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FOCUS, TREND PACKAGE Leong Su Shan (200971354)


Word Count: 3462


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Content

Introduction

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Lifestyle Trend: The Inclusive Generation Spreading positivity

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Target Consumer

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Composed Cammie Her story

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Collection of Style (COS), Brand Story Turning obstacles into possibilities A brand for everyone A brand’s essence and culture that centres on innovation, craftsmanship and design Simplicity, attention to details and collaboration are the three key values to the brand’s success Moving towards a lifestyle brand

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Trend Concept: Focus

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The reasoning behind the trend concept, Focus and the brand, COS Potential business opportunity Cultural influence on COS garments

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Mood Moodboard

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Colour Vision: Sultry Blush Core Colours Accented Colours Netural Colours

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Yarn and Fabrics

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Key Silhouettes

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Complete range plan with colours, fabrics and silhouettes Paperbag ankled trousers Drape skirt Front knot maxi dress Midi-draped dress Coat with kimono sleeves Loose blouse Assymetrical boxy-shaped jumper

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Conclusion

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Appendix Customer Interview: Danielle SchĂźtze Customer Interview: Laura Roura Customer Interview: Ewa

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References and Bibliography

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Picture References

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Figure 1.6 12 Collection of Style


Introduction

This trend forecast report is commissioned for Collection of Style (COS). The aim of this report is to pitch a trend concept to the inhouse design and buying team. As trends arise from issues faced in the modern and turbulent society, this report will cover the vital influence of the lifestyle trend—The Inclusive Generation; in addition to the trend concept— Focus. The trend concept includes a series of textiles, colours, and silhouettes that COS’s in-house design and buying team can take into consideration. Not all trends influence brands in the same way, therefore, Focus is customized to suit COS’s identity and consumer profile.

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Figure 1.7 14 Collection of Style


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The Inclusive Generation

“People hate Muslims and Mexicans, so I figured we

have to stay together” (Kane, 2017) 16 Collection of Style


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Figure 2.0 18 Collection of Style


Lifestyle Trend: The Inclusive Generation

the most

powerful

man on earth

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Lifestyle Trend: The Inclusive Generation

On 20 January 2017, President Trump was officially inaugurated into The White House. He became the 45th President of the United States of America. Since then, United States has shifted drastically as Trump removed plans on climate change, banned immigrants from entering, deported immigrants and has plans to start a nuclear war with North Korea. The escalation of “xenophobic, homophobic, racism and sexism” (Bain, 2016) have resulted in the prevalence of diversity and inclusion in America; and eventually the world. According to Sylvana Storey, a business and organisational change consultant, “ending discrimination and driving inclusion requires more than a training programme, it requires cultural change” (Storey, 2016). For someone to feel included and belonged, society must embrace their differences. “It is a basic human right borne from justice” (Storey, 2016). Spreading positivity Therefore, there has been a series of positive movements spreading around America to bring inclusion and accept one’s differences. A few days after the inauguration, women from across the great nation came together to march for their solidarity, rights and beliefs. It became the “largest, [most peaceful] single day demonstration in recorded U.S. history” (Chenoweth and Pressman, 2017). Sister marches took place around the globe in countries like Antarctica, United Kingdom and Australia in support of this movement. One 7th grade teacher in California has since “made an effort to create an inclusive, sympathetic and informed classroom” (Kane, 2017) by teaching students about the current

events and media bias. A 10-year old American Pakistani boy lost all his white friends but in return, gained new friendships with Hispanics. “People hate Muslims and Mexicans, so I figured we have to stay together” (Kane, 2017). Late night comedy shows like The Daily Show with Trevor Noah and The Late Show with Stephen Colbert share the current situation in America to audiences in an engaging way. Overall, these positive acts clearly displayed the lifestyle trend, The Inclusive Generation forecasted previously. The Trump presidency has shed new light on the conversations the world has avoided all these years. “He took away our ability to be ignorant” (Kane, 2017) mentioned Nadida Matin, a black, Muslim woman who is a lifelong activist. People no longer had the luxury to wait for the consequence, they must be the one to make the change. If they want inclusion, they must work towards it. This lifestyle trend started bringing people together to focus from the noise and distractions in the world and become “enfolded in the soft comforts of the wellness industry” (Smith and Maciejowska, 2017).

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Target Consumer

The target consumers are working women, aged 28–35 years old. According to a study by the Pew Research Center shows that “54% [of them] disapprove Trump’s Presidency” (Pew Research Center for the People and the Press, 2016). With a degree, and a promising career, they are confident and have good financial stability. They are curious about the world and are highly intellectual. They are happily married and strive to balance work with married life. However, they have a short attention span (LSN Global, 2016) due to their stressful and demanding lifestyles. Being digitally-savvy and constantly on-the-go, they are constantly bombarded with messages through social media, the internet, emails, magazines and television. “[They] have lost the ability to go deep [because they are so caught up with the noise in the world]” said Cal Newport, an author of Rules for Focused Success in a Distracted World.

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Women in this target group “gravitates towards premium, understated and often luxurious brands and experiences to affirm their identity” (Marketing Executive Digest, n.d). They “want to belong and be part of a tribe” (LSN Global, 2016) but simultaneously be a unique individual. “They are aware of how they spend their money and what they buy into, so they really appreciate value for money in that sense” (Howarth, 2014).


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Figure 2.6


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Composed Cammie

Based on the three interviews conducted (see appendix), a customer persona was created. Personas are “fictional composite characters based on data from real people” (Fraser, 2012). It helps to frame the “human-factor at the [core] of value-creation” (Fraser, 2012) for a brand.

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Figure 2.8


Customer Persona: Composed Cammie

Figure 2.9

Name: Cammie Woods

(discriminate sizes and genders)

Age: 28

Motivations: To experience the little things in life

Marital Status: Married with no children Work: Qualified architect in London Live: An apartment in London with her husband Income: £38,000 and above Likes: Shopping during sales, travelling, hiking, reading and enjoys family time Dislikes: Brands that is not inclusive

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Challenges: Balance personal time and time with her husband, family and friends Top 7 Needs • Spend quality time by myself • Value for money • To feel satisfied when purchasing • Style her clothes easily • Feel comfortable and confident with what she wears • Clothes that fit her personal style • Hassle-free shopping experience


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Customer Persona: Composed Cammie

Her story

Cammie Wood is a 28-year-old architect working in London. She has been working as an architect for four years. Recently, Cammie married Grayson, her childhood sweetheart of fifteen years, and they bought an apartment in the Soho district together. Grayson is a creative director at an advertising agency in Shoreditch. Cammie and her husband plan to have two children in the near future. Cammie loves her job even though her work schedule is hectic and demanding with many project deadlines. Her day can take her from working at the studio to construction site visits and lunch meetings with clients and contractors, and the occasional project completion party. She also has dinner most evenings with Grayson. As a result, Cammie often ends up working late into the night to finish up the various project drawings and drafts that she cannot complete within her working hours. Despite all of it, she feels a sense of fulfilment when she has achieved her day-to-day work tasks. Her fashion style must be flexible and appropriate for the places she goes throughout the day. Therefore, Cammie takes what she needs to work; for example, she takes a pair of sneakers and jeans if she needs to go to the job site that day.

Cammie strives to balance her work and married life, ensuring she feels a sense of satisfaction in her job without sacrificing her time with her husband, family and friends. Since Cammie and her husband are busy with their careers, they try to make it a point to chat with each other before sleeping every night. Occasionally, Cammie desires to have her ‘me’ time to relax from a long day/week of work. She uses her days off to catch up on books that her husband recommends, cook a scrumptious meal, fiddle around with her camera or take a long bus ride around London. To maximise time spent with her husband, Cammie tries to ensure that their weekends are spent together. It could be a relaxed date at her charming favourite café, Bluebelles of Portobello in London, a walk around Mayfair, a date at a cinema or a dressier date at Blanchette East. When a long bank holiday arises, they will even drive up to Yorkshire and hike the dales together or even travel out of the country. Her favourite trip with Grayson was camping and catching oysters at Tomale Bay, north of San Francisco, in the fall of 2016.

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Figure 3.6 38 Collection of Style


Collection of Style (COS), Brand Story

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Collection of Style (COS), Brand Story

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Collection of Style (COS) is a Swedish brand based in London that started in 2007 under the H&M Group. Since opening its flagship store on London’s Regent Street, COS has opened countless stores “in carefully considered locations” (Business of Fashion, 2017) internationally. Today, the brand has over “156 stores” (Abnett, 2016) in over “30 markets” (Business of Fashion, 2017) like the United States, Japan and Dubai; its ecommerce site is available in “19 markets” (Abnett, 2016). The clothing lines are the same around the world.

Figure 3.8

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Collection of Style (COS), Brand Story Turning obstacles into possibilities When the brand started in 2007, the world was facing an economic downfall which meant consumers were frugal and fashion was not its utmost priority. Thus, COS had to come up with affordable fashion garments that were trendy, timeless and durable so consumers would buy them. “[Consumers] are looking for key styles that last” (Walker, 2012) mentioned to Karin Gustaffson, the Head of Womenswear Design at COS which was what the brand promised to deliver all these years. Within a decade, the brand has become the “wardrobe saviour” (Walker, 2012) for women and men. A brand for everyone From the beginning, the brand has a strong customer relationship as it has “[filled] a gap between the designer and high street [brands]” (Walker, 2012) with its garments. After conducting a customer analysis in 2007, the brand determined that consumers “want some type of easiness in their [chaotic] lives” (Beker, 2015), like the simplicity when it comes to styling their outfits in many ways. They want stylish garments yet functional. They want good quality garments yet affordable. Therefore, COS designed garments using lush fabrics yet affordable that are understated and timeless which met all its consumers’ needs. The fashion lines represented its “ageless” (Beker, 2015) consumer demographic group. A brand’s essence and culture that centres on innovation, craftsmanship and design At the core of COS principles are “timeless, modern, functional” (Howarth, 2014) and the constant desire to innovate. This is what set the brand apart from its competitors. According to Gustaffson, COS is an innovative brand that embraces the macro-environmental trends “rather than following fashion trends” (Walker, 2012). Its

style is constantly “inspired by architecture, graphics, design and arts” (Walker, 2012) which symbolises the brand’s culture. With that, a strong concept narrative and a blank canvas, the brand “innovates fabrication to [create] modern and interesting” (Walker, 2012) garments that play with volume and proportion, mentioned the designer. Simplicity, attention to details and collaboration are the three key values to the brand’s success COS values simplicity due to it’s Scandinavian roots. Everything from its clean logo, packaging, retail spaces and communication strategies are “designed in-house” (Howarth, 2014); the brand nailed the concept of minimalism. The attention to detail meant that COS focuses on its essence which meant the “graphics and branding design” must go together seamlessly with its fashion garments. There is no loud advertising like billboards and fashion shows, but rather COS focuses on “intelligent visual communications” (Walker, 2012) according to Agata Belcen, a fashion editor at AnOther Magazine. It releases new product ranges through its websites and social media. Furthermore, the brand has a free, high-quality “biannual printed publication [that it uses to disseminate information to its consumers]” (Howarth, 2014). Since the brand’s culture revolves around architecture, design and art, COS partners with collaborators and events to advertise its brand. “There are other ways to reach out [other than traditional methods of marketing]” mentioned Managing Director, Marie Honda. For example, COS has partnered with “London-based design duo Studio Swine to create an interactive installation and multisensory experience in the city’s historic Cinema Arti” (COS, 2017). However, the “biggest collaborations [the brand] has done” (#Legend, 2017) was with Agnes Martin and the Guggenheim.

