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Contents Crochetscene | 2017

Vic’s Picks | things you’ll love

Projects Hi, Desert! 16 Gobi Dress Annastasia Cruz

Thread Lightly 72 Bee’s Knees Beret Anastasia Popova

Instructions page 24

18

Colorado Poncho Brenda K. B. Anderson

18

Sonoran Shrug Linda Skuja

Instructions page 78

73

Gatsby Tee Jill Hanratty

74

Swanky Sweater Natasha Robarge

Instructions page 29

Instructions page 80

Instructions page 31

20

Sahara Afghan Deborah Bagley

20

Instructions page 83

76

Swell Infinity Cowl Suzanne Hirth

Patagonia Slipper Socks Brenda K. B. Anderson

77

Speakeasy Shawl Annelies Baes

Instructions page 34

Apartment Living 88 Lofty Pouf Anne Weil

Instructions page 33

22

Yuma Headband Jennifer Pionk

23

Mojave Gauntlets Lori Steinberg

Instructions page 85

40

Blanket Statement Erin Black

89

Head Over Hexi Headboard Vickie Howell

40

90

No. 1 Fan Necklace Mary Jane Hall

42

90

Sphere Necklace Mary Jane Hall

90

Presto Necklace Vickie Howell

90

Medallion Necklace Mary Jane Hall

43

90

Tassels Necklace Mary Jane Hall

92

Basket Cases Meredith Crawford

92

Pillow Popper Sue Perez

94

Home Grown Plant Cozy Vickie Howell

Instructions page 98

Instructions page 98

Film Noir Shawl Keilah Fok Instructions page 54

Instructions page 99

Hi-Fi Hat Vickie Howell Instructions page 55

Wide Open Spaces 56 Limitless Coat Teva Durham

Instructions page 99

Instructions page 100

Instructions page 62

58

Lacuna Cowl Courtney Kelley

Instructions page 101

Instructions page 66

58

Less Traveled Shawl the Double-Stitch Twins Instructions page 67

60

Expanse Scarf Vickie Howell Instructions page 69

61

Breadth Beanie Sara Dudek Instructions page 69

Photo Index Editor’s Letter Crochet Basics Glossary Project Designers Back Page

Instructions page 97

Nightshade Skirt Doris Chan Instructions page 47

002 004 107 114 118 120

Instructions page 105

Mod Squad Bag Brett Bara Instructions page 46

Departments

Instructions page 96

88

Instructions page 37

Instructions page 44

Cool Tools Profile: Lisa Anderson Shaffer Crocheters to Watch Crochet on Instagram TV & Podcasts to Crochet By

Instructions page 86

Instructions page 36

Black & White 38 Jailhouse Rock Pullover Melissa Leapman

06 08 12 13 14

Instructions page 102

Instructions page 105

Above: Jailhouse Rock Pullover, page 38. On the cover: Blanket Statement, page 88. Lofty Pouf, page 88. Harper Point Photography


Photo Index | your handy visual guide

Boho goes west

Sahara Afghan Pages 20, 33

Colorado Poncho Pages 18, 29

Explore these mod looks

Nightshade Skirt Pages 40, 47

Mod Squad Bag Pages 40, 46

Projects that play with negative space

2017

Sonoran Shrug Pages 18, 31

Yuma Headband Pages 22, 36

Patagonia Slipper Socks Pages 20, 34

Mojave Gauntlets Pages 23, 37

2 Crochetscene

Gobi Dress Pages 16, 24

Jailhouse Rock Pullover Pages 38, 44

Film Noir Shawl Pages 42, 54

Hi-Fi Hat Pages 43, 55

Limitless Coat Pages 56, 62

Lacuna Cowl Pages 58, 66

Less Traveled Shawl Pages 58, 67


Thread

Lightly Expanse Scarf Pages 60, 69

Breadth Beanie Pages 61, 69

Gatsby Tee Pages 73, 80

Swanky Sweater Pages 74, 83

Bee’s Knees Beret Pages 72, 78

Swell Infinity Cowl Pages 76, 85

Speakeasy Shawl Pages 77, 86

Apartment Living Crochet for your trendy pad

Head Over Hexi Headboard Pages 89, 97

Medallion Necklace Pages 90, 99

Tassels Necklace Pages 90, 100

Lofty Pouf Pages 88, 96

Blanket Statement Pages 88, 105

No. 1 Fan Necklace Pages 90, 98

Sphere Necklace Pages 90, 98

Presto Necklace Pages 90, 99

Basket Cases Pages 92, 101

Pillow Popper Pages 92, 102

Home Grown Plant Cozy Pages 94, 105

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Editor’s Letter | Welcome to Crochetscene!

PS

Be sure to check out my other collaboration with Interweave: Yarn Craft by Vickie Howell knit and crochet kits (available at Interweavestore.com!).

Special Issue

Content Strategist Lisa Shroyer Editors Marcy Smith, Vickie Howell Managing Editor Kathy Mallo Assistant Editor Dana Bincer Project Editor Susanna Tobias Technical Editors Joan Beebe, Lindsay Glenn, Marty Miller, Kristine Mullen, Daniela Nii, Amy Polcyn, Charles Voth

Copy Editor Laurel Robinson Proofreader Nancy Arndt Online Editor Toni Rexroat

......................................................................................

Design Manager Debbie Long Art Director Kit Kinseth Technical Illustration Joan Beebe, Kristine Mullen, Daniela Nii, Amy Polcyn, Charles Voth Photography Harper Point Photography Staff Photographer George Boe Photostyling Tina Gill Hair & Makeup Liz Wegrzyn, Candace Tucker ...................................................................................... Advertising Managers Diane Kocal, Sally Finnegan Ad Trafficker Mary Lutz Classified Advertising Jennifer Rein Marketing Manager, eCommerce Melissa Gugelman

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Nearly a year ago, I was brainstorming with Lisa Shroyer, Interweave’s content strategist, about how best we could collaborate. One idea I really liked was being guest editor for the 2017 issue of Crochetscene under the guidance of the smart, clever, fellow-Scorpio and Editor Marcy Smith. I didn’t want my “guest editor” role to be only a vanity title. I wanted to work. I wanted to create. So I rolled up my sleeves and dove in. Creating an issue of a crochet magazine calls for copious amounts of designer submissions and a coupla people with big ideas. It was easy to find the latter (see aforementioned Scorpio dynamic duo). As for the former, Marcy showed up at my house in Austin with a huge box of submissions. And for an action-packed forty-eight hours— with breaks only for sleep, a visit to the LYS, and possibly a bevvie or two—we talked over visions, designs, and yarn. We took over my office, then migrated to the kitchen table, and even absconded with my daughter’s whiteboard easel to hold our sticky-note map for the issue-to-be. It was intense. It was a blast! During our time together in Austin, and for the weeks and months that came afterward, Marcy and I rounded out story themes: Hi, Desert! (jewel-toned garments channeled through Coachella’s eye), Black & White (because . . . those noncolor colors are the bomb!), Apartment Living (for those who balance smaller spaces with kitsch and cool), Wide Open Spaces (a celebration of bulky yarn + open-weave stitchwork), and Thread Lightly (a finer-gauge look and modern take on flapper style). The culmination of this experience for me was the photo shoot in Fort Collins. I walked in and was greeted with open arms. Art Director Kit had great ideas and was happy to embrace mine. Assistant Editor Dana was a wonderful right hand. The photographer, Nate, was both fun and ridiculously talented. And the stylist, Tina, brought life to my mood boards in a way that made me swoon. I was able to stay for only two of the three days of shooting, but I left with confidence that these people had it covered. I wanted to be a part of a magazine team. Thanks to Marcy and all the Interweave peeps, I got to do all of that. So, my crochet community, I hope you enjoy these pages of crochet happy. They were hooked with love and made with friends. Enjoy! xx, Vickie e

Crochetscene is a special issue of Interweave Crochet® (ISSN 19370008) published by Interweave, a division of F+W Media, Inc., 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5546. (800) 272-2193. All contents of this issue of Crochetscene are copyrighted by F+W Media, Inc., 2016. All rights reserved. Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at interweavecrochet.com/corrections.asp. Crochetscene, a special issue of Interweave Crochet® does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Crochetscene. Nor does Crochetscene evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Crochetscene. Visit the Interweave Crochet® website at interweavecrochet.com. For advertising info, call Diane Kocal at (317) 482-0120, email dkocal@interweave.com, or visit the website at interweavecrochet.com. For sales info, call (317) 482-0120, email sales@interweave.com. For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, email crochet@interweave.com, or write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576 U.S. & Canadian Customer Service: (800) 835-6187 International Customer Service: (515) 237-3657 Fax Number: (712) 733-1277 Retailers: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in your store please call (800) 289-0963 or email sales@fwcommunity.com.

Founder, Creative Director Linda Ligon General Manager John Bolton Director of Content Strategy Stephen Koenig

......................................................................................

F+W, A Content + eCommerce Company

Chief Executive Officer Thomas F. X. Beusse Chief Financial Officer James L. Ogle Chief Operating Officer Joe Seibert Chief Technology Officer Joe Romello Chief Content Strategist Steve Madden Vice President Manufacturing & Logistics Phil Graham Newsstand Sales Scott T. Hill scott.hill@procirc.com

Enjoy the entire family of Interweave Fiber Magazines: Handwoven • Interweave Knits • Interweave Crochet • Knitscene • knit.wear • PieceWork • Spin.Off

Visit us on the Web crochetme.com • interweave.com • fwmedia.com


® ®


Vic's Picks | things you’ll love

Cool Tools

I

The right tool can make all the difference in your crochet experience! Check out these great crochet products.

Flower Power Scissors by needlegoods on Etsy Feel the power every time you snip your yarn! These charming scissors are just one style of many available from needlegoods.

www.bit.ly/flower-scissors

Handmade Labels by Sublime Stitching

Fox Yarn Bowl by Barruntando on Etsy

Tag your handmades with a label that reflects your personality with these woven labels from Sublime Stitching Embroidery.

So done with your yarn balls rolling away while you crochet? Let these cunning fox yarn bowls keep them in check while whimsy-ing up your dĂŠcor.

www.bit.ly/crochet-labels

www.bit.ly/fox-bowl

Granny square design by Julia Monroe. Potholder design by Amy Peppler Adams.

Spoonflower Crochet Fabric Want to whip up a sewing project that reflects your love of crochet? Look no further than Spoonflower, an on-demand fabric producer. P.S. Learn more about Spoonflower on Episode 2 of the CRAFTish podcast (www.vickiehowell.com/craftish/), where Vickie talks with Spoonflower cofounder Stephen Fraser.

Llamarama Small Pencil Case by Knit Picks Llet these llovely llamas tote your hooks and notions. No more digging through the couch cushions for your size H hook!

www.bit.ly/llama-case

www.spoonflower.com

Amour Crochet Hooks With their ergonomic handles and smooth glide, the Amour hooks by Clover will make crocheting a pleasure! Shown here are sizes 12 mm, P/Q (15 mm) (shown above with bowl), and (M/N 9.0 mm). Give the special 12 mm size a whirl making the Hi-Fi Hat (page 43).

www.clover-usa.com

Crochet Taxidermy Taylor Hart, Storey Publishing Crochet whimsy for your walls! Crochet Taxidermy includes patterns for thirty animal heads from farm to forest, sea to safari. The basic crochet stitches are easy-peasy, so you can whip up a moose or a mouse in no time. Paperback, 208 pages, $14.95, ISBN: 978-1612127361

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Listen While You Crochet!

Audiobooks are a great way to stay on top of your reading while your hands are busy crocheting. Try one of these bestsellers and you’re sure to get hooked.

Visit TryAudiobooks.com/crafter for more listening suggestions and a FREE AUDIOBOOK.

Also available in hardcover and eBook formats.


Vic's Picks | things you’ll love

Meet Crochet Artist Lisa Anderson Shaffer Vickie Howell

Lisa Anderson Shaffer is a fellow CreativeLive instructor and fiber artist. She and I recently chatted on my podcast, CRAFT*ish, about her life as a working artist, her business Zelma Rose, and her crochet installation collection, Aerial. Here’s a bit of that conversation.

look like. I can actually listen to the materials and have more flexibility in the design, which ultimately makes me happier and, I think, makes for a better design.

VH: You have a wonderful mind-set of allowing the fluidity of the

VH: You’ve explored many artistic mediums and are currently a

Sarah Deragon

creative process to happen—to let the materials shine through in your work. Where does that “permission slip” come from to just let the process be what it will be? LAS: I think it’s partly due to growing up in a creative household. My mom is an artist— she started out as a visual merchandiser for windows in Bloomingdale’s in Manhattan, then was an arts educator, so we just always had stuff around. We had bolts of fabric, trimming, anything you can imagine that would be discarded from window displays during the pre-recycling days. My mom said that the stuff was there for me to use—to do whatever I wanted with it—and there was no right and wrong with art supplies. I was being encouraged to experiment from a very early age.

VH: You don’t sketch designs, but rather write down the ideas for your fiber art and jewelry pieces in words. Talk about that choice. LAS: For me as an artist, there’s so much frustration and competition in the idea in my mind and what is actually possible when you’re fabricating something physically. I feel like I want to allow the space and conversation between the physical materials and the idea, instead of having this very exact image that I’ve put onto paper about what [a design] is supposed to

fiber artist. Can you share how that came about?

LAS: My business, Zelma Rose, is named after both of my grandmothers. One of them, Rosemarie, is still alive at ninety-three years old and crochets for an hour every day. She taught me how to knit. And Zelma always had a needlepoint easel up and invited me to watch while I handed her whatever color thread she needed. Needlework as a crafting element was always very alive [in my family]. I was always playing with it when I was very young. Then when I was in art school, my body of work was essentially fiber art. I was a fiber artist in the late nineties when that wasn’t necessarily a thing that was recognized. Now when you say “fiber artist,” the general population goes, “Okay, that means knit, crochet, quilting, weaving, or something within that realm.” The body of work I was doing for the culmination of my degree was a quilt—cross-stitch on cheesecloth, drawing and sewing things onto tea bags. It was a multitude of things that today would no doubt be categorized as fiber arts and definitely involved needlework, but was then considered “mixed media.” So, I feel like I’ve been doing it for a very long time. It initially had an undercurrent for me as being very “craft,” then it turned into a design element for my jewelry, then very recently into a fine art for me.

VVH: You use a range of knotting techniques, e embroidery, and other needle arts in your p products and artwork. Why was crochet the rright form of fiber expression for your Aerial iinstallation, and what was the inspiration b behind the collection? LLAS: My fascination with the ever-changing fflux of nature began when we moved to West M Marin [California] nearly three years ago. S Surrounded by sweeping views of the nearby m mountains while confronted with intimate d details of a single leaf raised a curiosity and h heightened my sensitivity to viewing both p perspectives simultaneously. Aerial is an iinvitation to experience both the faraway and tthe intimate details of nature all at once: to ssee not only the coastline, but also each grain o of sand, all at the same time—all the while cconfronted by the fact that the same location a at the same time on the next day will be comp pletely different. Forever temporary. Aerial 1 Lisa Anderson Schaffer Lisa Anderson Shaffer 8 Crochetscene

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Aerial 2 (with detail below) Lisa Anderson Schaffer

The current manifestation of Aerial was about a year in the making. It started out as cross-stitch on varioussized hoops. While beautiful and satisfying to work on, the whole process just didn’t feel right. Like it hadn’t reached where it was supposed to go. I had two choices: either set it aside or just keep working and have faith that something would shift. I had a deepseated feeling that the work itself, the process of creating these pieces, needed to be more physical. I needed to be moving more, working with heavier materials, something a little less delicate. When I first picked up the cord I use now, and imagined the works more like sculptures, I knew crochet would be perfect. The physical act of working the cord with the hook, the lifting of the weight of the cord once crocheted, and the texture and pattern of finished chains met all the needs of the piece, both artistic and functional. I was moving more, engaged both physically and artistically with the piece, and crochet provided a sturdy and textured supportive structure to lay the foundation for the more detailed work of the knots and embroidery.

Lisa Anderson Shaffer

Alice Wu

Lisa Anderson Shaffer

Installing Aerial 2 Lisa Anderson Schaffer

CRAFT*ish Listen to the full conversation between Vickie and Lisa on CRAFT*ish (vickiehowell.com/craftish).

Alice Wu

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{Special Advertising Section}

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❋ ❋

Check out these great gift ideas from some of our advertising partners and get shopping!

Denise Interchangeable Denise2Go for Crochet: pretty, palmsized, and packed with stitching potential! Ideal for Tunisian or standard crochet and available in a variety of colorful cases. Interchangeable with all Denise products. Made in the USA. www.knitdenise.com

Red Heart® Simone’s Open Wave Shawl This modern looking shawl is quick to crochet and makes a great gift or holiday fashion accessory. Made with Red Heart Gleam yarn it has a metallic thread wrapped around it. A go-to piece that works for casual or dressy occasions. Learn more @ www.RedHeart.com

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{Special Advertising Section}

Yarnbox Subscription Club Knitting Zone From practical to exotic, Nirvana Needle Arts Crochet Hook Gift Sets are sure to please. Sets are available in ebony, bone and maple and come in an attractive case. Don’t you deserve one? www.KnittingZone.com.

Yarnbox delivers a surprise package of high quality, hand-dyed yarn and beautiful patterns straight to your door each month. With multiple, customizable options, it’s the perfect gift. www.yarnbox.com 630-343-YARN

Tahki Yarns Create your own holiday magic. Crochet this lacy shawl in Stacy Charles Fine Yarns’ LUNA—an elegant blend of mohair and silk with a hint of sparkling metallic. 718-326-4433 www.tahkistacycharles.com

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Vic's Picks | things you’ll love

Ones to Watch

I Check it out!

Pip Linco

lnes • Meet Me at Mike’s Location: Australia Her crochet scene: I love to use sim

Taylor Hart •

Nothing But a Pigeon

Location: Austin, Texas chet critters create fun, whimsical cro Her crochet scene: I love to

ple’s faces. that bring smiles to peo brings an aniical take on taxidermy ims wh ’s lor Tay ch: wat Why t craft. che cro the to ster coolness mal friendliness and hip rmy ide Tax t che Cro k boo st project: her brand-new

ple techniques and une or cleverly placed color xpected combinations to create cute, nostalgic projects. Why watch: Her bright, vin tage-kitsch crochet blo g posts will make you swoon. Latest project: A blanket for a friend’s baby. I’m using budgie(budgerigar) inspired col ors and calling it the Bu dgie Snuggler Blanket. I’m using harleq uin stitch, which is my current favorite. Connect online:

ww w.meetmeatmikes.c om

Late

(Potter Craft)

geon.com apig ne: nee: ww w.nothingbutap onliline ectt onli nec Connnnec Co

Annelies Baes • Vicarno Crochet Designs An et Artist t Ahern • Croch

Pa

geles

LLocation: Lo c Belgium Herr crochet scene: My crochet scene is mostly garments and H He use it lends

ca Location: Los An rm crochet be d I enjoy freefo e: , portraits, an en es sc t en he sc oc het His cr is ation. I croc w ith paint, improv ed, as itself well to can be achiev many ef fect s e ve the ef fect nc si ha s es he ur itc sculpt n different st s; rn ya nt ate inspir atio re by using diffe rn is the ultim Ya . es ok tr hs br us of a variet y of ction. ge endless sele mind and chan because of its ill blow your w t ar d te he croc Why watch: His het! yarn ink about croc ther DTLA , a the w ay you th nt ar tist at Ga de si re an e ng th hi am finis Latest project: I les, w here I am s. ow n Los Ange reds of flower nd hu d an shop in dow nt its ra rt po ze si elif om installation of atahernart .c

Connect online:

shawls. Shawls are versatile and fun to design, and they make sha wonderful accessories. I also love designing top-down seamwo less cardigans with great fit. les Why to watch: Annelies is a prolific designer who often incorpoW Wh rat rates a bit of lace into her projects. Her designs are bright, fun, a and nd easy to wear. Latest Late La te project: I am working on a triangular shawl made with geometrical me motifs in a lovely hand-dyed red sock yarn and a duneflower fllow blanket with flowers. (Be sure to check out Annelies’s Speakeasy Spe Shawl on page 77!)

Connect Co on online: eng.vicarno.com

w w w.p

All photos courtesy of the crochet designers. 12 Crochetscene

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Vic's Picks | things you’ll love

Insta

Inspo!

@interweavecraft @vickiehowell

Want to fuel your creative engine? Just follow these crocheters on Instagram!

@the.hook.nook (Salem, OR)

@Kikalite (Berlin)

@marretjeroos (The Netherlands)

@puurcreatief (The Netherlands)

@twinkiechan (San Francisco, CA)

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Vic's Picks | things you’ll love

Watch + listen Binge Watch On a crochet bender? Here are our Top Ten shows to stitch to: Stranger Things (NETFLIX) Grab some eighties mohair! Go up a hook size, though—scary moments tighten gauge.

Call the Midwife (PBS) This calls for a baby blanket. Bloodline, 2 seasons (NETFLIX) The ties that bind are as strong as super-bulky cotton yarn!

The Blacklist, 3 seasons (CABLE AND ONLINE) Stop every few stitches to look over your shoulder. Transparent (AMAZON) Live a little: crochet something sparkly. Grace and Frankie (NETFLIX) Granny squares are just right. The Path (HULU) Go for a communal project. Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt (NETFLIX) This calls for a variegated yarn! Orange Is the New Black, 4 seasons (NETFLIX) Crocheted ponchos have high trade value in a women’s prison.  Murdoch Mysteries (CBC) Pop a bonbon every time you see crochet!

Listen & Learn When you have to keep your eyes on your crochet, check out our top picks for podcasts. CRAFTY INSPIRATION

CRAFTish Vickie Howell talks with makers—crocheters and quilters, writers and musicians, photographers and more—about their creative journeys. Listening to others talk about their craft while you are working on your own craft is a lovely thing. (ITUNES, STITCHER, SOUNDCLOUD) Profit. Power. Pursuit. Tara Gentile of CreativeLive talks with artists, entrepreneurs, businesspeople, and more about building a creative business. (ITUNES, STITCHER,

RSS FEED, ANDROID)

Crafty Planner A podcast about crafting and the creative process with Sandi Sawa Hazlewood. (ITUNES, GOOGLE PLAY,

STITCHER)

Power Purls Podcast Kara Gott Warner, editor of Creative Knitting magazine, talks with knitters and other crafters about life in the knitting business. (ITUNES, STITCHER, SOUNDCLOUD)

Pomcast Pom Pom Quarterly Editor Lydia and her pal Sophie chat with each other and, occasionally, other folks about fibery things. (SOUNDCLOUD)

NONCRAFTY LISTENS

Fresh Air NPR’s Terry Gross has probing, insightful interviews with all manner of people. Produced at WHYY-FM in Philadelphia. (ITUNES, STITCHER, RSS LINK) Nerdist Chris Hardwick interviews writers, actors, and producers from a true “fan boy” perspective. (ITUNES) This Song Elizabeth McQueen of KUTX in Austin explores the songs that changed the lives of her musician guests.

(ITUNES, RSS FEED)

Serial From the creators of NPR’s This American Life, this podcast features Sarah Koenig following a single story over a season, from Chicago’s WBEZ. (ITUNES, PANDORA, STITCHER, RSS FEED)

Two Guys on Your Head (NPR) Dr. Art Markman and Dr. Bob Duke explain how our brains work through discussions of topics as varied as pet peeves, politeness, and procrastination.

(ITUNES, RSS FEED)

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Boho B h goes westt

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Gobi Dress by Annastasia Cruz In the bodice of this stunning dress, panels of petite granny squares are separated by figure-flattering multicolored stripes. The mesh skirt is worked in the round, ending with an echo of the bodice pattern. Yarn Nazli Gelin Garden 10 (distributed by Universal Yarn). Page 24.

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Sonoran Shrug by Linda Skuja Classic granny stitches and filet crochet meet in a modern Bohemian-style cardigan. The loopy fringe is an absolute must. The pattern is designed for gratification: each row is shorter than the previous one. Yarn Debbie Bliss Rialto DK (distributed by Knitting Fever). Page 31. < Colorado Poncho by Brenda K. B. Anderson This poncho is crocheted sideways, changing from one stitch pattern to another to create a nice variety of textures. Shaping at the shoulder flatters the figure and reduces bulk. This is just the garment when you want to look fabulous but secretly just want to cozy up inside a blanket. Yarn Plymouth Yarn Galway Chunky. Page 29.

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Patagonia Slipper Socks by Brenda K. B. Anderson These slipper socks were inspired by the mukluks made in northern Minnesota, where folks take footwear very seriously when the days start to get shorter. The thick cables and furry cuffs bring these slipper socks to a new level of coziness. Yarn Dale Garn Hegre and Monjita (distributed by Mango Moon). Page 34. < Sahara Afghan by Deborah Bagley This lacy floral afghan is a perfect on-the-go project. Crochet each blossom in minutes, then join as you go with the previous flower to create long blooming strips that are connected with quick latticework. Yarn Cascade Yarns 128 Superwash. Page 33.

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Mojave Gauntlets by Lori Steinberg These dramatic fingerless gauntlets are worked in a varied but simple texture pattern with Aztec-inspired colors. Yarn Shibui Knits Cima. Page 37. < Yuma Headband by Jennifer Pionk Tame your tresses with this quick granny-festooned headband with corset-style closure and bead trim. Yarn Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Fingering. Page 36.

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Hi, Desert

Cluster (cl): [Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook.

First Granny Square

Annastasia Cruz

1

2

3

4

1-Side Join Granny Square Nazli Gelin Garden 10 (distributed by Universal Yarn) universalyarn.com

Getting Started

Notes

Rnds 1–2: Work Rnds 1–2 of first granny square.

Shell-Joined First Granny Square Rnds 1–2: Work Rnds 1–2 of first granny square. Rnd 3 (join): Join MC with sl st in any ch-3 sp, (beg sh, ch 3, sh) in same sp, sh in sp bet next 2 shs, (sh, ch 3, sh) in next ch-3 sp, sh in sp bet next 2 shs, (sh, ch 1, sl st in

31 (34, 37, 40, 43, 46)" 79 (86.5, 94, 101.5, 109, 117) cm

19" 48.5 cm

Bodice is worked first from the waist up. Front, back, and side gussets are sewn together, then skirt is picked up and worked in the round from the waist down. Each granny square is worked in three colors with Round 3 always in MC. Color combinations are listed as pairs for the first two rounds of the granny square. Rows of granny squares are joined as you go.

2-Side Join Granny Square

Rnds 1–2: Work Rnds 1–2 of first granny square. Rnd 3 (join): Join MC with sl st in any ch-3 sp, (beg sh, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 sp of adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in same sp, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, (sh, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 sp of adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square, *sl st bet next 2 shs of adjacent square, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, sl st bet next 2 shs of adjacent square**, (sh, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 sp of diagonally adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square; rep from * 2 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 shs, 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off.

9¼" 23.5 cm

Finished Size 31 (34, 37, 40, 43, 46)" chest circumference. Sample shown measures 34", modeled with 1" ease. Yarn Nazli Gelin Garden 10 (distributed by Universal Yarn) (100% Egyptian Giza mercerized cotton; 306 yd [280 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #700-34, 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9) balls (light brown; MC), #700-39 (pink; A), #700-49 (blue; B), #700-04 (yellow; C), #700-54 (orange; D), 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) ball(s) each. Hook Size 5 (1.9 mm) steel hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Tapestry needle. Gauge Granny square = 11⁄2"; 18 dc and 8 rows = 2"; 8 shs and 13 rows = 3".

Rnds 1–2: Work Rnds 1–2 of first square. Rnd 3 (join): Join MC with sl st in any ch-3 sp, (beg sh, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 sp of adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in same ch-3 sp of current square, sl st bet next 2 shs of adjacent square, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, sl st bet next 2 shs of adjacent square, (sh, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 sp of adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square, cont on current square, sh in sp bet next 2 shs, [(sh, ch 3, sh) in next ch-3 sp, sh in sp bet next 2 shs] 2 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 shs, 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off.

3-Side Join Granny Square

dress

Stitch Guide

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9¼" 23.5 cm

Beginning shell (beg sh): Ch 3, 2 dc in indicated st or sp. Shell (sh): 3 dc in indicated st or sp. Beginning cluster (beg-cl): Ch 2, [yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook.

54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84)" 137 (152.5, 167.5, 183, 198, 213.5) cm

27 (30, 33, 36, 39, 42)" 68.5 (76, 84, 91.5, 99, 106.5) cm

GOBI DRESS

With Color 1, ch 4, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: With Color 1, beg sh (see above) in ring, ch 3, *sh (see above) in ring, ch 3; rep from * 2 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—4 shs, 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off. Rnd 2: Join Color 2 with sl st in any ch-3 sp, (beg sh, ch 3, sh) in same sp, (sh, ch 3, sh) in next 3 ch-3 sps, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—8 shs, 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off. Rnd 3: Join MC with sl st in any ch-3 sp, (beg sh, ch 3, sh) in same sp, sh in sp bet next 2 shs, [(sh, ch 3, sh) in next ch-3 sp, sh in sp bet next 2 shs] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 shs, 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off.

Rnd 3 (join): Join MC with sl st in any ch-3 sp, (beg sh, ch 3, sh) in same sp, sh in sp bet next 2 shs, (sh, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 sp of adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square, *sl st bet next 2 shs of adjacent square, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, sl st bet next 2 shs of adjacent square**, (sh, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 sp of diagonally adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square, rep from * to **, (sh, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 sp of adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 shs, 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off.


COLOR COLLECTION BY VICKIE HOWELL

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c d

a a | #756 Upward Spiral Beanie

b | #754 Ziggy Scarf

b c | #757 Curvaceous Cowl

yarn.com 800.367.9327

d | #755 Arrow Head Hat

75 SERVICE CENTER ROAD, NORTHAMPTON, MA


Hi, Desert

first dc of any sh of color stripes, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square, sk next 3 sts of shell edge, sl st in next st of shell edge, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, sk next 3 sts of shell edge, sl st in next st of shell edge, sk next 3 sts of shell edge, (sh, ch 1, sl st in next st of sh edge, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 shs, 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off.

