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Port Townsend Olympic Peninsula



Supplement to the august 17, 2011 edition of the Leader

Photo by Jan Halliday



431 WATER STREET, PORT TOWNSEND • 360-385-3628 • WWW.NWMARITIME.ORG 2 ] 2011 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

On The Cover “the Red Door” is the title of the cover art by Michael Hale, a native of the Northwest and now a well-known Port townsend artist. the door at 211 taylor leads to the office of Port townsend’s Main Street Program Director Mari Mullen, who bought the original painting. Mullen notes the door is on the Mount Baker Block Building, which was built by Port townsend’s first mayor, Charles eisenbeis, in 1890. the building was renovated in 1999 and now houses restaurants and other businesses. Hale has been an architectural illustrator and worked in Los angeles as a scenic artist for the movie industry. Hale’s work can be seen on his colorful, oversized postcards of Port townsend. View his work at or

Getaway ©2011 Allison Arthur & Patrick J. Sullivan, editors Marian Roh, Layout & Design

Scott Wilson, Publisher Fred Obee, General Manager Patrick J. Sullivan, New Media Director Sara Radka, advertising Manager Jan Halliday, Tami Hewitt, Danielle Koagel Scott Wilson, Managing editor Allison Arthur, Gina Cole, Nicholas Johnson, Kathie Meyer, Lynn Nowak, Sunny Parsons, Renae Reed, James Robinson John Stanger, Production Manager Kathy Busic, Drew Elicker, Chris Hawley, Christopher Overman, Marian Roh Port Townsend Publishing Company Inc. 226 adams Street, Port townsend, wa 98368 360-385-2900 fax: 360-385-3422 IN DEPTH • IN TOUCH • INDEPENDENT Published continually since 1889

Across the Bridge France?

^ inDeX

Cross the Hood Canal Bridge or ride a Washington State Ferries vessel to Jefferson County and some say it’s almost like venturing to southern France or back in time to a Victorian city. With WiFi and cell service, of course. The first thing you notice about Jefferson County is the striking view of the Olympic Mountains – often covered with snow. Jefferson County – named after Thomas Jefferson, by the way – stretches from Puget Sound and Hood Canal all the way to the Pacific Ocean, with the Olympic National Park and Olympic National Forest in the center of it all. Turn right off State Route 104 onto State Route 19 and drive through farm country. Yes, Egg & I Road is named after the famous author Betty MacDonald, who wrote the book The Egg and I in 1945. Drive on to the northwest corner of the county and find Port Townsend, the only incorporated city in the county of 4,854 square miles. Jefferson County has shied away – some might say resisted – big-box stores and fast food. While you will find one McDonald’s and one Subway, don’t look for a row of other big-name restaurants. Instead, find Pedro’s Fiesta Jalisco Mexican Restaurant, Lanza’s Ristorante, the Blue Moose Café and the Spruce Goose Café. There’s an emphasis on food these days in Jefferson County. You’ll find farmers markets –– from Quilcene and Port Ludlow and Chimacum all the way to Port Townsend. As in Europe, you’ll find a lot of artisan foods in Jefferson County – from locally made cheese and local bakeries to locally made jams, locally crafted beers and wines. And yes, we have gorgeous chocolate. To some, Port Townsend is reminiscent of France, specifically the south of France. Look no further than Uptown for Sweet Laurette’s French bistro with outdoor seating, Pane d’Amore with its artisan baguettes and pastries, and a health shop that some find reminiscent of a French chemist on the corner. We’re so excited about food, frankly, we’ve started a special publication, Coastal Cuisine, to showcase the bounty of the peninsula. It’s inside this issue. Enjoy. Throughout Jefferson County, you’ll also find a rich boating culture, with an emphasis on wooden boats. Art overflows here with local art featured in many restaurants. And there’s a focus on films with three movie venues, including a drive-in – one of the last in the state. And a film festival, of course. And there’s not enough space to talk about music and parks. So come taste and experience Jefferson County for yourself – a little slice of Europe sandwiched between mountains and sea.

Regional Map ...................32

Maps & Travel east Jefferson County Map 6 Port townsend Street Map .................26,27 Crossing to Canada ........ 46 Ferry Reservations .......... 48

Fresh & Local Best Food Contest winners ..............20 Farmers' Market Choices ..22 Beer, Cider & wine tour ...23

Our Communities Only in Jefferson County .....4 a Local’s advice ................8 4-Legged Friends ..............10 tri-area & Marrowstone ... 38 Port Ludlow .................... 40 North Hood Canal ............42

Things to Do Calendar of events ...... 13-16 On the water ...................17 Boatyard walk ................. 18 Blue-tarp Camping ............33

Across the Peninsula the wild Pacific Coast .. 34,35 Our wild Friends ...............36 Sequim, Port angeles ..... 44 Oh, My, Deer ...................50

Places to Stay Port townsend.............28-29 Brinnon, Quilcene, Port Ludlow, Port Hadlock ...30-31 Bonus Pull-Out Magazine: Coastal Cuisine - An Olympic Peninsula Edible Adventure ..... center

– Allison Arthur the Port townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2011 Getaway ^ 3

The city has one solar array for every 114 residents compared to the state average of one per 3,350 residents.

^ Just for fun

Only in Jefferson County HISTORIC: There are three dis-

tricts in Port Townsend on the National Register of Historic Places: one in Uptown Port Townsend, one in downtown Port Townsend and one at Fort Worden State Park.


Fort Worden State Park is the second-most visited state park in Washington and is considered unique because it houses busi-

Farmers Market was named the best largest market in the state of Washington in 2010. More and more people in Jefferson County get produce directly from farmers. In 2007, direct sales amounted to 2 percent; by 2010 that had doubled to 4 percent. Some are aiming for 20 percent by 2020. ^

Jefferson County has a few claims to fame, including, but not limited to, the following:

FRESH FOOD: The Port Townsend

The Ann Starrett Mansion in Uptown is one of the most photographed and painted Victorian homes in Port Townsend. Painting by Miriam Lansdon

nesses, Peninsula Community College, Centrum, Copper Canyon Press, as well as numerous nonprofits.

WOODEN BOATS: Port Townsend is the wooden boat capital of the Northwest.

SOLAR POWER: Port Townsend

LONG LIFE: Women in Jefferson

County have a life expectancy of 83.2 years, the longest in the state. Men in Jefferson County have a life expectancy of 77.2 years.

RETIRE, GOLF: Port Ludlow re-

peatedly has been voted one of the best places to retire. The Port Ludlow Golf Course is considered one of the top golf courses in the state.


was named Washington Solar City of the In the Ann Starrett Year in 2009 by the Washington State Mansion, now a Victorian hotel, a University Extension Energy Program. mysterious three-tiered spiral staircase climbs up a 70-foot tower, which leads to a solar calendar adorned with frescoes of angelic maidens.

MOVIES: Jefferson County is photo-

genic. “An Officer and a Gentleman,” “Snow Falling on Cedars” and “Enough” all were filmed in Port Townsend.


here because we’re not all there,” is a famous local bumper sticker.

] The tall ship Lady Washington, portrayed as the HMS Interceptor in the film “Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl” and other movies, often is seen in our waters, including here, in Port Ludlow. Photo by Nicholas Johnson 4 ] 2011 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


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2011 Getaway ^ 5

Port Townsend

Protection Island

^ WeLcome

Passenger Ferry to San Juan Islands Fort Worden State Park

Port TownsendCoupeville Ferry

Visitor Center

Marrowstone Island

Fort Flagler State Park

Cape George Fort Townsend State Park

Naval Magazine Indian Island

Four Corners

Nordland Mystery Bay State Park

Irondale Port Hadlock


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Port Townsend Visitor Center (Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce) at Haines Place Park-and-Ride, 440 12th St. Port townsend, wa 98368 360-385-2722, 888-eNJOyPt

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d. ay R ise B


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Visitor Center

cene Riv er

To a ndo s Pe n i n s u l a



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6 ] 2011 Getaway


Olympic Peninsula Gateway Visitor Center at highway junction six miles from Hood Canal Bridge 93 Beaver Valley Road (State Route 19) Port Ludlow, wa 98365 360-437-0120 website portal through Olympic National Park Visitor Center 3002 Mount angeles Road Port angeles, wa 98362 360-565-3130 Quilcene Visitor Center (North Hood Canal Chamber of Commerce) Located in Olympic National Forest’s Quilcene Ranger District Office, 295142 Highway 101 P.O. Box 774, Quilcene, wa 98376 360-765-4999

Big Quil


Visitor Info Centers


Brinnon Visitor Center (North Hood Canal Chamber of Commerce) 306144 Highway 101, Brinnon, wa 98320 360-796-4350

the Port townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Visit Jefferson County . . .

Our Olympic National Park • Our Pacific Beaches & Rain Forest Our Wild & Scenic Rivers • Our Historic & Emerald Towns

Port Ludlow • Port Hadlock • Chimacum • Marrowstone Island • Port Townsend Brinnon & Quilcene: Emerald Towns of the North Hood Canal Western Beaches & Rain Forest Country Click on DESTINATIONS at:

We are Jefferson County . . .

The Heart of the Olympics from Coast to Coast

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2011 Getaway ^ 7

while, and even better is a beach walk or a walk/hike/bicycle venture on Artillery Hill trails. As a volunteer at the park, I am biased, but exploring the former U.S. Army Coast Artillery emplacements is the best outdoor activity you can do with your kids (bring a flashlight). The absolute best thing someone who has never been around the ocean can do is visit the Port Townsend Marine Science Center along the beach By Patrick J. Sullivan at Fort Worden. Your kids (and you) can dip your hands into touch tanks, see the skeleton of an orca whale and Port Townsend is seen as a tourist learn about our marine environment. town, and that is OK with this 22-year Do make reservations to get your resident (and I am married into a local car on the state ferry to/from Whidbey pioneer family). We are all visitors, or Island, for an overnight accommodatourists, when we are more than a few tion on any summertime weekend (for miles from our front door. Wooden Boat Festival, eight months in When on a getaway, sometimes a person simply wants to do nothing except advance) and for a specific dinnertime at your absolute favorite restaurant. Plan relax and look around. Other times, a getaway means getting fully immersed in ahead, and be happy. Do not trust Google Maps or Map the local scene. A cup of coffee and a warm, sunny spot Quest for absolute directions in our Either way, here is some advice and are simple joys of any getaway. information to make your visit that much rural county. We have South Discovery Photo by Allison Arthur and Discovery Road and Old Discovery better: of town or the county. Road, and they each stop and start. If you are in town, whether for an Yes, the bad economy has hit us, Fair warning. Likewise, cell phone afternoon or a week, go to Fort Worden too, and there are more empty storesignals can be sketchy in certain parts State Park. A drive-through is worthfronts than in past years. Still, do arrive early so you can check out the unique shops and stores (and parks and beaches) before you check into your room or attend your concert. Do not worry about the deer, even when they are a few feet from a sidewalk or a street. Our city deer (western Washington blacktails) know their way around. Also, do not be surprised to see a coyote (you will think it is a scruffy dog) around town. There are plenty of cougars roaming the rural areas, but that’s another story. We’re in the Olympic Peninsula rain shadow, with half the annual rainfall of Seattle, so it is often sunny here even when drizzling there. Still, bring a rain jacket. And even on pleasant, sunny days, the wind can kick up in the evening, so when going for that late afternoon stroll, bring along your hoodie or light jacket. If you only have time for a quick visit, be sure to go to Fort Worden State Park. If you don’t have a We have a paper mill (since 1928) Discover Pass, parking will cost you. Drive through and check out the history. It’s interesting by air or and please do be aware of what the up close. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

^ Things to Do



A Local’s Advice

8 ] 2011 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


The city has an official dog park next to Chetzemoka Park (see map on pages 26-27). Do appreciate history, in the form of the Native American culture, the architecture, the wooden boats, the Army Coast Artillery forts and the aero museum at the airport; we even have an American art deco lighting museum (Vintage Hardware and Lighting on Sims Way). OK, this may seem strange, but touch history in the form of tombstones and grave markers at Laurel Grove, Redmen’s and Fort Worden cemeteries. Questions? Go to the Visitor Information Center near the Port Townsend Safeway and ask. There are maps (including a historic homes tour map), brochures, etc. Do the same at the Olympic Gateway Visitor Center on your drive here from the Hood Canal Bridge, or the visitor centers in Quilcene and Brinnon. Finally, one last bit of advice. Delivery trucks park in the middle of Water Street, our downtown’s “main street.” Don’t park behind them and wait for the line to move; you could be there a long time.