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Collection of Style (COS), Brand Story

Figure 3.9

Moving towards a lifestyle brand COS is no longer a fashion brand, it is a lifestyle that people are buying into. “[Consumers] come to see installations and exhibitions we host and they are wearing out clothes, it’s shared interest” (Maye, 2016). To add to its lifestyle brand, it recently launched a children’s wear line and Things; which sells “homeware for everyday life” (COS, 2017) which consumers seemed to enjoy.

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Trend Concept: Focus

Through the intensive research from the lifestyle trend, The Inclusive Generation, the trend concept for this Spring/Summer 2018 season would be Focus. It is the response to the aftermath of the Trump Presidency as the world comes together to resist his policies. It symbolises “the fight for all those vulnerable communities who felt they have been targeted by [his governance]” (Wenzke, 2017). The trend concept, Focus, on the solidarity and unity of cultural and beliefs. As people from different communities start to focus on understanding one’s cultures, it would “enrich [their] life through [that] shared knowledge of other’s cultures” (University of Kansas, 2016). It would create a sense of community as we look “at each other with similar interests rather than as adversaries” (University of

Kansas, 2016). Boundaries will be broken and it will give rise to the sense of inclusiveness and mutual respect. Therefore, Focus is inspired by the merging and representation of the East and West cultures. The “reawakening of the ancient Silk Road” (WGSN, 2016), the vibrant and colourful cities of India and Africa, the representation of Korean heritage through it’s traditional garments are some examples of how traditions will be combined with modernity and “design to tell new stories” (WGSN, 2016) in an engaging way. The colour story features rich, vibrant colours that are reminiscent of the streets in India. Knits and fabrics tailored to create romantic, feminine silhouettes.

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The reasoning behind the trend concept, Focus and the brand, COS

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Potential business opportunity One weakness of COS is they are not a trendled brand. They “defy trends” (Howarth, 2014) and base everything on architecture, design and art. Consumers may prefer to shop at brands like Zara and French Connection because these fashion companies follow trends. COS’s competitors meet consumers’ expectations by delivering in-style and ontrend garments seasonally. As a result, COS may lose potential consumers to its competitors even though it delivers highquality garments which its competitors do not. Therefore, this trend concept will be a good business opportunity for COS to venture into as it would give it a competitive advantage. The brand would be able to produce trend-led and high-quality garments at affordable price points that satisfy consumers’ needs. Cultural influence on COS garments The brand has always favoured “the less is more philosophy” (McCallum, 2015). According to Karin Gustaffson, creative director of COS, the brand collection has a simple aesthetic and understatement that could “lend itself to different personalities and nationalities” (McCallum, 2015). As a result, the trend concept would help bring out that cultural aspect of COS garments even more.

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Mood

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Figure 6.1 66 Collection of Style


Colour Vision: Sultry Blush

“Seasonal fashion is redefined as much by colour as it is by silhouette or fabric� (Leach, 2012). In this decade, colour has played a very important part of fashion. To keep with COS simplicity, this colour palette - Sultry Blush, inspired by the trend concept, will be used. It has a total of 14 colours, a small colour palette for COS for S/S 18 season.

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Colour Vision: Sultry Blush

Pantone: My Soul(19-4010)

Pantone: Tawny Port (19-1725)

Pantone: Stretch Limo (19-4005)

Pantone: Desert Sun (16-1149)

Core colours The core colours are desert sun, red mulberry and stretched limo. Desert sun and red mulberry contains rich tones of red which work well to “[enliven] tones” (WGSN, 2016) like stretched limo. These three colours “[balanced] commerciality with innovation” (WGSN, 2016), as it works well in “blockcolour” (WGSN, 2016) knits or jersey.

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Pantone: Pickled Beat (19-2420)

Pantone: Rio Red (19-1656)


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Figure 6.3


Colour Vision: Sultry Blush

Pantone: 501C

Pantone: Spiced Coral (17-1644)

Accented colours The accented colours are pinks and lilacs. According to Diana Vreeland, “pink is the navy blue of India” (Leach, 2012). It is the colour that covers the entire Jaipur City in India (Smith, 2013) which has made it infamously known as “The Pink City” (Smith, 2013). The colour, desert rose, has “a sense of duality” (WGSN, 2016). It is an energetic tone while at the same time is reserved. It is a feminine colour that suits a more mature consumer (WGSN, 2016). Lilac is known for its “delicateness and uniqueness” (Bourn, 2011) which adds a sense of elegance to the final Spring/Summer 2018 collection.

Pantone: Zephyr (15-1906)

Pantone: Orchid Bloom (14-3612)

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Colour Vision: Sultry Blush

Pantone: 663C

Pantone: Cool Grey 1C

Pantone: Tapioca (12-1403)

Pantone: Bright White (11-0601)

Neutral colours The neutral tones like tapioca and cool grey in the palette represent tranquillity in the distracted world.

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Figure 6.4


Yarns and Fabrics

According to Philippa Watkins, Royal College of Arts textile journalist and tutor, “colour is the first thing when [consumers] notice when [they] walk into a store, then print or pattern and how it is coordinated” (Gaimster, 2010). The importance of fabric and its properties will affect the outcome of the dress. To meet the needs of COS’s customer persona; value for money, comfort, and satisfaction in purchasing, the finishing of the fabrics play a fundamental role in the collection.

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Yarns & Fabrics Even though there are thousands of dressmaking fabrics available, nine key fabrics have been narrowed down to be used in this trend concept. They include:

Figure 6.6

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Tencel

Peachskin

It is a fabric made from natural fibres. It is a fabric with many strong properties like high absorbency, anti-creasing, “softer than silk and cooler than linen” (Lenzing, 2017). It is a great fabric for consumers with sensitive skin as it feels soft and comfortable on the skin. It drapes beautifully and can be applied to several garment styles.

It is a good alternative to silk. Peachskin is the “highest quality for very finely woven polyester” (Minerva Crafts, 2017) which fits C.O.S unique selling proposition of providing high-quality garments to consumers at an affordable price. It is a fluid fabric that is customizable, drapes beautifully and “does not crease easily” (Minerva Crafts, 2017). It is great for “loose, unstructured garments” design which fits the silhouettes in this trend concept.

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Figure 6.8

Figure 6.9

Organic and stretch cotton

Cashmere and wool coating

One of the core fabric for C.O.S is 100% cotton. Therefore, a mixture of organic and stretchable cotton will be used. Just like its name, it is “4-way stretch” (Mood Designer Fabrics, 2017) which conveys “a sense of movement [which represents the sails of the ancient silk road]” (WGSN, 2016).

It is an affordable fabric for the mid-market brand because “the blending of [expensive] fibres reduce cost” (Leach, 2012). It has a composition of “70% wool and 30% cashmere” (Joel & Sons, 2017). This fabric can be used to make coats and jumpers that can be worn during the transitional period between Winter and Spring. Cashmere and wool coating fabric is a good insulator.

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Yarns & Fabrics

Figure 7.0

Figure 7.1

Organic cotton fleece (polar fleece)

Chica bi-stretch suiting

The fabric is “330gsm” (Organic Textile Company, 2017); suitable to make jumpers, tops and linings of jackets. It has a “soft backing and a knitted front” (Organic Textile Company, 2017) which is comfortable to wear.

It is a luxurious, heavy-duty and easy-to-dye fabric. It can stretch on both sides (Fabric Godmother, 2017) which makes it suitable for a wide range of garments (e.g. trousers and skirts). It does not crease and ironing is not required. The fabric can be used to make trousers, skirts, shift dresses, light-weight jacket and suits (I Want Fabric, 2017).

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Figure 7.2

Figure 7.3

Scuba

Super jersey

Unlike the neoprene scuba wetsuit fabric, this fabric is “thinner and malleable� (Croft Mills Fabric, 2016). Since the key silhouettes in Focus are romantic and fluid, scuba fabric adds a nice touch of draping and shine. Furthermore, C.O.S has used this fabric in several garment designs.

It is a mixed jersey fabric with bamboo and cotton properties. It is stretchable and soft ideal for making any shirts.

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Yarns & Fabrics

Figure 7.4

Emily wool jersey This is a versatile, high-quality fabric that is durable and stretchable. It is a good fabric to make “a lightweight sweater” (Fabric Godmother, 2017) for the cool Spring days. Furthermore, it has a slight texture which gives it a “decorative and crafted feel” (WGSN, 2016) seen in Bhutanese patchworks.