Shell-Joined 2-Side Join Granny Square Rnds 1–2: Work Rnds 1–2 of first granny square. Rnd 3 (join): Join MC with sl st in any ch-3 sp, (beg sh, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 of adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in same sp of current square, sl st in bet next 2 shs of adjacent square, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, sl st in bet next 2 shs of adjacent square, (sh, ch 1, sl st in same dc of sh edge as adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square, sk next 3 sts of shell edge, sl st in next st of shell edge, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, sk next 3 sts of shell edge, sl st in next st of shell edge, sk next 3 sts of shell edge, (sh, ch 1, sl st in next st of sh edge, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square, cont on current square, sh in sp bet next 2 shs, (sh, ch 3, sh) in next ch-3 sp, sh in sp bet next 2 shs, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 shs, 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off.

Joining of Granny Squares

Shell-Joined 3-Side Join Granny Square Rnds 1–2: Work Rnds 1–2 of first granny square. Rnd 3 (join): Join MC with sl st in any ch-3 sp, (beg sh, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 of adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in same sp of current square, *sl st in bet next 2 shs of adjacent square, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, sl st in bet next 2 shs of adjacent square**, (sh, ch 1, sl st in same dc of sh edge as adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square, sk next 3 sts of shell edge, sl st in next st of shell edge, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, sk next 3 sts of shell edge, sl st in next st of shell edge, sk next 3 sts of shell edge, (sh, ch 1, sl st in same dc of sh edge as adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in next ch-3 sp of current square, rep from * to **, (sh, ch 1, sl st in ch-3 sp of adjacent square, ch 1, sh) in next

3

2

1-side join granny square

2-side join granny square

3

3 2

3 1

2

Stitch Key = slip stitch (sl st) = chain (ch) = double crochet (dc) first granny square 26 Crochetscene

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1-side join granny square

2


ch-3 sp of current square, sh in sp bet next 2 shs of current square, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 shs, 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off.

Pattern FRONT BODICE First granny square strip: Work 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) joined granny squares with foll color combinations (see Notes) from left to right: *square 1 with A/D, square 2 with C/B, square 3 with D/A, square 4 with B/C; rep from * for number of squares needed. Second granny square strip: Work 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) joined granny squares, attaching squares to top edge of first strip, with foll color combinations from left to right: *square 1 with D/B, square 2 with C/D, square 3 with A/C, square 4 with B/A; rep from * for number of squares needed.

Color stripes: Row 1: With RS facing, join MC with sl st in 2nd ch of first ch-3 sp in top right corner of last strip, beg sh in same sp as join,*[sh bet next 2 shs] 2 times**, sh in ch-3 sp before and after join; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sh in 2nd ch of last ch-3 sp—36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56) shs. Fasten off. Row 2: With RS facing, join D with sl st in

top of beg ch-3 of Row 1, ch 3, [sh bet next 2 shs] across, dc in last dc—35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 55) shs rem. Fasten off. Row 3: With RS facing, join B with sl st in beg ch-3 sp of Row 2, beg sh in same sp, [sh bet next 2 shs], sh in last dc—36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56) shs. Fasten off. Rows 4–13: Rep Rows 2–3, changing color each row as foll: *MC, A, C, MC**, D, B; rep from * 1 time, ending rep at **. Third granny square strip: Work in same color combinations as for second granny square strip. Using MC and tapestry needle, whipstitch bottom edge of strip to top edge of bodice, lining up granny squares with granny squares of first 2 strips. Fourth granny square strip: Work 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) joined granny squares, attaching squares to top edge of last strip, with foll color combinations from left to right: *square 1 with C/A, square 2 with D/C, square 3 with B/D, square 4 with A/B; rep from * for number of squares needed.

BACK BODICE Work as for front bodice but use foll color combinations for granny square strips: First granny square strip: *Square 1

with B/C, square 2 with D/A, square 3 with C/B, square 4 with A/D; rep from * for number of squares needed. Second granny square strip: *Square 1 with B/A, square 2 with A/C, square 3 with C/D, square 4 with D/B; rep from * for number of squares needed. Third granny square strip: Work in same color combinations as for second granny square strip of back bodice. Fourth granny square strip: *Square 1 with A/B, square 2 with B/D, square 3 with D/C, square 4 with C/A; rep from * for number of squares needed.

Bodice Side Gusset (make 2) With MC, ch 21. Row 1: (RS) Dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped 3 ch count as dc), dc across, turn—18 dc. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc across, turn. Row 3: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn—2 sts dec’d. Rows 4–5: Ch 3, dc across, turn. Rows 6–23: Rep Rows 3–5—4 sts rem. Row 24: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog—2 sts rem. Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing.

Joining of Granny Squares in the Round and to Shell Edge

3

3

2

1-side join granny square

2-side join granny square

2

3-side join granny square

2

3

3

3

3

2

2

3

shell-joined 2 first granny square

shell-joined 2-side join granny square

shell-joined 3-side join granny square

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Hi, Desert

Assemble bodice:

Bodice bottom edging:

With RS facing, insert bodice side gussets between front and back bodice pieces, wide gusset edge matching up with top edge of bodice pieces and gusset tip with beg of color stripes. Using whipstitch, sew gusset sides to bodice sides.

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join MC with sl st in first ch-3 sp of granny square at a side seam, ch 1, sc in same sp as join, sc in next 9 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp, *sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next 9 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—198 (220, 242, 264, 286, 308) sc. Rnds 2–3: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Do not fasten off.

Bodice top edging: Rnd 1: With RS facing, join MC with sl st in first ch-3 sp of granny square at a side seam, ch 1, sc in same sp as join, sc in every dc and sc in each ch-3 sp around, sl st in first sc to join. Rnds 2–4: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Skirt mesh: Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 3, sk next sc, *sc in next sc, ch 3, sk next sc; rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in next st, (ch 1, hdc) in first sc (counts as ch-3 sp) to join—99 (110, 121, 132, 143, 154) ch-3 sps. Rnds 2–9: Ch 1, sc in first ch-3 sp, beg-cl (see Stitch Guide) in same sp, ch 3, [cl (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] around, (ch 1, hdc) in top of beg-cl (counts as ch-3 sp) to join. Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in first ch-3 sp, beg-cl in same sp, ch 4, [cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 4], (ch 1, dc) in top of beg-cl (counts as ch-4 sp) to join—99 (110, 121, 132, 143, 154) ch-4 sps. Rnds 11–18: Ch 1, sc in first ch-4 sp, beg-cl in same sp, ch 4, [cl in next ch-4 sp, ch 4] around, (ch 1, dc) in top of beg-cl (counts as ch-4 sp) to join. Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in first ch-4 sp, beg-cl in same sp, ch 5, [cl in next ch-4 sp, ch 5], (ch 2, dc) in top of beg-cl (counts as ch-5 sp) to join—99 (110, 121, 132, 143, 154) ch-5 sps. Rnds 20–27: Ch 1, sc in first ch-5 sp, beg-cl in same sp, ch 5, [cl in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] around, (ch 2, dc) in top of beg-cl (counts as ch-5 sp) to join.

Rnd 28: Ch 1, sc in first ch-5 sp, beg-cl in same sp, ch 6, [cl in next ch-5 sp, ch 6] around, (ch 2, tr) in top of beg-cl (counts as ch-6 sp) to join—99 (110, 121, 132, 143, 154) ch-6 sps. Rnds 29–36: Ch 1, sc in first ch-6 sp, begcl in same sp, ch 6, [cl in next ch-6 sp, ch 6] around, (ch 2, tr) in top of beg-cl (counts as ch-6 sp) to join. Rnd 37: Beg sh in first ch-6 sp, ch 1, [sh in next ch-6 sp, ch 1] around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—99 (110, 121, 132, 143, 154) shs, 99 (110, 121, 132, 143, 154) ch-1 sps. Rnd 38: Ch 1, counting ch as sts, *sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—432 (480, 528, 576, 624, 672) sc. Rnds 39–41: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Skirt edging: First granny square rnd: Work 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56) joined granny squares with foll color combinations from left to right: *square 1 with A/C, square 2 with C/D, square 3 with D/B, square 4 with B/A; rep from * for number of squares needed, joining last square to first square. Using MC and tapestry needle, whipstitch bottom edge of strip last rnd of skirt mesh. Second granny square rnd: Work 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56) joined granny squares, attaching squares to top edge of first strip, with foll color combinations from left to right: *square 1 with D/A, square 2 with C/B, square 3 with A/D, square 4 with B/C; rep from * for number of squares needed, joining last square to first square.

Color stripes: Row 1: With RS facing, join MC with sl st in first ch-3 sp of any granny square, beg sh in same sp, *[sh bet next 2 shs] 2 times**, sh in ch-3 sp before and after join; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sh in last ch-3 sp, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—144 (160, 176, 192, 208, 224) shs. Fasten off. Row 2: With RS facing, join D with sl st in any sp bet 2 shs, beg sh in same sp, [sh bet next 2 shs] around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off. Rows 3–13: Rep Row 2, changing color each row as foll: *B, MC, A, C, MC**, D; rep from * 1 time, ending at rep **. Third granny square rnd: Work 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56) shell-joined granny squares with foll color combinations from left to right: *square 1 with B/D, square 2 with D/C, square 3 with C/A, square 4 with A/B; rep from * for number of squares needed, lining up granny squares with granny squares of first 2 rnds and joining last square to first square. Fourth granny square rnd: Work in same color combinations as for first

28 Crochetscene

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granny square rnd, attaching squares to top edge of last strip and joining last square to first square. Fasten off.

Bottom edge: Rnd 1: With RS facing, join MC with sl st in first ch-3 sp of any granny square, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 9 dc, 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, *sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next 9 dc, 2 sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—432 (480, 528, 576, 624, 672) sc. Rnds 2–4: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING Strap (make 2) With MC, ch 7. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across, turn—6 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc across, turn. Rep Row 2 until strap measures 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16)" or desired length, allowing for stretch. Fasten off. Whipstitch ends of straps to front and back of bodice about 31⁄2 (33⁄4, 4, 41⁄4, 41⁄2, 5)" from under arm or where most comfortable. Weave in ends.

COLORADO PONCHO

Brenda K. B. Anderson

2

3

4

Notes Poncho is worked sideways in three separate pieces (front, back, and cowl) and stitched together. Ribbing is worked directly onto the poncho after pieces have been stitched together. Cowl uses short rows for shaping. Chain-2 at beginning of rows does not count as a stitch unless otherwise stated.

Stitch Guide

Row 5: Rep Row 3—62 sts. Row 6: Ch 2, 2 hb in first 2 sts, hb across, turn—64 sts. Row 7: Ch 2, hb across to last st, 2 hb in last st, turn—65 sts. Row 8: Rep Row 6—67 sts. Row 9: Rep Row 3—69 sts. Row 10: Rep Row 4—70 sts.

Size 50 (521⁄2)" only: Row 11: Rep Row 3—72 sts. Row 12: Rep Row 6—74 sts. Do not fasten off.

Sizes 56 (581⁄2)" only: Rows 11–14: Rep Rows 7 and 4 two times—74 sts at end of last row. Do not fasten off.

First cable section: Row 13 (13, 15, 15): (RS) Ch 1, sc in each next 7 sts, place marker (pm) in last st made, sc across, turn—74 sts. Row 14 (14, 16, 16) and all EVEN rows: (WS) Ch 1, sc across, turn. Row 15 (15, 17, 17): Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, FPtr around marked st 2 rows below, FPtr around next st, *sk 2 sc directly behind FPtr**, sc in next 2 sts on current row, sk next 2 sts 2 rows below, FPtr around next 2 sts 2 rows below; rep from * across to last 4 sts, ending last rep at **, sc in last 4 sts on current row, turn—74 sts. Row 17 (17, 19, 19): Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, FPtr around next 2 FPtr, *sk 2 sc directly behind FPtr**, sc in next 2 sts on current row, FPtr around next 2 FPtr; rep from ** across to last 6 sts, ending last rep at **, sc in last 6 sts on current row, turn—74 sts. Row 19 (19, 21, 21): Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, FPtr around first 2 FPtr 2 rows below, *sk 2 sc directly behind FPtr**, sc in next 2 sts on current row, FPtr around next 2 FPtr 2 rows below; rep from * across to last 4 sts, ending last rep at **, turn—74 sts.

Herringbone stitch (hb): Yo, insert hook into indicated st, yo and pull lp through st and 1 lp on hook, yo and draw through rem 2 lps on hook. Herringbone decrease (hb2tog): *Yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull lp through stitch and 1 lp on hook; rep from * once, yo and draw through 3 lps on hook. Herringbone st patt With smaller hook, ch 13 for gauge swatch. Row 1: Hb (see above) in 3rd ch from hook and in each rem ch across, turn—11 hb. Row 2: Ch 2 (see Notes), hb across, turn—11 sts. Rows 3–9: Rep Row 2. Moss st pattern With smaller hook, ch 13 for gauge swatch. Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next st, [hdc in next st, sl st in next st] across, turn—12 sts. 5¼ (5¼, 6¼, 6¼)" 2½" 7½ (8½, 8½, 9¾)" Rows 2–14: Ch 1, [hdc in next st, sl 13.5 (13.5, 16, 16) cm 6.5 cm 19 (21.5, 21.5, 25) cm st in next st] across, turn—12 sts.

Pattern Front

7" 18 cm

PONCHO

PLUS SIZE

3" 7.5 cm

1

Hook Sizes K/10.5 (6.5 mm), L/11 (8 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle; stitch markers (m); quilter’s pins; four 11⁄8" buttons; sewing thread and needle. Gauge: 11 sts and 9 rows = 4" in herringbone st patt with smaller hook. 11 sts and 14 rows = 4" in moss st patt with smaller hook. 8 sts and 9 rows = 21⁄2" in cable patt with smaller hook.

HERRINGBONE INC SECTION

Getting Started Finished Size 50 (521⁄2, 56, 581⁄2)" bust circumference, including buttoned edging. Sample shown measures 50", modeled with 15" ease. Yarn Plymouth Yarn Galway Chunky (100% wool; 123 yd [113 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #141 fuchsia, 11 (11, 12, 13) skeins.

20" 51 cm

Plymouth Yarn Galway Chunky www.plymouthyarn.com

With smaller hook, ch 56. Row 1: (RS) Hb (see Stitch Guide) in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across to last ch, 2 hb in last ch, turn—55 sts. Row 2: (WS) Ch 2 (see Notes), 2 hb in first 2 sts, hb across, turn—57 sts. Row 3: Ch 2, hb across to last 2 sts, 2 hb in last 2 sts, turn—59 sts. Row 4: Ch 2, 2 hb in first st, hb across—60 sts.

front & back

23 (24, 26, 27¼)" 58.5 (61, 66, 69) cm Crochetscene

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Hi, Desert

Reduced cable patt, shown for size 50”

Key < 23

= single crochet (sc)

20 > < 21

= FPtr

18 > < 19

= patt rep

16 > < 17 14 > < 13

Row 21 (21, 23, 23): Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, FPtr around first 2 FPtr 2 rows below, *sk 2 sc directly behind FPtr**, sc in next 2 sts on current row, FPtr around next 2 FPtr 2 rows below; rep from * across to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts on current row, turn—74 sts.

Center moss st section: Size 50" only: Row 22: (WS) Work Row 2 of moss st patt, turn—74 sts. Row 23: (RS) Work Row 2 of moss st patt across to last 6 sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—68 sts.

Size 521⁄2 (56)" only: Rows 22–24 (24–26): Work Row 2 of moss st patt—74 sts. Row 25 (27): (RS) Work Row 2 of moss st patt across to last 6 sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—68 sts.

Size 581⁄2" only: Rows 24–28: Work Row 2 of moss st patt. Row 29: (RS) Work Row 2 of moss st patt across to last 6 sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—68 sts.

All sizes: Row 24 (26, 28, 30): Work Row 2 of moss st patt—68 sts. Row 25 (27, 29, 31): (RS) Work Row 2 of moss st patt across to last st, turn, leaving rem st unworked—67 sts. Rows 26–27 (28–29, 30–31, 32–33): Rep Rows 24–25 (26–27, 28–29, 30–31)—66 sts. Rows 28–43 (30–45, 32–47, 34–49): Rep Row 24 (26, 28, 30)—66 sts. Row 44 (46, 48, 50): Ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, [hdc in next st, sl st in next st] across, turn—67 sts. Row 45 (47, 49, 51): Work Row 2 of moss st patt across to last st, hdc in last st, turn—67 sts. Row 46 (48, 50, 52): Ch 2, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next st [hdc in next st, sl st in next st] across, turn—68 sts. Row 47 (49, 51, 53): Work Row 2 of moss st patt—68 sts.

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Row 48 (50, 52, 54): (WS) Ch 9, hdc in the 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch [hdc in next ch/st, sl st in next ch/st] across, turn—74 sts. Do not fasten off.

Sizes 521⁄2 (56, 581⁄2)" only: Rows 51–52 (53–54, 55–58): Work Row 2 of moss st patt—74 sts.

2nd cable section: Rows 49–57 (53–61, 55–63, 59–67): Rep Rows 13–21 (13–21, 15–23, 15–23) of first cable section. Do not fasten off at end of last row.

Herringbone dec section: Sizes 50 (521⁄2)" only: Row 58 (62): Ch 2, hb2tog (see Stitch Guide) 2 times, hb across, turn—72 sts. Row 59 (63): Ch 2, hb across to last 4 sts, hb2tog 2 times, turn—70 sts.

Sizes 56 (581⁄2)" only: Row 64 (68): Ch 2, hb2tog, hb across, turn—73 sts. Row 65 (69): Ch 2, hb across to last 2 sts, hb2tog, turn—72 sts. Row 66 (70): Rep Row 64 (68)—71 sts. Row 67 (71): Rep Row 65 (69)—70 sts.

All sizes: Row 60 (64, 68, 72): Ch 2, hb2tog, hb across, turn—69 sts. Row 61 (65, 69, 73): Ch 2, hb across to last 4 sts, hb2tog 2 times, turn—67 sts. Row 62 (66, 70, 74): Ch 2, hb2tog 2 times, hb across, turn—65 sts. Row 63 (67, 71, 75): Ch 2, hb across to last 2 sts, hb2tog—64 sts. Row 64 (68, 72, 76): Rep Row 62 (66, 70, 74)—62 sts. Row 65 (69, 73, 77): Rep Row 61 (65, 69, 73)—60 sts. Rows 66–69 (70–73, 74–77, 78–81): Rep Rows 60 (64, 68, 72)–63 (67, 71, 75)—54 sts at end of last rnd. Fasten off.

Back Rows 1–22 (1–22, 1–24, 1–24): Rep Rows 1–22 (1–22, 1–24, 1–24) of front. Rows 23–48 (23–52, 25–54, 25–58): Work Row 2 of moss st patt. Rows 49–69 (53–73, 55–77, 59–81): Rep Rows 49–69 (53–73, 55–77, 59–81) of front. Fasten off.

Assembly Block front and back. With WS facing, whipstitch front and back tog at shoulder.


First side ribbing Foundation row: With smaller hook and RS facing, sl st in left bottom corner of front, ch 5. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 4 chs, sl st in same st as poncho edge join, sl st in next st on poncho edge, turn. Row 2: Sk both sl sts, sc blo across, turn—4 sc. Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo across, sl st in next 2 sts on poncho edge, turn—4 sc. Rows 4–14: Rep Rows 2–3 six times, ending last rep with Row 2. Row 15: Ch 1, sc blo in next 2 sc, ch 1, sk next st (buttonhole), sc blo in next st, sl st in next 2 sts on poncho edge, turn—3 sts, 1 ch-1 sp. Rows 16–30: Rep Rows 2–3 eight times, ending last rep with Row 2. Row 31: Rep Row 15. Rep Rows 2–3 to shoulder, ending last rep with Row 2. Next row: Ch 1, sc blo across, 2 sl sts in next st on poncho edge (seam), sl st in next st on poncho edge, turn. Next row: Ch 1, sk all sl sts, sc blo across, turn. Rep Rows 2–3 to end of back, ending last rep with Row 2. Fasten off at end of last row.

Row 9: Ch 1, sc blo across next 12 sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked. Row 10: Ch 1, sc blo across, turn. Row 11: Ch 1, sc blo across next 12 sts, sc blo across unworked sts 2 rows below, turn—18 sts. Rows 12–18: Ch 1, sc blo across. Next rows: Rep Rows 9–18 six times, ending last rep with Row 15. Last row (joining): Ch 1, with first and last rows held tog and last row in front, working through blo of last row and rem lps on foundation ch, sl st tog. Fasten off.

FINISHING With last row facing RS, place cowl around neckline of poncho and whipstitch in place. Weave in ends. Block again if necessary. Using sewing thread and needle, sew buttons to side ribbing opposite buttonholes.

Front bottom ribbing

Set-up row: With RS facing, using smaller hook, sl st to join in rem lp of last ch of foundation ch of 2nd side ribbing, working across rem foundation chs, ends of rows and first side ribbing foundation chs, work 80 (84, 90, 94) sc across, turn. Rotate work 90 degrees. Work as for front bottom ribbing

COWL With larger hook, ch 19. Row 1: (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across, turn—18 sts. Rows 2–8: Ch 1, sc blo across, turn.

Pattern Panel 1

Foundation row: With smaller hook and WS facing, sl st in left bottom corner of front, ch 5. Work as for first side ribbing.

Back bottom ribbing

Shell (sh): 3 dc in next st or sp. Split double crochet two together (split dc2tog): Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, sk next st, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, yo, draw through all lps on hook. Beginning double crochet three together (beg dc3tog): Ch 2, yo, insert hook in next ch, yo, pull up a lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, yo, insert hook in next dc, yo, pull up a lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, yo, draw through all lps on hook. Fringe: Wrap yarn around 7" object 3 times. Cut yarn. Hold folded ends and slide yarn off object. Attach as indicated.

SHRUG

2nd side ribbing

Set-up row: With RS facing, using smaller hook, sl st to join in rem lp of last ch of foundation ch of first side ribbing, working across rem foundation chs, ends of rows and 2nd side ribbing foundation chs, work 80 (84, 90, 94) sc across, turn. Rotate work 90 degrees. Row 1: Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across, sl st in first 2 sc on set-up row, turn. Row 2: Sk sl sts, sc blo across, turn—4 sts. Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo across, sl st in next 2 sc on set-up row, turn—4 sts. Next rows: Rep Rows 2–3 across bottom edge, ending last rep with Row 2. Fasten off at end of last row.

Stitch Guide

SONORAN SHRUG Linda Skuja

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Debbie Bliss Rialto DK (distributed by Knitting Fever) debbieblissonline.com

Getting Started Finished Size 351⁄2 (391⁄4, 431⁄4, 471⁄4)" bust circumference. Sample shown measures 351⁄2", modeled with 21⁄2" ease. Yarn Debbie Bliss Rialto DK (distributed by Knitting Fever) (100% wool; 114 yd [105 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #23069 citrus, 9 (11, 13, 15) balls. Hook J/10 (6 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Tapestry needle; 7" cardboard square or picture frame. Gauge 5 sh and 9 rows = 5" in panel 1 patt. 13 sts and 7 rows = 31⁄2" in panel 2 patt.

Notes Panels are worked separately and then sewn together.

Ch 115 (127, 139, 151). Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped 3 ch count as first dc), *sk next 2 ch, sh (see Stitch Guide) in next ch; rep from * 35 (39, 43, 47) times, sk next 2 ch, dc in last ch, turn—36 (40, 44, 48) sh, 2 dc. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 2 dc in sp between first dc and next sh, *sk next sh, sh in sp bet skipped sh and next sh; rep from * across, sk last sh, sc in sp bet skipped sh and dc, dc in top of beg 3 sk chs, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, dc in first dc, *sk next sh, sh in sp bet skipped sh and next sh; rep from * to last sh, sk last sh, dc in last dc, turn—1 sh dec‘d, 3 dc. Row 4: Ch 3, *sk next sh, sh in sp bet skipped sh and next sh; rep from * across, sk last sh, sc in sp bet skipped sh and next dc, dc in last dc, turn. Rows 5–71 (75, 79, 83): Rep Rows 3–4, ending last rep with Row 3. Row 72 (76, 80, 84): Ch 3, sk next sh, dc in last dc, turn. Row 73 (77, 81, 85): Ch 3, dc in first dc, dc in last dc, turn. Row 74 (78, 82, 86): Ch 2 (counts as unfinished dc), dc2tog in next 2 dc. Fasten off.

Panel 2 Ch 179 (195, 211, 227). Row 1: Dc in 5th ch from hook (skipped 4 ch and first dc count as split dc2tog), *ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next ch; rep from * 84 (92, 100, 108) times, ch 1, sk next ch, split dc2tog (see Stitch Guide), turn—87 (95, 103, 111) sts, 86 (94, 102, 110) ch-1 sps. Row 2: Beg dc3tog (see Stitch Guide), *dc in next ch, dc in next dc; rep from * 82 (90, 98, 106) times, dc in next ch, dc3tog over last (dc, ch and dc), turn. Row 3: Ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next dc (counts as split dc2tog), *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc; rep from * across to last 4 sts, ch 1, sk next dc, split dc2tog, turn.

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Hi, Desert

Reduced panel 1 patt, shown for size 35½”

join join

ld fo

join

fo ld

join

fo ld

ld fo

35½ (39¼, 43¼, 47¼)" 90 (100, 110, 120) cm

Panel Assembly

74 > < 73 72 > < 71 70 > < 69 68 > < 67

35½ (39¼, 43¼, 47¼)" 90 (100, 110, 120) cm

Key

66 >

8 (8½ 9, 9½)" 20 (21.5, 23, 24) cm

= chain (ch)

< 65

16 (17, 18, 19)" 40 (43, 46, 48) cm

= single crochet (sc) 64 >

panel 2

= double crochet (dc)

< 63 panel 1

62 > < 61 60 > < 59 58 > < 57

Reduced panel 2 patt, shown for size 35½” 44 > < 43 42 > < 41 40 > < 39 38 > < 37

Row 4: Beg dc3tog, *dc in next ch, dc in next dc; rep from * across to 2nd to last ch, dc in next ch, dc3tog over last (dc, ch and dc), turn. Rows 5–42 (46, 50, 54): Rep Rows 3–4. Row 43 (47, 51, 55): Ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch, ch 1, sk next dc, split dc2tog. turn. Row 44 (48, 52, 56): Beg dc3tog, dc2tog in next 2 dc. Fasten off.

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FINISHING Block both parts to their true size, leave to dry. With WS of panels facing, whipstitch panels tog as shown in panel assembly. Fold assembled panels to WS as shown in shrug assembly diagram and whipstitch sides tog. Turn cardigan inside out and attach fringe (see Stitch Guide) around every other dc across Row 1 of panel 2. Block again if needed.


Getting Started

Pattern

Finished Size 54" wide and 54" long. Yarn Cascade Yarns 128 Superwash (100%

AFGHAN

superwash merino wool; 128 yd [117 m]/ 3½ oz [100 g]; ; #1982 harvest orange (MC), 7 skeins; #817 ecru (CC1), 4 skeins, #1910 summer sky heather (CC2) and #1980 aster (CC3), 2 skeins each. Hook Size K/101⁄2 (6.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle Gauge Strip = 43⁄4" wide.

Notes

SAHARA AFGHAN Deborah Bagley

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Cascade Yarns 128 Superwash www.cascadeyarns.com

When starting a new color, begin with slipknot on hook and always join with right side (RS) facing. Then work first stitch as normal. Each flower is crocheted separately but attached to previous flower to make a long strip. When joining strips together, on the strip closest to you (panel A), insert hook from right side to wrong side as normal. On strip farthest from you (panel B), insert hook from wrong side to right side.

Stitch Guide Picot: Ch 3, working in back ridge, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.

Strip

Strip (make 5 each CC2 and CC3) FLOWER 1 Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, [sc in ring, ch 9] 6 times, sl st in first sc to join—6 petals. Fasten off.

FLOWERS 2–13 Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, [sc in ring, ch 9] 5 times, sc in ring, ch 4, sl st in 5th chain of 3rd petal of prev flower, ch 4, sl st in first sc to join—6 petals. Fasten off.

Border Rnd 1: Working in back ridge lps, join CC1 with sl st in 5th ch of 4th petal of flower 13, ch 1, (sc, dc) in same ch, (dc, 2 sc, dc, tr) in 5th ch on next petal of same flower, *[(tr, dc, 2 sc, dc) in 5th ch on first petal of next flower, (dc, 2 sc, dc, tr) in 5th ch of next petal on same flower] across to end petal of last flower, ch 3, (tr, dc, 2 sc, dc, tr) in 5th ch of petal at end of row, ch 3; rep from * once beg in next petal on same flower, (tr, dc, sc) in same ch as first (sc, dc) made, sl st in first sc to join—272 sts, 4 corner ch-3 sps. Fasten off.

Beg strip join <3 <2

<1

KEY = chain (ch)

1>

1>

1> flowers 2–12

flower 1

= slip stitch (sl st)

flower 13

= single crochet (sc)

= half double crochet (hdc)

Reduced border patt

work 45 times

= double crochet (dc)

Strip join

strip joining

= treble crochet (tr)

= picot

= patt rep

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Hi, Desert

Rnd 2: Join MC with sl st in last st made, sc in same st as join, *sc in each st across to corner ch-3 sp, sc in next ch, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch, sc in next ch; rep from * 3 times, sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc to join—288 sc, 4 corner ch-3 sps. Rnd 3: Ch 1, *hdc in each sc across to corner ch-3 sp, (hdc, ch 3, hdc) in corner ch-3 sp; rep from * 3 times, hdc in each sc around, sl st in first hdc to join—296 hdc, 4 corner ch-3 sps. Fasten off.

are referred to by their unstretched foot measurement in this pattern. Slippers are constructed from the toe upward. Do not join rounds unless otherwise stated. Use stitch marker to indicate beginning of rounds. Move marker up as work progresses. Half double crochet are worked in the back bar unless otherwise stated.

