tr indicated, yoh and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), (yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice (Figs 1 & 2). Whipstitch: With right sides together, sew through both pieces once to secure the beginning of the seam. Insert the needle from back to front through both loops of each stitch on both pieces (Fig 3), or in end of rows (Fig 4). Bring the needle around and insert it from back to front through the next strands on both pieces.

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Continue in same manner, keeping the sewing yarn fairly loose. PATTERN NOTES To change colours while working a tr at the end of a row, yoh, insert hook in last dc, yoh and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook, drop yarn; with new colour, yoh and draw through both loops on hook. Do not cut yarn. RIBBING The Ribbing is worked to the circumference of the hat and will be folded in half lengthwise to form a brim. Using 5.5mm hook and yarn A, 13 (17)ch, place a marker in first ch from hook to make it easier to find at the end of Row 2. Row 1: Htr in third ch from hook (2 missed ch count as first htr) and in each ch across, turn – 12 (16)htr. Row 2: 1ch, dc in back loop only of each htr across including marked st; remove marker, turn. Row 3: 2ch (counts as first htr), place marker in last ch made, htr in back loop only of next dc and each dc across, turn. Continue to place a marker in the turning 2ch to make it easier to find, until you are comfortable finding the chain without marking it. Rows 4–38 (44): Repeat Rows 2 & 3, 17 (20) times; then repeat Row 2 once more. START

POM-POM TEMPLATE

BODY Change to 4mm hook. Begin by working across length of Ribbing. The hat is worked flat and seamed up the back. Row 1: 1ch, working across end of rows, dc in first dc row, 2dc in next htr row, (dc in next dc row, 2dc in next htr row) across , turn – 57 (66)dc. Row 2: 3ch (counts as first tr), tr in next dc and in each dc across to last dc, tr in last dc changing to yarn B, turn. Carry the unused yarn up the side. The carried strands will be hidden when sewing the seam. Row 3: (RS) 1ch, dc in first tr, work rtrf (see Special Stitches) around next tr, *dc in next 2tr, work rtrf around next tr; rep from * across to last tr, dc in last tr, turn – 19 (22)rtrf, 38 (44)dc. Row 4: 3ch, tr in next st and in each st across to last dc, tr in last dc changing to yarn A, turn – 57 (66)tr. When working a rtrf on the following rows, pull up a loop even with the loop on the hook, making the rtrf the same height as the dc. Row 5: 1ch, dc in first tr, work rtrf around rtrf in row below next tr, miss tr behind rtrf just made, *dc in next 2 tr, work rtrf around rtrf

in row below next tr, miss tr behind rtrf just made; rep from * across to last tr, dc in last tr, turn – 19 (22)rtrf, 38 (44)dc. Row 6: 3ch, tr in next st and in each st across to last dc, tr in last dc changing to next colour, turn – 57 (66)tr. Rows 7–16 (20): Repeat Rows 5 & 6, five (seven) times. Cut yarn A leaving a long end for sewing. Fasten off yarn B. Fold the Body in half with right sides together, matching end of rows. Using yarn A, whipstitch (see Special Stitches) across Body making sure that the carried strands don’t show on the right side, then whipstitch across Ribbing. Fold the Ribbing in half to the wrong side, matching the bottom edge to Row 1 of the Body; sew in place. Flatten the Hat with wrong sides together and the seam centred at the back. Using yarn A, whipstitch top seam allowing the stitching to show. POM-POM Make two Cut two cardboard circles using pom-pom template. Cut a 91.5cm/36in length of yarn B. Fold the strand in half and place it between the two cardboard circles. Holding one strand of each colour together, wind the yarn around the cardboard circle at least 30 times. Insert sharp scissors between the cardboard circles and cut the yarn along the outer edge (Fig 5), being careful to keep the pieces of yarn from falling off the cardboard. Tie a double knot with the 91.5cm/36in strand (Fig 6), making sure it’s very tight. Move the strands around to the opposite side of the first knot and tie another double knot. Gently remove the cardboard circles. Fluff the pom-pom into a ball and trim the ends. Placing each pom-pom on a corner of the hat, pull the ends to the wrong side a few stitches apart and tie the ends together; secure in place. END Weave in yarn ends.

FIG 1

FIG 2

FIG 3

FIG 4

FIG 5

CUT

FIG 6

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Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Sirdar Snowflake Chunky, 100% polyester, 25g/62m/68yds Yarn A: Foamy 717 x 6 balls Yarn B: Milky 630 x 1 ball ● Small amounts of black yarn ● 7mm hook ● Stitch marker YARN ALTERNATIVES Any chunky yarn will work here. TENSION Work 10htr and 7 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 7mm hook or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS To fit child’s head up to approximately 52cm/20½in in circumference. Hat is best worn slightly oversized – actual size approximately 54cm/21¼in circumference. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Claire Montgomerie is a textiles designer specialising in knitting and crochet, constructing fabrics, garments, creatures and accessories that are fun, quirky and modern. Find out more at www.montyknits.blogspot.com. PATTERN NOTES If you find it difficult to see the stitches in this fancy yarn, you can work in between the posts of the stitches instead of under the regular loops of the stitch.