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Key Silhouettes

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Key Silhouettes

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Figure 7.9

The key silhouettes of Spring/Summer 2018, in relation to the trend concept—Focus, are traditional pieces with a modern twist. They are casual with loose and “relaxed shapes” (WGSN, 2016), making it ideal for COS’s customers. The silhouettes are easy to mix and match; reducing the time and effort needed for styling. Since the trend concept emphasizes on fabric manipulation to create new silhouettes, such as drapes, there are some pieces in the collection that features it. According to Sharon Graubard, founder of fashion trend consulting company—MintModa, “a fabric will inspire

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a silhouette… [it] is the paint and clay of fashion” (Leach, 2012). The overall collection has a romantic bohemian touch with a contemporary cut. The key silhouettes are: • Paperbag ankled trousers • Midi-draped dress • Coat with kimono sleeves • Loose blouse • Assymetrical boxy-shaped jumper • Drape skirt • Front knot maxi dress


Figure 8.3

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Figure 8.4 Figure 8.5

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Complete range plan with colours, fabrics and silhouettes

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Figure 8.6


Complete Range Plan

Paperbag Ankled Trousers Sizes: 34 / 36 / 38 / 40 / 42 / 44 Colour: Navy / Orange / Tapoica / Pink Fabric: 100% Cotton or 100% Tencel Fabric Care: Machine washable and tumble Dry acceptable Selling price: ÂŁ69 Manufacturer: Undisclosed

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Complete Range Plan

Drape skirt Sizes: 34 / 36 / 38 / 40 / 42 / 44 Colour: Black / Cool grey / Mulberry / Purple Fabric: 97% Polyester, 3% Elastane (Chica Bi Stretch Suiting) or 95% Polyester, 5% Spandex (Scuba) Fabric Care: Machine washable and tumble Dry acceptable Selling price: ÂŁ69 Manufacturer: Undisclosed

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Complete Range Plan

Front Knot Maxi Dress Sizes: XS / S / M / L Colour: Navy / Purple / White / Lilac Fabric: 95% Polyester, 5% Spandex (Scuba) Fabric Care: Machine washable and tumble Dry acceptable Selling price: ÂŁ89 Manufacturer: Undisclosed

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Complete Range Plan

Midi-Draped Dress Sizes: XS / S / M / L Colour: Blue / Orange / White / Purple Fabric: 100% Cotton or 100% Polyester (Peachskin) Fabric Care: Machine washable and tumble Dry acceptable Selling price: ÂŁ69 Manufacturer: Undisclosed

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Complete Range Plan

Coat with Kimono Sleeves Sizes: XS / S / M / L Colour: Navy / Purple / Tapoica / Pink Fabric: 70% Wool, 30% Cashmere Fabric Care: Dry clean only Selling price: £125 Manufacturer: Undisclosed

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Complete Range Plan

Loose Blouse Sizes: 34 / 36 / 38 / 40 / 42 / 44 Colour: White / Cool grey / Mulberry / Pink Fabric: 100% Polyester (Peachskin) or 100% Tencel Fabric Care: Machine washable and tumble Dry acceptable Selling price: ÂŁ59 Manufacturer: Undisclosed

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Complete Range Plan

Assymetrical BoxyShaped Jumper Sizes: XS / S / M / L Colour: Black / Cool grey / Mulberry / White / Lilac / Purple Fabric: 46% Organic Cotton, 46% Bamboo, 8% Elastane or Organic Fleece or 60% Wool, 40% Polyester (Emily Marl Jersey) Fabric Care: Machine washable and tumble Dry acceptable Selling price: ÂŁ55 Manufacturer: Undisclosed

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Figure 8.7

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Conclusion

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Overall, this trend forecast report is valuable for COS as it allows the brand to better understand their customers needs and create value for them. The in-house designers and buying team can rely on the trend concept analysis to determine “a critical part of every decision [based around] pricing, depth of buy, timing within a season and replenishment� (Abnett, 2015).

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Figure 8.8

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Appendix

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Figure 9.1


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Customer Interview

Satisfaction at filling a gap in my wardrobe - and the excitement of piecing together an outfit that pleases my aesthetic eye. Plus, the newly gained confidence when wearing an outfit that “works” Daniella Schütze | 21 Blogger of Velvet Sunday Munich, Germany

Can you tell me about yourself? 21 Family? Parents, younger sister Where are you from? Half English, half Danish. But I’ve spent most of my life around the UK. Where do you currently live? Split between student digs at Oxford, and living at home with my parents and sister in North West England. (We have three terms a year at Oxford, each 8 weeks in length.) Currently on my year abroad in Munich (Oct 16 - Jul 17). Education level? Degree in German at the University of Oxford. Work Experience? • Working as research assistant for author and fashion editor Plum Sykes, assisting with VOGUE cover-star articles • Proof-reading of Syke’s latest novel • Copy-editor at the German publisher

HEYNE (Random House Group) in Munich, 3-month internship Social Media Consultant and Junior Financial Part-time model (incl. heading the publicity campaign as “The Face of Oxford Fashion Week”) Tutoring: teaching GCSE, KS1, and adult learners in German and English.

Past / present / future goals? • My childhood dreams of being an authorcum-illustrator has developed into the (marginally) more lucrative idea of becoming a journalist-cum-author. • Either this, or the dryer route of financial services (after an insight week at BlackRock asset management and my job at JW Financial Planning). • But I might just stay on at Oxford for a Masters, perhaps a DPhil…or until my hair’s turned white and I need the assistance of a mobility scooter to get around. Perhaps I’ll never leave the academic bubble!

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Customer Interview Blogging lifestyle? Meeting (and having fun) with photographers (sometimes MUAs) for photo-shoots; collaborating with fashion, decor, accessory/ jewellery, and craft brands; student ambassador for Fleek app (“shop my look”); international style ambassador for Clarks Shoes; spending money beyond my student budget on beautiful things. What motivates you? / What makes you happy? Having definite goals - a to-do list always helps! Reading, reading, and reading. Preferably without a deadline to meet. About anything, everything. Can you tell me about your hobbies and interests? You mean apart from reading? Sketching and painting, blogging (naturally), walking in the countryside (a seriously underrated activity!), singing (in the shower), watching bad German soap operas, and staring out the window of public transport. What do you do on a day to day basis? In Oxford: wake between 7-8am, cup of hot water (yes, really!); sit down at my laptop straight away (if I start procrastinating, I never get going with my work); work for 1-2 hours; have breakfast and dress; attend a seminar/ lecture (scattered throughout the day); a long lunch; work/attend classes until 5; enjoy a two-hour dinner break (cooking, then washing up as slowly as possible); work until 9 (if I’m lucky), 10 (on a normal day), or between 11pm-3am if an essay deadline looms. Repeat, 7 days a week (yes, even on Sundays), for 8 weeks. In Germany: working several internships. Rise at 6:20am, work from 9am to 6pm; cooking at home, and enjoying a slow dinner; reading, or

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blogging, or binging on German crime series before bed! What are some personal challenges you face in your daily life? Unanswered What are some of the rewarding or fulfilling elements of your life? Unanswered Since you are a fashion blogger, where do you get your fashion trends from? The nooks of my mind; people I see on the street; fellow bloggers on Instagram; fashion retail websites; Vogue magazine. Do you follow the fashion trends? If so. why? If not, why not? Loosely. I follow the trends that catch my eye but if I think they’re distasteful, or they don’t suit me, I steer clear! I certainly don’t religiously adhere to the trend book. Who inspires you the most in fashion? Audrey Hepburn (no explanation needed); 90s chicks; Alexa Chung (exudes nonchalant chic); flappers of the Golden Era. What would you consider your fashion style? Why would you say that is? It’s always evolving, so is really quite impossible to pin down. It depends on my mood, the day, the weather, what I want to express through my clothing - sophistication, cheekiness, girlishness, nonchalance? Have your style change over the years as you mature? YES. I will never return to the trouser-skirt, or two pigtails on either side of my head. What clothing item would you not wear? PVC trousers. Or a rain cap. But you know, never say never. What type of clothes do you normally buy?


Customer Interview Ones that instantly catch my eye, because they have something unique about them. But the deciding factor is if they fit well! Describe your buying behavior when it comes to fashion garments? If I already own something similar - leave it. If I don’t love it at once - leave it. If it doesn’t fit well - leave it! How often do you shop for clothes? Whenever I feel something is missing from my wardrobe. Fluctuates as the seasons change! Sprees at the beginning of winter, and as the summer approaches. Punctuated with odd buys now and then. (And of course the obligatory Christmas/New Year splurge.) What and when is the last fashion purchase you had? Describe your experience? COS: a black roll neck jumper and a cobalt blue felt jacket. What encourages you to buy fashion garments? (Could it be trends, sense of satisfaction etc.) Satisfaction at filling a gap in my wardrobe and the excitement of piecing together an outfit that pleases my aesthetic eye. Plus, the newly gained confidence when wearing an outfit that “works”. What are you favourite fashion brands? Please kindly name a few and why do you like then? 1. Zara: great range of stylish pieces, mostly good quality, with great prices. 2. COS 3. Miista shoes: unique and eye-catching designs, amazing quality, and no compromises on comfort. 4. Reformation: eco-friendly - and just beautiful. 5. Erdem: out of my price range, but the creations are really quite dreamy. Have you purchase from your favourite

fashion brands before? If so, what was/were the item/items? • COS (see above) • Zara: too many to list! • Miista: three pairs of wonderful shoes. What are some of the fashion brands you dislike? Please kindly elaborate on your answer? • Primark: cheap products, in both quality and price. Poor customer service. • New Look. See above (although to a lesser degree). • Deichmann. (See above). Have you heard of COS before? YES! Do you like the brand? Yes - very much! Now, have you shopped in COS before? If you did, could you provide us with your shopping experience? Yes, and yes: I liked the colour-coordinated layout of the shop (i.e. clothes were placed in sections of colour, rather than style), the staff were very friendly and helpful, and the items were packed up very nicely at the till. What do you think of the price ranges? Are they affordable for you? …Yes, but only in the sale (student issues!). Clothes wise, what do you think of it? The minimalist chic is spot-on, with clean lines, angular silhouettes, un-fussy patterns, and an interesting choice of materials. If you are the buyer/designer/marketer for COS, what would you do differently? I would perhaps offer a better range of (smaller) sizes; the cuts tend to give linear silhouettes and a looser fit, and there is often such an excess of material that some of the pieces look quite dreadful on a slimmer frame.

