â€™s Styling Dictionary FIRST EDITION
"Style is the perfection of a point of view." Richard Eberhart
A-Bo BEDFORD CORD a sturdy fabric that is “corded” or ridged, vertically, but does not have wale like corduroy (see WALE, not the rapper)
A LINE SKIRT top choice of female secretaries, tight at the waist and gets larger as it goes to the bottom, like an capital A ALPACA often synonymous with llama, but with long silky soft hairs
BELLOWS POCKET a pocket with a flat or gusseted front and bellows pleat at each side where it joins the body of the garment
ANKLE BOOT this isn’t rocket science, it’s boot that cuts off at your ankle
BEMBERG high quality woven rayon lining
ANORAK like a parka but pullover style because it’s sans front zipper
BENGAL STRIPES See BALANCED STRIPE BERMUDA SHORTS Long ass shorts, worn by preppy boys or dads on the beach
APPLIQUÉ slapping pieces of fabric together to make big ones ARAN off white sweater made with undyed wool - soops basic
BESOM/WELT POCKETS slit pockets with welted trim
ARGYLE diamond pattern most commonly seen on nerdy sweater vests
BIRD’S-EYE traditional woven pattern that looks like small dots, usually in wool for suitings, or in silk for neckwear
ASCOT that orange scarf thing freddy wears on scooby doo
BITE steal decision from someone, could be a style or look
AWNING STRIPES visualize awning. now imagine awning with stripes. place that pattern to scale on garment
BLACK TIE attire for a formal event, james bond type shit BLACK WATCH some kind of fancy plaid popular with scots
BALANCED JACKET the perfect tailored jacket that hugs you in all the right places
BLAZER if you don’t know what a blazer is, this book is now your bible, sit yo ass down
BALANCED STRIPE stripes where the background stripe and stripe are equal in width
BLIND BUTTONHOLES fake buttonholes on ready to wear jackets and coats
BANDED COLLAR a collar that does not fold over or form points
BOLERO JACKET waist length jacket that is open at the front
BANDEAU/TUBE TOP strip of fabric that wraps around chest, usually elastic, seamless
BOOT CUT pant style that tapers at knee and then flares out a little for boots
BARLEYCORN pebbly looking sweaters BCBG “Bon Chic, Bon Genre.” french for stylin’ with old money BEADED STRIPE a suiting fabric with stripes that look like solid chalk stripe from afar but lines are actually a series of dots when viewed up close
A garment that is custom-made. An individual pattern is created specifically according to the clients measurements and shape, then sewn from the fabric he chooses. (hence “bespoke” to indicate the fabric has been spoken for), and fitted on his body.
Bo-Ca BOMBER JACKET the classic bomb ass fuck leather jacket, just think tom cruise in top gun. created in the late 1940s for the air force BOUTONNIERE french. a cute ass pin or flower you stick in the buttonhole of your jacket lapel BOWTIE cute ass necktie that ties in the shape of a bow BOX PLEAT a pleat made from making a defined symmetrical fold of material that is then flattened so the top looks square BOXY square-like; with minimal tailoring BRACES british. suspenders. BROADCLOTH shirting fabric in a plain weave that has a very slight horizontal rib BROGUES fancy holes made in dress shoes
CAVALRY TWILL a sturdy, usually cotton fabric intended for casual wear CAMEL’S HAIR fabric made from camel hair, super soft and super fine. prized for sportcoats and topcoats CAMP SHIRT a short sleeve casual button up shirt. may have patch pockets on the chest. usually cropped, with a straight bottom, worn untucked CANVAS CONSTRUCTION the inner layer of a tailored jacket - connotes the use of canvas for all or part of the interfacing CAMP MOC think of jackets at an L.L. Bean campsite CAMISOLE a short, sleeveless, skimpy shirt CAP SLEEVES a sleeve that sits in the awkward grey area between sleeveless and short
BROKEN STRIPE See BEADED STRIPE. BUFFALO PLAID/BUFFALO CHECK visualize lumberjack in red and black checkered plaid
CAPRI PANTS think early 2000’s pants from The Limited Too that are skinny and cut off at the knee or lower calf.
BUTTON DOWN COLLAR SHIRT See BLAZER.
CARGO your junk. CARGO PANTS pants with large pockets to hold your junk.