Animal Magic Scarf BY CLAIRE MONTGOMERIE

This adorable hat and scarf in one is sure to be loved by a little one this winter. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this textured yarn from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

Scarf section can be adjusted to fit the child by working more or fewer rows. Please remember to allow for some stretching – the scarf section may grow longer with wear, so it may be a good idea to make the scarf slightly shorter than needed. Play with the features to make different animals like rabbits, cats and dogs. HAT With yarn A and 7mm hook, make 3ch. Rnd 1: 9htr in third ch from hook, join rnd with sl st – 10htr. Rnd 2: 2ch (counts as htr here and throughout), 1htr in same st, 2htr in each st around, join rnd with sl st – 20htr. START

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Rnd 3: 2ch, 1htr in same st, 1htr, [2htr in next st, 1htr] around, join rnd with sl st – 30htr. Rnd 4: 2ch, 1htr in same st, 4htr, [2htr in next st, 4htr] around, join rnd with sl st – 36htr. Rnd 5: 2ch, 1htr in same st, 5htr, [2htr in next st, 5htr] around, join rnd with sl st – 42htr. Rnd 6: 2ch, 1htr in same st, 6htr, [2htr in next st, 6htr] around, join rnd with sl st – 48htr. Rnd 7: 2ch, 1htr in same st, 7htr, [2htr in next st, 7htr] around, join rnd with sl st – 54htr. Rnds 8–14: 2ch, 1htr in each st around, join rnd with sl st – 54htr. Do not fasten off yarn but begin working in rows for one side of the scarf.

one of the scarf. Work as for Scarf Side One. Fasten off yarn.

SCARF SIDE ONE Row 1: 2ch, 12htr, turn, leaving rem sts unworked – 13htr. Row 2: 2ch, 1htr in each st across – 13htr. Rep last row until scarf is desired length to fingertips when worn, plus 16cm/6¼in. Fasten off yarn.

EYES Make two With yarn B and 7mm hook, make 2ch. Rnd 1: 6dc in second ch from hook, join rnd with sl st – 6dc. Rnd 2: 1ch, 2dc in each st around, join rnd with sl st – 12dc. Rnd 3: 1ch, 3dc, 2htr in next st, 3tr in next st, 2htr in next st, 3dc, 2htr in next st, 3tr in next st, 2htr in next st, join rnd with sl st – 20 sts. Fasten off yarn and attach to front of hat.

SCARF SIDE TWO Rejoin yarn to Rnd 14 of the hat, in the 12th stitch along from side

Weave in all ends and fold up each bottom end of the scarf to create a 16cm/6¼in deep pocket. Sew up the two side seams of each pocket. EARS Make two With yarn B and 7mm hook, make 2ch. Rnd 1: 6dc in second ch from hook, join rnd with sl st – 6dc. Rnd 2: 1ch, 2dc in each st around, join rnd with sl st – 12dc. Fasten off yarn and attach to top of hat.

MUZZLE With yarn B and 7mm hook, make 2ch. Rnd 1: 6dc in second ch from hook, join rnd with sl st – 6dc. Rnd 2: 1ch, 2dc in same st, 2dc in next st, 3htr in next st, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, 3htr in last st, join rnd with sl st – 14 sts. Fasten off yarn and attach to centre front of hat. PAWS BIG CIRCLE Make two With yarn B and 7mm hook, 2ch. Rnd 1: 6dc in second ch from hook, join rnd with sl st – 6dc. Rnd 2: 1ch, 2dc in each st around,

join rnd with sl st – 12dc. SMALL CIRCLE Make six With yarn B and 7mm hook, make 2ch. Rnd 1: 6dc in second ch from hook, join rnd with sl st – 6dc. FINISHING Weave in all ends. Attach paw circles to the palm of the pockets in a paw shape, with large circle below three small circles on each pocket. Embroider eyes, nose and mouth to the face as shown in END the pictures. Block lightly to shape.

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SPINNING

OM ROVING FR O DI EEN SHED LITTLE GR

E FIBRE AND SPINDL FROM DOODLESTOP

BATT FROM FIBRE FINERY

HAND-SPUN YARN

Spinning around Crochet designer Sarra Mackenzie-Pilot talks about her other favourite hobby – turning fleece and fibre into hand-spun, ready-to-crochet yarn.

W

e all love yarn, this has to be true. We love to crochet, and finding new yarns is always a total joy. Now, what if you could decide how you made your yarns? How thick, or thin, what fibres, what colours, what texture to add? Well, as many crafters often do, I have another hobby, more of an addiction. I am Sarra and I am a spinner. I took up spinning as I was fascinated by the craft and how a sheep could become a jumper without the need for a factory. This hobby soon gets into the very fibre of your being. Once you start to produce your own yarns, you understand the need for twist, how fibres grab one another, and which fibres blend well together and which ones do not. There is a bit of trial and error as with anything, but taking up spinning is something I am eternally grateful for. So – where do you start? It’s all well and good admiring a flock of sheep up on the hillside, but not all fleece is easy to spin, and some can be quite

coarse and rough – these fibres are more suited to carpeting than crochet. And while experienced spinners will revel in a freshly shorn fleece – I have around 40 whole fleece in my personal stash – a new spinner might not be quite so ready to wash, pick and card the fibre just for a bit of yarn. It is easier to buy ready-made roving. Roving is a prepared form of fibre, carded by machine or by hand so the fibres lie the same way, and cleaned, dyed and ready to use. Roving can be bought from commercial mills, or from indie dyers and fibre producers. The joy of buying from a small-scale indie dyer is that they will often dye to your requests, so you can start with the right fibre for you. Indie dyers themselves will be working with either pure or blended fibres, and can help you pick the best fibres for your projects. The next step, and my personal favourite, is art batts. These are a crazy mix of fibres and colours and textures, blended on a drum carder to produce a batt of fibre ready to spin with. This can be split into strips,

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“Art batts offer a great challenge as the fibres will feel different to roving, which is very consistent.”