Stitch Guide

Join Strips Row 1: Referring to diagram, join MC with sl st in indicated corner ch-3 sp of panel A (CC2 flowers strip), ch 2, sl st in first corner ch-3 of panel B (CC3 flowers strip), *ch 3, sk next 3 hdc of panel A, sl st in next st, ch 3, sk next 3 sts of panel B, sl st in next st; rep from * across, ending last rep with with sk 4 hdc, sl st in corner ch-3 of panel A, ch 2, sl st in corner ch-3 sp of panel B. Fasten off. Rep to join rem strips, alternating CC2 and CC3.

PATAGONIA SLIPPER SOCKS Brenda K. B. Anderson

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Border Join MC with sl st in top right corner ch-3 sp. Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2, picot (see Stitch Guide), ch 2, sk next 3 hdc, [sc in next hdc, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sk next 2 hdc] 3 times, sc in corner ch-3 sp, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sk strip joining, sc in corner ch-3 sp on next strip; rep from * 8 times, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sk next 3 hdc, [sc in next hdc, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sk next 2 hdc] 3 times, (sc, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sc) in afghan corner ch-3 sp, [ch 2, picot, ch 2, sk next 2 hdc, sc in next hdc] 45 times, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sk next hdc**, (sc, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sc) in afghan corner ch-3 sp; rep from * one time, ending last rep at **, sc in afghan corner ch-3 sp, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Dale Garn Hegre (distributed by Mango Moon) dalegarnnorthamerica.com

Pattern SLIPPER Toe Dale Garn Monjita (distributed by Mango Moon) dalegarnnorthamerica.com

Getting Started Finished Size 8 (81⁄4, 9, 91⁄2)" sole length and 83⁄4 (9, 91⁄2, 10)" leg circumference and 9" tall. Yarn Dale Garn Hegre (distributed by Mango Moon) (100% wool; 82 yd [75 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #3841 med sheep heather (MC), 4 (4, 5, 5) balls. Dale Garn Monjita (distributed by Mango Moon) (91% alpaca, 7.5% wool, 1.5% nylon; 98 yd [90 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #1785 brown, 1 ball (CC). Hook Sizes H/8 (5 mm), N/15 (10 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Stitch markers (m); quilter’s pins; yarn needle; premade slipper soles (optional—available from somerset designs at www.etsy.com/listing/ 201649628/suede-slipper-soles-withfleece-lining?ref=shop_home_feat_2). Gauge 9 esc and 7 rnds = 23⁄4" with MC and smaller hook. Cable = 2" with MC and smaller hook.

Notes Your sock will fit best if it needs to stretch 1⁄2"–11⁄4" to fit your foot. Sizes

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Front post treble crochet front crossstitch (FPtr front cross-st): Sk next 3 sts, FPtr around next 3 sts, working in front of last 3 FPtr just made, FPtr around 3 skipped sts. Front post treble crochet back crossstitch (FPtr back cross-st): Sk next 3 sts, FPtr around next 3 sts, working behind last 3 FPtr just made, FPtr around 3 skipped sts. Cable patt Rnd 1: FPdc around next 3 sts, FPtr front cross-st (see above). Rnd 2: FPdc around next 9 sts. Rnd 3: FPtr back cross st (see above), FPdc around next 3 sts. Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 2. Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.

With smaller hook and MC, ch 6 (6, 8, 8). Rnd 1: Working in back ridge lps, 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, place marker (pm) in first hdc made (see Notes), hdc in next 3 (3, 5, 5) chs, 2 hdc in next ch, rotate to work in opposite side of foundation ch, 2 hdc in next ch, hdc in next 3 (3, 5, 5) chs, 2 hdc in the last ch, do not join (see Notes)—14 (14, 18, 18) hdc. Rnd 2: Working in back bar only (see Notes), [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 (5, 7, 7) sts, 2 hdc in next st 2 times—18 (18, 22, 22) sts.

Sizes 8 (9)" only: Rnd 3: Hdc in next 9 (11) sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7 (9) sts, 2 hdc in next st—20 (24) sts.

Sizes 81⁄4 (91⁄2)" only: Rnd 3: [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7 (9) sts, 2 hdc in next st] 2 times—22 (26) sts.

All sizes: Rnd 4: Hdc in next st (does not count as a st), [2 hdc in next st, move m to first of last 2 hdc made, hdc in next 7 (9, 9, 11) sts, 2 hdc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 9 (9, 11, 11) sts, 2 hdc in next st—24 (26, 28, 30) sts.

Sizes 9 (91⁄2)" only: Rnd 5: Hdc in next st (does not count as a st), hdc in next st (pm), hdc around—28 (30) sts. Do not fasten off.

Foot Rnd 1: Working in back bar for this rnd only, esc in next 1 (2, 2, 3) st(s), dc in next 9


Cable patt

Stitch Key <4

<2

rep for patt

<3

= double crochet (dc)

= FPdc

<1 = FPtr

sts, esc in next 14 (15, 17, 18) sts—24 (26, 28, 30) sts. Rnd 2: Esc in next 1 (2, 2, 3) st(s), work Row 1 of cable patt, esc in next 14 (15, 17, 18) sts. Note: If shorter/longer foot is desired, work fewer/more rounds. Rnds 3–6 (7, 9, 10): Esc in next 1 (2, 2, 3) st(s), work next row of cable patt, esc in next 14 (15, 17, 18) sts. Rnd 7 (8, 10, 11): 2 esc in next st, esc in next 0 (1, 1, 2) st(s), work next row of cable patt, esc in next 0 (1, 1, 2) st(s), 2 esc in next st, esc in next 13 (13, 15, 15) sts—26 (28, 30, 32) sts. Rnd 8 (9, 11, 12): Esc in next 2 (3, 3, 4) sts, work next row of cable patt, esc in next 15 (16, 18, 19) sts—26 (28, 30, 32) sts. Rnd 9 (10, 12, 13): Esc in next 2 (3, 3, 4) sts, work next row of cable patt, esc in next 2 (3, 3, 4) sts, 2 esc in next st, esc in next 11 (11, 13, 13) sts, 2 esc in last st—28 (30, 32, 34) sts. Rnd 10 (11, 13, 14): Esc in next 2 (3, 3, 4) sts, work next row of cable patt, esc in next 17 (17, 20, 21) sts—28 (30, 32, 34) sts. Rnd 11 (12, 14, 15): 2 esc in next st, esc in next 1 (2, 2, 3) st(s), work next row of cable patt, esc in next 1 (2, 2, 3) st(s), 2 esc in next st, esc in next 15 (15, 17, 17) sts—30 (32, 34, 36) sts. Rnd 12 (13, 15, 16): Esc in next 3 (4, 4, 5) sts, work next row of cable patt, esc in next 18 (19, 21, 22) sts—30 (32, 34, 36) sts. Do not fasten off.

Leg Rnd 13 (14, 16, 17): Esc in next 3 (4, 4, 5) sts, work next row of cable patt, esc in next 4 (5, 5, 6) sts, ch 13 (13, 15, 15), sk next 13 (13, 15, 15) sts (heel opening), esc in next st—30 (32, 34, 36) sts. Rnd 14 (15, 17, 18): Esc in next 3 (4, 4, 5) sts, work next row of cable patt, esc in next 4 (5, 5, 6) sts, esc in next 2 (2, 3, 3) chs, dc in next 9 chs, esc in next 2 (2, 3, 3) chs, esc in last st—30 (32, 34, 36) sts. Note: Beg with next row, next row of cable patt will be worked on both front and back of slipper. If shorter/longer leg is desired, work fewer/more rnds.

Rnds 15–26 (16–27, 18–29, 19–30): Esc in next 3 (4, 4, 5) sts, work next row of cable patt, esc in next 7 (7, 9, 9) sts, work same row of cable patt, esc in next 2 (3, 3, 4) sts—30 (32, 34, 36) sts. Rnds 27–28 (28–29, 30–31, 31–32): Esc around—30 (32, 34, 36) sts. Rnd 29 (30, 32, 33): [Esc in next st, ch 1, sk next st] around—30 (32, 34, 36) sts. Rnds 30–31 (31–32, 33–34, 34–35): Esc around—30 (32, 34, 36) sts. Fasten off at end of last row.

Cuff Sizes 8 (91⁄2)" only Rnd 1: With larger hook, join CC with sl st in any st on last rnd of leg, ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, sk next st] around—20 (24) sts.

Sizes 81⁄4 (9)" only With larger hook, join CC with sl st in any st on last rnd of leg, ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, sk st] around to last 2 (1) st(s), sc in last 2 (1) st(s)—22 (23) sts.

All sizes: Note: Yarn texture may make st count difficult to maintain. If you get off, add/ subtract one st on the next rnd to even things out. Rnds 2–6: Sc around. Fasten off at end of last rnd.

Heel With toe pointing away from you, with smaller hook, join MC with sl st in last worked st before heel opening. Rnd 1: Ch 1, hdc in same st as join (pm), working in rem lps of ch, hdc in next 13 (13, 15, 15) chs across heel opening, 2 hdc in next st, rotate work 180 degrees, hdc in next 13 (13, 15, 15) sts across rem side of heel opening, hdc in same st as join, do not join—30 (30, 34, 34) sts. Rnds 2–3: Hdc around—30 (30, 34, 34) sts. Rnd 4: [Hdc2tog, hdc in next 11 (11, 13, 13) sts, hdc2tog] 2 times–26 (26, 30, 30) sts. Rnd 5: [Hdc2tog, hdc in next 9 (9, 11, 11) sts, hdc2tog] 2 times—22 (22, 26, 26) sts. Rnd 6: [Hdc2tog, hdc in next 7 (7, 9, 9) sts, hdc2tog] 2 times—18 (18, 22, 22) sts. Fasten off, leaving long tail.

Pom-pom ties (make 2) With smaller hook and MC, make a chain that measures 32". Fasten off leaving long tail.

Pom-pom (make 4) Rnd 1: With larger hook and CC, make an adjustable ring, work 6 sc in ring, pull on tail to close ring—6 sts. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around—12 sts. Rnd 3: Sc2tog around. Fasten off.

Assemble pom-pom Use a scrap of CC yarn to stuff pom-pom. Using yarn needle, thread yarn tail through each of the rem 6 sts and pull tight to close top of pom-pom.

FINISHING Using tail from heel and yarn needle, whipstitch last rnd tog through back bars only. Weave in all yarn ends except pompom ties. Block. Thread pom-pom ties through Rnd 29 (30, 32, 33) of leg. Fold cuff over top of leg and thread pom-pom ties through cuff. Using yarn needle and tails from pom-pom ties, sew 1 pom-pom to each end of each tie. (Optional) Pin bottom of slipper to slipper sole. Using MC and yarn needle, sew slipper sole to bottom of slipper. Crochetscene

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Hi, Desert

Notions Tapestry needle; 10 mm wooden beads, 6 (optional). Gauge 12 sts = 13⁄4"; 11 rows = 3".

Notes To change color, work last yarn over of last stitch in next color. All color changes should be worked on the wrong side (WS) of the headband. Beginning with Round 2, change colors as indicated on stitch diagram, carrying main color (MC) and A on WS throughout. Carry B only for small diamond sections on Rows 4–6, then fasten off.

Pattern HEADBAND

YUMA HEADBAND Jennifer Pionk

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Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Fingering www.brownsheep.com

Getting Started Finished Size 21⁄4" wide and 20 (211⁄4, 23)" long. Yarn Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Fingering (100% wool; (310 yd [283 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #N91F aran (MC), #701F stone (A), #135F hurricane seas (B), 1 ball each. Hook Size C/2 (2.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

With MC, ch 14. Row 1: (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn—13 sc. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in same st, sk next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, sk next 2 sts, changing to color A, 3 dc in next st, sk next 2 sts, changing to MC, 3 dc in next st, sk next 2 sts, 2 dc in last st, turn—13 dc. Row 3: Ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in next sp, sk next 3 dc, changing to color A, [3 dc in next sp, sk next 3 dc] twice, changing to MC, 3 dc in last sp, dc in last dc, turn—14 dc. Row 4: Sl st in first sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, sk next 3 dc, changing to color A, 3 dc in next sp, sk next 3 dc, changing to color B, 3 dc in next sp, sk next 3 dc, changing to color A, 3 dc in next sp, sk next 3 dc, changing to MC, 2 dc in last sp, turn—13 dc. Row 5: Ch 3, sk next dc, changing to color A, 3 dc in next sp, sk next 3 dc, changing to color B, [3 dc in next sp, sk next 3 dc]

Reduced headband patt 75 (81, 87) > < 74 (80, 86)

Stitch Key

7>

= chain (ch)

= single crochet (sc)

5>

= double crochet (dc)

= color MC

<4 3>

= color A

<2

= color B

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rep for patt

<6

= slip stitch (sl st)

twice, changing to color A, 3 dc in next sp, sk next 3 dc, changing to MC, dc in last dc, turn—14 dc. Row 6: Rep Row 4. Row 7: Rep Row 3. Rows 8–73 (79, 85): Rep Rows 2–7 eleven (twelve, thirteen) times. Row 74 (80, 86): Rep Row 2. Row 75 (81, 87): Ch 1, sc across in each dc across, do not turn or fasten off—13 sc.

Edging & Gusset Rnd 1: (RS) With RS facing, *turn to work in ends of rows, ch 1, sc in end of last row, [ch 1, 2 sc in end of next row] across to last row, ch 1, sc in end of first row*, turn to work in rem lps of beg ch, sc in first lp, [ch 3, sk next 2 lps, sl st in next lp] 3 times, ch 3, sk next 2 lps, sc in last lp; rep bet * one time, turn to work across last row, sc in first sc, [ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sl st in next sc] 3 times, ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in last sc, sl st in first sc to join, fasten off.

Tie With 2 strands of A held tog, make a ch about 36" long, fasten off. Trim ends to 1⁄2".

FINISHING Weave in ends. With RS facing and using photo as a guide, lace tie through ch-sps at short end of headband. (Optional) Thread 3 wooden beads on each end of the tie. Knot the end of the tie to secure the beads.


MOJAVE GAUNTLETS Lori Steinberg

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4 Shibui Knits Cima www.shibuiknits.com

Getting Started Finished Size Wrist circumference 7 (8, 9)"; Forearm circumference 10 (11, 12)". About 151⁄2 (161⁄2, 171⁄2)" in length. Yarn Shibui Knits Cima (70% superbaby alpaca, 30% fine merino wool; 328 yd [300 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #13 caffeine (A), 1 (1, 2) hank(s); #2026 brass (B), #115 brick (C), #2039 imperial (D), 1 hank each. Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Stitch marker (m); tapestry needle. Gauge 13 sts and 7 rnds = 2" in two-stitch patt. 8 rnds = 3" in multi-stitch patt.

Notes Gauntlets are worked from forearm up to wrist in joined rounds. Place marker (pm) to indicate beg of round, moving marker (m) up as each round is worked. At wrist, gauntlets will be worked in rows to create thumbhole. After thumbhole is completed, gauntlets will be worked in joined rounds to end. To change color, work last yarn over of stitch with new color.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), dc in each sc around, sl st in first dc to join. Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 3. Rnd 6: Ch 4 (counts as first tr throughout), tr in each sc around, sl st in first tr to join. Rnd 7: Rep Rnd 3. Rnd 8: Ch 5 (counts as first dtr throughout), dtr in each sc around, sl st in first dtr to join. Rnd 9: Rep Rnd 3. Rep Rnds 2–9 for patt. Two-row patt (multiple of 5) Ch 20 for gauge swatch, sl st in first ch to form ring, pm. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same ch as joining, sc in each ch around, sl st in first sc to join—20 sc. Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, sl st in first dc to join. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc around, sl st in first dc to join. Rep Rnds 2–3 for patt.

Pattern GAUNTLET (MAKE 2) With A, ch 50 (55, 60), being careful not to twist ch, sl st in first ch to form ring, pm. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same ch as joining, sc in each ch around, sl st in first sc to join—50 (55, 60) sc. Rnds 2–8: Work Rnds 2–8 of multi-stitch patt. Rnd 9 (dec): Rep Rnd 1, dec 5 sts evenly around, sl st in first sc to join—45 (50, 55) sc rem. Rnds 10–17: Rep Rnds 2–9—40 (45, 50) sc rem at end of last rnd. Rnd 18: With B, rep Rnd 2. Rnd 19: With A, rep Rnd 1. Rnd 20: With C, rep Rnd 4. Rnd 21: With A, rep Rnd 1. Rnd 22: With B, rep Rnd 6.

Rnd 23: With A, rep Rnd 1. Rnd 24: With D, rep Rnd 8.

Wrist Rnd 1 (dec): (RS) With A, rep Rnd 9—35 (40, 45) sc rem. Work Rnds 2–3 of two-stitch patt until piece measures 10 (11, 12)", ending by working Rnd 2. Fasten off.

Divide for thumbhole With WS facing, join A with sl st in 2nd st. Row 1: (WS) Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, sc in next 32 (37, 42) sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—33 (38, 43) sc. Row 2: With B, ch 2, hdc across, turn. Row 3: With A, ch 1, sc across, turn. Row 4: With C, ch 3, dc across, turn. Row 5: With A, ch 1, sc across, turn. Row 6: With B, ch 4, tr across, turn. Row 7: With A, ch 1, sc across, turn. Rnd 8 (join): With D, ch 5, dtr across, ch 2, sl st in first dtr to join, fasten off.

Upper hand With RS facing, join A with sl st in same st as joining. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, sc in each dtr around, sl st in first dtr to join. Rep Rnds 2–3 of two-stitch patt 4 times or to desired length, fasten off.

Thumbhole edging With RS facing, join B in last st of last rnd before thumbhole. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, working in ends of thumbhole rows, work 33 sc evenly spaced around thumbhole, sl st in first sc to join—34 sc. Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in each sc around, sl st in first dc to join. Rnd 3 (dec): Ch 1, sc in each dc around, working sc2tog 10 times evenly spaced around—24 sc rem. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block as desired.

Stitch Guide Multi-stitch patt (multiple of 5) Ch 20 for gauge swatch, sl st in first ch to form ring, pm. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1 (counts as first sc, throughout), sc in same ch as joining, sc around in each ch around, sl st in first sc to join—20 sc. Rnd 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc throughout), hdc in each sc around, sl st in first hdc to join.

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Explore these mod looks

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Jailhouse Rock Pullover by Melissa Leapman Horizontal stripes never looked so good! This simple pullover has no shaping, making it a great beginner sweaterâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and it has the right amount of ease to hug your shape without going all boxy. Yarn HiKoo Simpliworsted (distributed by Skacel). Page 44.

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Nightshade Skirt by Doris Chan Round motifs big and small wheel around this long, flared skirt in a soft geometry. Crocheted in a sportweight blend of cotton and rayon, this skirt has exceptional noncling drape and will wear beautifully. Yarn DesigningVashti Lotus. Page 47. < Mod Squad Bag by Brett Bara Good old-fashioned granny squares get a fresh, modern spin with a bold, graphic color palette and leather straps. Yarn Patons Shetland Chunky. Page 46.

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Film Noir Shawl by Keilah Fok Inspired by the style of Audrey Hepburn, this extravagant shawl features subtle texture and sophisticated multidirectional stripes that add easy elegance to your wardrobe. Yarn Lornaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Laces Shepherd Sock. Page 54. Hi-Fi Hat > by Vickie Howell This quick-to-crochet chunky hat is topped with an exuberant pom-pom for instant impact. Yarn Cascade Yarns Magnum. Page 54.

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Black & White

Change to A.

Shape left neck:

Cont with A only, work in hdc until piece measures 241⁄2 (25, 25, 251⁄2, 26)" from beg, ending with a WS row.

Row 1: (RS) Ch 2, hdc in next 18 (21, 24, 27, 30) sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—19 (22, 25, 28, 31) sts. Row 2: Sl st in first 4 sts, ch 2, hdc across, turn—16 (19, 22, 25, 28) sts rem. Row 3: Ch 2, hdc across to last 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn—15 (18, 21, 24, 27) sts rem. Row 4: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc across, turn—14 (17, 20, 23, 26) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 26 (261⁄2, 261⁄2, 27, 271⁄2)" from beg. Fasten off.

Shape right neck: Row 1: (RS) Ch 2, hdc in next 14 (17, 20, 23, 26) sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—15 (18, 21, 24, 27) sts. Row 2: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc across, turn—14 (17, 20, 23, 26) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 26 (261⁄2, 261⁄2, 27, 271⁄2)" from beg. Fasten off.

Shape left neck:

JAILHOUSE ROCK PULLOVER Melissa Leapman

1

2

3

4

Row 1: With RS facing, sk next 18 sts after last st of right neck, join A with sl st in next st, ch 2, hdc across, turn—15 (18, 21, 24, 27) sts. Row 2: Ch 2, hdc across to last st, turn, leaving rem st unworked—14 (17, 20, 23, 26) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 26 (261⁄2, 261⁄2, 27, 271⁄2)" from beg. Fasten off.

FRONT Work same as for back until piece measures 23 (231⁄2, 231⁄2, 24, 241⁄2)" from beg, ending with WS row.

Hikoo Simpliworsted (distributed by Skacel) www.skacelknitting.com

Shape right neck: Row 1: With RS facing, sk next 10 sts after last st of left neck, join A with sl st in next st, ch 2, hdc across, turn—19 (22, 25, 28, 31) sts. Row 2: Ch 2, hdc across to last 3 sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—16 (19, 22, 25, 28) sts rem. Row 3: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc across, turn—15 (18, 21, 24, 27) sts rem. Row 4: Ch 2, hdc across to last 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn—14 (17, 20, 23, 26) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 26 (261⁄2, 261⁄2, 27, 271⁄2)" from beg. Fasten off.

Getting Started Finished Size 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 32", modeled with 2" ease. Yarn Hikoo Simpliworsted (distributed by Skacel) (55% merino superwash, 28% acrylic, 17% nylon; 140 yd [128 m]/3½ oz [100 m]; ): #001 white (A), 5 (6, 7, 7, 8) hanks; #002 black (B), 4 (5, 6, 6, 7) hanks. Hook Sizes J/10 (6 mm) and K/101⁄2 (6.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge 12 sts and 91⁄2 rows = 4" in hdc with larger hook.

Notes

Pattern With larger hook and A, ch 49 (55, 61, 67, 73). Row 1: (RS) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch count as first hdc), hdc across, turn—48 (54, 60, 66, 72) sts. Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout), hdc across, hdc in top of beg ch-2, turn. Row 3: Ch 2, hdc across, hdc in top of tch, turn.

1½" 3.8 cm

front & back

Change to B (see Notes). Rows 4–6: Rep Row 3. Rows 7–54: Rep Row 3, working [with A, 3 rows, with B, 3 rows] 8 times. 44 Crochetscene

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16 (18, 20, 22, 24)" 40.5 (45.5, 51, 56, 61) cm

20 (19½, 18½, 17½, 17)" 51 (49.5, 47, 44.5, 43) cm

BACK

4¾ (5¾, 6¾, 7¾, 8¾)" 12 (14.5, 17, 19.5, 22) cm 3" 23 (23½, 23½, 24, 24½)" 7.5 cm 58.5 (59.5, 59.5, 61, 62) cm

To change color, work last yarn over of last stitch in next color. Sweater is worked in pieces and seamed. Fasten off old color at end of each stripe.

6" 15 cm

16 (16¾, 18, 18¾, 20)" 40.5 (42.5, 45.5, 47.5, 51) cm

sleeve

9¼ (9¼, 10, 10, 10¾)" 23.5 (23.5, 25.5, 25.5, 27.5) cm


www.lornaslaces.net

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Black & White

SLEEVES

acrylic, 25% wool; 148 yd [136 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #78008 black (MC) 4 skeins, #78040 Aran (CC), 1 skein. Hook Sizes H/8 (5 mm), K/10.5 (6.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge. Notions Tapestry needle; 11⁄4" leather strips, 2 (https://www.tandyleather.com/ en/product/lightweight-cowhide-leatherstrips-50-1-3-m); leather punch; rotary cutter. Gauge Granny square = 3" square with larger hook. 13 sts and 16 rows = 4" with smaller hook.

With larger hook and A, ch 29 (29, 31, 31, 33). Row 1: (RS) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch count as first hdc), hdc across, turn—28 (28, 30, 30, 32) sts. Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc throughout), hdc across, hdc in top of beg ch-2, turn. Row 3 (inc): Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc across to last st, 2 hdc in top of tch, turn—2 sts inc'd.

Change to B. *With B, work 3 hdc rows, with A, work 3 hdc rows; rep from * until sleeve measures 20 (191⁄2, 181⁄2, 171⁄2, 17)" from beg. At the same time, rep Inc row every other row 0 (1, 3, 7, 10) time(s), every 4th row 8 (9, 8, 5, 3) times, then every 6th row 1 (0, 0, 0, 0) time(s)—48 (50, 50, 54, 56) sts. Fasten off.

FINISHING Sew shoulder seams. Neckline edging: With RS facing and smaller hook, join A with sl st in inside left shoulder seam, ch 1, sc around neckline, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. Match up center of sleeve with shoulder seam. Sew sleeves to body. Sew sleeve seams and side seams. Weave in ends.

Notes

MOD SQUAD BAG Brett Bara

1

2

3

Pattern

4

BAG Exterior GRANNY SQUARE (MAKE 17 WITH MC AND 10 WITH CC) Patons Shetland Chunky www.yarnspirations.com/patons

Getting Started Finished Size About 13" wide and 111⁄2" tall, including edging and excluding strap. Yarn Patons Shetland Chunky (75%

Top Edge A 17" assembled 43 cm

Assembly adds about 1⁄4"–1⁄2" between squares. For best results, cut leather with rotary cutter, not scissors.

Foundation rnd: With larger hook and yarn, ch 4, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 2: Sl st in next 2 dc and in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same ch-2

15½" 39.5 cm

Key = MC motif = CC motif

= fold

9½" 24 cm

= base join = side join

4" 10 cm

24" assembled 61 cm

9½" 24 cm

9¾" assembled 25 cm 46 Crochetscene

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9½" 24 cm


sp, [ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp] around, ch 1, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Motif assembly With RS facing and CC, whipstitch motifs tog through inside lps, making sure to align ch at corner, work as est across to next corner and next ch. Take care to match the corners where 4 motifs meet, making an extra whipstitch in corners so seam is tight, without a sp. After assembling, lay piece flat and set aside. Do not sew side and bottom seams of bag exterior until after crocheting the lining.

Lining Note: Lining should be about 1⁄4" to ½" smaller than exterior on all sides. With smaller hook and MC, ch 51. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across, turn—50 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc across. Work even until lining measures 91⁄2" from beg. Fasten off. Next row: Sk first 10 sts, sl st to join in next st, ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc across next 29 sts, leaving rem sts unworked, turn. Work even until lining measures 231⁄2" from beg.

NIGHTSHADE SKIRT Doris Chan

1

2

3

4

PLUS SIZE

DesigningVashti Lotus www.shop.designingvashti.com

Bag assembly

Getting Started

Fold exterior so WS of Motifs are facing. Whipstitch sides tog as shown in diagram.

Finished Size 25 (30, 35, 40, 45)" waist circumference; 31 (31, 33, 33, 35)" long. Sample shown measures 30", modeled with 4" ease. Yarn DesigningVashti Lotus (52% cotton, 48% rayon; 256 yd [235 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #0004 black gleam, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) balls. Hook Size 7 (4.5 mm) hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle; removable markers; 1" wide, non-roll waistband elastic, 27 (32, 37, 42, 47)"; safety pin; sewing needle and thread for elastic. Gauge 17 fsc or sc = 4", unstretched; trim wheel (Rnds 1–5) = 53⁄4" diameter; large wheel = 19 (19, 20, 20, 22)" diameter before joining; body filler = 6 (6, 6, 8, 8)" diameter.

Exterior border Sl st to join in any ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc around —80 sts. Fold lining so WS is facing out. Whipstitch sides tog as shown in diagram.

Lining border Sl st to join in any st, ch 3, dc around—80 sts.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Turn exterior and lining RS out and place lining inside exterior. Working around top edge, whipstitch lining and exterior tog.

Handles Trim each leather strap to 27". On the wrong side of each leather strap, mark each end of each strap with 5 dots that look like the “five” side on dice. Using the leather punch, punch a hole on each of the 5 dots. Using MC and a tapestry needle, stitch from each corner dot to center dot. Weave in ends.

Notes The skirt is worked from the top down and motifs are joined as you go. To choose size, crochet foundation rnd closest to your waist measurement and try pulling it on; if you can get in on, then that’s your size. Use trim wheel Rnds 1–5 for gauge swatch. Leave a longer tail when fastening off to later ravel Rnd 5 and join swatch motif to skirt.

Stitch Guide Fan: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in indicated st or sp; work fan in ch-2 sp of fan. V-stitch (V-st): (Dc, ch 2, dc) in indicated st or sp; work V-st in ch-2 sp of V-st.

V-stitch join (V-st join): Dc in next st or sp of current motif, ch 1, insert hook from front to back in ch-2 sp of V-st of indicated motif, ch 1, dc in same sp of current motif. Spike double treble crochet (spike dtr): Yo 3 times, insert hook under indicated chsp, including ch-sp one rnd below, yo and pull up a lp, encasing both ch-sps, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 4 times. Spike treble crochet (spike tr): Yo 2 times, insert hook under indicated ch-sp, including ch-sp one rnd below, yo and pull up a lp, encasing both ch-sps, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times. Spike double crochet (spike dc): Yo, insert hook under indicated ch-sp, including ch-sp one rnd below, yo and pull up a lp, encasing both ch-sps, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times. Trim Wheel Ch 8, sl st in first ch to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 19 dc in ring, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-3 to join—20 dc. Rnd 2: Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3), sk first 2 dc, [V-st (see above) in next dc, ch 3, sk next dc] 9 times, dc in same st as beg ch-6, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-6 to join—10 V-sts. Rnd 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, [V-st in next V-st (see Notes), ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2] 9 times, dc in same st as beg ch-5, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Rnd 4: Ch 8 (counts as dc, ch 5), [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 9 times, dc in same st as beg ch-8, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-8 to join. Rnd 5 (join): Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3), sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, [V-st or V-st join (see above) in next V-st, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3] 9 times, dc in same st as beg ch-6, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-6 to join. Fasten off.