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Customer Interview What is your take on the current fashion industry? Unanswered Do you think the fashion industry is inclusive? If yes, why so? If not, why not? Yes, and no; it is often lambasted for promoting a thin body shape, but - in reaction - plus size lines have boomed. But this market has in turn created another kind of exclusion of the slimmer frame. “Fashion” in certainly generally accessible, and there are many cheaper alternatives to the runway designs. However, the exclusive fashion circles remain just that - exclusive, jealously guarding their superior style status. It would be nice, for instance, if the general public were also given access to fashion weeks (and not simply given the poor compensation of a fashion “festival” a week or so after the real events). Can you provide me with a detailed example on why you think the fashion industry is/ is not inclusive? Unanswered What do you think the fashion industry could do to improve? Unanswered

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I started looking more and feeling more capable of trying new things and find what I like and enjoy it. This is how I would say my style has changed from wearing whatever that fit me, felt good or something to try to match things and create outfits and finding styles. Laura Roura | 26 Barista at Leeds Student Union Balcony Leeds, United Kingdom

Can you tell me about yourself and your family? So myself.. Wow. I am 25 and I am from Spain. Um, I live with my mom and my grandma and my two doggies. Yeah, so they are part of the family. It is an all-women family and it has been for many years. Um, I live in a small town but I have been to Barcelona very often so I have maybe lived in both town and city. So yeah, that’s part of who I am. Home / living arrangement – where; with whom; how long? I am currently single and staying in IQ accommodation in Leeds with 4 other girls in my flat. Moving on to the next question, can I ask what is your highest education qualifications? Mm.. I have completed the A levels equivalent and I have started University so technically I am at a university level.

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This is a really interesting question, I would like to know your work experience – past / present / future goals? So you want to know more work experience? Before now, my work experience was a very simple job in supermarket for many years. It was the same job for many years in Spain during the Summer. It was basically to build up my work experience. Now, for a year and a half I have been working here at the University of Leeds school union in the café – Hidden Café and Balcony. Originally, I was a café assistant to a supervisor and this year I’m managing more of the outlet. I am doing stock-taking and doing meeting with the staff so I have been learning a lot from this job. This job teach me how to run a business. Do you like your current job? Yeah, I really enjoy it. What is your day-to-day work at the café? I mean the day-today is setting up the outlet and making sure everything is ready. We need to have all the products because it would be a problem if the café ran out of coffee or any other essentials.


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Customer Interview Umm, something that is really on my mind lately is that we are doing lots of coffee deliveries like catering for meetings, presentations and conferences. Thus, that require a new level of professionalism at the outlet. So, it is a bit more nerve wrecking but it has been interesting and it adds to the experience that I’m gaining. Um, I love the part of getting new products and trying to market them and sell them to our customers. For example like the cakes, we taste them out first before marketing it. That’s really fun. Future… so okay, I want to finish my studies in Fashion Marketing and I would love to gain experience in some companies that maybe fit with my ideals or doesn’t follow the establishment a little bit. I mean my dream would be maybe to set my own company, set my own thing. But until then, I would like to gain experience with companies that maybe fit my ideas. Yeah, I am really interested in entrepreneurship and I think it is one of the best thing and really work on my ideas. Moving on to your personal experiences, What motivates you in life? I am going to be really cheesy (giggles). Um, what has always motivated me in life is to be happy. (giggles). I am going to explain why… Um, I guess it is just the little things that I want to experience. I love to travel and I want to travel and I want to have the means to travel. I want to experience with friends and family just people personally. Therefore, all the things that I do, like if I want to find a good job… everything is to accomplish this kind of level in life where I can do things that I love. So this is my motivation. Like, when I went to Tokyo, Japan. I did that. I didn’t want to go unless I knew I can enjoy it to the maximum. I do not want to do it halfway. I had to go all the way and I saved

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up and I did everything I wanted when I went there. Since you have been to Tokyo, the heart of Japanese fashion, what do you think of their fashion choices? Oohh… it’s fascinating! I saw and constantly see “things” that are not for me and that I wouldn’t try. But I just fascinating that when I see the people there dare to try new things and dare to try things that I know will be out of my comfort zone. For example, yesterday (3rd Feb) in the café , a girl came with very fascinating fashion, bright eye shadow – pink, coloured hair and quirky glasses. I just looked at her and I was like “Wow!” and thought to myself, “you’re brave! You go girl! Do what you feel like doing and you don’t care” and I find that really fascinating. Even if I wouldn’t do it, I love that people do it! A really fun question coming up, so can you tell me about your hobbies and interests? Okay my hobbies… they are really typical. I love to spend time reading. I am a very introverted person so I love to spend time by myself. I love to read and I read a lot but I am also really into going to the cinema. There’s something about going to do the cinema, the big screen, the dark room, the velvet seats... Yeah, I love that! I love movies in general but I just love the experience of going to the cinema. I don’t do this a lot but I love travelling. It’s something that I love (firm answer). It’s my thing. If I could do it every time, all the time, I would do it. Um, what else? I mean it’s not a hobby but its just an interest of mine. Um.. I love animals. When you spoke about the future, if I had the means I would love to do something with or related to helping animals. Maybe like a shelter for dogs, something like that. If one day I could do it, I would. I know it is not related to what I study but it is something that


Customer Interview is a passion of mine. It is something that I am passionate about and would be really involved in because it really touches your heart. It would make me really happy if I could achieve this one day. At the present moment, it is very easy to watch movie at home and in bed on Netflix. Since you have an interest in going to the cinema to catch a film, what and why do you want to do so? Is it because you are stress or you want to ‘escape’ from the world? Yeah, that’s kind of my thing. When I read or go to the cinema, it’s a moment that everything else goes away. I really get into the world like when I am read or watching the movie. I am able to just focus on that and everything else goes away. Um and the part and the reason why I love doing this is because it is just an escape. My mind just focus on that and all my worries goes away. So yeah, that’s one of the things why I do it. Other than work, what do you do on a day to day basis? Could you give me a perspective of your weekday and weekend plan? Okay so, I work almost every day, 4 days a week for 6 hours straight shift. So besides that which we have already talked about, umm.. I just spend a bit of time both weekday and weekend planning food related stuff. Because I try to avoid to buy food so I spend a lot of time doing that. Also because I am vegetarian, it means I need to work a little bit more on doing it myself and not buying it from somewhere else. It takes a lot of time to prepare food. Yeah, so mainly I spend time with my flatmates as well like chatting around when we are in the flat. We find each other and we talk. Yeah, I mean I am really introverted so I like to spend time doing things by myself. Umm, I would love to do other things. Like for

example, I went on a day trips that they do for hiking which I love the outdoors. It was so fun and so beautiful. It’s in the Yorkshire dales but I can’t remember the name of the exact place. We experience every kind of weather. It was cloudy, windy then it rained crazily then it was sunny. But it was good! It was a crazy experience but it was fun. It was not exhausting but it was not like you are hiking fully. I mean you are hiking a little bit but not like a tedious one. It is do-able if you are not used to crazy sports and all that. I love doing this kind of stuff every now and then. Mainly it is just time for myself. What are some of the rewarding or fulfilling elements of your life? I speak with my mom almost every day and its good to see her. But my doggies, I don’t experience them and you cannot interact with them. So it’s one of the things that I look forward (strong emphasis) when I get home. Because they get so happy, they jump at me, they lick me for minutes. Yeah, it’s really one of the things that make me happy. I love the sea and I love to swim so when I go back in the summer it is one of the things that I look forward too. It’s really fulfilling going to the beach because I live near the beach and its so beautiful. It just makes me incredibly happy! Yeah it’s amazing. I don’t know what else… How about any work related moments? Yeah… This year at work it is definitely more challenging but at the same time it has been really fulfilling. Um, because I have went out of my comfort zone like leading a group, becoming a leader and taking on responsibilities by myself of an outlet. I know that I am responsible and now it is up to me that the café works accordingly. I have gotten good feedback from my managers. They even give me an award something about ‘shining star and empowerment’ because I help the intern of the outlet. The award is only given

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Customer Interview to people that have gone out of their way to do things. It has been really fulfilling to see an improvement in myself and to see that people have appreciated it and acknowledge it. I mean is not the best thing because I don’t do things to get people’s compliment but it feels good when they do. Firstly, I do things for myself because I feel good doing that. I feel good doing my best. I feel good helping but if I see that they have noticed it and acknowledge it then it makes me really happy. Who inspires you the most in fashion? Um.. I mean it is not a specific person. While I have been inspired by fashion shows, it is mostly on YouTube, YouTubers that inspire me. Because, when you see magazines or fashion shows, they are things that are not realistic and feasible. I go to Uni. I go to work. I cannot wear this kind of things. YouTubers are more fashion forward but at the same time they do everyday things like I do. This where I can see “Oh.. these are things I can wear and this I love, this I love” (animated voice). Also, most of them (fashion vloggers) buy from the places where I can buy and afford. So, it’s mostly fashion bloggers and YouTube. So who are you favourite fashion bloggers and YouTubers? Um… Let me think… There’s this girl called Ingrid Nielsen, she’s American and she’s amazing. Then there’s Zoella obviously. I don’t really follow her for her but I see pictures and the things she wears. Because sometimes she wear things that I really like. These are the ones that I have been following awhile. I have yet to update my list. It’s so stressful because there are so many people on YouTube now. I cannot keep up with you (them). She is called Evelina and she is fashion forward and she experiments a lot. She is really cool. I like her.

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Yeah, I mostly get inspired by Youtube, fashion-wise. Fashion bloggers not so much because it is easier to watch videos than read a blog post and it is more entertaining. Let’s say… If Ingrid were to promote a product or you see something you like that she wore, would you buy it? Yes! (Firm) Not from them (Ingrid, Zoella and Evelina). Zoella tends to do beauty products. Ingrid… I think she has gone more makeup and housewares. But there is this American fitness YouTuber, Cassey Ho and she has her own fitness line and I have bought a few things from them. Her clothing line is amazing!! (Happy, smiling). She does like really, really beautiful (strong emphasis) designs and she experimented with different textiles to make them stretchable but not too see through. She uses comfortable fabrics but also stylish and washable. She did this kind of sportswear peplum top and I was so surprised. Um and she does this really nice prints like peonies. But it’s really beautiful. One was like mermaid inspired and the accessories like one of the glasses or yoga mats. It is because I follow her and her videos that I bought her products. She has done well in that sense (laughing). Just to side track.. Although sometimes it might be frustrating because I see they have this life that they put on the videos, it doesn’t mean it is completely real. Most of them that I follow motivate me to change things to do better, try new things, to cook healthier, to do sports, to organise things better. But then, I think they maybe just putting everything in this five minute videos but they don’t manage to do it. Because I am able to see how well they present everything. Oh yeah, I love what they are doing but at the same time, I think… are you really doing it or are you just making me frustrated because I cannot accomplish it. But yeah, they manage to influence me in changing certain things that interest me.