Above: If you get seriously into spinning your own yarn, a spinning wheel is a wonderful investment – you can spin four times as much as in the same time on a spindle. Visit your local guild to give a few a whirl and ask for advice.

and spun straight from there, or held as a whole batt by the more experienced spinner, who can decide which section of colour or texture will be taken into the spin next. Art batts offer a great challenge as the fibres will often feel different to roving, which is very consistent, but can lack texture and density. There are some fibres that are beginner friendly, and others that wouldn’t be suitable, and would slip through your fingers too much, or be a pain to draft (that is the action of drawing the fibres apart to make finer yarn). Superwash Merino is lovely to wear, but when it comes to spinning it takes a little bit more work as it runs through the fingers so fast. A great beginner fibre is Bluefaced Leicester. The barbs in the fibres are more grippy, so they join together much better when spun. This takes a lot of the hard work out of the equation so you can focus on the spin itself. Other great fibres to start with would be Poll Dorset, Texel, Jacobs and Corridale: great British sheep breeds that all grab together so well, to give a better overall yarn quality. These might not be the softest wools in the universe, but you will learn so much better without having to fight the fibre. There are fibres to spin that are totally plant based too, from bamboo to banana fibre, even seaweed, but these are very slippy on their own, and spin better when blended with animal fleece. When first starting to spin, most of us will begin with a drop spindle. Spindle spinning dates back thousands of years, in many cultures across the globe. Wherever there was fibre, there were spinners. A well-balanced spindle is a delight, so check to see how well yours spins. Tie on some yarn and give it a clockwise twist. If it is balanced well it should spin for a while without too much wobbling about. Spinning the spindle puts a directional twist into the fibre, helping it to bind together. This turns fleece into yarn. With a spindle you draw out the fibres and join them to a leader – a piece of yarn attached to your spindle – then when you spin the spindle, the twist travels up the leader and into the fibre. Each spin puts in more twist, and then you draw out more fibre, until you have an arm’s length, then you wind this carefully onto the spindle shaft and then continue to spin. A drop spindle offers a relatively low-cost method of spinning, and is easily transported, but there are limits to the techniques other than spinning singles or plying the singles together. This is where the wheel comes in. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 85

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SPINNING

NEXT STEPS

If you fancy giving spinning a go, try these companies for everything you need to get started.

MAGPIE & GOBLIN www.facebook.com/magpieandgoblin www.magpieandgoblin.etsy.com ➻ This is my family-run business. We create art batts made with a mix of everything we can think of. We blend sheep breeds with alpaca fibre, add a touch of soybean, seaweed or nettle, then some firestar to add glitter. We also hand dye roving fibre from rare British sheep breeds, to promote their breed and keep them around as long as we can. We also have some alpacas of our own. Their fibre gets added in some of our art batts, so they pay their way too.

THE FIBRE FINERY www.facebook.com/thefibrefinery ➻ Sarah’s fibres are hand combed from fleece and blended slowly by hand, before drum carding. The time and care that goes into dyeing and carding really shows through and makes for beautiful yarn.

BITS AND HOBS www.bitsandhobs.co.uk ➻ Charlotte makes the most bouncy, bright and funky art batts (see across, top) and dyes some amazing roving. Everything in her shop is super cute and colourful. If you love sparkles, then this is the place to go.

THE LITTLE GREEN SHEDDIO www.facebook.com/thelittlegreensheddio ➻ Tracey is an amazing crafter, who works from her home in Wales. Her fibres are as wacky as she is, and her Frankenbatts are freaky fun, everything fibre rolled into one.

DOODLESTOP www.doodlestop.co.uk ➻ Becky needs no introduction. She is the queen of fibre products – from yarn swifts to sock blockers, she knows everything and sells everything you will ever need. Her spindles are beautifully weighted for a long smooth spin, and they look pretty amazing too. Doodlestop also does a drop spindle starter kit. If you want to get going right away, these kits give you the spindle and enough fibre to set you on the right path.

ABBY FRANQUEMONT www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPUORvO-GZE ➻ For a little bit of inspiration and a lot of assistance check out Abby’s videos. Her technique is so good and there is not much she doesn’t know about spinning.

THE ASSOCIATION OF GUILDS OF WEAVERS, SPINNERS AND DYERS www.wsd.org.uk ➻ All the information about local guilds in your area, places to meet up, classes for beginners and even qualifications in spinning to be gained. Guilds are a great place to go if you fancy progressing and picking a wheel, as the members will have a few you could ask to try before making the big purchase.

THE SPINNER’S BOOK OF YARN DESIGNS ➻ This book by Sarah Anderson gives a lot of advice on different methods to produce a wider range of yarns. A great reference to have on hand.