Pattern SKIRT YOKE Foundation rnd: Fsc 100 (120, 140, 160, 180) to measure about 231⁄2 (28, 33, 371⁄2, 421⁄2)" unstretched, sl st in beg fsc to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3 throughout), sk first sc, [sk next 4 sc, V-st (see Stitch Guide) in next sc, ch 3] 19 (23, 27, 31, 35) times, sk last 4 sc, dc in same sc as beg ch-6, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-6 to join—20 (24, 28, 32, 36) V-sts. Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2 throughout), sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, [V-st in next V-st (see Stitch Guide), ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2] around, dc in same sp as beg ch-5, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Rnd 3: Ch 7 (counts as dc, ch 4 throughout), [V-st in next V-st, ch 4] around, dc in same sp as beg ch-7, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-7 to join. Rnd 4: Ch 5, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, [V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2] Crochetscene

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Black & White

5 dc in next ch-6 sp, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—94 dc. Do not fasten off.

25 (30, 35, 40, 45)" 63.5 (76, 89, 101.5, 114.5) cm 39 (41, 45, 49, 55)" 99 (104, 114.5, 124.5, 139.5) cm

3" 25 (25, 27, 27, 29)" 7.5 cm 63.5 (63.5, 68.5, 68.5, 73.5) cm

skirt

Sizes 30 (35, 40, 45)" only:

52 (52, 54, 65, 69)" 132 (132, 137, 165, 175) cm

around, dc in same sp as beg ch-5, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Rnd 5: Ch 8 (counts as dc, ch 5 throughout), [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] around, dc in same sp as beg ch-8, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-8 to join. Rnd 6: Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, [V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2] around, dc in same sp as beg ch-5, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join—20 (24, 28, 32, 36) V-sts. Fasten off.

Hip Triangle (Make 2) Note: Work one motif and join it to yoke, then work second motif and join. Ch 8, sl st in first ch to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 2 dc in ring, [ch 3, 3 dc in ring] 5 times, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join—6 ch-3 sps. Rnd 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in same first ch-3 sp, ch 5, [fan (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-3 sp, ch 5] 5 times, 3 dc in same sp as first ch-3, ch 1, sc in top of beg ch-3 to join—6 fans. Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same first ch-2 sp, ch 5, [fan in next fan, ch 5] around, 3 dc in same sp as beg ch-3, ch 1, sc in top of beg ch-3 to join.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in first sp, *ch 6, (spike dtr [see Stitch Guide], ch 6, spike dtr) in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below, ch 6, sc in ch-2 sp of next fan, ch 6, spike dc (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below, ch 6**, sc in ch-2 sp of next fan; rep from * 2 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in first sc to join—15 ch-6 sps. Rnd 5: Ch 3, sk first sc, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, [dc in next dtr, (5 dc, ch 5, 5 dc) in next ch-6 sp for corner, dc in next dtr, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next dc, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp] 2 times, dc in next dtr, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next dtr, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next dc, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join—100 dc. Do not fasten off.

Sizes 35 (40, 45)" only: Rnd 6: Ch 5, sk first dc, sk next 2 dc, *sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, V-st in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in next corner ch-5 sp, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, [sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, V-st in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc] 4 times; rep from * once, [sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in next dc for corner, ch 2, sk next 2 dc] 2 times, [sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, V-st in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc] 2 times, sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in same st as beg ch-3, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join—21 V-sts.

Size 35" only: Rnd 7: Ch 8, *[V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 2

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Sizes 40 (45)" only: Rnd 7: Ch 8, *[V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 2 times, V-st in next ch-2 sp of corner, ch 5, [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 5 times; rep from * once, [V-st in next V-st, ch 5, V-st in next ch-2 sp of corner, ch 5, V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 2 times, [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 2 times, dc in same sp as beg ch-8, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-8 to join—25 V-sts. Do not fasten off.

Size 45" only: Rnd 8: Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, *[V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2] 2 times, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in next V-st for corner, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, [V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2] 5 times; rep from * once, [V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in next V-st for corner, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2 , V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2] 2 times, [V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2] 2 times, dc in same sp as beg ch-5, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join—29 V-sts. Rnd 9: Ch 8, [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 3 times, V-st in next ch-2 sp of corner, ch 5, [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 9 times, V-st in next ch-2 sp of corner, ch 5, [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 8 times, sk next ch-2 sp of corner, [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 4 times, sk next ch-2 sp of corner, [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 4 times, dc

Skirt Yoke

6

BEG TRIANGLE SHAPING: Size 25" only: Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in first sp, [ch 6, (spike dtr (see Stitch Guide), ch 6, spike dtr) in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below, ch 6, sc in ch-2 sp of next fan, ch 6, spike dc (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below, ch 6, sc in ch-2 sp of next fan] 2 times, ch 6, spike dtr in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below, ch 6, sc in ch-2 sp of next fan, ch 6, spike dc in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below, ch 6, sl st in first sc to join—14 ch-6 sps. Rnd 5: Ch 3, sk first sc, 5 dc in first ch-6 sp, [dc in next dtr, (5 dc, ch 5, 5 dc) in next ch-6 sp for corner, dc in next dtr, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next dc, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp] 2 times, dc in next dtr, 5 dc in in next ch-6 sp, dc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next dc,

times, V-st in next ch-2 sp of corner, ch 5, [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 5 times; rep from * once, V-st in next V-st, sk next ch-2 sp of corner, [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 2 times, sk next ch-2 sp of corner, [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 3 times, dc in same sp as beg ch-8, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-8 to join—23 V-sts. Do not fasten off.

Stitch Key 5

= slip stitch (sl st) = chain (ch)

4

= single crochet (sc) = half double crochet (hdc)

3 = double crochet (dc) 2

= double treble (dtr)

1 = join 5-st patt rep


HipTriangle,Size 25"

1

beg large wheel join

2

HipTriangle,Size 30"

3

4

5

1

3

2

4

hip triangle joining rnd

end large wheel join

beg large wheel join

5

hip triangle joining rnd

end large wheel join

HipTriangle,Size 35"

in same sp as beg ch-8, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-8 to join—31 V-sts. Do not fasten off.

All sizes:

Join hip triangle to yoke: Sizes 25 (30)" only: Joining rnd: With RS facing, ch 5, sk first dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, V-st in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, V-st join (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-5 corner sp to a yoke V-st, [ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, V-st join in next dc to next yoke V-st] 5 times, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, V-st join in next ch-5 corner sp to next yoke V-st, [ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, V-st in next dc] 7 (8) times, pm in 5th V-st from last join for large wheel join, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, dc in same sp as beg ch-5, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Fasten off.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

hip triangle joining rnd

Sizes 35 (40, 45)" only: Joining rnd: With RS facing, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, [V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2] 2 (2, 3) times, V-st join (see Stitch Guide) in next V-st to a yoke V-st, [ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, V-st join in next V-st to next yoke V-st] 8 (8, 10) times, [ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, V-st in next V-st] 11 (13, 16) times, pm in 6 (7, 8)th V-st from last join for large wheel join, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc in same st as beg ch-5, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Fasten off.

All sizes: Sk next 3 (5, 5, 7, 7) yoke V-sts and join second hip motif to next 7 (7, 9, 9, 11) yoke V-sts as above, leaving rem 3 (5, 5, 7, 7) yoke V-sts unworked.

SKIRT BODY Large Wheel (Make 2) Note: Work one large wheel and join it

beg large wheel join

to yoke and hip motifs, then work second wheel and join. Ch 8, sl st in first ch to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 26 dc in ring, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—27 dc. Rnd 2: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next 2 dc, [ch 4, dc in next 3 dc] 8 times, ch 2, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join—9 ch-4 sps. Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-4 sp, ch 5, [fan in next ch-4 sp, ch 5] 8 times, 3 dc in same sp as beg sts, ch 1, sc in top of beg ch-3 to join—9 fans.

end large wheel join

Rnd 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in sp created by sc join, ch 5, [fan in next fan, ch 5] around, 3 dc in same sp as beg, ch 1, sc in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 5: Ch 3, 2 dc in sp created by sc join, ch 7, [fan in next fan, ch 7] around, 3 dc in same sp as beg, ch 1, sc in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in sp created by sc join, ch 6, spike dtr in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below, [ch 6, sc in next fan, ch 6, spike dtr in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below] around, ch 6, sl st in first sc to join—18 ch-6 sps.

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Black & White HipTriangle,Size 40" Rnd 7: Ch 3, sk first sc, *6 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next dtr, 6 dc in next ch-6 sp**, dc in next sc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—126 dc. Rnd 8: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next 2 dc, [ch 6, sk next 4 dc, dc in next 3 dc] around to last 4 dc, sk last 4 dc, ch 3, dc in top of beg ch-3 to join—18 ch-6 sps. Rnd 9: Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-6 sp, ch 5, [fan in next ch-6 sp, ch 5] around, 3 dc in same sp as beg, ch 1, sc in top of beg ch-3 to join—18 fans. Rnd 10: Rep Rnd 4. Rnd 11: Rep Rnd 5. Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in first ch-2 sp, ch 5, spike dtr in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below, [ch 5, sc in ch-2 sp of next fan, ch 5, spike dtr in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below] around, ch 5, sl st in first sc to join—36 ch-5 sps. Rnd 13: Ch 3, sk first sc, *5 dc in next ch-5 sp, dc in next dtr, 5 dc in next ch-5 sp**, dc in next sc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—216 dc. Rnd 14: Ch 7 (counts as dc, ch 4), sk first dc, sk next 5 dc, [V-st in next dc, ch 4, sk next 5 dc] around, dc in same st as beg ch-7, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-7 to join—36 V-sts. Rnd 15: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, [V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2] around, dc in same st as beg ch-5, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Rnd 16: Ch 8 (counts as dc, ch 5), [V-st in next V-st, ch 5] around, dc in same sp as beg ch-8, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-8 to join. Do not fasten off.

1

3

2

beg large wheel join

4

5

6

7

hip triangle joining rnd

end large wheel join

HipTriangle,Size 45"

Sizes 35 (40, 45)" only: Rnd 17: Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, *[V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2] 8 (5, 5) times**, (V-st, ch 2, dc) in next V-st for inc, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2; rep from * 3 (5, 5) times, ending last rep at **, V-st in same st as beg ch-5, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Rnd 18: Ch 8, *[V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 9 (6, 6) times**, V-st in next ch-2 sp of inc, ch 5; rep from * 3 (5, 5) times, ending last rep at **, dc in same sp as beg ch-8, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-8 to join—40 (42, 42) V-sts. Do not fasten off.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7 8

9

hip triangle joining rnd

Stitch Key = double crochet (dc)

= slip stitch (sl st)

(dc)

= chain (ch) = single crochet (sc)

= double treble (dtr)

= half double crochet (hdc) = join

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beg large wheel join

end large wheel join


t$PUUPO t7BSJFUZPGZBSOT t'SFTIBOEWJCSBOUDPMPST Garment made with FONTANA

0.&(":"3/4

Pattern #232 Children's Tunic www.knittingpureandsimple.com

'*/&$0550/:"3/4

Nothing gives you the freedom of expression like our Nature Spun yarn. Texture and color are yours to manipulate with this soft, 100% wool yarn in a broad palette of 80 colors, all of which are offered in four weights. Find your inspiration with Brown Sheep today!

www.brownsheep.com

Garment made with Sinfonia

OMEGA Distribuidora de Hilos, S.A. de C.V. (OMEGA YARNS) $BMMFKĂ&#x2DC;O4BO"OUPOJP"CBE/P  $PM5SĂ&#x2C6;OTJUP .Ă?YJDP %' 1IUP'BY &O.Ă?YJDPPSEFO!IJMPTPNFHBDPNNYXXXIJMPTPNFHBDPNNY &O&6NPOB!DSFBUJWFZBSOTPVSDFDPNXXXDSFBUJWFZBSOTPVSDFDPN

Brown Sheep Company, Inc. MITCHELL, NEBRASKA

MADE IN MEXICO

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Black & White

16

Large Wheel (Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;16)

15

14 13 11

12

10 9

8 7 5

6

4 3

2 1

Stitch Key = slip stitch (sl st)

= double crochet (dc) (dc)

= chain (ch) = single crochet (sc)

= double treble (dtr)

= half double crochet (hdc) = join

Size 45" only: Rnd 19: Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, *[V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2] 6 times**, (V-st, ch 2, dc) in next V-st for inc, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, V-st in same st as beg ch-5, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 for join. Rnd 20: Ch 8, *[V-st in next V-st, ch 5] 7 52 Crochetscene

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times**, V-st in next ch-2 sp of inc, ch 5; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, dc in same sp as beg ch-8, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-8â&#x20AC;&#x201D;48 V-sts. Do not fasten off.

All sizes:

Join large wheel to yoke and triangles: Place large wheel between hip triangles.

Joining rnd: With RS facing, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, V-st join in next V-st to marked V-st of hip triangle, [ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, V-st join in next V-st to next V-st of hip triangle] 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) times, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, V-st join in next V-st to shared join of yoke and hip triangle, [ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, V-st join in next V-st to next yoke V-st] 3 (5, 5, 7, 7) times, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, V-st join in next V-st to shared join of yoke and next hip triangle, [ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, V-st join in next V-st to next hip triangle V-st] 5 (5, 6, 7, 8) times, [ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, V-st in next V-st] around, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc in


Trim Wheel

5

4 3

2 1

same sp as beg ch-5, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5. Fasten off.

Body Filler (Make 2) Ch 8, sl st in beg ch to form a ring. Rnds 1–3: Work Rnds 1–3 of hip triangle. Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in beg sp, ch 6, spike tr (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below, [ch 6, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 6, spike tr in next ch-5 sp 2 rnds below] around, ch 6, sl st in first sc to join—12 ch-6 sps. Rnd 5: Ch 3, sk first sc, *7 dc in next ch-6 sp, dc in next tr, 7 dc in next ch-6 sp**, dc in next sc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—96 dc. Do not fasten off.

Sizes 40 (45)" only: Rnd 6: Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3), sk first dc, sk next 3 dc, *sc in next dc, [ch 3, sk next 3 dc, V-st in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc] 2 times, ch 3, sk next 3 dc**, (V-st, ch 2, dc) in next dc for inc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc; rep from * 3 times, ending last rep at **, V-st in same sp as beg ch-6, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-6 to join—24 ch-3 sps. Rnd 7: Ch 3, *[ch 5, V-st in next V-st] 3 times, ch 5**, V-st in next ch-2 sp of inc; rep from * 3 times, ending last rep at **, dc in same sp as beg ch-3, ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-3—16 V-sts. Do not fasten off.

Join body filler to skirt: With RS facing, place body filler between large wheels and below hip triangle. On right large wheel, mark 3rd open V-st down from join of hip triangle with right large wheel.

Sizes 25 (30)" only: Joining rnd: With RS facing, ch 1, sc in same dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, V-st join in next dc to marked V-st of right large wheel, *[ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, V-st join in next dc to next large wheel V-st]* 2 times, [ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, V-st join in next dc to next shared join of large wheel with hip triangle] 1 (2) time(s), rep from * to * 3 times, [ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, V-st in next dc] 5 (4) times, ch 3, sk last 3 dc, sl st in first sc to join—5 (4) unjoined body filler V-sts rem. Fasten off.

Size 35" only: Joining rnd: With RS facing, ch 1, sc in same dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, V-st join in next dc to marked V-st of right large wheel, *[ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, V-st join in next dc to next large wheel V-st]* 2 times, skipping shared joins of large wheel with hip triangle, [ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, V-st join in next V-st to hip triangle V-st] 2 times; rep from * to * 3 times, [ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, V-st in next dc] 4 times, ch 3, sk last 3 dc, sl st in first sc to join—4 unjoined body filler V-sts rem.

Sizes 40 (45)" only: Joining rnd: With RS facing, ch 6, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, V-st join in next V-st to marked V-st of right large wheel, *[ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, V-st join in next V-st

to next large wheel V-st]* 2 times, work [ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, V-st join in next V-st to hip triangle V-st] 4 times, including (excluding) shared joins of large wheel with hip triangle; rep from * to * 3 times, [ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, V-st in next V-st] around, ending with dc in same sp as beg ch-6, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-6 to join. 6 unjoined body filler V-sts rem. Fasten off.

SKIRT TRIM Make 16 (14, 16, 14, 18) trim wheels (see Stitch Guide), working Rnds 1–4 (do not fasten off), then with RS facing, work Rnd 5 to join trim wheels as foll: Trim wheel 1: Beg join in V-st of body filler, 2 V-sts down from shared join of left large wheel and body filler, join to next 2 V-sts of body filler, join to next shared V-st join, join to next 2 large wheel V-sts, then work to end without joining. Fasten off. Trim wheels 2–7 (6, 7, 6, 8): Beg join in V-st of last trim wheel, 2 V-sts down from shared join of large wheel and last trim wheel, join to next 2 V-sts of last trim wheel, join to next shared V-st join, join to next 2 large wheel V-sts, then work to end without joining. Fasten off. Trim wheel 8 (7, 8, 7, 9): Beg join in V-st of last trim wheel, 2 V-sts down from shared join of large wheel and last trim wheel, join to next 2 V-sts of last trim wheel, join to next shared V-st join, join to next large wheel V-sts, join to next shared V-st join of large wheel and body filler, join to next 2 body filler V-sts, then work to end without joining. Fasten off. Rep working Rnd 5 for joining rem 8 (7, 8, 7, 9) trim wheels on other skirt side.

FINISHING Waistband With RS facing and foundation rnd at top, join yarn with sl st in any ch. Crochetscene

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Black & White

Rnd 1: (RS) Working around ch edge of foundation, ch 1, sc in same ch, sc in each ch around, sl st in first sc to join, turn—100 (120, 140, 160, 180) sc. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sk sl st, sc in next sc, sc in each sc around, ending with last sc in sc with sl st, sl st in first sc to join, turn. Rep last rnd 5 more times, or for one rnd taller than elastic for waistband. Fasten off. Weave ends. Block skirt before adding elastic.

Yarn Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock [80% merino wool, 20% nylon; 430 yd [393 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #58NS kerfuffle (MC), 3 hanks; #0NS natural (CC), 2 skeins. Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge 22 sts and 20 rows = 4" in hdc.

Elastic Casing

Shawl is worked in panels. Panel 1 is worked first, then Panels 2 and 3 are worked in Panel 1 row-ends. To change color: Work last yarn over of stitch with new color and draw through. Do not fasten off when changing colors. Carry yarn up side of work.

Cut a length of elastic that is your waist measurement plus 2" for overlap. Overlap the ends and safety pin tog. Thread a length of yarn (at least double the circumference) on tapestry needle and place elastic on WS of skirt waistband. With WS of waistband facing, insert tapestry needle from front to back and right to left around a fsc post (backstitch made), bring needle up and over elastic to top edge of waistband, sk the sc directly above the fsc just used, sk next sc stem, insert needle from front to back and right to left around next sc at top edge (backstitch made), [bring needle up and over elastic back down to the foundation, sk next 3 sts, backstitch around next fsc, bring needle up to top edge, sk next 3 sts, backstitch around next sc] around, working across the elastic and enclosing it in a open zigzag casing. Fasten off. Try on skirt, adjusting elastic as needed, overlap and securely sew elastic ends together.

FILM NOIR SHAWL Keilah Fok

1

2

3

Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock www.lornaslaces.net

Getting Started Finished Size About 70" long and 161⁄4" deep; excluding edging. 2017

Panel 3 With WS facing, join CC with sl st in opposite end of panel 1. Rows 1–36: Rep as for panel 2. Fasten off CC. Do not fasten off MC.

Edging

Main body patt Ch 26 for gauge swatch. Row 1: (RS) Hdc3tog in 3rd, 4th, and 5th chs from hook, hdc in next ch and each ch across to last ch, 3 hdc in last ch, turn. Row 2: Ch 2, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in next st and each st across to last 3 sts, hdc3tog in last 3 sts, turn. Row 3: Ch 2, hdc3tog in first 3 sts, hdc in next st and each st across to last st, 3 hdc in last st, turn. Rep Rows 2–3 for patt.

With RS facing and MC, ch 1, *3 sc in first row-end, 2 sc in each of next 2 row-ends, [3 sc in next row-end, 2 sc in next 2 row-ends] 11 times**, work sc in each foundation ch across, working in row-ends of panel 2, [2 sc in next 2 row-ends, 3 sc in next row-end] 11 times, 2 sc in each of next 2 row-ends, 4 sc in end of last row, rotate to work across last row of panel 2, sc across, rotate to work in row-ends across panel; rep from * to **, working across last row of panel 1, sc in next 226 hdc, working in row-ends across panel 3, [2 sc in each of next 2 row-ends, 3 sc in next row] 11 times, 2 sc in each of next 2 row-ends, 4 sc in last row, rotate to work across last row of panel 3, sc across, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Pattern

Weave in ends. Block.

Stitch Guide

Panel 1 With MC, ch 228, turn. Row 1: (RS) Work Row 1 of main body patt—226 sts. Rows 2–3: Work Rows 2–3 of main body patt. Row 4: Work Row 2 of main body patt, changing color to CC in last st (see Notes), do not fasten off MC (see Notes). Row 5: (RS) With CC, Work Row 3 of main body patt. Rows 6–7: Work Rows 2–3 of main body patt. Row 8: Work Row 2 of main body patt, changing color to MC in last st. Row 9: With MC, work Row 3 of main body patt. Rows 10–85: Rep Rows 2–9 nine times. Rows 86–88: Rep Rows 2–4, do not turn at end of row 4—21 stripes.

Panel 2

4

54 Crochetscene

Notes

Rows 5–6: With CC, work Rows 2–3 of main body patt, changing to MC in last st. Rows 7–36: Rep Rows 3–6 eight times, ending last rep with Row 4—18 stripes at end of last row. Fasten off.

Rotate to work across panel 1 edge. Row 1: (WS) Hdc3tog in first 2 row-ends, hdc in same row-end as last st of hdc3tog, *3 hdc in next row-end, 2 hdc in each of next 2 row-ends; rep from * across to last st, 4 hdc in last row-end, turn—196 sts. Row 2: Work Row 3 of main body patt, changing to MC in last st. Rows 3–4: With MC, work Rows 2–3 of main body patt, changing to CC in last st.

FINISHING


Yarn Cascade Yarns Magnum (100% Peruvian Highlands wool; 123 yd [112 m]/8¾ oz [250 g]; ): #0050 black, 1 hank. Hook Size 12.0 mm (see Notes). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle; Bernat® Faux Fur Pompom (www.yarnspirations.com/yarn/ faux-fur-pompom.html). Gauge 4 sts and 2 rows = 21⁄2" in dc.

Notes Hat was worked using the Clover Amour 12.0 mm crochet hook. If the exact hook is not available, try to obtain the proper gauge utilizing an N/P/15 (10 mm) or P/Q (15 mm) standard hook.

HI-FI HAT Vickie Howell

1

2

3

Rnds 3–7: Ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, working in front of dc just made, dc in last skipped dc, *cross-st (see Stitch Guide) around to first dc, sk first dc, working in front of first dc, dc in rem skipped dc from beg of rnd, do not join. Rnd 8: Ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, working in front of dc just made, dc in last skipped dc, *cross-st around to first dc, sk first dc, dc in rem skipped dc from beg of rnd, sl st in first dc to join. Rnd 9: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in each dc around, sl st in first hdc to join, fasten off.

FINISHING With RS facing, sew pom-pom to center top of hat. Weave in ends. Block as desired.

Stitch Guide Cross-stitch (cross-st): Sk next dc, dc in next dc, working in front of dc just made, dc in skipped dc.

4

Pattern Cascade Yarns Magnum www.cascadeyarns.com

Getting Started Finished Size 20" circumference and 101⁄2" long.

Ch 4, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), 12 dc in ring, sl st in first dc to join—13 dc. Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each dc around, sl st in first dc to join—26 dc.

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Projects that play with negative space

Limitless Coat by Teva Durham Inspired by dramatic high-fashion crochet outerwear, this coat with removable hood keeps you uberwarm without weighing you down, thanks to its openwork pattern. Yarn Berroco Peruvia Quick. Page 62.

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Less Traveled Shawl by Double Stitch Twins Tie on this fashion-forward openwork shawl, which features a contemporary twist on a traditional shape. The panels feature different types of openwork in a horizontal and vertical format. Yarn Brooklyn Tweed Quarry. Page 67. < Lacuna Cowl by Courtney Kelley Shell stitches build up quickly to form this chunky openwork cowl, perfect when thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a nip in the air and your outfit needs a bit of wow. Yarn The Fibre Company Tundra (distributed by Kelbourne Woolens). Page 66.

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Expanse Scarf by Vickie Howell Go all dramatic with this super-long filet-crochet scarf that works up superfast in a fabulous thick-and-thin art yarn. Yarn Knit Collage Cast Away. Page 69. Breadth Beanie > by Sara Dudek You are gonna live in this beanie! Inspired by the idea of open spaces and interesting visual effects, this hat pattern features filet crochet and puff stitches. Yarn Manos del Uruguay Wool Clasica (distributed by Fairmount Fibers). Page 69.

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Wide Open Spaces

ending with last hdc in top of tch, turn—3 ch-4 sps. Row 3: Ch 3, [sh (see above) in next ch-4 sp] across, dc in top of tch, turn—3 shs. Row 4: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn—20 sts. Rep Rows 1–4 for patt.

Pattern BODY

Teva Durham

1

2

3

4

Berroco Peruvia Quick www.berroco.com

Getting Started Finished Size 301⁄2 (343⁄4, 391⁄4, 431⁄2, 473⁄4)" bust circumference, including 13⁄4" wide front bands. Coat shown measures 343⁄4", modeled with 13⁄4" ease. Yarn Berroco Peruvia Quick (100% wool; 103 yd [94 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #9143 aquamarina, 12 (13, 14, 16, 17) hanks. Hooks Sizes L/11 (8 mm) and H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions 32" long separating zipper; six 5⁄8" snaps (size 4); sewing needle and matching sewing thread; yarn needle. Gauge 11 sts and 6 rows = 4" in grand box patt with larger hook.

Notes

Stitch Key = chain (ch)

Row 1: (WS) Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc in next 16 (20, 23, 26, 29) dc, hdc2tog 4 times, hdc in next 36 (40, 46, 52, 58) dc, hdc2tog 4 times, hdc in last 17 (21, 24, 27, 30) dc to end, turn—78 (90, 102, 114, 126) sts rem. Row 2: Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc in next 16 (20, 23, 26, 29) hdc, dc2tog 2 times, dc in next 34 (40, 46, 52, 58) hdc, dc2tog 2 times, dc in last 17 (21, 24, 27, 30) dc to end, turn—74 (86, 98, 110, 122) sts rem. Row 3: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc in next dc, *ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc; rep from * across, ending with last hdc in top of tch, turn—12 (14, 16, 18, 20) ch-4 sps rem. Row 4: Ch 3, [sh in next ch-4 sp] across, dc in top of tch, turn—12 (14, 16, 18, 20) shs. Row 5: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn—74 (86, 98, 110, 122) sts. Rows 6–12: Rep Rows 1–4 of grand box patt 2 times.

RIGHT FRONT: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc in next 16 (16, 20, 22, 22) hdc, dc2tog, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—18 (18, 22, 24, 24) front sts rem. Row 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc in next 1 (1, 3, 1, 1) dc, ch 2 (2, 4, 2, 2), sk next 2 (2, 4, 2, 2) dc, hdc in next 2 dc, [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc] 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) times, ending

= half double crochet (hdc)

= double crochet (dc)

= pattern repeat

Coat is worked in one piece to underarms, then fronts and back are worked separately. Sleeves are worked back and forth and sewn in. Removable hood uses short-row shaping for gusset.

Shape sides:

Grand Box Pattern 4>

Stitch Guide Shell (sh): 6 dc in indicated st or sp. Grand box patt: (multiple of 6 sts + 2) With larger hook, ch 21 for gauge swatch. Set-up row: (WS) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped 2 ch count as first hdc) and in each ch across, turn—20 hdc. Row 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), sk first hdc, dc across to last st, dc in 2nd ch of beg 2 skipped ch, turn. Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout), sk first dc, hdc in next dc, *ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc; rep from * across, 62 Crochetscene

2017

<3 2> <1 set-up row >

6-st patt rep

rep for patt

LIMITLESS COAT

With larger hook, ch 87 (99, 111, 123, 135). Set-up row: (WS) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped 2 ch count as first hdc) and in each ch across, turn—86 (98, 110, 122, 134) hdc. Row 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), sk first hdc, dc across to last st, dc in 2nd ch of beg 2 skipped ch, turn. Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout), sk first dc, hdc in next dc, *ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc; rep from * across, ending with last hdc in top of tch, turn—14 (16, 18, 20, 22) ch-4 sps. Row 3: Ch 3, [sh (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-4 sp] across, dc in top of tch, turn—14 (16, 18, 20, 22) shs. Row 4: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn—86 (98, 110, 122, 134) sts. Rows 5–13: Rep Rows 1–4 two times, then work Row 1 once more. Row 14 (pocket openings): (WS) Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc in next dc, [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc] 2 times, ch 10, sk next 10 dc for first pocket opening, hdc in next 2 dc, [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc]

6 (8, 10, 12, 14) times, ch 10, sk next 10 dc for second pocket opening, hdc in next 2 dc, [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc] 2 times, ending with last hdc in top of tch, turn—2 ch-4 sps each front, 2 ch-10 sps for each pocket slit, 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) ch-4 sps for back. Row 15: Ch 3, [sh in next ch-4 sp] 2 times, 12 dc in next ch-10 sp, [sh in next ch-4 sp] 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) times, 12 dc in next ch-10 sp, [sh in next ch-4 sp] 2 times, dc in top of tch, turn—10 (12, 14, 16, 18) shs, two 12-dc groups. Row 16: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn—86 (98, 110, 122, 134) sts. Rows 17–23: Rep Rows 1–4, then work Rows 1–3 once more—14 (16, 18, 20, 22) shs.


with last hdc in top of tch, turn—1 (1, 0, 1, 1) ch-2 sp(s), 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) ch-4 sps. Row 3: Ch 3, [sh in next ch-4 sp] 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) times, 4 dc in next ch-2 sp 1 (1, 0, 1, 1) time(s), dc in next 0 (0, 2, 0, 0) hdc, dc in top of tch, turn—2 (2, 3, 3, 3) shs, 1 (1, 0, 1, 1) 4-dc group(s). Row 4: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn—18 (18, 22, 24, 24) sts. Row 5: Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Rows 6–9: Rep Rows 2–5.