Customer Interview What would you consider your fashion style? Why would you say that is? I mean it is the lifestyle that I follow I am kinda force to keep it casual. I mean I try to sometimes add something more elegant. But if I could, um… to tell you a brand that maybe shows it more like the style I would wear when I am working a more professional lifestyle – Ted Baker. I love that it mixes everything that is contemporary and yet it is still elegant, feminine but at the same time there’s a sense of luxury but not too much. You can sense the quality again it is not too much. Ted Baker is just right because the brand mixes elegant, feminine and cool and causal. There’s a bit of masculinity in there sometimes so yeah if I have to say like one brand that describe me, I would say Ted Baker hands down. With regards to your answer on your favourite brand, what is the brand you dislike the most, you can name a few too? Hmm…Sometimes I am really put off from fashion brands because of the lack of diversity and all of that. But one brand that has always frustrate me was Mango! Yeah, the fashion is nice. I am really frustrated with the way they do sizes to the people they cater. Like if you go there (to the store) and you got a size and it was just too small. Like my aunt, who is really thin can’t fit a small in Mango. I was always frustrated by that. My aunt is thin, she is a bit more muscular like her bag and arms because she does the human castles like they climb on top of each other and they have to be really strong. She’s thin. She can fit the clothes but she can’t take it off and she’s thin! (Strong emphasis that sounded pissed when she mentioned thin) She’s really thin! Um, but then they did this when brands started putting the plus size section everything called Violeta I think. However

they started from a size 10 or 12 (I don’t know exactly) but it’s a size that shouldn’t be considered plus size. It shouldn’t. It just shouldn’t. It really infuriated me. I mean everything in the brand is fine but that one thing because very other brand that does plus size starts from 16,18… But from the 12, what are you doing?! What are you telling us?! I hated it! From that moment if every other thing is great, I would still be like no! (firm response) Have your style change over the years as you mature? Hmm… I used to go to the shops find whatever that fits me, I like and looks good. This was during my high school years. I would go again but for what I am wearing. What was more fashionable at the moment, I would avoid it. It’s like you are forcing me. I don’t know. No! I don’t want to do it. For example when I saw something like almost all my classmates were wearing, no, I don’t want it. It was a bit irrational but maybe after a few months when it was going down (trend) then I would grab it because now I think it was cool. So yeah after a while I accepted that it was a new trend and I like it, I would try it. I kept evolving and then started paying attention (to trends). Not following the trends because I don’t always like them but be more aware on what is going on. I would check and read fashion blogs because of that. It changed in a sense that I manage to find what I like and new things that I didn’t know that I would like. I wasn’t afraid because I have this kind of phobia in the fashion industry. Partly because of the diversity, I didn’t feel included. I felt like no, I don’t want to be part of it. Um… okay why not, I will try to make myself part of it. I started looking more and feeling more capable of trying new things and find what I like and enjoy it. This is how I would say my style has changed from wearing whatever that fit me, felt good or something

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Customer Interview to try to match things and create outfits and finding styles. In relation to that, what is your favourite garment that you wear? Jeans. (Answer matter-of-factly) I am not a huge fans of blue jeans. Not always black and not khaki green. But there’s this blue that is darkish, greyish blue. It’s still blue but it has this kind of greyish and dark blue. I like that kind and black jeans! I love leather trousers… a lot. How about tops? Um… let me think because of what I am doing right now, wait… I like to wear jumpers? (sounds like she is doubting herself when she says that) Okay wait, I think now I am mixing the word to describe the clothing item in American and British term… It’s not a hoodie. Not exactly knitwear but jumpers. The material is thicker but it’s not knit and it’s cosy and soft. I like when they have printings and sometimes like different materials. I like to have a variety of jumpers and they are really comfortable piece of garment! (she sounds really convincing when she said that) But it is not necessary boring and doesn’t necessary to be completely casual. It can look chic and nice as well. So yeah, jeans and jumpers are my everyday go-to items. But I do love dresses! (sounds excited when she mentioned that) I love dresses! I always go to really, I’d say… (stop to think) I never go for pencil skirt kind-of dresses. I know that I will look better but I would go for really feminine dresses. For example like high-neck, define waistline, not really flare skirts but have a little bit of skater A-line but not fitted. Um, I would say like the sixties (sigh) or seventies (she sounds like she is in doubt when she says that). Um, I feel like it is more feminine that style of dress sometimes with lace. I love colourful dresses or dark coloured dress. Floral prints are good.

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I love dresses! I love dresses! Do you find it annoying that you can’t wear dresses in the UK because of the weather? Yes! I find a change in lifestyle since I came here because I used to wear dresses all the time before I came here. The winters are cold isn’t it? But still, I would wear them. In the UK, I am more hesitant because you need to wear really thick tights and it doesn’t feel as comfortable. What clothing item would you not wear? What I never wear… okay, I never wear crop tops. Never! Yeah I know, I shouldn’t care but it’s really cold. I don’t feel incline here (points to belly) but I would love to try. I saw people trying things with crop tops like with highwaisted skirts or trousers. You can see a little bit of skin but not the whole tummy. (laughs) I love how crop top looks on someone. I like them but I wouldn’t like to be the one wearing it. How about shoes? You have never mentioned anything about them? Yeah that’s true. I don’t like pointed shoes, I don’t know why. (Interviewer: It elongates your legs though) Yeah, I know but my feet are not exactly slim. I have slightly wider feet so they are a bit uncomfortable. But also, the aesthetic makes me thing a bit dominatrix and aggressive. But I really do love shoes! As I said that if I could wear more Ted Baker, I would also love to wear high heels. I love high heels (there’s a smile on her face when she says that). Um, they are just beautiful. They just make you feel awesome even though they hurt a little bit but they make you feel different when you wear them. I know that it is not the most comfortable thing in the world but I always felt better and everything is better. I just felt better in my outfit. I understand that there are short, mid and


Customer Interview high heels, what are your preference when it comes to wearing them? What are your favourite heel design as well? Mm.. I love mid-heels. I don’t like short heels or flats. I like the in between of cat heels, is that what it’s called? I am not a fan. Aesthetically, I don’t feel as good as the higher ones. I wouldn’t like to go crazy on a daily basis like 10,15 centimetres. No! Colour wise… Mm.. I mean I love block colours. Not crazy shoes. Um… I mean I don’t know. It really depends on the outfit but I tend to go for basic colours like black, red and nudes. But I have never worn white heels. Never. But I have tried heels with glitter and like those with a straps around the ankles. It’s my style and fit my body shape and everything. I would love (strong emphasis and exaggerated the world – love) to try to wear sandals but I have a problem with sandals because of my feet. They don’t fit as well as with normal heels but I love the look of sandals and definitely high heels. Moving on to the next section of the interview related to COS, have you heard of COS before? Yes! Now, have you shopped in C.O.S before? Never! Why not? You know why because I have never been to one. I know that it just opened in Leeds but I have never been to one in Spain. It’s a pretty new brand and I haven’t had the chance to see. I don’t know the price range…

gauge my response. After browsing the site and the products, does it interest you? Will you purchase the items? No! It feels and looks old. It looks more like people above 28 or older that would wear C.O.S. I don’t know there’s something that make me think – Mom! Sorry. (laughs) It looks professional and elegant, I am not saying it does not look like that. But it looks like that kind of thing whereby a stylish, young mom would wear. It looks comfortable and flowy. It looks sophisticated. Well you just name the adjectives describing the brand’s identity. Really?! Well that’s good because it came across really well. So yeah, I don’t know why that I feel like someone older would wear it. Maybe because of my personal style even though I am a bit older. It doesn’t mean that I would wear really daring things but I think there’s something here that says young. How do you think the brand should change to make it more youthful? I think it is the matter of the cut, the shape and tailoring of the clothes. Also, everything is plain. There’s no prints. It’s not bad but all of it is like that. I like when things have accents like little pieces that make the piece a bit special. I think C.O.S attracts people because people who go for a younger more straighter and simple silhouette would like the brand. For example the short you are wearing (referring to interviewer), it is a simple white shirt with splatter of paint and slogan on the side. It just stands out a little bit, makes it different.

One minute, I will show you the products and price range on their website now…

Is this your mentality that you feel that way because you are a university student? Yes, I think so!

Yes, show me! If not I don’t know and cannot

Will you look at the brand differently if you

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Customer Interview are working in a professional job in London? Will you wear this? No… still (answer warily) but I think it is because of my personal style. For example if I was working in a law firm, I would still like to wear something professional with little things that make it unique or fashionable. As I said the garments at COS doesn’t look bad but it’s not the thing I go for. COS looks like a great place for basic pieces. It is a great aspect for one’s wardrobe but to based my style around these items, I wouldn’t. If you are the buyer/designer/marketer for COS, what would you do differently? I want to keep the target market – 28 and older. I mean… They are catering well for their certain customer demographics. I think they are doing a good job because when I saw this few outfit I got the message. That means they are doing a good job. There are no variety which is good because some brands go a bit too much. For example, Topshop, they try everything so it’s good that C.O.S focus on something. Umm, I would add things to it. I would try a few different cuts because everything is just wide, loose and shapeless. I would also mix it with other things but keep the same style because that is what C.O.S is going for. I would add a bit of variety because it looks all the same style (if you get what I mean). What is your take on the current fashion industry? Positive: I find it great that great that they are getting messages from society and social media. It’s amazing that little movements and little sparks of “Hey, I don’t agree with this” in brands when they apply it in some areas. In very recent times, we have seen things that we have never seen before in the fashion industry in decades. For example, there are more diversity in some brands, not

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all brands though. You see more acceptance in the breakage of social norms like the gender thing, fluidity, guys wearing skirts. Also, I have seen a lot more brands even if it’s not on the catwalk in the shops widening the range of sizes. Even though I do not completely agree with how they do it, it’s great! I know that they try to out more diversity and ethnicity. I see this and it’s great! Also, something good that I’ve seen is models in the industry speaking up for the negative things going on. They are speaking out about it and they are not afraid. Negative: But at the same time I feel like they are just doing it because they are forced to. It doesn’t come across as real. I feel like it’s some sort of publicity gimmick or marketing stunt. Very few international brand actually do react to the macro-environment for example the Trump protest because it doesn’t reflect their morals and values. It’s normally the very small and new brands that do it because they really feel the message. They want to feel inclusive and everything. So yeah, that’s what I don’t like. Catwalks, they go insane. That’s one thing I like and dislike. On one hand, it’s an outlet for creativity and you see magnificent things but at the same time it’s so detach from reality. I know that they do ready-to-wear, haute couture. If I want to go for the real thing, I would go for ready to wear if not I will enjoy the show. On one side it is fascinating and beautiful with what they create and like the design of the catwalk itself, the theatrics of it. When we try to force diversity into the show, they (the brands) take it too far. Do you think the fashion industry is inclusive? If yes, why so? If not, why not? Not inclusive. They try to quiet people down a little bit and make some people happy.