Top: This stunning fibre batt is from indie dyer Bits And Hobs. Above: Some of Magpie & Goblin’s colourful hand-spun art yarn.

The spinning wheel was a later invention, designed to increase the production of yarn. It really does, even in home spinning. I can produce four times as much yarn on my wheel per hour as I can on a spindle. A wheel is a huge investment, mind, and they also take up a fair amount of space. If you end up like me and have four wheels, they can take over your life! Modern wheels can often be folded for transportation or storage, but older wheels are cumbersome and can be moody and temperamental, as well as hard to source parts for. A newer spinner would be best placed visiting a local guild to see if they could try a few wheels and ask for advice. Guild members are always happy to meet people interested in spinning, and will love to help. I hope I have not bored you all with my crazy world of fibre, and next time you are at a wool show, you will hopefully be as drawn to the glorious rovings and art batts as I am.

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HOW TO CROCHET

TEACH YOURSELF

Crochet Howto

IDE TO OUR COMPLETE GU BLE AT CROCHET IS AVAILA

How to hold the work, chains, double & treble crochet, slip stitches and more

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Crochet is a craft that often looks deceptively

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hard – all that twisting and

This gorgeous “blanket in a bag” design in the new Stylecraft Batik DK Pattern 9299

looping and pulling of yarn! But once you’ve got the hang of a few simple movements, you’ll find it’s easy to work all the stitches you need, meaning you can make anything from simple granny motifs to complex garments worked in elaborate stitch patterns. Claire Montgomerie has put together this great guide to all the crochet basics, in association with Stylecraft, who have a wide range of affordable, high-quality yarns, perfect for beginners and more experienced crocheters. From basic Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

stitches to slip knots, tension, abbreviations, working in the round and more, our guide will take you through everything you need to know to make a start on your new favourite hobby. Claire’s number one tip is to practise the chain stitch before you move on to anything else, as once you’ve got the hang of creating smooth, even chains, you’ll find it easy to move on to all the other techniques. Crochet is a wonderful hobby that can give you many hours of pleasure as well as beautiful finished makes, so turn the page to get started today!

TURN THE PAGE FOR ALL YOU NEED TO GET STARTED

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HOW TO CROCHET

GETTING STARTED

THE BASICS To crochet smoothly and efficiently, you must hold the hook and yarn in a relaxed, comfortable and consistent fashion. This will also ensure that your tension is even and accurate. There are two main ways of holding the hook and two main ways to tension the yarn. You can choose whichever combination feels more natural for you, or a variation on these.

SLIPKNOT

CHAIN

A slipknot creates the first loop on the hook.

Most crochet projects begin with a length of chain. This is the perfect stitch to practise your hold and tension with.

HOLDING THE HOOK

KNIFE GRIP

PENCIL GRIP

Hold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a knife.

Hold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a pencil.

1 Make a loop in the yarn around 10–20cm/4–8in from the end. Insert hook through loop, catch the back strand of yarn and pull it through to the front.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

HOLDING THE YARN

FOREFINGER METHOD

MIDDLE-FINGER METHOD

Wrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your opposite hand, under the next two fingers and over the forefinger. Hold the work steady with your middle finger and thumb, then raise your forefinger when working to create tension.

Wrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your opposite hand and over the other fingers. Hold the work steady with your forefinger and thumb, then raise your middle finger while you are crocheting to create tension.

Working left-handed To croch e t le ft-h and ed, simply do the opp osit e to . the righ t-h and ed hol ds Hold a mirror up to any to p ic ture in this gu ide

see how to wor k.

TOPTiPabcdgg It doesn’t ma t te r if your sti tch es te nd tow ar ds be in g sli gh tly tig ht or ev en a lit tle loose; you ar e ai mi ng for an ev en te nsion th roughout to ac hi ev e a pr of ession al fin ish .

1 Holding just the hook with point up in your dominant hand, and the yarn in the other, grip the slipknot with the yarn holding hand. Work a yarn round hook (yrh or yoh) by passing the hook in front of the yarn, under and around it.

2 Pull the ends of the yarn to secure the knot around the hook, but not too tightly or it will be hard to pull the first loop of chain through.

TOPTiPabcdgg The action of working stitches causes a constan t rolling of the hook in your fingers; hold the hook pointin g up when performing the yrh, then roll it round towards you to point down when pulling through the loops so that you don’t catch the hook in the stitches.

2 Roll the hook round in your fingers towards you to catch the yarn and pull through loop on hook. One chain made.

3 Ensuring the stitches are even – not too loose or tight – repeat to make a length of chain.

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HOW TO CROCHET

THE MAIN STITCHES SLIP STITCH (sl st) A slip stitch is usually used to join one stitch to another, or to join a stitch to another point. It is generally made by picking up two strands of a stitch but when used all over, you usually only pick up the back loop.

Simple motif designs can quickly build up into larger projects, such as this stunning blanket from Stylecraft Pattern 9298

Double crochet stitches are perfect for making amigurumi, while treble crochets are used to create the classic granny square design

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) The smallest stitch, creating a dense fabric perfect for amigurumi. 1 Insert hook into st or chain required. Yarn over hook, as when you make a chain. Pull a loop through all stitches/ loops/work on hook to finish slip stitch.