Row 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc in next 6 hdc, hdc in next 5 hdc, sc in last 5 hdc. Fasten off.

Shape front neck:

All sizes:

Row 1: (WS) Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc in next 1 (1, 3, 1, 1) dc, ch 2 (2, 4, 2, 2), sk next 2 (2, 4, 2, 2) dc, hdc in next 2 dc, [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc] 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) time(s), turn, leaving rem 6 sts unworked—1 (1, 0, 1, 1) ch-2 sp(s), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) ch-4 sp(s) rem. Row 2: Ch 3, [sh in next ch-4 sp] 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) time(s), 4 dc in next ch-2 sp 1 (1, 0, 1, 1) time(s), dc in next 0 (0, 2, 0, 0) hdc, dc in top of tch, turn— 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) sh(s), 1 (1, 0, 1, 1) 4-dc group(s). Row 3: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, turn—11 (11, 15, 17, 17) sts rem.

Shape shoulder: Sizes 301⁄2 (343⁄4)" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc in next 4 hdc, hdc in next 3 hdc, sc in last 3 hdc. Fasten off.

Size 391⁄4" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first 4 dc, hdc in next 5 dc, dc in last 6 dc. Fasten off.

Size 431⁄2" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn.

Size 473⁄4" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Row 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn. Row 3: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first 5 dc, hdc in next 5 dc, dc in last 7 dc. Fasten off.

BACK: With RS facing and larger hook, sk next 0 (6, 4, 6, 12) sts after last st of right front for underarm, join yarn in next st. Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 32 (32, 40, 44, 44) hdc, dc2tog, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—34 (34, 42, 46, 46) back sts rem. Row 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc in next 1 (1, 3, 1, 1) dc, ch 2 (2, 4, 2, 2), sk next 2 (2, 4, 2, 2) dc, hdc in next 2 dc, [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc] 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) times, ch 2 (2, 4, 2, 2), sk next 2 (2, 4, 2, 2) sts, hdc in next 1 (1, 3, 1, 1) dc, hdc in top of tch, turn—2 (2, 0, 2, 2) ch-2 sps, 4 (4, 6, 6, 6) ch-4 sps. Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next 0 (0, 2, 0, 0) hdc, 4 dc in next ch-2 sp 1 (1, 0, 1, 1) time(s), [sh in next ch-4 sp] 4 (4, 6, 6, 6) times, 4 dc in next ch-2 sp 1 (1, 0, 1, 1) time(s), dc in next 0 (0, 2, 0, 0) hdc, dc in top of tch, turn—2 (2, 0, 2, 2) ch-2 sps, 4 (4, 6, 6, 6) ch-4 sps. Row 4: Ch 2, sk first st, hdc across, turn—34 (34, 42, 46, 46) sts. Row 5: Ch 3, sk first st, dc across, turn. Rows 6–12: Rep Rows 2–5, then work Rows 2–4 once more.

Shape neck and shoulders: Sizes 301⁄2 (343⁄4)" only: Row 1 (right shoulder): (RS) Ch 1, sc in first 3 hdc, hdc in next 3 hdc, dc in next 4, dc2tog, fasten off, leaving rem sts unworked—11 shoulder sts. With RS facing, sk next 10 sts after last right shoulder st for back neck, join yarn in next st. Row 1 (left shoulder): (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc2tog, dc in next 3 hdc, hdc in next 3 hdc, sc in last 3 hdc—11 shoulder sts. Fasten off.

Size 391⁄4" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Row 2 (left shoulder): (WS) Ch 1, sc in first 4 dc, hdc in next 5 dc, dc in next 5 dc, dc2tog, fasten off, leaving rem sts unworked—15 shoulder sts. With WS facing, sk next 10 sts after last left shoulder st for back neck, join yarn in next st. Row 2 (right shoulder): (WS) Ch 3, sk first dc, dc2tog, dc in next 4 dc, hdc in next 5 dc, sc in last 4 dc—15 shoulder sts. Fasten off.

Size 431⁄2" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Row 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn. Row 3 (right shoulder): (RS) Ch 1, sc in first 5 hdc, hdc in next 5 hdc, dc in next 6 hdc, dc2tog, fasten off, leaving rem sts unworked—17 shoulder sts. With RS facing, sk next 10 sts after last right shoulder st for back neck, join yarn in next st. Row 3 (left shoulder): (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc2tog, dc in next 5 hdc, hdc in next 5 hdc, sc in last 5 hdc—17 shoulder sts. Fasten off.

Size 473⁄4" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Row 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Row 4 (left shoulder): (WS) Ch 1, sc in first 5 dc, hdc in next 5 dc, dc in next 6 dc, dc2tog, fasten off, leaving rem sts unworked—17 shoulder sts. With WS facing, sk next 10 sts after last left shoulder st for back neck, join yarn in next st. Row 4 (right shoulder): (WS) Ch 3, sk first dc, dc2tog, dc in next 5 dc, hdc in next 5 dc, sc in last 5 dc—17 shoulder sts. Fasten off.

All sizes:

LEFT FRONT: With RS facing and larger hook, sk next 0 (6, 4, 6, 12) sts after last st of back for underarm, join yarn in next st.

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Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk next hdc, dc in last 17 (17, 21, 23, 23) hdc, turn—18 (18, 22, 24, 24) front sts rem. Row 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc in next dc, [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc] 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) times, ch 2 (2, 4, 2, 2), sk next 2 (2, 4, 2, 2) dc, hdc in next 1 (1, 3, 1, 1) dc, hdc in top of tch, turn—1 (1, 0, 1, 1) ch-2 sp(s), 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) ch-4 sps. Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next 0 (0, 2, 0, 0) hdc, 4 dc in next ch-2 sp 1 (1, 0, 1, 1) time(s), [sh in next ch-4 sp] 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) times, dc in top of tch, turn—2 (2, 3, 3, 3) shs, 1 (1, 0, 1, 1) 4-dc group(s). Row 4: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn—18 (18, 22, 24, 24) sts. Row 5: Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Rows 6–9: Rep Rows 2–5.

Shape front neck: Row 1: (WS) Sl st in first 7 dc for front neck, ch 2, sk same st, hdc in next dc, [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc] 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) time(s), ch 2 (2, 4, 2, 2), sk next 2 (2, 4, 2, 2) dc, hdc in next 1 (1, 3, 1, 1) dc, hdc in top of tch, turn—1 (1, 0, 1, 1) ch-2 sp(s), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) ch-4 sp(s) rem. Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next 0 (0, 2, 0, 0) hdc, 4 dc in next ch-2 sp 1 (1, 0, 1, 1) time(s), [sh in next ch-4 sp] 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) time(s), dc in top of tch, turn— 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) sh(s), 1 (1, 0, 1, 1) 4-dc group(s). Row 3: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc2tog, hdc across, turn—11 (11, 15, 17, 17) sts rem.

Shape shoulder: Sizes 301⁄2 (343⁄4)" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first 3 hdc, hdc in next 3 hdc, dc in last 5 hdc—11 sts. Fasten off.

3¾" 9.5 cm 4 (4, 5, 6¼, 6¼)" 10 (10, 12.5, 16, 16) cm ¾" 2 cm

sleeve

13 (13¾, 14½, 15¼, 16¾)" 33 (35, 37, 38.5, 42.5) cm

27 (31¼, 35¾, 40, 44¼)" 68.5 (79.5, 90.5, 101.5, 112.5) cm

18¾" 47.5 cm

23¼" 59 cm

body

5¼" 13.5 cm

8¼ (8¼, 9, 9½, 10¼)" 21 (21, 23, 24, 26) cm

2¼ (2¼, 3, 3½, 4¼)" 5.5 (5.5, 7.5, 9, 11) cm 3¾ (5, 5, 5¾, 5¾)" 9.5 (12.5, 12.5, 14.5, 14.5) cm

Size 391⁄4" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Row 2: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next 5 dc, hdc in next 5 dc, sc in last 4 dc—15 shoulder sts. Fasten off.

Size 431⁄2" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Row 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first 5 hdc, hdc in next 5 hdc, dc in last 7 hdc—17 shoulder sts. Fasten off.

Size 473⁄4" only: 31¼ (35¾, 40, 44¼, 48¾)" 79.5 (90.5, 101.5, 112.5, 124) cm

64 Crochetscene

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9½ (10¼, 11, 11¾, 12¼)" 24 (26, 28, 30, 31) cm

Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Row 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn.


Row 3: Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next 6 dc, hdc in next 5 dc, sc in last 5 dc—17 shoulder sts. Fasten off.

SLEEVE (MAKE 2) With larger hook, ch 27 (29, 31, 33, 37). Set-up row: (WS) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped 2 ch count as first hdc) and in each ch across, turn—26 (28, 30, 32, 36) hdc. Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc across to last st, dc in 2nd ch of beg 2 skipped ch, turn. Row 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc in next 0 (1, 2, 3, 4) dc, [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc] 4 times, hdc in last 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) dc, ending with last hdc in top of tch, turn—4 ch-4 sps. Row 3: Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc in next 0 (1, 2, 3, 4) hdc, [sh in next ch-4 sp] 4 times, dc in last 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) hdc, ending with last dc in top of tch, turn—4 shs. Row 4: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc across, turn—26 (28, 30, 32, 36) sts. Rows 5–11: Rep Rows 1–4 , then work Rows 1–3 once more. Row 12 (inc): (WS) Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc across to last st, 2 hdc in last st—2 sts inc'd. Rows 13–28: Cont in patt as est, rep Inc row every 4th row (Row 4 of grand box patt) 4 times—36 (38, 40, 42, 46) sts.

Shape sleeve cap: Row 1: (RS) Sl st in first 0 (3, 2, 3, 5) hdc, ch 3, dc2tog, dc across to last 2 (4, 3, 4, 6) sts, dc2tog, turn—34 (32, 36, 36, 36) sts rem. Row 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc2tog 2 (1, 2, 2, 2) time(s), hdc in next 1 (2, 2, 2, 1) dc, [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc] 4 times, hdc in next 0 (1, 1, 1, 0) dc, hdc2tog 2 (1, 2, 2, 2) time(s), turn—4 ch-4 sps; 30 (30, 32, 32, 32) sts rem. Row 3: Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc2tog, dc in next 0 (0, 1, 1, 1) hdc, [sh in next ch-4 sp] 4 times, sk next hdc, dc in next 1 (1, 2, 2, 1) hdc, dc2tog, turn—4 shs; 28 (28, 30, 30, 30) sts rem. Row 4: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc2tog 2 (1, 2, 2, 2) time(s), hdc across to last 4 (2, 4, 4, 4) sts, hdc2tog 2 (1, 2, 2, 2) time(s), turn— 24 (26, 26, 26, 26) sts rem. Row 5: Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc2tog, dc across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn—22 (24, 24, 24, 24) sts rem. Row 6: Ch 2, sk first dc, hdc2tog 2 (1, 1, 1, 0) time(s), hdc in next 1 (0, 0, 0, 1) dc, [ch 2, sk next 2 dc, hdc in next 2 dc] 0 (1, 1, 1, 1) time(s), [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 dc] 2 times, [ch 2, sk next 2 dc, hdc in next dc] 0 (1, 1, 1, 1) time(s), hdc2tog 2 (1, 1, 1, 0) time(s), hdc in next 0 (0, 0, 0, 1) dc, turn—2 ch-4 sps, 0 (2, 2, 2) ch-2 sps.

Row 7: Ch 3, sk first hdc, dc2tog 1 (0, 0, 0, 0) time(s), [4 dc in next ch-2 sp] 0 (1, 1, 1, 1) time(s), [sh in next ch-4 sp] 2 times, [4 dc in next ch-2 sp] 0 (1, 1, 1, 1) time(s), dc in next 1 (0, 0, 1, 1) hdc, dc2tog 1 (0, 0, 0, 0) time(s), turn—2 ch-4 shs; 16 (22, 22, 22, 24) sts rem. Row 8: Ch 2, hdc2tog 3 (4, 4, 3, 4) times, hdc across to last 6 (8, 8, 6, 8) sts, hdc2tog 3 (4, 4, 3, 4) times, turn—10 (14, 14, 16, 16) sts rem. Fasten off.

FINISHING Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams and sew in sleeves.

Pocket Lining (make 2) With smaller hook, ch 22. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—21 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Rep last row until piece measures 7". Fasten off. Place lining on WS of coat with lining top edge 2" above pocket opening and bottom edge 5" below. Sew lining edge to coat all the way around.

Pocket Flaps (make 2) Work as for pocket lining until piece measures 21⁄2", then rotate piece, sc in rowends to corner, 3 sc in corner, rotate piece, sc along foundation ch to next corner, 3 sc

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Wide Open Spaces

in corner, rotate piece, sc in row-ends to top corner. Fasten off. Sew last row of flap to RS top edge of pocket opening.

Stitch Guide Fan: 4 dc in indicated st. Openwork fan patt (multiple of 6) Rnd 1: Ch 3, 3 dc in first sc, ch 1, sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc, ch 1, sk next 2 sc, *fan (see above) in next sc, ch 1, sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc, ch 1, sk next 2 sc; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 2: Sl st across to first sc, ch 3, 3 dc in same sc as last sl st, *ch 1**, sc in next fan (see Notes), ch 1, fan in next sc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sc in first fan, ch 1, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rep Rnds 1–2 for patt.

Front Bands

Courtney Kelley

1

Collar With RS facing and smaller hook, join yarn in beg of right neck shaping. Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly along edge to shoulder seam, then across back neck to next shoulder seam, then along edge to beg of left neck shaping, turn. Work 11 more rows in sc, ending with a WS row. Do not fasten off. Rotate piece and sc evenly in row-ends of collar down to beg of neck shaping. Fasten off. With WS facing, join yarn in beg of other neck shaping, sc evenly in row-ends of collar up to collar top edge. Fasten off.

HOOD With smaller hook, ch 73. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—72 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Rep last row until piece measures 9".

Shape back gusset: Short-row: (WS) Ch 1, sc in first 30 sts, sl st in next 2 sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked. Next row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Short-row: Ch 1, sc in first 30 sts, sl st in next 2 unworked sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked. Next row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Rep last 2 rows 4 more times—30 sts rem unworked. With WS facing, sl st tog last row with rem 30 unworked sts. Fasten off. Hood bottom band: With RS facing, join yarn in right corner at the bottom of the hood, ch 1, sc evenly across edge of hood and gusset to other corner, turn. Work 3 more sc rows. Fasten off. Sew 6 “male” snaps evenly spaced along WS of hood bottom band, with first and last snaps about 3" from front edges. Sew “female” snaps opposite of “male” snaps to underside of collar. Weave in ends.

66 Crochetscene

LACUNA COWL

2017

2

3

4

The Fibre Company Tundra (distributed by Kelbourne Woolens) kelbournewoolens.com

Getting Started Finished Size 30" in circumference and 10" wide. Yarn The Fibre Company Tundra (distributed by Kelbourne Woolens) (60% baby alpaca, 30% merino wool, 10% silk; 120 yd [109 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): northern lights, 2 skeins. Hook Size L/11 (8 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Tapestry needle. Gauge 1 rep and 4 rnds = 3" in patt.

Notes When told to work in fan, work in space between second and third double crochet of fan, unless otherwise stated.

Stitch Key = chain (ch) = slip stitch (sl st) = single crochet (sc) = double crochet (dc)

= fan

Reduced openwork fan patt < 16 < 15 < 14 <5

<4 <3 <2 <1

rep 4 times

Left band: With RS facing and smaller hook, join yarn in beg of neck shaping, ch 1, sc evenly in row-ends to bottom corner, turn. Ch 1, sc across, turn. Work 3 more rows in sc. Fasten off. Right band: Work as for left band, beg at bottom edge working up to beg of neck shaping. Zipper: Open and close zipper a few times to ensure it is in working order. Pin zipper bands to WS of front edges so that zipper teeth are clear from fabric and bottom edge is about even with bottom edge of coat. Using sewing needle and thread, backstitch zipper bands in place and then whipstitch band edges to WS of front bands.


Pattern

Notes

Stitch Guide

COWL

This pattern is created with five panels that are stitched together with single crochet topstitching. A and C panels are worked horizontally and B panels are worked vertically.

Fan: (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in indicated sp. Shell (sh): 5 dc in indicated st or sp. Acrobatic patt (multiple of 6 +1 +1) Ch 20 for gauge swatch. Row 1: Working in back ridge lps, hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped 2 ch count as first hdc), hdc across, turn—19 hdc.

Ch 66, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Lower border Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same ch as join, sc around, sl st in first sc to join—66 sts. Rnds 2–3: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join.

BODY Rnds 4–5: Work Rnds 1–2 of openwork fan patt. Rnds 6–13: Rep Rnds 4–5 four times.

8" 20.5 cm

8" 20.5 cm

8" 20.5 cm

Panel C

Panel B

Panel A

Upper Border

23" 58.5 cm

Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 3 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next sc, *sk next ch-1 sp, sc in next 4 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next sc; rep from * around—66 sts. Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc around. Rnd 16: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off rnd.

Panel B

Panel C

FINISHING 27½" 70 cm

Weave in ends. Soak in cool water and wool wash. Lay flat to dry.

36" 91.5 cm

LESS TRAVELED SHAWL Double Stitch Twins

1

2

3

4

Brooklyn Tweed Quarry www.brooklyntweed.com

Getting Started Finished Size About 40" wide and 36" long. Yarn Brooklyn Tweed Quarry (100% wool; 200 yd [183 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): sulphur (A), 3 skeins, slate (B), 2 skeins. Hook Size M/13 (9 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Tapestry needle. Gauge 3 sh and 3 ch-4 sps = 8" and 4 rows = 3" in panel A; 6 dc and 5 ch-1 sps = 4" and 6 rows = 41⁄2" in panels B and C.

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Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first hdc, *ch 4, sk next 5 hdc**, sh in next hdc; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, 3 dc in top of beg 2 sk chs, turn—2 sh, 3 ch-4 sps, 6 dc. Row 3: Ch 2, sk next 2 dc, *(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-4 sp**, sk next 5 dc; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sk next 2 dc, dc in top of tch, turn—3 fans, 2 dc. Row 4: Ch 6 (counts as dtr and ch-1), *sh in next ch-3 sp**, ch 4; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 1, dtr in top of tch,

turn—3 sh, 2 ch-4 sp, 2 ch-1 sp, 2 dtr. Row 5: Ch 5 (counts as tr and ch-1), 3 dc in ch-1 sp, *sk next 5 dc**, fan in next ch-4 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, 3 dc in last ch-1 sp, ch 1, tr in 5th ch of beg ch-6, turn—6 dc, 2 fans, 2 ch-1 sp, 2 tr. Row 6: Ch 2, 2 dc in ch-1 sp, *ch 4**, sh in next ch-3 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, 3 dc in top of tch, turn—2 sh, 3 ch-4 sps, 6 dc. Rows 7–9: Rep Rows 3–5. Row 10: Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout),

Reduced acrobatic patt

< 11

10 >

<9

8>

hdc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 5**, hdc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, hdc in last ch-1 sp, hdc in tch, turn. Row 11: Ch 2, hdc in each st and ch across. Fasten off. The “Acrobatic stitch” is from The Harmony Guides, Basic Crochet Stitches, edited by Erika Knight, page 79).

Pattern SHAWL Panel A (make 1) With A, ch 85. Row 1: Working in back ridge lps, hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped 3 ch count as first hdc), hdc across, turn—84 hdc. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), *dc in next hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc; rep from * across, dc in next dc, dc in top of beg 2 skipped chs, turn—44 dc, 41 ch-1 sp. Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep * across, dc in last 2 dc, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next dc, *ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across to last 3 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in last 2 dc, turn. Rows 5–10: Rep Rows 3–4. Row 11: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in each dc and ch-1 across. Fasten off.

Panel B (make 2) <7

6>

<5

4>

With B, ch 25. Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped 2 ch count as first dc), dc across, turn—24 dc. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), *dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc; rep from * across, dc in top of beg 2 skipped chs, turn—13 dc, 11 ch-1 sp. Rows 3–35: Ch 3, *dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep * across, dc in tch, turn. Row 36: Ch 3, dc in each dc and ch-1 sp across. Fasten off.

Panel C (make 2)

<3

With A, ch 56. Rows 1–11: Work Rows 1–11 of acrobatic patt. Fasten off at end of last row.

Assembly With A, working through both thicknesses, sc panels tog according to diagram.

2>

First tie <1

With RS facing, with B, ch 100, join with sc in panel A/B join, sc across to next panel A/B join, ch 100. Fasten off.

Second tie With RS facing, with A, ch 80, join with sc in 12th sc of first tie, sc across to last 11 sc of first tie, ch 80. Fasten off.

Stitch Key = chain (ch) = single crochet (sc)

= treble crochet (tr)

FINISHING Weave in ends.

= half double crochet (hdc)

= double crochet (dc)

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= double treble crochet (dtr)


Pattern

Notes

SCARF

This hat is worked from the top down. The bottom ribbing is worked perpendicular to the rest of the hat.

Ch 13. Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped chs count as first hdc), hdc in each ch across, turn—12 hdc. Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in next hdc, *ch 3, sk next 3 hdc, tr in next 2 hdc; rep from * across, turn—6 tr, 6 ch. Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in each st and ch across, turn—12 hdc. Rep Rows 2–3 until piece measures 74". Fasten off at end of last row.

FRINGE First end

EXPANSE SCARF Vickie Howell

1

2

3

*Insert fringe (see Stitch Guide) bet first 2 sts, bet 5th and 6th sts, bet 8th and 9th sts and bet last 2 sts* on Row 1 of scarf.

Second end

4

Rep bet first end * across last row of scarf.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

Knit Collage Cast Away knitcollage.com

Getting Started Finished Size About 6" wide and 74" long, excluding fringe. Yarn Knit Collage Cast Away (99% wool, 1% poly; 68 yd [62 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): meadow sparkle, 2 hanks. Hook Size N/P (10 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Tapestry needle. Gauge 6 hdc and 2 rows = 3" in patt.

Stitch Guide Fringe: Cut three 16" lengths of yarn. Hold the 3 lengths of yarn tog, fold in half. Insert crochet hook from WS to RS between indicated sts. Draw lp of folded ends through, then draw all ends through lp. Pull on ends to tighten.

BREADTH BEANIE Sara Dudek

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4

Manos del Uruguay Wool Clasica (distributed by Fairmount Fibers) fairmountfibers.com

Getting Started Finished Size About 20" in circumference and 9 inches long. Yarn Manos del Uruguay Wool Clasica (distributed by Fairmount Fibers) (100% wool; 138 yd [126 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #63 heliotrope (blue), 1 hank. Hook Size G/6 (4.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Gauge (Dc, ch 1) 7 times and Rnds 1–8 = 33⁄4".

Stitch Guide Puff stitch (puff): *Yo, insert hook in indicated ch, yo and pull up a lp to height of dc; rep from * 3 times (9 lps on hook), yo and draw through all lps on hook, ch 1.

Pattern HAT Rnd 1: (RS) Make an adjustable ring, ch 2 (does not count as dc throughout), (dc in ring, ch 1) 6 times, sl st in first dc to join, tighten ring—6 dc, 6 ch. Rnd 2: Ch 2, (dc, ch 1) 2 times in each dc around, sl st in first dc to join—12 dc, 12 ch. Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in first dc, ch 1, *(dc, ch 1) 2 times in next dc**, dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first dc to join—18 dc, 18 ch. Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in first dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, *(dc, ch 1) 2 times in next dc**, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 times; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first dc to join—24 dc, 24 ch. Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in first dc, ch 1, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 times, *(dc, ch 1) 2 times in next dc**, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 3 times; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first dc to join—30 dc, 30 ch. Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc in first dc, ch 1, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 3 times, *(dc, ch 1) 2 times in next dc**, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 4 times; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first dc to join—36 dc, 36 ch. Rnd 7: Ch 2, [dc in next dc, ch 1] around, sl st in first dc to join—36 dc, 36 ch. Rnd 8: Ch 2, dc in first dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 times, puff (see Stitch Guide) in next ch, *[dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times, dc in next dc, puff in next ch; rep from * around to last 3 dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 3 times, sl st in first dc to join—36 dc, 6 puffs, 30 ch. Rnd 9: Ch 2, dc in first dc, ch 1, *dc in next dc, puff in next ch, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, puff in next ch**, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 3 times; rep from * around to last 2 dc, ending last rep at **, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 times, sl st in first dc to join—36 dc, 12 puffs, 24 ch. Rnd 10: Ch 2, dc in first dc, *puff in next ch, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 3 times, dc in next dc, puff in next ch, dc in next dc, ch 1**, dc in next dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first dc to join—36 dc, 12 puffs, 24 ch. Rnd 11: Ch 2, dc in first dc, *[ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 times, puff in next ch**, dc in next dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first dc to join—36 dc, 12 puffs, 24 ch. Rnd 12: Rep Rnd 10. Crochetscene

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Wide Open Spaces

Rnd 13: Rep Rnd 9. Rnd 14: Rep Rnd 8. Rnds 15–16: Rep Rnd 7.

Ribbing Turn to work perpendicular to sts, ch 5. Foundation Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across, sl st in first dc on Rnd 16, sl st in next ch on Rnd 16, turn—4 sc.

Row 1: Sc blo across, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo across, sl st in next dc and in next ch on Rnd 16, turn. Rep Rows 1–2 around bottom of hat. Last Row: Working through rem lps of beg ch and last row made, sl st across. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block.

Breadth Beanie Pattern

< 14 < 13 < 12

< 10 <9 <8

<7 <6

Stitch Key <5

= Adjustable ring <4

= chain (ch) <3 <2

<1

= slip stitch (sl st)

= double crochet (dc)

= puff

= patt rep

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Hook Up Your Home with Crochet Style!

9781632504159 | $22.99 US | 128 pages

From the foyer to the kitchen and every room in between, Quick Crochet for the Home has easy and fresh patterns you’ll love to stitch for all your living spaces. These 20 gorgeous projects not only stitch up in a flash, but also feature the clean lines and contemporary colors of today’s modern home. No crocheter’s home decor is complete without a little yarny goodness!

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Feminine shades, delicate stitches

Thread

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Gatsby Tee by Jill Hanratty A simple oversized tee silhouette is elevated by an allover lace pattern and a delightful attached scarf. Yarn Dream in Color Jilly. Page 80. < Bee’s Knees Beret by Anastasia Popova This delicate beret festooned with pineapple lace adds plenty of panache without weighing you down—perfect for someone you know who might be having a “bad hair” day. Yarn Mrs. Crosby Train Case. Page 78.

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Swanky Sweater by Natasha Robarge A diamond filet crochet stitch pattern merges beautifully with raglan lines in this lovely pullover. This versatile sweater moves easily from the croquet course to afternoon tea and beyond. Yarn Berroco Artisan. Page 83. < Gatsby Tee by Jill Hanratty see page 73.

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Swell Infinity Cowl by Suzanne Hirth Crochet broomstick lace is a nineteenth-century technique that uses a crochet hook and a broomstick or large-diameter knitting needle to combine large loop stitches and single crochet stitches. Explore this fascinating technique with this gradient cowl finished with a picot edge. Yarn HiKoo Trenzado (distributed by Skacel). Page 85. Speakeasy Shawl > by Annelies Baes This rectangular shawl combines power and softness with a delicate gray mohair background punctuated with bright dots. The edging gives the shawl structure, and the blue woven detail adds an unexpected playful effect. Yarn Rowan Kidsilk Haze. Page 86.

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BEE’S KNEES BERET Anastasia Popova

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2

3

4

Mrs. Crosby Train Case www.mrscrosbyplays.com

Getting Started Finished Size About 223⁄4" brim circumference, designed to fit with 1–3" negative ease.

Yarn Mrs. Crosby Train Case (55% superwash merino wool, 15% nylon, 30% outlast viscose; 425 yd [389 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): African grey, 1 hank. Hook Size D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge 3 V-sts and 3 ch-2 sps = 21⁄4" and 4 rnds = 21⁄2" in hat body. 3 V-sts and 3 ch-2 sps = 21⁄2" and 4 rnds = 11⁄4" in brim st patt.

Stitch Guide V-stitch (V-st): (Dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st; work V-st in ch-1 sp of V-st unless otherwise stated. Beginning V-stitch (beg V-st): Sl st in next ch-sp, ch 4, dc in same ch-sp. Brim st patt (multiple of 5 sts) Ch 30 for gauge swatch. Row 1: Dc in 5th ch from hook (4 sk ch count as first dc and ch 1), *ch 2, sk next 4 chs, V-st (see above) in next ch; rep from * across, turn—6 V-sts. Row 2: Beg V-st (see above), *ch 2, V-st in next V-st; rep from * across, turn. Rep Row 2 two times for patt.