Customer Interview What do you think the fashion industry could do to improve? I mean it is difficult to please everyone because you have to take into account, people that they market to and the image of the brand. That is why when you think about it, you understand that this is why they (fashion industry) don’t want to change because of their customers. Customers that are rich. Customers that care so much about the way they look and they are willing to spend money to keep the image. Why why include like a size 20 in my catalogue that goes out to the customers that I normally sell too. I understand why they don’t want to change. But at the same time it is really upsetting because these brands (Chanel – luxury high end brands) are the ones that can create change. This is because the actors and actresses in catwalks they wear those brands, when they advertise it is normally for the luxury ones. However in the recent times, they do go for high street brands like Topshop. When you see the role models (celebrities) for young people, they normally wear those brands. The role models (celebrities) are not wearing clothes that people can afford.

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Figure 9.5


Customer Interview

I wear more “classic colours”

Ewa | 38 Mother of two children Bramley, United Kingdom

Can you tell me about yourself?

Yorkshire), creative (crochet, drawing)

Age? 38 years old

Can you tell me about your hobbies and interests? Above

Family – marriage, children? I’m married, two children Where are you from? From Poland Education level? I finished University (study) Work experience – past / present / future goals Unanswered Home / living arrangement – where; with whom; how long? 3 years, home in Bramley, Leeds, with my husband and two children What motivates you? / What makes you happy? My motivation is always by positive things, by moving. I have a lot make me happy things - moving (jog, riding a bike, trips around

What do you do on a day to day basis? Dinner! What are some personal challenges you face in your daily life? Still English language What are some of the rewarding or fulfilling elements of your life? Unanswered Where do you get your fashion trends from? Internet, street Do you follow the fashion trends? If so. why? If not, why not? No, I don’t have time for that Who inspires you the most in fashion? People who I meet in every-day life

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Customer Interview What would you consider your fashion style? Why would you say that is? Convenience, comfort and classic Have your style change over the years as you mature? Yes, now I wear more “classic colours”

Have you heard of C.O.S before? No, I know, where it is, but never buy anything Do you like the brand? Unanswered

What clothing item would you not wear? I don’t wear provocative clothes

Now, have you shopped in C.O.S before? If you did, could you provide us with your shopping experience? Unanswered

What type of clothes do you normally buy? Dresses, trousers, t-shirts, shoes, for children everything

What do you think of the price ranges? Are they affordable for you? Unanswered

Describe your buying behavior when it comes to fashion garments? Unanswered

Clothes wise, what do you think of it? Unanswered

How often do you shop for clothes? About one time on month

If you are the buyer/designer/marketer for COS, what would you do differently? Unanswered

What and when is the last fashion purchase you had? Describe your experience? Two weeks ago, quickly purchase dress

What is your take on the current fashion industry? It's funny, colorful and eclectic

What encourages you to buy fashion garments? (Could it be trends, sense of satisfaction etc.) Oh, when I need something, expensive. I'm going to party and need smoething new, or my favourite trousers are destroyed.

Do you think the fashion industry is inclusive? If yes, why so? If not, why not? Hmm is difficult to answer...

What are you favourite fashion brands? Please kindly name a few and why do you like then? Hmmm I haven't favourite brands Have you purchase from your favourite fashion brands before? If so, what was/were the item/items? Unanswered What are some of the fashion brands you dislike? Please kindly elaborate on your answer? Unanswered

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Can you provide me with a detailed example on why you think the fashion industry is/is not inclusive? Unanswered What do you think the fashion industry could do to improve? To make more organic and natural clothes


Figure 9.6


References & Bibliography

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References & Bibilography References Abnett, K. 2016. COS: ethics, sustainability, labor rights. [Online]. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: https://projectjust.com/ brand_cos/ Abnett, K. 2015. Do Fashion Trends Still Exist?. The Business of Fashion. [Online]. 9 January. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/ intelligence/fashion-trends-still-exist Bain, M. 2016. The US is still trending toward diversity, inclusion, and pluralism, and Donald Trump can’t change that. Quartz. [Online] 11. November. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: https://qz.com/834426/donald-trumpcant-stop-america-from-becoming-morediverse/ Beker, J. 2015. Karin Gustafsson, head of women’s-wear design at COS, on the power of understated fashion. The Globe and Mail. [Online]. 25 October. [Accessed 8 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.theglobeandmail. com/life/fashion-and-beauty/fashion/karingustafsson-head-of-womens-wear-design-atcos-on-the-power-of-understated-fashion/ article27000676/ Bourn, J. (2011). Meaning of The Color Purple. 5 January. Bourn Creative. [Online]. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http://www. bourncreative.com/meaning-of-the-colorpurple/ Chenoweth, E. and Pressman, J. 2017. Analysis | This is what we learned by counting the women’s marches. The Washington Post. [Online]. 7 February. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.washingtonpost. com/news/monkey-cage/wp/2017/02/07/thisis-what-we-learned-by-counting-the-womensmarches/?utm_term=.8ef79b8118c8 Croft Mill Fabrics. 2016. Scuba Fabric: What

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is it? How Best to Sew it? [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://blog. croftmill.co.uk/crafting-making-sewing/scubafabric/ COS. 2017. Live - COS x HAY. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www. cosstores.com/gb/COSxHAY/All/Live COS. 2017. COS × Studio Swine. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http:// www.cosstores.com/gb/Studio/Projects/ COS_Studio_Swine Fabric Godmother. 2017. Emily Wool Jersey - Grey Marl. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.fabricgodmother. co.uk/emily-wool-jersey-grey-marl/ Fabric Godmother. 2017. Chica Bi Suiting Black. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.fabricgodmother. co.uk/chica-bi-stretch-suiting-black/ Fraser, H.M. 2012. Design works: How to tackle your toughest innovation challenges through business design. Canada: University of Toronto Press. Gaimster, J. 2010. Visual research methods in fashion. New York: Berg Publishers. Howarth, D. 2014. Design and architecture has been a key influence for COS. Dezeen. [Online]. 5 November. [Accessed 8 April 2017]. Available from: https://www.dezeen.com/2014/11/05/ cos-marie-honda-interview-fashion-designarchitecture-branding-nendo-serpentinenumen-for-use/ I Want Fabric. 2017. Bi Stretch Panama Weave Dress Making Trouser Fabric. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https:// www.iwantfabric.com/bi-stretch-panamaweave-dress-making-trouser-fabric.html Joel & Sons Fabrics. 2017. Designer


References & Bibilography Turquoise/Camel Cashmere/Wool Coating (£119.90/metre). [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www. joelandsonfabrics.com/uk/10449 Kane, W. 2017. This land is your land: American reflections on Trump’s first 100 days. Common Sense News. [Online]. 30 April. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http:// www.salon.com/2017/04/29/this-land-is-yourland-american-reflections-on-trumps-first100-days_partner/ Leach, R. 2012. The fashion resource book: Research for design. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd Lenzing. 2017. TENCEL®. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www. lenzing-fibers.com/en/tencel/ LSN Global. 2016. Placemaking Summit Report 2016. London: The Future Laboratory LSN Global. 2016. The Age of Re-engagement 2016. London: The Future Laboratory #Legend. 2017. Inside the World of COS. [Online]. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http://hashtaglegend.com/post/cosfashion-inside-style-london-interview Marketing Executive Digest. No date. How to Market to the Overlooked 25-34-year-old Age Segments. [Online]. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.marketing-execs. com/news/11-08/2.asp Maye, V. 2016. Behind the brand: Meet the design team at COS. The Irish Examiner. [Online]. 9 April. [Accessed 14 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.irishexaminer. com/lifestyle/fashionandbeauty/features/ behind-the-brandmeet-the-design-team-atcos-391964.html McCallum, K. 2015. Fashion brand Cos take

pop-ups to new level. The Daily Telegraph. [Online]. 4 July. Available from: http://www. dailytelegraph.com.au/lifestyle/sunday-style/ fashion-brand-cos-takes-artistic-approach-atmilans-salone-del-mobile/news-story/6bfe1fd 625aa127ccee89d85e86b66df Minerva Crafts. 2017. Trieste Plain Peachskin Polyester Dress Fabric. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www. minervacrafts.com/shop/fabric/dress-fabrics/ trieste-m-trieste-plain-peachskin-polyesterdress-fabric Mood Designer Fabrics. 2017. Black Stretch Cotton Suiting - Stretch Cotton - Cotton - Fashion Fabrics. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www. moodfabrics.com/black-stretch-cottonsuiting-317197 Organic Textile Company. 2017. Fleece Natural (creamy). [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://organiccotton. biz/store/index.php?route=product/ product&path=108&product_id=722 Pew Research Center for the People and the Press. 2016. Early public attitudes about Donald Trump. [Online]. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.people-press.org/2017/02/16/1early-public-attitudes-about-donald-trump/ Smith, K. 2013. All About the Color PINK Meaning, Psychology, Symbolism. [Online]. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http:// www.sensationalcolor.com/color-meaning/ color-meaning-symbolism-psychology/allabout-the-color-pink-4342#.WQu_mBiZPkI Smith, J. and Maciejowska, K. 2017. The Focus Filter. LS:N Global. [Online]. 16 March. [Accessed 3 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.lsnglobal.com/macro-trends/ article/20963/the-focus-filter