1 Insert hook into chain or stitch, front to back. Yarn over hook and draw through stitch to front, leaving you with two loops on the hook. Yarn round hook. 2 Draw through both loops to finish the stitch. Double crochet completed.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

COUNTING A CHAIN The right side of your chain is the one that looks like a little plait of “v” shapes. Each “v” is a stitch and must be counted. When you are working the chain, you do not count the slipknot, but begin to count your chain when you pull through the first loop. To count the chain afterwards you count the slipknot as the first stitch, but not the loop on the hook, or “working” loop.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) Slightly taller than a double crochet stitch, with a softer drape to the resulting fabric. 1 Yarn over hook, insert hook into st from front to back and draw loop through stitch only. This gives you three loops on the hook. Yarn round hook.

2 Draw yarn through three remaining loops on the hook together to complete half treble.

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HOW TO CROCHET

TREBLE CROCHET (tr) The tallest of the basic stitches, great for using within more complex patterns.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

➻ One of the most well-known and respected names in the hand knitting business, Stylecraft offers yarns which reflect the latest fashion trends together with those essential classics and irresistible baby yarns that are ideal for knitting and crochet. We pride ourselves on offering excellent quality yarn at great prices and our designs embrace garments for all the family as well as toys and accessories.

1 Yarn round hook, insert hook into stitch from front to back and draw loop through stitch only. This gives you three loops on the hook. Yarn round hook.

FASTEN OFF Pull up final loop of last stitch to make it bigger and cut the yarn, leaving enough of an end to weave in. Pull end through loop, and pull up tightly to secure.

COUNTING STITCHES Count the post or “stem” of each stitch from the side of your work. Each post counts as one stitch. Double crochet

2 Pull loop through two loops. Two loops on hook. Yarn round hook.

Treble crochet

Visit our website at www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk for information on all our new and existing product ranges, plus some fantastic free patterns for you to enjoy too!

Finding a stockist near you ➻ To find your nearest local, independent yarn store that stocks Stylecraft yarns, please visit www.stylecraft-yarns. co.uk/stockists.php and enter your postcode into the online form.

TOPTiPabcdgg

3 Pull loop through the remaining two loops to complete treble, repeat to end of row.

Try t o coun t your st it ches a t regu lar int erva ls, usua lly a t the end of ever y, or ever y othe r, row and esp ecia lly a f t er an incr ea se or decr ea se row. It is b est t o try t o ca t ch any mist ake s a s q uick ly a s p ossib le, a s this will mak e them muc h ea sier t o rect i fy!

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HOW TO CROCHET

USING THE STITCHES WORKING INTO A CHAIN

WORKING STRAIGHT

When working into a chain, you need to miss out the appropriate number of chain stitches called for with your particular stitch (see the information on turning chains, to the right). Now insert the hook from front to back into the next chain, under the top loop of the chain. Yarn over and draw a loop through to the front of the chain.

When working straight, you need to turn your work at the end of a row and then work a turning chain (t-ch) to the height of your intended stitch so that you can continue working along the next row. This chain often counts as the first stitch of the row and each type of stitch uses a different number of chain stitches for the turning chain.

WORKING INTO WHICH LOOP?

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

Crochet stitches are always worked through both loops of the next stitch (this looks like a “v” on top of the stitch), unless the pattern tells you otherwise.

With htr and taller stitches, you now miss out the first stitch of the row, then work into every following stitch. This is because the turning chain is tall enough to count as the first stitch itself, so is counted as the first stitch of the row. This also means that you must remember to work the last stitch of a row into the top of the previous row’s turning chain.

For PDF versions of Stylecraft’s shade cards, visit www.stylecraftyarns.co.uk

Sometimes you are asked to work into a space or chain space. To do this, simply insert your hook into the hole underneath the chain and complete the stitch normally

KEEPING STRAIGHT EDGES Sometimes a pattern will ask you to work only through one loop of the stitch. To work through the front loop only (flo), insert your hook under the front loop of the next stitch, then bring it out at the centre of the stitch, then complete. To work through the back loop only (blo), insert your hook through the centre of the stitch, then under the back loop to the back, then complete the stitch. Sometimes you are even asked to work in between the stitches. In this case, ignore the top loops of the stitch and insert your hook between the posts of adjoining stitches.

WORKING INTO A SPACE Sometimes you are asked to work into a space or a chain space. To do this simply insert your hook into the hole underneath the chain, then complete your stitch normally. This is similar to working into a ring, as shown on page 94.

Knowing which stitch to work into when working straight can be a problem for beginners, because the turning chain has such a role to play. If you don’t know which stitch to work into after making your turning chain, simply unravel back to the last stitch from previous row and insert a thread or stitch marker into that stitch. Make your desired turning chain then miss out the stitch with the thread in (except with dc stitches), as your turning chain now counts as the first stitch of the row. Once you have worked across all stitches in the row, you must remember to put a stitch into the top of the previous row’s turning chain, as this also counts as a stitch. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 93

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HOW TO CROCHET

CROCHET PATTERNS from

BLANKET AND CUSHION PATTERN 9306 Use simple-to-hook mitered square motifs to make these stylish homewares in Carnival Chunky and Special Aran.