If you want to park at any state park to explore the beaches, you’ll need a $10 day pass or a $30 Discover Pass, which is good at any state park as well as state recreation lands. The Olympic Peninsula has a lot of state parks. Your choice of pass depends on how you use those parks. Photo by Patrick Sullivan

It’s easy for visitors to the Olympic Peninsula to find a place to relax and reflect in many of the area’s parks and gardens. Photo by Kathie Meyer


state Department of Ecology says is a non-toxic odor. Depending on the wind, sometimes it even gets whiffed downtown. Some call it the smell of money. Others just call it smelly. We are a maritime community. There are rowing classes, sailboat charters and educational programs for kids and adults. Do get on the water at the Northwest Maritime Center downtown and check out what the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding in lower Port Hadlock has to offer. There are plenty of great places to eat (not just in Port Townsend; one of my favorites is the Olympic Timber House Restaurant and Lounge in Quilcene). Just do not count on getting a slice of grandma’s Italian wedding cake for dessert at Lanza’s Ristorante. The supply is always limited. First come, first served. Do not make the bed. When staying in one of our lovely motels, romantic getaways, Victorian hotels, beach cabins, etc., etc., do not make the bed. Before checkout, you could strip the bed and pile the bedding, and toss all the towels in the tub or shower. But please don’t make the bed – someone else only has to un-make it. Do get out and around Jefferson County, which is so much more than Port Townsend. Take the 37-mile drive south on U.S. Highway 101 along scenic Hood Canal to Quilcene and Brinnon (my favorite classic-car cruise). Drive the 21 miles from Port Townsend to Fort Flagler State Park on Marrowstone Island, which takes you through Port Hadlock. Do not be surprised at the quality of entertainment you find here, from Centrum concerts and workshops to comedy and live music, theater, dancing, etc., etc. Pick up a copy of the Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader newspaper and check out the Community Calendar for what is happening this week (see it also on For dog owners, do keep you pooch on a leash. Trust me, we love animals and wildlife here. But the city, Washington State Parks and Olympic National Park (with a few exceptions) all require dogs to be kept on a leash.

2011 Getaway ^ 9

^ Love ‘em, bring ‘em

By Allison Arthur

Feel free to bring Tipi with you when you travel to Port Townsend; your dog will have plenty of places to play and stay.

Port Townsend is very dog friendly. Stores downtown offer water bowls for dogs. Coffee stands offer free dog biscuits. There’s even a water fountain just for dogs at Haller Fountain. And there’s an informal off-leash dog park on Jackson Street immediately north of Chetzemoka Park. Walk Uptown on Tyler Street and you’ll even find a homeowner who not only offers fresh water but also dog biscuits – with donations accepted. Well-behaved dogs on leashes also are welcome at the Port Townsend Farmers Market on Wednesdays, but Saturdays have become crowded so there’s talk of restrictions for 2012. Check the market website (Jefferson County Farmers Market). There are a few courtesies, of course, for bringing Big Jack or Sweet Suzy to our fair city. Port Townsend does require that dogs be on leashes. You don’t want Big Jack to chase a deer – or be chased by a big buck, which has happened. And please pick up after your pet. There are plenty of free poop bags and nearby garbage cans. There are a number of businesses that cater to pets so there’s no need to leave Jack in the hot car while you enjoy the Olympic Music Festival. If Suzy is well behaved and weighs less than 30 pounds, Sandy White at Lulu’s B&B for Dogs in Port Townsend will take her. Lulu’s prides itself for caring for dogs with anxiety issues and Sandy says most dogs less than 30 pounds are pampered pooches anyway. ] Brad Mace says Simon loves to jump into his arms. Leashed and pre-peed pups are welcome at the Wednesday Port Townsend Farmers Market as well as the Sunday market in Chimacum.

10 ] 2011 Getaway


Best Friends are Welcome in PT Spunky sniffs at a free biscuit stop on Tyler Street in Uptown. Donations are accepted for biscuits. The water is free. There are plenty of water bowls at businesses and even a water fountain for dogs at Haller Fountain. Photos by Allison Arthur

Dog Townsend is a day camp and boarding operation for social dogs, but dogs need to pass an introductory test and a two-hour social test before being dropped off for longer visits. Dog Townsend also is in Port Townsend. Frog Mountain Pet Care is five miles south of Port Townsend, but it is well known for accommodating both dogs and cats. Owner Harold Elyea says he has repeat customers who go on whalewatching excursions and leave their dogs in his care. All pet-care facilities require inoculation records and that dogs be spayed or neutered. A few of the best parks in Port Townsend to stroll a distance and enjoy beaches are North Beach, Point Hudson, Chetzemoka and the Port of Port Townsend Boat Haven, where the Larry Scott Trail begins. As for treats, there are several shops that offer them. If you happen to stop by the farmers market, pick up a bag of organic dog biscuits made at the Gatheringplace, a program for adults with disabilities. The dog biscuits are made locally, fresh each week. My dog, Spunky, and I can vouch for the deliciousness of said biscuits – as well as the friendliness of Port Townsend and Jefferson County. The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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Year-Round Camping • Special Event Camping Full Hookups $20 • Partial $17 • Dry Camping $15 (per night) 11th Annual JeffCo EXPO April 28 & 29, 2011 74th Jefferson County Fair “Rock the Flock” August 12, 13 & 14, 2011 8th Annual Holiday Fair November 5 & 6, 2011 10th Annual Community Garage Sale March 17, 2012 12th Annual JeffCo EXPO April 28 & 29, 2012

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^ lots to do, events to enjoy

Full of Festivities Ongoing events Chimacum Farmers’ Market • 11 a.m.-2 p.m., Sundays through October 31 at the Chimacum corner, across from the Chevron where Highway 19 meets Chimacum and Center roads. Part of the Jefferson County Farmers Market, 360-379-9098,

Port Townsend Barcott Series • Each Wednesday through Sept. 7 on Port Townsend Bay. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, Port Townsend Farmers Market • Uptown on Saturdays through December at Tyler and Lawrence, and on Wednesdays through

September at Polk and Lawrence, 360-379-9098, info@jcfm, Port Townsend Marine Science Center • Adult and youth marine science activities throughout the year in the Natural History Exhibit, the Marine Exhibit and on the beach at Fort Worden State Park, 360385-5582, PT Shorts • Dramatic short readings by local actors presented on the first Saturday of each month at Pope Marine Building in Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Commission and produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, Protection Island cruises • Spring migration, summer puffin

Etchells Race • Noon on Thursdays through Oct. 13. Sponsored by the Port Ludlow Yacht Club,

Rowing & sailing programs • Year-round for adults and youths. Sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-385-3628, Woodcraft Workshops • Adult and youth classes in traditional woodcraft conducted year-round at Port Townsend School of Woodworking in Fort Worden State Park, 360-344-4455,

Aug. 12-14 • 74th Jefferson County Fair, “Rock the Flock,” at the fairgrounds in Port Townsend. Sponsored by Jefferson County Fair Association, 360-385-1013,

Friday Market in Port Ludlow Village Center • Each Friday through September, 360-437-0882,

Aug. 17-Sept. 4 • “Bark!” a musical by David Troy Francis, produced by Key City Public Theatre. Call or visit website for specific dates, 360-3857396,

Gallery Walk • Galleries and other art venues in Port Townsend stay open in the evening on the first Saturday of each month. Many hold opening receptions for artists and offer light refreshments.

Aug. 20 • Quilcene National Fish Hatchery 100th anniversary celebration. Exhibits, booths, children’s activities. Open to the public, 360-765-3334, ext. 3,

Living History Walking Tours • Offered weekends in downtown and the Historic Uptown District of Port Townsend through September. Call to arrange group tours. Sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003,

Aug. 20 • Summer Band Concert, 11 a.m., Port Townsend Community Center lawn for Uptown Street Fair, Aug. 20 • 20th Uptown Street Fair, with parade, music and food. Sponsored by Uptown merchants,

Maritime Skills Workshops • Conducted year-round at Port Hadlock Heritage Campus of Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding, 360-385-4948,

12 ] 2011 Getaway

Rothschild House & Commanding Officer’s Quarters • Open May through September through the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003,

August 2011

Free Friday Concerts • Presented at noon on the patio at Fort Worden State Park Commons in the summer season through midAugust. Sponsored by Centrum,

Port Townsend is home to the Wooden Boat Festival, one of the biggest events of its kind in the Northwest, the second weekend of September. Photo by Allison Arthur


28th Olympic Music Festival • Saturdays and Sundays through Sept. 4 at a dairy barn near Quilcene, 360-732-4800,

sightings and specialty cruises aboard Glacier Spirit and one on the schooner Adventuress. Sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-3855582, 800-566-3932,

Aug. 20 • Uptown Street Fair Arts & Crafts Show, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild and Uptown merchants, 360-379-3813, ptartsguild@yahoo. com, See events on page 14

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Annual Port Townsend Arts Guild

Upcoming Events Not to Miss! .20th Annual Uptown Arts & Crafts Fair, August 20, 10am - 5pm .38th Annual Crafts by the Dock (during Wooden Boat Festival), September 10 & 11, 10am - 6pm Downtown .20th Annual Holiday Arts & Crafts Fair, November 25 & 26, 10am - 5pm, Port Townsend Community Center For booths or fair info, or 360-379-3813

Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild Self-supporting non-profit since 1972.


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Events Continued from page 12

Aug. 20-21 • 13th Art Port Townsend Artist Studio Tour. Art studios open to the public on free, self-guided tour. Sponsored by Northwind Arts Alliance, Aug. 26-27 • Truth Event. Mars is the destination for the final event in a series of events at Fort Worden State Park, truthevent.blogspot. com. Aug. 27 • Chekhov’s “Ivanov,” adapted by Erik Van Beuzekom, produced by the Paradise Theatre School, 360-643-3493, Aug. 27 • 22nd Kiwanis Classic Car Show at Memorial Field in downtown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Kiwanis Club, 360-385-0706. Aug. 27 • Port Townsend Summer Band Concert at 3 p.m. at Fort Flagler State Park,

Aug. 27 • Fort Worden Fun Run, 9-11 a.m. Aug. 28 • Port Townsend Summer Band Concert at 3 p.m. at Chetzemoka Park,

September 2011 Sept. 2 • First Friday Lecture presents environmentalist Connie Gallant. Sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-3851003, Sept. 2 • PT Shorts at 7:30 p.m. at the Pope Marine Park Building, Port Townsend. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre. Sept. 3 • Protection Island Sail on the schooner Adventuress. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center, Sept. 3-5 • Party in Port Townsend/Sizzling Sidewalk Summer Sale, Labor Day weekend fun. Sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-3857911, Sept. 9-11 • 35th Wooden Boat Festival at Point Hudson.

Sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-385-3628, Sept. 9-11 • Scottish dancers, Jefferson County Fairgrounds. Sept. 10-11 • 38th Crafts by the Dock in downtown Port Townsend, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild, 360-3793813,, Sept. 17 • “The Good Food Revolution,” is the keynote address by Will Allen, founder and CEO of Growing Power and one of Time Magazine’s “Top 100 in 2010,” at the Northwest Earth Institute’s North American Gathering, 7 p.m., McCurdy Pavilion, Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by NWEI and Port Townsend’s Food Co-op, Sept. 17 • Quilcene Community Fair & Parade includes carnival, music, arts and crafts, and sportsman show. Sponsored by Quilcene Fair and Parade Association,, Sept. 17 • South County Classic Cruisers Car Show in Quilcene, 360-765-3250.

Sept. 17-18 • Antler Show at Quilcene High School gym. Trophy antlers, taxidermy specimens, guest speakers, displays, Boone and Crockett scoring, 360765-0688 or 360-765-4810, Sept. 17-18 • Cabin Fever Quilt Show, Sept. 17-18 • Farm Tour & Harvest Celebration, sponsored by WSU Jefferson County Extension, 360-379-5610, ext. 200, Sept. 18-Oct. 23 • Fall Night Cap Series. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, Sept. 23-25 • 12th Port Townsend Film Festival, “a film lover’s block party,” 360-379-1333, Sept. 24 • Il Voce, Port Ludlow Arts Council’s Gala Champagne Opener of the 2011-2012 concert season, Bay Club, Port Ludlow, 4372208,

October 2011 Oct. 1-2 • 29th Great Port Townsend Bay Kinetic Skulpture Race. Sponsored by Port Townsend Kinetic Konsortium, 360-379-4972, Oct. 1 • Fall Bird Migration Cruise aboard the Glacier Spirit views wildlife at Protection Island, sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center, Oct. 1 • PT Shorts at 7:30 p.m. in Pope Marine Park Building, Port Townsend. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre. Oct. 3 • Key City Public Theatre 2012 season preview event, 5:30 p.m. Call or visit website for specific dates, 360-385-7396, Oct. 6 • Girls’ Night Out in downtown Port Townsend. ] Entries of all shapes and sizes show up in the Great Port Townsend Bay Kinetic Skulpture Race in October where using the letter “K” in all kases is konsidered kool, including when describing the kween. Leader file photo

14 ] 2011 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, Oct. 6-9 • Jazz Big Band Intensive at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, Oct. 6-9 • Autumn Nonfiction Weekend at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, Oct. 6-30 • “Dracula,” adapted from Bram Stoker’s novel, produced by Key City Public Theatre. Call or visit website for specific dates, 360385-7396,

Oct. 8 • Fall Bird Migration Cruise aboard the Glacier Spirit views wildlife at Protection Island, sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center, Oct. 14-15, 21-22, 28-31 • Hauntownsend at Jefferson County Fairgrounds, Oct. 15 • Centrum Gala Dinner & Auction, 360-385-3102, Oct. 16 • Food Co-op Apple Fest, a fall celebration of all things apple, Oct. 22-23 • Rummage Sale & Halloween Costume Extravaganza, sponsored by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, Oct. 29 • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Fall Concert at 7:30 p.m. at Chimacum High School auditorium, preconcert lectures with Maestro Dewey Ehling at 6:45 p.m., Oct. 31 • Downtown Trick or Treat Parade in Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911,

