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Homecoming a collection curated by Martin's Lab

Julie Dubreux - Carol Feller - Jonna Hietala - Bristol Ivy - Asja Janeczek Isabell Kraemer - Justyna Lorkowska - Christelle Nihoul Dieuwke Schack-Mulligen - Woolly Wormhead


Tech editing: Eleanor Dixon Copy editing: Eleanor Dixon, Justyna Lorkowska Layout: Justyna Lorkowska, Marcin Lorkowski Illustrations: Justyna Lorkowska Photography: Kinga & Marcin Malinowscy/Whiteberry whiteberry.com.pl Make up: Anna Wenge Make Up & Beauty Models: Klaudia Jakubowska, Oliwia Nguyen Hong Location: Zamek Bierzgłowski and neighborhood, Poland All yarns can be purchased online at martinslab.com, in the studio and from retailers around the world. Follow me: instagram.com/martinslab facebook.com/MartinsYarnAndFiber Martin's Lab Studio is located on 27, Jęczmienna Street in Torun, Poland. Printed in Poland by Jumar Press © 2019. Copyright Martin's Lab and Jumar Press. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be copied or reproduced without written permission of the designers and the publisher. Although every precaution has been taken in preparation of this book, Martin's Lab and the contributors assume no responsibility for errors and omissions, neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of information contained herein.


f o r

m y

m o m


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Foreword Homecoming

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Ammon Bezel Bloom Time Mirallat Nisaba Rooted Sine Tennant Woodrow Xander Ziggy

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Designers

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Aubrey

Sport


For my family and me, last year was marked by homecomings – actual and figurative, jubilant and bittersweet, eagerly awaited and sadly anticipated. Funny how life often combines tears with laughter, pain with joy. After years of dreaming and months of work, worry, and waiting, we left behind the busy, buzzing city and moved to the country, where we daily experience nature all around us… a lovely garden, wandering deer, a crackling fire in the hearth... and peaceful silence. We have finally found our earthly home. This Aubrey Sport collection celebrates life’s wonderful contrasts, which we see so clearly as we settle into our new surroundings. The yarn itself is beautifully dichotomous, combining two fibers both known for their quiet strength and luxurious drape – Blue Faced Leicester wool and silk. The back-to-basics palette revitalizes perennial favorite colors – no speckles, no fades, just good old semi-solids in irresistible shades inspired by nature. Some of my favorite designers from all over the world have contributed to this collection of varied and versatile knitwear. Whether you’re at home or away, settled or wandering, my wish is for Homecoming to engage your heart and hands with beauty and comfort. Happy knitting!

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Homecoming


Ammon was revered in Ancient Egypt as King of the gods. He was represented in human form with a ram's head. The shawl's outstanding swirl is a homage to the graphic beauty of the curves and lines of ram horns. Wear it with pride, dignity and determination, as Ammon wore his ram attributes.

by

Ammon Julie

Dubreux


Ammon

by Julie Dubreux Size One Size Top edge: 175 cm/69". Bottom edge: 280 cm/ 110". Deepest point: 50 cm/20". Yarn 1 skein each in 3 colors of Aubrey Sport by Martin’s Lab (55% SW BFL, 45% Silk; 300 m/328 yds per 100g). Shown in colorways Anthracite, C1; Lappato, C2; Honeycomb, C3. Needles 4.0 mm/US #6 or size needed for gauge; 100 cm/40” circular needle Other 14 stitch markers, tapestry needle Gauge 17 sts and 36 rows = 10 cm/4” in Garter stitch worked flat, after blocking. 12 sts and 24 rows = 10 cm/4” in two-color Brioche stitch worked flat, after blocking. The gauge isn’t crucial on this project, but differences will affect the finished size as well as the required yardage.

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Bezel by

Justyna

Lorkowska


I love how knitting on the bias can take the ordinary and turn it on edge! Here, simple two-tone stripes become much more as they're nestled together in a tuck stitch pattern. Whether you choose bold contrast or subtle color shifts, the flattering diagonal design in this unisex bandana provides eye-catching style, function, and fun!