WORKING IN THE ROUND When working in the round, instead of working backwards and forwards along the work, turning at the end of each round, you simply work with the right side facing you at all times and you do not turn. When working in the round, you generally begin one of three ways:

WORKING AROUND A RING

WORKING INTO A SHORT CHAIN

ADJUSTABLE RING

This method of working in the round creates a large hole at the centre of your work. Its size is dependent on the length of chain used.

You can create a smaller hole in the centre of your work by working into a chain as short as 2ch long.

This method is also referred to as the magic loop or ring, as it creates a round with no hole at the centre. Here it is demonstrated with double crochet.

Make a length of chain as required, then insert your hook into the first chain stitch you made. Yarn round hook.

For double crochets, as in this example, work 2ch. For htr you would work 3ch and for trebles, 4ch. Make a loop in your yarn, at least 15cm/6in from the tail end. Insert hook through the loop from front to back.

Text Š Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations Š Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

Insert hook into the top loop of the first chain as shown. Yarn round hook.

BLANKET AND CUSHION PATTERN 9300 Try the new Stylecraft Batik DK yarn to make these pretty projects with a vintage look.

BLANKET AND CUSHION PATTERN 9307 Combine Carnival Chunky and Special Aran to make this fabulous tessellated design.

Work a slip stitch to join, creating a ring, and then work your turning chain dependent on which stitch you will be working into the ring. Insert hook into the centre of the ring and work the first stitch into this ring.

Complete the first stitch in the chain as shown (illustrations show dc, but can be any stitch).

Work required number of stitches into the centre of the ring and join round with a slip stitch. Do not turn, but continue the next row around the last.

Now work the required amount of stitches into the same chain. The sheer amount of stitches worked into one place will cause them to fan out into a round. Now join this round with a slip stitch and continue with the pattern.

Pull yarn though to front of loop and complete the stitch around the loop and the tail end of yarn held double.

Work all the following stitches into the ring in the same way, over the two strands of yarn in the loop. Once all stitches have been worked, pull the loose tail end of the yarn to close the ring and join the round with a slip stitch.

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HOW TO CROCHET

SHAPING, COLOURWORK & TENSION Once you’ve learned simple shaping stitches, you can create almost any garment – and add in different colours as you go with our simple technique. Make sure to check your tension first though, or your finished piece could be completely the wrong size!

INCREASING

JOINING IN A NEW COLOUR

TENSION/GAUGE

To join in a new colour (or a new ball of the same colour), you can simply fasten off the old yarn and then attach the new colour with a slip stitch into the top of the last stitch made. However, for a neater join, you can also work the colour change as follows: To work an extra stitch, you simply need to work into the same stitch more than once. Work one stitch as normal. Insert hook into same stitch you’ve just worked and complete another stitch. One stitch increased.

DECREASING

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

To decrease a stitch, you need to work into two stitches without finishing them, then work them together.

For a double crochet (above), insert hook into next st, yarn over hook and draw a loop through the stitch, but do not finish the double crochet stitch as usual. Insert hook into following st, yarn over hook and draw a loop through the next st, so there are three loops on the hook in total. Yarn over hook and draw the loop through all loops on hook, drawing two stitches together. One stitch decreased.

For a treble crochet, work a treble into the next stitch until the last step of the stitch, two loops on hook. Do the same into the following stitch, three loops on hook. Draw through all three loops on hook to draw the two trebles together. One stitch decreased.

Work the last stitch in the colour you are using first, up to the final step, so that the stitch is unfinished. Pull the new colour through the loops on your hook, completing the stitch and joining the new colour at the same time. Working a new colour over double crochet

Working a new colour over treble crochet

Once you have joined in the new yarn, you can weave in the ends of both yarns as you go, by holding them on top of your stitches and working round them as you work into the following stitches. Do this for at least 5cm/2in then cut the remaining ends.

A tension swatch is used to ensure that you are working at the tension called for in the pattern. It is essential to check this, otherwise your finished garment is likely to be the wrong size! Crochet a small square of just over 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in in the main yarn and stitch used in the pattern, then count and calculate the average amount of stitches per cm. Chain a few more stitches and work more rows than the tension in the pattern suggests you’ll need for this size. Once you have completed the swatch, use a measuring tape or ruler, place some pins at 0 and 10 and take some average measurements – count how many stitches and rows to 10cm at different points over the swatch. If you find you have more stitches per cm than indicated in the pattern, then your tension is too tight and you need to work more loosely. The best way to do this is to increase the size of hook you’re using by a quarter or half millimetre until the tension is as close as you can get it. If there are fewer stitches than required, then you are crocheting too loosely, and you need to decrease the size of hook used in the same way.

TURN THE PAGE FOR CLUSTER STITCHES, TIPS AND A FULL GLOSSARY OF CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS, UK VS US TERMS AND HOOK SIZES

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HOW TO CROCHET

CLUSTERS Clusters are groups of stitches worked into the same stitch, but rather than an increase, they still only equate to one stitch overall. Clusters can be confusing to work, so here are the details of some of the main cluster stitches.

BOBBLE

PUFFS

A bobble is a number of stitches (generally trebles), half finished and all worked into the same stitch. Work each stitch until the last step, omitting this final step. Once the desired number of half finished trebles have been completed, you will have one more loop on your hook than you have half finished trebles. Yarn round hook, then pull through all loops on hook to complete the bobble.