November 2011 Nov. 3 • Comedy Night at Key City Public Theatre, 8 p.m., 360-3857396,

A passerby tips the members of the jug band Crow Quill Night Owls. Banjo player Alexandra Anagnostopoulos, guitarist Kit Stymee and washtub bassist Baylin Spiedel often busk on sunny days. “This is how we make our money,” Spiedel said, “so we try to come out as often as possible.” Photo by Gina Cole


Oct. 7 • First Friday Lecture presents Leader publisher Scott Wilson, who speaks about the history of the Leader newspaper. Sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003,

Nov. 4 • Fall general auditions for Key City Public Theatre at Key City Playhouse, 6 p.m., 360-3857396, Nov. 4 • First Friday Lecture. Sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003, Nov. 5 • PT Shorts at 7:30 p.m. Pope Marine Park Building, Port Townsend. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre. Nov. 5-6 • Annual Holiday Fair at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend. Sponsored by county fair association, 360-3851013, Nov. 5-6 • Port Townsend Woodworkers Show at American Legion Hall in downtown Port Townsend, Nov. 6-7 • Wordplay Reading “Eleemosynary” by Lee Blessing, 2:30 p.m., sponsored by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, Nov. 10 • Cashore Marionettes, scenes from everyday life set to classical music, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, Bay Club, 360437-2208, portludlowartscouncil. com. Nov. 11 • Veterans Day Ceremony at American Legion Post 26, with performance by Port Townsend Summer Band,

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader TBD • West End Weekend, sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003, Nov. 25-26 • Holiday Arts & Crafts Fair at Port Townsend Community Center. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild, 360379-3813,, TBA • Port Townsend Marine Science Center Gift Shop Sale and fish printing, on the pier at Fort Worden State Park, 360-385-5582, Nov. 26 • Thanksgiving Cruise aboard the Glacier Spirit views wildlife at Protection Island, sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center, Nov. 26 • Merchants’ Holiday Open House in downtown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911,

December 2011 Dec. 1-23 • “The Best Christmas Pageant Ever,” produced by Key City Public Theatre. Call or visit website for specific dates, 360-3857396, Dec. 3 • Community Treelighting & Parade with Santa in downtown

Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, Dec. 3 • PT Shorts at 7:30 p.m. at the Pope Marine Park Building, Port Townsend. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre. Dec. 3 • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Holiday Concert at 7:30 p.m. at Chimacum High School auditorium, preconcert lectures with Maestro Dewey Ehling at 6:45 p.m., Dec. 4 • Good Lovelies “Under the Mistletoe” concert sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, Bay Club, 360-437-2208, Dec. 4 • Holiday Tour of Victorian Homes, 2-8 p.m. Self-guided tour sponsored by the Victorian Society in AmericaNorthwest Chapter, 360-379-2847, Dec. 10-11 • Chimacum Arts & Crafts Fair, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. at Chimacum High School, in support of school activities, 360-732-4015, Dec. 31 • First Night Celebration, sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003, See events on page 16 2011 Getaway ^ 15


Jefferson County not only has classic old Victorian buildings, it plays host to a number of classic car shows. Check them out in the summer. Photo by Nicholas Johnson

Events Continued from page 15

Dec. 31 • New Year’s Eve Cruise aboard the Glacier Spirit views wildlife at Protection Island, sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center,

January 2012 TBA • Strange Brewfest in Port Townsend. Jan. 20 • Valeri Glava & Lee Toboulian of the former USSR Republic of Moldova and the USA, respectively, perform classical to bluegrass music, from Broadway to the theaters of Europe, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, Bay Club, 360-437-2208,

February 2012 TBA • 21st annual Shipwrights’ Regatta. Sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-385-3628, 16 ] 2011 Getaway

Feb. 17 • The Perfect Gentlemen recreate close harmonies of the Ink Spots and Pied Pipers, barbershop, a cappella and occasionally accompanied, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, Bay Club, 360437-2208, portludlowartscouncil. com. TBA • Olympic Peninsula Salmon Derby, formerly called the Discovery Bay Salmon Derby, sponsored by Gardiner Salmon Derby Association, Presidents Day weekend, TBA • Playwrights’ Festival, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, Feb. 25 • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Winter Concert at 7:30 p.m. at Chimacum High School auditorium, pre-concert lectures with Maestro Dewey Ehling at 6:45 p.m., porttownsendorchestra. org.

March 2012 March 1-31 • Port Townsend Public Library Community Read, community members read the

same book, with discussion groups, speakers and readings, 360-3853181, March 16-18 • Northwest Maritime Spring Boating Symposium. Sponsored by Northwest Maritime Center and Wooden Boat Foundation, TBA • 25th annual Stars of Tomorrow youth talent show at Port Townsend High School auditorium, 360-379-0520. March 10 • Buzz Brass, instrumental quintet, performs classics. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, Bay Club, 360-437-2208, March 23-25 • Victorian Heritage Days. Sponsored by Victorian Society in America, Northwest Chapter, March 16-18 • Fort Worden Kitemakers Conference at Fort Worden State Park,

April 2012 April-May • Spring White Cap Series on Port Townsend Bay. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association,

April 14 • The Bills, concert series finale, features return engagement by these four, performing folk music of Europe, Latin America and the wandering Romany peoples, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, Bay Club, 360-437-2208, April 28 • Children’s Festival of Art. Sponsored by Youth Arts Council, 360-385-0655. April 28 • 15th annual AAUW Kitchen Tour sponsored by AAUW Port Townsend and University Women’s Foundation, April 28 • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Spring Concert at 7:30 p.m. at Chimacum High School auditorium, preconcert lectures with Maestro Dewey Ehling at 6:45 p.m., TBA • Earth Day Spring Cleanup in downtown and Uptown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911,

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

^ maritime community

] Teenage sailors haul their craft onto the Compass Rose courtyard at the Northwest Maritime Center on the downtown waterfront. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

On the Water By Patrick J. Sullivan

Boats have been around Port Townsend since long before there even was a Port Townsend. Pacific Northwest coastal tribes came and went in their canoes on what is now known as the Salish Sea, from here in Puget Sound north into Canadian waters. Today, you, too, can get on the water, as a visitor or a local. Launch a sea kayak, maneuver a rowing scull, or crew the type of sail/oar longboat Capt. Vancouver put ashore here in 1791. Lend a hand on a majestically fast schooner or go on a whale watch. The water is front and center at the Northwest Maritime Center (the big yellow and red buildings), also home to the Wooden Boat Foundation (360-385-3628). Maritime programs include charters, tours, classes, family boatbuilding and a popular summer program for kids called “Messing About in Boats.” Stop by and watch boats come together in the NWMC shop. This is the second full summer the NWMC (also a rental venue for weddings, conferences and other events) has been in operation. The NWMC beachfront and decks are accessible to the public 24/7, and next door, the City of Port Townsend has rebuilt Pope Marine Park. On Wednesday and Friday evenings, local sailors in boats large and small race

on Port Townsend Bay. The Port of Port Townsend (360-385-0656) offers moorage at Point Hudson Marina (next to the NWMC) and at the main Boat Haven. Not everyone gets around with sails. The Rat Island Rowing & Sculling Club ( is the center of the local universe when it comes to rowing craft. The 18th Rat Island Regatta is June 25. Locals know (and visitors learn the hard way) not to take their small craft around the Point Wilson Lighthouse into the Strait of Juan de Fuca unless they are ready for the rough currents the open water presents. For a casual row, stick to the city shoreline. Before a vessel sails, it must be built, and that’s why people attend the Northwest School of Wooden

Boatbuilding in Port Hadlock (360-3854948, A separate entity from the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, the school recently constructed a new classroom building. The school teaches the distinctive methods developed in the early 1900s by Puget Sound shipwrights and master boatbuilders. It conducts a full-time vocational study program with students from around the world, and also offers noncredit courses and workshops. Be prepared to see U.S. Navy warships and submarines along our shore. Across the bay, Naval Magazine Indian Island stores bombs, bullets and missiles. Last but not certainly not least, Port Townsend can be your base for whale watching. The Hanke family has operated on these waters since 1985 and presents a 98 percent success rate when it comes to spotting whales. Puget Sound Express (360-385-5288, is based at Point Hudson Marina with regular service to the San Juan Islands, plus special cruises. Northwest Maritime Center Port of Port Townsend

^ June’s Rat Island Regatta involves a 7.8-mile course that takes boats from Fort Worden State Park, southeast by Point Hudson, across the bay, around Rat Island and back. Photo by Gina Cole The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2011 Getaway ^ 17

^ Walk through the boatyard

On the Hard By James Robinson

18 ] 2011 Getaway

can wander the boatyard, checking out boats on the hard and shipwrights, finishers and other craftspeople hard at work. Stroll along the newly completed A and B docks to view boats in the water. The port is a working shipyard and pedestrians should watch for truck traffic and the heavy haulout, which may be moving ships to and from the water. The heavy haulout is a massive blue apparatus with huge tires and canvas slings used for transporting boats. The port’s heavy lift is capable of hauling vessels up to 150 feet long with a maximum beam of 30 feet, 6 inches and a weight of up to 330 tons. A selling point from the business standpoint: A boat owner can have their craft hauled here, and can do the work themselves and/or hire any marine trades firm they choose. “We have the only open public

Mobile boat hoists (this one handles 330 tons) are used to move boats in and out of the water. This is the historic schooner Adventuress going off the hard and into the water. Photo by James Robinson


Visitors here have an opportunity every day to see historic vessels (on the hard and on the water) and watch a shipwright or other skilled craftsman at work. From foundries and forges to woodworking shops, commercial fishing boats and blue-water sailboats, find it all in Port Townsend. The Port of Port Townsend Boat Haven is home to more than 475 commercial and recreational vessels, and more than 60 marine trades businesses. It is home to a wealth of expertise in the design, construction, maintenance and restoration of all types of vessels – from kayaks to deep sea fishing vessels and sailboats worthy of a blue-water adventure. The shipyard also features restaurants, a brewery and fresh seafood vendors that all make for interesting stops on a stroll through some of Port Townsend’s richest maritime history. The best way to explore the Boat Haven is by foot, although visitors arriving by car will likely enter the shipyard through its main entrance on Haines Place, across from McDonald’s and Safeway on Sims Way. Once in the Boat Haven, visitors can follow Haines Place past the Port Townsend Brewing Co. and the Blue Moose Café to the public restrooms and parking area along the beach near the Larry Scott trailhead – just follow Haines Place toward the water. The Larry Scott trailhead provides pedestrians and bicyclists with miles of paved trail southward along Port Townsend Bay then west toward Cape George. From the public parking area, visitors

boatyard on the West Coast,” said Jim Pivarnik, the port district’s deputy director, adding that the port commissioners have remained intent on keeping the docks and yard open and accessible. “It’s also an ever-changing yard,” Pivarnik said. “Last year, we had Winston Churchill’s yacht in the yard. It was pretty incredible. Always keep a look out for famous boats.” In addition to historic vessels and skilled craftspeople, the Boat Haven is home to a maritime language all its own. Visitors can keep their ears open and learn to talk the talk while on their shipyard tour. The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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2011 Getaway ^ 19

Mmm, Mmm, Good The number-one question asked at the Port Townsend Visitor Center is no surprise: “Where is a good place to eat?” For the past 15 years, the Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader has hosted a “Best Foods” contest. The competition is meant to offer locals and other regulars the chance to vote for their favorite eateries. Admittedly, it is an unscientific poll.

But that’s the beauty of this city and county: From the corner cafés to the waterfront restaurants, from the mobile food carts at local festivals to our coffeehouses, this is a great place to eat, and any place you try has something great to offer. Here is a list of the winners of our 2010 contest. We’ll leave the rest up to your taste buds.