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Bezel

by Justyna Lorkowska Size One size Approx. circumference: 63 cm/24.75”. Center Depth: 52 cm/20.5”. Back Neck Depth: 25 cm/10”. Yarn 1 skein each in 2 colors of Aubrey Sport by Martin’s Lab (55% SW BFL, 45% Silk; 300 m/328 yds per 100g). Shown in colorways Rippling Effect, LC; Sherwood, DC. Needles 3.75 mm/US #5 or size needed for gauge; 80 cm/32" circular needle Other tapestry needle for weaving, blocking wires and blocking pins Gauge 22 sts and 24 rows = 10 cm/4" in Double Tuck Stitch worked flat, after washing. The gauge isn’t crucial on this project, but differences will affect the finished size as well as the required yardage.

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Feel the coming Spring with the comfortable familiarity of a triangular shawl refreshed with a unique asymmetrical side-to-side construction. Lilies of The Valley will blossom row after row until they drape gracefully around your shoulders.

Bloom Time by

Christelle

Nihoul


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Bloom

Time

by Christelle Nihoul

Size One Size Top edge: 192 cm/75.5". Depth: 88 cm/34.75". Yarn 3 skeins of Aubrey Sport by Martin’s Lab (55% SW BFL, 45% Silk; 300 m/328 yds per 100g). Shown in colorway Pearl. Needles 4 mm/US #6 or size needed for gauge; 80 cm/32” circular needle Other stitch marker, crochet hook, tapestry needle, blocking supplies Gauge 20 sts and 29 rows = 10 cm/4” in Dot Stitch worked flat after blocking, stretched The gauge isn’t crucial on this project, but differences will affect the finished size as well as the required yardage.

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by

Mirallat

Woolly

Wormhead


Mirallat is a Hat of reflection, of symmetry, and of opposites. Worked sideways, the construction method used isn't the more familiar sideways method that knitters may know from Woolly's designs. Instead this Hat is knit sideways without short rows for shaping, using increases and decreases to create the Hat form. This construction is highlighted perfectly by the stripe formation, and here is where you will discover the short rows - in the colourwork. Mirallat is an adventure in Hat knitting that results in a highly unusual and very wearable Hat.


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Mirallat by Woolly Wormhead

Sizes S (M, L) To fit Child (Adult, Large Adult) Finished brim circumference: 38.5 (41.5, 44.5) cm/15.5 (16.5, 17.75)”. Finished Length: 28 (30, 32.5) cm/11.25 (12, 13)”. Note: Instructions and stitch counts are the same for all sizes; sizing is achieved by adjusting needle size and gauge. Garter stitch turned sideways makes the hat stretchy. Yarn 1 skein each in 2 colors of Aubrey Sport by Martin’s Lab (55% SW BFL, 45% Silk; 300 m/328 yds per 100g). Shown in colorways Kimono (A) and Picnic (B). Needles 2.5 mm (2.75 mm, 3 mm)/US#1.5 (US#2, US#2.5) or size needed to obtain gauge for your hat size; 60 cm/24” circular needle Two circular needles (for cast on), one or two sizes smaller than working needle Other 2 stitch markers, tapestry needle Gauge Size S: 28 sts and 60 rows = 10 cm/4” in Garter stitch on needle size 2.5mm/US #1.5 Size M: 26 sts and 56 rows = 10 cm/4” in Garter stitch on needle size 2.75mm/US#2 Size L: 24 sts and 52 rows = 10 cm/4” in Garter stitch on needle size 3mm/US#2.5 Note: Due to the unique construction of this hat, row gauge is the important factor, as this determines the circumference. Stitch gauge affects the depth of the hat. Any recalculation of gauge will be based on 156 sts (ear to ear, over the head) x 232 rows (brim circumference).