Pattern BERET Make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1 throughout), (dc in ring, ch 1) 5 times, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—6 dc and ch-1 sps. Rnd 2: Beg V-st (see Stitch Guide), ch 1, 78 Crochetscene

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*V-st (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—6 V-sts. Rnd 3: Beg V-st, V-st in each ch-1 sp around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—12 V-sts. Rnd 4: Beg V-st, ch 1, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1**, V-st in next V-st (see Notes), ch 1; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—6 V-sts, 12 dc. Rnd 5: Beg V-st, ch 2, *5 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—6 V-sts, six 5-dc groups. Rnd 6: Beg V-st, ch 2, *dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 4 times, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—6 V-sts, 30 dc. Rnd 7: Beg V-st, ch 2, *sc in next dc, [ch 3, sc in next dc] 4 times, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—6 V-sts, 24 ch-3 sps. Rnd 8: Beg V-st, ch 2, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—6 V-sts, 18 ch-3 sps. Rnd 9: Beg V-st, ch 1, V-st in same sp as beg V-st, ch 2, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 2**, (V-st, ch 1, V-st) in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—12 V-sts, 12 ch-3 sps. Rnd 10: Beg V-st, *ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—12 V-sts, 6 ch-3 sps. Rnd 11: Beg V-st, ch 2, *7 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, V-st in ch-3 sp, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—18 V-sts, six 7-dc groups. Rnd 12: Beg V-st, ch 2, *dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 6 times**, [ch 2, V-st in next V-st] 3 times, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, [ch 2, V-st in next V-st] 2 times, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—18 V-sts, 42 dc. Rnd 13: Beg V-st, ch 2, *sc in next dc, [ch 3, sc in next dc] 6 times, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next V-st, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—12 V-sts, 36 ch-3 sps. Rnd 14: Beg V-st, ch 2, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 5 times, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, 7 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from *

5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—12 V-sts, 30 ch-3 sps, six 7-dc groups. Rnd 15: Beg V-st, ch 2, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 6 times, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—12 V-sts, 24 ch-3 sps, 42 dc. Rnd 16: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 5, dc in same ch-sp, ch 2, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 2, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next dc, [ch 3, sc in next dc] 6 times, ch 2**, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join—54 ch-3 sps. Rnd 17: Beg V-st, ch 1, V-st in same sp as beg V-st, ch 2, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 2, (V-st, ch 1, V-st) in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 5 times, ch 2**, (V-st, ch 1, V-st) in next ch-2 sp, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—42 ch-3 sps, 24 V-sts. Rnd 18: Beg V-st, *ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—30 ch-3 sps, 24 V-sts. Rnd 19: Beg V-st, ch 2, *5 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—18 ch-3 sps, 24 V-sts, twelve 5-dc groups. Rnd 20: Beg V-st, ch 2, *dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 4 times, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 1, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 4 times, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—12 ch-3 sps, 24 V-sts, 60 dc. Rnd 21: Beg V-st, ch 2, *sc in next dc, [ch 3, sc in next dc] 4 times, ch 2, dc in next V-st, ch 1, dc in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next dc, [ch 3, sc in next dc] 4 times, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—54 ch-3 sps, 12 V-sts. Rnd 22: Beg V-st, ch 2, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 2,


Reduced beret patt

< 2–4

< 24

<1 (Brim )

<2 3

2 <2 <2 1

< 20 < 19 < 18

< 18

7

<1

<1

6

5

<1

4

<1 < 13 < 12 < 11

< 10

<9

<8

<7 <6 <5

<4 <3

<2

Stitch Key = Adjustable ring

<1

= chain (ch) = slip stitch (sl st) = single crochet (sc)

= double crochet (dc)

V-st in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—36 ch-3 sps, 18 V-sts. Rnd 23: Beg V-st, ch 2, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 1**, V-st in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—24 ch-3 sps, 18 V-sts. Rnd 24: Ch 5 (counts as first dc and ch-2), *sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next V-st**, ch 1, dc in next V-st, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join—12 ch-3 sps, 6 V-sts.

Brim: Rnd 1: Ch 4, dc in sp created by sc join (counts as V-st), ch 2, *V-st in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, V-st in next Crochetscene

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ch-3 sp, ch 2**, V-st in next ch-1 sp, ch 2; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—24 V-sts. Rnd 2: Beg V-st, [ch 2, V-st in next V-st] around, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—24 V-sts. Rnds 3–4: Rep Rnd 26. Fasten off at end of last rnd.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block.

GATSBY TEE Jill Hanratty

1

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3

GAUGE SWATCH:

4

PLUS SIZE

Dream in Color Jilly www.dreamincoloryarn.com

Getting Started Finished Size 42 (46, 50, 54, 58)" bust circumference. Sample shown measures 42", modeled with 7" ease. Yarn Dream in Color Jilly (100% superwash merino; 440 yd [402 m]/4 oz [113 g]; ): #815 cedar creek, 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) skeins. Hook Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle; st markers (m). Gauge 4 cls and 6 rnds = 4" in cl patt.

Notes The tee is worked in the round to the underarms, then fronts and back are worked in rows. The right neck shaping begins to shape the attached scarf. Once shoulders have been joined, scarf is attached across back neck before extending freely.

Stitch Guide Edge cluster (edge cl): Ch 3, tr in tr just made. Do not turn work. Beginning cluster (beg cl): Ch 3, yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull

80 Crochetscene

up a lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times—2 lps on hook. Center cluster (center cl): *Yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times; rep from * 3 times—6 lps on hook. End cluster (end cl): Yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, yo, draw through all 5 lps on hook, ch 3—1 lp on hook. Open cluster (open cl): Beg cl in indicated st, sk next 2 ch-3 sps, end cl in indicated st. Ending treble (end tr): Yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, yo, draw through all 2 lps on hook. Ending treble cluster (end tr cl): *Yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times; rep from * once, yo, draw through all 3 lps on hook. Beginning treble cluster (beg tr cl): Ch 4, yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times—2 lps on hook. Cluster lace patt in rows (cl patt) (multiple of 4 edge cl + 2 edge cl)

2017

Set-up row: Ch 4, tr in 4th ch from hook (counts as first edge cl), work 9 more edge cl (see above), turn—10 edge cl. Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, (sc, beg cl (see above)) in first tr, *sk next ch-3 sp, center cl (see above) in next tr, sk next ch-3 sp**, (end cl (see above), sc, beg cl) in next tr, sk next 2 ch-3 sps, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in next tr; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, (end cl, sc) in last ch, turn—3 center cl, 2 open cl. Row 2: (WS) Ch 4, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl; rep from * across, end tr (see above) in last sc, turn—4 open cl. Row 3: Ch 1, (sc, beg cl) in first tr, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next open cl, center cl in next sc, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next open cl; rep from * across, (end cl, sc) in top of last cl, turn—2 center cl, 3 open cl. Row 4: Rep Row 2—4 open cl. Row 5: Ch 1, (sc, beg cl) in first tr, *center cl in next sc, [(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl] 2 times; rep from * across, center cl in last sc, (end cl, sc) in top of last cl, turn—3 center cl, 2 open cl. Rep Rows 2–5 for patt.

Pattern BODY Set-up rnd: Ch 4, tr in 4th ch from hook (counts as first edge cl), work 83 (91, 99, 107, 115) edge cl (see Stitch Guide), sl st in first ch to join, being careful not to twist piece, turn—84 (92, 100, 108, 116) edge cl. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, (sc, beg cl [see Stitch Guide]) in first tr, *sk next ch-3 sp, center

cl (see Stitch Guide) in next tr, sk next ch-3 sp, (end cl [see Stitch Guide], sc, beg cl) in next tr, sk next 2 ch-3 sps**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in next tr; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, end tr cl (see Stitch Guide) in first tr, turn—21 (23, 25, 27, 29) center cl, 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) open cl. Rnd 2: (WS) Ch 1, (sc, beg cl) in first cl, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl; rep from * across, end tr cl in first cl, turn— 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) open cl. Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc, beg cl) in first cl, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl, center cl in next sc**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, end tr cl in first cl, turn—21 (23, 25, 27, 29) center cl, 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) open cl. Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 2—42 (46, 50, 54, 58) open cl. Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc, beg cl) in first cl, *center cl in next sc, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, end tr cl in first cl, turn. Rnds 6–20: Rep Rnds 2–5 three times, then work Rnds 2–4 once more. Rnd 21: (RS) Ch 1, (sc, beg cl) in first cl, *center cl in next sc, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, end cl in first cl, sl st in first sc, place marker (pm) in first sc, turn.

Divide for back and front: BACK: Beg working in rows. Row 1: (WS) Ch 4, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) cl, end tr in next sc, pm in same sc, turn—20 (22, 24, 26, 28) open cl, 1 partial cl at each end. Row 2: Work Row 5 of cl patt (see Stitch Guide) across. Rows 3–16 (16, 20, 20, 20): Rep Rows 2—5 of cl patt 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) times, then work Rows 2–3 of cl patt once more—21 (23, 25, 27, 29) cl: 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) center cl, 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) open cl. Fasten off. With RS facing, pm in 7th (7th, 9th, 9th, 11th) cl from each armhole edge.

FRONT: Beg working in rows. Row 1: With WS facing, join yarn with sl st in marked st, work Row 1 of back to next marked st—20 (22, 24, 26, 28) open cl, 1 partial cl at each end. Rows 2–7: Work Rows 3–5 of cl patt, then Rows 2–4 of cl patt once more.

Sizes 50 (54, 58)" only: Rows 8–11: Work Row 5 of cl patt, then Rows 2–4 once more.

All sizes:

Shape left front neck: Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, (sc, beg cl) in first cl, *center cl in next sc, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of


Cluster Lace in Rows

Stitch Key = chain (ch)

rep for patt

<5

= slip stitch (sl st) = single crochet (sc)

4>

= treble (tr)

<3 2>

= edge cl <1

= beg cl set-up row >

= center cl Cluster Lace in Rnds = end cl rep for patt

<5

= open cl

4>

= end tr cl <3

= beg tr cl 2>

= patt rep

<1 set-up rnd >

22" 56 cm

8¾" 22 cm

2½" 14" 6.5 cm 35.5 cm 10¾ (10¾, 13¼, 13¼,13¼)" 27.5 (27.5, 33.5, 33.5, 33.5) cm

9" 23 cm

7 (9, 7, 9, 7)" 18 (23, 18, 23, 18) cm 7 (7, 9, 9, 11)" 18 (18, 23, 23, 28) cm

body

Join front and back shoulder:

42 (46, 50, 54, 58)" 106.5 (117, 127, 137, 147.5) cm

next cl] 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) times; rep from * to **, (end cl, sc) in top of next cl, turn—5 (5, 6, 6, 7) center cl, 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) open cl. Row 2: Rep Row 2 of cl patt—9 (9, 11, 11, 13) open cl, 1 partial cl at each end. Row 3: Ch 1, (sc, beg cl) in first cl, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl, center cl in

Row 5: Ch 1, (sc, beg cl) in first cl, *center cl in next sc**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next 2 cl; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, end tr in last cl, turn—5 (5, 6, 6, 7) center cl, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) open cl rem. Row 6: Rep Row 4—8 (8, 10, 10, 12) open cl, 1 partial cl at armhole edge rem. Rows 7–8: Rep Rows 3–4—7 (7, 9, 9, 11) open cl, 1 partial cl at armhole edge rem. Cont even in cl patt as foll: Row 9: Work Row 5 of cl patt—7 (7, 9, 9, 11) cl rem: 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) center cl, 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) open cl for left shoulder. Rows 10–12: Work Rows 2–4 of cl patt.

next sc**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, end tr in last cl, turn. Row 4: Beg tr cl (see Stitch Guide) in first cl, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl; rep from * across, end tr in last sc, turn—9 (9, 11, 11, 13) open cl, 1 partial cl at armhole edge rem.

Hold front and back shoulders with WS tog, armhole edges lined up. Row 13: With RS of front shoulder facing, ch 4, sl st in first sc of back, ch 3, (sc, beg cl) in top of first cl of front, *center cl in next sc of front**, (end tr, sl st in top of next cl of back, ch 3, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl of front, (end tr, sl st in next cl of back, ch 3, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl of front; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, (end tr, sl st in next marked cl of back, ch 3, sc) in top of last cl of front, ch 4, sl st in next sc of back. Fasten off.

Shape right front neck: Row 1: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in top of next (3rd, next, 3rd, next) cl after last left front cl, (ch 1, sc, beg cl) in same cl, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next Crochetscene

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Reduced Right Neck Shaping* *For sizes 42 (50, 58)", begin right neck shaping as shown. For sizes 46 (54)", begin right neck shaping in 3rd cl from left neck shaping.

12 > < 11

Reduced Left Neck Shaping 10 > 12 >

<9

< 11

8> 10 >

<7

<9 6>

8> <5 <7

4>

6> <3 <5

2>

4> <1 <3 2> <1

Stitch Key = chain (ch) = slip stitch (sl st) = single crochet (sc) = treble (tr) Reduced Scarf Tip = edge cl

17 > < 16

= beg cl 15 >

= center cl

< 14

= end cl

13 > < 12

= open cl 11 >

= end tr cl

< 10

= beg tr cl 9>

= patt rep

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Rows 5–14: Rep Rows 1–4 two times, then work Rows 1–2 once more—1 center cl, 1 open cl rem. Row 15: Ch 4, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl, end tr cl in top of last cl, turn— 1 open cl, 1 partial cl at left edge rem. Row 16: Beg cl in first cl, center cl in next sc, (end cl, sc) in top of last cl, turn— 1 center cl rem. Row 17: Ch 4, end tr cl in top of last cl, turn—1 partial cl rem. Do not fasten off.

FINISHING Scarf and neckline edging: cl, center cl in next sc**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, (end cl, sc) in in top of marked cl, turn—5 (5, 6, 6, 7) center cl, 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) open cl. Row 2: Rep Row 2 of cl patt—9 (9, 11, 11, 13) open cl, 1 partial cl at each end. Row 3: Ch 7 (counts as cl throughout), (sc, beg cl) in top of first cl, *center cl in next sc, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, (end cl, sc) in top of last cl, turn—5 (5, 6, 6, 7) center cl, 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) open cl, 1 partial cl at neck edge. Row 4: Ch 4, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl; rep from * across, working last rep in 4th ch of tch, turn—10 (10, 12, 12, 14) open cl, 1 partial cl at each end. Row 5: Ch 7, (sc, beg cl) in top of first cl, *center cl in next sc**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next 2 cl; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, (end cl, sc) in last cl, turn— 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) center cl, 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) open cl. Row 6: Rep Row 4—11 (11, 13, 13, 15) open cl, 1 partial cl at each end. Rows 7–12: Rep Rows 3–6, then work Rows 3–4 once more—14 (14, 16, 16, 18) open cl, 1 partial cl at each end.

Join front and back shoulder: Hold front and back shoulders with WS tog, armhole edges lined up. Row 13: With RS of front shoulder facing, ch 7, (sc, beg cl) in top of first cl, [center cl in next sc, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next 2 cl] 4 times, center cl in next sc, beg shoulder join, (end tr, sl st in marked cl of back, ch 3, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl of front, pm in last sc made for beg of scarf, *(end tr, sl st in next cl of back, ch 3, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl of front, center cl in next sc of front, (end tr, sl st in next cl of back, ch 3, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl of front; rep from * across, center cl in last sc of front, (end tr, sl st in last cl of back, ch 3, sc) in top of last cl of front, ch 4, sl st in last sc of back. Fasten off.

SCARF

Note: Scarf will be joined across back neck edge before it is free flowing.

Row 1: With WS of front facing, join yarn in marked sc for beg of scarf, ch 4, sl st in top of next cl of back neck edge, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl of scarf, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl of scarf; rep from * across, working last rep in 4th ch of tch, turn—8 open cl, 1 partial cl at each end. Row 2: Work Row 5 of cl patt—5 center cl, 4 open cl. Row 3: Ch 4, sl st in top of next cl of back neck, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl of scarf, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl of scarf; rep from * across, end tr in last sc, turn—8 open cl, 1 partial cl at each end. Row 4: Work Row 3 of cl patt—4 center cl, 5 open cl. Row 5: Rep Row 3. Rows 6–14 (18, 14, 18, 14): Rep Rows 2–5 two (three, two, three, two) times, then work Row 2 once more. Row 15 (19, 15, 19, 15): Ch 4, sl st in next row of left front, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl of scarf, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl of scarf; rep from * across, end tr in last sc, turn. Row 16 (20, 16, 20, 16): Work Row 3 of cl patt. Row 17 (21, 17, 21, 17): Rep Row 15. Row 18 (22, 18, 22, 18): Work Row 5 of cl patt. Rows 19 (23, 19, 23, 19)–34 (38, 38, 42, 38): Rep Rows 2–5 of cl patt 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) times.

Ch 1, sc in top of first cl, *ch 3, sc in next row-end; rep from * around, ch 3, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Armhole edging: With RS facing, join yarn in center of underarm, sc in same st, *ch 3, sc in next row-end; rep from * around, ch 3, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

SWANKY SWEATER Natasha Robarge

1

2

3

4

Berroco Artisan www.berroco.com

Scarf Tip: Row 1: (WS) Ch 4, *(end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl; rep from * across to last cl, end tr cl in top of last cl, turn—8 open cl, 1 partial cl at left edge rem. Row 2: Beg cl in first cl, *center cl in next sc**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next 2 cl; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next cl, (end cl, sc) in top of last cl, turn—4 center cl, 4 open cl. Row 3: Rep Row 1—1 open cl dec’d. Row 4: Beg cl in first cl, *center cl in next sc**, (end cl, sc, beg cl) in top of next 2 cl; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, (end cl, sc) in top of last cl, turn—4 center cl, 3 open cl rem.

Getting Started Finished Size 341⁄2 (37, 39, 41, 43)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 341⁄2", modeled with 1⁄2" ease. Yarn Berroco Artisan (80% merino wool, 20% silk; 123 yd [112 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #6007 gray, 6 (8, 9, 9, 10) skeins. Hook Size H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge 15 sts and 9 rows = 4" in main patt, blocked.

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Stitch Guide

Pattern

Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, cont in patt as est to last ch-1 sp, dc in last ch-1 sp, 3 dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn—69 (77, 85) sts. Row 2: Sl st in first 3 dc, ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 5 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 5 dc**, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sk next dc, dc in next dc, turn, leaving last dc and tch unworked—63 (71, 79) sts rem.

Sizes 37 (41)" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, dc in 5th ch from hook, *ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next 7 ch; rep from * across, ch 1, sk next ch, dc in last 2 ch, turn—69 (77) sts; 81⁄2 (91⁄2) patt reps. Row 2: Ch 4, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 5 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in top of tch, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, *dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp**, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 2 dc; rep from * across, dc in next dc, dc in top of tch, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next dc, *dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 2 dc; rep from * across, dc in next 2 dc, dc in top of tch, turn. Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *dc in next 2 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * across, dc in next dc, dc in top of tch, turn. Row 7: Ch 3, dc in next dc, *dc in next 2 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc; rep from * across, dc in next 2 dc, dc in top of tch, turn. Row 8: Ch 4, sk next dc, dc in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, rep from * across, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in top of tch, turn. Row 9: Ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 5 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in last ch-1 sp, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Rows 10–24: Rep Rows 2–9 once, then work Rows 2–8 once more.

Shape armholes:

BACK

Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, cont in patt as est to last ch-1

Ch 65 (69, 73, 77, 81). 84 Crochetscene

Shape armholes:

2017

1¾" 4.5 cm

front & back

17¼ (18½, 19½, 20½, 21½)" 44 (47, 49.5, 52, 54.5) cm 4½" 11.5 cm

12" 30.5 cm 7½ (8½, 9¼, 10¼, 11)" 19 (21.5, 23.5, 26, 28) cm

Join with single crochet (sc-join): Place slipknot on hook, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo and pull up a lp, yo and draw through both lps on hook. Main patt (multiple of 8 sts + 1) Ch 25 for gauge swatch. Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, dc in 5th ch from hook, dc in next 6 ch, *ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next 7 ch; rep from * across, dc in last ch, turn—25 sts; 3 patt reps. Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1 throughout), sk next dc, dc in next 5 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 5 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across, ending with last dc in top of tch, turn. Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, *dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, *dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 2 dc; rep from * across, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 2 dc, *dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 2 dc; rep from * across, dc in top of tch, turn. Row 6: Ch 3, *dc in next 2 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * across, turn. Row 7: Ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, *dc in next 2 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc; rep from * across, dc in top of tch, turn. Row 8: Ch 4, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc; rep from * to end, turn. Row 9: Ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 5 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 5 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Rep Rows 2–9 for patt.

8¾" 22 cm

sleeve

13 (14, 15¼, 16¼, 17¼)" 33 (35.5, 38.5, 41.5, 44) cm

The sweater is worked from the bottom up in pieces. The pieces are joined with sc on the right side for decorative seams.

Row 1: (RS) Work Row 1 of main patt (see Stitch Guide)—65 (73, 81) sts; 8 (9, 10) patt reps. Rows 2–24: Work Rows 2–9 of main patt 2 times, then work Rows 2–8 once more.

10¾" 27.5 cm 7½ (8½, 9¼, 10¼, 11)" 19 (21.5, 23.5, 26, 28) cm

Sizes 341⁄2 (39, 43)" only:

Notes

8¾ (9¾, 11, 12, 13)" 22 (25, 28, 30.5, 33) cm

sp, dc in last ch-1 sp, 3 dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn—73 (81) sts. Row 2: Sl st in first 3 dc, ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 5 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across, sk next dc, dc in next dc, turn, leaving last dc and tch unworked—67 (75) sts rem.

All sizes:

Raglan shaping: Row 1 (dec): (RS) Ch 3, sk next dc, cont in patt across to last 2 sts, sk next st, dc in top of tch—2 sts dec’d. Rep last row 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) more times—33 sts rem. Fasten off.

FRONT Ch 68 (72, 76, 80, 84). Work as for back through Row 1 of raglan shaping—61 (65, 69, 73, 77) sts rem. Rep Row 1 of raglan shaping 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) more times—41 sts rem.

Right front: Sizes 341⁄2 (39, 43)" only: Next row: (WS) Ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 5 dc, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, turn—7 sts rem.

Sizes 37 (41)" only: Next row: (WS) Ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, sk next dc, dc in next dc, turn—7 sts rem.


Main Pattern <9 8>

rep for patt

<7 6>

3 sts of left sleeve, ***ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; rep from *** around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. Note: If desired, rep neckline trim to reduce size of neck opening. Fasten off. Filet hem and sleeve trim: With RS facing, join yarn in any dc after a ch-1 sp, ch 4, sk next dc, *dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block.

<5 4> <3 2> <1

8-st patt rep

Stitch Key = chain (ch)

All sizes:

Shape sleeve: = double crochet (dc)

= patt rep

All sizes: Rep Row 1 of raglan shaping 3 times—2 dc rem. Fasten off.

Left front: Sizes 341⁄2 (39, 43)" only:

Row 1 (inc): (RS) Ch 3, dc in first dc, cont in patt across to last st, 2 dc in top of tch, turn—2 sts inc’d. Rep last row every RS row 7 more times, then work 1 more WS row in patt as est, integrating new sts into patt—49 (53, 57, 61, 65) sts. Rows 1–2: Rep Rows 1–2 of back armhole shaping for your size—47 (51, 55, 59, 63) sts rem.

Shape raglan:

Sizes 37 (41)" only:

Raglan, side, and sleeve seams: Hold pieces with WS tog. *With RS facing, sc-join (see Stitch Guide) yarn at neck edge at beg of raglan seam. Work 1 sc per sp created by dc/tch row-ends, inserting hook through sp of both pieces, lengthen lps between sc to about 1⁄3" length to keep fabric from puckering and work toward underarm. Fasten off. Rep from * for rem raglan seams. Join side and sleeve seams in the same manner, beg at the center of the underarm and working toward the bottom edge and sleeve cuff edge respectively. Filet neckline trim: With RS facing, join yarn at neck edge to end of left front raglan seam, ch 4, dc in next dc, *ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; rep from * around to last 4 sts before back raglan seam, **ch 1, sk next st, tr in next st; rep from ** across rem sleeve sts, back neckline, and first

All sizes: Complete as for right front. Fasten off.

SLEEVES Ch 33 (37, 41, 45, 49) sts.

Sizes 341⁄2 (39, 43)" only: Row 1: (RS) Work Row 1 of main patt— 33 (41, 49) sts; 4 (5, 6) patt reps. Rows 2–12: Work Rows 2–9 of main patt once, then work Rows 2–4 once more.

Sizes 37 (41)" only: Row 1: (RS) Work Row 1 of back—37 (45) sts; 41⁄2 (51⁄2) patt reps. Rows 2–12: Work Rows 2–9 of back once, then work Rows 2–4 once more.

Suzanne Hirth

1

2

Rep Row 1 of back raglan shaping 15 (17, 19, 21, 23) times—17 sts rem. Fasten off.

FINISHING

3

4

Hikoo Trenzado (distributed by Skacel) www.skacelknitting.com

Shape armhole:

Next row: With WS facing, join yarn with sl st in first ch-1 sp from left armhole edge, ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 5 dc, sk next dc, dc in top of tch, turn—7 sts rem. Next row: With WS facing, join yarn with sl st in 7th dc (center dc of 2nd 3-dc group) from left armhole edge, ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, sk next dc, dc in top of tch, turn—7 sts rem.

SWELL INFINITY COWL

Getting Started Finished Size 52" circumference and 51⁄2" tall. Yarn Hikoo Trenzado (distributed by Skacel) (50% merino, 50% merino superwash; 109 yd [100 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #1210 river rocks (A), #1209 concrete angel (B), #1205 fossil (C), #1200 pearl (D), 1 ball each. Hook Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Size 35 (19 mm) knitting needle: 36" circular; large point protector; yarn needle. Gauge Four 5-st groups = 41⁄4" and 6 rows = 41⁄2" in broomstick lace patt.

Notes Scarf is worked flat, then seamed to form a loop. Broomstick lace is worked with RS facing at all times. To adjust circumference, add or subtract multiples of 5 stitches (= about 1"). To change color, work with old color to last yarn over of last stitch, then yarn over with new color to complete last stitch.

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Stitch Guide Broomstick loop stitch (bls): Insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, slide lp onto needle, making sure not to twist lp. Locking stitch (locking st): Place first 5 lps from needle onto hook, pull up lps to ensure even height, yo and draw through all 5 lps maintaining lp height, ch 1 to lock in lps. Picot: Ch 3, inserting hook from back to front, sl st in top of last dc.

Pattern COWL With A, leaving a 12" tail, fsc 245. Do not turn work. Note: Place point protector on one end of circular knitting needle to prevent sts from sliding off end of needle. Row 1: (RS) Lengthen lp on hook and place on needle (counts as first bls), *working from left to right, bls (see Stitch Guide) blo in each st across—245 lps. Do not turn work. Row 2: (RS) Locking st (see Stitch Guide), ch 1, 5 sc in same 5-lp group, *place next 5 lps from needle onto hook, pull up lps to ensure even height, yo and draw through all 5 lps, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook (first sc complete), 4 sc in same 5-lp group; rep from * across—forty-nine 5-st groups. Do not turn work. Rows 3–4: Rep Rows 1–2, changing to B on last row (see Notes), leaving a 12" tail. Rows 5–8: With B, rep Rows 3–4 two times, changing to C on last row, leaving a 12" tail. Rows 9–10: With C, rep Rows 3–4, changing to D on last row, leaving a 12" tail. Rows 10–11: With D, rep Rows 3–4. Do not turn work.

in next sc (center sc of 5-sc group) joining scarf ends, *sk next 4 sc, (3 dc, picot, 3 dc) in next sc (center sc of next 5-sc group); rep from * across, sl st in top of first dc to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING With RS tog, match up row-ends. Working from the bottom up, using tail A, insert hook through first and last fsc, sl st to join, *ch 3, sl st in first and last st of next sc row to join**; rep from * once, with tail B; rep from * to ** 2 times, with tail C; rep from * to ** once, with tail D; rep from * to once. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

SPEAKEASY SHAWL Annelies Baes

1

2

3

4

Rowan Kidsilk Haze www.knitrowan.com

Edging:

Getting Started

With RS facing, ch 3, sk first 2 sc of last row, (3 dc, picot [see Stitch Guide], 3 dc)

Finished Size 211⁄2" wide and 60" long. Yarn Rowan Kidsilk Haze (70% mohair, 30% silk; 230 yd [210 m]/.88 oz [25 g]; ): #664 steel (A), 4 balls, #582 trance (B), #606 candy girl (C), #597 jelly (D), #596 marmalade (E), #663 essence (F), 1 ball each. Hooks Size D/3 (3.25 mm), G/6 (4 mm), 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge 1 blocked motif = 3" square from corner to corner with G and 7 hooks.

Notes The shawl is composed of 102 motifs. Motifs are joined on second round. Shawl is made up of 17 rows with six motifs each. B, C, D, E, and F are used for the inner rounds of the motif, and the outside is worked in A. Motifs can be combined randomly or as shown in diagram. If choosing to combine randomly, make 86 Crochetscene

2017

Key =B

=C

=D

=E

=F

=A

sure all five colors are used at least once in each row.

Stitch Guide FIRST MOTIF With G hook and selected color, ch 18, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, (sc in ring) 32 times, sl st in first sc to join—32 sc. Fasten off. Rnd 2: With A, sl st to join in first sc, ch 4 (counts as first tr), tr in next 7 sc, ch 9, *tr in next 8 sc, ch 9; rep from * 2 times, sl st in top of beg ch-4 to join. Fasten off.


1-SIDE JOIN MOTIF With G hook and selected color, ch 18, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, (sc in ring) 32 times, sl st in first sc to join—32 sc. Fasten off. Rnd 2: With A, sl st to join in first sc, ch 4 (counts as first tr), tr in next 7 sc, [ch 9, tr in next 8 sc] 2 times, ch 4, sl st in indicated corner ch-9 sp on prev motif, ch 4, tr in next 4 sc on current motif, sl st bet 4th and 5th tr on prev motif, tr in next 4 sc on current motif, ch 4, sl st in next corner ch-9 sp on prev motif, ch 4, sl st in top of beg ch-4 to join. Fasten off.

2-SIDE JOIN MOTIF With G hook and selected color, ch 18, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, (sc in ring) 32 times, sl st in first sc to join—32 sc. Fasten off. Rnd 2: With A, sl st to join in first sc, ch 4 (counts as first tr), tr in next 3 sc on current motif, sl st bet 4th and 5th tr on prev motif, tr in next 4 sc on current motif, ch 4, sl st in indicated corner ch-9 sp on prev motif, ch 4, tr in next 8 sc on current motif, ch 9, tr in next 8 sc, ch 4, sl st in next corner ch-9 sp on prev motif, ch 4, sl st bet 4th and 5th tr on prev motif, tr in next 4 sc on current motif, ch 4, sl st in next corner

ch-9 sp on prev motif, ch 4, sl st in top of beg ch-4 to join. Fasten off.