2010 Leader Best Foods Contest Best Steak: 1) Ajax Café, Port Hadlock, 2) The Belmont, 3) T’s Restaurant Best Seafood: 1) Fins Coastal Cuisine, 2) Ajax Café, Port Hadlock, 3) Silverwater Café Best Asian: 1) Ichikawa Japanese Cuisine, 2) Khu Larb Thai, 3) 1-2-3 Thai Food Best Mexican: 1) Pedro’s Fiesta Jalisco, Port Hadlock; 2) El Sarape, 3) La Isla Best Service: 1) Mean Bean Coffee Co., 2) Bayview Restaurant, 3) Ichikawa Most Romantic: 1) Lanza’s Ristorante, 2) T’s Restaurant, 3) The Belmont

Bloomers Landing in Port Hadlock received top honors for its burger in the 2010 Leader Best Foods contest. Photo by James Robinson


^ Places to eat

Best Healthy, Local, Organic: 1) The Food Co-op deli, 2) Owl Sprit Café, 3) Aldrich’s Market Best Baked Goods: 1) Pane d’Amore Bakery, 2) Sweet Laurette’s Café & Bistro, 3) Courtyard Café Best Pasta: 1) Lanza’s Ristorante, 2) Fountain Café, 3) Silverwater Café Best Pizza: 1) Waterfront Pizza, 2) Ferino’s Pizzeria, Port Hadlock, 3) Lanza’s Ristorante Best New Restaurant: 1) Owl Sprit Café, 2) Water Street Creperie, 3) McClane’s Café Best Hamburger: 1) Bloomers Landing, Port Hadlock, 2) Sirens Pub, 3) The Public House Grill Best Coffee: 1) Mean Bean Coffee Co., 2) Undertown, 3) On Common Grounds Best Breakfast: 1) Blue Moose Café, 2) Salal Café, 3) Spruce Goose Café Most Food for the Buck: 1) 1-2-3 Thai, 2) Chimacum Café, 3) Blue Moose Café Best Soup: 1) Aldrich’s Market, 2) Bayview Restaurant, 3) McClane’s Café Best Sandwiches: 1) Jordini’s, 2) Courtyard Café, 3) Bayview Restaurant Best Fish ’n’ Chips: 1) Sea J’s Café, 2) McClane’s Café, 3) Scampi & Halibut Seafood Grill, Port Hadlock Best Pie: 1) Chimacum Café, 2) Bayview Restaurant, 3) McClane’s Café Best Dessert: 1) Elevated Ice Cream Co., 2) Sweet Laurette’s Café & Bistro, 3) Chimacum Café


Best Takeout: 1) 1-2-3 Thai Food, 2) Khu Larb Thai, 3) Bloomers Landing, Port Hadlock Laurette McRae of Sweet Laurette’s Café & Bistro in Uptown shows off her coconut macaroons at the Port Townsend’s Main Street program’s Taste of Port Townsend event. Photo by Nicholas Johnson

20 ] 2011 Getaway

Best Happy Hour: 1) Sirens Pub, 2) Silverwater Café, 3) Port Townsend Brewing Co. The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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Whether traveling for business or pleasure you will enjoy the warm hospitality and casual elegance of a stay at the Bishop Victorian Hotel, Port Townsend’s only AAA Three Diamond Hotel. Our one and two bedroom suites have private baths, fireplaces, water views, special multi-night stay packages, games, puzzles, books, complimentary continental breakfast, privileges at The Athletic Club and more. Rooms include HD TVs/DVDs. Pet friendly, too. We are also able to help you plan memorable culinary or eco-tourism activities. Free wireless and wired Internet access in each suite, and wireless in our lobby. Guest computer available with free Internet access. Garden wedding/reception venue.

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Washington, Taylor & Tyler Streets • Downtown Port Townsend 2011 Getaway ^ 21

Find it fresh By Allison Arthur

Food is a hot topic around the world these days and Jefferson County is considered a leader in the Northwest on food issues. Jefferson County is big on growing its own food. We have four farmers’ markets – from Port Townsend to Quilcene – where you can sample food direct from the farmers who grow it. If you miss market day, the Food Coop offers local produce, flowers, seeds and products as does the Chimacum Corner Farmstand, which advertises that it has “food from here.”

Jefferson County’s awareness about food is being recognized this year by the Northwest Earth Institute meeting in Port Townsend Sept. 17, bringing Will Allen, founder and CEO of Growing Power, Inc. to Fort Worden State Park for the conference. A former professional basketball player, Allen is considered a leader in what is called the “Good Food Revolution.” The theme this year is “If Not Me, Then Who? Building Health Communities and Local Food Systems One Conversation at a Time.” If that’s too much politics to chew on, then consider the Farm Tour Sept. 18 and discover fresh air and fresh produce around the county. The tour is organized by Washington State University Cooperative Extension. Like farmers’ markets throughout the Northwest – and I’ve had the pleasure of visiting them from Friday Harbor to Vashon Island to Manzanita, Ore. – there’s plenty of fresh produce and flowers at markets. But there’s also local flavor of each community – whether it’s locally made cheese or bagels or handmade pies, or just conversation. Visiting a farmers’ market connects you instantly to the


Jack Yakush, who works for Red Dog Farm, readies for the Chimacum Farmers’ Market, which is held on Sundays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. through October. Photo by Scott Wilson

22 ] 2011 Getaway


^ Support our farmers' markets

The Port Townsend Farmers Market booth has an ATM machine and will gladly issue tokens in $20 increments that can be used like cash at the market. The wooden tokens are almost too pretty to use. Photo by Allison Arthur

place you are visiting. The Port Townsend Farmers Market, packed into one block of the Uptown Historic District, has the distinction of being “one of the top 10 culinary destinations on the Olympic Peninsula,” according to market manager Will O’Donnell, a farmer and creamery founder. The market was recognized as the 2010 Farmers Market of the Year in the large market category by the Washington State Farmers Market Association. For a quick snack and sample of three local products all in one bite, check out Bob’s Bagels and pick up “The Local.” It’s a bagel with Cape Cleare Fishery smoked salmon and Mt. Townsend Creamery’s fromage blanc. And yes, it’s true: Cape Cleare catches every fish, one at a time by hook and line. Frozen at sea, they are biked to the market. So come on over and talk to your vendors and find out where they are from, why they do what they do, what their life stories are. Food: It’s the one thing people have in common everywhere. And it’s something we have a lot of on the Olympic Peninsula – fresh food and good conversations about it. See markets on page 24 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

^ Wet your whistle

Beer, Wine, Cider From beer to wine to hard cider, Port Townsend visitors wishing to wet their whistles have a number of fine, locally crafted options available, with some proprietors serving right downtown and others within 25 minutes of downtown. For beer connoisseurs, Port Townsend Brewing Company’s tasting room is located along the main highway across from Safeway in the Port Townsend Boat Haven shipyard. The tasting room offers a number of beers on tap, bottled beers to take away and live music three times a week during the summer. In addition to providing a home for the Port Townsend Brewing Company, the city is also home to the Strange BrewFest – an annual beer festival held in January that draws brewers and beer enthusiasts from around the Pacific Northwest. In 2011, the event found a new home at the Marvin G. Shields American Legion hall on Water and Monroe streets in downtown Port Townsend. For wine enthusiasts, the Port Townsend area offers three wineries with tasting rooms open to the public: FairWinds Winery, about two miles west of downtown; Sorensen Cellars, just outside the city limits off State Route 20; and Eaglemount Wine & Cider in Chimacum Valley. Established in 1998, Sorensen Cellars is a family winery that produces about 1,500 cases of wine per year. Sorensen Cellars makes a cabernet sauvignon, The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

sangiovese, Malbec and a red blend called Townsend Bay Point Wilson Red. The winery is easily accessed off the highway just outside the city limits. FairWinds Winery produces aligoté, lemberger, gewürtztraminer, cabernet sauvignon, a cabernet-merlot blend and blush wines, as well as port and mead. Two retired Coast Guard couples started the winery in 1993 and opened the tasting room in 1996. Their aim is to produce wines made from the lesser-known Washington state varietals, along with more mainstream selections. Eaglemount offers five reds: Eaglemount Red, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah; a merlot; Raptor, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc; Osprey, a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc; and a shiraz. In addition, it makes a riesling and a rosé. For visitors with a taste for hard cider, a sense of adventure and a bit more time, three family-owned cideries – Finnriver Farm & Cidery, Eaglemount Wine & Cider and Alpenfire Cider – lie just beyond the city limits, creating an opportu-


By James Robinson

FairWinds Winery is the oldest of the current wineries in Port Townsend, with a tasting room that is included on a winery tour. Photo by Nicholas Johnson

nity for an easy car loop tour or bicycle ride through Chimacum Valley. Here’s an idea: Drive or ride a 38-mile “cider loop” beginning and ending in downtown Port Townsend. Travel time is about an hour by car, but factor in additional time for tasting at the cideries. Bicyclists should plan at least a half-day. Chimacum Valley offers verdant farmlands, gorgeous views of Discovery Bay from high sandstone bluffs, twisty rural routes, and opportunities to meet the producers at Finnriver Farm, Eaglemount Wine & Cider and Alpenfire Cider. Finnriver Farm is in Chimacum Valley about 14 miles from town. The farm offers sparkling hard ciders, dessert wines and liqueurs, including Artisan Sparkling Cider and Farmstead Sparkling Cider – both pressed and handcrafted on the farm from wild homestead and organic Washington apples. See cider on page 24 2011 Getaway ^ 23

Cider Continued from page 23

Port Townsend

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oo Old Tarb This map will guide you to the tasting rooms Coyle Rd . Shine of our local wine-, cider- and beer-producing establishments.

Quilcene] 2011 Getaway 24

Eaglemount Wine & Cider 2350 eaglemount Road Port townsend 360-732-4084 Finnriver Farm & Cidery 62 Barn Swallow Road Chimacum 360-732-6822 fi

South Point


Eaglemount Wine & Cider 2350 eaglemount Road Port townsend 360-732-4084

. Rd

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FairWinds Winery 1984 Hastings ave. w. Port townsend 360-385-6899


Port Hadlock Chimacum


r Rd.

Four Corners


Naval Magazine Indian Island

Port Townsend Brewing Company 330 10th St., Port townsend 360-385-9967 tasting-room hours: Call for times.

Alpenfi re Cider 220 Pocket Lane MarrowstonePort townsend Island 360-379-8915 alpenfi


★ Winery ★PT Brewing ★ Sorensen Hastings


Sorensen Cellars 274 Otto St., Bldg. S Port townsend 360-379-6416

Shine Tidelands State Park

The salmon sandwich is a favorite at the Port Townsend Farmers Market. Look for homemade tamales and fi sh tacos as well as elegant chocolates, paprika-infused fudge and authentic Mexican food and local shellfi sh. Photo by allison arthur


Eaglemount Wine & Cider produces four varieties of cider: Homestead, Cyser, Ginger and Perry. Its Homestead Cider is made from heirloom-variety apples grown in Eaglemount’s homestead orchard, other old orchards and from its new cider-apple orchard. It is available in dry, semi-sweet and sweet. The Cyser Cider is a hard cider fermented and sweetened with honey. The Ginger Cider is made of the same hard cider as the Homestead but with organic ginger flavor. Perry Cider is a semisweet, slightly carbonated cider crafted from organically grown pears. Alpenfi re Cider (formerly known as Wildfi re Cider), about nine miles west of town, offers five ciders, four of which are certified organic, and a barrel-aged vinegar. Alpenfi re Cider’s choices range from Spark Bittersweet to Organic Pirate’s Plank “Bone Dry” Cider, Organic Ember Semi-Sweet Cider and Organic Apfelwein, made in the German tradition.

Markets Continued from page 22

For fresh food direct from farmers, check out these farmers’ markets. • Port Townsend Farmers Market runs Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. April through October, and 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. November and December in Uptown. • Chimacum Farmers’ Market is open Sundays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. May through October at the intersection of Rhody Drive (SR 19) and Center Road. • Port Townsend Wednesday Market is Wednesdays from 3 to 6 p.m. starting mid-June through the end of September. • Port Ludlow Friday Market runs Fridays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. May through September at the Village Center. • Quilcene Market, just off U.S. Highway 101, is Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., starting in June and running through the summer. See jeffersoncounty the Port townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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Navigating Sacred Paths

Walking retreats, events, and classes on the Olympic Peninsula • Navigating Sacred Paths - A weekend beachside pilgrimage in Port Townsend, Washington • Inspired by Place - Writing haiku inspired by places that touch the heart • Creating Sacred Spaces - De-cluttering for an abundant life • Celtic Spiritual Practices - Explore the sacred connection between spirit, body, and creation

... Find the sacred wherever you are • (360) 477-0355

Minor Emergency & Walk-in Clinic


2500 W. Sims Way, Suite 1

Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-344-3663 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Injuries ~ Illness ~ X-ray & Lab ~ Physicals ~ Drug Screens Serving You since 2006 L&I, Medicare, Major Insurance

Experience You Can Trust

John A Kremer II MD - Catherine L Bray MD - James C Blair PA-C 2011 Getaway ^ 25


Experience PT!

Walk or pedal: Experience this pedestrianand bike-friendly community. Look for “public trail” signs. The self-guided Port Townsend Walking Map and a Quimper Peninsula Bicycle Map are available at City Hall, the visitor center and various businesses. Park-and-Ride: Now that you’ve driven here, consider parking at the Haines Place Park-and-Ride just off the city’s main

C entrance. People with RVs and other large vehicles should park here and take a shuttle bus downtown. The Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center is located here. It’s next to Kah Tai Lagoon Nature Park, a bird-watching favorite. Kid stuff: Visiting kids of all ages always enjoy an indoor public swimming pool and school playground equipment. ’Boarders roll at the skate park downtown. Check out the ice cream parlors, funky clothing and thrift stores, and coffee shops. And there’s always the beach! Theaters: Thespians are on stage at Key City Public Theatre, which has been active for more than 50 years and is now located downtown on Washington Street. Motion pictures play at the classic Rose Theatre, also downtown (PT Film Festival center each September), the historic Uptown Theatre in Uptown, and the vintage WheelIn Motor Movie just south of town. Fort Worden State Park: Starting in 1902, Army Coast Artillery soldiers kept watch here, and in the 1960s, juvenile delinquents were evaluated here. Now, many musicians, writers, dancers and artists create here. Campers, boaters, divers, sunbathers and beach walkers relax. Sandcastles and marine science knowledge are built. Historians teach and tour.


Chetzemoka Park: Choose your piece of sunshine or shade, grassy lawn, gazebo or picnic table. Walk through the rose arbor, walk the beach. Run your dog off leash at a special park next door.




Uptown National Historic District: Victorian ladies shopped and lived here to avoid the rough-and-tumble waterfront district. Today, seniors and kids share a community center. There are farmers markets on Saturdays and Wednesdays. From the theater to the market, you can shop, dine and enjoy Uptown businesses.