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Named after the Sumerian goddess of grain and harvest, and inspired by memories of childhood vacations spent exploring sun-dappled paths and winding streams through seemingly endless fields, this cowl reflects the intricacy of nature in its distinctive and engaging textured pattern, and adds a versatile, fun-to-wear piece to any wardrobe.

by

Nisaba

Asja

Janeczek


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Nisaba by Asja Janeczek

Size One Size Finished circumference: 125 cm/50”. Depth: 35 cm/13.75”. Yarn 3 skeins of Aubrey Sport by Martin’s Lab (55% SW BFL, 45% Silk; 300 m/328 yds per 100g). Shown in colorway Banyan. Needles 4.0 mm/US 6 or size needed for gauge; 80 cm/32” circular needle Other 1 stitch marker, waste yarn in contrasting color, crochet hook similar in size to working needle, 2 dpns (smaller than working needle), tapestry needle Gauge 19 sts and 36 rows/rnds = 10 cm/4” in Garter stitch, after blocking 6 sts and 22 rows = 2 x 6 cm/0.75 x 2.5” in Ear of Grain pattern (1 pattern repeat) The gauge isn’t crucial on this project, but differences will affect the finished size as well as the required yardage.

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Simple but effective, this twisted taffy cable is staggered across the hat to form a casual, interesting pattern. The rolled brim is snug enough to keep the hat comfortably in place with a relaxed feel.

by

Rooted

Carol

Feller


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Rooted by Carol Feller

Sizes Medium (Large) To fit head circumference up to 56 (61) cm/22 (24)”. 5-7.5 cm/2-3” negative ease recommended Finished brim circumference: 47.5 (52.5) cm/19 (21)”. Yarn 1 skein of Aubrey Sport by Martin’s Lab (55% SW BFL, 45% Silk; 300 m/328 yds per 100g). Shown in colorway Fox Tail. Approximate yardage: 165 (252) m/180 (275) yds Needles 3 mm/US #2.5 or size needed for gauge; 40 cm/16” circular needle & dpns Other 6 stitch markers, cable needle, tapestry needle Gauge 26 sts and 38 rnds = 10 cm/4” in Reverse St st worked in the round after blocking Cable Chart measures 15 cm/6” across at widest point

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Sine is an ode to yarn. A simple, asymmetrical triangle shawl in the simplest of all stitches: Garter. It is inspired by a little, blue lake in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by a dense forest full of spruce – and by a few white clouds, sailing above them all.

by

Sine

Jonna

Hietala


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Sine

by Jonna Hietala Size One size Top edge: 140 cm/55". Depth: 61 cm/24". Yarn 3 skeins in MC and 1 skein in CC of Aubrey Sport by Martin’s Lab (55% SW BFL, 45% Silk; 300 m/328 yds per 100g). Shown in colorways Cape Starling, MC; Pearl, CC. Needles 6.5 mm /US #10.5 or size needed for gauge; 80cm/32” circular needle (or longer) Other tapestry needle Gauge 16.5 sts and 28 rows = 10 cm/4” in Garter stitch with yarn held double, after blocking The gauge isn’t crucial on this project, but differences will affect the finished size as well as the required yardage.

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Bias knit fabric is one of my favorites to play with, both for its drape and form-fitting qualities and for the way it mixes up traditional patterns into something fresh and new. Here, I combined some sweet and old-fashioned colorwork motifs with bold stripes, unusual shaping, and unexpected colors to make a pair of mitts that are truly one of a kind (or two of a pair!).

Tennant

by

Bristol 69

Ivy


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Tennant by Bristol Ivy

Size One Size (Adult) Finished circumference: 18 cm/7", unstretched. Length: 28 cm/11". Yarn 1 skein each in 2 colors of Aubrey Sport by Martin’s Lab (55% SW BFL, 45% Silk; 300 m/328 yds per 100g). Shown in colorways Sable, MC; Youthful Coral, CC. Needles 3.25 mm/US #3 or size needed for gauge; in preferred method for small circumference knitting (80 cm/32” circular needle or dpns) 2.75 mm/US #2 or one size smaller than gauge needles; in preferred method for small circumference knitting (80 cm/32” circular needle or dpns) Other 2 stitch markers, stitch holders or waste yarn, spare needle in same or smaller size as smaller needle (for BO), tapestry needle Gauge 28 sts and 36 rows/rnds = 10 cm/4” in St st (blocked, unstretched) 27 sts and 25 rnds = 10 cm/4” in colorwork Take time to save time – check your gauge. If necessary, adjust needle size to obtain the correct gauge.