Pattern SHAWL Work 102 motifs following assembly and stitch diagrams.

Cord With size D hook and B, make a chain 83⁄4 yd long. Wrap cord around ch-1 sps on Rnd 2 of Edging. Do not pull tight. Secure both cord ends. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

Border Rnd 1: With size 7 hook and A, sl st to join in upper right corner ch-9 sp, sc in same sp as join, *ch 7, sl st bet 4th and 5th tr of first 8-tr group, ch 7, [sc around joining sl st, ch 7, sl st bet 4th and 5th tr of next 8-tr group, ch 7] across to corner**, sc in corner ch-9 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as first dc and ch-1), dc in same sc as join, *[ch 1, ([dc, ch 1] 4 times, dc) in next ch-7 sp] across to next corner, ch 1**, ([dc, ch 1] 2 times, dc) in next sc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, dc in same sc as first 2 dc, ch 1, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, [ch 3, sc in next dc] around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

2

2

1

1

1

1st

Key = chain (ch) = slip stitch (sl st) = single crochet (sc) 2

2

= double crochet (dc) 1

2

1

1

= treble crochet (tr) = sl st location indicator 1st = First motif

<

1

= 1-side join motif

2

= 2-side join motif

Border

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Apartment Living Crochet for your trendy pad

Blanket Statement by Erin Black see page 105 Lofty Pouf by Anne Weil Make this fabulous pouf in just an hour. Your hand becomes the hook with this chubby yarn, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be amazed at the ease and speed with which you can make this gorgeous statement piece. Yarn Cascade Yarns Mondo. Page 96.

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Learn How to Arm Crochet page 96


Head Over Hexi Headboard by Vickie Howell Hexagons combine to make a bold, modern headboard that’s super-easy to install. Customize the colors to your décor—make it subtle or make it bold. Yarn Patons Classic Wool Bulky. Page 97.

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Adorn your wall with these boho-inspired necklaces Grab one to wear before you head out the door


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#

$

1. No. 1 Fan Necklace by Mary Jane Hall Inspired by bib necklaces from the late sixties, this expansive necklace is dotted with hippie-chic beads. Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen. Page 98.

2. Sphere Necklace by Mary Jane Hall This necklace embraces favorite seventies elements: wood beads, crochet, and macramé. Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen. Page 98.

% 3. Presto Necklace by Vickie Howell Whip up a wardrobe of these fast necklaces for an instant wardrobe pick-me-up. Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen. Page 99.

4. Medallion Necklace by Mary Jane Hall A circle frames a crocheted medallion in this statement necklace. Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen. Page 99.

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5. Tassels Necklace by Mary Jane Hall Influenced by seventies styles, the circles, tassels, and star motif fit right in with twentyfirst-century Bohemian fashions. Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen and Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread Classic 10 (distributed by Coats and Clark). Page 100. interweavecrochet.com

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Apartment Living

Basket Cases by Meredith Crawford These color-dipped baskets are perfect for stashing everything from your current WIP to your forks and spoons. Great for beginners, this project can be customized to your home dĂŠcor. Yarn Premier Yarns MacraMade. Page 101. Pillow Popper > by Sue Perez Simple motifs combine into a surprisingly intricate-looking pattern, with tiny accent rounds that twinkle like stars. The hardest part about making this pillow is choosing what colors to use! Yarn Lion Brand Yarns Modern Baby and Bonbons. Page 102.

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Home Grown Plant Cozy by Vickie Howell This plant cozy is just the right size to tuck in a bit of greenery for your living space. Yarn Wool and the Gang Jersey Be Good. Page 105. Blanket Statement > by Erin Black Gradient striping in two colors combines with undulating crochet cables to create a gorgeous sunrise-inspired throw. Made with super-chunky yarn and oversize tassels, this blanket is a modern piece that will inspire lots of comfy couch cuddles. Yarn Red Heart Grande. Page 105

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Pattern POUF Rnd 1: With 2 strands yarn held tog, ch 3, sl st in first ch to form a ring. Rnd 2: Ch 2, (sc in ring) 7 times, place marker (pm), move marker as work progresses (see Notes)—7 sts, 2 chs. Rnd 3: Sc in each ch of beg ch-2, 2 sc blo around—16 sts. Rnd 4: [Sc blo in next st, 2 sc blo in next st] around—24 sts. Rnd 5: [Sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in next st] around—32 sts. Rnd 6: [Sc blo in next 3 sts, 2 sc blo in next st] around—40 sts.

LOFTY POUF

Photo 1

Anne Weil

1

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3

4

Cascade Yarns Mondo www.cascadeyarns.com

Getting Started Finished size 72" in circumference and 15" tall.

Yarn Cascade Yarns Mondo (50% alpaca,

Photo 2

50% wool; 58 yd [53 m]/14.12 oz [400 g]; ): #8010 ecru, 6 skeins. Hook None. Notions Cotton quilt batting in natural wrapped around polyester batting to desired size (other option: use queen-size faux-down quilt same color as yarn). Gauge 3 sts = 41⁄2" and 3 rnds = 51⁄2".

Notes Single crochets are worked in back loops only unless otherwise stated. When working the technique of arm crochet, all stitches are worked the same as if you were using a hook, but you will be using your hand in place of the hook (see photos 1-3). The pouf is made in a continuous spiral (see photo 4). You will not join rounds at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round, moving the marker with each round as you progress through the pattern. To stuff pouf: Wrap natural quilting batting around polyester batting to reach desired size or try using an alternative down comforter or old blanket in color of yarn. Adjust for desired shape.

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Photo 3

Rnds 7–9: Sc blo around. Rnd 10: [Sc blo in next 3 sts, sc2tog blo] around—32 sts. Rnd 11: [Sc blo in next 2 sts, sc2tog blo] around—24 sts. Rnd 12: [Sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo] around—16 sts. Stuff pouf (see Notes). Rnds 13–14: Sc2tog blo around—4 sts at end of last rnd. Fasten off, leaving 8" tail.

FINISHING Weave tail through last rnd to close top and knot to secure. Weave in ends.

Photo 4


Stitch Key = full motif B/A

HEAD OVER HEXI HEADBOARD

= full motif C/A

Vickie Howell

1

2

3

4

1

2

3

4

= half motif B/A

= half motif C/A

Patons Classic Wool Bulky www.yarnspirations.com/patons

Getting Started Finished Size 321⁄2" tall and 60" wide. Yarn Patons Classic Wool Bulky (100% wool; 78 yd [71 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #89008 aran (A), 13 balls, #89229 natural mix (B), 2 balls, #89201 geyser blue (C), 1 ball. Hook Size N/P-15 (10 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain required gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge 7 dc = 31⁄4" and Rnd 1 = 41⁄2". Motif = 81⁄2" wide (measured bet flat sides) and 10" tall (measured bet points).

Notes Full motifs are worked in joined, unturned rounds. Half motifs are worked in both joined, unturned rounds and turned rows. Motifs will be joined after all have been completed. To change colors, always change to new color on last yarn over of last stitch before color change.

Pattern HEADBOARD Full Motif (make 20 with B/A; make 6 with C/A) Foundation rnd: With first color, ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 6 (counts as tr and ch-2), (tr in ring, ch 2) 11 times, change color to A (see Notes), sl st in 4th ch of beg ch-6 to join—12 tr, 12 ch-2 sps. Fasten off B.

Rnd 2: With A, sl st in next ch-sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same ch-sp, *3 dc in next ch-sp**, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—42 dc, 6 ch-2 sps. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc around, working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-sp around, sl st in first sc to join—54 sc, 6 ch-2 sps. Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, working (sc, ch 1, sc) in each ch-sp around, sl st in first sc to join—66 sc, 6 ch-1 sps. Fasten off.

Half Motif (make 2 each with B/A and C/A) Foundation rnd: With first color, ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring. Row 1: Ch 6 (counts as tr and ch-2), (tr in center ring, ch 2) 4 times, change color to A (see Notes), tr in ring, turn—6 tr, 5 ch-2 sps. Fasten off first color. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in first sp, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next sp, 3 dc in next sp; rep from * 1 time, turn—17 dc, 2 ch-2 sps. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next 5 dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next sp, sc in next 7 dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next sp, sc in next 5 dc, do not turn, sc in same st as last sc to form corner, working across straight edge, 2 sc around end dc, 3 sc around next tr, 3 sc in center ring, 3 sc around next tr, 2 sc around next dc, sc in same st as first sc, sl st in beg ch to join. Rnd 4: Ch 1, *sc in each sc to corner sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in sp; rep from *, ** sc to corner, 2 sc in corner st; rep from **, sl st in beg ch to join, turn.

Row 5: 2 sc in first st, sc across to opposite corner, 2 sc in corner sc across, turn. Row 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc. Fasten off.

Assembly With RS facing, whipstitch motifs tog as shown in diagram.

Edging Join A with sl st in any corner. Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc around, working 2 sc in each ch-sp, sl st in first sc to join. Rnds 2–3: Rep Rnd 1. Fasten off at end of last rnd.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to shape. Hang as desired using hooks, photo clips, or small nails.

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m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): # 2275 linen, 1 ball. Hook Size D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions 2" metal ring; forty .5 mm multicolored wood beads; large-eye sewing needle. Gauge 9 dc in Row 4 = 1"; 6 dc in Row 6 = 1"; Rows 2–6 = 11⁄2".

Notes Row 7 beads are attached as row is worked. Row 5 beads will be sewn on after all crocheting is complete.

Stitch Guide Beaded chain (bch): Slide bead up to hook, yo, draw through lp on hook.

Pattern

NO. 1 FAN NECKLACE

PENDANT

2

3

4

Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen www.classiceliteyarns.com

Getting Started Finished Size 51⁄2" wide across pendant and 14" long.

Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen (35% linen,

<3

<2

<4

<6

35% wool, 30% baby alpaca; 137 yd [125

Border and Neck Chain With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in end of Row 7, sc in end of same row, working in row-ends, work 6 sc evenly spaced across to row 3, ch 145 or to desired length, sl st in end of Row 3 on opposite side of pendant, sc in same row-end, working in row-ends, work 6 sc evenly spaced across to row 7. Fasten off.

FINISHING With RS facing, use sewing needle and yarn to sew beads in ch-1 sps in Row 5 using dc to anchor beads in place. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

<7

1

<5

Mary Jane Hall

Rnd 1: Join yarn with sl st to metal ring, 64 sc around ring, sl st in first sc to join—64 sc. Note: Cont working in turned rows. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 32 sc, leaving rem sc unworked, turn—33 sc. Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1 throughout), sk next sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc; rep from * across, turn—17 dc, 16 ch-1 sps. Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), *2 dc in next ch-1 sp**, dc in next dc; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-4, turn—49 dc. Row 5: Ch 4, sk next dc, dc in next dc,

*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc; rep from * across, turn—25 dc, 24 ch-1 sps. Row 6: Ch 3, dc in each sp and st across, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-4, turn—49 dc. Cut yarn, leaving 6-ft length, do not fasten off. Row 7: Thread 16 beads on cut end of yarn, ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 1, bch (see Stitch Guide), ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc; rep from * across—16 bch, 17 sc. Fasten off.

<1

SPHERE NECKLACE Mary Jane Hall

1

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3

4

Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen www.classiceliteyarns.com

Getting Started Key

= chain (ch) = single crochet (sc)

= beaded chain (bch)

= double crochet (dc)

= ring

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Finished Size 21⁄2" wide across pendant and 121⁄2” long. Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen (35% linen, 35% wool, 30% baby alpaca; 137 yd [125 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #2220 bay blue, 1 ball. Hook Size D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions One 2" metal ring; fifteen 8 mm


round wood beads; one 1" wood bead; large-eye sewing needle. Gauge Gauge is not important for this project.

Stitch Guide

Hook Size G/6 (4mm). Notions Tapestry needle; large geometric wooden beads, 2. Gauge Gauge is not important for this project.

Beaded chain (bch): Slide bead up to hook, yo, draw through lp on hook.

Pattern

Pattern

Chain

NECKLACE

With 2 strands held tog, leaving an 18" tail, ch 124. Fasten off, leaving an 18" tail.

Ring Join yarn with sl st around ring, 60 sc around ring, sl st in first sc to join—60 sc. Fasten off.

Neck Chain String 13 small beads onto yarn with needle, sl st in any sc on ring to join, [ch 8, bch (see Stitch Guide)] 13 times, ch 8, sl st 11⁄2" from first sl st to join—14 ch-8 sps, 13 bch. Fasten off.

Assembly With needle, slide 8 mm bead, 1" bead, and last 8 mm bead on 10" length of yarn. Knot securely at one end. Sew securely to center of ring as shown in photo.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

NECKLACE

FINISHING Knot the ends tog placing knot immediately foll ch ends. Fasten off. Using tapestry needle, thread 2 center strands through 1 bead. Tie Square Knot as foll: Lay strand on far right side over center 2 strands and under strand on far left side. Bring strand on far left side under center 2 strands, then up through loop created by strand on far right side. Pull so that knot sits close to bottom of the bead. Lay strand on far left over center 2 strands and under strand on far right side. Bring strand on far right side under center 2 strands, then up through loop created by strand on far left side. Pull to complete knot. *Lay strand on far right side over center 2 strands and under strand on far left side. Bring strand on far left side under center 2 strands, then up through loop created by strand on far right side. Pull knot tight. Lay strand on far left over center 2 strands and under strand on far right side. Bring strand on far right side under center 2 strands, then up through loop created by strand on far left side. Pull to complete knot. Rep from * 1 time. Using tapestry needle, thread 2 center strands through 1 bead. Rep from * 1 more time.

Tassel Cut four 12" strands of yarn. Fold pieces in half and knot tightly with beaded strands. Trim ends even, if necessary.

PRESTO NECKLACE Vickie Howell

1

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3

MEDALLION NECKLACE Mary Jane Hall

1

2

3

4

Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen www.classiceliteyarns.com

Getting Started Finished Size About 21⁄4" wide across pendant and 161⁄2" long; including tassel. Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen (35% linen, 35% wool, 30% baby alpaca; 137 yd [125 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #2275 linen (MC), 1 ball; #2294 ivy (CC), 15 yd. Hooks Size D/3 (3.25 mm) and B/1 (2.25 mm) crochet hooks. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions One 2" metal ring; one 1" metal ring; st markers (m); yarn needle. Gauge Granny square = 11⁄2" square.

Notes To change colors: Work last yarn over of stitch with new color and draw through.

Pattern NECKLACE

4

Granny Square

Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen www.classiceliteyarns.com

Getting Started Finished Size About 23" long, including beaded tassel. Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen (30% baby alpaca, 35% wool, 35% linen; 137 yd [125 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #2289 Botticelli pink or #2220 bay blue, 1 ball.

With smaller hook and MC, ch 2. Rnd 1: 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook, changing to CC in last sc (see Notes), sl st in first sc to join—8 sc. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next sc, *ch 3, sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around, ch 3, changing to MC, sl st in first sc to join—8 sc, 4 ch-3 sps. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next sc, [(sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch-3 sp, sc in next 2 sc] 3 times, (sc, ch 3, sc) in last ch-3 sp, changing to CC in last st, sl st in first sc to join—16 sc, 4 ch-3 sps.

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Assembly With yarn needle and yarn, sew small rings to large ring as shown in photo. Sew small rings tog at touch points.

Star Motif Rnd 1: With smaller hook and thread, ch 2, [sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 6] 7 times, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, dc in first sc to join—8 ch-sps. Rnd 2: Ch 1, (sc, picot [see Stitch Guide], sc) in sp created by join, *ch 6, (sc, picot, sc) in next ch-6 sp; rep from * around, ch 3, dc in first sc to join. Fasten off.

<4 <3

Assembly

<2 <1

With yarn needle and thread, using photo as guide, sew star to inside of large ring.

TASSELS NECKLACE Mary Jane Hall

1

Stitch Key

2

3

4

= chain (ch)

Tassels (make 3) Cut seven 8" lengths of yarn. Cut 12" piece of yarn, tie around center of strands, knotting ends securely. Fold strands in half at knot. Cut 18" piece of yarn, wrap around folded strands several times. Knot securely. Trim ends even. With yarn needle, sew tassel to small ring.

Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen www.classiceliteyarns.com

= slip stitch (sl st) = single crochet (sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, sc in next 2 sc, *(sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch-3 sp, sc in next 4 sc; rep from * around, (sc, ch 3, sc) in last ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sl st in first sc to join—24 sc, 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off.

Large Ring and Assembly With larger hook and MC, join with sl st around larger ring, *14 sc around ring, sc through ch-3 sp of granny square and sc around ring tog; rep from * 3 times, sl st in first sc to join—60 sc. Fasten off.

Small Ring With larger hook and MC, join yarn with sl st around smaller ring, 29 sc around ring, sl st in first sc to join—29 sc. Fasten off.

Tassel Cut seven 8" lengths of yarn. Cut a 12" piece of yarn, tie around center of strands, knotting ends securely. Fold strands in half around knot. Wrap an 18" piece of yarn several times around folded strands. Knot securely. Trim ends even. With yarn needle and yarn, sew tassel to small ring.

Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread Classic 10 (distributed by Coats and Clark) www.redheart.com

Getting Started Finished Size About 31⁄2" wide across pendant and 17" long, including tassels. Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Soft Linen (35% linen, 35% wool, 30% baby alpaca; 137 yd [125 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): # 2275 linen, 1 ball. Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread Classic 10 (distributed by Coats and Clark) (100% mercerized cotton; 350 yd [320 m]; ): #420 cream, 3 yd. Hooks Size D/3 (3.25 mm) and size 11 (.8 mm) steel crochet hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle; one 2" metal ring; three 1" metal rings; st markers (m). Gauge Star motif = 15⁄8" in diameter.

<2 <1

Stitch Guide Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.

Pattern NECKLACE

Stitch Key

Neck Chain

Large Ring

Find center of large ring. Place marker (pm) evenly spaced to left and right of center. Sl st at right marker to join yarn, ch 145 or to desired length, sl st at left marker to join yarn. Fasten off.

With larger hook, join yarn with sl st to metal ring, 60 sc around ring, sl st in first sc to join—60 sc. Twist row around ring, as shown in photo. Fasten off.

Small Ring (make 3)

= double crochet (dc)

FINISHING

With larger hook, join yarn with sl st to metal ring, 30 sc around ring, sl st in first sc to join—30 sc. Fasten off.

= picot

Sew small ring to center bottom of large ring. Weave in ends. 100 Crochetscene

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= chain (ch) = single crochet (sc)


Neck Chain Find center of large ring. Place marker (pm) evenly spaced to left and right of center, about 11⁄2" apart. Sl st at right marker to join yarn, ch 145 or to desired length, sl st at left marker to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

color to B, sl st to join in top of beg ch3—24 dc. Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc around, sl st to join in top of beg ch-3—24 dc. Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in next 8 dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in next 9 dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—18 dc, 2 ch-3 sps. Rnd 6: Ch 3, *dc in each st across to ch-3 sp, 3 dc in ch-3 sp; rep from * 1 time, sl st to join in top of beg ch-3—24 dc. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

LARGE BASKET With A, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), (dc in ring) 11 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 dc. Rnd 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in each dc around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—24 dc. Rnd 3: Ch 3, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—36 dc.

Rnd 4: Ch 3, *dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—48 dc. Rnd 5: Ch 3, *dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—60 dc. Rnd 6: Ch 3, dc blo around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—60 dc. Rnd 7: Ch 3, dc around, changing color to B, sl st to join in top of beg ch-3—60 dc. Rnds 8–9: Ch 3, dc around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—60 dc. Rnd 10: Ch 3, dc in next 25 dc, ch 4, sk next 4 dc, dc in next 26 dc, ch 4, sk next 4 dc, sl st to join in top of beg ch-3—60 dc. Rnd 11: Ch 3, *dc in each st across to ch-4 sp, 4 dc in ch-4 sp; rep from * 1 time, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—24 dc. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

BASKET CASES Meredith Crawford

1

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4

Premier Yarns Macra-Made www.premieryarns.com

Getting Started Finished Size Large basket: 11" in diameter and 61⁄2" tall. Small basket: 41⁄2" in diameter and 4" tall. Yarn Small Basket: Premier Yarns Macra-Made (58% polyester, 42% acrylic; 43 yd [39 m]/4.9 oz [140 g]; ): #7412 sprout (A) and #7409 platinum (B), 1 skein each. Large Basket: Premier Yarns Macra-Made (58% polyester, 42% acrylic; 43 yd [39 m]/ 4.9 oz [140 g]; ): #7408 Curacao coral (A) and #7409 platinum (B), 2 skeins each. Hook Size N/13 (9mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Tapestry needle. Gauge 8 dc = 4" and Rnds 1–2 = 41⁄2".

Pattern SMALL BASKET With A, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), (dc in ring) 11 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 dc. Rnd 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in each dc around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—24 dc. Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc blo around, changing

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Pillow front assembly diagram

1st

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PILLOW POPPER Sue Perez

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4 Lion Brand Yarns Modern Baby www.lionbrand.com

Lion Brand Yarns BonBons www.lionbrand.com

Stitch Key

Getting Started Finished Size 141⁄2" square, blocked; will stretch to fit 16" pillow. Yarn Lion Brand Yarns Modern Baby (50% acrylic, 50% nylon; 173 yd [158 m]/2.6 oz [75 g]; ): #149 grey (MC), 3 skeins. Lion Brand Yarns Bonbons (100% cotton; 28 yd [26 m]/.35 oz [10 g]; ): #630 beach (CC), 1 package of 8 colors. Hooks Size G/6 (4mm), D/3 (3.25mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Stitch markers (m), 4; tapestry needle; 18 mm buttons, 5; liquid seam sealant; 3" cardboard square, 16" square pillow form. Gauge 3 motifs = about 4", blocked. 17 sts and 13 rows = 4" in back panel patt.

Notes When pattern calls for CC, use seafoam green, turquoise, purple, and yellow or desired colors, as shown in diagram (sample uses only four colors). Yarn is cut after each round. Start each border round in a different place. When joining motifs, yarning under at joining chain stitch makes a smoother join. Motifs for front panel are joined as you go.

Stitch Guide Invisible join (inv join): After making final st, cut yarn, leaving 4"–6" tail. With smaller hook, draw yarn tail up and out

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2

= 2-side join motif

1st

= first motif

= 4-corner junction

1

= 1-side join motif

= first motif row


across top and then working motifs from left to right in rows from top to bottom.

4-corner junction *With WS facing and smaller hook, sc-join (see Stitch Guide) CC in any corner sp at junction of 4 inner corner sps, sc in next 3 corner sps, being careful to insert hook under both strands of starting knot, slipped sl join (see Stitch Guide) in first sc. Fasten off. With WS of panel facing, weave yarn tails under 1 or 2 strands at center of round. Knot ends securely. Clip ends close to knot; seal knot and yarn ends with a tiny amount of liquid seam sealant, being careful not to let it bleed through to RS. Rep from * at all 4-corner junctions.

Border

of st without tightening, insert hook from WS to RS through indicated st, draw yarn tail through, insert hook from bottom to top of all back strands and back lp(s) of indicated st(s), draw yarn tail down and through, bring yarn tail to right through next vertical strand; adjust join if necessary to mimic other sts in size. No-slip join: Insert hook from RS to WS through indicated st, catch new yarn about 3" from end, pull up a lp; wrap yarn tail completely around hook in either direction so that it crosses over working yarn (2 lps now on hook); yo and draw through both lps, catching yarn tail in back of st; tug tail to secure. Slipped slip join (slipped sl join): Drop working lp from hook, insert hook from WS to RS through indicated st, place dropped lp on hook, draw lp through indicated st, pull on yarn tail(s) to tighten lp and close join until it “disappears.” Motif join: Ch 1, drop lp from hook, insert hook from RS to WS through ch-3 sp of adjacent motif, replace lp on hook, draw lp through ch-sp to RS, yarn under and ch 1 to enclose adjacent ch-3, ch 1 to complete. Join with sc (sc-join): Make slipknot and place lp on hook, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and draw through both lps on hook. Extended half double crochet single crochet together (ehdc-sctog): Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull up a lp, yo and draw through 1 lp on hook, insert hook in indicated sp, pull up a lp, yo, pull through all lps on hook.

Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, sk beg ch-3, invisible join (see Stitch Guide) in first dc—12 dc. Fasten off. Rnd 2: (RS) With larger hook and MC, no-slip join (see above) in any st, ch 3, sc in same st (corner), [ch 3 (side lp), sk next 2 sts, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next st (corner)] 3 times, ch 3, invisible join in ch above no-slip join.

FIRST MOTIF

Work 49 motifs as shown in assembly diagram starting with the first motif in the top left corner. Cont to join rem motifs working

With smaller hook and CC, make adjustable ring.

1-SIDE JOIN MOTIF With smaller hook and CC, make adjustable ring. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, sk beg ch-3, invisible join in first dc—12 dc. Fasten off. Rnd 2: (RS) With larger hook and MC, no-slip join in any st, ch 3, sc in same st (corner), motif join (see above) in side lp, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next st (corner), [ch 3 (side lp), sk next 2 sts, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next st (corner)] 2 times, ch 3, invisible join in ch above no-slip join.

2-SIDE JOIN MOTIF With smaller hook and CC, make adjustable ring. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, sk beg ch-3, invisible join in first dc—12 dc. Fasten off. Rnd 2: (RS) With larger hook and MC, join with no-slip join in any st, ch 3, sc in same st (corner), [motif join, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next st (corner)] 2 times, ch 3 (side lp), sk next 2 sts, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next st, ch 3, invisible join in ch above no-slip join.

Pattern PILLOW Front Panel

Rnd 1: (WS) With WS facing, larger hook and MC, join with sl st in side lp of any corner motif, 2 hdc in same sp, *[hdc in next motif corner sp, ehdc-sctog (see Stitch Guide) in same sp as hdc and in corner sp of next motif, hdc in same corner sp as last st of ehdc-sctog, 3 hdc in next side lp] across to corner, 3 sc in corner ch-3 sp, place marker (pm) in 2nd sc to mark corner**, rotate work to right, 3 hdc in first side lp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, ending with hdc in same sp as first 2 sc, invisible join in first hdc, turn—168 sts. Fasten off. Rnd 2: (RS) No-slip join in hdc before any ehdc-sctog; *[ch 3, sk next st, sc in next hdc] across to corner, ending with sc in sc before marked sc, ch 3, sk marked sc, pm in ch-3 just made, sc in next sc, rotate work to right; rep from * 3 times, [ch 3, sk next st, sc in next hdc] across to beg, ch 3, invisible join in first ch after no-slip join, turn—84 ch-3 sps. Fasten off. Rnd 3: Sc-join in any marked ch-3 sp, hdc in same sp as join, *[2 hdc in next ch-3 sp] 9 times, 3 hdc in next ch-3 sp, [2 hdc in next ch-3 sp] 10 times**, 5 hdc in corner ch-sp, move m to 3rd hdc, rotate work to right; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 3 hdc in same sp as join, move m to last sc, sk joining sc, invisible join in first hdc, turn—184 sts. Fasten off. Rnd 4: Sc-join in any non-corner hdc, *hdc in each st to corner, 3 hdc in marked st, move m to center hdc, rotate work to right; rep from * 3 times, hdc in each rem st across, sk joining sc, invisible join in first hdc, turn—192 sts. Fasten off. Rnd 5: Sc-join in horizontal bar in any non-corner hdc, working in horizontal bars, hdc in each st around (move m up at each corner), sk joining sc, invisible join in first hdc, turn. Fasten off. Rnd 6: No-slip join in st to right of any marked st, ch 3, sk marked st, sc in next st, move m to ch-3 sp just made, rotate work to right, *[ch 3, sk next st, sc in next

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Apartment Living

st] across to corner, ending with sc in last sc before m, ch 3**, sk marked st, sc in next st, move m to ch-3 sp just made, rotate work to right; rep from * 3 times, ending last rep at **, invisible join in first ch after no-slip join, turn—96 ch-3 lps. Fasten off. Rnd 7: Sc-join in any side ch-3 sp, hdc in same sp, *2 hdc in next ch-3 sp and in each ch-3 sp to corner, 5 hdc in corner ch-sp**, move m to 3rd hdc, rotate work to right; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 hdc in each ch-3 sp across to beg, sk joining sc, invisible join in first hdc, turn—204 sts. Rnd 8: Sc-join in any side hdc, *hdc in each st to corner, 3 hdc in marked corner st, move m in 2nd hdc, rotate work to right; rep from * 3 times, hdc in each st to end, sk joining sc, invisible join in next hdc, turn—212 sts. Fasten off.

LARGE BACK PANEL With larger hook and MC, ch 51. Set-up row: (WS) Working in back ridge lps, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across, turn—49 sts. Pm in each row end to mark corners. Row 1: (RS) Ch 2 (does not count as st throughout), 2 dc in same st, dc in next 47 sts, 2 dc in last st, turn—51 sts. Row 2: (WS) Ch 2, hdc across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, [ch 3, sk next st, sc in next st] 25 times, turn—25 ch-3 lps. Row 4: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each ch-3 sp to end, hdc in last sc, turn—51 sts. Row 5: Ch 3, dc across, turn. Row 6: Rep Row 2. Rows 7–30: Rep Rows 3–6 six times. Row 31: (RS) Ch 1, sc across. Do not fasten off.

Border: Rotate work to right, ch 2 (does not count as st), work 39 hdc evenly spaced across row-ends to marker, 5 hdc in marked corner, move m to 3rd hdc for new corner, rotate work to right, hdc in next 24 foundation ch, sk next ch, hdc in next 24 foundation ch, 5 hdc in marked corner, move m to 3rd hdc to indicate corner, rotate work to right, work 39 hdc evenly spaced across row-ends to end of last row, invisible join in first sc of Row 31. Fasten off.

SMALL BACK PANEL With larger hook and MC, ch 51. Set-up row: (WS) Working in back ridge lps, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across, turn—49 sts. Pm in each row end to indicate corners. Rows 1–6: Rep Rows 1–6 of large back panel. Rows 7–12: Rep Rows 3–6 of large back panel 2 times, ending last rep with Row 4. Rows 13–14: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Do not fasten off.