Beach access: “Footprint” symbols on the map lead you to easy public beach access. Wildlife uses these beaches, too, so please stay clear of seal pups and don’t let your dogs chase birds. If you have a state license, drop your crab pot from a public dock. Saltwater swimming is OK. Just know that Port Townsend Bay has an average temperature of about 54 degrees F.






Downtown National Historic District: Pioneers settled this narrow, sea-level spot in 1851. Ship captains from around the world came to this port. Now, you can find art galleries, antiques, unique shops and great restaurants. Enjoy pubs, hotels, coffee shops, beach access, public docks, offshore moorage, kayak and small-boat launches, and rental and ferry services.

Point Hudson: Find your best publicbeach-walk access here, where Capt. George Vancouver came ashore in 1792. Native Americans camped here; Coast Guard trainees and soldiers were on duty here. Most of the area is now owned by the public port district. You can row, paddle or sail with Northwest Maritime Center/ Wooden Boat Foundation programs.


Architecture: Fine craftsman-built examples of architecture, including Victorian and Greek Revival. Folks live and work in these homes and commercial and government buildings dating from the 1800s and early 1900s.

Great for walking and biking!

Uppe W


Now that you’re here, these are some of the “must see” points of interest and things to experience in Port Townsend.


Bish Pa

Urgent Care

WELCOME Larr y Sc ott T rail

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Lea

Strait of Juan de Fuca

North Beach County Park

53 RD


Dive Park


49 TH


Jefferson County Fairgrounds

. VE


Fort Worden State Park

North Beach



McCurdy Wheeler Pavilion Theater




Blue Heron Middle School




Marine Science Center

Coast Artillery Museum

McGarraugh Park



Whale Watching & Passenger Ferry to the San Juan Islands


Morgan Sather Hill











Larr y Sc ott T rail

he Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader




Urgent Care



Bishop Park


/ 20


w p to


st Po ce Offi

ty un use Co rtho N ER u TO WAT Co NG




Castle Hill ✚



Medal of Honor Memorial


y rar e Lib Fir all H

Mt. View Commons Police Station & Swimming Pool

Kah Tai Lagoon Nature Park


Port Townsend High School

Port Townsend Golf Course

Grant Street Elementary




19 TH

Upper Sims Way

Chetzemoka Park






Dundee Hill





Happy Valley


Farmers Market ller Ha ntain u Fo


Memorial Field

Wooden Boat Foundation

Skate Park

all yH Cit

n to w n w Union

City Dock

Maritime Dock



l le , upe v i to C o Isl and y r r Fe be y Whid

yard Ship

Port of Port Townsend

Beach access

Points of Interest

Boat launch




Off-leash dog park

Walking trails



Commanders Beach House • 400 Hudson St, PT 98368 • 360-385-1778 • 888-385-1778 •




Holly Hill House B&B • 611 Polk St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-5619 • 800-435-1454 •




Inn at McCurdy House • 405 Taylor St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-4824 •


130 250

Old Consulate Inn • 313 Walker St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-6753 • 800-300-6753 •




Quimper Inn • 1306 Franklin St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-1060 • 800-557-1060 •




Ravenscroft Inn • 533 Quincy St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-2784 • 800-782-2691 •


109 210

Thornton House • 1132 Garfield St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-6670 •


120 150

Pool/Hot or Jetted Tub

Handicap Access






Mtg Facilities


Comp. Breakfast

Blue Gull Inn B&B • 1310 Clay St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-3241 • 888-700-0205 •

Rate (Max.)

PT Bed & Breakfast

Rate (Min.)

# of Units


Description Great breakfast

B&B by the beach


Warm hospitality

R •

Private, relaxing retreat


Historic mansion


Views, quiet


Water & mt. views Historic Victorian farmhouse

PT Hotels & Motels Aladdin Motor Inn • 2333 Washington St, PT 98368 • 360-385-3747 • 800-281-3747 •

30 70


A Suite at the Fountain • 914 Washington St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-643-1370 •


150 250

Ann Starrett Mansion • 744 Clay St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-3205 • 800-321-0644 •




Belmont, The • 925 Water St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-3007 •




Bishop Victorian Hotel, The • 714 Washington St, PT 98368 • 360-385-6122 • 800-824-4738 •

16 109 235

Clam Cannery • 111 Quincy St, PT 98368 • 206-718-5401 •


Fort Worden State Park Conference Center • 200 Battery Way, PT 98368 • 360-344-4400 •

35 150 410

Harborside Inn • 330 Benedict St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-7909 • 800-942-5960 •

63 80


Manresa Castle • 7th & Sheridan St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-5750 • 800-732-1281 •

41 109 229

Palace Hotel • 1004 Water St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-0773 • 800-962-0741 •

19 59


Port Townsend Inn • 2020 Washington St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-2211 • 800-216-4985 •

36 59


Swan Hotel, The • 216 Monroe St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-1718 • 800-824-4738 •

13 90


Tides Inn • 1807 Water St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-0595 • 800-822-8696 •

45 54


Washington Hotel • 825 Washington St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-774-0213 • Waterstreet Hotel • 635 Water St, PT 98368 • 360-385-5467 • 800-735-9810 •

4 110 165 16 45 160

• • •

200 495


View of bay Downtown, 2BR, kitchen

Victorian mansion

Classic old hotel




Distinctive suites

Newly renovated on the water

Houses: 1–11 bdrms

Water view–all rooms

Full service hotel

Victorian hotel

Motel near water


Cozy, seaside


Water view

1890s restored Waterfront

– Paid advertisement –

28 ] 2011 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Pool/Hot or Jetted Tub


Handicap Access

Mtg Facilities


Dormitory & private

Fort Worden State Park Dormitories • 200 Battery Way, PT 98368 • 360-344-4400 •

365 28


Group Dorms



30 29

Rate (Max.)

HI-Olympic Hostel • 272 Battery Way, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-0655 • 800-909-4776 •

Rate (Min.)

PT Hostels & Dorms

# of Units

Comp. Breakfast



PT Vacation Rentals A Bungalow on the Bluff • 303 Fillmore St, PT 98368 • 800-385-1238 •


175 195

A Garden Cottage • 112 Umatilla Ave, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-643-3210 •


110 130

Bartlett House Cottage • 314 Polk Street, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-9451


179 199

Big Red Barn • 309 V St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-301-1271 •


150 185

Dell’s Guesthouse at North Beach • 510 56th St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-3783 •




Fern House • 1041 Taylor St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-0928




Hammond House Cottage • 834 Pierce St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-6269 •




Holcomb Hideaway • 1823 Holcomb St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-531-0611 •


150 225


Hubers Inn • 1421 Landes St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-3904 •


135 195

Inn at Waterfront Place • 632A Waterfront Place, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-6957 •


120 155

Katie’s Kottage • 475 W St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-8261 •



Lookout, The • 419 Lawrence St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-774-1904


150 225

Morgan Hill Guest House • 606 Roosevelt St, PT 98368 • 360-385-2536 • 800-490-9070 •



Pilot’s Seaside Cottage • 327 Jackson St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-0811 •


Rainshadow Tourist Home • 609 58th St, Port Townsend, 98368 • 360-531-0022 • Sea Loft • 306 Lincoln St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-1626 •

• •

Water views Luxury cottage


• •

View, private entrance


Romantic getaway

Close to trails & beach


Affordable, convenient


Water view


Weekly rates

Waterfront apartment Garden setting

120 160





110 135

Quiet Uptown

Takaki House • 1617 Washington St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-9784 •



Gallery, private getaway

Vestry at the Olde Church, The • 1510 Blaine St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-9700


110 110



Historic 1890s/Closed Winter

RV/Camping for Port Townsend

Rate (Min.)

Rate (Max.)



Dump Station




Handicap Access


Private, view, fireplace •

# of Units


Fort Worden State Park • Port Townsend 98368 • 360-344-4400 •

85 15



Beach or forest

Jefferson County Fair Grounds • 4907 Landes St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-1013 •

80 15


Quiet, country

Old Fort Townsend • 1370 Old Fort Townsend Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-344-4400 •

40 17




Point Hudson Marina & RV Park • 103 Hudson St, Port Townsend 98368 • 800-228-2803 •

48 20




Uptown views Nautical setting North Beach, Ft Worden


R Beach, close to town

AUGUST 2011 BR5/5/09 Lodging list produced with funding from Port Townsend and Jefferson County lodging tax funds. NOTE: Information subject to change without notice. It is advisable to contact lodging in advance. R=Restrictions

– Paid advertisement – The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2011 Getaway ^ 29

# of Units Rate (Min.) Rate (Max.) Comp. Breakfast Internet Meeting Facilities Children Pets Handicap Access Pool/Hot or Jetted Tub



Hadlock Motel • 181 Chimacum Rd, Port Hadlock 98339 • 360-385-3111 • 888-360-3111 •

18 70 100

• fee

Heart of Port Hadlock

Mount Walker Inn • PO Box 144, 61 Maple Grove Rd, Quilcene 98376 • 360-765-3410 •

12 65 105

• fee

Rustic comfort

The Resort at Port Ludlow • 1 Heron Rd, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-437-7000 • 877-805-0868 •

45 99 399

Elk Meadows • 3485 Dosewallips Rd, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4886 •



Harbor House • 309257 Hwy 101, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4064 • 360-951-5366 •

2 100 150 •

Honey Moon Cabin on Marrowstone Island • Nordland 98358 • 509-662-0849 •

Hotels & Motels


Water view/golf/marina

Bed & Breakfasts 98 125 •

Mountain view – river R


1 135 195 •


Secluded cabin

Houseboats4Two • 308913 Hwy 101, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-3440 • 800-966-5942 •

4 195 240


Romantic getaway

Pleasant Harbor Marina House B&B • 308913 Hwy 101, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4611 • 800-547-3479 •

3 100 100 •

Solstice Farm B&B • PO Box 135, Chimacum 98325 • 360-732-0174 •

2 105 105 •

Working farm

Adelma Beach Cabin • 262 Adelma Beach Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-774-0213 •

2 150 189


Located on beach

Alegria Guest House • 4934 SR 20, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-3695 •

1 140 150

An Inn Between • 5825 Old Gardiner Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-8125 •

1 119 179


An Inn Between Two • 5821 Old Gardiner Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-8125 •

1 119 189


Arcadia West Guest Nest • 389A Arcadia West, Port Townsend 98368 • 381-5099 •

1 150 175

A Wolves’ Den • 269 N Jacob Miller Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-316-9174 •

1 150 200

Bay Cottage • 4346 S Discovery Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-2035 •


85 150

Beautiful beach access

Beach Cottages on Marrowstone • 10 Beach Dr, Nordland 98358 • 360-385-3077 •


90 250

Waterfront & views

Beach Getaway on Oak Bay • 101 Oak Rd, Port Hadlock 98339 • 360-437-2532 •

3 150 300

Beaver’s Pond Retreat • 3851 Larson Lake Rd, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-732-7148 •

3 195 285

Big Cedars Lodge • 12224 Airport Cutoff Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-8752 •

1 125 125

Bluff House at Marrowstone Isle • 2500 E Marrowstone, Nordland 98358 • 209-484-0099 •

1 120 160

Brinnon Gardens Inn • 105 Schoolhouse Rd., Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4886 •

1 375 395

Cabins at Treefrog Woods • 1280 Cape George Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-0906 •


Cabin on the Canal • Near Pleasant Harbor Marina, Brinnon • 206-782-3868 •

1 120 120

Chevy Chase Beach Cabins • 3710 S Discovery Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-1270 •

7 110 300

Crow’s Nest Cabin • 5073 Flagler Rd, Nordland 98358 • 360-385-4920 •

1 115 150

Dabob Bay Cottage • 840 Piper Rd, Quilcene 98376 • 360-765-3947 •

1 110 135

Eaglemount Rockery Cottages & Museum • 1822 SR 20, PT 98368 • 360-379-8922 •


Fairmount Beach House • 1071 Fairmount Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-2480

1 135 150

P/H Marina view, quiet

Vacation Rentals

• •

Water & mountan view •

3BR, 2BA waterfront home


Luxury cabin retreat


Waterfront home •

Fire pits, fishing Lodge & 15 acres

• •


Resort living

95 125

79 79

Furnished cedar home


3bd., 5ac. gardens/events fac.