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References & Bibilography Storey, S. 2016. How Diversity and Inclusion Relate To Brexit And Trump's Win. The Huffington Post. [Online]. 14 November. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http:// www.huffingtonpost.com/sylvana-storey/ how-diversity-and-inclusi_b_12915350.html The Business of Fashion. 2017. COS | Discover COS's Company Page. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://www. businessoffashion.com/community/ companies/cos University of Kansas. 2016. Chapter 27. Cultural Competence in a Multicultural World | Section 8. Multicultural Collaboration. [Online]. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http://ctb.ku.edu/en/table-of-contents/ culture/cultural-competence/multiculturalcollaboration/main Walker, H. 2012. Cos: Thoroughly modern minimalism. The Independent. [Online]. 11 June. [Accessed 14 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/ fashion/features/cos-thoroughly-modernminimalism-7834566.html Wenzke, M. 2017. One hashtag is uniting Americans in the fight against Trump. [Online]. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http://mashable.com/2017/02/02/resisthashtag-trump-america/#UkeS5.7goqqf WGSN. 2016. Spring/Summer 2018 The Vision: Kinship. London: WGSN WGSN. 2016. Spring/Summer 2018 Kinship: Women & Young Women Forecast. London: WGSN WGSN. 2016. Spring/Summer 2018 Kinship: Knit and Jersey Forecast. London: WGSN WGSN. 2016. Spring/Summer 2018 Kinship: Textiles Forecast. London: WGSN

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WGSN. 2016. Spring/Summer 2018 Colour Update for Women and Young Women. London: WGSN


References & Bibilography Bibliography

of_cos/index.html

Anon. 2012. Art project makes up for the shortage of catwalk action at COS' store preview. South China Morning Post. [Online]. 5 June. [Accessed 8 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.scmp.com/article/1003043/artproject-makes-shortage-catwalk-action-cosstore-preview

Organic Textile Company. 2017. Super Jersey White. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://organiccotton. biz/store/index.php?route=product/ product&path=261_131&product_id=693

Black, R.M. 2016. Karin Gustafsson : On Breaking The Mold. The Huffington Post. [Online]. 11 December. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.huffingtonpost. com/renata-m-black/karin-gustafsson--onbrea_b_8785800.html Broomfield, M. 2017. 2 charts which show just how huge the Women's Marches against Trump were. The Independent. [Online]. 23 January. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/ world/americas/womens-march-anti-donaldtrump-womens-rights-largest-protestdemonstration-us-history-political-a7541081. html

Posner, H. 2011. Marketing Fashion: Portfolio series. London: Lauren King Publishing. Rahman, A. 2015. COS: the rise and rise of Scandinavian fashion house. South China Morning Post. [Online]. 30 March. [Accessed 8 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/fashionwatches/article/1748630/cos-rise-and-risescandinavian-fashion-house Zhang, W. 2013. 5 questions with COS’ Marie Honda. TODAYonline. [Online]. 4 December. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.todayonline.com/lifestyle/ style/5-questions/5-questions-cos-mariehonda?singlepage=true

Deloitte. 2015. Digital Media: Rise of OnDemand Content. [Online]. India: Deloitte Touche Tohmatsu Limited. [Accessed 3 May 2017]. Available from: https://www2.deloitte. com/content/dam/Deloitte/in/Documents/ technology-media-telecommunications/intmt-rise-of-on-demand-content.pdf Hogan, E. 2001. The Attention Economy: Understanding the New Currency of Business by Thomas H. Davenport; John C. Beck – a review. The Academy of Management Executive (1993-2005). [Online]. 15(4), pp. 145-147. [Accessed 3 May 2017]. Available from http://0-www.jstor.org.wam.leeds.ac.uk/ stable/4165799 ISBN Magazine. No date. Of COS. [Online]. [Accessed 4 May 2017]. Available from: http:// www.isbn-magazine.com/web-exclusive/

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Picture References

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Figure 9.7


Picture References Figure 1.1 - Hawkins, A. 2015. Well-dress hula hooping in Lernert & Sander’s minimal fashion film for COS. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.itsnicethat.com/ articles/cos-lernert-and-sander Figure 1.2 - Business of Fashion. 2017. Women Spring Summer 2017 Campaign: Viewing | COS's Visual Portfolio. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https:// www.businessoffashion.com/community/ companies/cos/portfolio/album/80747/ bof_58b021c4dfbdb Figure 1.3 - Business of Fashion. 2017. Men Spring Summer 2017 Campaign: Viewing | COS's Visual Portfolio. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www. businessoffashion.com/community/ companies/cos/portfolio/album/80746/ bof_58b021677b087 Figure 1.4 - Business of Fashion. 2017. Men Spring Summer 2017 Campaign: Viewing | COS's Visual Portfolio. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/ community/companies/cos/portfolio/ album/80746/bof_58b02149d64e7 Figure 1.5 - Business of Fashion. 2017. Women Spring Summer 2017 Campaign: Viewing | COS's Visual Portfolio. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https:// www.businessoffashion.com/community/ companies/cos/portfolio/album/80747/ bof_58b021e0c0aad Figure 1.6 - COS. 2017. COS Spring 2017 Layers Campaign Photo 3. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores. com/gb/Women/Selected Figure 1.7 - Pinterest. 2015. COS | Campaign | Autumn and Winter 2015. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https:// uk.pinterest.com/pin/359584351476835102/

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Figure 1.8 - Pinterest. 2015. COS | Campaign | Autumn and Winter 2015. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https:// uk.pinterest.com/pin/359584351476834094/ Figure 1.9 - Drehle, D. 2017. Donald Trump’s Unprecedented, Divisive Speech. Time. [Online]. 20 January. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://time.com/4641547/ inauguration-2017-donald-trump-americafirst Figure 2.0 - Winterfeldt, M. 2017. 4 Major Design Changes Donald Trump Has Already Made to the Oval Office So Far. POPSUGAR Home. [Online]. 16 April. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.popsugar. com/home/Donald-Trump-Changes-OvalOffice-43047754 Figure 2.1 - Limoges, B. 2017. Trump’s immigration ban: ‘US is the only home we know’. Aljazeera. [Online]. 30 January. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. http://www. aljazeera.com/indepth/features/2017/01/ trump-muslim-ban-happenamerica-170130060442834.html Figure 2.2 - Kearney, L. 2017. Trump’s heartland voters shrug off global uproar over immigration ban. One America News Network. [Online]. 30 January. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.oann.com/trumpsheartland-voters-shrug-off-global-uproarover-immigration-ban/ Figure 2.3 - Tama, M. 2017. Thousands Attend Women’s March On Washington. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http:// www.gettyimages.co.uk/license/632327956 Figure 2.4 - Garfield, L. 2017. The Women’s March organizers are planning a massive ‘day without women’ strike. SFGate. [Online]. 6 February. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.sfgate.com/technology/


Picture References businessinsider/article/The-Women-s-Marchorganizers-are-planning-a-10912195.php Figure 2.5 - Korn, G. 2015. These clothes will make your minimalist dreams come true. Nylon. [Online]. 12 January. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.nylon.com/ articles/cos-spring-summer-2015 Figure 2.6 - Studio Latckers. 2016. COS HITS THE DESERT. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://studiolatckers. com/2016/02/20/cos-hits-the-desert/ Figure 2.7 - Pinterest. 2015. COS | Campaign | Spring and Summer 2015. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https:// uk.pinterest.com/pin/359584351479293990/ Figure 2.8 - Minh, t. 2017. One of the images in the series: forces of nature. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www. thismintymoment.com/kipp-harbor-times/ Figure 2.9 - Earl, I. 2017. Desert Dunes Anniversary. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: Available at: https://www. indiaearl.com/desert-dunes-anniversary/ Figure 3.0 - Miyahira. 2017. Fashion Styling. 23 January. Les Manches. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from http:// lesmechantes.com/fashion-styles/fashionstyling Figure 3.1 - New Cross Learning. 2014. Photograph of a girl holding a cup and reading. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.newcrosslearning.org/howit-works/ Figure 3.2 - Fagan, G. 2016. Photograph of a female architect. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://home. bt.com/lifestyle/house-home/interiors/5tips-for-using-an-architect-to-renovate-yourhome-11364114734580

Figure 3.3 - Gucwa, V. No Date. Soho - London Apartment For the past week I have... [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http:// travelinglens.me/post/118865517994/soholondon-apartment-for-the-past-week-i-have Figure 3.4 - Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority. 2017. Yorkshire Dales National Park. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.yorkshiredales.org.uk Figure 3.5 - Whatever Gets You Through The Day. 2014. Cafe Review: Bluebelles of Portobello, Notting Hill. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https:// whatevergetsyouthroughtheday.wordpress. com/2014/05/11/bluebelles-notting-hillreview/ Figure 3.6 - Business of Fashion. 2017. Women Spring Summer 2017 Campaign: Viewing | COS’s Visual Portfolio. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https:// www.businessoffashion.com/community/ companies/cos/portfolio/album/80747/ bof_58b021d345ce3 Figure 3.7 - Harilela, D. 2012. Photograph of a COS store in Hong Kong. [online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.thedvine.com/2012/06/the-secrets-out-cos-landsin-asia/ Figure 3.8 - Lam, E. 2017. Vancouver COS Store Opens In Gastown. The Style Spy. [Online]. 20 March. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://thestylespy.com/2017/03/vancouvercos-store-opens-in-gastown/ Figure 3.9 - Men’s Folio. 2015. Baring to nothing: A minimalist collaboration between COS and Snarkitecture in Milan - Men’s Folio. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.mens-folio. com/15121/baring-nothing-minimalistcollaboration-between-cos-and-snarkitecture-