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Border: Rotate work to right, ch 2 (does not count as st), work 16 hdc evenly spaced across row-ends to marker, 5 hdc in marked corner, move m to 3rd hdc for new corner, rotate work to right, hdc in next 24 foundation ch, sk next ch, hdc in next 24 foundation ch, 5 hdc in marked corner, move m to 3rd hdc to indicate corner, rotate work to right, work 16 hdc evenly spaced across row-ends to end of last row, invisible join in first sc of Row 14. Fasten off.

FINISHING Block panels to measurements. Place pins in motif centers to avoid distortion of motif chain lps. Weave in ends.

Assembly Take care when stitching front and back panels together; if necessary, use yarn scraps to “baste” pieces together at 10-stitch intervals to avoid misalignment. Place front and back panels WS together, matching marked corners and overlapping smaller back panel over larger back panel. With RS facing, using larger hook and working through all layers, sc-join MC in any side hdc, *hdc in next st and in each st to marker, 2 hdc in marked st, rotate work to right; rep from * 3 times,

hdc in each st across, sk joining sc, invisible join in first hdc. Fasten off.

Button Supports (make 5) Note: Crochet button supports are used to stabilize buttons and prevent stretching of back panel. With larger hook and MC, make adjustable ring, with firm tension, 6 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving 6" tail. Thread needle through all sts and pull tight.

Attach button Place first button on upper RS of larger back panel. Place button support on WS of panel, behind button (panel should be sandwiched between the button and the button support). Use yarn tail to sew button, panel, and button support together. Rep with rem buttons.

Tassels (make 4) Make tassel (see Glossary). Cut four 12" lengths of MC and sew 1 tassel to each corner of assembled pillow. Thread ends down through tassel head to center of tassel. Trim tassel. Insert pillow form and button closed.


HOME GROWN PLANT COZY Vickie Howell

1

2

3

Rnd 4: Ch 1, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] around, sl st in first sc to join—28 sc.

to join, fasten off.

Body

*With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in any ch-6 sp from Rnd 7, ch for 14". Fasten off, leaving a 9" end for sewing. Rep from * in each rem ch-6 sp on Rnd 7.

Hanging Strands

Rnd 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), sk next st, [dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st] around, sl st in first dc to join—14 dc, 14 ch-sps. Rnd 2: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same ch-sp, [sk next dc, 2 dc in next ch-sp] around, sl st in first dc to join—28 dc. Rnds 3–5: Rep Rnds 1–2, then rep Rnd 1 once more. Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in each dc and ch-sp around, sl st in first sc to join—28 sc. Rnd 7: Sl st in first 3 sc, [ch 6, sk next 3 sc, sl st in next 4 sc] around, sl st in first sc

Tassel Cut two 8" lengths of yarn and set aside. Wrap yarn around cardboard square 15 times. Slide one 8" length through all lps at one end and knot tightly to secure. Slide all lps off cardboard. Wrap rem 8" length around all strands about 1" from knotted end. Cut through all lps at opposite end. Combine ends from tie with cut lps and trim even.

FINISHING Use remainder of length at top of lps to sew tassel to center of bottom. Knot all 4 hanger strands tog at end of chs. Knot again 31⁄2" from first knot. Weave in ends.

4

Wool and the Gang Jersey Be Good www.woolandthegang.com

Getting Started Finished Size About 7" in diameter and 61⁄2" tall, excluding tassel. Yarn Wool and the Gang Jersey Be Good (98% cotton, 2% elastine; 109 yd [100 m]/171⁄2 oz [500 g]; ): spearmint green, 1 cone. Hook Size 12 mm (see Notes). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Stitch marker (m); 7" pot; 6" cardboard square. Gauge 6 sts = 21⁄2" and Rnds 1–4 = 5".

Notes

BLANKET STATEMENT Erin Black

1

2

3

4

Planter is sized to fit a pot 7" in diameter. Planter was worked using the Clover Amour 12 mm crochet hook. If the exact hook cannot be found, try to obtain the proper gauge utilizing an N/P/15 (10 mm) or P/Q (15 mm) standard hook.

Red Heart Grande www.redheart.com

Pattern

Getting Started

COZY

Finished Size About 41" wide and 53" long. Yarn Red Heart Grande (78% acrylic, 22%

Bottom Ch 8, being careful not to twist ch, sl st in first ch form a ring. Place marker (pm) to indicate beg of rnd, move m up as work progresses. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, 7 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join—7 sc. Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc to join—14 sc. Rnd 3: Ch 1, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] around, sl st in first sc to join—21 sc.

wool; 46 yd [42 m]/5¼ oz [150 g]; ): #0288 apricot (A), 13 balls, #0110 aran (B), 8 balls. Hook Size Q (16 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle; sewing needle and matching thread (optional). Gauge 8 sts and 5 rows = 6" in patt.

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Notes To change colors, always change to new color on last yarn over of last stitch before color change.

blanket. Knot 24" strand securely around all strands and trim ends even. Rep for remaining cables.

Stitch Key

Reduced cable patt

Stitch Guide Cable patt (multiple of 9 + 1) Ch 19 for gauge swatch. Row 1: (RS) Working in back ridge lps, dc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped chs count as first dc), dc across, turn—18 dc. Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first dc throughout), dc in next st, *FPdc around next st, BPdc around next 4 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * across, turn. Row 3: Ch 2, dc in next st, *BPdc around next st, sk next 2 sts, FPtr around next 2 sts, working in front of FPtr, FPtr around skipped sts, BPdc around next st, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * across, turn. Row 4: Rep Row 2. Row 5: Ch 2, dc in next st, *BPdc around next st, FPdc around next 4 sts, BPdc around next st, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * across, turn. Rep Rows 2–5 for patt.

Pattern BLANKET With A, ch 51. Rows 1–5: Work Rows 1–5 of cable patt—50 sts. Rows 6–8: Rep Rows 2–4 of cable patt, changing to color B at end of Row 8 (see Notes). Row 9: With B, rep Row 5 of cable patt, changing to color A. Rows 10–12: With A, rep Rows 2–4 of cable patt, changing to color B at end of Row 12. Row 13: With B, rep Row 5 of cable patt. Row 14: Rep Row 2 of cable patt, changing to color A. Rows 15–16: With A, rep Row 3–4 of cable patt, changing to color B at end of Row 16. Row 17: With B, rep Row 5 of cable patt. Rows 18–19: Rep Rows 2–3 of cable patt, changing to color A at end of Row 19. Row 20: With A, rep Row 4 of cable patt, changing to color B, fasten off A. Row 21: With B, rep Row 5 of cable patt. Rows 22–41: Rep Rows 2–5 of cable patt. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Optional: If your ends seem to pull loose, stitch them in place with sewing needle and matching thread.

Tassels (make 12) Cut fourteen 16" lengths of yarn. Cut one 24" length of yarn. Hold all 16" lengths tog with ends aligned. Using photo as a guide for placement, insert ends through sp between 2 dc at one short end of

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2017

= chain (ch) < Row 5

= double crochet (dc)

Row 4 >

= FPdc < Row 3 Row 2 >

= BPdc < Row 1

= FPtr


How to Crochet | the basics

Crochet Basics Welcome! If you’re already hip to crochet, you can probably skip this section and go straight to the glossary stitches on page 114. If you’re new to crochet, these step-by-step directions for the basic stitches will get you going in no time! Grab your hook and yarn, and let’s get started.

Slipknot

!

Start your work with a slipknot, which will secure your beginning chain. Place the yarn over the hook !. Yarn over (yo) @. Pull the second loop (lp) through the first lp, then pull tight #.

@

#

Chain (ch) The chain is worked the same way as the slipknot, except you don’t pull it tight at the end. To work several chains, tension the yarn by pulling it above the hook over your index finger. With your thumb and middle finger, hold the end of the chain strip to keep it taut !. Then, instead of wrapping the yarn over the hook, “pluck” the yarn through the lp on the hook @. Although this method takes some practice, it will result in more even chains. First row of stitches: where to put the hook Here is what the chain looks like: You can work: Under 1 loop (blo) ! > This method sometimes results in a gap between the chain and stitch. However, it’s useful when you’re making a project that calls for working across the other side of the foundation chain. Under 2 loops (blo + bottom ridge loop) @> This method can cause a loopy edge. However, it works well if you’re adding an edging later or plan to seam that edge. Under the bottom ridge loop # > This method offers a tidy way to work, because it leaves a nice “V” edge.

!

back loop (blo)

@

bottom ridge loop

front loop (flo)

!

@

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How to Crochet | the basics

Treble stitch (tr)

Single crochet (sc)

Insert hook into chain or stitch !. Yarn over and pull loop through st; you have 2 loops on the hook @. Yarn over and pull loop through both loops. Done #!

Yarn over 2 times before inserting hook. Finish as for double crochet.

!

Double treble (dtr)

@

#

Yarn over 3 times before inserting hook. Finish as for double crochet.

Half double crochet stitch (hdc) Half double crochet makes a stitch that’s taller than a sc and shorter than a dc. Yarn over and insert hook in stitch and pull up a loop, as with a double crochet !. Then, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook @.

Double crochet (dc) Yarn over ! and insert hook into chain or stitch.

Yarn over and pull loop through stitch; you have 3 loops on the hook @. Yarn over and pull loop through 2 loops #. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops again. Done $! Once you learn double crochet, you can make your stitches taller and taller by simply adding a yarn over before inserting the hook. Then, pull through 2 loops at a time until you have 1 loop left on the hook.

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!

@

#

$

2017

!

@

Slip stitch (sl st) The slip stitch is the shortest of the stitches. It’s often used to “sneak” over a few stitches when a pattern calls for making the next row shorter, as with an armhole. (You can make a project entirely in slip stitches, but that’s a technique for another day.) To work a slip stitch, insert the hook under the chain or stitch and yarn over as for a single crochet !. Then pull the loop through the stitch and through the loop on the hook. Presto flatto @.

!

@


Foundation single crochet stitch (fsc)

Motifs

The foundation single crochet stitch is a little fancy. It’s a way of working your chain and first row at the same time. It makes a slightly stretchy foundation row, which is great for a garment. Start with a slipknot on hook, chain 2, inset hook in 2nd chain from hook, yarn over, pull up loop !. Yarn over and draw through 1 loop @. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. For the next foundation single crochet, insert hook under 2 loops at base of previous stitch #. Yarn over and pull through 1 loop $. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops %. Repeat Steps 3–5 until you have the number of stitches called for in the first row (this number will be fewer than the number of chains called for). You can use this foundation stitch to work foundation half double crochet and foundation double crochet as well.

Motifs worked in the round call for a different sort of start than the flat chain. There are two main ways to work this beginning.

!

Adjustable ring You use the adjustable ring when you want the center of a circle to be as small as possible. Wrap the yarn over your finger, then slide it off, keeping the loop intact !. Insert the hook into the loop and chain 1 to secure @. Work stitch as directed, working around yarn loop; here, we’re working single crochet #. Join to the first stitch with a slip stitch. Pull the tail to tighten $.

!

@

#

$

@

Chain Ch i lloop center t

#

%

$

This center can’t be tightened. It provides a stable base for the motif. Crochet the number of chains indicated !. Join to the first chain with a slip stitch @. Insert hook in circle and chain 1 #. Continue working as indicated in pattern $.

!

@

#

$

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How to Crochet | the basics

Seaming

Mattress-stitch seam

For the most seemly seams, use one of these methods:

Mattress stitch is excellent for joining garment pieces. Lay garment pieces side by side, RS up. Cut a length of yarn as long as your arm and thread onto tapestry needle. To secure the end, insert the needle from the top of right side to the back and from the back of left side to the top !. Repeat to create a tiny stitch. Working ½ stitch in from edge, insert needle into right side, from front to back, and push needle from back to front to emerge about ½" away @. Insert needle into left side parallel to the point where needle emerged on right side, from front to back, and push needle from back to front about ½" away #. Continue alternating right and left sides, weaving the seaming yarn from side to side $ and %. After about 6 stitches, pull the end of the seaming yarn to draw stitches taut, but not so tight that they pucker the seam. The seaming yarn disappears ➅! Continue sewing and occasionally pulling taut the seaming yarn until pieces are joined.

Slip-stitch seam The slip-stitch seam is a terrific go-to seaming method that works well for all sorts of projects because it’s sturdy. It’s not the best choice for lacy garments. Hold project pieces with right sides (RS) together, with the edges meeting. Holding the yarn to the back and the hook to the front, inset hook through both layers of fabric, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over with both working end and tail, draw through loop on hook !. Drop tail. Insert hook 1 to 2 stitches to the left of the hook, through both layers. Yarn over, pull up loop from back and through loop on hook. Continue slip stitching down the side until pieces are connected @.

!

@

Whipstitch seam The whipstitch seam is good for amigurumi and similar projects. However, it’s not the best choice for garments. Place pieces to be joined with right sides together. Cut a length of yarn as long as your arm, and thread it onto tapestry needle. Insert needle from back to front through both fabric edges !. To secure end, insert needle at same spot to create a small stitch @. Insert needle 1 to 2 stitches up, from back to front. Pull gently to tighten to avoid puckering the seam #. Continue sewing up the sides of the 2 pieces.

!

@

#

$

%

!

#

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Working into a stitch

Surface crochet

There are three ways to insert your hook into a stitch: under both loops, under the back loop only (blo), and under the front loop only (flo). Under both loops ! Back loop only @ Front loop only # *You can also work around the post of a stitch rather than into the top to create textured stitches. You’ll find examples of these post stitches in our glossary.

Surface crochet lets you create a design on the top of the fabric. Essentially, you’re working a slip stitch in the middle of the fabric. Hold yarn to back of fabric !. Insert hook from front and pull up a loop @. Insert hook from front to back about 1 stitch over. Yarn over and pull through yarn from back # and through loop on hook $. Continue in this way until your design is complete.

!

!

@

#

$

@

# Weaving in ends Number one rookie tip: leave your tails at least 6" long! Too-short tails lead to little yarn ends poking around your project. Six inches will give you enough length to thread the yarn onto a needle and work it through some stitches. For beginning tails, you can hold the yarn end close to the top of the stitches and work over them. For end tails, you’ll need to weave the tails into the fabric. Thread yarn tail onto needle. Insert needle through the middle of the stitches !. Check both sides to ensure that you’re working through the stitches and not leaving a long bit on the opposite side. Pull needle through @. Insert the needle one thread over, under the same stitches. Pull the needle through.

Concentration Levels At the top of each pattern, you’ll see one to four dots. This indicates the concentration level of the project. We use concentration levels because it better conveys the attention the projects requires. For instance, a project using mostly chain stitch may be “easy,” but if you’re working it in thread, it requires more concentration. Here’s a description of those concentration levels.

1

2

3

4

Little concentration required.

Straightforward stitching means your hands can work on autopilot.

1

2

3

4

Some concentration required.

Easily memorized stitch patterns and minimal shaping might require some focus and counting.

1

2

3

4

Fair amount of focus required.

Involved stitch patterns, shaping, or assembly require fairly constant concentration.

1 !

@

2

3

4

Extreme focus required.

Unusual techniques or complex stitch patterns and shaping require constant focus.

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How to Crochet | the basics

Gauge

Wet-blocking

Gauge is the ratio of stitches and rows to a given measurement, usually 4" square. At the top of each pattern, you’ll see the gauge given for that project. Nobody’s gauge is quite like yours; it’s unique to you and the way you hold your hook and tension your yarn. It’s a reflection, too, of your mood and crochet comfort level. The gauge given in the pattern is a reflection of the designer’s tension and crochet style. The goal is to get these two gauges as close as possible. Matching the gauge given for a project is especially important when you’re making a garment; it’s less important when you’re making an accessory or homedecoration project. To measure your unique gauge, crochet a swatch in the stitch pattern designated for the project. The swatch should measure at least 4½" square, to allow for any curling or wonkiness at the swatch edges. Measure 4" side to side and top to bottom of the swatch, centering the 4" portion so that you’re away from the edges. Now count the number of stitches and the number of rows within that 4" square. Compare your numbers to the numbers given for the gauge in the project. If you have more stitches than the gauge given, your tension is tighter than the designer’s, and you should try a larger hook. If you have fewer stitches than the gauge given, your tension is looser than the designer’s, and you should try a smaller hook.

Wet-blocking is absolutely necessary for lace projects and may be necessary for garments. You’ll need: a clean bin (Note: If you’re using a sink, be sure to wash it first! Facial cleansers and moisturizers can cling to the sink and damage the yarn.) tepid water thick towels rust-proof pins blocking board or playmat (Note: If you don’t have a mat, you can use a thick towel as a base, but be aware that the pins won’t hold as securely.) a no-rinse wash (Note: Although this wash is optional, it’s desirable for fabric that may have seen some travels while you were crocheting it.) Submerge the project in the water and let sit at least 15 minutes, so all the fibers are saturated. Then, lift the project out; do not wring the fabric! Place on a thick towel. Fold the towel over and squeeze gently to remove excess water. Place blocking board in a place where neither kitties nor kiddies will disturb it. Pin project to blocking board to desired dimensions and let dry. Lace will open up dramatically, so you can admire your work while it dries. For more details on blocking shawls, see crochetme.com.

Steam blocking Steam blocking works well when you’re primarily just smoothing out the stitchwork. You’ll need: an ironing board or similar hard surface (the floor or a table works in a pinch) a thick towel a steam iron

Blocking Blocking is the magic that brings crochet projects to life. In the course of crocheting, the fabric can become lumpy. Blocking not only smooths out the stitches, but also makes the fabric pliable so you can shape it to size. There are two basic types of blocking: steam blocking and wet-blocking. The method you use depends on the type of project.

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rust-proof pins Lay the towel down and place your project on top. Hold the iron about an inch above the fabric (do not touch the iron to the crochet) and blast it with steam. Move across the fabric, blasting steam until you’ve covered the surface, paying particular attention to the edges. Now, pin the project at the edges to the desired measurements and let dry. Done!


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How to Crochet | glossary

Adjustable Ring

Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc)

Leaving a 4" tail, wrap tail around fingers to form ring. Work stitches of first round into ring. At end of first round, pull tail to tighten ring.

Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times—1 FPdc completed.

Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc) Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times—1 BPdc completed.

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog) Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook—1 stitch decreased.

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog) [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook—1 stitch decreased.

Double Crochet Three Together (dc3tog) [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 3 times (4 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all loops on hook—2 stitches decreased.

Double Treble Crochet (dtr) Yarn over 3 times, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (5 loops on hook), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 4 times—1 dtr completed.

Tassel Cut a piece of cardboard 3" square. Wrap yarn to desired thickness around cardboard. Cut a short length of yarn and tie tightly around one end of wrapped yarn (Figure 1). Cut yarn loops at other end. Cut another piece of yarn and wrap tightly around loops a short distance below top knot to form tassel neck. Knot securely, thread ends onto tapestry needle, and pull to center of tassel (Figure 2). Trim ends.

Figure 1

Extended Single Crochet (esc) Insert hook in next stitch or chain, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), yarn over and pull through 2 loops—1 esc completed.

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc) Start with a slipknot on hook, chain 2 (Figure 1), insert hook in 2nd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop (the “chain,” Figure 2), yarn over and draw through 2 loops (the single crochet), 1 sc with its own ch st (shaded) at the bottom (Figure 3), *insert hook under 2 loops of the “ch” st (shaded) of last st (Figure 4) and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * for length of foundation (Figure 5).

Figure 2

Figure 1

Figure 4

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Figure 5

Figure 3

Figure 2

Whipstitch Seams Place pieces with right sides together. Hold pieces with the 2 edges facing you.

Step 1: Secure seaming yarn on wrong side of one piece. Pass needle through pieces from back to front at start of seam. This creates a small stitch to begin seam.

Step 2: A little farther left, pass needle through pieces, again from back to front, wrapping seam edge. Repeat Step 2 to complete seam. Secure end of seaming yarn.


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How to Crochet | glossary/sources

Standard Yarn Weight System* Abbreviations beg bet blo CC ch cm cont dc dtr dec(s)(’d) est fdc flo foll fsc g hdc inc(s)(’d) k lp(s) MC m mm patt(s) pm p rem rep rev sc rnd(s) RS sc sk sl sl st sp(s) st(s) tch tog tr WS yd yo * () []

begin(s); beginning between back loop only contrasting color chain centimeter(s) continue(s); continuing double crochet double treble crochet decrease(s); decreasing; decreased established foundation double crochet front loop only follows; following foundation single crochet gram(s) half double crochet increase(s); increasing; increased knit loop(s) main color marker millimeter(s) pattern(s) place marker purl remain(s); remaining repeat; repeating reverse single crochet round(s) right side single crochet skip slip slip(ped) stitch space(es) stitch(es) turning chain together treble crochet wrong side yard(s) yarn over hook repeat starting point alternate measurements and/or instructions work bracketed instructions a specified number of times

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0

Yarn Fingering, 10-count crochet thread Gauge 32–42 sts Hook (metric) 1.6-2.25 mm Hook (U.S.) 000 to B-1

4

Yarn Worsted, Afghan, Aran Gauge 11–14 sts Hook (metric) 5.5–6.5 mm Hook (U.S.) I-9 to K-101⁄2

1

Yarn Sock, Fingering, Baby Gauge 21–32 sts Hook (metric) 2.25–3.5 mm Hook (U.S.) B-1 to E-4

5

Yarn Chunky, Craft, Rug Gauge 8–11 sts Hook (metric) 6.5–9 mm Hook (U.S.) K-101⁄2 to M-13

2

Yarn Sport, Baby Gauge 16–20 sts Hook (metric) 3.5–4.5 mm Hook (U.S.) E-4 to 7 Yarn DK, Light Worsted Gauge 12–17 sts Hook (metric) 4.5–5.5 mm Hook (U.S.) 7 to I-9

6

Yarn Super Bulky, Roving Gauge 7–9 sts Hook (metric) 9-15 mm Hook (U.S.) M-13 to Q

3

7

Yarn Jumbo, Roving Gauge 6 sts and fewer Hook (metric) 15 mm and larger Hook (U.S.) Q and larger

The Craft Yarn Council has set up guidelines to bring uniformity to yarn labels and published patterns. The yarn-weight symbols that appear in the patterns are based on the system outlined above. We have consulted the yarn label, the manufacturer’s website, and other resources, to classify these yarns as accurately as possible. We continue to offer photos of each yarn to help you visualize the yarns used. *Guidelines only: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

Crochet Gauge To check gauge, chain 30 to 40 stitches using recommended hook size. Work in pattern stitch until piece measures at least 4" (10 cm) from foundation chain. Lay swatch on flat surface. Place a ruler over swatch and count number of stitches across and number of rows down (including fractions of stitches and rows) in 4" (10 cm). Repeat 2 or 3 times on different areas of swatch to confirm measurements. If you have more stitches and rows than called for in instructions, use a larger hook; if you have fewer, use a smaller hook. Repeat until gauge is correct.

Jailhouse Rock Pullover, Page 38.


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Project Designers | our awesome contributors

BRENDA K. B. ANDERSON is the author of Crochet Ever After and Beastly Crochet (both by Interweave). In her video 3-D Crochet (Interweave), Brenda demonstrates how to make adorable amigurumi. She lives in a little house in St. Paul, Minnesota, with her awesome husband, twin girls, and their beloved hairy baby, Mr. Kittypants.

MEREDITH CRAWFORD is a writer, blogger, crochet designer, and social media consultant based in Dallas, Texas. Since starting her blog, One Sheepish Girl, almost five years ago, she has shared dozens of tutorials, taught online video classes, and written a book, Crochet with One Sheepish Girl (Sixth & Spring). You can find her online at www.onesheepishgirl.com.

ANNELIES BAES is author of the crochet book Heerlijk Haken and publishes frequently in international crochet magazines. She is an autodidactic designer under the label Vicarno Crochet Designs. She is married and the mother of two boys, Vic and Arno. You can find her online at www.en.vicarno.com.

ANNASTASIA CRUZ loves to crochet, sew, smock, knit, and embroider, and is learning how to tat. She also loves hiking with her family, spending time with friends, and listening to good audiobooks.

DEBORAH BAGLEY learned to crochet as a teenager, but really fell in love with crocheting when she started designing in 2011 and set up shop as www.Yarn ovations.com. She finds the creative process fun and challenging. It also helps keep her sane as she and her husband raise two active young boys. BRETT BARA is the founder of Brooklyn Craft Company, a modern craft store and DIY workshop space in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. She is the former host of TV’s Knit and Crochet Today, former editor of Crochet Today magazine, and author of Clever Crocheted Accessories and Crochet at Home (both by Interweave). She lives in New York City with her husband, twin daughters, cat, and tons of yarn. Visit her online at www.brooklyncraftcompany.com or www.brettbara.com. ERIN BLACK has been knitting and crocheting for more than twenty-five years. She uses her training in design and fine arts to update a traditional craft and create sculptural yarn art that translates seamlessly into classic and modern settings alike. Her designs can be found at www.midknits.com.

DORIS CHAN may often be found pondering the infinite ways of assembling crocheted motifs into wearables. She is the 2016 inductee into the Crochet Guild of America’s Jean Leinhauser Crochet Hall of Fame and swears she’ll live up to the honor. Lotus yarn and all of Doris’s independent designs are available exclusively at DesigningVashti.com, or you can visit her at dorischancrochet.com.

SARA DUDEK, the assistant editor for Interweave’s Knitscene magazine, enjoys good coffee, the Colorado mountains, and lots and lots of fun yarn things. She has been knitting and crocheting for more than twenty years. TEVA DURHAM is the author of Loop-dLoop Crochet (STC Craft/Abrams, 2007).

KEILAH FOK is the crochet designer and blogger behind Knot Theorist Designs. Ever since she was two years old, her favorite question has been “How does that work?” She loves working with knots, both in yarn and in theory. She blogs at www.theknottheorist.wordpress.com. MARY JANE HALL is the author of Colorful Crochet Lace (Interweave). You can find her online at www.positively crochet.blogspot.com/. JILL HANRATTY lives, designs, crochets, and sews in New Jersey.

SUZANNE HIRTH is a sales consultant and instructor at her LYS, Knitorious, in St. Louis, Missouri, where she teaches both crochet and knitting. When not working with traditional yarn, she can be found using upcycled alternative “yarn”—everything from discarded fabric to VHS tape—in a variety of accessories and home décor projects. Sahara Afghan, page 20 >

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VICKIE HOWELL is a designer, author, and on-air personality, and the guest editor of this issue of Crochetscene. You can watch her weekly live stream, Ask Me Monday, on Facebook and catch her podcast, CRAFT*ish, on iTunes, Stitcher, and SoundCloud. Follow @vickiehowell on social media and at www.vickiehowell.com. COURTNEY KELLEY is the co-owner of Kelbourne Woolens, distributors of the Fibre Company yarns. She graduated from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago in 2001 with a focus in fiber and material studies and immediately began working in a knitting shop while attempting to become an artist. She stayed in the knitting world after a brief foray into the world of fine art and founded Kelbourne Woolens along with her business partner in 2008. She is chairwoman of the Yarn Group of the National Needlearts Association. Courtney lives in Philadelphia with her son, her partner, and his son. She enjoys crocheting and cross-stitching while everyone else plays Minecraft. MELISSA LEAPMAN has more than 900 designs in print, making her one of the most widely published American crochet and knit designers working today. Her most recent book is Melissa Leapman’s Indispensable Stitch Collection for Crocheters (Creative Publishing International). SUE PEREZ lives in Wisconsin, where she spends the winters crocheting and the summers cycling and photographing wildflowers. She blogs about it all at www.mrsmicawber.blogspot.com. JENNIFER PIONK lives along a river in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula with her husband and young kids. Just four short years ago she didn’t know the difference between a crochet hook and knitting needles, but she taught herself to crochet and soon afterward, began designing. She loves exploring new techniques and putting her own spin on the classics. Pop on by www.acrochetedsimplicity.com to check out more of her work.

ANASTASIA POPOVA began her crochet career when she designed and produced a line of kids’ clothes and accessories for local boutiques. Anastasia teaches crochet, and her classes cover various crochet techniques, including Irish and Tunisian crochet, as well as designs that incorporate both knitting and crocheting. NATASHA ROBARGE lives in Houston, Texas, and strives to create fun and functional crochet garments.

ERIKA AND MONIKA SIMMONS, aka the Double Stitch Twins, hail from the South Side of Chicago. The twins learned how to crochet in fourth grade in an after-school program but didn’t really crochet much until twenty years later, in 2002.The twins have written three books, including Double Stitch Designs for the Crochet Fashionista (Interweave). Find ready-to-wear and custom Double Stitch Designs at www.doublestitch.etsy.com. LINDA SKUJA is a textile designer from Riga, Latvia, and creator of crochet pattern brand Eleven Handmade. She designs stylish pieces using both simple and innovative stitches, as well as innovative stitches. Find out more on the ElevenHandmade Facebook page, www.facebook.com/ElevenHandmade/. LORI STEINBERG has been crocheting since she was a child. Her crochet designs have appeared in various publications, including Vogue Knitting Magazine and Go Crafty. ANNE WEIL, a lover of beautiful things, designs knit and crochet patterns and craft DIYs for the modern maker at Flax & Twine (www.flaxandtwine.com). Anne’s been crocheting and knitting since she was seven years old, and knows she’ll be a designer for life! Her book, Knitting Without Needles (Potter Craft) was released this year. You’ll usually find Anne in her sunny studio in Denver.

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Behind the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Scene | at our photo shoot

Be Here Now! I Hot shots from the shoot by Vickie Howell, truly a hands-on editor! Our favorite behind the scenes shots!

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Creative and calming, this easy Crochet can be the perfect way to destress! From home accent projects to cozy wearables, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find 18 fun, easy, and calming projects in Crochet to Calm that can be completed in almost no time at all! Featuring a foreword by Mandy Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Sullivan, founder of CraftasTherapy, Crochet to Calm is guaranteed to take your stress away, one stitch at a time.

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