Private cabins Access to Hood Canal Beach


Private beach Private beach

• •

Beach access


Free outdoor museum

Private beach

– Paid Advertisement – 30 ] 2011 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

# of Units Rate (Min.) Rate (Max.) Comp. Breakfast Internet Meeting Facilities Children Pets Handicap Access Pool/Hot or Jetted Tub



Fort Flagler State Park Retreat Center • 10541 Flagler Rd, Nordland 98358 • 360-385-3701 •


Wonderful views

House on Tala Shore • Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-821-9012 •

2 150 225

Julianna’s Cottage • 1 Beaver Pond Trail, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-732-7148 •

1 225 240

Port Ludlow Vacation Rentals • Admiralty I Condominiums, Port Ludlow 98365 • 206-992-6036 •

2 250 350

Marina House • 308913 US Hwy 101, Pleasant Harbor Marina, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4611•

1 199 299

Scott’s Cabin • 3871 Larson Lake Rd, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-732-7148 •

1 225 240

Skunk Island Cottages • 33 North Water St, Port Hadlock 98339 • 360-385-3450 •


• fee


10 109 325

Windermere Vacation Rentals • PO Box 770, Brinnon 98320 • 888-796-3450 •

81 175


Woods & water •

80 120

Beaver’s Pond Retreat • 3851 Larson Lake Rd, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-732-7148 •

3 50 50 •

Cove RV Park • 303075 Highway 101, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4723 •

33 15 30 •

Dosewallips State Park • Highway 101, 4 miles N of Brinnon • 888-226-7688 •

140 21 33 •

6,500’ house – water view

Private hideaway Quaint, waterfront


Hood Canal waterfront


Nestled in woods • •

Elk Meadows • 3485 Dosewallips Rd, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4886 •

1 40 100

Falls View Campground • Highway 101, 3.5 miles S of Quilcene • 360-765-2200 • www.fs.fed/us/r6/olympic

30 14 14

Fort Flagler State Park • 10541 Flagler Rd, Nordland 98358 • 360-385-1259 •

116 21 33 •

Halfway RV Park • Highway 101 and Brinnon Ln, Brinnon • 360-796-4715

22 25 25 •

Port Ludlow RV Park • 44 Breaker Ln, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-437-9377 •

37 20 35 •

Rainbow Campground • Highway 101, 5 miles south of Quilcene • 360-765-2200 • www.fs.fed/us/r6/olympic

9 50 50

Seal Rock Campground • 1 mile N of Brinnon • 360-765-2200 • www.fs.fed/us/r6/olympic

41 18 18

Smitty’s RV Park • 9142 Flagler Rd, Nordland 98358 • 360-385-2165 •

40 27 27 •

Lower Oak Bay • 301 Portage Way, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-385-9160 •

22 15 18 •

Upper Oak Bay • 290 Cleveland St, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-385-9129 •

24 18 20 •

Monthly rentals

Beach & trails On the river


View of falls


Mar 1–Oct 31

Groups welcome

In the woods

Romantic getaway Beachfront

# of Units Rate (Min.) Rate (Max.) Hookups Pull Through Dump Station Toilets Laundry Showers Handicap Access Pets

Vacation Rentals cont.

Group campground

• •

Quiet country setting

Beautiful, on Oak Bay

Nestled on Oak Bay

Lodging list produced with funding from Port Townsend and Jefferson County lodging tax funds.

NOTE: Information subject to change without notice. It is advisable to contact lodging in advance. R = Restrictions

– Paid Advertisement – The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2011 Getaway ^ 31

From Port Townsend

From Port Townsend

Sequim 35 miles

Port Ludlow 16 miles

Port angeles 47 miles

Quilcene 25 miles

Hurricane Ridge 68 miles

Kingston 33 miles

Victoria, B.C. 73 miles

Brinnon 37 miles

Forks 102 miles

Seattle 50 miles

La Push 120 miles

tacoma 80 miles

Neah Bay 122 miles

Olympia 92 miles

Kalaloch Beach 129 miles

Sea-tac airport 100 miles

Hoh Rain Forest 138 miles

Vancouver, B.C. 122 miles

Lake Quinault 165 miles

Portland 222 miles

^ traveL Links Washington State Department of Transportation lists traffic, ferries and bridge conditions. Call 511, 800-419-9085; Washington State Ferries provides vehicle and passenger service. Check the schedule at wsdot. Call wSF Customer Service at 888-808-7977 (in state) or 206-464-6400, or 511, from 7 a.m. to 5:45 p.m. Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. you must speak to an operator to make a reservation, or do it online at reservations. Port of Port Townsend offers boaters moorage and fuel. 800-228-2803, Jefferson Transit offers bus and park-andride service in Port townsend. 360-385-4777, Peninsula Taxi serves Port townsend. 360-385-1872

32 ] 2011 Getaway

Puget Sound Express offers passenger-only service from Port townsend to Friday Harbor (San Juan Islands) from March through the first week of October. 360-385-5288, Black Ball Transport, Inc. connects Port angeles, wash., to Victoria, B.C. the car-andpassenger ferry MV Coho makes between one and four 90-minute crossings daily, year-round; more crossings typical in peak season. Reservations recommended. Proof of citizenship is required to enter or depart the United States by sea. Dock is at 101 e. Railroad ave., P.O. Box 1928, Port angeles, wa 98362. 360-457-4491, (tty) 711 or 800-8336388, Jefferson County International Airport is six miles south of Port townsend. 360-385-2323, Forks Chamber of Commerce (twilight tour center) 360-374-2531

Sequim-Dungeness Valley Chamber of Commerce 1192 e. washington St., Sequim, wa 98382 360-683-6197, 800-737-8462 Olympic Peninsula Visitor Information Center 338 w. First St., Suite 104 Port angeles, wa 98362 360-452-8552, 800-942-4042 Port Angeles Regional Chamber of Commerce & Visitor Center 121 Railroad ave. Port angeles, wa 98362 360-452-2363 The Leader Source for washington State Ferries, Hood Canal Bridge, local traffic news and emergency information. 360-385-2900

the Port townsend & Jefferson County Leader


Blue-Tarp Camping: Sometimes Rain Wins pertly folded under the edges of the tent floor. This way, rain drains away and soaks into Pit pat pit-pit pat. the ground rather than rolling under the tent. A soft, cedar-scented Rather adeptly, I left the windows and vents rain pecks arrhythmiof the tent open to get air circulating, which cally on the blue tarp strung prevents moisture from collecting inside. above the tent, nestled in the Most critical to my mission, I strung a Olympic National Forest outside of Brinnon. large blue tarp above the tent. Stretched tight Cozy in my sleeping bag, I say goodnight to and lashed around three trees, it extends a my little black mutt. Her oversized ears flop few feet from the front of the tent. From this over and she fights against sleep, even after professional set-up, no one could guess it was hiking all day along the Duckabush River. my first solo camp. Surrendering, she gives a sigh and snuggles On the trail the next day, the rain lessened with me. to a misty sprinkle, coating the foliage with In the Pacific Northwest, a persistent, a sheen. Victorious in my proper layering, I drizzling rain enables lush plant life but am both warm and dry. I have on a base layer can hamper outdoor activities. With some of a wool undershirt, polypropylene leggings tried-and-true techniques and the proper gear, and wool socks. Next are sturdy boots, a rain however, anyone can camp happily. pant shell and my pride and joy: a lime-green It is my first trip out in the rain, but after raincoat with a Gore-Tex membrane that reso much research, planning and preparation, I pels water but allows moisture from my body am practically an expert. to escape. A less-educated camper might have My brand new tent, which the salesman made the mistake of wearing cotton, which particularly recommended for wet weather, absorbs moisture and cools the body – but rests atop a small slope. It’s staked down tight- not I. ly, and beneath it, I wisely laid a blue tarp as Onward we march through the lush green a groundsheet. The edges of the tarp are exforest. My awesome rain jacket and pants swish together; the panting dog’s tags clink; the rain comes harder. By the time we make it back to camp hours later, I am aghast. I am as soggy as the By Renae Reed

Camping in the rain necessities At least two large poly tarps Zip-top plastic bags for electronics, extra set of clothes, etc. Rain jacket (Gore-Tex) Rain pants


Thermals and extra socks (wool or synthetic fiber) The author’s dog enjoys hikes in the Olympic National Forest – rain or shine. The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Entertainment (books, games) A try-try-again attitude


Camping in the rain can be a little easier with the proper set-up. Photos by Renae Reed

dog. How could this have happened? That raincoat was $200! Downtrodden, I towel off the dog and then mope around the camp – until I realize I still have some tricks up my sleeve. I hang my wet clothes on a line under the tarp, much better than bringing them into the tent and adding to the gathering condensation. I stuff my hiking boots with newspaper, which will act as a sponge and draw out some moisture. I move everything into the middle of the tent so the condensation from the walls stays on the walls. The rain persists. The sun hasn’t completely risen when I wake up, stiff, sore and wet. Water has pooled inside and soaked my sleeping bag. An entire side of the tent is sagging in, dripping. A feeling of dread causes me to hesitate before unzipping the tent. Oh, disaster! The tarp collapsed in the night, heavy with rain that gathered in what was once a small sag. Gallons of water funneled onto the side of the tent, where a little river continues to flow. Wholly disheartened, I see my clothesline dragged onto the ground. As rain continues to spill, my dog, brown eyes glistening in the gaining light, looks at the clothes on the ground and then at me. “Yes, Luna,” I tell her, “It’s time to go home. The rain wins this time.” I pack the soggy camp into the back of my beater Mazda pickup and let the windshield wipers fly on the drive home. Clearly, more research must be done. 2011 Getaway ^ 33

tions. The water never warms up – all surfers wear head-to-toe wetsuits – but the surf generated by distant Pacific storms sometimes brings in perfect swells in endless order in places like LaPush’s First Beach just at the edge of this Quileute Indian community and tribal center. For “Twilight” fans, the Quileutes are best known as the tribe of Native Americans that turn themselves into massive wolves like Jacob in order to keep the local vampires at bay. La Push was the inspiration for a couple of scenes from the popular movie series, including the cliffs where the wolf pack went diving and some beach By Scott Wilson and forest scenes. For both locals and visitors alike, Accommodations the wild Pacific Coast of the Olympic in La Push are Peninsula – what locals call the “West centered on End” – is an astounding terrain of poundthe Quileute ing surf, vast forests, lush rain-forest Oceanside Resort, valleys of 500-year-old fir, hemlock and with lodges, cabins spruce, endless trails through endless and RV sites, mountains, and a refuge for wildlife owned and operand teeming flora. That this is all about ated by the tribe. two hours’ drive from urbane little Port Forks, the cenTownsend is just short of remarkable. ter of the Twilight This is a landscape which American action, is just a few writer William Richards deemed a “living miles away. It’s a catalog of natural superlatives.” full-service town At the heart of this wilderness is the The temperate rainforests of Olympic National Park are the wettest places and is the populavast Olympic National Park, started in tion center of the in the continental United States. Photos by Scott Wilson 1909 and enhanced in 1938, which is also West End. You’ll internationally recognized as a Biosphere wild Pacific Coast including 600 islands, find “Twilight” Reserve and World Heritage Site. The from Shi Shi Beach to the north all the references everywhere there, with other ONP takes in 1 million acres of the vast way to Kalaloch to the south. links into Port Angeles. Olympic Mountains, laced with trails and Some of these Pacific beaches have The wild coast is almost endless in campsites, and almost the entirety of the generated a reputation as surfing destina- either direction. There are trails and campgrounds, but hikers are cautioned to pay particular attention to the tides, as beachside trails get submerged at high tide. Neah Bay at the northwest tip of the Peninsula is a worthy stop, with a good beach of its own and the superb Makah Cultural Center and Museum. To the south of Forks, U.S. Highway101 inevita-

^ west of the world


Like No Place on Earth: The Wild Pacific Coast

] Hikers will find many miles of coastal hiking available through the Olympic National Park’s coastal zone on the wild Pacific Coast of the Olympic Peninsula. Campsites dot the trail; some headlands are not passable at high or low tides. This headland is part of Third Beach just south of La Push. 34 ] 2011 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Neah Bay. • Salmon and other fishing charters are available at Sekiu, Neah Bay and La Push, all fishing meccas for Northwesterners. • Lake Ozette, between Neah Bay and La Push, offers hikes to wilderness beaches, views of the third largest lake in Washington, and the story of a village lost to a mudslide. • Rialto Beach near La Push is famous for its sea stacks, pounded by the surf. On the trail south from Third Beach there are dozens upon dozens of the same. • River fishing in the Hoh, Sol Duc and Queets rivers is known to steelheaders the world over. Visitor information: Olympic National Park 600 East Park Ave. Port Angeles, WA 98362 360-5654-3130 Wilderness Information Center 3002 Mount Angeles Road Port Angeles, WA 98362 360-565-3100

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Surf’s up at La Push, but wetsuits are an absolute necessity in the cold water.

bly brings the traveler to Kalaloch Lodge and campground, also with a number of nearby wild beaches accessible via short day hikes. This is the southern end of the Olympic National Park beach hikes. The West End boasts no fewer than three temperate rain forests, each of them climbing far into the Olympic flanks along a meandering river valley. They are the Hoh, the Queets and the Quinault, and any one of them takes you into a bountiful wilderness fueled by the highest volume of rainfall in the continental U.S. It’s possible to lose an RV behind walls of moss hanging from old-growth trees. The rainfall? 14 feet per year. Some other highlights of the wild West End: • Shi Shi Beach leads to the famous Point of Arches, a moderate beach hike south from Hobuck Road just south of The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center 31 miles south of Forks 360-374-6925 Clallam Bay/Sekiu Chamber of Commerce 16795 State Route 112 Clallam Bay, WA 98326, Neah Bay Chamber of Commerce 360-645-2711

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226 Adams Street, Port Townsend 360-385-2900 • 2011 Getaway ^ 35

^ Birds, whales, Big Game

Orcas rising through the waters of Washington’s inland sea are a frequent sight. This image is part of the Whales in our Midst exhibit. The Port Townsend Marine Science Center has a focus on whales and is planning a new facility in 2013 to house an orca skeleton. Photo courtesy of the Center for Whale Research