CAR COAT outerwear, longer and less fitted than sport coat, straight through waist, made for long periods of sitting
CARPENTER PANTS work pant usually made of denim or cotton duck cloth. They are in a jeans construction with wide legs. They feature tool loops from which actual tools can be hung.
CHINOS originally a style of military uniform trousers. Refers to plain-fronted (unpleated) trousers similar to those worn as part of a suit. Come in any color, but traditionally a light beige.
Ca-De COLLAR POINTS the points of your collar COLLAR STAYS small pieces of plastic or flexible metal that slide in the space stitched along the underside of your collar to keep your collar points fresh COP to steal
WHO James Brudenell, the seventh Earl of Cardigan WHY He may have been described as arrogant and extravagant, but the garment named after James Brudenell—who led the infamous Charge of the Light Brigade during the Crimean War in the 1850s—is the humble cardigan, which was designed to keep British soldiers toasty-warm during brutal Russian winters. CASHMERE a natural fiber which comes from the undercoat of the cashmere goat. Cashmere is classified as a “noble” fiber prized for its extreme fineness, warmth, and its light weight CHALK STRIPE a broad vertical stripe. Used usually in woolen fabrics for suitings, it is wider than a pinstripe CHAMBRAY an inexpensive, plain-weave fabric often make of cotton. It has a light blue appearance from blending a blue warp and white weft CHAMOIS a type of very soft leather CHESTERFIELD the most traditional overcoat. a relatively dressy style of topcoat reserved for wearing over a suit CHIEF VALUE used to designate the major component in a blended fabric CIRCLE SCARF an scarf that is one complete loop
CORDUROYS sturdy woven fabric distinguished by velvety, vertical ribs called wales (see WALE, not the rapper) COVERT CLOTH a densely woven wool twill worn for hunting shit and protection from being scratched or cut by tree branches COWICHAN SWEATER a wool sweater whose designs, commonly animals, buildings, or shapes, are the weaver’s way of showcasing their heritage—a signature of sorts CREWNECK a style of high round neck seen most often in knits and sweaters CROTCH BLOWOUT when a pair of pants wears out in the crotch area and creates a hole CUFFLINKS fancy button like jewelry you stick into french cuffs (see FRENCH CUFF) CUMMERBUND fancy pleated sash worn across the stomach, most commonly seen at awkward proms and weddings DART folds sewn into fabric to take in ease and provide shape to a garment DENIM jean fabric. twill fabric made from cotton and indigo warp and an uncolored natural fill (see JEANS) DESERT BOOT the young british soldier’s wartime distraction, eventually becoming the inspiration for one of the world’s most recognizable shoes
Di-Fu DIRNDL SKIRT a full, wide skirt with a tight, fitted waistline
FITTED CAP depends, can be considered a douche hat
DINNER JACKET basically a tuxedo jacket that doesn’t match the trouser pants
M-51 FISHTAIL PARKA is a Cold War-era U.S. military coat, with an aquatic-inspired “tail” that’s the source of its commonly used moniker
DOUBLE BREASTED two rows of buttons (See image of TRENCH COAT, MAC COAT) DROP the difference between the chest measurement and the waist measurement DUFFLE COAT a jacket made from duffel, a coarse, thick, woolen material, often has wooden or horn toggle fastenings (known as “walrus teeth”) with rope or leather loops to attach them to EGYPTIAN COTTON long staple cotton cultivated in Egypt. rich people have bed sheets in excess in this END-ON-END fabric most often used for shirts, constructed so that the warp alternates between blue and white yarns, giving a textured appearance EISENHOWER JACKET a waist length fitted style of tailored jacket, styled after the jacket worn by General Eisenhower EPAULETS a decorative shoulder adornment FAIR ISLE patterned sweater using motifs from the Fair Isles, off the coast of Scotland FANCY OR FANCIES literally any pattern on a shirt FLAME to insult someone for comedic purposes FLAT-FRONT Term used to refer to bottoms without pleats FEDORA EHHH DEPENDS FILIGREE ornamental work of fine wire with tiny beads FIT the totality of your outfit, how well your shit hugs you