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I chose the beautiful soft grey to showcase the graceful folds of the body and the dark grey to highlight the regularity of the houses. I wanted to contrast that with something more rigid but not permanent. I had been inspired by some beach huts that I had seen when visiting France and thought that they would be the ideal juxtaposition. The name Woodrow comes from the old English meaning a row of houses by a wood.

by

Woodrow

Isabell

Kraemer


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Woodrow by Isabell Kraemer

Sizes XS (S, M)[L, XL, XXL] Finished bust circumference: 90 (98.5, 108.5) [115, 121.5, 131] cm/36 (39.25, 43.25)[46, 48.75, 52.25]”. Sample is shown in size S on 98 cm/38" bust. See schematic for detailed measurements. Yarn 3 (4, 4)[5, 5, 5) skeins MC and 1 skein CC of Aubrey Sport by Martin’s Lab (55% SW BFL, 45% Silk; 300 m/328 yds per 100g). Shown in colorways Lappato, MC; Anthracite, CC. Needles 3.5 mm/US #4 or size needed for gauge; 40 cm/16” and 80 cm/ 32” circulars and/or dpns 3.25 mm/US #3 or one size smaller than gauge needles; 40 cm/16” and 80 cm/ 32” circulars and/or dpns Other stitch markers, stitch holder or waste yarn, tapestry needle, blocking tools Gauge 24 sts and 35 rnds = 10 cm/4” in St st on larger needles after blocking. Take time to save time – check your gauge. If necessary, adjust needle size to obtain the correct gauge. Finished measurements: A Bust circumference: 90 (98.5, 108.5)[115, 121.5, 131] cm/ 36 (39.25, 43.25)[46, 48.75, 52.25]”. B Upper arm circumference: 28.5 (30, 33.5)[37.5, 39, 41.5] cm/ 11.25 (12, 13.25)[15, 15.75, 16.75]”. C Front neck to armhole:18 (19, 20)[21, 22.5, 23.5] cm/ 7 (7.5, 8)[8.25, 8.75, 9.25]”. D Lower body length: 42 cm/16.5”. E Sleeve length: 45 cm/17.5”. F Hip circumference: 95 (103.5, 113.5)[120, 126.5, 136] cm/38 (41.25, 45.25)[48, 50.75, 54.25]”.

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One of the things I like most about knitting is how the basic can appear intricate, as well as the amazing synergy created by two simple colors. Xander achieves both by interposing an easy and entertaining slip-stitch pattern between broad swaths of color, creating the illusion of a complicated weave in a versatile and easy-to-wear piece. Explore wild color combos or stay on the safe side – 84 regardless, you'll be dressed to impress.


by

Xander

Dieuwke

Schack-Mulligen


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Xander

By Dieuwke Schack-Mulligen Size One Size Wingspan: approx. 156 cm/61.5”. Depth at center: approx. 75 cm / 29.5”. Yarn 1 skein each in 2 colors of Aubrey Sport by Martin’s Lab (55% SW BFL, 45% Silk; 300 m/328 yds per 100g). Shown in colorways Marilyn, C1; Lappato, C2. Needles 3.75 mm/US #5 or size needed for gauge; 80 cm/32” circular needle Other 3 stitch markers (including 1 removable), tapestry needle Gauge 16.5 sts and 29 rows = 10 cm/4” in St st worked flat, after blocking. The gauge isn’t crucial on this project, but differences will affect the finished size as well as the required yardage.