A puff is a number of elongated half trebles worked into the same stitch and then finished together, as follows:

POPCORNS Popcorns are a number of complete stitches worked into one stitch.

1 Yarn round hook, insert into next stitch, pull a loop through the stitch and then pull it up to the height of all other stitches in the row.

TIPS ANDTRICKS abcdgg

Working from a pattern ➻ Once you have “cracked the code” and understand the stitches’ abbreviations, a pattern becomes much easier to read. Don’t read a pattern fully before starting it as it may make it seem more complex, but do take a brief look through to check if there any abbreviations you are unfamiliar with. Consult the abbreviations tables opposite before beginning. ➻ Purchase yarn with the same dye lot number on the balls to avoid unwanted colour changes and choose light coloured yarn for your first projects to make sure that you can see your stitches easily – this helps prevent mistakes occurring.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

1 Once the sts are completed, remove your hook and insert back into the first stitch worked, then through the final loop.

2 Yarn round hook, insert into same stitch, pull a loop through stitch and pull it up to the height of all other stitches in the row. Repeat this step the desired number of times.

➻ If you are attempting a project with multiple size options, circle or highlight the instructions for the size you are making throughout the pattern to avoid confusion. The smallest size is listed first, then all following ones inside brackets, increasing in size and separated by commas. ➻ Where a pattern has an accompanying chart, use this for reference, as it shows the formation of the stitches as they will be worked and can help with tricky instructions.

2 Yarn round hook and pull through everything on the hook. Popcorn complete.

3 Yarn round hook and pull through all loops on hook. Puff made.

Choose light-coloured yarn for your first few projects to make sure that you can see all of your stitches easily – this helps prevent mistakes occurring

➻ Finally, and most importantly, for projects that need to have a good fit, always check your tension by swatching before you begin.

96 Inside Crochet

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HOW TO CROCHET

A note on... Hook sizes

ABBREVIATIONS Note: Inside Crochet uses UK terms throughout alt · alternate bef · before beg · begin(s); beginning bet · between blo · back loop only ch(s) · chain(s) ch-sp(s) · chain space(s) cl(s) · cluster(s) cm · centimetre(s) cont · continue(s); continuing dc · double crochet dc2tog · work two dc together dec(s) · decrease(s); decreasing; decreased dtr · double treble crochet dtr2tog · work two dtr together ea · each ech · extended chain edc · extended double crochet

prev · previous rem · remain(s); remaining rep(s) · repeat(s) rev dc · reverse double crochet rnd(s) · round(s) RS · right side rtrf · raised treble front rtrb · raised treble back sl · slip sl st · slip stitch sp(s) · space(es) st(s) · stitch(es) t-ch(s) · turning chain(s) tog · together tr · treble crochet trtr · triple treble tr2tog · work two trebles together WS · wrong side yd(s) · yard(s) yoh · yarn over hook yrh · yarn round hook

etr · extended treble est · established fdc · foundation double crochet flo · front loop only foll · follows; following ftr · foundation treble crochet g · gram(s) gp(s) · group(s) hk · hook htr · half treble crochet htr2tog · work two htr together inc(s) · increase(s); increasing; increased in · inch(es) lp(s) · loop(s) m · stitch marker mm · millimetre(s) nc · not closed patt · pattern pm · place marker

adjustable ring sl st BREAKING THE LANGUAGE BARRIER UK and US terms have differing meanings which can create difficulty for thech crocheter. Here’s a handy reference guide to overcome any misunderstandings.

bl only

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

UK TERMS Chain Miss Slip stitch Double crochet Half treble crochet Treble crochet Double treble crochet Triple treble crochet Raised treble back/front

US TERMS Chain adjustable ring Skip Slip stitch sl st Single crochet ch Half double crochet Double crochet bl only Treble crochet Double treble crochet fl only adjustable ring Back/front post dc dc sl st

14

0.75

12

1 1.25

11adjustable ring 7

1.50

6

sl st

5ch

1.75 2

14

bl only

2.25

B/1

2.75 sl st

C/2

adjustable ring 2.5 12 adjustable ring 3sl st

10

3.5 bl only

9

ch 3.25 ch

bl only 3.75 fl 4fl only only 4.5 dc 5dc fdc 5.5 fdc 6 htr htr 6.5 7tr

8tr 9

dtr dtr 10 11.5

trtr 12

trtr

fl only dc

D/3 fdc E/4

htr

F/5 8

G/6

7

7

6

H/8

tr

5

dtr I/9

4

J/10

3

K-/101/2 trtr

2 0

L/11

00

rtrf M /13

000

N/15 O rtrb P

15

Q dc2tog

20

S

rtrf rtrf

tr2tog

tr2tog tr2tog

3-tr cl

dtr

rtrb

tr3tog tr3tog

popcorn

trtr

dc2tog

puff puff

linked tr

tr2tog

3-tr cl 3-tr cl

tr3tog

popcorn www.insidecrochet.co.uk popcorn

puff

linked tr linked tr

fl only

tr

sl st

dc

ch

fdc

bl only

htr

htr

dtr

0.60

rtrf

adjustable ring

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tr

US

puff

htr

fdc

htr

UK

dc2tog dc2tog

bl only

tr

dc

fdc

Metric (mm)

tr3tog

fdc

fl only

dc

CROCHET HOOK SIZES

rtrb rtrb

ch

CHARTS KEY

fl only

➻ Hook sizes and their designations vary from country to country. When following the recommendations in a pattern or on a ball band, make sure to check which size convention is being used.

trtr

rtrf dtr rtrb

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FINAL THOUGHT

TANIA OAKSHOT T

“It’s great to work with a variety of fleece as they all have dif ferent qualities, an d it’s really rewarding to get a raw fleece an d create somet hing be autiful.”.