FLEE good FLEEK on point or perfected FLARE JEAN really popular jeans from the nineties that flared out at the bottom, like trying to make bell bottoms cool again but not really FLOATING CANVAS a canvas interlining that is placed by hand, rather than fused to the shell fabric. A mark of a more labor intensive, finer quality garment FLY 1. a fabric flap that hides the closure system of a garment, such a zipper fly, which is the flap covering the zipper 2. dope FOULARD a type of very small scale, symmetrical pattern, often printed on the silk used for traditional neckwear, and dressing robes FOUR-IN-HAND the most traditional method of tying a necktie produces the slimmest knot and uses the least amount of the tie FRENCH CUFF a style of shirtsleeve that ends at the wrist with a wide, double-length cuff that folds back on itself, and is fastened at the wrist with cufflinks. considered a dressier more elegant style of shirtsleeve FUCKS WIT to enjoy FULL CANVAS in the construction of traditional tailored clothing, refers to a jacket made all or in part with woven interfacing FULL-FASHIONED a knit garment that is shaped and made to fit more three dimensionally, as opposed to being cut and sewn
Fu-Ja FURNISHINGS anything that isn’t actual apparel, such as neckties, ascots, belts, small leather goods, includes dress shirts, underwear, and socks
HEALTH GOTH super trendy style of 2014/15, monochromatic - black and white athletic wear. Adidas, HBA, Alexander Wang, etc
GARMENT-DYED refers to a dying process which involves dipping the entire finished garment in the dye
HENLEY collarless pullover shirt with 2-5 buttons down the top of the front, essentially a collarless polo
GINGHAM a type of plainweave fabric, most often made of cotton or cotton-blend
HERRINGBONE a V-shaped zig zap weave resembling the skeleton of a herring fish
GLOW UP to move up in the world, to improve
HIKING BOOT these days has a much heartier, mountain man aesthetic to it. think about what Sir Edmund Hillary wore as he conquered Everest, tone that down a touch, and you’ve got the makings of the hiking boot
GREY GOODS industry jargon referring to textiles that have not been dyed or finished GUN FLAP a flap of fabric added to the right shoulder of a jacket or coat as a way of reinforcing it against the butt of a rifle, in contemporary use, still found on traditional trench coats HACKING JACKET a tailored jacket for horseback riding. Has a fitted body and high armhole with a longer skirt, and flapped breast pocket and flapped bottom pockets, single vented at the back for comfort in riding
HOLOGRAPHIC shiny and reflective (see IRIDESCENT) HOPSACK a simply woven fabric made of thick yarns, meant to resemble burlap HYPEBEAST people who are obsessed with trendy street wear brands and sneakers
HALF WINDSOR KNOT a method of tying a necktie so that it results in a medium-sized knot. Thicker than a four-in-hand, but thinner than a full Windsor knot HALF-ZIP a style of top or outerwear in which the zipper is placed front and center and doesn’t extend down the front.
INSEAM measurement of the seam that runs on the inside of the leg, from the crotch to the hem of a pant leg
HAND short for “handle”. the feel and drape of the fabric
INVERTED PLEAT a fold of fabric that goes inward toward the body, instead of belling out away from the body
HARRIS TWEED type of heavy wool , popular for outerwear and sportcoats, is best known in a two-color herringbone twill of off-white, and near black HAWAIIAN SHIRTS a mix of Japanese, Filipino, American, and native Hawaiian influences, the quintessential Aloha shirt
IRIDESCENT shiny with different colors from different angels (see HOLOGRAPHIC) JACQUARD a method of weaving with intricate patterning built into the weave in a time and cost efficient manner
Jo-Mo JOHNNY COLLAR a style of shirt sporting a small v-neck with an attached collar, somewhat like a polo collar JEANS very casual denim trousers, typically informal but now ok paired with sport coats JOUY PRINT a white or offwhite background on which a repeated pattern, depicting a detailed scene, appears KHAKIS super casual office trousers that are typically in a beige color. originally uniform of british forces LEGGINGS skin tight garment that covers legs, thicker than pantyhose LOCKER LOOP the extra loop, made of fabric, on the center back of a shirt, especially of a button-down shirt, can be used to hang the shirt in a locker
The Mao Jacket
WHO Mao Zedong WHY Instantly recognizable for its high collar and perfectly square pockets, the austere and downright drab design of the Mao jacket was a reaction to the elaborate Manchu garb that preceded Chairman Mao’s administration in 1945. While the jacket became less common in the nineties (as Western-style suits gained favor with Chinese businessmen), political leaders still sport the occasional Mao suit during important political functions.