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by

Ziggy

Justyna

Lorkowska


Expect the unexpected with this cardigan that combines comfortable familiarity with delightful detail, exceptional warmth with beautiful drape, functional design with luxurious beauty. The oceanic colorway evokes images of the deep even while your feet are planted on terra firma, whether you're striding purposefully in town or wandering aimlessly through the countryside.


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Ziggy

by Justyna Lorkowska Sizes XS (S, M)[L, XL, XXL] Back width at bust: 37 (42, 48)[52, 56.5, 61.5] cm/14.75 (16.75, 19.25)[20.75, 22.5, 24.5]”. The cardigan is intended to be worn open with little or no ease across the back. Choose the size which measures approximately half your actual bust measurement or a little more. Shown in size M on 98 cm/38” bust. See schematic for measurements. Yarn 4 (5, 5)[6, 6, 7) skeins of Aubrey Sport by Martin’s Lab (55% SW BFL, 45% Silk; 300 m/328 yds per 100g). Shown in colorway Poseidon. Needles 3.75 mm/US #5 or size required for gauge; 80 cm/32” circular needle and dpns 3.5 mm/US #4 or one size smaller than gauge needles; 80 cm/32” circular needle and dpns Other 6 stitch markers (4 for raglan, 2 contrasting for front bands), stitch holders/scrap yarn, tapestry needle Gauge 24 sts and 34 rows = 10 cm / 4” in St st worked flat with larger needles. Take time to save time - check your gauge. If necessary, adjust needle size to obtain the correct gauge. Finished Measurements: A Bust circumference (excluding bands): 62 (71.5, 81.5)[89.5, 99.5, 109.5] cm/24.75 (28.5, 32.5) [35.75, 39.75, 43.75]” B Sleeve circumference: 26.5 (28.5, 31.5)[34, 37.5, 41.5] cm/10.75 (11.25, 12.75)[13.75, 15, 16.75]”. C Yoke depth: 15 (16.5, 19)[21, 24.5, 26] cm/6 (6.75, 7.5)[8.5, 9.75, 10.25]”. D Length from underarm: 45 cm/18”. E Sleeve length: 45 cm/18”. F Hips circumference: 75.5 (84.5, 94.5)[103, 113, 123]cm/30.25 (33.75, 37.75)[41.25, 45.25, 49.25]” G Lace panel width: 18 cm/7.25”.

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Designer Bio Julie Dubreux is a French knitwear designer and knitting instructor. Her enthusiastic love for the knitting community translates into colorful collaborations with indie dyers from all around the world. Her designs have been published in Pom Pom Quarterly. Find her on Ravelry and Instagram as @julieknitsinparis. julieknitsinparis.com

Designer Bio Asja Janeczek is a Polish knitwear designer based in Germany. A trained psychologist soon after she moved to her new home abroad, she chose a creative path of a knitter... and she has been knitting ever since. She explores different approaches to garment construction and enjoys working on timeless pieces. She is a huge fan of short rows technique and seamless knitting. She believes in the positive impact of knitting on both physical and mental health, and considers it one of the most restorative and enriching hobbies. asjaknits@gmail.com

Designer Bio Woolly Wormhead is a Hat architect. With an instinctive flair for unusual construction and a passion for innovation, Woolly Wormhead is a designer whose patterns are trusted and celebrated by knitters all over the world. As a designer, Woolly is driven by a need to create and develop her understanding of 3D form. Communicating her ideas and sharing her specialized knowledge with her audiences is key to Woolly’s success as a designer. Woolly’s high quality pattern writing ensures perfect results, teaches new skills and encourages us all to become Hat architects. www.woollywormhead.com

Designer Bio Jonna Hietala is the Editor in Chief of Laine Magazine who – every now and then – likes to come up with simple, yet versatile designs. She draws inspiration from the silent nature of Finland: of its never-ending forests and thousands of lakes, of dark winters way too long, and of the first glimpses of sun. She never says no to a good cup of coffee and is always ready to take another step on her woolen path. jonna@lainemagazine.com