Our Wild Friends

homesteads. There are no recent cases of humans here being attacked by cougars, but domestic livestock (including cows, goats and sheep) have been stalked and killed. In 2010, Washington Department Get away from the city and get closer to of Fish and Wildlife personnel dispatched wildlife. Just not too close. Here on the Olympic Peninsula, you may seven livestock-killing cougars in Jefferson encounter plenty of wild creatures, from on County alone. The Roosevelt elk (males sometimes the shoreline to the snowcapped ridges. weigh 1,000 pounds) here are part of the When it comes to hunting, fishing, shrimping, crabbing and clam digging, don’t nation’s largest unmanaged herd. The Dungeness/Dosewallips herd ranges from forget to get your appropriate Washington Brinnon along Hood Canal to the meadows Department of Fish and Wildlife licenses. around Sequim. Elk tend to stay in the The first four-legged wild creatures you lowlands in the winter and move to the high will probably encounter are black-tailed country in summer. deer. Yes, sometimes their fur seems Black bears on the Olympic Peninsula shaggy and in poor condition. are strictly black – no brown varieties, as Although you probably won’t see seen in other ranges. They usually stick to cougars and bobcats, be advised they are the forests, venturing into the meadows near around, including in rural subdivisions and the timberline in summer. About 300 mountain goats live in Olympic National Park. Be wary: A hiker died in 2010 after being attacked and gored by an aggressive ram near Hurricane Ridge, the only known fatal attack in the park’s history. Those mangy-looking dogs you may see are actually coyotes. It is not uncommon to see coyotes within Port Townsend or in other backyards. They won’t bother you,


An elk herd regularly browses and lounges in Dosewallips State Park near Brinnon. Photo by Lisa Jensen 36 ] 2011 Getaway

but your small dog could be at risk if left to roam alone. A word to the wise – do not feed the raccoons. They are not your friends, and once they get a taste of human food (or cat food) they will keep coming back to demand more. Raccoon feeding troughs also attract coyotes and even cougars. Bird watching is a year-round attraction here, thanks to our location on the migratory flyway. (Please, do not disturb beach birds, as they may be nesting.) The Port Townsend Marine Science Center offers cruises to Protection Island, a federal bird sanctuary that 85 bird species call home, along with sea lions and elephant seals. Along the beach, please stay away from seal pups. The mama seals often leave their pups (spotted skin) alone for up to 24 hours. Do not worry, and do not touch or move the pups. Orca whales are the largest mammals around. Puget Sound Express operates a passenger ferry out of Point Hudson with more than 30 years of whale watching expertise. Washington State Department of Fish & Wildlife Licensing information

] Bald eagles, no longer considered an endangered species, are common in Port Townsend and around the Olympic Peninsula. This eagle has just been fishing. Photo by Steve Mullensky The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


Find us online! Daily news, connections for Port Townsend and Jefferson County.

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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2011 Getaway ^ 37

^ Tri-Area, Marrowstone

Almost any getaway to Jefferson County brings you through the crossroads known as the Tri-Area, made up of Port Hadlock, Irondale and Chimacum, with access to Marrowstone Island. Business, farming and manufacturing mix well with homes. You can gather shellfish, picnic and camp, go to U-pick farms and visit the corner farmers market. Chimacum is named for the Chimakum Tribe. The Chimacum Valley (and nearby Beaver Valley and Center Valley) were once home to many dairy farms. Farming is making a comeback in the form of organic and other growing operations. H.J. Carroll County Park is located along Highway 19 near Chimacum School. The day-use facility has a BMX bike track, horseshoe pits, a hard-surface basketball court, a softball diamond, a playfield, restrooms, a walking path, picnic shelters and a trail to Chimacum Creek. Anderson Lake State Park and Gibbs Lake County Park are two Chimacum-area parks popular with mountain bike riders. At Anderson Lake, five of the six trail systems are open to bikes. Partnering with Washington State Parks and others, 38 ] 2011 Getaway

Lloyd Crouse is “the man” of Hadlock Days in July, when lawnmowers from throughout the United States come to race. The race is sanctioned by a national association. Photo by Nicholas Johnson


Bikes, Beaches, Mowers

Lost in the Woods Mountain Bike Races (lostinthewoodsmtbrace. sets up races open to riders of all skill levels: Race dates for 2011 include Aug. 21 at Anderson Lake. In addition, Gibbs Lake is usually a great freshwater swimming hole. Irondale was the site of an ore- and steel-processing mill from the 1880s to 1912. Few signs of the historic buildings remain, but you can check out the waterfront at Irondale Beach Park – bring your kayak to navigate Chimacum Creek. Port Hadlock was named after Samuel Hadlock, who established the lumber mill town in 1867. Today, Lower Hadlock is the waterfront site of the growing Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding campus. Guided tours are offered Monday and Friday at 10:30 a.m., or call 360-3854948 to schedule a tour. Hadlock Days is the traditional community celebration. This is the fifth year that Hadlock Days has hosted lawnmower races; about 100 mowers participate each year. (Call Lloyd Crouse at 206-817-8045 for more information.)

Highway 116 takes you across Portage Canal Bridge to Indian Island and Marrowstone Island. Naval Magazine Indian Island is home to the U.S. Navy’s most strategic ordnance storage facility on the West Coast – supply ships, warships and submarines come and go from the area. Marrowstone Island’s offerings include Mystery Bay, Nordland and historic Fort Flagler State Park, a great location for camping, picnics, boating, biking and beach walks. Yes, a sweep of the Tri-Area makes your getaway complete. Trail map of Anderson Lake State Park Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding 42 N. Water St., Port Hadlock, WA 98339 360-385-4948 Fort Flagler State Park Reservations: 888-228-7688; select “List of parks by name.” The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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2011 Getaway ^ 39

^ Port Ludlow welcomes you

] Port Ludlow Golf Club has a championshipquality course. Photos by Patrick J. Sullivan

Village by a Bay

naval officer Augustus C. Ludlow. The first lumber mill was built in 1852 and was acquired 27 years later by Andrew Jackson Pope and William C. Talbot. Ludlow was a mill town until 1935. Wooden sailing ships also were built here. The Hood Canal Floating Bridge opened in 1961, and that quick highway access allowed for community growth. Port Ludlow became a master planned resort community in 1968 and has appeared on many “best places to retire” lists. It is also a pleasant place to live while commuting to work on “the other side” and a destination that’s well worth a visit.

Consider Port Ludlow as a destination on your Olympic Peninsula getaway. With more than 200 days of sunshine a year, there are many reasons to get outside. For those looking for a moderate hike, a great option is the Timberton Trail Loop, located off Paradise Bay Road on Timberton Drive. The five-mile loop trail offers views of the Cascade Mountains from Mount Baker to Mount Rainier. Numbered rocks along the trail help orient hikers. Another interesting walk is the short Ludlow Falls Interpretive Trail; parking is available at Port Ludlow Village Center. North Bay offers the Rainier Loop Trail. The Port Ludlow Fly Fishing Club has improved Teal Lake Park, located in the woods south of town. The park’s fishing dock and picnic area are wheelchair-accessible. Birding is something people enjoy on purpose and by happenstance; look for the red-necked grebe, Pacific loon, surf scooter and our majestic osprey, bald eagles and great blue herons. The Resort at Port Ludlow is a hubbub of activity. The 37-unit Inn at Port Ludlow includes more than 3,000 square feet of meeting space for conferences, weddings and other events. It also features The Fireside Restaurant. Check with the 300-slip Port Ludlow Marina office for moorage space (vessels up to 200 feet in length), and watercraft, kayak and bicycle rentals. Boat charters also are available. The championship-quality Port

Ludlow Golf Course draws golfers for a pleasant day (or overnight) trip, and a challenging course with awesome views. It is open to the public. The town’s business center is known as Port Ludlow Village, the crossroads of the North Bay and South Bay residential communities. Locals and visitors alike love the Friday farmers market, which is open from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. seasonally at Port Ludlow Village. Port Ludlow was founded in 1842 by explorer Charles Wilkes and named for

Olympic Peninsula Gateway Visitor Center 93 Beaver Valley Road, Port Ludlow, 98365 360-437-0120 olympic-peninsula-gatewayvisitor-center The Resort at Port Ludlow 877-805-0868

^ Waterfront is the common view from homes, condos, the resort hotel and the golf course in Port Ludlow. 40 ] 2011 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Teresa Goldsmith (360) 301-0099

Terry McHugh (360) 301-1763

Trevor Huntingford (360) 621-9209

Steven Kraght (360) 301-6484

Susan Scott (360) 774-2449

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2011 Getaway ^ 41

^ Tour North Hood Canal

Pearl of a Place A North Olympic Peninsula visit is not complete without a tour of North Hood Canal, taking in places such as Quilcene, Brinnon, Dosewallips State Park and Pleasant Harbor. Quilcene is the pearl of the Olympic Peninsula. Hood Canal oysters, clams, geoducks and other shellfish are famous worldwide; look for them on the Olympic Peninsula Culinary Loop. Shrimp season is especially busy at Herb Beck Marina, next to a public swimming beach. The Quilcene Historical Society Museum has a must-see collection from the pioneer days in the late 1800s when lumber was king. An antler show, parade, carnival and car burn-out demonstration are among the events at the Quilcene Community Fair Sept. 17-18.

] This natural pearl came from a Dabob Bay oyster, Hood Canal’s finest. Photo by Barney Burke

rhododendron hybrids and species, plus outdoor light displays during holiday seasons (with a million lights set up for Christmas). Fresh shrimp sell fast at the Brinnon ShrimpFest on Memorial Day weekend. Check out the food, entertainment and belt sander races. Hood Canal is the only natural For a stunning panoramic view, gaze fjord on America’s West Coast south down on Puget Sound from 2,730-foot of Alaska, and boaters must take tidal Mount Walker. The gravel road is narrow change into account. Pleasant Harbor and not recommended for trailers, but is generally passable for cars – or take the two- Marina, just south of Brinnon, has a mile hike. The Quilcene river system feeds 285-slip deep-water facility offering transalmon – visit the National Fish Hatchery sient and permanent moorage. Statesman Resorts plans a destination resort and along Highway 101 – and Port Townsend’s golf course at Black Point and Pleasant public water supply. The hatchery’s 100th Harbor. There is a nice public boat birthday celebration is Aug. 20. launch at Triton Cove, near the Jefferson Elwell P. Brinnon built the first homeCounty line. stead along the Duckabush River about Be sure to access Olympic National six miles south of present-day Brinnon, at a time when ferries served the canal. Rivers Forest trails and scenic (gravel road) drives. Get more information at the Hood Canal pouring from the Olympic Mountains may District Ranger Station in Quilcene (360offer excellent fishing, but they’re too rug765-2200), which also hosts a visitor center ged for water sports. in cooperation with the North Hood Canal A herd of Roosevelt elk is part of the Chamber of Commerce. landscape in Brinnon. Plan ahead for your So whether you make the effort to bike camping trip to grassy Dosewallips State the highway, hike to the top of 6,280-foot Park, with river and saltwater access. Mount Townsend, or explore the bottom Year around, the Whitney Gardens & Nursery is Brinnon’s 7-acre delight of color. of Hood Canal with your shrimp pot or in your dive gear, have fun! See the Pacific Northwest’s best array of Dosewallips State Park reservations Info: 360-796-4415 DosewallipsStatePark Quilcene Visitor Center North Hood Canal Chamber of Commerce Olympic Peninsula Culinary Loop html

] Even a local pooch paddled out to the new swim float installed at Quilcene’s Herb Beck Marina during a community celebration in June. The public beach at Quilcene boasts one of the warmest saltwater swimming holes in the area. Photo by James Robinson 42 ] 2011 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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] The 15th Sequim Lavender Festival was July 15-17, 2011, and included the new Sequim Lavender Faire. Photo by Nicholas Johnson

Explore Clallam County

44 ] 2011 Getaway


has become the center of all things lavender. There are six year-round lavender farms and a few more open for the Sequim Lavender Festival and the new Sequim Lavender Faire, plus Lavender in the Park – the peninsula’s single largest tourist traffic event. Yes, John Wayne Marina is named after the late movie star (and avid fisherman) John Wayne and built on land his family donated in 1975. It’s one point of access to some of the best salmon and halibut fishing you can find. People who have lived in Sequim all their lives say they entertain guests ^ Port, Prairie, Peak from afar or even near by taking them to the Dungeness River Audubon Center at Railroad Bridge Park, the Olympic Game Farm (feed the critters from out your car window), and the five-mile lighthouse beach walk at Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge. Walk or bicycle on the Olympic Discovery Trail (connecting Port Angeles, Sequim and Blyn). Along Highway 101, Port Angeles is a gateway city – to the mountains Hurricane Ridge, 17 miles from Port Angeles, and Olympic National Park, to the provides Olympic National Park trail access. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan Pacific Coast and to Canada via Black Ball Ferry Line. President Lincoln apfrom pioneer days. proved Port Angeles as a town site in The Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe 1862. It’s a waterfront city, and oceancampus includes the Northwest Native going commercial cargo vessels stop Any of our North Olympic Expressions Art Gallery, along with a Peninsula cities, towns and communihere to pick up a pilot before proceedlonghouse and Seven Cedars Casino – ing to Seattle, Tacoma, etc. ties could be a day-trip option or an plus Cedars at Dungeness golf course overnight destination. This is your There is a great mix of businesses in Sequim. chance to explore. Consult the map on and shops. Port Angeles has a his(Your other primary peninsula page 32 for highway mileage. tory as a lumber and paper mill town, casino option: The Lower Elwha U.S. Highway 101 connects and has the art, music and higher S’Klallam Tribe operates the Elwha Jefferson County with Clallam education found in more urban cities. County, and the first community along River Casino 15 miles west of Port Fairchild International Airport has Angeles.) the way is Blyn at the head of Sequim commuter connections to Seattle and The Dungeness Valley city of Bay. In 1874, tribal members purchased other points. Sequim (pronounced “Skwim”) basks land here and named it Jamestown People come from around the world in the rain shadow of the 7,000-foot Beach, rather than relocate to a reserto experience Olympic National Park, Olympic Mountains. The pleasant year- 1,400 square miles of exquisite mounvation on non-traditional land. Chief round weather is great for golf, fishing tains, rain forests, river valleys and Chetzemoka, for whom a Washington state ferry serving Port Townsend was and other outdoor activities. Watch wilderness coast. President Theodore for the herd of Roosevelt elk. Sequim launched in 2010, was a tribal leader See word on page 46 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2011 Getaway ^ 45