MAKING MOVES to decide MANDARIN COLLAR a small, close fitting and upright collar. originating from traditional Chinese garments, it is used to create a minimalist feel MARCELLA a white cotton material used for evening shirts
The Mac Coat
WHO Charles Macintosh WHY A chemist who experimented with rubberized textiles as early as 1819. While looking for practical uses for gasworks waste, he discovered that coal tar naphtha (a colorless, flammable liquid known as benzene) could dissolve India rubber. Four years later, Macintosh patented a waterproof fabric specially suited to Britain’s damp and drizzle and soon began manufacturing woolcloth coats that were coated in dissolved rubber.
MESH web/net like material, very popular material seen in the Health Goth fashion trend MICROFIBER a fabric that is composed of ultrafine, manmade yarns, usually polyester MERINO a type of fine sheep’s wool. Very silky, crimped wool, usually very lightweight fabrics or knits for sweaters MOLESKIN a woven fabric with a soft, suede-like surface MOTORCYCLE JACKET a leather jacket popular with bikers and anyone else tryna be a badass
Clothing that is sewn from a standard-sized base pattern. A tailored suit is a common example of a made-to-measure garment. The fit of a madeto-measure garment is expected to be superior to that of a ready-to-wear garment, because ready-to-wear garments are constructed to fit the manufacturer’s definition of an average customer, while made-to-measure garments are constructed to fit each customer individually.
NOTCH COLLAR notched lapels, formed at the collar and lapel of a jacket or coat NUBUCK any leather that has been buffed on its grain side, the outside of the animal, so that its surface has a slight nap, and somewhat resembles suede OFFSHORE INDUSTRY goods produced outside of the United States
NATURAL SHOULDER having no padding or light padding in the shoulders of jackets
OMBRE literally “shaded”. anything varying in color from dark to light
NEATS patterns with evenly-spaced designs. Very smallscale prints with simple, small repeats. Today, they appear most often in the patterns of neckwear
OOTD outfit of the day, very popular hashtag on instagram
NEOPRENE a synthetic fabric that resembles rubber
OVERDYED refers to a fabric that is dyed again after being woven or assembled into apparel, usually to give it a special tint OVERSHIRT a long-sleeved shirt that is used like a jacket or layering piece OXFORD CLOTH a sturdy plain weave of cotton. The major fabric used to make button-down collar shirts
The Nehru Jacket
WHO Jawaharlal Nehru WHY Prime Minister Nehru, who took office in 1947, may have lent his name to the shorter, suit-like version of the South Asian achkan, which typically extended to the knees, but it didn’t become popular in the West until mod icons like the Beatles and the Monkees (and apparently James Bond, too, as pictured at left) began sporting Nehrus for concerts. NOBLE FIBERS fine expensive animal fibers (See ALPACA, CASHMERE, or VICUNA) NORMCORE grandpa style
PAD STITCHING a tailor’s construction stitch used to join layers of fabric by hand, but doesn’t show in the finished garment. The most important function of the pad stitch is to create the roll of the lapel and the collar PAISLEY a pattern distinguished by the teardrop-shaped motif known as paisley PANAMA HAT was an Ecuadorian secret until the sixteenth century when Conquistadors, on their way to the mythical El Dorado, began wearing them PATCH POCKET a pocket created by sewing an extra piece of fabric on the outside of the garment PEACOAT the classic doublebreasted jacket, sits at the hip
Pe-Ru PEAK LAPELS refers to the style of jacket lapel that flares, or “peaks” upward PEEP notice PEN POCKET a pocket, usually less than an inch wide, in the lining of a suit jacket for a pen PENCIL STRIPE a stripe that is the width of a carpenter’s pencil mark. Wider than a pinstripe but narrower than a bengal stripe PIECE GOODS a bolt of cloth PIGMENT-DYED a method of dyeing fabric so it purposely fades the more it is washed, popular for jeans PILE any fabric with a raised surface with loops that are cut (as in velvet) or uncut ( as in terry cloth) PINCHECK a very small, pin sized squared check, appears most often in shirtings and neckwear, formed by weaving PINSTRIPES a stripe that is width of a pin. a favorite of mobsters and rum-runners during the Prohibition Era