Designer Bio Justyna is a former teacher and a knitwear fanatic. She learned her first stitches from her mom when she was a teenager, but she gave up knitting soon afterwards. Having her first baby brought back her passion with great impact, and this time she also started designing knitwear for adults and children. Her patterns have been published in many popular knitting magazines, and she has also returned to teaching, but this time her students are eager knitters in classrooms all over the world. She lives with her husband and two kids in a small village in Poland. Her patterns can be found on Ravelry on the Lete's Knits designer page or on her website letesknits.com support@letesknits.com

Photo (c) Kate O’Sullivan

Designer Bio Carol Feller (stolenstitches.com) is a designer, teacher, and author living in Cork, Ireland. She has published almost 300 patterns and 8 books, including Short Row Knits (Pottercraft) and Contemporary Irish Knits (Wiley), and is a popular instructor on www.mybluprint.com/ with almost 400,000 students. She regularly teaches in yarn shops, fibre festivals, knitting retreats and tours, covering a wide variety of basic and advanced skills. Carol trained as a textile artist, and then as a structural engineer. Both of these backgrounds influence her work, which uses innovative construction methods to create well-shaped and flattering objects that are intuitive and enjoyable to knit, and that make the most out of carefully chosen yarns. She strives to help knitters create beautiful and unique products that they will love to use.

Designer Bio I’m a knitwear designer born in Belgium, but “Jack of All Trades” is probably a more suited title. From preschool, where I learned to knit, crochet, knead bread, to my grandmother’s table, where I learned to trace sewing patterns, I’ve been crafting for as long as I can remember. With the help of my husband, and amateur photographer, and my three reluctant models, I founded a small company based on our passions of photography and design. Finding inspiration in colors, “haute couture”, fashion, nature, architecture (amongst so many other things), I now spend my days publishing patterns and ebooks for fashion-forward knitters. I look forward to sharing my journey with you. contact@christallk.com


Klaudia

Oliwia


Designer Bio Bristol Ivy is a knitting designer, teacher, and author from Portland, Maine. Her work has been published with PomPom Magazine, Quince & Co., Making Magazine, and her own eponymous pattern line. She has taught at such events as Squam Art Workshops, Edinburgh Yarn Festival, and Vogue Knitting Live, as well as yarn shops worldwide. Her recent book, Knitting Outside the Box with PomPom Press, explores her lifelong commitment to breaking rules and finding beauty in unexpected places. When not knitting, she’s sewing, running, watching far too many British murder mysteries, and baking a mean loaf of oatmeal honey bread. Find her online at bristolivy.com, bristol@bristolivy.com, and on Instagram and Twitter as @bristolivy.

Designer Bio German knitwear designer Isabell Kraemer creates everyday items for modern knitters. Loving the outdoors, she is heavily influenced by nature; and those who know her designs love her casual, contemporary pieces that all come with a little twist. Known for creating garments with seamless, top down construction (often with fantastically executed stripes), we love that her designs are casual, enjoyable and non-fussy to knit, and easily flattering to a range of body types. Isabell has a knack for taking the simplest of elements, working them into classic shapes, and creating a fresh take on the everyday sweater (and shawl,....and yes, even a cape) grasfleckenbylilalu@gmail.com

Designer Bio Dieuwke started knitting at a young age, learning the magic her grandmother worked every time she created a garment for one of her children or grandchildren. Since childhood, she kept the knitting close to heart, picking it up at regular intervals. Working in digital marketing by day, knitting and designing are her main hobbies and second job. She loves trying out new constructions and techniques, which often results in new design inspiration. Her main focus is on functional wardrobe additions that she would use herself, generating a wide range of women’s garments and accessories. patternsupport@knitterskitchen.com


Aubrey Sport Lappato

Banyan

Fox

Sable

Pearl

Tail


Youthful Coral

Marilyn

Anthracite

Kimono


Rippling Effect

Picnic

Sherwood Cape Starling

Poseidon Honeycomb


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