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Picture References milan/#xOdTwolEUb1uZqm4.97 Figure 4.0 - COS. 2017. Vase - COS x Oliver Van Herpt. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores.com/es/ Studio/Projects/COS_Olivier_van_Herpt Figure 4.1- COS. 2017. Mass Modern Design by Hans Olsen x COS. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores. com/gb/Things Figure 4.2 - COS. 2017. Mass Modern Design by Hans Olsen x COS. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores. com/gb/Things Figure 4.3 - Dickinson, C. 2017. Visual Merchandising Forecast S/S 18 Kinship. London: WGSN Figure 4.4 - McCurry, S. 2017. Photograph taken in Rajasthan, India. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http:// stevemccurry.com/galleries/india-0 Figure 4.5 - McCurry, S. 2017. Photograph taken in Kolkata, India. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http:// stevemccurry.com/galleries/grand-trunk-road Figure 4.6 - McCurry, S. 2017. Photograph taken in Madhya Pradesh, India. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http:// stevemccurry.com/galleries/portraits Figure 4.7 - McCurry, S. 2017. Photograph taken in Tahoua, Niger. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://stevemccurry.com/ galleries/sahel-0 Figure 4.8 - McCurry, S. 2017. Photograph taken in Larung, Tibet. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://stevemccurry.com/ galleries/tibetan-portraits Figure 4.9 - COS. 2017. Hay Large Paper Vase

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– COS x HAY. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores.com/gb/ Studio/Projects/COS_HAY Figure 5.0 - COS. 2016. COS X Serpentine. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores.com/gb/Studio/ Projects/COS_Serpentine_2016 Figure 5.1 - COS. 2017. COS X Sou Fujimoto Salone Del Mobile. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores. com/es/Studio/Projects/COS_Sou_Fujimoto Figure 5.2 - Pinterest. 2017. 15th Century Swedish Textile Printed Linen. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https:// uk.pinterest.com/pin/531424824764276418/ Figure 5.3 - Singer, E. 2016. Minimalist Photography by Ella Singer. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://vectroave. com/2016/06/minimalist-photography-byella-singer/ Figure 5.4 - James, R. 2016. Photograph by Rachel James for Ettitude Store. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https:// www.instagram.com/p/BC_QpVPAVv-/ Figure 5.5 - Artaneh. No date. Untitled 24. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.artaneh.com/untitled-24/ Figure 5.6 - OneThreeOneFour. 2016. Korean Wedding Photography - Hanbok Photo shoot at Namsangol Hanok Village. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.onethreeonefour.com/listing/ HensheSnap/57639ef7923f18ff3bea6b91 Figure 5.7 - Singer, E. 2016. Minimalist Photography by Ella Singer. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://vectroave. com/2016/06/minimalist-photography-byella-singer/


Picture References Figure 5.8 - Pinterest. 2017. Photograph of a men walking across an orange wall in Africa. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/ pin/380343131012340443/

Figure 6.6 - Fabric Godmother. 2017. Sandwiched Tencel – Charcoal. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http:// www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/productimage. php?product_id=3430

Figure 5.9 - Zeynep. 2010. Photographs of two Africans at Ethopia. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.flickr.com/ photos/zeynepk/5250052366/

Figure 6.7 - Fabric Godmother. 2017. Verona Peachskin – Aubergine. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www. fabricgodmother.co.uk/verona-peachskinaubergine/

Figure 6.0 - Lang, M. 2017. Indian Street Photography | Photophique. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http:// photophique.com/indian-street-photography/ Figure 6.1 - Style. 2017. Chloé Wool-Blend Crochet and Fringed Coat. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://www. style.com/product/chloe-wool-blendcrochet-and-fringed-coat-7c9017a62d/?g clid=Cj0KEQjw6LXIBRCUqIjXmdKBxZUBEi QA_f50Ph8H7Rb509ehg8rK-BU7aJPId5VjznaM JXTo5OuIOLAaAgzI8P8HAQ Figure 6.2 - Farfetch. 2017. By Walid Antique Chinese Textile Coat. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://www. farfetch.com/ch/shopping/women/by-walidantique-chinese-textile-coat-item-10867398. aspx?storeid=9359&ffref=lp_6_ Figure 6.3 - Tijana. 2014. Photograph of Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.lastminute.com. au/vc/blog/pretty-in-pink-attractions/ Figure 6.4 - ThisMintyMoment. 2017. Photograph of Amangiri. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://www. instagram.com/p/BMUBRjPD4Qq/?takenby=thismintymoment&hl=en Figure 6.5 - Palmer, H. 2016. Women’s Textiles Forecast S/S18 Kinship. London: WGSN

Figure 6.8 - Amazon. 2017. Plain White 100% Cotton Fabric. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.amazon. co.uk/Plain-White-Cotton-Fabric-150cm/dp/ B01H2SLON4 Figure 6.9 - Fabric Godmother. 2017. Cashmere and Wool Coating – Camel. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http:// www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/cashmere-woolcoating-camel/ Figure 7.0 - Organic Textile Company. 2017. Fleece Natural (creamy). [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://organiccotton.biz/store/index. php?route=product/product&product_ id=722&search=fleece Figure 7.1 - Pinterest. 2017. Fabric Godmother Chica Bi-Stretch (Out of Stock) fabric – Bottle Green. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/ pin/407083253802525449/ Figure 7.2 - Fabric Godmother. 2017. Scuba - Black. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.fabricgodmother. co.uk/scuba-black/ Figure 7.3 - Organic Textile Company. 2017. Super Jersey White. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://organiccotton. biz/store/index.php?route=product/ product&path=261_131&product_id=693

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Picture References Figure 7.4 - Fabric Godmother. 2017. Emily Wool Jersey – Pink Marl. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: http://www. fabricgodmother.co.uk/emily-wool-jerseypink-marl/

Angled Hem Blouse Fashion Flat Template. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://illustratorstuff.com/collections/ frontpage/products/womens-angled-hemblouse-fashion-flat-template

Figure 7.5 - Toa.st. 2017. Making of Silk and Cotton Khadi. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.toa.st/us/ content/stories/making-of-khadi.htm

Figure 8.4 - WGSN Catwalks Team. 2016. Must Haves Pre-Fall 16: Apparel. London: WGSN

Figure 7.6 - Anon. 2017. Photograph of women separating cotton by hand. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://readtiger. com/wkp/en/Cotton Figure 7.7 - wiseGEEK. 2017. Photograph of the process of turning wool into fabric? [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http:// www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-process-ofturning-wool-into-fabric.htm Figure 7.8 - ThisMintyMoment. 2017. Photograph of Santa Monica Pier. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https:// www.instagram.com/p/BTbh5gbAnnk/?hl=en Figure 7.9 - Sinclair, R. 2017. Design Development A/W 18/19 Trousers and Shorts. London: WGSN Figure 8.0 - Sinclair, R. 2017. Design Development A/W 18/19 Dresses and Skirts. London: WGSN Figure 8.1 - Palpita, S. 2016. Desert Mystique Juniors Design Capsule Festival 2017. London: WGSN Figure 8.2 - Illustrator Stuff. 2017. Women’s Asymmetrical Hem Blouse Fashion Flat Template. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://illustratorstuff.com/ products/womens-asymmetrical-hem-blousefashion-flat-template Figure 8.3 - Illustrator Stuff. 2017. Women’s

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Figure 8.5 - Illustrator Stuff. 2017. Women’s Knot Dress Fashion Flat Template. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https:// illustratorstuff.com/products/women-s-knotdress-fashion-flat-template Figure 8.6 - Pinterest. 2017. Photograph of a tie-back shirt. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/ pin/297096906655768505/ Figure 8.7 - COS. 2017. COS Spring 2017 Layers Campaign Photo 2. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores. com/es/Studio/Collection/Spring_Layers Figure 8.8 - COS. 2017. COS Spring 2017 Layers Campaign Photo 1. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores. com/es/Studio/Collection/Spring_Layers Figure 8.9 - COS. 2017. COS Spring 2017 Layers Campaign Photo 4. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores. com/es/Studio/Collection/Spring_Layers Figure 9.0 - COS. 2017. COS Spring 2017 Layers Campaign Photo 5. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores. com/es/Studio/Collection/Spring_Layers Figure 9.1 - ThisMintyMoment. 2017. Photograph of Richard Meier architecture in Los Angeles, California. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://www. instagram.com/p/BLJkloIjIHN/?takenby=thismintymoment&hl=en


Picture References Figure 9.2 - Walcher, D. 2016. Photograph of Danielle shot by Daniel Walcher in Munich last fall. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.facebook.com/photo. php?fbid=1447874828557258&set=t.100000042631075&type=3&theater Figure 9.3 - Walcher, D. 2016. Photograph of Danielle shot by Daniel Walcher in Munich last fall. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.facebook.com/photo. php?fbid=1421947004483374&set=t.100000042631075&type=3&theater Figure 9.4 - Roura, L. 2016. Selfie taken in Paris, France. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.facebook.com/photo. php?fbid=10153977547504772&set=t.621324771&type=3&theater Figure 9.5 - Ewa. 2016. Selfie taken in The Hepworth Museum. [Online]. [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/p/BM6-N9Qhn6G/?taken-by=ka_ewka_ Figure 9.6 - ThisMintyMoment. 2017. Photograph of 1970s stairwell in London, United Kingdom. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/p/BFkFpwpKuL8/ Figure 9.7 - ThisMintyMoment. 2017. Photograph of Helmut Lang Melrose Showroom Space. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/p/BDE83bKuEL/?taken-by=thismintymoment&hl=en Cover Image - COS. 2017. COS x HAY Campaign photo 1. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores.com/gb/Studio/Projects/COS_HAY Logo – The Shops Bulkhead Atlanta. 2017. COS Logo. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://theshopsbuckheadatlanta.com/shopping/37/cos Back Image - COS. 2017. COS x HAY Campaign photo 2. [Online]. [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.cosstores.com/gb/Studio/Projects/COS_HAY

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DESN2365

COS x Focus, Trend Package (Grade 1st)  

University of Leeds / Fashion Marketing 2nd year - Trends and Forecasting. Focus, a trend concept for COS that links with the previous lif...

COS x Focus, Trend Package (Grade 1st)  

University of Leeds / Fashion Marketing 2nd year - Trends and Forecasting. Focus, a trend concept for COS that links with the previous lif...

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