SPINNING A YARN Tania from lovespoolyarns chats about spinning, sheep farming and working with rare breed fibres.

Above: Tania learnt to crochet as a young girl then taught herself to spin as a teen on her aunt's wheel. Below: A selection of Tania's glorious handspun art yarns.

Tell us about your life… I was brought up in a small village, Glenavy, in rural New Zealand. There were only about 18 kids in my school and I remember spending much of my childhood running wild. I moved to the UK in my twenties and after moving up and down the UK have settled in Liverpool with my boys. How did you learn to spin? I taught myself to spin as a teenager on a wheel I borrowed from my aunt. I’ve done a lot of playing around and watching YouTube for tips and I have a great book by Lexi Boeger that I use for reference. When did you launch lovespoolyarns? I launched my business about three years ago and it’s been great to be self-employed as I’ve been able to work it around my boys. Sheep farming is in the family, there are still relatives running sheep farms and last visit I got my hands on some Coopworth fleece from Mum’s cousins who are on the farm. When I was a young girl I learnt to knit and crochet with Granny and Mum, so it feels like I’ve been crafting forever. It was a natural progression to turn my hobby into my work. I absolutely love what I do and it’s always exciting to sit down at my spinning wheel with a collection of fleece, fibre and any other goodies I fancy as “spin-ins”. Under the label of lovespoolyarns I create an eclectic mix of one-off art yarns from fine and floaty to more exotic affairs and then there’s the super chunky, which I have to hand feed onto my “country spinner”. I also card a range of batts for spinners and felters and of course, I spin the wire-core yarns which can be used for knitting, crochet, embroidery, jewellery and sculpture. Where do you work? I have a space at the Bridewell Studios. It’s a great listed building that used to be a jail and there are lots of other artists about, working in all sorts of media. What do you think is special about working with handspun yarns? It’s amazing being able to take a bunch of fleece, fibre and magpie finds to create something unique. And when you make something with an art yarn you can be sure you’re not going to see another article the same.

Do you dye your fibres yourself? Not at the moment but I have started dabbling with Wilton Icing Colours and I have recently planted some traditional dye plants on my allotment… Could you tell us about your rare breed yarns? It’s great to be able to work with a variety of fleece as they all have different qualities, and it’s really rewarding to get a raw fleece and take it through all the processes to create something beautiful. It’s usually the qualities of the fleece that dictate how it wants to be spun but I quite often use the same techniques as for the colourful art yarns. The naturals tend to be very textural and organic looking yarns. I also enjoy switching between making vibrant yarns to the soothing neutral tones of natural fleece. I’m pleased to be able to support the people who are promoting the conservation of rare breeds and particularly to use fleece from sheep on the watchlists. I’m a member of the RBST (Rare Breeds Survival Trust) so I can source directly from the farmers. What are your favourite fibres? I use such a variety of fleece and fibres (such as bamboo, ramie, silk, banana, soya bean, angelina…) and I don’t know if I could choose a favourite as they’ve all got such different qualities. If I’m using colours for art yarn I tend to go with Merino for its versatility and softness. What are the challenges of running a yarn business? Fitting everything inside my head and finding the time to do all the stuff that needs doing! What do you have coming up in 2017? I’ve got a couple of wool fairs lined up – Wonderwool (22–23 April) which I’ve never done before and am really looking forward to, and a new one called Spring Into Wool (8 April) and possibly later in the year the Popup Wool Show (19 August) and Yarndale (23–24 September), which is always a really enjoyable event. I’ve been spinning a few more unusual yarns incorporating blossoms and some with newspaper which truly are “art yarns” with a touch of whimsy. Find Tania online at www.lovespoolyarns.co.uk, and turn to page 49 for Helen Free’s gorgeous floral set using Tania’s Wired Art Yarn.

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Olympia, London 2nd – 5th March 2017 Royal Highland Centre, Edinburgh 27th – 30th April 2017 The definitive event for anyone with a love of textile based crafts. Supplies, workshops and textile art.

• • • • •

200 Specialist Exhibitors Over 150 Workshops The Creative Living Theatre The Dressmaking Studio Features, demonstrations & inspirational galleries

Products to help you with:

Knitting – Sewing – Dressmaking – Quilting – Crochet Cross Stitch – Interiors – Textile Art – Crafts

Quote IC17 for £2* off! *Valid on adult tickets in advance or £1.00 off concessions. Terms and conditions and £1.50 fulfilment fee applies.

To book tickets visit www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com or call 0844 581 1319 (+44 (0) 121 796 6165 from outside the UK)

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UPPER STREET EVENTS

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Inside crochet issue 86, 2017  
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