Clallam Continued from page 46

Olympic National Park Visitor Center 360-565-3131 Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe

46 ] 2011 Getaway

^ at the border

Canada is Nearby The garden city of Victoria, B.C., Canada, is a year-round tourism destination for leisure travel, outdoor adventure or romantic getaways – and it is only 90 minutes from the Port Angeles waterfront. In 2011, Black Ball Ferry Line’s classic MV Coho is celebrating its 51st year of carrying vehicles and walk-on passengers on the 90-minute crossing between Washington state and Vancouver Island, Canada. The reliable ship handles the Strait of Juan de Fuca in any kind of weather, and has a duty-free shop aboard. Reservations and other information: 360-457-4491 and The Coho is the only scheduled ferry between Port Angeles and Victoria. Canadian law requires that all persons entering Canada carry both proof of citizenship and proof

The MV Coho has only missed one scheduled Port Angeles-Victoria crossing in 51 years due to weather. Here she is gliding into Victoria’s Inner Harbour. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan


Roosevelt designated this area the Olympic National Monument in 1909; it became a national park in 1938. Day hikes of varying length and difficulty are found throughout the park. Some are universally accessible, while others are more challenging. The park requires an entrance fee and various rules apply. Mount Olympus, about 20 miles southwest of Forks, receives more than 200 inches of precipitation each year and most of that falls as snow. At 7,980 feet, Mount Olympus is the park’s highest peak and has the third-largest glacial system in the contiguous U.S. A 17-mile climb from sea level to ski level, Hurricane Ridge offers the peninsula’s only public winter playground. Ridge-top trails descend to subalpine lakes and valleys. It is a winding road, but on a clear day, the view is fantastic. Olympic National Park is so much more than the ridge: pick a picnic place, day hike, beach walk, fishing adventure or overnight camping trip. The Hoh Rain Forest is about a two-hour drive from Port Angeles. Lake Crescent is just 20 miles west of Port Angeles. Marymere Falls, East Beach and Devil’s Punchbowl are all nearby, and then it is on to the West End. Definitely, you will need more than a day to explore Clallam County.

of identity. A valid U.S. passport, passport card, enhanced driver’s license or NEXUS card satisfies these requirements for U.S. citizens. Children under 18 must present proof of citizenship and identity. If you plan to travel to Canada with a minor who is not your own child or for whom you do not have full legal custody, the Canadian Border Services Agency may require you to present a notarized affidavit of consent from the minor’s parents. Border travelers be advised, the Canadian government’s immigration laws mean non-Canadians with criminal convictions, even a DUI charge that was dropped or deferred, are denied entry. Black Ball Ferry Line 360-457-4491

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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For reservations and information call 1-800-235-7344 Forks area: (360) 374-9400 P.O. Box 1997 • 352 Forks Ave. Forks, Washington 98331

2011 Getaway ^ 47

exhaust, etc. on each side of a ferry or one in the middle, this design has one tower and so it weighs down one side. WSF crew and officials have said the list does not interfere with safety, vessel speed or docking ability. The intention is that vehicle weight rights the list for transit. May into October. These are the fleet’s first ferries to dediGet a reservation to guarantee your By Patrick J. Sullivan cate space for bicyclists. A mezzanine holds vehicle slot onboard. Call 1-888-808-7977 about 70 bikes. Ferries and a floating bridge make travel (in state) or 206-464-6400, or 511, from 7 Walk-on passengers do not need on and off the Olympic Peninsula unique. a.m. to 5:45 p.m. Monday-Friday and 7 a.m. reservations. Be aware, this ferry route Here is what you need to know about both: to 4:45 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. You must has the worst wind and tidal conditions in Washington State Ferries operates speak to an operator to make a reservation. Washington state, plus the smallest harbor routes throughout Puget Sound. The Port On your computer, do it yourself at busi(Keystone). Cancellations and delays do Townsend-Coupeville route is a marine A happen. highway extension of State Route 20. It percentage of slots are reserved, with room The State Route 104 Hood Canal connects the North Olympic Peninsula for standby traffic on each boat. Floating Bridge connects Jefferson County with Whidbey Island – the shortest path to New in July 2011: Arrive 45 minutes and the North Olympic Peninsula with Vancouver, Canada. before your reserved sailing time or risk Kitsap County and the Seattle-Tacoma area. Washington State Ferries (WSF) took losing your slot. Later this year or early It is crossed by a daily average of about over this ferry route in 1974. From 1983 to 2012, when the state has a new reservation 20,000 vehicles. 2007, Port Townsend was served by Steel system technology ready, a reservation fee It opened in 1961 and, at 1.2 miles, Electric class ferries (dating to 1928), which deposit system is likely. remains the world’s longest floating bridge the state pulled from service late in 2007. During heavy travel times, vehicles spanning saltwater. A combination of passenger-only ferries may back up from the Port Townsend and The bridge closes to vehicles to allow and a 50-car ferry served the route until Coupeville terminals onto the adjacent for passage of marine traffic, i.e., U.S. the state’s first new ferry in 10 years, the highway. A WSF employee may walk the Navy submarines under escort going to the Chetzemoka, began service in November line to account for people with reservations. Bangor base on Hood Canal, and sailboats 2010. These new ferries have an intentional taller than about 50 feet. (The truss on the The second of three sister ships, MV list, as much as 2.5 to 3 degrees. The list Kitsap County side of the bridge has the Salish, began service July 1, 2011. Two is all about weight distribution. Instead of best clearance for vessels.) boats are expected to serve the route from an interior “tower” for stairwells, elevator, It is not a drawbridge. Hydraulic systems pull and lift two sections to create an opening. Marine traffic openings are not planned or announced in advance. The bridge may be closed to vehicles for 10 to 30 minutes, and traffic backups can stretch for miles on either side. From May 27 to Sept. 30, the Washington State Department of Transportation and the U.S. Coast Guard are conducting a pilot program that closes the floating bridge to private marine vessels from 3 to 6 p.m. daily – a peak time for commuter traffic. U.S. Navy and Coast Guard vessels are exempt from the revised regulations, but it has provided more predictability than ever before.

^ Ride the ferry

Make Reservations

] A young blacktail deer walks the Adams Street waterfront as the MV Chetzemoka sails out of Port Townsend Bay. Photo by Jan Halliday 48 ] 2011 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

720 Water St., Port Townsend, WA 360-385-3838 • 888-785-3838 A well-stocked kitchen shop for the serious or occasional chef!


1928 Travel Air Biplane

Biplane Rides • One Or Two Passenger Rides . Tour Picturesque Port Townsend The Goodwin Aviation Co. Jefferson County Intl. Airport Your resource for distinctive places to stay in Port Townsend

Marilou Sullivan


Stunning water views from this private romantic getaway, just steps from downtown


A small 4- suite boutique hotel offering modern comfort and stylish design in downtown.

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


Rustic but chic private and romantic two-room barn located near Fort Worden State Park and beach.


DISCOVERY BAY The locations are all accessible to CABIN restaurants, attractions and activities yet complete with privacy. You feel comfortable and welcome without feeling fussed over. These are self-check-in operations with your host, Marilou Sullivan, only a phone call away. Two-room comfortable & cozy cottage overlooking Marilou helps guests arrange Discovery Bay. Beach accommodations for family reunions, activities only steps away! wedding parties and other special occasions. Sometimes a combination of these ADELMA BEACH accommodations fits a guest’s special needs CABIN and budget. If you are looking for a unique lodging experience in Port Townsend, you have come to the right place! View the Properties: A spacious beach cabin with two units on beautiful Discovery Bay, complete with beautiful sunsets. (360) 774-0213 2011 Getaway ^ 49

^ Have you 'herd' of this?

Oh, My, Deer One of the features that most impresses visitors to Port Townsend are the fourlegged residents who, on any given evening, are out in greater numbers than the twolegged kind. Visitors just can’t believe there are so many deer just wandering around, laissez faire. Neither can I. To add insult to injury, these deer seem to notice humans but are not particularly interested. They look your way briefly with those bulbous eyes, yawn and get back to eating the buds off the ornamental pear tree. Many visitors are just charmed out of their socks. “Isn’t that GREAT! You can almost touch them!” And some even try, and come pretty close. Others, particularly those coming from hunting-oriented areas like east-

ern Washington or Shelton, are in mute disbelief. If deer were wandering through their town, said one gent, there would be a scramble for rifles. It’s better than home delivery from the grocery store: a winter’s worth of venison! Port Townsend is not the kind of place that would smile upon the sight of people racing around with rifles chasing Bambi and her mother from yard to yard. The deer are protected by city ordinance that bans shooting or hunting. The deer don’t have to read the law to know that things are pretty fine for them. They stroll around in complete security. There is ample food, much of it grown with great care and effort by ridiculous humans, such as, for example, my beans, beets and lettuce. There are plenty of sweet apples and pears. Deer eat 8-12 pounds of foliage per day. There are many comfortable places to sleep. Almost all the dogs are dutifully on a leash or going ballistic inside safely locked up houses. Cars slow down; humans are even afraid to honk. One day I chased a blacktailed buck from my yard, waving and yelling, and a couple walking by glared at me as if I were Attila the Hun. The deer wink at one another and say, “Isn’t this GREAT!” Yet – isn’t this getting out of hand? There must be 500 deer living in Port


By Scott Wilson

Please do not call 911 when you encounter a few deer within our city limits. It is OK; they know how to use the sidewalks. Leader file photo

Townsend these days. That’s just a guess – maybe it’s more. At this point, deer families have raised their young here for generations. They have been birthed in the backyard. They are more native than nine out of 10 Port Townsend humans. Now we see dozens, make it hundreds, of deer adolescents wandering around. These were cute little fawns a few months ago, herded by their watchful mothers. Now they are on the loose, breaking curfew, learning a lot of bad habits from their weird uncles. So here we go again with the next generation of co-inhabitants. We’re not the only city with this problem, of course, but the solutions of other places may not get traction here. Some Montana towns allow bow hunting in designated areas. Some have game agents capture deer and relocate them, or euthanize them toward a donation to the local food bank. I’m not seeing any of that come through our City Council anytime soon. Instead, my idea is to monitor the visitors driving by, and whenever they say how cute the critters are, civic volunteers will push that particular critter into the back seat to be transported to its new home.

] Our Port Townsend herd has included a partial albino. Photo by Steve Mullensky 50 ] 2011 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

1 pacific traditions

1a aloft images

local & nationally recognized native artists of distinction.

loCAl maritime & landscape photography.

DAIly 10-6 • 637 WATER ST. 360-385-4770

DAIly 10-6 • in the loft of 637 WATER ST. 360-390-8172

See aloft-images-by-karen-gale on Facebook

2 ancestral spirits gallery 3 earthenworks NATIVE ART

DAIly • 701 WATER ST. • 360-385-0078

1 4


2 3


“An exquisite art gallery.” – National Geographic Traveler

Fine American Arts and Crafts for the discriminating collector.

4 port townsend gallery 5 forest gems gallery

DAIly • 715 WATER ST. 360-379-8110

DAIly 9:30-6 • 807 WAShINGToN ST. 360-379-1713

Fine art and jewelry from the hearts, hands and studios of local artists.

highly figured Northwest woods, handcrafted by local artists.


F-M 11-5:30 • 702 WATER ST. 360-385-0328

6 artisans on taylor

7 william’s gallery


DAIly 10-6 • 911 WATER ST. 360-379-1029

DAIly • 914 WATER ST. 360-385-3630


Exhibitions of contemporary art around a core of fine jewelry.

For the naturally sophisticated, a gallery of fine arts and crafts.

8 wynwoods gallery


DAIly 10-7 • 940 WATER ST. 360-385-6131 Fine contemporary handcrafted jewelry, beads & treasures.

DAIly 10-6 • 1012 WATER ST. 360-379-8881 olympic Peninsula cooperative of artists and craftspersons.


& bead studio


10 northwind arts center Th-M 12-5 • 2409 JEFFERSoN ST. 360-379-1086 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Juried and invitational shows.

gallery 9

Art Walk first Saturday evening of every month 2011 Getaway ^ 51

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2011 Getaway ^ 52

Getaway Guide - Fall/Winter 2011  
Getaway Guide - Fall/Winter 2011  

The Fall/Winter 2011 issue of Getaway Guide to Port Townsend and the Olympic Peninsula, as published by the Port Townsend & Jefferson County...