POCKET SQUARE nice fabric squares that serve no purpose but to look good, worn in the breast pocket of a suit POLO COLLAR think country club golf players and their polo ralph lauren shirts POPOVER a long or short sleeved casual shirt that is a cross between a polo and a dress shirt THE PUFFER JACKET super puffy jackets that no one actually wants to wear out in public but have to because its the only way to effectively stay warm RATCHET a hot mess REPEAT PATTERN a repeat is the size of a single complete pattern before it begins again RISE the measurement in inches, from the crotch seam to the waistband RUGBY SHIRT the ideal shirt for rugby, made of thick cotton jersey with a white collar, longsleeved and good for a tustle
PINWALE CORDUROY with wales the width of a pin (see WALE and CORDUROY) PIQUE a woven fabric distinguished by a waffle-patterned surface; appears often as the bib front of formal dress shirts PLACKET n extra layer of fabric that covers the opening of a garment, intended to cover closures such as zippers or buttons PLAIN FRONT PANTS designed without any pleats or gathers in the waistband PLEAT FRONT pants with pleats on either side of the fly POCKETING FABRIC used to construct the interior of pockets
The Raglan Shirt
WHO FitzRoy James Somerset, the first Baron Raglan WHY After losing an arm at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, the first Baron Raglan ordered a special shirt that could fit over his coat to hide his lost limb. The result—a shirt with sleeves that extended in a single piece up to the collar with no shoulder seam—is popularly referred to as a baseball/raglan tee.
Sa-Sn SACK SUIT a loose-fitting suit, with little or no shaping through the body and a natural shoulder SADDLE SHOULDER a shoulder seam that combines characteristics of a set-in sleeve and a raglan; used in knitwear (See image of RAGLAN SHIRT) SAFARI JACKET is a cross between a shooting jacket and a military field jacket, perfectly suited for the escalating temperatures of the african countryside SARTORIA an Italian word that roughly translates as “tailoring” SATIN STRIPE a pattern of alternating shine and matte created by the fabric’s weave SAVILE ROW an street in London as well as a symbol of british style. the very best of bespoke tailoring and the best known and best-regarded masters of the craft of tailoring SCREENPRINTED a printing technique that uses a woven mesh to support an ink-blocking stencil to receive a desired image SEERSUCKER a thin, vertically striped puckered, cotton fabric SELVEDGE denim made by using one continuous cross-yarn, they are woven or knit so that they will not fray, ravel, or curl SEVEN FOLD TIE a style of necktie made by hand without a lining or interlining. the tie falls more freely and loosely yields a less perfect and less rigid knot SHANKED BUTTON a button with a small loop or tail underneath, so that the thread attaching the button to the garment is not visible SHARKSKIN a crisp wool and wool blend for suits composed of black and white threads that create a gray, hence the supposed resemblance to a shark’s skin
SHAWL COLLAR the classiest kind of collar, straight with no notch, peaks or sharp indents. seen on tuxedos, dinner jackets and smoking jackets. when on sweaters, they are thick, rounded and chunky SHELL BUTTONS buttons cut from natural shells SHERPA LINING refers to a polyester lining with a deep pile and large, fuzzy “naps” that give it a bumpy texture. similar to real sheep’s wool, but sherpa lining is lighter weight, much less bulky, and faster-drying SILK KNOTS knots of silk cord used as a substitute for cufflinks SINGLE BREASTED a single row of buttons SKINNY JEAN jeans that hug your body very snug and make you look slim SKIRT 1. refers to the portion of a jacket from the waist to the hem 2. a tube or cone shaped garment that hangs from the waist or hips and covers all or part of the legs SLACKS refers to pants that are more casual than dress trousers, but more dressy than jeans SLASH POCKET a pocket entered through a slit in the outside of the garment, as opposed to a patch pocket SMOKING JACKET intended to be worn for entertaining and semi-formal occasions at home, looks and functions as a dressing gown and dinner jacket, Typically made of velvet SNAPBACK adjustable flat brim baseball cap with plastic snaps on the back SNORKEL COAT a jacket that allows the wearer to completely seal off their entire face except for a tiny gap at the top that acts as an air hole
Sp-Tr SPORT COAT a jacket that is not a part of a suit, even though its tailoring is identical. Always worn with unmatched trousers, and is considered a step down in dressiness compared to a suit.
SUPER 100S the fineness of the fiber in a wool cloth; “super” for “superfine”, the number is the fiber micron count, the finer the fiber, the higher its S-number, and the higher the price tag
SPREAD COLLAR a style of shirt collar in which the points of the collar flare outward, rather than pointing downward. Found on dress shirts, and used with thicker neckties which make a wider larger knot when tied.
TAB COLLAR a shirt collar with a small tab of fabric uniting its two sides, so the knot of the necktie is propped up by the tab
SPREZZ short for of sprezzatura, Italian for describing a casual nonchalance exhibited in how one wears their clothing. STAND the inside of a shirt collar, the piece that determines the collar’s height and stiffness.
TAILCOAT a tailed coat for white tie events; in front the coat is cropped to the waistline, in the rear it descends from the waistline to the back of the knee TARTAN plaid THREAD COUNT the amount of yarns or threads, in an inch of fabric. high thread count denotes a higher quality fabric
STEEZ style plus ease. STOVEPIPES slim lined, tight fitting pants, tapered to the ankle. SUITING refers to the fabric not to the finished garments.
THREE PIECE SUIT refers to a suit which includes a vest THROAT LATCH a strap or triangle of cloth attached to the underside of the collar on sports jackets and outerwear TICKET POCKET a small pocket located just above the regular pocket on the right side of a sports jacket, suit coat, or tailored coat TICKING STRIPE any of several simple vertical stripe patterns
The Stetson Hat
WHO John B. Stetson WHY John B. Stetson roamed the wild American West after being diagnosed with tuberculosis and there, he befriended cowboys and cattle drivers, all of whom who favored coonskin caps. The wide-brimmed, felt alternative he dreamed up in 1865—marketed as “the Boss of the Plains”—became an instant sensation, offering shelter from the sun and doubling as a bucket with which to water a horse.
TOPCOAT tailored outerwear usually worn over a suit or some other business or formal attire TOP COLLAR the visible or “right” side of a collar, especially on a coat or jacket TRENCH COAT made famous by burberry; distinguished by its tan or khaki color and doublebreasted front TRILL true and real; badass TROMPE L’OEIL an artistic technique where realistic imagery is used to appear three dimensional
Tr-Yo TROUSERS a tailored pair of pants, a formal garment with a waistband, belt loops, and fly TUXEDO evening suit in formalwear with no tails TUXEDO SHIRT a dress shirt specifically worn with a tuxedo, usually in a pleated front in a bib design, in a marcella or pique. Uses studs and cufflinks
WHO Arthur Wellesley, the first Duke of Wellington WHY In 1815, the Duke of Wellington commissioned a special pair of boots from London shoemaker Hoby of St. James’ Street—a modified leather Hessian with a pointed toe cut closer to the calf (which would fit more snugly in his riding stirrups). Particularly practical for hunting, the boots became de rigeur among the British aristocracy and were eventually manufactured in more durable rubber.
TWEED a word referring to a category of rugged wool fabrics VARSITY JACKET created when the Harvard Baseball team sewed a giant “H” onto their uniform, the “letterman jacket” VENT a split in a garment to allow for movement VICUNA fiber sourced from the coat of the vicuna, from Peru WAISTCOAT the garment that most Americans refer to as a vest, the third part of a three piece suit
WORKSHIRT a long-sleeved sportshirt, made of a sturdy fabric such as denim or chambray, fabrics that literally make it a blue collar style, and utilitarian
WALE the velvety, vertical rib created by weaving a pile fabric, especially in Corduroy
WORSTED the most common fabric of traditionally tailored suits, refers to wool or wool blend that has a smooth surface and no nap
WATCH POCKET a small, shallow pocket for a pocket watch, usually placed on the waist seam of pants on the right side WHITE TIE the most formal of formal evening wear
WOVENS shirts YOKE the piece of fabric that runs across the back of a shirt, from shoulder to shoulder
WICKING a fiber ability to draw moisture away from the body toward the surface of the fabric, where it can evaporate WINDSOR COLLAR a variation of spread collar made to accommodate a windsor knot WINDSOR KNOT the largest of all the knots tied in neckties WING COLLAR a high standing collar in which the front edges are bent down to create “wings”; Often with formal wear
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